Sea Nova Scotia 2023

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Special Feature: Pictou

6 Pictou’s party is just beginning

The town’s historic waterfront on Nova Scotia’s Northumberland shore is celebrating two momentous events: the 250th anniversary of the landing of the Ship Hector and the 150th anniversary of its incorporation.

12 In a big family

Thousands from across North America will flock to Nova Scotia’s North Shore to look for their Scottish roots. Pictou is ready to help.

On our cover

Ride the wave of adventures waiting for you in Nova Scotia this summer.

Tourism Nova Scotia

Adam Cornick

17

Begin your adventure

5 Welcome

70 Hike & dine

74 A new definition of hospitality

76 Tour & sip

81 Stepping out

Explore

17 The centre of the action

Halifax Regional Municipality

26 Cultural fusion

Yarmouth, Acadian Shores & Annapolis Valley

39 Heritage and natural splendour abound

Central Nova & North Shore

50 Wild thing

Eastern Shore

54 Living history

South Shore

66 Marvel and delight on Cape Breton

Cape Breton

NSITEN Understanding the authentic

experience

3 Message from Robert Bernard

Welcome to Mi’kma’ki

6 Creating connections through tourism

Learning through cultural exchange

7 Authentic differences

What’s true to Mi’kmaw culture

8 Reclaming culinary heritage

Foods and flavours

10 Sharing the knowledge

The importance of elder and youth connections

11 What’s in a name

Reclaiming original names

12 Sustainable tourism

Protecting and sharing our sacred spaces

13 The real rhythm of Mi’kmaw music and dance

Insert: Passing on history and tradition

14 From petrogylphs to public works of art

The legacy of Indigenous creativity

Photo:

/

Destination Cape Breton Association

Tourism

Nova Scotia / Jami Savage

Publisher

Fred Fiander

Editor-in-Chief

Crystal Murray

Senior Editor/Copy Chief

Trevor J. Adams

Contributing Editor

Jodi DeLong

Vice President of Business Development

Linda Gourlay • lgourlay@saltscapes.com

Account Executives

Susan Giffin

Pam Hancock

Senior Director Creative Design and Production

Shawn Dalton

Graphic Designers

Roxanna Boers

Andrezza Nascimento

Zoey Zsingor

Production Coordinator

Nicole McNeil

Production and Design Assistant

Kathleen Hoang

PRODUCED BY METRO GUIDE PUBLISHING

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2882 Gottingen St., Halifax, N.S. B3K 3E2 Tel. 902-420-9943 Fax 902-422-4728

Email: publishers@metroguide.ca

No part of this publication may be reproduced without written consent of the publisher. While every effort has been made to ensure accuracy, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur.

All non-credited photography is either supplied or sourced from a stock image bank.

PJILA’SI! Welcome

Welcometo Nova Scotia, or in the Mi’kmaw language, Mi’kma’ki. You are visiting the ancestral and unceded territory of the Mi’kmaq, who have lived in this place since long before colonization. We hope that while you are here you will honour the treaties of peace and friendship as you explore this place.

Nova Scotia, like much of North America, has a complicated history of European settlement, which had innumerable and ongoing impacts on Indigenous populations. This is the place where Canada’s first Scottish settlers made a new home for themselves, many of them leaving difficult lives on the other side of the Atlantic, only to find new hardships when they arrived. It’s well documented that the majority of these first settlers survived, thrived, and moved to other parts of what eventually became known as Canada because of the shared knowledge and wisdom of the First Nations.

This summer, in the town of Pictou on the North Shore of Nova Scotia, visitors from all over the world will celebrate the 250th anniversary of the landing of the Ship Hector. It left Loch Broom, Scotland in 1773 with nearly 200 souls on board. Not all survived the crossing. Those who did reshaped our province.

While thousands are expected to share in the celebrations in Pictou this summer and take part in the official ceremonies on the weekend of Sept. 16, they will connect to their own origin stories and try to retrace the steps of their ancestors.

But more important is the opportunity to learn about how hundreds of years of colonialism has had generational impact on Indigenous people. As a Scottish descendent, it’s my responsibility to learn about a history adjacent to my own.

It begins in a time when settlers took their first steps on this soil (the French were here earlier, in 1632), the implementation of the reserve system that confined most Native people to unproductive tracts of land, and the residential school system that didn’t end in Nova Scotia until 1967, and finally to the work of reconciliation as we unravel the previous centuries of discrimination.

Reconciliation has become an important aspect of tourism in Nova Scotia and across this great country. I’m excited about the important role that authentic Indigenous tourism plays in the journey to reconciliation. The people who know this land best create the most incredible experiences.

At the heart of this book on page 42, you’ll find a special section from the Nova Scotia Indigenous Tourism Enterprise Network. It’s unveiling seven strategies in Indigenous tourism reclamation work that will transform the visitor experience in this province. While there are already many amazing events and experiences in First Nations communities this summer, it’s exciting and inspiring to watch how these personal encounters will evolve as they go deeper into Native history, teachings, and storytelling.

The abbreviation for the tourism network is NSITEN, the Mi’kmaw word for “understand” — the foundation of future relationships.

We have six tourism regions in Nova Scotia. In this guide, we share just a few of the highlights in each area. We invite you to explore on your own and discover the endless delights of our food, music, landscape, waterways, and hideaways. As you do, please remember that even as a guest, we all play a role as keepers of this land for next generations.

Travel is the best education. I hope what you learn is that you are visiting one of the most special places on earth. Wela’lin — thank you.

Enjoy!

Crystal Murray

Pictou’s party is just beginning

The town’s historic waterfront on Nova Scotia’s Northumberland shore is celebrating two momentous events: the 250th anniversary of the landing of the Ship Hector and the 150th anniversary of its incorporation

By Alec Bruce

Photography by Steve Smith, VisionFire

Fewcommunities get a chance to commemorate a seminal event in any given year. This year, Pictou — a town of 3,200, charmingly nestled against the warm, blue waters of the Northumberland Strait — gets two.

“2023 is a significant year for Pictou, with two monumental anniversaries: the 250th anniversary of the landing of the Ship Hector and the 150th anniversary of civic incorporation,” explains Mayor Jim Ryan. “Over 20 community organizations are partnering with the town to host events and activities to celebrate.”

With two critical public gathering spaces, Market Wharf and the deCoste Centre for Arts and Creativity, under development, the town will transform the former laundromat waterfront

property into a Pictou 2023 event site from June 17 to Sept. 17.

Here, a summerlong schedule of musical performances, festivals, heritage events, markets, and more, will play out. Organizers say it may be too soon to predict the sheer numbers who’ll crowd happily into the historic downtown, but words like “unprecedented” and “epic” aren’t far from their lips.

“Amenities will include an 8,500-square-foot event tent to seat over 350,” Ryan says. “There’ll be a beer garden featuring locally made beverages. In fact, the town has issued an Expression of Interest to local breweries and operators for proposals.”

What’s more, there’ll be vendor kiosks highlighting Nova Scotian products, services, tourism,

and recreational experiences. There’ll be art installations and play areas for kids. For the foot-weary who simply want to relax amid the festivities, there’ll be Adirondack chairs, hammocks, and picnic tables.

“Few communities in Canada can boast of having two such significant anniversaries,” says Troy Greencorn, executive director of deCoste Centre, which is undergoing a major expansion and renovation this year. “We are assembling a collective of partners to stage over 30 concerts and major events over the summer.”

The focus, of course, will be the beautifully restored Hector, with volunteers tending the ship. The new Hector Interpretive Centre, wharf, marina, and boardwalks will complement the experience.

The Hector is “wood, but covered in epoxy and fibreglass cloth, so completely watertight,” says Vern Shea, manager of the restoration project. “There will be composite material on

the top sides. To keep the traditional look, there’ll be Douglas fir sheathing on the deck tops. Down below, the decks will be rigged just like 1773. We’re going to have a little reception area for, say, a corporate sponsor who wants to have a meeting on board or go for a sail. There’ll also be the new crew accommodations.”

The moves are a no-brainer, adds Greencorn. “As a harbour town, the waterfront is the perfect gathering place,” he says. “The (event tent), surrounded by a welcoming community gathering space, reflects a great vision and plan for Pictou’s waterfront, and we are confident this summer’s events

With civic celebrations aplenty, Pictou’s waterfront will be abuzz throughout 2023. DeCoste Centre

will build momentum for further development and events.”

At press time, the event schedule was a work in progress. Check pictou2023.com to see what’s new. Meanwhile, here’s a sneak peek (including some old favourites).

McCulloch Centre 2023 Exhibit, May 1 to Oct. 31. This spring, summer, and fall the McCulloch Centre and Genealogy Centre will feature a special exhibit showcasing three anniversaries: The landing of the Ship Hector’s 250th Anniversary (showcasing pioneers and their ancestors), the Town of Pictou’s 150th anniversary, 150 years through photography, and McCulloch Centre’s 50th anniversary — 50 years through photography.

Pictou Harbourview Market. This weekly artisan market showcases Nova Scotian talent up close and personal throughout the summer, with fresh-baked goods, plants, wood crafts, stained class, and more.

New Horizons Hector 2023, June 21. New Horizons 50+ Club welcomes Pictou Landing First Nation students. This event will take place in the morning.

Summer Solstice Ceilidh, June 21. Presented by the Pictou Celtic Arts Society, hosted at McCulloch House Museum & Genealogy Centre, this features live music, face painting, a bouncy castle, ice cream, and more.

Pictou Lobster Carnival, July 7 to 9. Started in 1934, this three-day festival has become a signature event in Nova

Scotia. Celebrating the end of the lobster fishing season in the area, it’s rich in Maritime culture and music. The event features musical entertainment, beer garden, Mardi Gras parade, children’s parade, antique car show, derby races, lobster boat races, midway rides, lobster dinners, fireworks, and other activities.

Pictou 150 Anniversary Celebration, Aug. 8. Pictou celebrates 150 years of incorporation on Natal Day with live entertainment, children’s activities, food, and fun.

Genealogy Conference, Sept. 9 to 10. Ship Hector Descendants is hosting this genealogy and history conference, beginning with a keynote speaker and including a day of lecture-style talks and presentations, and a second day of tours and small group activities.

Loch Broom Log Church Service, Sept. 10. Rev. James Drummond MacGregor arrived in Pictou County from Scotland in July of 1786, and on Sept. 17 of that same year, the first session of the First Presbyterian Church of Pictou and New Glasgow was convened. The log church at Loch Broom was constructed on the site of that first service as a commemorative replica in 1973.

Hector Regatta and Bluenose II visit, Sept. 14 to 17. The Bluenose II will sail into Pictou Harbour to celebrate the Ship Hector 250-year anniversary. Come aboard for a visit and maybe even a sail. Sail boats from around the region will fill the harbour as they participate in a weekend-long regatta.

Ship Hector Tours, Sept. 15 to 17. See the great unveiling, the first opportunity to see the restoration progress on the Ship Hector. Visitors will be able to step aboard the ship, which has been on blocks in the yard, and experience the below deck atmosphere. Walk along the newly finished upper decks. Members of the restoration team will be on hand to explain the process of the restoration. The relaunch of the Hector is planned for 2024 when all components and propulsion systems are in place.

Descendants and Friends Banquet, Sept. 15. Save the date! After a welcome from a Scottish bagpiper, enjoy local, award-winning musicians John “Spyder” MacDonald and Ship Hector descendant Amelia Parker, who will perform “Bless the Ship Hector.”

Gaelic Cultural Events, Sept. 16. Come take part in Gaelic cultural events like milling, frolic, storytelling, and Gaelic workshops.

2023 Passenger Descendants Reunion, Sept. 17. The Ship Hector Passenger Descendants (and friends) Reunion.

Hector 250 Tattoo, Sept. 17. Don’t miss this spectacular show featuring singers, dancers, pipers, and fiddlers in a pageant of Celtic and Indigenous culture.

Left: Loch Broom Log Church. Right: Ship Hector tours. Bottom: Pictou Lobster Carnival.

In a big family

Thousands from across North America will flock to Nova Scotia’s North Shore to look for their Scottish roots. Pictou is ready to help

By Alec Bruce

Forthose fascinated by their origins in Pictou, wondering if their ancestors really did survive the “First Great Scottish Passage” across the fierce Atlantic on the sailing ship Hector to replant their family trees in Nova Scotia, there’s no better year than this to find out. And, as the 250th commemorations get underway, there’s no

better person to ask than local genealogist Brenda Hutchinson.

She’s a pleasant, studious woman who has made tracing the “Hector connection” for hundreds, if not thousands, of folks across North America her passion since 2015. “I started the Hector Descendants Project as a retirement project for myself,” she says. “I was volun-

teering at McCulloch House Museum & Genealogy Centre, and I thought it would be a good idea to try and make sense of the passenger list.”

Now, she says, “I’ve been in touch with people from California to Florida, from Oregon, Vancouver, Prince George, Winnipeg, Edmonton, Toronto — everywhere really — and they’re

Ashton Creative Design

booking their hotels and making it a priority to be here this summer.”

She and McCulloch House will be ready.

The museum’s special exhibit showcases three anniversaries in 2023: the 250th of the landing of the Hector, the 150th of Pictou’s incorporation, and the centre’s own 50th. Established in 1973 partly to commemorate 200th anniversary of the ship’s arrival, it already hosts a range of temporary exhibitions focusing on local history and culture during the summer months. More durably, perhaps, it’s an archival facility and research centre.

Today, says its website: “This abundance of archival material includes hundreds of personal and corporate documents as well as family histories, newspapers on microfilm, vital statistics, and much more. These resources combined with an extensive local history library provide visitors, students and academics alike with the opportunity to deeply explore the heritage of Eastern Canada.”

Or you could just ask Hutchinson.

“I’ve made some pretty good progress in terms of tracing people forward in time,” she says. “Usually, genealogists go backwards in time. So, I’m able to help people who’ve already gone backwards in time, kind of match them up

with what I’ve done forward in time — to confirm a lineage or not. In the process of doing this, I’ve had to reach out to people. So, I developed a website and a Facebook page, and I have a quarterly newsletter … I keep in touch with people.”

