United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine July 2010 by Ahmed Aamir

HEMISPHERES WHEEL WORLD THE GREATEST ROAD TRIPS EVER THREE PERFECT DAYS: AMSTERDAM PLUS: BRET EASTON ELLIS, VINTNER RANDALL GRAHM AND MAD MEN’S ELISABETH MOSS THE MAVERICK TALKING TRASH WITH BILLIONAIRE MARK CUBAN COOKOUT! ONE MAN’S GLOBAL BBQ ODYSSEY // // //

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The smooth strip of blacktop snaking along the Paciﬁc Ocean may be the single most awe-inspiring scenic drive in the country, if not the world. LONG AND WINDING ROADS | P. 62 Jul. LONG WINDINGANDROADS Put the top down, crank the music and embark on the most scenic and exciting drives in the world. 62 contents UNITED.COM | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM DUNAIDAVIDBYPHOTOGRAPH The Pacific Coast hIghway YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY 74 8070 THE HEMI Q&A: MARK CUBAN Billionaire and famously hot-tempered Dallas Mavericks owner Mark Cuban lets us in on a few business secrets. BY DAVID CARR GRILL CRAZY Hemispheres takes a culinary trip around the world—one family barbecue at a time. BY CHRIS ERICKSON PHOTOGRAPHS BY SASHA NIALLA THREE PERFECT DAYS: AMSTERDAM This charming city is historic, modern and, perhaps most important, eminently walkable, which makes seeing its sights in three days a real pleasure. BY ADAM K. RAYMOND PHOTOGRAPHS BY BALL & ALBANESE

COVER IMAGE Lotta Nieminen // pekkafinland.fi 4025 WRITE TO US: Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE 68 Jay St., Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES For a free subscription to our monthly eMag and to access recent issues, go to HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM 8 Comments 11 Voices Behind the scenes at United 14 Connections United.com is better than ever. DISPATCHES 17 Notes From All Over Star chef Ferran Adrià dishes in Singapore; a robot cleans up in Seoul; Tel Aviv’s best bars are hard to find; a San Diego surfing competition goes to the dogs; and VIPs have a blast at the Dallas Cowboys’ old stadium. 22 Wish You Were Here DIRECTIONS 25 News Where to stay, what to see, when to go 30 Whirlwind Five hours in Vancouver 33 Goods 37 Hero Prosper Ndabishuriye works to rebuild war-torn Burundi house by house. BY MICHAEL SHAPIRO CULTURE 39 Style Veuve Clicquot helps the jet set catch up on beauty sleep. BY TED LOOS 41 The Big Ten Bret Easton Ellis, Lady Gaga and what else to watch, read and listen to this month 44 Whereabouts Mad Men’s Elisabeth Moss is crazy about Chicago. 46 Tech Navigate the world of GPS technology. BY ALYSSA GIACOBBE 48 Sports A lifetime swimming-phobe finally takes the plunge. BY MIKE GUY 53 Food & Drink There’s something intoxicating about winemaker Randall Grahm. BY EDWARD LEWINE 57 Industry A young CEO brings the fun back to Wham-O toys. BY ALLISON WEISS ENTREKIN 61 Artifact A souvenir from the field PLAY 101 Movies, television and audio programming 112 Route Maps and Terminal Diagrams 124 Crossword and sudoku 130 Beverages & Food 134 In Transit Who’s sitting next to you? BEACHPINEOFBREAZEALE/COURTESYTOMBYPHOTOGRAPH South Korea’s Pine Beach golf course

WHAT DO YOU THINK? WRITE TO US! Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE 68 Jay

ADAM K. RAYMOND

Unitedherassignment“was(pageDays:Shootingpublications.“ThreePerfectAmsterdam”80),Ballsays,aspecialforDara,asmotherwasonceaﬂightattendant.”

The Hemispheres senior editor also writes for NYMag.com, GOOD and Mental Floss. He says of his time in Amsterdam (“Three Perfect Days,” page 80), “I really mastered riding a bicycle with my hands full of cheese and licorice. I think that will come in handy in New York.”

JULY 2010 | UNITED.COM comments EDITOR IN CHIEF Aaron Gell EXECUTIVE EDITOR Mike Guy SENIOR EDITORS Adam K. Raymond, Layla Schlack ART DIRECTOR Rob Hewitt DESIGNER Ellie Clayman PHOTO EDITOR Erin Giunta CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jane Black, Jason Gay, Alyssa Giacobbe Sarah Horne, Edward Lewine, Grant Stoddard, Matthew Thompson CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Claire Benoist, Spencer Heyfron, John Lawton, Graham Roumieu EDITORIAL INTERN Chelsea Warren PHOTO INTERN Winston Woo EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR Michael Keating U.S. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Orion Ray-Jones INK PUBLISHING, 68 Jay Street, Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 TEL: +1 347-294-1220 FAX: +1 Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com917-591-6247 hemispheresmagazine.com WEBMASTER Salah Lababidi ADVERTISING U.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Steve Andrews SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Andres Conde, Ari Kasimov, Catherine Hanson, Christa Abdou, Danny Litton, David Levy, David Low, Jorge Abadia REGIONAL REPRESENTATIVE HAWAII Robert Wiegand TEL: +1 808-587-8300 INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES CHINA/JAPAN TEL:JOSEPHINE.HO@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+85235419890 SOUTHEAST ASIA TEL:SHAZEEN.MOLEDINA@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+6563022465 EUROPE TEL:MARK.DUKE@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+442076138796 MIDDLE EAST TEL:ANTHONY.AZOURY@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+442076138798 LATIN AMERICA PRODUCTIONTEL:ALEJANDRO.SALAS@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+528150307415MANAGER Joe Massey TEL: +1 PRODUCTION678-553-8091CONTROLLERS Grace Rivera, Stacy Willis Ink Publishing (sales), Capital Building, 255 East Paces Ferry Road, Suite 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 TEL: +1 888-864-1733 FAX: +1 917-591-6247 INK PUBLISHING CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink Publishing. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither United, its subsidiaries nor afﬁliates guarantees the accuracy, completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a professional for tax and investment advice. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines. HEMISPHERES

Suite 315, Brooklyn,

CHRIS ERICKSON The Brooklyn, New York–based writer, who visited a succession of family barbecues for “Grill Crazy” (page 74), says he’s partial to Texas-style but loved trying heartening.”heonemorepeoplealternatives.international“Asarule,arenicerandgenerousthanmightexpect,”says.“It’sreally We always strive to be fun and engaging, but inspiring our readers is even better. That’s why we were so delighted by an email from Laura Blake: “I just wanted to tell you how much I loved your May issue,” she wrote. “The articles were interesting and inspiring; I appreciate the optimism in them. I was especially impressed with the proﬁle of [inventor] Dean Kamen. I wish there were more people with that kind of vision who also seem to know how to make their ideas a reality. I also really liked the Food & Drink article on the Asian carp and how chef Philippe Parola is turning something potentially devastating into something positive.”

Web commenter Carla Marie Rupp was especially touched by our May proﬁle of Yoshio Toyama (“Instruments of Change”): “Yoshio and his wife, Keiko, are truly heroes for helping children in New Orleans with instruments,” she wrote. “I have heard this wonderful couple perform in New Orleans at the Satchmo Summerfest, sponsored by French Quarter Festivals (August 5–8 this year) and in New York at Birdland, and they are amazing in their love for the spirit of Louis Armstrong.”

Meanwhile, “Kicking and Screaming” (June, ’10), Josh Dean’s piece about his soccer obsession, in which he describes once wearing the Stars and Stripes around his shoulders in support of the national team, missed the goal with Richard F. Cameron, a United ﬁrst ofﬁcer and Navy veteran. “I don’t doubt Mr. Dean’s patriotic fervor,” Cameron wrote, “but the manner in which he displayed it was entirely inappropriate.” He’s absolutely right, and we deeply regret any offense. St. NY 11201

? Proof ContributorsPositive 8

BALL & ALBANESE Photography team Wendy Ball and Dara Albanese have contributed to Condé Nast Traveller UK and Travel + Leisure, among other

The results are in for the first quarter of 2010, and United is once again #1 in on-time arrivals of domestic scheduled flights among US Airways, Delta, Continental and American. Holding the top spot is a victory for the people of United who are working together on behalf of the customers who depend on us.

United. #1 in on-time arrivals of America’s ﬁve largest global carriers in .

And1ST Quarter2010.*

*According to recently published arrival data in the U.S. Department of Transportation Air Travel Consumer Report, United ranked highest in on-time performance for domestic scheduled flights as measured by the U.S. DOT (flights arriving within 14 minutes of scheduled arrival time) between 1/1/09-3/31/10, when compared to the five largest U.S. global carriers based on available seat miles, enplaned passengers or passenger revenue, which includes US Airways, Delta (including its Northwest subsidiary), Continental and American.

Membership in Mileage Plus is a tiered system, allowing the airline to show its appreciation to its most committed ﬂiers. Those who reach 25,000 miles—ﬂying either United or other Star Alliance carriers—are Premier Members; Premier Executive level is for 50,000 and up, and those

voicesRewards

SERVICESCREATIVEAIRLINESUNITEDBYPHOTOGRAPHS

Graham Atkinson ﬂips loyaltyanpromisingrichrepresentPlusdecadesthroughofMileagecardsthatthehistoryandfutureofindustryleadingprogram.

GRAHAM ATKINSON, THE PRESIDENT OF MILEAGE PLUS, HAS

IN MID-MAY, Graham Atkinson, president of Mileage Plus, was looking for a special way to celebrate his wife’s birthday. He settled on a long weekend at the St. Regis hotel in Rome. It was a welcome getaway, but also a working vacation: Atkinson booked the room on united.com using United Mileage Plus miles racked up on his new Mileage Plus Visa card—putting to the test several of the new products the division has begun offering in the last year. It’s been a busy time for Atkinson and his team at United’s headquarters on Chicago’s Wacker Drive as they’ve sought to ensure that the airline’s signature loyalty program—named best frequent flier traveler program by Global Traveler magazine for six years straight—remains the industry leader. United Mileage Plus has been around for three decades, but as loyalty programs have been embraced by other industries, from coffee shops to filling stations, Atkinson says, “We’ve responded by taking a hard look at the knowledge we’ve gained over the years, offering more options for redeeming awards, broadening the range of products people can use their miles for and pushing forward on experiential benefits and other enhancements.”

The goal of Mileage Plus, he explains, is to connect with two distinct types of valued customers. “First you’ve got the very engaged United customer, who ﬂies a great deal and is looking to make the experience as pleasant as possible. He or she is all about recognition: upgrades, priority check-in and boarding, enhanced telephone service and so on. Then there’s the customer who might not ﬂy often but is looking for value. For them it’s about accumulating miles and exchanging them for great rewards.”

GIVEN UNITED’S AWARD-WINNING LOYALTY PROGRAM AN UPGRADE... IN MORE WAYS THAN ONE. // BY AARON GELL

Recognition and

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2010

INVESTORS AND SECURITY HOLDERS OF CONTINENTAL ARE URGED TO READ THE JOINT PROXY STATEMENT/PROSPECTUS AND OTHER RELEVANT DOCUMENTS THAT WILL BE FILED WITH THE SEC CAREFULLY AND IN THEIR ENTIRETY WHEN THEY BECOME AVAILABLE BECAUSE THEY WILL CONTAIN IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT THE PROPOSED TRANSACTION. Investors and stockholders will be able to obtain free copies of the joint proxy statement/prospectus and other documents containing important information about UAL and Continental, once such documents are filed with the SEC, through the website maintained by the SEC at http://www.sec.gov. Copies of the documents filed with the SEC by UAL will be available free of charge on UAL’s website at www.united.com or by contacting UAL’s Investor Relations Department at (312) 997-8610. Copies of the documents filed with the SEC by Continental will be available free of charge on Continental’s website at www.continental.com or by contacting Continental’s Investor Relations Department at (713) 324-5152.

“If on a domestic departure there are seats available in the first class cabin, and you are an elite, we will give you that seat at no cost,” Atkinson explains. “It’s automatic. That’s a huge deal for these customers. Same thing with Economy Plus seating, which offers up to five extra inches of legroom. The surprise and delight in getting these upgrades persuades them to fly us more.”

IMPORTANT INFORMATION FOR INVESTORS AND STOCKHOLDERS This communication does not constitute an offer to sell or the solicitation of an offer to buy any securities or a solicitation of any vote or approval. The proposed merger of equals transaction between UAL Corporation (“UAL”) and Continental Airlines, Inc. (“Continental”) will be submitted to the respective stockholders of UAL and Continental for their consideration. UAL will ﬁle with the Securities and Exchange Commission (“SEC”) a registration statement on Form S-4 that will include a joint proxy statement of Continental and UAL that also constitutes a prospectus of UAL. UAL and Continental also plan to ﬁle other documents with the SEC regarding the proposed transaction.

At the root of these transformations, Atkinson says, is a core understanding of just how important a loyalty program can be to frequent ﬂiers.

For more information, please go to Unitedcontinentalmerger.com.

All of these so-called “elite travelers” are eligible for United’s new unlimited domestic upgrades.

12 JULY 2010 | UNITED.COM who fly 100,000 miles are the vaunted 1Ks. The top tier, known as Global Services, is based not simply on miles flown but the customers’ value to United’s bottom line, for example corporate travel influencers and other high-value travelers (like the George Clooney character in Up in the Air).

voices

Getting lucky isn’t the only way to upgrade, Atkinson adds, noting that “United has the best suite of upgrade option products in the marketplace,” including the ability to purchase preferred seating with miles or cash.

UAL, Continental and certain of their respective directors and executive officers may be deemed to be participants in the solicitation of proxies from the stockholders of Continental in connection with the proposed transaction. Information about the directors and executive officers of Continental is set forth in its proxy statement for its 2010 annual meeting of stockholders, which was filed with the SEC on April 23, 2010. Information about the directors and executive officers of UAL is set forth in its proxy statement for its 2010 annual meeting of stockholders, which was filed with the SEC on April 30, 2010. These documents can be obtained free of charge from the sources indicated above. Other information regarding the participants in the proxy solicitation and a description of their direct and indirect interests, by security holdings or otherwise, will be contained in the joint proxy statement/prospectus and other relevant materials to be filed with the SEC when they become available. CONTINUED ON PG. 14 “You go to united.com, and it’s like an online travel agency, except your currency is in miles,” notes Mileage Plus president Graham Atkinson.

“That’s an industry leading product,” Atkinson says. What’s more, fliers can also use miles for flights on Star Alliance partners such as Continental and US Airways, booking directly from united.com. “It’s all about making it easier to use those miles.” It’s easier than ever to earn those miles, too, by choosing from a unique family of Mileage Plus credit cards offering different combinations of benefits—such as access to Red Carpet Clubs, Economy Plus seating or the ability to earn double or triple miles on United purchases—each geared toward a different customer segment. “You can earn miles as well as burn them,” Atkinson says, using a bit of industry jargon. “And Elite travelers can rack up miles very Atkinson’squickly.”nexttask will involve the proposed merger of United with its Star Alliance partner Continental Airlines. “It’s a big deal,” he says. “Our intention is to combine the best of both programs into the industry-leading loyalty program, giving people a much broader network through which to earn miles and an even more attractive set of destinations for which to redeem them.”

Many of these executives spend so much of their time on the road—or in the air—that a personal bond is forged between traveler and airline: Friendships develop between United employees and regular customers, and Red Carpet Clubs become something of a home away from home. “People get to know the employees at their home airports quite well,” Atkinson says. “They really become part of the United family. The level of engagement and connection that many of our best customers have with us is something most businesses can only dream about.

And once the deal is approved, existing miles from both programs will be merged. “Nobody is going to lose their miles,” he promises.

Another radical change: Last year, Mileage Plus took the bold step of doing away with “close-in fees,” a common industry practice which requires anyone redeeming miles within 21 days of their ﬂight to pay a premium. “We were the ﬁrst airline to eliminate that fee,” Atkinson says. “We wanted to send a strong message to our most committed and loyal customers that they’re important to us. We get it.”

It’s a very precious and very valuable relationship to us.”

The ability to redeem miles for hotels—such as the St. Regis—and car rentals is another enhancement. “And we’ve made it so much easier to execute,” Atkinson says. “You just go to united.com and it’s like an online travel agency, except your currency is miles.” And if a customer doesn’t have enough miles to purchase that ﬂight or hotel room? Members can now opt for oneway awards, magazine subscriptions and other rewards. And the Miles & Money program allows travelers to supplement their miles with cash.

One to three bedrooms & penthouses from $1.4 million in the heart of Chicago’s Magnificent Mile. PLEASE CALL TO SCHEDULE A PRIVATE SHOWING: 312-242-5980 VISIT US ONLINE: TheResidencesChicago.com A PRISM DEVELOPMENT your arrival. SAVOR The Ritz-Carlton Residences, Chicago, Magnificent Mile are not owned, developed or sold by The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, L.L.C. NM Project Company LLC uses The Ritz-Carlton marks under license from The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, L.L.C. DEVELOPER NO. 1898487 A PRISM DEVELOPMENT .......

UNITED IS FIRST US AIRLINE TO SUPPORT THE UN GLOBAL COMPACT United makes it easy to log on to united.com with complimentary Wi-Fi service in all U.S. Red Carpet Club locations.

UNITED.COM® MAKES YOUR TRAVEL CONSIDERABLY EASIER

CAUTIONARY STATEMENT REGARDING FORWARD-LOOKING STATEMENTS

This communication contains “forward-looking statements” within the meaning of the safe harbor provisions of the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995 that are not limited to historical facts, but reflect Continental’s and UAL’s current beliefs, expectations or intentions regarding future events. Words such as “may,” “will,” “could,” “should,” “expect,” “plan,” “project,” “intend,” “anticipate,” “believe,” “estimate,” “predict,” “potential,” “pursue,” “target,” “continue,” and similar expressions are intended to identify such forward-looking statements. These forward-looking statements include, without limitation, Continental’s and UAL’s expectations with respect to the synergies, costs and other anticipated financial impacts of the proposed transaction; future financial and operating results of the combined company; the combined company’s plans, objectives, expectations and intentions with respect to future operations and services; approval of the proposed transaction by stockholders and by governmental regulatory authorities; the satisfaction of the closing conditions to the proposed transaction; the timing of the completion of the proposed transaction; and other factors that are set forth in the “Risk Factors” section, the “Legal Proceedings” section, the “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations” section and other sections of UAL’s and Continental’s Annual Reports on Form 10-K, subsequent Quarterly Reports on Form 10-Q, recent Current Reports on Form 8-K, and other SEC filings. All subsequent written and oral forward-looking statements concerning Continental, UAL, the proposed transaction or other matters and attributable to Continental or UAL or any person acting on their behalf are expressly qualified in their entirety by the cautionary statements above. Neither Continental nor UAL undertakes any obligation to publicly update any of these forward-looking statements to reflect events or circumstances that may arise after the date hereof. FROM 12 WHEN YOU’RE ON THE ROAD—OR, MORE LIKELY, IN THE AIR—there are certain things you just can’t live without. Your smart phone. A good book. Your favorite magazine. Whatever your musthave travel item, you can add one more to the mix: united.com. We have introduced a host of improvements sure to make united.com one of your favorite travel companions.

PG.

CONTINUED

SERVICESCREATIVEAIRLINESUNITEDBYPHOTOGRAPHS

Point and Click

JULY 2010 | UNITED.COM 14 connections

New additions include an auto-fill feature for selecting destinations and a two-month calendar view to make planning your trips quicker and easier. New search tools help you refine your flight options with ease. There’s also an option to purchase tickets using PayPal™.

The United Nations’ Global Compact brings together businesses around the world to safeguard the environment and promote social Unitedresponsibility.isproudtobe the ﬁrst U.S. airline to support the UN Global Compact as we advance our work in corporate responsibility. Our involvement in the UN Global Compact is another example of the meaningful and transparent actions we are taking to serve.indifferencechallengesenvironmentaladdressandsocial–makingaathomeandthecommunitieswe

And we have simplified the travel review summary and added a new click-to-chat function: Live, personal assistance with planning and booking is just a mouse-click away. And who wants to get the best value for their travel dollar? Well, of course, you do! You can always find the lowest available United fare at united.com, and soon you’ll find new calendar tools that enable you to view flights and fares over a longer travel period, so that you can always find a fare and schedule combination that meets your needs. And there’s more to come at united.com—available now on your computer or your mobile device. Simplify your travels. Book, manage and check in all on united.com.

POLARIZE DEEPERLOOK CLIMBER. SKIER. PHOTOGRAPHER. EXPLORER. JIMMY CHIN

The Thinker SINGAPORE A STAR CHEF TURNS DOWN THE HEAT. ILLUSTRATIONS BY GRAHAM ROUMIEU 17 NOTES FROM ALL OVER dispatches

LAST FEBRUARY, Spanish chef/guru Ferran Adrià blanched the culinary world when he announced he would be shutting down his revered restaurant, El Bulli, for two years starting in 2012. The reason wasn’t lack of interest; to get a table at this molecular gastronomy mecca, which is two hours north of Barcelona, guests reserve some six months in advance. Culinary chins wagged. What could the mercurial Adrià— whose dishes often require liquid nitrogen and calcium chloride and include such mirthful ingredients as “frozen air of Parmigiano”—have up his sleeve?

Standing backstage at the World Gourmet Summit, where chefs, food lovers and potential investors gather from around the world to discuss the future of food, Adrià is about to present the documentary A Day at El Bulli. Sipping a coffee, he tries to explain his decision.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2010

“People wonder, If El Bulli is where everyone wants to go and if we are winning all the prizes, why change?” says the 47-year-old Adrià, who has a surprisingly calm and pleasant demeanor for a superstar chef. “They say we should be opening El Bullis around the world. But the most important thing for me is that we are happy with what we are doing. If we aren’t, we won’t cook well, and the customers won’t be happy.

“We’ve spent the last twenty-ﬁve years creating something new every year,” he goes on. “But working ﬁfteen hours a day leaves us very little time to create. Even the months we take off during the winter aren’t enough.”

So in 2012, El Bulli will close its doors to the hungry public and transform its kitchen into a think tank gastronomique. Chefs and scientists will huddle together in Adrià’s laboratory and ﬁgure out where the next culinary revolution will take us. The chef is visibly thrilled at the idea. “There will be nothing like it in the world. There are no references. That’s the magical part. That’s the challenge.” S. INDRAMALAR

18 JULY 2010 | UNITED.COM dispatches

JAYME OTTO Hide and Seek TEL AVIV SEOUL ROBOMOP Not unlike the flying car and the food pill, the robotic housekeeper is one of the promises of modern technology that we’ve been awaiting since The Jetsons went into reruns. Now, after decades of false starts, we’re finally getting a robotic maid/butler worth his weight (121 pounds) in Swiffer refills. Mahru-Z, the brainchild of the Korea Institute of Science and Technology in Seoul, can cook, clean and even brew coffee and deliver it to you in bed. All you’ve got to do is keep him Mahru-Zcharged.isfour feet tall and equipped with two arms, two legs and six fingers (including opposable thumbs). One afternoon at the institute’s testing grounds in Seoul, Mahru-Z is showing off. He walks like a human, but slowly—taking 15 minutes to brew coffee in the test kitchen and 30 seconds to navigate the 10 or so feet to the utility room, where he places test socks in a drier. His repertoire includes other basic chores such as vacuuming and straightening up magazines on a coffee table.

There’s another incentive for the covert clubbing: The municipality of Tel-Aviv taxes owners for storefront signs, so keeping things discreet actually reduces overhead.

At night, Lilienblum Street is transformed from a subdued shopping lane to a crowded locus of revelers. You’d think with the excess of places to socialize, a club would try to stand out. Not so the Mirpah, which doesn’t advertise at all. In fact, it goes to great lengths to conceal its identity. A small placard outside the door announces a long-defunct doctor’s office within (the name is a Hebrew term for a medical checkup). But patrons who enter through a nondescript door and descend a set of beige stairs find a barely lit dance club featuring Tel Aviv’s best DJs. After it opened last year, word of Mirpah’s existence spread through Twitter and Facebook. The crowds on Lilienblum sought it out, compelled by curiosity and by that unquantifiable compulsion among the hip set not to miss out on something cool.

“The misleading signage was done for fun, something quirky to set the new club apart,” says Dean Ezekiel, the CEO of Tel Aviv VIP Nightlife. The concept caught on. Since Mirpah’s opening, a dozen clubs have sprung up in secret.

