The Brewers Journal September 2019, iss 7 vol 5

Page 1

The magazine for the professional brewing industry

Brewers J o u r n a l

September 2019 | Volume 5, issue 7 ISSN 2059-6650

manchester union

on a mission to brew the finest lager in manchester

39 | marble brewery: onwards and upwards

49 | palestine & Israel: a tale of two breweries

63 | co-fermentation: potential in brewing


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le ad e r

T

time flies

ime flies, doesn’t it? It’s hard to believe it’s September already. I could roll out all manner of clichés, but 2019 genuinely seems to be flying by. September also means that The Brewers Journal is officially four years old (young?). They often say that if you can make a passion your profession then work rarely feels like work at all. While I wouldn’t go that far, it’s probably the same rationale many would-be brewers adopted when making those early steps, full of trepidation and enthusiasm of equal measure, into professional brewing. And it’s been a real privilege to get to know so many of these incredibly talented figures that make up the brewing industry. Both in the UK and further afield. Being able to visit fantastic breweries, and speak to the people behind them, for the magazine is a joy. As is doing the interviews for the Brewers Journal podcast we run. Then there’s the Brewers Lectures that take place throughout the year. And once again in 2019 we can’t wait to host the Brewers Congress in London this November. If you told me four years back that I’d be involved in putting on an event that Melissa Cole and John Keeling would help host, I’d have told you a beer brewed with frozen pizza and US dollars was more of a probability... Last month we finalised the group of super-talented individuals taking part in talks and panel discussions, and I’m thrilled with the feedback we’ve received. In case you missed it, we have Yvan de Baets cofounder of Brasserie de la Senne, Omnipollo brewer and quality manager Carlos de la Barra, Brooklyn Brewery’s head of education programme in Europe Gabe Barry and Alice Batham, technical brewer at Brewster’s Brewing. We also have Deya founder Theo Freyne, Kamilla Hannibal, the marketing manager at Yeastie Boys, Donzoko brewing founder Reece Hugill and Redwell

brewersjournal.info

editor's choice How Marble Brewery, in its new home in Salford, is taking the next step in its brewing journey - page 39

head brewer Belinda Jennings. But wait, theres more! Miles Jenner, head brewer and joint MD of Harvey’s, Anders Kissmeyer, HeriotWatt’s Dr Dawn Maskell, Derek Prentice from Wimbledon Brewery and Verdant co-founder Adam Robertson. Also taking part is Harbour’s James Rylance, St Austell brewing director Roger Ryman, Nigel Sadler from Learn2Brew, Jolly Good Beer’s Yvan Seth, Dave Stone from Wylam Brewery and Christian Townsley, co-founder of North Brewing Co. And if that’s not enough, how about Burning Sky’s Mark Tranter, Flo Vialan head brewer at Purity Brewing Co, Rod White from University of Nottingham and Wild Card Brewery’s head brewer Jaega Wise. We can’t wait for this year’s event, which takes place at The Institution of Civil Engineers in London on November 28th. Join us? Tim Sheahan Editor

September 2019

3


co ntac t s

Brewery Vessels

contacts

Quality Vessels for Quality Beer

Tim Sheahan Editor tim@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 592

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Velo Mitrovich Deputy editor velo@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 591 Josh Henderson Sales executive josh@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 594 Jon Young Publisher jon@rebymedia.com Reby Media 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Herts, HP1 1PA, UK

SUBscriptions The Brewers Journal is a published 10 times a year and mailed every February, March, April, May, June, July, September, October, November and December. Subscriptions can be purchased for 10 issues. Prices for single issue subscriptions or back issues can be obtained by emailing: subscribe@rebymedia.com

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September 2019

The content of The Brewers Journal is subject to copyright. However, if you would like to obtain copies of an article for marketing purposes high-quality reprints can be supplied to your specification. Please contact the advertising team for full details of this service. The Brewers Journal is printed at Stephens & George Print Group, Merthyr Tydfil, UK.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or any information storage or retrieval system, without the express prior written consent of the publisher. The Brewers Journal ISSN 2059-6650 is published bimonthly by Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA. Subscription records are maintained at Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA. The Brewers Journal accepts no responsibility for the accuracy of statements or opinion given within the Journal that is not the expressly designated opinion of the Journal or its publishers. Those opinions expressed in areas other than editorial comment may not be taken as being the opinion of the Journal or its staff, and the aforementioned accept no responsibility or liability for actions that arise therefrom.

Brewers Journal


Co nte nt s

contents 63

39

49

69

19

Cover story 34 - To become the number one lager in Manchester would be a fantastic achievement and that’s exactly the goal of the team behind Manchester Union Brewery.

trending | Rosé beer 19 - Velo Mitrovich takes a look at the burgeoning US Rosé beer market

COMMENT 22 - Preparing your brewery for a big contract 24 - Reducing your environmental impact 26 - Does the UK face a brewing skills gap? 28 - The importance of setting your boundaries

focus | pos 46 - The boon, effective impactful Point of Sale materials can have on your brewery

crossing continents | israel and palestine 49 - How the stories of Shapiro and Taybeh are truly tales of two different breweries

focus | quality stabilisation Dear John 22 - John Keeling on relationships old and new

56 - Advice on how to make beer great again and again, and also to keep it that way

brewers lectures | bristol

Science | co-fermentation

32 - The Watershed, 10th October, 2019

63 - The potential and challenges presented by blending and co-fermentation

meet the brewer | marble 39 - How Jan Rogers and Joe Ince are driving Marble's development in its new home

brewersjournal.info

sector | water 69 - New regs and the impact on your brewery

September 2019

5


STEINECKER

Brewing technology #GermanBlingBling #Steinecker

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business

n e ws

Greene King to be sold for £2.7bn

G

reene King is to be sold to Hong Kong’s CKA Group in a deal worth £2.7bn.

The Suffolk-based brewer and pub operator

recommended a takeover bid to its shareholders by CK Noble UK Ltd, a subsidiary of CK Asset Holdings Ltd. The deal, which values the company’s beer and pub business at £2.7bn, will mean Greene King will follow Fuller’s, which sold its brewing business to Asahi. If the deal goes through, Greene King will become the latest UK business to join the CKA group, which also owns Superdrug and Three. Philip Yea, chairman of Greene King, commented: “The Greene King board is confident in the long-term prospects of the business, but believes this offer represents a good opportunity for share-holders to realise value for their investment at an attractive premium,

serving millions of customers across the country every

while also ensuring the future success of Greene King

week.

for employees, partners, customers and suppliers. We

“CKA is an experienced UK investor and shares many

are therefore unanimously recommending it to our

of Greene King’s business philosophies. They understand

shareholders.”

the strengths of our business and we welcome their

Nick Mackenzie, CEO added: “Greene King has a

commitment to working with the existing management

well-invested estate in prime locations, leading brands, a

team, evolving the strategy and investing in the business

rich history, and a talented team of circa 38,000 people,

to ensure its continued long term growth.”

Purity Brewing partners with Aston Villa

W

and push the boundaries of what is expected in a stadium environment, following the success at the Ricoh Arena, Purity was invited to join the Pride and family of suppliers and partners.

arwickshire-based Purity Brewing has teamed up

“We have seen how much value local craft beer has

with Premier League club Aston Villa to become

added to the supporter experience with the likes of what

its official ale supplier. Paul Halsey, Purity Brewing Company’s CEO and Co-

we have achieved at the Ricoh Arena,” said Halsey. “It is a truly exciting time for Purity Brewing Co. and

Founder, and a huge Aston Villa fan, said: “As a lifelong

Aston Villa as we see this ambitious and progressive

Villa fan, this is one of the pinnacles of my career,” said

partnership as just the start of a brand new chapter for

Halsey. “I truly never thought that when we started Purity

both. I can’t wait to enjoy a pint of Purity Pale Ale pre

in 2005 we’d be in a position to join forces with the team I

match ahead of our first home match back in the English

support.

Premier League against AFC Bournemouth – UTV!”

“This partnership between Purity and Aston Villa is

Nicola Ibbetson, AVFC chief commercial officer

all about creating the perfect match day experience for

said on this agreement, “I’m delighted that Aston Villa

supporters and reflects our belief in a more discerning

have partnered with a local company, further outlining

beer drinking public.”

the club’s mission to forge deeper connections with

Since 2005, Purity have become one of the market leaders in the Midlands for craft ales and in the last few

businesses and communities close to the football club. “Purity Brewing will provide an important service

years has seen the brewer branch into stadia and elite

at Villa Park, one which we believe will enhance our

level sport with similar partnerships with Wasps Rugby &

supporters’ matchday experience.”

Ricoh Arena, as well as Coventry Rugby. However this is the sustainable focused brewer’s first

Purity Brewing will be undertaking a number of fan engagement campaigns throughout the season to further

step into football. Following feedback from the Aston Villa

enhance supporters’ visits to Villa Park and create a true

faithful and the desire of the club to do things differently

pure quality premier match day experience.

brewersjournal.info

September 2019

7


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business

Sambrook’s Brewery to relocate

L

ondon-based Sambrook’s Brewery is to relocate production to the nearby Ram Quarter in Wandsworth.

The new facility will be set within the restored Grade-

II listed brewery buildings at the site of the old Young’s Brewery. Sambrook’s will also operate a tap room set around Ram’s central square with outdoor seating together with a visitors’ center and brewery museum, showcasing the history of brewing in London. The new facility will be opening in Spring 2020, after which Sambrook’s will be closing its original site in Battersea from which it has operated since August 2008. Brewing has been taking place at Ram Quarter since at least 1533. Famously the site was home to Young’s until 2006. During redevelopment the Ram’s brewing legacy has been preserved by former Young’s master brewer, John Hatch, who maintains a nanobrewery at the site. The relocation of Sambrooks will relaunch the commercial brewing from the site and continue the brewing heritage since 1533. Duncan Sambrook, founder and managing director of Sambrook’s Brewery, said: “Our move to Ram Quarter

this and secure the future of Sambrook’s brewery. “It’s a fantastic location for us to expand our retail

feels like a homecoming. Wandsworth has had a rich

offering and is just metres from the River Wandle after

brewing heritage and we’re excited to be able to continue

which our most famous beer takes its name.”

Lens branding boosts brewery recognition

M

icro Matic has rolled-out 3D lens branding, designed to improve a brewery’s visibility at point of

purchase. According the business, such branding creates “impact, attention and desire”. They explained: “The new range is the latest example of working in partnership with breweries, both large and small and listening to their unique objectives to attract attention when customers are approaching the bar. The next phase in impact is not just making the oval or round lens itself stand out, but to make the brand icon literally come out of the lens. Micro Matic has worked with Heineken on one such project, selecting materials and production techniques for the Project Star design. The company was able to develop the design concept

The lens created by Micro Matic are available in illuminated and non-illuminated versions, suitable for

into a high specification 3D lens, ensuring the iconic brand

different bar settings and they help set brands apart

shapes burst from the edge of the lens helps attract

from the more standard round and oval lenses that are

attention and brand recognition from a distance.

typically seen in bars in the UK.

8

September 2019

Brewers Journal



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business

London Beer Factory refreshes branding

L

ondon Beer Factory has refreshed its branding and launched two new beers.

The company said it has “refocused, redesigned, and

reinvigorated" its branding, while launching Sour Solstice and Big Milk Stout into Tesco stores. “We were disassociated with ourselves” said James Leaver, marketing manager at London Beer Factory. He added: “And I personally struggled to combine the old identity with the modern brewing experimentation and branding we are increasingly becoming known for. “Since day one I have been charged with moving on the identity of London Beer Factory. Taking it from an antiquated and ‘old beer’ aesthetic to this modern, progressive self we have grown into”. The rebrand follows and capitalises on a strong performance from the brewery with growth currently more 100% year on year. The refresh precedes a decision by the brewery to move away from their South London industrial park in Gipsy Hill to a larger site. The team is looking for a new

core range artwork by Studio JQ the refresh reflects an open, striking, progressive, and clean identity in line with the brewery’s ethos. “Once we began the evolution of the London Beer

location to expand the brewery and brewhouse following

Factory we realised we needed more than a redesign, but

a steady rise in demand.

a recasting of our identity and ethos, and a subsequent

“We not only outgrew our previous branding but our identity itself. What the brewery stood for was lost in the last designs” said managing director Sim Cotton. Designed by Glasgow-based studio Thirst Craft, with

refinement of our voice,” he added. The brewery will transition into the new look over the next 3 months, with all new beers out of the brewery as of last month featuring the new branding.

New festival to launch in 2020

B

rewLDN, the new bee festival from the founders of Craft Beer Rising, is launching in February 2020.

The event will take place at The Old Truman Brewery

from 27th - 29th February, replacing the long-running Craft Beer Rising and designed to “drive innovation and create an unrivalled experience for the UK brewing trade and consumer markets”. The three day event will incorporate two trade sessions and four consumer sessions, each hosting up to 200 exhibitor stands. Exhibitors include independent breweries, cider producers, spirits, snack stands and street food traders. Chris Bayliss from BrewLDN, explained: “Craft Beer Rising was an incredible journey and something the team are all very proud of. We are keen to take all of those

years." He added: “Innovation in brewing and discovering

learnings to deliver the ultimate trade and consumer

new tastes and trends are central to our ethos as is

show in the UK.

championing diversity and sustainability within the

“We’ll take this opportunity to start something new, with independent ownership and a renewed mission based on how the industry has evolved over the past few

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September 2019

industry. "Annually we expect to welcome 8,000 consumers and 4,000 trade guests across the 3 day event.”

Brewers Journal



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B US I N ES S

Wye Valley Brewery appoints new head of sales

W

ye Valley Brewery has appointed announce Abbie Gadd as its new head of sales, a role that is set to

absorb her existing position as head of marketing. The new role follows her impressive track record as head of marketing, during which time the brewery has seen a dramatic 35 per cent increase in sales, the business said in a statement. Despite producing an average of 800 barrels of beer per week, Gadd has been a driving force behind Wye Valley Brewery’s evolution into an eco-friendly brewery, with 55% of its energy now com-ing from renewable sources. Abbie Gadd, head of sales and marketing at Wye Valley Brewery, said: ‘I am immensely proud to be given this opportunity and I’m looking forward to working with an exceptional sales team at Wye Valley Brewery. “I am excited to build on what has been a successful period for Wye Valley Brewery as continue to brew some of the country’s best beers with our commitment to green, sustainable production. Our methods and products have received deserved national recognition in recent times and I hope will long continue.’ Vernon Amor, managing director of, added: ‘We’re delighted to appoint Abbie as our new Head of Sales and Marketing. Abbie has been a fantastic addition to the management team and has brought a new dimension and processes to the marketing department. Now we’re looking forward to her fresh and innovative approach being applied to the sales function of the business.’

Consumer demand for low to no-alcohol beer increases

3% in Ocado. However, the share of low alcohol, and alcohol-free ranges is increasing in UK supermarkets. Total range

C

onsumers are rejecting beer and cider at the check-

with an alcohol by volume (ABV) below 0.05% (alcohol-

out in favour of low to no-alcohol beer and cider,

free) increased in all retailers – including Waitrose – with

according to e-commerce insights company, Edge by

Morrisons having the biggest range of alcohol-free beers.

Ascential, and reported in the Retail Times.

