The Brewers Journal December 2019, iss 10 vol 5

Page 1

The magazine for the professional brewing industry

Brewers J o u r n a l

December 2019 | Volume 5, issue 10 ISSN 2059-6650

GIPSY HILL

tHE SOUTH LONDON SUPREMO’S NEXT CHAPTER 18 | BREWERS CONGRESS 2019: tHE FULL REVIEW

48 | CONTRACT PACKAGING: THE OPTIONS AVAILABLE

65 | LOW AND NO ALCOHOL: GRASP THE OPPORTUNITY



le ad e r

Where next?

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019 eh? 12 months of introversion yet looking forward. And in beer, like life itself, that can mean all manner of things. So let’s start by defining craft…. I joke, of course. Much of what I write here is informed by discussion and debate at the recent Brewers Congress and Brewers Choice Awards we hosted in London at the end of last month. Regular emails and calls with the incredible individuals that took part in the event progressively enveloped my existence in the weeks and months leading up until the 28th November. And clichéd as it may be, I wouldn’t have had it any other way. What a privilege it is to work alongside people you’ve looked up to, and admired, for so long. John Keeling, a legend in brewing and one of the hosts of The Brewers Congress, wisely once said that London Pride (the flagship beer of his former employer, Fuller’s) should be like a good friend. You might spot that they’ve had a haircut, or if they’re wearing a new outfit, but you’ll always know it’s them. He outlined how minor variations in the ingredient bill can promote subtle nuances in the beer. Following that I’ve always observed that in London Pride and actively enjoy discovering it in other beers, too. In a conversation prior to The Brewers Congress Mark Tranter, founder of Burning Sky, said he likes to do similar when it comes to the annual releases of their celebrated beers, taking a thrill from minute changes and how those beers have improved owing to those amendments. Anyone that got to try the brewery’s 2019 Cuvée at the Brewers Congress event would no doubt agree. With that in mind, there can’t be many beers in the modern brewing landscape that have made such a positive, indelible, mark as Keller Pils. As London Pride revels in the way it matures, Keller Pils is following a similar path. Joel Mellor, co-founder of London’s excellent bar The Hop Locker (located behind The Southbank Centre on Friday-Sunday) will attest that I cannot drink there without commencing with, or just sticking on, Keller Pils. And if anyone has had the unfortunate experience

brewersjournal.info

editor's choice Velo Mitrovich takes an in-depth look at bitterness and the role it plays in the beers we drink - page 50

of meeting someone from a band you love to find out they’re a complete ass, then spending time with Lost and Grounded Brewers is as far removed as you’d ever get from that. Headed up by fantastic Alex Troncoso and Annie Clements, they are gracious, engaging, generous and bloody good at what they do. Love you guys!! A genuine highlight of my beer experiences in 2019 was tasting the beers at Bohem Brewery. I must confess, I’ve never been to the Czech Republic but I’ve enjoyed beers stemming from this vaunted locale. But trying beers, even those not at the brewer’s desired level of tank maturation, blew me away. It was a rainy, dull day in London during my visit, but I was instantly transported to a sun-kissed beer garden in Prague. We’ve all been there, you open a beer to share and the aroma hits everyone. There’s a knowing look. Then the first sip, rather than bringing you back down to earth with a bang, elevates the whole experience further. Death By Caribbean Chocolate Cake, a beer from the 2019 iteration of the popular series by Siren

December 2019

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L EADER

Craft Brew, did just that. Boozy chocolate milk that could make you squeal with joy. The addition of Sean Knight to the Siren team was a superb move and he went straight in to my Fantasy Brewing Team for the upcoming season. Adding his own stamp to existing beers has been an instant success and I’m certain his own recipes will have a similar impact. There are various curves that exist in the brewing spectrum. I’m not sure what exact point Manchester’s Cloudwater are at on their journey but what I do know is that the beer they’re producing is, in my opinion (as this all is) the best they ever have. Pale, DDH Pale, Small Pale, IPA, DIPA? “Completed it, mate” as the blonde fella from The Inbetweeners once said. But if the people that tell me I look like him on an almost daily basis could give it a break that would be grand…. There is a lack of pomp and ceremony about the beers they’re putting out. But series’ such as the various expressions featuring Yakima and NZ hops were a triumph. Good Things for Everyone, a recent Triple IPA was divine, too. I look forward to see what aces they have up their collective sleeves for 2020. Northern Monk winners of ‘Brewery of the Year’ at the inaugural Brewers Choice Awards, evidently adopt the mentality that “You miss every shot you don’t take”. It’s therefore handy that they have the striking accuracy of Premier League striker Sadio Mané and not that of Huddersfield Town, beloved of head brewer Brian Dickson (sorry chief). Their Sour Cherry IPA collaboration with Left Handed Giant, Take Care of Business, was a joy and the Refectory tie-up with London’s Gipsy Hill was a masterclass in the art of Double IPA. Core Pale Ale Faith is tasting better than ever, too. That beer was brewed at the London brewery and if you’re lucky they may, or may not, still have some available at their fantastic taproom. An expansion, brand refresh, and new beers have been the order of the day at the excellent Gipsy Hill and it’s great to see them flourish further. While we’re in London, hats off to Jon Swain and the team at Hackney Brewery. Their core beers continue to impress while the limited releases hit the spot. The lager they brew is the definition of quaffable and I love it so. The Skyline Project, a tireless example of a collaboration initiative, was truly excellent and it was impressive to see so many New York breweries pair up with London counterparts. The beers were brilliant, also.

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December 2019

Many of the beverages mentioned above were mused on at Ealing’s excellent Owl and the Pussycat or imbibed at A Pint of Hops, a new opening for West London in 2019. Founded by Marius Andrici, the Actonbased bottle-shop is a superb spot for take-outs or drink-in and I visit far more than is healthy. Oh well ... old dog new tricks and all that. I’m also never failed to be impressed with the wealth of beers that Sean Looney procures for Micro Beers in Sheen, coupled with the fantastic environment to enjoy them in. The same can be said for Linda Birch and the ace Brewery Market in Twickenham. Looking further afield, a visit to Nova Scotia in Canada was a complete pleasure. A province defined by the beauty of its landscape and in the kindness of its people. Beers such as A Dimension in Time by Tusket Falls and Galaxy IPA by Propeller were simply superb. And in Chicago, Half Acre’s brewery was a mind-blowing space and brewery-fresh Daisy Cutter was something to behold, while Hopewell produced some the cleanest beers I’ve ever tasted and I need to visit again sooner rather than later. Unreal… much like this year’s London Craft Beer Festival. Another year, another success. Superbly organised and held at a great venue. It’s truly a highlight of the UK beer calendar and long may it continue. There’s no pics because there was too much drinking and chatting to be had. The same as Dark City at the aforementioned Northern Monk Refectory in Leeds. Basking heat and brilliant company. Boom! And more recently, the debut ‘Good Harvest’ event hosted by Mondo Brewing Company in Battersea, London, was a brilliant success. Great beer, fantastic chilli from outfits such as Prairie Fire and Dishoom and ace live Bluegrass was the perfect antidote to a dreary autumnal Saturday. These article is by no means a comprehensive overview and, as I said at the start, it has been a real privilege being able to work with so many talented people. So on that note, thanks again to everyone that has supported the magazine in 2019 and everyone that has been involved in our events in any capacity. We’re busy plotting bigger and better things for 2020 and I hope next year is a great one for you all!

Tim Sheahan Editor

Brewers Journal


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December 2019

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contents 44

58

20

60

14

Cover story 38 - How London's Gipsy Hill Brewing Company is pressing ahead following a whirlwind 2019 that involved a brand refresh and brewery expansion

Brewers choice awards 14 - The full lowdown on all of the winners from the inaugural Brewers Choice Awards

34 - The canning and labelling boon 36 - Sustainability and the role in your brand

sector | Contract packaging Brewers Congress 2019 16 - The Brewers Congress 2019 in review

Dear John

20 - John Keeling takes a break from his travels to gaze into his crystal ball

trending | cbd 22 - Velo Mitrovich asks if CBD will ever have a role to play in the world of beer

44 - The raft of products and services available in the contract packaging and brewing sector

Focus | Bitterness 50 - Understanding the human side of bitterness and your relationship with customers

focus | design 58 - Making a splash with effective design

crossing continents | russia comments 29 - Energy savings and how you can benefit 32 - Where to look when entering the industry 33 - The importance of brewery flooring

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December 2019

60 - A record-breaking brewery install in Russia

Science | low and no alcohol 65 - Grasp the low and no alcohol opportunity

Brewers Journal


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SIBA publishes manifesto for small independent brewers T

he Society of Independent Brewers (SIBA) has set out

to help pubs on disproportionate business rates, a more

a manifesto it hopes will “turbocharge” independent

specific help in the short to medium term, and a Treasury

brewing in the UK. Launched ahead of the General Election, which took place on 12 December 2019, SIBA urged the next

review into the differential between business rates of small brewers and global brewers When it comes to market fairness, there should be a

Government to adopt 15 policies, covering five key areas,

commitment to ensuring a real, free and fair market rent

that will encourage growth and sustainability for the UK’s

only option for tied tenants in the Pubs Code, remove the

craft brewers.

‘significant price trigger’ for small brewery beer within the

It said the UK has been at the forefront of the Global craft beer revolution, but there are huge challenges now facing the industry – from the duty burden, the review of

Pubs Code and ensure HMRC enforcement teams are properly resourced to tackle duty fraud. Finally, there should be a solid deposit return scheme

Small Breweries’ Relief and an unfair business rate regime

for cans and bottles, with one scheme for the whole of

to unfair practices and difficulties getting products to

the UK. This should start with plastic initially, and on-

market.

the-go products and de-minimis thresholds for small

The manifesto is therefore calling on the new Government to introduce 15 policies. With Small Breweries’ Relief (SBR), it wants positive

producers. James Calder, chief executive of SIBA, said: “Independent brewing in the UK has been in the

reform of the curve above 5,000hl of annual production

ascendency, with so much choice, quality and flavour in

to encourage growth, no withdrawal of any relief for

the UK beer.

any small brewer so protecting jobs, businesses and

"However, there are huge challenges facing the sector

investment and clarity on control, connected parties and

and the next Government is in a position to secure the

collaborations

sustainability and future of the UK’s craft brewers.

Regarding alcohol duty, a commitment to freeze beer

“Therefore, our manifesto urges the next Government

duty for the duration of the next Parliament, bring cider

to adopt our 15 policy initiatives which will turbocharge UK

duty into line with beer duty and an alcohol duty review

independent brewing. I would encourage all candidates

that protects the UK’s national drink, beer.

in the election to show their support for independent

For business rates, it said it wants a long-term solution

Begin with a great beer brand

W

brewing and back our plans.”

“There are many examples of great brewers who have built their businesses through a market-led approach,

ith more than 2,250 breweries and in excess of

as opposed to being production driven. Using brewing

over 10,000 beer brands in the UK, you should

contractors has enabled them to focus on brand building,

focus your business around a great beer brand, a

whilst still being able to provide consistently great beers

branding expert has said.

that have been brewed to their unique recipes.

Approximately 3,000 brands have launched this

“The beer market has become highly competitive and

decade, which make for sobering numbers for those

dynamic which means that brewers must work smarter

about to enter the beer market or who are planning

and faster to ensure that they can capitalise on the

expansion - getting your investment priorities on track

fast-moving consumer demands and develop long term

can be a dilemma.

equity.”

Myles Pinfold is founder and strategic director of

He said that whilst providing great and flavoursome

WPA Pinfold, experts in branding for the drinks sector,

beer is a given, to satiate the needs of today’s drinker,

said for many brewers, the temptation is to invest in

having an outstanding brand that can adapt to an

brewing equipment and forego the marketing and brand

evolving market is also essential.

essentials. Pinfold said: “The question is, do you actually need

"The commercial reality is that brewers need to develop loyalty with the consumer through outstanding

your own brewery in a sector where there is already

beers that have their own unique recognisable presence

plenty of spare capacity?

on-bar and on-shelf," Pinfold added.

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Brewing apprenticeship scheme launched

A

new brewing apprenticeship scheme designed to attract and inspire budding brewers from diverse

backgrounds has been launched. The initiative, from Laine Brew Company, wants individuals to join its business of more than 60 bars and brewpubs from Brighton to Birmingham. The Laine Brew Company Apprenticeship Scheme is provided by the Hospitality Industry Training Brewer scheme in conjunction with the University of Nottingham’s International Centre for Brewing Science. Laine is offering one apprenticeship each year the chance to learn the various skills and crafts in beer brewing. The first apprenticeship will begin in May 2020, based in either London or Brighton for approximately 18 months. Laine said it was taking learnings in diversity from the US craft sector and last month, they hosted American beer brewer and blogger Megan Stone. Stone is a brewer from the USA and runs the popular Instagram account @isbeeracarb. She has brewed at a number of leading US breweries such as Modern Times in San Diego and Duclat in Baltimore. She said: “In the US, I’ve learned you have to fight and

invite people in is a fabulous move. More perspectives in

be pushy to get on in the sector. No-one necessarily gives

the beer making process – from people coming together

you permission as a female or as a person of colour. As a

– all unique in their own way - will give us new tastes,

young gay woman, I still have to constantly prove myself

inspirations and influences and that is not just a positive

to be worthy of a place in the industry.

way to go – it is the right way to go and we can all benefit

“Laine launching an apprenticeship scheme to literally

– workers, colleagues, friends and drinkers.”

Brewing Services course celebrates 30th year

B

brewing practice.

course with attendees from across the brewing industry

own brewing consultancy for micro-brewers in 1988, and

and from all corners of the UK taking part in the four-day

Geoff Woollons, the owner and Head Brewer of Malton

residential course in York.

Brewing Co, who between them had over fifty years of

rewing Services Ltd has celebrated the 30th anniversary of the ‘Fundamentals of Mini-Brewing’

Brewing Services launched the first Fundamentals of

The course was set up by David Smith, who started his

brewing experience.

Mini-Brewing course at Malton Brewery Co. in October

David suggested to Geoff that what the fledgling

1989. It has run twice a year in every year since, making

small-scale brewing industry needed was a dedicated

it the longest running training course in the UK for those

training course for those working in breweries or thinking

working in small commercial breweries.

of entering the industry.

Over the past 30 years they have explained the

They found that many novice brewers were simply

intricacies of the brewing process to hundreds of brewers

shown how to brew and how to follow the basic steps of

and potential brewers, all eager to learn more of the

the process.

theory that under-pins the brewing process. The course, which has been described as ‘the course

The main purpose of the Fundamentals from the outset has therefore been to fill in the gaps in brewers’

designed by brewers for brewers’, covers the basic theory

knowledge and understanding of the brewing process,

of the brewing process, from raw materials through to

helping them to get to grips with not only the how but,

packaging and QA, looking at what constitutes good

more critically, the why.

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December 2019

Brewers Journal


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Welsh brewery improves mash quality with conveyor investment

G

reat Orme Brewery has improved the quality of its mash following the investment in new conveying

ideal solution for this particular issue. The receiving hopper which can be fabricated from mild or stainless steel, is attached to a food-grade

technology. The brewery, a 12.5 barrel outfit, made the investment after it moved to new premises in a bid to boost capacity. Founded by Jonathan Hughes in November 2005,

polyethylene tube. Situated within it is the only moving part of the conveyor, the stainless steel spiral which draws the grist to the discharge chute.

the new facility presented Hughes with a challenge. He

The F75 UniFlex Conveyor has made a difference to

needed to raise Malted Barley from one level to another

the production and the company as Jonathan goes on to

in its simplest form without damaging the Barley, but long

explain.

enough to reach from the dry raw materials room into the

He said: “It’s eased the use of lifting the upper grist case. This has involved reducing the dangers of manual

brewing room. He said: “It is very important that the dry raw materials are kept away from the dampness of the brewing room itself and so we have to keep them in separate rooms, otherwise this spoils the dry materials�. “The volume of materials being used at the old plant was around one third of a ton and now it’s a lot closer to

handling significantly, so has speeded up that end of the process as well. “The other benefit is because we are able to raise from a small level to a high level through the new UniFlex conveyer it allows us to get a better quality mash. “The other alternative was to just throw the bag of dry

two thirds of a ton. This can’t be mixed by hand so needs

materials in, but that would more than likely get a fairly

a mechanical way of doing it so it can be more efficient�.

insufficient mash which would then reduce the overall

Following a discussion with UniTrak Powderflight’s Phil Booth, he decided the F75 UniFlex Conveyor was the

production volumes, by this process we can obtain better efficiency of the grain we are using�.

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December 2019

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Welsh independent breweries enrol in professional brewing curriculum

A

Aberdare.

professional brewing curriculum organised by the Welsh

part in the training was really beneficial for us and we’re

Drinks Cluster in partnership with Food Skills Cymru.

very grateful to be one of the first to have the chance.

selection of Wales’ independent brewers have become the first in the nation to enrol in a

Ten of the leading brewers from across South and

Commenting on the training Davies, said: “Taking

We walked away from the first session with new ideas,

West Wales have taken the step up to creating the

excited to see how the science of better brewing could

perfect pint, as they undertake a rigorous training

be applied to our beer.

programme that will enable them to help ensure that

“The ability to learn about new processes and

Wales will continue to produce some of the UK’s finest

incorporate the results of Brewlab’s research into our

beer and ale.

brewing has shown immediate results.

