大城中 人文歷史街區
2013 May
Historic Walks in Greater Chengzhong Area
畫報
人文歷史街區
Historic Walks in Greater Chengzhong Area Greater Chengzhong area encompasses the historic Chengzhong area and the vigorous Ximending shopping area. With abundant layers of history, Greater Chengzhong area offers glimpses into the past that spans three historical periods from the Qing dynasty, the Japanese colonial era to the Republic of China. You can have a closer look at the development of Taipei, carry out an archaeological journey, experience its folk life culture, and even enjoy the pleasure of treasure hunting between the old and the new.
41 North Gate
42 24 25
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9 23
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21 20
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Greater Chengzhong is packed with many characteristics, but sometimes too many choices can be troublesome for travelers, too. For that reason, we have prepared the gourmet map, the historical heritage map, the religious site map, the shopping map, and have also gathered some of the finest select stores in this user's guide for you. Whether you are an accomplished gourmet, or an architectural aficionado, or even a shopaholic, you can use this Greater Chengzhong pictorial guide as you see fit, so Have a good time!
Red House
44
MRT Ximen Station
46 14
5 43 11 12
32 31
27
50
Taiwan City God Temple
36 22
28
10
Zhongshan Hall
47 30
50
51
35 26
50
7
19
Greater Chengzhong is a center of good food and a treasure chest full of heritage s i t e s . I t i s k n o w n f o r h a v i n g m a n y t r a d itional religious centers and also for being a shopping paradise.
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3 2
49
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45
Presidential Office
Judicial Yuan
Xiaonanmen
Commoners' Gourmet
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
2
15
Dading Pork Soup
8
MRT Xiaonanmen Station
Laowangji Beef Noodle Chao Ji Pork and Vegetable Wonton Dongyi Pork Chop
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Chengdu Starfruit Ice
Olympia Foods
23
Huang’s stewed pork rice
Renji Jinling Plum Juice
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Nan Man Do honey cake
Snow King Ice Cream
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Simon Food
Xiaonanmen Fool’s Noodle
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Ay-Chung Flour-Rice Noodle
Maylin fruit shop
27
No-name oden
19
Yaroubian Traditional Goose Restaurant
28
Ah-tsai's Milkfish Place
20
Lau Tian Lu (Wu Chang St.)
29
Hong Yi crystal dumpling
21
Yang Ji peanuts and corn ice
30
Yung Lai Shian food and cured meat
Taipei Botanical Garden
Old Coffee Shops
Taiwan Main Station
MRT Taipei Main Station
Executive Yuan
40
39 38 National Taiwan Museum
5
MRT NTU Hospital Station
228 Peace Memorial Park
11
Top Coffee House
31
Fongda Café
32
Nanmei Coffee
12
Long's Shanghai Restaurant
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Li-Du Japanese Restaurant
14
Tian Cai Refreshment Saloon
15
Uncle John
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Mei Guan Yuan
34
Fuzhou Shinli Daya Restaurant
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Flower Lounge Restaurant
Old Tea Shops
37 East Gate
Liberty Square
South Gate
Café Astoria
Restaurants and Eateries
National Police Agency, Ministry of the Interior
Control Yuan
1
10
MRT Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall Station
MRT Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall Station
16
Fong Pu Tea Company
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Chuanxiang Tea House
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Ten Ren Tea Company
Historic Relics Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall
Religion 46
Taiwan City God Temple
47
Taipei Tianhou Temple
36
Zhongshan Hall
37
Taipei Guest House
38
National Taiwan Museum
48
Heng Tai Fung
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Land Bank of
49
Yuanling Street
Shopping
Taiwan Exhibition Hall
40
(shoe shop street)
Taiwan Chi Nam Presbyterian Church
50
41
North Gate
51
42
Futai Street Mansion
43
Taiwan Cooperative Bank
44
Red House
45
Xi Ben Yuan Temple
Nanmen Market
(Original Japanese: Nishi Honganji)
Chengzhong Market and Ladies Street Boai Road (Fabric Stores)
52
Boai Road (camera street)
53
Chongqing South Road (bookstores street)
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Historic Walks in Greater Chengzhong Area
人文歷史街區
畫報
Chengzhong Gourmet
G
reater Chengzhong has gone through several periods in history: the Imperial Qing Dynasty, the Japanese Colonial rule, and the Republic of China. The coming and going of the immigrants have created an authentic mixture of gastronomic culture in Greater Chengzhong: specialty noodle shops, nostalgic coffee shops, Japanese restaurants in Taiwanese style, Shanghai cuisine, Hong Kong style restaurants, old tea shops, inexpensive foods in markets loved by students and white collars, ice cream stores, finger liking snacks and assorted sweets. History has gathered a vast variety of great foods in Greater Chengzhong, and tasting these delicious treats is another wonderful way to get to know this place. We have selected the following shops that we strongly recommend to travelers. They vary in taste and price, but they all have one thing in common: generous portions and hefty ingredients that make them totally worth your every penny.
1.Dading Pork Soup There are t wo kinds of pork soup, the thick soup and the clear soup. At Dading, you get the healthier and lighter clear pork soup. The shop is best known for its generous por tions of ingredients in each ser ving of the famous soup. Its main ingredient, the starch coated pork is firm and juicy ever y bite, and combined with big chunks of white radish this inexpensive soup is loved by ever yone.
Commoners' Gourmet
2. Laowangji Beef Noodle
Ji Pork and 3. Chao Vegetable Wonton I t s re a l a n d a u t h e nt i c p o r k a n d vegetable wontons symbolize successful hometown flavors and p rov i d e a l te r n ati ve nu tr i o l o g y of dumplings.
It is the most popular shop on Taoyuan Street. This is a shop that has no sign but with its reputation. There are two huge pots with clear and soy saucebase beef soups always boiling continuously at the e ntra nc e to the s ho p. L aowa ng ji be ef sou p i s well known for being rich and flavor ful. The owner ser ves hungr y eaters with swif tness from years of experience which is unique to old shops.
