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The Link The Voice of the AHLC
ISSUE 13 • 2015
30TH ANNIVERSARY ISSUE A RETROSPECTIVE FROM THE ONES WHO MADE IT ALL HAPPEN: 4 Message from the Board 6 Mike Mahoney, AHLC Founder 9 Peggy Thornhill, President 10 Your Current Board Members 13 Leigh Gardner 14 Dr. Carlos Puig, Past President 18 AHLC Timeline At-a-Glance 23 Jackie Donovan, Past President 24 On Rite/Hairvisions 26 New Image 28 IHI 30 Dimples 33 Greg Taylor, Past President 34 Anthony Santangelo, Past President 34 Welcome Our New Members
Subscriptions to The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are mailed FREE to members of the AHLC within the continental United States. International members are provided digital copies free. Please contact us for additional shipping rates if you are an AHLC member outside the US and wish to receive a printed edition. Non-member subscription price: $60 annually within the continental United States, $85 International. To become a member, renew your membership, or subscribe to The Link as a non-member, please contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to www.AHLC.org. The Link Issue 13, Spring 2015 3
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
MESSAGE FROM THE AHLC BOARD
It’s our 30th Anniversary! by Susan Kettering, Executive Director
The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council is the official, quarterly publication of the American Hair Loss Council. For information on advertising or contributing to content, please contact us: The American Hair Loss Council 30 South Main, Shenandoah, PA 17976 855.445.9509 or info@ahlc.org
We, the members of the Board of Directors of the American Hair Loss Council, are so pleased over the tremendous progress we have made over the last 30 years. We continue to work together toward even more lofty goals, as the founder of the AHLC, Mike Mahoney envisioned when he presided over our very first meeting thirty years ago.
The Link Staff:
We have grown from a core group of individuals who worked diligently to achieve recognition for our industry to a multi-functioning organization that plays a major role in the arena of hair replacement.
Barbara Jenssen, Executive Secretary, HLCFW, Danbury, CT
Managing Editor: Janine Thornhill Design and Layout: Thornhill Creative, www.thornhillcreative.com Creative Director: Terrell Thornhill
Thanks to Our Contributors: Leigh Gardner, National Sales Manager, Capilia Group, Pompano Beach, FL Debrorah Long, Owner, An Eye For Content, Houston TX Carlos Puig, DO, Physicians’ Hair Restoration Center, Houston, TX
Over the years, we have watched manufacturers grow in number while sharing their knowledge of new products and techniques, thus giving a tremendous impetus to our industry. Our membership has also grown! We already have 24 participating manufacturers in our annual conference in Ft. Lauderdale. What an achievement!
Anthony Santangelo, AMS Designs, Chicago, IL
This issue of The Link is very different.
Doug Spike, Business Development & Education Manager, International Hair Goods, Chanhassen, MN
In the following pages, we will focus on what makes our organization strong, vibrant and like none other in our industry. It’s our dedicated members that undergird the industry with support, information and products that focus on the main goal, serving our clients. You will hear from many of our past presidents and take a stroll down memory lane with a few of our member vendors. You will read about where we came from, trials and tribulations we’ve withstood and you will hear this first-hand from experience. It is our sincere desire that as you hear from these individuals and connect with their stories you will see yourself, and realize that you are also an integral part of our industry’s history. It is so wonderful to be a part of an organization and an industry that helps so many. As members we have grown together, learned from each other and supported each other.
Here’s to another 30 years! Happy Anniversary to US ALL! 4 The Link Issue 13, Spring 2015
Michael Mahoney, Positive Hair Systems, Tyler, TX Rhonda McCarthy, VP Strategy and Business Development, On Rite, Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Greg Taylor, Owner, Taylormade Hair Replacement, Millbrae, CA Bijan Todd, President, Dimples, Los Angeles, CA
AHLC Board of Directors: Peggy Thornhill, President Marsha Scott, Vice President Susan Kettering, Executive Director Betty Ann Bugden, Treasurer/Membership Director Joseph Ellis, Board Member Laura Cole, Board Member
th The opinions expressed in The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the American Hair Loss Council. The advertisements in The Link do not necessarily reflect the beliefs, opinions or attitudes of the AHLC and does not imply product or service endorsement. The American Hair Loss Council © All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Published for the AHLC by Thornhill Creative. www.thornhillcreative.com
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The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Special 30th Anniversary Edition
Creating a Vision & a Name
My Motivation to Form the AHLC
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AHLC FOUNDER & PA S T PRESIDENT
by Mike Mahoney, Founder of the American Hair Loss Council and Past President
F
irst I will have to get in character and put on my big hair, my doublebreasted, pin-striped suit. Next, put Michael Jackson’s “Thriller” on the stereo, put up Ronald Reagan’s photo and go rent the 1984 hit “Ghostbusters” OK. I’m there. It’s 1984.
Our original logo, 1984
THE EIGHTIES: OUT OF THE DARKNESS Without education, we are all in the dark and darkness is opportunity time for the predators. EDUCATION is the light source that sends the unscrupulous roaches scurrying out in all directions. The public did not have the Internet or access to a “Consumer Report” type source of information on restoring hair. This made it easy for predators, who promised men a full head of hair as natural as their own, to advertise a medical breakthrough that simply turned out to be a hairpiece sutured to the scalp. Late night TV was flooding the airwaves with cosmetic products promising hair growth like New Generation that had absolutely no chance of rendering results. Yes, some unscrupulous physicians were involved too! Offering barbaric procedures such as arterial ligations to end hair loss. The invasion was on, in full force. Many in the media were too lazy to do actual research and were often just as vulnerable as the public as to truths about hair restoration. (This 6 The Link Issue 13, Spring 2015
would confuse the public even more.) After helping individuals with all types of hair loss, it didn’t take a genius to know that what I and other non-surgical specialists were doing made not only the people we served feel good about themselves but it made us feel appreciated. I was proud of what I was able to offer, so why should I (and other ethical hair restoration specialists) be mixed in with all of these unscrupulous predators? After all, we offered REAL results and without risks! Those who are veterans in the industry will remember that 30 years ago hair replacement (non-medical) specialists were not involved in hair transplant surgery. There were no lasers. Hairpiece specialists did not offer other therapies targeted at hair loss and thinning hair. Medical specialists did not work with non-medical specialists. Just as the
public was not aware of natural appearing hairpieces, hairpiece designers were not aware of natural appearing transplant surgeries that were starting to surface by talented surgeons such as Dr.’s Walter Unger and Emanuel Marritt. Consequently, many hairpiece designers would bad-mouth ALL transplants and many transplant doctors would bad-mouth ALL hairpieces. So not only was there negative views coming from outside the profession but also from within. These were a few of the factors that I discussed with colleagues Bill Biesecker and Frank Prasek outside of Houston, Texas back in 1984. I was fortunate enough to have Bill as my Vice President and Frank as treasurer. Frank’s late wife, Irene, volunteered to take care of accounting. And just like the rest of the board, did so without a salary. Next on the agenda was putting together a medical board of advisors. I could not have been more fortunate than to have Dr. Richard Fleming and Dr. Emanuel Marritt as my surgical advisors and Dr. David Whiting as my dermatological advisor. No organization forges forward without a great team and these individuals along with others, did phenomenal, unselfish work on behalf of the AHLC. Photo from 1984
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The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Special 30th Anniversary Edition
Very little research and emphasis on hair loss was being focused on in dermatologic training and continued education at that time. Most well-trained hair stylists knew little about hair loss but knew more than many dermatologists. It wasn’t until the prescription drug Rogaine (approved in 1988) entered the market that dermatology clinics began to have more mainstream curriculum available on hair loss. I wish the AHLC success as we continue in further educating practitioners as well as the public. Mike has been in hair replacement in some form since 1961. As owner of Positive Hair Systems in Tyler, TX, he looks forward to retiring with his wife, Carmen, of 49 years. They enjoy travelling and spending time with their four grandchildren, ages 5-20.
Mike Mahoney today One of the first national press stories done on the AHLC was titled, “A Beacon Of Hope For Those With Hair Loss.” In starting the AHLC our main focus was on educating those throughout the medical and non-medical professions working with hair loss. This was the purpose of our first Symposium in Los Angeles in 1987. The AHLC was the first to have Trichologists, Dermatologists, Plastic Surgeons, Clinical Psychologists, Cosmetologists, Barbers, Oncologists, The NAAF, The FDA and The CTFA involved in it’s Symposiums.
