The Brewers Journal May 2020, iss 4 vol 6

THE MAGAZINE FOR THE PROFESSIONAL BREWING INDUSTRY

BREWERS

J O U R N A L

MAY 2020 | VOLUME 6, ISSUE 4 ISSN 2059-6669

KIRKSTALL BREWERY The Yorkshire powerhouse plotting for the future

13 | BREWERS CHOICE: THE FULL LOWDOWN ON AWARDS

32 | CIDER: CREATING A CONNECTION

45 | FILTRATION AND ITS IMPACT ON HOP INTENSITY

DEMONSTRATE STAYING POWER

I

f we’ve learned anything since start-

support just for them.

ing out with this magazine nearly five years ago is that the brewing

She said: “Trade will not immediately

industry is blessed with a commu-

return to the level it was before the COV-

nity spirit that is unrivalled by most

ID-19 crisis hit when pubs reopen. Upon

others.

reopening, trade could be down by as much as half what it was before.

The UK is, of course, home to brewer-

“It will inevitably take time for consumer

ies of all shapes and sizes but we can

confidence to build. Social distancing

only speak from experience and that’s

restrictions in pubs will inevitably have a

this sector is an engaging, exciting and

direct effect on footfall in pubs.”

rewarding one to be part of.

We can be under no illusion that there But there can be no denying that the

are hurdles to overcome, both currently

current global situation is challenging

and those that lie ahead.

for businesses of all sizes, regardless of the industry you form part of. Recent re-

The boon in sales of small pack and

search (polling 282 breweries) from SIBA

growler/crowler fills thanks to collec-

revealed that the UK’s small independent

tions, deliveries and online orders is apt

breweries had recorded an 82% drop in

reward for the countless hours, days

sales since the outbreak of Covid-19.

and weeks of work spent making such

LEADER

avenues a viable business model in the

brewersjournal.info

The research showed that more than 65%

short-term. But in the meantime (we

of respondents had stopped brewing al-

won’t call it spare because that doesn’t

together. Of those involved in the survey,

exist) it’s also important to forward and

70% were offering new delivery or take-

plan ahead.

away services. So while local and online direct sales were up, other sales avenues

In this issue, John Keeling uses his

had unsurprisingly slowed or stopped.

monthly article to stress that you need a vision, a strategy and excellent com-

Elsewhere, the British Beer & Pub Associ-

munication to be a success. With that

ation (BBPA) has responded to Professor

in mind, it’s important to remember that

Chris Whitty’s comments that social dis-

strategy and vision are different. While

tancing will be needed until at least the

vision is used to inspire, strategy is about

end of 2020 to prevent fresh outbreaks of

how we do it and not why. Finally, effec-

Covid-19.

tive communication both internally and externally are vital. It’s a long road ahead

Emma McClarkin, chief executive of the

but we think that’s a good place to start.

BBPA said it was “clear” that the Government needed to give pubs special con-

The Brewers Journal Team

sideration for a restart, as well as specific

MAY 2020

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MAY 2020

CONTENTS

Industry News The latest news from across the brewing industry.

Brewers Choice Awards 2020 The full lowdown on the 2020 Brewers Choice Awards and how to enter for this year’s event.

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Dear John In these uncertain times, it’s important to take a step back at look at the business you’ve created.

18 Comment | Branding How has borrowing spirit codes contributed to the beer brand’s growing premiumisation and popularity? Steve Osborne takes a closer look.

20 Comment | Analysis How identifying different fluids in process pipework can be quickly and accurately achieved at the same time as measuring flowrates.

22 Trending | Business Planning It may sound easier said than done but now is not the time to panic. Instead, use the opportunity to reassess and learn from the experience.

24 Meet The Brewer | Kirkstall Brewery Why the Yorkshire brewery, with better beer than ever, is ready to broaden its horizons.

26 Sector | Cider Looking beyond beer to the world of cider and how it could complement your brewing business.

32

Science | Filtration and Hop Intensity Is the assumption that sterile filtration strips beer of its hop aroma well-founded?

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Beers supporting the NHS

London Beer Factory is one of a raft of breweries to have launched beers that support the NHS through its sales

CONTACTS Tim Sheahan Editor tim@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 592 Velo Mitrovich Deputy Editor velo@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 591

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Kirkstall Brewery

For nearly 10 years, Kirkstall Brewery has been bubbling away making great beer that people enjoy. So if you’re not already aware, it’s about time to sit up and take notice

18

Josh Henderson Head of sales josh@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 594 Jon Young Publisher jon@rebymedia.com Reby Media 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Herts, HP1 1PA, UK

SUBSCRIPTIONS The Brewers Journal is a published 10 times a year and mailed every February, March, April, May, June, July, September, October, November and December. Subscriptions can be purchased for 10 issues. Prices for single issue subscriptions or back issues can be obtained by emailing: subscribe@ rebymedia.com

Dear John

In these uncertain times, it’s important to take a step back at look at the business you’ve created and are part of.

32 The Cider Connection

Can a journey into the world of cidermaking bring something new the brewing process? It looks likely we won’t have to wait too long to find out.

UK & IRELAND £29 INTERNATIONAL £49 The content of The Brewers Journal is subject to copyright. However, if you would like to obtain copies of an article for marketing purposes high-quality reprints can be supplied to your specification.

Please contact the advertising team for full details of this service. The Brewers Journal is printed at Manson Group, St Albans, UK.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or any information storage or retrieval system, without the express prior written consent of the publisher. The Brewers Journal ISSN 2059-6650 is published bimonthly by Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA. Subscription records are maintained at Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA. The Brewers Journal accepts no responsibility for the accuracy of statements or opinion given within the Journal that is not the expressly designated opinion of the Journal or its publishers. Those opinions expressed in areas other than editorial comment may not be taken as being the opinion of the Journal or its staff, and the aforementioned accept no responsibility or liability for actions that arise therefrom.

CAMBRIDGE CITY COUNCIL ARE SEEKING

BREWERIES Cambridge City Council are seeking brewery contractors to tender for the provision of brewery services for their venues.

The Cambridge Corn Exchange is the largest venue in the region attracting over 200,000 people to 220+ events a year. There are a wide range of events programmed across the venues including: rock & pop gigs, theatre, live comedy, orchestral, and private hire.

The venue has a capacity of over 1,700 people.

The Guildhall is a smaller venue located adjacently to the Corn Exchange, this is a popular privately hired venue ideal for conferences, balls, weddings and parties, with approximately 180 events per year. It has a capacity for 700 people.

These venues are major assets to Cambridge City Council, both hosting a wide variety of events and functions throughout each year.

Key criteria is for; • High quality stock at competitive cost • Installation of equipment, maintenance and servicing • Mobile bar/bars https://procontract.due-north.com https://www.gov.uk/contracts-finder https://ted.europa.eu/TED/main/HomePage.do The start date of the new contract will be the 17th August 2020, if you are interested and would like to find out more please contact: Lesley George Strategic Procurement Officer Lesley-Ann.George@cambridge.gov.uk 01223 458178

NEWS

A

NEWBARNS BREWERY OPENS IN LEITH

new brewery, setup by former members of London’s Kernel and Beaver-

The pub is at the centre of the team’s

town, has started trading in Leith, Scotland.

ethos at Newbarns, focusing on produc-

Newbarns Brewery is focused beers that “look and taste” like beer,

ing delicious, sessionable beers, to be

inspired by classic styles such as clean, crisp Munich lagers and vibrant,

enjoyed with friends and family in the

hop-forward pale ales.

comfortable and familiar surroundings

The brewery was established in 2019 in Leith, Scotland by partners Gordon McKenzie

only a good pub can provide.

and Emma McIntosh, formerly of Kernel, along with friends Jonny Hamilton and Fred-

Commenting on the idea of launching

die Bjerkseth, formerly of Beavertown.

during challenging times, they explained:

McKenzie and McIntosh “fell into brewing” after relocating to London in 2012, with the

“This is where we’re at folks. We were a week or so away from being able to brew our first batch of beer at our brand-new site in Leith before COVID-19 came along.

“The final installation of our brewery–to increase our gas supply into the building to power the steam generator–was due to begin on April 1st. The gas network are now only dealing with emergency works, and we have been put on hold until things go back to normal, whenever that happens.

“It’ll be a month or so after that happens until we’ll be able to brew our first batch at our own brewery. Like many others in our situation, a global pandemic wasn’t something that had crossed our minds when writing the business plan.”

So, they needed a plan B. They added: “We are lucky enough to have some wonderful friends in the brewing industry who have spare capacity at the moment, and so in the coming days, we will begin to contract to brew our core beers at these breweries.

“Everything we’ll brew for the foreseeable future will be going into small-pack, available to purchase via our webshop.

former spending two years at Berkshire’s Siren Brewery before moving on to The Ker-

“Throughout this whole process, we will

nel, where McIntosh was already based.

continue to plan ahead, and make sure

They met Jonny and Freddie through a mutual love of beer and pubs. The pair bring

we’re doing everything we can to ensure

considerable experience to the Newbarns team, with Freddie working as a sales ac-

everyone involved will remain safe and

count manager, and Jonny heading up Beavertown’s Tempus barrel-ageing project.

healthy.”

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NORTHERN MONK TIES WITH AUNT BESSIE’S FOR BEER DUO

THORNBRIDGE LAUNCHES FLORENCE TO SUPPORT NHS

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orthern Monk has collaborated with Hull-based Aunt Bessie’s to product two beers based on a two-course roast dinner.

Roast Dinner Brown Ale has been brewed with Aunt Bessie’s Yorkshire puddings and roast potatoes while Jam Roly Poly is based on the company’s desert of the same name.

It is the first collaboration between the brands and also the first time a roast dinner beer has ever been attempted.

The beers have been brewed at Northern Monk’s Leeds-based brewery, with the two brands working together on the recipe and ingredients. Sunday Dinner, a 5.7% Roast Dinner Brown Ale, is brewed with actual Aunt Bessie’s Crisp & Fluffy Roasties andOriginal Golden Yorkshires.

Jam Roly Poly, a 5% Jam & Custard Pale Ale, is a recipe inspired by the Aunt Bessie’s product, and is brewed with plum, apricot and strawberry – the same fruits

Thornbridge brewery is launching its

used in the Aunt Bessie’s product, along with custard to round out the flavours.

latest beer, Florence, in response to the

Northern Monk founder Russell Bisset, said: “It’s been an honour working with Aunt

COVID-19 pandemic.

Bessie’s, a truly iconic Northern brand. There’s nothing quite like a Sunday Roast

All profits raised from sales of this beer

with all the trimmings, and on a weekend where we’d usually be getting together

will be donated to NHS Charities Togeth-

with our families for a traditional Sunday Dinner, we’ve teamed up to bring you

er. Thornbridge wanted to find a way to

something a little different.

support healthcare workers helping us all at this difficult time.

Having launched a 25% discount for all NHS workers for beer ordered via their webshop they decided to go a step further and brew a beer to support NHS Charities Together.

Once their pubs reopen Thornbridge also have plans to put on a number of parties for NHS workers, to thank them for the work they have undertaken.