4. Dongyi Pork Chop
T he f lamboya nt nightclub-like interior de coration of this re st au r a nt i s i n i ts e l f a p o i nt of i nte re st. D o n g y i's p o r k chops are first flavor fully marinated and then crisply deep f r i e d. J u i c y p o r k m e a t i s l o c ke d i n s i d e a t h i n l a y e r o f crunchy coating seasoned with black pepper. It is ser ved with choices of rice or soup noodle, guaranteed to satisf y the pickiest palates.
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5.Olympia Foods This is a baker y chain that specializes in cakes, breads, and s n a c k s . A m o n g a g r e a t v a r i e t y of p r o d u c t s of f e r e d i n t h e shop, its sandwiches, stuf fed potato salad bread, and white sugar sponge cake are the most sought-af ter items. This bake r y a lso of fe r s traditiona l bra ise d s nacks, Hong Kong st y le d i m -s u m, a n d m a ny oth e r s m a l l d i s h e s. O l y m p i a g i ve s th e traveler another kind of choice by of fering both sweet and savor y selections in one place.
7.Snow King Ice Cream
6. Renji Jinling Plum Juice Yu a nli ng Stre et h a s the s me ll of d a r k pl u ms. T he shop owners, a couple of husband and wife, stick to the a ncie nt method of brewing natura l plum juice. This natural healthy drink is good for throat and helps digestion.
8.Xiaonanmen Fool's Noodle
S e s a m e o i l c h i c ke n, d r i e d m e at f l os s, p i g k n u c k l e, K i n m e n K a o l i a n g L i q u o r, etc. a re n ot ex a ctl y th e f l avo r s to exp e ct at a n i c e c re a m s h o p. T h e s h o p ser ves more than sevent y flavors of fresh homemade ice cream, which range from the classic to the bizarre. It does not mat ter whether you are looki n g fo r u n i q u e f l avo r s fo u n d n ow h e r e else in the world or simply a refreshing moment, Snow King Ice Cream Shop is definitely the place to go.
9.Maylin fruit shop
A b ow l of Fo o l's N o o d l e i s b o i l i n g w h i te n o o d l e g a r n i s h e d o n l y w i th a few chopped green onion. Its seasoning is entirely up to the eater. Customers would add sauces or seasonings on the table to their nood l e s ac c o rd i n g to p e r s o n a l p refe re n c e. It i s b e l i eve d th at i t's c a l l e d Fool's Noodle due to its more than simple cooking process, so simple that only a fool would order such dish. Actually there is nothing foolish a bout thi s noodl e: by adding the s hop's se c ret s auc e, eve r yone c a n create the simplest yet most delicious meal.
Fruits are the best way to taste the richness and a b u n d a n c e of Ta i wa n's p ro d u c e. I nf l u e n c e d by the Ja pa ne se, the se f r ui t s ho ps h ave a meti culous way of arranging and displaying their products in an orderly fashion. It is not only the ap pearance that is enticing about the fruits sold in these shops but also carefully controlled qualit y keeping customers coming back for more.
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Historic Walks in Greater Chengzhong Area
人文歷史街區
Old Coffee Shops 10.Café
Astoria
The specialt y of the house is its famous Russian candy. However, Cafe Astoria is perhaps k nown for being a popular spot where many literati and notable figures gather, whom the owner has befriended over the years. Famous writers, poets and ar tists known to h ave f r e q u e nte d t h e A s to r i a i n c l u d e p o et C h o u Meng-die, writer Huang Chun-ming, Chen Ruo-xi, Lin Hwai-min,and Bai Xien-yung. Many other cultural figures have spent many years of their lives here.
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畫報
11. Top Coffee House Its friendly shop owner has kept the shop running for d e c a d e s . T h e s h o p i s a l w a y s p a c ke d w i t h r e g u l a r s who belong to the elder generation, or those nostalgic o ne s w ho se e k fo r o l d f l avo r that c a n o nl y be fou nd in this cof fee shop. In this place, even time seems to have slowed down for them.
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Historic Walks in Greater Chengzhong Area
人文歷史街區
畫報
Restaurants and Eateries
12.Long's Shanghai Restaurant Loved equally by Shanghai descendents, common citizens, and professional food critics, Long's restaurant ser ves authentic Shanghai cuisine, making people feel guilty to miss out. More than twenty dishes of appetizers plus big plates of traditionally arranged hors d'oeuvre will take you back in time to old Shanghai.
13.Li-Du Japanese Restaurant The best way to enjoy a course meal in this restaurant is to sit at the bar. The chefs behind the counter will arrange a customized menu according to each customer's budget. The unexpected surprise of not following a set menu is perhaps its biggest charm. Everything is decided according to available ingredients and produces of the day and the personal preferences of each customer. All that with the friendliness of the owner as a side dish, this restaurant is definitely the place to go when you are hungry.
14. Tian Cai Refreshment Saloon T he restaurant has an unmistakably distinct Japanese ambient setting. The vibrant sound of the public and the environment give that authentic Japanese eater y feel. It ser ves staples of Japanese popular menu, including all kinds of donburi (bowls of rice with toppings), tenpura (deep-fried vegetable and seafood), deep-fried prawn, o m u r i c e o r o m e l et w i th f r i e d r i c e (to m ato s au c e f r i e d rice wrapped inside an egg omelet), sashimi (raw seafood), and so on. If inexpensive but popular Japanese food is what you a re look ing for, T i a n Ca i is the r ig ht place for you.
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15.Uncle John Its best known dish is called "Kao-fang", w h i c h i s p o r k b e l l y c u t i n to b i g c u b e s se asoned with soy sauc e, cr ysta l suga r, s t a r a n i s e, a n d th e n b r a i s e d s l ow l y u n til the sauce reduces to become thick in c o n s i s te n c y. T h e d i s h i s a l w ay s s e r ve d with steamed buns in the form of a sandwi c h, or s impl y with ve g eta ble r ic e. T he lean meat par t is always juicy and the fat par t is oily but not greasy to the bite. Are you tempted?