Besides Mirpah, there’s Tzalin, a nightclub hidden behind the façade of an electronics store, and the justopened Shu Shu, Hebrew for hush hush, which is literally underground and accessible only through the back door of a yogurt shop. Then there’s the recently shuttered Itz, a former favorite that opened on weeknights in the annex of a synagogue.Suchclubs seem to disappear almost as fast as people hear about them, which is part of the allure. “We like the attention that comes from the short life span,” says Ezekiel. “And we love that the club becomes legend.”

“We’re trying to commercialize robots for home use, especially to help the elderly or the disabled,” explains You Bum-Jae, head of the institute’s cognitive robotics center, as Mahru-Z passes him running a vacuum attachment. “Toyota and Hitachi have announced that they will also be selling home service robots by 2013, so I think this is something we will see more of in the future.”Roboservants have long been an obsession of high-tech culture, and in recent years, they’ve quietly gone more mainstream. Spanish bank Santander recently launched a line of bright red thecleanbutpromisechangeanticipatesformarketedbulkyfromcouple’srobotheadquarters,visitorspods-on-wheelsrobotictoguidearounditsMadridandinMayapresidedoveraTokyowedding.ButMahru-ZisafarcryWALL-E.Slightlyandslow,hewon’tbecommerciallymonths.Still,Youit’llradicallythehousehold.Thatmaysoundfamiliar,effortlesshotcoffeeandsocksarewellworthwait.—CHRISTINACOUCH

*Bose payment plan available on orders of $299-$1500 paid by major credit card. Separate financing offers may be available for select products. See website for details. Down payment is 1/12 the product price plus applicable tax and shipping charges, charged when your order is shipped. Then, your credit card will be billed for 11 equal monthly installments beginning approximately one month from the date your order is shipped, with 0% APR and no interest charges from Bose. Credit card rules and interest may apply. U.S. residents only. Limit one active financing program per customer. ©2010 Bose Corporation. Patent rights issued and/or pending. The distinctive design of the headphone oval ring is a trademark of Bose Corporation. Financing and Mileage Plus® bonus miles offer not to be combined with other offers or applied to previous purchases, and subject to change without notice. Offer valid 7/1/10-7/31/10. Purchasers must use the phone number or website above to receive this offer. Risk free refers to 30-day trial only and does not include return shipping. Delivery is subject to product availability. Mileage Plus offer valid only on product advertised. The 1,200 miles for above Bose product advertised are awarded in place of the standard Bose offer. If a different product is purchased, the standard offer of 2 Mileage Plus miles for every U.S. dollar spent will be honored. Miles accrued and awards issued are subject to the rules of the United Mileage Plus® program. United, its subsidiaries, affiliates and agents are not responsible for any products and services of other participating companies or partners. Please allow 6 to 8 weeks after completed qualifying activity for bonus miles to be posted to your Mileage Plus account. Bonus miles and miles earned through non-flight activity do not count toward elite status. Bonus mile offers are subject to change without notice. Taxes and fees related to award travel are the responsibility of the passenger. United may change Mileage Plus Program rules, regulations, travel awards and special offers or terminate the Mileage Plus program at any time and without notice. Mileage Plus participation may not be permitted in some countries. United and Mileage Plus are registered service marks. Quotes reprinted with permission. C_008472

Welcome to an even quieter world.

Quieter than ever before.

Introducing Bose® QuietComfort® 15 Acoustic Noise Cancelling® headphones.

Earn 1,200 United Mileage Plus® miles from Bose when you order QuietComfort 15 headphones by July 31, 2010. To order or learn more: 1-800-404-2073, ext. Q7954 or visit Bose.com/UA

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Our best headphones. Since we introduced the world’s first noise cancelling headphones over 20 years ago, we have conducted continuous research to improve this technology. Now, we have engineered significant advances in noise reduction to make the QC®15 headphones our quietest ever. Exclusive Bose technologies electronically sense more of the sounds around you, reducing more noise across a wider range of frequencies. And we didn’t stop there. We developed a new ear cushion that further reduces unwanted noise and helps create an extremely comfortable fit. It works in harmony with the electronics to deliver a better listening experience. Mark A. Kellner of The Washington Times says they “reproduce music with extreme clarity, fidelity and definition.” Try them for yourself risk free. When you fly, the engine roar fades even further away. When you listen to music at home or at work, fewer distractions get in the way. Less noise, along with our acclaimed lifelike sound, a fit that stays comfortable for hours and the quality you expect from Bose. It all adds up to a combination of benefits unmatched in the industry. Seth Porges of Popular Mechanics states that “Compared to the competition…the QC15s are vastly superior.” You can relax and appreciate music, movies or just some serenity more than ever before. We invite you to try QC15 headphones for yourself risk free for 30 days. And when you call, ask about making 12 easy payments, with no interest charges from Bose.*

KIMBALL TAYLOR

“Now, you folks probably know this,” Mrs. Landry says quietly with an impish smile. “But that big hole in the roof is there so that God could watch his team.”

No wonder: Her owner and trainer is local big-wave surfer Scott “Honestly,Chandler.Ihaven’t taught her a thing,” Chandler says as Zoey prepares for the first heat by nudging a squeaky rubber bone across Chandler’s beach towel. “She’s a total natural. And she’s very mellow.” The head judge for this year’s event is the Loews Coronado’s general manager, Kathleen Cochran. As she blows the starting whistle, dogs and owners take to the water with surfboards in a chaos of shouts and barks— “Oscar!” “Lacey, come!” “This way, Chelsea!” Cochran says her scoring criteria are evolving. “Do they have all four paws on the boards? Do they sit or wag their tails? Are they confident? Confidence is key.” None of the dogs (even Zoey) has mastered the art of paddling out; instead each owner wades out with a pooch under one arm and a board under the other, then places the dog on the board and gives it a shove as a swell approaches. Many dogs sit casually (if warily); some actually walk the board and “ride the nose.” Many simply fall off As it happens, Zoey spends much of the morning in the water. The winner in her category is an Australian kelpie named Abbie Girl (who wins a free night at Loews). “Next year she’ll be better prepped,” Chandler says. As though on cue, Zoey looks up from her towel and lets out a confident bark.

In just an hour, sirens will sound, and Texas Stadium, for 37 years home to the storied football team, will be felled with a controlled detonation. The event (sponsored by Kraft Foods) is named the “Cheddar Explosion.”

Just after 5:45, three sirens sound, and dust suddenly rises off the dome as 2,715 pounds of explosives detonate. It takes 47 seconds for Texas Stadium to transform from one of the world’s elite sporting venues into a pile of rubble. More than four million pounds of concrete and rebar collapse with enough force to register on seismographs throughout the area.

The crowd cheers as the sound reaches the VIP area. Someone points to a billboard showing the Cowboy’s new 80,000-seat stadium in Arlington, which cost $1.2 billion to build and houses the largest HDTV screen in the world.

Policemen, ﬁremen and workers in blaze-orange vests guard the two-mile perimeter of the blast area. In the VIP section— where reporters, Cowboys glitterati and dignitaries ﬂown in by the Irving Chamber of Commerce from as far away as Beijing, are gathered—Alicia Landry, the widow of longtime ’Boys coach Tom Landry, remembers the old days.

dispatchesWellbeforedawn,

“I love the new stadium,” says Pam Seal, a cheerleader for the 1975 team. “But this was much more emotional than I expected. It’s like saying goodbye to an old friend.”—MIKE GUY Having a Blast IRVING, TEXAS SAN DIEGO HOT-DOGGING

There are 65 canines entered into the fifth annual Loews Coronado Bay Resort Surf Dog Competition, and not one of them has been scolded for digging in the sand. A crowd of 2,000 cheers them on (more than attend most human surfing contests).Asthestarting time approaches, the contestants appear wound up, barking nervously. But most go with the flow, chasing tennis balls, panting and lapping water from communal troughs. There are dogs in sunglasses, Aloha shirts, life vests and swimsuits. There are big dogs and small dogs, water dogs and dogs clearly not meant to swim. Few are as adept as Zoey, a proud, shrill Jack Russell terrier. Zoey is the reigning champion, and this year she’s looking to win her fourth consecutive trophy.

the crowds start to file sleepily along the dark streets of Irving like zombies in Dallas Cowboys regalia. The flashing lights of police cruisers blink, and on the horizon the giant dome of Texas Stadium, noted for decades of Cowboys dominance and a gaping hole in the roof, is lit by hundreds of floodlights.

20 JULY 2010 | UNITED.COM

Best coverage worldwide. More phones that work in more countries, like China. att.com/global Best coverage claim based on global coverage of U.S. carriers. Activation of international service required. ©2010 AT&T Intellectual Property. Service provided by AT&T Mobility. All rights reserved. AT&T, the AT&T logo, and all other marks contained herein are trademarks of AT&T Intellectual Property and/or AT&T affiliated companies. All other marks contained herein are the property of their respective owners. Coverage not available in all areas.

STATE OF GRAZE // Cows enjoy golden light in Burren National Park. 22 JULY 2010 | UNITED.COMwish you were here

COUNTY CLARE, IRELAND // PHOTOGRAPH BY JESSICA SCHWARTZBERG

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2010 25 WHERE TO STAY / WHAT TO SEE / WHEN TO GOnews RAMATUELLERÉSERVELAOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPH directions No Reservations If the glitz and glamour of jet-set St. Tropez is a tad over the top, try retreating to La Reserve Ramatuelle, a luscious new seaside spa overlooking the Côte D’Azur. Dine on exquisite, detox-friendly cuisine and park yourself on a chaise by the inﬁnity pool, which is perched hundreds of feet above the water. Or stop by the spa for some hydrotherapy and a massage. The rooms are all cooled by the steady sea breeze, and a pillow menu assures that you’ll sleep well. Caution: Occasionally a celebrity stops by. lareserve-ramatuelle.com SPOTLIGHTHOTEL

EDIBLE HEIRLOOMS Tennessee’s highest-rated hotel is getting in touch with its roots in a very literal way. The Hermitage Hotel in Nashville has announced a partnership with the Land Trust of Tennessee to plant a garden of vegetables that were popular in the 19th century on historic farmland near the hotel. The Hermitage has carefully researched seed records from the 1800s and will serve these heirloom vegetables to guests as part of the hotel’s 100th birthday celebration. If you’re interested in doing your part, pay an extra two dollars for your room to help fund the project. thehermitagehotel.com

26 JULYCALENDAR SLAPSTICON,OFCOURTESYAMERICAS,THEOFBIENNIALOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHSTOP:FROMCLOCKWISE SHUTTERSTOCKBYHOTEL,HERMITAGEOFCOURTESYPITCHFORK,OFHINES/COURTESYANNLEIGHBYPHOTOGRAPH news 10-11 BUFFALO, NEW YORK // Not sure what you want to eat ﬁrst at Taste of Buffalo? Just wing it. tasteofbuffalo.com 15-18 ALEXANDRIA, VIRGINIA // After you’ve seen the summer blockbusters, take in some real comedy— courtesy of Laurel and Hardy and Buster Keaton— at Slapsticon. slapsticon.org 16-18 CHICAGO // Modest Mouse, Pavement, Raekwon and Robyn are just a sample of Pitchfork Music Festival’s varied, if impeccably cool, lineup. pitchforkmusicfestival.com INTERNATIONAL ART SEEN // Explore the Western Hemisphere without leaving the Rockies this month in Denver. The Biennial of the Americas features public art installations, exhibitions, music, dance and discussions of culture and politics— basically anything to the left of the prime meridian. biennialoftheamericas.org ALL THAT JAZZ! Old Town Warsaw will be home to cool sounds on hot July and August nights. The jazztodrawNahornyasPolishFunklikeinternationalaconcertsfreeSquareJazzInternationalattheOldTownisaseriesofSaturdaynightfeaturinglineupcombiningartistsBryanCorbett&DeNitewithlocalfavoritessuchtheWlodzimierzTrio,whothousandsanightwelcomethenewage. jazznastarowce.pl JULY 2010 | UNITED.COM

3. For information and details about the Commission Free Trade offer, please visit www.etrade.com/tradefree. Commission-free trade offer applies to a new E*TRADE CompleteTM Investment Account opened with $2,000 minimum deposit. The new account holder will receive a maximum of 500 free trade commissions for each stock or options trade executed within 60 days of the deposited funds clearing in the new account. You will pay $9.99 for your ﬁrst 149 stock or options trades (plus an additional 75¢ per options contract). You will pay $7.99 for stock or options trades between 150 and 500 trades (plus an additional 75¢ per options contract). Your account will be credited $9.99 for the ﬁrst 149 stock or options trades and $7.99 for stock and options trades between 150 and 500 within eight weeks of trade execution (excluding options contract fees). Accounts must be opened by December 31, 2010, the offer expiration date. Limit one per customer. Securities products and services are offered by E*TRADE Securities LLC, Member FINRA/SIPC. System response and account access times may vary due to a variety of factors, including trading volumes, market conditions, system performance and other factors. E*TRADE FINANCIAL Corp. All rights reserved.

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28 21-25 SEOUL // Every day is Saturday morning at the 14th annual Seoul International Cartoon & Animation Festival. sicaf.org

When TutankhamunKing died at age 18 in 1323 BC, he was entombed with enough treasures for two kingtut.org

JanuaryExpositionTimesNewofandwhileDenverGreatGoldenopeningmonthexhibitions.separateThisbringstheof“TheKingandthePharaohs”attheArtMuseum,“TutankhamuntheGoldenAgethePharaohs”isatYork’sDiscoverySquareuntil2.

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PINING AWAY // It’s been a good year for Korean golfers: Y.E. Yang became the ﬁrst Asian to win a PGA major, and Koreans continue to dominate the LPGA. Now comes Pine Beach, a stunning new course in Haenam built on towering headlands along the Yellow Sea. Thirteen of its holes run along the water, and the rest wind through towering cypress and pine trees. pinebeachcc.co.kr

SEVENTH HEAVEN // Paris has its share of luxury hotels, but none like the new Le Seven. The 28room property has themed suites, including Black Diamond (shown here), and “levitating” beds and bathtubs. sevenhotelparis.com

It’s been 20 years since David Lynch’s series ﬁrst aired, and people are still ﬂocking to Twin Peaks Fest. Maybe it’s the cherry pie? twinpeaksfest.com 14-31 BUENOS AIRES // Stick a rose between your teeth and make your way to the World Tango Festival in the city where the dance was invented. mundialdetango.gob.ar news

SNAP, CRACKLE, POPS // To celebrate its 125th anniversary, the Boston Pops teamed up with Alec Baldwin and Chris Cooper, who will read the words of John, Robert and Edward Kennedy over music conducted by Keith Lokhart. Catch “The Dream Lives On: A Portrait of the Kennedy Brothers” with Baldwin at the Tanglewood Festival Chorus in Lenox, Massachusetts, on July 18. Cooper will perform on the Hyannis Village Green on Cape Cod on August 1. bso.org

JULYCALENDAR

AUGUST 6-8 NORTH BEND, WASHINGTON

JEWEL OF THE NILE

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Stop ﬁrst at the popular Public Market (granvilleisland.com/public-market) and poke through its dizzying selection of tchotchkes and gourmet munchies. Then ditch the crowd for Railspur Alley and peruse the handcrafted wares at Funk Shui Atelier and Hartman Leather. Grab a souvenir for friends back home and a couple more for yourself. (2:00)

Finally, book on over to the nearby historic district Gastown (gastown.org), where a steam clock—one of a handful in the world that still work—announces the quarter hour with a whistle and chime. Time to head home. (5:00)

Tighten your laces and speed-walk through the Museum of Anthropology (6393 NW Marine Dr.; moa.ubc.ca), which showcases thousands of artworks, tools and other objects created by the indigenous First Nations peoples. On your way out, pause to admire the towering First Nations totem poles. Just remember, no climbing. (0:30)

Hail a taxi and have the driver take you along the waterfront to Granville Island (granvilleisland.com), a former industrial wasteland that’s home to a busy market and pedestrian-only alleys full of artisan shops. Toss a loonie (that’s a Canadian one-dollar coin) to one of the island’s many buskers and get ready to shop. (1:15)

Once in Yaletown, scurry over to Blue Water Cafe + Raw Bar (1095 Hamilton St.; bluewatercafe.net) and nibble on expertly cut sashimi. The ﬁsh are farmed using sustainable practices, a point of pride in Vancouver, one of the world’s greenest cities. (3:45)

Catch another taxi to Peking Lounge (83 E Pender St.; pekinglounge.com), a little antiques shop in Chinatown stocked with traditional wooden Chinese baskets, lacquer trays, handcarved Buddha statues and curios such as a “silk wine jacket,” which is (yep) a silk jacket for wine bottles. (4:30)

There’s no better way to take in Vancouver’s incongruous skyline of glass towers and jagged mountains than from the water. And there’s no easier way to do it than by Aquabus (theaquabus.com). Hop aboard one of the colorful vessels and cross the truly gorgeous False Creek. Keep your ﬁnger on the shutter; this is prime picture territory. (2:30)

BOARDING PASS It’s the andshopping,withLookoutVancouverAquariumtheVancouver.yougetawayCanadianultimatewhenﬂyUnitedtoEnjoyVancouverandalongcosmopolitandiningnightlife.

Walk a few doors down to the Yaletown Brewing Company (1116 Hamilton St.; markjamesgroup.com), knock back a pint of Mainland lager and ﬁnd out why beer is Canada’s most popular boozy beverage. Or, if you prefer, run around the corner for an indulgence of a different sort at Chocoatl chocolatiers. (4:00)

Taught by Professor Robert G. Fovell, University of California, Los Angeles Lecture Titles

1. Nature Abhors Extremes 2. Temperature, Pressure, and Density 3. Atmosphere—Compositionand Origin 4. Radiation and the Greenhouse Effect 5. Sphericity, Conduction, and Convection 6. Sea Breezes and Santa Anas 7. An Introduction to Atmospheric Moisture 8. Bringing Air to Saturation 9. Clouds, Stability, and Buoyancy, Part 1 10. Clouds, Stability, and Buoyancy, Part 2 11. Whence and Whither the Wind, Part 1 12. Whence and Whither the Wind, Part 2 13. The Global Atmospheric Circulation 14. Fronts Extratropicaland Cyclones 15. Middle TroughsTroposphere—andRidges 16. Wind HorizontalShear—and Vertical 17. Mountain Influences on the Atmosphere 18. Thunderstorms, Squall Lines, and Radar 19. Supercells, Tornadoes, and Dry Lines 20. Ocean Influences on Weather and Climate 21. Tropical Cyclones 22. Light and Lightning 23. Prediction and Predictability 24. The Imperfect Forecast

Explore the Mystery and Intrigue behind the Weather Weather affects your life every day. From the transformation of water vapor into clouds to the swirling winds of a tornado, meteorological events are the result of intricate interactions between powerful forces around you. To grasp the mystery of these phenomena is to understand a remarkably complex system that continues to captivate scientists.

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Meteorology: An Introduction to the Wonders of the Weather is a fascinating foray into an enthralling ﬁeld of study. In 24 engaging lectures, you’ll explore the often surprising, always intriguing workings of the weather, guided by expert atmospheric scientist and Professor Robert G. Fovell. Combining geography, chemistry, physics, and other disciplines, he offers insights into lightning, cyclones, thunderstorms, and other wondrous aspects of one of nature’s most compelling mysteries.

This course is one of The Great Courses®, a noncredit, recorded college lecture series from The Teaching Company®. Award-winning professors of a wide array of subjects in the sciences and the liberal arts have made more than 300 college-level courses that are available now on our website.

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Mobile check-in is currently available for any United® - or United Express®-operated ﬂight within the U.S., Puerto Rico or the U.S. Virgin Islands. Mobile boarding passes are currently available for customers with seat assignments on ﬂights departing select airports on United®- and United Express®-operated itineraries within the United States, the U.S. Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico. ©2010 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

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Introducing United mobile check-in and boarding pass. Now you can check in on the go, and have your boarding pass sent directly to your phone for select itineraries. Just enter mobile.united.com into your browser to check in for your ﬂight, and to get your mobile boarding pass, complete with instructions on how to use it at the airport. To learn more visit united.com/mobileservices

37 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2010 RIDE ON BMW R 1200 GS / $15,000 / bmwmotorcycles.com Despite what Chevy Chase might have taught you, a road trip doesn’t have to take place in a beat-up station wagon with wooden panels and eight headlights. Take the BMW R 1200 GS, a motorcycle built to ﬂy up a rocky hillside just as easily as it tackles a steaming slab of asphalt. Its 110 horsepower and 88 pound-feet of torque mean this powerful bike can go much faster than the law allows. And unlike the family truckster, the GS gets 57 miles per gallon. Grab your helmet. GO AS MAD AS MAX FOR BMW’S LATEST BEEMER. BY ADAM K. RAYMOND // PHOTOGRAPHS BY NORIMICHI INOGUCHI Road WarriorgoodsWWW.K2CREATIVEMANAGEMENT.COM 33

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goods 1. OH SNAP Whether it’s photos or video, Canon’s new EOS 7D captures the world with ease. / $1,700 / canon.com 5 6 3 4 2 1 2. WATCH IT Never miss a show with the Flo TV, a streamscenterentertainmentpocket-sizethatliveTV. / $200 / flo.tv 3. ALL NET Small enough to fit in your wallet, the Mifi brings the internet to you anywhere you are. / $300 / novatelwireless.com 4. DRINK UP A travel mug has two jobs: keep drinks hot and don’t let them spill. The Contigo Autoseal does both. / $20 / gocontigo.com 5. GAME TIME vacation.wasThisforwasVacationmadeScrabble.Scrabblemadefor / $28 / flight001.com 6. CARRIED AWAY With his new line of bags, hip-hop mogul dothatSimmonsRussellprovesyes,hecaneverything. / $390 / argyleculture.com HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2010 35

A mean fastball and a surgeon’s skill put Adam back in the game. Shahab Abdessalam, M.D., and Adam Folsom Visit ChildrensOmaha.org 1.800.833.3100.

MOTIVATION “Peace education is not possible among families who do not have a home,” Ndabishuriye says. “That’s why we’re building homes for the survivors of the war and making communities. We’re building unity and peace.” more information, visit jrmd.org. SURVIVOR OF CIVIL WAR IN CENTRAL AFRICA BRINGS RIVAL YOUTH TOGETHER TO CONSTRUCT HOMES AND A NEW FUTURE. MICHAEL SHAPIRO PHOTOGRAPH BY JOSÉ MANDOJANA

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2010

•

NAME • PROSPER NDABISHURIYE, 53 MISSION • To build houses in war-torn Burundi and bring youth from the rival Hutu and Tutsi tribes together. Since its inception in 1994, the nonproﬁt Youth in Reconstruction of a World in Destruction (YRWD, or JRMD in French, one of Burundi’s primary languages) has erected 3,167 homes, Ndabishuriye says, serving some 25,000 people throughout Burundi, where a civil war in the 1990s and 2000s between Hutus and Tutsis led to hundreds of thousands of deaths and left countless civilians homeless. Ndabishuriye sees an opportunity not only to provide shelter but also to heal the rift by having youth from both tribes work together to rebuild their country. The project has expanded to construct schools, latrines and an orphanage for 160 kids, as well as provide mattresses and a microcredit program.

Building Peace hero 37

For

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TED

The bed is a one-off for now, but Lehanneur has big plans for it. “It’s the perfect device for an airport or a hotel,” he says. And yes, having made his bed, he has actually lain in it. “It was only a one-hour nap,” he recalls of his test run. “But it felt like a whole night.”

RIBONFELIPEOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPH

His latest project, a sleeping system called Once Upon a Dream, developed in collaboration with the legendary champagne house Veuve Clicquot, aims to wake up weary travelers.

BEING A MEMBER of the jet set isn’t all fun and games (mostly, but not all). One must deal with jet lag, for instance—though not for long, if Paris-based designer Mathieu Lehanneur has his way.

The project came about after Clicquot invited Lehanneur to invent something unique for a private 19th century guesthouse, in which the company (based in Reims, France) houses corporate visitors. In talking with the ﬁrm’s executives, Lehanneur learned that traveling through disparate time zones often took its toll on the vintner's guests, so he worked with a team of sleep scientists to devise a solution.

Once Upon a Dream—which is currently making the rounds of design fairs—resembles a canopy bed set on a stylized platform. But what a bed. The hanging ivy suspended over the occupant is actually a switch. With one touch, the device whirs to life: A curtain is drawn around the “sleeping capsule,” the room’s lights slowly dim, the temperature drops ever so slightly, and white noise begins to hum. As the sleeper drifts off, a micro-diffusion of sea air is released, providing metabolism-soothing antioxidants and hydration. He or she awakes rested and ready to face a new time zone.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUL Y 2010 39culture ART & COMMERCE design

LEHANNEURSleepingBeautyDESIGNERMATHIEUHELPSJET-LAGGEDTRAVELERSCATCHSOMESHUT-EYE. BY LOOS

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The Ten

JULY 16 AND 23 MAD MEN RETURNS • It’s been a while since we last saw Don Draper and his perfectly tailored suits. He returns this month with more sordid stories of life on Madison Avenue, as AMC’s vaunted drama enters its fourth season.