Though the experts from Greys Trees Brewery,

“It’s also rewarding to confirm that our existing

Felinfoel Brewery, Boss Brewery, Bragdy Twt Lol (the

techniques, processes and equipment are already

Treforest Brewery), Tomos a Lilford Brewery, Llanllyr

meeting the high standards we should be aiming for. I can

Source and Bluestone Brewing, have already won

only speak for ourselves, but I think all brewers looking to

numerous awards between them, the opportunity to gain

ensure consistent quality would benefit from taking part in

the latest techniques and scientific knowledge is what

this training.”

separates the ambitious homebrewers from the world’s brew masters. Arranged by the Welsh Drinks Cluster’s Beer and

The brewers are set to return to complete their training in the New Year, but they are just the first that will have the chance to gain the knowledge and understanding

Cider Group and Food Skills Cymru, the four-day training

that it still largely the preserve of major largescale

course, which is split into two two-day courses, is

breweries.

designed and delivered by experts from Brewlab, one of the UK’s foremost training academies. Thanks to the course, which was hosted at Rhymney Brewery in Blaenavon, the Welsh brewers will be able to

Later this year, the Welsh Drinks Cluster and Food Skills Cymru will facilitate further training sessions across West and North Wales. One of the organisers behind the introduction of the

gain the highest levels of fermentation techniques and

industry leading training here in Wales is Mark Grant,

microbiological understanding employed by the world’s

who leads the Beer and Cider Group as part of the Welsh

most established producers.

Drinks Cluster.

One of the first brewers to take part in the Drinks

Grant said: “By supporting Welsh brewers to access the

Cluster’s flagship training scheme was Ray Davies,

knowledge, training and skills, we hope to ensure a level

the founder and head brewer at Grey Trees Brewery in

playing field that will help our Welsh industry grow."

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December 2019

Brewers Journal


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Changes at the Top at Norwich City of Ale

A

fter nine years at the helm, during which time

breweries in the wider region – and ensured that the City

Norwich’s City of Ale festival has gone from strength

rose to prominence on the beer map of Britain.

spend more time with her research interests.

confines of a static festival, reaching the wider community

to strength, co-chair Dawn Leeder is stepping down to City of Ale pioneered the concept of a beer festival

“Dawn and Phil’s idea of promoting beer beyond the by engaging both pubs and breweries was novel at the

taking place in multiple venues across a town or city. Set

time. There are now similar events in at least a dozen

up in 2011, it was the country’s original Beer Week.

British towns and cities – all generating support for pubs,

It has been driving business into pubs in Norwich and showcasing beers from across the region ever since. Ale trails alone generated over 11,000 audited pub visits during the 2019 City of Ale festival.

breweries and local economies. The impact of City of Ale has been profound.� David Holliday from Norfolk Brewhouse has become as a new City of Ale director, and he and Phil Cutter now

Together with Phil Cutter from The Murderers pub,

co-chair the organisation. He will be involved in the overall

Dawn co-founded and co-chaired this ground-breaking

running of the festival and will be taking over the key role

event. For nine years she gave five months of her life into

of brewers’ co-ordinator.

its organisation. “With no professional attachment to the beer or pub

Leeder concluded: “I leave City of Ale in exceptionally good hands. Phil, David and Frances (from Red Flame)

industry, and the giving freely of her time, Dawn’s really

form an incredibly strong and capable nucleus that will

was a labour of love,� said Cutter. “It was an extraordinary

allow the festival to develop and prosper. Under their

gift to pubs, breweries, beer lovers - and Norwich.�

guidance and leadership, the 10th festival celebrations

Adding his tribute to Dawn and her achievements,

next year will truly be something special. There is fantastic

renowned beer writer Roger Protz added: “Dawn Leeder

support from Norwich BID and Farnell Clarke plus a host

radically raised the profile of pubs in Norwich and

of other local business supporters to help achieve this.�

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December 2019

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Constellation drops Ballast Point

T

he USA’s third largest brewery owner has announced

to transition the business to an owner that can devote the

it has signed a deal to sell-off Ballast Point Brewery

resources needed to fuel its future success.

Convicts Brewing Company.

to focus more fully on maximizing growth for our high-

to a relatively unknown company, Chicago-based Kings &

“At the same time, this decision allows Constellation

While the financial terms of the deal have not been

performing import portfolio and upcoming new product

disclosed, according to Bloomberg, Constellation had

introductions, including Corona Hard Seltzer, scheduled

written down the brand multiple times, citing increased

to launch this spring.”

competition, most recently estimating the trademark’s fair

“We’re excited to welcome the team at Ballast Point

value at $17 million in an October quarterly filing, down

into the Kings & Convicts family,” said Brendan Watters,

from $223 million in early 2017.

Kings & Convicts’ chief executive officer. “We have

For Constellation buying the brewery four years ago

long admired the quality and spirit of Ballast Point’s

seemed like a ‘no-brainer’. Acquiring Ballast Point gave

brands and team. Ballast Point’s best-in-class brewing

Constellation a quick entry into the craft beer industry.

standards will remain unchanged, delivering the same

However, things did not go as planned through a

high-quality, award-winning products the company has

combination of factors.

become known for over the years. Our goal is to leverage

These range from increased competition in the craft

Ballast Point’s deep know-how, talented and passionate

beer industry, younger beer drinkers moving on to hard

employee base, and outstanding operating team to grow

seltzers, a move towards “buying local”, and to what some

both Ballast Point and Kings & Convicts together.”

claim was poor management by Constellation. “Trends in the U.S. craft beer segment have shifted

As part of this agreement, Kings & Convicts will retain all positions within Ballast Point’s 560-person existing

dramatically since our acquisition of Ballast Point,” said

workforce, with plans to hire additional resources to

Bill Newlands, Constellation Brands president and chief

support the future growth of the business.

executive officer. He added: “Ballast Point remains one of the most

Kings & Convicts were founded by an Englishman and an Australian “on the freedom of anti-authority and the

iconic craft beer brands in the country and we’re pleased

spirit of fellowship”.

New Belgium sold to Lion

Director of Lion Little World Beverages.

T

Kim Jordan, Co-Founder of New Belgium Brewing said: he USA’s fourth largest craft brewer has been

“We will no longer be employee owned and it would be

acquired by Kirin-owned Lion Little World Beverages.

easy to see that as a drawback.

The deal, announced by press release, is expected

"But here’s another way to look at it. More than 300

to close at the end this year, all pending approvals by

employees are receiving over $100,000 of retirement

regulators and the Employee Stock Ownership Plan

money with some receiving significantly greater amounts.

(ESOP) in addition to other customary closing conditions. Besides ending New Belgium’s status as a craft brewery, as defined by the US Craft Brewers Association, it will also end the company being 100% staff owned. Since the company was established in 1991, it has grown to become a leading craft brewer with brands, such as Fat Tire Amber Ale and Voodoo Ranger IPA, in

“Over the life of our ESOP, including this transaction, the total amount paid to current and former employees will be nearly $190 million. "We will have helped a significant number of people realize the upside of having equity in something, being a part of the American Dream! “Little World is committed to strategies to broadly

addition to two state-of-the-art brewing facilities in Fort

share the wealth going forward, like profit sharing, best-

Collins, Colorado and Asheville, North Carolina, and a

in-class healthcare and a generous family leave policy.

national distribution platform.

Our on-site wellness clinic will carry on.

“We’re excited to welcome New Belgium Brewing into

"Continuing to practice the rest of what makes

our global family of craft beverage brands. Since meeting

New Belgium so cherished by its coworkers: a playful,

the New Belgium team, we’ve been incredibly impressed

loving vibe, a culture that encourages learning and

not just with their commitment to world-class beer and

experimentation, and an entrepreneurial spirit, will be up

the way they bring their brands to life, but their purpose-

to all of us.

led business model and connection to the community – all values we share at Lion,” said Matt Tapper, Managing

14

December 2019

"We are more than up for that challenge and Little World will support us all the way."

Brewers Journal


STEINECKER

Brewing technology #GermanBlingBling #Steinecker

We do more.


e v e nt s

brewers

cho i ce

awards

Brewers Choice Awards 2019:

The Winners

A raft of quality entries, a gruelling judging process and lots of happy faces. The Brewers Choice Awards took place in November and in doing so, recognised some of the best the industry has to offer.

T

category are collectively responsible for producing excellent beer, providing employment in their communities, industry collaboration and for driving the industry forward. Falmouth’s Verdant, Leeds' North Brewing, Londonbased Five Points, and Northern Monk, also of Leeds, had these qualities in spades and could all have been worthy

he winners of the inaugural Brewers Choice

winners. Judges awarded a ‘Highly Commended’ to Five

Awards, presented by The Brewers Journal,

Points, presented to its co-founder and head brewer Greg

were announced at a ceremony in London

Hobbs by Lallemand’s Andrew Paterson. However the

last month. Northern Monk, Bohem Brewery,

winner of the 2019 accolade went to Northern Monk, who

Alice Batham and John Hatch took home the

picked up their second award of the night, collected by

accolades at the first Brewers Choice Awards, which took place on the 28th November. The event, which took place after a sold-out Brewers

head brewer Brian Dickson and founder Russell Bisset. The final award of the evening was designed to recognise lifetime achievement. It recognised a brewer

Congress, recognised some of the finest talent the

that has played an integral role in the UK brewing industry

brewing industry has to offer.

and the brewery he brews in.

The first award of the evening ‘Young Brewer of The

The Ram Brewery is no normal brewery. Instead, it’s a

Year’, presented by SSV Limited’s Ventakesh Iyer, went

truly unique operation housed on the grounds of the old

to Alice Batham, formerly of Brewster’s and now of

Young’s brewery. A passion project that came into being

Thornbridge Brewery.

upon the news that Young’s was to shutter it’s London

In a category that also featured Brick Brewery’s

brewing business back in 2006, the winner of the Lifetime

Pete Vick, Donzoko Brewing founder Reece Hugill and

Achievement award has ensured that although the

Ben Addison, formerly of Purity Brewing, Batham was

brewery would be leaving the site, brewing wouldn’t.

recognised for her enthusiasm and drive, as well as her ability to make a mark in this challenging industry. London’s Bohem Brewery, Yorkshire’s Salt Beer Factory

In doing so, it guaranteed that Wandsworth would maintain the proud mantle of being home to the longest uninterrupted period of continuous brewing in the UK.

and Hartlepool-based Donzoko Brewing contested the

And for the winner of this, who celebrated his 30th

‘New Brewery of The Year’ category.

anniversary on site last September, it’s just the latest

Picking up the award, presented by Rankin’s Jim Rankin, was Bohem Brewery, an outfit judges applauded for its successful collaborations, the quality of the team’s

evolution of his love affair with Young’s and the brewing industry as a whole. He's the head brewer at Wandsworth’s Ram Brewery.

output and commitment to producing beers that were

He’s also the assistant brewer, head cleaner, packaging

authentic to style.

operative and everything in-between. The winner of the

Later in the evening, a wealth of breweries fought it out for the accolade of ‘Beer of The Year’. The shortlisted beers were Preferred Pronouns by

Brewers Choice Lifetime Achievement Award went to John Hatch. Tim Sheahan, editor of The Brewers Journal, said:

Brick Brewery, Pintle by Burnt Mill, Northern Helles by

“It was a real privilege to help recognise some of the

Donzoko Brewing, Jarl by Fyne Ales, Kapow! by Hackney

incredible talent the UK brewing industry has to offer.

Brewery, Lager by Hackney Brewery, Keller Pils by Lost

“Everyone involved demonstrated a wealth of quality

and Grounded Brewers, Petite Belgique by McColl’s

and picking a winner in each category was a predictably

Brewery, Dubbel by McColl’s Brewery, Transmission by

tough task. I also thank the judges for making it possible." u

North Brewing and Faith by Northern Monk. Another hotly-contested award, presented by Helen Duffy from drinks management software provider and award sponsor Drink It by Norriq, went to Leeds-based Northern Monk and their excellent Pale Ale, Faith. The outfits contesting the debut ‘Brewery of the Year’

16

December 2019

Right, clockwise from top: Team Northern Monk, Bohem Brewery's Petr Skocek collects the new brewery award, John Hatch and his lifetime achievement accolade, young brewer of the year Alice Batham and Greg Hobbs from Five Points picks up the brewery's commendation

Brewers Journal



e v e nt s

brewers

congress

Industry unites for Brewers Congress Staying relevant in a changing industry, refining your recipes, the role of beer in the community, and the need for big and small brewers to work together were just some of the themes discussed and debated at a sold-out Brewers Congress in London last month.

can survive adversity,” he told attendees. Dawn Maskell, head of the International Centre for Brewing and Distilling at Heriot-Watt used her talk to dispel myths around (ir)responsible drinking, conveying that beer is indeed the drink of moderation and yes, it is a myth that you can get drunk by putting your feet in a bath of alcohol. St Austell Brewery’s brewing director Roger Ryman

M

explained how ‘Tribute’ the celebrated Cornish Pale

featuring more than 20 of the industry’s brightest lights

Batham from Thornbridge, Yvan Seth from Jolly Good

while a complementary trade show showcased leading

Beer and Learn2Brew’s Nigel Sadler joined the speakers.

ore than 300 individuals from across

Ale was his first born at the brewery and shared his

the brewing industry packed out

thoughts on how cask producers can thrive in a changing,

the 2019 event, which took place at

challenging landscape.

The Institution of Civil Engineers in Westminster, London.

Delegates took in talks and lively panel discussions

and best-in-class manufacturers, suppliers and service providers. The day kicked off with a keynote from Miles Jenner,

The first session of the day concluded with a panel discussion looking at why we need to increase awareness and understanding in dispense and distribution. Alice

“Brew it well, keep it well, serve it well,” argued Sadler with the panel agreeing more needs to be done in terms of education and industry awareness.

head brewer and joint managing director of Sussex-based

Looking forward

Harvey’s Brewery. He regaled the audience with anecdotes from his career, explaining how he’s never happier then we he’s standing at the mash tun, thinking of how others before him have stood and watched over the mash. “There is a lesson to be learnt. Enjoy the heritage of the past but always remain relevant and strive to survive. You

18

December 2019

W

imbledon Brewery’s Derek Prentice, who celebrated a fantastic 50 years in brewing last year, said he has enjoyed seeing brewers

become brewers again, and not form part of the process.

Brewers Journal


brewers

“There is a passion for the art of brewing and these brewers are bonded by that fantastic camaraderie that

congress

e v e nt s

should be inclusive, innovative and aim to drive the industry forward.

exists in this great industry,” he explained. “It is something

Industry innovation

of a movement, and a respect for people’s talents. And what I have really enjoyed seeing is the way that brewers are taking inspiration from the past to differentiate themselves.” The second session of The Brewers Congress continued with an impassioned speech from Gabe Barry, education manager for Europe at Brooklyn Brewery.

A

lunch break afforded attendees the opportunity to network and liaise with the manufacturers and suppliers exhibiting in The Great Hall. These

included sponsors Lallemand, QCL, Unleashed Software

Her talk, on the positive impact beer can have on

and Yakima Chief Hops, as well as the BBPA, Brewing

people and place outlined that “where there is beer,

Services, Bruni Erben, Carling Partnership, Carbotech,

there are people, where there are people, there are

Charles Faram, Dotmatix, Enterprise Tondelli, Fermentis,

communities”.

GalxC, Moorgate Finance, NDL Keg, Rankin and Vigo.

Carlos de la Barra, brewer and quality manager at

The second half of the day started in fine fashion with

Omnipollo said you shouldn’t be afraid to fail and in doing

Burning Sky founder Mark Tranter who took several hours

so, it can make you a better brewer.

away from the brewery’s newly-commissioned canning

“It pays to take a step back, and look at those

line to argue that new beer releases should only be a

ingredients, adjuncts and styles you want to explore. Be

starting point and constant refinement of your skill makes

willing to embrace failure. Trial that recipe. If it’s not up to

you a better brewer.

scratch, repeat and do it again until you are 100% happy,” he said. Kamilla Hannibal, marketing and communications

“New is not a style. One-off beers are not a true reflection of a brewery’s capabilities. As much as we like doing new recipes, because we do them ourselves, they

manager at Yeastie Boys joined the panel to look at

should only be a starting point for something bigger.”

how the industry and consumer alike can benefit from

He adds: “These evolve over time, otherwise what’s the

collaboration.

point? I don’t see the value in having a beer only once,

The consensus was clear. The days of the photo opp collaboration should be behind us and collaborations

brewersjournal.info

Personally, I prefer to see development and achievement in the ways you can introduce variation and nuance in

December 2019

19


e v e nt s

brewers

congress

Where next?

beer. Especially your annual releases. There's excitement about vintages in wine. Why can’t we have that in beer?” Anders Kissmeyer of Kissmeyer and also head of craft beer creation at Royal Unibrew delivered an insightful take on how to succeed as a craft brewer in 2020. “Being a brewer in today’s brewing industry is much

T

he session concluded with a panel debating what next year has in store for modern beer. The speakers were joined by Deya founder Theo

more challenging than just a few years ago. The mature

Freyne, Verdant co-founder Adam Robertson and Wylam

markets for traditional lager beers get tougher and

director Dave Stone.

tougher, the craft segment is also becoming increasingly

Coupled with figures such as Mark Tranter and Yvan de

crowded - not just because of the increasing number

Baets, the panel featured brewers at the top of their game

of breweries, but also with the appearance of the big

and ones that have also adopted different approaches to

brewers on the scene,” Kissmeyer explained.

the business of brewing.

He added: “Remember your ‘raison d’etre’: You do

Regardless if you release a new beer each week or

things differently from the ‘big guys’, and the other

maybe only several a year, they agreed that if you’re

brewers out there are your friends and colleagues and

doing it for the right reasons, underpinned with a passion

not your competitors.”

for the style, then it would show in the beer, too.

The final talk of the session came from Yvan de Baets, co-founder of Brussel’s excellent Brasserie de la Senne. In a no holds barred speech he argued, as a brewer,

In the final break of the day, patrons enjoyed beers from a wealth of fantastic breweries. These included Bohem Brewery, Brixton Brewery, Brooklyn Brewery,

you should believe in yourself and brew the beers you

Budvar, Burning Sky, Deschutes, Deya, Donzoko, Epic

want to drink

Brewing, Fyne Ales, Gipsy Hill, Hackney Brewery,

“Too many brewers are listening to the beer geeks,

Harvey’s, London Fields Brewery, Marble, McColl’s.

when they should listen to themselves and to their hearts.