Moreover, the share of low-alcohol beers and ciders (<=1.2

The company said that it found the average number of alcoholic beer and cider ranges stocked in UK supermarkets is declining, as trends towards health-

and >0.05%) also increased, with Ocado in the lead with 39 products in total. Irene Bodega, insight analyst, Edge by Ascential, said:

conscious consumption are leading consumers to opt for

“Consumers are continuing to place more value on health

alcohol-free alternatives. This was based on examining

and wellness, and the demand for healthier options when

data for July 2019 and comparing it to data from last year.

drinking is now on the rise. Brands should therefore take

Research revealed that, since August 2018, all UK

advantage of these changes in consumer tastes, through

retailers have reduced their ranges in beer and cider, with

investment in the low alcohol and alcohol-free market,

up-market Waitrose showing the largest decrease (-26%).

which are proving popular with retailers.

Morrisons and Ocado are the only retailers that expanded

“Brands should also place a stronger focus on product

their ranges of beers and ciders during this time, with the

descriptions to highlight dietary suitability to ensure more

product count increasing by 13% in Morrisons and also by

transparency will consumers that are ethically minded.”

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September 2019

Brewers Journal


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San Diego’s craft industry hits record high

T

he USA’s ground central for the craft beer industry

the ocean, a single piece of flotsam can create an entire

continues to grow at a record rate, creating jobs,

ecosystem. Craft breweries have proved to be the same.

income, and tax revenue for America’s favourite city. In a report published last month by California State

Second, there are now 155 independently owned craft breweries operating in San Diego County at the end

University San Marcos and the San Diego Brewers Guild,

of 2018. This figure excludes breweries that are owned

it stated that the annual economic impact of the San

by large multinational corporations and therefore do

Diego craft beer industry increased to a record-high of

not count as craft brewers according to the Brewers

$1.17 billion in 2018. This figure is an increase of about 5.5

Association, the national craft beer trade organization.

percent over 2017. Local brewers are optimistic about future growth, too. In a survey conducted by CSU San Marcos, it found a confidence index of 91 among San Diego craft breweries

With some breweries having multiple taprooms, pubs, etc, under the same license, the number of craft beer operating locations is over 1,000. When there were 50 craft breweries, it was said

(above 50 indicates a positive outlook). The vast majority

by many that 80 would be the maximum number

of respondents indicated that in 2019 they intend to

of breweries the area could sustain – there are

increase their overall production (91%), invest in capital

approximately 3 million people in San Diego County.

equipment (82%), and hire more staff (76%).

Once the figure reached 80, the saturation point was seen

While San Diego and its palm trees probably seems very far away from you, the implications of this report matters to all craft brewers. First, it shows that craft breweries are good for villages,

as 100, and so on and so on. According to Bill Vanderburgh of the Coast News Group, so far in 2019 seven new breweries and 12 new satellite tasting rooms have opened in San Diego County

towns and cities by bringing in revenue and stimulating

(four breweries and three tasting rooms have closed).

areas. In New York City, Brooklyn Brewery transformed

Around 21 breweries that have announced plans to open

the warehouse area around it to such a degree – bringing

by this time next year.

in other businesses and residents to an area seen as a

Even if just two-thirds of those plans come to fruition,

blight – the Brewery can no longer afford to be there.

that would be almost a 10 percent increase in the number

San Diego’s craft breweries have done much to

of breweries in the county over the next 12 months, said

transform communities such as North Park, South Park,

Vanderburgh. In California – which has 900 breweries

and Normal Heights in a way no other businesses have.

– craft breweries seem to be the only business that

If local councils are hesitant about granting you a license, point them towards this report.In barren parts of

London Fields Brewery to open doors of new facility

competition may help with mutual success. You should see your fellow craft breweries in the same light.

The ethos, they said, is to brew ‘flavourable’ and balanced beer that’s inclusive as well as fun to drink. Recent brews have included I Heard it Brut the

ondon Fields Brewery wil unveiling its new brewery

L

Grapevine, a Brut IPA with grape juice, champagne-

and taproom, when it opens the doors this month.

like carbonation and a crisp, dry finish, Hallogen, a

The all-new taproom will serve brewery-fresh beer

tart ‘raspberry smoothie’, notable for being brewed

ranging from IPAs to lagers and seasonal sours.

with absolutely zero hops, and Sisters Brewin’ It For

Over the past year, head brewer Talfryn Provis-Evans has been designing the new brewery from the ground

Themselves, an alcohol-free dry-hopped sour. On the opening, Talfryn Provis-Evans said: “We’re

up, while he reworks the London Fields core line up of

really excited to open the brewery this summer and

Hackney Hopster, 3 Weiss Monkeys and Broadway Boss.

bring it back to its original home for the first time since its

Talfryn has opted for custom-built brew-kit chosen in consultation with the team at sister brewer Brooklyn

relaunch. "We’re hoping the new site will become a strong pillar

Brewery, which will enable the team to make any style

within the community and an open, creative space for

of beer, from pales and IPAs with "more juiciness, more

future collaborations”.

aroma and more bang for your buck", to a small batch

Founded in 2011, London Fields Brewery is based

programme of seasonally-inspired sours and saisons and

in Hackney, east London and was the first commercial

a series of experiments in low to no alcohol fermentation.

brewery to open in the area since the 19th century.

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September 2019

Brewers Journal


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n e ws

Seltzer category continues to swell

T

he hard seltzer sector in the US continues to grow, with Anheuser-Busch launching new lines.

Much like how the big boys in North American and

the UK jumped on craft brewing – either by buying-up or copying – so too are they jumping on the next big thing: seltzer with an alcohol buzz. In the States, Anheuser-Busch – never known to be leading from the front – is releasing Natural Light Seltzer, a 6% ABV beverage that is available in two blends of fruit flavors. Aloha Beaches combines mango and peach for a tropical feel, and Catalina Lime Mixer features black cherry and lime. This is the seltzer you never saw coming, claims Anheuser-Busch, adding that “Natty” is ready to “rock the seltzer world.” “The seltzer category is booming. It’s part of a larger shift in consumption across America and we believe it has

The main thing that sets seltzer apart from club soda

tremendous staying power,” said Ricardo Marques, vice

is that seltzer does not contain any added minerals

president of core and balue brands at Anheuser-Busch.

which allows it to be enhanced with flavourings like citrus

“We know plenty of Natty Light drinkers are also trying

without altering the taste.

seltzer, so we want to meet that demand by bringing

Why haven’t you heard of seltzer? It originated in

the fun of Natty into that space with an affordable price

Germany, where naturally occurring carbonated water

offering that fits their lifestyle.”

was bottled and sold. It was brought to the USA primarily

If you’re unfamiliar with seltzer, the main difference between seltzer and sparkling water comes down to

by Jewish immigrants so is very common and popular in cities like New York, Chicago and Los Angeles.

where the carbonation comes from. If the carbonation is

Most craft breweries are already set-up to produce

artificial, it’s probably seltzer or club soda and regulated

seltzers with a minimum amount of fuss, requiring water,

like a soda. If the bubbles are naturally occurring, straight

carbonation, and canning or bottling facilities. This is

from the source, it’s sparkling water.

turning out to be a huge money earner in the States.

Asahi acquires Australian brewery

A

sahi has acquired a 100% stake in Brisbane-based Green Beacon Brewing Co

Green Beacon has a well-established reputation in

Australian craft beer, which is cemented by winning Champion status three years running at the Australian International Beer Awards. The brewery was founded in 2013 by Adrian Slaughter and Marc Chrismas, two school friends who have been

which is open to the public and operates as a much-

at the forefront of the burgeoning and exciting craft beer

loved community hub. This is supplemented by additional

scene in Queensland.

in-house production and distribution facilities located in

With two Brisbane breweries located in Teneriffe and Geebung, Green Beacon’s range of beers includes

Geebung, north Brisbane. Peter Margin, executive chairman, said: “This is a very

Windjammer IPA, Wayfarer Tropical Pale, 3 Bolt Pale Ale,

exciting time for our business, as we add this great brand

Half Mast India Session ale, Seasonal releases like ‘The

and great business to the Asahi Beverages family. We are

Whaler’ and special release beers such as ‘UpperCut

looking forward to working with Marc and Adrian to help

Double IPA’.

grow the Green Beacon business, and bring their great

The Teneriffe site also includes a brewpub and bar,

16

September 2019

tasting beer to more consumers.”

Brewers Journal


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rose

beer

tr e n d i n g

Why you should go pink In an original Star Trek episode, you could almost see Dr ‘Bones’ McCoy and Captain James Kirk starring into the alien glass, which holds a sparkling, pink drink. Bones scans the fluid with his tricorder and gives Kirk a puzzled look. “Well Bones, out with it, is it beer?” McCoy hesitates. “It is Jim, but not beer as we know it.” Velo Mitrovich reports on this strange phenomenon called rosé beer.

by velo mitrovich

percent in the last two years, And, as far as men not

M

drinking it, nothing could be further from the truth with

y nephew tells this story. He is working in Paris and his French

some men dubbing rosé wine “Brosé”. The ancient Greeks made it by crushing black-

colleagues invite him and another

skinned grapes and allowing the skins to remain

expat, a young English woman, out

in contact with the juice for a short period of time,

for dinner. As the evening goes on

ranging from two to 24 hours. Three to four thousand

and all are getting a bit sloshed, the woman takes the

years later and this technique is still the preferred

bottle of red wine, pours some of it into a glass, and

method, although there are two others, including the

then takes a bottle of white and adds it to the glass.

blending of red and white wines – sacre bleu!

“Rosé!” she shouts, downing the glass to the shocked

But. While that is all a fine and dandy history lesson,

looks of the French at the table. For a French winery to

does a rosé really belong in your brewery’s line-up? It

do the same, impossible, it is forbidden by law.

is never going to become the new IPA and in looking

Despite some people wishing it was forbidden as

at around 30 breweries making rosé-styles of beer, it

well in the beer industry, rosé beer has continued to

will never be the suds that built the new brewery. And,

be one of summer’s big hits in the States, continuing

let me whisper this into your ear, you know you don’t

on from last year’s big foray into the pink. The light

actually need to rosé wine to make rosé beer. What is

sour with a low ABV is an ideal summer drink and

this pink drink all about?

while some breweries see it as a way of bringing in

No standard

“non-traditional beer drinkers” who prefer rosé wine, it has proven to appeal to both genders. The question is, after two strong years running, is this a trend you should be thinking of for 2020? Many look at rosé wine as something best forgotten from their teenage years thanks to cheap bottles of Portuguese Mateus Rosé. The plonk is shunned by

I

s there an official standard for rosé beer? While some people will tell you otherwise, outside of it having a pink colour, the answer is no and the

colour itself is more-or-less an industry acceptance,

many so-called wine experts due to its lower alcohol

rather than something written in stone like with the

content and fruity flavour. And, there is its pink colour.

various shades of graded pink in farmed salmon.

This can put off manly, masculine men, who don’t want to be seen sipping “a woman’s drink”. However, not only is rosé believed to be the oldest

At this year’s Great American Beer Festival there are 107 beer styles listed, along with around 100 subcategories of beer, listing Chili Beer, Honey Beer,

known type of wine, introduced by the Greek god of

Ginjo Beer, six types of Smoke Beer, and two different

wine Dionysus and favoured by heroes, today’s much

types of Pumpkin Beer. But rosé beer, not a one. How

improved quality, aroma and taste has brought about

it’s created is most definitely in the eye of the brewer,

a rosé Renaissance. Indeed, according to USA Today,

with about as much variance as there are breweries.

rosé wine and all things rosé, including beer and cider, have seen a North American jump by around 55

brewersjournal.info

While many brewers use wine in creating their rosé beers wanting that taste and colour, just as many rely

September 2019

19


tr e n d i n g

rose

beer

on ingredients like hibiscus, strawberries, raspberries,

Rhinegeist brewery in Cincinnati, Ohio, brought out

cranberries, blueberries or pink Himalayan sea salt and

its rosé beer, Bubbles, in 2016 as a special one-off. The

do not use one drop of wine or even wine barrels for

response was so positive, however, that Rhinegeist

aging.

followed up the original 40-barrel batch, with a 100-barrel

Before getting too upset though, for eons brewers

batch in 2017. Now it’s producing the 6.2% ABV Bubbles

have been using names to describe flavours which

year around in 240-barrel tanks, making it with apples,

would never make an ingredient list. For example, how

peaches and cranberries for tartness and blush.

many of us have had an orange chocolate stout, with rich

Crooked Stave’s 4.5% Sour Rosé is primary fermented

orange and chocolate flavour, without one iota of orange

with a mixed culture of wild yeast and undergoes

or chocolate in the ingredients. We don’t condemn the

fermentation in large oak foeders on raspberries and

brewer or call her an imposter; instead we marvel at their

blueberries. Unfiltered and naturally wild, each can is

ability to entice amazing flavours from malt.

packaged with a small amount of yeast to maintain

It should be mentioned here that one Colorado

freshness. Crooked Stave claims its Sour Rosé is the first

brewer is getting screamed at for its rosé beer, but not

100% traditional sour (primary fermented in oak) beer to

for reasons you’d imagine. Oskar Blues Brewery uses

be released in cans.

hibiscus and prickly-pear cactus in making its rosé ale –

Situated in California wine country, Anderson Valley

a little bit different but nothing to get upset about – but

Brewing Company decided to take lessons learned from

then they decided to name it Guns’ N’ Rosé.

previous collaborations with local wineries to mimic the

Oddly enough, Guns N’ Roses was very upset

flavour of rosé. Framboise Rosé Gose is made by adding

with Oskar’s choice of name. The band said it caused

rose hips to the boil and fresh raspberry puree at the end

“irreparable damage” to their brand, claiming that fans

of fermentation.

would confuse it with official products. The band sued

Grape-added

for trademark infringement against Oskar Blues Brewery, which is part of the Canarchy Craft Brewery Collective, Action they have since dropped. Three breweries not causing “irreparable damage” with their no-wine rosé beers are Rhinegeist, Anderson Valley Brewing and Crooked Stave.

20

September 2019

A

t this point you’re wondering if anyone actually adds wine to its beer to create rosé beer and there are numerous.

Brewers Journal


rose

With around 250 wineries in California’s San Luis

beer

tr e n d i n g

Its 5.3% Goses Are Red is a wheat-based beer that

Obispo County, Firestone Walker Brewing Company

spends some time in oak foeders with grapes added to

did not have to go far to find grapes for its 5% rosé beer

give it the rosé character, colour and taste.

Rosalie. Introduced in 2018, Rosalie is made with a mixture

Thinking pink

of local wine grapes including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscat. Dried hibiscus flowers are added to bring out the pink colour. Founded in 1996 by brothers-in-law Adam Firestone and UK-born David Walker on the Firestone family vineyard, today the state-of-art brewery in Paso Robles, central California, is California’s fourth largest craft brewery and the 16th largest in the USA. Upland Brewing Company of Bloomington, Indiana,

I

s rosé beer something you should be producing? While we are heading away from summer when most rosé beers are consumed, for summer 2020 it would

be a good time to start experimenting. The driving forces seem to be its colour and its lower ABV. While some breweries go after the rosé wine flavour

has been doing brewery/wine collaborations for over 14

by adding wine or other ingredients to get that wine

years. The brewery works with nearby Oliver Winery and

flavour, others seem to totally ignore the rosé flavour.

