1307 by แก้วปัญญา คลังความรู้ชุมชน

‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡„π«‘∂’‰∑¬

˘Û

Ú ‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡„π«‘∂’‰∑¬

˘Ú

≈«¥≈“¬∫πº◊πºâ“ : »‘≈ª–º “π¿Ÿ¡‘ªí≠≠“‰∑¬

ÒÒ

ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡æ◊Èπ∫â“π

Òˆ

ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡æ◊Èπ∫â“π¿“§‡Àπ◊Õ

Ò˘

ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡æ◊Èπ∫â“π¿“§°≈“ß

ÒÒÛ

ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡æ◊Èπ∫â“π¿“§Õ’ “π

ÒÒˆ

ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡æ◊Èπ∫â“π¿“§„µâ

ÒÚÛ

«‘«—≤π“°“√‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡„π«‘∂’‰∑¬

ÒÚ˘

˘Ú

˘Ù

Ú ‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡ „π«‘∂’ ‰∑¬ ‡§√◊ÕË ßπÿßà Àà¡ ‡ªìπ ‘ßË ∑’™Ë «à ¬ª°ªî¥√à“ß°“¬„Àâæπâ ®“°§«“¡√âÕπ·≈–§«“¡Àπ“«‡¬Áπ ‰¡à‡®Á∫‰¢â ‰¥âªÉ«¬ ‘ßË ∑’¡Ë πÿ…¬åπ”¡“ª°ªî¥√à“ß°“¬¬ÿ§·√°‰¥â·°à „∫‰¡â ‡ª≈◊Õ°‰¡â Àπ—ß —µ«å µàÕ¡“¡πÿ…¬å√®Ÿâ °— π”‡ âπ„¬¢Õßæ◊™ª√–‡¿∑ªÕ¡“ “π¢—¥°—π‡ªìπµ“¢à“¬‚ª√àßÊ ‡æ◊ÕË ª°ªî¥ √à“ß°“¬ ·≈â«®÷ßπ”ΩÑ“¬ ‰À¡ ·≈–¢π —µ«å¡“∑”‡ªìπ‡ âπ„¬·≈â«∑Õ„Àâ‡ âπ„¬‡√’¬ß°—π ·πàπ‡ªìπº◊π‡√’¬° ºâ“ ´÷Ëß„™â‡ªìπ‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡‰¥â¥’°«à“„∫‰¡â ‡ª≈◊Õ°‰¡â À√◊ÕÀπ—ß —µ«å °√√¡«‘∏’°“√∑Õºâ“«‘«—≤π“°“√¡“‡ªìπ≈”¥—∫®“°ºâ“∑’Ë∂—°¢—¥°—πÕ¬à“ßßà“¬Ê ‡π◊ÈÕ‚ª√àß ¡“‡ªìπºâ“∑’Ë¡’‡π◊ÈÕ·πàπ ≈–‡Õ’¬¥ ¡’≈«¥≈“¬·≈– ’ —π «¬ß“¡

πÕ°®“°ºâ“®–‡ªìπ‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡ ´÷Ëß‡ªìπªí®®—¬„π°“√¥”√ß™’«‘µ∑’Ë ”§—≠·≈â« ¬—ß· ¥ß„Àâ‡ÀÁπ ∂÷ß‡Õ°≈—°…≥åª√–®”™“µ‘·≈–¿Ÿ¡‘ªí≠≠“°“√ √â“ß √√§å¢ÕßºŸâ∑Õ·≈–ºŸâ „™â¥â«¬ °“√∑Õºâ“„πª√–‡∑»‰∑¬ —ππ‘…∞“π«à“¡’¡“µ—ßÈ ·µà ¡—¬°àÕπª√–«—µ»‘ “ µ√å¡πÿ…¬åÕ“®‰¥â§«“¡§‘¥ ®“°°“√∑”«— ¥ÿ„Àâ‡ªìπ‡ âπ‡≈Á°Ê ·≈â«π”¡“ “π À√◊Õπ”¡“∂—°‡ªìπµ“¢à“¬ ”À√—∫¥—° —µ«å ·≈â« æ—≤π“°“√∂—°„Àâ∂’Ë¬‘Ëß¢÷Èπ®π‡ªìπº◊πºâ“∑’Ë „™âπÿàßÀà¡‰¥â ‡ âπ„¬∑’Ë¡πÿ…¬åπ”¡“∂—°¬ÿ§·√°Ê ‰¥â·°à ‡ âπ„¬®“°‡ª≈◊Õ°‰¡âª√–‡¿∑ªÉ“π ªÕ ·≈– —∫ª–√¥ ‚¥¬π”¡“∑ÿ∫¥â«¬À‘π∑ÿ∫‡ª≈◊Õ°‰¡â (bark cloth-beaters) ∑’ªË √–¥‘…∞å¢π÷È ”À√—∫∑ÿ∫‡ª≈◊Õ°‰¡â‚¥¬‡©æ“– ´÷ßË æ∫„π·À≈àß‚∫√“≥§¥’ ¡—¬°àÕπ ª√–«—µ»‘ “ µ√å „π¿“§„µâ·≈–¿“§µ–«—πÕÕ°‡©’¬ß‡Àπ◊Õ ‡©æ“–„π¿“§„µâæ∫∑’Ë ∂È”‡∫◊ÕÈ ß·∫∫ µ”∫≈ ∫â“π∑”‡π’¬∫ Õ”‡¿Õ§’√’√—∞π‘§¡ ®—ßÀ«—¥ ÿ√“…Æ√å∏“π’ (Õ“¬ÿª√–¡“≥ Û,ı ∂÷ß Û,Ù ªï) ·≈– ∑’Ë ·À≈¡ªÑÕ¡ µ”∫≈∫â“π¡à«ß Õ”‡¿Õµ–°—Ë«ªÉ“ ®—ßÀ«—¥æ—ßß“ πÕ°®“°π’È¬—ßæ∫∑’Ë ·À≈àß‚∫√“≥§¥’ ¡—¬°àÕπª√–«—µ»‘ “ µ√å∫“â π‡™’¬ß µ”∫≈∫â“π‡™’¬ß Õ”‡¿ÕÀπÕßÀ“π ®—ßÀ«—¥Õÿ¥√∏“π’ ·≈–∑’∫Ë √‘‡«≥ 95

‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡„π«‘∂’‰∑¬

˘ı

ºâ“ ‘Ëß∑’Ë∑Õ‡ªìπº◊π ¥â«¬ ΩÑ“¬ ‰À¡ ¢π —µ«å ‡ªìπµâπ ‡æ◊ËÕ„™â‡ªìπ‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡ ¡’ ’ —π·≈–≈«¥≈“¬µà“ßÊ °—π

¥Õ°ΩÑ“¬ Cotton

°—≠™“ ‰¡â≈â¡≈ÿ°™π‘¥Àπ÷Ëß „∫¡π‡ªìπ·©°Ê ‡¢â“‰ª∑“ß°â“π„∫ ™àÕ¥Õ°µ—«ºŸâ·≈–µ—«‡¡’¬Õ¬Ÿà§π≈–µâπ „∫·≈–™àÕ¥Õ°µ—«‡¡’¬∑’Ë·Àâß·≈â« ‡√’¬° °–À≈’Ë°—≠™“ „™â Ÿ∫„Àâ¡÷π‡¡“ ‡ª≈◊Õ°≈”µâπ„™â∑”‡™◊Õ°ªÉ“π ·≈–∑Õºâ“ ºâ“∑’Ë∑Õ¥â«¬ ‡ª≈◊Õ°°—≠™“‡√’¬° ºâ“„¬°—≠™“ Õ‘È« ‡§√◊ËÕß¡◊Õ ”À√—∫·¬°‡ª≈◊Õ° ·≈–‡¡≈Á¥ΩÑ“¬ÕÕ°®“° ¡ÕΩÑ“¬ ∑”¥â«¬‰¡â ÕßÕ—π∑”‡ªìπ‡°≈’¬«¢∫°—π ¡’¡◊ÕÀ¡ÿπ√–À«à“ß™àÕß·°π‰¡â∑—Èß Õß „™â ≈—°ª√—∫„Àâ·§∫À√◊Õ°«â“ß‰¥â ¡’‡ “‰¡â Õß‡ “‡ªìπ∞“π ‡¡◊ËÕÀ¡ÿπ„Àâ ‰¡â¢∫°—π°Á®–¢∫·¬° ‡ª≈◊Õ° ªÿ¬ΩÑ“¬·≈–‡¡≈Á¥ÕÕ°®“°°—π ªÿ¬ΩÑ“¬®–≈Õ¥ÕÕ°‰ª∑“ßÀπ÷Ëß ‡ª≈◊Õ°·≈–‡¡≈Á¥√à«ß≈ßÕ’°¥â“πÀπ÷Ëß ®“°π—Èπ®÷ßπ”ªÿ¬ΩÑ“¬∑’ËÕ‘È«·≈â« ‰ª¥’¥„Àâ‡ªìπªÿ¬øŸ ·≈â«®÷ßπ”‰ªªíòπ‡ªìπ‡ âπ¥â“¬

®—ßÀ«—¥°“≠®π∫ÿ√’ Ò À‘π∑ÿ∫‡ª≈◊Õ°‰¡â¡’¢π“¥‡∑à“°”ªíôπ ¥â“π Àπâ“∫“°‡ªìπ√Õ¬°“°∫“∑µ—¥°—π∑—Èßº‘«Àπâ“‡æ◊ËÕ„Àâ∑ÿ∫‡ª≈◊Õ° ‰¡â ‰¥â¥’ πÕ°®“°À‘π∑ÿ∫‡ª≈◊Õ°‰¡â·≈â« ¬—ßæ∫‡¢Á¡∑’Ë∑”®“° ‡¢“ —µ«å „π‡¢µ ∫â“π‡°à“ µ”∫≈®√–‡¢â‡º◊Õ° Õ”‡¿Õ‡¡◊Õß ®—ßÀ«—¥°“≠®π∫ÿ√’ À≈—°∞“π ”§—≠Õ’°Õ¬à“ßÀπ÷ßË ∑’¬Ë π◊ ¬—π«à“ ¡πÿ…¬å ¡—¬°àÕπ ª√–«—µ‘»“ µ√å „πª√–‡∑»‰∑¬π”‡ âπ„¬®“°‡ª≈◊Õ°‰¡â¡“øíòπ À√◊Õ∫‘¥‡ªìπ‡™◊Õ° ”À√—∫ºŸ°¡—¥ ‘ßË ¢Õß À√◊Õ∂—°‡ªìπµ“¢à“¬ §◊Õ √Õ¬‡™◊Õ°∫π¿“™π–¥‘π‡º“∑’æË ∫„π·À≈àß‚∫√“≥§¥’ ¡—¬°àÕπ ª√–«—µ»‘ “ µ√åÀ≈“¬·Ààß ‡™àπ √Õ¬‡™◊Õ°∑“∫∫π¿“™π–¥‘π‡º“ ∑’Ë ∂È”º’ ®—ßÀ«—¥·¡àŒÕà ß Õπ —ππ‘…∞“π«à“¡’Õ“¬ÿ√“« ˆ, ªï ∑“∫¥â«¬‡™◊Õ°‡ âπ‡≈Á°Ê ‡ âπºà“»Ÿπ¬å°≈“ßª√–¡“≥ .ı ∂÷ß Û ¡‘≈≈‘‡¡µ√ øíòπµ“¡‡¢Á¡π“Ãî°“ ´÷Ëß‡ªìπ«‘∏’°“√øíòπ‡™◊Õ°∑’Ë ™“«∫â“π¬—ß„™â°—πÕ¬Ÿà „πªí®®ÿ∫—π

µàÕ¡“„π¬ÿ§‚≈À–ª√–¡“≥ Ú,˜ ªï ∂÷ß Ò,ı ªï¡“·≈â« ‡™◊ËÕ«à“¡πÿ…¬å ¡—¬°àÕπª√–«—µ‘»“ µ√å¬ÿ§‚≈À–∑’ËÕ“»—¬Õ¬Ÿà „π ª√–‡∑»‰∑¬ “¡“√∂∑Õºâ“‡ªìπ‡§√◊ÕË ßπÿßà Àà¡‰¥â ‡æ√“–æ∫‡»… ºâ “ µ‘ ¥ Õ¬Ÿà ∑’Ë °”‰≈ ”√‘ ¥ ¢Õß‚§√ß°√–¥Ÿ ° ¡πÿ … ¬å ¡— ¬ °à Õ π ª√–«—µ»‘ “ µ√å¬§ÿ ‚≈À–∑’Ë »Ÿπ¬å°“√∑À“√ªóπ„À≠à Õ”‡¿Õ‡¡◊Õß ®—ßÀ«—¥≈æ∫ÿ√’ (‡¡◊ÕË æ.».Úı¯) —ππ‘…∞“π«à“ ¡πÿ…¬å¬§ÿ ‚≈À– «¡‡ ◊ÈÕºâ“∑’Ë∑Õ¥â«¬ ªÉ“π°—≠™“Ú πÕ°®“°π’È ¬—ßæ∫‡»…ºâ“ µ‘¥Õ¬Ÿà∫π°”‰≈ ”√‘¥¢Õß¡πÿ…¬å ¡—¬°àÕπª√–«—µ‘»“ µ√å¬ÿ§ ‚≈À–∑’Ë ·À≈àß‚∫√“≥§¥’ ¡—¬°àÕπª√–«—µ‘»“ µ√å∫â“π‡™’¬ß À≈—°∞“π∑’·Ë ¥ß«à“¡πÿ…¬å ¡—¬°àÕπª√–«—µ»‘ “ µ√å “¡“√∂ ªíòπ‡ âπ„¬®“°ªÿ¬ΩÑ“¬‰¥â·≈â«§◊Õ ·« (spindle whorl) ∑’Ë∑” ¥â«¬°–≈“¡–æ√â“« ‡ª≈◊Õ°ÀÕ¬ ·≈–¥‘π‡º“‡ªìπ·ºàπ°≈¡Ê ¢π“¥‡∑à“À—«·¡à¡◊Õ¡’ ‰¡â‡≈Á°Ê ‡ ’¬∫Õ¬Ÿàµ√ß°≈“ß ”À√—∫ ªíòπ‡ âπ„¬„Àâ‡ªìπ‡°≈’¬« πÕ°®“°π’È¬—ßæ∫≈Ÿ°°≈‘Èß¥‘π‡º“∑’Ë —ππ‘…∞“π«à“„™âæ‘¡æå≈«¥≈“¬≈ß∫πºâ“ ‚¥¬„™â ’∑’Ë ‰¥â®“° ¬“ß‰¡â ¥‘π·≈–À‘π ∑“∫π≈“¬≈Ÿ°°≈‘Èß·≈â«°≈‘Èß≈ß∫πº◊πºâ“ ‚¥¬µ√ß ‡°‘¥≈“¬µàÕ‡π◊ËÕß°—π‰ª °“√°≈‘Èß ’≈ß∫πºâ“π’ÈÕ“®®– ‡ªìπµâπ·∫∫¢Õß°“√æ‘¡æå≈«¥≈“¬·≈–‡¢’¬π≈“¬≈ß∫πºâ“ „π ¡—¬µàÕÊ ¡“ ·«¥‘π‡º“∑’Ëæ∫∑—Ë«‰ª¡—°∑”‡ªìπ°âÕπ°≈¡Ê ¢π“¥‡ âπ ºà“»Ÿπ¬å°≈“ß Ú.ı ∂÷ß Ù.ı ‡´Áπµ‘‡¡µ√ Àπ“ .˜ ∂÷ß Û.ı ‡´Áπµ‘‡¡µ√ Àπ—° Ò ∂÷ß Òı °√—¡ ∫“ß·Ààß∑”‡ªìπ√Ÿª°√«¬ µ√ß®ÿ¥»Ÿπ¬å°≈“ß‡®“–√Ÿ ”À√—∫ Õ¥·°π‰¡â‡≈Á°æ—πªÿ¬ΩÑ“¬ ª≈“¬‰¡â®–¡’‡ß’¬Ë ß·≈–√àÕß ”À√—∫‡°’¬Ë «·≈–æ—πªÿ¬ΩÑ“¬ πÈ”Àπ—°

°ß¥’¥ΩÑ“¬ ‡§√◊ËÕß¥’¥ΩÑ“¬„Àâ‡ªìπªÿ¬ ∑”¥â«¬‰¡â ‰ºà §≈â“¬§—π°√– ÿπ ·µà¥â“πÀπ÷Ëß‚§âß¬“«°«à“Õ’°¥â“πÀπ÷Ëß ¡’‡™◊Õ°¢÷ß‡ªìπ “¬ ”À√—∫¥’¥ΩÑ“¬ °“√¬‘ßÀ√◊Õ¥’¥ΩÑ“¬µâÕß„ à¥â“π¬“« ≈ß‰ª¥’¥ΩÑ“¬∑’ËÕ¬Ÿà„π°–‡æ’¬¥ À√◊Õ¿“™π–„ àΩÑ“¬ ¥÷ß “¬°ß ·≈â«ª≈àÕ¬ ≈—∫°—π‰ª‡√◊ËÕ¬Ê ®πªÿ¬ΩÑ“¬øŸ ®÷ß¢¬ÿâ¡ªÿ¬ΩÑ“¬ ‰ªæ—π√Õ∫‰¡â≈âÕ ®π‡ªìπÀ≈Õ¥‡≈Á°Ê ‡√’¬° µ‘È« ®“°π—Èππ”‰ªªíòπ ‡ªìπ‡ âπ¥â“¬µàÕ‰ª

°“√¥’¥ΩÑ“¬ Cotton beating

˘ˆ

°“√ “«‰À¡ Silk thread spinning

¢Õß·«™à«¬„Àâ‡°‘¥·√ß‡À«’¬Ë ß (rotary motion) À¡ÿπ‰¥âπ“π ¢π“¥¢Õß·«µà“ß°—πµ“¡¢π“¥¢Õß‡ âπ„¬ ·«¢π“¥‡≈Á°„™â ªíπò ¢π —µ«å ¢π“¥„À≠à „™âªπíò ‡ âπ„¬®“°æ◊™ ‡™àπ „¬ªÉ“π≈‘ππ‘ (flax) ªÉ“π°—≠™“ (hemp) ·«™à«¬„Àâ‡ âπ„¬∫‘¥‡ªìπ‡°≈’¬«Õ¬à“ß µàÕ‡π◊ËÕß ¡πÿ…¬å „™â·«ªíòπ‡ âπ„¬°—π∑—Ë«‰ª∑—Èß„π∑«’ª‡Õ‡™’¬ ·Õø√‘°“·≈–Õ‡¡√‘°“‡Àπ◊Õ ‡ âπ„¬∑’Ëªíòπ¥â«¬·«Õ“®‡ªìπ ‡ âπ„¬ —ÈπÊ §ÿ≥¿“æ‰¡à¥’π—° ·µà°Á „™â·«°—π‡√◊ËÕ¬¡“®π∂÷ß æÿ∑∏»µ«√√…∑’Ë ÚÛ ®÷ß‡≈‘°„™â ‡¡◊ËÕ¡πÿ…¬åª√–¥‘…∞å‡§√◊ËÕß ªíòπ¥â“¬¢÷Èπ„™â ºâ“ ¡—¬°àÕπª√–«—µ»‘ “ µ√å π— π‘…∞“π«à“‡ªìπºâ“∂—°∑’Ë „™â‡ âπ ¥â“¬ Õ¥¢—¥°—π‡À¡◊Õπ°“√ “π≈“¬¢—¥ ‡æ√“–‡»…ºâ“∑’Ëæ∫ ¡—°‡ªìπºâ“‡π◊ÈÕÀ¬“∫Ê ¡’‡ âπ„¬¢—¥°—πª√–¡“≥ Ò x ˆ ∂÷ß ÒÙ x ÒÙ ‡ âπ µàÕ Ò µ“√“ß‡´Áπµ‘‡¡µ√ ‡ªìπ‡æ’¬ß‡ âπ„¬ ∑’Ë¢—¥°—π‡∑à“π—Èπ ‰¡àæ∫√‘¡ºâ“ ‡ âπ¥â“¬∑’Ëæ∫¡’¢π“¥‰¡à‡∑à“°—π ·≈–µ’‡°≈’¬«Õ¬à“ßÀ≈«¡Ê µ“¡‡¢Á¡π“Ãî°“ ®÷ßπà“®–‡ªìπ ºâ“∂—°¡“°°«à“∑Õ¥â«¬°’ËÀ√◊ÕÀŸ° ´÷Ëß‰¡à√Ÿâ«à“‡ âπ„¥‡ªìπ‡ âπ¬◊π À√◊Õ‡ âπæÿàß Õ¬à“ß‰√°Áµ“¡ «—µ∂ÿ¥‘∫∑’Ëπ”¡“∑Õºâ“·≈–«‘∏’°“√∑Õºâ“‰¥â æ—≤π“¡“‡ªìπ≈”¥—∫ ‡©æ“–«—µ∂ÿ¥‘∫π—Èπ ¡πÿ…¬åπ”‡ª≈◊Õ°‰¡â ·≈–„∫‰¡â∑’Ë¡’‡ âπ„¬ ‡™àπ ªÉ“π ªÕ „∫ —∫ª–√¥¡“·ª√√Ÿª ‡ªìπ‡ âπ„¬ ‚¥¬·™àπÈ”„Àâ¬ÿà¬·≈â«„™âÀ‘πÀ√◊Õ‰¡â∑ÿ∫„Àâ«ÿâπ (gelatine) À≈ÿ¥ π”‡ âπ„¬¡“∑”‡ªìπ‡ âπ‡æ◊ËÕ∂—°·≈–∑Õ ‡ªìπº◊πºâ“‰¥âÕ¬à“ß™“≠©≈“¥ µàÕ¡“‰¥âπ”ªÿ¬¢ÕßΩÑ“¬´÷Ëß ‡ªìπ‰¡âæ¡ÿà ¡’À≈“¬™π‘¥ ‡™àπ ™π‘¥ªÿ¬ ’¢“« ·≈– ’πÈ”µ“≈ÕàÕπ

‚¥¬‡°Á∫ ¡ÕΩÑ“¬¡“µ“°„Àâ·Àâß π‘∑°àÕπ®–π”‰ª Õ‘È« ‡æ◊ËÕ ·¬°‡¡≈Á¥ÕÕ°®“°ªÿ¬ΩÑ“¬ ®“°π—Èππ”‰ª¥’¥¥â«¬ °ß¥’¥ΩÑ“¬ „Àâªÿ¬ΩÑ“¬·µ°µ—«øŸ „™â ‰¡â≈âÕ ´÷Ëß‡ªìπ‰¡â·∑àß°≈¡‡≈Á°Ê §≈÷ß ªÿ¬ΩÑ“¬∫π‰¡â°√–¥“π≈âÕ ®π‡ªìπ·∑àß°≈¡¬“«·≈â«¥÷ß‰¡â≈âÕ ÕÕ° ªÿ¬ΩÑ“¬∑’Ë‡ªìπÀ≈Õ¥‡√’¬° µ‘È« π”‰ª‡¢ÁπÀ√◊Õªíòπ„Àâ‡ªìπ ‡ âπ„¬¥â«¬ ‰π À√◊Õ À≈“ ®π¥â“¬‡µÁ¡‰π ·≈â« “«®—¥‡¢â“ ‰¡â¢“‡ªï¬ „Àâ‡ªìπ ‰® À√◊Õ ªÕ¬ ªíòπ‡¢â“°ß ®“°°ßªíòπ‡¢â“ À≈Õ¥ ¢÷ß ‡ âπ¬◊π (‡ âπ‡§√◊Õ) ·≈â«∑Õ‡ªìπº◊πºâ“ Õ“®‡ªìπ ’ ∏√√¡™“µ‘ À√◊Õ¬âÕ¡„Àâ‡ªìπ ’µà“ßÊ ‰À¡ ‡ âπ„¬¡À—»®√√¬å∑’Ë§π®’ππ”¡“®“°„¬∑’ËÀÿâ¡¥—°·¥â ¢Õßµ—«‰À¡ ‡√’¬°ºâ“∑’Ë∑Õ¥â«¬‡ âπ„¬‰À¡«à“ ºâ“‰À¡ °“√ “«‰À¡ °“√¬âÕ¡‰À¡ ·≈–°“√°√Õ‰À¡µ“¡°√√¡«‘∏æ’ π◊È ∫â“π ‚¥¬∑—Ë«‰ª®–§≈â“¬§≈÷ß°—π ‡√‘Ë¡µ—Èß·µà°“√‡≈’È¬ß‰À¡„Àâ ‚µ ‡µÁ¡«—¬ ®π √â“ß√—ßÀÿâ¡µ—« ’‡À≈◊Õß π”√—ß‰À¡„ àÀ¡âÕµâ¡ „™âæ“¬‡≈Á°Ê °¥„Àâ ‰À¡®¡πÈ” ‡¡◊ËÕ√—ß‰À¡≈Õ¬¢÷Èπ¡“°Á§àÕ¬Ê “«‡ â π ‰À¡ºà “ π √–·∑– ‰ª‰«â „ π°√–¥â ß ‡¡◊Ë Õ “«‰À¡ ®πÀ¡¥À¡âÕ·≈â« ®÷ß‡∑™ÿ¥„À¡à≈ß‰ª ‡ âπ„¬‰À¡∑’Ë “« §√—Èß·√°®–„À≠à·≈–À¬“∫ ‡√’¬° ‰À¡„À≠à à«π‰À¡™—Èπ„π ‡ âπ‡≈Á° ‡√’¬° ‰À¡πâÕ¬ ´÷Ë ß ‡ªì π ‰À¡™—È π ¥’ ‰À¡∑’Ë ‰ ¥â ® –¡’ ’‡À≈◊ÕßµâÕßπ”‰ªøÕ° ’ ‚¥¬·™à „ππÈ” –Õ“¥ ·≈â«µâ¡„ππÈ” ∑’Ë ‰¥â®“°°“√·™à°“∫°≈â«¬·Àâß ß«ßµ“≈ À√◊Õø“ß¢â“«∑’Ë¡’ ¿“æ‡ªìπ¥à“ß ‡ √Á®·≈â«≈â“ßπÈ”„Àâ –Õ“¥ π”‰ªº÷Ëß·¥¥ „Àâ·Àâß ®“°π—Èππ”‰ª¬âÕ¡ ’ ¡â«π‡¢â“À≈Õ¥‡æ◊ËÕπ”‰ª∑Õ ‡ªìπºâ“µàÕ‰ª 97

‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡„π«‘∂’‰∑¬

˘˜

‰π À√◊Õ À≈“ ‡§√◊ÕË ß°√ÕΩÑ“¬À√◊Õ‰À¡ ‡æ◊ËÕ∑”‡ªìπ‰®À√◊Õ‡ªìπ‡¢Á¥‰«â‡¢â“À≈Õ¥ °àÕπ∑’Ë®–π”‰ª„ à°√– «¬∑Õºâ“ à«πª√–°Õ∫¢Õß‰π§◊Õ °ß≈âÕ¢π“¥„À≠à ¡’¢“·≈–∞“π ¡’∑’Ë®—∫ ”À√—∫À¡ÿπ¥â«¬¡◊Õ „Àâ°ß≈âÕÀ¡ÿπ√Õ∫µ—«‡Õß °ß≈âÕπ’È®–¡’ “¬æ“π‚¬ß‰ªÕ’°¥â“πÀπ÷Ëß ¡’·°π‡À≈Á°‡≈Á°Ê ‡√’¬° ‡À≈Á°‰π ∑’ËÀ¡ÿπ√Õ∫µπ‡Õß‰¥â‡™àπ°—π ‡¡◊ËÕÀ¡ÿπ°ß≈âÕ ‡À≈Á°‰π®–À¡ÿπµ“¡ ·≈–°√Õªÿ¬ΩÑ“¬„Àâ‡ªìπ‡ âπ ‡¡◊ËÕµâÕß°“√°√Õ¥â“¬À√◊Õ‰À¡‡¢â“À≈Õ¥ °Á‡Õ“‡ âπ¥â“¬À√◊Õ‡ âπ‰À¡æ—π°—∫À≈Õ¥ ·≈â«À¡ÿπ°ß≈âÕ „ÀâÀ≈Õ¥¥â“¬ À¡ÿπ√Õ∫µ—«‡Õß ¡â«π‡Õ“‡ âπ¥â“¬ À√◊Õ‡ âπ‰À¡‡¢â“À≈Õ¥µ“¡µâÕß°“√ “Nai” or “la” is a hand-operated spinning wheel to spin cotton or silk into thread. It consists of a big wheel fitted on a base with a spindle, a conveyor belt, and a handle for turning the wheel. It can also be used to spin silk or cotton thread into a shuttle.

‡ âπ‰À¡∏√√¡™“µ‘ Natural silk threads.

ΩÑ“¬æ◊Èπ‡¡◊Õß ·≈–«— ¥ÿ¬Õâ ¡ ’µ“¡∏√√¡™“µ‘ Homespun cotton and various objects for natural dyes.

˘¯

¢π —µ«å ‡ âπ„¬Õ’°™π‘¥Àπ÷Ëß „™â¢π —µ«å ‡™àπ ¢π·°– ¡“ øíòπ‡ªìπ‡ âπ·≈â«®÷ß∑Õ‡ªìπº◊πºâ“ ‡√’¬° ºâ“¢π —µ«å ‡¡◊ÕË ¡πÿ…¬å “¡“√∂º≈‘µ‡ âπ„¬ ”À√—∫„™â∑Õºâ“‰¥â·≈â« ‡™◊ÕË «à“¡’°“√π”‡ âπ„¬¡“¬âÕ¡„Àâ¡’ ’ —π «¬ß“¡ ‚¥¬„™â«—µ∂ÿ¥‘∫ ®“°∏√√¡™“µ‘‡ªìπ ’¬âÕ¡¡“π“ππ—∫æ—πÊ ªï à«π¡“°„™â ¥Õ° º≈ √“° ‡ª≈◊Õ° ·≈–·°àπ¢Õßµâπ‰¡â∫“ß™π‘¥π”¡“ µâ¡À√◊ÕÀ¡—° ‡™à π ’§√“¡ ‰¥â®“°°“√À¡—°µâπ§√“¡À√◊Õ µâ π Àâ Õ ¡ ’ ¥” ®“°º≈¡–‡°≈◊Õ·≈–≈Ÿ° ¡Õ ’‡À≈◊Õß ®“° ‰¡â¢πÿπ·≈–¢¡‘πÈ ’·¥ß ®“°·°àπ¬ÕªÉ“·≈–‰¡âΩ“ß ’‡¢’¬« ®“° „∫ ¡ÕªÉ“ ’‡¢’¬«ÕàÕπ ®“°„∫·§ ’°“°’ ®“°„∫ —°À√◊Õ ¢¡‘Èπ™—π ‡ªìπµâπ ªí®®ÿ∫—π™“«∫â“π„π¿“§‡Àπ◊Õ·≈–¿“§ µ–«—πÕÕ°‡©’¬ß‡Àπ◊Õ¬—ß„™â ’∑’Ë ‰¥â®“°∏√√¡™“µ‘‡À≈à“π’È¬âÕ¡ ‡ âπ¥â“¬®“°ΩÑ“¬·≈–‡ âπ‰À¡°—πÕ¬Ÿà∑—Ë«‰ª °“√¬âÕ¡ ’‡ âπ„¬ (¥â“¬ΩÑ“¬·≈–‡ âπ‰À¡) ·µà‡¥‘¡Õ“®®– ¬âÕ¡ ’‡√’¬∫Ê ’µ‘¥∫â“ß‰¡àµ‘¥∫â“ß ∑”„Àâ‡ âπ„¬¥à“ß ‡¡◊ËÕπ” ¡“∑Õ‡ªìπº◊πºâ“®÷ß¡’√Õ¬¥à“ß‡ªìπ√‘È«‡ªìπ√Õ¬ ´÷ËßÕ“®‡ªìπ ∑’Ë¡“¢Õß°“√¡—¥¬âÕ¡„Àâ‡°‘¥√Õ¬¥à“ßÕ¬à“ß®ß„® ¥â«¬°“√¡—¥ À√◊ÕºŸ° à«π∑’Ë ‰¡àµâÕß°“√„Àâ ’µ‘¥Õ¬à“ß°“√∑Õºâ“¡—¥À¡’Ë πÕ°®“°«—µ∂ÿ¥∫‘ ∑’πË ”¡“·ª√√Ÿª „Àâ‡ªìπ‡ âπ¥â“¬ ‡ âπ‰À¡ ”À√— ∫ ∑Õºâ “ ¥— ß °≈à “ «·≈â « ªí ® ®ÿ ∫— π ¡’ ° “√º≈‘ µ ‡ â π „¬ —ß‡§√“–Àå™π‘¥µà“ßÊ ‡æ◊ÕË π”¡“∑Õºâ“„Àâ‡À¡“– ¡ Õ¥§≈âÕß °—∫°“√„™â Õ¬‡ªìπ®”π«π¡“° à«π°√√¡«‘∏’∑Õºâ“π—Èπ ¡πÿ…¬åÕ“®æ—≤π“®“°°“√∂—° °àÕπ∑’Ë®–æ—≤π“‡ªìπ°“√∑Õ∑’Ë§≈â“¬°—∫°“√ “π Õ“®‡ªìπ°“√ ∑Õ°÷ßË ∂—°∑’Ë „™âπ«‘È ¡◊Õ Õ¥ ‡ âπ¬◊π (warp ) ·≈– ‡ âπæÿßà (weft) À√◊Õ ‡ âππÕπ „Àâ¢—¥°—π (finger weaving) µàÕ¡“®÷ßæ—≤π“ ¡“‡ªìπ°“√ ∑Õ·∫∫·π«πÕπ (horizontal ground loom) ‚¥¬¢÷ß¥â“¬‡ âπ¬◊π‰«â „π·π«πÕπ ¡’‡ âπ¥â“¬ºŸ°µ‘¥°—∫¥â“¬ À√◊Õ ‰À¡‡ âπ¬◊π ≈—∫°—π∑ÿ°‡ âπ ·≈–ºŸ°ª≈“¬‡ âπ¥â“¬‡À≈à“π—Èπ ‡¢â“°—∫‰¡â ‡æ◊ËÕ„Àâ “¡“√∂¬°¥â“¬À√◊Õ‰À¡‡ âπ¬◊π¢÷Èπ≈ß‰¥â –¥«° ¢≥–∑’Ë Õ¥‡ âπ¥â“¬À√◊Õ‰À¡‡ âππÕπÀ√◊Õ‡ âπæÿàß ¢—¥‡¢â“‰ª§≈â“¬°—∫°“√ “π‡ ◊ËÕ °“√∑Õ«‘∏’π’È¬—ß‰¡à „™â‡§√◊ËÕß ∑Õºâ“À√◊ÕÀŸ° À“°·µà „™â‡æ’¬ß‰¡â·∫πÊ (sword batten) °√–∑∫¥â“¬‡ âππÕπ„Àâ·π∫°—π·πàπ ®÷ß∑Õ‰¥â‡©æ“–ºâ“Àπâ“ ·§∫Ê Õ¬à“ßºâ“√—¥‡Õ« À√◊Õ√—¥ª√–§¥¢Õß¿‘°…ÿ ·≈–°“√∑Õ ºâ“Àπâ“·§∫¢Õß™“«‡¢“∫“ß‡ºà“´÷Ëß¬—ß∑Õ°—πÕ¬Ÿà „πªí®®ÿ∫—π µà Õ ¡“°√–∫«π°“√∑Õºâ “ ‰¥â æ— ≤ π“‰ªÕ’ ° ¢—È π Àπ÷Ë ß ¡’°“√π”‡§√◊ËÕß¡◊Õ‡¢â“¡“™à«¬„π°“√∑Õ¡“°¢÷Èπ§◊Õ °“√∑Õ ·∫∫¢÷ß°—∫À≈—ß (backstrap loom) ‚¥¬¢÷ß‡ âπ¬◊π Õß¢â“ß ‰«â°—∫·ºàπ‰¡â ºŸ°ª≈“¬Àπ÷Ëß‰«â°—∫µâπ‰¡âÀ√◊Õ‡ “‡√◊Õπ Õ’° ¢â“ßÀπ÷ËßºŸ°‡¢â“°—∫‡Õ«ºŸâ∑Õ „™â‡™◊Õ°§≈âÕßÀ—«∑â“¬¢Õß‰¡â·≈â« §≈âÕß°—∫‡Õ« °“√∑Õ≈—°…≥–π’Èºâ∑Ÿ Õ “¡“√∂∫—ß§—∫„Àâ‡ âπ¬◊π µ÷ßÀ√◊ÕÀ¬àÕπ‰¥âµ“¡§«“¡µâÕß°“√ ∑”„Àâ∑Õ‰¥â –¥«° ‡¡◊ËÕ

«—µ∂ÿ¥‘∫æ◊Èπ∫â“π ∑’Ë„™â¬âÕ¡‰À¡ ·≈–ΩÑ“¬

ºŸâ∑Õ‚πâ¡µ—«‰ª¢â“ßÀπâ“‡ âπ¬◊π®–À¬àÕπ À“°‡Õπµ—«¡“ ¥â“πÀ≈—ß‡ âπ¬◊π®–µ÷ß ™à«¬„Àâ Õ¥‡ âπæÿàß‰¥âßà“¬ ‡À¡“– ”À√—∫∑Õºâ“Àπâ“·§∫ ¬—ß¡’º∑Ÿâ Õºâ“¥â«¬«‘∏π’ ’È „πÀ≈“¬ª√–‡∑» ‡™àπ πÕ√å‡«¬å ·Õø√‘°“ ‡Õ°«“¥Õ√å Œ“«“¬ ®’π æ¡à“ ∏‘‡∫µ À¡Ÿà‡°“–™«“ ·≈–™“«‡¢“∫“ß‡ºà“„πª√–‡∑»‰∑¬ ‚¥¬‡©æ“– ™“«°–‡À√’Ë¬ß∑’Ë „™â∑Õºâ“ ”À√—∫∑”¬à“¡ ‡æ√“–∑Õ‰¥â –¥«° ‰¡àµâÕß„™â°’Ë ·≈–∑Õ‡ªìπ≈«¥≈“¬µà“ßÊ ‰¥âßà“¬ ¡’ºŸâª√–¥‘…∞å‡§√◊ËÕß∑Õºâ“Õ¬à“ßßà“¬Ê ∑’Ë‡√’¬°«à“ ªíß°’Ë À√◊Õ ‚ªÉ°’Ë ¢÷Èπ„™â‡¡◊ËÕª√–¡“≥ Ò,¯ ªï¡“·≈â« ªí®®ÿ∫—π„π ¿“§‡Àπ◊Õ·≈–¿“§µ–«—πÕÕ°‡©’¬ß‡Àπ◊Õ‡√’¬° ÀŸ° À√◊Õ °’Ë ÀŸ°æ◊Èπ∫â“πª√–°Õ∫¥â«¬‚§√ß‰¡â√Ÿª ’Ë‡À≈’Ë¬¡ ¡’‡ “ ’Ë‡ “ ¬÷¥ ‚§√ß √â“ß¥â«¬ ‰¡â§“π°’Ë ¡’ ‰¡â§”æ—Ëπ¬÷¥‡ âπ¬◊π ·≈–‡ªìπ ∑’Ë¡â«π‡°Á∫ºâ“∑’Ë∑Õ·≈â« ‰¡â ‰¢«â ‡ªì π ‰¡â ¥â “ πÀ— « °’Ë ∑’Ë ™à « ¬„Àâ ‡ âπ¬◊πµ÷ß πÕ°®“° à«πª√–°Õ∫¢Õß‚§√ß°’∫Ë “ß à«π¥—ß°≈à“« ·≈â « à«πª√–°Õ∫∑’Ë‡ªìπ‡§√◊ËÕß¡◊Õ ”§—≠∑’Ë· ¥ß„Àâ‡ÀÁπ æ—≤π“°“√¢Õß°’ËÀ√◊ÕÀŸ°∑Õºâ“§◊Õ øó¡ ‡§√◊ËÕß°√–∑∫‡ âπæÿàß ∑’Ëæ—≤π“¡“®“°°“√„™â ‰¡â°√–∑∫ øó¡ª√–°Õ∫¥â«¬‰¡âÀ√◊Õ ‡À≈Á°‡ªìπ´’∂Ë Ê’Ë §≈â“¬À«’‡æ◊ÕË „Àâ Õ¥¥â“¬‡ âπ¬◊πºà“π‡¢â“‰ª‰¥â „™âøó¡°√–∑∫„Àâ‡ âπæÿàß∑’Ë Õ¥¢—¥°—∫¥â“¬‡ âπ¬◊π·πàπ·≈– ‡√’¬∫‡ ¡Õ°—π §«“¡°«â“ß¢Õßøó¡‡ªìπµ—«°”Àπ¥¢π“¥ §«“¡°«â“ß¢ÕßÀπâ“ºâ“ ·≈–™àÕßøíπÀ«’‡ªìπµ—«°”Àπ¥§«“¡ °«â“ß¢Õßøó¡ ‡™àπ øó¡¢π“¥ Ú ™àÕßøíπÀ«’ ‡ªìπµâπ à«πª√–°Õ∫ ”§—≠Õ’°Õ¬à“ßÀπ÷Ëß§◊Õ ‰¡â¢—¥√àÕß‡¢“ ‡ªìπ ´’Ë ‰¡â°≈¡Ê ¡—°∑”¥â«¬‰¡â ‰ºà „™â‡ªìπ‡§√◊ËÕß¬°À√◊Õ¢à¡¥â“¬ ‡ âπ¬◊πµ“¡√Ÿª·∫∫·≈–≈«¥≈“¬¢Õßºâ“∑’ËµâÕß°“√®–∑Õ ‚¥¬ ºŸ°‚¬ß‡ âπ¬◊π‰«â°∫— ‰¡â‡À¬’¬∫ÀŸ° ´÷ßË ºŸ∑â Õ®–‡À¬’¬∫¢÷πÈ ≈ß§≈â“¬ °—∫°“√¬°‡ âπµÕ°„π°“√ “π‡§√◊ËÕß®—° “π °“√‡À¬’¬∫‰¡â 99

‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡„π«‘∂’‰∑¬

˘˘

Objects in natural surroundings that can be used to dye fabrics.

°’Ë À√◊Õ ÀŸ°∑Õºâ“ A hand loom for fabric weaving.

°√– «¬ ·≈– øó¡ æ—≤π“°“√¢Õß°’Ë À√◊ÕÀŸ°∑Õºâ“ Shuttle and other parts of the developed loom.

‡À¬’¬∫ÀŸ°µâÕß —¡æ—π∏å°∫— °“√æÿßà °√– «¬ ´÷ßË ‡ªìπ‰¡â¢π“¥‡≈Á° µ√ß°≈“ßªÉÕß§≈â“¬‡√◊Õ (¿“§‡Àπ◊Õ‡√’¬° ‡Œ◊Õ) ¡’√àÕß ”À√—∫ „ àÀ≈Õ¥¥â“¬∑’Ë®–„™â‡ªìπ‡ âπæÿàß ‚¥¬æÿàß ≈—∫°—π®“°√‘¡¥â“π ¢«“‰ª´â“¬ ®“°´â“¬‰ª¢«“ ≈—∫°—∫°“√°√–∑∫øó¡ ∑”‡™àππ’È ‰ª‡√◊ËÕ¬Ê ®π°«à“®–‰¥âº◊πºâ“µ“¡µâÕß°“√ °√– «¬®÷ß‡ªìπ ‡§√◊ÕË ß¡◊Õ ”§—≠´÷ßË ¡πÿ…¬åæ≤— π“¢÷πÈ „™â·∑π°“√ Õ¥¥â“¬‡ âπæÿßà ¥â«¬π‘È« ∑”„Àâ∑Õºâ“‰¥â√«¥‡√Á« °“√æ— ≤ π“‡§√◊Ë Õ ß∑Õºâ “ ¢Õß¡πÿ … ¬å ¡‘ ‰ ¥â À ¬ÿ ¥ ‡æ’ ¬ ß ‡∑à“π—Èπ ¡πÿ…¬å ‰¥â§‘¥«‘∏’ Õ¥°√– «¬ºà“π¥â“¬‡ âπ¬◊π°≈—∫‰ª °≈—∫¡“„Àâ√«¥‡√Á«¬‘Ëß¢÷ÈπÕ—π‡ªìπ∑’Ë¡“¢Õß°“√ √â“ß °’Ë°√–µÿ°

Ò

100

(percussion loom) ´÷Ëß„™â°“√°√–µÿ° “¬∫—ß§—∫„Àâ‡°‘¥·√ß °√–·∑° àß°√– «¬„Àâ«ß‘Ë ‰ª·≈â«°≈—∫¡“ ≈—∫°—∫°“√°√–∑∫øó¡ ∑”„Àâ ∑ Õºâ “ ‰¥â √ «¥‡√Á « °«à “ °“√∑Õ¥â « ¬°’Ë ∏ √√¡¥“¡“° ∂÷ß°√–π—Èπ°Áµ“¡ ¡πÿ…¬å¬—ßµâÕß°“√∑Õºâ“‚¥¬‰¡à „ ™â § π ´÷Ë ß ™“«µ–«— π µ° “¡“√∂ª√–¥‘ … ∞å ‡ §√◊Ë Õ ß®— ° √∑Õºâ “ ‰¥â ‡ªì π º≈ ”‡√Á ® „π ¡— ¬ ªØ‘ «— µ‘ Õÿ µ “À°√√¡¢Õß¬ÿ ‚ √ª„π §√‘ µå»µ«√√…∑’Ë Ò˘ ∑”„ÀâÀ—µ∂°√√¡°“√∑Õºâ“¥â«¬¡◊Õ ·≈–·√ßß“π¡πÿ…¬å ‡ª≈’Ë¬π‡ªìπ°“√∑Õ¥â«¬‡§√◊ËÕß®—°√ ·≈–°“√∑Õºâ“°≈“¬‡ªìπº≈º≈‘µ∑“ßÕÿµ “À°√√¡Õ¬à“ß∑’Ë ª√“°ØÕ¬Ÿà „πªí®®ÿ∫—π

ºâ“´‘Ëπµ’π®° A woven lower border design called “tinjok.”