As 2020 is The Year of the Nurse and Midwife as well as the celebration of what would have been Florence Nightingales 200th birthday. Thornbridge chose the name Florence as an acknowledgement to Florence Nightingale, the founder of modern nursing and one-time local resident of Derbyshire.

Simon Webster, Co-Founder and Owner of Thornbridge Brewery, said: “Those

“We’ve worked together to create something that’s never been done before, and

working for the NHS at this time are do-

we hope that it brings some well-needed positivity to the nation.”

ing such an incredible job and we wanted

Sam Dolan, head of marketing at Aunt Bessie’s, added: “There’s nothing like com-

to find a way to support them.

ing together with loved ones over a roast dinner and a cold beer, and so to join

“What better way than to brew a beer

forces with a fellow Northern brand to create something which has never been

to honour them and donate all profits to

done before is really special.

NHS Charities Together.”

“We’re sure Aunt Bessie’s fans are going to love the combination of a two-course

Florence, a 4.5% session IPA, will be avail-

roast dinner beer and as we celebrate Aunt Bessie’s 25th birthday this year, what

able in bottle from Mid-May at

better way to mark the occasion?”

thornbridge.co.uk.

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MAY 2020

BREWERS JOURNAL

LONDON BEER FACTORY RELEASES BEERS IN SUPPORT OF NHS

London Beer Factory has launched two new beers, Lifesavers and National Heroes, in support of the NHS during the Corona virus pandemic.

All revenue from the sale of both beers will be donated to King’s College Hospital Charity and Guy’s Hospital Charity.

Managing director, Sim Cotton, said: “These are hospitals that are held particularly close to our hearts at London Beer Factory. King’s is down the road from the brewery in Gipsy Hill. “Guy’s is a stone’s throw from our Barrel Project in Bermondsey and a major centre of the fight against Corona virus.�

Packaging two beers that would normally be sold on draught in pubs, bars and restaurants London Beer Factory look to help raise money for the NHS during this exceptionally challenging time.

The beers themselves are a gluten-free, 4% easy drinking lager called National Heroes – 100% of the revenue from this beer will be donated to Guy’s Hospital and the secon is a 4.2% American pale ale, Lifesavers, with 100% of revenue being donated to King’s College Hospital.

FERMENTATION RANGE 25 to 40°C (77 to 104°F) FLOCCULATION Very high ALCOHOL TOLERANCE 12% ABV ATTENUATION Medium to high

VOSS

LalBrewÂŽ voss

www.lallemandbrewing.com

brewersjournal.info

MAY 2020

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300+ BREWERIES COLLAB FOR ALL TOGETHER

A

massive global collab-

ed beer collaboration created to raise

Foundation. As much as this is about

oration, which has been

support for the industry we love so much.

raising money, this is also an exercise

taken up by more than

It’s an effort to raise awareness and pro-

in awareness so that local communities

300 breweries, is using the

vide relief, even in the smallest way, to

can understand how daily life has been

same recipe (pretty much)

those who are struggling. We’re inviting

upended for those that rely on social

to raise money for brewery and hospital-

any brewer, from any corner of the planet

gathering to make a living.

ity workers.

to participate. The recipe is open source,

“At the end of the day, this is about what

“There is an inextricable link that binds

the artwork is public, and the name is

it’s always been about—community.

together everyone in the hospitality

yours to use. The goal is to provide you

While we may not be able to come to-

industry. Brewers, servers, bartenders,

with the tools to make the beer at the

gether in person right now, that spirit can

bussers, dishwashers, GMs, buyers,

lowest possible cost.

never be taken away from us. If we do our

chefs, owners—we are all in this together.

“We ask that a portion of the proceeds

part to protect and support each other,

In this industry, when one of us struggles,

go to supporting hospitality professionals

that spirit can actually be strengthened.

the rest of us pick them up. It’s baked into

in your community. The rest should go

“Be safe, be good to one another. We’re

who we are,” says Sam, Matt, and Andrew

to keeping you in business to weather

here for you,” says Sam, Matt, and An-

of Other Half Brewing.

this storm. For us, proceeds will go to

drew.

“’All Together’ is a worldwide, open-end-

the Restaurant Workers Community

BREWDOG LAUNCH NONALCOHOLIC BEER COLLAB BrewDog has teamed up with Lamb of God, a best-selling metal band from Richmond Virginia, on a non-alcoholic beer collaboration.

The beer, Ghost Walker, was brewed and canned at BrewDog’s Columbus Ohio brewery.

It’s named after one of the band’s most popular songs, “Ghost Walking,” from their 2012 album Resolution. Lamb of God vocalist, Randy Blythe, wrote the lyrics as he started his journey toward an

sic American IPAs he used to drink,” said

recipe was “a true meeting of the minds”.

alcohol-free lifestyle.

BrewDog.

Ghost Walker has a hop-forward flavour,

Blythe’s introduction to BrewDog started

On a night off between gigs in 2019,

containing less than 0.5% alcohol.

while traveling in Scotland. He sampled

the band visited BrewDog Franlinkton,

They said: “Tropical aromas harmonize

Nanny State at a Scottish pub and was

shared a few non-alcoholic pints with the

with grassy, pine notes, all sitting on a

“blown away”. Thinking that it must have

staff, and the idea behind Ghost Walker

solid malt baseline, proving that non-al-

contained alcohol, he tried to send it

was born.

coholic beer can taste just as good.

back to the bartender.

He then joined the brewing team to help

“It provides non-drinkers, and people

“Randy was hyped to be told it was truly

choose the hop profile that makes up

who may want a beer, but not the alco-

alcohol-free, likening the flavour to clas-

the brew. From beginning to end, this AF

hol, a quality craft beverage option.

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MAY 2020

BREWERS JOURNAL

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2020

Brewers Choice ENTER FREE AT:

awards.brewersjournal.info Deadline: 31st August 2020 Winners announced 8 December 2020 Full terms and conditions available at awards.brewersjournal.info

L

ast year we launched the Brewers Choice Awards; designed to recognise the

ENTER THE BREWERS CHOICE AWARDS FOR FREE AWARDS.BREWERSJOURNAL.INFO

pinnacle of UK brewing, and to put the best of the best in

the spotlight.

We’re proud that the Brewers Choice Awards return in 2020 and of course,

New Brewery of the Year

New Beer of the Year

A

I

of The Year and Lifetime Achievement

IPA, some mixed-fermentation sours

Some riff on classic styles, some attempt

Award. And to crown these worthy

and some a mix of each. Regardless,

to refine them, some forge their own

winners, we need you.

each tread their own different path in the

path. But it’s that variety that makes

There is a wealth of incredible beer being

industry of brewing.

everything so exciting. In this category,

produced in the UK. The best beers

We want to hear about those early

we want to recognise the beer that has

deliver fantastic flavour and awe-inspiring

landmark points for the business. Maybe

made its mark on the landscape in a

aroma, they’re consistent and leave a

you’ve offered employment to local

relative short time.

lasting impression whether it’s a one-off

people, it could be the investments

In your entry, you should tell us the name

brew or a year-round number that offers

you’ve made, securing deals for your first

of the beer, the style of the beer, ABV%,

up that sought after reliability.

beers with pubs, bars or restaurants. It

and overview and also any tasting notes.

These beers are being produced by

could be all of the above.

brilliant breweries of all shapes and

Tell us about your brewery’s approach to

sizes, some new and some older. Some

facets of business such as its work in the

employ an individual and others offer

community, commitment to training and

employment to dozens, or more.

developing its staff, relationships with the

If you you’re doing to shouting about,

broader industry and your approach to

tell us. You can enter one, or all of the

issues such as sustainability.

they’re bigger and better than ever!

The Brewers Choice Awards are split into eight categories: Brewery Of The Year, New Brewery of The Year, Young Brewer of The Year, Brewer of The Year, Beer of the Year, New Beer of The Year, Branding

raft of excellent new breweries have opened in the last 36 months. Some of these outfits

have focused on the art of Lager, some

categories. Or nominate a brewer for the Lifetime Achievement Award.

These awards will be presented during the industry party taking place at The Brewery on 8th December and also announced online and in the print edition of The Brewers Journal.

SUPPORTED BY:

Brewery of the Year

T

n a matter of seconds we can think of a dozen, nay dozens, of truly fantastic beers that have been produced in

recent months.

Beer of the Year

B

eer is a thing of beauty. That’s something we can all agree on, as we wouldn’t be here

otherwise.

We want to celebrate the very best the UK has to offer. We’re not looking at dozens of different categories here,

o contend this award, we want

instead recognising one beer: The

to see a detailed overview of the

Brewers Choice Beer of The Year.

business success you’ve had in

It could be a new beer you’re super

the last 12 months. This will include full

proud of, or an existing beer that is its

financials or your trading figures for the

finest form to date following months

last year and your predicted future year

or years of working on the recipe and

figures.

dialling it right in.

Please showcase any key moments for

With a panel of industry experts, we’ll

the business such as new investments

be judging the beer on Aroma, Taste,

you’ve made, perhaps new distribution

Appearance and Marketing. In your entry,

deals you’ve struck or successes you’ve

you should tell us the name of the beer,

had in exporting your beer to other

the style of the beer, ABV%, and overview

countries.

and also any tasting notes.

As last year’s winners Northern Monk did so effectively, tell us about your brewery’s approach to facets of business such as its work in the community, and its commitment to training and developing its staff.

What investment have you made in the

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MAY 2020

Young Brewer of the Year

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t comes as literally no surprise that there are some incredibly talented young brewers working in the UK

brewing industry. In a tightly-fought

laboratory side of the brewery, and tell us

category in 2019, Alice Batham of

about your relationships with the wider

Thornbridge aptly demonstrated why she

industry and approach to sustainability.

deserved such an accolade.

BREWERS JOURNAL

The winners of two accolades in 2019, Northern Monk

Some young brewers are running their

beers they create, expansion they’ve

own operations, others are cutting their

overseen or a team they’ve built. Maybe

teeth working at established outfits.

it’s all of those. We’d like you to provide

Regardless, these brewers are making

a maximum of two references from

their mark on the industry and are certain

employer(s).

to have a long, successful career in the field.

Young is, also, a subjective term. You are only as old as you feel, of course. But for the purpose of this category, a young brewer is anyone under the age of 30.

Branding of the Year

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et’s be clear, great branding helps sell beer. Now we have that revelation out of the way, we want

John Hatch accepting the Lifetime Achievement Award

Tell us about your responsibilities and

this category to showcase the stunning

successes in last 12 months.

array of design that breweries leverage

Maybe a recipe you developed, or the

to brand their beers. From the striking to

impact you’ve had on the company’s

the subtle, modern beer is blessed with

packaging operations, or improvements

some truly impressive branding; from the

to quality and consistency thanks to the

work that graces bottles and cans to keg

Young’s brewery. A passion project that

work you carry out in the lab. We’d also

founts, cask badges and beyond. Show

came into being upon the news that

like to you provide a maximum of two

us what you got!

Young’s was to shutter it’s London brew-

references from employer(s).