WHAT TO WATCH, READ AND LISTEN TO THIS MONTH

41 CULTURE | JULY 2010 (SALT),INCINDUSTRIES,PICTURESCOLUMBIAOFCOURTESYMEN),(MADOCKENFELS/AMCFRANKOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS (INCEPTION)MOSELEYMELISSAOFCOURTESYAIRBENDER),LAST(THEROSENTHALZADEOFCOURTESY arts

Big

ACTION PACKED • Inception (starring Leonardo DiCaprio) and Salt (Angelina Jolie) face off this month in a battle of big-budget blockbusters. Salt is a taut espionage thriller about a CIA agent accused of working for the enemy, while Inception is a sci-ﬁ mystery about a man who enters the minds of his victims through their dreams. Both promise to accompany popcorn perfectly.

JULY 25

THE AIR APPARENT • Based on an animated children’s series called Avatar (but what’s in a name?), M. Night Shyamalan’s The Last Airbender is a visually stunning fantasy saga about a young boy who must harness his mystical powers to end a war that threatens the future of earth. A trilogy is already in the works.

COLLECTOR’S EDITION • In her vividly wrought ﬁfth novel, The Cookbook Collector (Random House), author Allegra Goodman explores the relationship between two very different sisters and the struggle to actually live one’s life instead of just thinking about it—to actually cook, rather than merely studying recipes.

JULY 6 1 4 53 2 ILLUSTRATIONS BY CHLOÉ FLEURY 1 2 4 53

JULY 2

FRESH PRODUCE

• For years, web guru Clay Shirky writes in Cognitive Surplus: Creativity and Generosity in a Connected Age, we’ve squandered our free time watching TV. But the internet is changing that, allowing us to make art (YouTube), share knowledge (Wikipedia) and build a better mousetrap (Linux). That is, unless there’s a new CSI on... NOW

OUT

9 6 7 8 JULY 2010 | UNITED.COM 42

Bret Easton Ellis IN BRET EASTON ELLIS’ best-selling debut novel, Less Than Zero, a wealthy college student named Clay offered up a tale of Beverly Hills teens behaving very, very badly. Twenty-ﬁve years later, they’re still at it.

GAGA FOR GAGA

JULY 1

JULY 20

EASY RIDER For his ﬁrst exhibit as director of the Museum of Hollywoodbyphotographspaintingsshowcasesexhibit,curatesJulianandHopper.bypresentsJeffreyArtContemporaryinLosAngles,DeitchworksactorDennisPainterﬁlmmakerSchnabelthewhichandthebelovedrebel. 11

The reception also came as a surprise to Ellis’ publisher, which originally printed just 5,000 copies. “I thought no one beyond my friends would be remotely interested in it,” Ellis says, noting that it dawned on him only much later that he’d somehow tapped into the jaded fantasies of his generation.

WHAT’S LESS THAN ZERO PLUS 25?

JULY

HILL/TAYLORBY(PLANT),MILLER/FILMMAGICGARYBY(CROW),BRECHEISEN/WIREIMAGEBARRYBY(ELLIS),BURTONJEFFBYPHOTOGRAPHS COURTESYPRINT,SILVERGELATIN1964,GIRL,FRACTUREDHOPPER,DENNIS(GAGA);COLLECTIONPHOTOSHOT/EVERETTBY(DYLAN),FILMMAGIC

JULY

Those fantasies have a different weight now than they once did. In the new novel, Clay ﬁnds himself at the sort of Hollywood party he frequented years before, watching a glamorous new generation lounging around a sparkling Bel Air pool: “a mosaic of youth,” he writes, “a place you really don’t belong anymore.”

• Lady Gaga takes her outrageous outﬁts and outstanding voice on the road this summer as her spectacular stage show hits arenas all across the country. Don’t forget your pink tights.

BY AARON GELL

YORKNEWGALLERY,SHAFRAZITONY 6 7 98 arts

AND

“I really like the idea of revising these characters that I created so long ago,” Ellis says of his sequel, Imperial Bedrooms, out now from Knopf, “and seeing where I can take them Publishednow.”in1985, Less Than Zero turned its author into a star (a charter member, with his friend Jay McInerney, of the “literary brat pack”) and quickly spawned a feature ﬁlm, all the more heady considering the author was just 21 and still ﬁnishing a bachelor’s degree at Bennington College. “Sometimes I think maybe it was too soon,” he admits. “It didn’t seem odd to me then, but in retrospect it's completely crazy.”

CROW GOES SOUL • On her seventh studio album, 100 Miles from Memphis, Sheryl Crow lends her smoky voice to a host of soulful songs inﬂuenced by her childhood heroes Otis Redding, Aretha Franklin and Al Green. The album also honors her hometown, Kennett, Missouri, which is, naturally, 100 miles from Memphis.

MONSTERS OF ROCK • Bob Dylan is in Europe. Robert Plant and his Band of Joy are in the U.S. Both are out to prove that even though their poofs of curly hair have turned gray, they can still kick out the jams. 1 13

OAHU: Ala Moana Center Waikiki Beachwalk Hilton Hawaiian Village MAUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center Lahaina Cannery The Shops at Wailea Whalers Village Front Street (2 locations) Hyatt Regency Maui Grand Wailea Resort KAUAI: Poipu Shopping Village Grand Hyatt Kauai BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII: Kona Marketplace Kings’ Shops Hilton Waikoloa Village NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINES: Pride of America BOSTON: Natick Collection Northshore Mall CHICAGO: Oakbrook Center Woodfield Mall DALLAS: NorthPark Center DENVER: Cherry Creek Shopping Center LOS ANGELES: Glendale Galleria Northridge Fashion Center NEW YORK: Roosevelt Field ORLANDO: The Mall at Millenia PHILADELPHIA: The Plaza at King of Prussia PLEASANTON: Stoneridge Mall PORTLAND: Washington Square SAN DIEGO: Fashion Valley Horton Plaza SAN FRANCISCO: Pier 39 SAN JOSE: Valley Fair SEATTLE: Bellevue Square WASHINGTON, D.C.: Tysons Corner HawaiianTheCenterOriginalSlipperPendantwithDiamondsVarioussizesavailablefrom$239ChainadditionalWhiteorRoseGoldMatchingavailableEarrings

TIMES/REDUXYORKNEWSCANLON/THEKEVINBYPHOTOGRAPH

The Places I Go:

“My mom’s side of the family is in Chicago, so when I was growing up, we would visit two or three times a year. We didn’t do the fancy foodie thing, but we had some little rituals. We always went to Pizzeria Uno or Pizzeria Due right across the street, and both of them are fantastic. It’s the best pizza in the world. I also loved going to the Shedd Aquarium and The Art Institute of Chicago. We’d always look at very speciﬁc paintings, like Seurat’s A Sunday on La Grande Jatte, Edward Hopper’s Nighthawks or Grant Wood’s American Gothic “I went back to Chicago a few months ago with my husband [Saturday Night Live’s Fred Armisen] and a friend. It was so funny going to the Art Institute and looking at those same paintings. I almost feel like I own them or something, because I grew up looking at them. This time around, we stayed at The Ritz-Carlton, which is actually a Four Seasons hotel right off the Magniﬁcent Mile. We had a great view of Lake Michigan, and it was so amazing we barely wanted to leave the hotel. But my friend and I fell in love with this shop in Wicker Park called Penelope’s. It’s the most adorable place in the whole world. They have everything you could possibly want. I can’t wait to go back.”

THE MAD MEN STAR SEES THE SECOND CITY AS A SECOND HOME.

Elisabeth Moss will be returning to TV as Peggy Olson in AMC’s Mad Men on July 25.

Elisabeth Moss

JULY 2010 | UNITED.COM 44 whereabouts

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An NVIDIA® graphics processor with Optimus™ technology in your laptop provides both great battery life and great performance so you can work (and play) the way you want to. With Optimus™ technology, your laptop knows to shut down the GPU for simple things, like email and word processing and turn the GPU back on for more demanding activities like watching HD movies or playing games. You get performance when you need it, longer battery life when you don’t. It’s that simple. Power Up, It’s a Long Flight

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BY ALYSSA GIACOBBE // ILLUSTRATION BY QUICKHONEY On the Map

Unfortunately, since the battery just died it’s now the biggest paperweight on the plane. Wouldn’t it be nice to have enough battery life to last the length of this flight and the performance to do what you enjoy doing on your laptop? Now you can.

According to a recent report by NPD Group’s Mobile Phone Track, four out of ﬁve cell phones sold in the fourth quarter of 2009 came with GPS capability. But there’s more to guiding drivers than maps—navigation devices must provide turn-by-turn directions, too. For a while, in-car GPS systems were the only ones IN JUST OVER A DECADE, GPS HAS GONE FROM LUXURY TO UBIQUITOUS TECHNOLOGY. SO WHERE’S IT ALL HEADED?

46 IN THE BEGINNING, GPS devices were celebrated for making the world easier to navigate and eliminating the dangerous habit of driving with a 16-inch atlas. But as technology has evolved—these days parents use GPS shoes to keep track of their kids—automotive navigation systems have been forced to evolve with it, moving beyond the simple task of pointing drivers in the right direction and on to more complex things like computing traffic information, surﬁng the internet and speaking with funny voices (TomTom offers voice options from Darth Vader and Yoda to Homer Simpson, among others). But the new trend in navigation involves another gadget entirely: your cell phone.

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ALYSSA GIACOBBE would do anything Yoda tells her.

SEARCH PARTY American cities with the most GPS-guided trips in 2009 able to do that. Then Google introduced free turn-by-turn technology on its popular Android devices last year, and now free turn-by-turn apps for the iPhone are popping up left and right.

“The market for incar GPS units is nearly saturated,” claims John Biggs, editor of gadget blog CrunchGear. But in-car GPS manufacturers aren’t hitting the brakes just yet. Quite the opposite, actually—they’re introducing smart new innovations that will take GPS to the next level. Companies such as Navigon and Garmin have introduced connected systems that pick up traffic and weather patterns via radio signal or “crowd sourcing,” a process by which drivers contribute reports about traffic and weather conditions that are then relayed to everyone else on the road, providing a smoother ride for all. Connected GPS units also allow users to browse the internet and search for deals like cheap gas. Meanwhile, according to Tim Flight, the editor of GPSReview.net, other innovative third-party applications for the GPS—which will allow drivers to ﬁnd and book hotel rooms, say, or automatically text friends an ETA— are just around the corner.

THE CENTER FOR REGENERATIVE MEDICINE

47 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2010 tech

TomTom offers voice options from Darth Vader and Yoda to Homer Simpson, among others.

1. Los Angeles 2. Dallas 3. Chicago 4. Houston 5. Atlanta

IT’S PROBABLY BEST to get this out of the way: I hate swimming. Also, I’m really bad at it, which might be why I hate it. The ironic thing is that I actually love water. In fact, I grew up surrounded by it. In the summertime, I stayed at my grandparents’ house on the coast of Maine with a beach just paces away from my bedroom window. One of my summer jobs was renting out inflatable floats down on Long Sands. I was a harbor rat, too, buzzing around on sailboats, dinghies and fishing boats in the islands of Maine and far out to sea. No one knows quite why I’m incapable of such a simple and seemingly universal act. It could be hereditary—none of my siblings are very good swimmers—or it could be seeing Jaws at an impressionable age. I’ve always thought it was simply because I’m a sinker. Toss me into a pool, and I sink to the bottom like a coin tossed in a fountain. The only reason I’m still alive today is that—necessity being the mother of invention—I long ago created a desperation stroke, a FOR DECADES AS A NONSWIMMER, HIS FEET WET. BLITT

AFTER SURVIVING

BY MIKE GUY // ILLUSTRATION BY BARRY

Adult Swimsports JULY 2010 | UNITED.COM 48

A 37-YEAR-OLD FINALLY GETS

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JULY 2010 | UNITED.COM 50

“I’m here for the introductory class,” I say to the receptionist on my ﬁrst day. “Great!” she says, with a wide smile. “Where’s your child?” “No, it’s me,” I say sheepishly. “I’m the student.”

LANDLUBBERS crude, thrashing sort of anaerobic doggy paddle, wherein I hold my breath and windmill my arms furiously, creating a splashing tornado of froth while hoping to arrive at something fixed before I run out of oxygen. Not that I wasn’t encouraged to learn. My parents tried their darndest, marching me to years of swimming lessons (always in an uncomfortably cold saltwater pool). I just couldn’t get past the breathing part. It didn’t take long to start associating swimming with humiliation. At age nine, I went off to summer camp, where, on the first day, everyone was required to take a swim test. Campers lined up under pine trees by the main dock and nervously waited their turn to jump into the frigid early June lakewater and swim to another dock—one that looked so far away it might have been in Canada. When my turn came, I clambered over slick roots and sharp granite, dropped into the water and deployed my spastic half-doggy. But only a few feet past where I could touch the murky bottom my hands shot into the air in panic. A counselor reached out with a long pole, which I grabbed as though it were the hand of God. Four summers later, I became the oldest camper in the Minnow class, splashing around on Cadet Beach while the other kids sailed around Lake Winnipesaukee in little Sunfish sailboats like they had gills. Fast-forward to this spring. I’m 37 years old, at a posh Caribbean resort with my fiancée, and we’re about to go snorkeling. Caught up in the joy of being on vacation, and perhaps entranced by the promise of warm water, I jump off a dock into the bathwater sea without putting on flippers. The current pulls me away from the dock, and after trying to fake a casual Australian crawl, I realize I’m going to have to use my desperation stroke. Thirty thrashing seconds later, I’m at the dock, breathing as though I’ve just sprinted up the stairs of the Philadelphia Museum of Art. As I climb wearily up onto the wooden planks, Molly is stunned. “Oh, my God,” she says. “Sweetie, you can’t swim!” “Sure I can,” I say, with an edge of defensiveness. “I just did!” “That wasn’t swimming. That was surviving.”Sowithour wedding just months Can’t swim? You aren’t alone. Around half the rest of the world can’t either, including these notable nonswimmers: sports away, I promise my bride-to-be that she won’t have to marry a nonswimmer (also, she wants a honeymoon in Bali). To get past swimmer’s block before the big day, I enroll in a swim school near Union Square in New York City.

CARMEN ELECTRA former Baywatch lifeguard

“Today we’re going to focus on floating,” the instructor says. Jackpot!“Okay,start out in the ‘airplane position’,” he says. Following his instructions, I spread my arms like a 777, grab a deep, slow breath and, keeping my back rigid, gently float onto my face. His words, “keep your bum in the air, don’t let it sag,” ring in my head. For a moment, I founder and consider thrashing to the surface, but a beat goes by and suddenly I’m floating happy as those babies you see on TV bobbing around gleefully in pools with their mothers. I’m not a sinker after all. It’s a small victory, but a victoryAfternonetheless.class,thedirector of the school takes me aside and gently suggests I might be better off with private instruction instead of sharing the pool with a bunch of kids. I tell her that I understand completely, but I can’t help wondering if someone complained about a middle-aged man crashing the pool party. Colin’s mom, no doubt. For my first private lesson, we’re going to focus on something called “shoulder roll,” which is evidently another important fundamental. For the first time in my life, I’m excited about swimming. I may never be able to do a butterfly or the Michael Phelpsian dolphin kick, but I’m pretty sure I can find my way off Cadet Beach.

“Ooooh,” she says. “I see.” I emerge from the locker room into the muggy pool area to find myself surrounded by kids, mostly very young teenagers. It’s the oldest class the school offers. As I step into the pool, one of them, a tough-looking 10-yearold named Colin, turns to a friend and mumbles something that sounds like, “What’s with the old guy?” “Gather ’round,” says the instructor, a former member of the Canadian Olympic team who is built like the dad in The Incredibles. “We’re going to start with kicking, okay?” I pull on my bathing cap and Speedo brand goggles, grab the edge of the pool and start scissoring. A sloshing sound echoes around the pool room, and I turn and look at Colin, who is kicking with a precocious confidence. I haven’t seen him swim yet, but I can tell he’s better than I am. It feels like Cadet Beach all over again. The problem with learning to swim as an adult is that I have 37 years of bad habits to overcome, and that desperation stroke is as fixed in my muscle memory as my walking stride or my baseball throw. And before I can do anything, I have to overcome that sinking feeling. After half an hour of slapping the water with my feet, we try a couple of other nonthreatening drills, but I feel no closer to swimming normally. Molly picks me up at the pool, and as we head home I tell her something a Navy SEAL once told me a few years ago: “Dude, water is inherently hostile territory.” Tell me about it. It’s the one thing about swimming that makes sense to me, and explains perfectly why I can’t breathe and swim at the same time. It’s a simple sum: breathing water is dangerous. At the next lesson, Colin and his buddies snigger at me again. I shoot him a look. (I may not have learned to swim at camp, but I did figure out how to handle bullies.)

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Executive editor MIKE GUY is still deciding if he’ll honeymoon in Bali or somewhere drier, like central Africa. The current pulls me away from the dock, and after trying to fake a casual Australian crawl, I’m forced to resort to my desperation stroke.

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The Grape Nut

SMOKE SIGNALS A selection of Bonny Doon wines displayed in a cigar box.

John Lennon, with a graying ponytail and spectacles, he talks like a semiotics professor and writes like a Borscht Belt comedian. He’s in New York this afternoon because his book, Been Doon So Long: A Randall Grahm Vinthology, is up for the 2010 James Beard Award for beverage writing.

THE SERVERS sit in their aprons eating a staff dinner of fish fillets when the world’s most unusual and entertaining winemaker gets up to speak. It’s a hot Saturday afternoon in New York City, and Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard has come to the clubby confines of Morton’s Steakhouse to tout the virtues of his signature wine, Le Cigare Volant (The Flying Cigar), a California version of the Southern French Chateauneuf-du-Pape.wineThestaffapplauds.Grahm, 57, is arguably a more engaging dinner guest than they’re used to. Looking a bit like

CALIFORNIA WINEMAKER RANDALL GRAHM HAS BEEN SHAKING UP THE DECIDEDLY SOBER WINE WORLD FOR YEARS NOW. JUST WAIT TILL OENOPHILES TASTE WHAT HE’S UNCORKING NEXT. BY EDWARD LEWINE // PHOTOGRAPHS BY AYA BRACKETT food & drink

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2010

By 2006, Bonny Doon was one of the 30 biggest wineries in the U.S., selling some 450,000 cases and grossing tens of millions of dollars a year. So what did Grahm do? He sold off most of his empire to ﬁnance his most bizarre experiment yet: a vineyard where he’ll grow grape hybrids of his own design.

He favors hilarious names for his wines (Critique of Pure Riesling) and Monty Pythonesque label artwork, and every wine he makes has a story behind it. He’s also a relentlessly witty writer,

emailing his periodic Noose Letters to some 30,000 eager fans. Last year Grahm bought a 280-acre plot in San Juan Bautista County. There, he plans to grow various grape varieties and interbreed them, creating unique mixtures—and ﬂatly rejecting what is common practice for the overwhelming majority of winemakers worldwide, who work with recognizable grape varieties. That, after all, is what tends to sell.

“He’s a mad scientist,” says Jerold O’Brien of Silver Mountain Vineyards. Or, as famed wine importer Kermit Lynch puts it, “He’s like a cross between Karl Marx and Groucho Marx.”

“The theory of this project is not to discover the best Grenache or Mourvedre grapes,” Grahm tells me enthusiastically, “but rather to create a population of genetically distinctive individuals and a wine that is truly complex.” Grahm grew up in Los Angeles, becoming a grape fanatic while studying philosophy at U.C. Santa Cruz in the mid-1970s. After a stint at U.C. Davis Department of Viticulture and Enology, his folks helped him buy a vineyard in Bonny Doon, a funky hamlet in the Santa CruzThemountains.originaldream was to make a great California Pinot Noir, expressive of the local terroir, i.e., the singular taste imparted to grapes by the speciﬁc place they were grown. Pinot noir, the famous grape of Burgundy, produces sublime red wines but is tough to cultivate. Grahm’s plan was to create pinots that taste as if they came from Bonny Doon and nowhere else. He soon discovered, however, that his hot California vineyard was no place for the cool-air-loving Pinot, but ideal for the grapes grown in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, in France’s Southern Rhone region. The ﬁrst vintage of Bonny Doon wines was bottled in 1983; for the next 30 years, while most of Cali churned out cookie-cutter Cabs and Chards, Grahm became one of a small vanguard of American vintners producing wines from Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre.

“The 2005 Cigare Volant wasn’t ﬁltered before bottling,” Grahm tells the crowd, “and unﬁltered wine has more life force. That can be a good thing or a bad thing, and the screw caps we use instead of corks amplify that tendency. Screw caps rock, for lack of a better term.” It’s hard to say what the servers make of this dissertation, but then Grahm hasn’t gotten where he is by talking down to his audience. Under him, Bonny Doon has thrived, turning eccentricity and risk-taking into virtues, becoming successful by making and importing unusual wines from lesser-known grapes like Muscat and Albariño and selling them in surprisingly large quantities.

JULY 2010 | UNITED.COM 54

Although he’s never been a darling of wine critics (not an especially radical bunch), it is agreed across the board that he’s a talented winemaker. And just as important, he’s an ingenious marketer.

TOASTMASTER Bonny Doon vintner Randall Grahm

“I have made some nice wines, but I don’t think I’ve made a deep contribution yet.” food & drink

Driven by his eclectic energy, Grahm gradually abandoned the “simple life.”

“It happened one step at a time,” Grahm says. “One day I discovered I was in charge of an organization that was so convoluted and Borgesian in its complexity that it was beyond out-ofcontrol.”Still,had he produced any truly distinctive wine? That was the question he began to ask himself in earnest as he turned 50, saw the birth of his ﬁrst child and suffered through a frightening, nearfatal bone infection. The answer was no. “I have made some nice wines,” he allows, “and FRUIT OF THE VINE The tasting room; 2008 Le Cigare Volante aging in special oxygenexclusionary bottles entertained a lot of people, but I don’t think I have made a deep contribution yet.” So he sold off two highvolume brands and spun off his Riesling brand into its own business. Then he took a gamble on his plan to create a vineyard of hybrids straight out of The Island of Dr. Moreau He’s not the only one making hybrid grapes. South African Pinotage, for example, is a mix of Pinot Noir and Cinsault. But no one is setting out to create grapes of mixed parentage unique to a given vineyard. “There will be nothing like it,” Grahm says. Some say that’s the problem. Terroir is based on comparing known quantities: apples to apples.

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The Bonny Doon brand came to comprise a line of wines for cognoscenti (Le Cigare Volant), an array of mass-market wines (Big House Red, Cardinal Zin), a company devoted to Paciﬁc Northwest Rieslings, a wine importing business, a mail-order wine club that produces 12 new and different wines a year, and a hip Santa Cruz café.

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EDWARD LEWINE, a regular contributor to The New York Times Magazine, recently passed part one of the Master Sommelier’s Exam. The easy part.

Pinot noir planted in one part of Burgundy may taste different than that from another part. But while wine made from a vineyard of Randall Grahm’s hybrids will have a distinctive taste, it will be less an expression of land than of Grahm’s experimentation. No matter what, it won’t be boring. After a half-hour spent conversing with the waiters at Morton’s, Grahm stands up to leave. He has a dinner date with Eric Asimov, the wine writer for The New York Times, and Adam Gopnik of the New Yorker. The following day is the James Beard Awards dinner, where Grahm’s book will win. “I wish I could tell you why I bought this land,” says Grahm, whose new wines won’t be ready for another ﬁve years. “Based on my intuition I think this will be great. Until I do it, I won’t know.”

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A few people gasped. Aguilar looked down. Then came the claps and whistles. Though it was at least partially made out of wood (Sprigwood, to be exact, a patented mix of recycled plastic and sawdust reclaimed from furniture companies) the Frisbee hadn’t broken. This despite the THE 29-YEAR-OLD CEO OF WHAM-O, GETTING THE

THE PACKAGE ARRIVED. Kyle Aguilar had been tracking it for the last 24 hours, watching its progress as it snaked its way to him at the Los Angeles offices of Wham-O. It was November 2009, and Aguilar was the new CEO of the 62-year-old company that had given the world toys such as the Frisbee, the Slip ’N Slide and the Hula Hoop. Over the past 10 years, though, Wham-O hadn’t done much in terms of innovating. Rather like an old plaything itself, the company had lost its shine, ceding ground to newer, hungrier rivals. Some said Wham-O was history; Aguilar didn’t think so. He just needed to make the classic toys that had long captivated Baby Boomers relevant and attractive to their kids and grandkids. And what was inside the package was supposed to help him doTheit. solidly built 29-year-old made a beeline to the copy room, where the brown box waited on the ﬂoor, just below a framed image of the original Wham-O Hacky Sack packaging from 1983. “Official Footbag!” the thick blue lettersAguilarcried.crouched down, ripped the box open and reached inside the sea of Styrofoam peanuts. He pulled out three toys—one orange, one baby blue and one yellow. They looked like Frisbees.