≈«¥≈“¬∫πº◊πºâ“ : »‘≈ª–º “π¿Ÿ¡‘ªí≠≠“‰∑¬ ºâ“∑’Ë¡πÿ…¬å∑Õ¢÷Èπ„™â§√—Èß·√°§ß‡ªìπºâ“æ◊Èπ ’∏√√¡™“µ‘ ‰¡à¡≈’ «¥≈“¬ µàÕ¡“Õ“® √â“ß≈“¬ºâ“¥â«¬°“√æ‘¡æå¥«â ¬≈Ÿ°°≈‘ßÈ ‡æ√“–æ∫≈Ÿ ° °≈‘È ß ¥‘ π ‡º“∑’Ë ¡’ ≈ «¥≈“¬„π·À≈à ß ‚∫√“≥§¥’ ¡—¬°àÕπª√–«—µ‘»“ µ√å∫â“π‡™’¬ß —ππ‘…∞“π«à“‡ªìπ≈Ÿ°°≈‘Èß ”À√—∫„™âæ‘¡æåºâ“ ‚¥¬∑“ ’∫πº‘«≈“¬·≈â«°≈‘Èß‰ª∫πºâ“ ·µà ‰¡à¡À’ ≈—°∞“π«à“ºâ“æ‘¡æå ¡—¬°àÕπª√–«—µ»‘ “ µ√å¡≈’ «¥≈“¬ Õ¬à“ß‰√ ∂÷ß°√–π—Èπ°Áµ“¡ À≈—°∞“π¢â“ß‡§’¬ß ‡™àπ ≈«¥≈“¬

∫π‡§√◊ÕË ßªíπô ¥‘π‡º“ ¿“æ‡¢’¬π∫πºπ—ß∂È” ™à«¬„Àâ π— π‘…∞“π ‰¥â«à“ºâ“ ¡—¬°àÕπª√–«—µ‘»“ µ√å¡’≈«¥≈“¬§≈â“¬°—∫≈“¬∫π ‡§√◊ÕË ßªíπô ¥‘π‡º“ ‡™àπ ≈“¬°âπÀÕ¬ ≈“¬À¬—°√Ÿªøíπª≈“ ≈“¬ ¢¥‡™◊Õ° ·≈– ≈“¬∑’¡Ë «â πµ—«§≈â“¬§≈◊πË À√◊Õ °âÕπ‡¡¶ ≈«¥≈“¬ ‡À≈à“π’§È ßæ—≤π“ ◊∫¡“„π ¡—¬ª√–«—µ»‘ “ µ√å ®π∂÷ß¬ÿ§∑’¡Ë πÿ…¬å √«¡°≈ÿà¡°—π‡ªìπ™π‡ºà“ √—∞ ·≈–Õ“≥“®—°√ ‚¥¬„™â≈“¬ºâ“ ‡ªìπ‡§√◊ËÕßÀ¡“¬¢Õß°≈ÿà¡·≈–· ¥ß§«“¡‡™◊ËÕ¢Õß°≈ÿà¡ ‡™àπ ≈“¬π“§ À√◊Õ ≈“¬ßŸ ≈“¬Àß å ≈“¬π°¬Ÿß ∑’Ë „™â‡ªìπ —≠≈—°…≥å ¢Õß™π‡ºà“„π ¡—¬ ÿ‚¢∑—¬ (æÿ∑∏»µ«√√…∑’Ë Ò˘-Ú) ´÷Ëß‡ªìπ ¬ÿ§∑’Ë»‘≈ª°√√¡µà“ßÊ ‡®√‘≠°â“«Àπâ“¡“° ‡©æ“–≈«¥≈“¬ 101

‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡„π«‘∂’‰∑¬

ÒÒ

‡™‘ß´‘πË °–‡À√’¬Ë ß „π®—ßÀ«—¥°“≠®π∫ÿ√’ µ°·µàß¥â«¬°“√ªí° ª√–¥—∫°√–®°·≈–≈Ÿ°ªí¥ Lower portion of karen robe from Kanchanaburi decorated with embroidery, pieces of mirrors, and beads.

¢«“ ºâ“™“«‰∑¬¿Ÿ‡¢“ ¬âÕ¡¥â«¬¬“ß‰¡âµ°·µàß¥â«¬ºâ“ ’ right Natural sap dyed hill-tribe fabric decorated with colored pieces of cloth.

ªŸπªíπô ≈“¬‡§√◊ÕË ßªíπô ¥‘π‡º“ · ¥ß„Àâ‡ÀÁπ«à“§π‰∑¬ª√–¥‘…∞å ≈«¥≈“¬·ª≈°Ê „À¡àÊ ¢÷πÈ ‡ªìπ®”π«π¡“° ∑—ßÈ ≈«¥≈“¬∑’¡Ë “ ®“°∏√√¡™“µ‘ ‡™àπ ≈“¬¥Õ°∫—« ≈“¬°â“π·¬àß ≈“¬°√–®—ß ¥Õ°‰¡â „∫‰¡â π° ª≈“ µ≈Õ¥®π≈«¥≈“¬∑’Ë¡“®“°§«“¡‡™◊ËÕ ·≈–®‘πµπ“°“√ ‰¥â·°à ≈“¬‡∑æπ¡ °‘π√’ Àß å §™ ’Àå ‡ªìπµâπ „π ¡—¬µàÕÊ ¡“ ≈«¥≈“¬‡À≈à“π’È∂◊Õ«à“‡ªìπ≈“¬™—Èπ Ÿß®÷ß„™â ‡ªìπ≈“¬ºâ“ ”À√—∫°…—µ√‘¬å·≈–√“™ ”π—° ‡™àπ ≈“¬‡∑æπ¡ π“§ π“ßÕ—ª √ Àß å ¡—°‰¡àª√“°Ø„πºâ“æ◊Èπ∫â“π Õ“®°≈à“« ‰¥â«à“≈«¥≈“¬ºâ“„πÕ¥’µ‡ªìπ‡§√◊ËÕß· ¥ß∞“π–∑“ß —ß§¡ ¢ÕßºŸ â «¡„ à¥«â ¬

°“√ √â“ß≈«¥≈“¬∫πºâ“æ◊Èπ∫â“π ≈«¥≈“¬∑’Ë ‡ °‘ ¥ ®“°°“√ªí ° Õ“®„™â ºâ “ æ◊È π À√◊ Õ ºâ “ ∑’Ë ¡’ ≈«¥≈“¬Õ¬Ÿà‡¥‘¡·≈â«π”«— ¥ÿÕ◊Ëπ‡ √‘¡‡¢â“‰ª ‡™àπ „™â ‰À¡À√◊Õ ¥â“¬µà“ß ’ªí°‡ √‘¡„Àâ‡ªìπ≈«¥≈“¬ ‰¥â·°à ºâ“ªí° ¡—¬‚∫√“≥ ºâ“ªí°¢Õß™“«‡¢“∑“ß¿“§‡Àπ◊Õ À√◊Õ„™âºâ“µà“ß ’µà“ß™π‘¥ ‡¬Á∫µ‘¥°—π‡¢â“‡ªìπ≈«¥≈“¬µà“ßÊ ‡™àπ °“√„™â‡»…ºâ“‰À¡ ’ ¥Ê ‡¬Á∫µ‘¥∫π‡ ◊ÈÕŒ’¢Õß§π‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬≈“«‚´àß ·≈– °“√„™âºâ“µà“ß ’‡¬Á∫‡ √‘¡≈ß∫πºâ“∫“µ‘° À√◊Õºâ“‡¢’¬π¥â«¬ ¢’Èº÷Èß ·≈â«¬âÕ¡§√“¡¢Õß™“«‡¢“ πÕ°®“°π’È Õ“®„™â≈Ÿ°ªí¥ ¡ÿ° ªï°·¡≈ß∑—∫ µ°·µàß‡æ‘Ë¡‡µ‘¡„Àâ «¬ß“¡¬‘Ëß¢÷Èπ Õ¬à“ßºâ“ ¢Õß™“«°–‡À√’¬Ë ß ·≈–™“«‡¢“∫“ß‡ºà“∑“ß¿“§‡Àπ◊Õ ‡ªìπµâπ ≈«¥≈“¬∑’Ë‡°‘¥®“°°“√∑Õ ‡ªìπ°“√ √â“ß≈«¥≈“¬„π ‡π◊ÈÕºâ“ ‚¥¬∑Õ„ÀâÀπâ“ºâ“‡ªìπ≈«¥≈“¬®“°°“√¬°·≈–¢à¡ ‡ âπ¬◊π‡ âπæÿàß∑’Ë ‰¡àª√°µ‘ ‡™àπ °“√∑Õºâ“¬° ºâ“¡—¥À¡’Ë ·≈– ≈«¥≈“¬∑’Ë‡°‘¥®“°°“√‡ √‘¡‡ âπæÿàßæ‘‡»…‡¢â“‰ª ‰¥â·°à ºâ“¢‘¥ ®° ≈â«ß œ≈œ

ÒÚ

102

ºâ“¬° ºâ“∑’∑Ë Õ„Àâ‡°‘¥≈«¥≈“¬„π‡π◊ÕÈ ºâ“‚¥¬µ√ß ¥â«¬°“√ ¬°‡ âπ¬◊π∫“ß‡ âπ¢÷Èπ ·≈–¢à¡À√◊Õ°¥≈ß‰¡à‡ªìπ√–‡∫’¬∫ ‡™à π ‡¥’ ¬ «°— ∫ °“√ “π‡ ◊Ë Õ ≈”·æπÀ√◊ Õ ‡ ◊Ë Õ °√–®Ÿ ¥ „Àâ ‡ ªì π ≈«¥≈“¬ ≈«¥≈“¬∑’Ëª√“°Ø∫π‡§√◊ËÕß®—° “π¥—ß°≈à“«‡°‘¥ ®“°°“√¬°·≈–¢à¡µÕ°‡ âπ¬◊π‰¡à‡ªìπ√–‡∫’¬∫ ≈«¥≈“¬¢Õß ºâ“¬°°Á‡°‘¥¢÷πÈ ¥â«¬π—¬‡¥’¬«°—π ≈“¬ºâ“¬°¡—°πŸπ¢÷πÈ ®“°‡π◊ÕÈ ºâ“ ºâ“¬°∑’Ë¡’™◊ËÕ‡ ’¬ß‡ªìπ∑’Ë√Ÿâ®—°°—π¥’§◊Õ ºâ“¬°≈â“ππ“ ºâ“¬° æÿ¡‡√’¬ß ºâ“∑Õ¬°¥Õ°‡°“–¬Õ ºâ“¬°‡¡◊Õßπ§√»√’∏√√¡√“™ À√◊Õ ºâ“¬°‡¡◊Õßπ§√ ‡ªìπµâπ ºâ“¡—¥À¡’Ë (ikat) ºâ“∑’∑Ë Õ¥â«¬°“√¬âÕ¡ ’‡ âπ¥â“¬À√◊Õ‰À¡ ¥â«¬°“√¡—¥¬âÕ¡ (tie dye) ‚¥¬„™â‡™◊Õ°°≈â«¬ À√◊Õ¿“¬À≈—ß „™â‡™◊Õ°ø“ß‰π≈àÕπÀ√◊Õæ≈“ µ‘°ÕàÕπºŸ°¡—¥√—¥∫“ß à«π¢Õß ‡ âπΩÑ“¬À√◊Õ‰À¡ ‡æ◊ËÕ‰¡à „Àâ ’¬âÕ¡´÷¡µ‘¥ à«π∑’Ë¡—¥‰«â °“√

ºâ“¡—¥À¡’Ë ≈«¥≈“¬∑’Ë‡°‘¥®“°°“√¬âÕ¡¥â“¬ À√◊Õ‡ âπ‰À¡„Àâ‡ªìπ≈“¬ ·≈â«®÷ß∑Õ‡ªìπºâ“ A “matmi” fabric.

¡—¥¬âÕ¡‡ªìπµ—«°”Àπ¥≈«¥≈“¬·≈– ’ π— ¢Õßºâ“ À“°≈«¥≈“¬ ≈—∫´—∫´âÕπ°ÁµÕâ ß¡—¥∂’Ë À“°µâÕß°“√ ’ π— ´—∫´âÕπ·æ√«æ√“« ¡“°°Á®–µâÕß¡—¥·≈â«¬âÕ¡À≈“¬§√—Èßµ“¡µ”·Àπàß ’ ºŸâ¡—¥®– µâÕß¡’§«“¡‡¢â“„®·≈–¡’§«“¡™”π“≠∑—Èß¥â“π√Ÿª·∫∫¢Õß ≈«¥≈“¬ ·≈–À≈—°°“√º ¡ ’ ®÷ß®–‰¥â≈«¥≈“¬∑’Ë «¬ß“¡ ¥â«¬ ’ —πµ“¡∑’ËµâÕß°“√ ¥â«¬‡Àµÿπ’È °“√∑Õºâ“¡—¥À¡’Ë®ß÷ ‡ªìπ∑’Ë√Ÿâ·≈–¬Õ¡√—∫°—π«à“ ‡ªìπ°“√∑Õºâ“∑’µË Õâ ßÕ“»—¬∑—°…–§«“¡ “¡“√∂ Ÿß¬‘ßË Õ¬à“ßÀπ÷ßË ‡æ√“–µâÕß„™â‡∑§π‘§«‘∏’°“√¬ÿàß¬“°´—∫´âÕπ¡“° °«à“®–∑Õ„Àâ ‰¥â·µà≈–≈“¬ °«à“®–‰¥â‡ªìπºâ“·µà≈–º◊πµâÕß„™â‡«≈“·≈–§«“¡ Õ¥∑π¡“° ‡©æ“–°“√∑Õ‡æ’¬ßÕ¬à“ß‡¥’¬« ‚¥¬‰¡à‡°’Ë¬«°—∫ ¢—ÈπµÕπµà“ßÊ µ—Èß·µà°“√‡≈’È¬ßµ—«‰À¡ “«‡ âπ‰À¡ øÕ° ¡—¥ ¬âÕ¡ œ≈œ ©–π—πÈ °“√∑Õºâ“¡—¥À¡’Ë‚¥¬∑—«Ë ‰ª®÷ß¡—°π‘¬¡„™â ‰À¡

´÷ßË ‡ªìπ«— ¥ÿ∑¥’Ë ¡’ §’ ≥ÿ ¿“æ·≈–§ÿ≥§à“ Ÿß ·µà°¡Á ∫’ “ß∑âÕß∂‘πË ∑’∑Ë Õ ¡—¥À¡’¥Ë «â ¬ΩÑ“¬ ‡™àπ ¡—¥À¡’ΩË “Ñ ¬∑’∫Ë “â πÀπÕß‡¢◊ÕË π™â“ß µ”∫≈ ∑à“ Õß§Õπ Õ”‡¿Õ‡¡◊Õß ®—ßÀ«—¥¡À“ “√§“¡ ´÷Ëß¬âÕ¡¥â«¬ ’§√“¡‡æ’¬ß ’‡¥’¬« °“√∑Õºâ“¡—¥À¡’µË Õâ ß¡’§«“¡Õ¥∑π·≈–„™â‡∑§π‘§ Ÿß ™à“ß ¡—¥À¡’Ë®÷ß‰¥â√—∫°“√¬°¬àÕß«à“‡ªìπºŸâ∑’Ë¡’§«“¡ “¡“√∂ Ÿß°«à“ ™à“ß∑Õºâ“∑—Ë«‰ª ‡æ√“–°“√¡—¥‡ âπ‡§√◊ÕÀ√◊Õ‡ âπ¬◊ππ—ÈπµâÕß °”Àπ¥≈“¬·≈– ’ ‰«â≈à«ßÀπâ“ ‚¥¬‰¡à ‰¥â√à“ß·∫∫·µàÕ¬à“ß„¥ ‡¡◊ËÕ ◊∫ÀŸ°‡ªìπ‡ âπ‡§√◊ÕÀ√◊Õ‡ âπ¬◊π·≈â« ‰À¡∑’Ë¡—¥¬âÕ¡ ®–¬—ß‰¡à‡°‘¥‡ªìπ≈«¥≈“¬„Àâ‡ÀÁπ ®–ª√“°Ø≈«¥≈“¬°ÁµàÕ‡¡◊ËÕ π”‡ âπæÿàß¡“ Õ¥∑Õ„Àâ‡ªìπ√Ÿª∏√√¡µ“¡§«“¡§‘¥∑’Ë‡ªìπ π“¡∏√√¡ °“√∑Õºâ“¡—¥À¡’ËµâÕß∑Õ„Àâ‡ âπ‡§√◊Õ·≈–‡ âπæÿàß ∑’Ë¬âÕ¡ ’·≈â«ª√– “πµ√ß°—π∑ÿ°‡ âπµ“¡®—ßÀ«–∑’Ë¡—¥¬âÕ¡‰«â 103

‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡„π«‘∂’‰∑¬

ÒÛ

ºâ“¢‘¥ Õ’ “π

ºâ“µ’π®°

“Khit” fabric from the Northeast.

A woven lower border design called “tinjok.”

ÒÙ

104

¢Õß·µà≈–≈«¥≈“¬ ‰¡à‡™àππ—Èπ°Á®–‰¡à‡ªìπ≈«¥≈“¬µ“¡∑’Ë °”Àπ¥‰«â ∑ÿ°§√—Èß∑’Ë∑Õ‡ âπæÿàß·µà≈–‡ âπ®–µâÕß¢¬—∫‡ âπ‰À¡ „Àâ∂Ÿ°®—ßÀ«–≈“¬°—∫‡ âπ‡§√◊Õ∑ÿ°‡ âπ ©–π—Èπ°“√∑Õºâ“¡—¥À¡’Ë ®÷ß¡’¢¥’ ®”°—¥∑’µË Õâ ß∑Õ¥â«¬ÀŸ°À√◊Õ°’Ë ¥â«¬«‘∏æ’ ßÿà ‡∑à“π—πÈ ®–∑Õ ¥â«¬°’Ë°√–µÿ°·∫∫æ—≤π“„À¡à ‰¥â¬“°¡“°À√◊Õ∑Õ‰¡à ‰¥â‡≈¬ ‡æ√“–®–µâÕß§Õ¬¢¬—∫‡ âπæÿàß„Àâµ√ß®—ßÀ«–∑’Ë¡—¥≈«¥≈“¬°—∫ ‡ âπ¬◊π ™à“ß∑Õ®÷ßµâÕß¡’§«“¡™”π“≠‡ªìπæ‘‡»… ºâ“¢‘¥ ºâ“∑’ Ë √â“ß≈«¥≈“¬‚¥¬°“√‡°Á∫‡¢“À√◊Õµ–°Õ‡ âπ¬◊π „Àâµà“ß‰ª®“°ºâ“æ◊Èπ ·≈â«‡æ‘Ë¡‡ âπæÿàßæ‘‡»…‡¢â“‰ª ‚¥¬ æÿàß®“°√‘¡ºâ“¥â“πÀπ÷Ëß‰ª¬—ß√‘¡ºâ“Õ’°¥â“πÀπ÷Ëß ®÷ß∑”„Àâ‡°‘¥ ≈«¥≈“¬´È”Ê ®π‡µÁ¡Àπâ“ºâ“ π‘¬¡∑Õ°—π¡“°„π∑“ß¿“§ µ–«—πÕÕ°‡©’¬ß‡Àπ◊Õ·≈–¿“§‡Àπ◊Õ ºâ“®° ºâ“∑’ Ë √â“ß≈«¥≈“¬‚¥¬°“√‡æ‘¡Ë ‡ âπæÿßà æ‘‡»…‡¢â“‰ª ‡ªìπ™à«ßÊ „™â¢π‡¡àπ ‰¡â À√◊Õª≈“¬π‘È«ß—¥ (®°) ‡ âπ¬◊π¢÷Èπ ·≈â« Õ¥‡ âπæÿßà æ‘‡»…‡¢â“‰ª∑”„Àâ‡°‘¥≈«¥≈“¬ ≈—∫ ’‡ªìπ™à«ßÊ µà“ß°—∫ºâ“¢‘¥∑’Ë „™â‡ âπæÿßà æ‘‡»… ’‡¥’¬«µ≈Õ¥Àπâ“ºâ“ °“√∑Õºâ“ ®°¡—°∑Õ°≈—∫¥â“πÀπâ“ºâ“‰«â¢â“ß≈à“ß‡æ◊ËÕ„Àâ®°‰¥â –¥«° «‘∏’ √â“ß≈«¥≈“¬∑’§Ë ≈â“¬°—ππ’È „π¿“§‡Àπ◊Õ‡√’¬° ‡°“– À√◊Õ ≈â«ß

ºâ“≈“¬Õ¬à“ß ºâ“∑’Ë™à“ß‰∑¬ ¡—¬µâπ√—µπ‚° ‘π∑√åÕÕ°·∫∫≈“¬ ·≈â« àß‰ª„Àâ™à“ß∑Õºâ“„πª√–‡∑»Õ‘π‡¥’¬ æ‘¡æå≈ß∫πºâ“‡æ◊ËÕπ”‡¢â“¡“„™â „π√“™ ”π—°‰∑¬ ‚¥¬„™âºâ“¢“«∑’Ë´—° ®πÀ¡¥·ªÑß·≈â« «“ß¢÷ß„Àâµ÷ß ∑“À¡÷° ∫π·¡àæ‘¡æå°¥≈ß∫πºâ“µàÕÊ °—π‰ª ®π≈“¬‡µÁ¡º◊π ·≈â«¬âÕ¡ ’ À“°µâÕß°“√ „Àâ¡’ ’Õ◊ËπÊ °Á·µâ¡≈ß‰ªÀ≈—ß®“°¬âÕ¡·≈â« ®“°π—Èπ„™â‡∫’È¬¢—¥™—°‡ß“ ºâ“∑’Ëπ‘¬¡ —Ëß¡“„™â ‰¥â·°à ºâ“æ◊Èπ ’ °≈“ßº◊π‡ªìπ ’·¥ß À√◊Õ¢“« ™“¬ºâ“¡’≈“¬°√«¬‡™‘ßÀ≈“¬™—Èπ ºâ“∑âÕß≈“¬ °≈“ßºâ“∑”‡ªìπ≈«¥≈“¬ ‡µÁ¡∑—Èßº◊π ¡’∑—Èß™π‘¥∑’Ë™“¬¡’≈“¬°√«¬ ™—Èπ‡¥’¬« ·≈–™π‘¥∑’Ë™“¬·≈–‡™‘ß¡’≈“¬ °√«¬√Õ∫ ≈«¥≈“¬∑’Ëπ‘¬¡‰¥â·°à ≈“¬æ√À¡ ’ËÀπâ“ æÿà¡¢â“«∫‘≥±å ‡∑æπ¡ °â“π¢¥ °‘ππ√ ·≈–≈“¬æ√√≥æƒ°…“ ºâ“æ‘¡æåª√–‡¿∑π’È¡’‡æ’¬ß Ú ∂÷ß Û ’ ‰¥â·°à ’¥” ’·¥ß ·≈– ’‡À≈◊Õß „π ¡—¬√—™°“≈∑’Ë Ú ™à“ß‰∑¬¡—°π”¡“ ‡¢’¬π ’‡æ‘Ë¡‡µ‘¡„Àâ «¬ß“¡¬‘Ëß¢÷Èπ ‡√’¬° ºâ“≈“¬‡¢’¬π ’ ∫“ß∑’‡¢’¬π∑Õß µ“¡¢Õ∫≈“¬ ‡√’¬° ºâ“‡¢’¬π∑Õß A special kind of hand-printed fabric called “pha lai yang” which Thai artists in the early Rattanakosin period designed and sent to India to be woven. Originally, they came in a few colors: black, yellow, and red. More colors, including gold accents, were later added during the reign of King Rama II.

µà“ß°—π∑’Ë°“√∑Õ≈â«ß®–ºŸ°‡ âπæÿàßæ‘‡»…‡¢â“°—∫‡ âπ¬◊π‡æ◊ËÕ ¬÷¥‡ âπæÿàß·µà≈–™à«ß °“√∑Õ≈—°…≥–π’Èπ‘¬¡∑Õ°—π¡“°„π °≈ÿà¡™“«‰∑¬≈◊ÈÕ ºâ“®°‡ªìπºâ“∑’¡Ë ≈’ «¥≈“¬ ’ π— ·æ√«æ√“« «¬ß“¡ ®÷ßπ‘¬¡ „™â‡ªìπ à«πµ°·µàß¡“°°«à“∑’®Ë –∑Õ‡ªìπºâ“º◊π ‡™àπ „™âµ°·µàß µ’π´‘Ëπ ‡√’¬°«à“ ´‘Ëπµ’π®° À√◊Õ„™â∑Õ ≈—∫°—∫≈«¥≈“¬¢‘¥·≈– ¡—¥À¡’Ë‡ªìπµ—«´‘Ëπ ≈«¥≈“¬∑’Ë‡°‘¥®“°°“√‡¢’¬π·≈–¬âÕ¡ ‚∫√“≥„™â ‰¢ —µ«å ¬“ß‰¡â À√◊Õ¢’Èº÷Èß‡¢’¬π‡ªìπ≈«¥≈“¬∫πº◊πºâ“·≈â«¬âÕ¡ ’ ’®– µ‘¥ à«π∑’‡Ë ªìπ‡π◊ÕÈ ºâ“·µà ‰¡àµ¥‘ ≈«¥≈“¬∑’‡Ë ¢’¬π‰«â ‡¡◊ÕË ·Àâß·≈â« π”‰ªµâ¡À√◊Õ´—°„Àâ ‘Ëß∑’Ë‡¢’¬π‰«âÀ≈ÿ¥ÕÕ°®–ª√“°Ø≈«¥≈“¬ ∫πº◊πºâ“ °“√ √â“ß≈«¥≈“¬«‘∏’π’È “¡“√∂¬âÕ¡‡æ’¬ß ’‡¥’¬« À√◊Õ¬âÕ¡´âÕπ∑—∫°—πÀ≈“¬ ’°Á ‰¥â ‚¥¬„™â·¡àæ‘¡æå®ÿà¡¢’Èº÷Èß°¥ ≈ß∫πºâ“·∑π°“√‡¢’¬π ‡™àπ ºâ“∫“µ‘° (batik) ¢ÕßÕ‘π‚¥π’‡´’¬ À√◊Õ ºâ“ª“‡µä– ∑“ß¿“§„µâ ºâ“æ‘¡æå·≈–ºâ“‡¢’¬π≈“¬ √â“ß≈«¥≈“¬¥â«¬°“√æ‘¡æå≈“¬ ≈ß∫π‡π◊ÈÕºâ“ —ππ‘…∞“π«à“«‘∏’æ‘¡æå≈“¬ºâ“π’È¡’¡“·µà ¡—¬ °àÕπª√–«—µ‘»“ µ√å ‡æ√“–æ∫≈Ÿ°°≈‘Èß¥‘π‡º“ ”À√—∫°≈‘Èß ’

∑’Ë·À≈àßÕ“√¬∏√√¡°àÕπª√–«—µ‘»“ µ√å∫â“π‡™’¬ß Õ”‡¿Õ ÀπÕßÀ“π ®—ßÀ«—¥Õÿ¥√∏“π’ °“√ √â“ß≈«¥≈“¬¥â«¬°“√æ‘¡æåπ’È ‰¡àª√“°Ø„πºâ“æ◊πÈ ∫â“π ¢Õß‰∑¬ ¡’·µàºâ“æ‘¡æå∑’Ë —Ëß¡“®“°ª√–‡∑»Õ‘π‡¥’¬„π ¡—¬ √—µπ‚° ‘π∑√å∑’Ë‡√’¬° ºâ“≈“¬Õ¬à“ß ´÷Ëß‡ªìπºâ“∑’Ë™à“ß‰∑¬ àß ≈«¥≈“¬‰ª„Àâ™à“ß∑Õºâ“„πÕ‘π‡¥’¬æ‘¡æå ·≈â« àß°≈—∫‡¢â“¡“ „™â „π√“™ ”π—°‰∑¬ ¿“¬À≈—ßºâ“™π‘¥π’È ‰¥â√∫— §«“¡π‘¬¡¡“°¢÷πÈ ™à“ß™“«Õ‘π‡¥’¬®÷ß‡¢’¬π≈“¬‡≈’¬π·∫∫≈“¬‰∑¬·≈â«æ‘¡æå ‡ªìπºâ“≈“¬‰∑¬ àß‡¢â“¡“¢“¬‡√’¬° ºâ“≈“¬πÕ°Õ¬à“ß µàÕ¡“ ‰¥â·æ√àÀ≈“¬‰ª Ÿà™“«∫â“π ‚¥¬‡©æ“–ºŸâÀ≠‘ßπ”¡“πÿàß‡ªìπ ºâ“‚®ß°√–‡∫π·≈–ºâ“∂ÿß °√–∑—Ëß¡’ºŸâµ—Èß‚√ßß“πæ‘¡æåºâ“¢÷Èπ „πª√–‡∑»‰∑¬ ≈«¥≈“¬ºâ“∑’Ë „™â‡ªìπ‡§√◊ÕË ßπÿßà Àà¡¢Õß§π‰∑¬¥—ß°≈à“«·≈â« ‡ªìπ»‘≈ª–ª√–¬ÿ°µå (applied art) ∑’Ë‡°‘¥®“°§«“¡§‘¥ √â“ß √√§å·≈–¿Ÿ¡‘ªí≠≠“¢Õß§π‰∑¬∑’Ë™à«¬„Àâ‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡ ¡’ ’ —π·≈–≈«¥≈“¬ß¥ß“¡ ‡ªìπ‡Õ°≈—°…≥å∑’Ë·µ°µà“ß‰ª®“° ‡ ◊ÈÕºâ“Õ“¿√≥å¢Õß™“µ‘Õ◊ËπÊ 105

‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡„π«‘∂’‰∑¬

Òı

ºâ“≈“¬πÕ°Õ¬à“ß ‡ªìπºâ“≈“¬ ∑’Ë™à“ß™“«Õ‘π‡¥’¬‡¢’¬π‡≈’¬π·∫∫≈“¬ºâ“ ∑’Ë™à“ßÀ≈«ß àß‰ª„Àâ ≈«¥≈“¬®÷ß¡—° ·¢Áß°√–¥â“ß ºâ“™π‘¥π’È àß‡¢â“¡“¢“¬ ‡ªìπºâ“πÿàß ”À√—∫ “¡—≠™π·∑πºâ“¥” ¬âÕ¡¡–‡°≈◊Õ∑’Ëπÿàß°—πÕ¬Ÿà°àÕπ ºâ“≈“¬πÕ°Õ¬à“ß ¡’∑—Èß™π‘¥¡’‡™‘ß ·≈–‰¡à¡’‡™‘ß µàÕ¡“‰¥â√—∫§«“¡π‘¬¡ „™âπÿàß∑—Èß‚®ß°√–‡∫π·≈–ºâ“∂ÿß °—π·æ√àÀ≈“¬ ¡’ºŸâµ—Èß‚√ßæ‘¡æåºâ“≈“¬ ¢÷Èπ„πª√–‡∑»‰∑¬ ‡¡◊ËÕ æ.».ÚÙ˜ı æ‘¡æå¥â«¬·¡àæ‘¡æå‚≈À–‡ªìπ≈“¬‰∑¬ §≈â“¬≈“¬Õ¬à“ß ¡—°‡√’¬° ºâ“≈“¬ À√◊Õ ºâ“≈“¬‰∑¬

«‘∏’πÿàßºâ“¢Õß§π‰∑¬„πÕ¥’µ ·∫àß‡ªìπ Û ·∫∫§◊Õ πÿàß‚®ß°√–‡∫π „™âºâ“¬“«‡∑à“°—∫ºâ“∂ÿß Õßº◊π ¡â«π™“¬¢â“ß Àπâ“‡¢â“À“µ—«‡À¡◊Õπß«ß™â“ß·≈â«µ≈∫≈Õ¥ À«à“ß¢“‰ª‡ÀπÁ∫‰«â¢â“ßÀ≈—ß À“°¥÷ßºâ“ ¢÷Èπ¡“ Ÿß‡Àπ◊Õ‡¢à“°Á‡√’¬° πÿàßºâ“À¬—°√—Èß °“√πÿàß‚®ß°√–‡∫π πÿàß°—π∑—Èß™“¬À≠‘ß ºŸâÀ≠‘ß¡—°§“¥¥â«¬‡¢Á¡¢—¥µ“¡∞“π– ‡™àπ ‡¢Á¡¢—¥Àπ—ß ‡ß‘π π“° ∑Õß πÿàß®’∫ §◊Õ®’∫ºâ“¥â“πÀπâ“ ∑∫À≈“¬Ê ™—Èπ‡¢â“À“µ—« ™“«∫â“π∑—Ë«‰ª‰¡à„§√àπÿàß‡æ√“–¬ÿàß¬“° πÿàß≈Õ¬™“¬ ‡ªìπ°“√πÿàßºâ“µ“¡ ∫“¬ ¢ÕßºŸâ™“¬ ‰¡à¡â«πºâ“¥â“πÀπâ“ ¢÷Èπ¡“‡ÀπÁ∫À“ßÕ¬à“ß‚®ß°√–‡∫π ‡ªìπ°“√πÿàßßà“¬Ê ‰¡à ÿ¿“æ æ«°πÿàß≈Õ¬™“¬®÷ß¡—°‡ªìπæ«°π—°‡≈ß „πÕ¥’µ «‘∏’πÿàßºâ“¢Õß “¡—≠™π °—∫™π™—πÈ Ÿß¡—°‰¡àµ“à ß°—π ®–·µ°µà“ß∑’Ë‡π◊ÈÕºâ“·≈–¡Ÿ≈§à“¢Õßºâ“ π—∫‡æ≈“ §◊Õ°“ß‡°ß¢“ —Èπ ‚∫√“≥„™â‡ªìπ°“ß‡°ß™—πÈ „π ‚¥¬πÿàß‚®ß°√–‡∫π∑—∫ ¡—°„™â„πÀ¡Ÿà™π™—Èπ Ÿß

ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡ æ◊Èπ∫â“π §π‰∑¬„πÕ¥’µ·µàß°“¬Õ¬à“ßßà“¬Ê Õ¬à“ß∑’Ë‡√’¬°«à“ πÿàß º◊πÀà¡º◊πºŸ™â “¬¡’º“â πÿßà ”À√—∫ª°ªî¥√à“ß°“¬∑àÕπ≈à“ßº◊π‡¥’¬« ∑àÕπ∫π‡ª≈◊Õ¬ À“°‡ªìπÀ≠‘ß¡’∑—Èßºâ“πÿàß·≈–ºâ“Àà¡ ≈“≈Ÿ·∫√å ‰¥â∫—π∑÷°‡√◊ËÕß°“√·µàß°“¬¢Õß™“« ¬“¡ ¡—¬Õ¬ÿ∏¬“‰«â«à“ ç..§«“¡·µ°µà“ß¢Õß°“√πÿàßÀà¡√–À«à“ßºŸâÀ≠‘ß°—∫ºŸâ™“¬°Á§◊Õ æ«°ºŸâÀ≠‘ßπÿàßºâ“µ“¡§«“¡¬“«¢Õßº◊π «ß√Õ∫µ—«‡™àπ‡¥’¬« °—∫ºŸâ™“¬ ·µàºŸâÀ≠‘ßª≈àÕ¬™“¬∑“ß¥â“π°«â“ß ‡≈’¬π·∫∫ °√–‚ª√ßÕ¬à“ß·§∫Ê „Àâ™“¬µ°≈ß¡“§√÷Ëß·¢âß à«πºŸâ™“¬ π—Èπ™—°™“¬ºâ“¢â“ßÀπ÷Ëß´÷Ëß‡¢“ª≈àÕ¬„Àâ¬“«°«à“Õ’°¢â“ßÀπ÷Ëß ≈Õ¥À«à“ß¢“·≈â«‡ÀπÁ∫‰«â¥“â πÀ≈—ß ‚¥¬§“¥‡¢Á¡¢—¥∑—∫ §≈â“¬ ®–‡≈’¬π·∫∫ π—∫‡æ≈“ ·∫∫‚∫√“≥¢Õß‡√“ à«π™“¬ºâ“Õ’° ¢â“ßÀπ÷Ëßπ—ÈπÀâÕ¬Õ¬Ÿà¢â“ßÀπâ“ (™“¬æ°) ·≈–‚¥¬∑’Ë‡¢“‰¡à¡’ °√–‡ªÜ“∑’ºË “â πÿßà °Á„™â™“¬æ°π—πÈ ·≈ (µ≈∫¢÷πÈ ‰ª) ÀàÕ≈à«¡À¡“° ∑”πÕß‡¥’¬«°—∫∑’Ë‡√“¢¡«¥‡°Á∫ ‘Ëß‰√ ‘ËßÀπ÷Ëß‰«â„πºâ“‡™Á¥Àπâ“

Òˆ

106

©–π—Èπ ≈“ß∑’‡¢“°Áπÿàßºâ“ Õßº◊π´âÕπ∑—∫°—π ‡æ◊ËÕ„Àâº◊π∫π¥Ÿ ‡√’¬∫√âÕ¬ ...πÕ°®“°ºâ“πÿàß·≈â« ºŸâÀ≠‘ß°Áª≈àÕ¬µ—«≈àÕπ®âÕπ ‡æ√“–æ«°π“ß¡‘‰¥â «¡ ‡ ◊ÕÈ ™—πÈ „π¡— ≈‘π (‡À¡◊ÕπÕ¬à“ßæ«° ºŸâ™“¬) ™—Ë«·µà§π¡—Ëß¡’‡∑à“π—Èπ∑’Ë„™â ‰∫Àà¡ ≈“ß∑’°Áªí¥™“¬ ‰∫ ‡©’¬ß‰ª§≈ÿ¡µâπ·¢π‡¢â“‰«â ·µàÕ“°“√∑’Ë ÿ¿“æ¢Õßπ“ß°Á§◊Õ „™âµÕπ°≈“ßº◊π §“¥¢πÕß·≈â« Õ¥√—°·√â¡“ª°∂—π‡¢â“‰«â ·≈â« µ≈∫™“¬ ‰∫∑—ßÈ Õß¥â“π –æ—° ‰À≈à‰ª∑‘ßÈ ™“¬Õ¬Ÿ∑à “ß‡∫◊ÕÈ ßÀ≈—ß (Àà¡µ–·∫ß¡“π)..é Û °“√πÿàßÀà¡¢Õß “¡—≠™π™“« ¬“¡ ‡™àππ’È ¬—ß ◊∫¡“„π ¡—¬√—µπ‚° ‘π∑√å ç‡π◊ËÕß®“°™’«‘µª√–®” «—π¢Õß√“…Æ√™“¬µâÕß∑”ß“π„™â·√ßß“π„π∑’Ëπ“ «π À√◊Õ ‰√à À√◊Õ∂â“Õ¬Ÿà„πªÉ“°ÁµâÕßÕÕ°≈à“ —µ«å À“¢ÕßªÉ“ ∂â“Õ¬Ÿà°—∫ ∫â“π°ÁÀ“∫πÈ” µ”¢â“« ·∫°¢ÕßÀπ—° °“√·µàß°“¬®÷ß¡’ ≈—°…≥–∑–¡—¥∑–·¡ß °≈à“«§◊Õ πÿßà ºâ“™‘πÈ ‡¥’¬«¥â«¬«‘∏’ ∂°‡¢¡√ ‡ªìπ°“√πÿàß‚®ß ·µà∂°„Àâ —Èπ¢÷Èπ‡Àπ◊Õ‡¢à“ ‡æ◊ËÕ –¥«°„π°“√

°“√·µàß°“¬¢ÕßºŸâ™“¬ ‡™◊ÕÈ “¬‰∑¬¬«π „π®‘µ√°√√¡Ω“ºπ—ßÕÿ‚∫ ∂ «—¥ ¡ÿÀª√–¥‘…∞“√“¡ µ”∫≈ «π¥Õ°‰¡â Õ”‡¿Õ‡ “‰Àâ ®—ßÀ«—¥ √–∫ÿ√’ The depiction of Thai Yuan long robes in the mural paintings in the ordination hall at Wat Samuha Praditharam in Amphoe Sao Hai, Saraburi.

´â“¬ °“√πÿàß´‘Ëπ¢Õß µ√’ ‡™◊ÕÈ “¬‰∑¬¬«π „π®‘µ√°√√¡Ω“ºπ—ßÕÿ‚∫ ∂ «—¥ ¡ÿÀª√–¥‘…∞“√“¡ µ”∫≈ «π¥Õ°‰¡â Õ”‡¿Õ‡ “‰Àâ ®—ßÀ«—¥ √–∫ÿ√’ left The dressing style of the Thai Yuan females as recorded in the mural paintings in the ordination hall at Wat Samuha Praditharam in Amphoe Sao Hai, Saraburi.

ÕÕ°·√ß ‰¡à «¡‡ ◊ÈÕ ‚æ°ºâ“∑’Ë»’√…– ‰¡à «¡√Õß‡∑â“ ∂â“Õ¬Ÿà ∫â“π‰¡àµâÕß∑”ß“π°Áπÿàßºâ“≈Õ¬™“¬ À√◊Õπÿàß‚ √àß¡’ºâ“§“¥æÿß „πƒ¥Ÿ‡∑»°“≈ß“πæ‘∏’ ‡™àπ æ‘∏’‡π◊ËÕß¥â«¬™’«‘µª√–®”«—π∑“ß æÿ∑∏»“ π“ ´÷Ëß®—¥¢÷Èπ„π«—¥Õ—π‡ªìπ»Ÿπ¬å°≈“ß¢ÕßÀ¡Ÿà∫â“π À√◊Õ™ÿ¡™π À√◊Õ„π§√Õ∫§√—« „π‡«≈“‡™àππ’È ™“«∫â“π®–¡“ æ∫ª– ¡“§¡√à«¡°—π °“√·µàß°“¬®÷ß‡√’¬∫√âÕ¬æ‘∂’æ‘∂—π¢÷Èπ ¡—°πÿàß‚®ß°√–‡∫π‡ªìπºâ“·æ√ ’µà“ßÊ ·≈–Àà¡ºâ“§≈âÕß§Õ ª≈àÕ¬™“¬¬“«∑—Èß Õß¢â“ß‰«â¥â“πÀπâ“ À√◊Õ§≈âÕß‰À≈à∑‘Èß™“¬ ‰«â¥â“πÀπâ“ À√◊Õæ“¥‰À≈à‰«â ∑—¥¥Õ°‰¡â ∫ÿÀ√’Ë À√◊Õ¬“¥¡‰«â∑’Ë ÀŸ º—¥Àπâ“¥â«¬·ªÑßÀÕ¡ à«π∑√ßº¡°Áµ—¥º¡ªï°À√◊Õµ—¥º¡ ·∫∫ºŸâ™“¬∑—Ë«‰ª Õ¬à“ß‰√°Áµ“¡™“¬ “¡—≠™π∑’Ë¡’∞“π–∑“ß ‡»√…∞°‘®¥’ ‡™àπ ∑”°“√§â“ °Á·µàßµ—«¥â«¬‡ ◊ÈÕºâ“·æ√æ√√≥ ™—Èπ¥’ ‡©æ“–ºâ“πÿàß∑Õ∑’ËÀ“´◊ÈÕ‰¥â®“° ‘π§â“µà“ßª√–‡∑» À√◊Õ ‰¡à°Á®“°™à“ßΩï¡◊Õ„π«—ßÀ≈«ß µ√’™“«∫â“π‚¥¬∑—«Ë ‰ª°Áπßÿà ºâ“®’∫ Àà¡ ‰∫ ∂â“‡«≈“∑”ß“π Àπ—°°Á„™âÀà¡·∫∫µ–·∫ß¡“π ª≈àÕ¬™“¬ À√◊ÕºŸ°™“¬ ∂â“‡ªìπ ‡«≈“Õ¬Ÿ∫à “â π°ÁÀ¡à ‡ÀπÁ∫Àπâ“·∫∫ºâ“·∂∫ „π‡«≈“ÕÕ°®“°∫â“π ®÷ß„™â ‰∫‡©’¬ß ·≈–„πƒ¥ŸÀπ“«°ÁÀà¡ºâ“·æ√ À√◊Õ·æ√‡æ≈“– §≈ÿ¡‰À≈à ’¢Õßºâ“™“«∫â“π¡—°‡ªìπ ’¥”À√◊Õ ’‡¢’¬«µ–æÿàπ ºâ“Àà¡ ’¢“« µ—¥º¡ªï° ∂â“‡ªìπ§π«—¬ “« º¡µ—¥ —Èπ‡ªìπ·∫∫ ¥Õ°°√–∑ÿà¡ ·≈â«ª≈àÕ¬∑â“¬¬“«ßÕπ∂÷ß∫à“ ∂â“‡ªìπºŸâ„À≠à µ—¥º¡ªï°·∫∫‚°π∑â“¬∑Õ¬ —πÈ „π°√≥’∑‡’Ë ªìπ µ√’·µàßß“π·≈â« ‡«≈“Õ¬Ÿà∫â“πÕ“®®–‰¡àÀà¡ ‰∫ πÕ°®“°π’È≈—°…≥–ºâ“πÿàß ·≈– ‰∫π’È ∂â“À“°‡ªìπ µ√’™“«∫â“π∞“π–¥’°Áπÿàßºâ“¬°∑Õ¥â«¬ ‰À¡ ·≈–ºâ“∑’Ë ’ ¥ «¬°«à“ ”À√—∫ºŸâ∑’Ë¡’«—¬ ŸßÕ“¬ÿ°Á¡—°

πÿàßÀà¡ºâ“ ’‡√’¬∫‡ªìπ ’æ◊Èπ ‚¥¬‡©æ“–ºâ“µ“¢“«¥” ´÷Ëß∂◊Õ«à“ ÿ¿“æ‡À¡“– ¡·°à«—¬ ..é Ù ‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡¢Õß™“«∫â“π‡ªìπºâ“ ∑’Ë∑Õ„™â‡Õß·∑∫∑—Èß ‘Èπ À“°‡ªìπ§À∫¥’¡’‡ß‘π°ÁÕ“®À“´◊ÈÕºâ“ ®“°µà“ßª√–‡∑»¡“„™â∫“â ß ·µàµÕâ ß‰¡à ç∑”‡∑’¬¡‡®â“‡∑’¬¡π“¬é §◊Õ ‰¡à „™âºâ“∑’Ë‡®â“π“¬™—Èπ Ÿß„™â¡“πÿàßÀà¡ ∂◊Õ«à“‡°‘π∞“π– πÕ°®“°π’È ¬—ß¡’ °ÆÀ¡“¬ °”Àπ¥‡√◊ÕË ß°“√„™âº“â ‰«âµß—È ·µà ¡—¬ Õ¬ÿ∏¬“ µàÕ¡“„π ¡—¬√—™°“≈∑’Ë Ò ·Ààß°√ÿß√—µπ‚° ‘π∑√å ¡’ æ√–√“™∫—≠≠—µ‘Àâ“¡ª√–™“™ππÿàßÀà¡ºâ“∫“ß™π‘¥∑’Ë ß«π‰«â ”À√—∫™π™—Èπ Ÿß‡∑à“π—Èπ ‡™àπ Àâ“¡πÿàßºâ“ ¡ªí°ªŸ¡∑âÕßπ“° ·≈–„ à‡ ◊ÈÕ§√ÿ¬ °√Õß§Õ °√Õßµâπ·¢π ¢âÕÀâ“¡π’È¬°‡≈‘°„π ¡—¬√—™°“≈∑’Ë ı ‡¡◊ËÕ∑√ß√—∫«—≤π∏√√¡°“√·µàß°“¬·∫∫ µ–«—πµ°‡¢â“¡“„π√“™ ”π—°°àÕπ∑’®Ë –·æ√àÀ≈“¬‰ª Ÿªà √–™“™π ‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡„π√“™ ”π—°‰∑¬ ¡—¬Õ¬ÿ∏¬“·≈–√—µπ‚° ‘π∑√å à«π¡“°„™âº“â ∑’ Ë ß—Ë ´◊ÕÈ ¡“®“° ‡¢¡√ ‡ªÕ√å‡™’¬ ®’π ·≈–Õ‘π‡¥’¬ ‡ªìπµâπ ¥—ßπ—Èπ ºâ“∑’Ë™“«∫â“π„™âπÿàßÀà¡®÷ß‡ªìπºâ“∑’Ë∑Õ‡Õß ºâ“∑Õ¡◊Õ À√◊Õ ºâ“æ◊Èπ∫â“π ´÷Ëß‡ªìπ√“°∞“π°“√πÿàßÀà¡¢Õß §π‰∑¬ °àÕπ∑’Ë®–ª√—∫‡ª≈’Ë¬π«—≤π∏√√¡°“√·µàß°“¬‰ª‡ªìπ ·∫∫µ–«—πµ° ºâ“æ◊Èπ∫â“π ‡ªìπ‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡∑’Ë™“«∫â“πª√–¥‘…∞å§‘¥§âπ ¢÷Èπ„™â Õ¬„π™’«‘µª√–®”«—π ¡’ ’ —π ≈«¥≈“¬ µ“¡§µ‘π‘¬¡ §«“¡‡™◊ËÕ ·≈–√ π‘¬¡¢Õß°≈ÿà¡™π · ¥ß„Àâ‡ÀÁπ¿Ÿ¡‘ªí≠≠“ ¢Õß°≈ÿà¡™πµà“ßÊ ‰¥â‡ªìπÕ¬à“ß¥’ Õ“®·∫àßºâ“æ◊Èπ∫â“π‡ªìπ °≈ÿà¡Ê µ“¡æ◊Èπ∑’Ë¢Õßª√–‡∑»‰¥â¥—ßπ’È ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡ æ◊πÈ ∫â“π¿“§‡Àπ◊Õ ¿“§°≈“ß ¿“§µ–«—πÕÕ°‡©’¬ß‡Àπ◊Õ ·≈– ¿“§„µâ 107

ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡æ◊Èπ∫â“π

Ò˜

ºâ“¡— ≈‘π ºâ“‡π◊ÈÕ∫“ß≈–‡Õ’¬¥ „™â‡ªìπ‡ ◊ÈÕ™—Èπ„π ¡—¬‚∫√“≥ —Ëß¡“®“°‡ªÕ√å‡™’¬ ¢πÕß §◊Õ À≈—ß √“™“»—æ∑å„™â æ√–¢πÕß –æ—° §◊Õ ºâ“Àà¡ ‰∫‡©’¬ß ∂â“‡ªìπ “¡—≠™π°Á„™âºâ“∏√√¡¥“ À√◊Õºâ“·æ√®’∫„Àâ‡ªìπ√‘È« À“°‡ªìπ‡®â“π“¬‡√’¬° ºâ“∑√ß –æ—° ¡—°‡ªìπ ºâ“µ“¥∑Õß ∑’∑Ë Õ¥â«¬∑Õß·≈àß°—∫‰À¡ „π°ÆÀ¡“¬µ√“ “¡¥«ß ¡—¬æ√–‡®â“ÕŸà∑Õß (æ.».Ò˘Ò) ‰¥â°”Àπ¥™π‘¥¢Õßºâ“∑’Ë„™âµ—¥‡ ◊ÈÕ ”À√—∫ æ√–∫√¡«ß»“πÿ«ß»å ‰«âµà“ß°—π ‡™àπ ç≈Ÿ°‡∏Õ‡Õ°‚∑...‡ ◊ÈÕ‚¿§≈“¬∑Õß À≈“π‡∏Õ‡Õ°‚∑..‡ ◊ÈÕ·æ√æ√√≥ ¢ÿπÀ¡◊Ëπæ√–°”π—≈..‡ ◊ÈÕ¢“«..é µàÕ¡“„π ¡—¬√—™°“≈∑’Ë Ò ·≈–√—™°“≈∑’Ë Û ¡’æ√–√“™∫—≠≠—µ‘°“√·µàß°“¬ÕÕ°¡“ ∫—ß§—∫„Àâ¢â“√“™°“√·≈–¢â“√“™∫√‘æ“√ ·µàß°“¬µ“¡∞“π—π¥√»—°¥‘Ï ∫√√¥“»—°¥‘Ï µ”·Àπàß µ“¡∑’Ë ‰¥â°”Àπ¥‰«â ‡©æ“–‡§√◊ËÕß∑√ß¢Õß‡®â“π“¬™—Èπ Ÿß à«π¡“°‡ªìπºâ“∑’Ë —Ëß‡¢â“¡“®“°µà“ßª√–‡∑» ®÷ß∑”„Àâ™π™—Èπ Ÿß¡’‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡ µà“ß®“° “¡—≠™πı

°“√·µàß°“¬¢Õß™“«≈â“ππ“ ®‘µ√°√√¡Ω“ºπ—ßÕÿ‚∫ ∂«—¥¿Ÿ¡‘π∑√å Õ”‡¿Õ‡¡◊Õß ®—ßÀ«—¥πà“π The dressing style of the Lanna people as depicted in the murals at Wat Phumin in Nan.