Brewer of the Year

O

ne of the finest qualities many brewers boast is humility. So this

ing business back in 2006, John Hatch

Lifetime Achievement

T

ensured that although the brewery would be leaving the site, brewing wouldn’t.

he inaugural Brewers Choice

In 2020 we want to shine the spotlight

Awards featured an accolade of

on another great of this industry. We’ve

designed to recognise lifetime

seen fantastic brewers retire and move

achievement. It recognised a brewer

on. We’ve seen brewers do what they’ve

convincing/persuading/forcing when

that has played an integral role in the

always done and that’s play their part in

it comes to ensuring these excellent

UK brewing industry and the brewery he

producing excellent, reliable beer that

brewers are considered. We want to

brews in. The Ram Brewery is no normal

forms such an important part in many

acknowledge a brewer that is truly an

brewery.

people’s lives. It will recognise a brewer

industry tour de force. What sets you,

Instead, it’s a truly unique operation

that has played an incredibly important

or them, apart from the rest? Is it the

housed on the grounds of the old

part in the UK brewing industry.

category is likely to need some

brewersjournal.info

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BREWERS CONGRESS SUPER EARLY BIRD TICKETS ON SALE TWO DAY PASS

DAY ONE

DAY TWO

FULL PRICE: £200 EARLY BIRD: £150 SUPER EARLY BIRD: £120

T

E

The 1950’s Prom themed evening will

the UK brewing Calendar. More than

see UK brewers and their partners dress

300 breweries come together to share

to impress as they indulge in a cocktail

their knowledge of brewing, industry

reception, a lavish three course meal and

trends, developments in methodology,

unlimited beer, wine and soft drinks as

technology and ingredients.

DAY TWO ONLY FULL PRICE: £105 EARLY BIRD: £79 SUPER EARLY BIRD: £63 (PRICES EXCLUDE VAT)

he Brewers Congress 2020 kicks off with an industry wide Christmas Party and Brewers

Choice Awards celebrations!

ducation and team development is at the heart of the Brewers Congress mission. Day two is

the largest gathering of breweries in

they dance and celebrate into the early hours.

Registration from 8am Session 1 starts at 9am

Cocktail reception starts at 6pm

Ends 5pm

Carriages at 1am

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MAY 2020

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DEAR JOHN

VISION, STRATEGY, COMMUNICATION

IN THESE UNCERTAIN TIMES, IT’S IMPORTANT TO TAKE A STEP BACK AT LOOK AT THE BUSINESS YOU’VE CREATED AND ARE PART OF. YES WE ARE IN A CHALLENGING PERIOD BUT, WHERE POSSIBLE, USE IT TO PLAN FOR THE FUTURE, EXPLAINS JOHN KEELING.

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L

ike everyone, else my plans

packaging. But there is no beating

came to a sudden halt. One

around the bush, sales are dramatically

minute I am booking flights

down. Just spare a thought for the poor

to Texas and the next, I have

retail staff where everything has just

totally reduced my trips out

stopped.

of the house to one per week to get the

However, this crisis will continue for some

shopping. That’s if there is anything left

time and this will leave brewers with

on the shelves.

plenty of time on their hands. So what, if

I am in the fortunate position of being

anything, would be useful to do during

retired so I haven’t the worries or

lockdown?

uncertainty of a job in this crisis. So, I can

Obviously, a deep clean of the plant,

amuse myself by listening to music and

walls and floors is always useful to do

reading books. Also, I can do the thing I

but that will only take a few days at most.

most enjoy is thinking.

Inventory and stock checking can last a

I have always been a thinker.

day at a push. When all that is done what

Well that’s what Symone says, at least

is there left to do?

that’s what I think she says…

Well here are a few things to consider:

I know that brewers are still brewing

Now is a good time to dust down that

albeit in reduced volumes with no

old vision statement you produced when

draught beer being packaged. However,

you started the business. What do you

small pack continues for some. Some

mean you don’t have one?! A vision is

brewing has to be done to maintain yeast

a very useful tool to explain what the

vitality for those lucky to have their own

business is about both to external people

yeast and the ability to re-pitch.

like investors and consumers but also

Some brewers will still be contract

internally to the work force.

BREWERS JOURNAL

A salesperson or any other member

vision document and could have sales,

both the Vision and Strategy internally.

of your team who understands the

distribution and produc-tion plans within

Then you can also use them in

company vision will feel part of the

it. Whenever I was involved in this type

communications with the outside world;

business and not just somebody

of work, I tended to allow the sales

especially the bit on standards and

employed to do a job. What should

forecasts to get ahead of production

values.

be in your vision? Sure, it must include

planning to make sure the sales were “in

This step is incredibly important, if you

something about where you want to be

the bag” so to speak before committing

want to lead a team then you must do

e.g: the benchmark brewer of barley

to plant expansion.

this, if you are content with telling people

wines. But it should also have something

what to do 24 hours a day, seven days

about standards and values e.g: we will

I think this is particularly important in

a week then don’t bother to do it. Plus,

not test our beer on animals.

small businesses where cash-flow is king.

never complain that people won’t make

Once you have a vision document you

However, before publishing the strategy

decisions.

could try to boil it down into a simple

document you should make sure all

statement e.g: Quality, Service and Pride

departments have had their say on the

You don’t have to do this the way I have

(where did I get that from). I always then

realism of the plans included.

outlined but I would always try to adhere

look to sense check my vision by asking

When you are working for a small

to certain principles

trusted colleagues or friends to read it

company then this should be incredibly

1. Strategy and vision are different

and give feedback.

easy because the number of people

2. Vision is used to inspire

involved is very small, however I have

3. Strategy is about how we do it not why

Once you have a vision document then a

known this to be messed up even then.

4. Communication both internally and

strategy document naturally falls out of it.

This document should definitely not fall

externally are vital

This document is mainly for internal use

into the hands of competitors so you

If you get the above correct it will feel like

or to show to investors. It can contain a

might want to consider its distribution

King Arthur and the Knights of the Round

summary of a one, two- and three-year

and also a “watered” down version that

Table, get it wrong and it feel like the sad

plans. Further into the future if needed.

you could allow a wide distribution of.

old Duke of York marching his army up

It will contain more detail than the

The next task is then to communicate

and down the same old hill. u

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HOW CRAFT BEER CHANGED THE RULES OF BRANDING AND PACKAGING HOW HAS BORROWING SPIRIT CODES CONTRIBUTED TO THE BEER BRAND'S GROWING PREMIUMISATION AND POPULARITY? STEVE OSBORNE OF BRANDING AGENCY OSBORNE PIKE TAKES A CLOSER LOOK.

D

uring my 30 years of

That’s another level.

brand design consultancy,

The punk metaphor was no accident,

I can think of just a few

and I don’t think it’s too much of a stretch

truly game-changing

to compare the branding tropes of craft

moments. In hindsight it’s

beer with the album art of ‘alternative’

normally easy to understand both the

music in all of its forms.

causes (societal or technological change)

Just as punk rock, jazz, rap, death metal

and effects (design and marketing codes).

and more arose to replace commoditized

Craft beer took me a bit longer.

popular music and stadium rock, so

Why are consumers, including me, happy

craft did the same for beer. With creative

to pay more for an abstract, psychedelic

artists as natural partners, craft beers

artwork on a can than a beautifully

became identifiable by the vibrant

designed traditional bottle, with richly

naivety or painstaking artistry of their

embossed glass and a label oozing

designs.

luxury print effects?

It’s obvious that craft beer has been

But are any of them actually ‘branded’?

a major disruptive force. The early

At first sight the design language looks

entrepreneurs, first in the USA and later

like anarchy unleashed, but on closer

in the UK, re-invigorated the beer world

inspection many (though not all) craft

and excited drinkers with countless new

brands use disciplined design systems,

(or re-discovered) tastes and styles.

and more importantly: recognisable

I viscerally experienced this seismic shift

Distinctive Assets, the DNA of branding.

when I first read the label of Brew Dog’s

Whilst these are normally found in

Punk IPA a decade ago: “This is not a

corporate logos, colours and symbols,

lowest common denominator beer. This

why not extend the definition to an Artist’s

is an assertive beer. We don’t care if you

unique style of illustration? The key to

don’t like it….”

branding is consistency, and to new generations of visually literate consumers

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MAY 2020

I remember being captivated by

(who practically live on image-driven

innocent’s ‘chatty packs’, but BrewDog

social media), identifying a ‘style’ is what

were telling lager drinkers to “f**k off!”

they do all the time.

BREWERS JOURNAL

Initially dismissed as a fad, the growth

Our client Hertog Jan, based in a tiny

rates and price points of craft beers

brewery in the southern Netherlands,

eventually made the big players take

has been brewing regional speciality

notice; especially when beer as we knew

beers since well before the term ‘craft’

it was predicted to slowly decline, as

was invented. Of all his beers, Head

consumers drank less, but better. Three

Brewer Gerard van den Broek is most

of the outlandish designs above are

proud of ‘Grand Prestige’, a Belgian style

now partly the property of major global

Quadrupel (known in the UK as barley

corporations, but just as with Ben &

wine).

Above: Osborne Pike’s work with client Hertog Jan and brewer Gerard van den Broek

Jerry’s Ice Cream, you’d never guess.

In the UK craft represents around 6% of

Since 2017 it’s also been available in

market value, compared with over four

a limited release barrel-aged edition.

times that in the USA, so it’s not about

Packaged in an elegant 750ml wire-

to bring down the citadel. But it has had

corked bottle and weighing in at 12-14%

a profound effect on the design codes

ABV, craft beer fans are happy to part

being used across the board.

with €20 a bottle for the experience.

2019’s ‘Dutch Masters’ series was aged in

Many trendsetting on-trade outlets have

the barrels of three of The Netherlands’

swopped classic ‘International premium

finest Jenever distillers. This design,

lager’ taps for brands like Camden that

depicting the famously complex recipes

have a clearer link to the Zeitgeist.

and processes of Jenever making,

Even real ales, the Dad’s Army who

helped to sell out the entire u

bravely held the fort for browner beers before craft came to the rescue, have had major makeovers to get with the program, much to the annoyance of some of their more diehard drinkers.

As well as completely re-inventing what beers look and taste like, craft has also reinvented what people are prepared to pay for it.

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ACCURATE ANALYSIS H

IDENTIFYING DIFFERENT FLUIDS IN THE PROCESS PIPEWORK BOTH QUICKLY AND ACCURATELY CAN BE A CHALLENGE. HERE KIERAN BENNETT, FIELD SEGMENT MANAGER FOR HYGIENE IN FOOD AND BEVERAGE AT BĂœRKERT FLUID CONTROL SYSTEMS EXPLAINS THAT THIS CAN NOW BE ACHIEVED AT THE SAME TIME AS MEASURING FLOWRATES.

ygienic manufacturing

continues to drain for a further period,

focus on cleanliness

until it is certain that none of the water or

and product quality, in

cleaning solutions are in the line.

some cases to the point where valuable product

To be sure there is no contamination,

is disposed of in the process of ensuring

safety factors are built-in to these

the necessary standards are maintained.

processes, which inevitably mean that

For companies in the food and beverage

a certain amount of cleaning fluid and

sector to reduce waste, the challenge

saleable product are sent to the drain.

is to quickly and accurately identify

By offering a method of very accurately

different fluids in the process pipework,

identifying the fluids and their flow

which can now be achieved at the same

volume in the pipework, BĂźrkert can

time as measuring flowrates.

deliver considerable cost savings

Flowmeters come in all shapes and sizes

as well as improving productivity for

and finding the most appropriate design

manufacturers.

for a particular application can be difficult.