The mission of the AHLC remains as true today as it was 30 years ago, when Mahoney first penned these words.
The AHLC newsletter, The Hair Loss Hotline (renamed The Hair Loss Journal in 1986), was aimed at the public. It has always been my belief that the more the public is aware of what we are capable of, the more appreciated and successful we will all be. As editor, the cover of the very first Journal stated: The Link Issue 13, Spring 2015 7
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The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Special 30th Anniversary Edition
Peggy Thornhill
CURRENT AHLC PRESIDENT & BOARD MEMBER
by Peggy Thornhill, Classic Designs Hair Replacement Center, Hattiesburg, MS
W
hen I started in hair replacewalk me through anything. But for me ment in the mid-1980’s it’s safe to there was still something missing. say that when someone would mention “hair replacement”, 99 percent of my About this same time there was a possible market had no clue as to what real buzz beginning. People would ask, I was talking about. I knew immedi“Have you heard about the American ately, it wasn’t going to be easy, but Hair Loss Council?” I couldn’t get the then again, tenacity runs in my blood information fast enough! (Thank you and giving up was never an option. I’d Mike Mahoney.) It was the mid-1980’s found an ad in a professional magazine and the AHLC was growing like wildfire. for some hair attachments and called I joined and attended every conference the company for a catalog. When the I could and the education, oh the educacatalog came it was full of hair and hair tion! It was great! I knew, the AHLC was attachments. I was totally excited! I something the industry needed and called back and discussed the prospect something I must support. of expanding my business to offer hair replacement services, and naively asked, “So now what?” Education was a key factor in what I needed to do next. I borrowed money to fly to California with my mom in tow, “for protection”. The class was great. I was blown away with excitement. Even though there were only 8-10 people there, I could have been the only one and it wouldn’t have made any difference. Several months went by and I burned up the phone lines with the educator while I purchased hair and serviced my existing hair client’s husbands who wore hair. I attended another class, this time it was at the company facility in Minnesota. My husband came along to find out about expanding our business. We made the trip to learn more. After learning more, we choose to participate in an exclusive territorial contract. I was putting everything on the line for a future in the hair replacement industry. We went back home, to southern Mississippi and took out a second mortgage on our home to fund the contract. Today that same amount of money could purchase a new car. I don’t regret becoming involved and making that commitment. I had a connection to the industry and one of the best educators at the time. I could call and get information and they would
Peggy Thornhill As the AHLC grew, the decision was made to hire an outside entity to handle the business end and administration. Things went downhill from there. Soon after, the tone of our organization begin to change. It seemed the warm, caring heart we had for helping others with their hair loss began to more closely resemble a cold and calculated business proposition. What else can I say? I’ll spare you the drawn-out details. Marsha Scott became President at this time and if not for Marsha, the AHLC
likely would not have continued to exist to this present day. Over the past few years the AHLC’s growth has been phenomenal. We are continuing to add not only members for you to associate with but also new companies for you to learn about. We do our best to constantly have a pulse on trends, technology and business practices so that we may better serve and assist our members in their businesses. Our members are the best-of-the-best and should be at the top of any search wherever the public is searching for the services of a specialist. We promote our members, making sure they are easily found. To this end, we’re launching an expanded profile option for as a service to members. It’s basically your own web page, all about you and your business, available to the consumer through the AHLC website. There are many more perks coming in the future, available to the membership of the AHLC. For the small price of membership, it’s a happening place, working for you! People always ask us why are you all still here, why do you work so hard, etc.? The answer is because we care! The need for a non-profit, non-biased organization is a must for our industry. It’s where people like me will not be left alone to fulfill their dream of owning a business. We band together to find our strength and answers to go forward to build our own successes. I’ll never quit. I’ll just keep on moving forward and I invite you to do the same. Peggy owns and operates Classic Designs, a full service hair replacement center and wig shop in Hattiesburg, MS. She had been in business since 1986. Since being widowed two years ago, Peggy has occupied her time getting further hair replacement education and expanding her services. She enjoys travelling and spending time with her four children and eight grandchildren. The Link Issue 13, Spring 2015 9
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Special 30th Anniversary Edition
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Marsha Scott
C U R R E N T A H LC V I C E P R E S I D E N T B OA R D M E M B E R & PA S T P R E S I D E N T
by Barbara Jenssen Marsha Scott has served as president of the American Hair Loss Council twice in her professional career in the hair replacement industry. She has been, and remains, an accomplished and enthusiastic addition to the AHLC’s Board and proudly continues her dedication to the education and awareness of both its members, and the public at large. In her role as an active member of the AHLC, Marsha is knowledgeable, articulate and dedicated to providing support and guidance to the continually growing and changing field of hair loss. When Marsha first became acquainted with the AHLC, she immediately became involved and was instantly driven to do more. Thus her first term as president of the AHLC. She has a superb reputation for going to any length to find solutions to her clients’ particular needs. In her term serving as president of the AHLC she spent hours researching and networking to find answers for those seeking her help, at her own expense.
Several years ago at a board meeting in Pittsburgh, the AHLC learned that the management company was misusing the AHLC’s funds. They knew the council was going to have a rough road ahead. The AHLC discontinued it’s relationship with the management company and set its sights on how to regroup. It was President Scott who said, “Whatever it’s going to take to build membership and organize a conference, let’s do it!” She knew what the goals were and she was actually willing to be the financial support system for what needed done. Marsha had vision. She remembered what a wonderful feeling it was to become a member all those years ago. She knew the importance of membership and belonging to a group that was held with great integrity. Marsha believes that what she does, what all members of the AHLC do, changes their clients’ lives. That is why it is essential to keep abreast of all the latest techniques and enforce stringent ethical standards for both medical and non-medical hair replacement techniques.
Susan Kettering
C U R R E N T A H LC E X E C U T I V E D I R E CTO R & B OA R D M E M B E R I became a member of the AHLC twenty-eight years ago because I was looking for a group of professional stylists who were in the hair replacement business. A group that I could relate to. From 1975 through 1981, whatever you knew about hair replacement was self-taught. I would attend beauty shows and never found any company or organization that would discuss hair loss and how to slow it down or replace it. There were no academies or schools that taught hair replacement techniques. It seemed to me that the beauty industry did not have the same commitment to the client as the hair replacement industry, they look at beauty only, we are a niche that knows what it takes to recreate that hair style that was lost. 10 The Link Issue 13, Spring 2015
I wanted to see everything. I was new and wanted to explore all of the options. And then came the AHLC, a group so energized and eager to share information. It was great. What a thrill!!! Everyone attended the meetings and there was a feeling of togetherness and an easy communication between members. As the years progress, the AHLC continues to grow, providing educational classes and hands-on demonstrations that help our industry improve the methods that we use for successful hair replacement. That same need still exists today. The AHLC will always be a valuable tool for anyone who is serious about providing exceptional care for clients that need hair replacement. How great to have an organization that continues to present us with so much relevant information.
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The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Special 30th Anniversary Edition
Betty Bugden
C U R R E N T A H LC M E M B E R S H I P D I R E CTO R T R E A S U R E R & B OA R D M E M B E R
Because of my desire to learn more, I tried to attend every educational conference possible. In the summer of 1994 I attended a National Cosmetology Conference. My daughter was a teenager and wanted longer, thicker hair. At that conference they were offering hair braiding and extensions. I knew nothing about it and figured I had to attend! I met a young man that was proctoring the classrooms. He was a member of Hair American and was an educator for the NCA. He asked me if he could help me find the class I was looking for. I told him I needed to learn hair extensions. Being a very backward person at that time, I wasn’t sure if I should stay but this young man stayed with me and gave me, a very shy person from a very small town (Shenandoah, PA), the reassurance to sit-in on the class. Afterwards, he walked with me and asked me about my salon and what I was looking for. He told me about the different companies that offered education and suggested that after I take the classes on hair replacement and that I should consider joining the crème de la crème of organizations devoted to hair replacement, the AHLC. That helpful gentleman was Anthony Santangelo. My father raised me to support organizations that support your profession. I belonged to the NCA, AIA, PCA and NTA. I secured a loan and started my education in hair replacement.