STORIED COMPANY BACK ON TRACK IS NO GAME. BY ALLISON WEISS ENTREKIN // ILLUSTRATIONS BY ROSS MACDONALD PowerindustryPlay 57 JULY 2010 | UNITED.COM

FOR

Aguilar stood and turned around, raising an eyebrow at a knot of employees who had gathered in silence. This moment wasn’t just about Aguilar; it was about the company’s survival. Aguilar raised the yellow Frisbee into the air. “This,” he told his team, “is going to be the next big thing.” Then he slammed it to the ground.

Manufacturing Marvel, which now has eight factories and produces more than two billion toys a year (everything from Bugs Bunny bottle caps to Shrek ﬁgurines), thanks to the efforts of 6,000 employees—Aguilar’s dad amongAguilar’sthem.relationship with Wham-O began last year when he called the company to inquire about manufacturing Frisbees for them in the United States. In the discussions that ensued, he learned that its Chinese-based owners were open to selling the entire business. Although Wham-O did $80 million in sales in 2005, its numbers had slipped with the economy, and it had only released one hit product in the last 10 years—the SnowBall Blaster, which packs and launches snowballs as far as 80 feet.

Wham-O’s owners at the time were the company’s fourth since 1982, a sign of serious upheaval for a business that spent its first 34 years under the leadership of the same two Californians who founded it. To make matters worse, the toy industry had gone through massive changes since the 1950s, when Wham-O first shook up the toy box. In fact, childhood itself had changed, with kids spending more and more playtime indoors, absorbed by TV, computers and videogames. And recently, the market has grown more competitive as grown-up gizmos begin finding their way into youngsters’ backpacks.

58 unanimous skepticism of Aguilar’s factory managers, who’d all declared it couldn’t be done. Sure the thing would ﬂy, they predicted, but it couldn’t possibly withstand the no-holds-barred play kids might subject it to. They were wrong. Aguilar had transformed the Frisbee—one of the great triumphs of the Age of Plastic—into something made entirely of recycled materials. Better yet, he’d done it inexpensively enough to match the price of the original. “For so long, I had been wondering, ‘How do you get innovative with a Frisbee?’” Aguilar says later, in his office in Woodland Hills. “I mean, a Frisbee? It’s a ﬂying disc; it is what it is. But then we had the answer. Make it environmentally friendly.”

According to Wham-O chief operating officer Mike Rosales, though, not all of the company’s toys are destined for a comeback; the signature 1948 Slingshot, for example, would send company lawyers running for the hills given today’s more litigious climate. “There are some products that, personally, Kyle and I would love to bring back,” he says, “but I don’t think we’d be able to just from a safety standpoint.”

“Wham-O is built around this type of toy culture that brings people together,” Aguilar says. “That’s a great foundation to start building on with a company.” In July 2009, he joined with a group of investors to purchase Wham-O and set about reinvigorating the brand. A year before taking over Wham-O, Aguilar had begun doing manufacturing work for Sprig Toys Inc., a small Colorado-based company that had developed an inexpensive, eco-friendly material called Sprigwood. Aguilar saw the stuff as a “gold mine,” and he told the owners as much. They said they hoped a big toy company might one day agree and purchase the rights to their material. They had ﬁgured on a timeline of 10 to 15 years. A little more than 12 months later, Wham-O’s newly minted CEO gave them a call. The two companies merged, and the new Sprigwood Frisbee will hit stores in time for Christmas.

The boss didn’t stop to give his employees a little speech. He needed to talk with his factory about doing the same thing for the Hula Hoop. Aguilar grew up in Southern California, where his dad worked in promotional-toy manufacturing. When he was four, he would sometimes accompany his father to the office, where he would sit behind the desk and snap his ﬁngers at employees who walked in. “Hurry up!” the preschooler would tell them, to the embarrassment of his father. The kid didn’t mean any harm; he just liked being in charge. By the time Aguilar was in his teens, he’d decided to follow his dad into the toy business, and at 23, he began operating a small facility in Mexico that manufactured action ﬁgures for various companies. Within a year, he was named CEO and began aggressively acquiring additional toy factories around the globe. He still runs them all under the banner

JULY 2010 | UNITED.COM

Over the past 10 years, the Wham-O company had lost its shine, ceding ground to hungrier rivals.

Aguilar is also aggressively marketing the new Hula Hoop FX, which is more than three times heavier than the traditional Hula Hoop, making it a hit at aerobics classes around the country.

“We live in a situation where toy dollars are going to things like iPods and cell phones,” notes Chris Byrne, content director at timetoplaymag.com. “And of courseDespitecomputers.”thesechallenges, Aguilar was impressed with the sheer number of classic Wham-O toys that had survived on the market for decades. Silly String. Super Balls. Hula Hoops. Though conceptually simple, these iconic toys could often provide years of fun, not to mention getting kids off the couch and out of doors, where they could socialize and burn off energy.

industry JULY CROSSWORD ANSWERS 59 Aguilar’s fine with that, since he knows the company will only thrive if it comes up with innovative new toys to add to its portfolio. To that end, his team is working overtime developing a slew of ideas (Aguilar won’t disclose any for fear they might be copied), and Wham-O is currently accepting submissions from inventors who think they have something that fits the brand. Only toys that function in the real world—as opposed to the digital realm—need apply; Wham-O isn’t interested in the sort of playthings that only give the thumbs a workout. “All of our products are activity-based—that’s how Wham-O was founded and what we continue to do,” Rosales says. With Wham-O now producing 200 products, Aguilar says he won’t be satisfied until the company is once again considered the ultimate source for active, generation-spanning toys.

ALLISON WEISS ENTREKIN is an Atlantabased writer and editor whose Hula Hoop record is a pathetic seven seconds.

“Unfortunately, a lot of the younger generation is not as familiar with Wham-O, because the company hasn’t been as innovative in last ten years,” Aguilar says. “I’m taking responsibility for making it happen again.” In the age of the iPod Touch and the Nintendo DS, it won’t be easy. But it certainly sounds like fun.

CULTUREMINISTRYOFCULTUREANDTOURISM

Temple of Parthenon (Athens, Attica)

Medieval City of Mystras (Peloponnese) Ancient Sanctuary of Delphi (Central Greece)

reece is scattered with UNESCO designated “World Heritage Sites”. There are fascinating antiquities from pre-historic, paleolithic, early historic, Roman, and Byzantine times. The Acropolis in Athens, the “Sacred Rock” with its monuments Parthenon, Propylaea, Erechtheion and the temple of Niki, is an architectural jewel which still crowns Greece as the “cradle of Western civilization”. Next to Acropolis you admire the Roman Odeon of Herodes Atticus (Herodeion) where you can watch world-famous dance performances, operas and concerts during summer months.

- GREEK NATIONAL TOURISM ORGANIZATION www.visitgreece.gr

In the northern town of Thessaloniki, with many early Christian and Byzantine churches and ruins, also home to a fascinating Archaeological Museum, with many exhibits including treasures founded at the nearby ancient Greek town of Vergina (Aigai), the burial site of the kings of ancient Macedonia, including the tomb of Philip II, father of Alexander the Great. In the south, at the region of Peloponnese, you can visit the ancient stadium of Olympia, where the ﬁrst Olympic Games took place in 776 B.C., the Temple of Epicurean Apollo in Vassai, the ancient Mycenae and Tiryns and the Medieval City of Mystras. In the Aegean sea, at the majestic islands, you can visit the terrace of the Lions in Delos or Medieval city Rhodes on Rhodes, monastery of Nea Moni in Chios, the ancients palaces of Knossos and Phaestos in Crete.

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Medieval City of Rhodes (Rhodes Island) Odeon of Herodes Atticus (Athens, Attica)

Terrace of the Lions (Delos Island)

Ancient Mycenae (Peloponnese)

In Athens, at the National Gallery with the 20th century Greek art you experience fascinating cultural treasures One or two-day trips from Athens are at the beautiful temple of ancient “God of Sea” Poseidon, at cape Sounion or at the ancient Pan-Hellenic sanctuary of Delphi, which the ancient Greeks believed to be the “omphalus of the world”, or experience revived plays of ancient Greek drama theatre throughout summer in the well preserved ancient theatre of Epidaurus.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2010 artifact The medieval city of Amsterdam is a vanguard of European culture. It’s also where you’ll ﬁnd De Ruijter chocolate. 80 62 LONG WINDINGANDROADS Eleven great road trips on ﬁve continents 70 THE HEMI Q&A Billionaire Mark Cuban goes maverick. By David Carr 74 GRILL CRAZY Travel around the barbecue world in 80 bites. By Chris Erickson 80 THREE PERFECT DAYS: AMSTERDAM Exploring the city of canals and cats By Adam K. Raymond FEATURES 61 P. PHOTOGRAPH BY CLAIRE BENOIST

MISTY MOUNTAIN STOP Highway 1 passes through the bluffs of Big Sur. San Simeon

PACIFIC HIGHWAYCOAST 90 MILES //

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The smooth strip of blacktop snaking along the Paciﬁc Ocean may be the single most aweinspiring scenic road in the country, if not the world. Start your journey with a cappuccino on the sandy shores of Monterey, and then head south. Along the way, stop at Nepenthe Restaurant for its incomparable Ambrosiaburger, hit the Esalen Institute for a dip in the hot springs and a massage, browse the eclectic collection at the Henry Miller Library, go for a swim at Pfeiffer Beach (the magnesium content makes its sand purple), and ﬁnish the day by communing with walruses at the Hearst Castle.

Big Sur the-SeaCarmel-by-Monterey

ROADSWINDINGANDLONG IN THE SUMMERTIME, THERE’S NOTHING QUITE LIKE THE FEELING OF THE WIND IN YOUR HAIR AND THE OPEN ROAD UNFOLDING BEFORE YOU. HERE, OUR STREET-SMART GUIDE TO THE WORLD’S MOST REWARDING DRIVES. MAPS BY PETER OUMANSKI

THE SPOKANE LOOP

100 MILES OF DIRT, 50 OF ASPHALT // You’ll want four-wheel drive to traverse the 100 miles of dirt road that wind out of Lake City, Colorado. Start at dawn in this sleepy town, then go west, young man, on Country Road 20, from Rio Grande National Park. There’s little out here but you and the great outdoors, so plan to stop often to soak in the scenery. In Ouray, wash off the dust in the sulfur hot springs, then head through the Uncompahgre National Forest to Telluride, where you’ll check into the Eurostyle Alpino Vino chalet for some victuals and shut-eye.

The airplaneis the ultimate tool for taking you from Point A to Point B—as close to a sci-ﬁ-style teleporter as mankind gets—but sometimes the journey continues and other vistas

JULYHEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM2010

ROCKY ROAD The Fairmont Banff Springs Calgary Spokane HOWDY PARDNER Experience the real wild west in Lake City.

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beckon: Think bizarre magnesium-shaded purple sand at California’s Pfeiffer Beach or Costa Rica’s orchid-ﬁlled Paraíso garden. Of course, as rush-hour commuters know all too well, not all roads are created equal. Here, we steer you toward the world’s most breathtaking interstates, eye-popping thoroughfares and awe-inspiring byways, all guaranteed to take you somewhere spectacular. Drive safely, but travel without a care.

845 MILES // Get into a meditative groove on this mountainous cruise from Spokane through Idaho and Montana to British Columbia, Canada. Stop in Wallace, Idaho, for a ride along the Hiawatha Mountain Bike Trail (rentals available at the trailhead), then stay the night at the elegant Whitefish Mountain Resort, in Whitefish, Montana. Afterward, check out the Buffalo Jump, a precarious cliff (never mind why they call it that), and finally get wet in some hot springs in Banff, Alberta, where you can lounge in pools that look out on the Canadian Rockies.

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CANADAUSA Telluride Lake CityOuraySawpit

THE LAKE SUPERIOR CIRCUMNAVIGATION

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THE MARITIMES 225 MILES // Fishermen have made the shores of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton home since the Basques ﬁrst arrived here in the 15th century in search of cod. The countryside is just as rugged now as it was then, but much more inviting. Travel a straight shot from Halifax to the bustling crossroads of Truro and sample the day’s catch from the Salmon River. Then cross onto Cape Breton Island, where you’ll pass through old Acadian villages before stopping for the night at the Keltic Lodge in Ingonish Beach. Here, you can sample a strong ale as a local combo unwinds the jig-and-reel.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMJULY2010

1,210 MILES // The drive along the entire coast of this massive, picturesque and historically rich Great Lake takes you through two time zones and as many border crossings. Starting in Minnesota and driving counterclockwise, take a glass-bottom tour of early 19th century vessels wrecked along the shores of Munising, Michigan, catch a view of the Grand Portage National Monument, ogle the ancient Agawa pictographs and, before you reach the Lighthouse B&B in Two Harbors, descend the half-mile Alpine Slide.

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CAPE CRUSADE The seaside hills of Cabot Trail, Cape Breton Island

VASTLY SUPERIOR The Grand Portage National Monument, left, and the marina in Thunder Bay

SANGRE DE CRISTO MOUNTAINS TRAVERSE 80 MILES //

The Sangre de reddishnamedCristos—forthehue the snowcapped peaks take on around sunset— are among the longest mountain chains on earth. Luckily, you only have to drive around 80 winding miles to really experience them. Start in Santa Fe at the Tune-Up Café, with a breakfast burrito, and then head northeast toward Chimayo, a tony Spanishera town where you can pick up handwoven vests, handbags and rugs. The road sometimes narrows to one lane as it winds between the dozens of 13,000-foot peaks, but by the time you get to Taos, you’ll want to turn back for more.

RIBBONS OF HIGHWAY

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SantaChimayoFe Rio LucioTaos

Winding through the Sangre de Cristos; and opposite, Bilbao by night

Barcelona Pamplona

San BilbaoSebastian

BARCELONA

Start in Mediterraneanandforwardfashion-Barcelonatracethe coast south to Tarragona before heading inland. The breadbasket of Spain awaits! Once over the breathtaking foothills of the Pyrénées, in the wine state of La Rioja, stop in tiny Paganos, where you’ll eat a 30 euro ﬁvecourse meal at Héctor Oribe restaurant before passing through Pamplona and visiting the famed corrida Bilbao and its shimmery sea creature of a museum follow. Then snake through the harbor towns toward the French border until you arrive at glitzy San Sebastian. Have a delectably ﬁshy pintxo. You’ve certainly earned it. TO BASQUE COUNTRY 450 MILES

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THE UPPER TOHOKU REGION, JAPAN 445 MILES // No need to linger in the ﬂashy bazaars of Tokyo when the sparkling beaches and crisp mountain air of the upper Tohoku Region—the wild northern quarter of Japan’s main island—are calling for you. Wind along the coastal route’s seaside cliffs until you hit Miyako and munch on the freshest sushi in the world (hands down). Then turn inland and climb into the stunning Shirakami Mountains, where you’ll stop at Lake Towada for a dip before ﬁnishing at Aomori.

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CorrientesFe CiudadPosadasDelEste

BUENOS AIRES TO IGUAZU FALLS // 1,045 MILES // Start in the Parisian-style Argentine capital before making your way north into the jungle-lined roads toward Brazil. Stop in San Ignacio, and gaze at the ancient ruins of a Jesuit monastery. Pass through Puerto Iguazu, with its rain forest theme park. Come across Parque Das Aves, a zoo known for its giant walk-in cages holding toucans of every stripe, along with its caimas and slithering snakes, and soon you’ll come upon the roaring, mistenshrined colossus—actually 275 different waterfalls—that make up the mysterious Iguazu Falls.

Rosario Santa

BLUE HIGHWAYS The Great Ocean Road passes Australia’s Twelve Apostles limestone formations.

TokyoUtsunomiyaFukushimaSendaiMoriokaAomori

TRIP TO SHORE The Rikuchu seashore in Iwate

Kunichiwah!

COSTA RICA BY FOUR-WHEEL DRIVE

210VictorianMILES

Limon Paraiso Cartago

The OceanSoutherncanbe a bitter, windswept place. you’reLuckily,goingto be on dry land, winding along the craggy, dramatic coastline along the southern edge of Australia. Start in the // Some of the roads from San Jose, Costa Rica, to the Caribbean coastal town of Limón are bumpy, but the scenery is well worth the jostling. For instance, you’ll see the sublime beauty of Basílica de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles in Cartago; the Lankester Botanical Garden in Paraíso, which houses 600 varieties of native orchids, various microhabitats and hundreds of birds; and Laguna Madre de Dios, one of Costa Rica’s only nesting sites for the rare Agami heron. There are also ziplines, jungles, jaguars, ocelots and quetzales galore, and, once you reach Limón, a leisurely swim on a white-sand Caribbean beach. capital of Melbourne and roll straight to Geelong, where you can dip your feet into the waters at Eastern Beach. From here head west toward Portland, stopping along the way at whale lookouts, rain forests and the dozen gargantuan limestone formations known as the Twelve Apostles.

San JoseSantoDomingo

LEVITT/PHOTOLIBRARY,KEITHBY(2),WALLDAVIDBYPHOTOGRAPHSTOP:FROMCLOCKWISE PHOTO/PHOTOLIBRARYJTBBYWARDEN/PHOTOLIBRARY,JOHNBYALBERTINI/PHOTOLIBRARY,SIMONBY IT’S A JUNGLE Bumping through the jungles of Costa Rica THE GREAT OCEAN ROAD // 225 MILES Portland TorquayMelbourne

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71 The outspoken billionaire owner of HDNet, Magnolia Pictures and the Dallas Mavericks is something of a maverick himself—as observers of his sideline rants (and his rumba) are well aware. THE HEMI Q&A: MARK CUBAN BY DAVID CARR ILLUSTRATION BY JEFFREY DECOSTER 2010JULY

1 JULY 2010 | UNITED.COM 72

MARK CUBAN MAY PREFER T-SHIRTS AND JEANS to flannel suits, and he may run a host of enterprises out of his home office in suburban Dallas—the home is nearly 24,000 square feet, so there’s plenty of room to stretch out—but there’s nothing casual about his approach to work. He chews through hundreds of emails a day, keeps a close watch on the Dallas Mavericks, the NBA team he owns, and regularly crisscrosses the country in search of new business opportunities. But even if he sometimes seems to have the attention span of a gnat, he’s certainly got a bigger wingspan—a net worth of $2.4 billion, according to Forbes Born in Pittsburgh to a working-class Jewish family, Cuban, 51, got his start in business selling garbage bags door to door, an enterprise that met with success, as have many other business endeavors that followed, from his first software company, MicroSolutions, which he sold for $6 million in 1990, to Broadcast.com, an online broadcasting platform geared toward sports, which he launched in 1995 and four years later, in a historic bit of market timing, sold to Yahoo! for $5.9 billion. Sometimes the newly rich feel uncomfortable with wealth, but Cuban got the hang of it pretty quickly, grabbing a slot in the Guinness World Records book by buying his Gulfstream V for $40 million...online. Like a lot of rich guys, he coveted a pro sports franchise of his own, so he bought a majority stake in the Dallas Mavericks from Ross Perot Jr. in 2000 for $285 million. He quickly became the most visible and vocal owner in the NBA, in part through his outlet, blogmaverick. com, on which he opines, settles scores and offers business insights. Rarely at a loss for words, Cuban spoke to Hemispheres via email, his preferred format when dealing with the press. (He types fast and at length, so some of his responses have been edited forSomespace.)observers marvel at his successes, while others find him impossibly smug. Cuban could care less. “When I die,” he says, “I want to come back as me.”

HEMISPHERES: The team’s former owner, Ross Perot Jr., who remains a minority partner, sued you in May, claiming the Mavericks are being mismanaged and may be insolvent.

HEMISPHERES: When all is said and done, would you rather be known as successful entrepreneur or a successful pro sports owner?

HEMISPHERES: Being on your own can be a challenge, too. CUBAN: No question that getting carriage can be difficult for an independent programmer. We don’t have a big media company behind us. We can’t require a TV provider to carry us, like the big guys can. Despite that, we have more than 18 million subscriptions in the United States and Canada.

HEMISPHERES: And what about your star power forward Dirk Nowitzki, who just became a free agent. Will he be a Mav next year? CUBAN: That’s the plan.

CUBAN: Actually, everyone is gaining. The more people have access the more people want. Call it the Starbucks effect. You would think that with all the Starbucks around, they couldn’t all survive and all of their competitors would go out of business. The opposite happened. People bought more

CUBAN: Everything. The skill set is not very different. But most other owners seemed to look at running a basketball team as a unique endeavor. It’s not. In basketball you are competing with every other form of entertainment. So I try to make sure we are always improving our product and making it more affordable.

HEMISPHERES: The Mavs have won at least 50 games in each year of your ownership. What lessons did you bring from the executive suite that helped you lead a successful pro sports franchise?

CUBAN: We’re ﬁne. I have plenty of liquidity and there are no issues. He is being who he is.

CUBAN: As an entrepreneur who had an impact on several of the industries he got involved with, whether it’s being part of the first company to propel audio and video on the internet and make it a mainstay, changing the distribution economics of film or starting the first all high-definition television network.

HEMISPHERES: You’re describing HDNet. Now that high-def is everywhere, how do you stand out?

CUBAN: High-deﬁnition was our differentiator early on. Now it’s about content. HDNet and HDNet Movies are two cutting-edge networks that I program exactly the way I like, with everything from Dan Rather Reports to mixed martial arts. They are the deﬁnition of independent networks.

HEMISPHERES: With people dividing their time between TV, web, mobile and so on, which platform do you think stands to lose the most?

CUBAN: The No. 1 complaint I hear from fans is about officiating, and it was my No. 1 complaint as a fan before I bought the team. So it was natural for me to be inquisitive. All I can tell you is that based on all the data available, the problem does not even out over time.

DAVID CARR writes about media and culture for The New York Times. He thinks Cuban was robbed on Dancing with the Stars. 73

CUBAN: I’ve lived my entire life not wanting to look back at age 100 wondering why I didn’t do something different and have more fun. Like my dad has told me many times, “Today is the youngest you will ever be. Live like it.” For the record, my dad is 84 years old and plays and parties harder than anyone I know.

HEMISPHERES: You seem to prefer DWTS judges to basketball referees. The NBA has ﬁned you more than $1.6 million for your critiques, chief among them that bad calls favor certain players.

CUBAN: It started off far too easy for me. The first movie I greenlit was Enron: The Smartest Guys in the Room. I said yes to [director] Alex Gibney’s email proposal in about 12 minutes. That went on to be nominated for an Academy Award. Then we did Good Night, and Good Luck, with George Clooney, the next year, which was nominated for a Best Picture Oscar. Fortunately, I quickly wised up enough to realize that I didn’t have the touch in production to make and sell movies at a profit, but with Magnolia Pictures and Magnolia Home Video and Landmark Theaters working together, we could turn the distribution model for independent film upside down and make money. We decided to release films to DVD, HDNet Movies and theaters at the same time. That model worked okay, but what really worked well was releasing our movies to video-on-demand three to four weeks before the theatrical release, which allows us to generate revenue, build word of mouth, and minimize our marketing costs.

HEMISPHERES: Meanwhile, is it true that you were once a disco dance instructor? CUBAN: True. My senior year in college, I earned $25 an hour to go to sorority houses and teach them how to dance. Best job I ever had :)

HEMISPHERES: Even with the ﬁnes, you tend to speak your mind. In fact, you blog almost every day. What’s the attraction?

CUBAN: It’s interesting to me. Plus, putting myself out there gives me feedback on the ideas I have and makes me smarter in my businesses. The response to my latest blog post on Wall Street has been off the charts.

HEMISPHERES: You seem to enjoy yourself.

“I’ve lived my entire life not wanting to look back and wonder why I didn’t have more fun.”

THE CUBAN REVOLUTION // Mark Cuban; right, with HDNet’s Dan Rather, and cutting a rug on Dancing with the Stars. coffee than ever before. More access to video, particularly with the simplicity of multitasking using small screens, has increased consumption.

HEMISPHERES: In the movie space, you’ve produced ﬁlms with Magnolia Pictures, purchased Landmark Theaters and pushed hard for the release of ﬁlms on-demand at the same time they show up in multiplexes. After some amazing early success, has the going gotten tougher?