Mondo, North Brewing, Omnipollo, Pressure Drop,

For me, that means bitterness,” says De Baets. “Too many

Rothaus, Small Beer, Thornbridge, Wimbledon Brewery

are desperately trying to follow trends and make beers

and Yeastie Boys.

that garner social media attention. We prefer to try and open the consumers’ mind, making the beers we like and to try and convince them of those qualities, too.”

20

December 2019

These paired perfectly with the fantastic Soffle’s Pitta Chips and Billy Franks Jerky on offer. The day’s last session started with a lecture from North

Brewers Journal


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of Nottingham, said smaller and larger breweries should aim to work together more and benefit from the sharing of knowledge. He explained: “Flavour floats the boat. But there is so much that craft can learn from these multinationals and equally, big business has much to learn from independents.". “Look at someone like AB InBev producing Budweiser. If something goes wrong, they know what went wrong, how to document it and how to fix it. There is a wealth of knowledge out there when it comes to things such as cleanliness of base flavour. These big guys know how to make beer, simple as that.”

The threat to independence

T

he last talk of The Brewers Congress was expertly delivered by Sam McMeekin, co-founder of London’s Gipsy Hill Brewing. He looked at how

independent craft continues to grow but argued much needs to be done to protect this part of the industry too.

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“I compare and contrast the direction we are going compared to the US, with the added foresight of the position they are currently in,” he explained. “If independents are to continue thriving, they need support from industry bodies, consumers and the government. I want to see a truly independent trade body, who will lobby for the taxation and regulatory change we need, and become a powerful advocate for independence." These themes carried into the final panel discussion of the day, which also featured Hop Burns and Black co-founder Jen Ferguson, Wild Card’s head brewer Jaega Wise, Brewers Association’s Lotte Peplow and Donzoko founder Reece Hugill. Brewers that want to affect a change were encouraged to use their voice by attending meetings held by bodies such as SIBA while McMeekin said a merger between CAMRA and SIBA would change the UK landscape for the better. Regardless, it was agreed that change can only take place if people are prepared to work for it. Thanks to everyone that helped make this year a success and look out for news on 2020 in the coming weeks! u

brewersjournal.info

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21


d e a r

J o h n

2020

F orecast

Crystal Ball Gazing While John’s travels may have dried up in Winter, his passion for beer has not. Here, he shares his thoughts on what the UK beer scene may look like in the next 12 months and beyond.

brewer but a genuinely good person, too. Mike Siegel of Goose Island was the main instigator behind this beer. He got hold of me some years ago to help brew an ESB in Chicago. Something I jumped at, of course. Mike is a great brewer too and was very kind to both me and Symone. He also got the famous brewing historian Ron Pattinson, another good friend, involved.

by John Keeling

I

So, what did the beer taste like? What most people who taste this beer will notice the sharpness or tart

t might come as a surprise that since my return

flavour. This was not unusual for beers brewed in the past.

from Belfast I have been reducing my travel greatly.

Sour was a natural flavour in beer. Sour is now part of the

In fact, my only trip was to go to Manchester

to visit Tandleman (Local CAMRA chairman and deputy organiser of the Manchester Beer and Cider

flavour spectrum in modern beers and we, as drinkers, are enjoying it. But what does this project tell us about the future? This

Festival). Well, I have had to recharge my batteries and

was a great project, sponsored by a huge brewery and

what’s more, London is a good city to enjoy yourself in.

helped out by a brewer from an independent brewery

There’s been lots of good concerts to go to such as

and an historian. This beer would not have happened

Bill Frisell, Steve Reich at the Royal Albert Hall, Stravinsky

without Mike and Goose Island. So, what should the

with the LA Phil, Herbie Hancock and the Art Ensemble of

relationship between big brewer and small brewer be?

Chicago at the Barbican and finally, Dweezil Zappa at the

At brewer level it is easy. Most brewers are gregarious

Royal Festival Hall. We also did a tour of forgotten London

and love getting together. That is why at the London

visiting the old disused Aldwych station. I also went to see

Brewing Alliance all brewers are welcome. In fact, bigger

The Man in the White Suit and remember the film with Alec

brewers tend to be very helpful when it comes to running

Guinness well.

training courses and festivals. The LBA does not involve

So, I have not been travelling very much and Symone has got herself a job as a tour guide at Fuller’s (so if you do a tour with her say hi.) Anyway, I need her to earn some money before we jog off on our travels again. So rather than travel I have been thinking. In fact, I have been using my Crystal Ball. It seems a good time to

itself with the commercial side of brewing and that is where the friction between breweries is evident. So, my first prediction is that brewers will continue to do what brewers always do. That is drink together and swap ideas. Despite what they are advised by people like directors, marketeers, owners and others.

make some predictions for the future. Plus, drinking beer

I also was at the Brewers Congress, organised by

is good for the little grey cells too. Or so a certain Belgian

The Brewers Journal, where I had a great time (drinking

tells us.

with my fellow brewers). There was a great idea from

I have also been able to catch up with friends and

Sam McMeekin of Gipsy Hill. It revolves around the

to that end, I went to the launch of Obadiah Poundage.

independence of craft beer and how SIBA and CAMRA

It’s beer brewed to an ancient recipe and brewed by an

could combine to ensure that this remains a thriving

ancient brewer in the form of Derek Prentice. Now, Derek

part of the beer scene and isn’t swallowed up by the big

and I go back a long time and not only is he a great

brewers.

22

December 2019

Brewers Journal


2020

So, my second prediction is that SIBA and CAMRA will get their mojo back. SIBA will concentrate on gaining benefits for its members including properly targeted tax breaks designed for small local breweries. CAMRA will help with this and this should put the campaign back into CAMRA. They will, of course, represent the drinker in this and not the brewery, but these interests frequently overlap. So, I went to Manchester and met up with Peter Alexander aka Tandleman. What did we drink and what did we talk about? Yep you guessed it, cask beer. What is the future for cask? My last prediction is that cask will continue to decline in volume until CAMRA can ride to its rescue again. It needs a massive tax break with a reduction of 20p per pint in duty. Something big like that will both save cask and give CAMRA the campaign it needs to galvanise it. I have also been tweeting and enjoying some really good pub lunches with friends.

brewersjournal.info

F orecast

d e a r

j o h n

Brewers will continue to do what brewers always do. That is to drink together and swap ideas John Keeling

One of the things I did tweet was that a brewer can’t

really be a brewer till they fine tune a beer and brew it consistently. This was really about learning to love a beer all year-round, not just brewed once and forgotten. In fact, I don’t think you can be a proper beer drinker

until you appreciate a beer throughout its seasons. u

December 2019

23


tr e n d i n g

cbd

and

beer

Confusion, befuddlement & distraction: The CBD debate Is it a snake-oil scam, a placebo, or something we’ll all be using soon for everything from anxiety attacks to joint pain? Regardless, is taking a dose through a can of beer the way to go? Velo Mitrovich reports

makes you pity those serious about CBD research. With a medical dose, does it help treat severe childhood epilepsy syndromes that do not respond to antiseizure medicines? That’s a most definite ‘yes’ says Harvard Medical School. Does it cure cancer? That’s a most definite ‘no’. And everything in that wide, wide between such as anxiety, sleep disorders, and chronic pain? That’s a most definite

by velo mitrovich

‘maybe’. Absolutely no surprise here, Gwyneth Paltrow in a proponent of CBD, stating that taking CBD helps

A

her through the “hard times”. “It doesn’t make you

the sublime to the ridiculous, which at times

being made there.

television commercial shows a driver

stoned or anything, just a little relaxed,” she told one

going down the road, muttering away

beauty website.

how 2019 is the year of confusion.

The Marshmallowist, has several flavours of CBD

comparison website, it might as well

infused marshmallows because “who isn’t into CBD

be for cannabidiol (CBD) products. Health claims are being made ranging from

24

Leeds-based gourmet marshmallow company,

While it is for an insurance price

December 2019

these days.” It promises that you’ll feel the effects immediately upon eating. What effects? No claims

Brewers Journal


cbd

and

beer

tr e n d i n g

Regardless of what it does or does not do, beer makers on both sides of the Pond are cashing in on the hype and adding CBD to their brew. Should you be jumping on the bandwagon as well? TBJ recommends highly that you sit this one out for at least the time being until the dust settles. If you think 2019 was the year of confusion, just wait until 2020. In the USA, there is nothing uniting the states when it comes to cannabis products. The federal government sees the use of marijuana and associated products as either illegal or existing in a very grey, dodgy part of the law. Over half the states, however, have passed their own laws with 10 allowing for full-blown cannabis recreational and medical use, and 20 additional states allowing for its medical use, which is extremely easy to obtain. If your CBD is hempderived, it’s federally legal in all 50 states. If your CBD is refined from cannabis, that’s another can of worms. Federally speaking, it’s illegal in all 50 states – like cannabis. Just to make sure there are no ifs, ands, or buts with cannabis derived CBD, three states have come out and specifically outlawed it. And the US Food & Drug Administration? They have announced it has declined to add

cannabis ingredients into further uncertainty. The FDA on 25 November issued warning letters

cannabidiol to its “generally recognized as safe” list

to 15 companies that have marketed products

of ingredients and additives, throwing the market for

containing CBD, including one that sells peanut butter and tea, according to Food Processing Magazine. It said: “Based on the lack of scientific information supporting the safety of CBD in food, the FDA is also indicating today that it cannot conclude that CBD is generally recognized as safe (GRAS) among qualified experts for its use in human or animal food.” The statement cited concerns about potential liver injury, interactions with other drugs, drowsiness, diarrhea, and changes in mood. In other words, the FDA is saying that it will continue to consider CBD as a form of medicine and thus will not give blanket permission for it to be used in foods and beverages. But, we’re here, not there; so what. Ah, but things aren’t much clearer here. TBJ asked the Foods Standards Agency for its official position. We were told that they would get back to us later – as in ‘months’ later. CBD is still under discussion and existing laws could change, especially if Brexit takes place. As it stands right now, CBD is completely legal in the UK “provided it has been derived from an industrial hemp strain that is EU-approved” and does not contain THC – the chemical in cannabis

brewersjournal.info

December 2019

25


tr e n d i n g

cbd

and

beer

which gets you stoned. The EU – which we may or may not be a part of when this goes to print – sees CBD as a “novel food.” To be

people who expect good outcomes are more likely to see benefits. “People think it’s great for everything,” says cognitive

defined as this, CBD has to be shown as not causing a

neuroscientist Kent Hutchison of the University of

risk to public health; it’s not nutritionally disadvantageous

Colorado Boulder. “That can’t possibly be true,” he says.

when replacing a similar food; and it’s not misleading to

“But I do think it’s going to be great for some things. We

consumers. As a novel food, you can put CBD in beer,

just need to figure out what those things are.”

coffee, soft drinks, energy bars, gummies, mints, sweets,

Who is using CBD?

oils, capsules and oral sprays. There is a catch, however. Before adding CBD to beer or pub snacks, a Novel Food application needs to be filed and approved. This won’t come cheap because your product will be required to undergo a scientific risk assessment by the European Food Safety Authority. If you don’t, your food product is considered unsafe and can’t be sold.

A

s those further up the food chain debate in boardrooms if cannabidiol products are an emerging trend worth investing in or just a hype

soon to disappear, new research from US marketing firm Acosta finds that more than a quarter of US consumers

But, as far as TBJ can tell, no CBD retail product producer in the UK has followed these steps and according to MP Medic Pro, it doesn’t matter because no one is enforcing these rules in regards to CBD.

are just getting on and using CBD in all of its various forms. This is despite a lack of clear research proving any of their effectiveness.

You can easily import CBD into the UK and you don’t

Millennials most often use CBD products to ease

need a special license to sell it. The only requirement is

anxiety (31%) and for general wellness (30%), Acosta

that you cannot make any health claims regarding your

reported. Among Gen Xers and Boomers, these products

beer with CBD, but if you go into any High Street health

are most commonly used to alleviate joint pain (31% and

food store or pick up any muscle-building magazine, you

36%, respectively) and muscle pain (both 23%).

can see how companies dance around this by implying – not stating. This all sounds like a win-win-win so why is TBJ raining on the CBD beer parade? Because all these laws could be changing soon. If the FSA decides the hype surrounding CBD is real, then some real questions are going to be asked, requiring some real answers, which might end up costing you

Twenty-eight percent of consumers polled use CBD products on an as-needed (19%) or daily (9%) basis, stated the Acosta report “The CBD Effect: A Rapidly Emerging Consumer Trend.” Regardless as to who is using them or why, the study projects CBD product sales to consumers to hit in the USA $20 billion by 2024. [Let us throw this in right now. With many industry

some real money. How much is a dose for a specific

reports, you can do just as well in coming up with

medical condition? What are the side effects? How

future figures by throwing darts at a board covered with

much of a dose is being administered through a can of

numbers. In trying to compare the future CBD figure

beer? Entering the body though a beer medium, what

to what the US craft beer market will be worth in 2024,

percentage is actually being absorbed by a body? How

TBJ scoured research company after research company

does this vary between body size? Is there a difference

reports and found they differed by as much as $40 billion

between how it affects males and females? Can it affect

dollars. Here in the UK, the current value of CBD products

other medications? We could go on and on here.

is £300 million pounds and is expected to reach £1 billion

In the States, so far all messages of CBD’s purported amazing health benefits come from people who are in the

by 2025 – or so they say.] “Health ailments without a ‘one-size-fits-all treatment’

business of selling CBD products — not from scientists,

are quite common, and avoiding chemicals when it

says Margaret Haney, a neurobiologist who directs the

comes to health and self-care is important across all age

Marijuana Research Laboratory at Columbia University.

groups. CBD sales and projections show consumers are

According to the Hemp Business Journal, scientists still

turning to CBD for help, and demand is growing rapidly,”

don’t know all of the targets CBD hits in the human body,

according to Colin Stewart, senior vice president of

nor what effects it may have if any. Outside of successful

business intelligence at Acosta.

tests done with people with rare forms of epilepsy, large studies that compare CDB with placebos are rare. And, says the Journal, there is always the chance

By a large margin, CBD product users are Millennials (56%), men (48%) and college-educated (49% have a bachelor’s degree). Twenty-eight percent of users are

that for some people, CBD’s magic is made not by the

women, 32 percent are from Generation X and 15 percent

compound itself, but by a powerful placebo effect;

are Baby Boomers.

26

December 2019

Brewers Journal


cbd

and

beer

tr e n d i n g

In another survey by CFN Media, they found this year that women are the fastest growing consumers of hemp and cannabis products and are driving the surge in CBD consumption. Not answered in the survey is the method preferred by CBD users in taking the product, but in other reports, those using CBD for a specific reason look for product that gives a measured dose which works quickly and predictably.

Methods of consumption

I

f you’re telling your customers that getting a CBD dose through downing a cold one is an effective method, you are probably stretching things a bit, especially if

you are using CBD oil in your beverage. Cannabinoids are lipophilic molecules, meaning in plain English that they are able to dissolve in fats, but not in water. When consumed directly by eating or drinking, absorption rates are as low as six to 15 percent. A reason for this low absorption is when orally consumed, CBD has to be first digested by the stomach and then pass through the liver before entering the blood stream. Enzymes in the liver breakdown a further portion of cannabinoids before the body can absorb them. By the time the body is able to enjoy the benefits of CBD, one to two hours might have passed. If you are using an existing market water soluble CBD product, the absorption rates can differ depending on the quality of the product used with some quite low. Because of this, most people who are taking CBD for specific reasons, use alcohol-based extractions –

Hemp oil drops

tinctures. A few drops are placed under the tongue and is absorbed directly into the capillaries and mucus membranes of the mouth, bypassing the stomach and

specialised knowledge to use, it is easy to use for retail

liver.

product producers to incorporate in their product.

If you want fast, fast, fast absorption of CBD, nothing

Mixing alcohol and CBD

works as well as smoking or vaping. Unfortunately, no other method also comes with as many potential health risks as lung delivery. Colorado-based Kazmira, which is one of the world’s leaders in CBD and THC production, has recently developed PLASMA, which is a process concentrate water soluble CBD product. Kazmira claims its water soluble CBD mixture

W

hat happens when you mix alcohol and CBD – as in adding it to your beer. The short answer is, nobody really knows due to a lack

of research.

CBD and alcohol can interact if you take them within

composition is comparable to salt or sugar in water, while

four to eight hours of each other, says James Giordano,

colloidal compositions are comparable to milk in water,

professor of neurology and biochemistry at Georgetown

suspension is comparable to oil in water, and emulsion

University Medical Center. This means that if you have a

is comparable to soap and oil in water. For this reason,

drink with dinner then take CBD dab before bed, the CBD

mixture compositions that use colloidal, suspension, or

could have a stronger effect than it would without the

emulsion are not ideal for end formulations, says Kazmira.

alcohol.

The company says that Plasma has no noticeable

Since alcohol and CBD both relax you and lower your

impact on flavour, consistency, texture, or appearance

inhibitions, these effects could be especially strong and

in the finished product. Because it does not require any

long-lasting when you mix the two substances. “On CBD,

brewersjournal.info

December 2019

27


tr e n d i n g

cbd

and

beer

you’re very chill, very light-hearted, mellow. The alcohol

leaves can have concentrations of mercury, lead, arsenic,

will make that more intense,” Giordano says. “For some

and other heavy metals at a rate of 40 percent more that

people, it makes them very, very sedated.” For this reason,

the soil it’s grown in. Pesticides can also concentrate in

he doesn’t recommend the combination.

the leaves.

