1 minute read
Choose Gray
from The Link Issue 38
by The AHLC
By Lisa Ferestad, Cura Hair Solutions, Atlanta, GA
I have found a faster alternative to custom ordering, ordering stock systems created with 100% hand-picked gray. This allows me to treat the hair as a blank canvas while shortening my client’s wait time to three weeks.
Here is an example of my process...
My client’s desired color outcome was an overall level 7, with level 8 highlights having some natural gray highlights showing through. One of the benefits of using a gray base is that if you need gray in the end all you have to do is foil out the percentage of gray you want to be left and color around it.
During the consultation, I match my client’s hair to color swatches in my studio to build my color road map. This helps me with both my color choices and when I adjust my color formulas after the test strands have dried.
Please take the time to do test strands to find the best formula. I often do three or four test strands in an area on the system that can be hidden easily, usually in the back away from the perimeter of the hair. This allows you the option to blend in the test strand if you are not happy with the results.
Starting with the blank canvas,
100% human hair in platinum gray from Sherri Renée.
First pass, foiled in the mid-tone. Formula: 1/2
Neutral level 8
1/4
8G (gold)
1/4
8A (ash) When working with hair that has no pigment, balance the formula by adding neutral, warm, and cool tones.
In the second step, I added the lowlight
to create depth. The end result is a perfect match for my client’s hair. We are all ready for the cut-in.