Old Tea Shops
16. Fong Pu Tea Company F o n g P u Te a C o m p a n y i s designated as a historic monument, meticulously carefully selecting quality products with reasonable prices. Even Chiang Kaishek was one of its frequent c u s to m e r s t h e n, g i v i n g t h e e va l u a t i o n of n a t i o n a l t r e a sure to this tea company.
17. Chuanxiang Tea House T he s ho p h a s m a n ag e d to pre se r ve i ts l av i s hl y craf ted front entrance dating back to the Japan e s e C o l o n i a l e r a . C h u a n x i a n g's m o s t p o p u l a r item is Jasmine Green Tea, made by following a strict traditional recipe and using only the best jasmine flowers and green tea.
18. Ten Ren Tea Company The shop on Hengyang Road is one of the most significant points of origin for Ten Ren Group. This "Ten Ren Tea Culture B u i l d i n g" s y m b o l i ze s t h e u n i o n b e t w e e n t r a d i t i o n a n d m o d e r n i t y. T h e t r e n d y t e a booths managed by this old tea house sell te a d r i n ks th at a re a t ad p r i cy c o m p a re d to ot h e r c h e a p e r b r a n d s. H oweve r, m o s t people still carr y one in their hands, which ser ves as best proof that good quality means ever y thing.
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Historic Walks in Greater Chengzhong Area
人文歷史街區
畫報
Ximen Gourmet Commoners' Gourmet 19. Yaroubian Traditional Goose Restaurant This restaurant sells qualit y goose meat with fresh soup. There are not many choices in the menu, so whichever your choice is its signature dish.
20. Lau Tian Lu (Wu Chang St.) Its c o l d m e at a nd fow l stewe d w i th soy s au c e a re ve r y t a s t y. I t s d u c k to n g u e s, e s p e c i a l l y p r e fe r r e d by Hong Kong visitors, are ex tremely popular even when sold in limited numbers. In addition, continuous crowds lining up from morning to night all year round are one of the wonders in Ximending.
21.Yang Ji peanuts and corn ice When ser ved on the table, the shaved ice is covered with white peanuts and yellow corns. It is a per fect match to eat peanut, corn and ice at the same time.
22.Chengdu Starfruit Ice Its sour, salt y and sweet star fruit juice is a musttr y d r i n k w h e n eve r p e o p l e v i s i t X i m e n d i n g. Eve n when the weather is cold, you can still have it without ice.
23.Huang’s stewed pork rice Its pork is stewed in the marinade for a long time till ver y sof t. A bowl of rice with a piece of stewed pork gives people a good appetite.
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24. Nan Man Do honey cake T h e c a ke t a s te s g r e a t a n d n o t to o s w e e t . Af ter put for two days, it tastes even bet ter. The glittering packaging looks nostalgic.
25. Simon Food It se ll s Ta i wa ne se -st y l e od e n. Te mpu ra i s its signature dish.
26.Ay-Chung Flour-Rice Noodle Its intestines are stewed thoroughly, flour-rice n o o d l e s t a ste s of t b u t n ot m a s hy, a n d c h i l i sauce is spicy enough. Customers stand on the roadside to finish more than one bowl.
27. No-name oden It lies in the corner on Kunming Street. The boiling vapor and smell of oden attract people passing by. T h e re a re a l s o s o m e J a p a n e s e c u i s i n e s. H e re i s suitable for snacks or meals.
28. Ah-tsai's Milkfish Place Milk f ish be ll y a nd bra ise d por k r ice a re the most popular specials at Ah-tsai's. Milk fish belly is well known for its tenderness and delicious taste. If you ever had a sudden attack of craving for good food a n d m i d n i g h t s n a c k , A h -t s a i's M i l k f i s h P l a c e i s definitely the place to go since it is open from 10 PM to 6 AM.
29.Hong Yi crystal dumpling The cr ystal dumplings ser ved here are larger than o r d i n a r y o n e s , l i ke s m a l l m e a t b a l l s . T h e e l a s t i c w r a p g o e s we l l w i t h t h e s a l te d s t u f f i n g. ( I f yo u r stomach still has space, it is recommended to tr y egg yolk buns.)
Lai Shian food 30. Yung and cured meat For fif ty years, it sells meat floss, dried pork, beef j e r k y a n d C a n to n e s e c u r e d m e a t, w h o s e s t a b l e qualit y hooks customers’ loyalty.
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Historic Walks in Greater Chengzhong Area
Old Coffee Shops 31.Fongda Café Opposite to the Taipei Tianhou Temple, Fongda Café is not only antique but also strict in cof fee q u a l i t y. D i f fe re nt s e ats h ave d i f fe re nt fe e l i n g s. T h e f i r s t f l o o r i s f u l l of c of fe e s m e l l w h i l e t h e second floor has a view.
32.Nanmei Coffee Enjoying equal fame with Fongda Café, Nanmei Cof fee has a similar old style. Customers inside a r e g e n e r a l l y a g e d , h a v i n g b r e a k f a s t , d r i n king cof fee and reading newspaper to spend the morning hours.
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人文歷史街區
畫報
Restaurants and Eateries
33. Mei Guan Yuan I t s e r v e s t h e Ta i w a n e s e - s t y l e J a p a n e s e c u i sine. Perhaps the restaurant is not that or thodox, but its good taste and fair price are good enough.
34. Fuzhou Shinli Daya Restaurant
Fuzhou cuisine re staura nts a re not commonly se e n in Taiwa n, which ma ke s Shinli Daya one of the representative Fuzhou restaurants in the c o u nt r y. R e d ye a s t r i c e, s e a fo o d, a n d s we et and sour dish are the three major characteristics of Fuzhou cuisine. If light food is not what your hear t desires, this restaurant might just be the right one for your taste.