“Like anything else, as doses increase of either or both, you get yourself more into a problem,” he explains. “The more you drink, the more CBD you’re taking, you get a

In the States, people have become sick from CBD products. While the government and EU seems willing to look

potentiated effect that's greater than the effect of either

the other way with many aspects of CBD, and indeed it is

alone. The level of intoxication is going to be greater:

highly unregulated, one component of CBD they’re not

greater loss of control, inhibition, motor coordination, and

willing to ignore is the amount of THC in it. This should be

that becomes problematic.”

very close to zero. However, in one study in the UK, 45

Studies in which CBD seemed to help ward off the effects of alcohol, used CBD either as a topical gel or administered it around 30 minutes before drinking.

percent of all CBD products tested had an illegal amount of THC. While this has touched upon just a few things that are

With mixing it with beer, the amount of CBD that is

in a test report, there are close to around 20 that can all

actually affecting the drinker is hard to figure out. Green

make or break your day. If you go on the web, there are

Times Brewing says its High Flyer 4.3% ABV beer is

several sites that helps you understand CBD test reports.

“jammed packed” with CBD, which they clarify on their website as being 10mg. Northern Monk, in collaboration with Green Times, has made 7.2% ABV Green Heathen, also with 10mg of CBD. Is 10mg a creditable dose? Most human studies have used anywhere from 20 to 1,500mg per day. In a study

According to a report from the World Health Organization, “In humans, CBD exhibits no effects indicative of any abuse or dependence potential…to date, there is no evidence of public health related problems associated with the use of pure CBD.” You know, the WHO that sees danger in everything

published in Nature, a single dose of 600mg seemed to

from a piece of bacon to salt to the air we breathe. For

reduced anxiety. That would require drinking 60 cans of

it to come out and give something a green light, that’s

beer to get the same effect – which would probably kill

pretty rare and amazing.

you before the CBD affect sets in. With beer, especially Northern Monks 7.2%, you’d have

There is a huge amount of money being made with CBD products in the States and that same potential is

to suspect any feeling of relaxation and mellowness is

here. Many people have said that using CBD has made a

coming from the alcohol.

huge, positive change in their lives.

Something that TBJ finds worrying, if alcohol is

Some biotech companies are brewing the same

already a depressant and CBD helps you relax and sleep,

compounds found in CBD and THC in yeast, which will

combining the two would seem to give you a double

drive down the cost – no more fields being planted or

whammy for dream time. From a legal viewpoint, if a

greenhouses. Two of these companies have just signed

consumer was still under the drink drive limit, by your

deals, one worth $122 million and the other $100 million.

adding CBD to their beer, did you impact their driving? If you still want to put CBD in your beer and cash in

So why is TBJ such a skeptic regarding CBD? In looking at the weight lifting/body building industry for

on this craze, let us pass on one last warning to you. You

years, TBJ has seen ‘novel food’ items come and go, with

absolutely need to see third party Certificate of Analysis

people swearing by some for six months or a year, and

(COA) test results of the CBD product you are buying for

then moving on to the next big thing. At the end of the

your beer. In fact, let us repeat this, you absolutely need

day, none actually do anything for lifters. If you don’t put

to see third party COA test results for the CBD product

in the time and have the right genes, downing creatine or

you are buying.

‘Glandroids’ or bull testacies is a waste of time and money.

Why? It is because the levels of CBD you’re expecting in the product you bought, have a pretty good chance of not being at that level. A US study in 2017 found in retail

It’s just companies taking advantage of the naive and wishful thinkers. The vitamin/health food industry is exactly the same.

CBD products, 70 percent were mislabelled, either having

Mega-doses of Vitamin C and E were seen as highly

substantially more or less CBD than advertised. But,

beneficial, as was Omega-3. Now all three have been

unfortunately, this could be the least of your worries.

discounted.

Contaminants can enter throughout the entire hemp/

At this stage, CBD seems to be similar, with industry

cannabis growing and processing cycle. Let’s just touch

adding it to anything and touting its health benefits. Prove

on the growing cycle. Hemp has a habit of soaking up

to TBJ and its readers, with some genuine research, that

heavy metal contaminants from the soil. It’s so efficient in

putting CBD in beer is the way to go and we will gladly go

doing this, in Italy they grow hemp specifically for this. The

back to this subject. u

28

December 2019

Brewers Journal


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energy

waste

c o mm e n t

Using ultrasound to prevent energy wastage Breweries could be wasting thousands of pounds annually on the energy being lost as a result of compressed air or steam leaks, says Oliver Pogmore, of AVT Reliability. Here, he shows how ultrasound technology can help avoid energy waste and increase efficiencies.

capacity. The financial impact of these leaks can accrue significantly over time. As one example, based on 100psi, at a cost of £7/ million per m³ for one year (8,760 hours), a leak as small as 0.16cm can cost £846.00 annually. By doubling this to 0.32cm, the cost jumps to £2,721 annually. That’s just for one leak – and it’s not uncommon for a plant to have ten leaks or even 50 leaks. Air leaks also cause a drop in system pressure, which

by Oliver pogmore

C

can make air tools function less efficiently, adversely affecting production. By forcing the equipment to

ompressed air and steam are central to

run longer, leaks shorten the life of almost all system

brewing processes, whether a company is

equipment, including the compressor package itself.

producing the biggest commercial brands

Increased running time can also lead to additional

or a niche craft ale.

maintenance requirements and more frequent

They can be found at almost every

unscheduled downtime.

stage of production, from fermentation and mashing to

Steam leaks

cleaning, bottling and drying. When margins are tight and productivity key, it therefore makes sense to pay careful attention to the costs associated with these processes. In particular, it pays to focus on the leaks which are often considered a routine part of processes. Most leaks are small in nature, which makes them both

S

team leaks are typically found at valve stems, pressure regulators, connection flanges and pipe joints. If ignored, they can contribute to a

drop in system pressure, resulting in heat loss and lower

difficult to detect and easy to overlook or, in some cases,

operating efficiency. At a pressure of seven bar (100psi), a

simply to ignore. But the energy wasted as a result of

cavity measuring just 3mm can cause the loss of 25,000

them can be significant.

kg of steam per annum. Multiplying this by a typical

When considered collectively over the course of a

steam production cost of £5.30 per kilogram would incur

year they can cost breweries tens, if not hundreds, of

a loss of £132 a year. Again, this involves just one point of

thousands of pounds. To ignore them is to ignore the

emission.

potential for quick-win operational efficiencies, improved safety, extended equipment lifespan and long term savings. Leaks can be caused by a range of problems typical to any plant, including pipework corrosion, vibration from unsupported pipework, or insufficiently tightened fixings.

Leak detection using ultrasonic detection techniques Detecting leaks by normal visual or audible methods can be ineffective, especially when the leaks are small and set in the context of a noisy plant environment. Ultrasound circumvents both these barriers to pinpoint

But the end result is the same. The compressor runs less

emissions and prevent small leaks from turning into big

efficiently, more pressure is placed on the motor running

financial losses.

it, so more energy is needed to maintain continuous production.

During a leak, liquid or air moves from a high pressure to a low pressure and as it passes through the leak site, a turbulent flow is generated. This turbulence has strong

Compresses air leaks

ultrasonic components and typically the larger the leak, the greater the ultrasound level.

I

Ultrasound is a high frequency, short wave signal and

n a typical plant that has not been well maintained,

the intensity of the ultrasound produced by a leak drops

the air leak rate may equate to between 20 and

off rapidly as the sound moves away from its source.

30 percent of total compressed air production

The sound will therefore be loudest at the leak site.

brewersjournal.info

December 2019

31


C o mm e n t

energy

waste

Both steam and air leaks can be located using a simple handheld portable ultrasonic detector. This electronically

plant noises and to detect their precise location. This directional element also means that subtle

translates ultrasound frequencies down into the audible

changes in mechanical equipment can be detected

range, where they are heard through headphones and

early, before a machine gets to the point of failure. Pre-

observed as intensity and/or decibel (dB) levels on a

emptive action can be taken at the first sign of a leak,

display panel.

meaning energy loss is kept to a minimum and the risk of

The more advanced digital instruments contain onboard sound recording to capture sound samples

unscheduled downtime is reduced. A comprehensive overview of operations is

for spectral analysis, providing both visual and audible

central to any effective condition based maintenance

reporting. They are connected to data management

programme. The visual and audible reporting offered

software, so the logged data can be downloaded to a

by digital ultrasound allows for enhanced diagnostics

computer for analysis.

and intelligent decision-making. Users are able to review test results, compare current data with baseline

The benefits of ultrasound

data and trend changes. The reports produced can be shared widely and speedily, promoting a more cohesive approach to condition based maintenance programme.

E

nergy efficiency should be a key focus for any

Advances in ultrasound technology over the past

company keeping a close eye on both the

decade mean it can be used as both a ‘stand-alone’

bottom line and its commitment to International

inspection method and as an effective CBM screening

Standards Organisation (ISO) 50001 standard for energy

tool for bearings monitoring and other electrical and

management systems. Unidentified leaks can be their

mechanical applications. What all have in common is

silent enemy, nudging up energy use imperceptibly by

ease of use, faster and more efficient reporting and

reducing the efficacy of equipment, while at the same

greater insight into the condition of assets and what

time diminishing its reliability and adding to the risk

action is required to optimise their performance and

of unscheduled downtime and generating avoidable

reduce unnecessary expenditure.

maintenance costs. Ultrasound roots these bad actors

Perhaps the simplest analogy for the financial

out. Because the high frequency ultrasonic components

advantages this presents is that of fitting loft insulation

of leakage sounds are extremely short wave in nature,

in the home. The energy efficiency benefits may not be

and a short wave signal tends to be fairly directional and

instantly obvious - but just a few months down the line

localised, it is easy to separate them from background

the savings are certain to be strongly in evidence. u

32

December 2019

Brewers Journal


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C o mm e n t

E nter i ng

the

i ndustry

Balance is everything James Rylance is the head of R&D at Harbour Brewing, Cornwall. He's also currently supporting Dickies Workwear’s ‘Makers’ campaign, celebrating those who are passionate about their trade. Here, he shares his advice with those wanting to enter the world of brewing.

What are the positives

T

hey'll be different for everyone, but for me I get to think things into existence. I’m a Research and Development brewer which means I get to look

at the world of beer and form new shapes from it. I get to ask questions and see them through from conception through to the glass. It goes beyond that as well – on the

by James Rylance

farm I get to ask bigger questions about the impact of a brewery on our land and on the environment in general.

T

What biological and ecological systems can we work with

magically ends up in the drinkers’ glass overlooks all the

exist in a commercial environment. u

he beer industry is a pretty broad church in terms of the different experiences and

to make more exciting and tastier beer? I’m about to bottle a rhubarb sour beer that tastes so

skills required: a day in the life of someone

good because the rhubarb was grown in the old pig field

doing cellaring, social media or logistics

that were raised on the spent grain from the brewery. The

are completely different, but all equally as

pigs cleared and fertilized the ground and help produce the best rhubarb I’ve ever tasted. There aren’t many

important.

The image of a person brewing a beer which then

industries that allow that sort of big picture thinking to

hard work of every person in the chain. The more diverse the pool of people the industry draws from the stronger we'll be.

Words of wisdom

H

ow are your pigs?' We raised six saddleback boys on the farm, fed mostly on the spent grain from the brewery and waste ice-cream from the

ice-cream factory next door. They went to slaughter a few months back. Some people have a problem with that, but they had all the space, food and care a pig could wish for – if you’re going to eat meat, I think you can’t hide from what it involves. When it comes to are the potential pitfalls of pursuing a career as a craft brewer, the phrase 'Do what you love and you'll never work a day in your life' is very true. For a lot of people, myself included, brewing and beer is something they love. Something they loved before it became a job. When you love something, you give your everything to it, but when that comes with the stresses and strains of the beer industry – from production schedules to festivals and the need for constant growth – it can be challenging. Often, people don’t switch off, work too hard, drink too much and burn out. You have to have a life outside of brewing, find different hobbies and releases. As with beer itself, balance is everything.

34

December 2019

Brewers Journal


floor i ng

c o mm e n t

Don’t forget about your flooring Whether you’re brand new to the industry or you’re looking to give your existing flooring a refresh careful consideration must be taken when looking to install brewery floors. The floor forms the foundation of your brewery and is one of the most critical parts of your facility; you want the perfect balance of style and functionality. This guide from Resincoat can offer some advice on how to achieve a high quality flooring finish perfect for manufacturing whilst also creating a welcoming environment that customers will want to visit.

conditions. A full broadcast of anti-slip aggregate can help avoid slips, trips and dangerous accidents. Spills are inevitable and the porous surface of untreated concrete can quickly absorb liquids causing unsightly stains and if not cleaned thoroughly can result in the growth of bacteria. Resin flooring systems offer a smooth, non-porous finish minimising the risk of moisture and bacteria gathering. Easy to clean and maintain, resin systems can withstand powerful jet washing and other cleaning methods ensuring maintenance is quick and easy. Epoxy resin systems are quite useful when it comes to durability. Two coats are generally advised to create a nice, thick coating that is not vulnerable to cracks or scuffs. These systems are tough enough to withstand heavy machine and forklift traffic as well as protecting the

by Resincoat

substrate from dropped apparatus. Resin flooring can

A

be particularly important in high impact areas such as

resistance along with a highly durable design features

play an important role in representing your brand; resin

that are extremely important when it comes to your

systems generally boast a huge choice of colours with a

brewery floor.

stylish high gloss finish offering a fresh, clean appearance.

typical brewery floor starts with exposed

loading bays and areas with heavy machinery providing

concrete and although it may look sturdy,

excellent protection for the concrete. Generally epoxy

could quickly become damaged and worn

systems last for many years offering a long lasting,

with foot traffic and heavy loads. An epoxy

smooth design.

resin coating can easily protect your surface

whilst also providing a smooth, high gloss appearance. The epoxy coating can provide chemical and sugar

Depending upon your substrate an epoxy primer may

If your brewery has a front of house, tasting room or visitor centre creating a nice welcoming space that’s aesthetically pleasing is important. The flooring can

Additionally they’re easy to clean unwanted spills as well

be required. Not only will the primer help with adhesion,

as being scratch and stain resistant ensuring your flooring

it can also reduce air bubbles allowing for stronger

remain looking sharp.

bonding to the epoxy. If your concrete is brand new a

If you’re a brewery wanting to create something a little

damp tolerant primer may be required to protect against

more unique, metallic epoxy systems can be used to

moisture within the concrete.

create the appearance of polished concrete.

Slippery conditions are inherent in any brewery, so

Use warm earthy tones to create a modern ambience

careful consideration must be taken to ensure the flooring

with an attractive high gloss finish that’s certainly going to

is safe for both staff and visitors. Concrete can become

turn the heads of visitors. A metallic epoxy system can be

extremely slippery when wet so the best option is an

customised with your own colours creating a completely

anti-slip additive that can easily be added to resin flooring

unique appearance that’s highly durable and easy to

systems providing slip resistance in both wet and dry

clean. u

brewersjournal.info

December 2019

35


C o mm e n t

labell i ng

A new direction for craft beverages

The ongoing popularity of cans, and the labels that complement them, presents a raft of opportunities for craft beer producers, explains Richard White from label.co.uk.

the beer. There is less light pollution as the aluminium blocks this out, as well as being an effective barrier against oxygen which extends product freshness. The key though is the change in consumer mindset, not only from an environmental perspective but from a taste one. Brewers are driving the message that taste and quality is not reduced by putting their beer in a can.

by Richard White

Once this perceived barrier is overcome, there will

B

probably be no looking back. Innovation in can design

increasing focus on sustainability. Consumers are seeking

beer in cans is easier to carry and can often go places

products that have less of an effect on the environment

where beer in bottles can’t. Think festivals or hiking. Cans

and aluminium cans can be recycled forever. Amazingly,

are easier to take to the beach or on outdoor picnics.

it only takes 60 days for a can to be remanufactured and

In the past one barrier to canning for craft brewers

eer in cans has generally been associated

offers new opportunities and USPs for craft brewers -

with big brands, rather than craft beer,

new package designs, use of new coatings and finishes

but things are changing. Craft brewers in

such as UV inks, coloured ends and tabs, peel and reveal

the UK are following their US colleagues

labels, removable lids and even re-sealable cans. So,

and adopting the can as the packaging of

there are lots of things on the horizon to give the brewer

choice.

There are several reasons for this change not least the

back on the shelf!

individuality. For the consumer there is also the practicality aspect,

was the cost. A canning line is more expensive and takes

From a producer’s perspective, cans are lighter than

up significantly more floor space than many bottle-filling

bottles and more efficient to pack, so use less space and

machines. However, beer brands are now able to choose

are cheaper to transport, cutting down on trucks and

from a range of canning options which better suit their

CO2 emissions. Cans also cost less to produce. Craft

needs and budgets. The recent introduction of lower

producers may also want to consider the environmental

volume contract lines in the UK, as well as mobile lines for

impact of their secondary packaging, by using recyclable

hire which are cost effective and flexible has contributed

cartons for example.

to the growth in the use of cans.

Some brewers will also tell you that cans are better for

36

December 2019

One business model that has made cans accessible

Brewers Journal


labell i ng

c o mm e n t

to smaller craft brewers, for one-off or smaller brew

that functions throughout the filling and application

batches, is the rise of the mobile canner. This is ideal for

process as well as looking great at the point of sale. Here,

the craft brewer as the canning is done on their own site,

at the business we recommend polypropylene.

production facility or brewery, allowing them to keep

Polypropylene is a waterproof, polymeric material

control and feel confident about the handling of the beer.

that is synonymous with the beverage industry and is

We’ve worked with several canning outfits who have the

available as a white, silver or transparent film. White PP film can be used for full colour, high-impact

experience, and the passion, to do a great job. In terms of print production, there is no real difference

print and graphics. Both the silver and transparent

between bottle labels or can labels; both are custom

materials can be used to create a “no label” look and to

printed to a high quality, available on a multitude of

achieve a vibrant print, the white opaque ink can be used

industry-ready materials and produced on rolls for either

as an undercoat.

machine or manual application. The key thing to note is

This is an exciting time for craft beer brewers and there

that labels can only be applied to the central panel and

is much scope to continue their trademark for innovative

not over the ‘lip’ at the top and bottom of the can.

label design on cans, such as we have seen on bottles. As you can see from these Deviant and Dandy labels.