I attended classes from Great Lengths, Garland Drake, LeMetric Hair Centers Inc, International Hairgoods, On Rite (men’s, women’s, extensions and business classes), New Image, Arcos and other various classes on hair replacement. I have to thank Randy Clark for instructing me on how to make a full hard mold with the easiest method of removal at a New Image conference. I finally completed my classes and felt confident that I understood what I was doing and I knew that if someone contacted me with a problem, I would be able to help them. I joined the AHLC in 1997 and attended my first conference in Houston in 1999. It was great. I learned that more education was needed. I began attending different company’s conferences and shows and became acquainted with other members in the AHLC. They networked with me and helped me grow. Then the bomb dropped. The AHLC had financial difficulties and many of the members dropped out and left the organization. In 2002 I took over the position of Membership Director of the AHLC. I spoke to everyone that I saw and let him or her know how important it was to support the only not-for-profit organization that supported us in return. I started with 13 members and since then we have grown. I still firmly believe in the importance of supporting this organization. We had a few conferences with poor attendance but it didn’t get us down. As we have persevered, our conference grew to 150 attendees and 19 displaying vendors last year. Networking with salon owners and doctors along with the education is worth every penny of the annual membership.
Laura Cole
C U R R E N T A H LC B OA R D M E M B E R
I’ve been in the salon business with my parents since 1976. In 1992, a sales representative told us about a hair replacement conference being held in New Orleans. My mom and dad decided to go to New Orleans to see what hair replacement was all about. When my parents came home, they were both excited about providing future hair replacement services. Over the years of being a member of the AHLC, I have attended many annual conferences, furthered my education and had the opportunity to work toward and earn my AHLC
Masters Certification. The experience and abundance of knowledge gained from the contributors at the annual conferences and symposiums have always left me in awe. As a newly-appointed board member, I have the privilege to experience the inner-workings behind the scenes and I’m amazed. Each board member and staff member of The Link are not only talented, but understand of the unique issues of our industry. This gives us and our contributors the capability to bring it all together for our members. Without the conferences and trade shows I would have never been able to further my education or meet the wonderful friends and colleagues I’ve made throughout the years! The AHLC is like a fine wine; it gets better with age and leaves you always wanting more. The Link Issue 13, Spring 2015 11
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The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Special 30th Anniversary Edition
Many Voices Become One Leigh Gardner, National Sales Manager, Capilia Group
For thirty years, our industry has had a strong and consistent voice because of the efforts of the AHLC. Not only do they keep us abreast of trends, marketing tips, etc., they are foremost in offering educational training for our industry. The AHLC’s voice also is a protective voice. In the past we have been bombarded with TV or newspaper ads depicting hair loss or wearing hair as a joke. As recently as this month two companies, TD American Trade and Power Pole Boat Anchor have featured ads on television lampooning hair replacement systems by being shown either blown or ripped off. These jokes are very hurtful for any person needing hair loss treatment for any reasons including medical issues such as burns, chemo or various traumas. The AHLC is there to protect us from jokesters such as these and are not afraid to take on a giant such as Anheuser Busch which, in the past, AHLC did indeed challenge them regarding this issue. So, as you can see, the AHLC wears many hats and it is in our industry’s best interest that we support them, join them in membership and combine our voices. I recall my first AHLC meeting was at the On Rite Conference in 1989. It was a joint meeting and it was a phenomenal success. Attendance was huge, content informational and a constant learning experience. The membership was on the move at an amazing pace and over the next years it became the place to be for our industry, manufacturers and vendors. Unfortunately, in 2004 there was a decline in activity and therefore membership slowed. However, thanks to the current AHLC Board of Directors and their amazing commitment, the AHLC has returned to the platform we all need in this business.
Stand up and be counted! Without each of us standing firmly behind the AHLC and joining their commitment our voices will be timid and weak. We will suffer from more jokesters, charlatans trying to corrupt and violate the AHLC’s code of ethics. Therefore, we must grow in numbers so our voices rumble throughout the entire hair restoration world.
new approaches, new options in the playing field because the goalpost has been moved and it’s a new ballgame. There is a great book that I recommend entitled, “Who Moved My Cheese.” Read it and invest in your future. In it, author, Dr. Spencer Johnson conveys the need for realizing the tools necessary to deal with change--an issue that has the potential to make us all nervous and uncomfortable.
Bring your voice to the AHLC conference and take advantage of the many training classes that will be available from many sources covering many pertinent subjects. We also must dedicate ourselves to the manufacturers that support us. Leigh Gardner So, the message is thus: Bring your voice to the next AHLC conference and take advantage of the many training classes that will be available from many sources covering many pertinent subjects. We also must dedicate ourselves to the very manufacturers that support us. Don’t try to learn (as I did back in those early years) by trial and error. There is new excitement out there now,
Many thanks to AHLC for The Link’s recent education issue. We need to act on it as we are now in the era of offering unique and proven hair solutions to our clients. How does this fit your studio and what is your competitive edge? Let us join the AHLC so our voices not only “rumble,” but also become a resounding “roar” throughout the industry and for many years to come. The Link Issue 13, Spring 2015 13
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Hair Visions International
A New Name Representing Many Familiar Brands Press Release, On Rite/Hair Visions International Ft. Lauderdale, FL - President, Andrew Wright, announced the creation of their new name, HAIR VISIONS INTERNATIONAL. There is no change in ownership; just the new name! In 1975, On Rite Company was established offering men’s hair replacement. Since then, business has expanded to include Gemtress women’s top-of-head, human hair and synthetic handmade wigs. Through the years, other brands were introduced: Ultratress hair extensions, Simplicity hair extensions and TressAllure fashion wigs. “Over the recent years, it got very confusing when referencing On Rite,” states Andy Wright. “Were we talking about our men’s brand or the company? This change will allow us to better promote our men’s products and our expanded brands.” Moving forward, The corporate name is now
On Rite will now refer exclusively to our men’s hair replacement brand.
Our brands include: Men’s hair replacement brand Women’s hair replacement brand Human hair extension brand HAIR EXTENSIONS PREFERRED BY HAIR LOSS PROFESSIONALS &
Patented human hair extension brand Women’s synthetic fashion wig brand
AS WORN BY NATIONAL BEAUTY PAGEANT COMPETITORS
www.DiBiaseHairUSA.com • 248.489.8900 38455 Hills Tech Drive • Suite 200 • Farmington Hills, MI 48335 USA
Expect a gradual transition over the next few months as the name changes in collateral, billing, shipping, email addresses, etc. Regardless of the name, we’re still the same group of people dedicated to providing excellent products and services for the hair loss industry. 14 The Link Issue 13, Spring 2015
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The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Special 30th Anniversary Edition
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A H L C PA S T PRESIDENT
Dr. Carlos Puig by Carlos Puig, DO, Physicians’ Hair Restoration Center (PHRC), Houston Texas
I
joined AHLC early, soon after Mike Mahoney organized the Council in the late 1980’s. As a practicing hair restoration surgeon, with multiple offices around the country, I found the council most helpful, in introducing me to both medical and non-medical hair replacement professionals from all around the country. This was years before the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery was organized. At the time the surgical technologies of the day left a lot to be desired. We were all striving to develop new technologies that would deliver a more natural looking and convenient result for our patients/ customers.
It was most refreshing to meet and work with non-medical hair replacement professionals who sought to share their customer service insights in a co-operative atmosphere. I learned a lot about how they focused on customer service, how their products were constructed, manufactured and distributed, and how they treated each other and their medical competitors. I grew to appreciate what leaders such as Mike Mahoney, Richard Fleming, Greg Taylor, Anthony Santangelo, Susan Kettering and Marsha Scott were trying to achieve; being an organization where information could be shared and trust built between friendly competitors. And, I realized that I too wanted to pursue those noble goals. I was blessed to be given the opportunity to do just that, by serving on the Board and eventually as President. Little did I know how much that experience would be useful in my future life? Coming from a medical background, where open communication between competitors about service improvement is the norm, to the AHLC where 70 percent of the membership was non-medical small business owners 16 The Link Issue 13, Spring 2015
who were experienced marketers and very competitive with each other, forced me to develop negotiation and communication strategies that have continued to served me well. I have been able to apply what I learned from being involved with the AHLC to my subsequent service to Living Water International (a Christian missionary organization that provides shallow fresh water wells to Third World communities), the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery and most recently the AMA House of Delegates.
Carlos Puig, DO I am comfortable saying that all of these organizations have benefited from the leadership skills I learned while working for the AHLC. The AHLC is truly an organization that encourages high-quality customer/patient service thru professional integrity, collegial communication and education. I would hope that these noble goals and standards continue to be the cornerstone of our AHLC.
