ST O M HE FT 11 O
P
O W ER FU LS ITE S IN
INDONESIA
E. SID L IDIATI UA T I SARI W R & I N P R S DIRA U YO ARA CE A H R A EMB D A RV A BY
main feature
Pura Batu Bolong, Lombok
there’s no mistaking the fact that the aura surrounding this temple is highly religious and sacred. supported by a black cliff that hangs over the beach in the Batu Layar Beach area of senggigi on the well-known island of Lombok, Pura Batu Bolong represents part of a sacred journey made by a pastor from east Java, namely dang Hyang dwijendra, who once travelled through Java and Bali. anyone wishing to enter the temple is required to tie a yellow sash around their waist. there are two temples here in fact. the first is located under a shady tree that can only be reached by descending
136
g a r ud a ma ga z i ne a u g u s t 2 0 1 1
a flight of stairs. the second temple sits on a rock which stands approximately four feet tall and is pocked with holes. the holes inspired the temple’s name of Pura Batu Bolong (the temple of Holey stone). this temple is believed, by the local Hindu community, to be a transmitter of spiritual peace, calmness and serenity, although it is always buffeted by the sound of the violently crashing waves below.
Gua Safar Wadi, Tasikmalaya
Caves are always fascinating places full of great unknowns and mystery, and offer the ultimate in subterranean adventure. gua safar Wadi (safar Wadi Cave) however,
which is located in the relatively secluded village of Pamijahan, in the sub-district of Bantarkalong in the West Javanese town of tasikmalaya, is no regular cave. in fact, it is the site where sheikh abdul muhyi is said to have single-handedly battled and defeated the dark forces of black magic. muhyi is a relatively obscure figure at a national level but is quite well-known in West Java. according to legend, the former regent of sukapura, Wiradadaha iV, r. subamanggala, invited sheikh abdul muhyi, already an accomplished islamic missionary in West Java, to come and combat the rampant black magic in the village, which had spawned various robberies, thefts and other crimes. many people had used the cave as a hermitage or meditation place in order to further develop their black magic powers, so sheikh abdul muhyi promptly moved into the cave, defeated the heretics and then decided to continue living there for the remainder of his life. after his death, Pamijahan became increasingly popular as numerous believers, mainly from West Java, made pilgrimages to the cave to honour the sheikh.
FROM TOP: Pura Batu Bolong in Lombok; Pura Parahyangan Agung Jagatkartta, which is built on a site where Prabu Siliwangi was last seen.
Pura Parahyangan Agung Jagatkartta, Bogor
Who would’ve thought that it was possible to find a piece of Bali as far away as Bogor? indeed, despite the regency’s recent inter-religious spat, the fact remains that the Land of sunda houses one of indonesia’s last remaining, grandest and largest Hindu temples to exist outside of the island of gods. this temple’s pre-eminence is such that many have come to relate Pura Parahyangan agung Jagatkartta, or the grand Jagatkartta Parahyangan temple, with Pura Besakih, Bali’s most iconic and revered place of worship. those familiar with the stories and mystique surrounding the country’s temples have claimed that Pura Besakih’s element is air, whereas Pura Parahyangan’s element is earth—and that together the pair form a yin and yang relationship. Hindu faithful from all over the archipelago come to the temple to pay their respects to Prabu siliwangi, the legendary king of the Pajajaran Kingdom. Construction on the temple began in 1995 at the site where it is believed Prabu siliwangi was last seen. Prabu siliwangi was the most popular king of the ancient sundanese Pajajaran Kingdom, a once vast and powerful Hindu kingdom that ruled from
a u g u s t 2 0 1 1 g aru da m a g a zine
137
main feature
669 to 1579 and which encompassed much of presentday Banten, Jakarta, West Java and the western part of Central Java.
Sunan Ampel Mausoleum, Surabaya
Sunan Ampel was perhaps the best-known of the nine socalled Wali Songo or the nine Islamic saints of Indonesia who were responsible for spreading Islam throughout the country. It is no wonder then that while the graves of the Wali Songo are highly venerated sites of pilgrimage in the country, the tomb of Sunan Ampel itself is the most popular of all and is a hugely popular spot the year round. Sunan Ampel’s mausoleum is located inside the Ampel mosque complex in Surabaya, which is one of the oldest and most crowded mosques in the city. The mausoleum can be found in the mosque’s west building, and is a relatively modest affair which is separated from the other tombs in the complex by a steel fence. The sepulchre was constructed from four stacks and on its south side, a short text about the Wali is engraved in Latin. The tombstone itself is shaped like a lotus leaf, a choice which pays homage to a period that saw a transition from Hinduism and Buddhism to Islam in the country. Ampel Mosque is located not far from the port of Tanjung Perak, which lies around four kilometres away.