Ò¯

108

ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡ æ◊Èπ∫â“π¿“§‡Àπ◊Õ °≈ÿà¡§π‰∑¬ ‡ºà“µà“ßÊ ∑’ËÕ“»—¬Õ¬Ÿà „π∫√‘‡«≥¿“§‡Àπ◊Õ ¢Õßª√–‡∑»‰∑¬ ‡©æ“–¥‘π·¥π∑’‡Ë §¬‡ªìπÕ“≥“®—°√≈â“ππ“ „πÕ¥’µ ‰¥â·°à∫√‘‡«≥®—ßÀ«—¥‡™’¬ß√“¬ æ–‡¬“ ·æ√à πà“π ≈”ª“ß ≈”æŸπ ‡™’¬ß„À¡à ·≈–·¡àŒàÕß Õπ ®π∂÷ß ¥‘π·¥π ∫“ß à«π¢Õßª√–‡∑»æ¡à“ ª√–‡∑»®’π ·≈–ª√–‡∑»≈“«ˆ °≈ÿ¡à ™π‡À≈à“π’¡È «’ ≤— π∏√√¡°“√∑Õºâ“·≈–·µàß°“¬µ“¡≈—°…≥– ™“µ‘æπ— ∏ÿµå “à ß°—π¥—ßπ’È °≈ÿ¡à §π‰∑¬‡™◊ÕÈ “¬‰∑¬¬«π À√◊Õ ‚¬π° ∑’‡Ë √’¬° §π‡¡◊Õß „π®—ßÀ«—¥‡™’¬ß„À¡à ≈”æŸπ ≈”ª“ß ·≈–πà“π

°≈ÿ¡à §π‰∑¬‡™◊ÕÈ “¬‰∑≈◊ÕÈ ·≈–°≈ÿà¡§π‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬‰∑¬„À≠à „π®—ßÀ«—¥·¡àŒàÕß Õπ Õ”‡¿Õ‡™’¬ß¥“« Õ”‡¿ÕΩ“ß ®—ßÀ«—¥ ‡™’¬ß„À¡à Õ”‡¿Õ‡∂‘π ®—ßÀ«—¥≈”ª“ß °≈ÿà¡™“«‰∑¬¿Ÿ‡¢“·≈– ™π°≈ÿà¡πâÕ¬µà“ßÊ ∑’Ë°√–®—¥°√–®“¬Õ¬Ÿàµ“¡ —π‡¢“·≈– ∑’√Ë “∫ Ÿß¿“§‡Àπ◊Õ ‰¥â·°à ·¡â« ‡¬â“ ¡Ÿ‡´Õ Õ“¢à“ ·≈–°–‡À√’¬Ë ß ™π°≈ÿà¡πâÕ¬‡À≈à“π’È¡’«—≤π∏√√¡°“√·µàß°“¬·≈–°√√¡«‘∏’ „π°“√∑Õºâ“·µ°µà“ß°—π‰ª °≈ÿ¡à §π‰∑¬‡™◊ÕÈ “¬‰∑¬¬«π„πÕ¥’µ„™â ºâ“πÿßà ·≈– ºâ“Àà¡ ∑—ßÈ À≠‘ß·≈–™“¬ ºŸ™â “¬®–πÿßà À¬—°√—ßÈ —πÈ ®π∂÷ß‚§π¢“ ‡æ◊ÕË Õ«¥ ≈“¬ —°µ—ßÈ ·µà‡Àπ◊Õ‡¢à“¢÷πÈ ‰ª®π∂÷ß‚§π¢“ À√◊Õ∂÷ßæÿß ‰¡à «¡ ‡ ◊ÕÈ ·µà¡º’ “â ÀâÕ¬‰À≈à ·µà™π™—πÈ Ÿß «¡‡ ◊ÕÈ ¡’º“â æ—π‡Õ« ºŸÀâ ≠‘ß πÿàß´‘Ëπ≈“¬¢«“ß≈”µ—«¡’‡™‘ß‡ªìπ≈«¥≈“¬ ‰¡à «¡‡ ◊ÈÕ ·µà¡’ ºâ“·∂∫√—¥Õ° ¡—°‡°≈â“º¡¡«¬‰«â°≈“ß»’√…– ªí°ªîòπ À√◊Õ ‡ ’¬∫¥Õ°‰¡â °“√·µàß°“¬‡™àππ’È¬—ßª√“°Ø„π®‘µ√°√√¡ Ω“ºπ—ß«‘À“√À≈“¬·Ààß ‡™àπ ®‘µ√°√√¡Ω“ºπ—ß«‘À“√≈“¬§” «—¥æ√– ‘ßÀå«√¡À“«‘À“√ µ”∫≈æ√– ‘ßÀå ‡¢’¬π‡¡◊ËÕª√–¡“≥ æ.».ÚÙˆ ®‘µ√°√√¡Ω“ºπ—ß«‘À“√«—¥∫«°§√°À≈«ß Õ”‡¿Õ ‡¡◊Õß ®—ßÀ«—¥‡™’¬ß„À¡à ‡¢’¬π‡¡◊ËÕµâπæÿ∑∏»µ«√√…∑’Ë Úı ‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡∑’Ë¡’≈—°…≥–‡¥àπ¢ÕßºŸâÀ≠‘ß‰¥â·°à ´‘Ëπ ºâ“∑’Ë ‡¬Á∫‡ªìπ∂ÿß¡’¢π“¥°«â“ß·≈–¬“«µà“ßÊ °—πµ“¡√Ÿª√à“ß¢Õß ºŸâπÿàß ¡’∑—Èßºâ“ΩÑ“¬·≈–ºâ“‰À¡∑’Ë∑Õ‡ªìπºâ“æ◊Èπ ’‡¥’¬«‡√’¬∫Ê ∑Õ ≈—∫ ’‡ªìπ≈“¬¢«“ß≈”µ—« ∑Õ‡ªìπºâ“¬°¡’≈«¥≈“¬ À√◊Õ ∑Õ¬° Õ¥¥‘Èπ‡ß‘π¥‘Èπ∑Õß ´‘Ëπ·∫àß‡ªìπ Û à«π§◊Õ À—«´‘πË §◊Õ à«π∑’ÕË ¬Ÿµà ¥‘ °—∫‡Õ« ¡—°„™âº“â æ◊πÈ ’¢“« ·¥ß À√◊Õ ¥” µàÕ°—∫µ—«´‘Ëπ‡æ◊ËÕ„Àâ´‘Ëπ¬“«æÕ¥’°—∫§«“¡ Ÿß¢ÕßºŸâπÿàß ·≈–™à«¬„Àâ „™â ‰¥â§ß∑π ‡æ√“–‡ªìπ™“¬æ°µâÕß¢¡«¥‡ÀπÁ∫ ‡Õ«∫àÕ¬Ê µ—«´‘Ëπ à«π°≈“ß¢Õß´‘Ëπ °«â“ßµ“¡§«“¡°«â“ß¢Õßøó¡ ∑”„Àâ≈“¬ºâ“¢«“ß≈”µ—« ¡—°∑Õ‡ªìπ√‘È«Ê ¡’ ’µà“ßÊ ‡™àπ √‘È« ‡À≈◊Õßæ◊πÈ ¥” À√◊Õ∑Õ¬°‡ªìπµ“ ’‡Ë À≈’¬Ë ¡ À√◊Õ∑Õ‡ªìπ≈“¬‡≈Á°Ê µ’π´‘Ëπ à«π≈à“ß ÿ¥ Õ“®‡ªìπ ’·¥ß ¥” À√◊Õ∑Õ≈“¬®° ‡√’¬° ´‘Ëπµ’π®° ™“«‰∑¬¬«ππ‘¬¡∑Õµ’π®°·§∫ ‡™àπ ´‘Ëπ µ’π®°„πÕ”‡¿Õ·¡à·®à¡ ®—ßÀ«—¥‡™’¬ß„À¡à ¡—°∑Õ≈“¬ ’‡Ë À≈’¬Ë ¡ ¢â“«À≈“¡µ—¥Õ¬Ÿàµ√ß°≈“ß ‡™‘ß≈à“ß ÿ¥‡ªìπ ’·¥ß ´‘Ëπµ’π®° ¢Õß§À∫¥’ À √◊ Õ ‡®â “ π“¬¡— ° Õ¥¥‘È π ‡ß‘ π À√◊ Õ ¥‘È π ∑Õß„Àâ «¬ß“¡¬‘Ëß¢÷Èπ °“√πÿàß´‘Ëπ·≈–Àà¡ ‰∫‡ªìπ°“√·µàß°“¬∑’Ë·æ√àÀ≈“¬„π °≈ÿà¡ºŸâÀ≠‘ß™“«‡Àπ◊Õ·∑∫∑ÿ°°≈ÿà¡ ·µà√Ÿª·∫∫¢Õß´‘Ëπ®– ·µ°µà“ß°—πµ“¡§µ‘π‘¬¡¢Õß·µà≈–°≈ÿà¡ ‡™àπ °≈ÿà¡§π‰∑¬ ‡™◊ÈÕ “¬‰∑¬≈◊ÈÕ„πÕ”‡¿Õ∑à“«—ßº“ ªí« ‡™’¬ß°≈“ß ∑ÿàß™â“ß ®—ßÀ«—¥πà“π Õ”‡¿Õ‡™’¬ß§” ‡™’¬ß¡à«π ®—ßÀ«—¥æ–‡¬“ ·≈– Õ”‡¿Õ‡™’¬ß¢Õß ®—ßÀ«—¥‡™’¬ß√“¬ π‘¬¡πÿàß ´‘Ëπ¡—¥°à“π À√◊Õ 109

ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡æ◊Èπ∫â“π

Ò˘

§π‰∑¬ À√◊Õ ™π‡ºà“‰∑¬ ∑’ËæŸ¥¿“…“µ√–°Ÿ≈‰∑¬-≈“« ¡’À≈“¬ “¢“ ∑—Èß∑’ËÕ¬Ÿà„πª√–‡∑»‰∑¬·≈–πÕ°ª√–‡∑» (¡—°‡√’¬° ‰∑) ‡™àπ ‰∑¬¥” À√◊Õ ‚´àß ‰∑¬πâÕ¬ ‰∑¬„À≠à ‰∑¬¬«π ‰∑¬≈“« ‰¥â·°à ≈“«æ«π ≈“«§√—Ëß ≈“«‡«’¬ß ™π‡ºà“‰∑¬∑’ËÕ“»—¬Õ¬Ÿà„πª√–‡∑»‰∑¬ ªí®®ÿ∫—π∂◊Õ‡ªìπ§π‰∑¬∑—Èß ‘Èπ ·¡â®–¡’‡™◊ÈÕ “¬µà“ß°—π°Áµ“¡ °≈ÿ¡à ™π∑’ºË ™Ÿâ “¬ —°¢“ ¢÷Èπ‰ª®π∂÷ß‚§π¢“À√◊Õæÿß ∑’ËÕ“»—¬ Õ¬Ÿà„π¿“§‡Àπ◊Õ ∫“ß∑’‡√’¬° ≈“«æÿß¥” ‡æ√“–‡ªìπ§π‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬≈“«°≈ÿà¡Àπ÷Ëß ¥—ßª√“°Ø„π¿“æ®‘µ√°√√¡Ω“ºπ—ß«‘À“√ ≈“¬§” «—¥æ√– ‘ßÀåœ Õ”‡¿Õ‡¡◊Õß ®—ßÀ«—¥‡™’¬ß„À¡à ·≈–®‘µ√°√√¡Ω“ºπ—ß«‘À“√«—¥¿Ÿ¡π‘ ∑√å Õ”‡¿Õ‡¡◊Õß ®—ßÀ«—¥πà“π ‡ªìπµâπ

ºâ“´‘πË ≈â“ππ“ ª√–°Õ∫¥â«¬ À—«´‘Ëπ µ—«´‘Ëπ ·≈–µ’π´‘Ëπ A traditional Lanna robe for women has three parts: the upper piece, the main piece, and the decorative lower border.

ÒÒ

110

°“√∑Õºâ“ Õ”‡¿Õ≈—∫·≈ ®—ßÀ«—¥Õÿµ√¥‘µ∂å A robe with exquisite decorative lower border from Amphoe Laplae, Uttaradit.

§“¥°à“π ∑’∑Ë Õ¥â«¬‡ âπ¥â“¬∑’¡Ë ¥— ¬âÕ¡≈“¬¢«“ß≈”µ—« ∫“ß∑’∑Õ ≈—∫°—∫≈“¬¢‘¥ ‰¡à¡’≈«¥≈“¬∑’Ë‡™‘ß ·µà®–„Àâ§«“¡ ”§—≠°—∫ ≈«¥≈“¬·≈– ’ —π∫πµ—«´‘Ëπ ´‘Ëπ‰∑¬≈◊ÈÕÕ’°™π‘¥Àπ÷Ëß§◊Õ ´‘Ëπ≈“¬πÈ”‰À≈ ∑’Ë°“√∑Õ ≈â«ß À√◊Õ ‡°“– ‚¥¬°“√‡°’Ë¬«‡ âπ¥â“¬ ’µà“ßÊ ∑’Ë Õ¥√–À«à“ß ‡ âπ¬◊π„Àâ‡ªìπ≈“¬µ“¡µâÕß°“√§≈â“¬°—∫°“√ “π πÕ°®“°≈“¬ πÈ”‰À≈·≈â«ºâ“∑’Ë∑Õ¥â«¬°“√≈â«ßÀ√◊Õ‡°“–¬—ß¡’≈“¬Õ◊ËπÊ Õ’° ‡™àπ ≈“¬®√«¥ ≈“¬πÈ”‰À≈ “¬√ÿâß ºâ“∑Õ™“«‰∑≈◊ÈÕÕ’°™π‘¥Àπ÷Ëß§◊Õ ºâ“≈“¬‡°Á∫¡ÿ° ‡ªìπºâ“∑’Ë ∑Õ‚¥¬„™â ‰¡â ‰ºàª≈“¬·À≈¡ Õ¥‡°Á∫≈“¬ §≈â“¬°—∫°“√‡°Á∫¢‘¥ ∫“ß∑’ Õ¥¥â«¬¥‘πÈ ‡ß‘π·≈–¥‘πÈ ∑Õß à«π¡“°¡—°∑Õ‡ªìπ ºâ“‡™Á¥ ºâ“Àà¡ À√◊Õºâ“À≈∫ ‡ªìπµâπ ·¡âªí®®ÿ∫—πÀ≠‘ß™“«≈â“ππ“¬—ßπÿàß´‘ËπÕ¬Ÿà∫â“ß ·µà «¡ ‡ ◊ÈÕ·∑πºâ“·∂∫√—¥Õ° ´÷Ëß‡√‘Ë¡¡“µ—Èß·µà ¡—¬√—™°“≈∑’Ë ı ≈—°…≥–‡ªìπ‡ ◊ÈÕºâ“ΩÑ“¬ ’¢“«µÿàπ §Õ°≈¡ ·¢π°√–∫Õ° ºà“ Àπâ“µ≈Õ¥À√◊Õºà“§√÷ËßÕ° µ‘¥°√–¥ÿ¡·ªÖ∫ À√◊ÕºŸ°‡™◊Õ° ¡’ °√–‡ªÜ“À√◊Õ‰¡à¡’°Á ‰¥â ºŸâ ŸßÕ“¬ÿ®– «¡‡ ◊ÈÕæÕ¥’µ—« §≈â“¬‡ ◊ÈÕ ™—Èπ„π §Õ°≈¡µË” ‡«â“·¢π À“°‰ª«—¥®–Àà¡ºâ“·∂∫∑—∫‡ ◊ÈÕ Õ’°™—ÈπÀπ÷Ëß à«π‡¥Á°Ê À√◊ÕÀ≠‘ß “« «¡‡ ◊ÈÕ∫à“ÀâÕ¬ §◊Õ ‡ ◊ÈÕµ—«À≈«¡ ®’∫Àà“ßÊ ∑—Èß¥â“πÀπâ“·≈–À≈—ß „™âºâ“µàÕ¢Õ∫ µ—«‡ ◊ÈÕ¥â“π∫π¡’‡ âπ¥â“¬∂—°À√◊Õºâ“·∂∫°«â“ßª√–¡“≥ Ò π‘«È §√÷ßË ‡¬Á∫µ‘¥µ—«‡ ◊ÕÈ ‡ªìπ “¬§≈âÕß‰À≈à∑ß—È Õß¢â“ß ‡ ◊ÕÈ ¢Õß ºŸâÀ≠‘ß™“«≈â“ππ“Õ“®µà“ß°—π‰ª∫â“ßµ“¡§«“¡π‘¬¡¢Õß ·µà≈–°≈ÿà¡™π ”À√—∫ºŸâ™“¬π—Èππ‘¬¡ «¡°“ß‡°ß§≈â“¬ °“ß‡°ß®’π µ—¥‡¬Á∫¥â«¬ºâ“ΩÑ“¬¬âÕ¡§√“¡ (À¡âÕÀâÕ¡) ‡√’¬° °“ß‡°ßÀ¡âÕÀâÕ¡ ¡’∑—Èß°“ß‡°ß¢“ —Èπ§√÷Ëß·¢âß ·≈–°“ß‡°ß

¢“¬“« (‡µ’Ë¬« –¥Õ) π‘¬¡ «¡‡ ◊ÈÕ§Õ°≈¡∑Õ¥â«¬ΩÑ“¬ ’¢“« µÿàπÀ√◊Õ¬âÕ¡§√“¡Õ¬à“ß∑’Ë‡√’¬°«à“ ‡ ◊ÈÕÀ¡âÕÀâÕ¡ ·¢π —Èπ ºà“ Àπâ“µ≈Õ¥ ºŸ°‡™◊Õ° ¡’°√–‡ªÜ“ª–∑—Èß Õß¢â“ß µàÕ¡“æ—≤π“ ‡ªìπ‡ ◊ÈÕºà“§√÷ËßÕ° µ‘¥°√–¥ÿ¡ ¡’°√–‡ªÜ“À√◊Õ‰¡à¡’°Á‰¥â ˜ ºâ“ ”À√—∫µ—¥‡¬Á∫‡ªìπ‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡∑’Ëπ‘¬¡°—π¡“°„π¿“§‡Àπ◊Õ Õ’°™π‘¥Àπ÷Ëß§◊Õ ºâ“ ’°√¡∑à“ (indigo) À√◊Õ ’§√“¡ ¬âÕ¡ ¥â « ¬ µâπ§√“¡ À√◊ÕµâπÀâÕ¡ ”À√—∫µ—¥‡¬Á∫‡ªìπ‡ ◊ÈÕ·≈– °“ß‡°ßÀ¡âÕÀâÕ¡ ∑”°—π¡“°∑’Ë µ”∫≈∑ÿàß‚Œâß Õ”‡¿Õ‡¡◊Õß ®—ßÀ«—¥·æ√à πÕ°®“°π’¬È ß— ¡’º“â ∑Õ™π‘¥µà“ßÊ ¢Õß§π‰∑¬‡™◊ÕÈ “¬¬Õß ∑’µË ”∫≈‡«’¬ß¬Õß Õ”‡¿Õ‡¡◊Õß ®—ßÀ«—¥≈”æŸπ ºâ“ΩÑ“¬æ◊πÈ ‡¡◊Õß Õ”‡¿ÕªÉ“´“ß ®—ßÀ«—¥≈”æŸπ ·≈–ºâ“∑Õ¢Õß™“«‰∑¬¿Ÿ‡¢“ ‡ºà“µà“ßÊ ´÷Ëß¡’√Ÿª·∫∫‡©æ“–∂‘Ëπ∑’Ë·µ°µà“ß°—π¡“°¡“¬ „π∫√‘‡«≥¿“§‡Àπ◊ÕπÕ°®“°∑Õºâ“´‘πË ´÷ßË ‡ªìπºâ“πÿßà ·≈â« ¬— ß ∑Õºâ “ Õ◊Ë π Ê Õ’ ° À≈“¬™π‘ ¥ ‡™à π ºâ “ Àà ¡ À√◊ Õ ºâ “ À≈∫ ºâ“≈âÕÀ—«™â“ß µÿßÀ√◊Õ∏ß™π‘¥µà“ßÊ

111

ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡æ◊Èπ∫â“π

ÒÒÒ

§√“¡ ‰¡âæÿà¡™π‘¥Àπ÷Ëß („π °ÿ≈ Indigofera ¡’ª√–¡“≥ ˜ ™π‘¥ ¢÷Èπ∑—Ë«‰ª„π‡¢µ√âÕπ ·≈–°÷Ëß√âÕπ „π∑«’ª‡Õ‡™’¬·≈–·Õø√‘°“) „∫·≈–µâπ „™â∑” ’°√¡∑à“ (indigo) À√◊Õ ’§√“¡ ∫“ß∑’‡√’¬° ’π‘≈ °“√ª≈Ÿ°§√“¡®–µâÕßÀ«à“π‡¡≈Á¥§√“¡∑‘Èß‰«â °àÕπÀπâ“Ωπ ®“°π—Èπª√–¡“≥ Û ∂÷ß Ù ‡¥◊Õπ µâπ§√“¡°Á‚µæÕ∑’Ë®–‡°Á∫‡°’Ë¬« „™âµâπ °‘Ëß ·≈–„∫¡“À¡—°°—∫πÈ”´“«¢â“«∑‘Èß‰«â Ò §◊π ®–‰¥âπÈ” ’‡¢’¬«ÕàÕπ ·¬°‡Õ“°“°ÕÕ° º ¡°—∫ªŸπ°‘π°—∫À¡“° „™â ‰¡âµ’„Àâ¢÷ÈπøÕß ®π‡°‘¥ªØ‘°‘√‘¬“∏√√¡™“µ‘®“°¬’ µå ∑‘Èß„Àâµ°µ–°Õπ§≈â“¬‡≈π®π‰¥â‡π◊ÈÕ§√“¡ ’πÈ”‡ß‘π‡¢â¡ ‡°Á∫‰«â„™â¬âÕ¡ºâ“ ¬âÕ¡ΩÑ“¬ °“√¬âÕ¡µâÕßº ¡πÈ”¥à“ß¢’È‡∂â“„Àâ‡°‘¥°“√ ∫Ÿ¥‡πà“ „ à¡–°√Ÿ¥ ‡À≈â“ ªŸπ°‘π°—∫À¡“°≈ß‰ª º ¡ ·≈â«π” ‘Ëß∑’Ë®–¬âÕ¡·™àÀ¡—°‰«âÕ¬à“ßπâÕ¬ Àπ÷Ëß«—π ‡¡◊ËÕ¬âÕ¡§√—Èß·√°®–¡’ ’øÑ“ ®÷ßµâÕß¬âÕ¡´È”Ê °—πª√–¡“≥ ‘∫§√—Èß®÷ß¡’ ’πÈ”‡ß‘π‡¢â¡ °“√π”ΩÑ“¬™ÿ∫πÈ”À¡“¥Ê ·≈â«®ÿà¡≈ß„πÀ¡âÕ§√“¡ Ò §√—Èß ‡√’¬°«à“ ≈ß Ò ∫“∑ ¬âÕ¡ Ú §√—Èß‡√’¬° ≈ß Ú ∫“∑ À“°¬âÕ¡∑—∫°—πÀ≈“¬Ê §√—Èß ’®–‡¢â¡¡“°¢÷Èπ ‡√◊ËÕ¬Ê À“°µâÕß°“√„Àâ‡ªìπ ’Õ◊Ëπ°Á “¡“√∂ ¬âÕ¡ ’Õ◊Ëπ∑—∫≈ß‰ª ‡™àπ ’‡À≈◊Õß®“°·§ ’™¡æŸ®“°µâπ§âÕ ’¡à«ß®“°πÈ”§√—Ëß §√“¡ ¿“§‡Àπ◊Õ‡√’¬° ÀâÕ¡ ÀâÕ¡‡¡◊Õß À√◊Õ ŒàÕ¡

´â“¬ ¢«“ ºâ“´‘Ëπµ’π®°∫â“πÀ“¥‡ ’È¬« Õ”‡¿Õ»√’ —™π“≈—¬ ®—ßÀ«—¥ ÿ‚¢∑—¬ left, right The intricate design of the lower border called “tinjok” from Ban Hat Siao, Amphoe Si Satchanalai, Sukhothai.

ÒÒÚ

112

ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡ æ◊Èπ∫â“π¿“§°≈“ß ºâ“æ◊Èπ∫â“π¿“§°≈“ß à«π¡“°‡ªìπºâ“∑Õ¡◊Õ¢Õß °≈ÿà¡ §π‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬≈“«æ«π ≈“«§√—Ëß ≈“«‡«’¬ß ∑’ËÕæ¬æ‡¢â“¡“ µ—ßÈ ∂‘πË ∞“π„π∫√‘‡«≥¿“§°≈“ß¥â«¬ “‡Àµÿ∑“ß°“√‡¡◊Õß ‡™àπ ¡—¬°√ÿß∏π∫ÿ√’ (æ.».ÚÛÒÛ ∂÷ß ÚÛÚı) ¡‡¥Á®‡®â“æ√–¬“ ¡À“°…—µ√‘¬å»÷°·≈–‡®â“æ√–¬“ ÿ√ ’Àå¬°°Õß∑—æ‰ªµ’≈â“π™â“ß (ª√–‡∑» “∏“√≥√—∞ª√–™“∏‘ª ‰µ¬ª√–™“™π≈“«„πªí®®ÿ∫—π) ‰¥â°«“¥µâÕπ™“« ºŸâ ‰∑¥” À√◊Õ ‰∑∑√ß¥” ¡—°‡√’¬° ≈“«‚´àß À√◊Õ ‚´àß ·≈–™“«≈“«Õ◊πË Ê ®“°∫√‘‡«≥Ωíßò ¢«“¢Õß·¡àπÈ”‚¢ß ‡¢â“¡“‡ªìπ®”π«π¡“° ™“«≈“«‡À≈à“π’È ‰¥âµ—Èß∂‘Ëπ∞“πÕ¬Ÿàµ“¡ À—«‡¡◊Õßµà“ßÊ ‰¥â·°à ®—ßÀ«—¥ √–∫ÿ√’ π§√π“¬° ≈æ∫ÿ√’ √–∫ÿ√’ ©–‡™‘ß‡∑√“ √“™∫ÿ√’ ™≈∫ÿ√’ ·≈–®—π∑∫ÿ√’ µàÕ¡“„π√—™°“≈æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–æÿ∑∏¬Õ¥øÑ“®ÿÃ“ ‚≈°¡À“√“™ (æ.».ÚÛÚı ∂÷ß ÚÛıÚ) ‡¡◊Õß·°«·≈–‡¡◊Õß æ«π·¢Áß¢âÕµàÕ‡«’¬ß®—π∑πå ‡®â“‡¡◊Õß‡«’¬ß®—π∑πå¬°∑—æ‰ª ª√“∫·≈â«°«“¥µâÕπ§√Õ∫§√—« ™“«æ«π ·≈– ™“«‚´àß àß

¡“„Àâ ®÷ß‚ª√¥‡°≈â“œ „Àâ ‰ªµ—ßÈ ∂‘πË ∞“πÕ¬Ÿµà “¡À—«‡¡◊Õß√Õ∫πÕ° ‡©æ“–™“«‚´àß‰ªµ—Èß∂‘Ëπ∞“π∑’Ë∫√‘‡«≥Õ”‡¿Õ‡¢“¬âÕ¬ ®—ßÀ«—¥ ‡æ™√∫ÿ√’ µàÕ¡“·¬°¬â“¬°—π‰ªµ—Èß∂‘Ëπ∞“π„π∫√‘‡«≥®—ßÀ«—¥ „°≈â‡§’¬ß ‡™àπ ®—ßÀ«—¥π§√ª∞¡ ·≈– ÿæ√√≥∫ÿ√’ ¡—¬√—™°“≈∑’Ë Û æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–π—Ëß‡°≈â“‡®â“Õ¬ŸàÀ—« (æ.».ÚÛˆ˜ ∂÷ ß ÚÛ˘Ù) à ß ‡®â “ æ√–¬“√“™ ÿ ¿ “«¥’ ‰ ªµ’ ‡«’¬ß®—π∑πå·≈â«Õæ¬æ§√Õ∫§√—«™“«≈“«¡“‰«â∑’Ë ≈æ∫ÿ√’ √–∫ÿ√’ ÿæ√√≥∫ÿ√’ °”·æß‡æ™√ πÕ°®“°π’È ¬—ß‚ª√¥‡°≈â“œ „Àâ ‡®â“æ√–¬“∏√√¡“¬°∑—æ¢÷Èπ‰ª¢—∫‰≈à≠«π∑’Ë‡¢â“‰ªµ—Èß∂‘Ëπ∞“π Õ¬Ÿà „π‡¢µ‡¡◊Õßæ«π·≈–‡¡◊Õß„°≈â‡§’¬ß¢Õß≈“« ·≈â«°«“¥ µâÕπ§√Õ∫§√—«™“«≈“«‡¢â“¡“‰«â∑’Ë∫â“πÀ¡’Ë ∫â“π π“¡·®ß ∫â“π°≈â«¬ ∫â“πÀ‘πªí° ·≈–À¡Ÿ∫à “â πÕ◊πË Ê „π‡¢µÕ”‡¿Õ∫â“πÀ¡’Ë ®—ßÀ«—¥≈æ∫ÿ√’ ∫â“π∑—∫§≈âÕ «—ßÀ≈ÿ¡ ∑ÿàß‚æ∏‘Ï µ–æ“πÀ‘π ®—ßÀ«—¥æ‘®‘µ√ §π‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬≈“«‡À≈à“π’ÈπÕ°®“°ª√–°Õ∫ Õ“™’æ∑”π“∑”‰√à·≈â« ¬—ß∑Õºâ“µ“¡·∫∫Õ¬à“ß·≈–¢π∫π‘¬¡ 113

ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡æ◊Èπ∫â“π

ÒÒÛ

´‘Ëπ∫â“π§Ÿ∫—« Õ”‡¿Õ‡¡◊Õß ®—ßÀ«—¥√“™∫ÿ√’ A robe from Ban Khu Bua, Amphoe Mueang, Ratchaburi.

∑’Ë ◊ ∫ ∑Õ¥°— π ¡“·µà ∫ √√æ∫ÿ √ÿ … ¢Õßµπµ“¡∑â Õ ß∂‘Ë π µà “ ßÊ À≈“¬·Ààß ‡™àπ °≈ÿà¡∑Õºâ“‰∑¬æ«π À√◊Õ ≈“«æ«π ∫â“π À“¥‡ ’È¬« ∫â“πÀ“¥ Ÿß ∫â“π„À¡à ·≈–∫â“π·¡à√“° µ”∫≈ À“¥‡ ’È¬« Õ”‡¿Õ»√’ —™π“≈—¬ ®—ßÀ«—¥ ÿ‚¢∑—¬ ∫â“π°≈â«¬ ∫â“πÀ‘πªí° Õ”‡¿Õ∫â“πÀ¡’Ë ®—ßÀ«—¥≈æ∫ÿ√’ ∫â“π‰√à Õ”‡¿Õ∫â“π‰√à ®—ßÀ«—¥Õÿ∑—¬∏“π’ πÕ°®“°π’¬È ß— ¡’ °≈ÿ¡à §π‰∑¬‡™◊ÕÈ “¬‰∑¬¬«π ∑’ÕË æ¬æ®“° ‡¡◊Õß‡™’¬ß· π‡¢â“¡“µ—ßÈ ∂‘πË ∞“π„π¿“§°≈“ßÀ≈“¬°≈ÿ¡à ‡™àπ °≈ÿ¡à ∑Õºâ“µ”∫≈§Ÿ∫«— µ”∫≈¥Õπ·√à Õ”‡¿Õ‡¡◊Õß ®—ßÀ«—¥√“™∫ÿ√’ ∫â“π‡ “‰Àâ Õ”‡¿Õ‡ “‰Àâ ®—ßÀ«—¥ √–∫ÿ√’ ™“«‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬≈“«æ«ππ‘¬¡πÿàß´‘ËπΩÑ“¬ À√◊ÕΩÑ“¬ ≈—∫ ‰À¡´‘πË ∑’πË ßÿà Õ¬Ÿ∫à “â π·≈–πÿßà ∑”ß“π‡ªìπ´‘πË ΩÑ“¬∑Õ¥â«¬≈«¥≈“¬ ∏√√¡¥“ ‡™‘ß‡ªìπ·∂∫ ’¥”À√◊Õ ’·¥ßÕ¡ â¡ „π‚Õ°“ æ‘‡»… ‡™àπ ß“π‡∑»°“≈ª√–®”ªï ß“π∫«™π“§ ®–πÿàß´‘ËπΩÑ“¬À√◊Õ ΩÑ“¬ ≈—∫‰À¡ ≈“¬¢«“ß≈”µ—« ‡™‘ß‡ªìπ≈“¬®° π‘¬¡∑Õ‡ªìπ ≈“¬‡√¢“§≥‘µ ‡√’¬°™◊ËÕµà“ßÊ °—π ‡™àπ ≈“¬ ‘∫À°¥Õ°µ—¥ ≈“¬·ª¥¢Õ ≈“¬ ’¥Ë Õ°µ—¥ ≈“¬‡§√◊Õ„À≠à ≈“¬¥Õ°‡§√◊ÕπâÕ¬ ≈“¬‡À≈à“π’È¡—°Õ¬Ÿà „π√Ÿª ’Ë‡À≈’Ë¬¡¢â“«À≈“¡µ—¥¡’≈“¬‡≈Á°Ê ¢â“ß„π µ—«≈“¬π‘¬¡„™â ’·¥ßÕ¡ â¡ ’πÈ”µ“≈ªπ‡À≈◊Õß ≈“¬ ∑’Ë Õ¥‰ â‡ªìπ ’ÕàÕπ ‡™‘ß≈à“ß ÿ¥¡—°‡ªìπæ◊Èπ ’·¥ß µ’π®°¢Õß §π‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬≈“«æ«π®–¡’√Ÿª·∫∫§≈â“¬§≈÷ß°—π

ÒÒÙ

114

πÕ°®“°ºâ“´‘Ëπ·≈â«§π‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬≈“«æ«π¬—ß∑Õºâ“ ™π‘¥Õ◊ËπÕ’°À≈“¬™π‘¥ ‡™àπ ºâ“Àà¡πÕπ À√◊Õ ºâ“À≈∫ ºâ“‡π◊ÈÕ Àπ“≈“¬µ“√“ßÕ¬à“ßºâ“¢“«¡â“ ∑Õ¥â«¬ΩÑ“¬‡ªìπ ’Ë‡À≈’Ë¬¡ º◊πºâ“ À¡Õπº“ À√◊Õ À¡Õπ¢«“π ·≈– À¡Õπ ’‡Ë À≈’¬Ë ¡ ´÷ßË ¡’≈“¬¢‘¥∑’ËÀπâ“À¡ÕπÕ¬à“ßÀ¡Õπ¢‘¥¢ÕßÕ’ “π ºâ“¢“«¡â“ π‘¬¡∑Õ‡ªìπµ“µ“√“ß ∂â“„™â‡ªìπºâ“°√“∫®–∑Õ‡ªìπ√Ÿª —µ«å∑’Ë ‡™‘ßºâ“ ‡™àπ ™â“ß ¡â“ §π¢’Ë¡â“ ºâ“™π‘¥π’È·µà‡¥‘¡„™â „πæ‘∏’ ·µàßß“π·≈â«‡°Á∫‰«â‡ªìπ ‘√‘¡ß§≈ ·µàªí®®ÿ∫—πª√–¬ÿ°µå‡ªìπ ºâ“æ—π§Õ ºâ“§≈ÿ¡‰À≈à ¢≥–‰ª«—¥À√◊Õ‰ªß“πæ‘∏’µà“ßÊ ‡ªìπ ºâ“ΩÑ“¬∑Õ¥â«¬ÀŸ°Àπâ“·§∫ ®÷ßµâÕß„™â Õßº◊π‡æ≈“–µàÕ°—π µ√ß°≈“ß ‡™‘ß¡’≈“¬ ª≈àÕ¬™“¬ºâ“‡ªìπ™“¬§√ÿ¬·≈â«∑”‡ªìπ ‡°≈’¬« ¬à“¡ ∂ÿß„ à¢Õß ∑Õ¥â«¬ΩÑ“¬ ‡ªìπ¢Õß„™âª√–®”µ—« ª√–®”∫â“π ¡—°∑Õ¥â«¬ΩÑ“¬ ’¢“«¡’≈“¬¥”‡ªìπ∑“ß¬“« ¡’ Û ¢π“¥§◊Õ ¢π“¥„À≠à „™â „ àºâ“·≈–Õÿª°√≥å°“√∑Õºâ“·¢«π ª√–®”ÀŸ° À√◊Õ„ à¥â“¬∑’Ë¬—ß‰¡à ‰¥â¬âÕ¡ À√◊Õ„ àºâ“∑’Ë∑Õ·≈â«‰ª ¢“¬ ¢π“¥°≈“ß„™â –æ“¬µ‘¥µ—«¬“¡‡¥‘π∑“ß ¢π“¥‡≈Á°„™â „ à ¢ Õß°√–®ÿ ° °√–®‘ ° µ‘ ¥ µ— « ‡¡◊Ë Õ ‰ª«— ¥ À√◊ Õ ‰ª√à « ¡„πß“π ª√–‡æ≥’µà“ßÊ °“√∑Õºâ“¢Õß™“«‰∑¬æ«π„πªí®®ÿ∫—π¬—ß¡’Õ¬Ÿà „πÀ≈“¬ ∑âÕß∂‘Ëπ ‡™àπ °≈ÿà¡∑Õºâ“∫â“π∑ÿàß ß∫ µ”∫≈‰ºà‡¢’¬« Õ”‡¿Õ «à“ßÕ“√¡≥å °≈ÿà¡∑Õºâ“∫â“π‚§°À¡âÕ µ”∫≈‚§°À¡âÕ Õ”‡¿Õ∑—æ∑—π ·≈–°≈ÿà¡∑Õºâ“∫â“π∑—æ§≈â“¬ µ”∫≈∑—æÀ≈«ß Õ”‡¿Õ∫â“π‰√à ®—ßÀ«—¥Õÿ∑—¬∏“π’ °≈ÿà¡∑Õºâ“µ”∫≈‡π‘π¢“¡ Õ”‡¿ÕÀ— π §“ °≈ÿà ¡ ∑Õºâ “ µ”∫≈°ÿ ¥ ®Õ° Õ”‡¿Õ«— ¥ ‘ ß Àå ®—ßÀ«—¥™—¬π“∑ ·≈–∫“ß∑âÕß∂‘Ëπ‡¢µ®—ßÀ«—¥ ‘ßÀå∫ÿ√’·≈– ®—ßÀ«—¥ ÿæ√√≥∫ÿ√’ §π‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬‰∑¬¬«π À√◊Õ ‚¬π° ‡ªìπ°≈ÿà¡™π∑’Ë¡’ ¢π∫ª√–‡æ≥’ · ≈–«— ≤ π∏√√¡§≈â “ ¬§≈÷ ß °— ∫ ™“«‰∑¬¬«π À√◊Õ§π‡¡◊Õß„π≈â“ππ“ ™“«‰∑¬¬«π∑’Ë‡¢â“¡“µ—Èß∂‘Ëπ∞“π„π ¿“§°≈“ß à«πÀπ÷ËßÕæ¬æ¡“®“°‡¡◊Õß‡™’¬ß· π „π ¡—¬ √—™°“≈∑’Ë Ò ·Ààß°√ÿß√—µπ‚° ‘π∑√å ‡æ◊ËÕ„Àâæâπ®“°Õ‘∑∏‘æ≈ ¢Õßæ¡à“∑’Ë¡—°‡¢â“¡“µ’‡¡◊Õß‡™’¬ß· π·≈â«„™â‡ªìπ∑’Ë – ¡ ‡ ∫’¬ß°àÕπ∑’Ë®–‡¢â“¡“√ÿ°√“πÀ—«‡¡◊ÕßΩÉ“¬‡Àπ◊ÕÕ¬Ÿà‡ ¡ÕÊ æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á ® æ√–æÿ ∑ ∏¬Õ¥øÑ “ ®ÿ Ã “‚≈°¡À“√“™®÷ ß ‚ª√¥‡°≈â“œ „ÀâÕæ¬æ™“«‡¡◊Õß‡™’¬ß· π®”π«πÀπ÷Ëß≈ß¡“ µ—Èß∂‘Ëπ∞“π∑’ËÕ”‡¿Õ≈—∫·≈ ®—ßÀ«—¥Õÿµ√¥‘µ∂å Õ”‡¿Õ‡ “‰Àâ ®—ßÀ«—¥ √–∫ÿ√’ Õ”‡¿Õ‚æ∏“√“¡ Õ”‡¿Õ‡¡◊Õß ®—ßÀ«—¥√“™∫ÿ√’ ‡ªìπµâπ ™“«‰∑¬¬«π‡À≈à“π’¬È ß— §ß√—°…“«—≤π∏√√¡°“√∑Õºâ“ µ“¡·∫∫·ºπ∑’Ë ◊∫∑Õ¥°—π¡“·µà∫√√æ∫ÿ√ÿ…®π∂÷ßªí®®ÿ∫—π ‚¥¬‡©æ“–´‘Ëπµ’π®°∑’Ë¡’ ’ —π·≈–≈«¥≈“¬ «¬ß“¡¡“° ™“«‰∑¬∑√ß¥” À√◊Õ ™“«‰∑¬‚´àß À√◊Õ∑’Ë‡√’¬°°—π«à“ ‚´àß π—ÈπÕæ¬æ‡¢â“¡“µ—Èß∂‘Ëπ∞“π„π∫√‘‡«≥¿“§Õ’ “π·≈–¿“§ °≈“ßÀ≈“¬√–≈Õ° µ—Èß·µà ¡—¬°√ÿß∏π∫ÿ√’ ¡—¬√—™°“≈∑’Ë Ò