The Flowave flowmeter uses surface

However, for hygienic applications, the

acoustic wave (SAW) technology to

starting line-up will be considerably

obtain a direct measurement of flow

shorter because those that are difficult

combined with temperature readings and

to clean or unable to withstand Clean in

interpretations for density (as a density

Place (CIP) procedures, will be ruled out.

factor), and an acoustic transmission factor, which gives an indication of

In fact, these cleaning processes have a

bubbles, solids and viscosity. Together,

significant impact on many aspects of the

these parameters can be analysed to

design when it comes to selecting the

provide real-time indications of the

most suitable components. CIP uses both

contents of the pipework.

heat and chemicals to remove scale,

For hygienic applications, Flowave is

bacteria and debris from process vessels

ideal, the smooth wall flow-through

and pipework, which will often include a

pipe design means there is no direct

flowmeter.

contact of any sensor components with

Modern production facilities will be

the fluid. In addition, as a stainless steel

used to produce a range of products

tube, it can be manufactured to the same

and manufacturers are faced with the

diameter and surface finish as the rest

challenge of ensuring that one product is

of the pipeline, meaning that, in terms of

not contaminated with another. In many

hygiene, cleaning and flow conditions,

cases this process is completed using a

there is no difference to any other piece

timer, so, when the first product run has

of straight pipe.

finished, the lines and vessels are flushed

22

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MAY 2020

and cleaned, with the output going to the

This ground-breaking solution for flow

drain.

measurement uses the combination

The duration of the water/cleaning flush

of density factor and the acoustic

is a fixed period which guarantees that

transmission factor to accurately

none of the previous product remains in

determine what fluids are in the system

the system. Then the next product to be

at a particular point - and to minimise the

manufactured starts to flow, and this also

amount of saleable product that is sent

BREWERS JOURNAL

The Type 8905 is ideal for applications due to the smooth wall flow-through pipe design means there is no direct contact of any sensor components with the fluid

to the drain as part of a safety margin.

Similarly, if a cleaning process is being used, savings in both time and materials can be made by having a clear indication when the process has been completed.

In real-world examples, operators have found that they not only save product that would have otherwise been wasted, but they also save considerable amounts of time. By reducing the total time attributed to a change-over, in some

tuned, but essentially, while a mixture of

as more manufacturers take advantage

cases up to 50%, the productivity of the

fluids passes through the FLOWave, the

of this revolutionary technology, an even

process is greatly improved. In addition,

values will be changing. Once it stabilises

wider range of applications becomes

the reduction in the amount of fluids

around the value set for one of the pure

apparent.

being sent to the drain also delivers

fluids a signal can be sent to change the

For the food and beverage sector, the

savings in water treatment costs.

valve position that directs fluids to drain

simple, physical design makes Flowave

or to packaging.

easy to integrate into an existing

During the commissioning process of a

In addition, FLOWave can give an

installation and its control infrastructure.

Flowave, the various fluids that will be

indication of the level of carbonation, in

The ability to offer improved control

experienced in the system are calibrated

terms of a percentage, or the amount of

systems that reduce waste, save time

for acoustic transmission factor and

fruit pulp in a juice, or the cocoa solids

and maintain rigorous hygiene standards

density factor. This process can be fine-

content of chocolate for example. In fact,

are distinct advantages for the industry. u

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T 01449 618300

muntons.com

MAY 2020

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23

TRENDING IT MAY SOUND EASIER SAID THAN DONE BUT NOW IS NOT THE TIME TO PANIC. INSTEAD, USE THE OPPORTUNITY TO REASSESS, LEARN FROM THE EXPERIENCE AND USE IT TO IMPROVE YOUR BUSINESS, ARGUES VELO MITROVICH.

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MAY 2020

QUIT KICKING YOURSELF AND LOOK AHEAD

I

n October 1991, a fire broke out in

This turned out being a journey which

the hills above the San Francisco

had more in common with the navy boat

Bay Area cities of Oakland and

going up river in the Vietnam movie

Berkeley. The fire killed 25 people,

Apocalypse Now than anything else, with

another 150 were injured and

each bend of the road giving us further

nearly 3,000 homes burned down, along

bizarre, nightmarish scenes.

with 437 apartment and condominium

Finally near the top, in an area that the

blocks. It was a fire I knew extremely well.

fire had already burned through, we

Being with the Coast Guard in the Bay

stopped and surveyed all around us. It

Area, a small token crew of us were

seemed like forever we were all coming

dispatched to help in fighting it. Being

up with a million reasons why the disaster

the chief in charge, I soon discovered

happened and what steps they could

that besides fighting the fire, a bigger

have done to have prevented it – not that

obstacle was trying to overcome the

at this stage it would have mattered one

bureaucracies of the two cities.

iota.

For example, with it being a dry, windy

I think a lot of us are going through the

day, you’d think that the Berkeley

same thing right now, except instead of

Fire Department might have picked

it being some stranger’s house that was

up the phone and told their Oakland

lost, it’s our own brewery which is in a

counterparts that an out-of-control fire

tough spot. What could we have done

was heading directly their way, but they

differently?

didn’t.

You’d think that over the years the two

Could any of us predicted the worldwide

cities – being butt-up next to each other

impact the Coronavirus would have?

– would have had the same size fire

For the last decade Bill Gates has been

hydrant outlets, but they didn’t.

saying that this is exactly what would

And you’d think that all departments

happen, but he has been the exception.

would be using the same radio channels

I was talking to a friend, who does

so that the police down below – in

business coaching, about the brewing

ignorance – wouldn’t be holding back

industry and the issues it’s facing both

traffic coming down the hill, which

here and in the States. She said that the

resulted in people being burned to death

problem is obvious, brewers ignored the

in their cars further up in grid-lock traffic.

three-leg stool principle.

But, that’s what happened.

In the end, to escape from massive

The what?

stupidity which I thought could not end

You don’t base your income on just one

well for us, I decided to lead my crew

leg, said Rachel, you base it on three.

up the hills away from everyone else.

You have a taproom, small pack for

BREWERS JOURNAL

supermarkets, bottle shops and online

that for years, the industry has put a

Guard story, but here goes. You’re trained

orders, and you do kegs/casks for on-

premium on velocity. The numbers of

how to escape from a ditched, sinking

trade. That way, you can lose one leg but

units, per SKU, per store, per week your

helicopter by being strapped down

the stool stays upright.

product sells. Elliot said that velocity’s

into a mock cockpit on a rail, and then

I was tempted to tell Rachel that no

reign has ended. The new queen is

being tumbled head-over-heels – like

three-legged stool can stand on just one

capital-efficiency. Brands that use their

an amusement park ride – into a deep

or two legs, but I got her point. However,

cash wisely, have less fixed costs, have

swimming pool.

the thing is, none of us are going to call

a short cash conversion cycle, and have

Once the tumbling stops, every instinct

up Tesco’s right now and be given shelf

sound unit economics will win the day.

in your body is telling you to release the straps and swim to the surface for AIR!

space by noon. And pubs and taprooms, they’re not going to be open for a while.

Many brewers see making customer lists,

The problem is, after all those spins, you

So, what to do?

tweeting customers with specials, and

have no idea which way is up, and you’ll

using Facebook to maintain a presence

see coastie after coastie swimming into

The first thing is, stop kicking yourself for

is the ultimate waste of their time. You’re

the bottom of the pool until rescued by

how your business was set-up and the

not going to make a fortune shipping Bob

the life guard. But, if you’re clever, when

situation you’re in, look ahead to how

and Tina a four-pack during times like

the tumbling stops you do nothing for a

your brewery should be run, and learn

this, in fact, you’ll actually probably be

few seconds, you sit there calmly, let out

from this experience – it will be definitely

losing something on every can you sell.

a few air bubbles, and you can then see

something to put on your brewery CV.

But, you need to keep reminding your

which way is up.

Here are some thoughts of things you

customers that you’re still here.

Right now, don’t panic. The virus has

need to take onboard.

One thing consumers will take away

already happened and things such as

About 100-years-ago, Gandhi wrote that

from this is that shopping is a right pain.

pubs reopening, furlough pay, small

along with transporting passengers,

For those of us spoiled by supermarket

business loans running out of money are

trains also transport disease. It is

deliveries and suddenly losing our slots,

out of your hands. What you can start

probably best that he didn’t live to the

spending 45 minutes in a Sainsburys

doing is planning ahead. Regardless of

see the days of low-cost air travel. The

shopping line, two-metres apart, is not

the Coronavirus, summer is coming and

reason why COVID-19 spread so quickly

something we want to repeat. When this

with it is your best chance to make up for

is not because it’s a powerhouse of a

happens again, how are you going to

lost sales.

virus, it spread so quickly because it is

make their lives easier buying your beer?

just so easy for it to do so. One thing

You don’t have time or the manpower?

How will this happen?

you can count on is, a year after the last

Then think third party logistics.

How are you going to get your beer into their hands? Why will they want your

Coronavirus patient has died, any and all travel safety measures will become a

If COVID-19 made it apparent that putting

beer, what excitement will you bring their

thing of the past. Until the next time….

all your eggs in your taproom basket was

summer? Think calmly, let out a few air

Elliot Begoun, founder of TIG – a practice

not a good idea, what steps will you take

bubbles, and see which was to swim out

focused on helping emerging natural

to ensure this doesn’t happen again?

of this mess. You’re going to make, trust

product brands grow – recently wrote

I hate to leave you with another Coast

me. u

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A BREWERY FOR ALL SEASONS I FOR NEARLY 10 YEARS, KIRKSTALL BREWERY HAS BEEN BUBBLING AWAY MAKING GREAT BEER THAT PEOPLE ENJOY. IT’S NOW ARMED WITH A SHINY NEW TAPROOM, AND ITS OUTPUT IS TASTING BETTER THAN EVER. SO IF YOU’RE NOT ALREADY AWARE IT’S ABOUT TIME TO SIT UP AND TAKE NOTICE, SAYS TIM SHEAHAN.

f you’re ever in Leeds, it would be

pub (see image on next spread).

understandable if you took the A65 a few minutes north-west out of

Inman was recently described online as a

the city to visit one of Yorkshire’s

‘brewer’s brewer’ and it’s easy to see why.

must-visit attractions. I talk not of

Like Kelly, he’s pensive, thoughtful and

the much-loved Emmerdale Studio Ex-

reserved. Little to nothing is said without

perience but instead, another temple to a

it being internally mused on a moment

pillar of British culture, Kirkstall Brewery.

previously.