I mentioned that the surgical technologies of those early years the 1970’s and 1980s, left a lot to be desired. There is no doubt that if one were to watch a hair restoration surgery being done in 1985 and a contemporary hair transplant back to back, the two procedures have very little in common. In the early years of the AHLC, Dr. Dominick Brandy was still teaching his scalp lift procedure. Scalp reductions constituted nearly half the procedures we did and scalp extenders had not yet been invented. The integration of Platelet Rich Plasma and A-Cell into hair restoration surgery was still more than twenty years away and hair follicle stem cell science was in its infancy. Hair is a passionate topic. It is an important physical characteristic to almost everyone and so desired that anything that promises a result is easy to sell. The AHLC has set a professional standard for both the medical and nonmedical components of the profession that focuses on integrity and quality of outcomes. The American Academy of Cosmetic Surgery and the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery have embraced similar standards. I pray that the AHLC will continue to successfully carry that message all that try to help people feel better about themselves with our hair restoration and replacement technologies.
Today, Dr. Puig focuses on his practice, Physicians’ Hair Restoration Center (PHRC) in Houston, TX. He is past president of the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery and still serves on various committees at ISHRS. When he has time, Carlos enjoys golf. He is also a part-time standup bass player and plays improv jazz with various bands a few times a month.
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Hair Loss Certifications through the US Trichology Institute
ustrichology.org
AMERICAN HAIR LOSS CO 398
1992 Symposium 4/4-6 New Orleans, LA 351
1985 AHLC Founded by Mike Mahoney as a source of unbiased hair loss information.
1994 President LaVonne Adams Symposium 4/16-19 La Jolla, CA
1991 Symposium
4/5-8 Washington, DC
1988 Rogaine FDA approved for male pattern baldness 1985 Newsletter Hair Loss Hotline Created
1996 Symposium 4/20-23 Atlanta
1995 President Anthony Santa Logo Redesigned to Current Log
1990 Greg Taylor President 209 1990
1995
2000
1990 Symposium
4/21-24, Nashville, TN
1989 Symposium
4/16-17 Dallas, TX
1993 Symposium 4/3-6 San Antonio, TX
1986
AHLC, “Hair Loss Hotline” renamed “The Hair Loss Journal”
1987 Logo Changed
55
1997 President Carlos Puig, DO AHLC.org goes online AHLC Hair Loss Journal publication wa Symposium 4/5-8 San Francisco 1994 The Hair Loss Journal Designated as a
publication for the consumer and the AHLC News launched as a members only newsletter
1987 First Symposim, 4/12-13, Los Angles CA 1988 Symposium 4/17-18 Chicago, IL
1997 Propecia FDA Approved
1991 AHLC Lobbies Congress for insurance Reform
Smith Bucklin and Associates hired to manage the AHLC. Corporate offices moved from Tyler, TX to Chicago, IL 1998 Symposiu 4/25-28 Phoenix
OUNCIL TIMELINE
MEMBERSHIP *Numbers are aproximate and include both individual and coorporate memberships
400
2001 Jackie Donovan President 2004
350
Symposium 11/7-8 Ft. Lauderdale, FL
1999 Marsha Scott President
2011 The Link, The Voice
Symposium 4/24-26 Houston, TX
300
of the American Hair Loss Council first Published
2006 Symposium 9/9-10 Chicago, IL
angelo go
2003 Symposium 9/27-29 Nashville, TN
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2014 Symposium Upgrade 4/26-28, Ft. Lauderdale, FL AHLC.org redesigned
2012 Symposium Re:Train, Re: Focus, Re: Fresh 5/19-21 Ft. Lauderdale, FL
250 230
2008 Symposium Vision 08, 4/12-13 Ft Lauderdale, FL
2005
2010
2003 Steve Luttrell President th
2011 Symposium Ft.
150
Lauderdale, FL
2002 Penny Bell President
Symposium 9/21-23 Pittsburgh, PA
2005 AHLC.org redesigned & Relaunched 2009
Symposium Vision 09, 4/25-27 Ft. Lauderdale
as suspended
um x, AZ
2013 Symposium Back To Basics 5/4-6 Ft. Lauderdale, FL 2006
Peggy Thornhill President
2015
HAPPY ANNIVERSARY Symposium Momentum! 4/26-28 Ft. Lauderdale
100
50
13
0
WI G S P ROST HE T I C S HAIR RE P L AC E M E N T E X P ER IEN C E T H E DI F F E R E NCE
800.327.5555
5130 North State Road 7, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33319 Phone: 954-677-0404 • Fax: 954-677-0505 Gemtress a division of Hair Visions International Gemtress.com • HairVisionsIntl.com
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The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Special 30th Anniversary Edition
A H L C PA S T PRESIDENT
Jackie Donovan by Debrorah Long, Owner, An Eye For Content, Houston Texas
J
ackie Donovan, former president of the American Hair Loss Council, is celebrating her 30th year as a member of the organization. The AHLC is hugely responsible for her success in the industry.
In 1984, Jackie was a young, aspiring hairdresser, newly licensed in cosmetology. Her dream was to own a salon and not have to work for anyone else. While that usually takes years of paying your dues, Jackie was catapulted into business ownership when a friend mentioned a little barbershop was for sale in Pasadena, Texas. The one-chair operation was so small it was actually located in a one-car garage attached to an equally small residential home. Scraping together all the money she had (which wasn’t much after the cost of school) plus a family loan, Jackie took a chance and jumped in feet first, moving into both the house and the shop with a $1,000 down payment and ownerfinanced loan. What a sweet deal! However, she soon found out she had not only inherited clients needing haircuts, but also many hair loss issues and men who wore hair, a condition Jackie knew absolutely nothing about. Enter Frank Prasek, owner of Houston Hair Designers. He was recommended to help with the basics like taking a mold, doing cut-in’s and where/what to buy when ordering hair. Without the guidance and know-how of this pivotal individual in Jackie’s early career, she would not be where she is today. As the proud owner of Changing Images, based in downtown Houston, they have an ever-growing clientele and phenomenal repeat business. Frank not only shared his professional experience, he also coaxed Jackie to join AHLC; and it was through her membership, volunteer positions and her role as president that she grew her network of colleagues,
as well as exposure to the latest products and techniques at annual conferences, workshops, etc. It was indeed a very beneficial educational tool for her, an opportunity to travel and a thrill to hobnob with an international group.
Jackie Donovan Jackie soon realized that hair replacement was her niche and she embraced that side of her business. After outgrowing the little barbershop she expanded to successively larger beauty salons in the Clear Lake area. She went from a small shop to modern shopping centers (from Razzmatazz to Prosthesis Hair Services), and to even a small boutique salon in the Hilton Hotel overlooking Clear Lake. This was made possible by a client/banker who believed in what Jackie was doing and facilitated bank loans, as needed.
Much of the success in her endeavors can also be attributed to Jackie’s innate business acumen and active community involvement. She joined the Pasadena and Clear Lake Rodeo Associations, American Cancer Society, League City Rotary Club (in which she was the first woman), Clear Lake Chamber of Commerce and American Business Women’s Association (where she was voted Woman of the Year). Twenty years ago, Jackie made the switch to focus exclusively on hair replacement and became more heavily involved with AHLC leadership. Ten years later, she instinctively knew she needed to make another change to serve a larger market in an up and coming area. This evolved into her current Midtown Houston location, situated close to the Medical Center. Her practice now stretches all around the state of Texas. And those who have moved out of state even come back for her specialized services, including a patented technique. She just knows how to make things right and keep customers happy! Jackie’s continued good standing with AHLC over the years has served to build her reputation and client base. It has also led to consulting opportunities to help others design their hair replacement centers across the United States. A dedication to restoring hair and restoring confidence in men, women, and children is reflected in all that she does. Hats off to Jackie Donovan, a true AHLC professional.
Today Jackie owns and operates Changing Images in Houston. Jackie says she has a great staff and many dedicated clients that have been with her for years and is thankful that she gets new clients almost every week! Once or twice a year she will train students, helping them get started in hair replacement. Jackie enjoys a full social life which includes dining out, movies and traveling. She went to Paris and London last year and hopes to go to Denmark soon. “I have a great life, this has been a good career choice for me.” The Link Issue 13, Spring 2015 23
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Special 30th Anniversary Edition
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A Timeline by Rhonda McCarthy, VP Strategy and Business Development
September 1975 The Inception of On Rite Company, Fort Lauderdale, Florida This was the very beginning of the men’s hair replacement business here in the United States as well as the rest of the world. Baby boomers were nearing their 20’s (more about that later). In this beginning period men’s hair replacements (commonly referred to as a toupee) were available only as custom orders. On Rite was the first company who conceptualized and created premade men’s hairpieces sold to the professional. In these early years men’s hairpieces were a taboo subject and not spoken about.