A number of the breweries we have worked with have chosen to print their brands main messaging and

It will also be interesting to see what the craft cider

colours on the cans so that they can be used across the

producers make of the can option, I suspect we will see a

entire product range but then differentiate their brews

rise in can usage here too. Consumers will continue to be engaged by new taste

with multi-versioned label printing on a transparent polypropylene material. This way the brewer benefits

experiences, natural ingredients, strong environmental

from the lower costs per unit when printing cans and the

credentials and brands with an eye-catching label and a

flexibility of digital label printing.

story to tell. It is up to the can maker to continue to work

As labels are generally applied to cans via a wet-fill

towards supporting the drinking experience, highlighting

process, application conditions are cold and wet. Brand

the enhancements the can provides for both the craft

owners should therefore be looking for a label material

beer and other craft drink sectors. u

make your labels

• Full in house design studio • Both UV Flexo and high-end digital presses • Foiling, textures, varnishes and many other finishes

Technical expertise comes as standard. want your labels quickly? ask us about our

«48hr express service«

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brewersjournal.info

December 2019

37


C o mm e n t

S usta i nab i l i ty

Develop your beer products and brands to meet sustainability goals Sustainability is on the minds of most business leaders right now. But there are few industries where it’s of such importance as in brewing, explains Helen Hartley, a beer and design expert and creative director at brand consultancy Elmwood

items, and growler refills in tap rooms. It’s fair to say that UK independent brewers are leading the way on sustainability, especially in terms of their efficient use of ingredients and resources. Warwickshire’s Purity Brewing is just one of a number of breweries making use of reed bed filtration to return water to the ecosystem, and is also using “self-clean” systems to reduce water waste. Leeds-based North Brewing Co has introduced various sustainability initiatives, including a

by Helen Hartley

beer line chilling system by Brewfit that uses less energy

T

and, at its new site, electricity charging points for vehicles,

are continuing today to do much to address sustainability

we serve our beers, specific lines can be held at different

in response to both environmental concerns and

temperatures, and we'll use less energy, which is great for

consumer demand. However, from start to finish, raw

the environment and our bottom line.”

hat’s nothing new for such a wellestablished industry. Harvey’s Brewery, for

motion sensor controlled lighting, and water recycling. The rationale behind North Brewing’s new chilling

instance, continues to use returnable bottles

system sums up the all-round benefits of embracing

more than 200 years since brewing its first

sustainability in company values. Christian Townsley,

beer.

Director at North Brewing, says: “It'll mean our beer is

And brewers, especially independent local businesses,

materials to post-sales, there are challenges to be

kept in better condition, we've more versatility over how

North Brewing identifies export of product, due to the lack of sustainability in container transport, collecting and

addressed.

recycling Keykegs, and general waste, as big issues that

The circular economy

need to be addressed, demonstrating that sustainability comes in many forms. Whilst we await the government’s tax plans on plastics,

T

ackling sustainability through the framework of the

it is clear that the race is on to provide more sustainable

circular economy is a good way forward. Molson

solutions. New materials are coming on to the market but

Coors, in its sustainability report, emphasises the

there is no point in moving head long into these unless

importance of adopting this broad vision: “We believe

we have a kerbside collection to ensure they do not go

we have an opportunity to transform the way products

abroad to be dumped or go into landfill.

are made, used, and discarded… We’re applying circular

It must be part of a brewer’s DNA if it’s to become a

economy thinking across our value chain by constantly

brand truth for consumers. And, while there are several

challenging ourselves to find worth from waste.”

ways for a brand to tackle sustainability, all bring their own

There are multiple examples of the brewing industry

opportunities and business challenges.

addressing every stage of the circular economy. The

Experts welcome

Brewers Association in the US recently launched initiatives to inspire craft brewers to embrace sustainable build and design, and US brewers are also finding ways to “upcycle” used grain to make breakfast cereals. In the UK, CAMRA’s “Plastic-free July” addresses waste at the sales stage. And, then, when it comes to post-sales, brewers are looking at returnable bottles, removal of single use

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ne solution is to invest in expertise. At Elmwood we recently hired Ian Schofield, Iceland’s former Own Label and Packaging Manager and trained

packing technologist, as a Non-Executive Director. The

Brewers Journal


S usta i nab i l i ty

c o mm e n t

assumption might be that, because of his background, he’ll focus on sustainable packaging solutions. But that’s far from the case. We believe it’s worth having an expert on board to help us to help clients address sustainability through the supply chain, right to the consumer. Ian’s focus on understanding the connection between trends in climate change, resource scarcity, and then how this impacts consumer desire for sustainable brands and packaging could prove to be invaluable. He will also help us move into active and intelligent packaging and new materials, evolving away from fossil fuel materials. In addition, he will advise on the latest Digital printing techniques which are now becoming commercial. Beyond this, collaborating and partnering with experts provides an excellent learning opportunity for people in your business, especially if you’re operating on a smaller scale. North Brewing takes a similar view. Christian Townsley feels that inhouse expertise can help to communicate sustainable values both to his own team and to consumers: “I feel very strongly about the environment. At home, as a family, we factor in environmental impact into the majority of our consumer decisions. It's one of our personal values, and a value I bring into the business. What I haven't done, as of yet, is communicate particularly well with my team, or customers, which is why I'm creating a role within the business with the working title of 'Environmental Champion'.” He explains that this role will be filled by an existing, non-management, member of staff, handling the responsibility of assessing the firm’s environmental footprint, and identifying how this can be improved, while communicating North Brewing’s activity both internally and externally. What will this achieve? “There's a marketing advantage to showing off our care for the

to weave it through the business. This will also provide

earth, but also I hope it will inspire others to follow suit

you with a way to connect with consumers, through the

and make our staff feel even better about working for our

values of your team and your company being reflected in

company.”

a brand truth. You can then begin on the journey of defining or

Company values

redefining your brand’s vision and values, taking a distinct point of view, creating a manifesto, assessing the iconicity

T

of your brand and assets, and developing a portfolio

his point leads us to culture and structure, and

strategy. This then feeds into the business plan that will

how this can impact living your values as a

activate in several channels on and offline.

company. If you operate as a holistic team then

When underpinned by such a thorough approach,

it’s easier to achieve great things in terms of sustainability.

an emphasis on sustainability will bring firm benefits,

That makes it worth considering issues such as ownership

both for the environment, and to the bottom line. As

models.

Christian Townsley puts it: “I believe the next generation

For instance, we’ve seen the rise of brewers such as

of consumers are more tuned into the values of the

New Belgium Brewing in the US, which is 100% employee

companies they engage with than ever before. It's my job

owned. It’s not for every business but where there is

to ensure our values are good for people and the planet,

autonomy for people in the company then it makes it

and we communicate them clearly. That will be good for

more likely that sustainability is valued, enabling you

business and good for the earth.“ u

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g i psy

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Brewing Better London’s Gipsy Hill has taken almighty strides since starting out in 2013. In 2019, it has undertaken a brand refresh, completed a significant expansion and grown its team. But for co-founder Sam McMeekin, many challenges lie ahead for independent craft breweries like his and action is needed sooner rather than later.

had heard that they had the same plans – and that was to build a brewery. They shook hands, drank some beer, got to know each other and penned a plan to put their stake in the exciting and scary world of brewing. The following year, Simon Wood (right) would join the team and a unit in Gipsy Hill was leased. Beers such as Southpaw and Beatnik were introduced with a primary focus on cask production. 500hl was brewed by the time the year was out. Fast forward five years and things have grown

Words: TIM SHEAHAN | Photos: James bEESON

F

somewhat. The business has just completed a brand refresh and significant expansion. This came on the back of the business redoing its

or a good six months in 2018, the small team

brewhouse and fermentation cellars, as well as layer in

that puts together this magazine would

a whole load of new technology. They installed 4 x 120hl

meet on a weekly basis at The Parcel Yard, a

tanks to increase fermentation capacity by about 65%.

welcoming Fuller’s pub that's located upstairs

They also installed a new whirlpool, allowing them to

in Kings Cross station, London.

brew twice a day on a single brew-shift. The whirlpool

There is, evidently, no such thing as a quiet time of day

complements a new souring kettle, an uprated water

to visit this particular establishment but as fortune would

purification system and plans to add barrels and foeders

have it, we’d always manage to snag a table for four. One

to its armoury.

of us would then head to the bar, or a member of the

McMeekin is understandably enthused by the latest

incredibly helpful table service team would magically

additions to the brewery but more so, the impact they’ll

appear to take our order.

have on the business and the team behind it.

“Four pints of Hepcat, please.” There was no discussion. Hepcat was the order of the day and that was that. It even got to the stage where return visits would be

“We’re at a point where we can brew twice during an eight-hour shift. This is great because we can keep things on a single shift and one of our goals is to be a single shift brewery,” he says. “Brewing in the same shift we're

greeted with a knowing glance by the bar staff. The one to

packaging in is very important for us. We don’t want to do

say ‘Yeah, we know what beer you want’. Surely some sort

shift brewing because it puts the culture under strain.”

of achievement at such a busy hostelry. Hepcat is a Session IPA and something of a mainstay for London’s Gipsy Hill Brewing Company. The beer is brewed with Vermont yeast, Mosaic,

“You know, it's tough for the team. I’d sooner have a team we can invest in, one that is more focused rather than growing with the addition of shift brewers,” he adds. While the aforementioned Hepcat and other core

Equinox, Citra, Moteuka aroma hops and Magnum for bittering with a malt bill of Low Colour Maris Otter, Munich, Caramunich T2, Caragold, Oats, Cararuby, Acidulated, Wheat Munich Light. It’s super tasty and, as the style suggests, ideal for a session. Speaking from experience, of course… You could argue that Hepcat embodies a lot of what Gipsy Hill is about. Excellent beers that are accessible but without compromise. The success of such brews has played a major role in the brewery’s growth since it was founded back in 2013. The outfit started life after Sam McMeekin (middle) and Charlie Shaw (left) met at the evergreen institution that is The Rake in London’s Borough Market. The duo

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We figured it was time to take a moment, look back and reflect for a second on where we’ve come from, then think about where we’re going Sam McMeekin, Gipsy Hill

Brewers Journal



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numbers account for a good part of everything Gipsy Hill

Gipsy hill | the core BEERS

produce, the addition of the souring kettle enables the team to produce a sour beer each week, rather than one a month, if they so wish. Considering the brewery has

Carver (Micro IPA, 2.8% ABV) - We took everything we love about IPAs and brought down the ABV. Loaded up with a big New England grist, and fermented through with Vermont yeast, Carver has got balance, tropical aromas and a smooth juicy taste. Featuring Alice, our Sales whizz. She likes far flung adventures.

put out several new beers a month for the last 30 or so

Bandit (Gluten Free Pale, 3.8% ABV) - We took our beloved Beatnik, and took the gluten out. It’s a light, refreshing pale. Still fruity, still floral. Loads of flavour, just gluten free. Featuring Sam, our CoFounder. He likes long and windy roads.

business. Following some 700 brews, the company took

months, increased proliferation in its sour output should come as no surprise. These will complement Gipsy Hill’s revised core range which, until recently, was probably “the smallest in the UK” comprising a mighty two beers. No longer, however. The modern core features Carver, a 2.8% Micro IPA, Gluten Free Pale Bandit, Ranger Pale Ale, Hunter Helles Lager, Baller India Pale Ale and, of course, Hepcat. The updated range came at the right time for the the decision to refresh its branding with the message “Brewing a Better Life”. “Last November, Charlie and I sat down to discuss increasing capacity. But we knew it made sense to ask ourselves what our range would look like at that point,” says McMeekin. “So we spent the next six months really

Ranger (Pale Ale, 4.2% ABV) - Ranger is a clean, balanced and zesty Pale Ale with piney, citrus and stone-fruit notes. Made using batch selected hops and the best quality malts. Featuring Josh, our production wunderkid. He likes home comforts and the great outdoors.

digging into what we stand for. Why do we stand for this and what are our values were. Did we have a mission and if so, what was it?” He adds: “So at the end of all of that we found ourselves in a position where the idea of ‘drink and talk to people’ was all well and good, but felt we wanted something with more meaning. “We figured it was time to take a moment, look back

Hepcat (Session IPA, 4.6% ABV) - Our mainstay and our original, this fruity, juicy and bright tasting Session IPA is everything we think the style should be. Featuring Marcus, our Designer, illustrator and friend. He likes expensive jackets and colouring in.

and reflect for a second on where we’ve come from, then think about where we’re going. Gipsy Hill was born out of family. It was cobbled together by a few guys who needed something meaningful in our day to day, because time away from our new, young families had to mean something. "That’s the blood that flows through our veins. Family, our team, our passion for making the best beer we can

Hunter (Helles Lager, 4.8% ABV) - An uncompromised lager. Unfiltered, with a light bitterness and spicy/bready undertones. Made with all premium malts and noble hops. Conditioned for 40 days. Featuring Simon, our Head Brewer. He likes beaches and wild windy days.

and our desire for what we do to stand for something. “That means treating people right. It means investing in quality equipment. It means getting better at what we do everyday.” With a successful expansion and refresh under their collective belts, McMeekin’s laser focus has returned (not like it ever left) to wider industry issues. “You know, being independent is not easy. You don't

Baller (India Pale Ale, 5.4% ABV) - A big punchy, juicy hop bomb. We took everything we’ve learnt about making IPAs and put it into this beer. Bright flavour, huge aroma and a smooth body, it’s our go to IPA. Featuring Charlie, our Co-Founder. He likes city life and fast peddling.

have big resources and the access to those tools. I mean, I've got so many plans but you just need some cash to do them,” he explains. “Sure you could Crowdfund or take on private equity stakeholders but, you know, it’s tough because we're in a capital intensive business. You really have got to be on top of your finances because that's crucial to running a good brewery or rather, just running a brewery doesn't run out of money!” McMeekin isn’t in the business of just getting by, but

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he’s adamant that for independent outfits such as Gipsy

anymore. They have critical mass and it’s a self-sustaining

Hill to thrive, then they need help from the government

thing. I think that consumers care enough over there to

and industry bodies.

keep it all going. And that means they're not going to

He says: “My main concern remains that independence becomes something of rounding error as a percentage of

become 10% of the market. It just won't happen.” McMeekin casts envious glances at the US craft beer

craft beer. Because if that happens then you’ve lost, like

industry but he’s using the way breweries have navigated

the national battle for shelf space or draft tap space, or

those choppy waters as encouragement for how the UK

whatever it may be.

can flourish, too.

“If independent craft beer is just, let's say 10% of all

“We've got those challenges ahead of us. But if we

craft beer, then craft beer drinkers are basically not

can't make consumers like independent craft beer and

drinking independent craft beer. They're just drinking

enable them to become evangelists for it, then we could

macro masquerading as it. It may be dramatic for me

end up that small 10% of the total craft market,” he says.

to say but in that outcome, independence won’t be

“We need an industry body that is actively protecting our

associated with craft beer. It’ll be off doing its own little

corner and we need to act on these threats sooner rather

thing," he adds. "Just look at America. They've held on to

than later. We can still win this particular battle but if we’re

55% of the value of craft beer being independent. They’ve

not careful, then it’s just as likely that we’ll lose. And who

carved out their corner, and that's not really going away

wants that?" u

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Brewers Journal


Whitby Tanks BREWERY TANKS BOUGHT AND SOLD

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Contact Toby Taylor

sales@whitbytanks.co.uk | 01947 606 237


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butcombe

BEER FOR ALL

Butcombe Brewery has its eyes set on becoming the UK’s number one regional brewer, and it’s aiming to achieve that goal through impressive investment, building on its talented team and making better beer than ever before. It’s also offering these facilities to other breweries, too. Tim Sheahan reports.

the potential uncertainty those deals bring, Butcombe Brewery has gone from strength-to-strength since its takeover by The Liberation Group at the start of 2015. The move created a group boasting more than 110 pubs, bars and eateries, two breweries brewing more than 30,000 barrels as well as retail and wholesale operations employing in excess of 750 staff. In 2019, Marc McGuigan joined the group after 12 years at Greene King. Most recently, he was the business unit director for Greene King’s Local Managed Pubs Division –

by TIM SHEAHAN

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one of the company’s highest performing businesses. The year previous, Mike Jordan joined as head brewer from

e don’t see ourselves as a traditional family brewery. I prefer

Carlsberg. Elsewhere, Andrew Cooney joined as director of

to view us more as a business

sales, but it’s not just the team that Butcombe has

that instead was at the forefront of

been building. It has recently invested £4 million in

craft,” explains Butcome Brewery

its packaging operation, with the aim of offering UK

managing director Marc McGuigan. “For me, craft is embracing innovation rather than resting on your laurels.

breweries a range of kegging, cask and packing facilities. The state-of-the-art bottling and Lambrechts Sankey

But above else, it’s a dedication to making great beer.”

packaging line, combined with its Pentair beer membrane

And Butcombe Brewery has maintained that focus

filter is housed in a new 50,000 sqft warehousing unit next

since it was founded in 1978. Considered a leading brewer and pub operator in Somerset, Bristol, Bath, the Mendips

to the M5 motorway near Bridgwater. On the keg front, this comprises the ability to

and the Cotswolds, the business has undergone a major

packaging into 30l and 50l kegs while 4.5G, 9G and 18G

transition in recent years.

casks can be catered for. In bottling, 500ml bottles can be

In an age of mergers and acquisitions, along with

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December 2019

handled with 330ml capabilities due in 2020.