A literal stone’s throw from the attrac-

The week prior, Inman had returned

tion honouring Yorkshire’s favourite TV

to his old employer; Thornbridge of

soap, the brewing outfit celebrates its

Bakewell, Derbyshire. He was there to

10th anniversary in 2021. But despite an

brew a collaboration with Thornbridge

impressive near decade in business, its

brewer Dominic Driscoll. The fruits of

ethos and approach to beer has changed

their labour was 1946 Mild, a 3.8% beer

not one jot; and that’s to make beer the

designed to recreate Joshua Tetley’s

team and their customers enjoy.

post-war light mild recipe.

“You’d be stupid not to be aware of

“(Head brewer) Rob wasn’t around when I

market trends but for me, it’s equal-

arrived so I just made myself a cup at tea

ly foolish to blindly chase them, too,”

and felt right at home,” smiles Inman. “It

explains John Kelly, managing director of

was as if I had never left!”

Kirkstall Brewery. “This business has been built on consistency and stability. Chasing

Light work was made of the beer brewed

the new, the flavour of the month, is a

that day. It’s been a hit with drinkers

very short term attitude and it’s not what

across Kirkstall’s pubs, which comes as

we’re about.”

little surprise.

And as the saying goes, actions speak

“It won’t do well on Untappd. But if you’re

louder than words.

rating it on that then you’re probably missing the point,” says Kelly. “Those

Kelly is joined in Kirkstall’s excellent,

that get a kick out of it probably won’t be

brand-new taproom by production

using the app in the first place; and be

manager Will Inman. The taproom is as

drinking five pints of it, too.”

far removed from an afterthought as

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MAY 2020

possible. Instead, it’s a labour of love and

While one collaboration is enough to

a intricate homage to the classic British

keep most people busy, there was no

BREWERS JOURNAL

let-off for Inman. Days before our visit the brewery was graced with the presence of Doug Odell, co-founder of Colorado’s Odell Brewing Co.

We’ve gone through a lot of pain to get to this point but it’s been worth it,” John Kelly, Kirkstall Brewery

The Fort Collins brewery remains at the high table of independent US breweries and beers such as its 7.0% IPA played a key role in introducing many drinkers, and future brewers, to the bold, aromatic wonders of American-style IPAs. Doug Odell has always had a fondness for the UK and he was on these shores for Cloudwater’s successful Friends & Family & Beer festival, which took place in Manchester during February. Still enamoured with the process of brewing,

Kelly his first employee, the business is

he took in some collaborations including

responsible for opening the hearts and

one at Kirkstall.

minds of many beer fans to the the world

“He’s still very much interested in seeing

of US beer. The company would import,

what different brewers bring to the table,

on an exclusive basis, the produce from

and how different equipment works,” says

breweries such as Sierra Nevada, Odell

Inman.

Brewing Co and Oskar Blues, introducing consumers to heavily-hopped beers and

The duo would brew Appaloosa, a 5.2%

sparking a desire in many to make a go of

keg-only West Coast Pale Ale. However,

brewing such styles themselves.

the beer was not the first time Odell and the Kirkstall team crossed paths. Be-

Holt’s love for such beers would be a

cause before the brewery there was, and

catalyst for opening a brewery that often

remains, Vertical Drinks.

leant on US flavours. Easier said than

Founded brewery owner Steve Holt, with

done in 2011 when demand for such

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27

Left: Kirkstall opened its new taproom earlier this year and in doing so, added another excellent drinking establishment to the Yorkshire map

You should never think you’ve got something perfect, because there’s always another measurement you can be taking,” Will Inman, Kirkstall Brewery

styles was not as high as it is now.

A sandwich year during studies allowed

Vertical Drinks is now part of Kirkstall

Inman to travel to the US, and work in a

Brewery rather than operating as two

bar located in upstate New York.

separate entities, something that has

Fittingly it was here he would sample

made life easier for all involved.

beers from breweries such as Sierra

“We’ve gone through a lot of pain to get

Nevada and Oskar Blues for the first time,

to this point but it’s been worth it,” says

a far cry from the macro lagers he would

Kelly. “Previously we’d be selling Kirkstall

drink at home in the UK.

beers internally to Vertical to supply,

“I found them super bitter at first,” he

which made it challenging to work out

recalls. “But they without doubt inspired

how we were doing as a brewing busi-

me to work with beer.”

ness. It was complex but things are better now.”

Upon returning to the UK Inman would look at opportunities in banking, though

Working with US breweries on such

the impact of the 2008 financial crisis put

a regular basis though has offered up

paid to such endeavours. In addition to

many benefits however, with Kelly and

work experience at the aforementioned

Holt getting a detailed insight into the US

Kelham Island, Inman applied himself to

market.

home brewing in an attempt to recreate

“The UK market is hectic and it’s compet-

the beers he enjoyed overseas.

itive, but we’ve seen this before in what

It was here he developed a passion for

has happened in the States. There’s buy-

creating and refining beers as well as he

outs, there’s casualties and there’s the

possibly could.

impact these moves have on the bottom

“I enjoyed the fault-finding process,

line. You need to know how to act, and

working out where a problem was oc-

when to act,” he explains.”

curring and trying to rectify it,” he says.

Kirkstall’s US connections don’t end

“I am fond of routine and getting things

there. Before entering the world of beer,

right; attention to detail is so important in

production manager Inman studied

brewing.”

business at university. Here he would be

In typical fashion Inman was never com-

introduced to Dave Wickett, founder of

pletely content with those early brews,

Kelham Island Brewery.

despite glowing reviews from those that drank them.

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Wickett sadly passed away in 2012 but

“There was no point thinking ‘I’ve nailed

the brewery he started, and the lectures

this’ because someone says your beer is

he gave at Sheffield’s Universities, would

pretty good,” he recalls. “That still applies

put Inman on his own path in brewing.

to this day. You should never think you’ve

BREWERS JOURNAL

got something perfect, because there’s

for a beer at the Sheffield Tap to find out

always another measurement you can be

that he had already been in contact with

taking.”

Dominic Driscoll, who had given his then

Inman would go on to secure a job at

colleague a glowing report.

Thornbridge, swiftly making his way up the ranks, from cask washer, to running

Three years ago, Inman would join Kirk-

the bottling line, to brewing on the auto-

stall as lead technical brewer to work on

mated plant all in less than six months.

the its shiny new 50HL five-vessel bre-

Here, he would learn a great deal more

whouse, supplied by SSV Limited, and

about quality assurance.

lead the brewing team through the next stage of the company’s growth.

brewersjournal.info

“Lot’s of people see it as a box-ticking

“The brewhouse that we have is very

exercise but it saves a lot of problems

efficient; we’re able to use modern

happening in the first place. Being metic-

techniques on our more traditional core

ulous always pays off and helps you keep

range of cask. We have the capabilities to

on top of issues creeping in,” he stresses.

make a whole range of beer, so we don’t

After four-and-a-half enjoyable years at

need to pigeon hole ourselves into one

Thornbridge, Inman was ready for a new

style of brewing,” he says. “We don’t have

challenge. He would meet John Kelly

to stick to traditional brewing that we

MAY 2020

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29

were known for, but we also don’t have to

coming full circle. From an origin import-

abandon that either.”

ing other breweries’ beers, the company

The team can mash in every three hours

is now looking ahead to increase the

with brewing taking place on average

amount of its own beer it sends to export

six or seven times a week. At the time of

markets.

our visit, Inman expected the brewery to

He says: “Until now we’ve only really sent

output 15,000HL this year.

beer overseas to friends. But we’re now

The brewery’s cask and keg output

ready to look at the bigger export picture.

dovetail each other well. Cask is still king

“One of the happiest days in this business

with a 60/40 split over keg but the per-

was pouring Kirkstall beers, alongside

formance of either dispense takes place

beers from excellent US breweries we

organically. Classics like Kirkstall Pale

imported and saying ‘You know what? We

Ale and Three Swords are mainstays on

stand up against these’.

cask, while newer hazy numbers such as

“We’ve never rushed what we do, or

Jasper perform very well. On keg, session

chased others, but we’re more confident

pale ale Virtuous dominates alongside

in the beers we make than ever before.” u

session IPA Perpetuous.

Kelly is pleased with the brewery’s foray into hazy beers but acknowledges that Inman wasn’t fully convinced in sending them out into the wild until they could guarantee shelf stability.

“We didn’t want to be one of those embarrassments having our beer explode.

If it’s sitting on an ambient shelf somewhere, you need to ensure it’s safe for it to do so,” he says.

And for Inman and the team at Kirkstall, such an outlook represents the business

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BREWERS JOURNAL

Right: Inman’s keen eye for detail has ensured Kirkstall’s output has a strong reputation for consistency, regardless of dispense

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31

THE CIDER CONNECTION IF ONE THING THE LAST FEW MONTHS HAVE SHOWN, IT DOESN’T PAY TO HAVE ALL YOUR EGGS IN ONE BASKET. IF THE MAJORITY OF YOUR SALES COME THROUGH YOUR TAPROOM OR BARS, PUBS AND RESTAURANTS, YOU’RE NOW DOING A MAD SCRAMBLE TO STAY AFLOAT. WHEN THIS PASSES – AND IT WILL – A RETHINK WILL BE IN ORDER TO SEE HOW YOU CAN CREATE A STRONGER BUSINESS. FOR YOU BREWERS, THIS COULD MEAN LOOKING BEYOND BEER. IN TBJ’S CONTINUING PROFILE OF OTHER BEVERAGES THAT COULD COMPLEMENT YOUR BEER PROFILE, CIDER IN ON TAP FOR MAY. KIERAN AYLWARD REPORTS 32

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BREWERS JOURNAL

I

f any drink has suffered from an image problem over the last few years, its cider. For many, the image of a cider drinker is of a grey haired, long bearded chap, high on aroma

and low on teeth, glugging scrumpy from a stoneware flagon as he lies rested against his sow. Cider wasn’t helped at all when in 2005, The Wurzels and British Sea Power combined to produce a song you wanted immediately to forget, “I’m a Cider Drinker.”

When the moon shines on the cow shed And we’re rolling in the hay All the cows are up there grazin’ And the milk is on its way I am a Cider Drinker I drinks it all of the day I am a Cider Drinker

This may present an opportunity for

It soothes all me troubles away

some brewers, because although cidermaking is definitely not the same

However, makers of craft cider and other

discipline as brewing, the two do have

fermented fruit drinks such as – pear

similarities and it could be that cider

cider or perry (not the same thing!) –

made with a brewers mindset could pro-

have long ago said goodbye to these

duce some ferments with a ready market.

stereotypes, and cruel nicknames like

The Cider Report, published by West-

“trampagne” and drinkers in the know are

ons Cider, looks at the UK cider indus-

aware of this. Many of these cider makers

try, sticking primarily to big cider and

are either former beer brewers or are

giving small cider producers little notice.

producing both at their breweries, such

Although the report shows the top five

as Hogs Back with their award-winning

producers losing some market share

cider (see April TBJ).

(combined they still control nearly 75

What is an exciting trend is that the beer

percent of the market), like in the USA,

guys, not necessarily seeped in cider

big cider is losing shares to small craft

tradition, are not afraid to experiment and

producers.

try innovations such as dry hopping.