Vineyards to create its Oak & Rosé barrel-aged fruited

In interviews, some brewers see rosé beer as being

sour ale. At 7%, this has a higher ABV than most rosé beer.

a ‘gateway’ beer, used to bring in new beer drinkers into

Upland uses the same grapes for its beer as Oliver

the fold. If your brewery specialises in 30-year plans, this

does for rosé wine, Chambourcin, which gives the beer a vibrant red colour. This is a new French/American hybrid

might be your approach. But, perhaps a better one would be to care less which

that grows well in Indiana, a state not usually known for its

gender drinks rosé beer and instead, just try to produce

wine production. According to Upland, the grape imparts

a refreshing, flavourful summertime beer that looks

flavour descriptors such as cherries, red fruit, red berries,

stunning in a glass. No brewer is having to buy a bigger

herbal, or even millipedes.

safe to hold all that extra cash they’re making from rosé

Orange Country craft brewer Bruery Terreux seems

beer, but it could be a good addition to your existing

to have experimented with wine more than any other

line-up. The market is there and it is a worthwhile one to

brewery going by its list of retired beers, including

pursue. Just don’t believe, however, it will ever become

Wineification.

your number one seller. u

brewersjournal.info

September 2019

21


Co m m e nt

CO NTR ACTS

Preparing your brewery for a big contract Many brewers dream of getting listed — but without the right preparation, that dream can quickly turn sour. Josh Lunn, sales consultant for leading inventory software provider Unleashed, outlines the steps you should take to prepare your brewery for a contract with a supermarket, restaurant or pub chain. by Josh lunn

F

of your reorder points. The line between stockouts and overstocking will only get thinner once volumes start surging. The fundamental question here is whether you're able to rapidly increase your output without drastically increasing costs. To achieve this, you'll have to keep a close eye on your stock across every stage of production — as well as your total potential yield. If you don't know exactly what's on hand right now (and where it is) then consider upgrading your inventory system. Another question that many brewers overlook is whether someone else can take over the business if you suddenly leave. After all, it's not your name on the

or any business aiming to make the step up to working with a significant industry player,

contract, it's the business. Does your margin determine your pricing, or does

KFC's 2018 chicken shortage should provide a

your pricing determine your margins? Because trade

cautionary tale.

businesses are going to negotiate far harder than any

The issue, after all, wasn't KFC's. It was

customer you've dealt with before. If you're not 100%

their new distributor, DHL, who wasn't prepared for the

confident in your margins, then this is going to cause a

size of the new contract they'd signed. They didn’t have

serious headache.

the people, processes and technology in place to scale to

You'll also need to ensure that your sales systems

match KFC's requirements. KFC quickly reverted to their

are up to scratch. Trade businesses will expect an EDI

previous supplier and DHL's reputation was in tatters.

to buy direct. Adopting an online B2B store for smaller

While DHL is big enough to recover from such a setback, independent brewers can't afford to make the same mistake. The added sales admin, traceability

customers is advisable, so you can save time by enabling them to self serve. Perhaps the most important area to focus on across

requirements, massive production targets and tight

suppliers, production and sales, though, is traceability. To

margins associated with getting listed will test every

get Sales and Local Supplier Approval (SALSA) requires

aspect of your business. If your people, processes and

proof that you can trace all raw ingredients (including

technology aren't up to the task, then getting listed will

packaging) from origin through to sale. If you don't have

stretch them to breaking point.

the systems in place to support this, then your chances of

To ensure that your brewery is prepared, it's important to understand the level of expectation trade businesses

making getting listed a success are slim. Is new software the answer? Depending on a

will have of you as their latest supplier. I've broken

brewery’s current setup, as a consultant for a cloud app

down these expectations into three areas: supply chain,

provider I will often lean on the side of yes. But lots of

production facility and sales function.

what I've covered above is perfectly possible to set up

Everything starts with your suppliers. If they can't scale their operations according to your new needs, then you won't be able to meet the demands of your contract. Making sure that your suppliers can perform at the

with sophisticated spreadsheets. What software offers is the ability to scale. DHL's issue wasn't a lack of software. It was a lack of appreciation of what it takes to meet the demands of a

required level means tracking their performance across

big contract. A bit of preparation today will make sure that

several metrics. Plus, you'll need multiple suppliers in

your brewery doesn't fall into the same trap.

place for each ingredient you buy. But your supply chain doesn't begin and end with your suppliers. Getting listed also demands absolute mastery

22

September 2019

Follow my big contract checklist to guarantee that your people, process and technology are all ready for getting listed. u

Brewers Journal



Co m m e nt

ENVI R O N M ENT

How micro-brewers can reduce their environmental impact If you make the effort to increase the sustainability of your micro-brewery or distillery, you may find that it benefits not only the environment, but your finances too, says Gillian Bruce, manager of The Scottish Environment Protection Agency’s NetRegs service. by GILLIAN BRUCE

R

the brewing process and consider using a heat exchanger to recover and reuse heat from your processes. Buying new water-efficient equipment has a large upfront cost, but it will save you a lot of water and money in the long run.

Energy consumption

T

he brewing and distillery processes are extremely energy-intensive – it is essential that you not

unning a micro-brewery or distillery is no

only reduce energy use where possible, but also

easy feat, with lots to consider for these

make sure that the energy that you do use is as green as

small teams across the country.

possible.

Without the benefit of large teams

or dedicated staff specialising in

environmental legislation, it is easy to get confused about what you should and shouldn’t be doing to minimise your impact on the environment. Here we’ll explore exactly what your obligations are as well as outlining good practice examples. What is the environmental impact of breweries and

This can be as simple as swapping out your existing lightbulbs for energy efficient ones or reducing the amount of time certain equipment is running. Cooling tower use is also regulated – if you use one, you must notify your local council in the first instance and find out if you need a pollution prevention and control (PPC) permit. When it comes to waste, it’s crucial to try to reduce your brewery or distillery’s output and comply with a

distilleries? The brewing and distillery industries are two of the

duty of care. This means it is important that you produce,

largest industrial users of water and for every barrel of

handle and store waste without causing harm to the

beer produced, typically use up to four and a half barrels

environment. Additionally, you must comply with packaging

of water. In addition to water usage, energy consumption, waste

regulations if your business manufactures, supplies or

by-products, wastewater and air emissions all remain

handles packaging or packaging materials. This will be

key issues when it comes to the environmental impact of

relevant to you if you package your own product, as many

breweries and distilleries.

micro-brewers and distillers do.

Although micro-brewers and distillers may not have as

Make sure the packaging you use is recyclable and

much of an environmental impact as the bigger brewers,

the organic waste is being used for agricultural processes

but they still must adhere to a number of legal regulations

to cut down on what is being sent to landfill. If you have

under each area of impact.

remaining general waste, consider installing an incinerator which can then recover some of its energy.

Water use

As we’ve outlined, there are so many simple steps you can take towards reducing your brewery or distillery’s environmental impact. Some are even as easy as

C

oncerning water use, specific requirements must

swapping your existing lightbulbs for energy-efficient

be met relating to water quality, monitoring and

ones.

risk assessment. For example, you must have a

If you make the effort to increase the sustainability

Trade Effluent Consent form from the sewage provider if

of your micro-brewery or distillery, you may find that

you want to discharge liquid waste to a public sewer at

it benefits not only the environment, but your finances

the end of the brewing or distillery process.

too. Further advice can be found on the NetRegs site,

Demand for water continues to increase, so it’s vital you use it wisely. Recover as much water as possible from

24

September 2019

including a savings calculator which can reveal how much you could be saving by investing in sustainability. u

Brewers Journal


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Co m m e nt

S K I LL S

Does the UK face a brewing skills gap? There are numerous options out there for brewers, as well as brewery owners wanting to improve the improve the knowledge base and skillset of their teams. But if we’re truly to propel a growing brewing sector forward, you have to know the right fit for you, explains Chris Horne, director of Brew-School.

Firstly, the nature of apprenticeship schemes means that much of the education can be generic, that means non brewing specific and without any or enough contact tuition the quality of the experience may be at the very least questionable. The individual nature of each apprenticeship scheme means that there is no one overarching brewing apprenticeship standard. Each apprenticeship is specific to the training organisation and this in my view limits their ability to function as a brewing qualification. Whilst

by Chris Horne

W

hat do I mean by the brewing skills gap? In the UK the brewing

I’m sure for some it can provide a useful entry in to the industry its long term value for the recipients has yet to be proved. At the opposite end of the training spectrum, long

industry was dominated until

drawn out degree-based university courses are not what

recently by a small number of large

the industry needs. For most brewers and microbrewery

or even massive breweries. Most

businesses, time and financial constraints mean that this

of these breweries took on staff who had passed through

is impractical; also for most individuals a university level

the traditional university education or trained them up

education may be overly academic and expensive.

using professional qualifications such as the Institute of Brewing and Distilling. Over the last few years the UK brewing industry

A 50 grand debt hangover to learn what for many is the very practical as well as technical art of brewing seems excessive. Equally, brewing apprenticeships without a

has seen an explosion of microbreweries, often set

definable qualification, whilst being a welcome addition,

up by enthusiastic home brewers who have ‘side

may not be the panacea to brewing education that they

stepped’ these traditional routes into the industry. This

first suggested.

has simultaneously brought into the industry a level of

What are the alternatives for craft brewers? Well

passion and experimentation that has transformed the

currently there are limited choices. For many craft

whole brewing ecosystem for the good. In my experience

brewers they mix elements of experience gained by

this has also meant that the base scientific and technical

brewing at home or in a microbrewery with attending a

knowledge of brewing in many microbreweries can

variety of one day courses where available. These one

sometimes be patchy.

day courses can be useful to bridge knowledge gaps but

Don’t get me wrong; in some it’s excellent; in others,

when they are run by industry suppliers they can also turn

alas, almost non existent. This all impacts when it comes

into glorified sales pitches and with advice that is far from

to overcoming problems in the brew house and also

objective.

ensuring the consistency of the beer. Inconsistent beer

Personally, I remain convinced that a short intensive

quality is a long-term problem for all those who are keen

course pitched at the equivalent of an A-Level which

to see the UK craft beer and microbrewery sector grow,

covers the science of brewing in a practical, unstuffy way

mature and prosper.

but with a hurdle based examination and a recognisable

Some parts of the brewing industry have responded

qualification at the end is what the brewing industry

by campaigning for the establishment of a brewing

needs. I’m envisaging a General Certificate in Brewing

apprenticeship. This is all very laudable. As a result there

(GCB) PLUS or PLUS PLUS.

is now an array of new brewing apprenticeships ranging

I believe an enhanced GCB or equivalent would

from 12-18 months in duration. The aim of these new

provide a base level of scientific understanding for

apprenticeship schemes is to provide a level of on the job

brewers to allow them to upskill and achieve what they

training and education. However, apprenticeship schemes

want and brew great beer consistently whilst helping to

in general have not proved to be the out and out success

continue to propel a growing brewing sector forward. u

that was hoped when they were introduced in 2011 and numbers of entrants keep on falling. I can only suggest there might be a number of reasons why the schemes have not been an out and out success.

26

September 2019

Chris Horne is a Director of Brew-School in Bakewell which seeks to inspire through a range of courses and qualifications for brewers and craft drinks enthusiasts worldwide.

Brewers Journal


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03/05/2017 15:18


Co m m e nt

S T arting

a

B rewery

Set your boundaries Starting a brewery is a daunting task, but there’s a lot of help out there as long as you know where to look, explains Zac Rismiller, head brewer and managing partner at 1623 Brewing by ZAC RISMILLER

W

Brand exposure

hat’s the best way to start a brewery? I get asked that a lot and end up helping many people. I’ve helped, advised, or down right consulted on many breweries

opening. I’m in the middle of doing it yet again, this time for myself.

Opening a brewery is crazy, tragic, and exhilarating all at the same time. I can tell you, though, it can be weirdly

N

ow that you’ve got quality and are keeping it coming, how are you going to fill the place? Most of the places I’ve helped launch have been in

Colorado - home to well over 400 breweries. So, standing out in a crowded market is beyond important. How are you going to do that? Again, quality of beer is

intoxicating. I keep saying, “I want to do it again!” We all

the most important thing. Why do many good breweries

had the conversation around a homebrew kettle about

go out of business? Customers aren’t coming. Creating a

how we could or should go pro, “Let’s start making some

brand development and marketing strategy with the help

money at this!” We’ve discussed the tap room theme,

of an agency and a public relations firm can help increase

what beers we’d specialize in, and how we’d cater to our

exposure for your brewery. Just like quality, brand

segment of the craft world. The reality of construction

consistency is key.

budgets, hiring, and managing the business, hits hard.

Consistently brewing quality and people are coming

Done right - a brewery can be one of the most worthwhile

in, but how do you get people to stay and come back?

things you’ve ever done.

Customer experience. Your beer passion and knowledge

First and foremost, you should have an undying

should show through your team on the front lines for you

passion for brewing and all things beer. Including when

every day. It’s critical to hire a diverse group of people that

the sad and eventual truth sets in: You may have started

will uphold and are passionate about the culture you’re

your brewery to make beer every day, but you’ll probably

establishing. It’s time consuming and expensive, but man

end up hiring someone else.

is it worth it to do so!

Remember, this is a business, not a retail location

Avoiding burnout

where your money is set on fire - let your ego go. The scale, processes, and just generally how things are done, take years to master and the best way to be successful. Consider tasks like scheduling, ordering ingredients, keeping track of everything you've got going on, and how that relates to your finances, among many other

R

emember to have boundaries, for yourself, your customers and your employees. It will seem impossible to take time to yourself. Self-care or

things. You’ll need help there too, and unless you want

you will burn out. Despite how much you love and live

9,000+ spreadsheets, you’ll need a CRM. I’ve done the

this life, it will steal your passion if you let it. I’m not saying

spreadsheet thing and I don't recommend that at all.

take 10 weeks off in the middle of summer - take a day a

Get a software like BREW x 5. It will do almost

week and stay home with your cell phone on just in case

everything except brew the beer for you. It has a QuickBooks integration too, for a really reasonable price.

of emergency. Industry resources will help you in making great

There are solutions out there that can really put a dent

decisions. Join your local brewer’s guild, attend meetings,

in the ol’ wallet. Do your research on what software is

get involved, join an association, connect with breweries

best for your needs and customizable to grow with your

in your area to exchange best practices. And above all

brewery goals.

else, be intentional and authentic in everything you do. u

28

September 2019

Brewers Journal


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d e a r

j o h n

Have beer, will travel In recent months, John Keeling has continued to immerse himself in the world of beer. Whether that’s visiting breweries in New York, or debating with peers in Birmingham, he continues to learn about the industry he loves. by JOHN KEELiNg

The first visit was to Pete, so we got the L train. I still get a buzz from catching the subway in New York

I

especially the A train but that’s because I am just a Duke

’ve just been to New York and Washington. Then I

Ellington fan at heart. We got off just a stone’s throw from

went to Birmingham to be part of Birmingham Beer

the brewery and arrived bang on time at 11 am.