·≈– ¡—¬√—™°“≈∑’Ë Û ·Ààß°√ÿß√—µπ‚° ‘π∑√å ‚¥¬µ—Èß∂‘Ëπ∞“π Õ¬Ÿà „π‡¢µÕ”‡¿Õ‡¢“¬âÕ¬ ®—ßÀ«—¥‡æ™√∫ÿ√’ µàÕ¡“®÷ß¢¬“¬ ÕÕ°‰ªµ—Èß∂‘Ëπ∞“π„πÀ≈“¬∑âÕß∂‘Ëπ„π®—ßÀ«—¥„°≈â‡§’¬ß ‡™àπ ∫√‘‡«≥Õ”‡¿Õ∫“ß‡≈π ®—ßÀ«—¥π§√ª∞¡ ·≈–Õ”‡¿ÕÕŸà∑Õß ®—ßÀ«—¥ ÿæ√√≥∫ÿ√’ ™“«‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬‚´àß∑—ÈßÀ≠‘ß·≈–™“¬π‘¬¡πÿàßÀà¡¥â«¬ºâ“ ’¥” À√◊Õ°√¡∑à“ ºŸâÀ≠‘ßπÿàß´‘Ëπ¥” ’¡’√‘È«¢“«¢π“π°—∫≈”µ—« ‡√’¬° ´‘Ëπ≈“¬™–‚¥ À√◊Õ ´‘Ëπ≈“¬·µß‚¡ «¡ ‡ ◊ÈÕ°âÕ¡ ’¥” À√◊Õ ’§√“¡‡¢â“√Ÿª §Õ°≈¡ ·¢π°√–∫Õ° µ‘¥°√–¥ÿ¡‡ß‘π∂’ËÊ ˘ ∂÷ß ÒÒ ‡¡Á¥ À“°‡ªìπ§π¡’∞“π–¥’®–µ‘¥°√–¥ÿ¡ Õß·∂« ‡¡◊ÕË ‰ª«—¥¡—°æ“¥ ºâ“‡ªï¬« À√◊Õºâ“ ‰∫ À“°‰ªµ≈“¥®– –æ“¬ °–‡À≈Á∫ µà“ß°√–‡ªÜ“ À“°‡¢â“ªÉ“®– –æ“¬¬à“¡ ºŸâ™“¬πÿàß °“ß‡°ß À√◊Õ â«ß°âÕ¡ (°“ß‡°ß¢“ —Èπ) À√◊Õ â«ßŒ’ (°“ß‡°ß ¢“¬“«) ’¥”À√◊Õ ’§√“¡§≈â“¬°“ß‡°ß®’π À“°‰ªß“πæ‘∏ ’ ”§—≠ ∑—ßÈ À≠‘ß·≈–™“¬®– «¡ ‡ ◊ÕÈ Œ’ §◊Õ‡ ◊ÕÈ ’¥” ∑√ß°√– Õ∫ §Õ°≈¡ ºà“Àπâ“ ·¢π¬“« “∫ ¯ «“ ªÑ“¬∑—∫¥â“π´â“¬ µ‘¥°√–¥ÿ¡ √—¥§Õ µ—«„À≠à¬“«≈ß¡“‡ ¡Õ‡¢à“ §≈ÿ¡µ°·µàß¥â«¬ºâ“‰À¡ ’ ¥Ê ·≈–°√–®°‡ß“‡≈Á°Ê ∑’Ë§Õ‡ ◊ÈÕ·≈–„µâ·¢π¥â“π„π ¢Õß‡ ◊ÈÕ ‚¥¬ «¡‡ ◊ÈÕ°≈—∫‡Õ“¥â“π„πÕÕ°„Àâ‡ÀÁπ ’ —π∑’Ë «¬ß“¡‡©æ“–ß“π ”§—≠ ‡™àπ ß“π»æ¢Õß≠“µ‘∑’Ë „°≈â™¥‘ °—π °“√∑Õºâ“¢Õß™“«‰∑¬‡™◊ÕÈ “¬≈“«‚´àß„πªí®®ÿ∫π— ¡’Õ¬Ÿ∫à “â ß ‡™àπ °≈ÿ¡à ∑Õºâ“µ”∫≈¥Õπ¡–‡°≈◊Õ Õ”‡¿ÕÕŸ∑à Õß ®—ßÀ«—¥ ÿæ√√≥∫ÿ√’ ‡ªìπµâπ ªí®®ÿ∫—π°“√∑Õºâ“æ◊Èπ∫â“π¢Õß§π‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬≈“« ·≈– ‰∑¬¬«π„π∫√‘‡«≥¿“§°≈“ß‰¥â√—∫°“√Õπÿ√—°…å·≈– àß‡ √‘¡ ‡ªìπÀπ÷Ëßµ”∫≈Àπ÷Ëßº≈‘µ¿—≥±å µ“¡π‚¬∫“¬¢Õß√—∞∫“≈ ™à«¬„Àâ°“√∑Õºâ“æ◊Èπ∫â“π„π¿“§°≈“ß§ßÕ¬Ÿà ‰¥â√–¥—∫Àπ÷Ëß Õ¬à“ß‰√°Áµ“¡ °“√·µàß°“¬¢Õß™“«∫â“π À√◊Õ “¡—≠™π ¿“§°≈“ß„πÕ¥’µ πÕ°®“°°“√·µàß°“¬‡©æ“–°≈ÿà¡™π∑’Ëπÿàß ´‘Ëπ ¡’ºâ“·∂∫√—¥Õ°·≈â« ™“«‰∑¬∑—Ë«‰ª°ÁπÿàßÀà¡Õ¬à“ßßà“¬Ê ¥â«¬°“√πÿàßº◊πÀà¡º◊π ‡©æ“–ºŸâ™“¬Õ“®®–πÿàß‚®ß°√–‡∫π¡’ ºâ“¢“«¡â“§“¥‡Õ« ∑àÕπ∫π‡ª≈◊Õ¬‡ª≈à“ °“√πÿàßÀà¡¢Õß™“¬ ‰∑¬‡√‘Ë¡‡ª≈’Ë¬π¡“πÿàß°“ß‡°ß·≈– «¡‡ ◊ÈÕ ¢≥–∑’ËºŸâÀ≠‘ß°Á ‡ª≈’Ë¬π®“°°“√πÿàß´‘Ëπ πÿàßºâ“∂ÿß πÿàßºâ“‚®ß°√–‡∫π ¡“ «¡ °√–‚ª√ß·≈–‡ ◊ÈÕ·∫∫™“«µ–«—πµ°„π ¡—¬√—™°“≈∑’Ë ı ·≈â« ‡ª≈’Ë¬π¡“·µàß°“¬µ“¡ “°≈π‘¬¡‡™àπ∑ÿ°«—ππ’È

°–‡À≈Á∫ ¿“™π– “π¥â«¬‰¡â ‰ºà ¢Õß§π‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬‚´àßÀ√◊Õ‰∑¬∑√ß¥” ª“°°≈¡ °≈“ßªÉÕß Õ∫‡¢â“ °âπ‡ªìπ ’Ë‡À≈’Ë¬¡º◊πºâ“ ¡—°‡ √‘¡¢Õ∫ª“° ¥â«¬À«“¬ ¡’ÀŸ ”À√—∫√âÕ¬‡™◊Õ° –æ“¬‰À≈à ‚¥¬∑—Ë«‰ª‡®â“∫à“« ®–‡ªìπºŸâ “π‡æ◊ËÕ„ à‡§√◊ËÕß¢—πÀ¡“° „πæ‘∏’·µàßß“π ‡®â“ “«®–√—∫°–‡À≈Á∫ ‰ª‰À«âº’∫â“πº’‡√◊Õπæ√âÕ¡°—∫‡®â“∫à“« ®“°π—Èππ”À¡“°æ≈Ÿ„π°–‡À≈Á∫ ·®°§π‡≤à“§π·°à ‡æ◊ËÕ§«“¡‡ªìπ ‘√‘¡ß§≈ ·≈–‡ªìπ°“√¢Õæ√‰ª¥â«¬ À≈—ß®“°·µàßß“π·≈â«À≠‘ß™“«‚´àß ®–„™â°–‡À≈Á∫„ à‡ ◊ÈÕºâ“ ·ªÑß ¢â“« º≈‰¡â ·≈– ‘Ëß¢ÕßÕ◊ËπÊ °–‡À≈Á∫∑’Ë„™â„πæ‘∏’·µàßß“π‡ªìπ‡§√◊ËÕß∫Õ° ∞“π–¢Õß‡®â“∫à“«¥â«¬ §◊Õ∂â“¡’∫√√¥“»—°¥‘Ï À√◊Õ‡ªìπºŸâ∑â“« „™â°–‡À≈Á∫ Ù „∫ ·µà∂â“‡ªìπ§π “¡—≠„™â°–‡À≈Á∫ Ú „∫ ªí®®ÿ∫—π™“«‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬≈“«‚´àß„π∫√‘‡«≥ ®—ßÀ«—¥‡æ™√∫ÿ√’ ÿæ√√≥∫ÿ√’ ·≈–π§√ª∞¡ ¬—ß„™â°–‡À≈Á∫Õ¬Ÿà∫â“ß A Song container called “kalep” is made from bamboo strips woven into a basket-like container. Usually a bridegroom makes kaleps to contain dowry and offerings for his bride. During the wedding, after the bride has received them, she puts away the offers and uses the kalep to contain snacks and chews for the guests. They will be used to contain her personal effects afterwards. A well-to-do groom usually offers four kaleps to his bride, whereas an ordinary groom offers only two. Kalep is still used in some western cities.

À≠‘ß™“«‚´àß ·µàß°“¬µ“¡ª√–‡æ≥’¥—Èß‡¥‘¡ –æ“¬°–‡À≈Á∫ A Song female in traditional costume, carrying the folk bamboo container called “kalep.”

115

ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡æ◊Èπ∫â“π

ÒÒı

´â“¬ ºâ“‰À¡¡—¥À¡’Ë Õ”‡¿Õ™π∫∑ ®—ßÀ«—¥¢Õπ·°àπ left A “matmi” fabric design from Amphoe Chonnabot, Khon Kaen.

¢«“ ´‘Ëπ¡—¥À¡’Ë∫â“πÀπÕß‡¢◊ËÕπ™â“ß Õ”‡¿Õ‡¡◊Õß ®—ßÀ«—¥¡À“ “√§“¡ right A “matmi” fabric design from Ban Nong Khuean Chang, Amphoe Mueang, Maha Sarakham.

ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡ æ◊Èπ∫â“π¿“§Õ’ “π ¿“§µ–«—πÕÕ°‡©’¬ß‡Àπ◊ÕÀ√◊Õ¿“§Õ’ “π‡ªìπ¥‘π·¥π∑’Ë ¡’°“√∑Õºâ“°—π¡“°¡“·µà‚∫√“≥ ‡©æ“– °≈ÿ¡à §π‰∑¬‡™◊ÕÈ “¬ ≈“« ºŸâ ‰∑¬ ‡¢¡√ ·≈– ™π°≈ÿà¡πâÕ¬ °≈ÿà¡™π‡À≈à“π’È¡’°“√ ∑Õºâ“ ”À√—∫„™â‡ªìπ‡§√◊ÕË ßπÿßà Àà¡ ·≈–„™â „πæ‘∏°’ √√¡∑’‡Ë °‘¥®“° ¿Ÿ¡‘ªí≠≠“∑’Ë ◊∫∑Õ¥°—π¡“®“°∫√√æ™π ®π¡’‡Õ°≈—°…≥å ‡©æ“–°≈ÿà¡™πÀ≈“¬ª√–‡¿∑·µ°µà“ß°—π‰ª ≈“« °≈ÿ¡à ™π∑’¡Ë ∂’ π‘Ë °”‡π‘¥„π∫√‘‡«≥≈ÿ¡à ·¡àπÈ”‚¢ß µ—ßÈ ·µà‡¢µ ‡¡◊Õß ‘ßÀå∑“ßµÕπ„µâ¢Õß·§«âπ ‘∫ Õßªíππ“ “∏“√≥√—∞ ª√–™“™π®’π ≈ß¡“®π∂÷ß·§«âπ ‘∫ Õß®ÿ‰∑À√◊Õ‡¥’¬π‡∫’¬πøŸ ·§«âπµ—ππ‘π∑å „πª√–‡∑» “∏“√≥√—∞ —ß§¡π‘¬¡‡«’¬¥π“¡ µàÕ¡“°√–®“¬‰ª¬—ß≈ÿ¡à ·¡àπÈ”µà“ßÊ æ«°Àπ÷ßË ¡“∑“ßµ–«—πµ° ·≈–µÕπ„µâ¢Õß·¡àπÈ”‚¢ß ¢≥–∑’Ë æ√–¬“øÑ“ßÿâ¡ √â“ß Õ“≥“®—°√≈â“π™â“ß¢÷Èπ∑’ËÀ≈«ßæ√–∫“ß ·≈â«¢¬“¬Õ“≥“‡¢µ ÕÕ°‰ª∂÷ß‡¡◊Õß‡«’¬ß®—π∑πå ‡«’¬ß§” ‚§µ√∫Õß ·≈–∫“ß à«π ¢Õß≈ÿà¡·¡àπÈ”™’ „π¿“§Õ’ “π¢Õß‰∑¬ µàÕ¡“æ√–¬“øÑ“ßÿâ¡∂Ÿ° ª≈¥ÕÕ°®“°√“™ ¡∫—µ‘ Àπ’ ‰ªÕ“»—¬Õ¬Ÿà∑’Ë‡¡◊Õßπà“π ‚Õ√ ™◊ËÕ ∑â“«Õÿàπ‡√◊Õπ ‰¥â§√Õß√“™¬å·∑π ∑√ßæ√–π“¡«à“ æ√–‡®â“ “¡· π‰∑¬ ´÷ßË ‡ªìπ°…—µ√‘¬ å ”§—≠æ√–Õß§åÀπ÷ßË ∑’ªË √“°Ø„π æß»“«¥“√≈â“π™â“ß ∑√ß¡’§«“¡ —¡æ—π∏å∑“ß‡§√◊Õ≠“µ‘°—∫ °√ÿß»√’Õ¬ÿ∏¬“·≈–‡™’¬ß„À¡à µàÕ¡“™“«≈“«Õæ¬æ‡¢â“¡“µ—Èß ∂‘Ëπ∞“π„π¿“§Õ’ “π ∫“ß°≈ÿà¡ √â“ß∫â“π‡¡◊Õß¢÷Èπ„À¡à ·≈– ∫“ß°≈ÿà¡‡¢â“¡“Õ¬Ÿàª–ªπ°—∫™“«æ◊Èπ‡¡◊Õß‡¥‘¡∑’ËÕæ¬æ¡“®“° Õ“≥“®—°√≈â“π™â“ß

ÒÒˆ

116

¡— ¬ °√ÿ ß ∏π∫ÿ √’ ≈“«·µ°·¬°‡ªì π Û ·§«â π ‰¥â · °à À≈«ßæ√–∫“ß ‡«’¬ß®—π∑πå ·≈–®”ª“»—°¥‘Ï µà“ßΩÉ“¬µà“ß · «ßÀ“§«“¡™à«¬‡À≈◊Õ®“°‰∑¬·≈–≠«π ∑”„ÀâÕ“≥“®—°√ ≈â“π™â“ßÕàÕπ·Õ≈ß „π∑’ Ë ¥ÿ °Áµ°‡ªìπ‡¡◊Õß¢÷πÈ ¢Õß‰∑¬∑—ßÈ À¡¥ µàÕ¡“„π ¡—¬µâπ√—µπ‚° ‘π∑√å æ√–‡®â“Õπÿ«ß»å ¢÷Èπ‡ªìπ °…—µ√‘¬å≈“« ‡°‘¥§«“¡¢—¥·¬âß·µ°·¬°¢÷ÈπÕ’° ∫“ß°≈ÿà¡Àπ’ ‡¢â“¡“≈’È¿—¬„π∫√‘‡«≥¿“§Õ’ “π ‰∑¬°Á√—∫‰«â·≈–„Àâ°“√ π—∫ πÿπ‡æ√“–∂◊Õ«à“≈“«‡ªìπª√–‡∑»√“™ ®÷ß àß‡ √‘¡„Àâµ—Èß ™ÿ¡™π À¡Ÿà∫â“π ·≈–‡¡◊Õß ‡ªìπ°“√¢¬“¬ª√–‡∑» ∑”„Àâ‡°Á∫ à«¬‰¥â¡“°¢÷Èπ ‡°‘¥‡¡◊Õßµà“ßÊ ¢÷πÈ „π¿“§Õ’ “π ·µà¿“¬À≈—ß ™“«≈“«„π¿“§Õ’ “π‡°‘¥§«“¡¢—¥·¬âß°—∫æ√–‡®â“Õπÿ«ß»å ·Ààß‡«’¬ß®—π∑πå ®π≈ÿ°≈“¡‡ªìπ ß§√“¡‰∑¬-≈“« ÿ¥∑â“¬ æ√–‡®â“Õπÿ«ß»åæà“¬·æâ ∂Ÿ°®—∫‡ªìπ‡™≈¬¡“¬—ß°√ÿß‡∑æœ ß§√“¡§√—È ß π—È π à ß º≈„Àâ ª √–™“™π≈“«∫“ß°≈ÿà ¡ Àπ’ ¿— ¬ ß§√“¡‰ªÕ¬Ÿà „π‡«’¬¥π“¡ ∫“ßæ«°∂Ÿ°°«“¥µâÕπ‰ª‰«â ∑’Ë ®—ßÀ«—¥™≈∫ÿ√’ ‡æ™√∫ÿ√’ °”·æß‡æ™√ ª√“®’π∫ÿ√’ ©–‡™‘ß‡∑√“ ·≈–π§√π“¬° „π ¡—¬√—™°“≈∑’Ë Ò æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–æÿ∑∏¬Õ¥øÑ“ ®ÿÃ“‚≈°¡À“√“™ ∑√ß®—¥°“√ª°§√ÕßÀ—«‡¡◊Õßª√–‡∑»√“™„π ¿“§µ–«—πÕÕ°‡ªìπ Û ‡¡◊Õß§◊Õ ‡«’¬ß®—π∑πå π§√æπ¡ ·≈– π§√®”ª“»—°¥‘Ï ‚¥¬„ÀâÀ—«‡¡◊Õßª√–‡∑»√“™ª°§√Õß°—π‡Õß ™ÿ¡™π™“«≈“«∑’Ë‡¢â“¡“µ—Èß∫â“π‡¡◊ÕßÕ¬Ÿà „π¿“§Õ’ “π®÷ß√—∫ «—≤π∏√√¡®“°≈â“π™â“ß‡√◊ËÕ¬¡“ ‡æ√“– ¿“æ∑“ß¿Ÿ¡‘»“ µ√å ‡Õ◊ÕÈ Õ”π«¬„Àâµ¥‘ µàÕ°—π‰¥â –¥«° ¡’‡æ’¬ß·¡àπÈ”‚¢ß°—πÈ ‡∑à“π—πÈ ª√–°Õ∫°—∫Õ”π“®∑“ß°“√‡¡◊Õß¢Õß°√ÿß»√’Õ¬ÿ∏¬“µÕπª≈“¬ ·≈–µâπ√—µπ‚° ‘π∑√å‡¢â“‰ª‰¡à∑—Ë«∂÷ß ∑”„Àâ™“«≈“«∑’ËÕæ¬æ

‡¢â“¡“Õ¬Ÿà „π¿“§Õ’ “π√—°…“«—≤π∏√√¡¥—Èß‡¥‘¡¢Õßµπ‡Õ“‰«â ‰¥â¥’∑—ßÈ «‘∂°’ “√¥”√ß™’«µ‘ ·≈–°“√∑Õºâ“‡æ◊ÕË „™â‡ªìπ‡§√◊ÕË ßπÿßà Àà¡ °≈ÿà¡§π‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬≈“« ‡ªìπª√–™“°√ à«π„À≠à¢Õß ¿“§Õ’ “π ·∫àßµ“¡°≈ÿà¡«—≤π∏√√¡‰¥â¥—ßπ’È °≈ÿà¡∑’ËÕ¬Ÿà „π ‡¢µ®—ßÀ«—¥‡≈¬ π§√√“™ ’¡“ ·≈–™—¬¿Ÿ¡‘ ¡’§«“¡„°≈â™‘¥°—∫ À≈«ßæ√–∫“ß °≈ÿà¡∑’Ë „π‡¢µ®—ßÀ«—¥ÀπÕß§“¬ Õÿ¥√∏“π’ ¢Õπ·°àπ ¡’§«“¡„°≈â™‘¥°—∫‡«’¬ß®—π∑πå °≈ÿà¡∑’ËÕ¬Ÿà „π‡¢µ ®—ßÀ«—¥Õÿ∫≈√“™∏“π’ ¬‚ ∏√ √âÕ¬‡ÕÁ¥ ¡ÿ°¥“À“√ ·≈– ¡À“ “√§“¡ ‚πâ¡‡Õ’¬ß‰ª∑“ß®”ª“»—°¥‘Ï „π∫√‘‡«≥¿“§Õ’ “π ¡‘‰¥â¡‡’ ©æ“–§π‰∑¬‡™◊ÕÈ “¬≈“«‡∑à“π—πÈ ·µà¬ß— ¡’ °≈ÿ¡à §π‰∑¬ ‡™◊ÈÕ “¬ºŸâ ‰∑¬ À√◊Õ ¿Ÿ‰∑ ´÷Ë ß µ—È ß ∂‘Ë π ∞“πÕ¬Ÿà „π‡¢µ®—ßÀ«—¥ π§√æπ¡ °≈π§√ ¡ÿ°¥“À“√ ·≈–°“Ã ‘π∏ÿå °≈ÿà¡™“«‡¢¡√ ¢à“ °√–‚ â °–‡≈‘ß à«¬ ‡©æ“–™“«‡¢¡√·≈– à«¬π—πÈ °√–®“¬ °—πÕ¬Ÿà „π∫√‘‡«≥®—ßÀ«—¥»√’ –‡°… ÿ√π‘ ∑√å ·≈–∫ÿ√√’ ¡— ¬å ™π‡ºà“ µà“ßÊ ‡À≈à“π’È¡’«—≤π∏√√¡‡ªìπ¢Õßµπ‡Õß ∑”„Àâ«—≤π∏√√¡ °“√∑Õºâ“·≈–°“√·µàß°“¬¡’√ªŸ ·∫∫‡©æ“–°≈ÿ¡à ·µ°µà“ß°—π‰ª ‡™àπ °≈ÿà¡ºŸâ ‰∑¬¥” ºŸâ ‰∑¬¢“« ·≈– ºŸâ ‰∑¬·¥ß π—Èπ‡§¬Õ¬Ÿà „π ¥‘π·¥π≈â“π™â“ß∑“ßΩíßò ´â“¬·¡àπÈ”‚¢ß°—∫æ«°°≈ÿ¡à ≈“«¡“°àÕπ ∑’Ë ® –Õæ¬æ‡¢â “ ¡“Õ¬Ÿà ¿ “§Õ’ “π¢Õß‰∑¬„π ¡— ¬ æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–π—Ëß‡°≈â“‡®â“Õ¬ŸàÀ—« √—™°“≈∑’Ë Û ‡¡◊ËÕ‡¢â“¡“Õ¬Ÿà „π ¿“§Õ’ “π®÷ßº ¡º “π«—≤π∏√√¡∫“ßÕ¬à“ß¢Õßµπ‡¢â“°—∫ «—≤π∏√√¡¢Õß™“«≈“« ·µà°Á¬—ß§ß√—°…“‡Õ°≈—°…≥å‡©æ“– °≈ÿà¡¢Õßµπ∫“ßÕ¬à“ß‰«â ‰ ¥â ‡™àπ «—≤π∏√√¡°“√∑Õºâ“∑’Ë ‚¥¥‡¥àπ∑—Èß ’ —π·≈–‡∑§π‘§«‘∏’°“√

°≈ÿà¡§π‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬‡¢¡√ ™π°≈ÿà¡πâÕ¬Õ’°°≈ÿà¡Àπ÷Ëß∑’Ë °√–®“¬‰ªµ—ßÈ ∂‘πË ∞“πÕ¬Ÿ∫à √‘‡«≥Õ’ “π„µâ ‰¥â·°à ®—ßÀ«—¥ ÿ√π‘ ∑√å »√’ –‡°… ·≈–∫ÿ√’√—¡¬å ™π°≈ÿà¡π’ÈÕæ¬æ¡“®“°ª√–‡∑»‡¢¡√ ‡¡◊ËÕª√–¡“≥æÿ∑∏»µ«√√…∑’Ë ÚÚ ∂÷ ß ÚÛ „°≈â‡§’¬ßæ«° à«¬ À√◊Õ °ÿ¬¯ ·µàªí®®ÿ∫—πÀ≈“¬À¡Ÿà∫â“πÕ¬Ÿà√à«¡°—∫§π‰∑¬ ‡™◊ÕÈ “¬≈“« °≈ÿ¡à §π‰∑¬‡™◊ÕÈ “¬‡¢¡√¡’«≤— π∏√√¡°“√∑Õºâ“ ∑’Ë¡’≈—°…≥–æ‘‡»…‡ªìπ¢Õßµ—«‡Õß§◊Õ„™â ’§àÕπ¢â“ß∑÷∫‰¡à ¥„ ‡À¡◊Õπ°≈ÿà¡§π‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬≈“«·≈–ºŸâ ‰∑¬ Õ¬à“ß‰√°Áµ“¡ °“√∑Õºâ“‡æ◊ËÕ„™â‡ªìπ‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡¢Õß ™“«Õ’ “π‡ªì π «‘ ∂’ ™’ «‘ µ ∑’Ë Õ¥§≈â Õ ß°— ∫ ¢π∫ª√–‡æ≥’ · ≈– §«“¡‡™◊ËÕ¢Õß°≈ÿà¡™π —ß§¡¢Õß™“«Õ’ “π à«π„À≠à¬—ß‡ªìπ —ß§¡·∫∫‡°…µ√°√√¡ ∑”π“‡ªìπÕ“™’æÀ≈—° µâÕß„™â‡«≈“ ‡æ“–ª≈Ÿ°®π°√–∑—Ëß‡°Á∫‡°’Ë¬« ˜ ∂÷ß ˘ ‡¥◊Õπ µ—Èß·µàƒ¥ŸΩπ ®π∂÷ßƒ¥ŸÀπ“« ™à«ßƒ¥Ÿ√âÕπª√–¡“≥ Û ∂÷ß ı ‡¥◊Õπ ™“« Õ’ “π®–‡µ√’¬¡Õÿª°√≥å ‡§√◊ÕË ß¡◊Õ‡§√◊ÕË ß„™â „π™’«µ‘ ª√–®”«—π √«¡∑—Èß∑”∫ÿ≠µ“¡ª√–‡æ≥’ ·≈–æ—°ºàÕπÀ¬àÕπ„®„π‚Õ°“ µà“ßÊ ™“«Õ’ “π¡’«‘∂’™’«‘µ‡ªìπ«ß®√‡™àππ’È∑ÿ°Ê ªï ‡¡◊ÕË ‡ √Á®Àπâ“π“ ºŸÀâ ≠‘ß∑Õºâ“ ºŸ™â “¬µ’‡À≈Á° ‡ªìπ§”°≈à“« ∑’Ë –∑âÕπ„Àâ‡ÀÁπ ¿“æ™’«‘µ·≈– —ß§¡¢Õß™“«Õ’ “π‰¥â¥’«à“ ºŸâÀ≠‘ßµâÕß∑Õºâ“‡ªìπ‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡ ‡™àπ ‡ ◊ÈÕ ´‘Ëπ(ºâ“πÿàß) ´àß (°“ß‡°ß) ‚ √àß ºâ“¢“«¡â“ ·≈–‡§√◊ÕË ß„™â „π™’«µ‘ ª√–®”«—π ‡™àπ ∑’πË Õπ À¡Õπ ¡ÿßâ ºâ“Àà¡ ·≈–¢Õß∂«“¬æ√–„πæ‘∏°’ √√¡ ß“π∫ÿ≠ª√–‡æ≥’µà“ßÊ ‡™àπ À¡Õπ ºâ“ÀàÕ§—¡¿’√å ºâ“°√“∫ ‡ªìπµâπ

ºâ“Õ—¡æ√¡ ®—ßÀ«—¥ ÿ√‘π∑√å “Amphrom” fabric from Surin.

117

ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡æ◊Èπ∫â“π

ÒÒ˜

°–‡æ’¬¥ (¿“…“∂‘Ëπ-‡Àπ◊Õ-Õ’ “π) ¿“™π– “π¥â«¬‰¡â ‰ºà ¬“«ª√–¡“≥ Ú ∂÷ß Û »Õ° Ÿß»Õ°‡»… „™â√Õß¥’¥πÿàπÀ√◊ÕΩÑ“¬„Àâ‡ªìπªÿ¬ °àÕππ”‰ªªíòπ‡ªìπ‡ âπ „π¿“§‡Àπ◊Õ “π¥â«¬µÕ°√Ÿª‰¢à ª“°°≈¡ °âπ¡π ¢π“¥„À≠à ‡ âπºà“»Ÿπ¬å°≈“ßª“°ª√–¡“≥ Àπ÷Ëß»Õ° ¬“« Õß»Õ° „™â«“ßµ–·§ß ¢≥–¥’¥ΩÑ“¬¥â«¬°ß¥’¥ΩÑ“¬ °–‡æ’¬¥ ∫“ß∂‘Ëπ‡√’¬° ‡æ’¬¥

™“«Õ’ “π®–ª≈Ÿ°ΩÑ“¬„πƒ¥ŸΩπ§«∫§Ÿà‰ª°—∫°“√∑”π“ ¡Õ ΩÑ“¬ À√◊Õ ¥Õ°ΩÑ“¬ ®–·°à‡°Á∫‰¥â√“«‡¥◊Õπæƒ»®‘°“¬π ‡¡◊ËÕ ‡°Á∫ ¡ÕΩÑ“¬·≈â«µâÕßµ“°„Àâ·Àâß ·¬°‡¡≈Á¥ΩÑ“¬ÕÕ°®“°ªÿ¬ ¥â«¬‡§√◊ËÕßÕ‘È«ΩÑ“¬ ·≈â«π”‰ª¥’¥„π °–‡æ’¬¥ ¥â«¬°ß¥’¥ΩÑ“¬ „Àâªÿ¬·µ° π”ªÿ¬‰ª≈âÕ¥â«¬‰¡â≈âÕ∫π°√–¥“π≈âÕ„Àâªÿ¬ΩÑ“¬ æ—π‰¡â≈âÕ‡ªìπ·∑àß‡≈Á°Ê ‡√’¬° µ‘È« ¥÷ß‰¡â≈âÕÕÕ° ‡Õ“µ‘È«√«¡ °—π‰«â „π§√ÿÀ√◊Õµ–°√â“ ·≈â«π”‰ª‡¢Áπ„Àâ‡ªìπ‡ âπ„¬¥â«¬À≈“ ‚¥¬¡—°®–√«¡°≈ÿà¡°—π∑”„πµÕπ°≈“ß§◊π√“«‡¥◊Õπ¡°√“§¡ ‡√’¬° ≈ß¢à«ß À√◊Õ ≈ß¢à«ß‡¢ÁπΩÑ“¬ ´÷Ëß‡ªìπª√–‡æ≥’ „πƒ¥Ÿ Àπ“« ¡—°‡≈◊Õ°«—πæ√–®—π∑√å‡µÁ¡¥«ß µÕπ∫à“¬Ê À≠‘ß “« ®–ÕÕ°‰ªÀ“øóπ À≈—ßÕ“À“√‡¬Áπ®–æ“°—π¡“°àÕ°Õß‰ø„µâ√à¡ ‰¡â À√◊Õ≈“π∫â“π ∫“ß·Ààß¬°æ◊Èπ Ÿß‡ªìπ∑’Ë‡¢ÁπΩÑ“¬ µ√ß °≈“ß‡ªìπ°Õß‰ø‡æ◊ËÕº‘ß‰ø°—πÀπ“«‰ª¥â«¬ ΩÉ“¬™“¬°Á®–∂◊Õ ‚Õ°“ π—Ëß§ÿ¬·≈–‡°’È¬«æ“√“ ’ À√◊ÕÕÕ°ª“°Ω“°√—°ΩÉ“¬À≠‘ß ¥â«¬ º≠“ À√◊Õ º≠“‡°’È¬« ´÷Ëß‡ªìπ§”§¡À√◊Õ°≈Õπ™“«∫â“π ≈ß¢à«ß ‡ªìπ«—≤π∏√√¡∑’Ë‡°’Ë¬«‡π◊ËÕß°—∫°“√∑Õºâ“¢Õß™“« Õ’ “π¡“™â“π“π ºâ“æ◊Èπ∫â“πÕ’ “π¡’√Ÿª·∫∫µ“¡°“√„™â Õ¬ §«“¡‡™◊ËÕ ·≈–¢π∫ª√–‡æ≥’∑’Ë ◊∫∑Õ¥°—π¡“ ‡™àπ ºâ“´‘Ëπ¢Õß§π‰∑¬ ‡™◊ÕÈ “¬≈“«®–π‘¬¡∑Õ≈“¬¢π“π°—∫µ—« µà“ß°—∫´‘πË ≈â“ππ“‰∑¬ ∑’Ëπ‘¬¡≈“¬¢«“ßµ—«·≈–πÿàß¬“«°√Õ¡‡∑â“ „π¢≥–∑’Ë§π‰∑¬ ‡™◊ÈÕ “¬≈“«π‘¬¡πÿàß Ÿß√–¥—∫‡¢à“À√◊Õ‡Àπ◊Õ‡¢à“ °“√µàÕÀ—«´‘Ëπ ·≈–µ’π´‘Ëπ ∂â“‡ªìπ´‘Ëπ‰À¡®–µàÕ¥â«¬‰À¡ ∂â“‡ªìπ´‘ËπΩÑ“¬°Á®– µàÕ¥â«¬ΩÑ“¬ µ’π´‘πË ®–·§∫ À—«´‘πË π‘¬¡µàÕ¥â«¬ºâ“‰À¡™‘πÈ ‡¥’¬« ∑Õ‡°Á∫¢‘¥‡ªìπ≈“¬ À√◊Õ∑Õ‡ªìπæ◊Èπ·¥ß «‘∏’πÿàß´‘Ëπ¢Õß™“«Õ’ “π∑—Ë«‰ª®–µà“ß‰ª®“°¿“§Õ◊Ëπ§◊Õ πÿßà ªÑ“¬Àπâ“‡°Á∫´àÕπµ–‡¢Á∫ ¬°‡«âπ°≈ÿ¡à §π‰∑¬‡™◊ÕÈ “¬‡¢¡√ „π∫√‘‡«≥Õ’ “π„µâ∑’Ë¡—°®–∑Õ√‘¡ºâ“‡ªìπ√‘È«Ê µà“ß ’µ“¡·π« µ–‡¢Á∫´‘Ëπ ®π¥Ÿ°≈¡°≈◊π°—∫µ–‡¢Á∫ ‡«≈“πÿàßµ–‡¢Á∫®–Õ¬Ÿà¢â“ß –‚æ° ´÷ßË µà“ß°—∫°“√πÿßà ´‘πË ¢Õß™“«≈â“ππ“ À√◊Õ™“«‰∑¬¬«π ∑’Ëπ‘¬¡πÿàßºâ“≈“¬¢«“ß∑’Ë¡’ Õßµ–‡¢Á∫ ‡¡◊ËÕπÿàß®–‡ÀÁπµ–‡¢Á∫ ∑—ßÈ ¢â“ßÀπâ“·≈–¢â“ßÀ≈—ß µà“ß®“°´‘πË ¢Õß™“«Õ’ “π‡™◊ÕÈ “¬≈“« ∑’Ë´àÕπµ–‡¢Á∫‰«â¥â“πÀπâ“®π‰¡à‡ÀÁπµ–‡¢Á∫ ‘Ëß‡À≈à“π’È‡ªìπ «—≤π∏√√¡°“√·µàß°“¬∑’Ë ◊∫µàÕ°—π¡“·µà ‚∫√“≥ πÕ°®“°°“√∑Õºâ“‡æ◊ÕË „™â‡ªìπ‡§√◊ÕË ßπÿßà Àà¡·≈â« ™“«Õ’ “π ¬— ß ∑Õºâ “ ‡æ◊Ë Õ „™â „ πæ‘ ∏’ ° √√¡·≈–§«“¡‡™◊Ë Õ ∂◊ Õ »√— ∑ ∏“„π æÿ∑∏»“ π“¥â«¬ ‡™àπ °“√∑Õºâ“ ”À√—∫∑”À¡Õπ ºâ“ÀàÕ §—¡¿’√å „∫≈“π ∏ßÀ√◊Õµÿß∂«“¬æ√–„πß“π∫ÿ≠µ“¡ª√–‡æ≥’ ‘Ëß‡À≈à“π’È –∑âÕπ„Àâ‡ÀÁπ§«“¡ —¡æ—π∏å√–À«à“ß°“√∑Õºâ“°—∫ ¢π∫ª√–‡æ≥’§«“¡‡™◊ËÕ·≈–»“ π“¢Õß™“«Õ’ “π ºâ“æ◊Èπ∫â“πÕ’ “π∑’Ë∑Õ°—π¡“·µà ‚∫√“≥¡’ Ú ™π‘¥§◊Õ ºâ“ ∑’∑Ë Õ®“°‡ âπ„¬ΩÑ“¬‡√’¬° ºâ“ΩÑ“¬ ºâ“∑’∑Ë Õ¥â«¬‰À¡‡√’¬° ºâ“‰À¡ ‡¡◊ÕË ‡√‘¡Ë ∑”π“™“«∫â“π®–ª≈Ÿ°ΩÑ“¬·≈–ª≈Ÿ°µâπÀ¡àÕπ‡æ◊ÕË ‡Õ“

ÒÒ¯

118

„∫¡“‡≈’È¬ßµ—«‰À¡ À≈—ß®“°‡°Á∫ ¡ÕΩÑ“¬ π”ªÿ¬ΩÑ“¬¡“ªíòπ ·≈– “«„Àâ‡ªìπ‡ âπ·≈â« µâÕßøÕ°·≈–¬âÕ¡ ’ ®“°π—πÈ ®÷ß∑ÕÀ√◊Õ µ”ÀŸ° ¥â«¬°’æË π◊È ∫â“π∑’‡Ë √’¬°«à“ ‚ŒàßÀŸ° À√◊Õ ‚Õàß°’Ë ºâ“æ◊πÈ ∫â“π Õ’ “π∑’Ë √Ÿâ ®— ° °— π ¥’ §◊ Õ ºâ “ ¡— ¥ À¡’Ë ºâ “ ¢‘ ¥ ºâ“ ®° ·≈–ºâ “ æ◊È π „π ¡—¬‚∫√“≥ºâ“‡À≈à“π’∑È Õ¢÷πÈ „™â „π™’«µ‘ ª√–®”«—π ·µàª®í ®ÿ∫π— ¡— ° ∑Õ‡ªì π º≈‘ µ ¿— ≥ ±å ‡ æ◊Ë Õ ®”Àπà “ ¬‡ªì π √“¬‰¥â ‡ √‘ ¡ ¢Õß §√Õ∫§√—« ºâ“¡—¥À¡’Ë ‡ªìπºâ“∑’Ë¡’™◊ËÕ‡ ’¬ß¢Õß™“«Õ’ “π ‡æ√“–¡’ ≈«¥≈“¬ ’ —π «¬ß“¡ ‡°‘¥®“°¢—ÈπµÕπ°“√∑Õ∑’Ë´—∫´âÕπ µ—Èß·µà°“√¡—¥¬âÕ¡‡ âπ„¬ ∂â“µâÕß°“√≈«¥≈“¬≈–‡Õ’¬¥µâÕß ¡—¥∂’ËÊ À“°µâÕß°“√ ’ —π·æ√«æ√“«®–µâÕß¡—¥·≈â«¬âÕ¡ À≈“¬§√—Èßµ“¡µ”·Àπàß ’µà“ßÊ ºŸâ¡—¥®–µâÕß¡’§«“¡‡¢â“„® ·≈–¡’§«“¡™”π“≠„π°“√«“ß√Ÿª·∫∫¢Õß≈«¥≈“¬ ·≈– À≈—°«‘∏’°“√º ¡ ’ ®÷ß®–‰¥âºâ“∑’Ë¡’≈«¥≈“¬·≈– ’ —π «¬ß“¡ ºâ“¡—¥À¡’Ë¡’∑—Èßºâ“ΩÑ“¬·≈–ºâ“‰À¡ À“°‡ªìπºâ“ΩÑ“¬π‘¬¡¬âÕ¡ ·≈–∑Õ‡ªìπ≈«¥≈“¬À¬“∫Ê ¥â«¬ ’¢“«°—∫ ’§√“¡‡∑à“π—πÈ ‡™àπ ºâ“¡—¥À¡’∫Ë “â πÀπÕß‡¢◊ÕË π¢â“ß µ”∫≈∑à“ Õß§Õπ Õ”‡¿Õ‡¡◊Õß ®—ßÀ«—¥¡À“ “√§“¡ ™“«Õ’ “π∑Õºâ“¡—¥À¡’∑Ë ß—È °≈ÿ¡à §π‰∑¬‡™◊ÕÈ “¬≈“« ºŸâ ‰∑¬ ·≈–‡¢¡√ °≈ÿà¡§π‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬≈“«∑’Ëπ‘¬¡∑Õºâ“¡—¥À¡’Ë¡’Õ¬Ÿà ¡“°∑’Ë Õ”‡¿Õ™π∫∑ ®—ßÀ«—¥¢Õπ·°àπ ·≈– Õ”‡¿Õ∫â“π‡¢«â“ ®—ßÀ«—¥™—¬¿Ÿ¡‘ à«π°≈ÿ¡à ºŸâ ‰∑¬π—πÈ ¡’°“√∑Õºâ“¡—¥À¡’ÕË ¬Ÿ∫à “â ß ·µà √Ÿª·∫∫¢Õß≈«¥≈“¬·≈– ’ —π§àÕπ¢â“ß‡√’¬∫ßà“¬‰¡à«‘®‘µ√ ´—∫´âÕππ—° ‡™àπ‡¥’¬«°—∫°≈ÿà¡§π‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬‡¢¡√ ·¡â«à“ ‡¥‘¡®–¡’°“√∑Õºâ“¡—¥À¡’Ë°—π¡“° ·≈–π‘¬¡„™â ’∑’Ë ‰¥â®“° ∏√√¡™“µ‘´÷Ëß¡’‡æ’¬ß‰¡à°’Ë ’ ∑”„Àâ ’°≈¡°≈◊π°—π ¿“¬À≈—ß¡’ °“√¡—¥À¡’Ë‡ªìπ≈«¥≈“¬·ª≈°Ê ·≈–¡’ ’ —π ¥„ ¡“°¢÷Èπ Õ“®‰¥â√—∫·∫∫Õ¬à“ß®“°°≈ÿà¡™“«‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬≈“«∑’Ë‡¢â“‰ªµ—Èß ∂‘Ëπ∞“πÕ¬Ÿà „πÀ¡Ÿà∫â“π„°≈â‡§’¬ß À√◊ÕÀ¡Ÿà∫â“π‡¥’¬«°—π πÕ°®“°∑Õºâ“¡—¥À¡’Ë·≈â« §π‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬‡¢¡√¬—ß∑Õ ºâ“‰À¡·∫∫Õ◊ËπÊ ¥â«¬ ‡™àπ ºâ“À“ß°√–√Õ° ∑’Ë∑Õ¥â«¬‡ âπ ‰À¡µà“ß ’§«∫°—π ºâ“ªŸ¡ ºâ“∑’Ë¡’≈—°…≥–°“√¡—¥À¡’Ëæ‘‡»… ‡™àπ‡¥’¬«°—π°—∫ ºâ“‚Œ≈ ºâ“ª√¡ (æ√¡) ºâ“‡™’¬¡ (≈ÿ¬, ‡™’¬¡) ´÷Ëßπ‘¬¡„™â „πÀ¡ŸàºŸâ ŸßÕ“¬ÿ ∑Õ°—π¡“°„π‡¢µ®—ßÀ«—¥ ÿ√‘π∑√å ∫ÿ√’√—¡¬å ·≈–»√’ –‡°… ºâ “ ¢‘ ¥ ‡ªìπºâ“Õ’°™π‘¥Àπ÷Ëß¢Õß™“«Õ’ “π∑’Ë∑Õ„Àâ‡°‘¥ ≈«¥≈“¬‚¥¬„™â ‰ ¡â · ºà π ·∫π∫“ßª“¥‚§â ß „Àâ ª ≈“¬·À≈¡ –°‘¥‡ âπ‡§√◊ÕÀ√◊Õ‡ âπ¬◊π„Àâ¬°¢÷Èπµ“¡√Ÿª≈—°…≥–≈«¥≈“¬ „π·µà≈–·∂«·µà≈–≈“¬ ·≈â«¬°‰¡â‡°Á∫¢‘¥µ—Èß¢÷Èπ‡æ◊ËÕæÿàß‡ âπ πÕπÀ√◊Õ‡ âπæÿàß¥â«¬°√– «¬ Õ¥‡¢â“‰ª√–À«à“ß‡ âπ¬◊π ∑” ‡™àππ’ È ≈—∫°—π‰ª®π°«à“®–‰¥â≈“¬·µà≈–·∂«®πÀ¡¥‡ âπ‡§√◊Õ ´÷ËßµâÕß„™â‡«≈“·≈–§«“¡Õ¥∑π¡“°‡™àπ‡¥’¬«°—π°—∫°“√ ∑Õºâ“¡—¥À¡’Ë ‡æ’¬ß·µà ‰¡à¬ÿàß¬“°´—∫´âÕπ‡∑à“

ºâ“¢“«¡â“ A piece of bathing cloth.

