Greater Zhongshan Travellers’ Handbook
Genetic code of Zhongshan District 4 The living aesthetics theater of metropolitan Taipei 6 Cultural aesthetics district of Greater Zhongshan 7
Contents
Yuanshan 8 MRT. Tamsui Line
Yuanshan archeological site and Yuanshan culture 10 Chu
Yuanshan scenic areas 12 ng-S
Yuanshan
Yuanshan
han
Free
Ch engd e Rd ., Sec.
Minzu
3
Chingguang Market Minquan West Road
Zhongshan Elementary School
Shuanglian
g St
Linsen Park
Lins e
Shuanglian Morning Market and Wenchang Temple 29 The Aesthetics of Boutique Consumerism on the Eastern Region of Greater ZhongShan 32 The origins of five-star hotels in Taipei
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Aesthetics of boutique consumerism 34 Sanbanqiao Cemetery 36
Nanxi commercial district and cultural creative alleyways 38 Creative Journey 40
Nanjing E. Rd.
Tour of taste 44 Art Tour 49
. Rd
nN
街
MRT Taipei Main Station
天津
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ay
e lvd
H ig h w
林森北路
gd c.1 Taipei Main Station
Minquan E. Rd
E. Rd
The Aestheties of Boutique Consumerism
Zho n g s han N. R d
en Se
ic B
MRT Xinzhuang Line
X in S h eng
Chifen
Ch Rd ., Civ
Zhongshan Elementary School
Minsheng
Zhongshan
Illustrations of Taiwanese porridge and snacks 21
Shuanglian 26
Shuanglian
1
Cha ng’a nW . Rd .
E. Rd
Xinxing Junior High School
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Chingguang Market 16 Memory of Taiwanese cuisine 20
Tatung University
Nanxi Cultural Creative Path
Taipei Fine Arts Museum and Taipei Story House 14 way
Japanese Tiaotong (jodori) Alley :A beautiful Taiwanese-Japanese mix in the city 52 Japanese Tiaotong (jodori)Alley
Chang’an E. Rd. Huashan1914 Creative Park
MRT. Banqiao Line
The past and present of the ten tiaotongs 54 Delicious Special Supplement: Liu-tiaotong's Taiwanese Cuisine 62
Creative Aesthetics-breeding Wonderland–Huashan 1914 Creative Park 74 Shandao Temple Station
華山
Information for Travelers 82
Stroll from Yuanshan to Huashan along Zhongshan North Road and discover the living aesthetics theater of metropolitan Taipei
Genetic code of Zhongshan District “Upon entering Guandu Notch, it suddenly widened up into a boundless yet infinitely large lake that stretches more than ten kilometers which is surrounded by high mountains; the whole area covered more than a hundred kilometers, and there was a plain in the center.” -- Yu Yonghe, Small Sea Travel Diaries, Qing Dynasty According to the book “Small Sea Travel Diaries” by Yu Yonghe who came to Taiwan for the extraction of sulfur in the Qing Dynasty, Taipei was a great lake back then. Indeed, in 1897, Japanese scholars Inō Kanori and Miyamura Sakae discovered prehistoric culture layers of stone and bone artifacts along with pottery on a shell mound at the Yuanshan area in Zhongshan. This archeological discovery confirmed the fact that Taipei’s Yuanshan area was a great lake with islets inhabited by human settlers in prehistoric times. More than four thousand years ago, humans began their dialogue with the land here. Although history has been leaving its mark since time immemorial, however the district named “Zhongshan” is relatively young among all 12 Taipei City administrative districts. In 1913, during Dr. Sun Yat-sen’s second visit to Taiwan, he lodged in Umeyashiki Inn (now Dr. Sun Yatsen Memorial House), which was the most prestigious hotel in Taipei City at that time. In order to commemorate his visit to Taipei, the Republic government merged six former Japanese-era administrative districts into one, and named it “Zhongshan”. In Zhongshan District, there is one main road which links the north and the south called “Zhongshan North Road”. It has become a unique landmark under the rules of different governments all wanting to achieve national unity. This road lined with Formosan sweet gum tree has witnessed countless stories in time. Walking down Zhongshan North Road is like stepping into Taiwan’s history. During the Qing Dynasty, Zhongshan North Road was just a main road that led to the northern areas of Taipei, such as Shihlin, Beitou, and Tamsui. Subsequently, it was given an even more definite location to go with the natural topographical features of Taipei Basin as well as 4
to conform to the norms of fengshui when the building of Taipei City was underway in the Qing Dynasty. After the Japanese Colonial Government took over Taiwan, several urban planning projects were carried out without delay, including those projects like the demolition of Taipei City Walls and the construction of 3-lane avenues. The Japanese also built the Taiwan Jinguu (Taiwan Grand Shrine) on Jiantan Mountain to enshrine Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa who had died in Taiwan. Present day Zhongshan North Road was designated Chokushi Kaido, which meant that it was the main road leading to the Grand Shrine. The Japanese installed landscaped medians in the center of the road where they planted camphor trees, while along the sidewalks sweet gum trees were planted. It was full of authentic Japanese feel along entire Zhongshan North Road. It was deliberately forged into an area to accommodate Japanese elites where they live in Kyoto style housings and shop in glamorous stores. This was Taiwan’s first modernized road. After the Japanese withdrawal, the Nationalist gover nment took over Taiwan and demolished the Grand Shrine. It was replaced by the Chinese traditional palace-style Grand Hotel. Many countries chose to establish their embassies along the modernized Zhongshan North Road. It also connects the airport, the Presidential Office Building, the Shilin Official Residence and other important establishments of the time, making it the most international zone in Taiwan. For those who waved their little flags parading on both sides of Zhongshan North Road as students welcoming visiting foreign dignitaries, this place certainly brings back a lot of good memories.
Author: Kuo Hsueh-hu (1908-2012) Title: Scenery near Yuan Shan Year: 1928 Material: Gouache on Silk Size: 94.5 x 188 cm 5
The living aesthetics metropolitan Taipei
theater
of
The construction of the Grand Shrine during Japanese colonial period had introduced various exotic foreign ambiences to Zhongshan North Road. During the Korean War, the personnel and families of the U.S. Military Assistance and Advisory Group which provided military services to Taiwan settled in the area north of Mintzu East and West Road on Zhongshan North Road. The Americans brought with them another kind of exotic aesthetics. In order to accommodate large number of foreign guests, many starhotels, high-class restaurants, bars, clubs, boutique shops, and big parks congregated on Zhongshan North Road. This road was the most modern and most internationalized sweet-gum-tree lined boulevard in Taiwan. In this place, you could live in the beauty of exotic lifestyles every day. It was the standard of luxury and refined foreign culture for common Taiwanese folks. All these exotic locations were concentrated on the area to the south of Yuanshan and to the east of Zhongshan North Road. After the Japanese rule came to an end and then with the withdrawal of the American military forces, cultural awareness has been rising progressively in these past couple of decades. The government has also begun promoting and giving support to the cultural-creative industry. Many historical buildings on Zhongshan North Road have been designated historical heritages over the years. Of all these historic sites, many have been refurbished and reused for various purposes. With the efforts of cultural workers and scholars, we can see the amazing transformations that some of these buildings have undergone. Today a screening center for artistic films, SPOT-Taipei Film House was once the former residence of the American Ambassador. There is also Tsai Jui-Yueh Dance Research Institute, which was literally reborn from the ashes after a disastrous fire nearly destroyed it. Of course, let’s not forget the beautiful Taipei Story House, which was once the retreat of a wealthy tea merchant in Yuanshan. By this time, many designing and cultural-creative studios had chosen to settle around SPOT-Taipei Film House on the west side of Zhongshan North Road. This place has become a center 6
of micro-cultural-creative industry. Here you can find popular brand names, such as Mogu, PPAPER, The One, Lovely Taiwan, which enjoy a high level of recognition among international Chinese communities. The products that these best-of-the-best contemporary Taiwanese cultural creative designers create are not only very market competitive but also highly trendsetting. Meanwhile, the local commoners’ lives on the other edge of the metropolitan area are moving forward, too. Chingguang Market, which was very popular among American soldiers, still retains that magic vibe of the foreign product consignment stores, but today it is one of the most popular food destinations in the city. Zhongshan North Road has also attracted numerous wedding related businesses with its exotic charm, thus transforming into the romantic “Wedding Street”. The nearby Shuanglian area was once an important supply material distribution center. Here you can find bustling traditional markets and Taipei Wenchang Temple, where vibrant energies seem to infinitely spread out of this area. Foreign and local cultures merge on Zhongshan North Road, giving it a multicultural facet. In Zhongshan District every corner is a trip back in time. You can see footprints and tracks left by the Japanese, Americans, and important figures such as politicians and business tycoons. It was also the most important distribution center of all kinds of merchandises. Without doubt, this is the only place in all of Taiwan where you can find such diverse and international historical background.
Cultural aesthetics district of Greater Zhongshan On this sweet-gum tree lined boulevard, eastern and western cultures merge to create a series of unique cultural aestheticism which is composed of the following keywords: Japanese tiaotong (jodori) streets, American nostalgia, boutique shops, common folk's lifestyle, aesthetics of living, and cultural creativity.
We shall start from Yuanshan and guide travelers through this most international and most trendy area of all Taipei. While on the way, we will visit Taipei City's historic legacies and experience Taipei's exquisite cultural lifestyle. We will also take travelers to the cultural creative district in Greater Zhongshan in order to let them understand how contemporary Taipei citizens blend cultural creativity into their daily lives and build their brisk lifestyle. In this book, we have preset our jour ney's boundaries to be within Greater Zhongshan area for travelers. From remains of prehistoric human activities in Yuanshan to section 4 through section 1 of Zhongshan North Road, we will take travelers on a journey by traversing the sweet-gum tree lined boulevard into 7 different areas: Yuanshan, Chingguang Market, star-hotels and boutiques, Shuanglian traditional markets, Nanxi (Nanjing West Road) commercial district, Japanese Tiaotong (jodori) Alley and cultural creative alleyways as well as Hwashan Creative Park. Travelers will learn about the essence and attitudes of Ta i p e i ' s d i f f e r e n t living aesthetics along this sweetgum lined boulevard. This is the Greater Zhongshan cultural aesthetics district, and it is waiting for you to discover its beauties.
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Yuanshan
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Tatung University
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Taipei 3 Children’s Recreation Center
Flora Expo Park
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Afterwards, public facilities such as Yuanshan Park, Taipei Children’s Recreation Center, Taipei Fine Arts Museum and Yuanshan Stadium were gradually completed. Moreover, the International Floral Exposition that combined the concept of sustainable management was held here. Today, this area is mostly full of parks and green grass, for the purpose of preserving precious Yuanshan archaeological site.
d., S
Yuanshan, located in Zhongshan North Road, is an independent small hill in the southern bank of Keelung River between Shilin and Tachih in Taipei City. Standing on Yuanshan, you can have a panoramic view of Taipei 101 and overlook the sunset of Guanyi Mountain on the other side of Tamshui River. To the north further, you can watch aircraft landing and taking off in Taipei Songshan Airport. The Grand Hotel that occupies the whole Jiantan Mountain is many people’s first impression on Taipei. Yuanshan, a remarkable place producing outstanding people, has a history of changing land use in different colonial periods. According to historical records, here were the ruins of where Taiwan’s
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Yu me
After the Japanese government came to Taiwan, it established not only Yuanshan shrine but also public facilities such as park, Huguo Chan Buddhist Temple of the Linji School and zoo. As an old saying goes, a true man loves the mountains while a wise man loves the sea. In 1913, Chen Zhao-jun, a famous tea trader in Dadaocheng, hired a Japanese architect to construct British Tudor-style villa by the side of Keelung River. The waterfront villa facilitated Chen to arrive from Dadaocheng via waterway and enjoy his vacation. Dr. Sun Yat-sen was also one of the guests before.
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On Zhongshan North Road lies Zhongshan Bridge, which was previously called Meiji Bridge. Across the Keelung River, the bridge connects Yuanshan in the southern riverbank and Jiantan Mountain in the northern riverbank. It also connects the road from Yuanshan shrine to the urban area southward. Lian Heng ever wrote a poem about Yuanshan. From the work, we can understand the geographic relationship and origin between Yuanshan and Jiantan Mountain, which has a beautiful folklore.
Jiantan
c.
famous scholar Chen Wei-ying in the late Qing Dynasty used to stay in his old age. From Chen’s poem, Yuanshan and Jiantan are indeed tranquil places with forests and mountains.
d . ,S e
In the prehistoric era, the people living here opened a dialogue with this piece of land. And our Greater Zhongshan aesthetic journey began from city archeology.
1. Taipei Fine Arts Museum 2. Taipei Story House 3. Taipei Children’s Recreation Center 4. Flora Expo Park 5. Main Trend Gallery 6. Yuan Shan Grand Hotel 7. Yuanshan Shinto Shrine 8. Yuan Shan Di Cang An 9. Exhibition Room of uanshan archaeological site 10. Huguo chan Buddhist Temple of the Linji School 11. Treellage Life Cafe
MRT. Tamsui Line
9
Yuanshan chronology of land use 1860
Chen Wei-ying, a successful candidate in the imperial examinations at the provincial level, constructed his dwelling.
1897
Taiwan Governor-General Office established Taiwan’s first metropolitan park, which is number one park in Taipei City today.
1900
Huguo Chan Buddhist Temple of the Linji School began construction.
1914
Chen Zhao-jun, a tea dealer in Dadaocheng, completed his Yuanshan villa.
1915
A Japanese person opened an area for people to watch plants and animals in Yuanshan in 1914. Taipei City Government bought it and changed it into a government-run zoo called Yuanshan Zoo.
1923
Yuanshan Stadium was established and is renamed Taipei Zhongshan Soccer Stadium today.
1934
During the middle of Japanese colonial period, Taiwan’s earliest and only public children’s playground was completed.
1963
Taipei Guest House was established, a place for United States military advisory group.
1987
After Yuanshan Zoo was moved, Taipei City Government constructed Children’s Recreation Center on the original site and set up an exhibition room of Yuanshan archaeological site in the center’s area named yesterday world.
1991
After newly planned, children’s playground was officially renamed “Taipei Children’s Recreation Center,” which is still in use till today.
2009
Yuanshan area was used for the Floral Exposition.
What is an archaeological site? A c c o rd i n g t o L i u Yi chang, a researcher at the Institute of History and Philosophy under Academic Sinica as well as Taiwan’s famous archaeologist, an archaeological site refers to the things or related phenomena that human beings in the past left and are accumulated inside the ground or in the ground surface. The area where these things are left or ruins exist is called archaeological site. An archaeological site is related to time and space, having clearly defined monuments with substantial existence. Yuanshan archaeological site is where a group of people lived about four thousand years ago. The area of archaeological site covers from Jiuquan Street, Chengde Road, Keelung riverside to Zhongshan North Road. This vast tract of area is the main area where these people had their social life. Many things are left; the most famous one are the ruins of shells discarded and piled around the houses. We call them shell mound. This kind of shell mound composed of a large number of shells is a form of archaeological site. Based on this concept, we can clearly understand the formation process and meaning of the archaeological site. Following the international convention, the site is thus named “Yuanshan archaeological site,” and what this site represents is named “Yuanshan culture.”
of regional pottery, stone, bone, jade and many shell mounds.
E x h i b i t i o n r o o m o f Yu a n s h a n archaeological site and planned location of Yuanshan site historic park
Till now, if you still do not know what Yuanshan archaeological site is or cannot wait for an archaeological trip, please come visit the exhibition room of Yuanshan archaeological site in Taipei Children’s Recreation Center. There are explanation and simulation of Yuanshan cultural layers, as well as precious excavated relics. They are waiting for you to discover. Outside the recreation center is large green grassland, where Yuanshan site historic park is planned to be established. Through this broad land, you can get closer to Yuanshan and feel the prehistoric cultural pulse.
Cultural features and artifacts
Yuanshan archeological site and Yuanshan culture
I n t h e s a m e l o c a t i o n a s Yu a n s h a n archaeological site, different cultural legacies are found in different layers of depth. The excavation of Yuanshan archaeological site includes six prehistoric cultural layers and one historical cultural layer, including Han culture in the Qing Dynasty, Shihsanhang culture, botanical garden culture, Yuanshan culture, Xuntangpu culture, Tapenkeng culture and Prepottery culture. Major cultural features consist
Representative era: Late Neolithic age Representative relic: shell mound During the prehistoric period, Taipei Basin was a large lake where fresh water and salt water join. Yuanshan was a small islet emerging from the lake. Those who stayed on this small islet during the Stone Age lived on capturing shellfish, fishing and farming. This was the most primitive appearance of Yuanshan.