35.Flower Lounge Restaurant Whe n e njoying authe ntic Hong Kong st yle D im-Sum, the re are two things that should not be absent: one is tea on the table, and the other is the dim-sum pushcar ts. These pushc a r ts c a r r y a l l k i nd s of d e l i c i ou s g o od n e s s r u n n i n g bu s i l y b et we e n t a b l e s. C u s to m e r s s to p th e c a r ts a n d t a ke w h at they fa ncy. T his is the true Hong Kong st yle dim-sum way that makes you feel like being in Hong Kong!
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Historic Walks in Greater Chengzhong Area
人文歷史街區
畫報
Hi storic R eli cs Map I
f Greater Chengzhong was a book, the historical sites are its index. Due to Greater Chengzhong's rich historic background, it possesses a great number of architectural relics that belong to different periods in history. North Gate is the only gate in the city which has preserved its most original appearance from the Imperial Qing Dynasty. The Japanese people have brought traditional Buddhist temple style, but in contrast, have also introduced its deeply influenced western style architecture. This occidental building style was not only used for public buildings but was also adopted by civilian housings in the area. Facade decorations of the houses on Hengyang Road are predominantly Renaissance. Under the strong influence of westernization movement, buildings in this area adopted multiculturalism and modernism design elements. The westernization here in Greater Chengzhong area is even more thorough than Dihua Street in Dadaocheng area. Besides those dazzling majestic public buildings, travelers can also find in the alleys and streets of Greater Chengzhong beautiful structures that exalt other aesthetic aspects in architecture. So get ready to browse through this interesting book index with your eyes and feet!
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Ch e ngz hong His t o ric Relic s
Architecture Z h o n g s h a n H a l l wa s o n e of J a p a n e s e a rc h i te ct I d e K ao r u’s most significant architectural projects in Taiwan. The building is a concrete edifice with steel structure. The original building was faced in light green tile produced by Beitou Kiln, and the windows are adorned with classical designs in an Islamic style which is rarely seen in Taiwan. The mix ture of various architectural elements makes this building stand out for its solemn beauty.
Huang Tu-shui’s Sculpture of Buffalos
36.Z h o n g s h a n
Hall
The hall’s present location was once the hear t of Taipe i Cit y. Having witnessed the passing of the Imperial Qing Dynasty, the Japanese Colonial rule, th e re p u b l i c, a n d th e m o d e r n ti m e s, Z h o n g s h a n Hall has become the best recorder for capturing Taiwan’s histor y in Greater Chengzhong area. Today, it hosts many music recitals, concer ts, theatrical per formances, and film festivals.
Located on the central stair way between the second and the third floor is the bas-relief entitled The Sculpture of Buf falos, whic h was c omplete d in 1930 by Ta iwa ne se sculptor Hua ng Tu-shui. His works had been selected many times into Japane se Impe r i a l E x hibiti o n a nd e njoye d a g o od re putati o n. H e had accumulated years of obser vation on water buf falos and decided to put all his energy into the creation of The Sculpture of Buf falos. Sadly, this masterpiece became his ver y last creation.
Guangfu Auditorium Af ter Taiwan's Retrocession to the Republic of China in 1945 af te r Wor ld Wa r II, Chi ef of Ta iwa n Prov inci a l Administrati ve Of fice, Chen Yi represented the Allies and accepted a formal surrender from the Japanese in this Guangfu Auditorium. The auditorium is a t wo-stor y high rise hall adorned with Islamic motif mosaics on its second floor hallway walls. The venue is u s e d to d ay m a i n l y fo r m e d i u m to s m a l l s ize c o nfe re n c e s o r music recitals.
New Humanity Style (Taipei Lecture Hall and Director Tsai's Café Galerie) Z h o n g s h a n H a l l's ex te r i o r a p p e a r a n c e i s th at of a m o d e r n ist western style building. However, Taipei Lecture Hall on the third floor is decorated with an authentic Chinese flavor. The lecture hall is not an ordinar y school or a college institution; it is rather a philosophical space that the classics of knowledge a re taught he re, whe re those w ho se e k the wi sdo m e mba r k o n a n i nte l l e ctu a l j ou r n ey g u i d e d by m a ste r s o r i n str u cto r s, with the ultimate goal of putting into daily practice what they have learned here. If you do not have much time for one of the lectures, a good alternative choice is to spend some rela xing time by reading a good Chinese classic literature and savoring a good cup of Taiwanese tea at the Lecture Hall's tea house. Climbing up to the four th f loor from Taipei Lecture Hall, you will be greeted by a long corridor of mosaic floor and red sofas. It will make you wonder if you had entered some sor t of vintage train carriage. This mysterious place is Director Tsai’s Café Galerie, and it is indeed the acclaimed film director Tsai M i n g - l i a n g w h o ow n s th e c afe. T h e i nte r i o r d e c o r ati o n a n d all the three major spaces in this cafe were all designed and planned by the director himself. T here are the cafe corridor, the vintage movie room, and the outdoor terrace. By combini n g c of fe e, f i l m, a n d p e r fo r m i n g a r t, h e h a s c re ate d a n e w brew for the old Zhongshan Hall.
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Historic Walks in Greater Chengzhong Area
37.T a i p e i
Guest House
Its construction was completed in 1901, and was originally named "Taiwan Governor's Residence" for being the Governor-General's living quar ters during the Japanese occupation. The House was also used to accommodate me mbe r s of the Impe r i a l House of Ja pa n or to re c e i ve and enter tain impor tant guests of the government. Af ter ex tensive renovations, present day Taipei Guest House is a beautiful baroque building. It is covered by Mansard style roof and wrapped by high Roman pillars which suppor t the ba l c o ni e s. In i ts i nte r i or, the Hou se boasts of l av ish cr ystal cha nde lie r s with gold foiled de corations, Victorian ceramic tiles and fireplaces, and beech wood design floor.