®“°°√√¡«‘∏’∑’ËµâÕß„™â ‰¡â‡°Á∫¬°‡ âπ‡§√◊Õ‚¥¬°“√π—∫ ‡ âπ‡§√◊Õ·≈â«‡°Á∫¬°µ“¡≈—°…≥–≈«¥≈“¬π’È‡Õß ®÷ß¡—°π‘¬¡ ‡√’¬°°—π∑—Ë«‰ª«à“ ‡°Á∫¢‘¥ ¡“°°«à“ ∑Õ¢‘¥ °“√‡°Á∫¢‘¥§◊Õ°“√ ‡°Á∫≈«¥≈“¬ à«π°“√∑Õπ—Èπ‡ªìπ¢—ÈπµÕπ∑’Ëæÿàß‡ âππÕπÀ√◊Õ ‡ âπæÿàß‡¢â“‰ª√–À«à“ß‡ âπ¬◊π ·≈â«°√–·∑°„Àâ‡π◊ÈÕºâ“·πàπ ºâ“¢‘¥∑’Ëπ‘¬¡‡°Á∫·≈–∑Õ°—π‚¥¬∑—Ë«‰ª¡’Õ¬Ÿà Û ™π‘¥ µ“¡ °“√„™â Õ¬§◊Õ ¢‘¥µ’π´‘Ëπ ¢‘¥À—«´‘Ëπ ·≈– ¢‘¥À¡Õπ ¢‘¥µ’π´‘πË „™âµÕà µ’πÀ√◊Õ‡™‘ß´‘πË ‡ªìπºâ“Àπâ“·§∫ „™âµÕà µ—« ´‘πË ∑’ Ë π—È ¡“°‰ª„Àâ¬“«πÿßà ‰¥âæÕ¥’ ·≈–™à«¬„Àâµπ’ ´‘πË ‰¡à¢“¥ßà“¬ ¢‘¥µ’π´‘Ëππ‘¬¡∑Õ¥â«¬ΩÑ“¬‡™àπ‡¥’¬«°—π°—∫´‘Ëπ ·µà¡—°®–¡’

’ —π·≈–≈«¥≈“¬¡“°°«à“ §«“¡°«â“ß¢Õß¢‘¥µ’π´‘Ëππ—Èπ‰¡à ·πàπÕπ ‚¥¬∑—Ë«‰ª®–°«â“ßª√–¡“≥ Ú ∂÷ß Û π‘È«¢÷Èπ‰ª ∑—Èßπ’È¢÷ÈπÕ¬Ÿà°—∫§«“¡¬“«¢Õßµ—«´‘Ëπ ¢‘¥À—«´‘Ëπ ºâ“¢‘¥∑’Ë „™âµàÕ™“¬∫π¢Õßµ—«´‘Ëπ¥â«¬‡Àµÿº≈ ‡¥’¬«°—π°—∫°“√µàÕµ’π´‘πË ¡—°∑Õ¥â«¬ºâ“‰À¡‡æ◊ÕË „Àâπßÿà ªÑ“¬æ—∫ ·≈–¢¡«¥‡¢â“°—∫‡Õ«‰¥â –¥«° ‰¡à‡®Á∫‡Õ« ·≈–™à«¬„Àâ™“¬æ° ·πàπ°«à“°“√„™âº“â ΩÑ“¬∑’¡Ë ‡’ π◊ÕÈ À¬“∫π‘¬¡∑Õ¥â«¬‰À¡æ◊πÈ ’·¥ß ·≈– ’¢“« ∂â“‡ªìπ≈«¥≈“¬¡—°„™â ’·¥ß ¢“« ·≈–‡À≈◊Õß ¢‘¥À¡Õπ ∑Õ¥â«¬ΩÑ“¬‡æ◊ÕË „™â∑”À¡Õπ‚¥¬‡©æ“– π‘¬¡∑” °—πÀ≈“¬·∫∫À≈“¬¢π“¥ ‡™àπ À¡Õπ ’Ë‡À≈’Ë¬¡ À¡Õπ‡°â“ 119

ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡æ◊Èπ∫â“π

ÒÒ˘

ºâ“·æ√«“ ∫â“π‚æπ Õ”‡¿Õ§”¡à«ß ®—ßÀ«—¥°“Ã ‘π∏ÿå A traditional shawl called “prae-wa” from Ban Pon, Amphoe Kham Muang, Kalasin.

·æ√«“ ºâ“™π‘¥Àπ÷Ëß„™âÀà¡‡©’¬ß‰À≈à À√◊Õ§≈ÿ¡‰À≈à‡™àπ‡¥’¬«°—∫ºâ“ ‰∫ ¡—°„™â„πß“π∫ÿ≠ª√–‡æ≥’À√◊Õß“π ”§—≠Ê ™“«ºŸâ ‰∑¬π‘¬¡∑Õ°—π¡“°§Ÿà°—∫ ºâ“·æ√¡π ºâ“√Ÿª ’Ë‡À≈’Ë¬¡®—µÿ√— À√◊Õ ’Ë‡À≈’Ë¬¡º◊πºâ“ ·µà∂â“æ—∫§√÷Ëß·≈â«°Á®–‡ªìπ®—µÿ√— ‰¥âæÕ¥’ „™â§≈ÿ¡»’√…–π“§ À√◊Õ„™â‡™Á¥Àπâ“ ºâ“·æ√«“·≈–ºâ“·æ√¡π ∑Õ°—π¡“°∑’Ë∫â“π‚æπ Õ”‡¿Õ§”¡à«ß ®—ßÀ«—¥°“Ã ‘π∏ÿå

(À¡Õπ ’‡Ë À≈’¬Ë ¡¢π“¥„À≠à) À¡Õπ “¡‡À≈’¬Ë ¡ (À¡Õπ¢«“π) ·≈–À¡Õπ™àÕß (À¡Õπ “¡‡À≈’Ë¬¡∑’Ë¬—¥πÿàπ‡ªìπ™àÕßÊ ) ¢‘¥ À¡Õπ®–°«â“ß°«à“¢‘¥µ’π´‘Ëπ·≈–¢‘¥À—«´‘Ëπ ‚∫√“≥π‘¬¡„™â æ◊Èπ ’¢“« ‡À≈◊Õß ‡°Á∫≈“¬ ’¥”À√◊Õ ’§√“¡ ¡—°«“ß≈“¬¢‘¥ æ“¥°≈“ßµ—«À¡Õπ·≈â«µàÕ¢â“ß∑—ßÈ ÕßÕÕ°‰ª¥â«¬ ’¢“« ·¥ß §√“¡ À√◊Õ¥”‡À¡◊Õπ°—π∑—Èß Õß¢â“ß °≈ÿà¡™π∑’Ëπ‘¬¡∑Õºâ“¢‘¥°—π¡“°§◊Õ °≈ÿà¡§π‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬ ≈“«„π®—ßÀ«—¥¡À“ “√§“¡ ¢Õπ·°àπ Õÿ¥√∏“π’ Õÿ∫≈√“™∏“π’ ™—¬¿Ÿ¡‘ ªí®®ÿ∫—πª√–¬ÿ°µå≈«¥≈“¬¢‘¥®“°√Ÿª·∫∫¥—Èß‡¥‘¡„Àâ‡¢â“ °—∫§«“¡π‘¬¡¢ÕßºŸâ∫√‘ ‚¿§ ‡™àπ ∑Õ‡ªìπ¬à“¡ °√–‡ªÜ“∂◊Õ °√–‡ªÜ“ –æ“¬ ºâ“ªŸ‚µä– ºâ“√Õß®“π ºâ“æ—π§Õ ºâ“§≈ÿ¡‰À≈à ·≈–ºâ“§≈ÿ¡‡µ’¬ß ‡ªìπµâπ ºâ“®° ºâ“∑’Ë „™â«∏‘ °’ “√‡°Á∫À√◊Õ®°‡ âππÕπæ‘‡»…¥â«¬¢π‡¡àπ ‡ªìπ™à«ßÊ ®÷ß¡’≈«¥≈“¬≈–‡Õ’¬¥·≈–¡’ ’ π— ¡“°°«à“ ¡’∑ß—È ™π‘¥ ∑’∑Ë Õ¥â«¬‰À¡·≈–ΩÑ“¬ ·µà „π¿“§Õ’ “ππ‘¬¡∑Õºâ“®°‰À¡ ‡™àπ ºâ“·æ√«“ ºâ“·æ√¡π ¢Õß§π‰∑¬‡™◊ÈÕ “¬ºŸâ ‰∑¬

ÒÚ

120

°“√∑Õºâ“æ◊Èπ∫â“π¢Õß™“«Õ’ “π ∑—Èßºâ“ΩÑ“¬·≈–ºâ“‰À¡ πÕ°®“°¡’°√√¡«‘∏’µà“ßÊ ·≈â« ™“«Õ’ “π¬—ß √â“ß√Ÿª·∫∫ ≈«¥≈“¬·≈– ’¢Õßºâ“„Àâ¡’§«“¡ß¥ß“¡ª√– “π°—∫§µ‘π‘¬¡ ¢Õß·µà≈–°≈ÿà¡™π ‚¥¬‡©æ“–°“√ÕÕ°·∫∫≈«¥≈“¬µà“ßÊ πÕ°‡Àπ◊Õ®“°™à«¬„Àâ‡°‘¥§«“¡ß“¡·≈â« ≈«¥≈“¬¢Õßºâ“¬—ß ∫àß∫Õ°∂÷ß ∂“π–∑“ß —ß§¡ ‡»√…∞°‘® §«“¡‡™◊ÕË ·≈–√ π‘¬¡ ¢ÕßºŸâ∑Õ·≈–ºŸâ „™â¥â«¬ ≈«¥≈“¬¢Õßºâ“æ◊Èπ∫â“π¿“§Õ’ “π ·∫à ß ‡ªì π Ù ª√–‡¿∑¥— ß π’È §◊ Õ ≈«¥≈“¬∑’Ë ‰ ¥â ¡ “®“°√Ÿ ª —µ«åµà“ßÊ ‡™àπ ·¡ßªÉÕßÀ√◊Õ·¡ßßÕ¥ µ–¢“∫ π“§‡°’È¬« π“§™Ÿ°“∫À≈«ß ¡â“ π°¬Ÿß ‰°à ‘ß‚µ °√–√Õ° ™â“ß π° ≈«¥≈“¬∑’Ë¡“®“°√Ÿª∑√ß¢Õßæ◊™ ‡™àπ ¥Õ° √âÕ¬ ¥Õ°µâπ ¥Õ°æ‘°ÿ≈ ¥Õ°ÕâÕ ¥Õ°æ«ß ¥Õ°®—π∑πå ≈«¥≈“¬ª√–¥‘…∞å ‡™àπ ≈“¬ “¡‰¡â „À≠à ≈“¬ Õß‰¡â ≈“¬¢âÕ‡§√◊Õ ≈“¬µ–‡¿“ À≈ß‡°“– ≈“¬°â“π„À≠à ≈“¬‚§¡‡®Á¥ ≈“¬ª√“ “∑ ≈“¬ ∏√√¡“ πå ≈“¬æÿà¡¢â“«∫‘≥±å ·≈– ≈«¥≈“¬‡∫Á¥‡µ≈Á¥ ‡™àπ ≈“¬¢‘¥µ“ ≈“¬¢âÕÀ«à“π ≈“¬À¡’Ë√à“¬ ≈“¬º ¡ ≈“¬À¡’Ë‡™‘ß ≈“¬Õ—¡æ√¡ πÕ°®“°∑Õºâ“‡ªìπ≈«¥≈“¬µà“ßÊ ¥—ß°≈à“«·≈â« ¬—ß∑Õºâ“ æ◊Èπ ’‡¥’¬«À√◊Õ Õß ’ „™âµ—¥‡ ◊ÈÕºâ“ °“ß‡°ß ‡™àπ ºâ“‚ √àß ºâ“¢“«¡â“ ºâ“·¬àß (ºâ“Àà¡) ºâ“≈“¬µ“À¡“°√ÿ° œ≈œ ºâ“∑’Ë∂◊Õ«à“‡ªìπ·æ√æ√√≥∑’Ë¡’§«“¡¡À—»®√√¬åÕ¬à“ß¬‘Ëß ™π‘¥Àπ÷ßË ¢Õß™“«Õ’ “π§◊Õ ºâ“‰À¡ °“√‡≈’¬È ß‰À¡ °“√ “«‰À¡ °“√¬âÕ¡ ·≈–°√√¡«‘∏’°“√∑Õºâ“‰À¡‡ªìπ¿Ÿ¡‘ªí≠≠“¢Õß™“« Õ’ “π∑’Ë —Ëß ¡ ◊∫∑Õ¥°—π¡“·µà ‚∫√“≥ ™“«Õ’ “ππ”‡ âπ„¬ ®“°µ—«‰À¡¡“∑Õ‡ªìπºâ“µ—Èß·µà‡¡◊ËÕ„¥‰¡à¡’À≈—°∞“π·πà™—¥ ·µà™“«Õ’ “π∑Õºâ“‰À¡®“°‰À¡æ◊Èπ∫â“π¡“™â“π“π °àÕπ∑’Ë √—∞∫“≈®– —Ëß´◊ÈÕ‰À¡®“°ª√–‡∑»≠’ËªÿÉπ‡¢â“¡“‡¡◊ËÕ¡’°“√ √â“ß ∑“ß√∂‰ø “¬π§√√“™ ’¡“¥â«¬‡Àµÿº≈∑“ß°“√‡¡◊Õß·≈– ∑“ß¬ÿ∑∏»“ µ√å „πªïæ.». ÚÙÙÚ µàÕ¡“„πªïæ.». ÚÙÙı °√–∑√«ß‡°…µ√“∏‘°“√·≈–°√–∑√«ß¡À“¥‰∑¬ °Á¬ß— ‰¡à∑√“∫ «à“¡’·À≈àß‡≈’È¬ß‰À¡Õ¬Ÿà „π¿“§Õ’ “π¡“‡ªìπ‡«≈“π“π·≈â« ‡æ√“–®“°√“¬ß“π°“√µ√«®°“√¡≥±≈π§√√“™ ’¡“¢Õß ¡‡¥Á®œ °√¡æ√–¬“¥”√ß√“™“πÿ¿“æ æ∫ ‘π§â“ àßÕÕ°¢Õß ∑âÕß∂‘ËπÕ’ “π¡’·µà¢ÕßªÉ“ ‰¡à¡’ ‘π§â“æ«°ºâ“‰À¡ ‰À¡¥‘∫ ·≈–‰À¡Õ◊ËπÊ ‡≈¬˘ µàÕ¡“√—∞∫“≈‰∑¬‰¥â√—∫§”·π–π”®“°√—∞∫“≈≠’ËªÿÉπ„Àâ àß‡ √‘¡Õÿµ “À°√√¡º≈‘µ‰À¡ ‚¥¬∂◊Õ√–∫∫°“√§â“‰À¡¥‘∫ ¢Õß≠’ËªÿÉπ‡ªìπ·∫∫Õ¬à“ß æ.».ÚÙÙı √—∞∫“≈≠’ËªÿÉπ àßπ“¬ §“‡¡∑“‚√ ‚∑¬“¡“ (Kametaro Toyama) ºŸ‡â ™’¬Ë «™“≠‡√◊ÕË ß ‰À¡‡¢â “ ¡“ ”√«®°“√‡≈’È ¬ ß·≈–º≈‘ µ ‰À¡∑’Ë π §√√“™ ’ ¡ “ √—∞∫“≈‰∑¬®÷ß‰¥â√—∫√“¬ß“π«à“‡°◊Õ∫∑ÿ°À¡Ÿà∫â“π„π¿“§Õ’ “π ¡’°“√∑Õºâ“‰À¡·≈–ºâ“ΩÑ“¬¥â«¬«‘∏¡’ —¥À¡’Ë ¢‘µ ®° œ≈œ Õ¬Ÿà °àÕπ·≈â«

„π ¡—¬√—™°“≈∑’Ë ı æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–®ÿ≈®Õ¡‡°≈â“ ‡®â“Õ¬ŸÀà «— ∑√ßæ—≤π“ª√–‡∑»µ“¡·∫∫Õ¬à“ßµ–«—πµ° §π‰∑¬ π‘¬¡·µàß°“¬·∫∫™“«µ–«—πµ°¡“°¢÷Èπ ‚¥¬‡©æ“–¢â“√“™ ∫√‘æ“√·≈–¢â“√“™°“√µâÕß·µàß‡§√◊ËÕß·∫∫ª√–®”°√¡ °Õß ·≈–Àπà«¬ß“πµà“ßÊ ®÷ßµâÕß„™âºâ“¡“°¢÷Èπ ‚¥¬‡©æ“–ºâ“‰À¡ ´÷Ëß‡ªìπºâ“™—Èπ¥’π—Èπ¡’ºŸâµâÕß°“√¡“° ¥—ßπ—Èπ ‡æ◊ËÕ≈¥°“√ —Ëß´◊ÈÕ ºâ“¡“®“°µà“ßª√–‡∑» √—∞∫“≈®÷ß àß‡ √‘¡„Àâ¡’°“√‡≈’È¬ß‰À¡ ª≈Ÿ°À¡àÕπ ·≈–∑Õºâ“‰À¡¢÷Èπ„π®—ßÀ«—¥π§√√“™ ’¡“ µ“¡ §”·π–π”¢ÕßºŸâ‡™’Ë¬«™“≠™“«≠’ËªÿÉπ ‚¥¬‡≈’È¬ß‰À¡·≈–º≈‘µ ‡ âπ„¬‰À¡µ“¡·∫∫≠’ËªÿÉπ æ√âÕ¡∑—Èß —Ëß´◊ÈÕæ—π∏ÿå ‰À¡¡“®“° ª√–‡∑»≠’ËªÿÉπ¥â«¬ ‡æ√“–æ—π∏ÿå ‰À¡¢Õß≠’ËªÿÉπ‡ªìπ‰À¡∑’Ë „Àâ º≈º≈‘µ¡“°°«à“‰À¡æ—π∏ÿåæ◊Èπ‡¡◊Õß∑’Ë™“«∫â“π‡≈’È¬ßÕ¬Ÿà°àÕπ ´÷Ëß‡ªìπ‰À¡∑’Ë „Àâ‡ âπ„¬πâÕ¬·≈– —Èπ µàÕ¡“ª√–¡“≥ªïæ.». ÚÙıÒ ‰¥â‡°‘¥‚√§√–∫“¥‰À¡§√—Èß„À≠à ®π∑”„Àâæ—π∏ÿå ‰À¡„π ¿“§Õ’ “π·∑∫®– Ÿ≠æ—π∏ÿå ¥—ßπ—Èπ„πªïæ.». ÚÙıÚ √—∞∫“≈®÷ß√◊ÈÕøóôπ°“√‡≈’È¬ß‰À¡ ·≈–∑Õºâ“‰À¡Õ¬à“ß®√‘ß®—ß¢÷πÈ Õ’°§√—ßÈ Àπ÷ßË ‚¥¬ °√¡À¡◊πË æ‘‰™¬ ¡À‘π∑‚√¥¡ (æ√–Õß§å‡®â“‡æÁ≠æ—≤πæß»å) Õ∏‘∫¥’ °√¡™à“ß‰À¡ ‰¥â°Õà µ—ßÈ ‚√ß‡√’¬π™à“ß‰À¡ ¢÷Èπ„π«—ß„À¡à √–ª∑ÿ¡ µàÕ¡“ ‚√ß‡√’¬ππ’È‡ª≈’Ë¬π™◊ËÕ‡ªìπ ‚√ß‡√’¬π‡°…µ√ °“√ àß‡ √‘¡°“√ ‡≈’È ¬ ß‰À¡·≈–∑Õºâ “ ‰À¡π’È ‰ ¥â «à “ ®â “ ß™“«≠’Ë ªÿÉ π ¡“‡ªì π §√Ÿ ·π–π”°“√‡≈’È¬ß‰À¡ °“√ “«‰À¡·≈–°“√∑Õºâ“‰À¡ ‚¥¬ ¢¬“¬ÕÕ°‰ª∑’ËÕ”‡¿Õªí°∏ß™—¬ ®—ßÀ«—¥π§√√“™ ’¡“ ·≈– ®—ßÀ«—¥∫ÿ√√’ ¡— ¬å ‡©æ“–∑’ªË °í ∏ß™—¬¡’‡§√◊ÕË ß “«‰À¡·∫∫≠’ªË πÿÉ ∂÷ß Ù¯ ‡§√◊ÕË ß ™à«¬„Àâ™“«∫â“π “«‰À¡‰¥â√«¥‡√Á«·≈–‰¥â‡ âπ‰À¡ ¡Ë”‡ ¡Õ°«à“°“√ “«‰À¡·∫∫æ◊πÈ ∫â“π¢Õß‰∑¬ π—∫«à“Õ”‡¿Õ ªí ° ∏ß™— ¬ ‡ªì π ·À≈à ß ”§— ≠ ∑’Ë ‡ √‘Ë ¡ µâ π æ— ≤ π“°“√∑Õºâ “ ‰À¡ ®“°·∫∫æ◊Èπ∫â“π¡“‡ªìπ°“√º ¡º “π°—∫·∫∫·ºπ∑’Ëπ”¡“ ®“°≠’ËªÿÉπ ·µàπà“‡ ’¬¥“¬«à“‡¡◊ËÕ°√¡À¡◊Ëπæ‘‰™¬¡À‘π∑‚√¥¡ ‘πÈ æ√–™π¡å·≈â« °Á‰¡à¡º’ Ÿâ „¥ π„® àß‡ √‘¡„Àâ™“«∫â“π‡≈’¬È ß‰À¡ ª≈Ÿ°À¡àÕπ ·≈–∑Õºâ“‰À¡µ“¡·∫∫Õ¬à“ß∑’Ë∑√ß√‘‡√‘Ë¡‰«âµàÕ‰ª À¡Ÿ∫à “â π∑’¡Ë ™’ Õ◊Ë ‡ ’¬ß„π°“√∑Õºâ“‰À¡„πÕ”‡¿Õªí°∏ß™—¬¡“ ·µà‚∫√“≥§◊Õ ∫â“π®–‚ª– (®–‚ª– ¿“…“≈“«À¡“¬∂÷ß¡–æ√â“«) ™ÿ¡™π‡≈Á°Ê ∑’Ë¢¬“¬µ—«‡ªìπ™ÿ¡™π„À≠à®π‡ªìπ‡¡◊Õßªí° ·≈– ‡ªìπÕ”‡¿Õªí°∏ß™—¬„π∑’ Ë ¥ÿ ™ÿ¡™π®–‚ª– (æ.».ÚıÛˆ ‡ª≈’¬Ë π ‡ªìπ∫â“π∏ß™—¬) ‡ªìπ™ÿ¡™π‡™◊ÈÕ “¬≈“«∑’ËÕæ¬æ¡“®“° ‡«’¬ß®—π∑πåµ—Èß·µà ¡—¬ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–‡®â“µ“° ‘π¡À“√“™ µàÕ¡“ ™ÿ¡™ππ’È ‰¥â°≈“¬‡ªìπ‡¡◊ÕßÀπâ“¥à“π°“√§â“¢ÕßÕ’ “π ™“« ªí°∏ß™—¬®÷ß‰¡àπ‘¬¡‡≈’È¬ß‰À¡‡Õß À“°·µà®–´◊ÈÕ‡ âπ‰À¡¡“ ®“°∂‘πË Õ◊πË °“√∑Õºâ“¢Õß™“«ªí°∏ß™—¬·∫àßÕÕ°‡ªìπ Û √–¬– §◊Õ √–¬–·√°™“«∫â“π´◊ÈÕ‡ âπ„¬¡“®“°‡¡◊Õßµà“ßÊ „π ¿“§ Õ’ “π ‡™àπ ¢Õπ·°àπ ¡À“ “√§“¡ ·≈–∫ÿ√’√—¡¬å œ≈œ ´÷Ëß æàÕ§â“π”¡“¢“¬ ·≈â«∑Õ‡ªìπºâ“¢“¬À“°”‰√‡ªìπ√“¬‰¥â¢Õß

¢‘¥Àπâ“À¡Õπ ∫â“πªÉ“µ‘È« ®—ßÀ«—¥¬‚ ∏√ “Khit” pattern used to decorate a small pillow from Ban Pa Tio, Yasothon.

§√Õ∫§√—« µàÕ¡“ ¡—¬°àÕπ ß§√“¡‚≈°§√—Èß∑’Ë Ú ™ÿ¡™π¡’ ¢π“¥„À≠à¢÷Èπ ¡’π“¬∑ÿπ´◊ÈÕ‡ âπ‰À¡‰«â·≈â«®â“ß™“«∫â“π∑Õ ™“«∫â“π‡√’¬°«à“ √—∫®â“ß‡®ä° (∑Õºâ“„Àâ§π®’π) ‚¥¬™“«∫â“π ‰¥â§à“·√ß «‘∏’°“√∑Õ°Á¬—ß„™â°’Ë∑Õ¡◊ÕÀ√◊Õ°’Ëæ◊Èπ∫â“π ‡¡◊ËÕ¡’°“√ ∑Õºâ “ ¡“°¢÷È π ®÷ ß ∑”„Àâ ‡ ¡◊ Õ ßªí ° ∏ß™— ¬ ‡ªì π »Ÿ π ¬å ° ≈“ß¢Õß µ≈“¥ºâ“∑’ Ë ”§—≠¢ÕßÕ’ “π ¥—ßπ—πÈ À≈—ß ß§√“¡‚≈°§√—ßÈ ∑’Ë Ú æàÕ§â“®÷ßπ”°’°Ë √–µÿ°‡¢â“¡“„Àâ™“«∫â“π∑Õ ∑”„Àâ∑Õ‰¥â√«¥‡√Á« ·≈–‰¥â ª √‘ ¡ “≥¡“° ‡ªì π °“√æ— ≤ π“°“√∑Õºâ “ ¢Õß™“« ªí°∏ß™—¬‰ªÕ’°√–¥—∫Àπ÷Ëß °àÕπ∑’Ë®–‡ª≈’Ë¬π¡“‡ªìπ°“√∑Õ„π √–∫∫Õÿµ “À°√√¡‡¡◊ËÕª√–¡“≥ Û ªï∑’Ëºà“π¡“ ¡’‚√ßß“π ∑Õºâ“‰À¡®”π«π¡“°‡¢â“¡“µ—Èß„π‡¢µ ÿ¢“¿‘∫“≈ªí°∏ß™—¬ πÕ°®“°‚√ßß“π¢π“¥„À≠à·≈â«¬—ß¡’Õÿµ “À°√√¡¢π“¥ ¬àÕ¡∑’Ë∑”„π§√Õ∫§√—«¥â«¬ ∑”„Àâªí°∏ß™—¬°≈“¬‡ªìπ‡¡◊Õß Õÿµ “À°√√¡∑Õºâ“‰À¡∑’Ë ”§—≠¢ÕßÕ’ “π §«“¡‡ª≈’Ë ¬ π·ª≈ß∑’Ë ‡ °‘ ¥ ¢÷È π °— ∫ ºâ “ ‰À¡ªí ° ∏ß™— ¬ §◊ Õ √–∫∫Õÿµ “À°√√¡‰¥â∑”≈“¬≈—°…≥–‡©æ“–¢Õßºâ“∑Õ¡◊Õ∑’Ë¡’ ’ π— πÿ¡à π«≈ ¬âÕ¡¥â«¬ ’∏√√¡™“µ‘ ‡π◊ÕÈ ºâ“¡’ª¡∑’‡Ë °‘¥®“°°“√ µàÕ°—π¢Õß‡ âπ‰À¡ ·≈–¢π“¥¢Õß‡ âπ‰À¡∑’Ë ‰¡à‡∑à“°—π ‡π◊ÈÕ ºâ“®÷ß‰¡à‡√’¬∫‡ ¡Õ°—π ´÷Ëß‡ªìπ≈—°…≥–‡¥àπ¢Õßºâ“∑Õ¡◊Õ ªí®®ÿ∫—π‡Õ°≈—°…≥å‡©æ“–¢Õßºâ“‰À¡ªí°∏ß™—¬ Ÿ≠‰ªæ√âÕ¡ °—∫¿Ÿ¡‘ªí≠≠“∑’Ë ◊∫∑Õ¥°—π¡“®“°∫√√æ™π Õ¬à“ß‰√°Áµ“¡ ¿“§µ–«—πÕÕ°‡©’¬ß‡Àπ◊ÕÀ√◊Õ¿“§Õ’ “π ‡ªìπ·À≈àßº≈‘µºâ“æ◊Èπ∫â“π∑’Ë ”§—≠¢Õß‰∑¬¡“·µà ‚∫√“≥ ·¡â∑ÿ°«—ππ’È™“«Õ’ “π°Á¬—ß∑Õºâ“°—π·æ√àÀ≈“¬ À≈—ß®“°∑’Ë ¡Ÿ≈π‘∏‘ àß‡ √‘¡»‘≈ª“™’ææ‘‡»… „π ¡‡¥Á®æ√–π“ß‡®â“ ‘√‘°‘µ‘Ï æ√–∫√¡√“™‘π’π“∂ ‰¥â àß‡ √‘¡„Àâ√“…Æ√∑Õºâ“‡ªìπ√“¬‰¥â æ‘‡»…À≈—ßƒ¥Ÿ∑”π“ ·≈–√—∞∫“≈ àß‡ √‘¡„Àâºâ“æ◊Èπ∫â“π‡ªìπ ‘π§â“ Àπ÷Ëßµ”∫≈ Àπ÷Ëßº≈‘µ¿—≥±å

121

ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡æ◊Èπ∫â“π

ÒÚÒ

ºâ“‡°“–¬Õ ®—ßÀ«—¥ ß¢≈“ Ko Yo fabrics from Songkhla.

ÒÚÚ

122

ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡ æ◊Èπ∫â“π¿“§„µâ ∫√‘‡«≥¥‘π·¥π¿“§„µâ¢Õßª√–‡∑»‰∑¬ „π ¡—¬µâπ √—µπ‚° ‘π∑√å‡√’¬° À—«‡¡◊Õßªí°…å „µâ ¡’§«“¡ ”§—≠‡™àπ‡¥’¬« °—∫À—«‡¡◊ÕßÕ◊ËπÊ ·≈–‡ªìπ¥‘π·¥π∑’Ë¡’∑√—æ¬“°√∏√√¡™“µ‘ Õÿ ¥ ¡ ¡∫Ÿ √ ≥å ‡ªì π Àπâ “ ¥à “ π¢Õß‰∑¬ æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á ® æ√–®Õ¡‡°≈â“‡®â“Õ¬ŸàÀ—« (æ.».ÚÛ˘Ù ∂÷ß ÚÙÒÒ) √—™°“≈∑’Ë Ù ∑√ß„Àâ§«“¡ ”§—≠°—∫À—«‡¡◊Õßªí°…å „µâ¡“° ®÷ß‡ ¥Á®ª√–æ“ ∂÷ß Õß§√—Èß„πæ.».ÚÙÚ ·≈– æ.».ÚÙˆ ∑√ß®—¥√–∫∫ °“√ª°§√ÕßÀ—«‡¡◊Õßªí°…å „µâ „À¡à ‚¥¬„Àâ§«“¡√—∫º‘¥™Õ∫ ·≈–Õ”π“®‡¥Á ¥ ¢“¥¢÷È π Õ¬Ÿà °— ∫ °√ÿ ß ‡∑æœ µà Õ ¡“„π ¡— ¬ √—™°“≈∑’Ë ı æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–®ÿ≈®Õ¡‡°≈â“‡®â“Õ¬ŸàÀ—«∑√ß ªØ‘√Ÿª°“√ª°§√ÕßÀ—«‡¡◊Õßµà“ßÊ ¬°‡≈‘°∞“π–‡®â“æ√–¬“ ¡À“π§√¢Õßªí°…å „µâ ·≈â«°√–®“¬À—«‡¡◊Õß‡À≈à“π—ÈπÕÕ°¡“ „π√Ÿ ª ¢Õß¡≥±≈ ‰¥â · °à ¡≥±≈¿Ÿ ‡ °Á µ ¡≥±≈™ÿ ¡ æ√ ( ÿ√“…Æ√å∏“π’) ¡≥±≈π§√»√’∏√√¡√“™ ·≈– ¡≥±≈ªíµµ“π’ ¡≥±≈‡À≈à“π’È¢÷Èπµ√ßµàÕ°√ÿß‡∑æœ ·≈–„π∑’Ë ÿ¥¡≥±≈ µà“ßÊ °Á∂°Ÿ ≈¥∞“π–‡ªìπ®—ßÀ«—¥ À≈—ß‡ª≈’¬Ë π·ª≈ß°“√ª°§√Õß „πæ.». ÚÙ˜ı ª√–™“°√¢Õß¿“§„µâ¡’«—≤π∏√√¡º ¡º “π√–À«à“ß «—≤π∏√√¡∑âÕß∂‘Ëπ°—∫«—≤π∏√√¡µà“ß™“µ‘ ‡™àπ ®’π Õ‘π‡¥’¬ ·≈–Õ“À√—∫∑’Ë‡¢â“¡“§â“¢“¬°—∫™πæ◊Èπ‡¡◊Õß ·≈â«∂à“¬∑Õ¥ «—≤π∏√√¡¢Õßµπ„Àâ·°à™πæ◊Èπ‡¡◊Õß à«πÀπ÷Ëß∑’Ë¡’‡™◊ÈÕ “¬ ¡“‡≈¬å Õ’°∑“ßÀπ÷Ëß‡°‘¥¢÷Èπ®“°°“√‡§≈◊ËÕπ¬â“¬ª√–™“°√ ·≈–™ÿ¡™π¥â«¬‡Àµÿº≈∑“ß°“√‡¡◊Õß ‡™àπ æ.».ÚÛıÙ ‡®â“‡¡◊Õß π§√»√’∏√√¡√“™‰ªª√“∫¢∫∂∑’Ë‡¡◊Õß‰∑√∫ÿ√’ ·≈â«°«“¥µâÕπ §√Õ∫§√—«™“«‰∑√∫ÿ√¡’ “‰«â∑‡’Ë ¡◊Õßπ§√»√’∏√√¡√“™ „π®”π«π π—Èπ¡’™à“ßΩï¡◊ÕÀ≈“¬ª√–‡¿∑ª–ªπ¡“¥â«¬ ‡™àπ ™à“ß∑Õß ™à“ß‡ß‘π ™à“ß‡§√◊ËÕßª√–¥—∫ ™à“ß∑Õºâ“ ™à“ß‡À≈à“π’È ‰¥âµ—Èß ∂‘Ëπ∞“πÕ¬Ÿà „π∫√‘‡«≥‡¡◊Õßπ§√»√’∏√√¡√“™ ‡æ◊ËÕª√–°Õ∫ Õ“™’æµ“¡§«“¡∂π—¥¢Õßµπ µàÕ¡“™à“ß∑Õºâ“™“«‰∑√∫ÿ√’‰¥â ∂à“¬∑Õ¥«‘∏’°“√∑Õ ºâ“¬°¥Õ° „Àâ‡¥Á° “« ·≈–≈Ÿ°À≈“π¢Õß °√¡°“√‡¡◊Õß µ≈Õ¥®π™“«æ◊πÈ ‡¡◊Õß∑’·Ë µà‡¥‘¡‡§¬∑Õ·µàº“â æ◊πÈ ¡“∑Õºâ“¬°¥Õ°®π ºâ“¬°‡¡◊Õßπ§√»√’∏√√¡√“™ À√◊Õ ºâ“¬°‡¡◊Õßπ§√ ‰¥â√—∫°“√¬Õ¡√—∫«à“‡ªìπºâ“‡π◊ÈÕ¥’ ’ —π·≈– ≈«¥≈“¬ «¬ß“¡ °≈à“«°—π«à“‡®â“æ√–¬“π§√»√’∏√√¡√“™ π„®°“√∑Õºâ “ ¡“° ®π∂÷ ß ¢—È π ‡§¬¡’ ‡ √◊Ë Õ ßÀ¡“ß„®°— ∫ ‡®â“‡¡◊Õß ß¢≈“„πªïæ.».ÚÛÚ ‡æ√“–‡®â“æ√–¬“π§√œ —ßË „Àâ °√¡°“√‡¡◊Õß‰ª‡°≥±å‡Õ“™à“ß∑Õºâ“, ∫ÿµ√ “«¢Õß°√¡°“√ ‡¡◊Õß ß¢≈“ ·≈–∫ÿµ√ “«¢Õß√“…Æ√‡¡◊Õß ß¢≈“‡¢â“¡“‰«â∑’Ë ‡¡◊Õßπ§√»√’∏√√¡√“™ À≈«ß ÿ«√√≥§’√’ ¡∫—µ‘ ‡®â“‡¡◊Õß

ß¢≈“‰¡àæÕ„® ®÷ß°√“∫∫—ß§¡∑Ÿ≈øÑÕßæ√–‡®â“°√ÿß∏π∫ÿ√’«à“ ‡®â“æ√–¬“π§√»√’∏√√¡√“™ „™âÕ”π“®°—∫™“«‡¡◊Õß ß¢≈“ ‡°‘π¢Õ∫‡¢µÒ ‡Àµÿ°“√≥å∑“ßª√–«—µ»‘ “ µ√å¥ß— °≈à“« · ¥ß„Àâ‡ÀÁπ«à“°“√ ∑Õºâ“¬°∑’Ë‡¡◊Õßπ§√»√’∏√√¡√“™‰¥â‡√‘Ë¡µâπ¡“µ—Èß·µà ¡—¬ °√ÿß∏π∫ÿ√’·≈â«∂à“¬∑Õ¥ ◊∫µàÕ°—π¡“®πªí®®ÿ∫—π ‡√‘Ë¡®“°°“√ ∑Õºâ“¬° ”À√—∫„™â „π§√Õ∫§√—«‡®â“‡¡◊Õß ·≈–°√¡°“√‡¡◊Õß ™—Èπ Ÿß °àÕπ∑’Ë®–·æ√àÀ≈“¬‰ª Ÿà™“«‡¡◊Õß·≈–ª√–™“™π∑—Ë«‰ª „π ¡—¬‚∫√“≥ ™“«‡¡◊Õßπ§√»√’∏√√¡√“™πÿàßºâ“‚®ß °√–‡∫π∑—ßÈ À≠‘ß·≈–™“¬ ‚¥¬‡©æ“–‡®â“π“¬ºŸÀâ ≠‘ßπ—πÈ πÿßà ºâ“ ¬°®’∫„πæ‘∏’ ”§—≠Ê à«π‡®â“æ√–¬“π§√œ π—Èππÿàßºâ“¬°∑Õß ´÷Ëß‡ªìπºâ“™—Èπ Ÿß∑’Ë „™â‡©æ“–‡®â“‡¡◊Õß·≈–¢â“√“™°“√™—Èπ Ÿß ‡∑à“π—Èπ ºâ“¬°∑Õß®÷ß‡ªìπºâ“∑’Ë‡®â“æ√–¬“π§√œ ¡—° àß‡¢â“¡“ ∂«“¬‡®â“π“¬„π°√ÿß‡∑æœ ‡æ√“–‡ªìπ¢Õß¥’¢Õß‡¡◊Õßπ§√ »√’∏√√¡√“™ ºâ“¬°∑Õß‡ªìπºâ“∑’Ë∑Õæ‘‡»… ‰¡à¡’¢“¬°—π∑—Ë«‰ª ¥—ßª√“°Ø„π√“¬ß“π‡°’Ë¬«°—∫º≈ª√–‚¬™πå°“√∑”¡“À“°‘π ·≈– ‘π§â“¢Õß‡¡◊Õßπ§√»√’∏√√¡√“™„πÀπ—ß ◊Õ™’«‘«—≤πå ¢Õß ¡‡¥Á®æ√–‡®â“∫√¡«ß»å‡∏Õ ‡®â“øÑ“¿“≥ÿ√—ß…’ «à“ß«ß»å °√¡æ√–¬“¿“≥ÿæ—π∏ÿ«ß»å«√‡¥™ §√“«‡ ¥Á®‰ªµ√«®√“™°“√ À—«‡¡◊Õßªí°…å „µâ ‡¡◊ÕË ªïæ.». ÚÙÚ˜ µÕπÀπ÷ßË «à“ ç.. √“§“ ‘ßË ¢Õß ∑’Ë¢“¬„πµ≈“¥ ºâ“πÿàß ºâ“Àà¡ ºâ“¬°‰À¡ ºâ“¬°∑Õß‰¡à¡’¢“¬ „πµ≈“¥ ‡ªìπ¢Õß∑Õ‡©æ“–ºŸâ —Ëß®–´◊ÈÕ ·≈–‡ªìπ¢Õß∑”„π ∫â“πºŸ«â “à √“™°“√‡¡◊Õß °√¡°“√ ºŸÀâ ≈—°ºŸ„â À≠à‡ªìπµâπ. .é ÒÒ ‡¡◊Õß π§√»√’∏√√¡√“™‡ªìπ·À≈àßº≈‘µºâ“ ”§—≠¢Õß¿“§„µâ ¡’ºâ“ À≈“¬™π‘¥ ‡™àπ ºâ“¡à«ß ºâ“√‘È« ºâ“µ“ ºâ“æ◊Èπ ºâ“¢“«¡â“‰À¡ ºâ“¢“«¡â“¥â“¬ ºâ“‡™Á¥ª“° ºâ“‚ √àß‰À¡ «“ß¢“¬„πµ≈“¥ πÕ°‡Àπ◊Õ®“°ºâ“¬°∑’ËµâÕß —Ëß∑Õ‡ªìπæ‘‡»… µàÕ¡“¿“«–‡»√…∞°‘® °“√‡¡◊Õß ·≈– —ß§¡‡ª≈’Ë¬π‰ª ‰¡à‡Õ◊ÈÕÕ”π«¬„Àâ°“√∑Õºâ“¥”‡π‘πµàÕ‰ª‰¥â ª√‘¡“≥ºâ“∑Õ ·≈–ºŸâ∑’Ë¡’§«“¡ “¡“√∂„π°“√∑Õºâ“®÷ß≈¥≈ß‡ªìπ≈”¥—∫ ®π À“ºâ“¬°µ“¡·∫∫·ºπ¥—Èß‡¥‘¡¢Õß‡¡◊Õßπ§√»√’∏√√¡√“™‰¥â ¬“° ‡æ√“–°“√∑Õºâ“¬°µâÕß„™â‡«≈“¡“° ·≈–®”Àπà“¬‰¥âπÕâ ¬ ∑”„ÀâºŸâ∑’Ë¡’§«“¡ “¡“√∂∑Õºâ“À—π‰ªª√–°Õ∫Õ“™’æÕ◊Ëπ∑’Ë¡’ √“¬‰¥â¥’°«à“ ®π∂÷ß æ.».ÚıÒ˘ ‡√◊Õπ®”°≈“ß °√¡°“√ æ—≤π“™ÿ¡™π »Ÿπ¬å«—≤π∏√√¡¿“§„µâ ·≈–«‘∑¬“≈—¬§√Ÿπ§√ »√’ ∏ √√¡√“™ æ¬“¬“¡√◊È Õ øóô π °“√∑Õºâ “ ¬°¢Õß®— ß À«— ¥ π§√»√’∏√√¡√“™¢÷ÈπÕ’°§√—ÈßÀπ÷Ëß ‚¥¬ àß‡ √‘¡„Àâª√–™“™π „πµ”∫≈§«πæ—ß Õ”‡¿Õ√àÕπæ‘∫Ÿ≈¬å µ”∫≈≈“π °“ Õ”‡¿Õ ≈“π °“ µ”∫≈∑à“¢÷πÈ Õ”‡¿Õ∑à“»“≈“ µ”∫≈™â“ß°≈“ß Õ”‡¿Õ ©«“ß µ”∫≈π“ “√ µ”∫≈¡–¡à«ß Õßµâπ Õ”‡¿Õ‡¡◊Õß ®—ßÀ«—¥ π§√»√’∏√√¡√“™ ∑Õºâ“¬°¥Õ°∑’Ëª√–¬ÿ°µå®“°·∫∫¥—Èß‡¥‘¡ 123

ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡æ◊Èπ∫â“π

ÒÚÛ

ºâ“¬°‡¡◊Õßπ§√ ®—ßÀ«—¥π§√»√’∏√√¡√“™ The traditional fabric with an exquisite design called “pha yok” from Nakhon Si Thammarat.