Hutchinson will also be front and centre this year in Pictou. She’s organizing a genealogy and history conference, set to include a full day of lectures and presentations, plus a day of tours and small-group activities, on Sept. 9 and 10. She’s also behind some Hector-related readings by local authors Ann Stevens, Pam Edwards, Jackie Halsey, and Margie MacKay on Sept. 14. Then there’s the Hector descendants’ big event: the Descendants and Friends Banquet on Sept. 15, with musicians John MacDonald and descendant Amelia Parker, who will perform “Bless the Ship Hector.”

“A lot of people visit Pictou because they think they may have a connection to the Hector,” says Hutchinson. “Whether or not they do, they may have roots in the community anyway. They are thrilled to know that they descend from a Hector passenger. I’m sure there’s some who are disappointed if we can’t confirm it. But there’s some that are still working away at it.” She laughs, “I have a friend who descends from 18 passengers. Most people are happy to know they have just one.”

Learn more: pictou2023.com

Harvest Greets the Holidays

Brenda Hutchinson has traced the “Hector connection” for hundreds, if not thousands, of people. Submitted Steve Smith, VisionFire

From now until Oct. 31, 2023, we invite you to share your favourite east coast vacation pix and story in the 2023 Subaru and Saltscapes Staycation Contest!

You too could win a brand new Subaru two-year lease like our 2022 Subaru Staycation winner.

GRAND PRIZE WINNER

4 great categories

Food, glorious food (and drink)

All fore for nature

Whether it’s a city cultural and culinary getaway with your sweetie, a relaxing and remote cottage rendezvous, rediscovering a great annual festival, a long overdue party with friends and family, or going for a beach hike at a trail you’ve always wanted to visit…

Visit saltscapes.com for complete contest rules and to learn more about great 2023 prizes from our Atlantic Canadian tourism partners!

Thank you for celebrating Canada’s east together in 2023!

Splish splash at the beach Fabulous festival fun

Contest closes October 31 | Visit saltscapes.com for details

Matt Wilne , GM, Steele Subaru, Halifax contest winner, Peggy Dominie, and Darren Blinn, Subaru Canada Atlantic manager.

A Walk on the North Shore Brackley Beach, PEI

More IIHS TOP SAFETY PICK+ awards than any other brand since 2013.

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July 11-16, 2023

halifaxjazzfestival.ca

NOVA SCOTIA’S BIGGEST MUSIC FESTIVAL

Six days of music on the Halifax Waterfront & stages across the HRM, featuring FREE daily concerts and more!

The centre of the action

By

In Halifax, summer starts with a drum’s staccato rap, a skirl of bagpipes, the cannon’s roar, and timeless pomp and pageantry: the Royal Nova Scotia International Tattoo (June 30 to July 3) returns to Scotiabank Centre for another season! The world’s largest annual indoor show of its type, the 2.5-hour event spotlights military and civilian performers from around the world. The 2023 theme is “Oceans,” celebrating the province’s rich nautical heritage. The cast is set to include the German Air Force Band, the British Royal Marine band, Australia’s Brisbane Boys’ College Pipe Band, and the Tattoo Highland Dance Team.

Up next, the Peggy’s Cove Area Festival of the Arts (July 5 to 16) is a must for art aficionados, and a perfect complement to your Halifax-based

“Most Feel-Good Shop in Nova Scotia”

The largest, most versatile collection of crystals and tumblestones on the east coast. Plus, tarot/oracle cards, sterling jewelry, pendulums, incense, salt lamps, singing bowls, candles, nuwati teas, imports and more. Many gi ed psychics, numerology, astrology, Aura Scans and dry salt treatments (Halotherapy Booth).

Positive Energy in Abundance!

In Atlantic Canada’s biggest city, history and the hottest new events march hand in hand, offering an endless array for visitors in any season

Trevor J. Adams

The Royal Nova Scotia International Tattoo returns in June.

day trips. Centred in the eponymous fishing village and sprawling out to the surrounding communities, the festival showcases local artistic talent, with studio tours, sales, and more. The highlight is always Paint Peggy’s Cove

From July 7 to 9, dozens of artists will

set up around the village for a celebration of plein air painting, with the works available for sale in a nearby yurt as soon as the paint dries.

July also sees Halifax host two of its most beloved annual festivals. This year’s edition of the Halifax Jazz Festival (July 11 to 16) showcases local talents and big-name touring acts like multiple-Juno-winning singer/songwriter Feist (July 11) and Seattle indie-folk stars Fleet Foxes (July 16). Catch the action on Lower Water Street at the festival tent, which also hosts free daily matinee concerts.

Denise Sooley

Unbound Media

The Halifax Jazz Festival and the Peggy’s Cove Area Festival of the Arts are summertime favourites.

And mark your calendars for the Halifax Pride Festival (July 20 to 30). The East Coast’s biggest queer celebration features family events, educational sessions, live entertainment galore, and a boisterous parade.

For another beloved rite of summer, join the locals for a Hfx Wanderers FC (Apr. 19 to Sept. 30) soccer match. Head to bustling Spring Garden Road on Canadian Premier League game day and visit just about any pub before kickoff,

and you’ll instantly make dozens of new friends. Join the singing, chanting throng as they make their way to the intimate Wanderers Grounds on nearby South Park Street.

The Halifax Busker Festival (Aug. 2 to 7) is sure to draw a crowd too, with waterfront stages hosting free performances by street performers from around the world. See hilarious and death-defying acts by acrobats, illusionists, magicians, and entertainers for all sorts.

There’s plenty for theatregoers this year. Point Pleasant Park hosts theatre al fresco with Shakespeare by the Sea

Look WHO’S BACK

The Marblehead to Halifax Ocean Race returns for its 40th installment, as yachters race from Massachusetts to Nova Scotia in a competition that has run intermittently for 118 years. The race begins on July 9, with the frontrunners likely to arrive in Halifax about 29 hours later. Point Pleasant Park offers a good vantage of the harbour-entrance finish line.

Hands-On,

Discover Atlantic Canada’s Premier Science Centre.

1215 Lower Water St. Halifax, NS www.thediscoverycentre.ca

Trevor MacMillan / Halifax Wanderers Discover Halifax

Discover Halifax / Scott Munn

Clockwise: Summer highlights include the Halifax Pride Festival, the Halifax Busker Festival, and Hfx Wanderers FC home matches.

(July to September) and Scotiabank Centre welcomes Broadway in Halifax, with touring productions of The Book of Mormon (July 18, 19) and Come From Away (Nov. 15, 16).

As summer wanes, Halifax Fringe Festival (Aug. 31 to Sept. 10) sprawls over multiple venues, with 55+ produc-

tions mounting 350+ individual performances. And then you just have a chance to catch your breath before Neptune Theatre’s new season opens with The Play That Goes Wrong (Sept. 26 to Oct. 22), a farce featuring Jonathan Torrens. (You likely know the local talent from his roles on the hit Canadian comedies Trailer Park Boys, Letterkenny, and Shoresy).

For even more Canadian acting talent, check out Fin Atlantic International Film Festival (Sept. 14 to 21). The eight-day cinema extravaganza always punches above its weight, connecting audiences with established and emerging filmmakers and screenings and events around the city.

YADA, YADA, yada

When the Great Outdoors Comedy Festival announced plans to come to Halifax for the first time, tickets for the Aug. 11 show at the Garrison Grounds were instant hot commodities, and it’s little wonder why: comedy legend Jerry Seinfeld is set to headline. The box-office sold-out months ago, but you may find tickets with (legitimate, of course) online resellers.

Bigstock/Debby Wong

COME ON over

Selling 100 million records over her 40-year career, Canadian Shania Twain is the best-selling female artists in music history. And on June 12, the Queen of Country Pop makes a rare visit to Halifax, performing at Scotiabank Centre.

Family matters

Halifax is known as one of the country’s most family friendly cities, with CleverCanadian.ca recently ranking it 13th overall. “It … has plenty of parks,” gush the reviewers. “It’s safe and the community is amazing.” A host of others agree, with Trip Advisor and Today’s Parent also hailing it as one of the country’s top family destinations.

Variety is the key. The city has something for any interest, in any season. There’s a vibrant live sports scene, as major-junior hockey’s Halifax Mooseheads and the National Lacrosse League’s Halifax Thunderbirds both play their home games at Scotiabank Centre fall through spring. It also hosts live music and other events year-round.

When foul weather looms, head to the Discovery Centre on Lower Water Street. This hands-on science centre

is chockablock with interactive exhibits and displays — learning disguised as fun to engage young minds. Nearby is the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21. A former immigration shed, it’s considered “Canada’s Ellis Island” — the entry point for thousands of newcomers in the 20th century, plus landfall for thousands who fought in the world wars. Now fully restored, it’s the site of Atlantic Canada’s only national museum, telling the story of the people who built our country.

Tourism Nova Scotia / Aaron MacKenzie Fraser

Tourism Nova Scotia

Above: Living history at Pier 21. Right: Family fun at the Discovery Centre.

Exciting EXPLORATIONS

If you’re on a tight schedule, or just feel like letting somebody else take the helm for the day, considering a tour to help you get the most from your visit.

From kayaks to cruisers, numerous operators depart from both Fisherman’s Cove and the Halifax waterfront, offering guided explorations that let you be as relaxed or active as you choose. Popular offerings include Ambassatours’s Harbour Hopper, an amphibious vehicle exploring the downtown by land and sea, and the Tall Ship Silva, a spacious three-masted schooner offering dinner and party cruises. Various operators will

even take you to visit Halifax’s uninhabited harbour islands.

Or head inland. Many tour companies peddle craft-beer and wine themed excursions, cycling and hiking tours, excursions to must-see destinations like historic Peggy’s Cove and Lunenburg, art and history themed itineraries, and various customizable options.

In summer, representatives from many tours take bookings on the waterfront boardwalk, or Google “Halifax tours” to discover lots of options.

And just a couple blocks north on the waterfront, is the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, with fascinating exhibits on the Titanic, the world wars, pirates, and all things nautical. And just a short stroll uphill on Hollis Street, the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia features a dynamic variety of exhibitions, a huge permanent collection of work by acclaimed folk artist Maud Lewis, and summer day camps for budding young talents.

On a fair-weather day, Halifax Citadel National Historic Site is an ideal sum-

mer adventure. The grounds are open year-round, and from May to October, you can tour the fortress, travel back in time with historic animators, and explore Canada’s martial history at the Army Museum. The huge hill overlooking the downtown is perfect for picnicking. Nearby, Summer Street borders the verdant splendour of the Halifax Public Gardens and is home to the Museum of Natural History, which has permanent and visiting exhibits on topics like Nova Scotian wildlife and human anatomy.

Tourism Nova Scotia / Acorn Art & Photography

Tourism Nova Scotia / Murphy Tours

Explore the city’s military history at Halifax Citadel National Historic Site.

Journey across the harbour to Dartmouth for more family friendly experiences. Dartmouth Common is another great spot to picnic or just let the kids frolic for a bit as you soak in the seaside vistas, and nearby on Newcastle Street is the Dartmouth Heritage Museum, where the Toys Through

Time exhibition will fascinate and appall children (watch their face when you explain that a wooden cup and ball was once as diverting as Minecraft). The museum’s operations also include Quaker House, open seasonally on Ochterloney Street. The historic home tells the story of a group of whalers who settled in the community in the 18th century.

Fisherman’s Cove is nearby in Eastern Passage, a 10-minute drive from downtown Dartmouth. The quaintly restored 200-year-old fishing village offers a peek into the past with a variety of modern activities and family events for the entire family. Stroll the picturesque boardwalk and visit the many shops and eateries boasting delicious food, Maritime crafts, local paintings, unique folk art, and souvenirs.

DRINKS WITH friends

For craft-drink enthusiasts, Christmas arrives on Aug. 10 to 12, when the Halifax Seaport Cider & Beerfest returns to the Cunard Centre on the Halifax waterfront. Dozens of vendors from around the world pour an array of beers and ciders, including many that are typically unavailable in Nova Scotia.

Jean Hughes, Bonnie Baillie, Judy Gordon, Colleen Underwood

Left: Time travel at the Dartmouth Heritage Museum. Right: Fisherman’s Cove is a short drive from the downtown.

Tourism Nova Scotia

/ Joyce Liu

Dartmouth Heritage Museum

Quaker House

Cultural fusion

Rich in history, natural splendor, and traditional cuisine, relax and ramble by the sea this summer

By Alec Bruce

What’s hot

Discover Acadian joie de vivre! Unplug and connect on the Clare Acadian Shore in 2023. Festival acadien de Clare (July 29 to Aug. 5, and Aug. 15), is the world’s oldest Acadian festival — celebrating culture and heritage since 1955. Highlights include a Grou Tyme music concert, dinner theatre, Cajun night, and Tintamarre noise parade.

After a three-year hiatus, Gran Fondo Baie Sainte-Marie is back (Sept. 9 to 10). It’s quickly grown to become the largest event of its sort in Atlantic Canada, with 1,000 cyclists participating in 2019. This Gran Fondo will appeal to recreational riders looking for an epic ride, those who like to tour by bike, and avid racers. In 2023, the 128-kilometre Gran

route will challenge experienced riders, while intermediate and novice cyclists may prefer the 67-kilometre Medio or 35-kilometre Piccolo rides. Riders will navigate rolling inland roads along lakes and rivers, passing by towering wooden churches along the panoramic coastal route that hugs Baie Sainte-Marie. After the ride, enjoy fresh lobster, barbecue pork, or a vegetarian option.

Discover the night sky in all its glory at the Deep Sky Observatory. A 25-minute drive from Yarmouth, the outdoor viewing platform and indoor three-metre dome lets you peer into deep space. The region is so perfectly suited for viewing the night sky that the International Starlight Foundation designated it North America’s first Starlight Reserve.

Charlene d’Entremont

Fans celebrate Gran Fondo riders.

Tourism Nova Scotia / Jake Brenner

Cape Saint Mary Lighthouse Park in Clare.

Rest, Relax & Recharge at The Ridge Campground

Located 5 minutes from Highway 101 at exit 26, near the beautiful town of Digby; The Ridge offers grassy tenting sites, spacious pull-thru RV sites, and camping cabins.