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Taipei Children’s Recreation Center Here is especially suitable for travelers with children. Ferris wheel, teacup ride, bumper cars and merry-go-round remind many people of their childhood memories. Colorful playground is full of laughter and wonderful things. Compared with other big amusement parks, this mini-sized children’s recreation center is not inferior at all. Its recreational facilities are safe for adults and children to enjoy. Next to Jiantan, this small recreation center lights up all children’s innocent heart under such a clear sky.
Huguo Chan Buddhist Temple of the Linji School Across the planned location of historic park, we arrive at Huguo Chan Buddhist Temple of the Linji School completed in 1911. It was built by a Japanese missionary during the Japanese colonial era, worshipping Sakyamuni Buddha inside. It was an important place to preach Buddhism in Taipei during that era and is a rarely seen pure Buddhism shrine in Taipei City among most of Taiwan’s temples mixing Buddhism and Taoism. This temple is a wooden architecture with double eave roof and is the only Buddhism temple with the name of Huguo (protecting the country). GovernorGeneral Kodama Gentaro used to write a poem in memory of the temple. Japan is deeply influenced by the concept of Tang Dynasty, thus preserving the dynasty’s architectural style. The wooden structure of this temple’s main hall is the earliest masterpiece among the existent Japanese-style buildings. It is surrounded by Japanese-style whetstones, stone statues and an important bell tower. When walking into the temple, you can get rid of the city’s hustle and bustle and have the deepest communication with the mind.
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Yuanshan scenic areas: Yuanshan shrine, Grand Hotel and Yuanshan Shinto shrine During the Japanese colonial era, the Japanese people introduced its unique shrine culture into Taiwan, constructing a large number of shrines with an aim of “one street, one village, and one shrine.” They expected that the change of faith would unobtrusively and imperceptibly transform Taiwanese people to be subjugated to their emperor. Japanese shrines in different places have different functions. Located in Jiantan Mountain and built in 1901, Taipei shrine worshiped some Japanese warriors who led the troops to take over Taiwan after the Sino-Japanese War but later died in Taiwan. Taiwan shrine was upgraded in 1944 as the noblest shrine in Taiwan as well as the guardian of the homeland management. When Crown Prince Hirohito came to Taiwan in 1923, he paid a special visit to this shrine. This beautiful shrine was called one of the eight wonders in Taiwan at that time. After the Nationalist government came to Taiwan, it demolished the shrine and constructed the Grand Hotel on the same site. It was the best high-class tourist hotel in Taipei after the Second World War. Located on the top of Jiantan Mountain, this palace architecture looks as high as sky and has beautiful scenery. Behind it is the famous Yuanshan scenic area, which used to be a military control and protection forest area. That is why natural forests can be preserved and distributed throughout the whole hiking trail. All of the visiting travelers can hardly forget its natural beauty. In the scenic area, there is a rarely seen Yuanshan Shinto shrine worshipping the Japanese god of water. This shrine is to comfort the souls of those devoted to the construction of Grass Mountain Waterway, hoping the god of water to guard the hard-earned precious water resources. According to Japanese customs, shrines are mostly established in the park or forest with thick trees and quiet atmosphere, so that worshippers will naturally feel solemnity. Till now, Yuanshan Shinto shrine still retains its unique tranquility. When coming here, travelers can see the process of Taiwan’s water industry over the century. They can also experience an ancient Japanese style different from Taipei’s metropolitan style. In Yuanshan, everything is so natural and beautiful. 13
Taipei Fine Arts Museum and Taipei Story House Taipei Fine Arts Museum is composed of numerous white cubes, while Taipei Story House looks like a dollhouse in the fairy tale. One in the left and the other in the right both provide intellectual travelers with distinctive exhibition spaces. As the first modern art museum in Taiwan, Taipei Fine Arts Museum is often a pioneer in organizing world artistic activities, as well as a leader in Taiwan’s museums. The exhibitions organized here are of significance. For instance, Taipei Biennial, held once every two years, invites many artists from Taiwan and other countries to speak respectively. From this event, the interaction between foreign and Taiwan’s arts and cultural communities can be observed. It has become a very important event in Taiwan’s world of arts and culture in recent years. Taipei Story House was established by Chen Zhaojun, a tea dealer in Dadaocheng, in 1913. As a British Tudor-style building, it has an English-style small garden in front of the door, which grows many flowers. Its small and cute tower, brick red and bright light yellow colors, and decorations on the outer wall looking like tree branches, all are very appealing. As both a heritage site and an exhibition space, Taipei Story House is managed by Chen Guoci, who actively promotes the cultural and creative industry. This also shows the civil power of Taipei’s culture in depth. The story house is managed from the subtle details, promoting Taiwan’s local culture and cultivating volunteers. Its well-planned special exhibitions and cycle of changing exhibitions quarterly attract a large number of domestic and overseas enthusiasts.
Additional info: Next to Taipei Story House, “Story Tea House” is composed of ground glass and white steel columns. It is managed by Landis Taipei Hotel highly devoted to artistic and cultural activities, serving French cuisine and light meals. Its outdoor seats are set up in the square in front of the museum and close to Zhongshan North Road. Sitting here, you can see Yuanshan and Jiantan Mountain in the distance, with Keelung River flowing beside. In the southern riverbank of Zhongshan Bridge, you can enjoy such beautiful scenery and fun. This is indeed a kind of small happiness in life. The downstairs of the museum is a café named Cosi O Cosi. When in need of a rest after visit, you can enjoy Italian cuisine and light meals here. It is a must to have good food when traveling in a beautiful place!
Taipei Expo Park As Taipei International Floral Expo concluded in 2010, its Expo Park, Pavilion of Future, Pavilion of Dreams and EXPO hall are all preserved to continue exhibitions and performances. A large unsheltered view and green grass is suitable for travelers to slow down their paces and enjoy the quiet space. Those who enjoy the view on the riverbank should never miss Dajia Riverside Park. A large water fountain inside the park is especially popular in summer, and the vast grassland enables you to take a nap, have a picnic, read a book, or walk your puppy freely. Some energetic people even choose to ride their bicycles to Dadaocheng wharf, which is equivalent to riding one fourth of Taipei basin’s total peripheral distance. 14
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Chingguang Market Popular memory of imported products: American trend After the trip to Yuanshan, we head southward, pass through Minzu East and West Road, and arrive at Zhongshan North road. A sign with yellow base and red words written Chingguang is in the front. It was where we started to have a deeper link with Western American culture then: colorful streets, pedestrians wearing fashionable clothes, and full of Chinese and Western grocery stores. This American country-style adds another exotic aesthetics to the beauty of Taipei City.
Delicious memory in the market: Chingguang Market
Taipei Artistic Park
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Walking further inside, we can see the T-shaped two streets full of shops. Each shop is so clean and places fish, meat, vegetables and household goods in order. A Chinese medicine pharmacy founded half a century ago still serves in the market. Some good tastes are inherited over decades, such as Chingguang noodles, red bean cake, tofu pudding, soup noodles, rice cake, braised food and taro riceflour noodles. These traditional cuisines can still make people hungry.
Minzu
Zhongsha
F ro m Z h o n g s h a n N o r t h R o a d e n t r a n c e , previous agents can still be seen in today’s Chingguang Market, but there are not merely imported products from the United States in the shop window. Japanese, Korean and Taiwanese clothing, jewelry, daily necessities and snacks are sold in different shops. Many of them still sell imported products, jewelry boutiques and foreign commodities, which are twenty to thirty percent cheaper than those in the department stores. It is another option to buy something cheaper!
Yuanshan
Deh
T h e o r i g i n a l l y t h r i v i n g a n d p ro s p e ro u s Chingguang Market and its surroundings gradually declined after Taiwan-U.S. diplomatic tie was over. With the opening of market economy, the exclusive agents in the market were no longer unique. In 1997, Chingguang Market suffered from a big fire. After that, the market was re-organized and re-opened as it looks today. It is clean and tidy. With canopy, sunny or rainy days have no difference in visiting the market.
Sec.3
According to the recall of Mr. Yang Zhao, an important contemporary writer in Taipei who grows up in Chingguang Market, this market was like a dream entrance in his childhood and was almost the most luxurious place in Taipei at that time. Indeed, this small market was considered a microcosm of American life. A large number of extremely luxurious and rarely seen imported products, including Coca-Cola, Fanta, Sprite, Lux soap, sparkling gemstone jewelry, Levis’ jeans, chocolate, cheese, cigar and Western alcohol, were displayed in the shop windows of the agents.
MRT. Tamsui Line
engd e Rd .,
In the Qing Dynasty, the surroundings of Chingguang Market were fields with cows everywhere. It was thus called “Nioupuzai,” meaning many cows. In the Japanese colonial era, this area was an ordinary market. In the second year after the outbreak of the Korean War, the United States military advisory group was established in Taipei. Many U.S. military goods and materials entered the market from P.X. (U.S. welfare center) or by military family dependents. Chingguang Market became the earliest place to sell imported products in Taipei. After the outbreak of Vietnam War, the U.S. military also set up R&R (Rest and Recreation) here. Taiwan, in a sense, became U.S. soldiers’ temporary resort. There were a large number of bars, pubs, American restaurants, exotic shops, nightclubs and the sex industry everywhere.
10.Tatung University 11.Caves Bookstore 12.Wedding Street 13.Shuang cheng night market in the daytime and nighttime 14.Chingguang Market 15.St. Christopher’ s Church
Ch
Dream entrance from Nioupuzai to imported products
Those products written in a foreign language became children’s exotic imagination and U.S. soldiers’ homesick nostalgia.
1.Shin Yen Restaurant 2.Mitsui Japanese Restaurant 3.Mitsui Kyoku 4.Farm House 5.Florida Bakery 6.Frees Gallery 7.VT Art Gallery 8.Jia Gallery 9.8F Gallery
Zhongshan Elementary School
Minquan E. Rd
MRT Xinzhuang Line
Walking from Yuanshan to this place, you must feel tired. Find a small shop you like and taste some local delicacy in the market. After strength comes back, you can keep on your journey! Yang Zhao
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Mrs. Chang soup noodles Mrs. Chang soup noodles has been serving people in Chingguang Market for more than thirty years and passed to the third generation so far. Its small stand is always filled with Taiwanese people’s favorite side dishes when having soup noodles, such as braised pork, pig’s viscera and goose. Each of them is personally selected and cooked by Mrs. Chang and thus tasted with home cooked flavor. The soup of the noodles is also specially prepared and so tasty that the customers want more than one bowl. You can order more side dishes, share with your companions and enjoy the real Taiwanese taste.
Dinxiang tofu pudding What is your impression of Taiwan’s tofu pudding? Soft, white and slippery tofu with syrup and peanuts? In addition to that, there is another Dinxiang tofu pudding popular all over Taiwan. It is your another nostalgic choice in Chingguang Market. This kind of tofu pudding adds eggs inside and tastes like pudding. Compared to traditional tofu pudding, it tastes more slippery and soft. When coming here, you can order a bowl mixing traditional and Dinxiang tofu puddings, enjoying both flavors at the same time.
Red bean cake in Chingguang Red bean cake is a well-known snack in Taiwan’s street. Its custard, red bean and radish flavors are particularly famous. This small cake covers rich fillings and is considered the best afternoon dessert that elementary students like very much. In the market, there is one wellknown stand whose owner is so generous to fill the cake fully. Hurry to line up earlier, or it might be sold out quickly.
Taro rice noodle soup In the wet warm tropical and subtropical areas, taro is a very important root corp. In Taiwan, taro grows a lot in Pingtung, Taichung and Miaoli. Many dishes related with taro are thus produced. Meanwhile, rice is also an important food crop in Taiwan. Therefore, taro rice noodles are the combination of Taiwan’s specialty dishes. There is an old shop opened in Chingguang Market over fifty years which uses taro from Dajia District in Taichung City and rice from Puli Township in Nantou County, along with specially braised red onions and minced meat fillings. It is great to have a bowl of hot taro rice noodle soup in winter. This is how Taiwanese snacks give people a sense of happiness.
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Colorful childhood memory: Florida Bakery Although the U.S. army left, Nongan Street, Shuangcheng Street and Dehui Street that surround Chingguang Market still preserve some American legacy. Florida Bakery Ltd. in Zhongshan North Road, for instance, give many people exotic sweet memory. In response to the coming of American residents, it produces colorful sugar cookies, candies, cakes and bread. For the Taiwanese people, this colorful wonderland is like a dream. Today this shop still displays American-style cookies, chocolate beans, gingerbread and brilliant pastries in the window. Here is definitely one of the unique sceneries in Taipei. 19
In this chapter, we particularly select Taiwanese cuisine for you to experience authentic local taste here. You will feel like a guest at Taiwanese people’s home. After trying the home style cuisine, we will continue to introduce classic Taiwanese-style traditional cuisine. When you hang around in Greater Zhongshan, this booklet can lead you to taste all delicious Taiwanese cuisine.
Memory of Taiwanese cuisine: Shin Yeh Restaurants In addition to the American joyful memory, Shuangcheng Street is also where one of the most famous restaurants of Taiwanese cuisine, Shin Yeh, was founded. Among all of Taiwanese cuisine restaurants, Shin Yeh in Taipei is the first one to lead Taiwanese cuisine in the exquisite and internationalized direction. Mrs. Lee Xiu-ying, born in Taipei, began her business with eleven tables in Shuangcheng Street around thirty years ago. She and her mother worked hard together, buying food materials and cooking on their own. As the business gradually expanded and prospered, they hired experienced chefs excelled in Taiwanese cuisine to work in Shin Yeh. This short Shuangcheng Street has Shin Yeh’s flagship store, Shuangcheng Huiguan branch and Shin Yeh Shabu Shabu in a row. The street, to certain degree, belongs to Shin Yeh’s Taiwanese cuisine business. When starting up her business, Mrs. Lee broke ordinary people’s stereotype that a Taiwanese cuisine restaurant could only serve porridge and snacks without formal dishes. She brought Taiwanese cuisine into the formal banquet and gradually fueled up the importance of Taiwanese cuisine. Moreover, she worked with airline company’s catering services by providing delicate and delicious Taiwanese cuisine on the plane, creating a way to introduce the essence of Taiwanese cuisine to the world. Mrs. Lee’s pragmatic spirit also reflects on selected food materials and considerate service. Having tens of branches now, Shin Yeh still upholds the original intention as it was founded. It is dedicated to the exquisiteness of traditional Taiwanese cuisine and maintenance of high quality in all branches. In Shin Yeh Restaurant, assorted classic local cuisine, such as dried radish egg, fried pork liver, deep-fried chicken chunks and fried rice noodles, can let you experience Taiwanese warmth and taste. Shin Yeh also pursues improvement. Mrs. Lee sets up a skill-passing kitchen that focuses on the improvement of cooking seasonal ingredients and records Taiwan’s unique cooking recipes. Through inheritance from the previous generation, it aims to faithfully preserve the taste of Taiwanese cuisine and allow every customer to eat healthy and safe food.
Taiwanese porridge and snacks Speaking of the origin of Taiwanese porridge and snacks, we need to go back to the 1960s when Taiwan’s economy took off. At that time, with the increasing demand for business entertainment, people tended to have a feast in the city first and then continued eating at the hot spring resort restaurants in Beitou, which provide not only luxurious banquets but also lighter porridge and snacks. Therefore, the so-called porridge and snacks seem to be able to remove the effects of alcohol and satisfy the appetite. As a result, they began to develop in Taipei’s areas which thrive with night life, such as Zhongshan District. It has become many people’s special memory at night. Today, the restaurants serving porridge and snacks are different from before. The famous Taiwanese cuisine restaurant, Shin Yeh, provides the afternoon tea set that unlimitedly supplies sweet potato porridge with classic snacks like dried radish egg and fried pork liver. It offers more imagination to the traditional afternoon tea.
Illustrations of Shin Yeh
The porridge and snacks provided by the restaurant include dozens of choices with light standard porridge or sweet potato porridge. These snacks are meant to enhance the taste. Different from traditional dishes, the snacks placed in small plates are very dazzling and satisfy your appetite with their diversity. Sweet potato is Taiwan’s unique root crop with high nutritional value. In the difficult era, people could not afford rice, so they put a lot of sweet potato inside the porridge for many meals. Today as the economy of the society improves, sweet potato porridge becomes a nostalgic and healthy good taste. The specially selected sweet potato mixed in the rice is a popular food for both adults and children.