„Àâ‡¢â“°—∫§«“¡µâÕß°“√¢ÕßºŸâ∫√‘ ‚¿§ ≈“¬‚∫√“≥°Á¬—ß¡’∑Õ Õ¬Ÿà∫â“ß ‡™àπ ≈“¬√“™«—µ√ ≈“¬ ¡ÿ° À√◊Õ ≈“¬µ“ ¡ÿ° ∫“ß ·Ààß‡√’¬° ºâ“‡∂â“°’Ë ´÷Ëß‡ªìπºâ“≈“¬µ“ ’Ë‡À≈’Ë¬¡‡≈Á°Ê Õ¬à“ß‰√°Áµ“¡ „π∫√‘‡«≥¿“§„µâ¬—ß¡’°“√∑Õºâ“„πÀ≈“¬ ∑âÕß∂‘Ëπ ‡©æ“–∑’Ë¡’™◊ËÕ‡ ’¬ß‡ªìπ∑’Ë√Ÿâ®—°°—π¥’ ‰¥â·°à ºâ“æÿ¡‡√’¬ß ºâ“∫â“ππ“À¡◊Ëπ»√’ ·≈– ºâ“‡°“–¬Õ ºâ“æÿ¡‡√’¬ß ‡ªìπºâ“∑’∑Ë Õ®“°∫â“πæÿ¡‡√’¬ß µ”∫≈æÿ¡‡√’¬ß Õ”‡¿Õ‰™¬“ ®—ßÀ«—¥ ÿ√“…Æ√å∏“π’ ™à“ß∑Õºâ“ à«π¡“°‡ªìπ™“« ‰∑¬¡ÿ ≈‘¡∑’ËÕæ¬æ¡“®“°‰∑√∫ÿ√’§√“«‡¥’¬«°—∫™à“ßµà“ßÊ ∑’Ë ‡®â“æ√–¬“π§√œ Õæ¬æ®“°‡¡◊Õß‰∑√∫ÿ√’¡“‰«â∑’Ë‡¡◊Õßπ§√ »√’∏√√¡√“™‡¡◊ËÕæ.».ÚÛıÙ °“√∑Õºâ“æÿ¡‡√’¬ß·µà‡¥‘¡∑Õ „™â „π§√—«‡√◊Õπ·≈–°≈ÿ¡à ™π¢Õßµπ à«π„À≠à∑”‰«â „™â „π‡«≈“ ·µàßß“π À√◊Õ„ à ‰ª∑”æ‘∏∑’ ’Ë ‡ÿ À√à“ ≈“¬∑’πË ¬‘ ¡∑Õ°—π¡“°‰¥â·°à ≈“¬¬°‡∫Á¥ ºŸ∑â π’Ë ßÿà ºâ“∑Õ‰À¡®–µâÕß‡ªìπºŸ¡â ∞’ “π–¥’ µàÕ¡“‡¡◊ÕË º≈‘ µ ‰¥â ¡ “°®÷ ß ®”Àπà “ ¬„Àâ °— ∫ ºŸâ ∫ √‘ ‚¿§µà“ß∂‘Ëπ ®π‡ªìπ∑’Ë ¬Õ¡√—∫°—π∑—Ë«‰ª«à“‡ªìπºâ“∑’Ë¡’ ’ —π≈«¥≈“¬ß¥ß“¡ ¡‡¥Á® æ√–‡®â“∫√¡«ß»å‡∏Õ‡®â“øÑ“¿“≥ÿ√—ß…’ «à“ß«ß»å °√¡æ√–¬“ ¿“≥ÿæ—π∏ÿ«ß»å«√‡¥™ ∑√ß∫—π∑÷°√“§“ºâ“‰À¡∑’Ë∑Õ„π‡¡◊Õß ‰™¬“‰«â „πÀπ—ß ◊Õ™’««‘ ≤— πåµÕπÀπ÷ßË «à“ ç..√“§“ ‘ßË ¢Õß∑’¢Ë “¬„π

ÒÚÙ

124

µ≈“¥ ºâ“πÿàß ºâ“Àà¡ ºâ“¬°‰À¡ ºâ“¡à«ß ‰¡à¡’ ‡ªìπ¢Õß∑” ®”‡æ“–ºŸâ —ËßºŸâµâÕß°“√ ·≈–¢Õß∑”∑’Ë∫â“πºŸâ«à“√“™°“√·≈– ºŸâ„À≠à ºâ“¥â“¬·°¡‰À¡√“§“º◊π≈– Û ∫“∑ Ú ≈÷ß ºâ“æ◊Èπ √“§“Õ¬à“ß¥’º◊π≈– ˆ ≈÷ß À√◊Õ ˜ ≈÷ß ºâ“æ◊ÈπÕ¬à“ß‡≈«°ÿ≈’ ≈– Ò¯ ∫“∑ Ú ∫“∑ ÚÙ ∫“∑ ºâ“¢“«¡â“Õ¬à“ß°«â“ß°ÿ≈’≈– Ú ∫“∑ ºâ“¢“«¡â“Õ¬à“ß·§∫°ÿ≈’≈– Ò ∫“∑...é ÒÚ · ¥ß«à“ ºâ“∑’Ë∑Õ®“°æÿ¡‡√’¬ßπ”‰ª®”Àπà“¬∑’Ëµ≈“¥‡¡◊Õß‰™¬“„πÕ¥’µ ¡’∑—Èßºâ“¬°‰À¡ ºâ“ΩÑ“¬·°¡‰À¡ ·≈–ºâ“¢“«¡â“ °“√∑Õºâ“∑’Ë æÿ¡‡√’¬ß·µà‡¥‘¡π—Èπ ™“«∫â“π®–´◊ÈÕ‰À¡¡“®“°Õ’ “π ·≈â« π”¡“¬âÕ¡¥â«¬ ’∏√√¡™“µ‘ ‡™àπ ’¥”®“°¡–‡°≈◊Õ ’·¥ß ®“°§√—Ëß ´÷Ëß‡ªìπ°√√¡«‘∏’æ◊Èπ∫â“π‡™àπ‡¥’¬«°—∫∑’Ë∑”°—π„π ¿“§Õ◊ËπÊ ºâ“æÿ¡‡√’¬ß®÷ß¡’ ’ª√– “π°≈¡°≈◊π°—π «¬ß“¡ ºâ“æÿ¡‡√’¬ß∑’¡Ë ≈’ °— …≥–‡©æ“–∂‘πË ™—¥‡®π ‰¥â·°à ºâ“´‘πË ΩÑ“¬ ·°¡‰À¡ ∑’Ë „™âΩ“Ñ ¬‡ªìπ‡ âπ¬◊π„™â ‰À¡‡ªìπ‡ âπæÿßà π‘¬¡∑Õ‡ªìπ ºâ“¬°¥Õ° ≈“¬√“™«—µ√‚§¡ ∫â“ß ≈“¬¥Õ°æ‘°ÿ≈ ∫â“ß ‡™‘ß¬° ¥Õ° πÕ°®“°π’È ¬—ß¡’ ºâ“∑Õµ“ ¡ÿ° À√◊Õ ≈“¬ ¡ÿ° ºâ“≈“¬ √“™«—µ√ ´÷Ëß‡ªìπ≈“¬ºâ“∑’Ë∑Õ°—π·æ√àÀ≈“¬„π∫√‘‡«≥¿“§„µâ ºâ“∫â“ππ“À¡◊πË »√’ ‰¥â·°àº“â ∑’∑Ë Õ∑’∫Ë “â ππ“À¡◊πË »√’ µ”∫≈ π“À¡◊πË »√’ Õ”‡¿Õ‡¡◊Õß ®—ßÀ«—¥µ√—ß ™“«∫â“ππ“À¡◊πË »√’∑Õºâ“

¡“π“ππ—∫√âÕ¬ªï ºâ“∫â“ππ“À¡◊πË »√’¡À’ ≈“¬™π‘¥ ‡™àπ ºâ“‡∫’¬Ë ß ºâ“¢“«¡â“ ºâ“æ“π™â“ß ∑’Ë „™â‡ªìπºâ“πÿàßÀà¡ à«πºâ“´‘Ëπ°Á¡’ ºâ“ À“ß°√–√Õ° ºâ“µ“ ¡ÿ° ºâ“‡∫’Ë¬ß ºâ“Àπâ“·§∫·µà¬“« ™“¬ºâ“ ’‡√’¬∫∑—Èß Õß™“¬ °≈“ßº◊π∑Õ¬°‡ªìπ≈“¬≈Ÿ°·°â« ´÷ßË ‡ªìπ≈“¬ª√–®”∂‘πË ‡®â“ “« ¡—°∑Õ‰«â „Àâ‡®â“∫à“«ÀâÕ¬‰À≈à „πæ‘∏’·µàßß“π §π™√“¡—°„™âºâ“ ‡∫’Ë¬ßÀà¡‡©’¬ßÀ√◊ÕÀâÕ¬‰À≈à ‰ª∑”∫ÿ≠∑’Ë«—¥ ‰ªß“πæ‘∏’µà“ßÊ À√◊Õ„™â‡ªìπºâ“Àà¡·≈–ºâ“°√“∫æ√–¥â«¬ ºâ“‡∫’Ë¬ß¡—°∑Õ¥â«¬°’Ë æ◊Èπ∫â“π∑’Ë‡√’¬°«à“ °’Ë‡µ’È¬ ´÷Ëß„™â∑Õºâ“Àπâ“·§∫‡æ’¬ßª√–¡“≥ Àπ÷Ëß»Õ° π‘¬¡∑Õ≈“¬≈Ÿ°·°â«¡“°°«à“≈“¬Õ◊Ëπ ∑Õ¥â«¬ ’ ‡À≈◊Õß ≈—∫·¥ß ªí®®ÿ∫—π™à“ß∑Õºâ“‡∫’Ë¬ß≈“¬≈Ÿ°·°â«≈¥ ®”π«π‰ª¡“° ‡æ√“–°“√∑ÕµâÕß„™â ¡“∏‘·≈–§«“¡æ¬“¬“¡ Ÿß ™à“ß∑Õºâ“√ÿàπ„À¡à¡—°À—π‰ª∑Õºâ“æ◊Èπ¥â«¬°’Ë°√–µÿ°∑’Ë∑Õ‰¥â –¥«°·≈–√«¥‡√Á« ºâ“¢“«¡â“ ¢Õß∫â“ππ“À¡◊Ëπ»√’ „™â‡ªìπºâ“Àà¡ ºâ“ÀâÕ¬‰À≈à ¢Õß§π‡≤à“§π·°à √Ÿª·∫∫¢Õßºâ“¢“«¡â“∫â“ππ“À¡◊Ëπ»√’ ·µ°µà“ß®“°ºâ“¢“«¡â“∑—Ë«‰ª§◊Õ °≈“ßº◊π∑Õ ≈—∫ ’‡ªìπ≈“¬ √“™«—µ√ ‡™‘ßºâ“∑Õ‡ªìπ√‘È«Ê ºâ“¢“«¡â“≈“¬√“™«—µ√∫â“ππ“ À¡◊Ëπ»√’ ¡’ ’ —π·≈–≈«¥≈“¬≈–‡Õ’¬¥ª√–≥’µ «¬ß“¡

ºâ“æ“π™â“ß ºâ“∑’Ë „™â „πæ‘∏’¨“ªπ°‘® °«â“ßª√–¡“≥Àπ÷Ëß »Õ° ¬“«ª√–¡“≥Àπ÷ßË «“ ¡—°∑Õ≈“¬‡ªìπ§”°≈Õπ ‚§≈ß ∫Õ° ª√–«—µ‘¢ÕßºŸâµ“¬ ·≈–§µ‘ Õπ„®„Àâ¬÷¥¡—Ëπ„π§ÿ≥§«“¡¥’ ≈–®“°∫“ª·≈–§«“¡™—Ë« ‡ªìπ¡√≥“πÿ µ‘·°àºŸâ∑’Ë¬—ß¡’™’«‘µÕ¬Ÿà ‡®â“¿“æ®–æ“¥ºâ“æ“π™â“ß‰«â°—∫À’∫»æ„π°“√µ—Èß»æ ‡¡◊ËÕ‡º“ »æ·≈â«®–µ—¥ÕÕ°‡ªìπº◊π‡≈Á°Ê ∂«“¬æ√–‡æ◊ËÕ„™â‡ªìπºâ“‡™Á¥ ª“° ‡™Á¥¡◊Õ ªí®®ÿ∫—π¬—ß¡’°“√„™âºâ“™π‘¥π’ÈÕ¬Ÿà∫â“ß ºâ“À“ß°√–√Õ° ‡ªìπºâ“Õ’°™π‘¥Àπ÷ßË ∑’¡Ë ≈’ °— …≥–‡©æ“–∂‘πË ‡¥àπ™—¥·≈–¬—ßπ‘¬¡„™â°—π„π∑âÕß∂‘Ëπ ‚¥¬‡©æ“–ºâ“À“ß °√–√Õ°∑’Ë∑Õ¥â«¬ΩÑ“¬π—Èπ¬—ßπÿàß°—πÕ¬Ÿà∑—Ë«‰ª „πªï æ.».ÚıÒÙ ™à“ß∑Õºâ“∫â“ππ“À¡◊Ëπ»√’ ‰¥â√«¡°≈ÿà¡ °—π∑Õºâ“¥â«¬°’Ë°√–µÿ°·∑π°’Ëæ◊Èπ∫â“π ∑—Èß≈«¥≈“¬¢Õßºâ“∑’Ë ∑Õ à«πÀπ÷Ëß°Á√—∫·∫∫Õ¬à“ß¡“®“°‡°“–¬Õ ®—ßÀ«—¥ ß¢≈“ ®÷ß‡ªìπ “‡ÀµÿÀπ÷Ëß∑’Ë∑”„Àâºâ“∑Õ∫â“ππ“À¡◊Ëπ»√’ „πªí®®ÿ∫—π¡’ §«“¡§≈â“¬§≈÷ß°—∫ºâ“‡°“–¬Õ ºâ“∑Õ‡°“–¬Õ ºâ“∑Õ¡◊Õ¢Õß™“«‡°“–¬Õ µ”∫≈‡°“–¬Õ Õ”‡¿Õ‡¡◊Õß ®—ßÀ«—¥ ß¢≈“ °≈à “ «°— π «à “ ™“«‡°“–∑’Ë‡ªìπ ™à“ß∑Õºâ“π—ÈπÕæ¬æ¡“®“°∫â“π∑à“π“ßÀÕ¡ µ”∫≈πÈ”πâÕ¬ Õ”‡¿ÕÀ“¥„À≠à ·≈–µ”∫≈∑ÿßà À«—ß Õ”‡¿Õ‡¡◊Õß ß¢≈“ ´÷ßË ‡ªìπ

125

ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡æ◊Èπ∫â“π

ÒÚı

´‘Ëπ¬°¥Õ°∫â“πæÿ¡‡√’¬ß Õ”‡¿Õ‰™¬“ ®—ßÀ«—¥ ÿ√“…Æ√å∏“π’ Fabrics from Ban Phum Riang, Amphoe Chaiya, Surat Thani.

ºâ“æ“π™â“ß ∫â“ππ“À¡◊πË »√’ A piece of fabric called “pha phan chang” from Ban Na Muen Si, Amphoe Mueang, Trang.

·À≈àß∑Õºâ“¡“µ—ßÈ ·µà ¡—¬°√ÿß∏π∫ÿ√’ ‡®â“æ√–¬“π§√œ ‡§¬„Àâ °√¡°“√‡¡◊Õß°«“¥µâÕπ‡Õ“™à“ß∑Õºâ“®“°‡¡◊Õß ß¢≈“‰ª‰«â ∑’Ë‡¡◊Õßπ§√»√’∏√√¡√“™ ¿“¬À≈—ß°“√∑Õºâ“∑’Ë‡¡◊Õß ß¢≈“ ‡°◊Õ∫ “∫ Ÿ≠ ®π∂÷ß ¡—¬√—™°“≈∑’Ë ı ™“«‡¡◊Õß ß¢≈“®÷ß °≈—∫¡“∑Õºâ“°—π·æ√àÀ≈“¬Õ’°§√—Èß ¥—ß∫∑æ√–√“™π‘æπ∏å „π æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–®ÿ≈®Õ¡‡°≈â“‡®â“Õ¬ŸàÀ—« ‡¡◊ËÕ§√—Èß‡ ¥Á® ª√–æ“ ·À≈¡¡≈“¬Ÿ √.».Ò˘ (æ.».ÚÙÛÛ) µÕπÀπ÷ßË «à“ ç...·µà‡®â“‡¡◊Õß¢Õß‡¢“«à“ ºâ“¡“° ‡ß‘π Û ∫“∑ ´◊ÈÕ‰¡àÀ¡¥ ‡√“®÷Ëß‰¥âÕÕ°‡¥‘π‰ª¥Ÿ¡’ºâ“¡“°°«à“§√“«°àÕπ πÿ° π“π ¡“°·µà®–√Õ´◊ÈÕ°Á‰¡à‰¥â‡æ√“–ªÉ«¬°“√‡ ’¬‡«≈“®–√’∫≈ß‡√◊Õ ‡ªìπ·µà‡°≥±åæ√–¬“‡∑‡«»√å·≈–æ√–¬“ √√‡æ∑„Àâ‡Õ“‡ß‘π ‰ª®—¥´◊ÈÕ§π≈–·∂∫ √â“πÀπ÷Ëß„Àâ´◊ÈÕºâ“Àπ÷Ëßº◊π∑ÿ°√â“π...é ÒÛ ‡¡◊ËÕæ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–ª°‡°≈â“‡®â“Õ¬ŸàÀ—« ‡ ¥Á®œ ‡¬’Ë¬¡ √“…Æ√∑’Ë ß¢≈“„πªïæ.».ÚÙ˜ı √“…Æ√π”ºâ“‡°“–¬Õ¢÷Èπ ∑Ÿ≈‡°≈â“œ ∂«“¬ ‰¥âæ√–√“™∑“π™◊ËÕºâ“¬°¥Õ°π—Èπ«à“ ºâ“≈“¬ √“™«—µ√ µàÕ¡“‰¥â√—∫§«“¡π‘¬¡·æ√àÀ≈“¬¡“®πªí®®ÿ∫—π °“√∑Õºâ “ ‡°“–¬Õ‰¥â À ¬ÿ ¥ ™–ß— ° ‰ª™—Ë « √–¬–Àπ÷Ë ß ¡— ¬ ß§√“¡‚≈°§√—Èß∑’Ë Ú ‡æ√“–¢“¥«—µ∂ÿ¥‘∫ ®π∂÷ß æ.».ÚıÒ¯ ‰¥â¡’°“√øóôπøŸ°“√∑Õºâ“∑’Ë‡°“–¬Õ¢÷Èπ¡“Õ’°§√—ÈßÀπ÷Ëß «‘∏’∑Õ

ÒÚˆ

126

·≈–≈“¬ºâ“‡°“–¬Õ‰¡àµà“ß‰ª®“°ºâ“∑Õæ◊Èπ∫â“π¿“§„µâ∂‘Ëπ Õ◊ËπÊ ¡“°π—° ‡¡◊ËÕæ.».ÚıÚÙ ¡’°“√∑Õ¥â«¬°’Ë°√–µÿ°Õ¬Ÿà ª√–¡“≥ ˘ˆ˜ À≈—ß ¡’º∑Ÿâ Õ∑—ßÈ ™“¬·≈–À≠‘ßª√–¡“≥ Ò, §π ¡—°∑Õ‡ªìπºâ“¬°¥Õ°™π‘¥ Õßµ–°Õ ’Ëµ–°Õ À°µ–°Õ ·ª¥µ–°Õ ·≈– ‘∫µ–°Õ ´÷Ëß‡ªìπºâ“‡π◊ÈÕÀπ“ ∑Õ¥â«¬¥â“¬ ΩÑ“¬·≈–‡ âπ„¬ —ß‡§√“–Àå À√◊Õ‡ âπ„¬ —ß‡§√“–Àåº ¡‰À¡ ”À√—∫„™â‡ªìπºâ“´‘πË ºâ“µ—¥‡ ◊ÕÈ ºâ“ ·≈–ºâ“ΩÑ“¬‡π◊ÕÈ ∫“ß∑’∑Ë Õ‡ªìπ ºâ“‚ √àß ·≈–ºâ“¢“«¡â“ ¡’≈«¥≈“¬µà“ßÊ °—π ‡™àπ ≈“¬¥Õ° √“™«—µ√‡≈Á° ≈“¬¥Õ°√“™«—µ√„À≠à ≈“¬≈Ÿ°·°â« ≈“¬¥Õ° æ‘°ÿ≈‡≈Á° ≈“¬¥Õ°æ‘°ÿ≈„À≠à ≈“¬¥Õ°®‘° ≈“¬¥Õ°®ÿ° ≈“¬ µ–‡§√’¬– ‡ªìπµâπ ªí®®ÿ∫π— °“√∑Õºâ“‡ªìπÕ“™’æ∑’ Ë √â“ß√“¬‰¥â „Àâª√–™“™π∫π ‡°“–π—∫ ‘∫≈â“π∫“∑µàÕªï À“°™“«‡°“–¬Õ “¡“√∂√—°…“ §ÿ≥¿“æ¢Õßºâ“„Àâ ‰¥â¡“µ√∞“π ¡’√Ÿª·∫∫ ≈«¥≈“¬·≈– ’ —π ∑’‡Ë ªìπ‡Õ°≈—°…≥å‡©æ“–∂‘πË ‰«â ‰¥â ºâ“‡°“–¬Õ°ÁÕ“®®–‰¥â√∫— §«“¡ π‘¬¡®“°ºŸâ∫√‘ ‚¿§µ≈Õ¥‰ª πÕ°®“°ºâ“æ◊πÈ ∫â“π¥—ß°≈à“«·≈â«„π¿“§„µâ¬ß— ¡’º“â æ◊πÈ ∫â“π æ◊πÈ ‡¡◊Õß∑’¡Ë ™’ Õ◊Ë ‡ ’¬ß¡“·µàÕ¥’µÀ≈“¬™π‘¥‡™àπ ºâ“¬°µ“π’ ‡ªìπ ºâ“∑Õ¬°¥Õ°ª√–‡¿∑‡¥’¬«°—∫ºâ“¬°‡¡◊Õßπ§√ °≈à“«°—π«à“ ºâ“¬°µ“π’∑Õ¥â«¬‰À¡®“°®’π Õ¥‡ âπ‡ß‘π·≈–∑Õß®“°®’π ·≈–Õ‘π‡¥’¬ ‡æ√“–ªíµµ“π’‡ªìπ‡¡◊Õß™“¬Ωíòß∑–‡≈ ®÷ßµ‘¥µàÕ §â“¢“¬°—∫µà“ß™“µ‘ –¥«° ºâ“®«πµ“π’ ºâ“‰À¡ À√◊Õ‰À¡·°¡ ΩÑ“¬ Õ¥ ’‡ªìπ√‘È«µ“¡§«“¡¬“«¢Õßºâ“ ºâ“™π‘¥π’ÈÕ“®∑Õ ®“°«—ßÀ√◊Õ®«π‡®â“‡¡◊Õßªíµµ“π’®÷ß‡√’¬° ºâ“®«πµ“π’ à«π ºâ“∑’¡Ë ≈’ «¥≈“¬§≈â“¬ºâ“™«“ ‡√’¬° ®«π™«“µ“π’ ‡¡◊Õßªíµµ“π’ „πÕ¥’µ‡ªìπ‡¡◊Õß∑à“∑’Ëµ‘¥µàÕ§â“¢“¬°—∫µà“ßª√–‡∑» §ß‰¥â√—∫ ·∫∫Õ¬à“ß°“√∑Õºâ“™π‘¥µà“ßÊ ¡“®“° ®’π Õ‘π‡¥’¬ ·≈– ‡ªÕ√å‡´’¬ ·≈â«ª√–¬ÿ°µå≈«¥≈“¬·≈– ’ π— „Àâ‡¢â“°—∫§«“¡π‘¬¡ ¢Õß∑âÕß∂‘Ëπ °“√‡≈‘°∑Õºâ“‡æ◊ËÕ„™â‡ªìπ‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡¢Õß™“« ªíµµ“π’Õ“®‡æ√“–¢“¥·§≈π«—µ∂ÿ¥‘∫´÷ËßµâÕß —Ëß´◊ÈÕ®“°µà“ß ª√–‡∑»∑”„Àâº“â ¡’√“§“ Ÿß ™“«‡¡◊Õß®÷ß´◊ÕÈ ºâ“®“°µà“ß∂‘πË ¡“„™â ªí®®ÿ∫π— ºâ“∑’πË ¬‘ ¡„™â‡ªìπ‡§√◊ÕË ßπÿßà Àà¡∑—«Ë ‰ª§◊Õ ºâ“ª“‡µä– (batik) ´÷Ëßº≈‘µ°—π¡“°„π®—ßÀ«—¥ªíµµ“π’ ¬–≈“ ·≈–π√“∏‘«“ ºâ“æ◊πÈ ∫â“π¿“§µà“ßÊ ¢Õß‰∑¬∑—ßÈ ∑’∑Ë Õ‡ªìπ‡§√◊ÕË ßπÿßà Àà¡ „π ¡—¬‚∫√“≥·≈–ºâ“∑’Ë∑Õ®”Àπà“¬„πªí®®ÿ∫—π ‡©æ“–ºâ“∑’Ë ∑Õµ“¡°√√¡«‘∏’∑’Ë ◊∫∑Õ¥°—π¡“·µà∫√√æ∫ÿ√ÿ…π—Èπ ‡ªìπ ¿Ÿ¡‘ªí≠≠“‰∑¬∑’Ë§«√‰¥â√—∫°“√Õπÿ√—°…å ◊∫∑Õ¥„Àâ§ßÕ¬Ÿà ◊∫‰ª

ºâ“‡∫’Ë¬ß≈“¬≈Ÿ°·°â« ∫â“ππ“À¡◊πË »√’ Õ”‡¿Õ‡¡◊Õß ®—ßÀ«—¥µ√—ß

ºâ“¢“«¡â“≈“¬√“™«—µ√ ∫â“ππ“À¡◊πË »√’ A piece of bathing cloth in a design called “lai rachawat” from Ban Na Muen Si, Amphoe Mueang, Trang.

A shawl in a local design called “lai luk kaeo” from Ban Na Muen Si, Amphoe Mueang, Trang.

127

ºâ“·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡æ◊Èπ∫â“π

ÒÚ˜

¿“æ≈“¬√¥πÈ” · ¥ß°“√·µàß°“¬¢Õß ¢ÿππ“ß «¡≈Õ¡æÕ° A decorative depiction of costume in the Ayutthaya period with courtiers wearing a traditional headgear called “lomphok.”

≈Õ¡æÕ° ‡§√◊ËÕß «¡»’√…–¢ÿππ“ß ·≈–∑À“√ ∑”¥â«¬‚§√ß‰¡â ‰ºà Àÿâ¡¥â«¬ºâ“‰¢«â°—π§≈â“¬°“∫‰ºà ¡’¬Õ¥·À≈¡§≈â“¬™Æ“

ÒÚ¯

128

«‘«—≤π“°“√ ‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡„π«‘∂’ ‰∑¬ ‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡πÕ°®“°®–„™âª°ªî¥√à“ß°“¬·≈â« ¬—ß‡ªìπ ‡§√◊ËÕß∫Õ°™—Èπ«√√≥–¢ÕßºŸâ§π„π —ß§¡¥â«¬ ‚¥¬‡©æ“– ¡—¬∑’Ë√“™Õ“≥“®—°√‰∑¬ª°§√Õß¥â«¬√–∫Õ∫°…—µ√‘¬å À√◊Õ ¡∫Ÿ√≥“≠“ ‘∑∏‘√“™¬å °“√·µàß°“¬·≈–‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡‡ªìπ ‡§√◊ËÕß°”Àπ¥™π™—Èπ∑“ß —ß§¡∑’Ë ”§—≠ ‡™àπ‡¥’¬«°—∫°“√ °”Àπ¥‚¥¬ »—°¥‘π“ „π ¡—¬µâπ√—µπ‚° ‘π∑√å·∫àß™π™—Èπ „π —ß§¡ÕÕ°‡ªìπ Ù ™—Èπ§◊Õ ™—Èπ‡®â“π“¬ ¡’æ√–¡À“°…—µ√‘¬å ∑√ß‡ªì π ºŸâ π” Ÿ ß ÿ ¥ √Õß≈ß¡“§◊ Õ æ√–∫√¡«ß»“πÿ « ß»å ∞“π— π ¥√»— ° ¥‘Ï µ—È ß ·µà ™—È π ‡®â “ øÑ “ æ√–Õß§å‡®â“ À¡à Õ ¡‡®â “ ™—ÈπºŸâ¥’ ‰¥â·°à ∫ÿ§§≈ Ú æ«° æ«°Àπ÷ßË ‡ªìπ≠“µ‘À“à ßÊ ¢Õß æ√–‡®â“·ºàπ¥‘π ∑’Ë ‰¡àπ—∫«à“‡ªìπ‡®â“π“¬ Õ’°æ«°Àπ÷Ëß§◊Õ ¢ÿππ“ß ´÷Ëß·∫àß‡ªìπ Ú √–¥—∫§◊Õ ¢ÿππ“ß™—Èπ —≠≠“∫—µ√ »—°¥‘π“ Ù ‰√à ®π∂÷ß Ò, ‰√à ‰¥â√—∫°“√∂«“¬µ—«‡¡◊ËÕ ‡¢â“√—∫√“™°“√ ¡’Àπâ“∑’Ë‡¢â“‡ΩÑ“Àπâ“æ√–∑’Ëπ—Ëß‡«≈“‡ ¥Á®ÕÕ° «à“√“™°“√·ºàπ¥‘π À√◊Õß“πæ√–√“™æ‘∏’µà“ßÊ ‡™àπ °“√ µâÕπ√—∫·¢°‡¡◊Õß ∑Ÿµ“πÿ∑µŸ µà“ßª√–‡∑» ´÷ßË ∂◊Õ‡ªìπ™π™—πÈ Ÿß „™â™’«‘µÕ¬Ÿà „π√“™ ”π—° µâÕß·µàß°“¬µ“¡∑’Ë°”Àπ¥‰«â „π°Æ ¡≥‡±’ ¬ √∫“≈ à « π¢ÿ π π“ß∑’Ë ¡’ »— ° ¥‘ π “µË” °«à “ Ù ‰√à ‰¡à¡’µ”·Àπàß„π‡«≈“‡¢â“‡ΩÑ“ πÕ°®“°π’È¬—ß¡’ºŸâ∑’Ë ‰ ¥â √— ∫ æ√–√“™∑“πµ”·Àπàß·≈–¬»»—°¥‘Ï∑“ß√“™°“√ ·µà¡’»—°¥‘π“ µË”°«à“ Ù ‰√à ‰¥â·°à ºŸ∑â ¡’Ë À’ πâ“∑’¥Ë ·Ÿ ≈·≈–‡°Á∫¿“…’Õ“°√„Àâ√∞— à«π¡“°‡ªìπ™“«®’π∑’Ë§«∫§ÿ¡·≈–¥Ÿ·≈°“√§â“ ”‡¿“„π ¡—¬ µâπ√—µπ‚° ‘π∑√å ™—Èπ‰æ√à §◊Õ √“…Æ√∑—Ë«‰ª à«π„À≠à‡ªìπ ™“«π“™“«‰√à ‡ªìπ°”≈—ßº≈‘µ∑’Ë ”§—≠¢Õß™“µ‘·≈–‡ªìπºŸâ‡ ’¬ ¿“…’Õ“°√„Àâ∫â“π‡¡◊Õß ·≈– ™π™—Èπ∑“ §◊ÕºŸâ∑’Ë ‰¡à¡’Õ‘ √– ‡ √’¿“æ§√∫∂â«π‡À¡◊Õπ§π∑’Ë‡ªìπ‰∑¬·°àµ—« °ÆÀ¡“¬ »—°¥‘π“°”Àπ¥„Àâ‡ªìπ§π™—ÈπµË” ÿ¥‡™àπ‡¥’¬«°—∫¢Õ∑“π ¡’ »—°¥‘π“‡æ’¬ß ı ‰√à ·¡â „π —ß§¡‰∑¬®–¡’°“√·∫àß™—Èπ«√√≥– ¥—ß°≈à“« ·µàµà“ß®“°«√√≥–¢ÕßÕ‘π‡¥’¬§◊Õ “¡“√∂‡ª≈’Ë¬π ™—Èπ‰¥â ‡™àπ ‰æ√à∑’Ë¡’§«“¡™Õ∫„π√“™°“√°ÁÕ“®‰¥â√—∫·µàßµ—Èß ‡ªìπ¢ÿππ“ß‰¥â ∂â“¢ÿππ“ß∑”‰¡à¥’°ÁÕ“®∂Ÿ°≈¥™—Èπ≈ß¡“‡ªìπ ‰æ√à ‰¥â‡™àπ°—π ÒÙ ‚¥¬π—¬¥—ß°≈à“« —ß§¡‰∑¬„πÕ¥’µ®÷ß·∫àß§πÕÕ°‡ªìπ Ú °≈ÿà¡„À≠àÊ §◊Õ ™π™—Èπ Ÿß ‰¥â·°à æ√–¡À“°…—µ√‘¬å ·≈– æ√–√“™«ß»å ‡ π“∫¥’ ¢â“√“™∫√‘æ“√µà“ßÊ ´÷Ëß¡’Àπâ“∑’Ë ‡°’Ë¬«¢âÕß°—∫°“√∫√‘À“√√“™°“√·ºàπ¥‘π √«¡‰ª®π∂÷ß∫ÿ§§≈ ∑’Ë‡°’Ë¬«‡π◊ËÕß°—∫æ√–¡À“°…—µ√‘¬å´÷Ëß„™â™’«‘µÕ¬Ÿà „π√“™ ”π—° ∫ÿ§§≈‡À≈à“π’È¡’«—≤π∏√√¡·≈–«‘∂’™’«‘µµà“ß‰ª®“°§πÕ’°°≈ÿà¡ 129

Àπ÷Ëß´÷Ëß‡ªìπ ºŸâ∂Ÿ°ª°§√Õß §◊Õ ‰æ√à ‰¥â·°à ™“«‰√à™“«π“ Õ—π ‡ªìπ§π à«π„À≠à¢Õßª√–‡∑» ‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡‡ªìπ‡§√◊ËÕß∫àß∫Õ° ∂“π¿“æ∑“ß —ß§¡∑’Ë ·µ°µà“ß°—π√–À«à“ß‡®â“°—∫‰æ√à ºâ“∑’Ë „™âπÿàßÀà¡ ®÷ßµà“ß°—π∑—Èß «— ¥ÿ √Ÿª·∫∫ ≈«¥≈“¬ ·≈– ’ ™π™—Èπ Ÿß„π√“™ ”π—°¬àÕ¡ ·µàß°“¬¥â«¬‡ ◊ÈÕºâ“Õ“¿√≥å∑’Ë¡’§ÿ≥¿“æ¥’ ¡’√“§“·æßµà“ß‰ª ®“° “¡—≠™π ‚¥¬‡©æ“–Õ¬à“ß¬‘Ëß„π ¡—¬‚∫√“≥ “¡—≠™π À√◊Õ™“«∫â“π™“«‡¡◊Õß∑—«Ë ‰ª®–‰¡à „§√à π„®„π‡√◊ÕË ß°“√·µàß°“¬ ¡“°π—° ‡æ√“–∂â“·µàßÀ√◊Õ„™â¢Õß¥’ ¡’√“§“‡°‘π‰ª°Á®–∂◊Õ‡ªìπ °“√µ’µπ‡ ¡ÕºŸâ Ÿß»—°¥‘Ï ™“«∫â“π„πÕ¥’µ®÷ßµâÕßπÿàß‡®’¬¡ Àà¡‡®’¬¡„Àâ‡À¡“– ¡°—∫∞“π–¢Õßµπ °“√·µàß°“¬¢Õß™π™—πÈ Ÿß¢Õß‰∑¬„π ¡—¬Õ¬ÿ∏¬“¡—°„™âº“â ∑’Ë —Ëß‡¢â“¡“®“°µà“ßª√–‡∑» ‡™àπ Õ‘π‡¥’¬ ®’π ·≈–‡ªÕ√å‡´’¬ ‰¡à „™âº“â æ◊πÈ ∫â“π‡À¡◊Õπ™“«∫â“π∑—«Ë ‰ª ≈“≈Ÿ·∫√å ‰¥â∫π— ∑÷°‡√◊ÕË ß ©≈Õßæ√–Õß§å ¢ Õß ¡‡¥Á ® æ√–π“√“¬≥å ¡ À“√“™‰«â «à “ ç..æ√–‡®â “ °√ÿ ß ¬“¡∑√ß„™â © ≈Õßæ√–Õß§å ∑’Ë µ— ¥ ‡¬Á ∫ ¥â « ¬ ºâ“‡¬’¬√∫—∫ Õ¬à“ßß“¡ ·¢π©≈Õßæ√–Õß§åπ—Èπ·§∫¡“∂÷ß¢âÕ æ√–À—µ∂å ∑”πÕß‡¥’¬«°—∫‡ ◊ÕÈ ∑’‡Ë √“„™â «¡°—πÀπ“«„µâ‡ ◊ÕÈ §≈ÿ¡ ©–π—Èπ æ√–Õß§å∑√ß©≈Õßæ√–Õß§åπ—Èπ‰«â¿“¬„µâ©≈Õß æ√–Õß§å§√ÿ¬ ¥—ß∑’Ë¢â“æ‡®â“‰¥âæ√√≥π“¡“·≈â« ‡ªìπ©≈Õß æ√–Õß§å∑’Ë‰¥â√—∫°“√ªí°Õ¬à“ß«‘®‘µ√ µà“ß·∫∫≈«¥≈“¬°—π°—∫ „π∑«’ ª ¬ÿ ‚ √ª ™“« ¬“¡§π„¥®–„™â ‡ ◊È Õ ™π‘ ¥ π’È ¡‘ ‰ ¥â ‡ ≈¬ πÕ°®“° ¡‡¥Á®æ√–‡®â“Õ¬ŸàÀ—«®–∑√ßæ√–°√ÿ≥“‚ª√¥‡°≈â“œ æ√–√“™∑“π„Àâ ·≈–æ√–Õß§å®–∑√ßæ√–√“™∑“π ∫”‡ÀπÁ® ™π‘¥π’È„Àâ°Á‡©æ“–·µà¢ÿππ“ß∑’Ë¡’∫√√¥“»—°¥‘Ï Ÿß‡∑à“π—Èπ..é Òı ∫—π∑÷°¥—ß°≈à“«· ¥ß„Àâ‡ÀÁπ«à“ ºâ“∑’Ë „™â©≈Õßæ√–Õß§å¢Õß æ√–¡À“°…—µ√‘¬å‡ªìπºâ“∑’Ë —Ëß‡¢â“¡“®“°µà“ßª√–‡∑» ‰¡à „™àºâ“ æ◊Èπ∫â“π∑’Ëº≈‘µ„πª√–‡∑» ‡™àπ‡¥’¬«°—∫æ«°¢ÿππ“ß∑’Ë·µàßµ—« ‚ÕàÕà“ «¡‡ ◊ÈÕ§√ÿ¬ ¥—ß∑’Ë≈“≈Ÿ·∫√å ∫—π∑÷°‰«â«à“ ç...ΩÉ“¬æ«° Õ”¡“µ¬åÀ√◊Õ¢ÿππ“ßπ—Èπ πÕ°®“°πÿàßºâ“·≈â« ¬—ß «¡‡ ◊ÈÕ §√ÿ¬¡— ≈‘πÕ’°µ—«Àπ÷Ëß„™â‡À¡◊Õπ‡ ◊ÈÕ™—ÈππÕ° À√◊Õ‡ ◊ÈÕ§≈ÿ¡ (∂÷ß‡¢à“) ‡¢“®–‡ª≈◊ÈÕß¡—πÕÕ°·≈â«¡â«π‡¢â“‰«â°—∫∫—Èπ‡Õ« ‡¡◊ËÕ ‡¢â “ ‰ªÀ“¢ÿ π π“ßºŸâ „ À≠à ∑’Ë ¡’ ¬ »∂“∫√√¥“»— ° ¥‘Ï Ÿ ß °«à “ µπ ‡ªìπ°“√· ¥ß«à“‡¢“‡µ√’¬¡æ√âÕ¡Õ¬Ÿà‡ ¡Õ∑’Ë∑à“πºŸâ„À≠à®– ∫—≠™“„Àâ‰ª‰Àπ¡“‰Àπ‰¥â¥—ß„®‡¥’Î¬«π—Èπ πÕ°‰ª°«à“π—Èπ ∫√√¥“¢ÿππ“ß∑’Ë‡√“‡ÀÁπ‡¢â“‡ΩÑ“ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–‡®â“°√ÿß ¬“¡„π ∑âÕßæ√–‚√ßπ—Èπ °Á§ßπÿàßÀà¡‡ ◊ÈÕºâ“‡µÁ¡¬» µ“¡∏√√¡‡π’¬¡ ¢ÿππ“ß ¬“¡¡’ß“πæ√–√“™æ‘∏’ ©–π—πÈ ®÷ßµâÕß «¡ ≈Õ¡æÕ° «‘«—≤π“°“√‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡„π«‘∂’‰∑¬

ÒÚ˘

»—°¥‘π“ °“√°”Àπ¥™π™—Èπ∑“ß —ß§¡ ‚¥¬„™â®”π«π∑’Ëπ“‡ªìπÀπà«¬«—¥ ‡™àπ ‰æ√à¡’»—°¥‘π“Õ¬à“ßµË” Ò ‰√à ‰¡à‡°‘π Úı ‰√à À“°‡¢â“√—∫√“™°“√ ®–‰¥â√—∫»—°¥‘π“ Ÿß¢÷Èπ ‡ªìπÀ—« ‘∫ ¡’»—°¥‘π“ Û ‰√à ‡ªìπºŸâ§ÿ¡ ı‰√à ‡ªìπª≈—¥√âÕ¬ Ò ‰√à ‡ªìππ“¬√âÕ¬ Ú ‰√à ®π∂÷ß™—Èπ¢ÿππ“ß»—°¥‘π“ Ù ‰√à ∂÷ß Ò, ‰√à ™—Èπ‡®â“π“¬Õ¬à“ßµË” ¯ ‰√à Ÿß ÿ¥ Ò, ‰√à Òˆ ™π™—Èπ∑“ æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á® æ√–®ÿ≈®Õ¡‡°≈â“‡®â“Õ¬ŸàÀ—« ∑√ßµ√“æ√–√“™∫—≠≠—µ‘‡≈‘°∑“ √.».ÒÚÙ (æ.».ÚÙÙ¯) ‡¬’¬√∫—∫ ºâ“‰À¡∑Õ¬°¥Õ°∂’ËÊ ¥â«¬‰À¡·≈àß∑Õß (‰À¡Àÿâ¡¥â«¬√‘È«∑Õß) ∑Õ„Àâ‡ÀÁπ≈“¬∑Õß¡“°°«à“æ◊Èπºâ“ (‡¬’¬√∫—∫‡ªìπ§”„π¿“…“‡ªÕ√å‡´’¬ §ß¡“®“°§”«à“ Zara ·ª≈«à“ ∑Õß baft ·ª≈«à“ ∑Õ ¥—ßπ—Èπ Zarabaft ®÷ßÀ¡“¬∂÷ß ºâ“∑Õ¥â«¬∑Õß) ¡—°„™â‡ªìπ‡§√◊ËÕß·µàß°“¬¢Õß™π™—Èπ Ÿß „π√“™ ”π—° ‡¬’¬√∫—∫¡’‡™‘ß„™â‡ªìπºâ“πÿàß®’∫ ‡ ◊ÈÕºŸâÀ≠‘ß·≈–ºŸâ™“¬ ‡¬’¬√∫—∫‰¡à¡’‡™‘ß „™âµ—¥‡ ◊ÈÕ ·≈–∑”‡§√◊ËÕß„™â ¿“¬À≈—ß„™â‡ªìπ‡§√◊ËÕß·µàßµ—«≈–§√‰∑¬Ò˜ ¡—¬Õ¬ÿ∏¬“ æ√–‡®â“·ºàπ¥‘π æ√–√“™∑“πºâ“·°à¢â“√“™∫√‘æ“√ ªï≈–§√—Èß‡√’¬°«à“ ºâ“À«—¥√“¬ªï ºâ“∑’æË √–√“™∑“ππ’È®–µà“ß°—π‰ª µ“¡µ”·Àπàß à«π¡“°‡ªìπ ºâ“ ¡ªí° ´÷Ëß‡ªìπºâ“‰À¡¡—¥À¡’Ë ‡æ≈“–°≈“ßº◊πºâ“ ¡’ ’·≈–≈«¥≈“¬µà“ß°—π‰ª ¢π“¥°«â“ß·≈–¬“«°«à“ºâ“∏√√¡¥“ ‡æ√“–‡ªìπºâ“ ”À√—∫πÿàß‚®ß°√–‡∫π ´÷Ëßπ‘¬¡πÿàß°—π„π ¡—¬π—Èπ ·≈– ◊∫µàÕ¡“®π∂÷ß ¡—¬√—µπ‚° ‘π∑√å

ºâ“ªŸ¡‰À¡ ¡—¬√—µπ‚° ‘π∑√å An exquisite piece of fabric called “pha pum mai” of the Rattanakosin period.