38.N a t i o n a l
Taiwan Museum
T h e m u s e u m i s c o n s t r u c te d i n 1913 d u r i n g t h e e a r l y stages of the Japanese Colonial Period. In order to better understand the Taiwanese culture and folklore as well a s sur vey Ta iwa n's r i c h natura l re sourc e s, the gove r nment invited scientists, anthropologists, folklore scholars and other exper ts to come to Taiwan for the purpose of c onducting f i e ld re se a rc he s. C onse qu e ntl y, the re sults of those scientific studies were housed and displayed in this museum. T h e a r c h i te c t a d o pt s a G r e e k s t y l e. G i a n t p i l l a r s a n d gables decorated with gorgeous flower and leaf patterns are major features. Along with a Roman dome, the building has a solemn and sacred image. The splendid hall is the focus of National Taiwan Museum’s building.
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人文歷史街區
畫報
39.L a n d
Bank of
Taiwan Exhibition Hall
This Greek neoclassical structure was the former Taipei Branch of Nippon Kangyo Bank. The European temple style columns in the front of the building are more decorative than practical in function. Interestingly, the details on these columns were inspired by ancient Egyptian or ancient Central American Mayan designs, featuring exotic beast busts on column capitals.
42.F u t a i
Street Mansion
T his ma nsion was the ve r y f ir st we ste r n st yle ma nsion with a strong European flavor to be constructed in Taipei. This is a stre et that doe s not physic a ll y ex ist in mode r n day. Futa i Street had its origin back in the Qing Dynasty thanks to then gove r nor of Ta iwa n, L iu Ming- c hu a n. He had c hose n to e stablish the Government Hall at this location. Hence the street w a s t h e n n a m e d Fu t a i S t r e e t, m e a n i n g Ta i w a n G ove r n o r ’s street. Right af ter the Japanese took over Taiwan, demolitions of Q i n g bu i l d i n g s a nd str u ctu re s we re c a r r i e d o u t; we ste r n style housings and mansions were soon erected in their places. This mansion is the remnant of that par ticular time period. This small Futai Street Mansion with its complex background is the representation of Greater Chengzhong’s histor y.
43.T a i w a n
40.T a i w a n
Chi Nam
Presbyterian Church
The church's architecture is Gothic in style featuring a small tower with car ved stone window blinds. It is similar to English Victorian era brick chapels in characteristics.
41.N o r t h
Gate
Sta nding still at the inte r se ction o f Z h o n g x i a o We s t R o a d , B o a i Road, Ya npi ng Sou th a nd N o r th Road, it is Che ng e n G ate whic h is located in the Nor th of the city. Its Chinese name literally means “Ac c e pta nc e of Im pe r i a l G rac e,” w h i c h i m pl i e s th i s g ate’s i m po rta nce in the past. Nor th G ate is the only cit y gate from the Q ing Dynasty that fully retains its o r i g i n a l a p p e a r a n c e. I t h a s w i tn e s s e d m a n y m i l e s to n e s i n t h e histor y of Taiwan. In 1895, Nor th G a te o p e n e d to a 5 0 -y e a r l o n g Japanese colonial period; and in the 1960s, it saw the progress that Taiwan had begun to enjoy and the rise of the cultural assets conser vation movement. This old gate is so impor tant that even the high-rise viaduct take a d e to u r fo r i t, c r e a t i n g a h a r m o n i o u s c o existence between modern and ancient.
South Gate was the largest among all five gates, and it was the gate that most people use to enter the city during the Q ing Dynast y. It connects present day's Guting a nd Jingme i a re a. East G ate of fe re d pas s ag e to Ta ipe i X ikou river whar f (present Songshan). Lit tle South Gate was the only double-section small gate of all. It leads to Mengjia and Banciao areas. T hese three gates had undergone "plastic surgeries" in 1965 which changed their or i gina l Q ing D y nast y l ook to that of the nor the r n Chin e se pa l ati a l st y l e. Re g a rd l e s s of th e i r tr a n sfo r m ati o n, these gates still faithfully watch over the city.
Cooperative Bank
This bank was built in 1927, the arcade at its central entrance is t wostorey high. On both sides of the entrance, you can see t wo massive columns majestically guarding the door. The ex terior wall features a pair of owl stone car vings as ornament, which also ser ve as night-watchers and treasur y guardians.
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Historic Walks in Greater Chengzhong Area
人文歷史街區
Ximen Histor ic Reli c s
44.R e d
House
Red House is a Western-st yle red-brick octagonal structure standing quietly in a corner of Ximending. It was originally the Ximen Market designed by Japa n e s e a rc h i te ct Ko n d o J u ro b ac k i n 19 0 8 a s Ta i wan's first public market. The market, incorporating both octag o n a l a nd c r u c i fo r m s h a p e s, wa s pa ra l leled by no other in the east and west. Red House wa s o n c e t h e m a r ket p l a c e fo r t h e c o m m o n c i t i zens, then a stage for Pek ing Opera and comedic c ro s s -t a l k p e r fo r m a n c e s, a n d eve nt u a l l y b e c a m e a m ov i e th e ate r w h e n b l ac k a n d w h i te f i l m s we re popular. In recent years, it has combined exhibition, per forming ar ts, and creative culture all together to become an octagonal treasure box full of creativity and historical memories. Nowadays it is the place to go if you are into creative and cultural ar tifacts, bu t m ost i m p o r ta ntl y, i t i s a p l ac e th at e m b rac e s and tolerates all aspects of culture.
45.X i
Ben Yuan Temple
(Original Japanese: Nishi Honganji)
It was the largest Japanese Buddhist temple in Taiwan during the Japanese colonial period. Its main structure employed the traditional mor tise and tenon joint system, which originated in China during the Tang Dynasty. It was adopted by the Japanese a nd i m p rove d af te r wa rd s. It i s i nte re sti n g to n ote h ow a g a p th at l a s te d a m i l l e n n i u m wa s m e n d e d here today. A fire in 1975 burned down most of Xi Ben Yuan Temple, and its foundation, stone pedestals, and par t of the railings were the only remnants that sur vived the fire. In 2011, the restoration proje ct of this once majestic re ligious ce nter was under way. Visitors can once again be able to admire its solemn presence in the near future.