Sweet potato porridge
Greater Zhongshan Anecdotes Shin Yeh used its dried radish egg to create a donation miracle On March 11, 2011, a catastrophic earthquake took place in the northeastern part of Japan and caused devastating destruction and loss of life. Shin Yeh Restaurants, which has always maintained a good relationship with Japanese tourists, took the initiative to join the disaster relief program. The group called the six subsidiary restaurants to donate the revenues of each dish of dried radish egg sold from March 21 to June 19. In a total of 100 days, 22,814 orders of dried radish egg were sold to bring in NT$4.727 million thanks to this donation platform by Shin Yeh. Each egg represents a warm affectionate heart and the good taste of the restaurant which dedicated to quality service and food.
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Dried radish egg
Taiwan produces abundantly radish in winter. The people in the old days particularly cherished the food ingredients, so they cut radish into slices or blocks, soaked it in the salt water and dried it. It can be preserved for a long term and used in the soup or dishes later. Egg is an important source of protein to increase nutrition. At home, the mother put salty radish in the egg and fry the eggs for the whole family. This savory dried radish egg represents the mother’s infinite love. As upholding the care for the guests, Shin Yeh is very cautious about the process of producing dried radish egg. The big and thick fried egg made by the experienced chef stands for a warm welcome of the restaurant to the customers.
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Fried oyster in black bean sauce
Boiled sweet potato leaves
Taiwan’s unique sweet potato, from its roots to leaves, is the treasure given to us by god. The leaves of sweet potato can be boiled in water and topped with lard and soy sauce. The taste of the past difficult life appears again. The soft texture of sweet potato leaves is particularly good for elders with bad teeth.
It is a typical Mingnan flavor. Black bean sauce is not only an indispensable common taste in Taiwan’s families of early days but also an important supporting role in Taiwanese cuisine. This sauce is particularly suitable for the seafood and can make the food more tasty. Fresh oysters are juicy and rich in vitamins and minerals with high nutritional value. It thus becomes a great match between oysters and Taiwanese local sauce.
Braised pork
Boiled sweet potato leaves
Clam is an ancient liver tonic. As Compendium of Materia Medica says, clam has many positive functions for the body. For those physically exhausted, with liver diseases or excessive drinkers, they need to eat clams more. Fresh clams are pickled in soy sauce, hot pepper and sugar, in a exquisite balance of sweet, spicy and salty tastes. It is a perfect companion for porridge.
Pork is largely consumed in Taiwan. As Taiwan’s cultivation industry is advanced, it breeds a variety of piglets with high quality. Soy sauce and seasoning for stewing are used to cook pork chunk until soft. The caramel-colored braised pork is well-proportioned and can be melted in the mouth. This fat but not greasy meat reveals the chef’s skill. If the children do not have a good appetite, this braised pork and marinade can attract them to eat a lot.
Steamed pork with pickled cucumber It can be quickly made with electric cooker. Put the half-fat and halflean minced pork mixed with pickled cucumber inside the electric cooker. The chewy steamed pork with salty and fragrant flavor reminds people of mother’s cooking and enhances the appetite.
Fried pork liver The restaurant selects fresh pork livers every day and cut them into 0.8 cm in thickness. The fried liver is crispy outside and soft inside, and it is particularly suitable for women to supplement iron. Its fresh and soft taste will subvert your impression on dry and hard pork liver.
Fried milkfish
Fried silver fish with peanuts
Milkfish is Taiwan’s representative fish. In the Ming Dynasty, it was said that when Zheng Cheng-gong landed in Taiwan, the fishermen presented fresh fish as a token of welcome. Zheng did not see that fish before and asked what the fish was. The fishermen thus thought that the fish was given the name of “milkfish” by Zheng. In Tainan, where the aquaculture industry is well developed, milkfish is an important economic produce. It has high nutritional value and is rich in DHA, unsaturated fatty acids and proteins. Moreover, fish is good for digestion and suitable for children and elder people. The common ways to cook milkfish is to fry and make soup. Put a pinch of salt on the surface and fry it with oil until it tastes crispy and juicy. However, travelers must be careful of its tiny fish bones.
Fried silver fish with peanuts is a very popular appetizer. It is made of the threecentimeter-long small silver fish growing in the sea of Penghu and is baked to dry. The small fish are rich in nutrition, having functions of increasing appetite and stopping diarrheal. It is rich in calcium as an important natural nutritious food. The other supporting ingredient, peanut, is also one of Taiwan’s crucial agricultural produces. Peanuts are rich in protein and can be easily absorbed by the body. Come to order a plate of fried silver fish with peanuts to go with the 22
Braised bamboo shoots
Taiwan grows a lot of bamboos. After the Dragon Boat Festival, it is the growing season for bamboo shoots that grow mostly in Taichung, Yunlin and Nantou. Bamboo shoots are particularly suitable for cooking in a long time. Some businesspeople sell dried bamboo shoots which can be made into different dishes. Braised bamboo shoots is a simple but delicious home dish. The marinade tastes salty while bamboo shoots taste sweet. This is the purest delicacy.
Braised tofu
Tofu is an important ingredient in the Chinese cuisine. It is affordable and has high nutrition. To f u m a d e o f s o y c o n t a i n s important lecithin and soy protein. Braising is a common cooking way by using soy sauce. Tofu is braised slowly and thus turns into gold yellow color. Its special smell and taste is so distinctive and delicious.
Fried octopus balls Fresh octopus balls from Penghu are a gift from the ocean. They are deep fried in extremely hot oil, thus turning shining color outside. Try to have a bite when they are freshly fried. You can feel as they bounce in your mouth!
Almond junket
Different from the junket mechanically made in other stores, Shin Yeh’s almond junket is manually made of almond rice milk. This handmade insistence makes almond junket as chewy as handmade meat balls. Each bite contains almond aroma. Having a small bowl of almond junket refreshes your mind and disperses the heat. 23
Additional info Tatung University: Around Chingguang Market, there is another exotic place, Tatung University, located opposite to St. Christopher’s Church. Its campus has many large trees and Greek templestyle buildings. Such a romantic place is a good location to take wedding photos.
Caves Bookstore: In this American-style neighborhood, how did the local people learn a foreign language? On Zhongshan North Road, Caves Bookstore was founded in 1952. From the beginning, it imported foreign books and published language textbooks and dictionaries, with complete devotion to Taiwan’s English education. Do you have a hard time learning a foreign language? Come to Caves Bookstore and choose a suitable textbook for yourself!
Greater Zhongshan Anecdotes
Happy wedding street
Shuangcheng night market in the daytime and nighttime The legendary of Shuangcheng Street is not just about Taiwanese cuisine. The outermost area of Chingguang Market also has a small night market. Although it is called night market, its vendors run their business all day long, so you can have night market delicacies in the daytime. Shuangcheng Street were originally filled with mobile vendors. Many of them came here from other counties in early days, working hard to bring hometown delicacies to customers after settling down in Shuangcheng Street. After being re-organized, this market divides the original food stands into day and night shifts. Each stall has a fixed location, neatly lining on both sides of the street. The most famous characteristic here is its freshly cooking culture. Sesame oil dishes, soup porridge, stir-fries and goose are all well-known food in Shuangcheng Street. Come to enjoy these delicacies now!
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Chingguang Market is also known for its wedding street. Between Section 3 and 2 of Zhongshan North Road, on both sides of the road, tens of wedding dress rental companies gather together and form the famous wedding street in the city. In Taiwan, taking wedding photos is convenient with high quality services. From professional advice, wedding dress selection, makeup, filming indoors and outdoors, photo selection to post production, these companies provide one-on-one and one-stop services. They have a variety of wedding dress designs, including Chinese-style, Western-style, formal dress, cheongsam and many kinds of other styles. The locations to shoot the wedding photos are all over Taiwan. Each couple will have an unforgettable memory of taking wedding photos. In response to contemporary wedding photo trend, many wedding companies launch photography packages. Either personal collection or wedding photography can do. These packages combine tourism in Taiwan and wedding photo shooting with reasonable prices. You can spend your honeymoon in Taiwan in advance. Afterwards, your wedding photos will be sent to you overseas. When traveling in Taiwan, you can consider asking around these wedding companies in Greater Zhongshan area, seeing Taiwan’s beautiful scenery and keeping your happy memories forever!
International telephone card sold in the Philippine bazaar
Nongan Street: Walking eastward from Shuangcheng Taiwanese cuisine street, you will get to Nongan Street. Here is noted for its Japanese cuisine. The high-class Japanese cuisine group in Taiwan, Mitsui, started the business from Nongan Street. You can taste different Japanese cuisines here.
“Zhongshan” holiday bazaar for foreign workers Walking from Shuangcheng Street’s night market to Zhongshan North Road, you will see St. Christopher’s Church noted for the English Mass on the northeast side. Taiwan officially opened the introduction of foreign workers in 1992. These hard-working blue-collar foreign workers, especially Filipino as the majority, regularly go to St. Christopher’s Church for a Mass on Sundays every week. After the Mass, it is their happy little time. Many shops near Chingguang Market, which used to sell fine products, began to serve foreign workers exclusively. Many other shops and vendors sprung up around the church as well. Just in a few years, the place becomes the most important holiday bazaar for foreign workers in Taipei. Therefore, the workers call this area “Zhongshan.”
In Zhongshan holiday bazaar for foreign workers near Chingguang Market, you may find vendors selling telephone prepaid cards no matter in Philippine supermarkets, under the façade or on the sidewalk. These phone cards include the mobile SIM card and international long distance phone card. Not only the Philippine workers use these cards frequently to contact their families but also other foreigners use them to call mainland China, Malaysia, the United States, Vietnam, Thailand, and so on. There is a great variety of cards to choose from at reasonable prices. If you need to make a long distance call back home while on the road, consider purchasing a card at this place.
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MRT Xinzhuang Line Minquan West Road
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Zhongshan Elementary School
Xinxing Junior High School
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Mackay Memorial Hosptial
0,Sec.1,
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Minshen
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In the earlier days, Shuanglianpi was surrounded by extensive open fields. During the Japanese colonial period, the rail line connecting Taipei and Tamsui was constructed which went through this area. However, due to the low-lying land which was an obstacle for the railroad, the area was filled and leveled up. After the completion of Shuanglian railway station in 1915, merchandises were transported to Shuanglian station by train and then transferred to Dihua Street in Dadaocheng, making it the most important distribution center of commodities and goods coming from all parts the country. The surrounding area next to the railway station also prospered with the development of the station. In 1988, the Taipei-Tamsui rail line was decommissioned to give way for the installment of Taipei MRT system. Shuanglian station regained its original function as a train station in 1997 following the inauguration of the Tamsui MRT line. Compared with the westernized Ching Guang Market, the Shuanglian area seems to preserve more of that genuine local flavor.
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After passing Niouputsai and traversing the wedding street, we go westbound from Mackay Memorial Hospital at the intersection of Minsheng West Road to arrive at the Shuanglian area known as Shuanglianpi in the past. The name "Shuanglianpi" referred to two connected ponds, which reflected the fact that in ancient times Taipei was a marshland full of scattered ponds. According to the narration of noted historian Lin Heng-tao, present day Taipei metropolitan area used to be a boundless ocean five thousand years ago. Before the retrocession of power back to the Nationalist government, there were still quite a few lakelets scattered throughout Taipei city which were called "pi" or "po" in Taiwanese. The most recognized ones were Yongchunpi in present day Songshan District, Shuanglianpi on present day Minsheng West Road, and Longanpi on present day Heping East Road. Shuanglianpi was located right behind today's Mackay Memorial Hospital on Zhongshan North Road near the Shuanglian Railway Station of the Tamsui Line. Sixty years ago, Mackay Memorial Hospital was consisted of four two-story red brick mansions, among which two buildings were used as hospital and the other two as dormitory for its foreign staff. Before the retrocession of Taiwan, Shuanglianpi had already been filled and land reclaimed for the construction of affordable Taiwanese style apartments.
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From Shuanlianpi to Shuanglian Station
Zhongshan Elementary School
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Zhon gshan N . Rd. Sec. 2,
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Rd
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MRT. Tamsui Line
1.Zhongshan Public Assembly Hall 2.Taipei Eye 3.Sunrise Records 4.Shuanglian Market 5.Wenchang Temple 6.Dahe Japanese cuisine
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Shuanglian Morning Market and Wenchang Temple Exiting from Shuanglian MRT station and heading northbound in the morning, you will find that the entire MRT park near the station is filled with busy vendors gathering in this traditional morning market. However in the afternoon, it will transform into a food bazaar offering local residents delicacies and comestibles. On the way there, you will also pass by Taipei Wenchang Temple which is over half a century old. This is the only independent Wenchang temple in Taipei City. Its patron deity, Wenchang Dijun, is a Taoist deity known as the God of Culture and Literature. In Chinese culture, both academic and professional achievement are considered the most important goals of one's life. Therefore, the temple is always jam-packed with students during the exam periods, and constantly filled with wishing boards. The so-called inseparable coexistence of temples and markets is illustrated by the example of Shuanglian Market and its neighboring Wenchang Temple only 300 meters apart. In the morning, under the large colorful umbrellas are vendors selling various kinds of fresh fruits and vegetables on both sides of the road. There are also several stands selling prepared food and delicatessen on the spot, daily commodities, clothing and accessories to attract the continuously emerging crowds. The yelling of the sellers and the bargaining power of the buyers in the market best illustrates the vigorous beauty of the traditional markets. In the surrounding areas near the market, one can find a cluster of shops that offer delicious traditional delicacies, such as Xiangmanyuan braised pork rice, Yanshan rice dumplings, spring onion rolls, Gaoji dumplings, Shuanglian sweet rice ball, Shuanglian pan-fried sticky rice sausage, and Ah-Tong Ah-Bao Restaurant all stood to the test of time. These shops have become unforgettable and inseparable companions for local citizens which grew up with them. After leaving Shuanglian Morning Market, we turn around and head back to Zhongshan North Road. This hundred-year-old Formosan sweet-gum tree lined boulevard has seen countless historical events and occurrences that had influenced and set the course of Taiwan's historical development. There are some important locations which witnessed the contemporary evolution of the Taiwanese society. Those travelers who are interested in history as well as stories and small anecdotes should never miss it.
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Mackay Memorial Hospital The hospital was established in memory of Dr. George Leslie Mackay who was a Canadian of Scottish descent, and has devoted his entire life to advocating the word of Christianity since young. In 1872, the Canadian Presbyterian Church commissioned him to go to Taiwan as a medical missionary, and he started to learn Chinese language and characters as well as Taiwanese dialects during his stay in Taiwan. During his evangelization in the northern part of Taiwan, he has established more than sixty churches in thirty years. What's more, he traveled to remote inaccessible mountainous areas to visit and serve the aboriginal tribes. Besides his work in the service of the church, he has also made remarkable contributions to the general medical standard in Taiwan which was considerably upgraded with his help. Then in 1882, he founded the well-known Mackay Clinic in Tamshui, which was the predecessor of present day Mackay Memorial Hospital. He also traveled to remote villages in the countryside with his assistants offering free dental services. It is said that he had pulled an impressive number of over 21,000 teeth during his stay in Taiwan. Although Dr. Mackay lived in such a rough period where the general medical standard was depressingly low and the impoverished majority of the population lacked both commodities and resources, he still managed to make a difference in people's lives. He fulfilled people's physical, emotional and spiritual needs and is still highly venerated by the Taiwanese people today. After the death of Dr. Mackay, the work at the Mackay Tamshui Clinic has come to a halt for five years. Until 1905, under the auspices of the Canadian Presbyterian Mission, Dr. J.Y. Ferguson came to Taiwan to reopen the clinic in Tamshui. Soon after, the clinic was relocated from the small riverside community of Tamshui to its present site in the large metropolis of Shuanglianpi in Taipei. At the new location, the humble clinic was expanded into a two-story hospital with archway facade and renamed "Mackay Memorial Hospital" to commemorate the great deeds and nobility of Mackay. Later, in the proceeding refurbishment construction, the hospital was expanded to sixteen-story high. Visitors can take a look at the artifacts and historical documents about Dr. Mackay and the founding of the hospital in the archive center on the fifteenth floor. You can also learn about the devotion and selfless dedication of one man to Taiwan as well as the development of Taiwan's medical history in modern times.
TaipeiEYE Taiwanese business tycoon Koo Hsien-jung was an influential figure in the history of Taiwan. He was also the leading patriarchal figure of the "Lukang Koo Family", which is one of the top five most prominent clans in Taiwan. He was best known for being chosen to represent the business gentry from Monga in welcoming the Japanese army entering Taipei after the first Sino-Japanese War. His sons Koo Chen-fu and Koo Kuan-min both enjoyed high prestigious social and political status in Taiwan. The development of the Koo family history can be regarded as the miniature history of Taiwan. A little to the north of Mackay Memorial Hospital is Taiwan Cement Building, the headquarter of the family cement business.