Week. Both visits were highly enjoyable and both

Pete is a biologist by training and brings that insight to

taught me something about beer. I’m still learning

his work. Brewing might well be regarded as an art and

in my sixties because beer and the brewing

a science, but a biological outlook is definitely needed.

industry is a complex thing and, even after a lifetime of

Pete had also immersed himself in the local history and

study and observation, I feel sometimes I know less than

delighted in telling me how German brewers had settled

some of the younger brewers I meet.

in Brooklyn because of the excellent water. Shame

Was I ever that enthusiastic, was I ever that good?

members of the best brewing nation, Britain, didn’t settle

I started brewing in 15 BC that is 15 years Before Craft.

in Brooklyn first, then maybe cask beer would be the beer

Innovation was finding a cheaper alternative to malt, or hops. At that time, there were several papers in the

of America. The second visit was to see Al at Brooklyn, this time in

Journal of the Institute of Brewing about brewing one

the company of Sid Boggle. Symone was interested in his

beer (stock beer, but not as we know it) then adding

unusual name and when I said just call him Simon, she

colour to it at packaging to turn it into stout or add

just looked perplexed. Again, we caught the “L”. I just like

bitterness to turn it into bitter. If you left it alone, you could

writing that, what a show off.

call it lager. I remember one paper on the incidences of

What a success story Brooklyn Brewery is, too. I have

rectal cancer in beer drinkers. At that point I thought that

been several times and each time it grows and gets

brewing science was in danger of vanishing up its own

better. I still think that the Brooklyn brewers are the most

posterior.

important people in the company which is my definition of

Then along came craft and brewing changed, now

what craft is. I will never tire of visiting this great brewery.

flavour is king, and brewers are key. Marketing, at least

Both breweries make excellent beer and well worth

the best of it, is informed by the beer. What I like most

visiting if you are in New York, just remember to take the

is that nobody is in silos unlike the more established

L train.

companies, where all ideas are incubated in a department

In between these two visits we spent three days in

and the first the others know about it is when it comes to

Washington. This also included a national holiday July

the execution phase.

4th, so we just decided to join in the fun. I managed to

I went to New York principally as a holiday to celebrate

only drink wine while I was there, and I was determined to

Symone’s birthday. But I couldn’t resist, and booked

make sure Symone enjoyed herself for her birthday this

myself and Symone in for trips to meet Pete Lengyel-

year, so I didn’t arrange any beery things to do. She later

Fushimi at Kings County Brewers Collective and then to

complained that there seemed to be a lack of breweries

meet Allan Duvall at Brooklyn Brewery. Symone knows

in Washington. Looks like a return visit is in order.

by now a holiday is not a holiday without a visit to a

When we returned from our holiday, we had a date in

brewing related place. She still remembers, with a shiver,

Birmingham where Brett Laniosh had asked me to speak

a memorable birthday visit to a yeast factory (yes it was

in a beer debate where I was to be joined by a host of

her birthday).

luminaries including Marverine Cole and Pete Brown. The

30

September 2019

Brewers Journal


d e a r

panel was made up with Ash Corbett-Collins from CAMRA and Miranda Hudson from Duration Brewing. They are both considerably younger than me and I expected them to bring youthful enthusiasm to the debate, but often showed greater insight than me. That shows I should leave my ageism at home. I was more than happy to be in this debate and wanted to speak about my pet gripe, the future of cask beer again. Those who read my column will be well aware of what I think should be done, and I think CAMRA are the organisation that should be fighting for 20p reduction in cask beer duty. But enough of my hobby horse. What I really wanted to talk about was what a great city Birmingham now is. One place that is a must visit for beer lovers is the Old Joint Stock and just to further entice you just opposite is a cathedral which contains some fantastic stained glass, another must visit. The Old Joint Stock is the furthest north the Fuller’s empire stretches and is one of the bestlooking pubs they own. Great staff, a great manager in Paul Bancroft, and great beer too. Plus there’s an on-site theatre so what more can you need?

brewersjournal.info

j o h n

Symone still remembers, with a shiver, a memorable birthday visit to a yeast factory (yes it was her birthday). John Keeling

The centre of Birmingham seems to have been

completely redeveloped with a great museum which had a Black Sabbath section. Plus if you like classical music then the concert hall is a must. Oh, and don’t forget to walk along the canals where you will see a bridge called the Brewmasters Bridge, while the library and its views are a must too. Plenty to do in Birmingham! Birmingham is a beer city and has a great feel to it. It

is definitely another city I will be returning to on a regular basis.

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b r e w e r s

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bristol

Brewers Lectures The Brewers Lectures return to Bristol this October. There’ll be experts from across the brewing industry delivering insightful and engaging talks, a load of great beer and the perfect opportunity to catch up with friends old and new.

B

KEY INFORMATION The Watershed (Waterside 3) 1 Canon’s Rd, Bristol BS1 5TX

ristol? Where do you start... The city has long since established itself as a haven for incredible beer. You also have a

10 October 2019 12.30 to 17:00

wealth of superb bars, taprooms and pubs

to enjoy the produce of the fantastic breweries that call Bristol home.

There is Lost and Grounded Brewers, Moor Beer, and Left Handed Giant. Then there's Wiper and True, Bristol Beer Factory and Arbor Ales. And who are we if wel fail to mention Electric Bear, Good Chemistry Brewing and

As we all come to these events from differing backgrounds and differing means, we have made all tickets available for free, we just ask you to make a small donation if you are able so that we can continue to run these events.

more…. The afternoon will comprise talks from brewers and brewery owners as well as leading names from the fields

Go to lectures.brewersjournal.info for tickets and the latest speaker information

of ingredients, business and branding. We’ll also have a drinks reception where you’ll be able to enjoy some fantastic beers from breweries across the UK. Join us for an afternoon not to miss!

proudly sponsored by

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September 2019

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b r e w e r s

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Bristol speakers David Freer / Jonny Mowat | O Street At the Brewers Lectures Bristol, O Street’s Jonny Mowat and David Freer will deliver a joint presentation. They are a studio based in Glasgow, London and Denver made up solely of designers. Their beer work includes the rebrand of Fyne Ales and Brewdog’s Abstrakt range. Miranda Hudson | Duration Brewing Miranda Hudson is cofounder of Duration Brewing, a progressive farmhouse brewery to make 'Beers That Belong' in Norfolk. Her deft project management skills have raised Duration’s profile ahead of its imminent opening later this year. Miranda and Derek Bates (cofounder and brewer) have released high profile collaborative and own beers while planning and building Duration from the ground up to deliver wild ales and fresh beers from nature with purpose.

and brew beers defined by balance and flavour, John is using his retirement to collaborate, consult and create with breweries across the globe. Claudia Mayne | Five Points Brewing Company Claudia Mayne is the digital and marketing manager for the Five Points Brewing Company. A pro in the field of social media strategy, online content management, Claudia helps ensure the Hackney brewery’s online presence matches its day-to-day output brewing award-winning beers. Sam McMeekin | Gipsy Hill Sam McMeekin is the co-founder of London’s Gipsy Hill Brewing. Since starting the business back in 2014, the company has gone from strength-to-strength, growing year-on-year. Last year it opened a fully accessible tap room, released an increasing number of special beers and started a barrel-ageing program. Alex Troncoso | Lost and Grounded Brewers

Stephen Jones | Unleashed Software Stephen Jones is territory manager at Unleashed Software, a cloud app that enables businesses to track and control their products across supply, production, inventory and sales. John Keeling | Fuller’s

Alex Troncoso is the co-founder of Bristol’s Lost and Grounded Brewers alongside co-founder and partner Annie Clements. Known for their standout flagship Keller Pils, this unfiltered lager epitomises which they are about: understated simplicity and creating something delicious and complex.

John Keeling surely needs no introduction. But for those unaware, John is the former head brewer of London-based Fuller’s. Regarded and respected the world over for his ability to create

brewersjournal.info

September 2019

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B r e w e ry

to u r

manchester

union

Good things come to those who wait To become the number one lager in Manchester would be a fantastic achievement and that’s exactly the goal of Will Evans, Jamie Scahill and Ian Johnson, the team behind Manchester Union Brewery. And they plan to get there by extolling the virtues of excellent, locally-produced beer. by tim sheahan

T

here was a moment when Will Evans, Jamie Scahill and Ian Johnson probably wondered why on earth they ever considered getting into this brewing lark. We’ve all been there. That extra pint, or

three, when you’ve got an early start the next morning. For that trio, the hungover cloud of regret lingered large as they were being driven across the Czech countryside by an brewhouse manufacturer showcasing their kit. “There we were, all hungover in the back of some banged-up Subaru being driven to the middle of nowhere,” laughs Evans. “Have you ever seen the film Hostel? It was like that. I’m pretty sure we all thought that was the end of us that day.” Thankfully, they survived to tell the tale. Czech lager is, of course, great. So when the team were in the stage of choosing which manufacturer would supply the brewhouse for their new brewery, it’s no

There are very few people in the world that can, or want, to get involved in this kit Ian Johnson, Manchester Union Brewery

Johnson’s exacting demands narrowed the field of

manufacturing suitors because he wanted a brewhouse capable of decoction mash brewing. “There are very few people in the world that can, or

want, to get involved in this kit. It’s far more complex than a single infusion ale kit,” Johnson explains. “I knew Vincent from my previous brewery, and I knew how good he was technically, so it gave us full confidence in partnering with them.”

“Ian was unshakable in his commitment to decoction

mash brewing,” says Evans.

A normal brewery would step mash, raising the

temperature in a number of stages from around 40 degrees up to around 77 degrees. Johnson leverages decoction mash techniques, which involves taking a proportion of the mash to a different tank and bring that to the boil for a set time. At 100 degrees you get the Maillard reaction which is

surprise that Evans, Scahill and Johnson were diligent in

a chemical reaction between amino acids and reducing

their research. Especially with their head brewer Ian on

sugars, which gives browned food its distinctive flavour,

board.

such as seared steaks and toasted marshmallows.

“I wrote a 12-page specification on how I wanted this

This adds a slight caramelisation to the beer and also

brewery to work,” recalls Johnson. “I was very clear on

a small but pleasing amount of tannins. However, the

what we needed and what we didn’t. I asked for quotes

biggest thing the beer garners from this is the big silky

from about four UK manufacturers and only one came

mouthfeel thanks to the melanoidin release.

back to me, and that was Johnson Brewing Design. I don’t think anyone else wanted to touch it!” But why, you make ask...

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September 2019

“Some German lager brewers would get big mouthfeel by adding specific types of malt but these can deliver a higher perceived sweetness in the beer and proper

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“ B r e w e ry

to u r

manchester

union

producing average beer like the big corporates and we want something we’re proud of.” Evans splits his time between helping run a brewery while also selling other people’s beers in his role looking after Manchester and surrounding areas for Cave Direct. It was in this capacity that he met Scahill. Scahill also divides his time. When his attentions aren’t focused on Manchester Union Brewery, he is the head of

To many people, the complexities of our beer will be overlooked while it lubricates conversations rather than being the conversation and we’re really happy that’s the case

marketing for ticket outlet business Skiddle. But like so

Will Evans, Manchester Union Brewery

is housed in an impressive facility on North Western St,

pilsner should be dry. Some people dispute the need to

many stories before theirs, it was a love of great beer and a desire to make a mark, that they bonded. And by November 2018, they would have a brewery and the first brews complete. Manchester Union Brewery where it can call Beer Nouveau, Alphabet and Wander Beyond Brewing its neighbours. The trio knew they needed to go big from the start

use a decoction process, it was primarily introduced to

if they were to match their lofty goals, especially when

get the best malt extract from poor quality malt so with

building a business around lager.

great malt nowadays do we really need it?" says Evans. He adds: “The by-product from this old method

“It was obvious from day one that if we were to have enough beer to supply even 15 to 20 bars, we’d need a

was the melanoidin and tannin release that couldn’t be

consistent supply of beer. Considering this beer needs to

replicated any other way and for us in search of body and

stay in tank for six weeks, and brewing only four times a

mouthfeel as well as flavour and dryness this was the only

month, those brews had to be big,” says Scahill.

way we wanted to brew.”

Evans’ desire for such a beer can be traced back to

In their own words, business started somewhat slowly. The rate of sale expected from certain bars and pubs

meeting Johnson at the tap of fellow Manchester brewery

was lower than predicted. Establishments they thought

Blackjack several years back.

would sell five kegs a week were only kicking one. But

“I was drinking a lot of IPA, and someone suggested

at the same time, they knew lager was a tough sell in a

I tried Ian's lager. I was blown away by the depth of the

competitive market so patience and brand building was

beer, the body and the mouthfeel. We got chatting, and

required, too.

he explained how he achieved it. I spent half an hour listening, or at least trying to, as he explained the whole process.” Evans and Scahill already knew they wanted to start

Fast forward a good six months and certain outlets are now draining 15, or even 30 kegs in a week. “It’s phenomenal,” smiles Scahill. “Early on, we probably expected to hit the ground running as you’ve been busy

a brewery, now they knew who they wanted to brew in it.

living and breathing the business. But launching a lager in

Wowed by the wonders of decoction mash brewing, the

February was probably poor timing. Thankfully it just took

duo were smitten. They just didn’t know what they were

time to get going.”

getting themselves into just yet. Evans recalls: “I remember one particular conversation

Evans adds: “It’s a hugely competitive market, and we know that. We initially had thoughts about launching

with a UK representative of a brewery manufacturer in

with a Pale Ale, too. Although the issue we had was the

Canada who was growing frustrated that we wanted

possibility of that becoming too popular and with that,

something he couldn’t deliver, his frustrations turned to

the temptation to concentrate on a beer that is quicker to

anger, manifested in condescendence.

produce than the lager. And our focus was always going

'You don’t need to do this, Ian'. “Ian’s reply was as resolute and simple as ever, 'I know

to be on lager. “So here we are, taking the fight a wee bit to the big

we don’t have to but we want to'. This guy was never

guys. The bigger multinationals will have their routes to

going to get it but that’s ok, not everyone is going to pick

market and their own methods, but as long as Ian keeps

up our beer and think ‘big body but still dry, how’d they

producing, we’ll always have quality on our side.”

do that?’. "To many people, the complexities of our beer will be

Scahill continues: “And along with that, provenance. This is a Manchester beer and people are relating to the

overlooked while it lubricates conversations rather than

idea of a locally-made product. Our goal is to make it the

being the conversation and we’re really happy that’s the

number one lager in Manchester.”

case but it’s really important to us otherwise we’d just be

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September 2019

And for them to achieve that, the trio know they need

Brewers Journal


Will Evans, Jamie Scahill and Ian Johnson | Manchester Union Brewery

to win over casual drinkers and not just beer enthusiasts. If we can can start to converting the Peroni and Heineken drinkers, or whoever they are, then hopefully there’s no going back,” says Evans. “To do that, we not only have to offer a quality product, but also be competitive on price.” He adds: “It would be great to get a bit more margin

whether we needed to pursue decoction mash brewing. But after taking a step back, I’d ask what’s the point of doing this at all if we’re not doing what we intended?” Such a resolute approach could be forgiven to waiver though, especially when inevitable breakages occur. “In this brewhouse you are effectively moving a thick porridge around,” says Evans. “So we actually use a pump

out of the beer but at the same time, if we want to build

that would normally be used in a jam factory, where it’s

this brand, you need to make those compromises. We

used to moving warm, thick liquids around.

want this beer to be drunk in beer havens like Cafe Beermoth, as well as 'regular' pubs and bars” Thankfully for Evans, Scahill and Johnson, drinkers

“But that went down recently and we couldn’t brew until a new one arrived. £9,500 later and here we are.” With those hurdles overcome, though, the remainder

are taking to their excellent beer. So much so that further

of 2019 and beyond is looking very good indeed. The trio

expansion is already being lined up.

are thrilled to be invited to pour at the venerable What’s

“We just need to get our ducks in a row, explains Evans. “The good thing is we don't have to go through the

Brewing festival in Norway, while award nominations are coming thick and fast.

headache of financing the whole brewery again and we

“Last year was a challenge and there was so much

can just add three new tanks, which are a fraction of the

uncertainty. But after a slow start we’re really hitting our

cost of the brewery but give us a 50% increase in capacity.

stride,” Evans explains. “The challenge now is to continue

The brewery’s commitment to decoction mash brewing hasn’t been without its hurdles, though. “I find myself questioning Ian. Actually, it happens quite a lot,” laughs Evans. “I remember early on debating

brewersjournal.info

engaging with drinkers, old and new. And that means sparking the curiosity in people to try our beer, those people where the beer choice isn’t the number one factor where they drink.”