Pool, Hiking Trails, Theme Weekends, Camp Store, Coin Laundry & More!

2561 Ridge Rd, Digby NS 902-245-5600

theridgecampground@outlook.com

Book online: www.ridgecampground.ca

Debra Howard-Quilts by the Bay-One Square at a Time Join us on fb every week for our live “Friday Night Frenzy”

Jake Brenner (@jakesescapes)

Left: Gran Fondo. Right: Deep Sky Observatory. Charlene d’Entremont

Overlooking beautiful Pubnico Harbour, Le Village historique acadien de la Nouvelle-Écosse offers an immersive Acadian experience. Discover the heart, life, and work of the Acadians in the early 1900s. When you’re done, head over to the Argyle Township Court House & Gaol, Canada’s oldest

standing courthouse. In 2005, the building became a National Historic Site. The Firefighters’ Museum of Nova Scotia in Yarmouth is another must-see attraction. Then explore the rugged landscape and take in the breathtaking views and sunsets at Cape Forchu Lighthouse, the second-most photographed in Nova Scotia.

Firefighters Museum of Nova Scotia / Renée Dease

Top: Le Village historique acadien de la Nouvelle-Écosse. Right: Cape Forchu has guided travellers for decades. Bottom right: The Firefighters’ Museum of Nova Scotia.

Tourism Nova Scotia / @daveyandsky Tourism

New for 2023, SeaRoots is an oceanside seafood culinary experience in the heart of the Acadian shore. Chefs Shane Robicheau and Paul Thimot will pamper you for more than four hours with an intimate six-course dinner featuring foraging on the beach, a sit-down multicourse seafood feast, and local beverage pairings, then a campfire with local musicians.

The new Cape Saint Mary Lighthouse Park in Clare offers visitors panoramas of dramatic cliffs and breathtaking

sunsets over St. Mary’s Bay and the Gulf of Maine. A three-minute drive away is scenic Mavillette, a two-kilometre beach

@charlene d’Entremont

@charlene d’Entremont

Experience SeaRoots with Chef Shane Robicheau.

Brier Island’s Original and #1 Chosen Whale Watch Dedicated to Research & Education Since

backed with fragile marram grass-covered dunes and boardwalks. Why not learn to surf while you’re there? Lessons, surfboard and wetsuit rentals are available for beginners.

Old friends

A favourite with both locals and visitors, the Beaux Vendredis (June 30 to Sept. 8) seafood suppers at the Belliveau Cove waterfront serve affordable (and delicious) lobster, snow crab, and clams, or seafood chowder, paired with live local music.

Fine eateries, craft beer, and distilleries abound in Yarmouth & Acadian Shores: Boatskeg Distilling Co., Heritage Brewing Company, Rudder’s Seafood Restaurant & Brew Pub, and Tusket Falls Brewing. There’s Wild Roots, a

Brier Island Lodge & Grandview Dining Room

Nova Scotia Touriam / Kyler McGregor

Dennis Jarvis

Above: Mavillette Beach. Left: Cape Saint Mary Lighthouse.

full-service neighbourhood restaurant in Tusket with local ingredients at the forefront, and lobster at Rudder’s Seafood Restaurant & Brewpub in Yarmouth. Enjoy râpure (AKA “rappie pie,” a traditional Acadian gratedpotato casserole) in Pubnico at Red Cap Restaurant. Stay at Auberge Thon Jeune, a charming, relaxing, boutique hotel overlooking the water in Wedgeport and the perfect place for an overnight getaway.

Don’t miss Inner Oaks Holistic Approach Experiences in Quinan, a

Edelweiss Inn Nova Scotia

French Acadian village in Yarmouth County, about 25 minutes inland from Yarmouth, for natural ways to appreciate Mother Earth.

Meet local artists and shop local at the farmers and art markets in picturesque Belliveau Cove. Art Markets: Sunday, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., July 2 to Sept. 3. Farmers markets: Saturday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., May 27 to Sept. 30.

The Villages of Mountain Gap Resort

Dig for clams. The Acadians (and the Mi’kmaq before them) have expertly dug delicious clams along the tidewashed shores of St. Mary’s Bay for centuries. Get your hands in the sand and learn this age-old skill from a local expert. Reservations required: phone 902-769-2345.

Rendez-vous de la Baie Welcome Centre. On the campus of Université

European Country B&B style inn with forest trails and on site restaurant featuring German Comfort food and Canadian classics. Located in the heart of Annapolis Valley near Middleton just 1km from the Bay of Fundy.

Ryan Williams

Above: Art Market in Belliveau Cove. Right: Clamming on the Atlantic coast.

Charlene d’Entremont

Sainte-Anne, learn about the fascinating history and culture of the Acadians of Clare/Baie Sainte-Marie in the interpretive centre. Then take a walk on the coastal and wooded trails in Le Petit Bois.

Last words

Check out the Quinan Glamping Dome, where the aim is to deliver a private camping experience without sacrificing

the comforts of home. Bonus: No setup or teardown. Simply show up.

Finally, don’t leave these shores without stopping by Sandford Drawbridge located at Sandford Wharf in Yarmouth County. The smallest drawbridge in the world, builders designed it to let fishermen and visitors cross from one side of the wharf system to the other without having to double back on the road.

Sandford Drawbridge is the world’s smallest bridge of its type.

Heritage and natural splendour abound

In Central Nova and the North Shore, where the warmest waters north of the Carolinas kiss beaches made for glorious summer, discovery is at your beck and call

By Alec Bruce

Ahundred thousand welcomes go out as the Antigonish Highland Games gets underway July 2 to 9. The games are a premier Northern Nova Scotia entertainment festival, a two-hour drive from Halifax and on your route to Cape Breton. With more than 150 years of history, the games guarantee fun and authentic Maritime conviviality.

Begun in 1934, the Pictou Lobster Carnival, from July 7 to 9, has become a must-do in Nova Scotia. The three-day event features musical entertainment, a beer garden, a Mardi Gras parade, an antique car show, derby races, lobster boat races, a midway, boat races, fireworks over the water, a children’s parade, and many family activities.

Top:

Below: Pictou waterfront.

Plan to spend a few hours, sampling Award Winning Dragon’s Breath and Gouda cheeses, browsing the shop of Dutch treats and gifts with Antiques in the attic, and stretching your legs in the rural, rustic setting of the Farm, Animal and Nature Park. There you can explore over 20 acres of woodland, along waterways, through the forest, past naturalized gardens, the park allows for an interactive family experience/ picnic. Located on the Funday Shore in Upper Economy, NS overlooking the beautiful Bay of Fundy.

www.thatdutchmansfarm.com

Photos: Steve Smith, VisionFire

Above: Pictou Lobster Carnival.

Melmerby Beach.

Tourism Nova Scotia / Sylvia Matzkowiak

The Ship Hector celebrations formally get underway in September, but people from all over the world are expected to drop by Pictou all summer long. In 2023, the town celebrates two major anniversaries: the historic 250th anniversary of the landing of the Ship Hector (and the relaunch of its lovingly restored, full-sized replica) and the

Put your feet in the sand

Life really is a beach along the Northumberland Shore, where some of warmest ocean waters north of the Carolinas, up to 22°C in the summer, gently roll. Pack your swimsuit, snacks, sunblock, and sand toys and head down to the ocean’s edge. There’s Bayfield Beach Provincial Park, near Antigonish, and Blue Sea Beach Provincial Park at Malagash Point. There’s Heather Beach Provincial Park at Port Howe and Melmerby Beach Provincial Park. Don’t leave out Pomquet Beach Provincial Park, Monks Head at Pomquet, and Northport Beach Provincial Park. Many of these are supervised during July and August, with boardwalk, change houses, flush toilets, salt-rinse showers, picnic tables, boat launches, and free parking.

150th anniversary of the town’s incorporation. More than 20 community organizations will host events that acknowledge the past and celebrate how far the town has come.

Get ready for three more days of great music, Aug. 4 to 6, at the New Glasgow Riverfront Jamboree, set in an openair amphitheatre on the scenic East River. Here, the best East Coast music is jammed into one award-winning event. The Jubilee has hosted many East Coast Music Association, Music Nova Scotia, Juno, and Grammy award winners and nominees.

Speaking of festivals, check out Antigonish, Aug. 17 to 19, during Nova Scotia Summer Fest. Fuel up for your weekend of music at Columbus Field (121

Steve Smith, VisionFire

Dennis Jarvis

Nova Scotia Summer Fest returns to Antigonish in mid-August.

Tourism Nova Scotia / Acorn Art & Photography

Pjila'si!

Mi’kmaw culture and tradition is vibrant and thriving in Mi’kma’ki (Nova Scotia).

We are thrilled to be recognized as the destination of choice for visitors travelling to the ancestral lands of the Mi’kmaw, as you and yours seek meaningful indigenous experiences.

Wela'liek wiaqit'kwey'wiek!

Pronunciation:

Weh lah lee ek We ahh ghit Gway wee ek

Thank you for joining us!

WALKING THE PATH OF OUR ANCESTORS

THE TRUE HISTORY

BY ROBERT BERNARD

Wejiaq wla ta’n tellukutiek, No’pa Sko’sia-ey Tourism-ey Enterprise Network, (NSITE’N) ke’tu’ tlimulek pas+k ta’n tetuji wula’liek ta’n tel ketlamite’tmoq lnuey aq tetuji kepm’ek ta’n tellukutiek. Wejinu’kwalsultiek na ms+t wen nmitun ta’n tel wulikwek m+lki l’nuey tourism wla kmitkinaq.

Wla nike’ etli ankaptmoq tetuji klu’k wi’katikn, nmiatoqs+p te’sijik kekkunk+tjik natawitaqatijik aq telitasikl wen kisi juku’wet aq nemiaji nikmanaq telo’ltipni’k sa’q l’nue’kati’l. Weja’tikemk k’tapekiaqnn, teltesultimk, aq smu’ltesnen na mijipjewey l’nu’k malqotmi’tip. Nekmowey na kowey etl tela’sik Eskasoni Cultural Journey. Ketlamite’tasik elt na kowey nemitmk Membertou Heritage Park, kutey elt nike’ Millbrook Culture aq Heritage Centre. Menuwaq+lnek jukwita’new aq jukwa’lanew kikmawaq aq kitapewaq aq kina’masultik wjit l’nu’k, Mi’kmawaq wetapeksulti’tij.

Ta’n tel mil lukutiek wla l’nuimkewey pema’tuek telki’k lukwaqn, ninen na elt melki lukutiek weji wla’matlutiekik n+naqapeminaq klaman na aji knatew, aq wul toqlukutitesnen weja’tikemk corporate aq ta’n etli nuji kina’masultimkl. . Nekmowe’l na apoqnmuksiekl we’ji’k+tjik millukutijik aq welikjijitu’tij ta’n tla’taqatitaq, wjit wla’ teli lnuwultimk ms+t km+tkinaq. Jukwita’q aq aji kina’masultik wjit telji klu’k telo’ltiek. Wela’liek. *

On behalf of the Nova Scotia Indigenous Tourism Enterprise Network (NSITE’N), we would like to thank you for your interest in the very important work we do to help create awareness on the growth of authentic Mi’kmaw tourism initiatives across our homelands.

In this special issue, you will have an opportunity to see many of our beautiful artists and crafters, as well as the authentic cultural experiences that are shared in our Mi’kmaw communities. From the traditional songs, dances, and foods that we will share with you as part of the Eskasoni Cultural Journeys experiences, to the excellent and high-end artists and crafters showcased at the Membertou Heritage Park, as well as the Millbrook Culture & Heritage Centre, we invite you to bring all of your family and friends to learn about the true history of the Mi’kmaq.

As we work to grow our business and cultural capacity, we too work very hard to build strong relationships and sustainable partnerships with industry, corporate, and educational institutions to help us create the networks we need to share the true history of our people at many major events, festivals, conferences, trade shows, and entry points all across this land. We invite you to come and learn about us — Wela’liek (weh lah lee ek). *

Robert Bernard Executive Director, NSITEN

PHOTO:NSITEN

PHOTO: STEVE SMITH, VISIONFIRE

PHOTO: STEVE SMITH, VISIONFIRE

COVER PHOTO: STEVE SMITH, VISIONFIRE

CREATING CONNECTIONS THROUGH TOURISM Learning through cultural exchange

Since the time of first contact with Europeans, the First Nations of Turtle Island (North America) have welcomed visitors. Today, the Mi’kmaq of Mi’kma’ki (Nova Scotia) invite non-Indigenous people from across the region and around the world to share in Mi’kmaw culture and heritage.

“Visitors to Atlantic Canada are excited to explore our coast and experience the rich landscapes that we’re proud to call home,” says Robert Bernard, executive director of NSITEN. The acronym for the Nova Scotia Indigenous Tourism Enterprise Network is also a Mi’kmaw word meaning “understand.” First Nations tourism operators aim to offer enriching cultural experiences that walk a path of understanding with visitors eager to connect with the continent’s original peoples.

Such cultural exchanges result in the passing along of Indigenous knowledge and perspectives. This exchange is key to the success of the reconciliation process taking place across Canada.

“Visitors are learning more about the true history of our people here,” says Bernard. “They’re also learning how much was lost. It’s a cultural loss we’ve experienced — the colonial effects on our people, culture and languages across the

country.” But there is also much to gain. “We want to share our culture, our food, and other good things,” he adds.

By sharing traditional cultural knowledge and breaking bread with non-Indigenous people, the Mi’kmaq are continuing a practice from the earliest days: welcoming visitors and sharing with them a rich cultural heritage that has taken eons to emerge from life on these ancestral lands.

When visitors with open hearts and minds join Indigenous guides, interpreters, artists, crafters, cultural performers, and culinary experts, the reward is unique and enjoyable transformational experiences, valuable insights, lifelong memories, and bonds forged with Turtle Island’s original peoples.

Cultural exchanges between Indigenous and non-Indigenous peoples help Mi’kmaw communities value their heritage, strengthen their language and reclaim their place in tourism as stewards of their ancestral lands. Such exchanges lead to a more inclusive future for those working in Indigenous tourism.