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The Koo family is an ardent sponsor of culture and art. Beginning from 2004, the Cement Hall of Taiwan Cement Building owned by the family has been serving as the home of TaipeiEYE. The most distinctive feature of this traditional Chinese performing arts group is the interaction between the performers and the audience. During the intermission, the actors would walk out of the frame-like stage into the audience and conduct improvised performances and interactions. Every complete show is of 90 minutes in length. By means of Peking opera, acrobatics, folk music played with such traditional instruments as the nanguan, beiguan and bayin, aboriginal dance and music, Chinese opera including Taiwanese opera and hand puppetry, travelers can feel the true essence of genuine Chinese culture. Regular performances on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays are meant to amaze you with delightful surprises.
Additional info: Zhongshan Public Assembly Hall There are more than one artistic space near Shuanglian Mor ning Market. Not far from TaipeiEYE sits the former dormitory of Northern Taipei Region Military Police Battalion which was redesigned as a public hall with the support of the government encouraging the revitalization and reutilization of cultural assets. Under such auspices, this old historic building was reborn. There are regular cultural events and exhibitions related to Zhongshan District on display at the assembly hall, so we recommend those who are interested in learning more about the historical significance of this district to stop by and take a look.
Dahe Japanese Cuisine After enjoying a cultural feast at TaipeiEYE, may we suggest you trying out this authentic Japanese restaurant favored by many Taipei business executives which is located on Jinzhou Street not far from Taiwan Cement Building. With its authentic flavor, Dahe has conquered the picky palates of nearby Japanese companies' employees and Japanese customers. Even the wealthiest Taiwanese business tycoon Wang Yung-ching could not resist the good taste it offers. At Dahe, you are greeted by energetic and experienced waitresses. The restaurant does not boast of fancy decoration, but its chefs are all well-seasoned culinary professionals. Whether you choose from its teishoku (set course meal) menu or À la carte, you will surely be surprised at the exquisite authentic flavor that is made with traditional simplicity.
Sunrise International Records Founded by Lin Min-san and his wife Zhang Bi, Sunrise International Records is located right across Mackay Memorial Hospital. This record store is a treasure chest full of traditional local music for many Taiwanese music enthusiasts. Passionate about music, Mr. Lin was originally a speaker commercial agent who listened to a lot of
music due to his profession. Not surprisingly, that was the reason that propelled him into the world of music. On the 2nd floor of Sunrise Records is an impressive collection of classical music CDs. In this store, all you have to do is ask, and the owner will find whatever the CD label you are looking for in no time. Sunrise International Records is legendary in Taiwanese music history. It used to exclusively represent mainstream big record companies such as Polygram and Philips. Moreover, it held authorized distribution rights from many recognized independent music labels all over the world. Besides classical music, Sunrise is also an ardent advocate of traditional folk songs. Mr Lin, who wished to promote Taiwanese music internationally, went as far as Japan and the Czech Republic to negotiate with renowned philharmonic orchestras and had them perform masterpieces by Taiwanese composers. Thus, he propelled Taiwanese composers onto the international stage and raised their names' visibility. Sunrise Records is also a pioneer in rearranging the classic Taiwanese pieces of famous composers, such as Deng Yu-xian, Yang San-lang, and Zhou Tian-wang. It symphonized their popular songs and published their musical score sheets and notations which became valuable reference data for many Taiwan educational institutions. Many Taiwanese famous singers of the previous generation, such as Lee Jing-mei, Wu Jing-xian, and Kong Lan-xun all had their classic records produced by Sunrise. Interestingly, Sunrise Records had also involved in pop music. It signed the then very popular pop song singer Johnny Yin, who owed great part of his success in popular folk music to Sunrise Records. Because of its location right across the road from Mackay Memorial Hospital, Sunrise Records owns a great number of loyal customers who are medical doctors. These highly educated elites of Taiwanese society are often fervent supporters of the opposition. It is no surprise that the pro-Taiwanese Sunrise Records have the support of these doctors and intellectuals who believe in the value of non-mainstream media. During the authoritarian era, Sunrise Records had been harassed and persecuted by the government because it chose to play Taiwanese folk songs in the store when those were banned. In recent years, Sunrise Records still works hard to promote classical music, and it has never forgotten that universal truth: "music brings happiness to everyone". 31
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In response to the emerging demand, international-class hotels, such as the Landis Taipei Hotel, Hotel Royal Taipei and Lai Lai Sheraton Hotel inaugurated their businesses one after another. The early 1990s saw the booming and the pinnacle of the hotel industry. Five-star hotels thrived and the prosperity attracted many international hotel franchises to Taiwan, such as the Regent International Hotels, Sheraton Taipei Hotel, Grand Hyatt Taipei, Shangri-La Hotel and the Westin Taipei. In this area, you may find time-honored hotels such as the Ambassador Hotel, international boutique hotels like Regent Taipei, and Japanese-style hotels such as the Hotel Royal Taipei and the Okura Prestige Taipei. With the clustering effect brought by these hotel franchises, their surrounding areas have become a magnet attracting many unique executive bars and lounges to establish there. Interestingly, almost all the large hotels gathered on the east side of Zhongshan North Road. The luxurious ambience of the east side is quite different from the relatively fresh, cultural, and designer oriented west side. Since the connecting transportation to the airport is extremely convenient on this road, many tourists prefer to find accommodation in this area. Travelers can choose to stay in the boutique hotel, sit by the window to take an afternoon tea, look at all the dynamic movement on the sweet-gum tree lined boulevard and breathe in the unique gracious atmosphere in Greater Zhongshan area.
Ln. 59, Sec. 2, Zhongshan N. Rd
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After the conclusion of Korean War, the United States military advisory group, press corps, and aid group arrived in Taiwan. In order to provide these foreign guests with decent accommodation, the government decided to build the Grand Hotel at the original site of Yuanshan Grand Shrine. This majestic hotel reveals its unique extraordinary style, making it the landmark of Taipei and the premium sightseeing place in Taiwan. In the 1960s, the government announced the implementation of the Act of Encouragement of Investment, incorporating international hotels as one of the incentive industries, and subsequently contributed to the successive opening of large hotels on Zhongshan North Road. Thus Taiwan welcomed the arrival of international large-scale hotels, such as the United Hotel Taipei, the Mandarina Crown Hotel, and the Ambassador Hotel.
took off, the bilateral trade between Taiwan and Japan prospered. Since then, there has been an increasing number of Japanese tourists coming into Taiwan.
1, Na njin
Existing from Sunrise International Records and heading south on Zhongshan North Road, you will find that the eastern side of the road is full of five-star hotels, high-end boutique stores and the like. The luxurious ambience pervades the entire boulevard, making people feel like walking on the Avenue des Champs-ÉlysÊes in Paris. Actually this is the trendy section of Zhongshan North Road, and its beautiful story starts right after the retrocession of Taiwan from the Japanese rule.
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shan N . Rd
The origins of five-star hotels in Taipei
Ln. 76, Sec. 2, Xin sheng N. Rd
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The Aesthetics of Boutique Consumerism on the Eastern Region of Greater Zhongshan
Ln. 65, Sec. 2, Zh ongshan N. Rd
Nanjing E. Rd., 1.The Okura Prestige Taipei 2.The Ambassador Hotel 3.Regent Taipei 4.Wakatake Sushi Restaurant 5.Dream of Hobbiton 6.Shin Leg Yuan Art Space 7.Linsen Park
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Aesthetics of boutique consumerism
With the thriving of tourism industry, boutique shops began to flourish around these five-star hotels by setting up stores after stores. Due to the accessibility of the location, this area has always been the first choice for establishing their operations in the Taiwanese market. Walking on section 2 of Zhongshan North Road, it is hard for anyone not to notice all the bilingual signboards in seemingly similar color scheme. Looking further down the road, you will find an endless stretch of famous fashion brands, such as Louis Vuitton, Shiatzy Chen, Gucci and so on. The focus lamps in display windows add glamour and clarity to those latest-style products, enabling the passersby to better appreciate their materials and texture. These brilliantly designed windows and well-arranged product displays are always potential customer magnets which catch people’s attention. Besides all the famous brands, such as Coach, YSL, Dunhill, Loewe and other expensive boutique shops surrounding Regent Taipei on Zhongshan North Road, quite a few second hand boutique stores like the well-known Japanese name Brand Off has also joined the party by setting up one of their premises here. In the underground floors of Regent Taipei, there are more options like Dior, Hermes, Chanel, Tiffany, Cartier, Prada and many 34
independent Taiwanese designer stores for the more serious shoppers to choose from. This congregation of the brands contributes to an immense power of consumption, and many people have had their very first boutique shopping experience from this area. Not giving way to foreign brand products, there are quite many outstanding Taiwanese local brand selections on Zhongshan North Road. For instance, Chang Yang Chen’s brand "Jen Shang" featuring Chinese-style design excels in delicate handcraft and the use of special fabrics to enhance the elegance and quality details. The other brand “iF” founded by a Taiwanese couple is popular in the fashion capital Paris. They are devoted advocates of their belief that design as well as the art of living should return to the minimalist aesthetics. As a result, they adopt the simple black and white French style and apply them onto clothes and daily commodities. One other Taiwanese brand “iRoo”, releases new items every week to satisfy metropolitan women’s need for affordable fashion in the city, enabling them to easily stay in line with the latest fashion. You may find famous international brands everywhere, but only exclusive Taiwanese design brands can offer high quality product with reasonable price. So why not make a smart choice by visiting one of those shops? This place is a holy ground and shopping paradise for shopper. It is also a sacred sanctuary for all those who worship brand names. Zhongshan North Road has been designated Chokushi Road, which meant that it was the main road that led worshippers to the Grand Shrine. A hundred years later, what we believe in is the pursuit of consumerism and fine boutique.
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Greater Zhongshan Anecdotes Ms. Hisako
Right before the third Gover nor-General Nogi Maresuke took his post, there had been an outbreak of cholera in Taiwan. That's why most of the Japanese government officials were not accompanied by their families. Nevertheless, the mother of GovernorGeneral Nogi Maresuke, Ms. Hisako wished to liberate Taiwanese women from the Chinese traditional footbinding practice and insisted on coming to Taiwan with her son. Unfortunately, two months later, she fell ill with malaria and passed away. Even on her deathbed she specifically requested to be buried in Taiwan, and was then interred in Sanbanqiao Cemetery. After the Nationalist government took over Taiwan, her tombstone was demolished and used as construction material for illegal makeshift buildings. It was then discovered by a Japanese tourist in 1981, who spent a great amount of money buying it back and sent back to Japan for safeguarding.
Sanbanqiao Cemetery Compared with the glamorous vanity world of the boutique shopping district, the eastern part of Zhongshan North Road actually has two relaxing green patches for citizens to breathe a little easier. From the rear gate of Regent Taipei heading towards the intersection of Nanjing East Road and Linsen North Road, we will come across the No. 14 Lin-sen Park and No.15 Kang-le Park just before we reach the famous Japanese style tiaotong (jodori or alley) area. These two parks are located near Shin Shin Department Store and Regent Taipei, which were in the Mihashichō administrative district during the Japanese colonial period. This area was a high-class burial zone for the Japanese people, but among the locals it was also called “Sanbanqiao”. According to the tradition, the Governor General would often stop by the cemetery and pay his respect to the deceased after he had made a formal ceremonial visit to the Grand Shrine. Back then, the place turned out so famous that it became a vernacular substitute for the word “death”. Used by the Taiwanese general public, “To go to Sanbanqiao” meant that some unfortunate soul has perished, deceased, or met his maker. It was even used as a curse word by telling someone to “go to Sanbanqiao”! Nevertheless, with the disappearance of the cemetery after the war, that interesting usage gradually came to a halt. During the Japanese colonial era, many senior government officials and business tycoons were buried in this cemetery. Akashi Motojiro, the seventh Governor-General of Taiwan, was the only governor to be buried here. Governor Akashi had chosen Taiwan to be his final resting place because he had a strong affection for the island. During his tenure, he made his rounds throughout the entire island and is perhaps best remembered for the contributions he made for Taiwan. He established Taiwan Power Company, laid the central coastal rail line, and ordered the construction of Central Cross-Island Highway. After he passed away, the successive governor-general Den Kenjiro constructed a torii (Japanese Shinto shrine gate) particularly in his honor in order to commemorate his contributions to Taiwan. What’s more, the mother of the third Governor-General Nogi Maresuke, Ms. Hisako was also buried in this cemetery.
Make-do military dependents village
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In 1949 as the Nationalist government moved to Taiwan, most of the military family dependents settled down temporarily in the former site of the cemetery. They had to overcome difficult living conditions by improvising and making use of the tombstones to build makeshift walls and foundations for their houses. In terms of administrative division, it is called Kang-le Village, and it had its unique characteristic military housing community style comprising of different ethnic groups from all over China. Nevertheless, the dwelling space for each individual is depressingly narrow and people lived in crude and primitive state, not to mention that the environment was also in a chaotic and unhealthy condition. Most people often called them “those who live in the tomb”. After undergoing several negotiations and resistance by the residents, the derelict community was finally demolished in 1997, and the land was transformed into a metropolitan park.
No. 14 Linsen Park and No. 15 Kangle Park Nowadays, the chaotic and filthy environment that haunted this place is no more. The visitors can enjoy a good view of greens from the park that is adopted and taken care of by Regent Taipei, which offers a place of relaxation in the trendy east side. Those historic figures that once rested here were moved and resettled in other parts of the city. Only two torii shrine gates remain, one small and one large, in the memory of those that once rested here. At the entrance to the park, you may find the statue of ancient Chinese patriot Yue Fei, a military general known for leading the defense forces of Southern Song against invaders and evolved into a standard epitome of loyalty in Chinese culture. Although his great achievements cannot be witnessed today, his loyal and sacrificing spirits are handed down to people nowadays.
Additional info: Dream of Hobbiton The story of loyalty is not only found in the park but also in the nearby Italian restaurant Dream of Hobbiton. The decoration of this restaurant loosely resembles the visual atmosphere in the film “The Lord of the Rings“. Dream of Hobbiton is a fivestory building featuring decorations mimicking different scenes in the film. It is not surprising to know that its owner is a fan of the movie. He dreamed of leading a life enjoying good food and wine just like the Hobbits and would like to share this experience with the diners that come to his restaurant. From the first to the fifth floor, you can relax in different theme environments that combine both Lord of the Ring and Bali experiences. Whether you choose to sit indoors or outdoors, you will have your own private space away from the hustle of the city. So come on down and be a happy Hobbit here.
Wakatake sushi restaurant Under the aforementioned special circumstances, this area has become an important location for the economic c o o p e r a t i o n b e t w e e n Ta i w a n a n d Japan over the years. Many Japanese businessmen prefer to seek lodging in this area simply because here is close to the Japanese government-planned tiaotong (jodori alleyways) area in the past, which still presents that strong Japanese ambience everywhere. Right behind Hotel Royal Taipei, there i s a J a p a n e s e re s t a u r a n t f a v o re d b y b u s i n e s s m e n c a l l e d Wa k a t a k e s u s h i restaurant. The fresh raw fish in the hands of its very professional chef have successfully conquered the taste buds of the office workers and business people in this area. This is another good choice to consider in addition to the five-star hotels. 37
Mackay Memorial Hosptial Shuanglian
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1.Chez Moi Cafe 2.Ici Cafe & Tea 3.Nichi Nich 4.Melange Café 5.R9 Café 6.Dots Café 7.ORANGE Café 8.L’arcobaleno
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We send out our special envoy Miss Nancy, who was born and raised in Nanxi commercial zone, into the field. She knows everything there is to know about shopping, eating, seeing and just about everything in Nanxi. We have invited her to share with us the three facets of Nanxi commercial zone. Let’s follow her as she guides us into experiencing different beauties of this place.
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Strolling, the best way to feel the beauty of the west bank
The west side of Zhongshan North Road is generally known as Nanxi commercial zone. Taking Shinkong Mitsukoshi Department Store Nanxi branch as the center, this commercial zone encompasses areas comprised of Section 2 of Zhongshan North Road, Chifeng Street, Minsheng West Road, and Changan West Road. There are many delightful surprises such as creative stores, excellent coffee shops, design studios, renovated historical heritage sites that are hidden in these alleyways of Nanxi area. This is where designers and literati congregate. Are you curious about how contemporary Taipei citizens incorporate culture and creativity into their daily lives while creating a fresh new lifestyle?