1985 For men in their 30’s the subject of men’s hair replacement became a far more open subject, it was not taboo any longer. In fact, in 1985 On Rite produced its first ever TV commercial and infomercial called, “Why Me”. We made them available to the professional retail center on an exclusive basis in order to reach and attract male clients experiencing hair loss. Infomercials were popular at that time and not very expensive to air. 1989 Men in their mid-30’s were far
more conscious of their appearance than any generation before. The job market was extremely competitive and the divorce rate was climbing. He needed to look his very best in order to compete successfully for the best jobs, job promotions and definitely did not want to be perceived as older than he actually was, especially when it came to women. This phase created the need to design lighter-weight men’s hair replacements including hairpieces that the baby boomer could wear 24/7. The reason
24 The Link Issue 13, Spring 2015
for this change was that it required less dexterity and reduced the risk of the client facing the embarrassment of the hair coming off at an inappropriate time or place. These design requirements led to the development of much more natural base materials that could accommodate lighter density of hair but yet remain durable. During this same period, this new, lightweight, more natural looking permanent attachment morphed into Program Hair. This development culminated in a much more natural looking men’s hair replacement design that didn’t need to be removed from the scalp. Finally, the client was able to have his hair continuously between three to six weeks before his next visit to the hair replacement center.
1995 Women with thinning hair began
to visit men’s hair replacement centers as a result of all of the TV advertisements. While there was no advertising targeting women with hair loss, these ladies hoped that since the studio can resolve men’s hair loss issues, then maybe they could help them too. This was the year that On Rite began designing and inventorying hair designs created exclusively for women with thinning hair. At this time, On Rite also formed the GemTress division, a new brand designed exclusively for women with all levels of hair loss.
1999 Was a turning point for the staff at On Rite. Through what is called an ESOP, Andy Wright sold 40 percent of the On Rite Company to the staff. The staff paid nothing from their salaries and over the years their
share was paid out of the profits of the company, calculated on the basis of the employee’s salary in proportion to the total salaries paid.
2003
Andy sold the other 60 percent of the On Rite Company to the ESOP so that everyone could enjoy the additional fruits of their labor. Yes, On Rite was owned 100% by the On Rite staff. Andy Wright no longer owned any part of On Rite but the staff kept Andy on as the leader of the company.
2004
Hair extensions became more popular than ever and the entire public, both male and female, were talking about hair extensions without really knowing what they were or what they would do for the wearer. In fact, everyone thought it was the cure all and beall of everything! They even believed it was the solution to everyone’s hair loss problem. For that reason, On Rite created our third division, UltraTress Hair Extensions and decided to inventory and promote Hair Extensions with the confidence that both men and women would respond to the advertisement.
2009
The On Rite Staff decided to sell their company to one of the largest hairpiece manufacturers in China. In the industry, not only were women with thinning hair increasing in numbers but so were women who lost their hair due to medical treatments like chemotherapy. While retail businesses wanted to provide services to these women, they found that getting the word out to their medical community was a very time consuming endeavor. This need created our Recover With Confidence program. On Rite developed this program to assist the business owner by making those connections and establishing relationships with their medical community.
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2010
With the women’s market in full swing, On Rite introduced a new addition to our European women’s line. The Venezia’s one-of-a-kind design and superior quality quickly made it one of our Gemtress division’s most popular designs. Responding to the need for more digital marketing for retailers to target consumers online, On Rite introduced a selection of interesting, attention grabbing online videos to target both men and women.
2011
On Rite’s men’s division completed the launch of our newest grafts, The Edge family. This versatile line quickly became our most popular grafts for men. The line contains the perfect design for every male consumer and the materials used blended flawlessly, giving the consumer the most natural and comfortable look available in the industry! Continuing with our commitment to provide business owners with new, innovative ways to drive new business through their doors, we introduced three new complete marketing programs, “Poker Face” and “I Like My Hair” for men and “Good Hair Days” for women. Each program, and every program developed hereafter, contains digital elements to also target the consumer online.
2012
What a busy year! Not only did we introduce the first men’s European hair design in the industry, the Dante, but we also kicked off our Regional Academies, The Women’s Seminar Tour with Kayla Martell and offered a full marketing program targeting women with thinning hair featuring Kayla Martell, 2011 Miss America Finalist. The Regional Academies continue to be very successful, with stylists, business owners and sales consultants. We offer a two day hair replacement class, a one day Medical Hair Loss class, a one day UltraTress extensions class and a two day Business Class (for business
owners and sales consultants). These classes are offered all over the US throughout the year
2013
On Rite acquired both Simplicity extensions and TressAllure exclusively designed by Ms. Noriko Suzuki. These two acquisitions now gave On Rite five unique divisions, completing our goal to become the distributor with the most versatile product lines. Simplicity extension’s patented method of attachment gave retailers another option to help them stand out in the saturated market of hair extensions. Simplicity, known for the ease in application and high quality hair is a well-known brand with both consumers and stylists.
TressAllure, exclusively designed by Ms. Noriko Suzuki was added when we realized that while we had a complete line of beautiful human hair wigs as well as a beautiful line of our unique synthetic designs, Syntress (created with the needs of the women who lose their hair due to medical reasons), we were missing and not sufficiently serving the women who wanted high fashion with trendy colors. TressAllure, exclusively designed by Ms. Noriko Suzuki has 23 styles in 23 colors, all very trendy and beautiful! The Women’s Hair Loss Seminar Tour, with Kayla Martell began to pick up steam. Business owners were beginning to realize the value in marketing this seminar, producing lots of qualified leads as well as 25–30 women new to the industry (all with varying degrees of hair loss) in one room where we conduct a group consultation and then offer a free hair and scalp analysis at the end of the evening, encouraging them to commit to their solution that night. This program, while created to generate leads was increasing their women’s new business overnight! On the men’s side, we introduced the Edge Plus Upgrading Program created to assist business owners with the tools and strategies to successfully upgrade
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their clients into higher-level programs. This resulted in a more satisfied client base, less attrition and helped to increase our retail partners’ businesses’ bottom line!
2014
On Rite targets the millennial men! During the previous couple of years, On Rite began to study the men’s market where growth was nonexistent or declining. Our clients were telling us that their men’s business was aging and they were worried that their male client base median age was increasing with few younger men walking through their doors.
In response to that, we studied the millennial men (born 1981–2000) and their view on hair loss. We found that these young men view their hair (and potential hair loss) differently than every generation before! This analysis resulted in the most innovative and edgy marketing program ever created by the hair replacement industry. The Men’s Millennial Program was launched in October, using young models, very trendy hairstyles and an extremely unique use of camera effects and photography. On Rite and business owners are excited at this opportunity to capture the younger generation and reignite the men’s business!
2015 The year has only started, but On Rite has already created a buzz by announcing a change in our corporate name. Hair Visions International was created in response to our rapid growth and increased product offerings. Under Hair Visions International we have five divisions: On Rite (our men’s line), Gemtress (our women’s line), UltraTress (our hair extensions), TressAllure exclusively designed by Ms. Noriko Suzuki (our fashion synthetic line) and Simplicity (our second hair extension product). Be ready for much more this year! Hair Visions International has many new and innovative products coming as well as some incredible new marketing and services all to increase our clients’ profits and new business through their doors! The Link Issue 13, Spring 2015 25
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Special 30th Anniversary Edition
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A Promise is a Promise! by Elvira Amankwa, CMP, Marketing Manager, New Image Labs, Inc.