“The interest shown by visitors will help to create awareness of the Mi’kmaq, but also of Indigenous peoples across Canada and far beyond,” says Bernard. “Cultural tourism is inviting people to visit and to learn the perspective of a nation sharing its true history with the world.” *

PHOTO: STEVE SMITH, VISIONFIRE

AUTHENTIC EXPERIENCES

What’s true to Mi’kmaw culture

The Mi'kmaq celebrate their culture in traditional gatherings or "Mawiomi" in many communities. These events are big, colourful celebrations of traditional culture. Mi’kmaq proudly participate in dancing, singing, food, crafts and teachings, presenting in carefully handcrafted regalia and jewelry, especially when competition is part of the occasion.

Some Mi’kmaw communities are changing the name of these annual celebrations from “powwow” to mawiomi in recognition of the Mi’kmaw origins of such gatherings. Today, a mawiomi is a place to celebrate Mi’kmaw spirit, strength, pride, and endurance.

Robert Bernard encourages non-Indigenous visitors in search of authentic Mi’kmaw experiences to be curious and ask questions and seek experiences that connect to the traditional Mi’kmaw way of life, true to customary practices. These immersive experiences are the best way to participate in authentic First Nation’s cultural heritage.

Just as with the term powwow, the word tipi (or teepee) is not Mi’kmaw. “Wi’kuom” is the Mi’kmaw name for a conical, single-family dwelling. It’s important to learn the history and significant differences between such introduced words and their authentic Mi’kmaq counterparts. Understanding these differences helps non-Indigenous people appreciate the true

heritage, way of life, and cultural practices of the Mi’kmaq.

Traditionally, wi’kuoms were made of birchbark and poles with a floor of fir boughs, furs, and mats. These were materials readily available in the forests that covered Mi’kmaw ancestral lands, materials that differ from those used to build tipis. Birchbark and pole wi'kuoms were easily assembled, packed up and reassembled as part of their historically seminomadic lifestyle.

Bernard says it can be complicated, determining which Mi’kmaw experiences are truly authentic. Mi’kmaq are even moving away from the use of term “authentic” because it can be difficult to apply accurately. “Even the definition of traditional changes from the 17th century to the 19th century,” says Bernard. “Traditions change over time, but original customary practices stay the same.”

“We brought back the mawiomi,” says Bernard, “while creating awareness in our own communities that mawiomis are the way to go so that we can practise our original customary practices and traditional values. We want to get as close as possible to 100 per cent Mi’kmaw songs, dances, and stories. It’s going to take time, but we’re now reclaiming our original culture.”

Eventually, says Barnard, all parts of the mawiomi will be “kinowey” — “ours.” *

PHOTO: STEVE SMITH, VISIONFIRE

RECLAIMING CULINARY HERITAGE

Foods and flavours

One of the ways the Mi’kmaq are reclaiming their original customary practices is through the sharing of food. Nova Scotia is an ocean-bound land. In their 144,000-plus years thriving on these ancestral lands, the Mi’kmaq adapted perfectly to that geography. They spent much of the year on the coast, harvesting the abundant foods available there.

Huge schools of salmon migrated upriver in the spring. These were caught and smoked for future use. Abundant shellfish, such as clams, were plentiful and easily accessible just by digging in the sand. Squid and lobster were important in the Mi’kmaw diet, as were larger prey such as porpoise, seals, and even small whales.

Inland, the Mi’kmaq hunted caribou and moose, once plentiful on the mainland. They collected blueberries and dried them. Where rivers ran from lakes, the Mi’kmaq built weirs to catch migrating eels. Much of this cornucopia was dried and smoked for the winter when prey was harder to hunt.

Today, Mi’kmaq cuisine includes local seafood or wild meats with flavours of the forest and the sea. Traditional foods can be simple and closer to original dishes, especially when prepared in home kitchens for gatherings and celebrations. Eel is still a Mi’kmaq delicacy, but it’s also a food prepared and shared as a sign of respect and status at important occasions. You might find it grilled, pan fried, smoked, or in a pie or stew.

“Stew is a traditional food-making process,” says Geordy Marshall. “We’d keep rocks hot in the fire, clean them off, then transfer the hot rocks into a cooking pot. Whatever ingredients we had would be turned into a stew, whether a seafood stew, a wild game stew, or maybe even vegetable stew.”

Marshall is a graduating student at Culinary Institute of Canada in P.E.I. who

Chef Geordy Marshall

PHOTO: BRUCE MURRAY, VISIONFIRE

Mi'kmaw food and traditional recipes were very versatile based on the season and ingredient availabilty. Nothing was wasted and it was always shared.

learned a love of cooking from his grandmother in Eskasoni. He learned some techniques from stories told by Elders. He calls on these stories to create his own techniques and recipes that honour traditional methods and ingredients. Marshall recognizes that the Mi’kmaw diet has undergone enormous change. Many wild foods are no longer available. At the same time, the Mi’kmaq adopted and adapted some settler foods, which have become part of more recently developed Mi’kmaw traditions.

Lusknikn and bannock are simple breads that became traditional in Mi’kmaw homes and at gatherings after settlers introduced them. One variety is called four-cent bread, named for the price of the ingredients. These breads are baked or fried, sometimes even snaked around a maple branch and cooked over an open fire. When hot, they’re smeared with jam, butter, or molasses. Today, they’re an important part of feasts on many occasions.

Original or adopted, all Mi’kmaw foods tell a story, whether it’s of the times before first contact or of the impact of settler culture on Mi’kmaw customs. Eel stew is an ancient customary dish Marshall’s grandmother still prepares, but she’s just as fond of serving potatoes. For Mi’kmaw cooks, adapting to changing conditions is as important as honouring the past.

Mi’kmaw cooks and chefs like Geordy Marshall who have trained at culinary schools and practised in commercial kitchens across Canada and beyond are leaning into their traditions to create exciting new Indigenous culinary experiences. This new generation of cooks is rediscovering original customary practice. They’re combining a passion for their Mi’kmaw heritage with new techniques and approaches to create exciting new menus.

“The Mi’kmaw cuisine is mostly about philosophy and product utilization, more than having attachments to certain ingredients,” says Marshall. One important part of that philosophy is sharing foods. One family might hunt a moose, another might gather lots of mussels. All are shared in a close-knit community like his, says Marshall.

The range of foods available to today’s cooks has changed greatly since pre-contact times. Caribou no longer live in Nova Scotia and the mainland moose is endangered. However, lobster, squid, eel, and shellfish are widely available. Although wild-caught Atlantic salmon is no longer harvested, some Mi’kmaq use farmed Atlantic salmon instead, which they might plank before an open fire and glaze with local maple syrup and served with wild blueberry sauce.

Simple is often best, but Mi’kmaw chefs are also going to the next level with their creations, drawing inspiration from the customs and traditions of their people. Here’s the menu from a recent mawiomi: slow-roasted venison loin with celeriac purée, quick-seared calamari with a light bone jus pine aroma, and pit-fire, boiled, saltwater lobster with cornbread purée and maple duck bacon. While many of these ingredients are original to the Mi’kmaw people, there’s a heavy contemporary influence on the preparation methods.

Mi’kmaw restaurants are rare, but at a restaurant such as Kiju’s in Membertou on Cape Breton Island, Mi’kmaw-inspired cuisine is part of the menu. “Kiju” means mother in the Mi’kmaw language and honours the role of women as the fire keepers who fed the family. Kiju’s special, three-course Mi’kmaw dinner starts with a four-cent bread skillet that comes with spinach, artichoke, and cream cheese. The main course is cedar planked salmon with a mandarin, red onion, and blackberry salata. For dessert, there’s wild blueberry cake with sweet cream and local mint.

There’s a lot of history in a menu like this. Ingredients from pre-contact times blend with foods adapted over the past 500 years. Current culinary styles, techniques and preferences influence the way Mi’kmaw foods are prepared and presented. While these recent takes on traditional foods are a departure from original ingredients and their uses, they have their roots deep in an honoured past. *

PHOTO: BRUCE MURRAY, VISIONFIRE

SHARING THE KNOWLEDGE

The importance of Elder and youth connections

First Nations cultural knowledge keepers are passing down their heritage to future generations. Because of the loss of culture, language, values, and ways of knowing that the Mi’kmaq have endured, it’s vitally important that Elders share their knowledge with younger members of the community.

One important spinoff of Indigenous tourism is the way it leads to the rediscovering and revitalization of traditional knowledge within Mi’kmaw communities. Many Indigenous tourism operators provide their services to other Indigenous individuals and groups, including students, teachers and families eager to learn more about their own heritage and traditions.

At a mawiomi, children might participate in dances and songs. Many of these are common across Indigenous communities throughout Turtle Island. However, Mi’kmaw children are now learning more about their own original customary music, dances, and songs.

Even games can help pass along traditional values and knowledge. An example is the tabletop game waltes (pronounced “walt-iss”), an ancient competition using a bowl, disks or dice, and hooked sticks. Eskasoni Cultural Journeys on Cape Breton Island teaches visitors how to play waltes. This mini workshop is one of several on a 2.3-kilometre nature trail where an interpreter from the community waits at each stop. (Other stops include hunting and fishing, traditional housing structures, dance, Mi’kmaw medicines, the trading post, and breadmaking over an open fire.)

Waltes is played with a wooden bowl that doubles as a spiritual totem, a use that led settler authorities to ban it. “The bowl is made from the burl of a tree,” explains Faye Sylliboy, the manager at Eskasoni Cultural Journeys. “The sticks are made from a tree. The six dice are made from the ankle bone of a deer.” The game itself teaches Mi’kmaw children the customs of their ancestors and how these emerged from their close relationship with the land. The game also says something of the extensive cultural loss inflicted by settler culture.

Sylliboy says visitors find the trail educational. “People come here with judgments and they leave with a totally different perspective, a better understanding of who we are. I enjoy teaching them and breaking those barriers between our cultures. Every tour, there’s someone we can teach. Working at this job, we get to be ourselves. We get to teach people who we are, where we come from. It leaves me feeling so happy.”

Sylliboy adds that they’re teaching waltes, the “Mi’kmaw Honour Song,” and the traditional dance called the kojua (go-ju-wah) to as many Mi’kmaw children as they can. They’re teaching kids to learn more about their culture and language, so they in turn can go out and share the Mi’kmaw perspective.

“We’re rediscovering and reclaiming our language and our culture,” says Robert Bernard. Knowledge sharing within Mi’kmaw communities is just as important as sharing with non-Indigenous people. “It’s going to take time for us to re-introduce these to our communities, people, cultural knowledge keepers and performers, but we’ll get there.” *

PHOTO: STEVE SMITH, VISIONFIRE

WHAT’S IN A NAME ? Reclaiming original names

Place names can either reveal or conceal history. For example, there’s debate about the origins of the word Kejimkujik, the name of Nova Scotia’s largest national park. It could mean “tired muscles” or “a long way to paddle.” Both meanings refer to Kejimkujik Lake as the centre of a major inland navigational route travelled for millennia by the Mi’kmaq. Names such as Kejimkujik reveal the history of Mi’kmaw ancestral lands and the cultural importance of specific places.

However, most Nova Scotia place names come from settler languages: English, French, Gaelic, and German. Some place names even conceal from the average visitor origins that are painful for the Mi’kmaq. Some towns, streets, rivers and lakes take their names from oppressive, even violent historical figures. Names such as Amherst, Lawrencetown, and Cornwallis, commemorating British military and government officials who worked to wipe out the Mi’kmaw people, continue to cause harm.

The current process of returning to Mi’kmaw place names is part of the reconciliation process, helping to heal deep, historical wounds. This process reminds everyone of pre-contact times and helps Mi’kmaw reclaim important parts of their heritage, giving everyone a new perspective on the place the Mi’kmaq have always shared with settlers.

Take for example the name for Nova Scotia. The Mi’kmaq refer to their traditional territory — roughly Nova Scotia, P.E.I., and parts of New Brunswick and Maine — as Mi’kma’ki and think of it as divided into seven districts. The fourth district, Cape Breton Island, is called Unama’ki. One large district in mainland Nova Scotia, including today’s capital city, Halifax, is known as Sipekne'katik.

The Mi’kmaw language differs from English in many ways. Whereas some languages organize along masculine and feminine lines, Mi’kmaw words are either animate or inanimate. Whereas drum or “pepkijetaqn” is inanimate, eagle or “kitpu” is animate. As a result, Mi’kmaq tends to be a more active language than those of European origin. Place names often arise from their role in Mi’kmaw culture and daily life. They might describe a bay particularly good for fishing, a shore that sees a lot of wave action, or an island that’s a good stopping place on a long journey.

Halifax is Kjipuktuk, pronounced "che-book-took," meaning “Great Harbour.” The Anglicized version of the Mi’kmaw word became the name for one of the city’s main arteries, Chebucto Road. Acknowledging and celebrating the Mi’kmaw origins of place names, as well as reverting to the original Indigenous names, respects the first people of these ancestral lands and enriches the understanding of this place for everyone. *

PHOTO: STEVE SMITH, VISIONFIRE

SUSTAINABLE TOURISM

Protecting and sharing our sacred spaces

There’s no better way to stay true to the principles of sustainable tourism than to participate in Indigenous experiences. The three legs of sustainable tourism — environmental, social, and economic integrity — come together with Indigenous tourism experiences.

By their nature, outings with Mi’kmaw guides and interpreters support environmental sustainability. Visitors can try their hand at helping build a traditional birchbark canoe using materials gathered entirely from the forest. They can tour Canada’s second largest collection of petroglyphs, take guided medicine walks to identify sacred plants, and learn how traditional objects are made. Experiences like these are low impact, leaving virtually no environmental footprint.

Many Mi’kmaw goods and services such as handcrafts and guided tours value the wilderness. Plants, trees, whole forests are used gently, either as places to visit or as the sources of raw materials. Whether its birchbark for canoes and wigwams, black ash for basketry or spruce roots for making natural rope, harvesting is carried out in a sustainable manner, guaranteeing that particular species and the ecosystems in which they live are maintained for future generations.

While such experiences are carried out in ways that respect the environment, they also provide economic benefits directly to the community. Mi’kmaw cultural workers are creating high quality employment by rediscovering and sharing their own heritage. Sustainable tourism that is developed and controlled locally and that relies on the richness of customary cultural heritage, contributes directly to local prosperity and to long term community wellbeing.