CUBAN: I loved every minute of it and would do it again in a heartbeat. I got a fair shake on Dancing with the Stars

HEMISPHERES: What is the one question you wish you’d get asked? CUBAN: Are you really the same person they show on SportsCenter yelling and screaming all the time? The answer is yes. For 48 minutes, during a game, that’s me. That’s my outlet. The other 23 hours and 12 minutes of that day, I’m pretty laid-back. But that doesn’t make for good TV.

HEMIQ&A

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HEMISPHERES: And you relived the magic by competing on Dancing with the Stars in 2007, beating Floyd Mayweather Jr. but getting eliminated in round ﬁve.

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75 GRI L C AZY PHOTOGRAPHS BY SASHA NIALLABY CHRIS ERICKSON EVERY CULTURE ON EARTH SEEMS TO HAVE ITS OWN DISTINCTIVE TAKE ON THE ULTIMATE SUMMER PASTIME—AND IN AMERICA’S MOST DIVERSE NEIGHBORHOOD, NEARLY ALL OF THEM COME TOGETHER. ONE REPORTER GOES AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 BITES. JULY 2010 R L

“Thegood.soul of the people,” he proclaims. Good answer, but in pursuit of more tangible tips, I ask his friend Kobich (“only one name”), a shaggyhaired guitarist, what he marinated the meat in. Salt, onion and cumin, he says, plus—secret weapon alert—“a little seltzer,” for added tenderness. Next stop, cow-crazy Argentina. I arrive there via a nearby grill loaded with heavy-duty slabs of beef, over which Claudia Mendoza sweats in the radiant heat as gaucho music plays on a nearby boombox.

“On the street you see this kind of thing everywhere, people selling ten skewers at a time,” he says, noting that “small bites” are a hallmark of Chinese cooking. “You enjoy the ﬂavors that get into every piece of meat.” Enjoy them I do, along with a taste of a purple sweet potato, roasted in aluminum foil. Moving on, my eye alights on a distinctive grill—a boxlike stainless steel trough designed for skewers. Two men hover nearby, cooking chicken and beef kebabs alongside skewers of cherry tomatoes and mushrooms. Approached by an inquisitive visitor, they immediately offer a tutorial.

“First you eat, and then we talk,” he says. “And before you eat, you drink.” I spy a bottle of Johnnie Walker at the far end of the table, and I begin a quick calculation, weighing my reluctance to offend my new friend with my reluctance to pass out on someone’s picnic blanket. As it happens, though, the beverages are quickly forgotten, and I set to swooning over the chicken kebabs, cubed on the bone, which are fabulously moist and ﬂavorful. I eat them with non toki, a crackerlike Uzbek ﬂatbread that is eagerly proffered (“Try, try, try”) and some tangy marinated carrot salad. Another Uzbek specialty?“Korean,” says Bulochkin, though he and the others brought a taste for it from their homeland, where a fair number of Koreans live. I ask him what makes Uzbek kebabs so

COAL COMFORT // Claudia Mendoza dresses her ribs in kosher salt; right, Vernon Calloway mans the grill. |

76 I’m barely ﬁve minutes into an odyssey of discovery through the grills of Queens, New York, and there they are, the words I’ve been hoping to hear.

“HELP YOURSELF,” THE STRANGER SAYS. BINGO.

For those unfamiliar with the territory, Queens, the largest borough in New York City, is statistically the most diverse place in the United States and very likely the planet. It’s less a melting pot than a kaleidoscopic jumble of cultures colliding and coexisiting—a place where well over 100 languages are spoken, half the population is foreign-born, and it’s not uncommon to see a Polish butcher shop, a Chinese herb vendor, a Mexican grocery, an Irish bar and a Greek gyro joint on the same block. Love may be the universal language, but grilling runs a close second. Cooking meat over an open flame is an activity that has bridged cultural divides since the first caveman dragged a wildebeest home to his Weber. So as outdoor cooking season arrived and my thoughts turned to what to grill and how to grill it, I had a thought: Why not pay a visit to one of Queens’ premier picnicking spots—a strip by a small lake at the southern end of Flushing Meadows Corona Park (home to the 1964 World’s Fair)—and see what’s cooking? This is how I came to be crouching on the grass with a pair of chopsticks in hand, eating the aforementioned beef (remarkably tender, with a subtle heat) and learning a bit about Chinese barbecue. “It’s street food,” says Lei Liu, who is tending an adjacent grill stocked with skewers of lamb coated in cumin, red pepper and salt, a style common to China’s southern provinces. Hailing from the city of Chengdu, in Sichuan Province, Liu, 28, emigrated five years ago to study.

JULY 2010

In this case they’re coming from Xiaodong Zhang, who’s gesturing toward a plastic bag full of chopsticks as he and some friends cluster around a cast-iron grill plate sizzling with thin strips of marinated beef, chunks of sea bass and a heap of mushrooms, onions and cilantro. A small plate is offered, and I take a bite.

“This is traditional Uzbek shish kebab,” says Anton Bulochkin. “This is No. 1.” As I start in with questions, he leads me over to a picnic table where some dozen friends and family members are gathered.

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“In Argentina, our favorite food is barbecue,” says Mendoza, a warm and youthful expat who works in the accounting department at Columbia University. She’s out to celebrate her husband Marco’s birthday with a dozen or so friends from disparate points on the globe, many of them fellow marathon runners. Her steaks have been custom-cut in Argentinean

“That night we had a big party for their ﬁftieth anniversary, with more than seventy people,” he goes on. “So that’s what we try to do here, have a party.”

The beef skirts—four or ﬁve big slabs—aren’t yet ready, so he brings me a sandwich from a huge pile on an adjacent picnic table, a link of coarse chorizo, split down the middle and loaded with chimichurri sauce, on crusty bread. “It looks great,” I tell him, “but I’m a bit full, to tell the truth, so maybe just a little…” He gives me a hard look, albeit not without a twinkle in his eye. “You gotta eat it,” he says. “If you don’t, you got problems.”Remembering the fate of his grandfather’s cow, I comply. And with no regrets. I even manage to devour a plate of sweet natilla, a ﬂanlike custard made by some Colombians in the group, who’ve also contributed the plantains that lie on the grill. (That’s as far as Brun is willing to go in giving

“LOVE MAY BE THE UNIVERSAL LANGUAGE, BUT GRILLING RUNS A CLOSE SECOND.”

78 tira de asado style—a few inches wide and a few inches thick, and attached to a ladder of cross-cut sections of rib bone. She’s prepared them in the minimalist native fashion, with just an application of coarse kosher salt. “You want to try?” Indeed I do. Someone hands me a plate, while another friend pours me some red wine. Taking a hunk of beef along with a sausage link, I add a key adornment: Mendoza’s homemade chimichurri sauce, a ubiquitous Argentinean condiment. The results are amazing, the tangy sauce a terriﬁc counterpoint to the beef’s dark salty char and its tender, fatty interior. Thanking them and sauntering along the lake, I wonder if anyone will manage to challenge the Argentineans when it comes to primacy in the pit. I don’t have to wait long for an answer. Standing by a mound of mammoth skirt steaks, which are soon to feed a hungry soccer team, Mariano Brun presents a contender: the Uruguayans. “We are the originals,” he declares. A gregarious, deliberate sort who left Uruguay to seek his fortune 21 years ago, Brun has prospered in the equities market and now supports new immigrants through the Maria Luisa de Moreno International Foundation, which sponsors the soccer team. “I’ll never forget, when I was eight or nine years old, one morning my grandfather called me over and said, ‘Bring me that cow.’” Brun watched as his grandfather dispatched the animal with a knife and used a horse to hoist it up with a rope and tie it to a tree. Then he lit a large ﬁre, and set to cutting the cow up into large sections.

GRILL, INTERRUPTED // Clockwise from top left, the Khans’ Pakistani tandoori; Trinidadian skewers; Uzbek kebabs; Richard Koury’s dog Spot begs for a taste.

Tandoori!AsPakistan native Abid Khan mans the grill, his wife Iqra gives me the lowdown on her marinade, a bath of yogurt, vinegar, garlic, ginger, green and red chilis and masala spice. Pakistani tandoori is a bit more ﬁery than its Indian counterpart, she says, and sure enough, the wonderfully moist chicken has an assertive, creeping heat. She has a favorite method for cutting the burn, she adds, offering me a plate of…ketchup?Notacondiment Pakistan is known for, exactly. But as I spread some on the chicken, I’m reminded of something I learned from Brun about balancing tradition and assimilation. I’d asked why he used coals instead of cooking over wood logs, Uruguay-style. “That,” he said, “we do Americanstyle.”

Brooklyn-based writer CHRIS ERICKSON is seriously considering going on the Master Cleanse diet.

“On a day like this, Filipinos love to go to the beach or to the park and do some grilling,” says Cordero, a physical therapist and one of about 15 young Filipino friends—many of them occupational or physical therapists— who’ve gathered in the park. I eye the pork belly, which gleams alluringly. Cordero’s friend Edwin Gagaring marinated it in a mixture of pineapple juice, soy sauce and pepper, and the resulting salty-and-sweet glaze is terriﬁc on the fatty pork. It’s a side dish that puts the Philippines on my culinary map, though: Cordero’s “vinegar shrimp.” Shrimp sliced lengthwise and soaked in sugarcane vinegar with red onion and chunks of fresh ginger, it’s a tart treat reminiscent of ceviche that will be on the menu at my next barbecue. After dropping in on an exuberant group of Trinidadians (jerk chicken) and Ecuadorians—whosome speak little English but are quick to give me enough grilled pork and morcilla (blood sausage) to feed me for another day—the sun is dropping beneath the horizon and I’m about ready to follow suit. But spotting an orange glow atop a hibachi, I summon the energy for one more stop.

79 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2010 them grill privileges, though: “They know coffee. We know meat.”) I’ve consumed at least a pound of red meat at this point, so when I detect the aroma of seafood, I’m curious to know who’s laid out their grill with shrimp, mussels, squid and a whole fish, as well as hot dogs and slabs of marinated porkWelcomebelly. to the Philippines. “This is typical Filipino grilled food,” Michael Cordero tells me, as he sets about the delicate operation of flipping the fish. That includes hot dogs, which are also popular in his native country, as is practically anything else that can be prepared over glowing coals.

THE HEAT IS ON // Clockwise from top left, Mariano Brun’s chorizo sandwiches; Claudia Mendoza’s ribs; Michael Cordero grills Filipino-style; Xiaodong Zhang’s handiwork

BOARDING PASS Rest up with extra legroom in one of United’s Economy Plus seats, and feel refreshed and ready to explore NYC—the city that never sleeps.

THE LOVE CANAL The evening view by Hotel Seven Bridges

AMSTERDAM Encircled by canals and bursting with color, Amsterdam is a city of bike trails, tulip beds and 800 years of history. Start pedaling... BY ADAM K. RAYMOND // PHOTOGRAPHS BY BALL & ALBANESE Three Perfect Days 82 DAY ONE Shopping in Jordaan 86 DAY TWO Smelling the ﬂowers 88 DAY THREE Climbing a castle 81 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY2010

ROLLING ON A RIVER Above, inside and outside the Dylan Hotel; a pleasant canal view; and, opposite, a biker passes Cortina Papier.

There was a time when Amsterdam came in but two hues: the green of the rolling Dutch hills and the icy blue of the Amstel River. Eight hundred years ago, fishermen dammed the river, giving the city its name and starting the transformation from small port village to global hub of business and culture. It has endured the rule of feudal lords and Spanish kings, flourished as a center of art and finance, and suffered plagues brought by rats and terror wrought by Nazis. But a visit to present-day Amsterdam proves this city is a resilient one, maintaining its medieval charm while growing into one of Europe’s most forwardthinking and brightly colored metropolises.

ROBERT RISTESKI // OWNER, DESTINATION SHOP // “The Restaurant As is a cool concept. It’s built in a church that used to be a techno club in the nineties. Now it has big communal tables and serves locally sourced food.” BY PETER JAMESFIELD

ILLUSTRATIONS

ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS OPEN YOUR EYES in this 13th century metropolis and you’ll see that the bustling Dutch capital is alive with color, from the pink and purple tulips standing guard in front of canal houses to the dusty brown brick paths snaking between them. Look a little closer and you’ll see splatters of the bright orange representing the Dutch royal family, the blinding yellow of the city’s overﬂowing cheese shops and the burnt sienna and glowing ambers favored by its most famous artists, Vincent van Gogh and Rembrandt van Rijn.

DAY ONE Pull yourself out of bed as the warm silver light creeps into the The Dylan (1), a dapper 41-room hotel with a staff that confirms a widespread rumor about the Dutch— they’re extremely friendly. You’ve shrewdly booked the loft suite, a tranquil hideaway tucked under the building’s gable roof. After a moment of hesitation, you fight the urge to fall back into the marshmallow-soft bed and set out for the city below. Passing through The Dylan’s stone courtyard, you find yourself staring into the Keizersgracht, the widest and most handsome of Amsterdam’s canals. The name means King’s Canal, which is appropriate given the aristocratic feeling you have as you step into Bakery Paul Année (2), a cozy organic shop teeming with fresh-baked treats. Inside, you confront one of life’s ultimate dilemmas: bread, pastry or cookie? Sensing your indecision, the clerk points to a platter with a golden pastry on it. “You get the last one,” she says, handing you an apple date tart. One bite reveals why it’s sold out at 9 a.m. As you exit, you notice that you’re smack in the middle of the Nine Streets (3), the epicenter of Amsterdam cool. The streets straddle four canals and are dotted with designer boutiques, eateries and secondhand shops. Step into Cortina Papier (4) and grab a postcard to help you say hallo to those you left atAfterhome.a visit to the nearby fashion emporium SPRMRKT (5), a former supermarket that gave up its vowels and victuals for postmodern designs and asymmetrical haircuts, you emerge the new owner

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FLOWER TO THE PEOPLE

The Anne Frank House and, above, tulips for sale at Bloemenmarkt

of a leather jacket, and you continue your spin through the streets of the Jordaan until you stumble across Old Dutch Candy(6). Feeling disciplined, you ignore the chocolate and move on to the main attraction: licorice, or as the Dutch call it, “drop.” You rely on the expertise of the clerk, who hands you a Tootsie Roll–shaped piece of jet-black “drop” stuffed with a creamy beige substance called salmiak. Eyes closed, you take a skeptical nibble, only to ﬁnd that the contrast of salty and sweet is not just tolerable, it’sPocketdelicious.bulging with candy, you make your way to the nearby Anne Frank House(7). The line outside snakes around the building, but the ticket you bought online allows you to head right inside. Along with the perfectly preserved secret annex where Anne Frank and her family lived for two years, the museum includes exhibits on persecution and discrimination around the world. Quotations from the 13-year-old’s diary line the walls of the space, reminding you that Amsterdam wasn’t always as beautiful as it is today. It’s lunchtime, and here that means pancakes. The Dutch version is large, thin and often savory. You ascend the astonishingly steep stairs at the Upstairs Pancake House(8),enter a homey dining room and order something “typically Dutch,” a pizza-size example with bacon cooked into it and a warm layer of baked apples on top. Ten minutes later you’ve paid the cook the ultimate compliment: a clean plate. As you head back to The Dylan to reacquaint yourself with the mattress, you pass through Boekenmarkt(9),a bustling used book store stocked with the latest bestsellers and dog-eared classics. You stumble across a copy of The Dutch, I Presume?, a book that attempts to explain the peculiarities of Dutch culture, and pocket it for some canalside reading. After a quick nap back at the hotel, it’s time for dinner. You hop the tram to the eastern edge of town, where you’ve made reservations at De Kas(10), a former greenhouse converted into a haute eatery. Enjoy an aperitif on the porch as chefs shuffle past you to snip green herbs from the lavish garden. Once you’re seated, a server brings out a spread of fresh, in-season delicacies, including sliced turkey and pillowy roast pumpkin served with smoky bacon and jicama jus. The dessert, a sliver of white chocolate served with fresh rhubarb and pistachio ice cream, sends you home full and happy.

3PD AMSTERDAM

THE BIG CHEESE THE ALKMAAR CHEESE MARKET IS A DAIRY PARADISE // Wisconsinites may have claimed the nickname, but the Dutch are the true cheeseheads, and there’s no better place to sample their wares than the Alkmaar Cheese Market. A short drive from Amsterdam, Alkmaar is a sleepy Dutch town best known for a cheese bazaar it has hosted for 400 years. Each Friday, men in crisp white getups pull wooden sleds stacked with golden wheels of gouda to the town square. The cheese is laid out in long rows, just like it was in the 1600s, when dealers from across Europe traveled here to snatch up cheese wheels. Today the market is just for show, but visitors can get their ﬁll of edam and gouda from booths surrounding the square. The market is open from April to September.

PHOTOLIBRARYBYPHOTOGRAPHALKMAAR

DUTCH TREATS Clockwise from top left, De Kas restaurant; inside the Old Dutch Candy shop; apple tart at Bakery Paul Année; the houseboat museum

FILMINTERNATIONALDIRECTOR,DOCUMENTARYFESTIVAL “The Tuschinski Theatre, which was built in 1921, is my favorite place in the city. D.A. Pennebaker, Werner Herzog and Frederick Wiseman have all had premieres in the beautiful main theater.”

Heading south, you soon reach Vondelpark (4), a 120-acre tract that’s as green as it is big. You take the path that winds through the park, passing over footbridges and by flower beds that resemble thousand-count Crayola packs. Time for lunch. You make a beeline for the Albert Cuyp Market (5), a 100-year-old institution boasting an endless selection of Dutch street grub. Start at the western edge with smoldering fries topped with mayonnaise, sample some salted herring and potato croquettes, and then try a gooey stroopwafel (two thin waffles with caramel in the middle). Ready for some culture, you head to Museumplein, Amsterdam’s museum district. Stop by the Rijksmuseum (6) for a peek at 17th century works by Dutch greats such as Vermeer and Rembrandt. Then move on to something slightly more modern 200 steps away at the Van Gogh Museum (7), which houses more than 700 works by the master, including his personal favorite, The Potato Eaters, and enough flower still-lifes to fill a largeAftergarden.youreturn your bike, you amble back toward your hotel, pausing at Envy (8), a dimly lit eatery overlooking the stately Prinsengracht Canal. As you enter you notice chefs jumping from grill to cutting board to ALLY DERKS //

PICTURE PERFECT Razor clams and lobster at Envy; Vermeer’s best at the Rijksmuseum; and, opposite, the Envy’s exterior, by Prinsengracht canal

COLLECTORS’ EDITIONS // AMSTERDAM HAS A HOST OF STRANGE MUSEUMS // Plenty of cities boast art and history museums, but how many can claim entire feetwater.whatinsidewhichtheinthepieces.withfromcelebratesBagsthebeenstatelyblockstofurballsyouPaypaintingsfeline,intothat’scenturyKattenKabinetanddedicatedinstitutionstocats,purseshouseboats?Theisa17thcanalhousebeentransformedashrinetothecompletewithandpoems.closeattentionandmayspotafewloungingnexttheexhibits.AfewawayanothercanalhousehasconvertedintohauteMuseumofandPurses,whichfancytotesaroundtheworldacollectionof4,000Finally,locatedonPrinsengrachtCanaltheJordaan,oneﬁndsHouseboatMuseum,invitesvisitorstoexperiencelifeislikeontheGoahead,getyourwet. 2

Pedaling toward the center of town, you realize why 30 percent of Amsterdamers commute exclusively on bikes—it’s much faster than walking. You soon reach Oude Kerk (2), the oldest church in the city. Consecrated in 1306, it has seen dozens of renovations in the past 700 years, but the soaring wooden vault, the oldest in all of Europe, remains remarkably intact. Admire their sturdiness and then return to your wheels. Suddenly realizing you’re smack in the middle of De Wallen (3), the city’s notorious and somewhat rundown red-light district, you keep your eyes on the road and keep on pedaling.

DAY TWO After yesterday, you’ve resolved to give your feet a break and get around on two wheels. The city’s pioneering free bike program has been discontinued, but there are plenty of bike rental shops in the city. You choose Frederic Rentabike (1), which rents “incognito” bikes to those who prefer to slip into stealth tourist mode. Unlike the big, garish red bikes from the larger rental companies, Frederic’s are decidedly low-key, just like the ones locals ride.

PURSESANDBAGSOFMUSEUMOFCOURTESYPURSEOFPHOTOGRAPH

MARLOES VAN VUGT // OWNER, WALLS GALLERY // “I really love the Nine Streets. It’s full of boutiques, cafés, bars and all kinds of creative people. I still discover new things every time I go back.”

DAY THREE Hankering for something a little more quaint, you’ve switched your headquarters to the Seven Bridges Hotel (1), a bed and breakfast that overlooks seven arched canal bridges. After feasting on a breakfast platter delivered to your antiquecrammed room, you set out with a stomach full of coffee and a bag full of fruit left over from the generous spread. Your destination is Muiden, a waterfront hamlet 10 miles southeast of Amsterdam, home to Muiderslot (2), the most popular and well-preserved castle in the Netherlands. Built by Count Floris V in 1280, Muiderslot has been torn down and rebuilt several times, growing from a relatively modest single-story redoubt into the faded crimson behemoth it is today. As you stare across the slate gray Ijmeer Lake from a tiny top-ﬂoor window, you wonder what it would have been like to live in this glorious structure. Not half bad, you decide.

sink in the open kitchen at the front of the restaurant. You get hungry just watching, but soon a plate of silky-smooth veal paired with mushrooms and creamed parsnips arrives at your table and makes that hunger disappear.

Back on Muiden’s quiet main strip, you pass by enormous chestnut yachts docked in the harbor (and enormous strollers bumping down the sidewalk) on your way to Graaf Floris V Café (3), one of a handful of eateries in this tiny town. Order a broodje, or sandwich, layered with thinly sliced ham and several pieces of local gouda cheese, and enjoy an espresso so black it stains your glass. After hopping a train back to Amsterdam’s Central Station, you grab a taxi to Bloemenmarkt (4), the floating flower market on the southern edge of the Singel Canal. Technicolor tulips are the main attraction here, but if you look hard enough you can find anything with petals.

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HAUS BEAUTIFUL Façades of some common Amsterdam homes; Room 5 at Seven Bridges Hotel; and Leidseplein after sunset 3

Before turning in, take a small detour to Leidseplein (9), a packed square surrounded by bars, restaurants and clubs, where you sample a few local brews before deciding to leave the rest of the night to the more adventurous.

Dinner tonight is at Purimas (5), one the city’s best purveyors of rijsttafel, the Dutch version of a traditional Indonesian feast that pairs dozens of side dishes with bottomless bowls of rice. Your spread arrives, featuring chicken satay, spicy beef and curry pork, and you pack it away until you reach your bursting point, eventually opting to wave the white napkin of surrender. In that, it’s a little like Amsterdam itself—you can’t possibly take it all in at once.

Senior editor ADAM K. RAYMOND is still eating pancakes for lunch, along with breakfast and dinner. Boarding pass Fly United to enjoy the Old World charm of Amsterdam’s cafes and shops. Visit the Anne Frank House, Van Gogh Museum, the infamous Red Light District and the city’s squares,European-styledhistoricmuseumsandchurches.