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Nanxi Cultural Creative Path: Creative Design and the Beauty of the Alleyways According to Miss Nancy
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9.Xiaoqi + g. 10.Mbmore 11.SPOT-Taipei Film House 12.Museum of Contemporary Art Taipei 13.Tsai Jui-Yueh Dance Research Institute 14.Zhongshan MRT linear park 15.Jinyu Gallery
16.The one 17.Qiaoqi Café 18.Bite 2 Eat 19.Galerie Bistro 20.Bon Bon Hair 21.223 hair salon 22.KD hair salon 23.Isisnail
24.Lovely Taiwan Shop 25.Earth Tree 26.Booday 27.Zakka club 28.61 note 29.LOOPY 30.DE STIJL 31.Wum 32.BACK TO BRITISH 33.’0416x1024 Life Shop 34.Bomb Metal & Fry Jewelry 35.Silver Work Studio 36.O’Ringo 37.PPaper 38.Garden City Publishers 39.Sienna 40.Rüskasa 41.Galoop 42.Xiaoqi
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How did today’s Nanxi commercial zone come to be? Keyword: IDĒE
Targeted exclusively at the young female consumers, IDĒE Fashion Department Store opened its doors back in 1995 when this was still largely a residential area. Today, there is still a large population of women who got their first 18th-birthday present, or bought cloths for their first job interview, or even had their first date here at IDĒE Department Store. Many services and ideas that we take for granted today at most department stores were first implemented by IDĒE. Some of those are still regarded as creative even today: refined boutique-ish lady’s restrooms, complimentary tea refreshment, doormen service (male staff welcoming customers at the entrance), and many other details that are thoughtful for female patrons. Therefore, it had become a shopping sanctuary for many young girls. IDĒE had also nourished the formation of a new generation of up-and-coming Taiwanese designers, such as Stephane Dou, Changlee Yugin, Carole Chang, among others. Its window decorations and display designs were full of creativity and originality. Even today, its influence on Nanxi commercial zone is still visible all over the place.
Creative Journey: Brunch → Greater Zhongshan Creative Aesthetics in the Alleys → Rising Stars of Cultural Creativity in Chifeng Street The brunch is a lifestyle In those days off work, Miss Nancy is a typical night owl, sleeping late and waking up early, thus having the habit to eat brunch. The “Chez Moi Cafe” opens at 7:30 in the morning and offers brunch all day long, so Miss Nancy will not miss it however late she wakes up. After entering the door, she cannot help smiling due to the cafe’s popularity and fragrant bread smell.
Life of small shops in alleys Centered on Zhongshan MRT station, Nanjing West Road Lane 25 is in the north while Nanjing West Road Lane 18 is in the south. These two lanes extend more small alleys which are Nancy’s most beautiful scenery. A large number of old apartments aged over twenty years are transformed into small shops with strong styles. New sprouts boom in the old time, while creativity and energy are fermenting.
The “Booday” is a clothing shop, bookstore, record store, publisher, coffee shop and art gallery. It is simple and refreshing, with the inner core of design sense, which appears in its decorations, merchandise, meals and atmosphere. The life philosophy of “every day is a good day” is implemented in the details of this cafe.
The “Lovely Taiwan Shop” sells all products handmade in Taiwan. It collects Taiwan’s best culture with some creative design, accompanied by creator’s creation idea and local story. The products have a price, while the sincerity is priceless.
The “Earth Tree” dedicated to fair trade s e l l s h a n d m a d e h a n d i c r a f t s f ro m t h e Third World, Oceania, Southeast Asia and Taiwan. It emphasizes natural materials and environment-friendly process. Purchasing clothes, fabric, bags and furnishings in this shop becomes many people’s support of friendly practice to the earth.
“The One” is a complex space that combines life aesthetics and healthy meals. Simple, beautiful and practical are the concepts of this shop. Its healthy meals are suitable for all ages. With the greenery outside the window, its carefully designed meals and dining utensils make people feel very relaxed.
The “Ici Cafe & Tea” is mainly in black and white colors, and is Miss Nancy’s choice when she wants something not too complicated. The only trouble is the name of the shop. “Hey, where are you?” “I’m in Ici (meaning here).” “Where?” “Here!” “Where is exactly here?”
Miss Nancy’s comment: These handicrafts are not merely decorations (or food) but also the beginning for you to pay attention to these social issues. Most importantly, the reciprocal relationship between producers and consumers is established from the moment of your purchase.
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Miss Nancy’s comment: When hanging around in the grocery store, you can find lovely mugs, touch the texture of glaze porcelain and see tiramisucolored bags. It gives you a good mood.
The “Zakka club” reveals the atmosphere of fairy tale from products inside the shop to the decorations outside. It exclusively sells life miscellaneous goods painted by Japanese illustrator Shinji Kato. Stainless mugs are printed with the picture of Little Red walking into the deep forest under the prying eyes of big wolf. Shallow cake pans are painted with the picture of Alice and Mad Hatter’s tea party. Even growing up, you still need to keep imagination.
Lying in a small alley, the “61 note” is not easy to be found and thus has a quiet world. This shop sells many design products from around the world, including stationery, tea sets, brushes and handmade glass cups neatly placed in a huge hive. Appreciating these wonderful objects takes Miss Nancy an afternoon.
Miss Nancy’s comment: The “Booday” and “The One” are completely different in style, but both uphold their own styles, from tangible space, products to intangible service and attitude. You can enjoy in the “Booday” today and experience oriental aesthetics in “The O n e ” t o m o r ro w. W h a t i s y o u r i d e a l lifestyle? Here is the preview of your ideal life.
The “Sienna” is a small shop related to leather-made products. The leather of great texture can be made into bags, leather cords, sandals, passport holders and key rings. The timeless charm of leather is not fancy but endurable. It is also Miss Nancy’s expectation of herself.
Chifeng Street famous for design Turning from the bustling roadway, you will find a small street of cultural creativity with the name “Chifeng Street.” This small street is close to the old station and pier. Dismantled parts are thus brought to Chifeng Street. You can see iron forging and shipbreaking everywhere. After urban regeneration, blacksmiths are gone. (If wanting to find blacksmiths, you have to go to Xingcheng Street near Shuanglian Market) Thermal energy is transmitted into the power of living art.
Turning from the bustling roadway, you will find a small street of cultural creativity with the name “Chifeng Street.” This small street is close to the old station and pier. Dismantled parts are thus brought to Chifeng Street. You can see iron forging and ship-breaking everywhere. After urban regeneration, blacksmiths are gone. (If wanting to find blacksmiths, you have to go to Xingcheng Street near Shuanglian Market) Thermal energy is transmitted into the power of living art.
Turing left from the “Nichi Nichi” and walking forward for ten steps, we arrive at the “Xiaoqi + g.” As an extension store of Xiaoqi plus gallery, it often holds mini exhibitions focusing on writers’ utensils. By introducing writers’ works, it leads you to acquire the knowledge of utensils.
The “Xiaoqi” has black words printed on the plain door curtain. Inside the large glass in the black are various utensils. It is composed of white space, warm wooden tables and arrangement with suitable distance. These dining utensils, tea sets, kitchenware and wine utensils look simple but bring a considerable sense of happiness.
The “MBmore” is a platform to promote the art of print painting. In addition to exhibiting different themes, it also sells cultural and creative products made with technique of print painting. If interested in print painting, you can join its learning workshop. You will have a sense of accomplishment when hanging your own print painting at home.
Miss Nancy’s comment: In the Nanxi commercial zone, shopping is not only a consumption behavior. It affirms shopkeepers’ practical attitude about ideal life and refers to expectations for future life. These small shops selling good life seem to escape from the routine life and step on the unknown trail. You know living in Taipei always makes people envy.
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The “LOOPY” is founded by two shopkeepers with mushroom hairstyle. Their shop is like them. Simple patterns always make people smile. As they are still students, this workshop is not a shop but a start of dream.
Hair is people’s second face Perhaps due to the legacy of the Japanese colonial period, hair salons in the Nanxi commercial zone are mostly in Japanese style. They remain low-key and delicate. Customers walking out of the salon do not have exaggerated style. Natural personal characteristics are the most popular style. In Taipei’s most competitive area of hair salons, all shops compete with each other in skill, price, decoration and style. The spatial aesthetics of these shops virtually establish the trend of hair style design.
The “DE STIJL” sells European and American antique jewelry of the 20th century, encouraging everyone to have an aesthetic experiment. The iron windows of the old apartment reflect the beauty of antique jewelry. The impacts of old and new industries and generations sparkle and create a unique charming temperament of Chifeng Street. Here is Miss Nancy’s secret base and will become yours.
Tour of taste: Nanxi commercial zone’s hair salon, clothing store, nail salon, accessories shop, shoe stores → SPOT-Taipei Film House Cultural and creative world pursues not only insistence on life details but also life taste and beautiful appearance. In addition to the pursuit of ideal life, people need hair, clothing, nail and shoes in reality. Therefore, on both sides of Zhongshan MRT station linear park, a large number of shop windows reflect a small world desiring for beauty. 44
For those who like fancy decoration, they certainly like the “PARTOUT” with lush wallpapers, crystal lamps, large mirrors and strong decorative art. The prominent blue “Bon Bon Hair” is spacious and elegant with hidden details, which satisfies your requirement for a low-key sense of design. The “223 hair salon” has a tender facade with association of French country style. Its 223-centimeter interior height symbolizes more innovation in a limited space. In contrast, the “KD hair salon” has a dark blue door similar to the British flag. The playground area next to the door shows its consideration for parents. The shopkeeper who loves Japanese comic book “One Piece” moves the whole series inside the shop.
Wearing clothes is not just to be beautiful
Located in Zhongshan District, the “wum” is a concept store by designers Stephane Dou and Chang Lee Yu-gin. It combines contemporary fashion and architectural aesthetics, such as aluminum ceilings, exposed duct and mirror-effect stainless steel. Their abstract brand style is presented through space, breaking the stereotype of an ordinary mall.
The “BACK TO BRITISH” also breaks the stereotype. In a British rock-n-roll style, this shop focuses on the concept of museum, displaying various European antique furniture. The shopkeeper uses mixed paintings to present a British style and avant-garde rock. It sells European antique clothes, as well as exclusive European and Japanese brands and handmade apparel. “Mixed combination” is leading the trend! 45
Greater Zhongshan Anecdotes Taiwanese hair salon
The “‘0416x1024 Life Shop” has a unique interesting style, mainly selling clothing with a strong hand-painted style. Different from other clothing stores nowadays, here does not sell fashion. Each T-shirt has its own story.
If you go to a hair salon in Taiwan, the stylist would ask you if you would like to wash the hair sitting down or lying down with your head on the basin. We strongly recommend you to try the seated method and experience this special hair washing approach in Taiwan. The stylist would take some shampoo and water in hand, mix them up on your hair and begin to wash until the hair could "stand up". What’s more, washing your hair this way usually gets you a shoulder massage service with perfect force. Many are hooked on this kind of services as they sit there watching personal TV in front of them while munching the snacks and drinks all prepared by the salon.
The “Silver Work Studio” also insists on handmade. Each silver work is in a limited amount. This handmade service attracts many loyal customers fascinated with silver works. The studio cares the earth’s future, emphasizes original design and pursues “sentimental business model.” It is more than just a silver jewelry shop. What can be done to the small fingernails? From 2D to 3D, the “isisnail” has elegant quality and delicate skills that attract so many women fond of beauty. In addition to nail painting, it also provides a variety of nail accessories, such as crystals and stickers. Nails become the most beautiful accessory.
Gadgets in hand The “Galoop” has a low-key appearance and might be missed easily. This is a clothing brand from Tainan, focusing more on cut than pattern. The secret of keeping up with fashion is never over-design.
Pushing the hammer door nab, the “Bomb Metal & Fry Jewelry” is a handmade brand specializing in accessories. From graphic design, metal mold, baked enamel to inlaid are all handmade. Its customized jewelry made of silhouette turns everyone into a big star. You can have different options here. 46
Men also need a pair of good shoes As the footwear industry is declining in Taiwan, the “O’Ringo” is still fighting for handmade leather shoes. It combines the experienced master’s skill and new age design. Whether you look for gentlemen-style Oxford shoes, less formal Derby shoes, historic Munch shoes or relaxed Loafer, choose a pair of good shoes because shoes are always a person’s best partner. 47
Art tour: Museum of Contemporary Art Taipei → special cafe and restaurant → design-related publishers → Tsai Jui-Yueh Dance Research Institute → Zhongshan MRT linear park Nuances between contemporary and modern ages The Museum of Contemporary Art Taipei was originally built as an elementary school during the Japanese colonial era. In the Republic age, it then became Taipei’s old city government office and later “Museum of Contemporary Art.” It can represent the best combination of art, historical site and technology. This museum with historic atmosphere displays modern avant-garde artifacts. The impact of contradictory elements leads to more possible thinking.
Art film in the mansion After a whole day journey, Miss Nancy walks in a white mansion. Some people gather together while some are having coffee. Do not misunderstand. Here is not somebody’s mansion; here is the “Spot-Taipei Film House,” a movie theater playing art films. A half century ago, it was U.S. ambassador’s residence, witnessing the change of Sino-U.S. relations. Today it is devoted to the promotion of movie culture and cultural and creative life. It often hosts film festival, creative market, lecture, exhibition and Zhongshan tour. The “Spot-Taipei” merges movie, art, culture, creativity, design and music, just as the center of the Nanxi commercial zone. It is also Miss Nancy’s first choice to see art films.
I want more than filling the stomach Walking out from the Museum of Contemporary Art, you may feel spiritually full but physically empty. The rising popular Melange Cafe has the balcony with wood flooring and large French windows, so that the warm light can naturally come in. The guests inside the cafe can chat and laugh at ease. Under the golden light, the strawberry cream muffins look shining. Red and big strawberries lie in a corner of the plate, and ice cream is in the process of melting, which makes people salivating. Muffins have crispy outside and hot inside, emitting slight aroma of flour and egg. Strawberries, ice cream and muffins are cut into small sizes and eaten together-- Miss Nancy is willing to wait in line for half an hour for this delicacy. But what Miss Nancy often goes is not merely Melange Cafe. The “R9 Cafe” is one she does not need to wait in line as well as another choice to eat honey toasts.
Miss Nancy’s comment: Although there is a large department store on Nanjing West Road, I just prefer those style small shops in alleys. These small shops change their window displays every day. They are not changed regularly once in three months or half year. The shopkeepers devote themselves to building up special stores that belong to themselves. What you are participating now is the present tense of these small shops. This scenery might disappear any time.
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The “Dots Cafe” is full of handmade charm from catering, tables, chairs, menu to groceries everywhere. Colored pencils and postcards on the table are offered for people to express their creativity. The shopkeeper and customers are immersed in the handmade joy together. The “ORANGE Cafe” converted from an old apartment always makes me feel as relaxed and comfortable as at home. Miss Nancy is determined to sit all large and small sofas made of different materials and choose the first one in her mind. If feeling very hungry, she will go to the “Bite 2 Eat,” an independent restaurant composed of glass, wood and metal. In the city’s concrete jungle, the appearance of the little wooden house fits the scenery. Its modern and concise Scandinavian dining environment corresponds with the neighboring “Rüskasa,” a brand of wooded furniture from Tainan. Between both shops is a small tree, which seems to indicate the connection between them: wood. It has chairs places by the white wall, neat design of lines and warm touching of wood. Perhaps you have felt a comfortable chair. All of the chairs in “Bite 2 Eat” are indeed from “Rüskasa.” The “Galerie Bistro” is a restaurant and coffee shop focusing on multinational cuisine. This old mansion built in the Japanese colonial era contains colonial color. Its French-style decorations, artifacts inside the surrounding space, and skylight of outdoor garden make here a dream restaurant for many girls. The “L’arcobaleno” is also Miss Nancy's favorite. Whenever feeling tired, she would like to order its afternoon tea time set. Large muffins are appropriate for two people. Sometimes she has her dinner here too. Its signature teriyaki crispy chicken is definitely her priority choice.
Where design people’s inspiration comes from The unique atmosphere of Greater Zhongshan attracts a large number of design-related publishers to settle here, such as PPAPER specializing in style design and Garden City Publishers specializing in professional books like architecture and photography. As a big fan, Miss Nancy must visit PPAPER Shop in the downstairs of the office. This shop sells not only a variety of design-related books but also life products with design sense. For her, here is a good place to stimulate inspiration. The “Garden City Publishers” is different from general bookstores, mainly focusing on professional books in the fields of architecture, photography, art and design. Its simple display way is the wisest design. Exhibitions or seminars are often held in the space downstairs.