Brewers Journal


butcombe

For brewing needs, the business can also brew 80-

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These beers sell well within the group’s impressive

150 barrel runs and can facilitate runs from 5-40 barrels

pub estate, but McGuigan is keen to point out that it

through its sister company Liberation Brewery.

would be easy for the brewery’s owners to sit back and

The ability to work with such kit was a major draw for Jordan, a skilled head brewer with more than 30 years’ experience in the field. “I started out at Scottish and Newcastle and through

channel this output across its on-trade presence. “We’re ambitious, but it’s not just a case of investing in pubs. That would be the simple thing to do. Investing in the brewery and packaging operations was a major

the takeover ended up at Heineken. Following that I

commitment. Not everyone would do that,” he says. “We

worked at smaller operations then also at Carlsberg,”

have incredibly strong foundations and we want to build

he explains. “Whether it was maturation, filtration or

on them with the brewery at the forefront.”

everything in-between, a brewer always likes to brew and I’m happy to be doing that here at Butcombe.” Jordan observes that new product development was

Capable of a 150bbl brew length, Butcombe can brew once a day, seven days a week. And for someone that has seen a lot in this industry,

predictably far slower at the bigger brewing operations

Jordan is keen for consumers to know what they’re

so he’s relishing the involvement in new recipes at

drinking.

Butcombe.

“You have terms like modern craft, craft and pseudo

“I’m very happy with the beers we’re producing here

craft. There are macros making beers labelled as craft

and I have a skilled team around me so I’m learning all of

but that’s where the similarities end. For me, it’s more

the time,” he says.

about the state of mind of the company. Whether they’re

Butcombe beers such as Goram IPA and Underfall Lager perform well for the business. The former uses a blend of American and Worcester hops to achieve the

making great beer, using the right methods and not cutting corners.” McGuigan adds: “I’ve always felt that Butcombe

balance between stone fruit, citrus and spicy hop aromas

Brewery was a forerunner when it came to newer trends.

with bitter notes. While Underfall is a 4.1% ultra-crisp,

It’s ok to embrace what’s going on around you but you

triple-filtered lager brewed with lager malt and Perle,

should always stick to your own values, too and never

Saaz and Target hops.

ever compromise on those.” u

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s e c to r

C ontract

P ackag i ng

Pride in packaging There are different formats for different occasions and for West Berkshire Brewery, they're able to offer breweries a broad range of packaging services to complement their own offerings. by TIM SHEAHAN

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he quality of product is key to everyone’s business and therefore customers need to have faith and confidence in their packaging partner to hit the highest standards. At West Berkshire Brewery, they have

been accredited with SALSA plus, audited by M&S and other national and international brewers. They put the time and attention into their processes and controls and this along with their accreditations gives brands the confidence that their product is in safe hands. Efficiency is key, too. Margins are tight so having good efficiency levels means that wastage is low and provides more bang for the buck. Another demand is flexibility. Customers want a single solution to their packaging requirements, having product at multiple sites is costly and logistically painful. Having a

recyclable, thus reducing the amount of new plastic being manufactured. It is an excellent alternative to the old plastic six pack rings. On the technology front, they are one of few breweries

one-stop-shop of formats and sizes provides brands with

in the UK to have a dual canning and bottling line which

a unique solution in the UK.

means that the same batch of beer can be packaged into both can and bottle. It also gives brewers the flexibility

Industry trends

to be able to package into alternative formats as many contract packaging suppliers will only offer either canning or bottling.

E

co-friendly solutions are increasingly important.

Small pack

At WBB they have invested ÂŁ1.5m in eco-friendly solutions including Pak-Tech and a cardboard

fridge pack machine. They've seen a shift towards increasingly eco-friendly and sustainable packaging solutions, there has been a rise in packaging solutions such as cardboard fridge packs which reduces the use of plastic shrink wrap. At WBB they have partnered with Pak-Tech to install

T

here are different formats for different occasions and although they have predominantly done contract packaging into cans, they have also done

some big-bottle only runs for brewers that currently only pack into bottle. Having the dual canning and bottling line

a machine that automatically applies the can carriers

means that neither needs to be compromised and the

into four or six packs. These can carriers are made

business believes there is still a huge place for bottles

from post-consumer recycled resin which is also fully

within the industry. u

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COMPREHENSIVE BOTTLING AND KEGGING SOLUTIONS IN SOUTH WEST UK

• Technology leading filtration (Pentair BMF)

• 30 litre and 50 litre kegging

• High yield, less write off

• Quality control function

• Split runs available

• Tankering and transport

• Master brewer qualified team

• Personable, passionate and trustworthy

• 500ml and 330ml bottling

We would be delighted to discuss your requirements & our solutions in detail. Please either email us at info@butcombe.com or call on 01934 863 963


fo cu s

b i tterness

Bigger Better Bitter Your average craft beer drinkers have bought into the IBU currency, without knowing its worth. In many ways, as brewers, we’re doing exactly the same. We all know how to measure IBUs by lab or formula, but often don’t think about the ‘why’ behind the bitter. Why should your body crave something that screams out ‘DANGER’? Understanding the human side of bitter will help you understand your customers better, which leads to better bitter sales. Velo Mitrovich reports

why some of us like bitter and a reason why some of us hate it. There is a reason why most times you’re doing your customers no favours by listing IBUs, and there is a reason for that matter why IBUs might have had their day. But let’s forget bitterness for a second and talk about chillies. Back in 1912, Wilbur Scoville was a pharmacologist who was working for America’s largest pharmaceutical company, Parke-Davis. Scoville had a problem. He was trying to improve one of the company’s products, a cream called Heet, which was used to treat sprained or sore muscles and is still around today. At the time, the active ingredient in Heet was capsaicin, the key chemical that makes chilli peppers hot. Parke-Davis, however, didn’t always use the same type

by velo mitrovich

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of pepper to extract the capsaicin and in different chillies, the ‘heat’ varied. If you’re trying to make a consistent product, you need some sort of way of measuring this

igh IBU beers are back – no they’re not –

– it’s not enough to bite into a chilli, count the drops of

yes they are – yes – no – yes – no, it’s all

sweat on your forehead, and say one variety is hotter than

enough to drive you crazy. Through our

another.

own fault of not educating customers, most of the time they equate IBU solely

According to John McQuaid in his book Tasty, Scoville's method was to dry out peppers and then dissolve a

with hop flavour. No wonder they’re confused and driving

specific weight of dried pepper in oil in order to extract

us a bit insane in our taprooms.

the heat compounds. The extract was then diluted in

This whole bitterness argument has been going on for

sugar water and given to a panel of five tasters. The

each and every year since the 1990s when craft brewing

amount of sugar needed to make the heat undetectable

crawled out from hobbyists’ basements, and into a proper

to a majority of tasters determined the Scoville rating of

commercial kettle. The answers that were lacking then,

the pepper.

are still lacking today. Since then, like chilli-heads making hotter and hotter

While for Parke-Davis the whole capsaicin thing didn’t work out – it now uses an extract derived from

hot sauce, some brewers seem to think that the more

wintergreen – Scoville’s scale has stayed with us,

bitter, hop taste you can cram in that bottle or can, the

although now the measuring process is considerably

better.

more technical than finding five mates who like chillies.

But, if you’re trying to sell beer instead of creating headlines, is this such a good move? There is a reason

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Why do we like the sensation of our mouth on fire in the first place? The burning sensation capsaicin induces

Brewers Journal


Adriaen Brouwer - The Bitter Potion (1638)


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b i tterness

in the mouth leads the body to produce endorphins as

could be measured by ultraviolet light and those results

a countermeasure. With the Scoville scale, you know

were agreed upon by a tasting panel.

exactly how much heat you’re subjecting yourself to,

Faster approaches were developed, which did away

and this has led to pepper-heads to go after ever-hotter

with having to make the extract alkaline and instead relied

sensations.

on a higher ultraviolet wavelength to measure bitterness.

Hearing that cash register ring, plant breeders and

All was then well? Far from it. Not only were there

sauce makers are happy to oblige them and they have

different methods being used to determine bitterness, it

come up with hotter and hotter chillies. How hot? Your

also varied on which side of the Pond you were on.

bog-standard jalapeño, which pretty much any of us can

Finally in 1965 there was a meeting of minds between

eat without our faces turning too red, is anywhere from

the Analysis Committee of the European Brewery

2,500 to 8,000 Scoville heat units (SHU). The Carolina

Convention and the Isohumulone Sub-committee of the

Reaper chilli, developed by Ed Currie’s PuckerButt Pepper

American Society of Brewing Chemists. A standard test

Company, boasts 2.2 million SHU, making it around 200

method was agreed upon, along with a bitterness scale.

times hotter than a jalapeño. But, that’s chump-change. By cooking down and

But. There is always a ‘but’. The Europeans wanted to call the units of bitterness

concentrating a chilli’s capsaicin content and using

International Bitterness Units, while the Americans were

such chilli-blasters as the Reaper, the Trinidad Moruga

holding fast to Isohumulone Bitterness Unit. Some wise

Scorpion, or the Ghost Pepper, sauce makers have come

soul noticed that regardless the initials were the same, so

out with blends that have anywhere from 6 million to 9

IBU became the agreed upon name.

million SHUs.

Like with SHUs, brewers publicity like to push the

While sauces such as Black Mamba, Mad Dog or

IBU envelop in both directions. In one corner, wearing

Blistered Bunghole all have truly impressive SHU units,

blue trunks and hailing from Virginia’s The Veil Brewing

does anyone actually use them on their vindaloos, or

Company is ‘IdontwantoBU’, which claims to have zero

do they sit on a collector’s shelf in original unopened

IBU despite its intense hop flavour. In the opposite corner,

wrappers next to the asbestos gloves?

wearing red trunks and hailing from Manchester is Carbon

“Ass-destroying hot sauces  –  hell and death are also

Smith’s ‘F**ks Up Your S**T IPA at a claimed 2,600 IBU.

popular themes  –  mostly taste like shit and are usually

But, with Carbon Smith out of business since 2017, it’s

designed solely with heat in mind, never flavour, and

difficult to find out how its brewers achieved this alleged

consuming them is a party trick where the trick is trying

figure.

not to die,” writes Ashwin Rodrigues for MEL. The reality is, the top five sellers by volume in the

Other notables at the high end include Canada’s Flying Monkeys which came out in 2011 with 2,500 IBU

States, range from rather tame 1,000 to 5,000 SHUs. If

‘Alpha Fornication’. They had so much faith that this

you want to get some publicity, you go hotter than hot. If

would be a big hit that they only make one keg and six

you want to make money, you go sensible.

bottles. Dogfish Head came out with ‘Hoo Lawd’, the only

At this point the thought might be occurring to you that there are similarities between SHU and International Bitterness Unit (IBU), especially how we perceive and use the scale. Like the problem of trying to produce a consistent product that uses capsaicin, beer makers needed a way of producing a consistent tasting beer and in the mid

independently tested high IBU beer, which was 658 IBU and only available for one night. Most beers fall between 1 to 100, with 20-45 the most common range for those with a hops presence. The big commercial lagers, such as Budweiser and Millers, are around 10 IBU. To interject this now, what throws off the average Joe

1950s scientists started working on a way of measuring

and Jill beer lover is when they’re in your taproom – if

the amount of ‘bitterness’ that was in a beer.

they blindly follow IBUs – they’ll see your Russian Imperial

In 1955, two researchers extracted the bitter substance

Stout listed at 90 IBU and expect it to be more bitter than

from beer by using chloroform and then weighing the

bitter and more hoppier than hop. Then in total confusion,

dried extract. This was about as easy and fast as it sounds,

their heads will pop off like your old ‘Rock ’Em-Sock ’Em-

and this process was further complicated by the need to

Robot’ toy when they realise there is no bitter or hop taste

measure unhoped wort, which was needed to provide a

in it. You could tell them the stout is like lemonade, the

base number to all of this.

sourer (bitter) it is, the more sugar (grain) you add. Or, you

This article will not even attempt to go into the

could spend an hour discussing grain, ABV, sweetness,

chemistry of the methods then used to make the process

hops, bitterness and IBUs. Or, you could just let them

more accurate, except to say that the process was refined

wallow in their ignorance and tend to other customers.

by taking iso-octane extracts of the acidified beer and diluting them with methyl. This produced an alkaline that

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The problem is, when drinkers discovered the taste of hops in IPAs, they started seeing IBUs not as a

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measurement of bitterness, but as way of breweries to

formula as part of a free software – there are several

express how many hops they crammed into a bottle. If

found on the Net – or taking a sip.

more hops pleased their taste buds, then a higher IBU

While the cost of test equipment has dropped over

must mean a better beer. Or, if they hate hops, then a

the last few years, there are still reoccurring costs in using

higher IBU must be avoided at all costs. To them, IBUs

these machines. If you’re thinking of buying one, be sure

equate to hop flavour and aroma, not at all to bitterness.

to investigate what your total year-on costs will be. For

“With the age of the New England IPA style upon us it's

smaller craft brewers, this could mean sending a sample

a topic that sometimes enters the conversation between

to a lab will be your cheaper option. However, you’re then

HonestBrew buyers particularly when it comes to the

looking at 48 hours for results as opposed to results in 10

perceived reduction in IBUs even in seemingly 'West

to 30 minutes.

Coast' styles’,” says Cormac Wall, beer buyer at online bottle shop HonestBrew. “I think for customers the talk of IBU is something that

The traditional method for measuring bitterness often requires a laboratory with a laboratory technician, UV/Vis spectrophotometer, water bath, glassware, solvents etc.

was prominent in the early years of this decade when

and can take anywhere from 15 – 30 minutes. This has

several beers purported to wield hundreds of IBUs and it

changed though with the introduction of small, easy-to-

was a selling point for them.

use portable lab kits that work at speeds of 10 minutes or

“Occasionally we will still see a beer from a grizzled old West Coast brewer and they'll proudly proclaim 200 IBU

less. The best-selling brewery test kit in the UK is CDR’s

on the side of the can but on a whole, it seems to have

BeerLab System, sold locally through QCL Scientific.

passed from general consciousness among customers as

James Mallett of QCL tells TBJ that there are around 60

most brewers avoid high bitterness levels so feel no need

in use in the UK, with brewery size ranging in production

to mention IBUs anymore.”

from a small three-barrel operation to one of the UK’s

Belgium brewery Brasserie de la Senne prides itself on the bitterness of its beers, which it describes as being the key characteristic of its beers. “We have produced bitter beers since the beginning of

largest international breweries that has four BeerLabs. Mallet is currently working on a PhD in brewing science at Nottingham University, having originally done a BSc in Microbiology. After working at Lallemand, he

our existence – and we are here to brew bitter beers,” says

worked as an assistant brewer at Blue Monkey and

Yvan De Baets of Brasserie de la Senne. “Our approach

recently joined the team at QCL.

was simple: we wanted to brew beers to our liking that

“I’ve seen breweries who use the drink test to check for

we could no longer find on the market. We took on the

IBUs which might work for them. However, if you’re quality

challenge to bring this flavour – so fundamental in the

focused you need to check your beer’s IBU so you can

evolution of human societies but sadly neglected in our

produce a consistent product,” he says.

modern societies – up to date.” De Baets, says, however, he is not tempted in the least

“While I have a background in science, chemistry and research, you definitely do not need one to use a BeerLab,” says Mallett. “If you’re interested, we can come

to list IBUs. “I pride myself on the balance in my beers. Not on their

out to your brewery and demonstrate it to you. If you

bitterness. They are not extremely bitter and don't have an

decided to purchase one, we’ll come by and train all your

extreme bitterness perception. I would certainly not put

staff on how to use it – it’s very simple.

indications such as IBUs on a label as beer making is not a penis contest.

Mallett says while there have been three and fivebarrel breweries buying a BeerLab, it’s probably around

“I want the people to taste with their nose and taste

the 10-barrel point that makes the most sense to own

buds and not with numbers. On the top of that, IBUs don't

one. That said, the three-barrel is now doing 10+ barrel

say anything about the perceived bitterness,” he says.

production, so it would seem that having a very consistent

“For our beers, it's their balance between hoppiness,

quality beer was fundamental to their growth plans.

bitterness, maltiness and fermentation flavours. And the

The BeerLab IBU test can be performed directly at

reason for that is, that's what I like. I pride myself being a

every step of the beer production process and so you

selfish brewer.”

have the possibility to study your recipe, optimizing the additions of the hops and monitoring the actual extraction

Measuring bitterness

of the bitter. This is important if you add hops later on. A recurring cost for doing IBU tests with the BeerLab

B

is for the reagents that come in boxes of either 10 or 100.

reweries measure their IBU by using their own lab,

Not adding in the cost of the BeerLab, which is around

or sending samples off to commercial labs, using

£6,000, the cost per test is around £6.00. Besides the IBU

a complicated math formula, or using the same

test, the BeerLab does around 20 other tests.

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December 2019

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b i tterness

The next step down in testing, which many smaller

Other breweries and research groups have done

breweries use all the time or others us in brewing

similar tests and have achieved the same results.

one-offs, is the math formula method. While this is the

Research conducted last year by several Colorado

cheapest way, it’s not the most accurate as there can

breweries revealed that IBUs are not a good measure of

be other variables thrown in the mix. In looking at some

bitterness in IPAs.

breweries’ IBU numbers, you have to suspect they’re

“The traditional way of measuring bitterness is not

primarily using the dartboard method. And indeed, a few

relevant, or accurate or even useful,” says Neil Fisher,

years back in the US state of Oregon, a group of craft

the head brewer and owner at WeldWerks Brewing in

beer drinkers sued a number of Oregon brewers for not

Colorado.

having accurate IBUs listed on their cans and bottles, according to Aubrey Laurence reporting for Tap Trail. “Essentially, this is a case of false advertising,” said Tim

The traditional test is why The Veil Brewing Company in Virginia can produce a beer with an official IBU of zero, yet still have a bitter, hoppy flavour that tastes around

Crews, one of the plaintiffs filing the suit. “These breweries

30-40 IBU. The Veil adds its hops later in the process, after

are putting inaccurate IBU numbers on their beer labels,

the IBU measurement is made.

and it’s time they answered to those misleading claims.” Milford S. Auggenpot, the defence lawyer representing

Going by official IBU standards, there are no IBUs in it. The reality, however, if far from this. For the big breweries

the breweries, admits that the IBU numbers printed on

who are making lagers that rely more on malt for flavour

the beer bottle labels may be slightly off, as they are just

and aren’t being creative with hops, the standard IBU

calculations. But he notes that perceived bitterness is

works fine. However, for craft brewers, BU:GU ratio might

subjective, and he’s quick to point out that a 50-IBU pale

make more sense.

ale will seem like it has much more bitterness than a 50IBU, high ABV barley wine. Phil Hague, a member of the American Society of

The BU:GU ratio is the IBUs divided by the gravity units. It represents the amount of bitterness balanced with the sweetness. Higher values mean more bitterness.