September 2019

37


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Proving your worth Marble Brewery started out back in 1997 and since then some breweries have come, and have breweries have gone. But in that time, Marble Brewery, under the leadership of director Jan Rodgers, has become a mainstay in the everchanging brewing scene. Now, in their new Salford home, under the guidance of head brewer Joe Ince, they're ready to push on even further. by TIM SHEAHAN

I

watering vegetarian dishes from Bundobust on Piccadilly, and equally tantalising shots of perfectly served cask courtesy of The Marble Arch Inn on the Rochdale Road. At a time where an increasing number of pubs rarely resemble traditional hostelries or worse, don’t exist at all, The Marble Arch Inn is still very clearly a pub. Wooden panelling, ornate decor, comfy seating of all kinds and beer, lots of fantastic beer. Not to mention great food, too. And it’s here where the Marble Brewery journey started back in 1997. But a lot can happen in 22 years. When the brewery started life as a four-and-a-halfbarrel plant at the back of much-loved inn, the UK brewing landscape was markedly different than it is today. Breweries have come, and have breweries have gone. But in that time, Marble Brewery, under the leadership of

n this world nothing can be said to be certain,

director Jan Rodgers, has become a mainstay in the ever-

except death and taxes,” Benjamin Franklin so once

changing brewing scene.

famously said. Fast-forward some 230 years, in an age

dominated by social media, there are two

Beers such as Lagonda, Manchester Bitter and Pint have made indelible marks in the hearts and minds of drinkers, while newer creations from head brewer

certainties when fans of great beer and food visit

Joe Ince have taken the brewery in hop-forward and

Manchester.

experimental directions.

And that’s the deluge of snaps featuring mouth-

brewersjournal.info

That’s not to say he doesn’t respect the so-called

September 2019

39


classic styles, either. Joe is a firm advocate of styles, regardless of dispense, that many modern drinkers are

and 30% because your boss will only add 20. “Everything just takes longer. So it’s important to work

potentially missing. As a result, he ensures that Marble’s

with people you like and people that you trust. Whether

output appeals to drinkers of all kinds.

that’s a fabrication company, a lift and shift, or a drainage

Now, a good seven months since they started brewing at their new home in Salford, the business boasts a new brewhouse, the ability to brew an increasing number

firm. If the person isn't right then the price doesn't matter. I cannot stress that enough.” Both Ince and Rogers talk with glee about the

of beers, and is in the process of putting the finishing

brewery’s new home in Salford. Following years at the

touches to its first ever taproom.

company’s old home, the new facility represents the start

But despite a successful expansion under their belts, Rogers and Ince are also acutely aware of the challenges

of a new era for the business. “What’s important for me is that it enables a happy

that lie ahead in what is an increasingly competitive

workforce,” says Rogers. “The old site was dreadful, if I’m

market.

honest. The team would have to step over syringes to get

“It’s been a lot of hard work, but we’ve been brewing since March and had a lot of great help along the way,”

to work and there was fly-tipping everywhere, too." Ince adds: “Technically we can control what's

explains Rogers. “I’m very proud of what we achieved in

happening a lot more. We have a steam-fired kit so we

the old arch and to how we left it, too. Anybody that has

are much better in terms of energy usage and managing

old kit and is moving to a new site, especially if you have

wastage across the brewery.

a full repairing lease, you have to make sure you sort that before moving on! “And when you’re going through that process, make sure you add on extra 20% to what you think it's going to cost,” says Rogers. Ince steps in: “Make sure to add an extra three months

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September 2019

“There’s a real efficiency in terms of workflow, too. Previously, I could only assume the old setup was put together in such a way to make my life so f**cking hard. But that’s no longer the case, thankfully. “Ingredients now come in one side and processed beer goes out the opposite door. Kit is arranged in a

Brewers Journal


“ marble

horseshoe flow and it just saves us so much time in terms of production. “We run a very small, hard-working team that is well looked after. It’s an ethos of mine that I don't need a lot of people in production, instead calling on a small team but a talented highly skilled one at that. “And the more time we can spend making beer, cellaring beer and packaging it, the better. This new facility allows for that. Oh, and I can bring my dog Daphne to work as well.” Ince is the latest head brewer to take charge at Marble. Rogers is rightfully proud of the way Marble’s brewing alumni have gone on to work and start other breweries across the UK, including James Kemp at Yeastie Boys, James Campbell, former head brewer at Cloudwater Brew Co and now of SSV Limited, Dominic Driscoll at Thornbridge, Colin Stronge of Salt Beer Factory, Matthew Howgate at Legitimate Industries and Dan W De Bechevel, founder and head Brewer at Wander Beyond Brewing, to name but a few. Ince, who took over from Kemp last spring, relished the opportunity to specify Marble’s new brewery setup, adopting his meticulous attention to detail at every turn. Gravity Systems were commissioned to provide the new brewhouse alongside some ancillary equipment, while Jenn Merrick, founder of Earth Station, also worked with Marble on the initial brews on the new kit. “There was a lot of back and forth, and we could have

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If you have 2000 breweries in the UK, very few of those are big producers and they need protecting Jan Rogers, Marble Brewery

got some kit off the shelf, but we probably would have ended up getting rid of it in a few years,” says Ince. “I had a very set idea of how I wanted things to work and partnering with Gravity Systems allowed us to achieve that.”

He adds: “Initially they suggested rakes but we’re only

a 25hl brewhouse, and you don’t work for me if you can’t dig out a mash tun of that size. We’d go through what both parties suggested and made everything work. “For me, the whole process was approached with

the beer leaving the door and the grain coming into the building. If you're planning a move, setting up a brewery or undergoing an expansion, always work backwards.” Marble output 4,300HL last year and although it holds

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against this pressure. If you have 2000 breweries in the UK, very few of those are big producers and they need protecting.” The Marble Brewery of 2019 is a reality made possible by financing in-house, an approach Rogers is happy with. “We don’t have a lot of money so took the decision to sell the Marble Beer House in Chorlton and also sold our old kit, which together raised £200,000 in working capital,”

If you don't follow the market you have to be strong enough to stand on your own. Joe Ince, Marble Brewery

she recalls. “Conversations with a finance company for new kit followed but the terms required of us, and the sums to repay over five years, were ones we weren’t comfortable in matching.” Rogers adds: “So we went back to the bank and discussed remortgaging against The Marble Arch Inn. It’s

no great desires to pass the 5,000HL mark, the team

a property, to a bank, that’s worth a lot of money in theory,

know that could well become an eventuality.

so we went ahead with that option.

“One other great benefit of this new kit is that it’s all

designed to be plug-and-play. At present, if I never went home at night, we could probably output somewhere

“When it’s all said and done, we will have spent around £750,000 and learned lessons in the process. "There are a lot of conversations taking place regarding

between 6,500HL to 7,000HL,” says Ince. “Everything

crowdfunding and private equity, but all I can say is that

that's already in there in terms of heat exchangers, CLT

we’ve done our own little bit and done things our way."

and HLT are all ready to take on extra pressure that comes with new tank capacity, but there are no plans to go over 5000 at the moment. It’s been set up to do so if needs be.”

He goes on: "Having gone through brewery expansions

elsewhere at a boots on the ground level, I am very aware

And doing things their way is an ethos that applies to the beers Ince and his team produce, too. “The brewer should always lead the formulation of new beers. But I would say that, it just means I’ll get a hiding from Jan, too,” he laughs. Ince explains: “In previous roles, we’d have meetings

of pressure that has on your team. You could easily be in

at production level and when there was a free slot in

the position where everyone is doing 16/17 hour days for

production we’d discuss what we should brew.

three months, so we’re thankfully avoiding any potential situation with this new setup.” In this new era for the brewery, Rogers and Ince feel

“I’d, of course, always suggest a 7% Simcoe-heavy West Coast IPA but I’d never want to be put in a situation where I’m told by someone what to brew and how these

that the one challenge that very much remains is the

three fruits or whatever will work together. Never throw

threat to Small Brewers Duty Relief (SDBR) from those

that at me. Hopefully I know enough about brewing to not

outfits operating at a bigger level, in terms of volume,

be told how to do things on that side.”

than Marble. “There are breweries feeling squeezed, so instead of trying to do battle with the even larger, often multinational breweries, they are trying to take away from the smaller brewers in a big to regain their market share,” believes

One thing Ince is also certain on is that he’s open to all beer styles. But he questions following trends. “If you don't follow the market you have to be strong enough to stand on your own,” he stresses. “If you are chasing the market because you think that will increase your sales then everything relies on you and

Ince. He adds: “The pressure groups that are working to

the quality of your product,” he says. “If you just ignore it,

remove SBDR find it easier to tackle the high number

and do what you want to do all of the time, someone still

of smaller breweries than is to take on the bigger

has got to come and buy your stuff otherwise you'll go

multinational companies.

broke. So you have to have strength in your convictions.”

“It's way easier to f*ck over smaller breweries than it is

Being confident in your product, and putting out

to f*uck with the multinationals. At the end of the day, AB

something you’re proud of, is one thing. But informing

InBev make your regional family brewery look like a guy

the consumer of what you’re offering them is another.

in a shed. If I was going to court, would I go to court with

As more drinkers enter the space, the challenge of

someone like Heineken or me? I know who I'm going to

educating the drinker broadens.

mess with!”

“Watery. This beer is watery,” laments Rogers. “No, that

Rogers adds: “I'm asking the breweries producing

beer is session-strength and it’s meant to be that way. If a

around 7000HL to 10000HL, ones that are in a sphere of

drinker has made their foray to beer through heavy, sticky,

influence in the industry. We need them to publicly repeal

strong stouts, then of course a cask, low ABV beer will be

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the word traditional is being bandied around in the wrong way. I am as proud of cask beer being made here in the UK as anyone is of the Lambic producers in Belgium.” He says: “There is an art in producing great cask beer that is so in tune with making any other type of beer that is well respected in the world. "It’s no different to brewing a good Pilsner, a Lambic, or a Doppelbock, and it should be respected in that way.

Cask beer should be respected because nobody else is going to give a s*** unless we do Joe Ince, Marble Brewery

different. It’s a matter of making that clear to the drinker.” She adds: “You can enjoy Haribo, and you can enjoy

Because nobody else is going to give a s*** unless we do. “Now, I didn't really start drinking beer with the respect I should have until I left Manchester and went to work at Magic Rock. It's there I witnessed how invested the team were in the the beer they produced. “We were knocking out world-class beers, but if you messed up Ringmaster (the brewery’s flagship pale ale) and Uncle Dave knocked back 10 pints of it that Sunday,

Green and Black’s. There’s a spectrum and these can all

you would most definitely have a s*** Monday back at the

exist alongside each other.

brewery. You’d make damn sure the next batch was bang

"But one thing I’m very sure on is that, in the age

of New England-style beers, we need to have a

on. “The old boy drinking cask in a pub should be given

conversation on bitterness, and inform the drinker, on its

the same amount of respect as people buying a brand

existence, too.”

new pastry stout, For me, there should be no more talk

“It's ok to like what you like,” explains Ince. “But I think

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September 2019

about traditional beer, just great British beer.” u

Brewers Journal


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31.01.2019 14:27:45


fo cu s

point

of

sale

Grasp the opportunity

Budgets likely won’t allow you to brand every surface in the bar, nor would you want to. However, a few carefully selected products can have a huge impact on customer’s decision making at the point of sale. Just don’t leave it ‘till the last minute, get ahead of the customer journey and try and have an effect as early as possible, argues Al Hobson, managing director at Just Peel. by al hobson

I

Don’t limit yourself indoors, particularly in the summer months you should be outside waiting to greet your thirsty guests with a hearty hello. You can impress your

f you’re waiting until someone is at the bar before

brand on drinkers 50 yards down the road before they’ve

you try and get them to choose your beer, you’re

even decided to go in the bar that you’re in.

likely too late. Why wait until drinkers arrive at a

Already you’ve got a foot in and made a head start

saturated bar before you start shuffling for attention,

on influencing their choices. A well placed para-sol, a

playing pump-clip argy-bargy with your fellow

branded chalkboard on an inviting bench or even a poster

brewers; you’ve already missed some big op-portunities

in the window is all it would take to spark recognition in

to get ahead of the game.

someone passing.

The decision making process can start a long time

Success. Your pride of place parasol has persuaded

before drinkers even put on their shoes to head out the

the punters to pop in for a pint…and a pork pie. Don’t

door. Your social and digital media strategy can play

stop there though, you’re just getting going. You’ve got a

a huge role by planting the seed of recognition and

whole range of POS in your ar-senal that you can use to

keeping your brand fresh in customers minds. Your online

represent you but don’t fall in to the trap of one size fits all.

presence will go a long way in making your offline POS go

Your choice of POS should both enhance and be enhanced by the venue in which it sits. While realistically

further. Start online and you'll add value to your POS. You’ll

we can’t tailor our POS range to every establishment,

also start the ball rolling when it comes to customers

you could try and segment your stockists and see if

making their decisions about what beer to try when

your existing POS range works well for each type of

they’re next out. Now as they get closer to the bar, that’s

establishment.

when you can really start to ramp things up.