In turn, a healthy Mi’kmaw community that draws upon its heritage to create engaging and educational experiences translates into high quality visitor experiences. For those who wish to share in original, customary Mi’kmaw events and guided tours, or to take home original works by Mi’kmaw artisans, there are many rewards, both for themselves and for their Indigenous hosts.

Sustainable tourism helps to bridge the gap between cultures. Direct contact with Indigenous peoples, hands on experiences with Mi’kmaw customary practices and history learned through an Indigenous lens, all these things help break down stereotypes and preconceived notions of who the Mi’kmaq are and how they live.

Mi’kmaw guides, interpreters, artists, and performers are proud of their culture, and want to share it with non-Indigenous visitors, as they’ve always done. Sharing is a strong cultural value that the Mi’kmaq have as a people. That’s why they’re inviting visitors to see through Indigenous eyes, to look around mindfully, paying attention to Mi’kmaw traditions and values, all of which were forged from thousands of years living in harmony with their environment. *

PHOTO: STEVE SMITH, VISIONFIRE

THE REAL RHYTHM OF MI’KMAW MUSIC AND DANCE

Acommon sound at many Mi’kmaw events is the steady beat of the drum. Sometimes a solo drummer invites participants into a space with a drum. At other times, performers sit in a circle around a large drum, striking the skin in unison. A steady rhythm builds and is felt, reverber ating in the chest, as much as it’s heard.

This rhythm is said to be the heartbeat of a nation, the blood of the Mi’kmaq coursing through the veins of the generations, the very pulse of Mother Earth. The drummers may break into song, the drum serving as a metronome to the unity of their voices raised in those familiar, high-pitched chants.

The drum is not an original Mi’kmaw instrument and group drumming is not a customary practice. High-pitched chanting is not a customary Mi’kmaw cultural practice. The large, group drums are pan-Indigenous instruments. In other words, they’ve been adopted across Turtle Island by many Indigenous First Nations. The post-contact loss of regional Indigenous cultures led to this kind of

pan-Indigenous musical practice. The Mi’kmaq are only now rediscovering their own customary instruments and music.

The original customary Mi’kmaw instrument is called a ji'kmaqn. The ji'kmaqn is believed to have a connection to the spirit world. It’s a piece of ash wood split into layers and sounds like a rattle when slapped against the palm of the hand. Sometimes, a hand drum is played to accompany the ji’kmaqn. Sometimes, the player chants or sings traditional Mi’kmaw songs.

Even in their construction, ji'kmaqn and small drums carry information about Mi’kmaw culture. They’re made with materials gathered from the natural world around us: wood, bark, skins, antlers. For millennia, these were the materials that came to the Mi’kmaq as those that acknowledge and honour countless generations of life on their ancestral lands. Today, musical groups like Alan Syliboy and the Thundermakers call upon these traditions when they compose and perform songs in their language than honour this rich heritage.

One particularly important song, the “Mi’kmaq Honour Song,” is sung on many special occasions. Musician Alan Syliboy says of the song, “It’s a Mi’kmaw anthem, a very powerful song.” His band, Alan Syliboy and the Thundermakers, performs the song often, especially to open special events as a message of welcome and inclusion. “It means that you honour everybody at that event,” says Syliboy. “Everybody here is celebrated.”

Singing is also a form of language keeping. “When I make music, the language is front and centre,” says Syliboy. “It’s a way to preserve it and keep it alive. It’s a continuation of an old story.”

For a long time, the Mi’kmaw language was not just discouraged, but forbidden, even violently purged from its speakers. Today, the language is taught to children in schools and at home. Mi’kmaw songs are like a jar where the language is preserved and into which the singers dip to retrieve words, concepts, and ideas from the mouths of ancestors. *

The ji'kmaqn. A tradtional Mi'kmaw instrument

PHOTO: STEVE SMITH, VISIONFIRE

FROM PETROGLYPHS TO PUBLIC ART

The legacy of Indigenous creativity

Mi’kmaw artists don’t just work in music and dance, of course. There’s basketry, jewellery, painting, printmaking, sculpture, and ceramics. Regardless of the form, the work is an expression of Mi’kmaw heritage, viewed through a contemporary lens. Of the recent explosion in Mi’kmaw arts, Alan Syliboy says, “I look at this as a whole renaissance of Mi’kmaw culture being expressed in many ways.”

Syliboy is a groundbreaker as one of the bestknown Mi’kmaw artists. His paintings often take inspiration from original Mi’kmaw designs, symbols, and even petroglyphs. As a contemporary Mi’kmaw artist, he builds upon these inspirations with brilliant colours and animated composition to give them new life. Animals of all kinds appear in his work, many of them fish and mammals from the sea. At the same time, his work is an expression of something we might call the Mi’kmaw universe.

“We’re a coastal people,” says Syliboy. “We’ve been driven inland, so I’m trying to regain the shore, to bring more images that are water-based — whales, porpoises, sea turtles — into my art.”

Lorne Julien, another popular Mi’kmaw artist, is known for the large, colourful murals he paints for schools and other public spaces. His goal is to help create safe, inclusive spaces that honour Indigenous peoples. He sees these public works as acts of reconciliation and believes they result in mutual respect and understanding.

Julien also works in photography, stained glass and other media. Through the use of vibrant colours and Indigenous design, he hopes to uplift people’s spirits. One of his projects gained wide recognition when he painted hockey sticks as awards for outstanding players at the 2022 world junior hockey championship.

For other Mi’kmaw artisans, materials themselves honour original customs and forms of expression. Locally sourced leather, porcupine quills, wood, and beads are the raw materials for beautifully handcrafted works of the highest quality.

Nancy Oakley is one Mi’kmaw artisan who calls upon the materials and methods of the past.

“Love Struck,” by Lorne Julien.

Trained in Canada and the U.S. in weaving, jewellery, and photography, she was particularly taken with ceramics.

“I do smoke-fired pottery and incorporate elements like sweet grass, black-ash basketry, bead work, and Mi’kmaw hieroglyphics,” says Oakley. She also uses clay found in her own back yard in Eskasoni. “I’m also recreating traditional Mi’kmaw cooking pots.”

Oakley, a First Nation artist of Wampanoag and Mi’kmaq descent, says of her work: “It’s who I am.”

When artists like Syliboy, Julien, and Oakley draw upon their Mi’kmaw heritage to create new art, they become knowledge keepers. Contained within their works is the worldview of the Mi’kmaw people. As Syliboy puts it, “We’ve made marks and done ceremony on this ground for 113,000 moons. It’s where our DNA comes from.” *

PHOTO: COURTESY OF LORNE JULIEN

GOAT ISLAND

HOME OF ESKASONI CULTURAL JOURNEYS

MUSIC FOLKLORE

FOOD

GIFT SHOP

KAYAK CATCH & COOK TOURS

MEDICINE WALK TOURS

KAYAK RENTALS

GROUP, INDIVIDUAL & SELF-GUIDED TOURS

Pjila’si! Nestled along the Bras d’Or Lakes—a Unesco Biosphere Region—rich history, culture, and beauty are waiting to be discovered.

Discover authentic Mi’kmaw culture along our picturesque 2.4 km trail on Goat Island in Eskasoni. A true acknowledgement of the life of the Mi’kmaq, historically and modern day, we invite visitors to share in a unique story while preserving our First People’s culture.

To find out more, or to book your tour online: EskasoniCulturalJourneys.ca or call 902-919-2320

Tidal Bore rafting on the Shubenacadie River.

Main St.) during the Thursday night Summer Fest Cookout before enjoying two days of music featuring Natalie MacMaster & Donnell Leahy, Matt Andersen & The Big Bottle of Joy, Jimmy Rankin, Ennis Sisters, Dave Sampson Band, and more.

Old friends

The Cobequid Trail is an 18-kilometre network of walking and cycling trails in central Colchester County, at the head of the Bay of Fundy. Explore woodland paths and shaded brooks. Stroll beside farmland and Acadian dyke lands, beside the tidal Salmon

River, and watch the tidal bore as it arrives twice daily. Discover We’kwampekitk (the Mi’kmaw name for the Truro area), which means “the bay runs far up.”

Feel the rush of riding waves that can be up to four metres high as you go Tidal Bore Rafting in a Zodiac boat. In the Bay of Fundy, the world’s highest tides turn the Shubenacadie River into a water rollercoaster that’s unique to Nova Scotia. Guides take you cascading down rapids as the incoming ocean reverses the flow of the river. This fun-filled voyage, also named a Canadian Signature Experience, isn’t complete without mud sliding, too.

Cobequid Trail offers 18 kilometres of walking and biking adventure.

Cliffs of Fundy Geopark

Credit: Tourism Nova Scotia Photographer: @katsteele86

Photo Credit: @daveyandsky

Credit: Tourism Nova Scotia

Photographer: Acorn Art & Photography

Credit: Tourism Nova Scotia Photographer: Patrick Rojo

With several prime viewing locations of the world’s highest tides, visit the Cliffs of Fundy UNESCO Global Geopark, located along the north shore of the Minas Basin of the Bay of Fundy in Nova Scotia, stretching from Lower Truro in the east to Apple River in the west, a distance of 165 kilometres. The Mi’kmaq were the first geologists of the Geopark, selecting rocks for their points and tools, and for cere-

monial use in sweat lodges. The Cliffs of Fundy honours the ethical space of the Mi’kmaq and their oral traditions of cultural geo-heritage. Here, the Debert “Paleo-Indian” site, more properly referred to as Mi’kmawey Debert, is one of the most significant indigenous archeological sites in North America, representing the earliest human settlement in eastern North America dating back approximately 11,000 years.

Last words

Truro’s Colchester Historeum is a state-of-the-art exhibit gallery within a downtown heritage building. It provides a fascinating glimpse into the past and the perfect intro into what makes the area special.

Visit Tatamagouche Creamery Square for four attractions in one. Here, an award-winning waterfront heritage

Experience the Age of Sail Heritage Centre.

centre and archives, farmers’ market with large deck and picnic area, performing art centre and gallery, are located for your convenience just off the Trans-Canada Trail.

Finally, high upon a hill overlooking the Bay of Fundy is where you’ll find That Dutchman’s Cheese Farm. The products of time-honoured practices that are hard to beat for taste and texture, the Gouda is simply delicious. In addition to great cheese, enjoy the onsite animal and nature park.

Find four attractions in one at Tatamagouche Creamery Square.

Stroll through time on Mi’kmawey Debert Trail.

Top: That Dutchman’s Cheese Farm embraces Nova Scotian flavours.

Bottom: Stroll along the seaside in Five Islands.

Wild thing

Dotted with islands, almost endless seashores, storytellers, and cultural and culinary gems — when are you coming to Nova Scotia’s Eastern Shore?

By Shelley Cameron-McCarron

The coast is still wild on the Eastern Shore, where travellers can get a deep experience in nature, kayaking amongst and camping on uninhabited islands, hiking pristine coastal trails, seeking out seabirds and songbirds, surfing legendary swells, and strolling sand beaches where they may not necessarily meet another soul. And if you do meet someone, they’re just apt to strike up a chat.

It’s a place where hospitality, the personal touch, is still evident — a place of splendid foodie finds, and storytellers willing to sit and tell their stories of life along this coast, where good advice is to base yourself at an inn or motel, take a boat tour, go on a nature or coastal

experience, and come back with memories you won’t soon forget.

Wild Islands, seaside solitude

Nova Scotia’s Eastern Shore boasts beautiful, largely uninhabited coast, known as the 100 Wild Islands, rich in wildlife and largely undisturbed. These outposts, stretching from Clam Harbour to Mushaboom, are little-seen, ecologically diverse, and accessible.

Murphy’s Camping On The Ocean

(some islands visible from campsites) rents kayaks and has several tours: a group sail, a private boat that includes opportunities to visit an island, and wilderness overnight camping. Coastal Adventures and Norse Cove Kayak Centre both offer a variety of sea kayaking tours and rentals. Sober Island Boat Tours lets you see the islands from aboard a lobster fishing boat.

New and noteworthy

NovaNature Adventures, based in Goldboro, helps channel your inner naturalist. A biologist, conservation manager, and former national parks superintendent leads the company. NovaNature offers mostly nature-based excursions that range from discovering the hidden life of tidal pools and beaches in Tor Bay

Provincial Park to a guided tour of the night sky and coastal landscape, paired with gourmet meals and oceanfront accommodations at Seawind Landing Country Inn

Rebuilt with a modern boho vibe, the Marmalade Motel is a small, oceanside, roadside motel in Port Dufferin with sea-view balconies and extras designed to help guests unwind and have fun — it even hosted a Bates Motel takeover!

Tourism Nova Scotia / Acorn Art & Photography

Marmalade Motel boasts a stunning sea view and chill vibe.

Tourism Nova Scotia / Ian Selig

Murphy’s Camping On The Ocean.

Tried and true

The legacy of the eponymous Canadian folk icon will once again be writ large over the Stan Rogers Folk Festival (July 20 to 23). Heading into its 26th year, “Canada’s songwriter festival” draws upwards of 10,000 fans to the tiny seaside community of Canso for three days of blues, folk, country, rock, and bluegrass. Traditionally, the lineup mixes big names (Alan Doyle opens this year) and up-and-comers.

Top: Kayaking at Norse Cove.

Middle: Sober Island Boat Tours.

Bottom: Stan Rogers Folk Festival.

History fills the air too. At Memory Lane Heritage Village in Lake Charlotte, enjoy a meal at the cookhouse, go clam digging, and immerse in rural 1940s life. Go even further back in time, dressing in an 1860s period costume and stepping into the old jail cells and around town at Sherbrooke Village, Nova Scotia’s largest provincial museum, with 25 buildings open to the public and 21 hectares snug along the St. Mary’s River in the village of Sherbrooke.

Port Bickerton Lighthouse Interpretive Centre is a beacon for this area’s rich marine heritage. Learn about the life of a lighthouse keeper on these oft fog-shrouded shores. It also has an artist-in-residence program too and a network of coastal trails.