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畫報
C heng z h o ng
Xi me n
46.T a i w a n
47.T a i p e i
Temple
City God
“C i t y H a l l i s i n c h a rg e of e a r th l y af f a i r s, w h i l e C i t y G o d Te m p l e i s i n c h a r g e o f u n d e r g r o u n d a f f a i r s .” F o u n d e d i n 1879, Ta i wa n C i t y G o d Te m p l e h a s b e e n ex i s tent over a hundred years. Its visitors and prayers keep on coming. Piles of of ferings on the ta ble show believers’ enthusiasm. To d a y i t s b e l i e v e r s a r e c o m p o s e d of a l l wa l ks of l i fe, i n c l u d i n g th e p o l i c e, of f i c e wo r ke r s, c i v i l s e r va nts a n d eve n j u d i c i a l of ficers. They would all come here for adv i c e . I t b e c o m e s a n i n te r e s t i n g p r a y i n g culture and activating the surrounding living area and business development. From the past to the present, Taiwan Cit y G o d Te m p l e h a s a l w a y s m a i n t a i n e d a close and continuing changeable relationship with the local ruling class, surrounding people and Taipei City.
Temple
Tianhou
T h e re i s a s p e c i a l te m p l e su r rou nd e d by t h e u r b a n j u n g l e o n a c r o w d e d s t r e e t— Taipei Tianhou Temple. Inside the narrow g a te l i e s a l a r g e b e a u t i f u l te m p l e . B u i l t i n t h e ye a r 174 6 (Q i n g D y n a s t y E m p e ro r Q ianlong's reign), it was originally named "Sinsing Temple," and houses Ma zu, who i s th e m o st p o p u l a r Tao i st d e i t y to m o st followers in Taiwan. During the Japanese colonial era, Sinsing Temple was dismantled. Af ter the Second World War, the followers moved the Ma zu st atu e i nto th e J a p a n e s e B u d d h i st Ko b o Temple, while Kobo Daishi was worshiped at the side hall. It was later renamed Taipe i T i a nhou Te mple loc ate d in a bustling street. There is a cover on the bell at the e n t r a n c e, w h i c h r e m i n d s v i s i to r s o f t h e l o n g h i s to r y h e r e. I n a d d i t i o n, a s Ta i p e i T i a n h o u Te m p l e w o r s h i p s K o b o D a i s h i , many Japanese visitors are of ten seen to call on the place.
Map of Religion M
any religious centers in Greater Chengzhong area had not had a smooth fate. Both Taiwan City God Temple and Taipei Tianhou Temple were forced to relocate during the Japanese occupation. It was only after the Japanese's retreat that their respective faithful followers carefully selected locations to permanently accommodate these temples. Today like it was a hundred years ago, believers still pour into these spiritual sanctuaries. A picture that is the best testament of the importance of traditional belief in people's lives even in a modern bustling city such as this one. Furthermore, a huge Buddhist deity statue Guanyin can be seen at the entrance of Taiwan City God Temple, and Taipei Tianhou Temple which is also a Taoist temple, houses Hongfa, who was a prominent Buddhist monk. All these show how tolerant and diversified religion is in Taiwan.
19
Historic Walks in Greater Chengzhong Area
人文歷史街區
畫報
Shop p i ng Map G
reater Chengzhong area impresses people with a vivid urban vibration, such as a large number of military and governmental officials, office workers, vendors, and consumers. Taking City God Temple as center, you can reach and shop around Chengzhong market, ladies street, and Yuanling Street (shoe shop street). You can even buy garments and accessories from head to toe with only one money bill! The nearby Boai Road (camera shop street) is the holy ground for photography enthusiasts, and although the bookstores street on Chongqing South Road has seen better days, it still insists on passing knowledge to the populace. Since the Japanese Colonial era, Ximending has led the trend for nearly a century. It used to disappear in the arena for a short time, but now it changes its appearance, leaps to the top of the fashion, and becomes teenagers’ playground. Everything can be found in Ximending. Popular culture in Ximending is always in the present tense. Everything here is what's "hot": the latest products, the most interesting little things, and the most popular trends are all found in Ximending where you may never get tired of shopping!
Shopping in Chengzhong for ev e ryone Guide: 1.For those who carefully controls their budget, never miss out on Chengzhong market, ladies street, Yuanling Street (shoe shop street) where you can buy garments and accessories from head to toe with only one money bill. 2.If you are into culture and literature, stop by the bookstores street on Chongqing South Road and feel its former glory. Next, although a little distant, do not forget to take a look at the camera shops on Boai Road where a huge collection of vintage cameras is waiting for you in many stores. You can also engage in a productive and educational conversation on photography with most shop owners. 3.For those advanced level travelers, let's tailor-make a cheongsam in one of many fabric shops on Boai Road. This will surely be the most unforgettable souvenir you have ever got.
48. Heng Tai Fung You have probably been to Din Tai Fung and tried its world famous small steamed buns already. However, do you k now the relationship bet ween these t wo businesses? Heng Tai Fung is a Taipei based old oil and sauce business established in 1949. It h a s n o fa n cy s i g n s o r g o o d l o o k i n g ret a i l sto re s. Never theless, we should never judge a book by its cover. Many big and fancy restaurant chains including Din Tai Fung only use condiments and sauces p rov i d e d by H e n g Ta i Fu n g. I t i s n ot h a r d to te l l why. Even a simple sesame oil from this store can turn tasteless white noodles into a bowl of delicious meal.