Brewing Chemists, agrees that most IBU numbers out

The scale is roughly 0.25-0.35 for wheats, 0.4-0.8 for the

there are just rough estimates, and that most of them are

majority of ales, and 1.0+ for IPAs.

overstated. “Unless you have a centrifuge and a UV-Vis

Remember, there is no law or requirement for using

Spectrometer, you’ll never be able to determine the

IBU, the scale was set up to help brewers produce a

exact IBU number in a beer,” he tells Tap Trail. “Of course,

consistent product. You need to find what works best for

you also have to know about isooctanes, isohumulones,

you.

hydrochloric acid, flasks and cuvettes, and be nerdy

Why bitter?

enough to know how to put it all together. Most breweries do not have these things.” Still, it doesn’t matter how accurate of system you’re using to get your IBU numbers, many see problems with the current IBU system, which hasn’t moved on with the industry.

A

ll of this would be completely and totally irrelevant it we didn’t actually like bitter tastes, which shouldn’t be happening in the first place.

Once upon a time, hops were only added to boiling

Millions of years of evolution has equipped us to respond

wort during the initial brewing process to convert

negatively to bitter more than any other taste. The reason

humulones to isohumulones, adding bitterness and

is simple: the vast majority of all poisonous plants and

producing a balance to the naturally sweet flavour of wort

animals taste bitter. Have a child bite into something

from the grains – doing the opposite of our lemonade

bitter and they instinctively spit it out. And we’re not alone

analogy.

with this. Jellyfish, fruit flies and bacteria – not known for

However, modern styles of beer have seen an increase in hops added at different stages of the brewing process, including at the end of the wort boil (late-hopping) and near the end of fermentation (dry-hopping). While it has been thought that late-hopping and

being the world’s pickiest eaters – can all sense bitter compounds. Humans have 24 bitter tasting genes, far more than other life forms, which includes sweet, salty, sour and umami. About 15 years ago it was discovered that besides

dry-hopping do not contribute to IBUs in beer, in a

the well-known bitter receptors on our tongues, we also

study conducted by London’s Hackney Brewery using

have bitter receptors throughout our bodies in places

a CDR BeerLab, it showed a considerable increase in

such as the stomach, nose, lungs and brain. Why these

IBU value from both late and dry-hopping suggesting

other bitter receptors? Scientists haven’t figured that one

that alternative compounds present in hops (such as

out yet, but many believe they act as a shadow taste

humulinone) do in fact contribute to the IBU value during

system.

the brewing process.

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Unlike jellyfish, humans are constantly twisting,

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challenging, and breaking evolutionary rules and in every

diets. One week the human guinea pigs would give

culture, there are bitter, bitter foods that are considered

up nearly all bitter food. The next week, they would be

good. Bitter gourd in India, Icelandic fermented, rotted

given three-daily glasses of chocolate almond milk, due

Greenland shark, and even uncured olives spring to mind,

to chocolate containing bitter compounds known as

along with dark chocolate, broccoli, coffee, and beer.

polyphenols.

It’s always been thought that enjoying bitter flavours

As suspected, the SPIT team was able to detect

is an acquired taste – like with hot chillies – but new

changes in the volunteers’ saliva after they consumed the

research is pointing towards biological changes in our

chocolate almond milk. In particular, they saw an increase

saliva as to why we end up loving a hoppy IPA.

in a type of protein that naturally captures and binds to those bitter polyphenols, while, at the same time, test

Dr Cordelia Running, a sensory scientist at Purdue University wanted to know if there was a biological reason

subjects began reporting the chocolate drink as tasting

behind the change. She and her team at Purdue’s Saliva,

less bitter or astringent.

Perception, Ingestion, and Tongues Laboratory (SPIT Lab)

The more bitter foods the subjects ate, the more

suspected that repeated exposure to bitter foods might

anti-bitter proteins they had in their saliva, and the more

actually change something in a person’s saliva.

palatable the food seemed to become. In other words,

Besides keeping our mouths moist, saliva begins the digestion process of food and the saliva makeup includes

it’s not that we just get used to bitterness, bitter flavours actually change the way we experience taste. You drink a bitter IPA and the taste will grow on you

proteins that can affect how food and drink tastes. Running decided to run with the idea that exposure to

and if you’re older, with more exposure to bitter foods

bitter foods can actually change these proteins or the

over the years, the enjoyment of a bitter IPA will come

numbers of them.

quicker. While appealing to young, hip drinkers is more trendy and fun, older drinkers will actually take to your

To test this theory, Running's lab brought in 64 volunteers and gave them a six-week trial of alternating HSD Safety half-page ARTWORK.pdf

brewersjournal.info

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25/08/2016

bitter IPA a whole lot faster. u

12:08

December 2019

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b i tterness

ask the expert

W

hen you have questions about

In looking at levels of perceived bitterness: low,

bitterness, you need to go to

moderate, pronounced, assertive, or highly assertive,

an international expert. So who

do you let your palate guide you or IBU figures?

better to turn to than Ray Daniels, the founder and director of the

Cicerone® Certification Program.

Ultimately, it is based on palate. But anyone who is knowledgeable about beer can look at the information on a beer (or style) and form an opinion of what the

TBJ: When a Cicerone-trained taster tastes a beer,

perceived bitterness is likely to be. Still, if you don’t take

do they pay attention to a beer’s IBU figures if given?

everything into account, you can be wrong, so tasting is the only way to really assess perceived bitterness.

Ray Daniels: Personally, I may look at IBU values in two contexts. First, when I’m at a bar to enjoy a beer. While beer style is my primary guide to what I expect in a beer, I

Is bitterness in beer something that is very subjective to an individual’s tastes, ie, what is too bitter for one is just right for another?

personally don’t enjoy beers with assertive bitterness. Thus if the IBU information is available on the menu or

Certainly there’s some subjectivity in perception of

blackboard, I’m certainly going to check it when making a

bitterness. But you’re really asking whether some people

personal decision about what to drink. I note however that

just like bitterness more than other people do and that

by itself, that number doesn’t tell you much. I’ll explain

is absolutely true. So even if you and I perceive the

more in a minute.

bitterness of a beer as being “assertive” you might love it

As for the second situation, in the course of our work

and I might hate it.

we might also check published information on IBUs, ABVs and colour when assessing unfamiliar beers that

If someone walks into a pub and asks for something

we might want to present in classes and exams—just to

very hoppy, do you assume they mean bitter like a

ensure that they fall in an appropriate range for the style

West Coast IPA, or something with lots of grapefruit,

we want.

tropical or mango notes?

But generally when evaluating beer for most purposes, we wouldn’t necessarily want to look at the quantitative

Ah, yes, this is a challenge. Every brewer knows that hops

values for the beer before tasting it. There we’d rather rely

can impart three traits to beer: bitterness, flavour and

on perception to decide about the balance of the beer.

aroma. The traits imparted by any one hop addition are largely determined by when the hops are added during

As a Cicerone-trained taster, how do you figure in a

the brewing process. The hops added at or near the

beer’s perceived bitterness vs actual bitterness?

beginning of the 90-minute boil impart the vast majority of the bitterness in most beers. But, they contribute

IBUs by themselves don't mean much. I can give you a

very little hop flavour and essentially no aroma. Hops

beer with 29 IBUs that you’ll perceive as undrinkably bitter

added 10-30 minutes before the end of the boil primarily

and another with the exact same level of IBUs that you’ll

contribute hop flavour to the finished beer – along with a

tell me is cloyingly sweet.

bit of bitterness. Hops added in the last 10 minutes and

With the “perceived bitterness” measure, we want

after the boil ends mostly contribute hop aroma to the

to move past just looking at IBU numbers and get to

finished beer and very little, if any, bitterness or flavour.

something that’s more meaningful when you actually

The whole “American” family of beer styles (pale

taste the beer. Various elements in a beer can be used to

ale, IPA, double IPA, etc.) was built around recipes that

influence the perception of bitterness including original

included large hop additions in all three areas: bitterness,

gravity, adjunct usage, attenuation, carbonation level,

flavour and aroma.

and, yes, actual IBU level. And in most cases, perceived

Unfortunately, there are no standard measurements for

bitterness is pretty consistent across examples of a

how much flavour or aroma hops are in a beer. The only

particular beer style even while the IBUs might vary by 30

thing that we can measure to indicate the amount of hops

or 40 percent.

added is bitterness – and that only measures one of the

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December 2019

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big fan of highly bitter beers, so I pray for just that. And

three possible impacts of a hop addition. Because IBUs are the only measurement we have

indeed, the huge popularity of New England style IPAs

related to hops, brewers have bragged about them and

(increasingly being called hazy/juicy in the US) is built

consumers have seized on them as an indicator of overall

on exactly that: a recipe with high levels of aroma and

hoppiness. But, this is a falsehood. So, when a consumer

flavour hops, but relatively low bitterness. Add to that the

says they want a “hoppy” beer, some additional probing

rise in lagers which are certainly more balanced overall

is needed. I would ask them what their favourite beer is.

and sometimes downright malty, and we definitely are

Or I would pick a well-known example and ask if that’s

seeing a swing away from the hyper-hoppy beers that

what they mean. Or, I would give them a sample of

dominated the beer scene just a few years ago. Founded in 2008 by brewer, author, and beer educator

something with high bitterness (American IPA, say) and something with a lot of hop flavour and aroma without a

Ray Daniels, the Cicerone Certification Program seeks to

ton of bitterness (New England/Hazy IPA) and see which

ensure that consumers receive the best quality beer at

is more to their liking.

every service occasion. To facilitate this, those who sell and serve beer are encouraged to acquire knowledge in five areas: 1) Keeping and Serving Beer, 2) Beer Styles,

Does the average drinker understand bitterness?

3) Beer Flavor and Evaluation, 4) Beer Ingredients and Brewing Processes, and 5) Pairing Beer with Food.

Ha! Define “average!” The “average” beer drinker in my

The Cicerone Certification Program certifies beer

world does, but I don’t live in the real world as least so

professionals at four levels:

far as beer goes. But I do think that most human beings recognize bitterness as a taste. It is, after all, one of the

1.

Certified Beer Server

five basic tastes so most people can call it out when they

2.

Certified Cicerone®

encounter it – certainly at high levels.

3.

Advanced Cicerone®

4.

Master Cicerone®

To date, more than 120,000 individuals have been

Do you see a trend away from very bitter beers?

certified through the program. u Personally, I love hop flavour and aroma, but I’m not a

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brewersjournal.info

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muntons.com

December 2019

57


des i gn

fo cu s

Stand Out in a Saturated Market Craft beer is no longer just for the few. Everyone and their grandma can enjoy the flavours of a good NEIPA these days. This means the industry is growing, the market is becoming increasingly saturated, and the challenge of standing out is harder than ever. For many breweries new and old, this is a daunting task. As designers, David Freer and Jonny Mowat see this challenge as an exciting one, with infinite possible solutions. Here they present a few different areas to consider when trying to make a splash in the vast craft ocean.

L

ook at other industries and see

from which could grow your business. Workshops

how businesses working within that

and residencies are the best way to learn what

industry differentiate themselves from

makes you tick, so the design work is true to

the competition. What can you take

who and what you are. If your designer doesn’t

from those industries, rather than just

understand you, you run the risk of commissioning

looking at other breweries? Cannabis is one space

a trendy bit of folio work for them—that doesn’t

to look at right now, with seemingly thousands of

work in the long haul for you.

brands vying to be the next big thing.

When we began the Fyne Ales rebrand, we

Which ones are making it, and why? There

spent several days on-site where we learned about

suddenly seems to be a huge number of new

the fascinating ins and outs of running a brewery on

mattress brands, all offering their own take on

a working farm. It was from that trip we decided to

changing your sleep for the better. What aspects

reposition them a ‘farm brewery’, which truly sets

of their social media advertising could you take

them apart in the Scottish craft market.

on board? Following on from the sneaker and

Embrace tribalism

streetwear epidemic we have in the Western World, breweries started to treat their beers in the same way, causing customers to queue outside the door for exclusive ‘drops’ of limited beers.

Let your designers get to know you

A

loaded term in our current political climate, but don’t write off the power of tribes: it’s only human to seek out a select few who

share your idiosyncrasies and taste for hops. Find your people, the people who like the beer that you

I 58

f you’re employing a designer—whether it’s a

like, that do the same hobbies you do, that have the

freelancer or a big integrated agency—it’s more

same shite patter that you have, and make beer for

than a transaction. It’s a relationship, the fruits

them.

December 2019

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fo cu s

what they could and commissioned a solid logo and basic brand from us—you really do need to start with at least that—and leaned on their personal network for the rest. The brewmaster’s pops (an architect) built the bar-top, a woodworker friend carved their tap handles, a local antiquer restored some old newspaper clippings as wall art. Sometimes, it takes a village.

You get what you pay for

I

f you’re a brewery in the small business category, budgets are tight and counting the pennies comes first in most decisions. That

said, if you can assign a budget to marketing and branding, do it. Gone are the days of making a logo yourself, slapping a watercolor your aunt painted in the 70s on every bottle, and making it big in the craft beer world. Getting this stuff right takes time and money. However, that doesn’t mean you have to break

At our new home in Denver, there’s loads of

the bank. Some bigger agencies will require

breweries who do this to great effect. Are you

upfront commitments and retainers in the tens of

nostalgic for Nintendo 64 and that carefree 90s

thousands. Others will be happy to begin a working

feeling? Check out the craft brewery Grandma’s

relationship for far less, careful to only deliver what

House, with its kitschy decor and Mario Kart

you really need, hopeful to grow their business as

tournaments. If you’re a metalhead who’d prefer to

your grow yours*. Look at the Tyree Whisky Co for

headbang while drinking quality craft, there’s Black

inspiration—they came to us for the bare minimum,

Sky. One of our favourite examples of brewery

but we did it right. Now, we’re working with them on

tribalism is Mikkeller, who are so entrenched in the

each release as they expand and thrive.

running community they’ve got an online shop of

*psst. We’re one of these.

branded running kit and send a crew to the Berlin Marathon every year.

Use what (and who) you've got

Never stop tooting that horn

O

ne characteristic that’s sure sign of a successful craft brewery is the ability to

D

your uncle is a second-to-none cobbler?

press releases, interviews and other traditional

Collaborate with him and release a range of

means, today’s masters of craft are finding new

beer-inspired brogues. Okay, maybe that’s a reach,

ways to constantly be on the minds of beer drinkers.

but the point is to lean into what and who you’ve

Write an email newsletter and a beer blog. Produce

got.

slick, attractive photos for Instagram but hand over

on’t know any graphic designers, but

produce constant content. In addition to

Our client in lovely Illinois, McHenry Brewing

the keys to employees for character-building stories

Company, didn’t have a six figure budget for sexy

and behind-the-scenes laughs. In the impermanent

branding and interior design. They scraped up

internet age, more is better. u

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December 2019

59


c ro s s i n g

co nti n e nt s

russ i a

Taking on a challenge When Russian brewery Tatspirtprom committed to investing in a new brewery, it was something of a landmark. There hadn’t been a brewery of this size, with an annual capacity of two million hectoliters, built in Russia in more than a decade. It also marked Krones’ first turnkey brewery in the country and the company’s fastest turnaround to-date on a project of this magnitude.

time, which enabled us to complete the job on its tight schedule,” said Natalja Küffner, project lead for Krones AG. “And that was only possible thanks to the excellent cooperation of the customer.” Besides water freight, which carried the lion’s share of the 82 oversized shipping units, road freight also played an important role. No fewer than 235 trucks carrying standard containers made the 3,200-kilometer trip through the Czech Republic, Poland, and Belarus to Chistopol. The journey took each driver eight days – wide loads took twice that time. To ensure that everything went smoothly, Krones’ logistics team meticulously planned

by tim sheahan

every detail of the trip, especially ensuring that the

O

oversized loads would not run into bottlenecks along the

dimensioned for one million hectoliters), shipped it from

project. But we are glad to have chosen Krones. I don’t

Germany to Russia, installed it, and put it into operation.

think we would have managed to stay on schedule if we

That required meticulous planning on the part of both

hadn’t,” added Irek Minnakhmetov, general director of

Tatspirtprom and general contractor Krones.

Tatspirtprom. “Krones was the only vendor able to offer

nly twelve months passed from the

way. As a result, everything arrived safe and sound and

time the cornerstone was laid and the

on time.

contract was awarded in late May 2017

The managers responsible for the project on

to the first brew in June 2018. In that time

Tatspirtprom’s end were extremely pleased with the

Krones built all of the equipment for

outcome.

Tatspirtprom’s new brewery (the first phase of which was

The large-volume tanks – like those for fermentation,

“We spoke with five different vendors ahead of this

us a real turnkey solution. As I see it, Krones has in us a

storage, and bright beer – as well as parts of the

strong local company with great potential and we have in

brewhouse were a critical aspect of this project.

Krones a worthy partner for accomplishing our plans.”

To get them to their destination, Krones chose instead

In terms of process technology, the project’s scope

of road transport the logistically much simpler but longer

included a complete brewhouse designed to produce

option of shipping by water freight.