S
ome lead, others follow or as Steve Jobs puts it, “Innovation distinguishes between a leader and a follower.” For over forty years, New Image has been leading the hair replacement industry; a stable company, which stabilizes the entire industry. Vision and innovation are the hallmarks of the company, and clients from all over the USA and the entire world are attesting to the fact that New Image constantly delivers tomorrow’s technology today. In fact, we promised the industry to raise the bar and to help business owners be successful by bringing them innovative products and business ideas that work. Here are some highlights of how New Image is fulfilling this promise and upgrading the entire industry:
Innovative Product Development New Image stands for the development of the most groundbreaking product solutions in the industry. Being Originals is our trademark. A great number of the industry’s most revolutionary hair replacement designs for unprecedented realistic looks and invisible hair lines were created and launched by New Image, such as: NX-Gen Effects - To this day the greatest hair replacement system ever produced Paragon - One of the first patented products in the industry, which changed the way people looked at their hair loss issues and concerns in the 1990’s XTS - Still to this day, the world’s most popular skin system Icon - One of our flagship products, which cannot and will never be duplicated Elite-M-Class - The perfect solution 26 The Link Issue 13, Spring 2015
for at least 30-40 percent of today’s aging male hair loss clients EPIC - New to the industry, a hair replacement line where we have extended the borders to a different level
New Image would like to congratulate the American Hair Loss Council for their dedicated service to the hair replacement industry for the past thirty years and to wish the Council all the best for many more years to come.
Additional highlights include: New Image pioneered program selling with Hair For Life, the first trademark registered, program selling concept that revolutionized the industry: turning a product that happened to need service, to a service that happened to need hair, insuring the end user’s hair looked and felt like their own natural hair. New Image launched a series of inventive four-step Application Kits, answering the industry’s demands for natural, safer and effective bonding results, giving retailers new alternatives. They are: NX-GEN Application Kit, the first 4-step application kit that made sense X20 Application Kit, the first and only in the industry for sensitive skin
eXTreme Pro Application Kit, the first and only proven kit for extreme bonding demands New Image took it to the next level by launching XFactor, the first and only proven bonding enhancer New Image developed Biolon, a revolutionary man-made fiber that mimics the look and feel of Euro Hair New Image launched handcrafted precision tools, such as the Smart Tool, a must have in every studio We have taken the lead over the past 40 years and will continue to do so.
Cutting-Edge Education With the changing times, New Image has adjusted its educational formats. At NIU (www.newimageuniversity. com), the industry’s only educational platform, we offer three New Image Certification Courses, available anytime, anywhere: New Image Certified Hair Loss Specialist, New Image Certified Hair Loss Master, New Image Certified Biolon Specialist. Later this year, we will unveil a completely revamped event series, called NIU Live 2015 Business Success Series. These high-powered, all-inclusive events will be an opportunity to learn about the latest technology, real solutions and ideas, which will generate more traffic in your studios and create more revenue. Learn today. Sell tomorrow, novel products and business concepts for a changing market to ensure business success also in 2015. This is what education at New Image is all about.
Secure Supply Chain New Image maintains the most consistent and stable supply line in the
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industry, giving retailers a stable and secure business.
daily and continue to work on improving our deliverables to the industry.
Our extensive inventory of 42 stateof-the-art, pre-manufactured styles for men and 21 styles for women is vast, guaranteeing studios to get the hair options they want in a timely manner.
New Image also continually invests in state-of-the-art customized software solutions, which enable us to run the most advanced and sophisticated operations in the industry, which in turn makes us the most reliable partner for your studio.
Quality Hair It is one of our principles to maintain the highest quality products for the industry.
Efficient Internal Operations To help clients run their business smoothly, New Image created the industry’s most efficient operation. For the past two decades, we have implemented Best Business Practice Metrics with very high standards in order to exceed expectations. We always measure our performance, because our clients are worth it! But having the best customer service in the industry has not been enough for us. We continually strive to improve it. It is therefore no secret that we internally measure our performance
The Human Factor - Our Biggest Asset The bedrock of our success is our competent and passionate leadership and staff. Under the new, experienced, trustworthy and energetic leadership of Oscar Urzola, the most respected hair designer in the global hair replacement industry, the company is well poised to take the future and deal with any challenges it may bring, ensuring innovation for many years to come and a bright future for our industry.
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
New Image prides itself in highly productive and engaged employees. Each one of our Product Consultants is a New Image Certified Hair Loss Specialist. This guarantees a high level of product knowledge as well as unmatched customer service, which is second to none and always just a phone call away. We strive to be “Simply The Best.” From Accounting to Marketing, from IT to Distribution, team work ensures a superior customer service experience when dealing with New Image. To make your experience even better, New Image also maintains a safe and drug-free workplace. The New Image Promise to the industry for the future is to be the best we can be to help you bring new solutions to an ever changing market so that in any environment you can thrive and not just survive. It has been our job for the past four decades to upgrade and elevate the industry and we will continue to do so for many years to come.
New Image Management Team: From left to right: Jay Benjamin, National Sales Manager, Oscar Urzola, President, Elvira Amankwa, Marketing Manager, Ariel Lorie, Vice President Finance & Administration The Link Issue 13, Spring 2015 27
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Special 30th Anniversary Edition
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Has the Hair Replacement Industry Changed? by Doug Spike, Business Development & Education Manager, IHI
The Good Ol’ Days I got my start in the hair replacement industry in 1979 after answering a blind ad placed by the Allen Arthur Company, the manufacturer of New Man Hair. At the time, I had no clue what hairpieces were all about. Heck, I had a full head of hair and did not even realize how fortunate I was. I often fantasize about turning back the clock and being able to look at today’s hair with the inexperienced eyes I possessed more than three decades ago.
that remained on the scalp. There was not a lot of hair replacement advertising done in the early 1980’s. A lot of hair was sold word of mouth or through feeder shop referrals. Of course, there was no Internet. The biggest retailers had full-page ads in the yellow pages. Some print ads were being run, but I don’t know of any retailers who were on television.
In those early days of my career, Terry Bradshaw was winning Super Bowls. Bradshaw also served as a spokesperson for New Man Hair. Terry Bradshaw promotional materials made it ok for a lot of men to do something about their hair loss. I remember reading client letters addressed to Terry, “I was skeptical about having a hairpiece, but if it’s good enough for you, it’s good enough for me.” New Man Hair was totally synthetic. While we offered transparent nylon and silicone bases, the most popular by far was polyester. The clients, 99 percent of whom where men, got a one-year warranty or could opt for an extended two year warranty. The hair had to last a long time so heavy density was common. The majority of clients were daily wear using either tape or clips. Flexi-clips came into being, displacing the hair-damaging guillotine clips. Studios doing permanent attachments used various sew-on technologies. Fusion points or the patented cable were very secure, but often uncomfortable or damaging to the client’s growing hair. There were hybrid attachments, such as snaps or Velcro, where the client could remove the hair, but wouldn’t want to be seen in public with their hair off due to the portion of the attachment apparatus 28 The Link Issue 13, Spring 2015
infomercial was born, and with that came a seemingly unlimited supply of leads. I heard stories of 500 leads coming from one 30-minute ad. Hair Club’s website says they first used TV advertising in 1982 and received 10,000 inquiries in their first month!
Do I Need to Find Another Job? 1988 brought word of a miracle drug that grew hair. I was still employed by the same company; only its name had changed to International Hairgoods. When I initially heard about this miracle drug, Rogaine, I thought it was the end of the line. I was ready to jump ship and find a new industry. Baldness was cured and there would soon be no need for hair additions or hair systems, as the hairpieces were now called. Of course, I was wrong and Rogaine has been a boon to our industry.
Consumer Desire Triggers New Technology
Doug Spike
“I’m not only the Hair Club President, But Also a Client.” In the late 80’s, Cy Sperling’s words were being heard in every American household that had a TV. A hair replacement revolution had begun, all built around TV advertising. Other retailers followed suit, with aggressive television advertising introducing the concept of correcting hair loss to the masses. With cable TV and 24-hour programming the
Early in the 1990’s perimeter bonding became the preferred design for those desiring permanent hair. TV advertising worked and men were willing to pay $1000-$3000 per unit. Perimeter bonded human hair was secure and comfortable, however brought issues of hair fall out and color change. As the lifespan of the hair decreased, would the average client be priced out of the market? One answer was to offer hair that met the client’s expectation of durability; the other answer was to change how the client bought hair. International Hairgoods introduced Cyberhair in 1995. Cyberhair answered the demand for more durability while replicating the natural appearance of human hair. Cyberhair did not change color or fall out. Cyberhair dealers could sell hair for top dollar and not worry about having to deal with an unhappy client a few months after delivery.