Greenland in concrete jungle In a concrete jungle, the “Tsai Jui-Yueh Dance Research Institute” has Japanesestyle dormitory and large grassland, which becomes a rare landscape. This dance research institute commemorates the mother of Taiwanese modern dance--Tsai Jui-Yueh. Her half-century performance career is like a microcosm of Taiwan’s dance history. Despite experiencing the era of political turmoil, she still insisted her beloved dance. In the era of martial law, here was an art salon and a cradle cultivating many young modern dancers. These young dancers practicing hard in the dance studio reveal boundless hope on stage. It is time to go home by metro. Take a walk in Zhongshan MRT linear park decorated with images of bears in shower, snails on the wall and hen leading ducklings. These mosaic collage art seems like a boisterous zoo. Cold and gray metro generator room is painted with a treasury on the wall, which looks more lively. Normally quiet stereo robot turns into a life DJ after connected to MP3 and mobile phone. Here is people’s leisure space, promenade scattered with artifacts as well as lovers’ paradise.
Miss Nancy’s comment: Getting access to art, do we really have to go see an exhibition inside the building? This “museum without walls” brings art into the public space. Art is not necessarily inscrutable and can be life and routine. Successful public art, o p e n - a i r c a f e s , s h o p w i n d o w s a n d g r a ff i t i i n s t re e t c o r n e r s increase endless creativity to the Greater Zhongshan area. This area nurtures many design-concept creativity bases. This is my personal trip. Of course Nanxi commercial zone has more than these. The rest awaits you to explore in person. Miss Nancy just wants to say one thing: whatever they sell, the shops in the Nanxi commercial zone never forget to selling styles. A garment has a price, but the creativity to express oneself is priceless. A set of dishes has a price, but the imagination of wonderful life style is priceless! Therefore, when purchasing in the Nanxi commercial zone, you can always gain more and experience unique Taipei’s cultural and creative taste more.
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Travellers Handbooks
Japanese Tiaotong(jordori) Alley:
9.Kyotoya Eel Restaurant 1.Umeko 17.Zhongshan Market 10.Shang-Gen (Naosara) Japanese 18.Lin-tien Coopery 2.Aoba Homemade Cuisine 3.MinFu 19.Umeyashiki 11.Hizen-ya 4.Shuang Yuan 20.Zhongshan Presbyterian Church 12.Seoul BBQ House 5.Ji-jia-zhuang 6.Dazhong Restaurant 13.Coffee Sweet Xinxing N. Rd 7.Gloria Prince 14.The Island Café Junior High Ln. 137, Sec. 2, Zhongshan School 3 8.Hokang Juice 15.Milly Zakka Shop 16.Mounment Café
A beautiful Taiwanese-Japanese mix in the city
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d .R gN hen ins ,X c. 1
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Tian jin
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北路
Ln. 1 19
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林森
Chang ’a n E . Rd. L n. 32, Sec. 1 ,
Ln. 1
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ri
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In Do
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n N.
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Linse
an N
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Dori 10
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Cha ng’a n W.
Linsen Park
Sec. 1, Nanjing E. Rd.
MOCA Taipei
Taipei Main Station
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Linsen
njing
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1, Na
Ln. 1 9
Following the retreat of the Japanese colonial government, these Japanese restaurants had become secretive. The mentality and attitude of the society eventually turned opener. But it was not until the Japanese businessmen began investing in Taiwan and increased bilateral economic activities that the tiaotong area regained its vitality. It has become the most Japanese style area in Taipei. Ironically, because of this area's unique characteristics,
After the Republic Government was restored, it eliminated old Japanese road naming system and implemented Chinese names instead. On both east and west side of Linsen North Road are the most famous tiaotong areas. Deep Japanese feel and bustling streets, this is the part of the city that never sleeps.
Sec.
e Rd
In this area where Japanese people c o n g re g a t e , i t n a t u r a l l y a t t r a c t s m a n y Japanese restaurants to set foot here. This place is like a Japanese cuisine expo, where Kyoto's eel cuisine, Osaka's pancake, O k i n a w a ' s b i t t e r g o u rd d i s h e s f o r m a Japanese culinary kaleidoscope. This is a place where Taipei's citizens feel exotic yet familiar, and Japanese travelers feel at home.
Interestingly, Zhongshan North Road is n o t o n l y a n a re a n o t e d f o r b e i n g v e r y Japanese. It is also known for the Taiwanese restaurants that offer excellent traditional cuisine. Taiwanese cuisine had originated from Dadaocheng and expanded to Beitou, only to come back eventually to Zhongshan North Road. The very first Taiwanese cuisine restaurant, Chingye, opened its doors in Liu-taiotong (6th alley), which flamed the establishment of many other similar restaurants nearby. Competition in this business has elevated traditional Taiwanese household cooking into sophisticated banquet cuisine that still retains the flavor of home.
hengd
10 tiaotongs, which means "alley", were planned in the district. These Japanesestyle alleyways were deliberately designed to follow the urban planning of Kyoto. In the early days, privately owned wooden houses lined up on both sides of the alleys. Venturing into them, you will feel that authentic Japanese lifestyle where traditional wooden houses, izakayas (sake houses), and bars flourish.
Minsheng E. Rd
erotic businesses which were expelled from Beitou district, began infiltrating into these alleys.
Sec. 1, C
During the Japanese Showa and Taisho period, the region east of today's Zhongshan North Road, west of Xinsheng North Road, south of Nanjing East Road, and north of Civic Boulevard, all belonged to the administrative district of Taisho-cho. Its location was important due to its proximity to the Governor-general's office and the train station. It was also the residential area of high ranking government officials and merchants.
Civic
Blvd.
ing E
. Rd
Sec . 1, Z hong xiao W. R d
Huashan 1914 Creative Park Shandao Temple Station
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The past and present of the ten tiaotongs From Yi-tiaotong (1st alley) to Shi-tiaotong (10th alley), you can find in each one of them their unique charm. This area is beautiful by day and is even more so by night. Not only the sights are captivating, its stories past and present, are just as amazing. We recommend that travelers come to the Tiaotong area in the afternoon. Start your journey following the directions that we provide starting from Yi-tiaotong and going all the way through to Shi-tiaotong. In these well-planned checkered alleyways, experience all the paths, corners, and shops that are altogether a beautiful mix of Taiwanese and Japanese flavors.
Yi-tiaotong (First alley) Past During the Japanese colonial era, the NorthSouth railroad trunk line passed through here. As a result of the air pollution caused by the steam locomotives, this place was deemed not suitable for human dwelling. Thus the government turned it into a park, hoping to bring some green and quietness to the city. However in WWII, the allied forces mistakenly bombed the Yi-tiaotong area aiming originally for the train station. As a result, most houses of this area were destroyed. The majority of the houses we see today were reconstructed after the retrocession of power.
Present
Umeyashiki
The Umeyashiki Inn in Yixian Park used to be a high-class hotel run by the Japanese. Dr. Sun Yatsen, the founder of the Republic of China, stayed here during his visit to Taiwan. The inn was a standard Japanese style architecture. Renovated and well preserved, it was turned into Dr. Sun Yatsen Memorial House dedicated to his memory. The plum trees in the garden had given the inn its name. "Ume" in Japanese means "plum", while "yashiki" means "luxury hotel". There are a small bridge, pond, and rocks that add serenity to the whole picture. Every winter-spring time, the plum trees in this garden blossom between the busy Taipei Main Station and the bustling tiaotong area. This wooden Japanese architecture offers a different sight of the city's landscape.
The old Yi-tiaotong was expanded and turned into today's Civic Boulevard, which is the main artery connecting Taipei's east and west side. On the southwestern part of Civic Boulevard sits Umeyashiki, the hotel which Dr. Sun Yat-sen had lodged during his visits to Taiwan.
Er-tiaotong (Second Past This is the high-class residential area where wooden Japanese houses give out hints of its glamorous and wealthy past.
Present Today's Er-tiaotong is still mainly a residential area. In this alley, most of that Japanese style is preserved. Many of the residents who seek peaceful lifestyle have been drawn here by the tranquility it offers. In this community, we can visit the traditional handicraft stores, coffee houses, and grocery shops, which are all part of the beautiful Er-tiaotong.
The Island Cafe This coffee shop has a history of over 90 years. It was originally the residence of Japanese photographer Sasaki Hachijiro. A reutilization project began after architect Zhong Yong-nan had taken over the house. He preserved the traditional Japanese 2-story facade and incorporated a small patio on the second floor. The original ceiling was dismantled exposing the wood beams, thus giving a sense of history to the space. Skylights were installed on the first floor illuminating the once dark courtyard. The first floor is used as a coffee shop, while the second floor is architect Zhong's studio. This oldhouse-turned-coffee-shop is not only an urban landscape but also an interactive platform for people. We recommend the travelers to come down here and have a cup of coffee while visiting this 90 year-old friend.
Greater Zhongshan Anecdotes Dr. Sun Yat-sen’s four visits to Taiwan Owing to the visits of the founder of the Republic of China, Dr. Sun Yat-sen, the district was named "Zhongshan". Actually in addition to his stay in Umeyashiki Inn during his second trip to Taiwan in 1913, he had also visited in 1900, 1918 and 1924 respectively. Nevertheless, he did not come ashore on his last visit but had stayed on the ship at Keelung harbor, making it the mysterious fourth visit.
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Seoul BBQ House Seoul BBQ is a 40 year-old Korean restaurant located across the street from the coffee house. Due to its proximity to the Chengzhong area and Zhongshan North Road, many prominent political figures such as premiers and presidents are among its guests. Different from regular Korean BBQ, the grill used by this restaurant are all imported from Germany. These grills are especially designed to retain all that delicious meat juice while cooking. 55
Milly Zakka Shop Sitting across from the coffee shop is Milly Zakka Shop run by an illustrator couple. The house itself is more than 60 years old. Its owner used recycled materials, such as reprocessed wood, old windows, old floorboards to recreate with his originality this small shop that is full of surprises. The old house's first floor displays countless merchandise that the owner brings back from Japan. There are also handicraft utensils and small things, such as cards, handbags, and other everyday objects from Taiwan. Travelers can discover many details in life from the unscheduled exhibitions held on the second floor of the shop.
Coffee Sweet Taipei is a romantic city full of independent coffee houses. There are many professionals and amateurs who share their passion for coffee. These are the people who provide us with a cup of the best brew money can buy. Hidden in Ertiaotong's alleyways, these coffee shops are for the real coffee lovers to find. This shop roasts its own coffee beans and makes every cup of the coffee by siphon. The owner, Mr. Gao, is one of the best siphon coffee brewers who wants nothing but the high quality. The shop offers a limited number of 26 cups of siphon coffee a day. So if you are a coffee lover, stop by to taste this special cup of coffee that makes this shop proud.
San-tiaotong (Third alley) Past During the Japanese colonial era, Santiaotong has a high concentration of Japanese d o r m i t o r i e s . A f t e r t h e w a r, t h e re p u b l i c gover nment converted these houses into dormitories for public workers. Eventually these housing units got run-down with time and were subsequently remodeled. It became known as the "doctor's street" since many prominent Taiwanese doctors had lived in this area. There were many antique shops between Santiaotong and Si-tiaotong. There was also an old Japanese restaurant called Tsutenkaku which has offered authentic Japanese food for more than thirty years.
Present Today's San-tiaotong is populated by highrise buildings. However in the alleyways, it still remains as a residential area where a couple of laundry shops and other small commercial establishments randomly sit in this quiet area.
Si-tiaotong (Fourth alley) Past This was once the financial district during the Japanese colonial era. The majority of high government officials, chairmen and general managers of big banking establishments lived here.
Present Today in Si-tiaotong, important banks and commercial premises in Taipei still choose to congregate here. Many retired bank employees also choose to live in this area's alleyways where it is peaceful.
Zhongshan Presbyterian Church
Z h o n g s h a n P re s b y t e r i a n C h u rc h a t t h e intersection of Linsen North Road and Changan East Road was originally the Taishocho Anglican Church. It was founded by a Japanese missionary for Japanese and Taiwanese Christians to use as a place of worship. Famed for its classically elegant Gothic styling, many antiques from the Japanese period have been retained, such as the old organ and baptismal font. The bell tower on its left side is still beautiful. Once in a while passersby can hear the chanting of hymns coming from the church. Today, the site of an old Japanese kindergarten is still standing in an alley to the south of the church.
Kyotoya Eel Restaurant In the alleyways between Si-tiaotong and Wu-tiaotong sits a Japanese restaurant specializing in eel called Kyotoya. The restaurant uses only the best Taiwanese eels, which are blanched with stock before being grilled. It is then coated with a special sauce which makes it look dark from the outside but still soft and juicy inside. That's why it has earned a large group of dedicated fans.
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Hokang Juice
Wu-tiaotong (Fifth alley) Past Wu-tiaotong was also the residential area for Japanese high-ranking officials of the government.
Present After the WWII, old dormitories were subsequently turned into high-rise buildings. On present day Wu-tiaotong is both commercial and residential area where the main businesses are clubs or pubs. The vitality of Wu-tiaotong is obvious from all the bars, sake houses, gastronomic and entertainment
Liu-tiaotong (Sixth alley) Past Liu-tiaotong was also the residential area for Japanese high-ranking officials. After Sitiaotong, it is the widest and busiest among all tiaotongs.
Present I n t h i s a re a , t h e re a re s e v e r a l f a m o u s restaurants, as well as Karaoke houses and clubs. The adult entertainment industry is progressively expanding towards Shi-tiaotong from here. Many Taiwanese restaurants are concentrated in this area. The well-known restaurants have had their beginning in this place. If you want to try the most authentic Taiwanese flavor, come to Liu-tiaotong.
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Dragon Restaurant This restaurant is famous for its Peking duck and Cantonese cuisine. It is so popular that reservations must be made several days beforehand. The interior is decorated like a palace and the flamboyant huge red sign outside makes it hard to miss. Just do not forget to make a reservation before you head down there.
Dazhong Restaurant There is a simple but popular Taiwanese restaurant in Liu-tiaotong that has captivated the stomach of many Taiwanese locals. It is always jam-packed with people who like to have a pint of beer with fried rice, pan-fried fish, stir-fried vegetables, and soups. The reason of its popularity besides good taste is its very friendly prices.
Amidst all the restaurants and entertainment places in Liu-tiaotong, there is a dose of healthiness in the form of a juice shop. The owner makes healthy and tasty vegetable and fruit juice with her own recipe aimed to replenish the vitamins and fibers that modern men's diet lacks. Her vegetable juice rejuvenates and helps digestion. They are especially popular among those who had a little too much to drink since these vegetable juices help relieve the symptoms of hangover.
Chi-tiaotong (Seventh alley) Past This was also a commercial and residential area. The famous Japanese restaurant Hizen-ya and the well-known Tien-chin Hotel were all located in this area. Hizen-ya has several decades of history, and it was originally called Osho. After WWII, some Japanese people who miss the flavors of Japan opened Hizen-ya. It was so popular that every lunch and dinner hour there is always a long line of customers.
Present Chi-tiaotong is perhaps best known for that sweet smell of grilled eel. The most notable restaurant is Hizen-ya which lures hungry eaters with its white smoke of grilled eels.
Hizen-ya
The restaurant was named after the owner's hometown in Japan. It is already many decades old. The wooden tables and the crowd that pack the restaurant make it look just like any food place in Japan. Although the waiting line in front of the store is always long, you do not have to worry about taking too long. The efficiency of the kitchen will let you taste that succulent grilled eel in no time.
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Ba-tiaotong (Eighth alley) Past Ba-tiaotong's alleyways may be narrow, but many restaurants and some clinics with long histories gathered here.
Present There are many small pubs and coffee shops in Ba-tiaotong, as well as the more popular tastes such as traditional snack foods which the locals just cannot get enough of. Batiaotong at night is very different from daytime as it is lit by mesmerizing signs and populated by escorts.
Shang-Gen (Naosara) Japanese Homemade Cuisine This cozy restaurant in Ba-tiaotong was established by Mr. Wang Shang-gen, who is half Taiwanese and half Japanese. Mr. Wang had spent many years in Japan learning how to make udon noodles. The restaurant has been around for more than 30 years. Its simple decoration and Japanese language menu are no problem for customers who love the food it serves. Reminder: Can you read the Japanese menu? No need to worry! The owner has added pictures to their menu, or you can just ask!
Additional info: Historic places and traditional flavor hidden in the tiaotong (Jodori in Japanese) alleys F ro m S i - t i a o t o n g ( F o u r t h a l l e y ) o n C h a n g a n E a s t R o a d , h e a d w e s t b y g o i n g t h ro u g h Zhongshan North Road, you will find a baroque style historic coffee shop on the southwestern
side of the street called Monument. Besides the Island CafĂŠ on Er-tiaotong (Second alley), this is another coffee shop renovated from old buildings. With a history of more than 80 years, the building is even more charming surrounded by that sweet aroma of roasted coffee beans. Travelers can sit on the second floor next to the windows and have a good street view
of Zhongshan North Road. Right next to the old building is Lin-tien Coopery which enjoys a
good reputation for its sturdy and beautiful buckets. The mottled signboard seems to tell the long history behind this store. Its handmade durable buckets carefully crafted from cypress are particularly precious and of high value in the modern industrialized society.