Picnic, parks, and play Inspiration abounds on the coast. Pack a picnic and a sense of adventure and explore provincial parks, home to white sand beaches, waves rolling in from the

Atlantic Ocean, boardwalks, and hiking trails. Black Duck Cove Provincial Park in Little Dover, near Canso, has a gorgeous, sheltered cove. Tor Bay Provincial Park, with its hiking, beach and rocky outcrops makes contemplation easy. Popular Taylor’s Head Provincial Park, close to Sheet Harbour, has appealing white sands, coastal trails, and scenic lookouts.

Beach lovers can continue exploring at Rainbow Haven Beach Provincial Park, Clam Harbour Beach Provincial Park, Lawrencetown Beach Provincial Park, and Martinique Beach Provincial Park. The latter two are prime surfing destinations where you can book lessons and rentals.

Find serenity on a network of nature trails around Liscombe Lodge Resort They range from a leisurely 15-minute walk to a three-hour hike. The resort also runs a pontoon boat tour on the

2884 Highway 7, Liscomb Mills, NS B0J 2A0

To book, please call 1-800-665-6343 or online at www.liscombelodge.ca

Tourism Nova Scotia / ™daveyandsky

Visit Nova Scotia’s past at Memory Lane Heritage Village.

Liscomb River Trail system.

Tourism Nova Scotia / Adam Hill

Port Bickerton Lighthouse Interpretive Centre.

Liscomb River, and seafood is always a staple in its riverside restaurant. In the village of Guysbourgh, the waterfront has ongoing activities including free local music on Waterfront Wednesdays. It’s also home to a summer gallery in the marina building showcasing and selling the talents of members of the artist guild, ArtsWork East.

Tourism Nova Scotia / Dean Casavechia

Lawrencetown Beach.

Liscombe Lodge.

Clam Harbour Beach.

Tourism Nova Scotia / Ryan Williams Dennis Jarvis

Tourism Nova Scotia / Acorn Art & Photography

Living history

Explore Nova Scotia’s South Shore — breathtaking scenery and vibrant history, local arts and crafts, romantic old towns and villages, artisanal bakeries and craft breweries, and even North America’s oldest vineyard

By Barry Rueger

Summer brings big events like the South Shore Exhibition, the largest agricultural exhibition in the province (July 25 to 30) and the musical delights of the Lunenburg Folk Harbour Festival (Aug. 10 to 13). Learn the history of the Mi’kmaq, the original people of this region, at the Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic Site.

Explore Nova Scotia’s African history at the Black Loyalist Heritage Centre and spend some time with the music of country legend Hank Snow at the museum in his home town of Brooklyn (near Liverpool).

No trip to the South Shore is complete without days spent at the edge of the

Atlantic. Whether you’re lounging on the sand at Daniel’s Head Beach (on Cape Sable Island), following the Lighthouse Route from Halifax to Yarmouth, or visiting the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic in Lunenburg, you’ll find yourself pausing at every turn to admire the ever-changing seas and skies around you.

The seaside adjunct of Kejimkujik National Park. Top right: Black Loyalist Heritage Centre. Bottom right: Kejimkujik National Historic Site Trail.

South Shore Exhibition

Communications Nova Scotia / Megan Hirons Mahon Tourism Nova Scotia / @itstomjoseph

Bruce Murray, VisionFire

Returning in July, “the Ex,” as locals know it, is a longstanding celebration of Nova Scotia’s agricultural prowess.

Kejimkujik offers a variety of camping experiences.

Perkins House

Break out your surf board in Western Head, or head down to the Rossignol Surf Shop on the beautiful white sand beach of Summerville Beach Provincial Park. Visit Canada’s most famous sailing ship, the Bluenose II, in Lunenburg. (Yes, that’s the ship on the back of the Canadian dime).

The great outdoors

Nova Scotia has parks galore ranging from dozens of small local parks and seaside walks to the Ovens Natural Park in Riverport where you can

Queens County Museu

explore sea caves, go gold panning and kayaking while staying on-site in cabins or the campground. And on the second to third weekend of August every year, visit for the annual Chapin Family Concert.

At the Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic Site you can camp alongside Kejimkujik Lake in a yurt, or a wilderness cabin. The park is also where you can explore petroglyphs, the ancient stone carvings that paint a vivid picture of the Mi’kmaw way of life.

The grand celebration of Perkins House takes place Summer of 2022!

to step inside this architectural gem, built in 1766 by Merchant and Judge, Simeon

Perkins. Perkins was best known for the remarkable diary he faithfully kept from 1766 to 1812. Some of the accounts in his diary provide vivid details of everyday life in a colonial town when the harbour teemed with Schooners, Captains, Sailors and Privateers. In colonial times, Liverpool was a bustling centre of international shipping and trade. Discover the intrigue of Nova Scotian privateers, whom some considered protectors but others called pirates. Learn about the important role Perkins played in the local economy and in protecting the settlers during the American Revolution and later wars.

Our costumed staff invite you to step inside this architectural gem, built in 1766 by Merchant and Judge, Simeon Perkins. Perkins was best known for the remarkable diary he faithfully kept from 1766 to 1812. Some of the accounts in his diary provide vivid details of everyday life in a colonial town when the harbour teemed with Schooners, Captains, Sailors and Privateers. In colonial times, Liverpool was a bustling centre of international shipping and trade. Discover the intrigue of Nova Scotian privateers, whom some considered protectors but others called pirates. Learn about the important role Perkins played in the local economy and in protecting the settlers during the American Revolution and later wars.

Restaurant & Gift Shop

Enjoy your stay as you and your family partake in the ongoing programs of the day.

Enjoy your stay as you and your family partake in the ongoing programs of the day.

Open daily: June 1 to October 1

Monday to Saturday: 9:30am – 5pm Sunday: 1pm – 5pm

105 Main St., Liverpool, NS B0T1K0 Tel: 902-354-4058

ww w.perkinshouse.novascotia.ca

Adjacent to Perkins House, we invite you to explore the history of our County. Come on in & experience our great new interactive Pri Cannon! Immerse yourself in the life of the Mi’kmaq culture, and engage in a potpou exhibits that tell the rest of our story. It’s all here and more. Giftshop. Admission by donation.

Adjacent to Perkins House, we invite you to explore the history ofour County. Come on in and ex perience  new interactive Privateer Ship—The Liverpool Packet.  Immerse yourself in the life of the Mi'kmaq, and engage in our marine history.  Also home of The Thomas Raddall Research Centre. It's all here and more! Giftshop.

Admission by donation.

Open daily: June 1 to October 1

Monday to Saturday: 9:30 am – 5pm

109MainSt.Liverpool,NS Tel:(902)354-4058

Sunday: 1pm – 5pm

109 Main St., Liverpool, NS B0T1K0 Tel: 902-354-4058

www.queenscountymuseum.com

www.queenscountymuseum.com

“Giving the Past a Future”

“A Man & His Journal”

Our fully licensed restaurant is situated at the top of the hill overlooking the famous Peggy’s Cove lighthouse.

Ovens Natural Park.

Local FLAVOUR

In downtown Liverpool, look for the Main & Mersey Home Store. Hidden behind the shop is a coffee bar with excellent espresso and home-style treats. It’s also a popular spot for locals to mingle and exchange news. And be sure to visit the new Main and Mersey restaurant, featuring Japanese fusion dishes made from Nova Scotian ingredients.

In Shelburne, try the casual-upscale choices at the Emerald Light restaurant and bar on Water Street. Lunenburg’s Rascals Run Burrito Bar will serve you a hot lunch and a cold local beer, but be sure to look around downtown to find the perfect spot.

Like most towns on the South Shore, Liverpool also has monthly fish and chips dinners at the local fire hall, and pancake breakfasts, all to raise funds for good causes. Watch for signs or just ask the cashier at your next shopping trip.

If you love to cook, visit local farmers markets, which offer fruit, vegetables, meat, seafood, cheese, and baked goods — all

Lamprai & Spice Café.

local, all delicious. The South Shore’s biggest is in Lunenburg but most towns have their own, usually one day each week. Visit farmersmarketsnovascotia.ca, or just ask a local when and where they happen. Also in Lunenburg, you’ll find Lamprai & Spice Café, serving distinctive Sri Lankan flavours.

Nova Scotia is now home to a saffron farm. Coastal Grove Farm in Upper Port La Tour made its first harvest of this exotic herb in 2022. Book a tour at coastalgrove.ca.

If boiling live lobster daunts you, visit Mahone Bay’s Lobster Made Easy shop. It showcases inventor Mark Lowe’s microwavable lobster: a product that the investors on Dragon’s Den were eager to back.

Emerald Light restaurant.

Saffron from Coastal Grove Farm.

Home

Today’s South Shore Mi’kmaw community is vibrant. Annual highlight are the National Day for Truth and Reconciliation on Sept. 30 and Treaty Day on Oct. 1, with a festival of music, dance, and friend-

ship at the Hank Snow Home Town Museum in Liverpool. Queens County is also home to artist Todd Labrador (One Who Dances on Water), an internationally known Mi’kmaw artisan/ birch bark canoe builder whose art is exhibited around the world.

There are hundreds of kilometres of shared-use trails to walk or ride. The Chester Trail Art Project is where local artists display their creations for you to enjoy as walk. Also in Chester is the Castle Rock hiking trail, an 8.2-kilometre hike that will lead you to some of the most breathtaking views in Nova Scotia. The panoramas of Mahone Bay are breathtaking. Trail difficulty varies from simple strolls to demanding expeditions.

decor accessories, soft furnishings and fabrics, plus barista made coffees, teas, pastries and more...

**NEW** FINE DINING RESTAURANT opening summer 2023

Darcy Rhyno

Lunenburg’s historic waterfront. Top right: The Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic, Lunenburg Academy, and Ross Farm. Below A workshop with Mi’kmaw craftsman Todd Labrador.

Music of all kinds

Music lovers will discover all manner of delights. The Lunenburg Academy of Music Performance has been training classical musicians since 2014, “creating the next generation of outstanding performing artists within the walls of a Canadian architectural treasure.” Check its concert calendar to see which internationally renowned musicians, Academy faculty, or future classical stars are playing during your visit.

The Lunenburg Opera House and Liverpool’s Astor Theatre are hubs of local activity with music, theatre, and movies. Further south you can visit the Osprey Arts Centre, a must-see on the waterfront in old Shelburne. And in Riverport you’ll find the Old

Confidence Lodge, dating from 1754 and formerly a smugglers’ haven during prohibition, where you can still feel the charm and personality during concerts and in its use a recording studio.

Nova Scotia has always been alive with music, and if you ask around in any town, you’ll find concerts by local musicians in bars and churches, or even kitchens, and opportunities to join in with local choirs, or to do-si-do with the community square dance clubs.

Old friends and new favourites

A visit to the South Shore is a step back in time. The Ross Farm Museum in New Ross offers 24 hectares of rolling land for you to discover what life was like on a Nova Scotia farm over a century ago. An authentic living heritage site, much of it remains as it was in the 1800s. While in the area, also check out the Fisheries

Land OF ART

Artists thrive on the South Shore. Coastal Queens Place in Port Mouton features local artists and has a craft gallery. The Great Island Arts Co-operative Limited in Port Medway is a non-profit organization that helps run a multi-disciplinary artist residency program on a remote South Shore island.

Tourism Nova Scotia / Acorn Art & Photography

Dennis Jarvis Dennis Jarvis

The Black Loyalist Heritage Centre in Shelburne was the home of the largest free Black settlement, when Loyalists travelled north across the American border to find freedom in Nova Scotia and fight against the United States. In the 1780s, with a population of more than

2,500, Birchtown, became the largest settlement of free Blacks outside Africa. This unique historical site is nestled in beautiful Birchtown Bay on the western shores of Shelburne Harbour.

Also, don’t forget Miller Point Peace Park, the Fort Point Lighthouse, Queens County Museum, the Milton Blacksmith Shop and The Ovens. And how can you pass up the Shag Harbour UFO Museum? Learn about these places and others at visitsouthshore.ca/ see-and-do

Have a nosh

Taste of Nova Scotia inspires culinary explorations. Its mobile app (tasteofnovascotia.com/taste-of-novascotia-mobile-app) will help you to find local road trips to discover wine country, or lead you to the perfect seafood chowder. Collect stamps in your downloaded digital passports for the Good Cheer Trail, Chowder Trail, and Lobster Trail.

Kids 12 & under are free!

Museum of the Atlantic in a UNESCO World Heritage site in the heart of old Lunenburg.

Tourism

Nova Scotia / Ryan Williams

Dennis Jarvis

Black Loyalist Heritage Centre. Below: Fort Point Lighthouse.

CANADA’S NATIONAL treasure

Every Canadian schoolchild knows that the front of the dime features the Bluenose, a historical sailing vessel from Lunenburg.

It launched on March 26, 1921 as a Grand Banks fishing and racing schooner. Capt. Angus Walters and the builders who crafted the sleek vessel had something to prove. Their sights were set on the International Fishermen’s Race. It was a real race for the hard-working vessels of fishermen who made their living on the sea. Nova Scotia’s pride and shipbuilding reputation sailed with the Bluenose.

From the moment Bluenose took to the sea, it was evident it was a unique vessel. When it took its first Fishermen’s Trophy in October 1921, the legend began. During the next 17 years, no challenger could wrest the trophy away. Bluenose earned the nickname “Queen of the North Atlantic” and became a Canadian icon.

Bluenose symbolized Nova Scotia’s prominence in the fishing and shipbuilding industries. It represented Canada around the world. In 1933, Bluenose appeared at the Century of Progress World’s Fair in Chicago, and sailed to the U.K. for the Silver Jubilee of King George V in 1935.

Bluenose wrecked on a reef off Isle aux Vache, Haiti on Jan. 28, 1946 but lived on in the hearts and minds of Nova Scotians. In 1963, Bluenose II launched, built by many of the same people who had worked on the original vessel at the same shipyard in Lunenburg. It continues to serve as Nova Scotia’s sailing ambassador — living history under sail.

The majestic image of the Bluenose has adorned the Canadian dime since 1937 as well as three postage stamps, plus the Nova Scotian licence plate. The Bluenose II sails from both Halifax and Lunenburg, and visitors can often join for a cruise under sail. Or if you’re really keen, sign on as a Deckhand for a Day.