450 hectoliters per brew at twelve brews per day and

The route involved loading from Krones’ tank-building plant in Duisburg, Germany, shipping along the Rhine

mash in beers with wort at up to 15.5 degrees Plato. It comprised two ShakesBeer mash tuns, a pegasus

River to the seaport of Rotterdam, travel across the North

lauter tun, product holding tank, stromboli kettle with

and Baltic Seas to St. Petersburg. Finally, another 1,700

internal boiler, vapor condenser for energy recovery and

kilometers along the Volga-Baltic Waterway to Chistopol

a whirlpool.

on the River Kama, a tributary of the Volga. However, there was one additional obstacle to be overcome. Because the Volga often freezes solid in winter, river transport shuts down in early November. Therefore, oversized shipping containers would have to arrive no later than October 2017 – leaving only a

The company does not plan to process unmalted grain. “We place a high value on the quality of our beer, so we use 100 percent malt for brewing,” said executive director Rishat Khasanov. In the first phase of construction, Krones installed

very narrow window for manufacturing the tanks and

a brewery with a capacity of one million hectoliters: 18

brewhouse.

cylindro-conical fermenters and storage tanks, each with

Eight weeks had to be set aside for the journey by

a net volume between 1,000 and 3,600 hectoliters. The

water: two for the sea route to St. Petersburg, four along

tanks are connected by way of pipe panels. In the second

the Volga and Kama Rivers, and another two in Chistopol

phase of construction, at the end of 2018, another twelve

harbor for unloading, customs, and preparation for

tanks at 3,600 hectoliters each increased the brewhouse’s

transport to the construction site.

capacity to two million hectoliters. The yeast storage

“We delivered everything for this big project just-in-

60

December 2019

system was also expanded by two tanks.

Brewers Journal



For filtration, Tatspirtprom opted for a combination of a TFS kieselguhr (diatomite) precoat filter and a TFS PVPP filter plus a centrifuge. Ten fully automated bright-beer

expertise of a premium Bavarian brewery,” said Irek Minnakhmetov. The idea that Tatspirtprom should build its own

tanks fitted with Evoguard double-seat valves make the

brewery came about in early 2017 after extensive market

beer ready for bottling, canning, or kegging. All of the

analysis. “Since we are already in the alcoholic beverages

process technology is controlled by way of a data-driven

market, beer was an obvious choice for growing our

Botec F1 process control system.

operations,” said Minnakhmetov. T

Krones was also responsible for all utilities, from the

Tatspirtprom also wanted to streamline and

water house including a steam boiler as well as a NH3

consolidate its spirits production, which meant closing

water cooling and iced water system to CO2 recovery,

one plant in Chistopol. “But our company cares about the

compressed air and CIP systems all the way to a

welfare of its workers,” added Minnakhmetov. “By building

Hydronomic RO reverse osmosis water treatment system.

the brewery, we were able to keep those jobs and even

Krones also installed three complete filling lines including a non-returnable glass bottling line

grow the workforce to 300 people.” In just the first year, Tatspirtprom was able to utilize

dimensioned for 30,000 0.5-liter non-returnable glass

around 40 percent of the one million hectoliter capacity

bottles per hour, a non-returnable PET bottling line for

originally installed. But Minnakhmetov and executive

17,600 1.5-liter non-returnable PET containers per hour

director Khasanov have even grander plans: "We are

and a canning line for 30,000 0.5-liter cans per hour.

talking with Krones about doubling the plant’s annual

In addition, a Kosme KSB Gigablow stretch blowmolder produces 30-liter PET kegs at 200 containers per

capacity to four million hectoliters." That is meant, in part, as a challenge to the widespread

hour. White Kremlin Brewery, named after a building of

grey market for beer, which he figures accounts for as

the same name in Kazan, Tatarstan’s capital city, produces

much as 40 percent of beer consumption and which he

14 different beers in 28 stock keeping units. Tatspirtprom

views as Tatspirtprom’s biggest competitor. And then he

also brews the Bavarian beer brands König Ludwig and

mentions “ten million hectoliters” as a medium-term goal.

Kaltenberg under license.

“Our strategic objective is to become the strongest beer

“As a result, we not only have process and filling

producer on the local market here in Tatarstan and to be a

technology from the Bavaria-based world market leader

major player across Russia. That is our dream and we are

Krones here in Chistopol, we also have the brewing

going to fight to make it happen.“ u

62

December 2019

Brewers Journal


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L ow

and

N o

A lcohol

B rew i ng

s c i e n c e

Grasp the low and no alcohol opportunity The growth in no and low alcohol products presents a real opportunity for craft brewers to enter and disrupt a growing market dominated almost exclusively by the big global players, explains Andrew Paterson, technical sales manager for the UK at Lallemand Brewing.

innovative than the global players, while creating choice for consumers is the mainstay of their business. Until now the no and low category has been dominated by lager and wheat beer styles. With craft brewers entering the game the potential for innovation within the sector is almost limitless. While clearly a market in growth there are real barriers to entry to the no and low market for Craft and Global brewers alike. These can broadly be broken into three distinct areas. The first of these is flavour; it is not easy

by andrew paterson

to develop a low alcohol product. There are various

I

methods than can be employed and most require capital

and no alcohol beer. While technically a category in its

low alcohol products is far more of a challenge than for

own right rather than a style per se, sales of low and no

larger brewers. The assessment of this market access will

alcohol beer are outperforming the beer industry as a

ultimately control how much effort is put into new product

whole with UK annual sales growth of 28%, and a current

development and where investments should be made.

n the craft beer industry we are used to transient developments in beer styles which seem to come

investment in plant and machinery. This leads us to the second issue; this capital

and go over the years. These can be short lasting;

investment might be achievable at the larger brewers

Brut IPA anybody? Popular in the medium term,

but is probably beyond the reach of most craft brewers.

Saison; or long lasting with multiple reiterations,

Finally there is the question of how to assess the market

IPA, American West Coast IPA or NEIPA. One style which seems likely to buck this trend is low

potential of newly developed products. For the craft brewer the route to market for no and

European market share of 6%. Big brewing companies

At Lallemand we recognise the need for a reliable

are investing heavily in the trend with the largest global

method of creating a credible tasting, low alcohol beer

brewer AB InBev predicting that no and low will make up

without the need for capital investment. This led us to

20% of its global sales by 2025. Others are entering the

review the current methods of creating low alcohol beer

market with innovative new products such as Heineken

without specialist equipment and see how we might

Zero and Carlsberg 0.0%.

apply our knowledge and cutting edge research in the

The growth in no and low alcohol products presents a real opportunity for craft brewers to enter and disrupt

areas of yeast, fermentation and carbohydrate chemistry to improving these techniques.

a growing market dominated almost exclusively by the

The high temperature mashing technique

big global players. AB InBev CEO Carlos Brito almost summed it up perfectly when he said: “Choice is key, the NABLAB category is no longer about having one or two alternatives to traditional beers: it’s about mirroring the choice found in the traditional beer category with a wide range of no and low beers�. Herein lies the advantage for craft brewers. Craft brewers have always been more agile and

brewersjournal.info

T

he most often used method for creating low alcohol beer in craft breweries is based around the process of high temperature mashing.

Understanding this method requires a certain degree

December 2019

65


S c i e n c e

L ow

and

N o

A lcohol

B rew i ng

60

Mash Temperature 0C

Mash time (min)

95

74

78

82

86

60

S1

S5

S9

S13

S17

70

S2

S6

S10

S14

S18

80

S3

S7

S11

S15

S19

90

S4

S8

S12

S16

S20

70

80

90

74 78 82 86

Figure 1: Table detailing the trial mash temperatures and times used in this work as well as the initial results from starch testing of the worts

95

Sugar

Degree of Polymerisation (DP-n)

Fermentable by Brewers yeast

Glucose

1

Y

Maltose

2

Y

Maltotriose

3

Y/N

Maltotetraose

4

N

Maltopentaose

5

N

Maltohexaose

6

N

Maltoheptaose

7

N

High Molecular Weight (HMW)

>7

N

Figure 2: The different length sugars and HWM dextrin material in a brewery wort

of knowledge of mashing biochemistry. Essentially the

key to the success of this method is the temperature

idea is that you alter the fermentability of the wort by

used for mashing and the resultant dextrin profile of the

using a high mash temperature to inactivate the beta

wort. Most microbreweries lack the facilities for an in

amylase enzyme, which generates the vast majority of

depth investigation of this dextrin profile and therefore

fermentable sugar in a brewery fermentation. At the same

results are based on trial and error. Work we have done

time you allow enough residual alpha amylase activity

has elucidated the effect of differing mash temperatures

to break down the starch molecules within the malt into

on this method and allowed us to create some guidelines

longer chain dextrins and sugars, thereby preventing

for brewers wishing to create low alcohol beers using

starch positive and hazy beers.

this technique. Please see our following best practice

Using this method will not produce alcohol free

document for recommendations of mash temperatures

beers, as no matter how mashing is conducted some

and yeast strains to use when targeting different alcohol

fermentable sugars will be produced. The amount of

levels in low alcohol beer.

alcohol that can be generated from these fermentable

The experiment

sugars can be altered to some degree by using specific yeast strains which are not capable of fermenting the sugar maltotriose, in this case Lalbrew Windsor and Lalbrew London. This has the effect of making the wort more unfermentable than it otherwise would be when using yeasts strains which are capable of metabolising this sugar. Clearly in addition to the correct choice of yeast the

66

December 2019

I

n order to create our best practice document, we designed a study to investigate the effect of temperature on the mashing process. We undertook

trial mashes on a laboratory mash bath for a series of different times and temperatures. See fig 1. The worts from

Brewers Journal


A lcohol

B rew i ng

860c

740c

950c DP4

820c 860c

DP1

DP5

780c 740c

780c 950c

DP6

820c

s c i e n c e

DP2

N o

DP3

and

DP7

HMW

L ow

Figure 3: Graphs showing the variation in different sized sugars and HWM dextrin material in worts produced from different high temperature mashes

74

78

82

{ { { { {

86

95

Too much fermentable sugar

Too much fermentable sugar

Good potential

Possibly too much starch

Too much starch and fermentable sugar

Figure 4: A heat map showing amounts of HMW dextrin and fermentable sugars produced in the mashing trials. The colour gradient from white to dark red shows increasing concentration

these trials were first tested with iodine to give an idea of the level of starch breakdown within the wort.

this would lead to hazy and starch positive beers. Following iodine tests these worts were stabilised

See fig 1. Interestingly we saw that starch breakdown

at high temperature before being sent to one of our

was almost complete at 74 and 78 degrees, temperatures

laboratories in the eastern US for further analysis by

that would ordinarily be considered very high for a

size exclusion chromatography (SEC). This allowed us

brewery mash. At 82 degrees iodine tests suggested that

to investigate the breakdown of different sized sugars

starch breakdown had occurred but to a lesser extent

within the wort from one glucose unit up to a chain of

than at the lower temperatures. This is what we consider

seven glucose units (DP-1 to DP-7). Figure 2 shows the

to be the sweet spot for low alcohol beer production

sugars present within a brewery wort from DP-1 to DP-7.

using the high mash temperature technique. Above 82

Figure three shows the initial results obtained by size

degrees we saw that there is limited starch breakdown,

exclusion chromatography detailing the proportions of

brewersjournal.info

December 2019

67


S c i e n c e

L ow

and

N o

A lcohol

B rew i ng

Figure 5: 3D bar chart showing the size distribution of sugar chains from DP-3-DP-30 in worts created by high temperature mashing

sugars created at different temperatures from degree of

m/z) and therefore, correlate accurately to their degree

polymerisation 1 to degree of polymerisation 7, as well

of polymerisation. See fig 5. This allowed us to look

as higher molecular weight dextrins (HWM or High DP

at the relative abundance of various DPs of sugars all

dextrins).

the way from DP-3 to DP-30. A clear peak can be seen

The findings of the size exclusion chromatography

corresponding to the mass of maltoheptaose at 82

revealed that at the lower temperatures of 74 and 78

degrees indicating good breakdown of starch to longer

degrees higher proportions of fermentable sugar (DP-1 to

chain unfermentable sugars at this temperature, but as

DP-3) were created. This was in line with our expectations

previously seen, without being starch positive.

from the previous work done using iodine. Interestingly

Other considerations

the results also suggested a significant amount of fermentable sugar was created at 95 degrees. This can probably be attributed to starch hydrolysis due to the high temperature. When looking at the longer chain sugars (DP-4-DP7), we saw that greater proportions were created at the higher temperatures of 82 degrees and 95 degrees. Interestingly at 86 degrees less of these longer

I

n addition to the mash temperature there are other considerations one must take into account when brewing low alcohol beer. Worts created using this

method must be low in starting gravity to prevent too

chain sugars were produced. This would indicate that at

much sugar being produced. The worts we used were

this temperature alpha amylase activity is significantly

between 1.020 and 1.027. This can lead to a lack of body

reduced leading to an increased amount of higher

which can be combatted using lactose and chloride

molecular weight dextrin material but less longer chain

heavy water as a mouthfeel enhancer. In addition the

sugars due to temperature mediated hydrolysis. Analysis

lower amount of malt creates a lower pH buffering

of this data allowed us to produce a heat map showing

capacity when compared to an ordinary brewery wort.

the potential of each temperature for creating low alcohol

The pH must be monitored and controlled to within

wort. See fig 4.

normal brewing specifications throughout the process.

Finally we subjected the worts to MALDI-TOF mass

Failure to control pH can lead to astringent and overly

spectrometry. In this technology the worts were vaporised

bitter beers through extraction of tannin material and

and the constituent sugars ionised by irradiation with a

excessive hop utilisation.

laser before being accelerated through an electric field.

Finally this work could not have been possible without

The point (time of flight required to hit the detector) at

the help of our excellent teams in the R&D laboratories.

which the ionised sugars hit the detector corresponds

Special thanks go to Sivakumar Pattathil at Mascoma, NH,

to their accurate molecular mass (mass to charge ratio;

USA and Jeff Zhang at AB Vickers UK. u

68

December 2019

Brewers Journal


Best Practices

Low alcohol beer

Recommended low alcohol procedure

The sugars present within ordinary brewery worts

This method produces low alcohol beers by creating a wort of low fermentability. It utilises a combined method of high temperature mashing, low original gravity and fermentation using a strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae that will not metabolise maltotriose to limit alcohol production. In this case Lalbrew® Windsor or Lalbrew® London. Brewery wort contains fermentable sugars of low molecular weight and unfermentable sugars of high molecular weight. The ability to ferment these low molecular weight sugars varies by yeast strain (Figure 1). This method aims to maximize the level of unfermentable dextrin in the wort and minimize the level of fermentable sugar (Figure 2). Utilizing Lalbrew® Windsor and Lalbrew® London for fermentation prevents the metabolism of maltotriose further limiting alcohol production by fermentation.

Glucose DP-1

fig. 1 Fermentable by brewing yeast

Low molecular weight

Maltose DP-2 High molecular weight

Maltotriose DP-3

Fermentable by some strains of brewing yeast Maltotetraose DP-4 Not fermentable by brewing yeast

DP-5

the Method

The aims of low abv mashing procedure

fig. 2

1 - Mash a well modified ale malt at an initial temperature between 82-86°C (180-187°F). 2 - Target a low OG between 1.020 – 1.027 (5.1-6.8°P) 3 - Lauter as normal but ensure pH and gravity remain within normal brewing levels. (5.1-5.4) Acid additions may be necessary. 4 - Boil as normal, again being careful to maintain normal pH levels. It is also possible to add lactose at this stage to increase mouthfeel.

Less of this

5 - Ferment using maltotriose negative yeasts to lower the potential alcohol yield. Either Lalbrew® Windsor and Lalbrew® London.

more of this

Important things to consider • The pH needs to be tightly controlled. This can be done with acid additions or by using acid malt in the grist • Mouthfeel can be enhanced by using lactose and water enriched in chloride • Kettle hopping should be kept to a minimum • This work was done with well modified British ale malts

Table showing the example abv levels and fermentability achievable using this method

Calculated potential alcohol yields

fig. 3

% UNFERMENTABLE

Mash temperature °C (°F)

Mash time (min)

most brewing yeast strains

POTENTIAL %

maltotriose negative strains

maltose negative strains

most brewing strains

(Windsor or London)

maltotriose negative strains

maltose negative strains

(Windsor or London)

(Slants available on request)

74 (165.2)

60

2

24

89

1.3

1.0

0.03

78 (172.4)

60

24

42

94

1.0

0.8

0.02

82 (179.6)

60

44

57

95

0.7

0.6

0.01

86 (186.8)

60

63

71

96

0.6

0.5

0.01

95 (203)

60

53

62

96

0.8

0.7

0.01

For more information, you can reach us via email at brewing@lallemand.com

www.lallemandbrewing.com


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events 19 February 2020 - 22 February 2020

chelmsford winter beer festival King Edward VI Grammar School www.chelmsfordbeerandciderfestivals.org.uk 21 February 2020 - 22 February 2020

Alton Winter Beer Festival, Hampshire Alton College, Hampshire www.altonbeerfestival.co.uk 21 February 2020 - 22 February 2020

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16 January 2020 - 18 January 2020

29 February 2020

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23 January 2020 - 25 January 2020

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29 January - 1 February 2020

6 March 2020 -7 March 2020

Colchester winter ale festival

North Sussex Beer & Cider Festival

Colchester Arts Centre, Colchester www.colchestercamra.org.uk

Drill Hall, Horsham northsussex.camra.org.uk

February 26th 2020

3 April 2020 - 4 April 2020

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North Leeds Charity Beer Festival

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North Leeds Cricket Club, Leeds www.northleedscharitybeerfestival.co.uk

4 February 2020 - 8 February 2020

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13 February 2020 - 15 February 2020

9 April 2020 - 11 April 2020

love beer london

isle of man Winter beer festival

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The Royal Hall, Douglas www.iombeerfestival.com

74

December 2019

Brewers Journal



A BIG thank you... to ALL OUR UK CUSTOMERS

HERE’S TO a SUCCESSFUL year of BREWING IN 2020

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