Kitty-cor ner to the old house is Zhongshan Market, which was established during the reign of Japanese Emperor Showa, sells all kinds of fresh vegetables and fruit as well as
Jiou-tiaotong (Ninth alley)
delicatessens. This place is the common memory shared by many citizens in Taipei. There is
Shi-tiaotong (Tenth alley)
Past The more low-key Jiou-tiaotong was not directly connected to Zhongshan North Road. This area was the most secretive among the ten, where many izakayas (sake house) were hidden.
Present This area is almost deserted during daytime. However when night falls, exclusive "members only" clubs and karaoke joints turn on their neon signs. These "special" businesses add even more mystery to this already enigmatic zone. 60
also a delicious Cantonese-style BBQ restaurant on Zhongshan North Road called Shuang
Yuan. It offers assorted delicacies, such as broiled pork, braised meat, roast duck, sausage,
and snacks. This home-style flavor has not changed for many decades. So why not buy some snacks to enjoy on the road? They will vitalize your body and mind while walking around this
Shi-tiaotong is today's Nanjing East Road. It is full of 24-hour businesses and shops. Along this road, you can see a lot of Japanese shops, okonomiyaki (Japanese pancake) and yakiniku (Japanese BBQ) restaurants. They all offer Japanese language menus and are decorated with authentic Japanese style deco. It is not surprising to see Japanese people coming to all these shops and restaurants for a little taste of their home.
area.
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Greater Zhongshan
Travellers Handbooks
Delicious Special Supplement: Liu-tiaotong's Taiwanese Cuisine Do you find it hard to forget that delicious taste of Taiwanese food after visiting all ten alleys?
What is Taiwanese Cuisine? Taiwanese cuisine has incorporated elements of early aboriginal, hakka immigrant, minnan, and Japanese cuisine. Later it has also taken in the Chinese cuisine and banquet style cuisine. All those elements blended into one unique culinary style called the Taiwanese. The concept of Taiwanese cuisine had first taken shape in the 1980s with the Taiwanese economic boom. The society in general was seeking financial progress. Most business people eat out instead of going home for their meals. Eventually these businessmen who always seal business deals on a restaurant table begin to miss the flavor of home. Taiwanese cuisine then became a popular choice for these people. Taiwanese food restaurants first concentrated in the nearby Dadaocheng area and expanded as far as Beitou hot spring area. Then because of the curfew during martial law period, the cluster finally shifted back to the tiaotong area around Zhongshan North Road. In 1964, the very first Taiwanese food restaurant Aoba opened in Liu-tiaotong, attracting merchants and travelers from all places. The next year, Umeko Restaurant inaugurated on the same street, followed by Ji-jia-zhuang Restaurant later. Then in 1977, Shin Yeh Restaurant opened its doors in the nearby Chingguang Market on Shuangcheng Street. Over the years, other well-known restaurants such as Ming-fu and Gloria Prince Hotel's Chiou Hwa restaurant joined the competition in Greater Zhongshan area. They all speak the same culinary language and share a common culture which is Taiwanese cuisine. Taiwanese dishes have undergone extensive improvements and refinement in the hands of these restaurants. They have successfully elevated Taiwanese cuisine to the same level as the other eight major Chinese regional cuisines. Taiwanese cuisine focuses on freshness of ingredients, speed, and light seasoning. Today, the Greater Zhongshan area is a treasure chest full of excellent Taiwanese restaurants. We have selected 23 dishes to share with our readers, from appetizers, main courses, fried side dishes, to desserts. After this, you will surprise your friends by being a connoisseur in Taiwanese dishes and restaurants.
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Greater Zhongshan
Travellers Handbooks
Recommended appetizers: chicken roll, deep-fried shrimp meat ball, Taiwanese style sausage, dried mullet roe, tender poached chicken, and variously colored abalone in 5-flavor sauce.
Ji-juan (chicken roll) For those who love chicken, bear in mind that in fact, the chicken roll contains absolutely no chicken meat. The name in Taiwanese Minnan dialect means literally to wrap up leftovers. The pronunciation of “surplus” or “leftover” in Taiwanese Minnan dialect is similar to that of “chicken,” so the food was then mistakenly known as “chicken roll” afterwards. It often appears on the table after the Chinese New Year, since the festivities always produce leftover food ingredients. People would wrap the leftovers with tofu skins and deep-fry them.
Xia-tzao
(deep-fried shrimp meat ball)
Of course, today the chicken rolls do not use leftovers but instead the best pork marinated in sauce for one day. Then onion, starch, flour, and spices are added to the mixture and wrapped with thin tofu skin to be deep-fried. It is often served with pickled cucumber and a special sauce made of soy sauce, vinegar, and ketchup. This appetizer certainly opens your appetite.
Besides ji-juan, xia-tzao is also a popular appetizer. This elaborate dish's main ingredient is shrimps, and they must be fresh. Chopped shrimps are mixed with ground pork meat, fish paste, chopped red onions and water chestnut. The mixture is then dredged in either flour, corn starch, or sweet potato starch and deep-fried till crispy. If traditional xia-tzao is what you look for, then these Taiwanese restaurants will not disappoint you.
Wu-yu-zi (dried mullet roe) Taiwanese people call the mullet fish a trustworthy fish since the schools of mullets never fail to show up in the Taiwan Strait every winter. The most coveted part of a mullet is its roe. After being taken out of the fish in whole, it is coated with salt and sun-dried. The entire process takes about a couple of months and by the time of Chinese New Year, the finalized wu-yu-zi would be ready for the tables. Traditionally, the wu-yu-zi is prepared by applying a coat of rice wine on the exterior first, and then slowly roasted on charcoal until it is crispy on the outside and still moist and soft on the inside. Then it is cut into thin slices and served with slices of fresh white radish. This is considered the perfect combination for most gourmets. If you happen to be in Taiwan during winter and is financially comfortable, it is strongly recommended that you try this delicacy. 64
Xiang-chang
(Taiwanese style sausage) Taiwanese style sausage is seen almost everywhere. It is so popular and versatile that it appears on tables in any occasion. Either in the homes of the common folks or on the banquets of the rich and powerful, xiang-chang is always there for dinner parties or New Year feasts. The sausage is an ancient method of food preservation. Now a great variety is found all over the world in Italy, Spain, France, Germany, and many other countries. The secret to an excellent Taiwanese xiang-chang is sugar. In the early days, sugar was only affordable for well off households, so it also represented social status. When making xiang-chang, sugar is added to give it that balanced sweet and salty taste that people love. In Taiwan, it is customary to eat xiang-chang with slices of raw garlic. We recommend substituting fresh garlic with leek for those who abhor the strong flavor of raw garlic.
Bai-chieh-ji
(tender poached chicken)
Chicken was regarded as a valuable dish that would only be served in Chinese New Year. People used to slaughter chickens as offerings of gratitude for the gods in appreciation for a whole year's bountiful harvest. The best choice among chickens are the free range ones. The chicken is cooked in its entirety in hot water with few or none seasoning involved in order to savor the chicken's natural flavor. It is usually cooled before cutting into pieces and served as it is. If you prefer a dipping sauce the restaurant will also provide chili soy sauce to go with the chicken.
Wu-wei-jiou-kong
(variously colored abalone in 5-flavor sauce))
In the past, this mollusk is an expensive ingredient for food. It is also called the "Taiwanese abalone". The key to this dish's success lies in the unique 5-flavor sauce which is sweet, sour, salty, spicy, and smells flavorful. The abalones are steamed and chilled in ice. It is simple yet savory which is perfect as a summertime starter. The quantity of this dish depends on the number of guests. Individual orders can be placed too according to specific needs.
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Greater Zhongshan
Travellers Handbooks
Recommended main courses: braised Chinese cabbage with dried fish, stewed pig feet with peanuts, salt water goose, red sea crab with glutinous rice, and sesame oil chicken and pig kidney.
Bian-yu-bai-cai
(braised Chinese cabbage with dried fish) This traditional dish had a quite humble beginning in the streets. People usually order a small one to accompany braised pork rice which is the perfect combination for most eaters. This dish is quite easy to prepare. Basically, this is a stew that uses Chinese cabbages from central Taiwan as main ingredient, adding along fish skin, pork rind, bean curd, dried fish, dried shrimp, shitake mushroom and so on. The key seasoning ingredient that is crucial to this dish's good taste is the dried fish. The sun-dried fish is first pan-fried and then finely chopped. It is mixed with all the other ingredients to be stirfried first and then stewed. That is how this simple yet delicious dish is completed.
Hwa-sheng-zhu-jiao
(stewed pig feet with peanuts) This dish is popular among women during post-birth recovery period. It is believed that peanuts and the high content of collagen and proteins in pig feet help mothers secrete milk and heal wounds faster. The combination of these two ingredients make it a popular dish and is offered almost anywhere, from the streets to restaurants to big hotels. An excellent hwa-sheng-zhu-jiao uses only pig feet of the best Taiwanese black pig. These black pigs are not fed with common feed; therefore, the meat is not gamy. The feet used are preferably from the front legs of young pigs. A good restaurant would thoroughly clean, depilate, and rid the excess fat of the feet. Do not forget to ask for a bowl of steamed rice and moist it with the juices of this dish, it will make everything taste like heaven.
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Yan-shuei-er-rou (salt water goose)
The Taiwanese diet consists mainly of Min cuisine. However, people from many different parts of southern China have all contributed to the formation of Taiwanese cuisine. Until the 1895 Japanese occupation, Min cuisine in Taiwan had always been confined to the south of the island around Tainan and its surrounding towns. Most of these towns were quite prosperous during the Ming and the Qing dynasties. The culinary legacies that the merchants left behind were mostly small dishes instead of banquet dishes. In the countryside, the geese are a main source of meat. Salty water goose is a simple dish just like its name suggests, goose cooked in salty water. The goose's entrails are also prepared as a side dish. It is consumed with finely shredded fresh ginger and thick soy sauce or sweet-spicy sauce.
Hong-xun-mi-gao
(red sea crab with glutinous rice) Hong-xun-mi-gao was considered a big dish in early Taiwanese society, since glutinous rice is an ingredient mainly used as offering for the gods and ancestors. First the rice is seasoned and steamed, so it would become soft and moist and quite flavorful. Since this dish is a staple course in wedding banquets, the selection of crabs must be extra meticulous. Most restaurants would pick female crabs full of eggs. This often symbolizes that the happy couple would bear a lot of children. Usually this dish comes out in a generous portion guaranteed to satisfy most diners. A reminder to all travelers who wish to try out this dish: finish the dish while it is hot, for glutinous rice tend to turn hard quickly once it cools down.
Ma-you-ji and Ma-you-yao-hwa (sesame oil chicken and pig kidney)
Sesame oil is a vital seasoning in traditional Taiwanese cuisine, and tasty sesame oil dishes are found all over the country. The best quality sesame oil is extracted from black sesame seeds which contains a higher level of unsaturated fatty acids and vitamin E, which is why Taiwanese people consider it an essential healthy food. Women always consume black sesame oil chicken soup to strengthen their health during post-birth recovery. Besides being a staple food for post-birth mothers, this dish is also extremely popular in winter. Almost all sesame oil dishes rely solely on the seasoning attributes of sesame oil. Whether it is sesame oil chicken, pig kidney, pig liver, pig heart, or vermicelli noodles, do not need extra seasoning for them to taste good. When having any of these dishes, remember not to add more salt, and finish them while they are hot. 67
Greater Zhongshan
Travellers Handbooks
Recommended deep-fried dishes: 8-pieces fried chicken, deep-fried shrimp croquette, and crispy pork intestines.
Zha-ba-kuai
(8-pieces fried chicken)
This dish was invented in the Japanese colonial period by Taiwanese restaurants. Originally, Taiwanese cuisine focused more on soups and dishes that are stir-fried or moist. Deep-fried cooking were not very popular until the Japanese began influencing the gastronomy, and also, deep-fried dishes go perfectly with alcoholic drinks. Somebody then took an entire chicken and cut it into 8 pieces (the pronunciation of "8" and "chicken" in Chinese are close to words that represent prosperity and good luck) and deepfried them. It has become extremely popular ever since. Best quality chicken, fresh oil, pepper and salt are the only ingredients needed for this simple and delicious treat. People often order this dish with ice-cold beer, a perfect match that will make you cry.
Jin-chien-xia-bing
(deep-fried shrimp croquette) This dish was also deeply influenced by the Japanese. It had originated from the Japanese korokke, which in turn had originated from the Portuguese dish "croquette". The Japanese korokke is made by mixing ground meat, seafood, or vegetables with mashed potato and deep fried. In Taiwan, the localized version uses mainly the shrimp for this dish. Culturally, jin-chien-xia-bing is a very interesting dish. It has connected Taiwanese cuisine with Japan and Portugal. Moreover, it has become inseparable with Japanese food and Fujian food. By the way, the best dipping sauce for this dish is ketchup, another western element added to this dish.
Tsuei-pi-da-chang (crispy pork intestines)
This dish has its origins from Cantonese cuisine. In the early days when most people lived in poverty, pig farming was one of the income sources for many farmers. Most of the entrails were regarded useless. However, for the farmers they were a delicacy. Deep-fried intestines turned out to be a delicious source of meat. Today, it is highly valued and sought after. A slight dip into pepper-salt will make you unable to stop! 68
Recommended staple food: f re s h u n f r i e d s p r i n g ro l l s a n d stir-fried rice vermicelli.
Run-bing (fresh
unfried spring rolls) This dish went from southern China to as far as today's Singapore, Philippines, and Indonesia a long time ago. In Taiwan, it is even more popular than its place of origin. From the north to the south, it is virtually found everywhere throughout the island anytime of the year. In ancient China, people used to gather five kinds of vegetables and spices as offering for Spring God. Eventually they evolved into ingredients, such as shredded pork, egg, bean curd and vegetables we commonly see today in run-bing. It is also a staple food consumed during the tomb-sweeping holidays. In Taiwan, there are different ingredients in run-bing depending on the region. For instance in Tainan, lima beans are added, while in Miaoli the hakka people like to add in pickled radish. If you are of Chinese ancestry and have never tried run-bing before, why not order one and savor the historical and ancestral significance of this dish while visiting a Taiwanese restaurant?
Chau-mi-fen
(stir-fried rice vermicelli) Chau-mi-fen is perhaps a specialty in all Taiwanese restaurants. It contains dried shrimp, shitake mushroom, shredded pork, and cabbage, which are stir-fried first. Then rice vermicelli is added to the mix and thoroughly stir-fried. This dish may just be the most representative dish in Taiwanese cuisine for most Taiwanese living abroad. Xinzhu is the city famous for the best rice vermicelli. Thanks to the winds that blow between September and December, it is essential in the making of the rice vermicelli. Good vermicelli is firm to the bite and does not break easily. It may be easy to prepare, but it is very difficult to make it right and tasty. The key is in fire control during cooking. It should come out moist but not mushy, flavorful but not salty. That delicate balance is perhaps what determines whether a Taiwanese restaurant deserves a thumbs-up.
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Greater Zhongshan
Travellers Handbooks
Recommended soups: squid and sea snail garlic pot, pineapple and bitter gourd chicken pot, pickled vegetables and pork stomach soup, and the Buddha's Delight.
Xian-cai-du-pian-tang
(pickled vegetables and pork stomach soup)
You-yu-luo-rou-suan-guo (squid and sea snail garlic pot)
This is a classic dish in most banquets and most traditional Taiwanese restaurants would have it on the menu. This is a dish that has been developed not long ago, since in the old days both squid and sea snail were hard to come by. However i n D a d a o c h e n g , w h e r e Ta i w a n e s e cuisine started off, it was easy to find those ingredients, for this place is the distribution center of imported goods from all over the world. People who frequent clubs or pubs often feel cold after drinking. Therefore, they need something hot to keep their body warm. Besides, it is also a very simple dish to prepare, and that's how this soup dish becomes ever so popular.
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Fong-li-ku-gua-ji-guo
(pineapple and bitter gourd chicken pot) Ta i w a n i s a m a j o r p r o d u c e r o f pineapples. In the early days, it was not easy to preserve food. Bean paste pickled pineapple was the solution to pineapple overproduction. It is made by putting salt, sugar, fermented beans, and pineapple in a container and left to repose for six months. The final product is consumed directly with congee or used for soup. Free range chicken must be used for this soup, then bitter gourd and beanpaste-pickled pineapple are added to the pot. It is cooked for hours to achieve a natural sweetness in the soup and the bitter gourd completely softened. The soup is slightly bitter and sweet, which is the taste that most connoisseurs love.