There is a ferocious debate rolling

What you need to take away from the

amongst the ‘cider intelligentsia’. Well,

report is this: last year the UK’s cider in-

not exactly ferocious, but at least lively

dustry was worth £3.1 billion – an increase

about whether cider is wine or is it beer.

of four percent year on year. Nearly £2

Of course, it’s neither – it’s cider.

billion was spent on cider and perry – a

But the point of the discussion is to

strong increase – and 516 million pints

en who are willing to try cider. Why? The

decide ciders rightful place. Is it in a

were consumed – 10 million more than

reports suggests that women in the 18-34

goblet poured from a wine bottle at a

last year.

age range prefer a drink with sweetness, flavour and taste. You have to suspect

great height and price? Or, in a handled pint glass poured out of an oak barrel at a

Westons Cider Report – available for free

that with most of us having apple juice as

more accessible price?

online – breaks down cider drinkers into

a child, apple cider has a familiar smell

In practice, like beer exists in both the

five categories: fruit cider fanatics, craft

and taste, unlike a hoppy IPA.

premium arena and in the higher volume

repertoire drinkers, cider enthusiasts,

According to the 2019 Mintel Cider Re-

arena, so does cider. And, as the cider

traditional at home cider drinkers, and

port, over half of consumers are willing to

debate rolls on, it pricks the interest of

traditional out of home cider drinkers.

pay extra for a better-quality drink when

conscientious drinkers and the demand

Out of these five groups, a whopping

out of home. These cider drinkers/buy-

for artisan cider seems to have grown

combined figure of 66 percent would

ers say with only a small price difference

where sales of big brand cider have fall-

make up your target drinker. You will find

between premium and standard cider,

en. This has happened here, Europe, the

them to be very similar to your craft beer

it makes sense to trade-up to a better

USA and even Brazil.

drinkers except that there are more wom-

cider.

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33

A

trip to Hawkes Urban

a craft beer fan. However, they had both

Cidery in London is very

watched the excitement and growth in

likely to inspire a curious

the craft beer scene and decided to jump

brewer. Hawkes, which is

in – Pulpt was borne.

now part of Brewdog, was

Pulpt represents a convergence of old

started in 2013 by Simon Wright. It’s the

apple varieties and modern fermentation

only cider maker on the Bermondsey

techniques, and the two see their market

beer mile and occupies four huge railway

as what they call “curious drinkers” – ex-

arches where it produces cider from

isting or new cider drinkers who demand

scratch. From scratch means hauling ap-

better.

ples into London from the farms, milling and pressing the apples on site, ferment-

Their cidery is surrounded by orchards

ing the fresh juice, and then blending and

of traditional Somerset cider apples,

packaging. All in a railway arch.

like Yarlington mill and Dabinett, and naturally, it’s these cider apples that they

This process might sound like a tradi-

use for cidermaking. These fruits don’t

tional cidermaking process, and in most

store well, so they need to press them all

ways, it is, but Hawkes in some ways is

in one go, in October/November when

more like a brewing operation. Hawkes

the fruit is ripe and then store all of the

use dessert apples which are light and

fermenting, or fermented juice until they

acidic, not cider apples which are high

deem it ready for processing. This could

in tannin. Tannic cider is usually aged,

be anywhere from six months to a couple

partly to allow the tannins to soften, but

of years.

Hawkes urban blend is packaged sooner and makes for a fresh and aromatic cider.

Pulpt has been a part of some of the

And, this is where some similarities with

biggest craft beer festivals over the last

brewing exist, instead of filling huge

couple of years including BeaverEx, Craft

tanks once per year, Hawkes press all

Beer Rising and most recently Brew//

year round, perform a closely monitored

LDN. While they accept that they are not

ferment, package and then start again.

going to be the stars of a beer focused event, they have been really excited by

Roberto Basilico, the former head cider-

the overwhelmingly positive reception

maker at Hawkes and a trained winemak-

they get from consumers who take their

er, reveals an intimate understanding of

drinks seriously. Additionally, some

the fermentation process that few other

of the great breweries have looked to

cider makers can boast. Basilico has

include Pulpt as the cider-offer in their

performed the same fermentations, with

taprooms (the minute lockdown is lifted!).

the same apple varieties over and over again, many times per year and he knows

And, there is a new institutional interest in

its quirks. He explains to you that when

the cider industry. Members of the brew-

making a popular Hawkes brand, Soul

ing industry, both large and small, have

Trader, you watch the fermentation move

for many years been supported by the

along, see the gravity drop, and smell

technical training offered by the Institute

the aromas produced by the interactions

for Brewing & Distilling (IBD) and from

between the apple and the wine yeast.

November, professional cidermakers will

But, if you wait just a few hours too long

be supported too.

to intervene, all that aroma disappears into the ether.

There are no Diploma or Master qualifications yet, but the General Certificate in

Hawkes aren’t the only UK cider makers

Cider Making is available, and it’s a very

with a toe in the craft beer scene, further

good start. The General certificate covers

west – near Bristol – in the heartland of

the definition of cider in major markets

traditional cider is Pulpt. In 2017, Al Collar

then review the raw materials, apple mill-

and Jim Wakefield were plotting their

ing, fermentation, maturation, clarifica-

escape from the corporate machine.

tion, blending, quality, hygiene and finally

Collar had a passion for great cider and

overarching topics like maintenance and

had made it as a hobby; Jim was more of

safety.

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MAY 2020

If you wait just a few hours too long to intervene, all that aroma disappears into the ether.”

Roberto Basilico BREWERS JOURNAL

Above: Cider fermenters at Brothers Cider

The course is headed up by Adrian

sourced if you know the right person.

James who is a drinks industry veteran

Neil Macdonald is just such a person, and

of 26 years. James started his career in

to meet him you need to take a trip to his

Burton-on-Trent for what is now Molson

farm at Hornblotton, near Shepton Mallet

Coors where he completed both the Di-

in Somerset. Neil is a long serving stal-

ploma and Master brewer qualifications.

wart of the artisan cider industry. In 2004

He then worked as a Quality Manager

he co-founded Orchard Pig, one of the

in cider making for Heineken in Here-

first of the UK “craft” cider makers, and

fordshire, he sat on the NACM (national

ran this cider business for 14 years until its

association of cider makers) technical

eventual sale to C&C in 2016.

committee and has worked globally in education and pro-ject management –

Macdonald is still very much in the cider

largely in cidermaking. This move by the

world, but his appetite for brand building

IBD is a show of confidence in the Global

has gone and instead he now offers a

cider industry.

vertically integrated solution for cider-

I

making. At the beginning, this includes

t might seem that planting apple

selling cider apples, single variety apple

trees, a slow to yield crop, on ex-

juice and finished bulk cider – and at the

pensive agricultural land would be a

end includes a service blending, bottling,

risky diversification for a brewer. And

kegging, and bag-in-box packaging at a

it would, but – as luck might have

business he co-owns called Somerset

it – there is another way. Just like nobody

Cider Solutions.

would assume that a brewer has fields of

brewersjournal.info

barley ripening in the sun and a combine

He grows 280 acres of his own trees and

harvester parked idle waiting for harvest,

manages over 300 acres of traditional

why should a cider maker necessarily be

orchards in Somerset, which include over

expected to manage an orchard. Apples,

600 varieties, harvesting annually over

like barley, are a commodity and easily

2,000 tonnes of apples and presses over

MAY 2020

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35

Left: Apples at Hawkes Urban Cidery, which was founded in London in 2013

half of this himself. Around 30 percent of

will probably be £90 per tonne which,

cider comes from 100 percent pressed

the juice he presses is sold as juice, and

depressingly for the growers, is less than

cider apples and is used by craft cider

70 percent is fermented to be sold as

the cost of production. Most apples will

producers as a reservoir in case they run

finished cider for blending.

press at 65-70 percent efficiency, mean-

out during the year. It is stored in 1,000

ing that you can expect 650-700 litres of

litre IBCs and each IBC can be tasted

cider per tonne.

individually to find the perfect ferment.

About his role in the industry, Macdonald says: “It’s such a pleasant industry

C

to be involved in, full of characters and

Macdonald also sells apple juice. For this

entrepreneurs from all walks of life. The

he uses his belt press, a relic of the Or-

sadness is that the margins can be slim

chard Pig days, which is rated to 3 tonnes

until you reach a reasonable volume, so

per hour. Two holding tanks allow the

we try to offer some key turn opportuni-

milled apples to sit for one to two hours.

ties for those wanting to start up or scale

These holding tanks improve pressing

up. Always happy to offer help and advice

efficiency two-fold, firstly the press is

and fill in the gaps of the process from

never waiting for milled apples and sec-

ed. Cider can be fermented in a brewery

bud to bottle.”

ondly, the apples give up their juice more

fermentor, if the brewer can bring himself

readily after an enzymatic stand.

to do so, and if not single-skinned wine

As you might expect, the price of apples

idermaking, ignoring the pressing equipment, is not usually as capital intensive as beer brewing. Ripe apples mostly contain

glucose, fructose and sucrose and little or no starch, so a brewhouse is not need-

fermenters are usually used, which are

varies from year to year and between

He charges 18ppl for contact pressing

far cheaper than the insulated and jacket

varieties, but due to an oversupply, the

and 38ppl for apple juice. For ferment-

pressure tanks usually seen in breweries.

price of apples is currently pretty low.

ed cider Macdonald charges £45ppl for

Last year Macdonald charged £120 per

naturally fermented 6% ABV or 52ppl for

Processing cider – getting it into a

tonne for cider apples, and this year it

an 8 % ABV plus the duty. The finished

bottle, keg or bag-box – can start to get

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BREWERS JOURNAL

more expensive and complicated than fermentation. Beer ferments to a terminal gravity leaving some residual sugar, at this gravity the beer is both palatable and (relatively) stable, the beer can be left to carbonate in a unitank and run into kegs ready for the pub.

Cider generally will carry on fermenting until all of the sugar has been exhausted and leaving a very dry product. In this state it appeals to a very niche drinker, and so is common to blend the finished cider with sugar, apple juice or fruit juice to bring the sweetness back into balance.

Adding back these simple sugars leaves a pretty unstable product, in that its very likely to referment, and so needs special treatment through sterile filtration or flash pasteurisation to gain a shelf life of more than a couple of days.

Pulpt make use of Somerset Cider

brewersjournal.info

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37

Solutions kegging and bottling service,

used it as wages for the farm workers. It’s

whereas Hawkes cider invested in a

now the reason why so many very small

crossflow filter from Vitikit in Exeter and

artisan cider producers can survive in the

kegging equipment to keep all produc-

UK.

tion in the archway.

A

There is a caveat, Notice 162 – HMRCs

small group of cider

excise notice on cider – which has a

makers attempt to arrest

strict definition on what cider actually is.

the fermentation early

Fermented apple juice with the addition

which, if successful, leaves

of any unapproved ingredi-ents – and

a cider lower in alcohol

the approved list is short – will no longer

and higher in natural sweetness. The

be cider in the eyes of HMRC, it will be a

technique, practiced by producers like

made-wine.