89 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY2010 STANKIEWICZSTEVEBYILLUTRATIONSMAP THOSE THREE PERFECT DAYS DAY ONE (1) The Dylan Keizersgracht 384; Tel: 020-530-2010 (2) Bakery Paul Année Runstraat 25; Tel: 020-623-5322 (3) Nine Streets Between Singel and Prinsengract Canals in Jordaan (4) Cortina Papier Reestraat 22; Tel: 020-623-6676 (5) SPRMRKT Rozengracht 191-193; Tel: 020-330-5601 (6) Old Dutch Candy Egelantierdwarsstraat 2; Tel: 020-420-7390 (7) Anne Frank House Prinsengracht 263; Tel: 020-556-7100 (8) Upstairs Pancake House Grimburgwal 2 (9) Boekenmarkt Het Spui (10) De Kas Kamerlingh Onneslaan 3; Tel: 020-462-4562 DAY TWO DAY TWO (1) Frederic Rentabike Brouwersgracht 78; Tel: 020-624-5509 (2) Oude Kerk Oudekerksplein 23; Tel: 020-625-8284 (3) De Wallen South of Oude Kerk (4) Vondelpark South of Leidseplein (5) Albert Cuyp Market Albert Cuypstraat (6) Rijksmuseum Stadhouderskade 42; Tel: 020-674-7000 (7) Van Gogh Museum Paulus Potterstraat 7; Tel: 020-570-5200 (8) Envy Prinsengracht 381; Tel: 020-344-6407 (9) Leidseplein Between Weteringschans, Marnixstraat and Leidsestraat DAY THREE (1) Seven Bridges Hotel Reguliersgracht 31; Tel: 020-623-1329 (2) Muiderslot Herengracht 1; Tel: 029-425-6265 (3) Graaf Floris V Café Herengracht 72; Tel: 029-426-1296 (4) Bloemenmarkt On the Singel Canal between the Koningsplein and the Muntplein (5) Purimas Lange Leidsedwarsstraat 37-41; Tel: 020-627-7627 THE NETHERLANDS Amsterdam LjinbaansgrachtRozengrachtWesterstraatPrinsengracht Herengracht Damrak Leidsegracht Vijzelstraat Rokin Weteringschans Amstel 1 10 2 43 6 7 8 9 5 3 9 2 5 4 76 1 8 3 4 5 1 2

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With just a month left of summer, the warm rays are still enticing us to travel to that magical oasis where we can escape and take pleasure in nature’s gifts. Don’t you wish you could bring that vacation feeling home with you? Well, just because you have to leave your favorite resort and come back to reality doesn’t mean you have to settle for less than the best. Maybe you can’t stop thinking about that comfortable bed that put your mattress to shame, or the color scheme that invoked paradise. Once home, why not continue the pleasure and customize your space into a personal sanctuary with a little home improvement? It’s amazing how the simplicity of fresh paint and a new color can transform a room from pretty nice to phenomenal. Not to mention, we all love that fresh paint smell, don’t we? Maybe you’ve been eyeing some rich Brazilian hardwoods that would add the ﬁnishing touch to your favorite room, or the couch in your living room has started to fade into the background, even though it seemed like destiny when you ﬁrst found it. You deserve to enjoy your morning coffee in a room that jumpstarts your day. And why deprive yourself of a full cinema experience when you can have your own home theater system, and watch your favorite movies from the comfort of a new recliner that’s so comfortable, it actually feels old.

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PLAY Catch Miley Cyrus in 122 Customs & Immigration JU LY 2 0 1 0 CCatch in The Last Song INFORMATION 112 UnUnitedd DeDestinatnionnss 1166 Terminala Diagrarmsms 1221 AAlliances && Partnershshipsps Cusstomtoss&& 1310 Foood &d ENTERTAINMENTBeBeveragess 102 Films & Television 108 Audio Programming 124 Crossword 126 Sudoku

TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION JULY 1-15 The Bounty Hunter [T] JULY 16-31 Diary o f a Wimpy Kid JULY 1-15 The Office [T] Romantically Challenged [T] Brothers and Sisters [T] JULY 16-31 The Big Bang Theory [T] The Middle [T] Chuck [T][V] JULY 1-15 The Last Song JULY 16-31 Date Night [T] Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii JULY 1-15 30 Rock [T] Gary Unmarried [T] The Good Wife [T] JULY 16-31 Two and a Half Men [T] Parks and Recreation [T] Parenthood [T] JULY 1-15 Diary o f a Wimpy Kid JULY 16-31 The Bounty Hunter [T] Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii JULY 1-15 The Big Bang Theory [T] The Middle [T] Chuck [T][V] JULY 16-31 The Office [T] Romantically Challenged [T] Brothers and Sisters [T] JULY 1-15 The Bounty Hunt er [T] JULY 16-31 Diary o f a Wimpy Kid JULY 1-15 Two and a Half Men [T] The Good Wife [T] The Big Bang Theory [T] Frasier (Flashback) [T] JULY 16-31 30 Rock [T] Brothers and Sisters [T] Hubble’s Final Frontier Arrested(Flashback)Development[T] JULY 1-15 Dat e Night [T] JULY 16-31 The Last Song JULY 1-15 The Office [T] Chuck [T][V] Raging Planet [T] Friends (Flashback) [T] JULY 16-31 The Middle [T] This American Life [T] The Simpsons [T] Man V. Food &MEXICOHAWAIIAMERICANORTHCARIBBEAN JULY 1-15 Date Night [T] JULY 16-31 The Last Song JULY 1-15 Two and a Half Men [T] Parks and Recreation [T] Parenthood [T] JULY 16-31 30 Rock [T] Gary Unmarried [T] The Good Wife [T] &FILMTELEVISION FILMS ARE SHOWN ONLY on flights of three hours or longer. Movies available on most 747, 757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft flights. Schedules and selections are subject to change. International Language Tracks / (S) Películas están disponsibles en Español en todas las rutas domesticas en el canal 10. FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISIONSOUTHBOUND NORTHBOUND EASTBOUND WESTBOUND THE KIDS ARE ALRIGHT

UP UNTIL RECENTLY, HANNAH MONTANA was better-known than Miley Cyrus. But Cyrus has emerged from behind her Disney character to join the A-list. The Last Song, a ﬁlm written just for her, marks her coming of age. It’s not a Disney project. And more importantly, she’s neither sweet nor bubbly. In fact, she’s often downright surly. That a red-blooded 17-year-old would behave that way isn’t exactly news. But for a squeaky-clean child star, it constitutes a shift. Cyrus was lauded for her mature and feisty screen presence. See for yourself in The Last Song. Matt Thompson

FEATURING Tina Fey, Steve Carell

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR AIRLINE USE. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to our customers in choosing whether to view a ﬁlm. HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

| JULY 2010

DIRECTED BY Shawn Levy

THE BOUNTY HUNTER [T]

DIARY OF A WIMPY KID

FEATURING Zachary Gordon, Steve Zahn DIRECTED BY Thor Freudenthal 1 hr. 32 min. 1 hr. 48 min.

FEATURING Jennifer Aniston, Gerard Butler DIRECTED BY Andy Tennant 1 hr. 47 min.

DATE NIGHT [T] “Here’s proof that Tina Fey and Steve Carell could squeeze laughs out of a phone book.”— Rolling Stone

THE LAST SONG

“[Gerard] Butler is a hunk who can also act…[Jennifer] Aniston is a gifted comedienne.”— Chicago Sun-Times

1 hr. 28 min.

DIRECTED BY Julie Anne Robinson

Gerard Butler and Jennifer Aniston sizzle with onscreen chemistry when a bounty hunter gets an assignment to track down his ex-wife. He thinks it will be an easy, maybe even fun assignment, but he very quickly realizes that nothing ever goes that simply with them.

This sweet family ﬁlm based on the graphic novel series by Jeff Kinney takes viewers inside the adventures of wisecracking kid Greg Hefﬂey, who must somehow survive the scariest time of anyone’s life: middle school.

“[Miley Cyrus] does show off her considerable chops as a pianist and remains reasonably likable throughout.”— Variety A rebellious girl is sent to a southern beach town to stay with her estranged father. Through their love of music, the two learn to reconnect—and the girl ﬁnds romance along the way.

A bored and tired couple attempt to have a romantic date in the city. After they use another couple’s names to get a table at a swankt restaurant, a case of mistaken identity turns the evening into something thrilling and dangerous.

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME TO VIEW their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

103

FEATURING Miley Cyrus, Greg Kinnear

“A jaunty and forthright production with a lively look reﬂecting the book’s illustrated pages.”—Entertainment Weekly

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

TWO AND A HALF MEN [T]

THE OFFICE [T] When the sales staff begins to boss around everyone in the ofﬁce, Michael tries to teach them a lesson by withholding a valuable set of sales leads

&FILMTELEVISION TELEVISION DESCRIPTIONS

Like to plan ahead and know what’s playing before your flight? Text “MOVIE” to 75309 and you’ll get a reply with the current movies that are playing. If you really like to plan ahead, text “NEXT MOVIE” for next month’s movies. What do you think of our programming? We’re open to suggestions. Please send them to play@united.com or visit united.com/play.

CHUCK [T][V] Everyone’s favorite spy Chuck and his team are put in charge of protecting a Communist dictator, but Awesome and Ellie may also be in danger.

PARENTHOOD [T]

Adam and Kristina come to terms with the fact that their son may have Asperger’s syndrome. Sarah is on the job hunt and Zeek pushes her to dream big. Meanwhile, Crosby bonds with his newly discovered son, and Julia deals with an aggravating mom from Sydney’s school.

PLAY The Last Song stars they got older. ALL GROWN UP IF YOUR AIRCRAFT IS EQUIPPED with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket.

The views contained in the video content are not necessarily those of United.

Alan is torn between the bad inﬂuence of son Jake’s new friend and the hotness of that friend’s mother. Meanwhile, Charlie struggles to write the theme for a new TV show.

GET IN TOUCH

Leslie is upset when her boss, Ron, wins a coveted “Woman of the Year” award. Tom looks for investors for a new nightclub. And Andy considers moving into his own place.

THE GOOD WIFE [T] As disgraced politician Peter’s trial begins,his wife, Alicia, is busy with a civil trial defending a contemptible husband who was found not guilty of killing his wife. Meanwhile, Diane considers buying a gun for protection against an ex-con.

PARKS AND RECREATION [T]

We ﬂ y all around the world. But some of our best work happens when we volunteer right here at home.

At United, we volunteer our time, talents, and spirit to address critical community needs. We walk and run to support cancer awareness, and help bring a smile to kids who are sick. We help create sustainable communities by greening our neighborhoods and schools, fighting hunger, and providing critical transport during natural disasters. We take action to improve the lives of those around us. To learn more, visit united.com/corporateresponsibility

&FILMTELEVISION B747 MAINSCREEN PROGRAMMING INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Die Aufflistungder Sprachen für ausgewählte Spielfilme finden Sie für die 747-400 Maschinen auf Kanal 2 für alle weiteren Maschinen auf Kanal 10. (J) 日本語の吹き替えはチャンネル10番でお聴きいただけます。（一部英語音声のみとなります。） (C) 在747-400型飞机上这些故事片的音频位于第 10频道. 在其他型号的飞机上位于第2频道 (K) 채널 10 일 한국 영화 FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILMFILMTELEVISIONTELEVISION If your aircraft is equipped with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket. JAPAN & SOUTH KOREA CHINA & HONG &THAILANDJAPAN–HONGVIETNAM–HONGSINGAPORE–KONGKONGKONGTAIWAN The Bounty Hunter [T] (J)(C) Diary of a Wimpy Kid (J)(C) Alice in Wonderland [V] (J)(C) Valentine’s Day [S] (J)(C) Brothers and Sisters [T] (J) Discovery Project Earth (J) How Do They Do It? (J) Frasier (Flashback) [T] (C) The Mentalist [T][V] (C) Dirty Jobs (C) The Last Station [T] (C) Chuck [T][V] (C) Mega Engineering (C) Weird Connections (C) Chuck [T][V] (C) Mega Engineering (C) / Weird Connections (C) Chuck [T][V] (C) Mega Engineering (C) Weird Connections (C) Frasier (Flashback) [T] (C) The Mentalist [T][V] (C) Dirty Jobs (C) The Last Station [T] (C) *Alice In Wonderland [V] (J)(C) *Thailand flights only Without A Trace [T][V] (J) When We Left Earth: The NASA Missions (J) Friends (Flashback) [T] (J) Ho Chi Minh City to Hong Kong L eap Year [V] (J)(C) *How to Train Your Dragon (J)(C) *Thailand flights only Chuck [T][V] (C) Mega Engineering (C) Weird Connections (C) Without A Trace [T][V] (J) When We Left Earth: The NAS A Missions (J) Friends (Flashback) [T] (J) The Bounty Hunter [T] (J)(C) Diary of a Wimpy Kid (J)(C) Alice in Wonderland [V] (J)(C) Valentine’s Day [S] (J)(C) Date Night [T] (K)(C) The Last Song (J)(C) How to Train Your Dragon (J)(C)

The Bounty Hunter [T] (G) Diary of a Wimpy Kid (G) Alice in Wonderland [V] (G) Valentine’s Day [S] (G) The Good Wife [T] This American Life [T] The Office [T] Date Night [T] (G) The Last Song (G) How to Train Your Dragon Drachenzähmen leicht gemacht (G) The Ghost Writer [V] (G) The Bounty Hunter [T] (G) Diary of a Wimpy Kid (G) Alice in Wonderland [V] (G) Valentine’s Day [S] (G) The Good Wife [T] This American Life [T] The Office [T] Date Night [T] (G) The Last Song (G) How to Train Your Dragon The Ghost Writer [V] (G) Chuck [T][V] Brothers and Sisters [T] (G) The Big Bang Theory [T] AUSTRALIAGERMANY *Thailand flights only

The Ghost Writer [V] (J)(C) Date Night [T] (K)(C) The Last Song (J)(C) How to Train Your Dragon (J)(C) The Ghost Writer [V] (J)(C) Leap Year [V] (J)(C)Frasier (Flashback) [T] (C) The Mentalist [T][V] (C) / Dirty Jobs (C) Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh City

EASTBOUND WESTBOUND

Chuck [T][V] Brothers and Sisters [T] (G) The Big Bang Theory [T]

DIRECTED BY Tim Burton

United Airlines strives to make its customer experience safe and comfortable and accordingly has issued the following in regard to the use of electronic equipment/personal devices onboard its aircraft. However, the following is not a contract and does not create any legal rights or obligations. Certain electronic devices may not be used on our planes for safety reasons. Such devices may cause electromagnetic interference with cockpit navigation or communications systems during ground operations and while the aircraft is ﬂying below 10,000 feet. However, when an aircraft is traveling above 10,000 feet (normally about 10 minutes after takeoff), passengers can use many of the devices listed. Hearing aids, heart pacemakers and watches are acceptable at all times. These electronic devices can be used in the cabin, but may not be used during takeoff and landing: Calculators; handheld computer games; shavers; portable CD and tape players; laptop computers/ accessory printers/tape drives; portable VCRs/video players These electronic devices cannot be used on the airplane at any time: Cellular phones (cellular phones maybe used on the plane at the gate before the aircraft door is closed or at captain’s discretion when the plane is away from the gate and on the ground); televisions; AM/FM transmitters-receivers; remote-controlled toys

2 hr. 8 min.

FEATURING Anne Hathaway, Mia Wasikowska, Helena Bonham Carter

LEAP YEAR [V] Amy Adams stars in this comedy about a woman scheming to propose to her boyfriend on February 29, per Irish tradition. She faces a setback when she needs the help of an attractive innkeeper to get her to her boyfriend. After that, the surprises keep coming.

FEATURING Amy Adams, Matthew Goode, Adam Scott DIRECTED BY Anand Tucker

FEATURING Helen Mirren, Christopher Plummer, James McAvoy DIRECTED BY Michael Hoffman

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

In addition, United Airlines has an onboard photography and video policy. Customers who bring personal audio and video equipment onboard may only use these items with headsets. Noise-canceling headsets may be activated. The use of still and video cameras, ﬁlm or digital, including any cellular or other devices that have this capability, is permitted only for recording of personal events. However, photography, audio or video recording of other customers without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited. Also, unauthorized photography, audio or video recording of airline personnel, aircraft equipment or procedures is always prohibited. Any voice, audio, video or other photography (motion or still), recording or transmission while on any United Airlines aircraft is strictly prohibited, except to the extent speciﬁcally permitted by United Airlines.

VOICES BY Gerard Butler, Kristen Wiig, Jonah Hill DIRECTED BY Dean DeBlois, Chris Sanders

UAL Corporation October 2009. Digital media loading occurs between the 25th and 5th of each month. As a result, please understand if your ﬂight features a different lineup before and after the start of each month.

HOW TO TRAIN YOUR DRAGON Viking teenager Hiccup lives on the island of Berk, where ﬁghting dragons is a way of life. He’s a bit of an outcast with his tribe and its chief, who happens to be Hiccup’s father. However, when Hiccup is included in Dragon Training, he sees his chance to prove he’s a ﬁghter. But he encounters (and befriends) an injured dragon, and what started out as Hiccup’s one shot to prove himself turns into an opportunity to set a new course for the entire tribe.

1 hr. 49 min.

ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT/PERSONAL DEVICES

ALICE IN WONDERLAND [V]

THE LAST STATION [T] After almost 50 years of marriage, Leo Tolstoy’s devoted wife ﬁnds her world turned upside down: In the name of his newfound religion, the novelist renounces his title and family in favor of poverty. A tale of two romances, one beginning, one near its end, The Last Station is about the difﬁculty of living with love and the impossibility of living without it.

VALENTINE’S DAY [S] Valentine’s Day follows the lives of several couples on this special day. Their stories are told through the interconnections they have with each other. Some will ﬁnd romance in their relationship, and others will feel the heartbreak of ending a love affair.

FEATURING Ewan McGregor, Pierce Brosnan, Kim Cattrall

1 hr. 39 min.

107HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2010

THE GHOST WRITER [V] When a successful ghostwriter agrees to ﬁnish the memoirs of a former British prime minister, his agent assures him it’s the opportunity of a lifetime. But the project seems doomed—not least because his predecessor on the project, Lang’s long-term aide, died in an unfortunate accident.

Director Tim Burton brings his unique style to Lewis Carroll’s beloved classic about a young girl named Alice who follows a white rabbit down a dark hole and ﬁnds herself in a strange fantasy world ﬁlled with talking creatures and dangerous beings.

FEATURING Julia Roberts, Bradley Cooper, Jennifer Garner DIRECTED BY Garry Marshall 1 hr. 57 min.

1 hr. 52 min.

DIRECTED BY Roman Polanski

1 hr. 38 min.

The latest in Indie and Modern Rock. The best of pop music from around the world. The best contemporaryof jazz. The best of atmospheric and new age music. The latest in electronic and dance music.

The latest and greatest in world music. The latest and greatest in R&B and soul.

The latest top selling songs from Zune. The best of current adult pop. The greatest classic rock hits. The latest and greatest alternative hits. The best of current and classic country.

The best from the world of chamber music. The best in music performed on the piano. The best from the world of opera. The latest and classics from movie soundtracks. The best in comedy.

The best from the world of classical music. The latest and top selling music for kids.

Muse Muse tops the charts worldwide with their distinctive blend of progressive, electronic, and experimental rock. Listen to “Resistance” on the Modern Rock channel.

PROGRAMMINGAUDIO

Zac Brown Band GRAMMY-Award winning Zac Brown Band has proven that “overnight success” can be years in the making. Listen to ‘Highway 20 Ride’ on the Country Channel.

CHANNEL 777(2-CABIN)SELECTA320A319&A320747757/767(2-CABIN) 1 movie (english) movie (english) movie (english) movie (english) movie (english) 2 top songs in zunetop songs in zunetop songs in zunemovie (dubbed) top songs in zune 3 contemporary popcontemporary popcontemporary popmovie (dubbed) contemporary pop 4 classical classical classical classical classical 5 new wave new wave new wave new wave new wave 6 country country unavailable country country 7 classic rock classic rock unavailable classic rock classic rock 8 kids kids unavailable contemporary popkids 9 flight deck flight deck flight deck jazz/contemporary flight deck jazz/contemporary flight deck 10 indie/modern rockmovie (dubbed) movie (dubbed) top songs in zunemovie (dubbed) 11 world pop world pop world pop kids 12 new age new age new age new age 13 r&b/soul contemporary jazzcountry chamber music 14 electronic/danceelectronic/danceclassic rock world music 15 chamber musicchamber musickids 16 piano jazz 17 opera 18 soundtracks 19 comedy Zune and United bring you a sample of the music available to Zune users - across PCs, media players and more. Learn more about Zune music and video entertainment at www.zune.net/united Find your aircraft model on the grid below to find the Zune channel that’s right for you. flight deck A feature unique to United, live radio communications between the flight deck and Air Traf fi c Control is offered. As you listen, your flight will be identified by its fl ight number. May not be available on all flights. Available at your captain’s discretion. zune pass Like what you hear? Get all the music offered here today plus unlimited access to millions of other songs with a Zune® Pass music subscription.* Visit zune.net/zunepass to try it free for 14-days. on *Zune Pass is a monthly music subscription, available in the United States. Available content may vary over time.

the ultimate in ﬂight enter tainment Zune® HD is a premium portable entertainment experience in the palm of your hand. Listen to music, enjoy HD Radio™ broadcasts on the go, watch your favorite movies and TV shows, surf the web through a Wi-Fi connection, play games and more. You can even connect Zune HD to your HDTV* and watch your HD movies on the big screen. Not a bad way to pass time. Zune HD by Microsoft. Get yours today. Available at * Zune HD AV Dock and an HDTV (all sold separately) are required to view video at 720p HD resolution. Zune HD player screen is 480x272 – not HD. Zune HD is only available in the United States.

Introducing daily nonstops to Accra, Ghana. At United, we’re proud to announce our first service to Africa, with daily nonstop flights between Accra, Ghana, and Washington Dulles. Planes flying this route feature our new international first and business class cabins, with true 180° flat bed seats, 15" personal video monitors, and menus from renowned chef Charlie Trotter. For more information, visit united.com/accra . A cross the Atlantic to Africa, nonstop. ©2010 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Portland Vancouver Seattle Boise San Jose Las Vegas LOS ANGELES San Diego SAN FRANCISCO Oakland DENVER Sacramento Salt Lake Phoenix/ScottsdaleTucsonCity Albuquerque Colorado Springs HoustonSan Antonio KansasWorthFortDallas/CityOmahaOklahomaAustinCity Bozeman Orange County Tulsa El Paso Honolulu Ontario Kahului MoinesMinneapoliDesSpringfiel Spokane WichitaLincoln Missoula Rapid City Reno/Tahoe CalgaryEdmonton Winnipeg Jackson Hole Kona 050100150Miles 050100150200Kilometers Burbank MontroseSpringsSteamboatHayden/ButteCrestedGunnison/Vail/Eagle Fargo Gillette Rock Springs CrescentEurekaCity AspenCarlsbadBakersfieldChico YellowstoneCody/ CasperFresnoEugene FallsSioux JunctionGrand Medford Pasco Palm Springs Santa Barbara InyokernImperialSanMontereyLuisObispoSantaMaria Yuma Modesto Redmond Redding Bismarck ArkansasNorthwest Great Falls Idaho Falls KalispellAnchorage Puerto Vallarta Los Cabos Mexico City Billings Victoria Helena FallsKlamath North Bend ReginaSaskatoonMidland/OdessaDurango HarlingenBrownsvilleCorpusChristiAlamosaLaramieScottsbluffChadronAllianceMcAllenLaredoMinotPierreLiberalKearneyHuronMcCookDodgeCityGreatBendGardenCityHaysSalinaPuebloFarmingtonCortezTellurideLakePage/Powell Show Low Prescott Moab WorlandSheridan DickinsonMilesGlasgowSidneyCityWillistonLewistown MercedVisalia Hilo Kapalua IslandGrand Vernal North Platte Cheyenne Riverton ROUTE MAPS NORTH AMERICAN CITIES United/United Express Route Cities served by United and United Express Cities served by Star Alliance or partner Code Share UNITED HUB Time zone boundary Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

SpartanburgGreenville/WestOrlandoMiamiPalmBeachCharlestonSavannah Baltimore LouisvilleBirminghamMemphisMilwaukee Philadelphia St. Louis Tampa/St. Petersburg ClevelandCharlotte Detroit Jacksonville OrleansNew New York (La Guardia) (J.F. Norfolk/VirginiaKennedy)Beach Toronto Albany Atlanta Boston ColumbusColumbiaNashville RichmondRaleigh/Durham WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) SpringfieldHartford/ Cincinnati ProvidencePortland Newark Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem LexingtonGrandRapids Ft.SyracuseLauderdale/HollywoodBuffalo/NiagaraFalls Knoxville Manchester Ft. Myers Indianapolis eapolis Dayton HarrisburgAllentown Madison Pittsburgh FoxAppleton/Cities Burlington IowaRapids/CedarCity Wausau WayneFt. Green Bay PlainsWhite LansingMidland/Saginaw Moline Rochester MishawakaBend/Elkhart/South gfield Charleston Traverse CityAkron/Canton CollegeStateWilkesScrantonBarre/Charlottesville Roanoke Springfield (Reagan National) San Juan Peoria AshevilleAugusta Halifax Ottawa Pensacola Tallahassee Myrtle Fayetteville/Ft.Beach Bragg GainesvilleHilton Head Island DecaturHuntsville/ JacksonvilleCorningIthaca/ Long Island/Islip New Bern Tri-Cities Regional BinghamtonWilmington 0100200300400Miles 0100200300400500600Kilometers Newport News/Williamsburg Greenvillewestsas RockLittle Antigua Punta Cana St. Kitts Providenciales St. Lucia Cozumel Santo Domingo St. Thomas St. Maarten Montego Bay Altoona ParkersburgBeckleyJohnstownShenandoahValleyClarksburgMorgantown FreeportNassau Grand Cayman Hamilton London Duluth Chattanooga BiloxiGulfport/ Huntington New Haven Williamsport City JacksonMobileMontgomery NewburghSalisbury Ft. BeachWalton Florence PaducahMuskegon RougeBaton North Eleuthera Eau Claire Houghton Daytona Key West BurlingtonWaynesville 113HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2010

Sydney Brisbane CairnsPerthShanghaiBeijing San FranciscoFuzhouShenyangChengduChongqingGuangzhouShenzhen Los Angeles Queenstown Wellington Seattle Rarotonga OsakaTokyoSendaiNagoyaHiroshima Okinawa Seoul Sapporo Fukuoka Hong Kong Delhi Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) Auckland Melbourne DunedinChristchurchNadi ApiaHonolulu Pusan BangkokHanoi Denver Dallas Singapore GuatemalSan Taipei Kota Kinabalu Phuket Komatsu Baotou Hangzhou Harbin WuhanNanjingQingdaoXiamen Ma Kuala Lumpur Kolkata Dalian Saipan Rotorua Edmonton Majuro Guam ROUTE MAPS INTERNATIONAL CITIES United Route Code Share route serviced by a Star Alliance member Code Share route serviced by a United Partner Cities served by United, United Express and Code Share partners Time zone boundary Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

Philadelphia Miami NewArubaYorkBoston Frankfurt Washington,CityBelize DC Rio de Janeiro Copenhagen Chicago Newark Addis Ababa Paris Chennai (Madras) Tel Aviv Kuwait Lagos MunichJohannesburgHouston Accra MumbaiBangalore Rome Delhi Amman Alma-AtaAmsterdamCape Town Madrid Stockholm London Dubai Abu Dhabi Muscat Vienna Atlantallas Detroit WarsawShannon Buenos Aires temala City an Salvador Brussels CairoAsmara Bahrain Dakar Lisbon EastDurbanLondon Porto Hyderabad Orlando Tbilisi Port Elizabeth Lima TegucigalpaCuzcoSanPedroSulaManagua PeshawarLahoreIslamabadCochinColomboTrivandrumLiberia Doha Abuja Karachi Geneva CuritibaBrasilia Fortaleza Manaus PortoBeloAlegreSalvadorHorizonteIguassu Falls Recife Dublin Moscow Charlotte JeddahRiyadh Sal Istanbul Belfast Manchester BirminghamBristol EdinburghBarcelonaGlasgow OsloHamburgMilanBerlin PanamaMontrealCityTorontoOttawa Athens Abidjan OuagadougouCotonouBanjulMonroviaConakryFreetown BujumburaEntebbeKigali Nairobi DoualaYaounde Santiago Montevideo 115 Budapest LisbonPorto Turin Lyon Geneva LondonParis Oslo HamburgCopenhagen Brussels MilanFrankfurtHannoverNurembergVenicePisaRomeNaplesTrieste Istanbul Bucharest Kiev Vienna MunichPrague Warsaw Helsinki BerlinLuga Bremen GrazInnsbruck LinzKlagenfurtSalzburg Sofia Sarajevo Cologne Dresden Verona Vilnius Katowice MarseilleStuttgartNice Riga Stavanger Ancona Dublin BolognaFlorenceGenoa Stockholm Amsterdam Basel EdinburghAberdeen Belfast Birmingham Bergen Ankara Glasgow Manchester BelgradeSkopje ShannonCork AdanAntalya Izmir Leipzig HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2010

Flight

United or

terminal diagrams on pages 117-120 to plan

seats.

and interterminal

INFORMATION & TERMINAL DIAGRAMS MAKING YOUR

ticket counters, United

schedule.