Tourism Nova Scotia

Destination Canada Destination Canada

A land of festivals and fairs

While you’re exploring its food and history, and making acquaintance with the good folk of the South Shore, keep your eyes open for the many local fairs and festivals. In Liverpool, it’s Privateer Days, with a battle re-enactment, historical encampment, Rum Run, and live musical entertainment (June 25 and 26). Whether it’s Canada Day (July 1), the South Shore’s biggest Pride festival in Bridgewater (July 9 to 15), or the 47th Annual Lunenburg Craft & Food Festival (July 8), celebrations are everywhere. You’re sure to leave the South Shore with a newfound love for Nova Scotia, its places and its people.

S’more reasons for

around.sticking

To really experience the essence of Nova Scotia, you must stop and meet the people who live here. You’ll quickly find we’re a friendly group, always happy to stop to chat, and fill you in on all sorts of local tidbits and secrets that will make your trip truly memorable.

To the long list of excellent reasons for hanging around at White Point this summer, we add pickleball, Lakeside Glomes with private hot tubs, Oceanfront Treehouses, new menus, and nightly live music. Of course, we still have evening bonfires, Boathouse toys, cottages, meal plans, Atlantic surf, white sand, yoga, and sticks begging for a marshmallow. Come for a family vacay, romance, reunion, golf, grandparent time, ‘Me’ time, spa visits, or for absolutely no reason at all. Book today!

1.800.565.5068 whitepoint.com

Liverpool celebrates its history at Privateer Days. Right: The Lunenburg Craft and Food Festival.

OTHER BUCKET LISTS ‘PAIL’ BY COMPARISON.

IT’S NO SECRET THAT THE SOUTH SHORE IS A BEACH LOVER’S PARADISE – AND IT’S TIME TO DIG YOUR TOES IN SOME LESSER KNOWN SAND! EXPLORE OUR COASTLINE’S NOOKS AND CRANNIES BY BOAT, BIKE, HIKING BOOTS, OR MINI VAN – THEN HEAD INLAND TO PET SHEEP OR PADDLE. FILL UP ON WICKED GOOD SEAFOOD AND COLD LOCAL LIBATIONS, THEN WIND DOWN AT UNIQUE PLACES TO STAY. SPEND A DAY OR A WEEK, BUT LEAVE TIME FOR QUIRKY SHOPS AND THE FABULOUSLY UNEXPECTED.

DANIEL’S HEAD BEACH

PHOTO: JAKE BRENNER

Marvel and delight on Cape Breton

North America’s favourite island boasts fishing villages, the sprawling splendour of Cape Breton Highlands National Park, rich Indigenous history, the incomparable Cabot Trail — your heart will never leave

By Shelley Cameron-McCarron

Off-the-beaten path

For excellent kayaking in sheltered waters, the Isle Madame archipelago and Acadian communities on Cape Breton’s southeastern coast offer pad-

dlers peaceful coves and beaches. Rent kayaks at the Groundswell, an oceanfront pub and boutique inn where rooms are named after Beatles’ songs (Penny Lake, Yellow Submarine, Strawberry Fields) or

Vollmer’s Island Paradise where nature, and six log cottages, star. In Arichat, the Blacksmithing Experience at LeNoir Forge is sure to intrigue (think mini workshop and small souvenir) and don’t skip coffee and lunch at La Goélette à Pépé

If there was ever a case to take the road less travelled, Meat Cove is it. Many people travelling the Cabot Trail (that 298-kilometre masterpiece carved into mountains and skirting sea) drive by the road north to Bay St. Lawrence and Meat Cove, at Cape Breton’s northern tip. That’s a mistake. The curvy dirt road opens access to beautiful, wild landscape. Rugged, remote Meat Cove

Left: The Groundswell. Right: Meat Cove.

is home to splendid hiking, a cliffside campground, and the Meat Cove Chowder Hut. In Bay St. Lawrence, hop aboard with family-run Oshan Whale Watch, and nearby, trek showstopping scenery on the four-kilometre return Kauzmann Trail.

Indigenous experiences

Unama’ki (the Mi’kmaw word for Cape Breton), has been home to the native Mi’kmaq for millennia. Opportunities abound to explore this rich culture. Eskasoni Cultural Journeys shares that heritage with the art of basketry, traditional dance, and smudging ceremonies.

The drum-making workshop is a particular highlight at Membertou Heritage Park, which offers numerous hands-on experiences. Also in Membertou, the Medicine Walk is a fascinating exploration of the healing properties of many plants in the natural environment.

Parks Canada also offers experiences, including the Mi’kmaw Interpretive Centre at Fortress of Louisbourg, and Sharing Stories in Cape Breton Highlands National Park.

New and noteworthy

In Baddeck, the Cabot Trail’s western terminus, longtime operator Amoeba Tours, has a new vessel, the WinStar, plying briny Bras d’or Lake, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve where guests often spot bald eagles, and Beinn Breagh, the location of inventor Alexander Graham Bell’s former summer home.

Eskasoni Cultural Journeys.

Mi’kmaw Interpretive Centre at Louisbourg.

CAPE BRETON

Nearby, in Big Baddeck, Little Church Concerts provides an intimate setting in a former United church, with its Vicar’s View Venue bringing some of the region’s best to play.

Glamping has come to the Bras d’Or Lake’s southern shore, with Lakeside Luxury Domes offering new accommodations with private hot tubs, grills, and floor-to-ceiling windows.

In Margaree, the adventurers behind Live Life in Tents have a new “packcraft” rental — a portable lightweight inflatable boat that opens a new way to explore the Margaree River.

For more outdoor fun, TNT Outdoor Adventures promises “the Cape Breton you’ve never seen before” with all-terrain vehicle tours in the Cape Breton Highlands departing from its new base in Hunter’s Mountain on the Cabot Trail. And the nine-day cycling event Ride Cape Breton launches in July and will take cyclists over much of the island.

Tried and true

The Cabot Trail is a must-visit but it’s more than just a drive. To feel the heartbeat of these communities, to immerse

BRING CAPE BRETON HOME

yourself in hiking, whale watching, dining and exploring, plan to spend several days in the area.

The Cabot Trail also runs through majestic Cape Breton Highlands National Park, home to some of the region’s finest hiking trails. Favourites include Franey, Middle Head, and the Skyline Trail (the park’s signature trail, an accessible amble known for moose, bald

VISIT OUR GALLERY SHOP AT 322 CHARLOTTE STREET, SYDNEY, TO FIND QUALITY CRAFT BY MORE THAN 110 CAPE BRETON ARTISANS.

Above: Celtic roots at Highland Village. Bellow: Travel in time to New France at Louisbourg.

The Cabot Trail hugs Cape Breton’s rugged coast.

The 17th hole at Cabot Links offers an impressive coastal vista.

Tourism Nova Scotia

/ Corey Katz

Destination Cape Bretoon Association

Tourism Nova Scotia / Lora Pope

eagle and pilot whale spotting, ending on a dramatic headland). But they’re just the start. The park is home to 26 trails, each worth a wander, including the Acadian Trail, Broad Cove Mountain, and Mica Hill.

Around Ingonish, one can go up the gondola at Cape Smokey for mighty views, hiking and other mountaintop opportunities.

Golfers can hit the links at the worldranked courses at Cabot Cape Breton and Cape Breton Highlands Links Hands-on history forever wows at the Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site (where it’s always 1744 New France), Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site (showcasing inspiration and innovation), Baile nan Gàidheal | Highland Village (home to living Gaelic culture and breathtaking views over the Bras d’Or Lake), and Cape Breton Miners Museum (going underground with a retired miner.)

Festivals, food, and fun

Everyone loves a ceilidh (kitchen party) and one of the best for fans of traditional Celtic music is KitchenFest. Running June 30 to July 8, it kicks off summer with live shows at venues around Cape Breton.

There’s always great tunes too at Granville Green, a free, weekly outdoor concert series in Port Hawkesbury, and at the Makin’ Waves concert series in Sydney’s Wentworth Park.

In Glace Bay, the music, life, and legacy of Cape Breton’s own Rita MacNeil comes alive at the Savoy Theatre with Dear Rita running weekly from late August through September.

Dining delights abound. Look for amazing culinary experiences at Woodroad, Bitehouse, Periwinkle Café, and Gra. Continue the foodie fun at Fête du Chocolat at Fortress Louisbourg and the crowd-pleasing Sydney Rotary Ribfest, bringing in top North American barbecue competitors in July.

Destination Cape Bretoon Association / Adam Hill

Left: Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site. Right: Periwinkle Café.

Tourism Nova Scotia / Wally Hayes

Shannon MacIntyre (@eatwithshannon)

Hike & dine

The best from northern cliffs of Cape Breton to southern Acadian shores

By Trish Joudrey

People across the world have long travelled to Nova Scotia for our music, hospitality and unrivalled seafood. The hidden gems along our wilderness and coastal walks are now drawing more and more people. Explore with me some of Nova Scotia’s most spectacular trails paired with tastes of our local culinary delights.

Cape Breton Island

Just north of Ingonish Beach, at 49 Franey Mountain Road, the challenging seven and half kilometer Franey Mountain loop trailhead begins. Ascending three hundred metres up a tree-rooted and wooden stair path to the summit is worth the slog to view the stunning Cape Smokey and panoramic coastline views below. Post hike, reward yourself at the local favorite, Periwinkle Café, Ingonish, with an exceptional coffee, glass of wine or a wholesome, locally grown menu choice.

The easy, seven-kilometer loop Skyline Trail is a must before you leave Cape Breton National Park. “It’s a place where the sea meets the sky,” says avid hiker, Angela Chisholm. Starting at trailhead, 19713 Cabot Trail, Pleasant Bay, this gravel path and boardwalk hike along the coast, will take your breath away. Not from difficulty, but from the stunning views of the Cabot Trail and rugged coastline. Early mornings, you may be lucky to see a

moose. Grab a pre- or post-hike snack at the new L’Abri Cafe in Chéticamp. Meaning “shelter” in English, this is a place where friends gather to share stories and good food. Gluten free, vegan, and vegetarian dishes dot the delicious eclectic menu.

Northern Shore

One of the only hikes in Nova Scotia where the entire walk follows lake shores

Savouring the view on Franey Mountain. Middle: Periwinkle Cafe. Below: L’Abri Cafe in Chéticamp.

Tourism Nova Scotia / Corey Katz

Shannon MacIntyre (@eatwithshannon)

and Pugwash River estuary, is the aptly named, Peace Trail, starting at trailhead 5683 Thomson Rd, Pugwash Junction. The moderate seven-kilometer, shady path loop meanders through old-growth Acadian forest. Bring your camera for the seventy species of birds and waterfowl here, such as osprey, eagles, and perhaps a mink or two. Nearby, the place for homemade soups, chili, quiche or hot turkey sandwich, is Sheryl’s Bakery & Café, Durham Street, Pugwash. You’ll be hard pressed to resist desserts as the waft-

ing aromas of fresh cinnamon buns, pies and pastries greet you upon entering.

Rogart Mountain Trail, 221 Alex MacDonald Rd, Tatamagouche, is a dream hike. The undulating, six-kilometer trail loops through stands of sugar maples and old growth forest. It passes brooks, a waterfall, and every step of the way, signage explains the area’s history and ecology. A picnic at the 1129 summit overlooking Nuttby Mountain is unforgettable. Adjacent is the log restaurant, Sugar Moon Farm. It’s always a buzz of chatter from guests and the chefs behind the long open countertop. The menu boasts local ingredients, including Malagash Oysters, Nova Scotian roasted coffee, organic heritage flour, and of course, their signature product, maple syrup.

Eastern Shore

Top of the list is the untamed rugged, wind-swept coastal Headland and Spry Bay Trails, Taylor Head Provincial Park, 20140 Hwy. 7, Spry Bay. Don your hiking boots to amble through wooded paths, coastal barrens, and pristine shoreline. You might spot the elusive pitcher plant, iris or maybe a seal or two frolicking off the coast. There is no better place than the Henley House, Sheet Harbour, to replenish your calories after hiking. This

quaint restaurant will lure you in with homey pub fare, afternoon high teas and Thursday live music evenings.

The moderate nine-kilometer, inland Liscomb River Trail loop charms you with nature’s sights and sounds. Rushing river waters. High suspension bridge overlooking a fish ladder and salmon pools. Bunchberries, and May flowers. Trailhead starts behind cottage #10 at Liscombe Lodge, 2884 N.S. Trunk 7, Liscomb. For a killer breakfast according to owner Max MacDonald, stop at Beanie’s Bistro, Sherbrooke. Eat here where the local stamp of approval is on their fresh locally sourced ingredients and quality lattes and expressos.

Halifax Regional Municipality

Pennant Point trail loop is a coastal gem. The trailhead veers off the end of Crystal Crescent Beach, 223 Sambro Creek Rd., Sambro. This rugged, yet rewarding eleven-kilometer trail, is filled with stunning vistas from high sea cliffs. White-winged Scooter, Sheep Laurel, Marsh skullcap, and even American Cranberry have been spotted. Pack your bathing suit and swim at the one of three beaches.

Top: Hiking Pennant Point Trail. Below: Sugar Moon Café.

Trish Joudrey

Trish Joudrey

Tourism Nova Scotia / Jessica Emin

Pavia, Espresso Bar and Café, Herring Cove, a 20-minute drive from Crystal Crescent, is well worth the drive up the coast. Whether you sit on their spacious deck or inside, their locally sourced, “everything from scratch” menu items will be a hit.

Bluff Wilderness Trail is a must for experiencing the beauty of inland Nova Scotia. Located at 2890 St. Margaret’s Bay Rd., Timberlea, each of the four well-marked, eight-kilometer loops takes you further into serenity where you might glimpse a black bear or Eastern coyote. Pot Lake Loop, the first and most trodden trail, winds through stands of hemlocks, mixed woodlands, brooks, lakes, climbing to a stunning granite look-off with views of the ocean. The nearby Train Station Bike & Bean Café, Upper Tantallon, is the ideal stopping place to relax and grab a fresh panini, soup or coffee and pastry before or after your hike.