Ridge & Furrow and Find & Foster – both

Made-wine has for a long while been

from Devon – involves using apples from

the source of an unquenchable irritation

old and nutrient-depleted orchards, or a

for the ultra-orthodox cider community,

process of frequent rankings to keep the

and in their defence, the cider market

yeast count very low, or a combination of

has become overwhelmed by big brand

the two.

fruit ciders high in syrup and low in apple

Hopped cider is a young idea in the United Kingdom.”

Tom Dunn

content.

The idea is that apples from abandoned

But, there is also considerable innovation

orchards will have the normal levels of

in co-fermenting cider with other fruits

sugar but low levels of nitrogen. This low

and spices. An example is Beard & Sabre,

nutrient level will give a sluggish and

from Cirencester, who began to special-

incomplete fermentation. It is possible to

ise in blending hops into cider. Cofounder

plot the gravity during fermentation and,

Tom Dunn has a lot to say on the made-

after a few years, learn when it’s safe to

wine question.

bottle – usually just before fermentation has finished to give some sparkle.

T

“We began making cider in 2015 in Cirencester, Gloucestershire – with an

here is another reason why

ultra-traditionalist methodology, only

a brewer might take an

fresh pressed apple varieties, blended in

interest in a cider foray. It

different ratios to create different brands.

Below: Cider at Hawkes, based in Bermondsey, London

concerns a subject as far removed from the creativ-

ity –hopefully – and romance of craft brewing that it’s possible to get, but it’s a subject never truly off the mind of a brewer – alcohol duty.

There is no small brewers relief equivalent in the cider world, though there is a growing movement to argue for it, but there is an exemption from registration that applies to produc-ers making, or planning to make less than 7000 litres per year.

This “exemption from registration” means that so long as you keep adequate records you can make and sell up to 7,000 litres of cider per year without needing to complete a duty re-turn and without having to pay any duty. The exemption came into force in 1976, when cider became liable for alcohol duty for the first time since 1923, and was designed to protect the farm producers that still made cider and

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BREWERS JOURNAL

Right: Cider belt press and mill technology

We felt pressured by CAMRA and tradi-

in the States, mainly as they are not hin-

“Our ciders are all crafted from a 6% ABV

tional cider communities, who are often

dered as we are by hopped cider being

naturally fermented base (wild yeast),

very vocally opinionated, to only create

classified as a made-wine equivalent. Our

with apple juice added to sweeten and

these ciders. We hit a wall with sales,

main brand is Dolores, a Cascade dry-

to meet the 4% ABV duty limit. We have

while the old folks in straw hats advocat-

hopped (hops added in after the blend)

experimented with whole hops, hop

ed for production of conservative ciders –

medium, 4% ABV. It is by far the highest

pellets, hop essences, different addi-

despite this causing their own market to

quality cider we have made to date, but

tion ratios and infusion times, different

become saturated with ciders consumers

sales in our standard medium are higher

pasteurisation temperatures, carbonation

didn’t really enjoy.”

– purely, in our opinion, due to price, as

levels and how these all interact with

we pass the duty savings on to the trade,”

cider blended with hops.

says Dunn,

“We are in it for the long run and have

Between 2016-18, Dunn began to experiment with fruit ciders, or made-wines. His

had to accept that, unless the govern-

orderbook was filling exponentially, but

“We pride ourselves on leading the way

ment would like to support the craft

making these ciders didn’t fit in with his

in UK hopped cider innovation and are at

drinks industry by creating more detailed

ethos and mission, so he spent time re-

present the only cidermaker to specialize

duty bands, we will always have to deal

searching how to craft unique ciders from

in producing hopped cider. There are a

with made-wine duty.”

exclusively apples. Then, in late 2018 Tom

few quality cidermakers in the country

Madwine duty was introduced in the

had a revelation when he began to blend

who run a hopped line, but our focus is

1990s as a tactic to kerb the rise of cheap

hops into his cider.

based entirely on creating the best and

alcopops and the harm they were doing

most innovative hopped ciders the UK

in some communities, and so the tax is

craft cider community has to offer.

high!

“Hopped cider is a young idea in the United Kingdom, but it is incredibly popular

brewersjournal.info

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39

Cider, wine and made wine-duty is not

breweries as well as cidermakers – or

an interesting product to introduce in

directly proportional to the alcohol level

they use brew-ing equipment to make

Brazil, although we have bad memories

– like beer is – it’s banded so all drinks

their cider.

of low-quality ciders made as cheap substitutes for sparkling wines.”

within the band pay the same duty. With cider, the lower band runs from 1.2% to

An area that few of us would associate

The south of Brazil is a big apple pro-

6.8% ABV, with all cider in this range pay-

with cider is Brazil, which has a growing

ducer – it produced 105 million tonnes in

ing £0.4038 per litre in duty. With made-

cider indus-try. An example is Morada Cia

2018 – and André uses the Fuji and Gala

wine duty, the bands are tighter so, for

Etílicas, a gypsy brewer from the state

apples, which are the most common

example, a hopped cider at 4% ABV will

of Parana in southern Brazil, and since

commercially grown vari-eties, for his

be lia-ble for £0.9168 per litre in duty, at

2016 also a gypsy cider maker. [A gypsy

cidermaking.

5% it will be £1.2608 and at 6% ABV it will

brewer has no facility of his or her own.

be £2.9757. Ouch!

O

Instead, the brewer travels to a function-

As Moranda Cia Etílica is a gypsy project,

utside of the UK – which

ing brewing facility and pays for use of

they don’t have our own brewery or ci-

most see as the spiritual

the space to produce their own beer or

dery. The brewing and cidermaking take

home of cider and the

cider.]

place separately, actually nearly 600km

consumer of 37.5 percent

Speaking to its founder and head brewer

apart, with the cider produced at a winery

of global volume – pock-

André Junqueira reveals the motivations

in the mountains near the town of Caxias

behind his cider project.

do Sul, in the state of Santa Catarina.

ets of artisan cidermaking have been

Does Andre use his brewing experience

emerging. These New World producers began mostly in established apple grow-

“I started by making beer and spirits,

to make better cider?

ing regions, although they now also exist

then I studied ciders and mead. I like

“Not in terms of technique, but in terms

in a format where they are closer to the

cider because it is very versatile and has

of building flavours. I believe from my

drinker than to the orchard.

high drinkability. We launched our line

brewing expe-rience I have all the ideas

Many of these cidermakers are either

of ciders in 2016. I always thought it was

I need to build the new products. For the

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Left: Al Collar of Pulpt, “A convergence of old apple varieties and modern fermentation techniques”

also allowed us to play with making craft fruit ciders as well as our traditional cider” Psydra makes a hopped cider, and you have to wonder if this is a good tactic to present ci-der to a beer audience. Philip sheds some light on this.

“We make one traditional cider and one hopped cider commercially at the moment, we also make small batch special editions at our lab which we sell directly to our customers at our monthly Psydra Garden event which combines food, drink and live music in an atmospheric garden in the historic neighbourhood of Santa Teresa.

“We see the hopped cider as a ‘gateway drug’ into cider, something that the consumers of the very well developed craft beer market can relate to. Typically, the 20 or so tap craft beer bars go for barrels of our hopped cider, while restaurants and bars opt for bottles of our classic cider. Many beer drinkers have tried cider in Europe before so they have a vague idea of what to expect but they are still pleasantly surprised.”

Psydra, like Morada, use dessert apples, and though they might look at using tannic cider apples in future, they find that dessert apples actually make a cider

launch of the first line of artisanal ciders

that is particularly well adapted to the hot

in the country, I believed that the use

weather. They use 100 percent juice in

of local ingredients, like pineapple, and

their cider, meaning no dilution, concen-

the local Amburana wooden barrels,

trates or flavourings and they leave it

would help people better understand the

unfiltered. The cidermaking happens at a

product.”

local brewery.

About this relationship, and any conflict,

Around 1500 km up the Atlantic coast in

Philip says: “We obviously don’t use any

Rio De Janeiro is Psydra, a cider company

of the brewhouse equipment, but we

co-owned by Mark Philip. Psydra is a long

use the same fermentation tanks and the

way from any apple orchard, being based

bottling and canning equipment used for

in the trendy Santa Teresea district of Rio.

beer production without any problems

But, it is surrounded by a potentially large

at all.

cider market.

Philip says: “I am originally from Lon-

“Breweries in Brazil tend to have top of

don, so have the habit of drinking cider

the line equipment and processes, so it

– especially in the summer – but have been living in Rio de Janeiro for 10 years.

I got talking to my business partner Icaro, who had also got a taste for cider while abroad, and we came to the conclusion that it was the perfect drink for the yearround hot weather of Rio de Janeiro. The infinite types of fruits growing in Brazil

brewersjournal.info

We see the hopped cider as a ‘gateway drug’ into cider,” Mark Philip

has all gone incredibly smoothly up until now. We haven’t had any problems at all.

The breweries have absolutely no experience in making cider, so we have to take quite a hands-on role making the cider and explaining the processes but apart from that we have managed perfectly using the brewing infrastructure.”

MAY 2020

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41

Right: Somerset Cider Solutions.

Bespoke cider production, white label and contract packing services

I

n the States, Boston Beer’s Angry

make of craft cider? Morgan explains.

Owner Nat West calls himself a die-hard craft-beer revolutionary and has exper-

Orchard – the largest cider producer in the US – has been controlling

“Beer drinkers enjoy our cider. The big-

imented with beer yeasts, wild yeasts,

the market for the past five years,

gest reason why people love our cider is

Belgian ale spices, hops, and local fruits

and sells in the UK at Tesco’s.

because it isn’t too sweet. All of our styles

and flowers (including watermelon and

Last year Angry, which showed a slight

are on the drier end of the spectrum. Ci-

elderflower) to craft his off-the-wall

decline along with Anheuser-Busch

der drinkers love that, and beer drinkers

ciders.

and Miller Coors’ ciders, still made $226

love it too! It is easy to get them interest-

million. The next cider down, Bold Rock,

ed in it, all it takes is convinc-ing them to

Some cider makers are experimenting

made $27 million.

try it. Some beer drinkers here in the USA

with Brettanomyces and Lactobacillus.

“Those brands are hurting,” US Associa-

have a preconceived notion of what cider

Four years ago Portland’s Swift Cider

tion of Cider Makers executive director

is like, without the knowledge that there

released a single-varietal, 100% Brett

Michelle McGrath told BevNet Magazine.

are many different types, and usually it’s

fermented cider as a limited release,

“The success of the Angry Orchard Rosé

the assumption that it’s incredibly sugary.

which is what it’s remained and is not a

had them grow-ing temporarily, but the

Once they know it isn’t, they’re more

core cider.

rosé trend has passed on from Angry

likely to give it a go, and they are always

Orchard to regional brands.”

pleasantly surprised with our cider.”