138
g Ar u d A MA g Az I ne A u g u S T 2 0 1 1
Pura Tamblingan, Bali
While there are plenty of temples in Bali, none is quite like Pura Tamblingan, a beautiful Balinese house of worship set next to a small, traditional farming village at Lake Tamblingan. Lake Tamblingan is located on the northern slopes of Mount Lesung in the sub-district of Banjar in Buleleng. Tamblingan Temple is actually one of the many temples (there are at least 11 large ones) that lie in the surrounding area, and the main attractions of this beautiful spot are not only its natural charms, but also the temples themselves, which are steeped in the history of Balinese civilisation and culture. The name Tamblingan derives from two words in Balinese, namely tamba, which means “drug”, and elingang, which means “to remember” or “spiritual means”. According to ancient records, the area’s community was at one time affected by an outbreak of epidemics. In an attempt to solve the problem, someone who had first been purified, went down to the lake by the village to collect some water, which was purported to contain medicine. Incredibly, they were saved and thus Tamblingan got its name.
Gua Maria, Bangka Island
Among the various Mary caves in Indonesia, the one in Belinyu on the island of Bangka is perhaps the largest and
most uniquely beautiful. Hidden up in the hills on an island best known for its natural tin deposits, the Belinyu Lady of All Nations Prayer Cave encompasses OPPOSITE PAGE: The Sunan Ampel a tale of perseverance, faith and mosque's interior. generosity. It all began back in 1988, when Pastor W.H. Lambregts, SS. CC and his local parishioners embarked on a long and arduous search to look for a new place of worship. Finally, a kind family donated its patch of land to the men of God and construction on the prayer cave finally began in earnest on February 8, 1997. Work had to be halted several times due to the Asian Financial Crisis of 1997, as well as several changes of leadership, however the cave was eventually completed and officially blessed on December 8, 1999 by the diocese of Pangkalpinang, to coincide with the Feast of Patron Parish Belinyu. FROM TOP: Pura Tamblingan in Buleleng; Mary Cave in Belinyu.
Bukit Doa Getsemani, Ungaran
Bukit Doa Getsemani, or the Gethsemane Prayer Hill (www.bukitdoagetsemani.org), is a popular religious tourist attraction for those of the Christian faith. Located in the suburbs of Semarang, in the town of Ungaran, the park encompasses a large area of 33,100 metres square or
A U G U S t 2 0 1 1 G Ar U D A m A G A zIN e
139
main feature
about 3.5 hectares. despite the fact that the park is a fully-fledged, religious tourist attraction with a professional management, it mercifully has not tried to become something that it is not by emulating the real garden of gethsemane. Obviously, Christian pilgrims do make their way here to pray and to meditate. as far as the park is concerned though, its vision, as quoted in its official website, is to become, “a House of Prayer for all nations”. this means that the park is open to all, even those of no faith at all who are seeking, “a special place to conquer their fears and demons, to pray and to meditate, to praise and worship god and to seek god’s will in quiet and peaceful surroundings.” Like its Biblical namesake, which is located at the foot of the mount of Olives, Bukit doa getsemani is also located at the foot of a mountain (mount ungaran). ungaran offers visitors a cool, tranquil and peaceful atmosphere. the park was first inaugurated in late 1970 after samuel elkana, a man of god, had decided to build a dedicated site of worship for all indonesians. although his journey was not easy, he eventually succeeded in his quest
140
g a r ud a ma ga z i ne a u g u s t 2 0 1 1
at an old german zendeling (missionary) post in ungaran. the gethsemane Prayer Hill was thus born and became indonesia’s first dedicated prayer site.