ºâ“ ¡ªí°ªŸ¡ ºâ“‰À¡∑’Ë¡’«‘∏’°“√¬âÕ¡ ·≈–∑Õ§≈â“¬°—∫ºâ“¡—¥À¡’Ë ‰¥â√—∫·∫∫Õ¬à“ß¡“®“°‡¢¡√ ·≈–‡¢¡√‰¥â√—∫·∫∫Õ¬à“ß¡“®“°Õ‘π‡¥’¬ ‰∑¬π”¡“„™â‡ªìπºâ“πÿàß‚®ß°√–‡∫π ®÷ß¡—°¡’¢π“¥°«â“ß ·≈–¬“«°«à“ ºâ“πÿàß∏√√¡¥“ ¡‡¥Á®œ‡®â“øÑ“ °√¡æ√–¬“π√‘»√“πÿ«—¥µ‘«ß»å ∑√ßÕ∏‘∫“¬«à“ ºâ“ ¡ªí°¡’ Õß™π‘¥ §◊Õ ¡ªí°≈“¬ ”À√—∫¢ÿππ“ß ·µàß‡µÁ¡¬» ·≈– ¡ªí°‰À¡ ”À√—∫πÿàß ‡¢â“‡ΩÑ“‡«≈“ª°µ‘ Ò¯

Ÿß¡’¬Õ¥·À≈¡‰«â°—∫»’√…– ‡ ◊ÈÕ§√ÿ¬π’È‰¡à¡’§Õ‡ ◊ÈÕµ—Èß¢÷Èπ‰ª ·≈–·À«°‡ªî¥¥â“πÀπâ“ ‚¥¬ºŸâ·µàß¡‘‰¥â π„®∑’Ë®–°√–™—∫™“¬ „Àâª√°°—π‡æ◊ËÕªî¥Àπâ“∑âÕß¢Õßµπ·µàª√–°“√„¥ ·¢π‡ ◊ÈÕ π—Èπ¬“«∑Õ¥§≈ÿ¡≈ß¡“‡°◊Õ∫∂÷ß¢âÕ¡◊Õ °«â“ß√“« Ú øÿµ‚¥¬ √Õ∫ ‰¡à‡ÀÁπ∂°·¢π‡ ◊ÕÈ µÕπµâπ·¢πÀ√◊Õª≈“¬·¢π·µàÕ¬à“ß„¥ Õπ÷Ëßµ—«‡ ◊ÈÕ§√ÿ¬π—Èπ¬—ß·§∫¡“°°√–∑—Ëß‰¡à “¡“√∂ºà“π≈ß ·≈–§≈ÿ¡ºâ“πÿàß„Àâ¡‘¥™‘¥‰¥â §ß‡ªìπ√Õ¬°≈’∫´âÕπ°—πæ—∫Õ¬Ÿà °—∫∫—Èπ‡Õ«°√–π—Èπ...é Ò˘ °“√·µàß°“¬¢Õß¢ÿππ“ß ¬“¡ ¡—¬ Õ¬ÿ∏¬“¥—ß°≈à“« Õ¥§≈âÕß°—∫∑’Ë π‘ ‚°≈“ å ·™√å·« ™“« Ω√—Ë ß ‡» ∑’Ë ‡ ¢â “ ¡“¬— ß °√ÿ ß »√’ Õ ¬ÿ ∏ ¬“„π ¡— ¬ ¡‡¥Á ® æ√– π“√“¬≥å¡À“√“™‡™àπ‡¥’¬«°—π‰¥â∫π— ∑÷°‰«â«“à ç.. º“â πÿßà ¢Õßæ«° ¢ÿππ“ßπ—Èπ¿Ÿ¡‘∞“π ·≈–¡’§à“°«à“¢Õß™π™—Èπ “¡—≠ µ“¡ ª√°µ‘®–∑Õ Õ¥‡ âπ∑Õß·≈àß·≈–‡ âπ‡ß‘π·≈àß À√◊Õ‰¡à°Á‡ªìπ ºâ“≈“¬¥Õ°‡¢’¬π¡“®“°ª√–‡∑»Õ‘π‡¥’¬ ´÷ßË ‡√’¬°°—π«à“ Chitte ·Ààß Masulipatam æ«°¢ÿππ“ß «¡ π—∫‡æ≈“µ—¥¥â«¬ºâ“ ‡π◊ÈÕ¥’Õ¬Ÿà™—Èπ„πºâ“πÿàß ¡’ª≈“¬¢“µË”≈ß¡“°«à“À—«‡¢à“ ·≈– ª≈“¬¢“π’Èªí°¥‘Èπ∑Õß§”¥‘Èπ‡ß‘π ‡ªìπ≈«¥≈“¬ß¥ß“¡ „π ¢≥–∑’ËÕ“°“»√âÕπ¡“°Ê ‡¢“ «¡‡ ◊ÈÕ™—ÈππÕ°ºâ“ªÉ“π∫“ßÊ µ—¥‡ªìπ√Ÿª‡ ◊ÈÕ§√ÿ¬ ™“¬¬“«‰¡à‡°‘π π—∫‡æ≈“ ·µà„πƒ¥Ÿ∑’Ë¡’

ÒÛ

130

≈¡‡Àπ◊Õ ®– «¡‡ ◊ÕÈ πÕ°√—¥∑√ßµ—¥¥â«¬·æ√®’πªí°≈“¬¥‘πÈ ∑Õß ‡ß‘π À√◊Õºâ“ß“¡Ê ®“°¬ÿ‚√ª Àπâ“Õ°µ‘¥¥ÿ¡∂—°¥â«¬∑Õß·≈àß À√◊Õ‡ß‘π·≈àß‡ªìπ√–¬–Àà“ßÊ ª≈“¬·¢π‡ ◊ÈÕπ—Èπ°«â“ß¡“° ·≈–¢—¥¥ÿ¡‡À¡◊ÕπÕ¬à“ß‡ ◊ÈÕªî¥§≈ÿ¡§Õ√—¥‡Õ«¢Õß‡√“„π ¡—¬ °àÕπ ·≈–∫π‡ ◊ÈÕ√—¥∑√ßπ’È ‡¢“„™âºâ“§≈âÕß§Õ·∫∫π—°√∫ ‚∫√“≥¢Õß‡√“ ∑”¥â«¬·æ√®’π ªí°¥‘Èπ‡ß‘π§”À√◊Õ∑”¥â«¬ºâ“ ∑’Ëß“¡∑’Ë ÿ¥‡∑à“∑’Ë®–À“‰¥â„πª√–‡∑» ...™à“ßµ—¥√Õß‡∑â“°Á‰¡à §àÕ¬¡’§«“¡®”‡ªìπ‡∑à“Ê °—∫™à“ßµ—¥‡ ◊ÈÕ ‡À¡◊Õπ°—π ‡æ√“– ∑ÿ°§π‡¥‘π‡∑â“‡ª≈à“ πÕ°®“°æ«°¢ÿππ“ß‡∑à“π—Èπ∑’Ë„™â √Õß‡∑â“Àπ’∫·∫∫·¢°¡—«√å. .é Ú ‡§√◊ÕË ßπÿßà Àà¡¢Õß¢ÿππ“ß‡ªìπ ºâ “ ∑’Ë ‰¥â√—∫æ√–√“™∑“π®“°æ√–¡À“°…—µ√‘¬åµ“¡µ”·Àπàß à«π¡“°‡ªìπºâ“∑’Ë —Ëß¡“®“°µà“ßª√–‡∑» ‡™àπ ºâ“ ¡ªí° ºâ“ ¡ªí°°√«¬‡™‘ß æ√–√“™∑“π·°àº¡Ÿâ µ’ ”·Àπàß Ÿß ÿ¥™—πÈ ¡‡¥Á® ‡®â“æ√–¬“ ºâ“ ¡ªí°√‘«È ºâ“ ¡ªí°≈“¬ ”À√—∫ºŸ¡â µ’ ”·Àπàß™—πÈ ‡®â“°√¡ ª≈—¥°√¡ à«π ºâ“ ¡ªí°≈àÕß®«π æ√–√“™∑“π·°à ºŸâ¡’∫√√¥“»—°¥‘Ï‡ªìπÀ≈«ß ‡™àπ π“¬‡«√¡À“¥‡≈Á° ºâ“ ¡ªí° ≈àÕß®«π∑Õ¥â«¬‰À¡ ‡™‘ß‡ªìπ≈“¬·∂∫µà“ß ’ °≈“ßº◊π‰¡à¡≈’ “¬ ·≈–¡’ ’µà“ß‰ª®“°‡™‘ßºâ“ (∂â“∑Õ¬°∑Õß ‡√’¬° ºâ“¬°∑Õß ≈àÕß®«π) ¡ªí°≈“¬„™âπÿàß‡«≈“·µàß‡µÁ¡¬» à«π ¡ªí°‰À¡

π—Èπ ”À√—∫πÿàß‡«≈“‡¢â“‡ΩÑ“ ºâ“æ√–√“™∑“ππ’È¡—°‡°Á∫√—°…“‰«â Õ¬à“ß¥’ ®÷ß‰¡àπÿàß¡“®“°∫â“π ·µà¡“‡ª≈’Ë¬π°—π„π«—ß‡«≈“®– ‡¢â“‡ΩÑ“ ‡æ◊ËÕ√—°…“ºâ“‰¡à „Àâ‡°à“‡√Á« ÚÒ °“√æ√–√“™∑“πºâ“πÿàß „Àâ¢ÿππ“ß °“√„™âºâ“‡ªìπ∫”‡ÀπÁ®ª√–®”ªï¡’¡“µ—Èß·µà ¡—¬ Õ¬ÿ∏¬“·≈– ◊∫µàÕ¡“„π ¡—¬√—µπ‚° ‘π∑√å ´÷ËßµâÕß„™âºâ“‰À¡ æ√–√“™∑“πªïÀπ÷ßË Ê ‡ªìπ®”π«π¡“° ®πµâÕßµ—ßÈ ‚√ß‰À¡¢Õß À≈«ß¢÷Èπ‡æ◊ËÕ∑Õºâ“„™â „π√“™ ”π—° ·µàµàÕ¡“‡¡◊ËÕ‡≈‘°πÿàßºâ“ ¡ªí°·≈â«À—π¡“πÿßà ºâ“¡à«ß∑’ Ë ß—Ë ‡¢â“¡“®“°ª√–‡∑»®’π ‚√ß‰À¡ À≈«ß®÷ß‡≈‘°‰ª„π√“«√—™°“≈∑’Ë ı ÚÚ „π ¡—¬µâπ√—µπ‚° ‘π∑√åµß—È ·µà√™— °“≈∑’Ë Ò ∂÷ß√—™°“≈∑’Ë Û (æ.».ÚÛÚı ∂÷ß ÚÛ˘Ù) °“√·µàß°“¬¢Õß™π™—Èπ Ÿß ·≈– “¡—≠™π‰¡àµà“ß®“° ¡—¬Õ¬ÿ∏¬“π—° ¥—ß∑’Ëπ‘‚°≈“ å ·™√å·« ∫—π∑÷°‡√◊ËÕß°“√·µàß°“¬¢ÕßºŸâÀ≠‘ß ¡—¬Õ¬ÿ∏¬“‰«â«à“ ç‡§√◊ËÕß πÿàßÀà¡¢ÕßºŸâÀ≠‘ß‰¡à·ª≈°°«à“¢ÕßºŸâ™“¬‡∑à“‰√ ”À√—∫ºâ“πÿàß π—Èπ µ“¡ “¬µ“¢â“æ‡®â“‡ÀÁπ«à“ÕÕ°®–°«â“ß°«à“¢ÕßºŸâ™“¬ —°ÀπàÕ¬ π“ßª≈àÕ¬™“¬„Àâµ° °≈à“«§◊Õ‰¡à¡â«π‡ªìπ™“¬ °√–‡∫π‰ª‡ÀπÁ∫‰«â¢“â ßÀ≈—ß ª≈àÕ¬™“¬√–‡°◊Õ∫∂÷ßæ◊πÈ ¥‘π µ“¡ ª√°µ‘‡ªìπºâ“πÿàß ’¥” ´÷ËßºŸâÀ≠‘ß∂◊Õ°—π«à“ß“¡·≈–¿Ÿ¡‘∞“π ≈“ß∑’°∑Á Õ Õ¥‡ âπ∑Õß·≈àß‡ß‘π·≈àß ¡’º“â ·∂∫¡— ≈‘πº◊π·§∫Ê

§“¥Õ° à«πÕ◊Ëπ¢Õß√à“ß°“¬‡ª≈◊Õ¬À¡¥ æ«°ºŸâ¥’°Á®– —ß‡°µ ‰¥â®“° ’Àπâ“∑à“∑’Õ¬à“ßæ«°‡√“‡À¡◊Õπ°—π Õ—π∫Õ°≈—°…≥–πà“ ‡°√ß¢“¡·°àº‰Ÿâ ¥âæ∫‡ÀÁπ π‘«È «¡·À«π‡æ™√·≈–Õ—≠¡≥’µ“à ßÊ º‘«æ√√≥¢Õßæ«°ºŸâ¥’¡—°®–¢“«°«à“§π™—Èπ “¡—≠ ‡æ√“–‡Àµÿ ∑’Ë‰¡à§àÕ¬‰¥âÕÕ°®“°∫â“ππ—Ëπ‡Õß ·µà ”À√—∫ºŸâ™“¬ºŸâ¥’ ∑’Ë¡’º‘« §≈È”πâÕ¬°«à“§π™—πÈ “¡—≠‡æ’¬ß‡≈Á°πâÕ¬π—πÈ ‡¢“®–‚Õà«“à ∑’‡Ë ¢“ º‘«æ√√≥¢Õß‡¢“ºàÕß„ π—πÈ °Á‡π◊ÕË ß®“°∫ÿ≠°ÿ»≈∑’‡Ë ¢“‰¥â∫”‡æÁ≠ ¡“·µà™“µ‘ª“ß°àÕπ...é ÚÛ À≈—°∞“π∑’Ë· ¥ß∂÷ß°“√·µàß°“¬¢Õß§π‰∑¬„πÕ¥’µ∑’Ë ”§—≠Õ’°Õ¬à“ßÀπ÷Ëß§◊Õ ¿“æ®‘µ√°√√¡Ω“ºπ—ßÕÿ‚∫ ∂ ¡—¬ Õ¬ÿ∏¬“µÕπª≈“¬ ·≈–µâπ√—µπ‚° ‘π∑√å · ¥ß„Àâ‡ÀÁπ«à“ “¡—≠™π„™â‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡‡√’¬∫ßà“¬ πÿàß‚®ß°√–‡∫π¥â«¬ºâ“ æ◊Èπ ’¥”¬âÕ¡¡–‡°≈◊Õ∑’Ë∑Õ„π∑âÕß∂‘Ëπ¢Õßµπ µà“ß®“° µ√’ „π √“™ ”π—°∑’πË ¬‘ ¡πÿßà ‚®ß°√–‡∫π¥â«¬ ºâ“¬° ∑—ßÈ ºâ“¬°‰À¡ ·≈– ºâ“¬°∑Õß Àà¡ ‰∫·∫∫‡©’¬ß‰À≈à ·≈–ª≈àÕ¬™“¬¢â“ßÀ≈—ß ·≈–·∫∫µ≈∫™“¬‰ª¢â“ßÀ≈—ß·≈â«°≈—∫¡“∑∫∫à“‡æ◊ËÕ‰¡à „ Àâ ¥â“π‡©«’¬ß¬“«‡°‘π‰ª ‰∫™—Èπ„π‡ªìπ·æ√ ’µà“ßÊ ‰∫∑’ËÀà¡ §≈ÿ¡ À√◊Õ ºâ“∑√ß –æ—° ‡ªìπ ºâ“µ“¥ À√◊Õ ºâ“µ“¥∑Õß ºâ“ °√Õß∑Õß ºâ“∑’Ë „™â‡ªìπ‡§√◊ÕË ßπÿßà Àà¡¢Õß™π™—πÈ Ÿß à«π¡“°‡ªìπ

ºâ“¬° ºâ“∑’Ë∑Õ≈«¥≈“¬ ‡ªìπ¥Õ°¥â«¬°“√ Õ¥ ‡ âπ¬◊π·≈–‡ âπæÿßà ¢—¥°—π µ“¡∑’ËÕÕ°·∫∫≈“¬‰«â ≈«¥≈“¬¡—°πŸπ¢÷Èπ¡“®“°‡π◊ÈÕºâ“ ºâ“¬°∑’Ë∑Õ¥â«¬‰À¡‡√’¬° ºâ“¬°‰À¡ À“°∑Õ¥â«¬‰À¡∑Õß‡√’¬° ºâ“¬°∑Õß ºâ“¬°„πÕ¥’µ∑’Ë¡’§«“¡ß¥ß“¡¡“° §◊Õ ºâ“¬°‡¡◊Õßπ§√»√’∏√√¡√“™

ºâ“¬° ‡¡◊Õßπ§√»√’∏√√¡√“™ The traditional fabric called “pha yok” from Nakhon Si Thammarat.

131

«‘«—≤π“°“√‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡„π«‘∂’‰∑¬

ÒÛÒ

ºâ“≈“¬Õ¬à“ß ¡—¬√—µπ‚° ‘π∑√å “Pha laiyang” from the Rattanakosin period.

ºâ“∑’Ë —Ëß‡¢â“¡“®“°µà“ßª√–‡∑» ‡™àπ ºâ“‡¬’¬√∫—∫ ‡¢â¡¢“∫ Õ—µ≈—µ ´÷ßË ‡ªìπºâ“ª√–‡¿∑‡¥’¬«°—π ºâ“‡¬’¬√∫—∫‡ªìπºâ“™—πÈ ¥’ √Õß ≈ß¡“§◊Õºâ“‡¢â¡¢“∫ ·≈–ºâ“Õ—µ≈—µ‡ªìπºâ“™—Èπ “¡ ¡’§ÿ≥¿“æ ¥âÕ¬°«à“ºâ“‡¬’¬√∫—∫·≈–‡¢â¡¢“∫ ‡π◊ËÕß®“°¡’‡ âπ‡ß‘π·≈àß ·≈–∑Õß·≈àßπâÕ¬ ºâ“‡À≈à“π’È¡’≈«¥≈“¬·≈– ’ —π «¬ß“¡ µà“ß®“°ºâ“æ◊Èπ∫â“π∑’Ë∑Õ¥â«¬ΩÑ“¬À√◊Õ‰À¡æ◊ÈπÊ ‰¡àπ‘¬¡ Õ¥·≈àß‡ß‘πÀ√◊Õ∑Õß ™π™—Èπ Ÿß®÷ßπ‘¬¡ —Ëß´◊ÈÕ¡“„™â‡ªìπ ‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡µ—Èß·µà ¡—¬Õ¬ÿ∏¬“‡√◊ËÕ¬¡“ ·¡â „π ¡—¬æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–æÿ∑∏‡≈‘»À≈â“π¿“≈—¬ √—™°“≈∑’Ë Ú (æ.».ÚÛıÚ ∂÷ß ÚÛˆ˜) °“√„™âºâ“™π‘¥µà“ßÊ ”À√—∫πÿàßÀà¡„π°≈ÿà¡™π ™—Èπ Ÿß„π√“™ ”π—°¡‘ ‰¥â‡ª≈’Ë¬π‰ªπ—° ¬—ß§ß√—°…“·∫∫·ºπ ◊∫¡“·µà√—™°“≈∑’Ë Ò ‡æ’¬ß·µà —Ëß´◊ÈÕ ºâ“‚À¡¥ ‡¢â“¡“µ—¥ ‡ ◊È Õ ¢Õß‡®â “ π“¬™—È π Ÿ ß µà Õ ¡“æ√–¡À“°…— µ √‘ ¬å ∑ √ß æ√–√“™∑“πºâ“™π‘¥π’È „Àâ·°àæ«°·¡à∑—æπ“¬°Õß∑’Ë∑”§«“¡¥’ §«“¡™Õ∫ πÕ°®“°π’È¬—ß¡’ ºâ“ à“π ‡ªìπºâ“¢π —µ«å·∫∫‚∫√“≥¢Õß ‡ªÕ√å‡´’¬ ‡¥‘¡∑Õ¥â«¬‰À¡º ¡°—∫¢πÕŸ∞ µàÕ¡“‡ª≈’Ë¬π¡“„™â

ÒÛÚ

132

¢π·°– ·≈–¢π —µ«åÕ◊Ëπ∑Õ°—∫‰À¡À√◊ÕΩÑ“¬ ‰∑¬ —Ëß‡¢â“¡“ ∑”‡ªìπºâ“Àà¡ ºâ“§≈ÿ¡ ·≈–„™â‡ªìπºâ“§“¥æÿß ·µà ‰¡àπ“π°Á ‡≈‘°„™â‡æ√“–¡’º“â ™π‘¥Õ◊πË ‡¢â“¡“„™â·∑π ‡™àπ ºâ“·æ√≈“¬¥Õ° æÿ¥µ“π ∑’Ë —Ëß¡“®“°®’π ¡’≈«¥≈“¬·≈– ’ —πµà“ßÊ °—π à«π ¡“° π‘¬¡≈“¬¥Õ°‰¡â∑π’Ë ”¡“ªí°≈“¬¥â«¬‰À¡‡ √‘¡‡¢â“‰ª ‡æ◊ÕË „™â‡ªìπºâ“Àà¡À√◊Õºâ“ ‰∫ „™â ‰¥â∑—ÈßÀ≠‘ß·≈–™“¬ πÕ°®“°π’È ¡’º“â ·æ√Õ’°™π‘¥Àπ÷ßË §◊Õ ºâ“·æ√Àπ—ß‰°à ¡’∑ß—È ºâ“·æ√æ◊πÈ ·≈– ªí°≈“¬ π‘¬¡„™â°—π„πÀ¡Ÿà “¡—≠™π∑—Ë«‰ª ºâ“∑’Ëπ‘¬¡ —Ëß‡¢â“¡“„™â „π√“™ ”π—°Õ’°™π‘¥Àπ÷Ëß‡ªìπºâ“ æ‘¡æå∑’Ë™à“ß‰∑¬æ—≤π“¢÷Èπ¡“®“°ºâ“¬°‰À¡·≈–ºâ“ªí° ´÷ËßµâÕß „™â§«“¡ª√–≥’µ¡“° ‡ ’¬‡«≈“¡“° ®÷ß„™â°“√æ‘¡æå·≈–·µâ¡ ’·∑π ‡æ√“–∑”‰¥âßà“¬·≈–√«¥‡√Á« ™à“ß‰∑¬®–ÕÕ°·∫∫ ≈«¥≈“¬ àß‰ª„Àâ™“à ß™“«Õ‘π‡¥’¬æ‘¡æå·≈â« àß°≈—∫‡¢â“¡“„™â „π √“™ ”π—° ‡√’¬° ºâ“≈“¬Õ¬à“ß ºâ“™π‘¥π’æÈ ¡‘ æå¥«â ¬·¡àæ¡‘ æå ‰¡â ≈ß ’¥”‡ªìπ≈«¥≈“¬µà“ßÊ ≈ß∫πºâ“ ’¢“« ∂â“µâÕß°“√„Àâæ◊Èπ ‡ªìπ ’°Á¬âÕ¡ ’∑’ËµâÕß°“√À≈—ß®“°æ‘¡æå≈“¬·≈â« Õ“®·µâ¡ ’≈ß ‰ª√–À«à“ß≈“¬„Àâ¡’ ’ —π «¬ß“¡¬‘Ëß¢÷Èπ

„π√— ™ °“≈æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á ® æ√–æÿ ∑ ∏‡≈‘ » À≈â “ π¿“≈— ¬ √—™°“≈∑’Ë Ú ™à“ß‰∑¬π”ºâ“≈“¬Õ¬à“ß¡“‡¢’¬π‡ âπ∑Õßµ“¡ ¢Õ∫≈“¬‡æ‘Ë¡‡µ‘¡‡√’¬° ºâ“‡¢’¬π∑Õß À√◊Õ ºâ“≈“¬‡¢’¬π∑Õß „™â‡ªìπºâ“πÿàß ”À√—∫æ√–¡À“°…—µ√‘¬å≈ß¡“®π∂÷ß‡®â“π“¬™—Èπ æ√–Õß§å‡®â“‚¥¬°”‡π‘¥ Àâ“¡ºŸâ¡’¬»µË”°«à“π’È „™âπÿàßÀà¡ ≈“¬∑’Ë π‘¬¡‡¢’¬π§◊Õ ≈“¬‡∑æπ¡ ≈“¬æ√À¡ ’ÀË πâ“ °â“π¢¥°‘ππ√√” æ—π∏ÿåæƒ°…“ ·≈– æÿà¡¢â“«∫‘≥±å ‡ªìπµâπ ≈«¥≈“¬‡À≈à“π’È ‡¢â“„®«à“‰¥â·∫∫Õ¬à“ß¡“®“°≈«¥≈“¬„πß“π®‘µ√°√√¡‰∑¬ ·≈–≈«¥≈“¬∫π‡§√◊ËÕß∂â«¬‚∫√“≥ ‚¥¬‡©æ“–≈«¥≈“¬¢Õß ‡§√◊ËÕß∂â«¬‡∫≠®√ß§å ‡æ√“–≈«¥≈“¬§≈â“¬§≈÷ß°—π ºâ“≈“¬Õ¬à“ß·≈–ºâ“‡¢’¬π∑Õß ¡—°‡ªìπºâ“º◊π„À≠à °«â“ß À≈“‡»… ¬“«ª√–¡“≥ “¡À≈“§√÷Ëß∂÷ß ’ËÀ≈“§√÷Ëß „™â‡ªìπºâ“ πÿàßºŸâ™“¬·≈–ºŸâÀ≠‘ß ∂â“‡ªìπºâ“ ”À√—∫ºŸâÀ≠‘ßº◊π®–‡≈Á°°«à“ ‚¥¬∑—Ë«‰ªºŸâ™“¬®–πÿàßºâ“°√«¬‡™‘ßÀ≈“¬™—Èπ à«πºŸâÀ≠‘ßπÿàßºâ“ °√«¬‡™‘ß™—Èπ‡¥’¬« ·µà∂â“‡ªìπ°“√ÕÕ°ß“πæ‘∏’®–πÿàßºâ“ °√«¬‡™‘ßÀ≈“¬™—Èπ∑—ÈßÀ≠‘ß·≈–™“¬ ‡À≈à“¢ÿππ“ß¡—°‰¥â√—∫ æ√–√“™∑“πºâ “ °√«¬‡™‘ ß À≈“¬™—È π ®“°æ√–¡À“°…— µ √‘ ¬å ‡æ√“–‡ªìπºâ“∑’Ë —Ëß‡¢â“¡“‡ªìπ®”π«π¡“° §ÿ≥¿“æ¢Õßºâ“®÷ß ‰¡à‡ ¡Õ°—π ºâ“∑’Ë¡’§ÿ≥¿“æ√ÕßÊ ≈ß¡“®÷ßæ√–√“™∑“π„Àâ ¢â“√“™∫√‘æ“√À√◊Õ®”Àπà“¬„Àâ·°à§À∫¥’·≈– “¡—≠™π ®π‡°‘¥ §«“¡π‘¬¡„πÀ¡Ÿàª√–™“™π µàÕ¡“™à“ß™“«Õ‘π‡¥’¬‰¥â‡¢’¬π ≈“¬‡≈’¬π·∫∫≈“¬∑’™Ë “à ß‰∑¬ àß‰ª·≈â« æ‘¡æå ßà ‡¢â“¡“¢“¬„π À¡Ÿªà √–™“™π‡√’¬°«à“ ºâ“≈“¬πÕ°Õ¬à“ß À√◊Õ‡√’¬°°—π¿“¬À≈—ß «à“ ºâ“æ‘¡æå ºâ“™π‘¥π’¡È °— ∑”‡≈’¬π·∫∫¢ÕßÀ≈«ß ∑—ßÈ ·∫∫¡’‡™‘ß ·≈–‰¡à¡‡’ ™‘ß „™â‡ªìπºâ“πÿßà ºâ“Àà¡ ·≈–ºâ“§≈ÿ¡¥â«¬ ‡æ√“–‡ªìπ ºâ“º◊π„À≠à „™âª√–‚¬™πå ‰¥âÀ≈“¬Õ¬à“ß ºâ “ æ‘ ¡ æå ≈ “¬Õ¬à “ ß à « π¡“°¡“®“°‡¡◊ Õ ßÕ–‡¡¥“∫— ¥ (Ahamedabad) ·≈–‡¡◊Õß ÿÀ√—¥ (Surat) ·§«âπ°ÿ √“¥ À√◊Õ °ÿ™√“µ (Gujarat) ª√–‡∑»Õ‘π‡¥’¬ ‡¡◊Õß∑—Èß Õß‡ªìπ·À≈àß º≈‘µºâ“ àß‡¢â“¡“¢“¬„πª√–‡∑»‰∑¬¡“·µà ‚∫√“≥ ‡™àπ ºâ“ °ÿ √“¥ À√◊Õ °ÿ»–À√“¥ ®“°·§«âπ°ÿ™√“¥‡ªìπºâ“ΩÑ“¬‡π◊ÕÈ Àπ“ ·≈–À¬“∫ ·µà ’ ‰¡àµ° §π‰∑¬π”¡“∑”ºâ“Àà¡ ºâ“πÿàß ·≈–ºâ“ ÀàÕ§—¡¿’√å π‘¬¡„™â¡“·µà§√—Èß°√ÿß»√’Õ¬ÿ∏¬“ à«πºâ“∑’Ë¡“®“° ‡¡◊Õß∑à“ ÿÀ√—¥‡√’¬° ºâ“ ÿÀ√—¥ ‡ªìπºâ“∑’™Ë “«æ◊πÈ ‡¡◊Õßæ‘¡æå≈“¬ ≈ß∫πºâ“¢“«∑’ Ë ß—Ë ¡“®“°ª√–‡∑»Õ—ß°ƒ… æàÕ§â“Õ‘π‡¥’¬π”‡¢â“ ¡“¢“¬„Àâ§π‰∑¬„™â‡ªìπºâ“πÿàß°—π∑—Ë«‰ª ¡‡¥Á®œ ‡®â“øÑ“°√¡æ√–¬“π√‘»√“πÿ«¥— µ‘«ß»å ∑√ßπ‘æπ∏å ‰«â«à“ºâ“≈“¬Õ¬à“ß∑’Ë „™â‡ªìπºâ“πÿàß¡’ Ù ™π‘¥§◊Õ ç...Ò. ºâ“∑âÕß·¥ß ¡’‡™Õß≈“¬ ¡’™“¬°√«¬À≈“¬™—Èπ ‡ÀÁπ ·µà®–¡’Õ’°À≈“¬ ’ ‡§Õ¬‡ÀÁπÀπ—ß ◊Õ¡’«à“ ç¿Ÿ…“æ◊ÈπµÕß∑Õß æ√√≥é ‡ÀÁπ®–‰¥â·°àºâ“™π‘¥π’È Ú. ºâ“∑âÕß≈“¬ ¡’‡™Õß¡’™“¬°√«¬À≈“¬™—Èπ Û. ºâ“∑âÕß≈“¬ ¡’‡™Õß·∂∫Ê ™“¬°√«¬™—Èπ‡¥’¬« 133

Ù. ºâ“∑âÕß≈“¬ ¡’™“¬°√«¬™—Èπ‡¥’¬« ‰¡à¡’‡™Õß ºâ“°√«¬ À≈“¬™—Èπ∑’®– ”À√—∫ºŸâ™“¬πÿàß ºâ“°√«¬™—Èπ‡¥’¬«∑’®– ”À√—∫ ºŸâÀ≠‘ßπÿàß ƒÂπ—¬Àπ÷Ëßºâ“°√«¬ “¡™—Èπ®– ”À√—∫πÿàß‡«≈“ÕÕ° ß“π°“√∑—ßÈ ºŸÀâ ≠‘ßºŸ™â “¬ ºâ“™“¬°√«¬™—πÈ ‡¥’¬« ”À√—∫πÿßà µ“¡ ª°µ‘ ∑—ÈßºŸâÀ≠‘ßºŸâ™“¬°Á‡ÀÁπ®–‡ªπÕ¬à“ßÀ≈—ßπ’È¡“°°«à“ ºâ“≈“¬Õ¬à“ß´÷Ëß‡√’¬°„π∑’Ëπ’È À¡“¬§«“¡®”‡æ“–ºâ“∑’Ë‡ªπ ≈“¬‰∑ ºŸ°ß“¡‡¢â“·∫∫·ºπ ‡£â“„®«à“‡ªπ¢Õßæ√–‡®â“·ºàπ¥‘π ƒÂºŸâ¡’∫—π¥“»—°¥‘Ï §—¥™à“ßΩï¡◊Õ¥’∑”µ—«Õ¬à“ß —Ëß πÕ°®“°π—Èπ ¬—ß¡’ºâ“Õ’° Õß®”æ«° ®”æ«°Àπ÷Ëß‡ªπ≈“¬‰∑‡À¡◊Õπ°—π·µà ‰¡àß“¡ ƒÂ∫“ß∑’§≈“»‡§≈◊ÕË π ‡£â“„®«à“§πÕ¬“°‰¥âº“â ≈“¬Õ¬à“ß °—π¡“° ·¢°°ÁÀ“™à“ß‡∂◊ËÕπ‡¢’¬πÕ¬à“ß ƒÂÀ“ºâ“≈“¬Õ¬à“ß àß‰ª‡ªπÕ¬à“ß —Ëß‡¢â“¡“ ≈“¬®÷ß∑√“¡‰ª...é ÚÙ ºâ “ ≈“¬Õ¬à “ ßÀ√◊ Õ ºâ “ æ‘ ¡ æå ® “°Õ‘ π ‡¥’ ¬ ‡¢â “ ¡“„π ¡— ¬ µâπ√—µπ‚° ‘π∑√å √ÿàπ·√°Ê ‡ªìπºâ“ΩÑ“¬≈“¬¥Õ°‡≈Á°Ê ‡√’¬° ºâ“¬Ë”¡–À«“¥ À√◊Õºâ“≈“¬©’°À√◊Õ≈“¬®‘µ√ Õ“®¡“®“°¿“…“ Œ‘π¥’«“à ™’µ (chitte) ·ª≈«à“ºâ“ΩÑ“¬æ‘¡æå‡ªìπ¥Õ°À≈“¬ ’ à«π ºâ“≈“¬√ÿπà À≈—ß∑’‡Ë ¢â“¡“¢“¬„π ¡—¬√—™°“≈∑’Ë ı ∂÷ß√—™°“≈∑’Ë ˜ ‡√’¬° ºâ“≈“¬·¢° ¡’®”Àπà“¬∑—Ë«‰ª‡ªìπº◊πÊ À√◊Õ‡ªìπ°ÿ≈’ °ÿ≈’Àπ÷Ëß¡’ Ú º◊π ¡’µ√“µà“ßÊ °—π‡™àπ ºâ“≈“¬¡— °“µ’®“° ∫Õ¡‡∫¬å‡ªìπºâ“‡π◊ÕÈ ¥’ ’ «¬ ·≈–‡ªìπºâ“∑’‡Ë √‘¡Ë „™â «’ ∑‘ ¬“»“ µ√å ·≈â« „π™à«ßª√–¡“≥ª≈“¬√—™°“≈∑’Ë ı ¡’ ‚√ßß“πºâ“¡— °“µ’ ∑’Ë °ÿ ™ √“¥º≈‘ µ ºâ “ ≈“¬‰∑¬‡¢â “ ¡“®”Àπà “ ¬„πª√–‡∑»‰∑¬ ‚¥¬‡©æ“– µàÕ¡“¡’º“â æ‘¡æå≈“¬‰∑¬®“°≠’ªË πÿÉ àß‡¢â“¡“¢“¬·¢àß °—∫Õ‘π‡¥’¬·µà∑”‰¡à «¬‡À¡◊Õπºâ“æ‘¡æå®“°Õ‘π‡¥’¬ ®“°π—πÈ „π ªïæ.».ÚÙ˜ı ¡’ºŸâ§‘¥∑”ºâ“æ‘¡æå¢÷Èπ„πª√–‡∑»‰∑¬ ∑”„Àâ ºâ“æ‘¡æå≈“¬‰∑¬æ—≤π“§ÿ≥¿“æ·≈– ’ —π µ≈Õ¥®π≈«¥≈“¬ „Àâ·ª≈°ÕÕ°‰ª®π‡ªìπ∑’πË ¬‘ ¡Õ¬Ÿ√à –¬–Àπ÷ßË ‡√’¬° ºâ“≈“¬ À√◊Õ ºâ“≈“¬‰∑¬ „™â‡ªìπºâ“‚®ß°√–‡∫π ·≈–ºâ“∂ÿß¢ÕßºŸâÀ≠‘ß „π√—™°“≈æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–π—ßË ‡°≈â“‡®â“Õ¬ŸÀà «— √—™°“≈∑’Ë Û (æ.».ÚÛˆ˜ ∂÷ß ÚÛ˘Ù) ·∫∫·ºπ°“√·µàß°“¬¡‘‰¥â‡ª≈’¬Ë π ‰ª®“°‡¥‘¡¡“°π—° ¬—ß§ß‡ªìπ≈—°…≥–°“√πÿàßÀà¡Õ¬Ÿà‡™àπ‡¥‘¡ ‡©æ“–æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–‡®â“Õ¬ŸàÀ—«√—™°“≈∑’Ë Û ∑√ßæÕ æ√–∑—¬∑’®Ë –∑√ß‡æ’¬ßæ√–¿Ÿ…“‚®ß°√–‡∫π‡∑à“π—πÈ ‰¡à∑√ß‡ ◊ÕÈ πÕ°®“°ß“πæ√–√“™æ‘∏ ’ ”§—≠®÷ß∑√ß‡ ◊ÕÈ ç..∂â“ƒ¥ŸÀπ“« ‡®â“ ∑√ß‡ ◊ÈÕ ’™—Èπ‡¥’¬« §“¥ à“π∫â“ß ·æ√ ’∫â“ß ¢ÿππ“ß «¡ ‡ ◊ÈÕ‡¢â¡¢“∫Õ—µ≈—¥ ·æ√ ’ Ú ™—Èπ∑’Ë„¥âæ√–√“™∑“π ‡ π“∫¥’ §“¥ à“π ∂â“«—π‰Àπ∑’ËÕ“°“»‰¡àÀπ“« À√◊Õƒ¥Ÿ√âÕπ ºŸâ„¥ «¡ ‡ ◊ÈÕ‡¢â“‡ΩÑ“°Á‰¡à‚ª√¥...é Úı ®“°æ√–√“™æß»“«¥“√¥—ß°≈à“« ®–‡ÀÁπ«à“ æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–‡®â“Õ¬ŸÀà «— √—™°“≈∑’Ë Û ‰¡à‚ª√¥ °“√∑√ß‡ ◊ÈÕ ∑”„Àâ¢ÿππ“ß·≈–¢â“√“™∫√‘æ“√¥”‡π‘π√Õ¬ µ“¡æ√–Õß§å¥â«¬°“√‰¡à «¡‡ ◊ÈÕ‰ª¥â«¬ ∑—Èß¢≥–Õ¬Ÿà∫â“π ·≈–·¡â·µà¢≥–‡¢â“‡ΩÑ“ ‡æ√“–‡°√ß«à“ ºŸâ „¥ «¡‡ ◊ÈÕ‡¢â“‡ΩÑ“ ®–‰¡à ‚ª√¥ «‘«—≤π“°“√‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡„π«‘∂’‰∑¬

ÒÛÛ

ºâ“µ“¥ ºâ“∑’Ë∑Õ¥â«¬‰À¡√à«¡°—∫ ·≈àß‡ß‘πÀ√◊Õ·≈àß∑Õß ∂â“∑Õ‰À¡¢“«°—∫ ‡ âπ‡ß‘π∑’Ë·≈àß‡ªìπ√‘È«‡≈Á°Ê ‡√’¬° µ“¥‡ß‘π À“°∑Õ∑Õß·≈àß°—∫‰À¡ ‡√’¬° µ“¥∑Õß ∑Õß·≈àß §◊Õ·ºàπ‡ß‘π°–‰À≈à∑Õß (·ºàπ‡ß‘π∑“ª√Õ∑·≈â«∑“∑Õß) ∑Õ¬°‡ªìπ¥Õ° ’Ë‡À≈’Ë¬¡‡√’¬° µ“¥µ“µ—Í°·µπ ∂â“¬°‡ªìπ¥Õ°§¥°√‘™ ‡√’¬° µ“¥§¥°√‘™ ∂â“ªí°‰À¡∑—∫ ‡ªìπ¥Õ°‰¡â‡√’¬° µ“¥√–°”‰À¡ µ“¥∑Õß∑’Ëπ”ªï°·¡ß∑—∫¡“ª√–¥—∫ ‡√’¬° µ“¥ªï°·¡≈ß∑—∫ ºâ“™π‘¥π’È —ππ‘…∞“π«à“¡“®“°Õ‘π‡¥’¬ À√◊Õ‡ªÕ√å‡´’¬ (µ“¥ „π¿“…“‡ªÕ√å‡´’¬ ·ª≈«à“ ∑Õ) ºâ“µ“¥ ¡—°„™â‡ªìπºâ“∑√ß –æ—° Àà¡∑—∫ ‰∫Õ’°∑’Àπ÷ËßÀ√◊Õ„™â‡ªìπºâ“§“¥‡Õ« ¢Õß‡®â“π“¬ºŸâ™“¬„π√“™ ”π—° ºâ“°√Õß∑Õß ºâ“∑’Ë∂—°¥â«¬‡ âπ‰À¡ À√◊Õ∑Õß·≈àß‡ªìπµ“‚ª√àßÊ ∫“ßº◊πª√–¥—∫ ¥â«¬ªï°·¡≈ß∑—∫ ¡—°„™â‡ªìπºâ“Àà¡∑—∫ ‰∫ À√◊Õ„™â‡ªìπ‡ ◊ÈÕ§√ÿ¬‡√’¬° §√ÿ¬°√Õß∑Õß ºâ“‡¢â¡¢“∫ ·≈– ºâ“Õ—µ≈—µ ‡ªìπºâ“∑’Ë —Ëß´◊ÈÕ¡“®“°Õ‘π‡¥’¬À√◊Õ‡ªÕ√å‡´’¬ ºâ“‡¢â¡¢“∫ ∑Õ¥â«¬‡ß‘π°–‰À≈à∑Õß °—∫‰À¡ ’µà“ßÊ ‡ÀÁπ ’∑Õß°—∫ ’æ◊Èπ‡∑à“Ê °—π ¡—°‡ÀÁπ≈“¬∑Õß‡ªìπ√‘È« ≈—∫¥Õ° „™â‡ªìπ ‡ ◊ÈÕ™π™—Èπ Ÿß ºâ“§≈ÿ¡ À√◊Õºâ“ÀàÕ§—¡¿’√å ºâ“Õ—µ≈—µ ‡ªìπºâ“ª√–‡¿∑‡¥’¬«°—π ·µà¡’≈“¬πâÕ¬ ‡ÀÁπ ’æ◊Èπ¡“° „™â‡ªìπ‡ ◊ÈÕºŸâ™“¬·≈–ºŸâÀ≠‘ß„π√“™ ”π—° À√◊Õ„™â‡ªìπºâ“§≈ÿ¡ ‘Ëß¢Õß ºâ“‚À¡¥ ºâ“∑’Ë∑Õ¥â«¬‰À¡ º ¡°—∫°√–¥“…∑Õß∑’Ëµ—¥‡ªìπ‡ âπ ‡À¡◊Õπ·≈àß∑Õß ∂â“„™â ‰À¡ ’‡À≈◊Õß∑Õ ‡√’¬°«à“ ‚À¡¥‡À≈◊Õß ∂â“„™â ‰À¡ ’·¥ß∑Õ‡√’¬° ‚À¡¥·¥ß ∂â“∑Õ¥â«¬‰À¡ ’‡¢’¬« ‡√’¬° ‚À¡¥‡¢’¬« µàÕ¡“‰¥âæ—≤π“¡“„™â°√–¥“…∑Õß æ—π‡ âπ‰À¡ ∑Õ°—∫‰À¡ ’ À“°∑Õ®“°ª√–‡∑»Õ‘π‡¥’¬ ‡√’¬° ‚À¡¥‡∑» ∂â“∑Õ®“°≠’ËªÿÉπ‡√’¬° ‚À¡¥≠’ËªÿÉπ ºâ“ à“π ºâ“®“°‡ªÕ√å‡´’¬ ‡√’¬° Shal ∑Õ¥â«¬¢πÕŸ∞ „™â‡ªìπºâ“§“¥‡Õ« ºâ“Àà¡ ºâ“¢π —µ«åÕ’°™π‘¥Àπ÷Ëß∑’Ëπ‘¬¡„™â „π√“™ ”π—°§◊Õ ºâ“°”æ≈ À√◊Õ ºâ“√—µπ°”æ≈ À¡“¬∂÷ßºâ“¢π —µ«å ’·¥ß º≈‘µ„π¬ÿ‚√ª ∑”‡≈’¬π·∫∫ºâ“ à“π·§™‡¡’¬√å ®÷ß‡√’¬° ·§™‡¡’¬√å´Õ≈ „™â‡ªìπºâ“§“¥‡Õ« À√◊Õ√—¥ª√–§¥ ºâ“∂ÿß §◊Õºâ“∑’Ë‡¬Á∫‡ªìπ∑√ß°√–∫Õ° ‡√’¬° ºâ“∂ÿß ”‡√Á® ”À√—∫πÿàß ‡™àπ‡¥’¬«°—∫´‘Ëπ ·µà¡—°‡ªìπºâ“æ◊Èπ ’µà“ßÊ ‡™àπ ’¥” À√◊Õ¡’≈“¬Õ¬à“ß∑’Ë‡√’¬° ºâ“≈“¬ À√◊Õºâ“æ‘¡æå≈“¬ °≈à“«°—π«à“¡’¡“µ—Èß·µà ¡—¬√—™°“≈∑’Ë ı À√◊Õ√—™°“≈∑’Ë ˆ

§√—Èπ∂÷ß√—™°“≈æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–®Õ¡‡°≈â“‡®â“Õ¬ŸàÀ—« √—™°“≈∑’Ë Ù (æ.».ÚÛ˘Ù ∂÷ß ÚÙÒÒ) ∑√ß‡ÀÁπ«à“ ¢â“√“™°“√ ‡¢â“‡ΩÑ“‰¡à «¡‡ ◊ÈÕ ∫“ß§π‡ªìπ°≈“° ‡°≈◊ÈÕπ ‰¡à‡®√‘≠µ“ ®÷ß‚ª√¥‡°≈â“œ „Àâ¢â“√“™∫√‘æ“√∑’Ë‡¢â“‡ΩÑ“µâÕß «¡‡ ◊ÈÕ∑ÿ°§π ´÷Ëß‡ªìπ®ÿ¥‡√‘Ë¡µâπ¢Õß°“√ªØ‘√Ÿª°“√·µàß°“¬§√—Èß ”§—≠ ‚¥¬ æ√–Õß§å∑√ß‡ªìπºŸâπ”¥â«¬°“√©≈Õßæ√–Õß§åÕ¬à“ßΩ√—Ëß ·µà °√–π—Èπ°Áµ“¡ ΩÉ“¬„π¬—ß§ß·µàß°“¬µ“¡·∫∫·ºπ∑’Ë ◊∫¡“ ·µà√—™°“≈°àÕπ §◊Õπÿàßºâ“®’∫ Àà¡ ‰∫°—πÕ¬Ÿà∑—Ë«‰ª µàÕ¡“„π√—™°“≈æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–®ÿ≈®Õ¡‡°≈â“‡®â“Õ¬ŸÀà «— √—™°“≈∑’Ë ı (æ.».ÚÙÒÒ ∂÷ß ÚÙıÛ) Õ—π‡ªìπ¬ÿ§¢Õß°“√ ªØ‘√Ÿªª√–‡∑»Õ¬à“ß·∑â®√‘ß ‚¥¬‡©æ“–‡¡◊ËÕ°≈—∫®“°‡ ¥Á®œ ª√–æ“ ¬ÿ‚√ª·≈â« (‡ ¥Á®œ ª√–æ“ ¬ÿ‚√ª Ú §√—Èß §√—Èß·√° æ.».ÚÙÙ §√—ßÈ ∑’ Ë Õß æ.».ÚÙÙ˘ ∂÷ß ÚÙı) ∑√ß√—∫·∫∫ Õ¬à“ß«—≤π∏√√¡µ–«—πµ°¡“„™â°—∫ª√–‡∑» ¬“¡À≈“¬Õ¬à“ß µ—Èß·µà°“√µ—¥∂ππ °“√ √â“ßæ√–∑’ËπË—ß·≈–Õ“§“√∫â“π‡√◊Õπ ·∫∫µ–«—πµ° ®π∂÷ß°“√π”·∫∫Õ¬à“ß°“√·µàß°“¬¢Õß™“« µ–«—πµ°‡¢â“¡“„π√“™ ”π—° ∑√ß‡√‘¡Ë „Àâ¢“â √“™°“√πÿßà ºâ“¡à«ß ·∑πºâ“ ¡ªí°∑’Ëπÿàß°—π¡“·µà ¡—¬Õ¬ÿ∏¬“ µ“¡∑’Ë ‰¥â∑√ßÕÕ° ª√–°“»‡√◊ÕË ß°“√·µàß°“¬«à“ ç..¥«â ¬∏√√¡‡π’¬¡¢â“√“™°“√πÿßà ¡ªí°ªŸ¡ ªí°‡™‘ß ªí°≈àÕß®«π ªí°√‘«È ‡ΩÑ“π—πÈ °Á‡ªìπ∏√√¡‡π’¬¡ ¡“·µà‚∫√“≥ ·µà¢â“√“™°“√ª≈ß„®‡ ’¬«à“‡ªìπºâ“À≈«ß‰¥â¡“ Õ¬à“ß‰√°Á„™â‰ªÕ¬à“ßπ—Èπ À“„§√à‡Õ“„®„ à∫”√ÿß√—°…“„Àâ –Õ“¥ ‰¡à ‡À¡Áπ “∫ “ß‡ªóôÕπ‡ª√Õ–¢¡ÿ°¢¡Õ¡·≈–©’°¢“¥ °Á„™â πÿàß¡“‡ΩÑ“ ‰¡à‡ªìπ∑’Ë‡®√‘≠æ√–‡°’¬√µ‘ ºâ“ ¡ªí°ªŸ¡‡¢¡√ √â“ß¡“·µà‡¡◊Õß‡¢¡√ à«π¡“°‡√’¬° «à“ ªŸ¡‡¢¡√ ∑’Ë‡¡◊Õß‡¢¡√„™âπÿàßÀà¡∑—Èß‰æ√àºŸâ¥’∑—Ë«‰ª‡ªìπæ◊Èπ ‰∑¬¡“„™â‡ªìπºâ“∫Õ°‡§√◊ËÕß¬» ¥Ÿ‡À¡◊Õπ‡Õ“Õ¬à“ß‡¢¡√¡“ „™â‰¡àß¥ß“¡ ‰¡à‡ªìπÕ¬à“ß‰∑¬ ®÷ß‚ª√¥‡°≈â“œ „Àâ∫√¡√“™«ß»å ·≈–¢ÿππ“ß∑—ßÈ ª«ßπÿßà ºâ“¡à«ß ’πÈ”‡ß‘π·°à·∑π ¡ªí° ·≈– «¡ ‡ ◊ÕÈ µà“ßÊ µ“¡‡«≈“..é Úˆ ®“°ª√–°“»¥—ß°≈à“«®÷ß‡ªìπ°“√ ‘πÈ ÿ¥¬ÿ§ºâ“ ¡ªí° À√◊Õºâ“ªŸ¡ ·µà‡ªìπ°“√‡√‘¡Ë µâπ¢Õß¬ÿ§ ºâ“¡à«ß ´÷Ëß‡ªìπºâ“·æ√™π‘¥Àπ÷Ëß∑Õ¥â«¬‰À¡ ‡Àµÿ∑’Ë‡√’¬°ºâ“¡à«ßÕ“® ‡ªìπ‡æ√“–√–¬–·√°∑’Ë —Ëß‡¢â“¡“®“°ª√–‡∑»®’π¡’·µà ’¡à«ß ®÷ß‡√’¬°ºâ“™π‘¥π’È«à“ºâ“¡à«ß‡√◊ËÕ¬¡“ ·¡â®–‡ªìπ ’Õ◊Ëπ°Áµ“¡ °≈à“«°—π«à“ºâ“¡à«ß∑’Ë¡“®“°‡¡◊Õß®’ππÿàß‰¡à ∫“¬‡À¡◊Õπºâ“∑’Ë ∑Õ„π‡¡◊Õß‰∑¬ ‡™àπ ºâ“À“ß°√–√Õ° ®“°Õ”‡¿Õªí°∏ß™—¬ ®—ßÀ«—¥π§√√“™ ’¡“ µàÕ¡“√–¬–À≈—ßÊ ºâ“¡à«ß∑’Ë¢“¬∑—Ë«‰ª ¡—°‡ªìπºâ“µà«π‡ ’¬¡“° ºâ“¡à«ß∑’Ë „™â‡ªìπºâ“πÿàß¡’À≈“¬ ’ ‡™àπ ’πÈ”‡ß‘π‡¢â¡ À√◊Õ ’°√¡∑à“ Õ¬à“ß∑’Ë „™â‡ªìπ‡§√◊ÕË ß·∫∫¢â“√“™°“√„π°√¡∑à“´â“¬¢«“ ¡—¬√—™°“≈∑’Ë ı ‡√’¬° ’πÈ”‡ß‘π‡¢â¡«à“ ’°√¡∑à“ πÕ°®“° π’¬È ß— ¡’ Õ’ π◊Ë Ê ∑’¢Ë “â √“™°“√πÿßà ‡ªìπ ’ª√–®”°√¡ ‡™àπ ’°≈“‚À¡ ‡ªìπ ’≈Ÿ°À«â“ §◊Õ ’§√“¡‡®◊Õ·¥ß ’¡À“¥‡≈Á°À√◊Õ ’‡À≈Á° §◊Õ

ºâ“æ‘¡æå≈“¬‰∑¬ „™â‡ªìπºâ“∂ÿß ”‡√Á®¢ÕßºŸâÀ≠‘ß ‡¡◊ËÕª√–¡“≥ ı ªï ∑’Ëºà“π¡“ Printed design on pieces of fabric made into wearing robes for females, about 50 years ago.