FLIGHT.

the Star

CONTACT INFORMATION Customer Relations 800-UNITED-1united.comEmail:united.com/customerrelationscustomerrelations@(800-864-8331) Red Carpet Club™ 520-881-0500866-UA-CLUBSunited.com/redcarpetclub(toll-free)(outsidethe U.S.) Hearing Impaired (TDD) 800-323-0170 Reservaciones en Español 800-426-5561 United Cargo 800-UA-CARGOunitedcargo.com(800-822-2746) United Services unitedsvcs.com Meetings Plus 800-MEET-UAL (800-633-8825) Duty Free World 6095 NW 167th St. Suite D-4 Miami, FL 33015 USA 800-668-6182 United Vacations 800-32-TOURSunitedvacations.com(800-328-6877) Charter an Airplane united.com/charter Small Package Same Day Shipping Small Package Dispatch (SPD)— Airport-to-airport service: 800-722-5243 Employment Opportunities 888-UAL-JOBSunited.com/jobs(888-825-5627) EasyCheck-in kiosks are located on the concourse to assist customers who have experienced a misconnection or canceled flight. Customers who have e-tickets and are traveling domestically may use the kiosk to: 1. Rebook on another flight 2. Obtain a boarding pass 3. Standby for the next flight to their destination will provide you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events—such as weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted rate; however United does not cover hotel or meal expenses in this event. If we can not retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent. What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or cancelation you decide not to travel, call United reservations (1-800 UNITED-1) to get information on your options. Help us help you keep informed. Sign up for EasyUpdate®, our messaging service. If your flight is canceled or delayed, EasyUpdate® will inform you. Enroll at united.com/easyupdate. At home? Go to united. com for information or to check-in and print your boarding pass. Your safety and satisfaction are important. We appreciate your business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced. DOMESTIC

At United Airlines, priority is safety and keeping an on-time On occasion, canceling or delaying a flight is the only option to assure maintain the highest safety standards. canceled? We automatically confirm you on the next United flight with available EasyCheck-in® units located in the concourse will assist you with information and a boarding pass—it will also help you standby for an earlier United flight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United flight to your destination until you are onboard.

What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next flight if space is available. This means your bags may arrive before you. United will secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative. What if I have to stay overnight? If a flight is canceled to address a mechanical issue or another similar reason within our control, we CONNECTING Whether your next flight is on one of Alliance partners around the world, use the your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show Red Carpet Clubs transportation.

Reservations 800-UNITED-1united.com (800-864-8331) Automated Flight Information 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331) Mileage Plus 24-Hour Account Information & Award 800-UNITED-1united.com/mileageplusTravel(800-864-8331) Mileage Plus Visa Customer Service 800-537-7783united.com/chase Baggage Services 800-UNITED-1united.com/baggage(800-864-8331) Refunds 800-UNITED-1united.com/refunds(800-864-8331) TRAVEL ASSISTANCE FOR DELAYED OR CANCELED FLIGHTS

our

117HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2010 WASHINGTON / DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.IAD Concourse D MAIN TERMINAL C2 C12 C18 C Connector Tunnel Train Shuttle Bus C24 C1A2A4A6 A14 A32 B37B79A1A3A5C9 C17 C27 D1D3D2 D8 D30 Shuttle Bus Concourse A South African Airways Concourse C Air Canada Concourse B AustrianANAAirlinesContinentalLufthansaSASZ GATES US Airways CHICAGO / O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.ORD TERMINALONE TERMINALTWO TERMINALTHREE Elevated Airport Transit System (ATS) PedestrianTunnel TERMINALFIVE InternationalArrivals Concourse F US Airways Concourse M Concourse E Air Canada Concourse B ContinentalLufthansa Concourse C ANA C1 B1 F1 F4 F11 F14 F10F6 E1 B6 B9 B18B14 B22 C17 C19 C18C24C32 C16 C8 Shuttle runs between Gates C9 and E3. E3 C9Shuttle Bus United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Power Charging Station Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop / Train Stop United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center Medical Center United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS DOMESTIC & OVERSEAS DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.DEN 57 ★ TERMINALWEST TERMINALEAST Concourse C US Airways Concourse B Concourse A Air ContinentalCanadaLufthansa 2528261516 3736 35 41 3938 4950 60 80 919281 57 77 SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.SFO 72 Concourse G United Air New LufthansaANAZealandSingapore Concourse A Asiana Concourse B ContinentalUSAirways Concourse E Air CanadaConcourse F TERMINAL 1 TERMINAL 3 80798988 81 73International Terminal Secure Connector 76A78A 71 Rountrip Shuttle service between Terminal G and Terminal 1. MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next ﬂight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 117-120 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. TOM INTERNATIONALBRADLEYTERMINAL ThaiLufthansaAirwaysANASingaporeAsianaSwiss TERMINAL 3TERMINAL 2 Air Canada Air New Zealand TERMINAL 1 US Airways TERMINAL 4TERMINAL 5TERMINAL 6 Continental TERMINAL 7TERMINAL 8 67A69A 68B64 75A71A 7672 888070A 124B Shuttle Bus LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.LAX United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Power Charging Station United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center Medical Center United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Train Stop United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center

TERMINAL 4 TERMINAL 5 TERMINAL 3 TERMINAL 1 TERMINAL 2 37 39 49 48 4756 50 54 42 44 36 Shuttle Bus Shuttle Bus LONDON / HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTLHR 119HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2010 FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTFRA B300-B303 B332-B340 TERMINAL ONE Pier A, Level 3 Gates A51-A65 Pier B Pier C C5 B20 B24 B26 B28 B48 B46 B44 C1 C7 C8 Pedestrian Transfer Tunnel Train to Terminal 2 Lufthansa Tower Lounge Level 5 TOKYO / NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTNRT Satellite 3 Satellite Satellite2 1 Satellite 5 Satellite 4 TERMINAL 1 313743 47 38 32 North Wing South WingPedestrianTunnel Third Floor Zone A ZoneFourthD Floor United Gate Area United Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop United Gate InterterminalAreaTrain Stop Medical Center United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Premier Check-In Medical Center

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS STAR ALLIANCE United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Power Charging Station Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop / Train Stop United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center Medical Center US AIRWAYS HUBS CONTINENTAL HUBS CHARLOTTE DOUGLAS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTCLT PHOENIX SKY HARBOR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTPHX PHILADELPHIA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTPHL CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTCLE B3C2 D2 D6 D10 D14 D17 D21 D25 D28 C7C14 C16C19 C22 C25 C29 C10 C4 Concourse C Continental Concourse B United Concourse A Concourse D Continental Pedestrian Tunnel NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTEWR AirTrain 130127136 102101115 72 887571 B3 B2 B1 A1A2 A380 98 92 TERMINAL A ContinentalUnited TERMINAL B TERMINAL C Continental Shuttle Bus HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORTIAH TerminaLink connects B, C, D and E. It is above ground transportation between terminals while inside security. TerminaLink Shuttle Bus TERMINAL A United TERMINAL B TERMINALS A-E Continental TERMINAL CTERMINAL E TERMINAL D A25-30A3-15A17-24 B76-83 B84-91 C34-42C14-23 E1-9 E10-14E15-24B68-75 B60-67 Concourse A United Concourse BConcourse C Concourse D ConcourseConcoursesE B-E US Airways 24 Continuous shuttle bus pickup and drop-off between Gates F10 and C16. Concourse A West Concourse A East Concourse BConcourse C Concourse D United Concourses A, B, C & F US Airways Concourse E Concourse F 1 7 13 To transfer between terminals, catch the interterminal bus curbside. Concourse A Concourse B Concourse B International TERMINAL 4 US Airways TERMINAL 2 United 71

ALLIANCES AND PARTNERSHIPS REGIONAL ALLIANCE PARTNERS

STAR ALLIANCE Established in 1997 as the ﬁrst truly global airline alliance to offer customers a worldwide travel network that aims to provide customers a seamless travel experience across multiple airlines. Today the Star Alliance network offers more than 18,900 daily ﬂights to 983 destinations in 169 countries.

Effective JUNE 13, 2010, TAM will become a Star Alliance member

With the largest airline alliance, you can earn miles almost anywhere in the world you fly. Miles can be earned on most fares on almost every Star Alliance flight and can be credited to your Mileage Plus account. Plus the flight miles you earn will count toward elite status in Mileage Plus. See united.com/airpartners for details.

AWARD TRAVEL IS NOW EASIER With Star Alliance Awards, you can use your Mileage Plus miles for award travel on any Star Alliance carrier worldwide. Or use them for Star Alliance Upgrade Awards—upgrade to a premium cabin and travel in comfort (available on most Star Alliance airlines).

STAR ALLIANCE PARTNERS

Aer Lingus Air HawaiianGreatEmiratesContinentalDolomitiConnectionLakesAirlines Island Air Jet TACAQatarAirwaysAirwaysGroup You can earn and redeem miles on many of our Regional Alliance Partners. See united.com/airlinepartners for speciﬁc information about each of our Regional Alliance Partners.

EARN MILEAGE PLUS® MILES AND ELITE STATUS FASTER

EARN RECOGNITION AROUND THE WORLD The more miles you fly with United and the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your Mileage Plus elite status can be: Premier®, Premier Executive® or 1K®. Mileage Plus elite status is recognized across the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel benefits worldwide. See united.com/staralliance for the Star Silver and Star Gold benefits you can receive.

121HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2010

ENJOY A WORLD OF STAR ALLIANCE CONNECTIONS AND PRIVILEGES. Aegean is the newest member of the Star Alliance. Aegean offers ﬂights within Greece as well as from Greece to destinations in Europe and neighboring countries. The ﬂight miles you earn on Aegean can be credited to your Mileage Plus account.

poisons, infectious substances NOTE There are special exceptions for small quantities of up to 70 oz. (2 kg or 2 liters) of medicinal and toilet articles carried in your luggage. For further information, check with any airline representative. IMPORT RESTRICTIONS Please note new controls on the import of meat, ﬁsh, plants and their products into the United Kingdom and European Union. Check the advisory notices displayed in the baggage hall for a detailed explanation of these restrictions. If you possess any of these items, please declare them to customs in the red channel to avoid legal consequences.

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL

&CUSTOMSIMMIGRATION ENTRY CUSTOMSREGULATIONSDECLARATION ENGLISH All passengers (or one per family) are required to complete the Customs Declaration forms prior to arrival in the U.S. The forms will be distributed inflight and should include all personal data in English and in capital letters. Please ensure you sign your name. SPANISH/ESPAÑOL Todos los pasajeros (o uno por cada familia) tienen que llenar los formularios de Declaración de Aduanas antes de llegar a los EE.UU. Los formularios se distribuirán durante el veulo y deben incluir todos sus datos personales en inglés y con letras mayúsculas. No olvide firmar en el reverso del formulario. 1. Apellido, Nombre, Segundo nombre 2. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 3. Cuántos familiares viajan con usted 4. (a) Dirección en los EE.UU. (nombre del hotel/lugar) (b) Ciudad, (c) Estado 5. Pasaporte expedido en (páis) 6. Número del pasaporte 7. País de residencia 8. Países que visitó durante este viaje antes de su llegada a los EE.UU. 9. Línea aérea/número de vuelo o nombre del barco 10. El propósito principal de este viaje es de negocios: Sí / No 11. Traigo (Traemos) (a) frutas, plantas, alimentos, insectos:Sí/No (b) carnes, animales, productos de animales o silvestres: Sí / No (c) agentes de enfermedades, cultivos celulares, caracoles:Sí / No (d) tierra o he (hemos) estado en finca/ granja/pastizales: Sí / No 12. He (Hemos) estado en cercanías de ganado (tocando o manipulándolo): Sí / No 13. Llevo (Llevamos) divisas o instrumentos monetarios por valor superior a $10,000 o su equivalente en moneda extranjera (Véase la definición de instrumentos monetarios alSídorso):/No 14. Tengo (Tenemos) mercancías comerciales (artículos para la venta, muestras para solicitar pedidos o bienes que no constituyen efectos personales):Sí/No 15. Residentes—el valor total de todos los bienes, incluidas las mercancías comerciales que he (hemos) comprado en el extranjero, (incluyendo regalos para otras personas, pero sin incluir los artículos enviados por correo a los EE.UU.) y que estoy (estamos) introduciendo en los EE.UU. es de: Visitantes—el$___ valor total de todos los artículos que permanecerán en los EE.UU., incluidas las mercancías comerciales, es de: $___ ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the U.S., all foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents or nationals of countries entitled to the Visa Waiver Program—see I-94W on next page) are required to complete an I-94 form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the form. Please do not write on the back side of the form. All information should be written in capital letters and in English. You are required to keep this form until your departure from the U.S. SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada a los Estados Unidos, todos los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto los ciudadanos de Canadá y los residentes permanentes en los Estados Unidos o ciudadanos de los países que tienen el Programa “Visa Waiver”—Ver formulario I-94W en hoja adjunta) tienen que llenar un formulario I-94. Hay que rellenar un formulario por cada miembro de la familia. Los pasajeros llenarán toda la información personal y relativa al viaje que se incluye en el anverso del formulario. Le rogamos que no escriba en el reverso del formulario. Toda la información debe estar escrita con letras mayúsculas y en inglés. Le rogamos que guarde este formulario hasta que salga de los Estados Unidos. 1. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de (Día/Mes/Año)nacimiento 4. País de ciudadanía 5. Sexo (masculino o femenino) 6. Fecha de emisión del pasaporte 7. Fecha de vencimiento del pasaporte 8. Número de pasaporte 9. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 10. País donde vives 11. País en el que abordaron 12. Ciudad donde obtuvo el visado 13. Fecha del visado (Día/Mes/Año) 14. Direccion donde se quedará en los EE.UU (Número, calle) 15. Ciudad y Estado 16. Teléfono de contacto en EE.UU. 17. Dirección de correo electrónico 18. Apellido 19. Nombre 20. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 21. Pais de ciudadanía ENGLISH Effective January 12, 2009, all passengers who intend to travel to the United States without a U.S. Visa under the terms of the Visa Waiver Program must obtain an electronic preauthorization or ESTA in advance of travel. When planning international travel, please be sure that you are in possession of all required documents. Remember to allow ample time for acquiring official travel documents. For complete information on the requirements, and to apply for ESTA, please visit www. cbp.gov/esta. HAZARDOUS MATERIALS The following items are considered hazardous materials. Do not pack in checked or carry-on luggage. FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR SOLIDS Fuel, paints, solvents, lighter fluid, matches WEAPONS Loaded firearms, ammunition, gunpowder, Mace, tear gas, pepper spray HOUSEHOLD ITEMS Drain cleaners and solvents COMPRESSED GASES Spray can, butane fuel, oxygen bottles FIREWORKS Firecrackers, sparklers or explosives OTHER HAZARDOUS MATERIALS Dry ice, gasoline-powered tools, camping equipment with fuel, wet cell batteries, oxidizers, corrosives, radioactive materials, DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection OMB No. 1651-0111 OMB No. 1651-0111 CBP Form I-94 (05/08) CBP Form I-94 (05/08) CBP Form I-94 (05/08) STAPLE HERESee Other Side Admission Number Arrival Record 000000000 00 Departure Record 000000000 00 1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 4. Country of Citizenship 5. Sex (Male or Female) 8. Passport Number 9. Airline and Flight Number 10. Country Where You Live 11. Country Where You Boarded 12. City Where Visa Was Issued 13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY) 14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 17. Email Address 18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 21. Country of Citizenship DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection 15. City and State 6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY)7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY) Welcome to the United States I-94 Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit. Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form. This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer. Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space. 5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal. I-94 ARRIVAL / DEPARTURE RECORD

HAZARDOUS MATERIALS NOTICE & IMPORT RESTRICTIONSELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORIZATION

A partir del 12 de enero de 2009, todos los pasajeros que quieran viajar a los EE.UU. (entre los terminos del programa de no tener que usar la Visa) tendran que obtener una preautorización electronica o ESTA antes de viajar. Cuando estés coordinando viajes internacionales, este seguro que tenga todos los documentos requerídos. No se olvide de dejar tiempo suﬁciente para adquirir los documentos oﬁciales de viaje. Para información completa sobre todos los requisitos, y para aplicar para ESTA, por favor visite www.cbp.gov/esta.

Plantar Flexion: Lift the heel and keep toes pointed toward the ﬂoor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Admission Number Government Use Only Departure Record VISA WAIVER 00000000000 Admission Number Arrival Record VISA WAIVER 6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY) 7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY) Departure

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada en los Estados Unidos, los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto ciudadanos Canadienses y residentes permanentes de los Estados Unidos) que no tengan un visado de visita y se acojan al programa “Visa Waiver”, tienen que completar el formulario I-94W. Se requiere un formulario por cado miembro de familia. Los pasajeros deberán rellenar toda información tanto personal como relacionada con viajes en el anverso de la tarjeta. Por favor, asegúrese de contestar todas las preguntas , firmen y pongan la fecha en el lugar indicado en el formulario. Todos los pasajeros deben proporcionar una dirección en Estados Unidos para entrar al país. Los países que participan del Programa de exención de visas son los siguientes: Alemania. Andorra, Australia, Austria, Bélgica, Brunei, *Corea del Sur, Dinamarca, *Eslovaquia, Eslovenia, Espána, *Estonia, Finlandia, Francia, *Grecia, *Hungría, Irlanda, Islandia, Italia, Japón, *Letonia, Liechtenstein, * Lituania, Luxemburgo, *Malta, Mónaco, Noruega, Nueva Zelandia, Países Bajos, Portugal,*República Checa, San Marino, Singapur, Suecia, Suiza y el Reino*LosUnido.ciudadanos de estos países deben presentar un electrónicos (e-ppt) pasaporte para ser elegible para del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos. Los ciudadanos de los demás países exentos de visas deben presentar un pasaporte de lectura electrónica en el marco del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos a partir del 26 de octubre de 2004. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) Nacionalidad Sexo (varón/hembra) Fecha de emisión del pasaporte Fecha de vencimiento del pasaporte 8. Número de pasaporte 9. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 10. País de residencia País en el que abordó 12. Direccion donde se quedará en los EE.UU (Número, calle) 13. Ciudad y Estado 14. Teléfono de contacto en EE.UU. 15. Dirección de correo electrónico SPANISH / ESPAÑOL ¿Le afecta alguna de estas restricciones a usted? (Conteste Si o No) A. ¿Padece usted de alguna enfermedad contagiosa, deficiencia física o mental, o es adicto a las drogas? Sí / No B. ¿Ha sido usted arrestado o condenado por alguna infracción o delito de depravación moral; o por una violación relacionada con estupefacientes; arrestado o condenado por dos o más infracciones cuya sentencia total de reclusión fuera igual o superior a cinco años; ha sido traficante de estupefacientes, o pretende entrar en los Estados Unidos para realizar actividades criminales o inmorales? Sí / No C. ¿Ha estado o está implicado en actos de espionaje o sabotaje, actividades terroristas o genocidios; o participó de algún modo entre 1933 y 1945 en persecuciones relacionadas con la Alemania nazi o sus aliados? Sí / No D. ¿Tiene intención de trabajar en los Estados Unidos; ha sido excluido o deportado; o ha sido expulsado de los Estados Unidos, o ha obtenido o intentado obtener un visado o la entrada a los Estados Unidos por medios fraudulentos o dando información falsa? Sí / No E. ¿Ha detenido, retenido, o impedido la custodia de un niño que corresponda legalmente a un ciudadano de los Estados Unidos? Sí / No F. ¿Se le ha cancelado o denegado alguna vez el visado o la entrada en los Estados Unidos? En caso afirmitavo, especifique? Sí / No ¿Cúando? ¿Dónde? G. ¿Ha hecho valer alguna vez su inmunidad frente a un procesamiento? Sí / No IMPORTANTE: Si ha contestado afirmativamente alguna de las preguntas, comuníquese con la Embajada de los Estados Unidos ANTES de su viaje, ya que se le puede denegar la entrada en los Estados Unidos.

Inversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at back of the knee. Repeat with other leg.

ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the United States, foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents) who are not in possession of a visitors visa and are entitled to the Visa Waiver Program are required to complete the I-94W form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the card. Please ensure that you answer all questions and sign and date where indicated on the back side of this form. All customers must provide a U.S. address for Countriesentry.that are participants of the Visa Waiver Program are as follows: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, *Czech Republic, Denmark, *Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, *Greece, *Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, *Latvia, Liechtenstein, *Lithuania, Luxembourg, *Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, *Slovakia, Slovenia, *South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, the United Kingdom.

*Nationals of these countries must present an electronic (e-ppt) passport to be eligible for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program. Nationals of all Visa Waiver countries must present a machine-readable passport for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

WAIVER OF RIGHTS: hereby waive any rights to review or appeal of a U.S. Customs and Border Protection officer’s determination as to my admissibility, or to contest, other than on the basis of an application for asylum, any action in deportation.

CERTIFICATION: certify that have read and understand all the questions and statements on this form. The answers have furnished are true and correct to the best of my knowledge and belief.