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On the other end of the durability spectrum, human hair was being ventilated into lighter base materials. The new thin PU and lace bases facilitated another evolution in attachment, full head bonding. Full head bonding eliminated home maintenance and truly allowed the client to live as if he had never lost his hair. In order to maintain a consistent appearance, this disposable hair had to be replaced regularly. With the client needing a new non-surgical hair graft a minimum of four times and as many as 17 or more times per year, the hair replacement membership came into being. The member client was able to budget his hair needs with a monthly payment that covered both hair and service.
by mail or through the Internet. Transplants were a viable option for many clients. Could the traditional hairpiece studio compete? Should the hair replacement specialist be offering more options? Many studios started offering multitherapeutic hair loss solutions. If the best solution was a non-surgical hair graft, the client was accommodated. If the client wanted to try laser hair therapy, in-studio laser treatments and hand-held lasers for home use were available. The client could also obtain scalp therapy products as a stand-alone solution or used in conjunction with laser treatment.
A Whole New Potential Market The late 90’s brought a whole new group of prospects to hair replacement retailers, women. While there were a few pioneers whose studios specialized in women, most retailers had been promoting strictly to men. Ads targeting men were generating more responses from female prospects than ever before. At the same time lead costs were rising. The law of supply and demand came into play as manufacturers offered new female specific products, technicians updated their skills and more and more retail centers advertised and welcomed this new The Norwood Chart: A perfect example prospect as a client. of technology that’s been around forever, yet is still as useful today.
Multi-Therapeutic Hair Loss Solutions In the new millennium the thinhaired prospect was far more educated as to options than ever before. This educated prospect could no longer be sold a hair system using smoke and mirrors. Laser hair therapy was in the news. Propecia had approval from the FDA as a hair grower. National marketing companies, some with questionable ethics, advertised miracle hair loss treatments
Some multi-therapeutic studios formed partnerships with transplant surgeons. Medical wigs, a market that was at one time virtually ignored by the traditional hair replacement studio, became widely available. A client who wanted clear information on options found many choices at the multi-therapeutic hair replacement studio.
2015 and Beyond Manufacturers and suppliers have
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had to change in order to keep up with the evolution of hair loss solutions. I am fortunate to work for a company that is willing to invest in research to expand its catalog to meet industry demands. If the client demands the best technology, Cyberhair is at the top. For the client desiring quality human hair, IHI’s Concise Hair is soft and fine, available pre-designed or custom in lightweight laces, thin PU or durable base materials. Women with sensitive needs love the economical, lightweight and comfortable Sentoo Wig Collection. The Cyberhair based Private Issue line offers high tech wigs available only through exclusive retail territories. Cyberhair technology is also featured in IHI’s Micro Point Solutions. Micro Point Link is a unique process allowing the certified professional to tie four Cyberhairs onto a single strand of growing hair, filling in areas where other extensions can’t. Hair Therapy is addressed with the Hair Support program, which can dramatically improve the condition of the scalp, protect it against further hair loss and possibly foster new growth. HI supports its retailers with marketing materials, including before and after photos, at no charge. The company is socially conscious, its Just Live Life Kids program providing free kid tough wigs and hair care products to children with medically related hair loss through licensed Private Issue retailers. If you read the Education Issue of The Link, you are already aware of IHI’s commitment to education. What does the future hold? One thing for certain is new technology will bring new solutions for dealing with hair loss. I know I want to be a part of it and I am sure you do too! The Link Issue 13, Spring 2015 29
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Special 30th Anniversary Edition
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Our History from a European Perspective by Bijan Todd, Founder and President, Dimples
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everal years before the American Hair Loss Council formed in the USA, just across the pond, Dimples came into the picture.
In the summer of 1968 I got into the hair business. Manchester, England was my starting point. It was there in the rain, where I met a beautiful woman with a sweet smile, and unforgettable dimples. So I named my business Dimples.
without him. He managed the business while I travelled seeing customers and factories all over the world. While travelling I came across a manufacturer in Osaka Japan called Kanegafuchi Chemical Industry. They created
I visited Asia several times a year for business. Without email, and the logistics of the language barriers, meeting face to face was the best way to get things done. I had a fantastic agent who was also one of my best friends. He handled the factory and many quality control issues. We are still great friends today.
I started in retail. My first location was in Cheadle Village across from the local church. Soon after I opened a second location, then a third and finally a fourth location. In the beginning we were only selling natural hair wigs and top pieces, synthetic wigs had not broken through yet. There were no custommade hair solutions, only stock. The styles and colors were very limited. Consequently, the wigs were super heavy, hot and uncomfortable. But, that didn’t matter, wigs were in fashion. Women wore wigs for fun and for glamor. During the 1970’s many businesses were selling wigs. As a result, the prices came down and instead of selling our wigs as a luxury item; we had to compete with everyone on price. There was even a local petrol (gas) station that sold a few wigs! The image of the industry took a huge turn. Soon after, I decided that I didn’t want to compete on price. And, because I was not a hairdresser or a cosmetologist, I couldn’t offer any services to differentiate myself from my competition. So, I closed three of my shops and kept the Bolton shop. I then went into wholesale. When I went into wholesale I was lucky to have such a great friend, Mr. Farhad Seka. We soon became business partners. I couldn’t have done it 30 The Link Issue 13, Spring 2015
made in Korea with the Kanekalon fiber from Japan. At that time most of our wigs were made with synthetic hair, as opposed to just natural hair. During this time Dimples was also selling a lot of men’s hair systems. There were no programs in England back then. The hair systems had extra heavy density and the bases were super thick. They were built to last. Nobody was bonding yet, so tape was the answer.
Bijan Todd
a fiber called Kanekalon. The fiber was a great replacement for natural hair. Kanekalon Synthetic hair was a breakthrough for the industry. Finally we were able to make our wigs with a style that held, right out of the box. The new synthetic wigs made it easier for everyone. Unlike natural hair, the synthetic hair held its style and the colors didn’t fade. I was having my hair products
In my travels I came across a top Swedish hair designer called Sture’ Ostin. He was living in Korea and married to the daughter of a very influential man in the Korean Government. He had a towering figure with long blond hair. Everybody knew of him in Seoul. Sture’ was a pioneer. He came up with colors and styles no one had seen. He was one of the first to make rooted colored wigs. He was very passionate about the idea, so we put the wigs into production with his rooted colors. But, they didn’t sell. It turned out that the public wasn’t ready for such a radical change. His vision eventually came through. Today rooted colored wigs and top pieces are some of the best sellers. I almost went into partnership with Sture’ and a Chinese national to buy a wig factory from General Wig Manufacturers. We had a good plan. I was going to handle sales and distribution, Sture’ was going to be the designer and our Chinese national partner was going to manage the production. In the end it didn’t work out. We each went our separate ways.
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Special 30th Anniversary Edition
During the migration of natural hair solutions to synthetic hair solutions, there came another shift in the industry, the medical side. Wigs were no longer respected as fashion items, instead they became the savior for those that needed wigs for medical reasons. With alopecia and chemotherapy patients rising, there was now a true need for hair solutions. Over the years we listened to our customers as they asked for more styling options and more comfortable caps. We started making monofilament parts so that the hair could be parted, simulating a mini scalp. Then we made full monofilament tops so the hair could be parted more freely. We tried everything to make the wigs look and feel more natural. With our UK manager, Ali Noruzi, we eventually created the Feather Premier Collection. This was a cap concept that was designed for medical purposes. We made a hand tied cap that was light as a feather with the softest base materials. We were awarded government contracts in hospitals all over the United Kingdom because of this concept and more. Our distributors in Europe also carry this and our superior natural hair levels Bronze, Silver, and Gold, which were developed by my sons James and Michael Todd. In last few years, we’ve experienced increased demand for quality natural hair. Many companies have moved back to making more natural hair solutions. With bonding, better hair processing and coloring we can make wigs and top pieces that don’t tangle or fade. The industry continues to focus on the medical side but
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Left: Bijan Todd checking quality control Below: Factory worker ventilating
also, increasingly, on hair replacement for male and female pattern baldness. Quality natural hair has become the thing to have. Many are looking for the most natural solution and many will pay to look the best they can. The hair industry today in Europe (and in the USA) is back with gratitude. We have become accepted, loved and needed.
Above: Wig factory in S. Korea Below: Original showroom for Dimples UK office
Dimples focuses on natural hair solutions in three different qualities: Bronze, Silver, and Gold. From Remy hair to Virgin European Hair wigs and top pieces. Located in Los Angeles U.S.A and Manchester England.