South Shore

For the best views over the south shore, hike up Castle Rock, East Chester. Access is from the parking lot near the junction of highways 3 and 329 in East River. After a three-kilometer stroll, the trailhead begins at the northern end of Labrador Lake. From there, it’s an easy two-hour hike, except for the last scramble up the Castle Rock summit. The three trails, yellow, blue and red, all lead to breath-taking panoramic views of Tancook Island, Chester and Mahone Bay. Watch for eagles and listen for raven calls on your way through wooded paths around lakes, and over heather barrens. Seaside Shanty, East Chester is a local favourite. Within minutes after hiking Castle Rock, you can be sitting on their sea-facing deck eating fresh oysters, calamari, rainbow trout or sampling their renowned seafood chowder.

Gaff Point Hike, Kingsburg, is a walk into paradise. Stroll the pristine white sand of Hirtle’s Beach, to start this seven and half kilometer hike, 318 Hirtle Beach Rd., Kingsburg. Prepare to be wowed; high cliff plateaus, contorted weather-beaten tree trunks, a secret beach, spectacular sea views, and serene fernlined forested paths. Watch for Lady’s Slipper, Black Crowberry, Sheep’s Laurel, American Cranberry. Rose Bay General Store and Bistro, a family run, laid-back community hub, is en route to Hirtle’s Beach. Sit inside or out and enjoy the friendly ambience while sipping on fresh soup, or munching on a Scotian (lobster) salad, fish burger, lobster roll or pizza.

Yarmouth, Acadian Shore, and Valley

The iconic Cape Split Trail, located in Scot’s Bay on Hwy. 358 North, has seven designated lookoffs— ample opportunity to savour the incredible vistas across Minas Basin and Scots Bay. Rest up at Cape Split’s grassy plateau summit with towering cliffs dropping vertically to the sea below. This is where you can touch the sky. Long Table Social Club is the ideal place to dine and recharge after Cape Split. Catering specifically to hikers by day, they offer take-out or dine-in gourmet sandwiches and salads.

Spot waterlilies, beavers, birds or skunk cabbage—the earliest flowering native plant in Nova Scotia, on Van Tassel Lake Trail, 859 Culloden Rd., Digby. This moderately challenging five-to seven-kilometer wilderness trail network offers look-off views, forest trails, lake, reservoir, dam, waterfall, a beaver of two, and plenty of benches to rest. The Crow’s Nest, a quirky little restaurant, minutes from Van Tassel Lake, boasts the best scallops in Digby. Apart from their fresh seafood dishes, the views overlooking the Digby’s scallop fleet on their small patio are worth the stop.

Above: Sylvan splendour on the Rogart Mountain Trail. Below: Cape Split

Seaside Shanty

Above: Train Station Bike & Bean Café.

Left: Exploring the Bluff Wilderness trail. Trish Joudrey

Where Doers Stay

At Rodd Grand Yarmouth, we know you want to explore and do all you can while on vacation – and a good night’s rest is the best start to the day.

With the comfiest of beds, our own Gale’s Eatery featuring authentic homemade local cuisine, a pool, a gym and the friendliest team ready to host you, we are the perfect addition to your Nova Scotia plans.

A new definition of hospitality

Nova Scotia’s food and beverage industry sets the table for more welcoming and sustainable spaces

By Crystal Murray

Janna

and Patricia Dellapinna know what it feels like to be the subject of discrimination. They say that, as a queer couple, they understand the importance of creating environments where everyone feels a sense of belonging.

“We both work in white male dominated industries,” says Janna, a former nurse, now brewer and co-owner of the Truro Brewing Company. Patricia, Janna’s partner in life and business, is an engineer, another male-dominated profession.

“There are a lot of mainstream ideas about what a bar should be and the atmosphere for a business like this should be. We wanted to make a space that is not just welcoming for the queer community but for all visible minorities,” says Patricia.

When the business opened three years ago, they posted a code of conduct in the tap room. This spring they took the code further and worked with a consultant to develop a set of house rules and a mission statement for staff that is entrenched in diversity, equity, and inclusion.

Their rules, both online and on site, say that the business is queer-owned and queer-friendly. They won’t tolerate discrimination, hate speech, symbols of hate, harassment, violence, smoking, drugs, or weapons.

The couple have received a lot of positive feedback and thanks from customers, regardless of how they identify.

“While restaurants are doing more to more to promote what makes them unique with their dining experiences and offerings, establishments like the Truro Brewing Company are talking about their inclusivity experience,” says Heather Boucher, social-media manager with the Restaurant Association of Nova Scotia (RANS).

The organization is seeing more businesses putting the real work into diversity and inclusion.

“It’s so much more than a smile and good service,” adds Natasha Chesnutt, RANS’s administration manager. “You just can’t just slap a sticker on your door and say that you are a welcoming place. No more can you just say that you are doing something. You have to show people.”

Danielle Doucette, the association’s research and marketing assistant, believes the first signs of inclusivity emerged in the last five years with the growing demand and popularity for gender-neutral restrooms. “There is a

whole new definition of hospitality,” she says.

Lorne Caborn, of Crab Apple Cookery in Seabright, takes that commitment to change seriously.

He respects the work being done in diversity and inclusion but he also has sees his role in making the restaurant business more eco-friendly.

“I am a Master Composter Recycler,” laughs Caborn, explaining that he completed a five-week Halifax Regional Municipality certification in recycling and waste reduction.

When Caborn opened his business with wife Rachelle Brown in September 2021 they offered cloth take-out bags to customers. Caborn’s mother-inlaw makes the bags from scrap fabric and has been keeping the cookery stocked. While not every costumer accepts the handmade cloth bags, some opt for paper because they say the bags are too nice, Caborn says that they have given out hundreds of bags that customers can reuse.

“I think a lot of people just hear the cash register ring when they think they must invest in sustainable practices, but that’s not always true,” he adds. “There is an ethical reason to all of this: we are just borrowing this planet from future generations.”

While Truro Brewing Co. transforms craft beer, Crab Apple Cookery champions sustainability.

Crab Apple Cookery aims to make the restaurant industry greener.

Bruce Murray, VisionFire

Bruce Murray, VisionFire

Bruce Murray, VisionFire

Submitted

Tour and sip

You’ll find more than just spirits at Nova Scotia’s growing number of distilleries

By Lori McKay

Distillery owner Lynne MacKay has advice for Nova Scotian travellers this summer. When you visit one of the province’s many local distilleries, ask to see the stills.

“We all have quirky names for our distilling equipment, and we love to talk about them,” she laughs. “If you come see us at Ironworks, you will meet Bergitta, our original gal in the front shop. And then you’ll find Ruby, who’s our beautiful big piece of new distilling equipment, out in the new extension.”

MacKay and husband Pierre Guevremont first opened Ironworks Distillery in Lunenburg 14 years ago. They were one of the first “out of the gate” with a local distillery, and a lot has changed in the industry since then. “Nobody knew what the heck we were doing in 2009.”

Today, she’s also president of the Distillers Association of Nova Scotia, which started in 2016 and has 13 members. “It’s terrific. Most of them are full members, which means they have a still and its product right here in the province. The big push is now on local, local, local.”

Travelling around the province and visiting the different distilleries is a popular pastime for tourists and staycationers alike. Each distiller

offers a unique experience, like Cherry Tree Distillery’s speakeasy in Windsor, Boatskeg Distilling Co.’s cocktail bar in Lower West Pubnico, and Barrelling Tide’s popular tastings and retail shop in Port Williams.

Steinhart Distillery in Arisaig offers spirits plus a true Nova Scotian nature experience. In addition to the tasting bar and seasonal restaurant, it has rental cottages with hot tubs. “We also have a million-dollar view,” says owner Thomas Steinhart, noting the view of Arisaig

wharf on the Northumberland shore. “We have miles and miles of hiking and biking trails right from here, and we’re just a hop and a skip to the beach.”

Black Harbour Distillers Inc. in Hubbards has live music matinees every weekend year-round. “We pretty much fill the seats every Saturday,” says owner Jamie Landry. It also offers flights and a cocktail menu, allowing customers to sample the blended spirits and buy bottles to go.

Ironworks in Lunenburg is at the forefront of Nova Scotia’s distilling revolution.

Tourism Nova Scotia / Cailin O’Neil

Local flavour

With so many amazing, award-winning spirits coming out of the province, cocktail options are endless. Many local distilleries share cocktail recipes on their websites.

“When it comes to what’s new, it’s the fabulous young mixologists who are doing really nifty stuff with Nova Scotia-made spirits,” says MacKay. “They are creating interesting combinations that are endlessly variable because they’re not put in a bottle, they’re put in a glass.”

But a bottle is also a great place to find a uniquely local flavour, with most

Black Harbour’s sunny patio is a summer favourite.

Local spirits give classic cocktails and signature drinks a twist with their unique flavour profiles and regional stories.

Tourism Nova Scotia / @daveyandsky

Tourism Nova Scotia / James Ingram

distilleries sourcing ingredients from around the province: cranberries, blueberries, apples, rhubarb, grains, herbs, spices, and botanicals.

Unique flavours are the goal.

Ironworks offers rum aged in the renovated hull of a boat that floats in the Lunenburg Harbour.

“We’ve been using it for about seven years, except for one brief period when it went on the rocks. We call that one Shipwrecked rum,” MacKay laughs, adding the wreck happened during a nasty gale in the winter of 2018. The boat was badly damaged but not a drop of rum spilled. “The whole thing of aging spirits of any kind in the ocean creates a different flavour profile, which is kind of fun.”

She says the stills themselves also impart different flavours.

“Ask us questions when you visit a local distillery,” says MacKay. “It’s interesting to see how we do what we do. And ask about the differences in the shape and background of the still, because that will have an influence on the flavour.”

She says both Bergitta and Ruby are beautiful old copper stills from Germany; Bergitta being one of the only woodfired stills in operation in Canada. Other distilleries have ordered theirs from Germany, France, China, the U.S, and points beyond.

She notes that the owners of Still Fired Distilleries, Owen Ritchie and Andrew Cameron, have particularly distinctive stills, which they named Kirby and Morgan. “They physically built them here in Nova Scotia. And that’s completely unique.”

MacKay is also a big supporter of Taste of Nova Scotia’s Good Cheer Trail (goodcheertrail.com), which promotes local producers and includes a map of the province’s wineries, craft breweries, meaderies, cideries and distilleries.

“The paper version is actually more popular than the app,” says MacKay. “People love that little thing in their hand. They hold it out and they want you to put your stamp on it. It’s like they want this little talisman of ‘I’ve been here, and I did this.’”

Top: Barrelling Tide is making Port Williams a craft-drink destination.

Middle: Boatskeg has ignited a cocktail scene in Lower West Pubnico.

Bottom: Go behind the scenes on an Authentic Seacoast distillery tour.

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Stepping out

You can’t beat these small-town Nova Scotian pathways for walkers, gawkers, riders, rollers, and perambulators of every variety

By Alec Bruce

Notlong ago, American author and Time magazine Humorist of the Year David Sedaris wrote about living in the English countryside and receiving his first Fitbit in the mail. “10,000 steps, I learned, amounts to a little more than four miles (6.4 kilometres). That sounds like a lot, but you can cover that distance over the course of an average day without even trying, especially if you have stairs in your house and a steady flow of people who regularly knock, wanting you to accept a package or give them directions, or just listen patiently as they talk about birds.” Or you could just close the door, sneak out the back way, and go for a stroll.

Of all the pleasures that small Nova Scotian towns offer, nothing beats their lovely places for perambulating. Likely, you won’t need a Fitbit to tell you when it’s time to turn around. To go anywhere, there and back, 10,000 steps — or the rolling equivalent — ought to cover it.

There’s the decidedly (and deservedly) famous sidewalks and pathways of Digby, Wolfville, Antigonish, New Glasgow, Chester, Sydney, and Baddeck. There’s the almost-famous “four corners” of Bridgetown in the Annapolis Valley, where crafty locals selling everything from art to underwear will ply you with bespoke coffee before sending you on your way.

Still, if you’ve heard of Peggy’s Cove, have you heard of Prospect? No? Many who have been to the peninsula, with Prospect Bay on one side and Shad Bay on the other, say it’s just as nice and not as crowded. Also, the glacial moraine there forms a perfect path along High Head Trail to the sun-downy sea.

Also under the radar is Sherbrooke in Guysborough County at the far end of the Eastern Shore. Some people might call it a “manufactured village,” owing to its authentically restored 19th-century streetscape and costumed

Digby Pier Lighthouse.

New Glasgow’s boardwalk is ideal for a summer amble.

Tourism Nova Scotia / Aaron McKenzie Fraser

Tourism Nova Scotia / Acorn Art & Photography

Tourism Nova Scotia / Titus and Matt Burton

Dennis Jarvis

Historic Wolfville offers an ideal summer stroll.

historical interpreters. It’s a marvelous place to gambol and gawk on a warm summer night when you know the nearest movie theatre in Antigonish is 62 kilometres away. Stroll past the old print shop and blacksmiths or take a short hike down to the mighty St. Mary’s River where Babe Ruth once went to cast for a fish.

LaHave, on the province’s South Shore, is another little-known, people-powered paradise — too-often overshadowed by its more famous civic cousins, Lunenburg and Mahone Bay (which cannot lay claim to owning one of the province oldest continuously operated cable ferries). In fact, the Municipality of Lunenburg likes to brag about the nearby LaHave Bakery’s “delicious brunch.” Located in the same building are the LaHave Craft Co-op, LaHave River Books, and Homegrown Skateboards. Meanwhile, West Cote Bell Pottery makes one-of-a-kind tableware, tiles, sinks, and sculptures.

At the right time of day, in the right

Dart Lodge

mood, Nova Scotian cities can also feel like small towns, especially if you’re from New York or London. Be on your way, down their waterfronts, past their wharves and moorings and stumpy landings. Conjure the past and muse about the future past the wine-coloured horizon. Better pack your Fitbit. This may take a while.

Dennis Jarvis

Top: Explore life as it once was in Sherbrooke Village. Right: Discover local talents at the Heart to Hand Creative Arts Studio in LaHave.

Darcy Rhyno