49.Yuanling Street (shoe shop street) It is impossible to miss the street when you see a pair of gigantic shoe models sitting at the entrance. T h e stre et i s o n l y a s h o r t 20 0 m ete r s l o n g b u t i t is one of the cleanest streets in the city. All shops here maintain the wonder ful tradition of being honest and true to their customers. Shoes made by old but experienced shoe makers here are comfor table and durable.
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Market and 50. Chengzhong Ladies Street Do you know that Taipei City also has a ladies street? T h i s l a d i e s s t r e e t r a n g e s f r o m t h e L a n e 16 of F i r s t Section on Wuchang Street nex t to Cit y God Temple to the no r th C he ngzho ng M a r ket th at se l l s a s so r te d women’s clothing. Here is the famous “shopping boulevard.” A large number of clothing stores are located n ex t to e a c h ot h e r. A s t h e s to r e s l i e i n t h e m i l i t a r y a n d g ove r n m e nt a l s p e c i a l a re a , s i m p l e a n d l ow- key s t y l e s a r e t h e m a i n s t r e a m, w i t h p l a i n b u t s o p h i s t i cated workmanship. The walls of these small shops in Chengzhong Market's Nor th Ba zaar are fully covered by c l oth e s. S l o g a n s of “c l o s e o u t s a l e” c a n b e s e e n eve r y w h e re. M o re ove r, c o m m o d i t y p r i c e s h e re a re d e f i n i te l y l owe r th a n ave r a g e. A pair of e mbroide red shoe s costs NT$250, a s w e a t s h i r t c o s t s N T $ 6 0, a n d a s h a w l costs US$100 only. You can definitely buy more than you can carr y in NT$1,000.
Road 51.Boai (Fabric Stores) Tr a d i t i o n a l f a b r i c s t o r e s c a n b e f o u n d i n G r e a t e r Chengzhong area. Back in the 1950s when prêt-à-porter clothing had not become a trend, the ladies would go to Boai Road and buy fabrics to be tailor-made into che ongsa m. In these stores, a n e ndle ss se le ction of fabrics of dif ferent colors and materials will mesmerize anyone. When customers are over whelmed, exper i e nc e d store ke e pe r s would of te n prov id e the m with practical and useful advices. You can order a cheongsam to be made just for yourself and take home as a customized souvenir with you.
52.Boai Road (camera street) Wa lk ing a lit tl e f ur the r dow n Boa i Road, you will se e shop signs that look like films, which tell you with clarity that here is the largest concentration of photographi c e quipme nt sto re s i n Ta iwa n. Tod ay the re a re mo re than fif ty camera shops on Boai Road. It does not matter what accessories you are looking for, whether they are nosecones, tripods, filters, flashes, lenses of all focal lengths, professional SLR cameras, digital compact cameras, or maybe just to have your camera repaired; Boai Road is def initely the ultimate destination for all your photographic needs. You can buy a camera with c a s h o n B o a i R o a d, a s k a ny t h i n g yo u wa nt to k n ow a b o u t c a m e r a s a n d g et e nth u s i a sti c re s p o n s e s b ac k from shop owners.
hongqing South 53.C(bookstores street)
Road
There are a large number of bookstores, such as Commercial Press, World Journal Book Store, Popular Book S to r e, K i n g s to n e B o o k s to r e, E a s te r n P u b l i s h i n g C o., Ltd. a nd etc. W i th sto re s i g ns o n e by o n e, th i s bo o kstores street has a clear feature. Till the heyday of the 1950 s, a hundred of bookstores we re thus distributed o n b o t h s i d e s o f t h e r o a d. M a ny n e w s s t a n d s s e l l i n g maga zines, books and newspapers also appeared in the a rc ad e, whi c h be c a me a c ircul ati on c ha nne l for some banned books. Today, the number of newsstands in the arcade decreases considerably. In order to earn more i n c o m e, n ews st a n d s p rov i d e d i ve r s e s e r v i c e s. W h e n ever New Year holidays come, they sell red envelopes and Spring Festival couplets. In addition, they sell second-hand books, enter tainment maga zines, agricultural calendars and almanacs with fruits pictures. They look ver y authentic Taiwanese style.
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Historic Walks in Greater Chengzhong Area
人文歷史街區
畫報
To p 10 M us t - b uy s i n Xi me ndi ng Order a customized personal figurine Manga comic and anime characters are not always th e c e ntra l th e m e of f i g u r i n e s. N ow you c a n h ave your ver y own personal figurine! All that is required is a picture of your choice and in just one week you will have your ver y unique customized figurine that is guaranteed to be the only one in the world. Besides figurines, there are also a wide range of other p ro d u c t s t h a t yo u c a n h ave c u s to m i ze d, s u c h a s pe nda nts, mugs, throw pillows, note books a nd so on. Not only do these personalized items make an exclusive souvenir but also a per fect gif t for a special someone.
Mobile phones and accessories Shizilin Building is where most people go when they need to buy a mobile phone. Most of the mobile phone shops are concentrated on the first floor of the bu ildi ng, a nd th i s i s w he re you c a n f i nd a ll brands and makes of mobile phones. In this building, you c a n a lso have mobile phone s re pa ire d or protective membrane installed. Fair pricing and quality ser vices are the key to its popularity.
Figurines and Gashapons (capsule toys) In Ta i p e i, th e fou r th f l o o r of Wa n n i e n C o m m e rc i a l Building is a holy ground for model toy enthusiasts. It is practically possible to f ind whateve r it is that you were looking for in model shops here. The ever popular Gundam Series is a staple merchandise in this pl ac e, a nd you c a n a lso a lways se e the "hot" girl and popular manga or anime characters model f igurines in ever y shop. O f course, for those more serious aficionados there are shops that only specialize in hobby model aircraf ts, militar y battleships, and cars. But be careful, if you do not have a will of steel, you are ver y likely to get hooked on gashapon (capsule toys) machines and end up with bagful of toys in your hands.