ÒÛÙ

134

’¥”‡®◊Õ¢“« à«π¡“° «¡‡ ◊ÕÈ ¢“«À√◊Õ ’‡¥’¬«°—∫ºâ“πÿßà ºâ“¡à«ß ∑’Ë¢â“√“™°“√∑—Ë«‰ªπÿàß‰ª∑”ß“π§◊Õ ’πÈ”‡ß‘π·≈– ’°√¡∑à“∂◊Õ ‡ªì π ’ ÿ ¿ “æ ®÷ ß „™â ‡ ªì π ‡§√◊Ë Õ ß·∫∫¢â “ √“™°“√¡“®π∂÷ ß æ.».ÚÙ˜¯ °Á‡≈‘°„™â ‡ª≈’Ë¬π¡“πÿàß°“ß‡°ß “°≈·∫∫Ω√—Ëß ”À√—∫°“√·µàß°“¬¢Õß™π™—Èπ ŸßΩÉ“¬„ππ—Èπ ¬—ß§ßπÿàß ºâ“Àà¡ ‰∫°—πÕ¬Ÿà ·µà¡’‡ ◊ÈÕÕ¬à“ßΩ√—Ëß‡æ‘Ë¡‡¢â“¡“∫â“ß ‚¥¬¡“° ¡—°Àà¡ ‰∫∑—∫‡ ◊ÈÕ·¢π¬“« ™“¬¬“«‡æ’¬ß∫—Èπ‡Õ« Àà¡·æ√ ‰∫‡©’¬ß∫à“πÕ°‡ ◊ÈÕ ∫“ß∑’ «¡√Õß‡∑â“¥â«¬ „π√—™°“≈π’È ‚ª√¥‡°≈â“œ „Àâ‡≈‘°πÿàß®’∫‡ª≈’Ë¬π¡“‡ªìππÿàß‚®ß°√–‡∫π ®– πÿàß®’∫‰¥â°ÁµàÕ‡¡◊ËÕ·µàß‡µÁ¡¬»„À≠àÀà¡µ“¥¥â«¬‡∑à“π—Èπ °“√ ‡ª≈’Ë¬π·ª≈ß·∫∫·ºπ°“√·µàß°“¬„π√“™ ”π—°„π ¡—¬ √—™°“≈∑’Ë ı ¡’º≈°√–∑∫µàÕ°“√„™âºâ“™π‘¥µà“ßÊ ∑’Ë „™â‡ªìπ ‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡¡“·µà ‚∫√“≥ ‡¡◊ËÕ‡ª≈’Ë¬π°“√·µàß°“¬®“° °“√πÿàß·≈–Àà¡¡“‡ªìπ°“√ «¡‡ ◊ÈÕºâ“Õ¬à“ß™“«µ–«—πµ° ºâ“æ◊πÈ ∫â“ππ“π“™π‘¥∑’‡Ë §¬„™âπßÿà Àà¡®÷ß§àÕ¬Ê≈¥°“√„™â Õ¬≈ß ‡√◊ËÕ¬Ê ·µà¡’ ‘Ëßπà“ π„®‡°‘¥¢÷Èπ„π√—™°“≈π’È§◊Õ æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–‡®â“Õ¬ŸàÀ—«∑√ß πæ√–∑—¬°“√∑Õºâ“‰À¡‰∑¬¡“° ∂÷ß°—∫∑√ß ∂“ªπ“ °√¡™à“ß‰À¡ ¢÷È π „π √.».ÒÚÚ À√◊ Õ æ.».ÚÙÙˆ ‡æ◊ÕË àß‡ √‘¡æ—≤π“°“√∑Õºâ“‰À¡„πª√–‡∑»‰∑¬ ·µà°Á ‰¡àª√– ∫§«“¡ ”‡√Á®®π„π∑’Ë ÿ¥µâÕß‡≈‘°‰ª „π ¡— ¬ √— ™ °“≈π’È ‚ª√¥‡°≈â“œ „Àâ¡’°“√ª√—∫ª√ÿß·≈– ‡ª≈’Ë¬π·ª≈ß°“√·µàß°“¬¢Õßæ√–∫√¡«ß»“πÿ«ß»å ·≈– ‡ π“∫¥’ ¢â“√“™°“√„Àâ∑—π ¡—¬¡“°¢÷Èπ ‚ª√¥‡°≈â“œ „Àâ™à“ß µ—¥‡ ◊ÈÕ·∫∫Àπ÷Ëß∑’Ë∑√ß‰¥â¡“‡¡◊ËÕ§√—Èß‡ ¥Á®œ ‡¡◊Õß°—≈°—µµ“ ª√–‡∑»Õ‘π‡¥’¬ (æ.».ÚÙÒÙ ∂÷ß ÚÙÒı) ‡ªìπ‡ ◊ÈÕ§Õªî¥ ¡’ °√–¥ÿ¡µ≈Õ¥Õ° ‰¡àµâÕß «¡‡ ◊ÈÕ™—Èπ„π ‡¡◊ËÕ™à“ßµ—¥¡“∂«“¬ °Á‚ª√¥‡°≈â“œ „Àâ√“™‡≈¢“πÿ°“√§‘¥™◊ÕË ∂«“¬‚¥¬ π”§”«à“ √“™ ·≈– pattern ¡“√«¡°—π ·ª≈«à“ ‡ ◊ÈÕ·∫∫À≈«ß ·µà‡æ’È¬π ¡“‡ªìπ ”‡π’¬ß‰∑¬«à“ √“™ª–·µπ ¿“¬À≈—ßºŸâ™“¬π‘¬¡ «¡ ‡ ◊ÈÕ√“™ª–·µπ πÿàßºâ“¡à«ß «¡√Õß‡∑â“∫â“ß‰¡à «¡∫â“ß µ“¡∞“π–¢Õß·µà≈–§π à«π°“√·µàß°“¬¢Õß µ√’‡√‘¡Ë «¡‡ ◊ÕÈ ·≈–Àà¡ ‰∫ ‚¥¬‡√‘¡Ë ®“° µ√’™—Èπ Ÿß°àÕπ πÕ°‡Àπ◊Õ®“°°“√ «¡‡ ◊ÈÕÀà¡ ‰∫·≈â« „π√—™°“≈∑’Ë ı ‚ª√¥‡°≈â“œ „Àâ‡≈‘°πÿàßºâ“®’∫¡“‡ªìπºâ“‚®ß °√–‡∫π ¬°‡«âπß“πæ√–√“™æ‘∏’·µàß‡µÁ¡¬»®÷ßπÿàß®’∫Àà¡µ“¥ ¥—ßπ—Èπ ¿“æ∂à“¬„π√—™°“≈∑’Ë ı à«π„À≠à®–‡ÀÁπ«à“ µ√’™—Èπ Ÿß ¡—¬π—πÈ «¡‡ ◊ÕÈ ¢“«·¢π¬“« Àà¡ ‰∫πÿßà ‚®ß°√–‡∫π ∫“ß∑’ «¡∂ÿß‡∑â“¬“«µ≈Õ¥πàÕß «¡√Õß‡∑â“∫Ÿäµ √Ÿª·∫∫‡ ◊ÈÕ¢Õß µ√’ „π√—™°“≈∑’Ë ı ‰¥â·∫∫Õ¬à“ß¡“®“° µ–«—πµ° ∑’Ëπ‘¬¡°—π¡“°§◊Õ ‡ ◊ÈÕ·¢πæÕß À√◊Õ∑’Ë‡√’¬°°—π«à“ ·¢πÀ¡Ÿ · Œ¡ πÕ°®“°‡ ◊È Õ ·≈â « æ«°‡§√◊Ë Õ ßª√–¥— ∫ ∂π‘¡æ‘¡æ“¿√≥å·∫∫µà“ßÊ ®“°¬ÿ‚√ª°Á¡’ºŸâ —Ëß‡¢â“¡“¢“¬ °—π∫â“ß·≈â« 135

°“√·µàß°“¬¢Õß‡¥Á°ºŸâÀ≠‘ß ¡—¬√—µπ‚° ‘π∑√å The traditional costume of a Rattanakosin girl from a well-to-do family.

„π ¡—¬æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–¡ß°ÿÆ‡°≈â“‡®â“Õ¬ŸàÀ—« √—™°“≈ ∑’Ë ˆ (æ.».ÚÙıÛ ∂÷ß ÚÙˆ¯) ‡ªìπ¬ÿ§∑’ Ë µ√’‰∑¬‡ª≈’¬Ë π·ª≈ß °“√·µàß°“¬‰ª¡“° ‡√’¬°«à“¬ÿ§ πÿßà ´‘πË øíπ¢“« ‡°≈â“º¡¡«¬ ´÷ßË ∂◊Õ‡ªìπæ√–√“™π‘¬¡„π ¡—¬π—πÈ °“√πÿßà ‚®ß°√–‡∫π Àà¡ ‰∫ ≈¥πâÕ¬≈ß‰ª æ√âÕ¡°—ππ—Èπ°Á¡’°“√™—°™«π„Àâ µ√’ ‰∑¬πÿàß´‘Ëπ ·∑π°√–‚ª√ß∑’Ë¥Ÿ‡ªìπΩ√—Ëß¡“°‰ª «¡‡ ◊ÈÕÀ≈«¡Ê ·¢π —Èπ ∫â“ß¬“«∫â“ß ‚¥¬‡©æ“–‡ ◊ÈÕ‰¡à¡’·¢π ‰¥â°≈“¬‡ªìπ¢Õß§Ÿà°—∫ ´‘Ëπ„π ¡—¬√—™°“≈µàÕ¡“ à«π°“√‡°≈â“º¡¡«¬π—Èπ ‡ªìπ§«“¡π‘¬¡∑’ËÕ“®¡“®“° µ–«—πµ° §◊Õ‰¡àµ—¥ —Èπ·∫∫∑√ß¥Õ°°√–∑ÿà¡À√◊Õ‰«â®ÕπÕ¬à“ß ‚∫√“≥ ·µà‡°≈â“¡«¬À√◊Õ¥—¥≈ÕπÕ¬à“ßΩ√—Ëß ”À√—∫øíπ¢“« π—Èπ‡ªìπ§à“π‘¬¡„À¡àµ“¡æ√–√“™π‘¬¡¢Õß√—™°“≈∑’Ë ˆ ™à«¬ „Àâ§π‰∑¬≈¥°“√°‘πÀ¡“°‰ª‰¥â∫â“ß ®πæ.». ÚÙ¯Ú ¡—¬ ®Õ¡æ≈ ª. æ‘∫Ÿ≈ ß§√“¡ (·ª≈° æ‘∫Ÿ≈ ß§√“¡) ®÷ßÀâ“¡ §π‰∑¬°‘πÀ¡“° ‡æ√“–‡ÀÁπ«à“≈â“ ¡—¬ °“√·µàß°“¬·∫∫µ–«—πµ°‰¥â√∫— §«“¡ π„®®“°™π™—πÈ Ÿß ·≈–™“«‡¡◊ÕßÀ≈«ß‡ªìπ à«π„À≠à ™“«™π∫∑§ß·µàß°“¬ßà“¬Ê „Àâ Õ¥§≈âÕß°—∫°“√ª√–°Õ∫Õ“™’æ ·≈–¢π∫ª√–‡æ≥’¢Õß µπ¡“°°«à“∑’Ë®–·µàß‡æ◊ËÕ§«“¡ «¬ß“¡µ“¡ ¡—¬π‘¬¡Õ¬à“ß µ√’™“«°√ÿß «‘«—≤π“°“√‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡„π«‘∂’‰∑¬

ÒÛı

„π ¡—¬æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–ª°‡°≈â“‡®â“Õ¬ŸÀà «— √—™°“≈∑’Ë ˜ (æ.».ÚÙˆ¯ ∂÷ß ÚÙ˜˜) °“√·µàß°“¬¢Õß§π‰∑¬µà“ß®“° ¡—¬√—™°“≈∑’Ë ˆ ‡©æ“–À≈—ß‡ª≈’Ë¬π·ª≈ß°“√ª°§√Õß®“° √–∫Õ∫ ¡∫Ÿ√≥“≠“ ‘∑∏‘√“™¬å¡“‡ªìπ√–∫Õ∫ª√–™“∏‘ª ‰µ¬ æ.». ÚÙ˜ı §≥–√“…Æ√å∑√’Ë «à ¡°—π‡ª≈’¬Ë π·ª≈ß°“√ª°§√Õß ‡ÀÁπ«à“§«√„Àâ¢â“√“™°“√·µàßµ—«·∫∫ “°≈π‘¬¡ ®÷ßÕÕ° æ√–√“™∫—≠≠—µ°‘ “√·µàß°“¬¢Õß¢â“√“™°“√æ≈‡√◊Õπ Àâ“¡πÿßà ºâ“¡à«ß‚¥¬‡¥Á¥¢“¥ ·≈–°”Àπ¥‡§√◊ËÕß·∫∫¢Õß¢â“√“™°“√ æ≈‡√◊Õπ¢÷Èπ„À¡à ”À√—∫ª√–™“™π∑—Ë«‰ª°Á ‰¡à ‰¥â∫—ß§—∫„Àâ‡≈‘° πÿàßºâ“¡à«ß‡ ’¬∑’‡¥’¬« ”À√—∫ºŸâÀ≠‘ß¬—ß§ß¡’∑—Èßπÿàßºâ“∂ÿß∫â“ß °√–‚ª√ß∫â“ßµ“¡Õ—∏¬“»—¬ „π√—™°“≈π’Èπ‘¬¡‡ ◊ÈÕ‰¡à¡’·¢π „πÀ¡ŸàºŸâÀ≠‘ß ∂◊Õ‡ªìπ‡ ◊ÈÕπ” ¡—¬ ¡—¬æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–‡®â“Õ¬ŸÀà «— Õ“π—π∑¡À‘¥≈ √—™°“≈ ∑’Ë ¯ (æ.».ÚÙ˜˜ ∂÷ ß ÚÙ¯˘) ‡ªì π ™à « ß‡«≈“¢Õß°“√ ‡ª≈’¬Ë π·ª≈ß∑“ß«—≤π∏√√¡∑’ Ë ”§—≠Õ’°™à«ßÀπ÷ßË ‡¡◊ÕË ®Õ¡æ≈ ª. æ‘∫Ÿ≈ ß§√“¡ ‡ªìππ“¬°√—∞¡πµ√’ „πªïæ.».ÚÙ¯Ò ‰¥â ·∂≈ßµàÕª√–™“™π«à“®–π”ª√–‡∑»‰ª Ÿ§à «“¡‡ªìπÕ“√¬ª√–‡∑» ®”‡ªìπµâÕßªØ‘√ªŸ «—≤π∏√√¡Õ¬à“ß®√‘ß®—ß ®÷ßÕÕ°ª√–°“»‡ªìπ √—∞π‘¬¡ „π‡√◊ËÕßµà“ßÊ Õ¬à“ßµàÕ‡π◊ËÕß ‡™àπ ª√–°“»√—∞π‘¬¡ ©∫—∫∑’Ë Ò ≈ß«—π∑’Ë Òı ¡°√“§¡ æ.».ÚÙ¯Ù ç‡√◊ËÕß°“√ ·µàß°“¬¢Õßª√–™“™π™“«‰∑¬é ∑’æË ¬“¬“¡„Àâ§π‰∑¬·µàß°“¬ Õ¬à“ß‡ªìπ√–‡∫’¬∫„π‚Õ°“ µà“ßÊ ‰¥â·°à ‡§√◊ËÕß·µàß°“¬ ∏√√¡¥“∑’Ë „™â „π™ÿ¡™πÀ√◊Õ “∏“√≥– ‡§√◊ËÕß·µàß°“¬∑”ß“π §◊Õ‡§√◊ËÕß·µàß°“¬¢≥–∑”ß“πª√–°Õ∫Õ“™’æµà“ßÊ ·≈–°“√ ·µàß°“¬µ“¡°“≈‡∑»–∑’‡Ë À¡“– ¡ ∑’ Ë ”§—≠§◊Õ°“√™—°™«π·°¡ ∫—ß§—∫„Àâ∑ÿ°§π «¡À¡«° ‚¥¬™—°™«π„ÀâºŸâÀ≠‘ß «¡À¡«° ç...‡æ◊ËÕ àß‡ √‘¡°“√ √â“ß™“µ‘¢Õß∑à“π„πÀπâ“∑’Ë µ√’‰∑¬„Àâ ‡¥àπ¬‘ßË ¢÷πÈ . .é ¿“¬À≈—ß®÷ß¡’º‡Ÿâ √’¬°¬ÿ§®Õ¡æ≈ ª. æ‘∫≈Ÿ ß§√“¡ «à“ ¬ÿ§¡“≈“π”‰∑¬‰ª Ÿà¡À“Õ”π“® °“√·µàß°“¬‚¥¬∑—«Ë ‰ª¢ÕßÀ≠‘ß™“¬ ¡—¬π—πÈ §◊Õ ºŸ™â “¬ «¡ °“ß‡°ß¢“¬“« «¡‡ ◊ÈÕ¡’·¢π §Õªî¥ À√◊Õ§Õ‡ªî¥ À“°‡ªìπ ™π∫∑À√◊ÕπÕ°‡¢µ‡∑»∫“≈ «¡‡ ◊ÈÕ∑√ß°√–∫Õ°·∫∫‰∑¬ ·¢π¬“« §Õµ—Èß °≈—¥°√–¥ÿ¡ ı ‡¡Á¥ ¡’°√–‡ªÜ“ à«πºŸâÀ≠‘ß πÿàßºâ“∂ÿßÀ√◊Õ°√–‚ª√ß ÕÕ°πÕ°‡¢µµâÕß «¡‡ ◊ÈÕ®–‡ªìπ ·∫∫„¥°Á ‰ ¥â ·µàµâÕß§≈ÿ¡‰À≈à µâÕß «¡√Õß‡∑â“ ·≈– «¡ À¡«°∑ÿ°§π °“√·µàß°“¬·∫∫√—∞π‘¬¡ √â“ß§«“¡Õ÷¥Õ—¥„Àâ™“«∫â“π ·≈– “¡—≠™π∑—Ë«‰ª‰¡àπâÕ¬ ‡©æ“–ºŸâÀ≠‘ß∑’Ë‡§¬·µàπÿàß‚®ß °√–‡∫π ‡¡◊ÕË ∂Ÿ°™—°™«π„Àâπßÿà ºâ“∂ÿß ®÷ß¥Ÿ¢¥— ‡¢‘π·≈–‰¡à –¥«° °“√·µàß°“¬µ“¡√—∞π‘¬¡∑’Ë ¡∫Ÿ√≥å®–µâÕß «¡À¡«° «¡ ∂ÿß‡∑â“ √Õß‡∑â“¥â«¬ ‡¡◊ËÕæâπ¬ÿ§®Õ¡æ≈ ª. æ‘∫Ÿ≈ ß§√“¡ °“√ «¡À¡«°°Á §àÕ¬Ê À“¬‰ª ™“«‰√à™“«π“°Á°≈—∫‰ª «¡ßÕ∫¥—ß‡¥‘¡ ·µà ß‘Ë ∑’Ë

∫π °“√·µàß°“¬ µ“¡ª√–‡æ≥’π¬‘ ¡ ¢Õß∑âÕß∂‘πË above Local dressing styles.

≈à“ß ºŸâÀ≠‘ß™π∫∑ §“¥ºâ“·∂∫ πÿàß‚®ß°√–‡∫π below An upcountry female with a piece of cloth to cover her chest, wearing “pha chong kraben.”

ÒÛˆ

136

¬—ß§ßÕ¬Ÿà§◊Õ°“√·µàß°“¬·∫∫ “°≈À√◊Õ·∫∫Ω√—Ëß‰¥â√—∫§«“¡ π‘¬¡·æ√àÀ≈“¬¡“°¢÷Èπ °“√πÿàßºâ“¡à«ß °“ß‡°ß®’π ºâ“‚®ß °√–‡∫π·≈–ºâ“∂ÿß§àÕ¬Ê ≈¥≈ß‰ª‡√◊ÕË ¬Ê ®π∂÷ß ¡—¬æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–‡®â“Õ¬ŸàÀ—«¿Ÿ¡‘æ≈Õ¥ÿ≈¬‡¥™ √—™°“≈ªí®®ÿ∫—π °“√ ·µàß°“¬¢Õß§π‰∑¬°Á‡ªìπ·∫∫ “°≈Õ¬à“ß∑’ªË √“°ØÕ¬Ÿ∑à °ÿ «—ππ’È ªï æ.». ÚıÛ ‡¡◊ÕË ¡‡¥Á®æ√–π“ß‡®â“ ‘√°‘ µ‘ œ‘Ï æ√–∫√¡ √“™‘π’π“∂ ‚¥¬‡ ¥Á®æ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–‡®â“Õ¬ŸàÀ—«‰ª‡¬◊Õπ À√—∞Õ‡¡√‘°“ ·≈–ª√–‡∑»µà“ßÊ „π¬ÿ‚√ª‡ªìπ‡«≈“ ˆ ‡¥◊Õπ ∑√ß¡’æ√–√“™ª√– ß§å „Àâ¡™’ ¥ÿ ª√–®”™“µ‘‡æ◊ÕË · ¥ß‡Õ°≈—°…≥å ¢Õß§π‰∑¬ ®÷ß∑√ß√à«¡°—∫ºŸâ¡’§«“¡√Ÿâ∑“ßª√–«—µ‘»“ µ√å·≈– °“√µ—¥‡¬Á∫‡ ◊ÈÕºâ“ ÕÕ°·∫∫™ÿ¥ª√–®”™“µ‘ ”À√—∫ µ√’ ‰∑¬ ¢÷πÈ µàÕ¡“‡√’¬°«à“ ™ÿ¥‰∑¬æ√–√“™π‘¬¡ ª√–°Õ∫¥â«¬™ÿ¥‰∑¬ ·∫∫µà“ßÊ ¯ ™ÿ¥¥—ßπ’È Ò. ‰∑¬‡√◊Õπµâπ „™â „πß“π∑’Ë ‰¡à‡ªìπæ‘∏’ ·≈–µâÕß°“√§«“¡ ∫“¬ ‡™àπ ‰ª‡∑’Ë¬« Ú. ‰∑¬®‘µ√≈¥“ „™â „πß“πæ‘∏’°≈“ß«—π „™â√—∫ª√–¡ÿ¢ µà“ßª√–‡∑»‡ªìπ∑“ß°“√ À√◊Õß“π «π π“¡ Û. ‰∑¬Õ¡√‘π∑√å ”À√—∫ß“π‡≈’È¬ß√—∫√ÕßµÕπÀ—«§Ë” Õπÿ‚≈¡‰¡à§“¥‡¢Á¡¢—¥‰¥â Ù. ‰∑¬∫√¡æ‘¡“π „™â „πæ‘∏’µÕπ§Ë” §“¥‡¢Á¡¢—¥ ı. ‰∑¬®—°√’ §◊Õ™ÿ¥‰∑¬Àà¡ ‰∫ ˆ. ‰∑¬¥ÿ ‘µ ”À√—∫ß“πæ‘∏’µÕπ§Ë” ®—¥„Àâ –¥«° ”À√—∫ «¡ “¬ –æ“¬ ˜. ‰∑¬®—°√æ√√¥‘Ï ·∫∫‰∑¬·∑â ¯. ‰∑¬»‘«“≈—¬ ‡À¡“– ”À√—∫‡¡◊ËÕÕ“°“»‡¬Áπ πÕ°®“°π—Èπ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–∫√¡√“™‘π’π“∂ ¬—ß∑√ßøóôπøŸ °“√∑Õºâ“æ◊Èπ∫â“π ·≈–∑√ßπ”ºâ“æ◊Èπ∫â“π¡“µ—¥‡¬Á∫‡ªìπ ©≈Õßæ√–Õß§å®π‰¥â√—∫§«“¡π‘¬¡‡ªìπÕ¬à“ß¡“°„πªí®®ÿ∫—π πÕ°®“°π’È¬—ß∑√ß°àÕµ—Èß¡Ÿ≈π‘∏‘ àß‡ √‘¡»‘≈ª“™’æ „π ¡‡¥Á® æ√–π“ß‡®â“ æ√–∫√¡√“™‘π’π“∂ ‡æ◊ËÕ àß‡ √‘¡ øóôπøŸ·≈– Õπÿ√—°…å»‘≈ªÀ—µ∂°√√¡æ◊Èπ∫â“π¢Õß‰∑¬ ”À√—∫°“√·µàß°“¬¢Õß∫ÿ√…ÿ æ≈‡Õ° ‡ª√¡ µ‘≥ Ÿ≈“ππ∑å √—∞¡πµ√’«“à °“√°√–∑√«ß°≈“‚À¡ „π√—∞∫“≈æ≈‡Õ°‡°√’¬ß»—°¥‘Ï ™¡–π—π∑πå ‰¥â√—∫æ√–√“™∑“π©≈Õßæ√–Õß§å∑’Ëæ√–∫“∑ ¡‡¥Á®æ√–‡®â“Õ¬ŸàÀ—«∑√ß„™âª√–®”®“° ¡‡¥Á®æ√–π“ß‡®â“ ‘√‘°‘µ‘Ïœ æ√–∫√¡√“™‘π’π“∂ æ√âÕ¡∑—Èßæ√–√“™∑“π·∫∫ ‡ ◊ÈÕ¡“„Àâ¥â«¬ æ≈‡Õ°‡ª√¡œ ®÷ßπ”¡“µ—¥„ à‡ªìπ§π·√° ‚¥¬„ à ‰ª‡ªìπª√–∏“π‡ªî¥ß“π©≈Õß§√∫√Õ∫ ˆ ªï«ß‡«’¬π ÚÚ °√°Æ“§¡ ‡¡◊ÕË «—π∑’Ë ÚÚ °√°Æ“§¡ æ.». ÚıÚÚ ·≈–„π «—πæÿ∏∑’Ë Úı ‡¥◊Õπ‡¥’¬«°—π ‰¥â «¡™ÿ¥¥—ß°≈à“« ‰ª¬—ß ¿“ ºŸâ·∑π√“…Æ√ ¡“™‘° ¿“ºŸâ·∑π√“…Æ√·≈– ◊ËÕ¡«≈™πµà“ß „Àâ§«“¡ π„®°—∫‡ ◊ÈÕ·∫∫„À¡à‡ªìπÕ¬à“ß¡“° ¿“¬À≈—ß‡√’¬° ‡ ◊ÈÕ·∫∫π’È«à“ ™ÿ¥æ√–√“™∑“π À√◊Õ ‡ ◊ÈÕæ√–√“™∑“π 137

‡ ◊ÈÕæ√–√“™∑“π¡’ Û ·∫∫ §◊Õ ·∫∫·¢π —Èπ ·∫∫·¢π ¬“«§“¥ºâ“ ·≈– ·∫∫·¢π¬“«‰¡à§“¥ºâ“ ·∫∫·¢π¬“«§“¥ ºâ“‡ªìπ·∫∫∑’Ë „™â „πß“πæ‘∏’°“√ ≈—°…≥–‡¥àπ¢Õß‡ ◊ÈÕ™π‘¥π’È §◊Õ ‡ªìπ‡ ◊ÈÕ§Õµ—Èß ¡’ “∫ºà“Õ° °√–¥ÿ¡ ı ‡¡Á¥ π‘¬¡¢≈‘∫ ¢Õ∫ ’µ“à ßÊ Ú˜ ‡ ◊ÕÈ æ√–√“™∑“π à«π¡“°„ à°∫— °“ß‡°ß¢“¬“« µà“ß ’°—∫‡ ◊ÈÕ À√◊Õ ’ „°≈â‡§’¬ß°—π µàÕ¡“π‘¬¡ «¡‡ ◊ÈÕ æ√–√“™∑“π ’¢“«°—∫°“ß·°ß ’¥” À√◊Õ ’¥”∑—ßÈ ™ÿ¥‰ª„πæ‘∏»’ æ ‡æ√“–‰¡à√âÕπ‡À¡◊Õπ™ÿ¥ “°≈ ™ÿ¥æ√–√“™∑“π∂◊Õ‡ªìπ™ÿ¥ ÿ¿“æ∑’Ë „ à ‰ªß“πæ‘∏’µà“ßÊ ‰¥â‡™àπ‡¥’¬«°—∫™ÿ¥ “°≈ Õ¬à“ß‰√°Áµ“¡ °“√·µàß°“¬¢Õß™“¬‰∑¬‚¥¬∑—Ë«‰ª¡—° ‡ªìπ·∫∫‡√’¬∫Ê §◊Õ πÿàß°“ß‡°ß¢“ —ÈπÀ√◊Õ¢“¬“« «¡‡ ◊ÈÕ ‡™‘Èµ À√◊Õ‡ ◊ÈÕŒ“«“¬ «¡√Õß‡∑â“ ∑—Èßπ’È ¢÷ÈπÕ¬Ÿà°—∫°“≈‡∑»– ”À√—∫™“«∫â“π„π™π∫∑¬—ß·µàß°“¬µ“¡§«“¡π‘¬¡¢Õß ∑âÕß∂‘ËπÕ¬Ÿà∫â“ß ‡™àπ ™“«∫â“π¿“§‡Àπ◊Õπ‘¬¡„ à™ÿ¥À¡âÕÀâÕ¡ ™“«ª√–¡ßπ‘ ¬ ¡ «¡°“ß‡°ß¢“°ä « ¬À√◊ Õ °“ß‡°ßµ— ß ‡° ™“«¡ÿ ≈‘¡„π¿“§„µâπ‘¬¡πÿàß‚ √àß µà“ß®“°™“«°√ÿß∑’Ëπ‘¬¡ ·µàß°“¬µ“¡ ¡—¬π‘¬¡¢Õß™“«µ–«—πµ° ®–‡ÀÁπ«à“‡§√◊ÕË ßπÿßà Àà¡‡ªìπªí®®—¬Àπ÷ßË „πªí®®—¬ ’¢Ë Õß¡πÿ…¬å ∑’Ë¡’¡“µ—Èß·µà ¡—¬°àÕπª√–«—µ‘»“ µ√å‡æ◊ËÕ„™âª°ªî¥√à“ß°“¬ °—π§«“¡√âÕπ·≈–§«“¡Àπ“«‡¬Áπ ´÷Ëßæ—≤π“¡“‡ªìπ≈”¥—∫ ®π‡ª≈’Ë ¬ π®“°‡§√◊Ë Õ ßπÿà ß Àà ¡ ¡“‡ªì π ‡§√◊Ë Õ ß·µà ß °“¬∑’Ë „ ™â ª°ªî¥√à“ß°“¬·≈–·µàß°“¬„Àâ «¬ß“¡ ®π∂÷ß„™â‡ªìπ‡§√◊ËÕß · ¥ß ∂“π¿“æ∑“ß —ß§¡‰ª¥â«¬

«‘«—≤π“°“√‡§√◊ËÕßπÿàßÀà¡„π«‘∂’‰∑¬

ÒÛ˜

Thai Wisdom: Thai Ways of Life

Wooden shuttles for fabric weaving.

Chapter Two

Traditional Thai Clothing ÒÛ¯

138

Clothing normally serves as protection from severe heat or cold. In ancient times, human beings must have clothed themselves with any natural materials available. Later, they must have made simple woven wear from certain fibrous plants such as flax, jute, or pineapple leaves, before knowing how to acquire threads and how to weave fabrics from cotton, wool, or silk.

Since the Sukhothai Period, the Golden Age of art, Thai artisans had invented many new designs from the surrounding natural objects, and from some mythical characters after their imagination, as reflected in unearthed pottery fragments. There were three methods to imprint these designs on to the fabrics: by embroidering, weaving, and painting. However, certain designs were reserved for nobility or dignitaries. Therefore, fabric designs were not simply artistic expressions but they also denoted subtle stratification in the fabric of Thai society.

After having learned to acquire silk thread and to make silk cloth, humans must have learned coloring with natural dyes from readily available plants such as the indigo dye from the indigo plant, the black dye from ebony fruits (Diospyros mollis), yellow from jackfruit wood or cumin, red from Sappan wood (Caesalpinia sappan), green from leaves of wild olive (Vitex pinnata, LABIATAE), light green from leaves of cork wood trees, and khaki from teak leaves.

Local Fabrics and Attire The Siamese formerly dressed very simply, with “a piece to wear and another piece to wrap” themselves-as a Thai saying goes. Men usually covered the lower part of their body from the waist down. Women had something to wear and to wrap the upper part of the body. Most of their clothes were home spun. Wealthy people may have imported fabrics from abroad, but they were careful not to “emulate the lords and masters,” by wearing certain kinds of valuable and rare clothes reserved for nobility. As a matter of fact, in the late Ayutthaya Period, there was a decree to forbid commoners to use certain kinds of fabric and clothing reserved for dignitaries. The decree was repealed in the Fifth Reign (1868-1910), when western attire was adopted and widely used in the court as well as among commoners.

It has been hypothesized that humans must have developed weaving techniques from knitting. Weaving gradually became more sophisticated with the invention of percussion loom about 1,800 years ago. The tool had made weaving much faster. In Europe, this had led to a breakthrough in human history, the Industrial Revolution, when machines were invented to replace human hands in cotton mills in the mid-19th Century CE. In Thailand, however, back-strap looms or handlooms are still in used for certain kinds of materials weaving, especially in some rural villages around the country.

Fabric Designs: Art Woven with Thai Wisdom.

Local fabrics and dresses that commoners used in their daily life, however, reflected both ancestral wisdom and local belief systems. They can be regionally divided into four areas.

Rollers made from terra cotta unearthed at Ban Chiang indicate the printing (or rolling) of patterns on fabrics in solid colors. Certain archeological fragments discovered support the idea that early fabric designs may have been similar to those on pottery, such as spiral, saw tooth, coiled rope, or wave designs. After human communities had developed and become more complex, certain patterns for example, naga, serpent, hemsa, or peacock designs must have been invented to signify group identities.

139

Traditional Thai Clothing

ÒÛ˘

Northern-Style Fabrics The northern highlands comprise of various ethnic groups with their own traditional costume. The Thai Yuan, or Khon Mueang, in the plains and in the city areas, for example, have their own dressing style much different from that of the hill tribes. In the old days, male Thai Yuan descendants wore a piece of thigh-length wrap, in order to show off elaborate tattoo designs on their body. They did not cover the upper part of the body, but they wore a long decorative piece of cloth across the shoulders. The aristocrats, however, wore a shirt with a long piece of decorative cloth tied around their waist. Women wore an ankle-length robe with horizontal stripes but no blouse. They covered the upper part of the body with a wrap and did their hair in a high chignon decorated with a hairpin or flowers. This dressing style has been depicted in several murals in temples around Chiang Mai. Presently, local Lanna women wear long robes, but they also wear blouses instead of chest wraps, the practice observed since the Fifth Reign. The blouses are usually made from off-white cotton in a T-shirt pattern with a buttoned slit along the front. Men wear indigo pants and shirts made from specially dyed fabric called “mohom.” In addition, there are still many kinds of homespun fabric made in hill tribe villages. They also make several kinds of fabric items such as northern-style decorative flags, blankets, and other household items.

“Nam lai” fabric design.

ÒÙ

140

Central-Style Fabrics Many ethnic people in the Central Plains were immigrants from Laos. Some were from the northern city of Chiang Saen. They have retained their ethnic culture in fabric making and costume. Most of them make cotton robes for home use, and silk robes for temple visits or for auspicious occasions. Chiang Saen descendants in Uttaradit, Saraburi, and Ratchaburi, for example, still preserve their northern cultural heritage in dressing style. They still make intricate embroidered borders for robes called “tinjok.” The Thai Song Dam in Khao Yoi, Phetchaburi, for instance, still weave and wear their traditional costume made from cotton fabric: a black or dark blue robe with red stripes, and a blouse of the same color. If they are about to go to the temple, a decorative piece of cloth will be placed on their shoulders. Many other ethnic groups maintain their traditional costume in the similar way. The Central style of clothing varied from one ethnic culture to another. In general, however, they still dressed conservatively. The changes came in the reign of Rama V when imported western outfits and dressing style soon replaced the Siamese traditional attire in the Central Region.

A full-size robe with “tinjok” border.

141

Traditional Thai Clothing

ÒÙÒ

Silk threads in “matmi” design.

Northeastern-Style Fabrics The majority of the northeastern Thai people are Lao descendants. There are also Cambodian descendants scattered in Surin and Buri Ram. These ethnic groups have different cultural heritage, which is highly visible in their dialect, traditional costume, and belief systems. Most of them, however, share basic cultural beliefs and practices common among people in agrarian communities. They spend 7-9 months from the rain to the cold seasons on planting and harvesting. The 3-5 months of summer are for making preparations for the planting season and repairing tools for everyday use, as well as for some entertainment and religious festivals. A traditional saying “After the rice planting season, women weave fabric and men strike iron,” clearly summarizes local activities and practices. Northeastern farmers grow cotton and mulberry trees (for silk worms) simultaneously with rice planting. After the rice harvest, the cotton will also be ready for the harvest. Villagers will then begin the fabric production process. They weave both cotton and silk fabrics for different occasions. Many localities have their own

ÒÙÚ

142

signature fabric. For example, the hole and prom fabrics are from the Lower Northeastern areas of Surin, Buri Ram, and Si Sa Ket. The khit designs are especially popular among the Lao descendants in Maha Sarakham, Khon Kaen, Udon Thani, and Chaiyaphum. Northeastern fabric is different from that of the northern people. The stripes and designs run vertically along the length of the wearer. A robe usually has only one seam, which is carefully hidden and invisible under the front fold of the robe. The northern fabric, in contrast, runs the stripes and the patterns horizontally across the wearer’s body. A northern robe often has two seams. When worn, one will be visible in front and the other at the back of the wearer. In addition to fabrics for clothing, people also make other items to meet the market demand, such as bags, handbags, tablecloths, doilies, napkins, scarves, shawls, and bed spreads. Silk from the Northeast is very beautiful and second to none. HM Queen Sirikit has recently encouraged people to continue their weaving art. She has graciously included their weaving art to the SUPPORT Handicraft Center’s programs under her royal patronage.

Southern-Style Fabrics The neighboring Malay culture and the imported Chinese, Indian, and Arabic cultures have greatly influenced southern art and culture. However, many localities have developed their own signature fabrics, such as the intricately woven design pha yok from Nakhon Si Thammarat; pha phumriang from Amphoe Chaiya, Surat Thani; pha Ban Na Muen Si from Trang; and pha ko yo from Ko Yo, Songkhla. All these fabrics are made into garments and other items for special occasions, such as a decorative piece of cloth used in a wedding ceremony, a funeral, and a prayer.

Ko Yo fabric from Songkhla.

143

Traditional Thai Clothing

ÒÙÛ

A piece of “phan chang” fabric from Ban Na Muen Si, Trang.

The Development of Rattanakosin Costume In traditional Thai society, people were roughly categorized into the ruler class (royalty, nobility, and courtiers) and the ruled (commoners and peasants). Dress was a means to distinguish people of different social status. Commoners were not to “over-dress higher than their station in life.” Different kinds of fabric were used to reward courtiers and nobility, which also denoted their “station in life” as well as in the court. An early Rattanakosin law clearly defined particular kinds of costume for dignitaries and members of the royal household.

A dressing style of Thai men in the early Rattanakosin Period.

In the early Rattanakosin Period, from the First Reign (1782-1809) to the Third Reign (1824-1851), the Court still adopted and observed Ayutthaya practices. Silk and golden threads were used in the weaving of fabric for the ruler class, both men and women. Women wore long robes and wrapped the upper part of their body with a piece of cloth. Men, on the contrary, still covered only the lower part of themselves, except for the occasion when they were to be in audience with the king. King Rama III, however, did not like wearing shirts himself. Courtiers during his time, thus, followed the royal preference.

Above right A dressing style of Thai women early in the Fifth Reign (1868-1910) of the Rattanakosin Period.

ÒÙÙ

144

The changes came with the enthronement of Rama IV (1851-1868). The king intended to develop the country to be “equal” to the western colonizing powers. He had a decree that all courtiers in audience had to wear a shirt to cover themselves. The king himself began wearing western clothes. Soon, the idea spread among courtiers and later to some commoners outside the palace. However, the general local dressing style remained unchanged.

citizens’ duty to follow the state preference. A decree was announced on 15 January 1941, stating the dress code for all occasions. He also stressed the western idea of wearing hats. The slogan for the period was “Hats will lead us to being a super power.” After his government, people discarded the hats and the socks, and went back to the former dressing style they preferred. However, more ladies were wearing long robes and keeping their teeth white. Men were wearing western style clothes. The trend continued into the beginning of the present reign (Rama IX, 1946-present).

Greater changes to modernity and westernized dressing style came in the Fifth Reign. After his royal visit to Calcutta in India (1871-1872), the king designed a shirt for courtiers to wear to the palace, called “raj pattern,” which was similar to the Indian-style shirt. Court ladies led the fashion by wearing a long-sleeved blouse under the sabai (long scarf worn across the chest and over one shoulder). Long socks and shoes were also introduced.

Another breakthrough concerning ladies’ wear took place in 1960. HM Queen Sirikit was to accompany HM the King on their state visit to European countries and the USA for six months. She had commissioned knowledgeable personalities to design a set of traditional Thai costume from available historical and archeological evidence. The set comprises 8 patterns, ranging from the least formal dress called Thai Ruean Ton, to that for the most formal occasion and for full decorations called Thai Dusit, as well as the traditional dress called Thai Chakrapat, and the dress for the cold weather called Thai Sivalai.

The long silk robe, with pleated ridge along the middle of the front piece, was replaced by a shorter pha chong kraben. The former attire of long silk robe and silk scarf was reserved for more formal occasions. More European garments and accessories were imported. In the reign of Rama VI (1910-1925), the fashion was changed again. It was the period of “long robe, white teeth, and a low chignon,” which were believed to be “the court preference” for women. The robe was either ankle length or shorter, worn under a sleeveless blouse. The chignon was western in style. The “white teeth” was the king’s attempt to stop traditional betel nut chewing, for hygienic reason. The practice was entirely forbidden during the dictatorial government of Field Marshal Plaek Pibulsonggram in 1939, who deemed the practice “backward” and uncivilized.

Another change for men costume came in 1979, when General Prem Tinsulanonda began to promote a kind of men’s shirt design, which was a gift from HM the King. There are three patterns: the long-sleeved with a scarf, the long-sleeved without a scarf, and the short-sleeved. The king has used these patterns regularly in many formal occasions to avoid wearing the western-style suit-and-tie, which is not at all suitable for a hot climate as in Thailand. Clothing is one of the four basic needs for humans. It has developed from providing bodily protection to becoming the attire to denote social status in the more complicated spin of human society.

However, it should be noted that western fashion was mainly for people in the capital city and the upper class. Commoners and rural people still maintained the simple and practical dressing style after their ethnic traditions and beliefs. In the Seven Reign (Rama VII, 1925-1934), there were not many changes from the last reign. After the 1932 political revolution from absolute monarchy to parliamentary democracy, however, the ruling class at the time wanted government officials to adopt western-style clothing. A dress code bill was passed specifically for government officials. The Cultural Revolution, nevertheless, actually took place in the next reign (Rama VIII, 1934-1946) under the administration of Field Marshal Plaek Pibulsonggram. He deemed it the

145

Traditional Thai Clothing

ÒÙı