46

September 2019

You could embellish your range of POS with a few

Brewers Journal


P oint

of

sale

F OCUS

extra items where you see it might be falling short. In the past we’ve produced branded board games for the traditional pub setting as well as high quality denim aprons for more up market venues, both tailored to their respective markets. If your POS isn’t in keeping with the venue you’re in, it likely won’t even see the light of the day. Now with your carefully crafted range of POS you can continue to affect change in the minds of your customers. They’ve now moved from the outdoors and consciously or not they are licking their lips in anticipation of their tipple, thinking of what they might go for this time. There’s a lot you can do between the door and the bar. You should aim to strategically place POS in key areas to maximise the amount of exposure in this critical

Fermenters

timeframe. Before punters even begin perusing the pumps you can gain a big lead. Beermats are great for tables but try a table talker as well to bring your brand into the 3rd dimension, and for a

Filtration Tanks

more premium touch try something more permanent like a chalk board or a bar caddy. POS at the table is a great way to keep your brand fresh in minds between rounds. Now when it comes to

Brew Kettles

the bar, you can’t always rely on customers to crane their neck to spot you at the end of the line, bars are long and a well-placed strut card can really extend your presence on the bar. Why not see if your stockists have space for a

Mash Tuns

back bar display? Branded glassware is a staple but you could look into reusable plastic cups for beer gardens. Establishments won’t risk their nice glassware outside so there’s an opportunity to be their go-to cup for the

Lager Tanks

beer garden. Lastly, think about decoration, bunting is good for events but if you keep your design generic, a lot of places will try and reuse a good length of bunting time and time again. Budgets likely won’t allow you to brand every surface in the bar, nor would you want to, however a few carefully selected products can have a huge impact on customer’s decision making at the point of sale. Just don’t leave it ‘till the last minute, get ahead of the customer journey and try and have an effect as early as possible. I have a core belied in making POS work harder, and we want to make budgets go further. We want brands to look as good as they can in the place where it matters most. can help whether you are simply looking to stock up on beermats, source new items or start a complete refresh of your POS range – from garden umbrellas to bar runners; driptrays to ice buckets; bar caddies to clothing and much more. Plastic Free POS is also becoming ever more important and we have already developed a wide range of products that are traditionally made from plastic or other less

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environmentally friendly materials. u

brewersjournal.info

September 2019

47


Great Beers

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+44 (0) 1733 367217 | www.gravity-systems.co.uk


israel

&

palestine

c ro s s i n g

co nti n e nt s

The Tale of Two Breweries It really is the best of times, it really is the worst of times; it is the age of wisdom, it is the age of foolishness; it is the spring of hope, it is the winter of despair. Velo Mitrovich reports from Israel and Palestine, where – as much as he tried – he found it impossible to talk beer without talking politics.

the Canaanite sun-goddess Shemesh, or Sun, and the ruins of the biblical city are still visible on a low hilltop from the modern city. Taybeh goes way back. According to the Bible, Jesus, after Lazarus' resurrection, retired with his disciples to Taybeh – already an established village. A church was built where he rested. From its ruins, you can look east into Jordan and south to the Dead Sea. While our bird can easily make the journey between the two breweries, good luck doing the same. Politics,

by velo mitrovich

A

history, and even more politics rule this region – the majority without logic – which is a real pity because one

bird with no interest in worms could fly

thing both breweries have is a real desire to make a joint

between the Shapiro and Taybeh breweries

brew together. What should be the easiest thing on the

in about 20 minutes. Shapiro is located just

planet to do, is probably the hardest. In this part of the

west Jerusalem, in the Judean mountain

world, nothing is easy, not even making beer.

city of Beit Shemesh. Taybeh is found just

To understand the problems Israeli brewers have, it’s

east of Ramallah, in the small mountain Arab Christian

best to look at Israel as an island. While it might share

village that it’s named after.

land borders to the north, east and south, with Lebanon,

Beit Shemesh goes way back. The city is named for

brewersjournal.info

Syria, Jordan and Egypt as its neighbours, all supplies

September 2019

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israel

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party, he chose to make wine, not beer. Nothing has changed in Israel since then, with beer not being the first choice for most. Since the early 1950s, there have been two main beer companies in Israel; Tempo brews a pale lager called Goldstar and a pilsner named Maccabee. Israel Beer produces Carlsberg and Tuborg under license. None are worth writing home about. In 2005, Israel’s first craft brewery, Dancing Camel, was started. Today there are around eight good sized craft breweries that do everything themselves – brew, package and transport – and 10 to 15 small contract breweries. Between all of them, they’ve chipped away at the two big companies and now have about 30 percent of total sales. “It’s like everything else in this country,” says Itzik Shapiro, “we start late [with new innovations], but we’re fast, we catch on quick.” Dani and Itzik started brewing when an older brother returned from the States and gave them a book on

Shapiro brewery, 2019

homebrewing. “Next time I come home, I want some good tasting beer.” There were no ingredients in Israel for homebrewers,

have to arrive by ship or plane.

so every time family and friends went to the States or EU,

While this sounds like a headache, this is nothing

they were expected to bring back ingredients for the two

compared to what Taybeh Brewery goes through. Being

brothers. They started with a production of 20 litres and it

in Palestine – a country not recognized by Israel, the

grew from there.

USA, most of the EU, Canada, Australia, New Zealand,

“We thought we were the only one’s home brewing in

and others – it is like being on an island, surrounded by

Israel,” says Dani, “but we found out there were others like

an island that you have some major issues with. Supplies

us.”

coming to Taybeh have to go through Israel and past

For a time they were the first and only commercial

its border guards. Beer going out has to go through the

brewers in Jerusalem but as their passion expanded, they

same.

needed more room, so they moved to Beit Shemesh.

Even when maintaining the politest and respectful

“With our first real expansion, we started with four

of attitudes, only until you too have experienced first-

10-barrel fermenters,” says Dani. “When we filled them

hand the problem of dealing with young, bored, and

up, we thought that was it, we’d never have to work hard

armed Israeli border guards, can you appreciate the daily

again, we had made it.”

problems Taybeh has in its quest to make excellent beer. “Things happen here that no other brewery in the

While the two brothers enjoyed making beer, they realized early on they needed an expert brewer. Yochai

world has to put up with,” says Dani Shapiro, who with

Kudler, who trained in Germany, was brought in from

his brother Itzik started Shapiro Brewery. During your

almost day one and has stayed with Shapiro ever since,

time in both Israel and Palestine, you will hear this refrain

giving the brewery great continuity. The result has been

frequently.

American beers made in a German style. “We don’t go crazy here,” says Dani. “We want

But not this. “If we could only get everyone around a table,

everything drinkable and enjoyable. We don’t see any

Israelis, Arabs, Jews, Muslims, and Christians, and all

point in getting beer as sour or as hoppy as you can, at

have a couple of beers, we could sort all of this out in an

15% ABV for beer geeks. We like it mellow, interesting, and

afternoon,” says Dani.

for everyone.” Styles include IPA, lager, winter ale, pale ale, wheat,

Israeli craft beer

oatmeal stout, a barrel aged chocolate porter, and a new sour. While TBJ was there, Shapiro’s – and Israel’s – first

A 50

lthough beer was first created in this greater

kettle sour was being brewed, which was excellent.

region, when a noted Jewish rabbi decided to

Dani says it took Shapiro’s a couple of years to build up

turn water into a pleasing beverage for a wedding

the courage to make a sour, due to fears of wild yeasts

September 2019

Brewers Journal


israel

&

palestine

Ori Sofer, Shapiro Brewery

c ro s s i n g

co nti n e nt s

the brewery which is undergoing a massive clean. While no one at Shapiro is religious, to sell beer to people that are, the brewery and beer has to be certified kosher.

contaminating the rest of the brewery. Dani says they went to the surrounding hillsides and

While TBJ was visiting, the last batches of beer were being brewed and a clean-up was beginning for Passover.

picked flowers, wild herbs and other plants to source

During this eight-day period, no yeast can be used so the

ingredients for the sour. After experimenting, they decided

brewery shuts down completely.

to go with an almond flower – blossoms – sour, which is

Because many people in Israel are surprisingly not

being brewed with a double fermentation method. It’s first

religious, Shapiro had to be working at almost a double-

fermented with wild yeast from the almond flowers and is

time-speed before Passover to ensure these customers

then given a second fermentation with Saison yeast.

would still have beer over the Passover holidays. Then

“We had to go through something here that no other brewery has to with this,” says Itzik. “Because our beer is kosher and insects are not kosher, we had to have a rabbi

immediately afterwards, they have to put the petal to the metal to catch up on orders. “The good thing about this period is, when we shut

oversee the almond blossoms to make sure there were

down, we shut down,” says Dani. “I don’t answer my cell

no insects in it.”

phone for any work questions, it’s a great break from

“We have things happen here that no other brewery in the world has to put up with,” echoes Dani, pointing to

brewersjournal.info

work.” When asked about how they see their future, Itzik says

September 2019

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and not what is reported on the news. “People thought I was crazy; that I was out of my mind to open a brewery here, but I didn’t listen and it worked,” Nadim says, in a talk that he has repeated many times. When living in Boston, Nadim became a homebrewer. When he returned to Palestine, he thought why not continue with beer and create a unique Palestinian beer. “In 1994, our first batch was 500 litres, now we’re

People thought I was crazy; that I was out of my mind to open a brewery here, but I didn’t listen and it worked Nadim Khoury, Taybeh

producing around 600,000 litres annually,” he says. To get your question out of the way, while you would think Palestine is all Muslim, there are around 50,000 Arab Christians living there as well. Besides the complicated export market – more on that in a second – it is these Christians who Taybeh is targeting. For Muslims, Taybeh

what most craft brewers won’t: he’d like to see Shapiro

makes one of the few 0.00% ABV beers. But, while

bought by Goldstar.

Nadim is talking and you’re trying in your mind to match

“That’s my dream, I’d like to be connected with them.

production figures with exports and local consumption,

They have better labs than we do; they have better

you soon realise that there are more than Christians in

tech support; and better distribution that we could ever

Palestine who are drinking Taybeh alcohol beer.

hope to have. I can offer them beer that tastes good, not industrial beer.”

Palestine's first

W

While the Shapiro brothers might complain of having to import all of their ingredients – just like Taybeh has to do – one thing they don’t have a problem with and that’s water. For Taybeh, that’s a different story. On the hills surrounding the village of Taybeh is an Israeli army radar and communications listening post

hile both Shapiro and Taybeh produce

and three Israeli settlements – technically illegal – built

excellent beers, use pretty much the same

on land captured after the 1967 war. While Palestine’s

ingredients, and would be considered a craft

population has doubled since then, Israel continues to

brewery, that is where all similarities end. The look and

retain 87 percent of water for exclusive use, controlling

feel of the Shapiro Brewery – even how the team looks –

every well and pipeline in the West Bank – its name for

would put them at home in any craft brewery in the UK or

the Palestine region.

North America.

The three settlements on Taybeh land have priority

Taybeh is one of a kind in many, many ways.

access to an unlimited amount of water, which at times

Nadim Khoury and his brother David returned to the

have left taps dry in Taybeh. If you’re making a product

village of Taybeh in 1994 after living in the States for

such as beer that is highly dependent on water, there

20-years. The Oslo Peace Agreement was in place and it

is no polite way of saying this: you’re screwed. In 2017,

seemed that for the first there would be a Palestine state

Taybeh Brewery had to purchase tanks of water which

and peace with Israel. For the two patriots, it was the time

cost the company around seven times what an Israeli

to go home and help build the future.

company would have paid.

While the political future has not panned out the way they hoped, their dream and optimism remains alive. When you speak to Nadim and his daughter Madees – the Middle East’s first and most probably only female brewer – you have to realise that this is what drives them.

“While regular breweries use anywhere from eight to 12 litres of water to make one litre of beer, we’re figured out a way to use less than four litres, reusing the water multiple times in production,” says Nadim. If making beer can be a challenge, exporting it can be

Lucky for beer drinkers, producing good beer fits into their

even harder. To drive from the surrounding settlements

plans.

to the Israeli port of Haifa, depending on traffic can

Besides the brewery, the family has opened up

take anywhere from 90 minutes to two hours. With

probably the only eco-friendly hotel in the entire region, a

checkpoints, restrictions, and other issues which can vary

winery which is using local varieties of grapes, and while

from day to day, it can take the brewery as long as three

TBJ was visiting, an ultra-modern distillery was being

days.

installed. In a land with high unemployment, the Khoury’s

You can imagine what happens to the quality of beer if

are offering employment. In a land with strong negative

it’s on the back of an open truck for that length of time in

perceptions, the Khoury’s are offering tourists a relaxing,

the summer.

beautiful place to stay so they can see the real Palestine

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While this number changes, Taybeh exports beer to

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Collaboration

Taybeh Beer: "Doing business in this country is unlike anywhere else in the world."

I

asked Nadim Khoury about doing a collaboration with

around a dozen countries. Because the Khourys want to install Palestinian pride and awareness, on the label it says, “Product of Palestine.” While this is no problem

the Shapiro brothers. He and Madees know them and there is mutual respect. While I was visiting Shapiro,

Itzik called Nadim, his phone number is in Itzik’s contact

is selling beer in Israel, it is in the USA which required

list. But Nadim shook his head. “I would like to, but now is

Taybeh to change the label to read “Product of the West

not the right time.” Unfortunately, it is hard to see when the “right time”

Bank.” Besides brewing and giving tours, Madees also

will ever come. To say that relations between the Israelis

manages import, export and distribution for Taybeh.

and Arabs are complicated, would be putting it mildly.

She says that from her perspective, she can see the

This article has only touched on some of the problems

discrepancies in how Israeli and Palestinian companies

and while it is easy to point a finger at the Israelis, there

are treated.

are some issues where it is definitely a two-way street of

Last year Taybeh was expecting a shipment of bottles from Eastern Europe; Israeli breweries also had orders on the same container ship. While everything was exactly the

stupidity. To add to this volatile mixture, relations between Arab Muslims and Arab Christians can be tense. In September 2005, hundreds of Muslim men from

same, the Israeli breweries got their bottles two-months

neighbouring Deir Jarir torched homes in Taybeh after a

before Taybeh.

30-year-old Muslim woman from Deir Jarir was believed

“Doing business in this country is unlike anywhere else in the world,” she says, shaking her head. The pity with all of this is somewhere along the

to be romantically involved with a Christian from Taybeh. That said, on 19 April 2013 Israeli settlers attempted to take over Taybeh's monastery and its adjacent chapel.

line, you almost forget that Taybeh is producing some

Youth from Taybeh and surrounding Muslim villages

excellent beers.

including Deir Jreir, Ramun, Silwad, Kafr Malik and Ein

Its flagship beer is it’s Golden, which in Arabic means

Yabrud, joined together and drove out the settlers. Today

“delicious”, says Nadim. With pride, he goes on. “This was

brothers and the best of neighbours; tomorrow enemies.

our first beer, launched in 1995. It’s hand-crafted in small

You never know which way the wind will blow.

batches in German traditional style using a top fermenting yeast and cold lagering. “It has an ABV of 5% which you don’t even feel. On hot days I drink six or seven bottles, and never feel it.” Other beers include Dark, Amber, Light, White, it’s nonalcoholic brew, and a new IPA. While Taybeh’s Golden is excellent, as is its White and Amber, it’s IPA tastes like someone created it who really isn’t sure what IPA is

But one thing for certain is this. For someone like Nadim to stick his head above the parapet and make a Peace Beer with the Shapiro brothers, it could only end in absolute disaster for his family and business. I asked Dani Shapiro the same question. “It sounds easy, I wish it was easy, but it’s not,” he said. “Someday though, it will be.” Like he said, we just need to get everyone around a

supposed to taste like. However, with all the problems in

table and have a couple of beers. They’ve tried everything

getting supplies in, you cannot see Taybeh dry hopping or

else, the Dani Peace Plan just might work where all others

anything else which would use up additional hops.

have failed. u

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Brewers Journal


ON DEMAND CAN APPLICATORS


fo cu s

Q uality

S tabilisation

Making beer great, again and again….and keeping it that way Quality is much easier to talk about than to achieve. It is the culmination of all the steps taken with care and attention to deliver what is promised. Beer stability is a consideration in many of those steps and therefore it can be elusive to achieve. Murphy & Son's Adam Johnson tells all. by Adam Johnson

from the maturation tanks. This was a fantastic experience, however except for the occasional lightstruck bottle, beer from Budvar is also consistently good in package, whenever and however sampled. How do brewers with reputations for high quality maintain beer stability?

Beer stability

B

competitive industry brewers

W

to be commercial pressures dictating shelf life and

face a tough challenge. Quality

compromises made. Predictive shelf life trials can vary

is an area where many brewers

depending on the size, complexity and the level of

orking in the brewing industry can be great fun although in a highly

eer is generally less stable than many other alcoholic beverages such as wine and spirits. Unfortunately, there is always going

believe they can transcend the ordinary and deliver

resource available to the brewer but simply storing,

something remarkable. Quality has many definitions and

sampling and recording simple quality parameters

interpretations however, a personal favourite is;

such as flavour, clarity, foam and carbonation are often

“Consistently delivering or exceeding what is promised”

overlooked by some breweries. This often provides

As a definition this work well within the scope of

invaluable feedback for setting best before dates,

expectation from the customer/consumer. A customer

improving stability and quality and a more realistic view of

may be happy with the quality of a cheap burger from a

how customers experience the beer.

fast food bar on the other hand if they received the same

The subcategories of Beer stability are Physical,

standard burger in a gastropub with an elevated price tag,

Flavour, Biological and Foam stability. Most brewers

they may well be rightly disappointed.

have a rightful respect for brewery hygiene and controls

Brewers especially face the challenge of consistently

and checks in place to minimise the risks of problems

delivering what is promised. Raw materials have inherent

with biological stability. Beer foam is a complex area and

seasonal variation. Popular hop varieties can be difficult

better explored through reading a variety of technical

and/or expensive to procure. Brewing is typically a batch

articles to get a good grasp. I would particularly

process with customers’ expectations and knowledge of

recommend the works of the “Pope of Foam” Professor

beer varying massively.