This is a classic Hakka dish. Pickled vegetables are indispensable in Hakka cuisine. In early farming communities, Hakka women planted mustard greens and pickled them for better preservation. Pig farmers often cook leftover pig entrails such as the stomach with these preserved vegetables, and the result is a pot of really savory soup. This pot of soup represents the perfect harmony between all ethnic groups that call this island home. This soup's delicious simplicity goes beyond all words and is certainly a must-try.
Fo-tiao-qiang
(literally the Buddha's Delight) Different from the previous soups, this one can be consumed both as a soup and a regular dish at the same time. Fo-tiao-qiang is probably one of the best known dishes originated from southern China. In Taiwan, it is usually the main character in all kinds of banquets. Complicated and time consuming, this soup's preparation re q u i re s e x p e r t i s e . I t i s r i c h i n ingredients and symbolizes nobility and exclusivity. The name suggests that this dish is so heavenly exquisite that even the Buddha cannot resist its lure. Usually Fo-tiao-qiang is served in an urn which contains a long list of ingredients: pig feet, ribs, taros, Chinese cabbages, pig stomach, bamboo shoots, pigeon eggs, c h e s t n u t s , s h i t a k e m u s h ro o m s , garlic, shark fin, dried shrimp, deepfried onion, mature hen, Jinhua ham, red dates, and many other expensive ingredients. It is slowly simmered on medium-low fire, thus extracting all the essences of the ingredients and blending them together. A tip for the gourmet travelers: call the restaurant and preorder this dish before heading down there.
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Greater Zhongshan
Travellers Handbooks
Recommended desserts: deep-fried taro cake and sweet rice cake.
Yu-tzao
(deep-fried taro cake) Yu-tzao is a snack popular in the countryside. It is also a representative Taiwanese small dish that combines sweet and salty flavors together. Taros are first peeled, steamed, and then mashed. After a light seasoning the paste is made into small round cakes and deep-fried. Salty duck eggs or dried pork floss are sometimes added to create a different version of this popular snack.
Tian-ma-shu
(mochi / sweet rice cake) Similar dietary customs and habits can be observed among Taiwanese aboriginal tribes, Hakka people, and Minnan people. One common snack share by all these different groups is the rice cake. The millet is used by the aboriginals, which has always been important to most aboriginal tribes. It is their main source of food and also an important offering for their gods. The making of this snack is time consuming and physically demanding. First the millet is separated from its husk, then steamed and poured into a giant mortar to be pounded into a thick dough. The dough is then cut into small bite-size pieces and enjoyed dipping in honey. The Hakka and the Minnan people on the other hand use glutinous rice instead of millet. Once the dough is cut into small pieces, they are coated with powder sugar and peanut powder. This is a perfect tea-time snack before or after meals.
Where can I try them?
We hope you are hungry after reading about these 23 classic Taiwanese dishes. Now let us recommend a few time-honored Taiwanese restaurants in Greater Zhongshan area. Starting from the north, there is Shin Yeh Restaurant on Shuangcheng Street in Chingguang Market. A little to the south in the alleyways next to Zhongshan North Road is Ming-fu Restaurant. In the tiaotong area where you are now, there are several restaurants, including Aoba, Umeko, and Ji-jia-zhuang all located on Liu-tiaotong. All these restaurants have stood to the test of time and are all very popular among both locals and foreigners alike. All of their chefs are the best of the best in culinary art. So just follow this manual and order away! We guarantee you will not be dissapointed! 72
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1.Taipei Artist Village 2.Huashan 1914 Creative Park 3.Kuanghua Market 4.Yangcheng Xiaoguan (Yangcheng restaurant) 5.Fuhang Dou Jiang (Fuhang soy milk) 6.Japanese dormitory on Qidong Street
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The creative park is located at the rim of Greater Zhongshan area, which was known as Kabayamacho during the Japanese colonial era and named after the first Governor-General of Taiwan Kabayama Sukenori. The area's boundaries are marked by Civic Boulevard, Zhongxiao East Road and Bade Road. Underneath the nearby Xinsheng overpass was once the irrigation ditches of Liugongjun water system, and this is the spot where the development of old Taipei City had stopped. The slant Bade Road played the role of the main driveway that connected Taipei City with Keelung. Along the way were mostly dormitories once used by government officials, and some of these wooden dormitory complexes are still standing on Qidong Street today. Taihoku College of Commerce (present College of Social Sciences of National Taiwan University) and Medical School of Taiwan Government-general (present College of Medicine of National Taiwan University) were also established in the same area.
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Without a front gate nor perimeter fence, the creative park is an open space that welcomes all with free entrance, and it also provides contented comfort in comparison with the hustle and bustle of the busy streets around it. Together with the nearby art village and electronic appliances shopping district, the culture, creativity, art, historic sites, and independent lifestyle all converge in one area to illustrate the living attitudes of contemporary young generation. 74
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Free independent creative playground
Old brewing paradise Built in 1914, the creative park used to be the site of a private sake factory which was among Taiwan’s largest rice wine producers throughout the 1920’s. In 1922 the Japanese government nationalized the sake factory by setting up the Monopoly Bureau of the Taiwan Governor's Office. Due to its proximity to the railway nearby, the rice wine could be delivered in no time to Jiou-tiaotong (Ninth alley) where Japanese people loved to gather for a drink. It became the largest winery in Taiwan at the time. After the Nationalist government took over Taiwan in 1945, the fruit wine it produced enjoyed an extremely popular reception, and thus thrust Taipei into the golden age of brewery, making it the wonderland of alcoholic beverage production. The factory architectural structures in the park are well-preserved, among which three of them have been designated as historical heritage sites due to their unique design and history, namely the Plum Wine Factory, the Smokestack, and the Tower. If you take a closer inspection at these structures, you will find that the buildings’ façades are decorated with banded pattern and the railings are slanted 45 degrees. All these elements indicate that they were under the influence of art deco, which was among western ideologies and knowledge that poured in during the Japanese Meiji Restoration. The heavy use of durable steel construction materials reflects Japan’s determination in establishing long term security measures. The brick hexagonal compound next to the park was completed in 1918. It used to be a camphor factory, and the hundred-year-old red bricks used for its brick walls were shipped here all the way from Beitou in the North.
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The history of its past can be found in every corner of the park. The applegreen brick wall on the corridor, the rivets on the walls, and narrow-step stairs in the factory all witnessed the development of the park over the years. Even the old trees climbing and grappling on the brick walls become a particular feature of the park.
The economic transformation that Taiwan underwent in 1987, and the polluted water source for the production of alcoholic beverages forced the whole winery to move to Linkou and consequently left the enormous plant in ruins. Thus, many dedicated art and culture personalities gathered to strive for a public artistic space which led to a public discussion about public space and arts. Eventually in 2001 the government designated Huashan as the head base of creative industry and in 2007 Taiwan Cultural-Creative Development Co., Ltd took over the management of the park and assigned different functions for each of the old factory buildings, namely stage, school, showcase displays, and creative platform. The strong aroma of the rice wine was replaced by abundant creative aesthetics, attracting cultural and literary professionals to use this place as their base, from which they gather and pass on the spirits of living art.
Legacy Taipei helps find the genuine touch of music—Landy Chang The for mer deputy gener al manager of R ock Records Co., Ltd. and founder of Magic Stone Music Co., Ltd., Landy Chang is a legendary figure. He had organized 6 consecutive rock concerts in the conservative 1980s. He was responsible for creating “Chinese rock” and successfully pushed it towards its pinnacle. Singers such as Faith Yang, Wu Bai and Chang Chen-yue who were influenced by this movement all carried vivid personal styles. He believed that music will only touch the heart of its audiences when it is inspired by life and felt by everyone in person. Therefore, he established Legacy Taipei in the park, offering all those independent music bands and singers a stage to perform the most genuine music from their hearts. “We have to name our lives, making it a meaningful and competitive form of existence.” He found out about that simple and down to earth nature of Taiwanese people and decided to promote “Simple
Life” as the theme of a new lifestyle in Taiwan. In 2006, he started to launch his Simple Life Festival in Huashan Creative Park. It provides designers with booths to showcase their design products, while offering performance stages for young people to show their creativity and invention. The main purpose is to convey the idea of a tranquil and lasting Taiwanese culture by means of music. Through such a promotional event, there will be more possibilities for the music market. This bi-annual Simple Life Festival has become a grand event in the Chinese community. There are always a significant number of local and overseas fans who share with each other their simple and fun lifestyle.
Trio Café brews the taste of living with wine—William Wang Trio Cafe’s founder and owner William Wang is perhaps the best sommelier and professional bartender in Taiwan. He started his professional career in gastronomy, working as an apprentice in Shaomei Ice Cream Company at a young age. Then he traveled to the United States to continue accumulating more experiences in life. After going through a harsh time working abroad, he eventually developed a strong and persistent character. As far as he is concerned, mixology is more than just mixing delicious drinks. There are always tons of stories to tell in the interaction between the mixologist and his guests. Just like wine tasting, excellent wine requires time to release its true flavor. Trio Café in the creative park is just like what he says, “We don’t have to compromise with reality just because aging is inevitable. People can give us all kinds of rules to obey, but we don’t necessarily need to believe them.” He chooses to share in his own way the true flavors of life with those who also share his vision. So come have a glass of cocktail and experience the taste of life.
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SPOT Huashan experiences the world through cinema—Hou Hsiao-Hsien Hou Hsiao-Hsien’s work generally deals with various aspects that faithfully reflect the reality of our society. Some of his works are recognized internationally and have received such honors as the Golden Lion from the Venice Film Festival and nomination of The Oscars for best foreign language Film. “After you complete the film house, the films will come.” He has devoted most of his times to the cultural development in Taiwan. In addition to establishing SPOT-Taipei Film House, he created SPOT Huashan as well with the objective of broadening the cinematographic knowledge of the next generation. A selection of innovative experimental films is screened on a regular basis, while an exhibition on the same film is held at the corridor to match the theme. The film house is aimed to inspire more open discussions and critical thinking, so it seeks collaboration from other facilities like Legacy Taipei to organized rock music film festivals and enhance more cooperation between institutions in all aspects. Whether through activities such as seminars on film makeup and musical films open to the general public, or in-depth speeches targeted to students and professionals of the film industry, people are able to broaden their horizons by watching movies and think about the future and environment of Taiwan while discovering the value of their existence. As the first large-scale cultural creative park in northern Taiwan, its every move is often considered benchmarks in the art industry as the cultural sector pays close attention to its activity planning and other affairs. All the sparks and imagination from all sectors collide here and create a mesmerizing kaleidoscope of Taipei. The diverse facets of Taipei appeal to cultural intellectuals of all ages. Now let’s take a look at their recommendations: 78
Flagship store of Wind Music International Corporation Integrates music into life through the five senses. It aims to help people recall the memories of this land with its collection of the most natural sounds
Legacy Taipei It does not matter if it’s the super bands or the small-scale groups on stage. Just enjoy that pure passion and movement of music.
CD Piazza
Alley Cat’s Pizza
This store is plain amazing. Anyone who comes here will find things from hi-tech electronic products to daily commodities. Are you looking for a gift for someone? You might just find the perfect present here.
Its hand-made Italian pizzas are a favorite among the young and the old. The restaurant’s comfortable sofas and dining space is suitable for family gatherings.
1914 Connection
The restaurant is full of old brass and iron furniture to match the diversity of Italian pasta and delicious dishes. Exhibition area:
A mixture of ethnic and trendy style blends harmoniously in this gift shop, which is the first place that specializes in contemporary local designers’ works.
VVG Thinking Vintage furniture, books and publication, gourmet foods, clothing, arts and rich culture coexist harmoniously in this single space. In the shop there is a soothing atmosphere that leads travelers into an imaginary world.
Drinks The interior space is filled with Hippie rock design elements which go amazingly well with the Yakitori (Japanese skewered chicken meat and entrails) served in the restaurant. This place is particularly suitable for those who think the night is still young coming out of a music festival.
Ayoi Taiwan Indigenous Specialty Boutique Surrounded by colorful patterns and totems, Ay o i c o m b i n e s c re a t i v i t y w i t h p r a c t i c a l appliances in life to show the children the original cultural features of Taiwan.
Al Cicchetto
libLAB In this bookstore you will find that all the books here were carefully hand-picked. There are a collection of good books on lifestyles, aesthetics, urban sector, culture and art, making it easy to discover different cultural perspectives in other countries.
SPOT Huashan Assorted highly experimental film works are open for free discussion and imagination. A one-day trip is barely enough to see them all.
Chingye-Shinleyuan Restaurant Taiwanese-style banquet dishes are prepared by following authentic traditional recipes and utilizing natural organic ingredients. The food served here will make you feel the appreciation for the land. 79
Japanese dormitory on Qidong Street On the quiet Qidong Street, a roll of Japanese-style housing complex called Saiwaicho Official Dormitory sits quietly amidst the bustle of the city. There are Bi'an (Chinese mythological beast which possesses the ability to determine good people and bad people) motif door knocks on the doors, and the Japanese style gardens inside the complex are the only remnants that remind people of their presence. For those who love old architectural structures, this is a must-visit location.
Guang Hua Shang Chang (Guang Hua Digital Plaza)
Greater Zhongshan Anecdotes
Additional info: Taipei Artist Village integrates arts with life Across from the grasslands of Huashan Creative Park, a yellow and white building stands quietly at the intersection of Tianjin Street and Beiping East Road. If Huashan is the cradle of Taiwan’s aestheticism, Taipei Artist Village would be the aesthetic platform that integrates multiple cultures from countries around the world. Carrying out the policy of art diplomacy, the village conducts an extensive artist exchange and residency program with various countries which bring in novel ideologies and imagination to the city. Artists from different countries gather here to create works based on everything within the boundaries of metropolitan Taipei. These artists live their lives, spend their leisure time, and create their art creation in the village. Every summer and winter the studio opens up to the public and travelers can take a very close look at the daily art creation and living environment of the artists, or even talk to the artists face to face. Though the art works in the village are inconspicuously low in profile, they are filled with inspiration hidden in every corner of the village. For instance, a world map drawn with boundless imagination, or a freehand sketch of wild plants on glass panes are all waiting for you to discover them. So pay this place a visit, meet the artists, and do not be shy to give them your warmest greeting. 80
Fuhang Soy Milk suggests new way to eat deep-fried cruller in thick roasted flatbread
Fuhang Soy Milk in Huashan Market attracts not only local residents but also many foreign tourists wanting to try its roasted flatbread and soy milk. A variety of breakfast choices on the signboard is so enticing that people want to try them all. If you are with a friend and want to order the deep-fried cruller in thick roasted flatbread, you may ask the owner to cut the cruller in half and put each part into separate roasted flatbreads. This way you would have more space in your stomach for trying other delicious snacks. This applies to all traditional breakfast joints around Taiwan. So do not be shy and just ask away out loud.
This place is a paradise for technophiles. There’s everything they’d hope to find, from smartphones, computers, to hard disks. As a matter of fact, it is very hard not to find what you are looking for in this plaza. However, this place is so packed with shops that you will need a good pair of shoes to walk through them all. You will also need a good bargaining strategy and precise judgments to fight back all those salesmen's sweet talks before finally getting a good deal for your target product.
Fuhang Dou Jiang (Fuhang soy milk) The popularity of this place is quite obvious when you see that very long line with no end. The musttry of this shop is Hou Shao-bing you-tiao (deepfried cruller in thick roasted flatbread). This gratifying and satisfying order will cheer you up for the day. Be warned, you need to get there as early as possible to avoid a long waiting line.
Ya n g c h e n g X i a o g u a n ( Ya n g c h e n g restaurant) This popular Cantonese restaurant has been around for more than 30 years. It inherited the good tastes of its predecessor Fong-lin Restaurant and passed down the tradition of serving the best but easy-onyour-wallet dishes in town. If you love traditional Chinese food, then it would be a sin to miss out on this restaurant! 81
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Chief Editor Han Liang-Lu Adviser Zhu Quan-Bin Executive Editor Yang Yu-Hsuan Text Editor Hong Shang-Ling Huang Jing-Fen Associate Art Director Lin Ling-Ning Lu Ming-Xi Deng Xu-Jing Lin Qiao-Ruo Chen Man-Ping Art Designer Lin Ling-Ning Japanese Translator Ming Zhi Workshop English Translator Shih Yi-Lun Photo courtesy Taipei Fine Arts Museum Formosa Vintage Museum Special thanks Liu Yi-Chang Yang-Zhao Zhong Yong-Nan Pusblisher Pumpkin
Publisher: Southvillage Ltd. Address: No. 10, Lane 80, Rd. Rd. Shi Da, Taipei City, Taiwan Tel： +886-2-8369-2963 Fax：+886-2-8369-5076 First edition: September 2013