Above: Factory workers ventilating Left: Sture Ostin working on a new style The Link Issue 13, Spring 2015  31
Wearable Hair Solution for Thinning Hair + Hair Loss
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I’m sure my thin hair is genetic. I remember my grandmother being bald, however I never thought it would happen to me. Due to a medical condition, I had to take prescription drugs that exacerbated my hair loss. As the director at a hospital, I interact with people every day and appearance is important. I started wearing wigs 10 years ago. A friend told me that a well-know local stylist was offering a new service for women with fine and thinning hair that is an alternative to a wig. I can’t believe how wearing the Evolve Volumizer has changed my life. I feel like a real woman again. The Volumizer is a part of me and at the same time it has set me free. I will never use wig tape again!”
The Evolve Volumizer service for women will set you apart from your competition by bringing in new first-time clients. The Evolve Volumizer is a hair integration system that can be installed in about 2-1/2 hours, can be ordered based on color, texture, density and style of the system and arrives at your location within 1-7 business days. It offers a fashion edge and can be cut and designed to any hair style.
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The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Special 30th Anniversary Edition
Greg Taylor
A H L C PA S T PRESIDENT
by Greg Taylor, President, Taylormade Hair Replacement and dhtSENSOR,
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o me, the value of the past is using it as a reference point, evaluating the things that worked and learning from those that didn’t (at least not as well as we might have hoped). This is certainly true about the hair business. Although much has remained eerily similar for years, many of the important factors we need to incorporate for success and growth are constantly changing and evolving.
I signed up and wanted to help. At the time I was not only running my family’s wholesale hair replacement business, but we also had a large retail studio, all in the San Francisco Bay Area. Shortly after joining the AHLC the membership was kind enough to elect me to the board. Once there, I felt one area where I could be helpful was to try
profession was and what we (wholesalers and retailers) were doing to our image and our credibility in the eyes of our potential buyers as well as the public at large. I think, because of the AHLC’s work, wholesalers began to realize we needed an image change; being more honest would ultimately get us more business.
I’ve been involved with hair since I was seven, literally. My father developed what would turn out to be the first commercially successful, nationally sold hairpiece and I actually helped make them (in a small way) in our house in Idaho back in the 1950’s. So I have a lot of past to think about. When the AHLC was first started I heard about it from a friend in our profession. It seemed to me it was some sort of a marketing company disguised as an unbiased source of information for people with hair loss. But after investigating it further, and talking to Mike Mahoney (the founder and man with the vision), I realized it was for real. Imagine, an organization that was developed to help hair loss sufferers get real information, help them recognize that a lot of the marketing to the general public at the time, was misleading and downright untruthful and give them real, unbiased answers to their questions. In addition, Mike wanted the Council to educate the press; tell them the truth about what we could and could not do for people with hair loss. But even more than that, Mike wanted to educate the press about the feelings people with hair loss had and how hurtful the press could be when they made fun of people who wear hair, or if people who wanted to do anything about their hair loss situation.
Greg Taylor and build a better relationship with the various wholesalers. Back then no one in the wholesale business talked to one another. No one in the retail business did either, we were all competitors with what we thought were our closely guarded secrets. Once on the board, I opened communications with wholesalers. I’m still proud I was able to bring most of the players together into one room and facilitate real communication for the first time. We discussed what our
Wholesalers changed for the better. They try to help and support retail studios with products, ideas, education and offer guidance to do a better, more professional job. The hair business is a difficult one. To do well requires many different assets. Certainly one of the most important assets today is the AHLC. Working together honestly and sharing information is how we create higher standards for ourselves and our businesses to ensure success in the future.
Greg spends a lot of time overseeing Taylormade Hair Replacement and dhtSENSOR. He likes spending time with his significant other of 43 years, Diane Silven. Greg and Diane travelled extensively last year in Europe and are already making plans for more travel in 2015. They’re getting back to riding motorcycles more often as well. On weekends, as time permits, Greg tries to keep his small group of automobiles running. These are mostly Pontiac muscle cars from the 1960’s and a couple of fun sport cars. He also enjoy building projects and fabricating things from metal and wood. The Link Issue 13, Spring 2015 33
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Special 30th Anniversary Edition
Anthony Santangelo
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A H L C PA S T PRESIDENT
by Anthony Santangelo, AMS Designs, Chicago, Illinois
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t was 1987 when my wife and partner brought to my attention this new organization called the American Hair Loss Council. At that time the council was just starting out but there was already a lot of buzz surrounding the organization. Well as luck would have it the symposium was programmed to be in Chicago in April so Carm signed us up and the rest is history.
We saw immediately what a great concept it was. For the first time the medical professionals and the cosmetic professionals where working together for the greater good of the industry and the consumer. The networking and friendships that formed have lasted years. Each year the symposiums grew larger, with more
Welcome to our New Members! Hair Loss Control Clinic, Latham, NY In business since 1987 and in over 30 countries, HLCC is the hair growth and laser hair therapy expert that professionals come to when looking to add these treatments to their business. HLCC provides premium hair growth products and professional laser devices with comprehensive training, marketing and ongoing support, to ensure long term residual revenue. HLCC utilizes a multi-therapeutic treatment approach, providing their clients with the best possible hair loss solutions, based on their individual needs. With the guidance of HLCC, spas, salons, hair clinics, Trichologists and medical practices, around the world are operating profitable, laser hair loss treatment centers. www.hlcconline.com John Amico Hair Products, Crestwood, IL John Amico Haircare has been family owned and operated since 1962 making this successful beauty company one of the oldest in America. Today, three generations are involved with product manufacturing, distribution and beauty schools. The exclusive line is available nationwide through a network of professional stylists, booth renters and salon owners. With its natural-based formulas, John Amico color has long been a favorite amongst salons that specialize in hair replacement. www.johnamico.com 34 The Link Issue 13, Spring 2015
education, exhibits, information and opportunities. In 1992, the year we were in New Orleans, the news show 20/20 was there to interview various attendees and almost every year we had the local press. We made such great friends and had such a good time every year we looked forward to the next meeting with anticipation and excitement. Everyone involved with the council had a unified concept of what the mission was. Everyone worked together. What a revelation. In the beginning there was so much for us to do. Between membership drives, the newsletter, dealing with members on a one on one basis, putting together our member directory, writing the mission statement, creating guidelines, working with suppliers, developing educational programs and planning the annual symposium. It seemed like a full time job. Remember this was all done at a time when only a few of us had computers and the Internet was still in its infancy. With all the hands-on work we needed to do it was exhilarating and addictive but most of all, it was fun. I am so glad that the Council has endured all these years because of the dedication of everyone involved.
JoliCamélón We are a new premium women’s hair company founded by people that you already know well. A return to the beauty, quality, service & choice of added hair products that you remember, but thought you might never see again. Be the first to see the new industry standard for quality, luxury and value. We are unveiling our new company featuring beautiful European hair collections with supremely natural scalp and hairlines as well as custom service offerings. We look forward to seeing you at the Annual Conference in April. Lutech, Inc., Salunga, PA Lutech Inc. is a privately held company that engages in the research, development and manufacturing of adhesives, coatings and cleaners. We mainly serve smaller, niche markets. We have developed three products for the hair restoration market under the brand name NEW CLEAR and will introduce these at the April 2015 conference. Information on these products is available at www.advantageadhesive.com Transitions, Cheektowaga, NY Transitions International Group creates customized marketing materials for television, radio, print, web and social media, as well as exclusive brand names and private label products to its members. Serving hair replacement professionals worldwide, we offer marketing education and assistance as well as peer-to-peer collaboration. As a not-for-profit organization all materials are provided at cost, greatly reducing member’s marketing expenses and giving access to materials otherwise unaffordable. www.transitionshairlosscenters.com
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April 25-27, 2015 | The Westin Beach Resort and Spa 321 North Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd Fort Lauderdale, FL 33304 954-467-1111
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Member Conference Ticket $499 Stay at the Westin - Save $100 - $100 Admission Price $399* * THE FINE PRINT: All discounts offered are deducted from your 2015 Conference Ticket price. Must have room reservation confirmation number for $100 discount for staying at the Westin. Group room rates valid until 4/8/15.
D E M R I F N CO SEE PAGE 20
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IMAGES FROM 2014 CONFERENCE
TO REGISTER OR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT BETTY BUGDEN 570-462-1101 OR INFO@AHLC.ORG