Important – Retain this permit in your possession; you must surrender it when you leave the U.S. Failure to do so may delay your entry into the U.S. in the future. You are authorized to stay in the U.S. only until the date written on this form. To remain past this date, without permission from Department of Homeland Security authorities, is a violation of the law. Surrender this permit when you leave the U.S.: By sea or air, to the transportation line; Across the Canadian border, to Canadian Official; Across the Mexican border, to U.S. Official. Warning: You may not accept unauthorized employment; or attend school; or represent the foreign information media during your visit under this program. You are authorized to stay in the U.S. for 90 days or less. You may not apply for: 1) a change of nonimmigrant status; 2) adjustment of status to temporary or permanent resident, unless eligible under section 201(b) of the INA; or 3) an extension of stay. Violation of these terms will subject you to deportation. Any previous violation of this program, including having previously overstayed on this program without proper DHS authorization, will result in a finding of inadmissibility as outlined in Section 217 of the Immigration and Nationality Act.

DECLARACIÓN: Declaro que he leído y entendido todas las preguntas y enunciados enumerados en esta solicitud, y que las respuestas que he propocionado en este formulario son verdaderas y correctas a mi mejor saber y entender. on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal.

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection OMB No. 1651-0111 OMB No. 1651-0111 CBP Form I-94W (05/08) CBP Form I-94W (05/08) STAPLE HERESee Other Side 00000000000 1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 4. Country of Citizenship 5. Sex (Male or Female) 8. Passport Number 9. Airline and Flight Number 10. Country Where You Live 11. City Where You Boarded 12. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 13. City and State 14. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 15. Email Address 18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 21. Country of Citizenship 5 U.S.C. 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited

11.

FlightDate:Port: No./Ship Name: Paperwork Reduction Act Statement: An agency may not conduct or sponsor an information collection and person is not required to respond to this information unless it displays current valid OMB control number. The control number for this collection is 1651-0111. The estimated average time to complete this application is minutes per respondent. If you have any comments regarding the burden estimate you can write to U.S. Customs and Border Protection, Asset Management, 1300 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW, Washington DC 20229

Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No IMPORTANT: If you answered “Yes” to any of the above, please contact the American Embassy BEFORE you travel to the U.S. since you may be refused admission into the United States. Family Name (Please print) First Name Country of CitizenshipSignature Date

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

your

Do any of the following apply to you? (Answer Yes or No) Do you have communicable disease; physical or mental disorder, or are you drug abuser or addict? Have you ever been arrested or convicted for an offense or crime involving moral turpitude or a violation related to a controlled substance; or been arrested or convicted for two or more offenses for which the aggregate sentence to confinement was five years or more; or been controlled substance trafficker, or are you seeking entry to engage in criminal or immoral activities? Have you ever been or are you now involved in espionage or sabotage; or in terrorist activities; or genocide; or between 1933 and 1945 were involved, in any way, in persecutions associated with Nazi Germany or its allies? Are you seeking to work in the U.S.; or have ever been excluded and deported; or been previously removed from the United States; or procured or attempted to procure visa or entry into the U.S. by fraud or Havemisrepresentation?youeverdetained, retained or withheld custody of child from a U.S. citizen granted custody of the child? Have you ever been denied a U.S. visa or entry into the U.S. or had a U.S. visa cancelled? If yes, when? ______________________ where? _________________________ Have you ever asserted immunity from prosecution? Yes NoF.E.D.C.B.A.

Eversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

STAYING FIT: INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / FRONT I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / BACK 123HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2010

RENUNCIA DE DERECHOS: Por la presente renuncio el derecho a solicitar la revisión del Oﬁcial de Inmigración acerca de mi admisión en los Estados Unidos, o a apelarla, o a impugnar cualquier acto de deportación que no sea por razón de una solicitud de asilo.

Welcome to the United States I-94W Nonimmigrant Visa Waiver Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by every nonimmigrant visitor not in possession of a visitor’s visa, who is a national of one of the countries enumerated in 8 CFR 217. The airline can provide you with the current list of eligible countries. Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. USE ENGLISH This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 15) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). The reverse side of this form must be signed and dated. Children under the age of fourteen must have their form signed by a parent or Itemguardian.9If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space. Record

Dorsiﬂexion: With heel on ﬂoor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

CROSSWORD IF YOU FILL IN THE CROSSWORD PLEASE TAKE THE MAGAZINE WITH YOU SO IT’S REPLACED. // ANSWERS FOUND ON P. 59 ACROSS 1. The reserve players on a team 6. Poison plant 11. Outdated 14. “What are the ?” 18. Be crazy about 19. Scoundrel 20. Pub purchase 22. Support, with “up” 23. Challenger 24. Roswell crash victim, supposedly 25. Many miles off 26. Smidgen 27. Snail mail requirement 28. Perfect rating 29. It's hard to believe 31. Open-mouthed 33. Day to remember 35. Azria 36. Losing proposition? 37. Flora 41. A razor 44. Cast away 48. Come to light 49. Self center 50. Leg up 52. Pigeon sound 53. Mah-jongg piece 54. Stage hog 55. “Yes, !” 56. Baby’s toy 59. Country album? 61. Teaching 63. Practice 64. Hirsute 66. Coffee 67. Trim 68. Way out 71. Welcome 72. Snoozer 74. Milk purchase 75. Delivery vehicle 76. Kind of cake 77. Power glitch 78. Camper’s supply 80. Third of eight 85. Sign of affection 87. Feverish 88. Night before 89. In the buff 90. “We Family” 91. Sushi staple 93. King Kong, e.g. 94. Bay wreath 96. Early 99. Off-color 102. Put on a pedestal 103. An Inconvenient Truth presenter 104. Goose egg 105. Armor plate 107. Speak at length 109. “The played on” 111. Grp. concerned with law 112. Milk source 117. Mediocre 118. Exploiter 120. Steel girder 122. Superman player 123. Declare 124. Sir’s partner 125. Snare 126. In-box contents 127. Formally surrender 128. Like some smiles 129. Lost cause 130. Wheeled camera mount DOWN 1. Night clubs 2. Clean up someone else's writing 3. Exploding star 4. Study for ﬁnals 5. Serving 6. Winter sports equipment 7. Except if 8. Primary 9. Fifth, e.g.: Abbr. 10. Fractional monetary unit of Brazil 11. Australian gem export 12. “That's 13. Chain letters? 14. Narcotic 15. Plummet 16. Shower with love 17. Jacuzzi 21. A workout guide 30. Terminate 32. Salon supply 34. Stain 35. Molten rock 36. Grooved on 37. carotene 38. Fail to mention 39. Be a snitch 40. Geometry calculation 42. Foolhardy 43. Have sovereign power 45. On the go 46. Hair curler 47. Yuletide 51. Like some wines 54. Roll call reply 55. Database command 57. Hang on 58. Animal catcher 60. Portions 61. Babe, e.g. 62. Bat excrement 65. Kitchen pest 67. “Understand?” 68. Rigidly conventional or old-fashioned 69. Tank top? 70. Storm 71. Dirt or soil 72. Right-minded 73. Strong cleaner 75. Type of consonant 76. Tear down so as to make ﬂat with the ground 77. Sign of healing 78. Relations 79. Floral leaf 81. Border on 82. Not common 83. Peach or beech 84. Bridge site 86. Chest protector 92. Bring into play 93. Tolerating 94. Hawaiian garland 95. Made certain of BRUCEGREGBYCROSSWORDPUZZLESPUZPUZ©97. Give the cold shoulder 98. Jersey call 100. Bed-and-breakfast 101. Knock down 106. Player 107. Wander 108. Not new 109. Tolerate 110. brat 111. Quite a stretch 113. Floor model 114. Bargain 115. Black hearted 116. Bank (on) 117. Small pouch 119. Perceive by sight 121. Stadium cry 124 JULY 2010 | UNITED .COM IN THE WORKSHOP ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLD

Visit: www.greatsteakofna.com The last of the operatorsindependents.greatTheowner/whogivenotonlyfinebeefbuttheirheartsaswell. The Independent Retail Cattleman’s Association 557Mt.PleasantRoad KingstonSprings, TN37082 info@greatsteakofna.com Malone’s LEXINGTON, KY....................859.335.6500 Proprietors: Brian McCarty & Bruce www.malonesrestaurant.comDrake Metropolitan Grill SEATTLE, WA.........................206.624.3287 Proprietor: Ron www.themetropolitangrill.comCohn Gene & Georgetti CHICAGO, Proprietors:IL.........................312.527.3718Tony&MarionDurpettiwww.geneandgeorgetti.com St. Elmo Steak House INDIANAPOLIS, IN.................317.635.0636 Proprietors: Steve Huse & Craig Huse www.stelmos.com III Forks DALLAS, Proprietor:JACKSONVILLE,Proprietor:TX............................972.267.1776ChrisVogeliFL................904.928.9277CurtisOsmondwww.iiiforks.com Manny’s Proprietors:MINNEAPOLIS,MN................612.339.9900PhilRoberts,PeterMihajlov&KevinKuesterwww.mannyssteakhouse.com Grill 225 CHARLESTON, SC................843.266.4222 Proprietor: Nick Palassis Executive Chef: Demetre www.grill225.comCastanas Benjamin Steak House NEW YORK, NY ..................212.297.9177 Proprietor: Benjamin Prelvukaj Chef: Arturowww.benjaminsteakhouse.comMcLeod McKendrick’s Steak House ATLANTA, Proprietors:GA.......................770.512.8888Claudia&DougMcKendrick,RickCrowewww.mckendricks.com Nationwide Coin & Bullion Reserve announces the ﬁnal release of 2,500 Congressionally authorized, fully backed by the U.S. Government, completely free of dealer markup, $5 Gold Eagles, at the incredible price of $138.00 each. ✓ Gold has soared over 500% in last 10 years ✓ Experts predict $5,000 oz Gold ✓ Economic turmoil and threats of terrorism plague the Nation ✓ U.S .Dollar declines as Feds print more money ✓ Gold is a tremendous hedge against inﬂation ✓ Special arrangements now available for orders of $25,000 and more ✓ $25,000 Gold investment could be worth $125,000 in the near future Only 2,500 coins available. Hurry, do not wait. This at cost offer will sell out immediately. Order now to avoid disappointment Call NOW 24 hrs a day/seven days a week. Vault # UAH – 10602 Min order 5 coins –Max 10 coins $138.00 877-817-1220ea. TOP 7 REASONS TO OWN GOLD NOW U. S.GOLDGOVERNMENTatCOST

THE NUMBERS GAME // BY REIKO MCLAUGHLIN SUDOKU EASY MEDIUM MEDIUM HARD 1. 2. 3. 4. 126 JULY 2010 | UNITED.COM PUZZLESPUZPUZ©SUDOKUANSWERS 1. 2. 3. 4. for Windows® and Mac OS® $149$199Exclusive United Hemispheres Magazine Offer at www.irislink.com/united Scan anything anywhere with no string attached... literally! Wor Worlld d ld P Pre Prre remimie miieere re

IT’S JUST LUNCH has professional dating specialists just like Betty all around the world. Call us and discover how we can help you create a more rewarding dating life today. Visit ITSJUSTLUNCH.COM or call 1.800.335.8624Real People. Real Dates.

Singapore

One quality that always ranks high on the list is confidence. Many of us describe ourselves as confident, but are we really confident on a first date? Most likely, the answer is no, as dating is the one arena that tests our egos and levels the playing field for all, whether you are 21 or 60. I often tell my clients to take a deep breath, relax and just have fun with the process! What do you tell your clients before they go out? As a first-date specialist, I never want to hear from a client that a date was “nice.” A first date should be fun and exciting! It doesn’t mean that the two of you are going to ride off into the sunset, but it does mean that you are going to put your best foot forward and give the date 100% of your authentic self — the self your circle of friends and family see.

Our clients understand that it makes sense to consult an expert to best optimize their dating life. So, yes, we really do function as wing-women, offering detailed introductions to help eliminate some of the stress that accompanies ﬁrst dates. What are singles looking for on a ﬁrst date these days?

It’s womanownyourhavinglikeverywingAlabama • Arizona • Arkansas • California • Colorado • Connecticut • Delaware • Florida • Georgia • Idaho • Illinois • Indiana • Iowa • Kansas • Kentucky • Louisiana • Maine • Maryland • Massachusetts • Michigan • Minnesota • Mississippi • Missouri • Nebraska • Nevada • New Jersey • New Mexico • New York • North Carolina • Ohio • Oklahoma • Oregon • Pennsylvania • Rhode Island • South Carolina • Tennessee • Texas • Utah • Virginia • Washington • Washington DC • Wisconsin • Canada • Ireland • Australia • Thailand •

Sure. Dating is complicated, especially for busy professionals, but it’s not calculus. Finding the right time and place to meet compatible people can be a challenge to navigate. The bar scene is just that: a scene. And having family and friends set you up doesn’t really work for most people. Even if you are introduced to someone, the pressure is there to ask them out — and what do you really have in common with them? So what are singles doing about it, and why do they come to you?

We sat down with It’s Just Lunch Dating Specialist Betty Sinclair, Seattle, WA, to discuss a twist on a popular element in the dating scene: the person who has the savvy to provide singles advice on how to meet people — the “wing-woman.” Betty shines some light on today’s dating scene and what singles need to consider to be successful. Can you give us a 30,000 foot snapshot of the dating scene today?

Sara DarlingPJ OsgoodAmy Brinkman

MARKETPLACE

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2010 129 Landing at the Airport? Call us upon arrival. We have a car waiting for you! Rates startingManhattantoat FROM $JFK46 FROM Newark$46 FROM LaGuardia$31 *Not Including Tolls & Gratuity “Best ride in town...” – New York Magazine CAR & LIMOUSINE SERVICE Telephone 212.777.7777 Toll Free 800.777.8888 212.777.7777 www.dial7.com$5OFF FROM/TO THE AIRPORT KEYUN07101CODEOne Coupon per Trip Limited Time Offer Exp. 12/15/10 Mention this keycode when booking your next ride to receive discount Snorkel® HotTubs ClassicWoodHotTub NaturalWoodHeat SnorkeltubsseeninMGM’s “HotTubTimeMachine”” CallTollFree 1-800-962-6208 Dept.HE10 Orvisitwww.snorkel.com • Stillwater&cracklingfire-a deliciously relaxingexperience • Enjoywood-firedhottubbinganywhereno electricityrequired • TherapyJetsavailablewithwoodheat systems (electricityrequired) • Fingertip,digitalcontrolGasor Electric heatedtubsalsoavailable • Classicdesigniseasytoassemble, available inmanysizes Endlm Imagine being able to swim in your backyard, year-round, no matter what the weather. Or watch your kids or grandkids play in the perfect temperature water. Well you can with an H2X premium swim spa. The H2X line of swim spas are the best selling in the WORLD. They are incanaffordablesurprisinglyandbeinstalledlessthanaday! For a free DVD or to ﬁnd the dealer nearest you go to www.H2Xswimspa.com MasterSpas.com

RELAX AND ENJOY YOUR FLIGHT

United’s distinguished Master Sommelier

enjoy »

With a food philosophy centered around contemporary American cuisine and culinary partnerships which include world renowned Chef Charlie Trotter and restaurant favorite Trader Vic’s, United offers traditional dishes with a modern twist, while also providing regional and ethnic items. classic favorites and modern selections created especially for you.

Enjoy

premium offerings

This month Doug talks about our current domestic red wine offering … Australian Shiraz has been one of the success stories of winedom’s last quarter century, but not all Aussie Shiraz is the same. At United, we offer embraced Cheviot Bridge Shiraz because it’s not like so many of the jammy fruit bombs that have represented that Shiraz grape when it’s grown Down Under. Instead of being a high alcohol behemoth, Cheviot Bridge is tangy, juicy and balanced, and instead of clobbering you with alcohol, it’s a gentler beast that is far more food friendly.

THE SALMON TRIO (pictured here)

What’s New Now on all North American flights, premium customers can enjoy a hot beverage in our new, blue mugs.

Currently being served as a United First Class® appetizer on flights from Chicago to Tokyo, London and Frankfurt

Turn the page to

Doug Frost

Delicious preservative free blend of 100% mixed fruits and berries.

SALAD $ 9

CHEESE TRAY $ 6

Tender smoked turkey topped with crisp romaine lettuce and sundried tomato aioli sauce on multigrain brea d, accompanied by Kettle Classics WRAP $ 9

Specially selected cheeses including monterey jack, havarti dill and cheddar, dried cranberries, almonds and assorted Pepperidge Farm crackers.

Grilled chicken, red and yellow bell pepper strips, shredded parmesan cheese on a bed of crisp romaine lettuce, served with classic caesar dressing and croutons on the side.

CROISSANT $ 5

Your feedback is welcomed via ualsurvey.com w ithin seven days of your flight. United, Choice Menu, and EasyPurchase are trademarks of United. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. We apologize if your selection is not available on today’s ﬂight.

ON FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS DEPARTING BEFORE 10 AM AND YOGURT PARFAIT WRAP ce with Choice Menu

THAI CHICKEN

Flavorful ham and swiss cheese on a croissant with dijonnaise sauce

Low fat vanilla yogurt served with fruit and a side of granola.

PARFAIT $ 5

ABOARD!WELCOME

We are pleased to enhance your in-flight experience with Choice Menu options available for purchase on most North American flights, excluding Again this month, we bring you Chocolove.® Made in Boulder, CO of fine Belgian Chocolate, each milk or dark bar is produced in small batches for taste rivaling that of the finest European chocolatiers. So, savor a cocktail, indulge in a snack or save time by having your meal onboard. Whatever your choice, thank you for flying United and please

CHOCOLATE BAR $ 3

$ 9

Gourmet chocolate available in either creamy Milk or intense Dark. ON FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS DEPARTING BETWEEN 10 AM -8 PM SMOOTHIE $ 3

FRUIT

Grilled chicken breast, romaine lettuce, julienned carrots, red and yellow bell pepper strips and Thai aioli sauce wrapped in a tortilla, accompanied by Kettle Classics potato chips.

Beverage Service is available on most United ﬂights. While we try to ensure that you always receive your ﬁrst choice, actual selections may vary according to availability, class of service or destination. NON-ALCOHOLIC COMP LIMENTARY • So ft Drinks • Tonic Water • Seltzer Water • Spring Water • Starbucks Regular and Decaffeinated Coffees ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES Complimentary in United Business ® and United First.® Priced as shown in United Economy.® WINES • R edwood Creek 2007 California Cabernet Sauvignon $6 • Redwood Creek 2007 California Chardonnay $6 Domestic flights only: • Che viot Bridge 2008 Australian Shiraz $7 • Cheviot Bridge 2008 Australian Chardonnay $7 Domestic United Business and United First ma y also choose: • Re x Goliath Chardonnay 2008 California • Ken Forrester Petit Chenin Blanc 2009 Stellenbosch • Cheviot Bridge Shiraz 2008 Southeastern Australia • Callia Alta Malbec 2008 Argentina Refer to printed menus for additional selections where applicable. BEER, COCKTAILS, SPIRITS, LIQUEURS BEER • Miller Lite $6 • Miller Genuine Draft $6 • Heineken $7 PREMIUM COCKTAIL • Trader Vic’s Mai Tai $8 (to/from Hawaii only) SPIRITS • Absolut Vodka $6 (international flights only) • Bacardi Rum $6 • Canadian Club Reserve Whisky $6 • Chivas Regal Scotch $6 (international flights only) • Dewar’s White Label Scotch $6 (domestic flights only) • Finlandia Vodka $6 (domestic flights only) • Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey $6 • Jim Beam Black Bourbon Whiskey $6 • Tanqueray Gin $6 LIQUEURS • Bailey’s Irish Cream $6 • C ourvoisier VSOP Cognac $6 • Di Saronno Amaretto $6 (international flights only) • Kahlúa $6 Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. By FAA rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by flight attendants may be consumed onboard. EasyPurchasePAYMENT Only credit/debit cards are accepted. CLASSIC $ 6 Kettle Backyard BBQ Chips • Oreo Cookies • Jelly Belly Gourmet J elly Beans • Pepperidge Farm Goldfish Crackers • Sparrer Bee f Salami • Gourmet Cheddar Cheese Spread • Pepperidge Farm Crackers LUXE $ 7 Rondelé Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread • Pepperidge Farm Crackers • Food Should Taste Good Multigrain Tortilla Chips • Wild Garden Hummus Dip • Oloves Mediterranean or Vi naigrette Olives • Real Torino Sesame Breadsticks • Asher’s Dark Chocolate Pretzel EAT FOR GOOD $ 7* * $1 donated to Feeding America® Bumble Bee Lemon & Pepper Tuna Medley • Assorted Pepperidge Farm Crackers • Musselman’s Apple Sauce • Old Colony Chocolate Chunk Brownie Actual contents may vary slightly. SNACKBOXES AVAILABLE ALL DAY ON FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS BEVERAGES RELAX WITH YOUR FAVORITE DRINK • Milk • Tea • Assorted Fruit Juices • Bloody Mary Mix

134 JULY 2010 | UNITED.COM I got lost a couple hundred times grace.”isnowbuyingbeforeone,butmyGPSmysaving MIKE STAHLSCHMIDT / 39 / CEO, Sideline Sports WHY I’M TRAVELING / I’m off to Philadelphia for a GT road race at the New Jersey Mortorsports Park. I run a niche photo agency that covers motorsports and soccer all around the world. I usually work in other countries because Americans just aren’t interested in those sports. NEVER LEAVE HOME WITHOUT IT My GPS. I got lost a couple hundred times before buying one, but now my GPS is my saving grace everywhere I go. WINDOW OR AISLE? / I’m six-foot-eight, so an aisle seat is really important and United’s extra legroom in Economy Plus is great. When you’re as big as I am, it’s miserable to get stuck in a cramped seat. BY ADAM K. RAYMOND PHOTOGRAPH BY SPENCER HEYFRON GETTING TO KNOW YOU in transit “

CELEBRATE THE FREEDOM OF SUMMER WITH RED LION HOTELS! ENJOY ROARINGOURSTARTBREAKFASTBUFFETFROM$4.95*

RECEIVE A FREE NIGHT NOW, A FREE NIGHT LATER, FREE BREAKFAST FOR CHILDREN 10 AND UNDER AND DOUBLE AWARD MILES!

The FREEdom of Summer requires a minimum three or four night stay and may only be booked through redlion.com. Valid for stays between June 1, 2010 and September 4, 2010 and cannot be combined with other offers or promotions, subject to availability and is void where prohibited by law. Roaring Start Breakfast Buffet pricing may vary by property and non-overnight guests. Red Lion Hotels Corporation reserves the right to amend, revise, supplement, suspend or discontinue this promotional offer at any time in its sole discretion and without prior notice. Award miles accrued, awards issued and bonus offers are subject to the rules of the United Mileage Plus program. United, its subsidiaries, affiliates and agents are not responsible for any products and services of other participating companies and partners. Please allow 6 to 8 weeks after completed qualifying activity for bonus award miles to be posted to your Mileage Plus account. The Mileage Plus program, including accruals, awards and bonus award miles offers, is subject to change without notice. Taxes and fees related to award travel are the responsibility of the passenger. United and Mileage Plus are registered service marks. United and Mileage Plus are registered trademarks of United Air Lines, Inc. For complete details about the Mileage Plus program, visit www.united.com. To earn Mileage Plus award miles, enrollment in the Red Lion R&R Club is required. The earning preference must be set to air award miles with United Mileage Plus. Existing Red Lion R&R Club members must update the earning preference to United Mileage Plus. 4859/0610 hffo Visit redlion.com and use promo code: SUMMLS for this offer. redlion.com

With Red Lion’s FREEdom of summer promotion, you don’t have to choose whether to enjoy your free night now or later – you can do both! This summer, receive the third or fourth night free. Plus, receive an additional free night to use for a future stay. Red Lion Hotels features great locations, including Anaheim, Portland, Seattle and Denver, near all sorts of fun summer activities like wine tasting, river rafting, theme parks and more. Plus, when you’re not enjoying the great outdoors, take advantage of amenities like swimming pools, restaurants and lounges and free high-speed wireless Internet access. This summer, experience the FREEdom of Red Lion Hotels. Just another way we make your STAY COMFORTABLE ® .

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*Terms and Conditions:

United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine July 2010

Articles inside

In Transit Who’s sitting next to you?

Artifact A souvenir from the fi eld

Crossword and sudoku

Sports A lifetime swimming-phobe fi nally takes the plunge.

Industry A young CEO brings the fun back to Wham-O toys.

Food & Drink There’s something intoxicating about winemaker Randall Grahm.

Tech Navigate the world of GPS technology.

Voices Behind the scenes at United

Hero Prosper Ndabishuriye works to rebuild war-torn Burundi house by house.

Style Veuve Clicquot helps the jet set catch up on beauty sleep.

Goods

The Big Ten Bret Easton Ellis, Lady Gaga and what else to watch, read and listen to this month

Connections United.com is better than ever.

Whirlwind Five hours in Vancouver

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