Japanese manga, anime, and magazines Ximending has perhaps the largest concentrati o n of Ja pa ne se tre nd re l ate d bu s i ne s s i n Ta i p e i. Just about ever y t ype of Japanese manga and ani m e re l ate d m e rc h a n d i s e s, s u c h a s c o m i c b o o ks, maga zines, novels, computer games, f ilms, music, and many more can be found here. Young men and wo m e n t a ke t h e i r t i m e s to b r ow s e t h r o u g h e ve r y single item in these shops. Japanese fashion magazines are ex tremely popular among young girls, which more than of ten comes with a free handbag for ever y purchase. This explains why these shops are always crowded.
Uniforms and cosplay costumes Another unique scene in Ximending is mannequins dressed in uniforms and cosplay costumes displayed in f ront of these shops. T his is the pe r fe ct place for having your suit made, or your costumes made if you are into cosplay. However, if time is not what you have but still want to have some fun, you can pick a costume at shops that sell ready-to-wear costumes. The selection would be limited, but it is still a convenient and fast way to have a good time.
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Inexpensive fashion clothing X i m e n d i n g a l s o at tr a cts th e yo u n g g e n e r ati o n w i t h i n ex p e n s i ve b u t i n -f a s h i o n c l ot h i n g. I t i s hard to compete with large scale famous fashion brands, but these small shops with tens of d re s se d m a n ne q u i ns sta nd i ng at the e ntra nc e a nd walls f ull of ga r me nts a re no le ss popula r th a n b i g b r a n d s. I n th e s e s h o p s yo u c a n f i n d the latest patterns and style but pay reasonable prices for them!
Fashion bags and handbags T h e r e i s a n a m a z i n g l y c o m p l e te c o l l e c t i o n of bags and handbags in Ximending. Any handbag shop you visit here is able to of fer an array of bags and purses of all sizes and uses, from the small key purse to wallets, money purses, slim p u r s e s , c o nv e n i e n t m e s s e n g e r b a g s , e l e g a n t handbags, work brief bags, and student's favorite backpacks. If you carr y too many things from s h o p p i n g i n X i m e n d i n g, g o i n to o n e o f t h e s e bag shops and find a per fect bag for yourself.
Shoes, socks and shoelaces There are a good number of shoe stores and famous brand spor t footwear stores in Ximending where they are all lined up on the same street. At Wa n n i e n B u i l d i n g yo u c a n f i n d ve r y c h e a p shoes; however, the qualities var y from shop to shop. It is always a good idea to compare and inspect carefully before taking out your wallet. S o c k s h o p s a r e a l s o a n ot h e r s p e c i a l t y i n X i me nding. In this place you ca n eve n get thre e pairs of socks for just NT$50. Just a reminder, there is a vendor by Emei Parking Lot that sells all kinds and colors of shoelaces, so do not forget to check it out if you want to express your personality with your footwear!
Cosmetics Ximending is also a competitive battleground for the cosmetics businesses. In a small area you can find all sor ts of Japanese, Korean, and Taiwa ne se l oc a l bra nds of c os meti c s a nd be aut y products. It is per fect for girls who are seeking to elevate their beauty to a whole new level.
Idol and celebrity merchandises Being a sanctuar y for young people, many film o r p o p s t a r s of te n c h o o s e X i m e n d i n g to h o l d PR eve nts. Te l ev i s i o n a n d f i l m p ro d u cti o n a re a l so ve r y f re qu e ntl y se e n s hooti ng i n X ime ndi n g. S o i f yo u a r e a s t a r c h a s e r, yo u r r a te of successfully bumping into a pop ar tist is quite high here. Do not get discouraged if you are not that luck y. There are plent y of shops that of fer merchandises related to Japanese, Korean, and Ta iwa ne se pop a r ti sts a nd f i l m sta r s. In the se s h o p s y o u c a n f i n d y o u r f a v o r i te i d o l o n ke y chains, towels, throw pillows, calendars, posters, pendants, ornaments, socks, pictures, buttons, cups, mugs-you name it!
23
Historic Walks in Greater Chengzhong Area
人文歷史街區
畫報
大城中 人文歷史街區
The Taipei City Walls were completed in 1884 and began to be dismantled in 1900. As a result, the city had actually existed only for a few years which is long enough to be embedded in the memory of its citizens. In comparison, the legendary Chengzhong District has a long history of 130 years being the government administrative center, and a core cultural, political, and economic district in Taiwan. Greater Chengzhong area is the epitome of Taipei in history, narrating the evolution of the city governance with both official staidness and folk vitality. Under the arcade of the century-old street houses, there are vendors selling assorted local delicacies, traditional lunar calendars or creative design products. Such a well-balanced contrast reflects the genuine settings of Taipei livelihood. With abundant layers of history, Greater Chengzhong area offers glimpses into the past that spans three historical periods from the Qing dynasty, the Japanese colonial era to the Republic of China. You can have a closer look at the development of Taipei, carry out an archaeological journey, experience its folk life culture, and even enjoy the pleasure of treasure hunting between the old and the new. Now the city is no longer bound by the city walls and the five city gates. Travelers are free to roam around in Greater Chengzhong area. Get ready and set out on an archaeological trip filled with both illusion and reality. Experience the development of the city through each brick and tile, and feel with your heart the pace and movement of Taipei. 師範大學
Are you ready? Come on and keep up with us as we enter the city together.
Tel ： +886-2-8369-2963 Fax： +886-2-8369-5076 Website: www.tteacafe.tw E-mail: tteacafe@gmail.com
( No. 10, Lane 80, Shida Road, Taipei City)
羅斯福 總編輯；韓良露
顧問：朱全斌
路三段
責任編輯：楊于萱
文字編輯：洪尚鈴 林雨柔 楊佳芬 陳怡諭
24
龍泉街
10號
師大路
106 台北市師大路80
師大藝術公園
浦城街
Information
師大路80巷
插畫：林凌寧 呂明熹
美術設計：林凌寧
企劃出版：南瓜
捷運台電大樓站