Masjid Raya Sultan Riau, Penyengat
at first glance, masjid raya sultan riau, or the grand mosque of sultan riau, looks structurally similar to any other islamic house of worship, but upon closer inspection you’ll discover something completely unique. the story goes that in 1 shawwal 1248 aH (or 1832 ad), Yang dipertuan-muda raja abdurrahman-sultan Kerajaan riau called on his people to work together to build the mosque. the subsequent donations made for the construction of the mosque consisted mainly, and rather strangely, of
PhOTOGRaPh: Jan dEkkER (3), JOSUa aLESSandRO (1), FadIL azIz (2)
FROM LEFT: The gate of the Umbul Jumprit in Temanggung; The main entrance of the Grand Mosque of Sultan Riau on Penyengat Island.
eggs. during this period, people only used to eat egg yolks and dispose of the whites, and so the mosque’s indian and singaporean architects decided to use the unwanted egg whites as adhesive in their cement and sand! the 50 cm-thick mosque was eventually completed and, to this day, still stands majestically with nary a crack. try to imagine though, when you’re standing inside this bright yellow structure, that this ancient mosque is at least partially made from eggs! the mosque’s architecture displays elements of malay, Chinese and indian styles. Four immense pillars provide the main support for this grand mosque and outside, four towers stand guard over its east, west, north and south sides. in addition, there are 13 domes built in different shapes—and so the total number of towers and
domes comes to 17, which is the number of obligatory prayers that have to be said in one day. masjid raya sultan riau is located on Penyengat island in the riau islands.
Umbul Jumprit, Temanggung
On the slopes of mount sindoro, in temanggung in Central Java, there lies a patch of land that supports a small structure which architecturally resembles a relic from the ancient majapahit Kingdom of mojokerto in east Java. the relic dates back hundreds of years and is considered sacred, because the umbul Jumprit spring also flows here. umbul Jumprit has never run dry, even during times of drought, and the water is cool and refreshing, and is still used by the locals for various purposes, including for the procession that
a u g u s t 2 0 1 1 g aru d a m a g a zine
141
happens during the famous trisuci Vesak ceremony. For indonesian Buddhists, this ceremony is one of the most important events in the calendar, and commonly takes place down at the iconic Borobudur temple. umbul Jumprit is highly revered, as it is believed that the spring is holy and a source of boundless blessings, and local Buddhists gather water from the spring three days prior to the annual Vesak celebrations. the waters of umbul Jumprit are believed to grant eternal life and fortune, and to nullify bad luck, and so it is no wonder that so many visitors take the time to bathe in its pond and even to meditate in it. FROM LEFT: Statue of the Lady of All Nations; The ancient tomb of Siguntang Hill.
Lady of All Nations, Maumere
maumere’s approximately 28-metre-high bronze statue of the Lady of all nations, or the revered Virgin mary, is often touted as indonesia’s version of rio de Janeiro’s worldfamous Christ the redeemer. in 2006, quite a ripple ran through the community when, during stormy weather, the statue broke off at its base and fell to the ground. Virtually all of the city’s residents and local churches took this as a sign that the predominantly Catholic community needed to repent, an interpretation compounded by the fact that
142
g a r ud a ma ga z i ne a u g u s t 2 0 1 1
Bukit Siguntang, Palembang
Located on the northern banks of the musi river at an altitude of 27 metres above sea level (higher than the surrounding areas of Palembang), Bukit siguntang (siguntang Hill) is regarded by the local community to be a sacred place. in the era of sriwijaya, siguntang was revered by Buddhists, and was once also home to around 1,000 pastors. siguntang Hill also has a history rich in archaeological discoveries. two seventh-century inscriptions were discovered here in 1920, namely the Kedukan Bukit, which was inscribed in 682 ad, and the talang tuwo, which was inscribed in 684 ad. also, on the hill’s southern slopes, a statue of Buddha was discovered that was thought to date back to the eleventh century. this statue has now been placed in the sultan mahmud Badaruddin ii museum. at the top of the hill sits an ancient tomb that is considered sacred by the local population, namely the tomb of sigentar alam. the tomb has become a place of pilgrimage, and other surrounding tombs are believed to hold the ancestors of the Palembang people.
PHOTOgRAPH: yudASMORO (1), ANTON HENdRAwA (1), dES SyAFRizAL (2), NOvANi NugRAHANi (1), AHMAd SubAidi (2).
its twin statue in maumere, the Christ the King statue, did not fall, even though it was also buffeted by the storm. Furthermore, the same statue had remained unscathed when an earthquake measuring 6.8 on the richter scale shook the town in 1992. in 2007, the Lady of all nations made even bigger headlines when it was reported that she had actually changed direction on her pedestal—mysteriously and without human intervention. Within minutes of this news breaking, thousands of people took to the streets to bear witness to this amazing phenomenon themselves. the statue of Our Lady of all nations was built by Passionist Father gabrielle antonelli and was erected in august 2004 with the help of donations from local Catholics and others.