Charlie Bamforth and our ‘Beer Foam- what you need to

Despite the challenges, many brewers brew great quality beers. Unfortunately, it is often the case that the beer does not maintain quality throughout the designated

know’ blog by Iain Kenny found at www.murphyandson. co.uk/blog Physical stability changes typically exhibit an increase

shelf. Drinking beer fresh from the tank is great but not

in haze & an increase in colour. This is coupled with

always practical and the best brewers invest significantly

unpleasant oxidised flavours. Dependant on the beer

to ensure quality remains high throughout the designated

style brewed, many brewers will target a specific level

shelf life.

of clarity. Beer haze can be defined as small particles

Recently I was fortunate enough to visit Budvar brewery in the Czech Republic and drink beer straight

56

September 2019

suspended in beer scattering light, which we perceive as decreasing the transparency of the beer.

Brewers Journal


Budvar in České Budějovice. Adam Johnson enjoying beer straight from the maturation tanks


Many of our products assist with beer stability however we offer a consultative approach trying work F OCUS Q U A L I T Y S T A B I L I S A T I O N within the brewers philosophy

Low protein malt

Oxygen Pick up Mash Protocol higher gravity cut off

Adjuncts

Reduced Polyphenol malt

Target Gravity

Wort boilTime and Vigour

Dry Hopping rates & Methods Ionic composition especially calcium

Centrifugation & Filtration regime

PVPPPolyphenol reduction

Cold Maturation -Time & Temp

pH Control especially through sparging

Hop TypeWhole leaf, pellets & extracts

Time & Temp in pack

Optimised Kettle finings use

Whirlpool efficiency

Iron and copper content

Silica gel Protein reduction

Enzymes (e.g.Clarex/ Clarity)Protein reduction

Tannic acid -Protein reduction

Adam Johnson Murphy and Son 2019

A summary of factors involved in physical beer stability

Example of clarity with targets for certain beer targets (90ÍŚ Scatter)

quantifiable figure; Typical units are EBC, ASBC, NTU and FTU. <0.8 EBC for beers they want exceptionally bright such as a pilsner or red ale

Very small particles <2 Micron may be considered colloidal as they are too small to settle under the influence of gravity over time. Larger particles such

~5 EBC for a hoppy IPA ~100 EBC for an NEIPA Maintaining these targets throughout the product shelf

as brewing yeast (typically 5-10 microns in diameter)

life, showing care attention and consistency is a common

will typically settle naturally given enough time. Haze

physical stability goal for the best brewers.

measurements are made through instruments, which emit and measure light at a fixed angle. This gives a

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4- A summary of factors involved in physical beer stability

Brewers Journal


Q UALIT Y

STAB I LI S ATI O N

F OCUS

Raw materials

Processing

u Buying low nitrogen malts e.g. 1.6-1.8%

u Effective mashing and wort separation

Nitrogen

achieving complete starch conversion and low wort turbidity u Effective wort boil, trub formation and separation. Hot break carry-over can have a disastrous effect on clarity and stability. u Selection and correct usage of appropriate brewing aids. u Cold maturation time and temperature, shorter times at very cold temperatures have been shown to be more effective at achieving improved stability than prolonged storage at warmer temperatures e.g. 3 days at -2 ÍŚC rather than 3 weeks at 0 ÍŚ C u Centrifugation and filtration require careful controls if used! E.g. prevention of oxygen pick up.

u The use of low protein and polyphenol

adjuncts such as Sugar, Maize and Rice to dilute haze precursors. u Low polyphenol malt is available and can be used to dramatically reduce polyphenol levels u Avoid running to low gravity as most malt polyphenol is extracted during the last runnings. u Hop selection and rates. E.g. T45 vs T90 u Ensure sufficient calcium levels in the water profile; this will assist with protein precipitation. Calcium is also important for yeast flocculation and precipitation of calcium oxalate (beer stone) upstream in the process. u Control of metal ions, especially Copper and Iron, as these accelerate oxidation.

auxiliary finings can be used as clarifiers in their own right. Principally removing protein although it can also have

Common treatment strategies

up to a tenfold decrease in yeast count. Auxiliary finings can work nicely in conjunction with centrifuges to further remove protein and improve clarity and stability.

I

n this section, the focus will be on producing clear

Isinglass is a fantastic beer clarifier providing rapid

stable beer. If this is not the brewers intended goal, an

sedimentation of yeast and some protein material,

understanding should still be useful in producing other

formulations such as Allkleer are relatively forgiving and

clarity goals. Protein, polyphenol, polysaccharide and

form stable sediments with optimum rates. Although

yeast are all common causes of haze in beer. Effective

arguably the best beer clarifying agent, many brewers

raw material selection, processing and treatments need

are now looking to retain vegan friendly products so are

to align to produce clarity and physical stability.

looking at other tank clarifying options. Isinglass remains the clarifier of choice for cask-conditioned beer.

Brewing aids

Tank clarifiers such as Super F may be slightly less forgiving than Isinglass, they are however suitable for

C

vegan friendly beer production and do not require

orrect use of Kettle finings such as Protafloc can

special storage conditions. Tank clarifiers can be used

provide multiple benefits including improved

independently or to supplement other beer clarification

clarity and stability, a low dose rate with a

strategies.

convenient addition point makes them a very popular

Traditional stabilisers- such as silica gels and PVPP

processing aid. Optimum use of finings upstream will

(PolyVinylPolyPyrolidone) have been used in brewing

make downstream clarification much easier, even without

industry for many decades by targeting the common

sophisticated clarification equipment such as centrifuges

precursors for colloidal haze, haze sensitive proteins

and filters.

and polyphenols. Silica gels target haze sensitive

Auxiliary finings can be silicate or carbohydrate based

proteins through absorption. Different types and grades

and like all finings agents work by aggregating particles

are available to suit various processing options. PVPP

to increase their relative size. Although often used in

treatments selectively target polyphenols associated

conjunction with isinglass, especially for cask beer,

with haze during beer aging, there is also some evidence

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F OCUS

Q UALIT Y

STAB I LI S ATI O N

favourite of OILRIG (Oxidation Is Loss and Reduction Is Gain) still applies when discussing electron transfer.

Potential measurement and control points

Oxygen is often present in triplet state, which is not very reactive but when activated by light or heat energy or catalysed by metals such as iron or copper forms highly

u Checking empty vessels to see if they

reactive radicals. These interact with beer compounds to

have been purged of oxygen effectively u Clarification areas such as centrifugation or filtration u Line flushing and beer transfers u Bright beer tanks prior to packaging u In pack

the detriment of beer quality; stale flavour compounds, increased beer colour, increased astringency and accelerated chill and permanent haze formation. A well-respected head brewers’ adage; “If it is measured it can be controlled” Measurement of key parameters is crucial to putting controls in place through the brewing process, ensuring consistency. Although beer was made before we could measure specific gravity, pH and temperature doing so now would feel like driving with your eyes closed.

showing that beer treated with PVPP also shows reduced

Oxygen has been less commonly measured in craft

astringency. Both treatments are insoluble and are

breweries due to the prohibitive costs of appropriate

typically applied in maturation or just prior to filtration

equipment along with the resources needed to maintain

where they are removed.

the equipment in good working order. Better instruments,

Brewers Clarex (Brewers Clarity is the same product

which are more practical and cost effective are now

repacked for the craft market). Although enzymes have

available and allow the brewer to measure dissolved

previously been used to improve physical stability,

oxygen (DO) are available.

brewers Clarex/clarity has become extremely popular

Some dissolved oxygen meters have a very wide

in recent years. Larger brewers see economic and

measurement range 4ppb to 20ppm and this would allow

processing advantages and craft brewers find ease of

the meter to be used to optimise wort oxygenation.

use and low dose rates appealing. A wide variety are also

Live yeast cells have a great capacity for absorbing

utilising the endo-protease to produce gluten removed

oxygen and can readily protect against the effects of

beers

oxygenation in beer. Packaging with a controlled volume

With the immense popularity of hop forward beer

of viable yeast such as 0.75-1million cells per ml can

styles, clarification and stabilisation preferences modified

vastly improve the keeping qualities of beer. However,

to suit these styles retain the fresh hop aroma and flavour

great controls need to be in place to control attenuation.

the brewer has spent time and money building into the

As pasteurisation is not typically employed and even

beer.

when other microbial stabilisation controls are in place

Rather than traditional filtration options many brewers

such as “sterile filtration” are employed and the yeast re-

are opting to use finings, centrifuges or extended

seeded the yeast handling & hygiene standards required

conditioning times to achieve the clarity goals whilst

are very high.

retaining precious aromas. To achieve stability goals

Summary

brewers are selecting from the clarification options outlined above & stabilising upstream in the process wherever possible.

Oxygen

Q

uality is much easier to talk about than to achieve! It is the culmination of all the steps taken with care and attention to deliver what

O

is promised. Beer stability is a consideration in many

xygen control throughout brewing is much

of those steps, therefore it can be elusive to achieve.

discussed and a critical factor for flavour and

Endeavouring to do so may feel like a never-ending task

the physical stability of beer especially post

much like Sisyphus in Greek mythology or the painting

fermentation and clarification. We thankfully live in an

of the Forth road bridge in Scotland. However, a recent

oxygen rich environment but aside from the oxygen

article suggested the never-ending paint job wouldn’t

required at the start of fermentation for the synthesis of

need to be undertook again for over 20 years due to new

saturated fatty acids and sterols; oxygen in brewing is the

techniques and materials so there may be hope for the

enemy.

brewer trying to achieve beer stability. Murphy and Son

Being highly reactive, the old chemistry teacher’s

60

September 2019

are certainly still investigating ways to help! u

Brewers Journal


BREWER CONGRESS 28 NOVEMBER 2019

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C o - fermentation

s c i e n c e

No yeast no beer There is great potential in blending and co-fermentation, both in terms of creating new and desirable sensory characteristics as well as functional and practical advantages. However, with all the potential options and excitement around mixing yeast strains, we must always understand what we are working with, explains Robert Percival, regional sales manager for Europe at Lallemand Brewing.

cultures containing 2 or more distinct strains) that relied on interactions giving character and diversity to ale styles. Unwittingly, brewers domesticated yeast and selected cultures that were good fermenters. It was deduced that yeast was important and brewers would collect the creamy sediment from one brew which was used to inoculate subsequent brews. It was not until the mid-19th century that Louis Pasteur identified yeast as being responsible for alcoholic fermentation. These advances in understanding coupled with new sterile microbiological techniques lead to Christian Hansen developing the pure culture technique in 1883, thus isolating single strain yeast cultures for the first time.

by Robert Percival

N

This, combined with advances in engineering such as refrigeration, resulted in the widespread industrialization

o yeast, no beer. No beer, no civilization.

of lager production and the use of single strain pure yeast

Brewers have been making beer for

cultures became the norm. It could well be argued that

millennia (c.13, 000 years as suggested by

these advances resulted in a homogeneity in beer styles

some evidence). However, it is only until

and flavour that has come at the expense of diversity.

relatively recently that we have begun to

This influence has largely remained dominant with the

understand the role that yeast plays in beer production

vast majority of beer made globally being produced with

and alcoholic fermentation. Ancient brewers relied on

single strain cultures.

natural sources of inoculum to start fermentation without knowing what yeast was.

Of course, there are pockets of regional brewing tradition that have not succumbed to the homogeneity in

For a long time brewing was a mix of mystery, magic,

technique and style. The yeast cultures used in traditional

tradition and the yeast cultures used for beer production

Belgian brewing styles for example, can be very complex

were predominantly multi-strain cultures (i.e. yeast

with several saccharomyces, non-saccharomyces and sometimes bacteria present, resulting in a bold and

Yeast sticks we used for skimming and subsequent re-pitching, in similar way to the barbed ring (gjærkrans) used in Norwegian farmhouse brewing

distinct sensory character. So too in the UK a number of older regional breweries still maintain multi-strain ale cultures that often give their beers unique character and a ‘house flavour’. One notable brewing tradition currently gaining a lot of attention is Norwegian farmhouse brewing and the use of Kveik cultures. These diverse cultures are gaining interest and popularity both in terms of unique flavour and aroma contribution, but also for functional traits such as tolerance to high fermentation temperatures (35°C>) and very quick fermentation times (<48 hours). The table below details recent work characterizing the composition of some of these Kveik cultures, which contain a mix of yeasts (and sometimes bacteria) with varying levels of complexity.

brewersjournal.info

September 2019

63


s c i e n c e

C o - fermentation

Colony Morphology Classification Sample

Culture name

S. cerevisiae

Non - Saccharomyces

Bacteria

Kveik 1

Sigmund

3

0

0

Kveik 5

Hornindal

2

0

2

Kveik 7

Granvin

4

0

0

Kveik 9

Ebbegarden

3

0

1

Kveik 11

Lida

3

0

0

Kveik 14

Eitreheim

3

1

0

Kveik 15

Nomes

4

0

0

Kveik 22

Stalljen

3

0

3

Kveik 39

Marina

2

2

0

Kveik 43

Opshaug

4

1

1

Blending strains benefits There are several approaches that could be taken for blending strains, some potential benefits could include:

Above: Colony morphology classification of various Kveik cultures and plating images

Why blend yeasts?

T

he range and diversity of commercially available

u Blending for flavour; being able to

fine tune and perhaps even create new sensory profiles with different combinations of yeast strains.

yeast strains and cultures is growing all the time, the vast majority of which are single strain cultures

that are well characterized. With so much potential and so much choice, blending or mixing strains represents even greater opportunity for brewers to increase diversity in

u Fermentation performance; selecting

strains with specific functional traits to achieve a desired objective which could include temperature tolerance, sugar utilization, flocculation and preventing or saving a stuck fermentation.

flavour and function. One obvious question and potential disadvantage in mixing strains is how a brewer can crop and re-pitch a multi strain culture? This can be difficult depending on the strains used, and cropping a representative sample for subsequent re-pitching becomes very difficult to achieve from a consistency point of view.

u Cost management

Cell concentration and dominance of one strain over the other makes consistent re-pitching problematic,

u Satisfying a continuous market

potentially limiting the blend to a single use pitch.

demand for something “different�

Also, the outcome and results of mixing yeast strains is incredibly hard to predict. Although a lot of yeast strains are very well characterized there is currently limited

64

September 2019

Brewers Journal


C o - fermentation

s c i e n c e

research and information on how they interact with other

CHOOSING BLENDS Of course it is not simply a case of blending or mixing different strains and hoping for the best, it is imperative to give due consideration and understanding to the characteristics of the different strains and consider traits such as:

strains. There is always going to be a degree of trial and error until more information is available.