Nevertheless, McGrath said local and

Companies such as Virtue Cider and

regional brands have grown considerably

Seattle Cider Co. stemmed from craft

over the past seven years, increasing

breweries, Goose Island Beer Compa-

their volume share from eight percent

ny and Two Beers Brewing Company,

in 2012 to 34 percent last year, reported

respectively, while other companies

S

BevNet.

such as Colorado Cider Company were

be worthwhile distraction for a micro-

Industry insiders say that Angry Orchard’s

launched by former brewers.

brewery.

o there is a little more to fermenting apple juice

success is down to it making very con-

than meets the eye, but as long as you know your excise notices and you can

manage the practical conflicts between cidermaking and brewing, doing so could

The fermentation equipment is fairly

sistent, very drinkable ciders that range

Collaborations between local breweries

common for both industries and pack-

from sweet to dry. Because it would be

and cider producers are becoming quite

aging is easily out-sourced if needs be.

impossible for it to source from US farms

common, with cross-over in techniques

Some of the customers are the same, so

all the apples Angry requires, it uses

taking place, such as dry-hopping cider.

a brewer may find that their existing cus-

concentrate from Europe.

Colorado Cider Company’s Grasshop-Ah

tomers have an appetite for cider – this is

US small craft cider makers are able to

(6.5% ABV) is made with lemongrass

very likely true away from the tradi-tional

source local apples and turn this to their

and dry-hopped after filtration. It was

cider making areas, where competition

marketing advantage.

one of the first commercially available

is lower.

dry-hopped ciders and is still one of the

There is opportunity to hybridise, and

Right Bee Cider from Chicago, run by

cidery’s best-selling products.

co-ferment barley and apple and there is

Katie Morgan and Charles Davis, are just

The flagship cider at Reverend Nat’s

opportunity to innovate in what has been

such a pro-ducer, they buy fresh juice

Hard Cider (Portland, Oregon), Hallelujah

quite a stiff industry. It must be true that,

from Michigan. and use a blend of apples

Hopricot (6.7% ABV), is steeped with co-

good or bad, a brewing mindset can add

for consistency all year round. The exact

riander, bitter-orange peel, and paradise

something to the cidermaking process.

blend depends on the brand, their Semi-

grains, fermented with a Belgian saison

So is the opposite also true? Can a jour-

Dry and Dry are only apple based, but

ale yeast, and finished with pure apricot

ney into the world of cidermaking bring

our other offerings include various other

juice and Oregon-grown Cas-cade and

something new the brewing process?

fruit/spice/herb additions.

Amarillo hops.

It looks likely we won’t have to wait too

And what does the US craft beer scene

42

|

MAY 2020

long to find out. u

BREWERS JOURNAL

brewersjournal.info

MAY 2020

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43

THE IMPACT OF FILTRATION ON HOP INTENSITY CHALLENGING ASSUMPTIONS IS THE ASSUMPTION THAT STERILE FILTRATION STRIPS BEER OF ITS HOP AROMA WELL FOUNDED? OR IS THIS PERCEPTION NEEDLESSLY HOLDING SOME BREWERIES BACK IN ADOPTING MORE EFFICIENT NEW TECHNOLOGY? PARKER ANALYSES THE ISSUE.

W

ith the rise in

or sedimentation, a sour or rancid taste

popularity of craft

and over-carbonation. The main spoilage

beers – often

culprits are:

noted for their

u Lactic acid bacteria (Pediococcus and

strong, hoppy

Lactobacillus)

aromas – the reorientation of the beer

u Wild yeast (Brettanomyces)

market around premium products and

u Brewing yeast (Saccharomyces)

distinctive brands has continued apace.

Smaller, independent breweries have

If beer is to last more than a few days

risen to prominence, with their products

once packaged, then care must be taken

often finding their way onto supermarket

to either completely eliminate or control

shelves or bar cellars thousands of miles

these spoilage organisms using microbial

from where they were originally brewed.

control.

Larger breweries, in an effort to claw back market share and reverse the trend

More breweries are turning to cold

of declining beer sales, have remodelled

stabilisation (sterile filtration) as a means

their brands to appeal to modern tastes

of ensuring the microbial stabilisation of

and in many cases, they have acquired

beer.

popular craft breweries.

The sterile filtration process takes place

REFERENCES

The battle to please the more

in a hygienic and sealed environment,

sophisticated palate of today’s beer

which uses polyethersulphone (PES)

drinker is raging. The emphasis is firmly

membrane filter cartridges to remove

on taste.

spoilage organisms without affecting flavour and characteristics of beer.

1.Julio Romero Johnson, Brewlab, 2019 Impact evaluation on hop intensity from

Although beer is acidic, alcoholic,

In a landscape where many breweries

filtration and pasteurisation.

anaerobic and contains hop compounds

are exporting their beers to far flung

2. Parker Bioscience Filtration, May 2018.

that act as preservatives, there are some

markets, a long shelf life is essential.

The Sterile Filtration of Beer - Keeping

microorganisms that can survive through

Sterile filtration increases the shelf life

up with Consumer Trends retrieved

this and thrive on beer’s nutritionally rich

of a product. In addition, the filters used

from http://blog.parker.com/the-sterile-

properties.

in sterile filtration minimise adsorption

filtration-of-beer-keeping-up-with-

These microorganisms can cause

of desirable components and help to

consumer-trends

spoilage of beer in the form of a haze

protect beer head retention.

brewersjournal.info

MAY 2020

|

45

D

espite the advantages of sterile

their perception.

tests assume the means are the same

filtration, there is sometimes

Some 69% of the tasters were male and

and generate an F statistic used to

a reluctance among brewers

31% female. 53% of the tasters stated that

accept or reject this assumption. If F is

to embrace this process due to a

ale was their preferred drink, rising to 65%

less than Fcrit then there is no significant

perception that hop aroma can be

if those who marked lager, ale and cider

difference between the samples.

stripped from a finished product if this

as their preferred drinks.

The p value should be considered, if it

method is used.

The tasters who participated in the

is high (greater than 0.05), the treatment

Clearly, with ‘hoppy’ beers now

test represented a wide spread of age

effect is indistinguishable from random

extremely popular among consumers,

groups, with the highest percentage of

variation.

it is not surprising that brewers could

tasters (30%) in the 25-34 age range.

be concerned about this, especially in the burgeoning craft beer market. This evidence for this, however, is anecdotal.

Below: Summary of results from hop

R

aroma strength tests.

esults were analysed using a single factor anova. (analysis of variance), which in its simplest

Fig 1: The analysis did not show significant difference between samples.

In order to independently assess

form is a test to determine whether

the impact of sterile filtration on hop

population means are different. Anova

aromas and taste, Brewlab, the UK’s leading provider of brewery training and analysis, was commissioned to find out if consumers could perceive

HOP AROMA STRENGTH TEST - SUMMARY Groups

Count

Sum

Average

Variance

any differences between filtered and

Column 1

74

299

4.0405

4.9161

unfiltered and unpasteurised beer. The

Column 2

74

317

4.2838

4.5622

study was carried out through a blind

Column 3

74

320

4.3243

5.1536

taste test.

S

testing. The beer, once fermented and

ome 300l of a 4% pale and highly hopped beer with 60 EBUs was

HOP AROMA STRENGTH TEST - ANOVA SS

df

MS

F

P-value

F crit

Between groups

3.4865

2

1.7432

0.36

0.6999

3.0371

conditioned, was then bottled through

Within groups

1068.1351

219

4.8773

11.05

a Moravec semiautomatic bottling and

Total

1071.6216

221

supplied by Darwin Brewery for

Source of variation

6.45

carbonating machine.

Unfiltered and unpasteurised beer was 30

compared against beer filtered with a 5 micron filter and beer filtered with a 5 micron filter and then a Parker Bevpor BR

25

0.45 micron filter.

The blind tasting was carried out in three premises and in the sensory suite at Newcastle University.

A total of 74 testers tried four different samples, presented in black plastic cups and to avoid bias towards the first samples – especially in bitterness – the

FREQUENCY

different public houses, at Brewlab’s

20

15

10

samples were presented in four different random orders.

5

The participants were asked to mark the samples 1 to 10 for: u Level of hop aroma strength

0

u Hop taste

2

u Bitterness

AROMA RANKING - 10 HIGHEST

It was stated that 1 was to be marked

UNFILTERED

4

6

5 MICRON

8

10

0.45 MICRON

as lower on the scale for these characteristics and 10 on the high end of

46

|

MAY 2020

Figure 1, Hop aroma strength testing results

BREWERS JOURNAL

S

HOP TASTE PERCEPTION TEST - SUMMARY

imilar analysis was carried out on the hop taste perception data.

Groups

Right: Summary of results from

Hop Taste Perception Test.

As with the aroma data, no significant difference was determined with respect

Count

Sum

Average

Variance

Column 1

74

375

5.0676

4.9680

Column 2

74

419

5.6622

5.2679

Column 3

74

417

5.6351

4.4541

to taste between the sample treatments.

B

the other analysis, no difference in

elow right: Summary of results

HOP TASTE PERCEPTION TEST - ANOVA

from Bitterness Perception test.

Source of variation

SS

df

MS

F

P-value

F crit

Between groups

16.685

2

8.3423

1.70

0.1844

3.0371

bitterness was determined between the

Within groups

1072.365

219

4.8966

treatments.

Total

1089.050

221

In keeping with the trends from

BITTERNESS PERCEPTION TEST - SUMMARY Groups

Count

Sum

Average

Variance

Column 1

74

425

5.7432

4.7140

Column 2

74

475

6.4189

4.6029

Column 3

74

441.5

5.9662

5.9749

BITTERNESS PERCEPTION TEST - ANOVA SS

df

MS

F

P-value

F crit

Between groups

17.5428

2

8.7714

1.72

0.1813

3.0371

Within groups

1116.3007

219

5.0973

Total

1133.8435

221

25

30

20

25

FREQUENCY

FREQUENCY

Source of variation

15

10

20

15

10 5 5

0 2

4

6

8

10

TASTE RANKING - 10 HIGHEST UNFILTERED

5 MICRON

Figure 2, Hop taste strength testing results

brewersjournal.info

0.45 MICRON

0 2

4

6

8

10

BITTERNESS RANKING - 10 HIGHEST UNFILTERED

5 MICRON

0.45 MICRON

Figure 3, Bitterness perception results

MAY 2020

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47

50

T

asters were also asked to select their preference for each drink based on the options shown right.

40

The results did not indicate a conclusive If the dislike options are grouped into two (dislike very much and dislike slightly) and the like options are grouped into two (like very much and like slightly), all of the samples show a higher percentage of the “slightly” options, and lower on the “very

FREQUENCY

preference of one sample over another.

30

20

much” options.

A review of the “like very much” data, in isolation, indicated greatest preference

10

for 0.45-micron filtered beer.

In addition to the 74 tasters, four tasters trained by Brewlab also blind tasted the samples. Once the Anova analysis had been completed on the data, no clear

0

Strongly dislike

Slightly dislike

Indifferent

Strongly like

Slightly like

PREFERENCE RANKING

difference was found regarding the hop intensity and bitterness between the samples.

UNFILTERED

5 MICRON

0.45 MICRON

The results of this study, from Parker Bioscience Filtration, indicate that using

Figure 4, Preference test results

sterile filtration to ensure microbial stability of beer does not affect its

advantage of the benefits of sterile

hop intensity. Based on this study, we

filtration without the fear of their products

can conclude that breweries can take

being stripped of their hop aromas. u

CLASSIFIED

BOTTLING & CANNING

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MAY 2020

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