Potential with wine yeasts

T

here are several notable Belgian yeast cultures that are believed to have their origins in wine. In recent years there have been forays into using

wine yeasts for brewing applications but this is something that has not been widely adopted when seeking more

u Lag phase; differences between strains

novel flavours. In the UK a number of brewers have used wine yeasts in co-fermentation alongside brewing yeasts

u Substrate utilization; what sugar

to achieve a flavour profile and character that could not

spectrum can the yeast(s) ferment?

be achieved when using the brewing yeast alone. For example, Runaway Brewery (Manchester) have produced

u Flocculation; how will the strains

several beers using the Lalvin 71B (Beaujolais) strain in co-

interact?

fermentation with a saison yeast (Belle Saison) in beers such as Farmhouse Pale, Black Grape (including grape

u Flavour; will the strains complement

and be well suited to each other?

juice addition) and Dandelion Ale In these examples (and similar below for Donzoko’s “Graft”) the wine yeast (71B) is pitched first and later

u Killer factor; a highly relevant

the Saison yeast (Belle Saison) is pitched to complete

consideration when using wine yeasts in co-fermentation (see below). Could a killer positive yeast inhibit other yeasts present?

attenuation. This would be an example of sequential inoculation in which the yeasts are not pitched at the same time; the principle being that the wine yeast is used for the primary fermentation to give a distinct character and

u When to add the yeasts; together (co-

flavour but as it does not utilize the tri-saccharide sugar

fermentation), sequential inoculation, secondary fermentation?

maltotriose, the saison yeast (with diastatic activity and thus very high attenuation) is introduced to complete the fermentation and reduce any residual sweetness, while complementing the character of the wine strain. There is potential to explore in this area. Primary considerations to bear in mind are the sugar utilization

Profile - Donzoko “Graft” Rio Azul Brewery - Solaris (NEIPA 6.0% abv) u Lalbrew NE (33%) & Windsor (66%) u NEIPA flavors; stone fruit (peach) and

citrus (orange) u Attenuation of Lalbrew NE

Breweries like Runaway (Manchester, UK) have effectively used wine yeasts in co-fermentation with brewing yeasts to deliver complex and drinkable beers

brewersjournal.info

u Lower Flocculation of Windsor

September 2019

65


s c i e n c e

C o - fermentation

of the wine strain(s) and also whether or not the strain is Killer Positive. 71B was selected for the above beers in part due to the fact that it is a Killer Negative strain.

Looking beyond brewing yeasts

Profile - Donzoko “Graft� u Lalbrew NE (33%) & Windsor (66%) u Beaujolais yeast (71B) & Belle Saison

A

s well as exploring the diverse range of wine yeasts for potential flavour avenues, brewers

u Sequential inoculation

are beginning to look beyond the typical

brewing S.cerevisiae and S.pastorianus yeasts, and

u Primary Fermentation: wine yeast

to consider alternative Saccharomyces sub-species, non-saccharomyces strains, bacteria, and wild strains

u Complete attenuation: Saison

for other sources of microflora that could contribute to beer style and flavour. Strains like S.kudriavzevii and

u Farmhouse style

Torulaspora delbrueckii have some potential for novel flavour production, while acid producing species such as

u Complex and complementary sensory

Lachancea thermotolerans could represent interesting

characteristics

potential for sour beer production. Equally, there is much more to research and trial in terms of bacteria (beyond lactobacillus) and of course wild yeasts like Brettanomyces have been used in brewing for centuries. This could represent a new

achieve bespoke results. The Brewer can utilizing the

approach to brewing fermentation and the microflora

wide spectrum of different strains to express characters in

used. There is no doubt that there is much potential in

a finished beer that could not be achieved by one strain

terms of the sensory and functional contributions of

alone and to create vivid and bold new beers. There is

such weird and wonderful yeasts and bacteria but there

almost no end to potential combinations.

is always the issue of cross contamination to consider,

Closing thoughts

and brewers and suppliers alike have a fundamental responsibility to understand what they are working with and to manage any risks accordingly.

The artist's palette

M

ulti-strain cultures have historically played an important role in brewing, especially in defining regional character and complexity in beer

styles. Brewers are now starting to revisit and rediscover

T

he options and diversity available in yeasts and

some of this complexity, which has arguably been lost in

bacteria could be likened to the concept of an

modern industrial brewing. The growing interest in mixed

artist’s palette; blending and mixing strains to

cultures like the previously mentioned Kveik strains are testament to this growing appetite to seek something different. There is no doubt that there is great potential in blending and co-fermentation, both in terms of creating new and desirable sensory characteristics as well as functional and practical advantages. However, with all the potential options and excitement around mixing yeast strains we must always understand what we are working with, how strains will interact, what characteristics they will exhibit, and ultimately is it safe to handle in the brewery and also for the consumer? There is certainly some risk in pushing the boundaries but also reward, and no doubt there is much more work and research to be done in this area. Opposite is an example recipe using wine and brewing yeast in co-fermentation.

66

September 2019

Brewers Journal


C o - fermentation

s c i e n c e

Recipes

Farmhouse Ale Co-fermentation with Lalbrew® Belle saison & Lalvin® 71B 10hl Step 2

Step 1

malt

Liquor

9.78 Weight of Malt (kg)

Litres Final Kettle Vol

94

Evaporation Rate

Beg Kettle Vol

100

0.06

L:G

3.1

Mashing in Liquor

51

evaporation amount

Lauter

0

6

Sparge Liquor

79

Total Liquor

Extract (kg):

Original Gravity/Plato BME (premised)

0.850

Colour (Lovibond)

5 to 8

Type of malt

130

1,0400

% of Grist

Extract (as-is)

Conversion Temp

145

63.0

Strike Temp

157

69.2

Sparge acid

Sparge Temp

174

78.9

none

10.78 2.06 1.62 14.47

Colour (L)

Colour contribution

0.750

0.800

0.680

3.1

2.0

Raw Spelt

0.140

0.780

0.663

3.0

0.4

Raw Rye

0.11

0.78

0.663

4

0.4

TOTAL

2.8

Calcium Chloride CaCl2 added based on your water profile (roughly 0.07g/l)

°C

Yield

Pilsner Raw Spelt Raw Rye TOTAL

Pilsner

temperature °F

10.0

Font Legend

Temp Gravity/Brewing parameters Water Malts

CaSO4 added based on water profile (roughly 0.1g/l)

Hops Yeast

Step 3

hops Type

Kettle Boil Time: 90 Min

Hop Additions: 4

IBUs: 25

Irish Moss @ 30 min before knock-out: 5 G (1g per 20 l kettle full volume)

alpha-acid

boil time (min)

utilisation %

IBU (%)

IBU contribution

weight of hops (g)

Stickebract

0,110

90.00

0.250

0.850

21.25

73

Hallertau

0,039

0.00

0.100

0.050

1.25

30

Amarillo

0,067

0.00

0.100

0.050

1.25

18

Amarillo

0,067

dry hop

0.100

0.050

1.25

19

TOTAL

139

Step 4

yeast

#1

#2

Added after initial fermentation with the 71B has dropped to 3.5-3 deg plato

Yeast Type/Number

Wine yeast Lalvin® 71B

Yeast Type/Number

Lalbrew® Belle Saison

Fermentation Temp

23°C

Fermentation Temp

22°C

For more information. you can reach us via email at brewing@lallemand.com

brewersjournal.info

notes • Non-filtered

www.lallemandbrewing.com

September 2019

67


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water

s e c to r

What do tougher trade effluent consents mean for the brewing industry? In an era in which the “polluter pays” defines the government’s sociallysanctioned approach to protecting the environment, Richard Manning, UK managing director, 2H Water Technologies, discusses the implications for the brewing industry of new, tougher trade effluent discharge regulations set to come into force over the coming years.

discharge consent levels for each brewery, bottling plant or other facility. Brewing is a water-intensive industry which generates a massive amount of “high strength” wastewater. While the industry has made significant progress in reducing the water-to-beer ratio, it still takes anything from 4-7 barrels of water to produce a single barrel of beer. It doesn’t take a mathematical genius to work out that the majority of water that goes into the brewing process is transformed not into beer but wastewater. Brewery wastewater has to be treated at an onsite

by RICHARD MANNING

or municipal or other offsite wastewater treatment plant (WWTP) before it’s ready to be discharged

F

into the public sewerage or local water

regulators and the public – that is, your customers – are in

binding licence which sets out the conditions - e.g.

full agreement that “polluters” should be made to “pay”.

the volume and “levels” of Suspended Solids and

Over the coming years, brewers can expect to see

other contaminants plus COD (Chemical Oxygen

or a water-intensive industry like brewing,

environment. The treatment process converts the

meeting the ever-changing, ever-tougher

raw wastewater stream into effluent that, importantly,

demands set out in trade effluent discharge

complies with the conditions stipulated in the appropriate

consents is a constant challenge. And it’s not

trade effluent discharge “consent”.

going to get any easier as future regulations

increasingly reflect a world in which governments,

So, what is a Consent? A trade effluent discharge consent is a legally-

a greater degree of both precision and rigour in the

Demand) and BOD (Biological Oxygen Demand) –

methodology stipulated by the UK Environment Agency

trade effluent must meet in order to be dis-charged.

to calculate what will undoubtedly be more exacting

brewersjournal.info

The type of consent required, and application

September 2019

69


s e c to r

water

process, depends on a combination of the process used to discharge trade effluent and its ultimate destination.

demands. There is a very real chance that, over the next few

If a company plans to discharge trade effluent via the

years, a more stringent approach to regulation will see

local Water and Sewage Company (WASC) into the public

breweries (and other production facilities) being placed

sewerage system, under the Water Industry Act (1991)

in a different treatment classification – that is “rebanded”.

it’s the legal responsibility of the company concerned to

In simple terms, being rebanded will probably require a

apply for a licence from the WASC.

different approach to wastewater treatment. For example,

Not all industrial effluent is treated via a WASC.

a brewery which has, until now, operated without an

Some trade effluent is discharged directly into the local

onsite WWTP, may be compelled to bring wastewater

water course – for example, via a soakaway (though

treatment in-house – i.e. find a supplier and then pay

this approach is being discouraged by environmental

for a wastewater treatment plant to be designed, built,

regulators) or after being processed or treated in an

installed and, possibly, managed. All of which, if handled

in-house wastewater or sewage treatment plant. Where

badly, could be a huge drain on time and budget.

any of these options are to be used, the brewer, or facility,

Preparing for the future starts now

concerned must apply directly to the Environment Agency for the licence. Whether issued by a WASC or Environment Agency, the conditions set out in the Consent will be formulated to ensure the effluent will not damage the receiving waterway nor breach UK and European Commission (EC) regulations, notably the EU Industrial Emissions Directive (IED).

I

n an industry with uniquely complex wastewater treatment needs, effective, fully compliant wastewater treatment can’t be achieved in a short period of time,

nor by using an off-the-shelf or packaged solution. If you’re already working with a trusted wastewater

It’s important to bear in mind that failure to secure a

treatment supplier, ask them to help you as-sess whether

licence /consent in advance of discharging any type of

your current plant is capable of delivering operational

waste into the environment can result in prosecution.

requirements at the same time as meeting tougher consents for anything up to 5-7 years in the future.

Non-compliance is not an option

Focus on getting the basics right: for example, by identifying, and planning a replacement strategy for ageing or underperforming equipment that looks like it

A

nd not only because failure to comply may result in fines and legal action. Persistent failure may result in a brewery being shut down, endangering

will be incapable of adapting to meet tougher consents. Think ahead: even equipment that’s working well now may not offer the flexibility, or be capable of upgrading,

not only jobs and profitability but the company’s

to deal with increases or changes in production over the

reputation for social and environmental responsibility.

coming years.

And, remember I mentioned the relationship between

And, finally, if you think you’re in danger of being

compliance with trade effluent discharge Consents and

rebanded or, for some other reason will need to build an

the demands of the EU Industrial Emissions Directive

entire onsite wastewater treatment plant, now’s the time

(IED)? Regardless of what happens over the coming

to start talking to your wastewater treatment supplier.

months, the IED is here to stay.

References

Of course, the brewing industry is well used to accommodating, or adapting, to new or revised environmental regulation. But fine-tuning their existing wastewater treatment plant or processes may no longer

u https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1991/56/

be enough.

contents

There really is no place – or time – for complacency. I fully expect to see instances in which breweries that

u https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/

were previously capable of complying with the terms of

waste-water-treatment-works-treatment-monitoring-

their Consent will find their existing wastewater treatment

and-compliance-limits/waste-water-treatment-works-

plant and processes aren’t up to the challenge of meeting

treatment-monitoring-and-compliance-limits

individually tailored, and potentially far more stringent,

70

September 2019

Brewers Journal


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PakTech’s easy to apply, carry and remove packaging handles are the smart choice for your packaging needs. They are made with 100% Post-Consumer Recycled (PCR) resin and are recyclable. In 2018, 102,592,428 milk jugs were kept out of landfills and repurposed as PakTech handles.

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Brewers Journal


c l a s s i f i e d

quality assurance

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recruitment

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TRAINING

Fermentis is an expert in the art of fermentation. Our active dry yeasts and yeast derivatives cover almost all professional requirements: from safeguarding production to expressing sensory characteristics. Discover our products on www.fermentis.com Contact us at fermentis@lesaffre.com

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Bringing Quality Control to the Brewery Suppliers of analytical testing products and services www.qclscientific.com +44 (0)1342 820820

YEAST Cont'd

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Water Management Solutions that protect your brand, your equipment & our environment. AFCO’s Water Management Specialists are proven partners and solutions providers. Our Certified Water Technologists work with you to maximize success and minimize the impact on our environment.

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brewersjournal.info

September 2019

73


date s

&

e v e nt s

events 2 October 2019 - 5 October 2019

Bedford Beer & Cider Festival Corn Exchange, St Pauls Sq, Bedford www.northbeds.camra.org.uk 3 October 2019 - 6 October 2019

indy man beer con Victoria Baths, Manchester www.indymanbeercon.co.uk 4 October 2019 - 5 October 2019

Ascot Racecourse Beer Festival On Saturday 14th September, the LBA will descending on

Ascot Racecourse, High St, www.ascotbeerfest.org.uk

the Fuller’s Griffin Brewery for the return of the LBA Beer Festival. Showcasing over 50 of London’s best breweries the

10 October 2019

festival reinforces the depth and breadth of the London beer

Brewers Lectures Bristol

scene.

Watershed, Bristol lectures.brewersjournal.info 5 September 2019 - 8 September 2019

leeds international beer festival Leeds Town Hall, Leeds www.leedsbeer.com 14 September 2019

lba festival Griffin Brewery, London www.londonbrewers.org 18 September 2019 - 21 September 2019

york beer & cider festival Knavesmire, Tadcaster Road, York, www.yorkbeerfestival.org.uk 26 September 2019 - 29 September 2019

falcon beer festival The Falcon, Huntingdon falconhuntingdon.co.uk 28 September 2019

74

September 2019

17 October 2019 - 19 October 2019

Great Welsh Beer & Cider Festival National Cricket Training Centre, Cardiff www, gwbcf.info 18 October 2019 - 20 October 2019

Spa Valley Railway Beer Festival Spa Valley Railway, West Station www.spavalleyrailway.co.uk 31 October 2019 - 2 November 2019

carlisle beer festival The Venue Carlisle, 7 Portland Pl, Carlisle www.solway.camra.org.uk 22 November 2019 - 23 November 2019

otley beer festival Otley Rugby Club, Cross Green, Otley, West Yorkshire, www.otleybeerfestival.co.uk 28 November 2019

CAMDEN OCTOBERFEST

brewers congress

Electric Ballroom, London www.camdenoktoberfest.com

One Great George Street, Westminster, London congress.brewersjournal.info

Brewers Journal


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