United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine December 2010 by Ahmed Aamir

PARADISE FOUND STRETCHING OUT ON THE WORLD’S BEST BEACHES THREE PERFECT DAYS: SÃO PAULO ROLLER DERBY THE RACE TO BUILD THE FASTEST ROLLER COASTER THE HEMI Q&A DIRECTOR JUDD APATOW SPINS COMEDY GOLD HEMISPHERES PLUS: WOLFGANG PUCK ON THE SLOPES, THE AUDI R8 SPYDER ON THE STREETS AND THE AMAZING DANCING DOG OF SANTIAGO

GuardianAngel Wellendorff-Boutique San Francisco at Shreve & Co., 200 Post Street, San Francisco, tel. 415.860-4010. For further details or how to find a Wellendorff jeweller near you, please contact Wellendorff, tel. 801-556.5206 or e-mail: usa@wellendorff.com A letter from a Wellendorff connoisseur. We were surprised, moved and inspired... to create the new Ring of the Year 2011 "Gold Angel".A limited and numbered edition for only 211 women around the world.

DearWellendorfffamily,

Sincerely yours, Riga, June 2010

This is a story about what happened to the Wellendorff jewellery I was given as a present. I associate my beautiful piece of Wellendorff jewellery with some very fond memories. When I received this piece I felt that someone wanted to make me really happy. I wanted to add an angel to the necklace, which would be a kind of guardian angel for me. Unfortunately there was a terrible fire in our house at the end of February 2010. As everything happened so quickly, we first set about rescuing the documents, paintings and clothing. My jewellery was in a wooden box. When I was about to go into the room to get the box there was so much smoke that I realized I must not go any further. The next day the entire set of jewellery was found. The jewellery had miraculously retained its unique charm, although it had been caught in the fire that burned for more than 12 hours before it was fully extinguished. After this experience the jewellery has taken on a completely different meaning for me, because it proves that miracles do happen. I had not believed that I would ever see any of it again, and of all the precious objects I used to have, only the Wellendorff necklace with the little angel survived the fire. The day after the fire we realized that we must see it as a lesson. During these difficult times I really admired my partner for being so manly and strong-willed. He wouldn’t give up and took charge of everything in such a way that at his side I never despaired or felt deeply vulnerable. He gave me a wonderful sense of security. I dedicate this personal story to the Wellendorff family, whom I greatly admire and respect.

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American ﬁnancier Malcolm Forbes once called Laucala heaven on earth. With acres of palm trees, white sand and rugged peaks, it’s easy to see why. PARADISE FOUND | P. 68 Dec. contents UNITED.COM | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM SIMONSJEREMYBYPHOTOGRAPH Laucala Island, Fiji YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY ROLLER DERBY A look at the white-knuckle race to create the world’s fastest roller coaster. BY STEPHAN TALTY 78 THREE PERFECT DAYS: SÃO PAULO The biggest city in South America is both cosmopolitan and surprisingly intimate. BY STEPHAN TALTY 82 THE HEMI Q&A: JUDD APATOW The king of modern comedy talks about his merry band of freaks and geeks. BY DAVID CARR 64 PARADISE FOUND Don’t forget the sunscreen at Fiji’s Laucala Island and a host of other glamorous, secluded beaches around the world. 68

UNITED.COM | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM 40 10 Comments 13 CEO Letter A word from Jeff Smisek. 14 Voices A message to flyers. 16 Connections What’s new at United. 18 Wish You Were Here DISPATCHES 21 Notes From All Over Carrie, the famous dancing dog of Santiago, Chile, does the merengue on Letterman; dusty critters get a bath at the Harvard Museum of Natural History in Cambridge, Massachusetts; Jones Family Farm in Huron, Ohio, grows vegetables you’ve only dreamed of; in Budapest, keeping the trains running on time is child’s play; and historians work to preserve Amsterdam’s fallen Anne Frank Tree. 48 Wheels The Audi R8 Spyder V10 stretches its legs in San Diego’s foothills. BY MIKE GUY 50 Sports The greens of Kauai entice a former golfer back to the tee. BY TOM CHIARELLA 55 Industry The Swiss company that brought “toning” shoes to the U.S.—and rocked the footwear market. BY ALYSSA GIACOBBE 59 Food & Drink You don’t have to be a top chef to use the sous vide technique; all it takes is expensive equipment and a ton of patience. BY ADAM BAER 63 Artifact A souvenir from the field. PLAY 101 Movies and television 108 Route Maps and Terminal Diagrams 120 Audio programming 124 Crossword and Sudoku 138 Beverages & Food 142 In Transit Who’s sitting next to you? (LEFT),L.A.PHOTOOFSHAW/COURTESYMARKBYPHOTOGRAPHS (RIGHT)PROFESSIONALVIDESOUSOFBERGONIA/COURTESYLINDABY Mark Shaw’s Vanity Fair Sheer Gown (1953), at Photo L.A. 27 Filet, sous vide–style. 59 COVER IMAGE Jacqui Oakley // jacquioakley.com WRITE TO US: Editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE 68 Jay St., Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES For a free subscription to our monthly eMag and to access recent issues, go to HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMFACEBOOK.COM/UNITEDHEMISPHERES DIRECTIONS 27 News Where to stay, what to see, when to go. 33 Goods 37 Hero Beth Doane’s Rain Tees bring relief to the Amazon. BY LAYLA SCHLACK 38 Whirlwind Five hours in Sydney. CULTURE 41 Style High fashion is woven into the fiber of TSE Cashmere. BY LAYLA SCHLACK 43 The Big Ten Composer Danny Elfman, Anne Rice and what else to watch, read and listen to this month. 46 Whereabouts Wolfgang Puck takes a break from philanthropy in Ethiopia to ski in Colorado. BY SARAH HORNE

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“On a recent United premium service ﬂight from LAX to JFK, I was reading the September Hemispheres and stumbled upon ‘Three Perfect Days in Paris,’ which was well timed, since I was heading out to Paris the following week,” he writes.

JOSH COCHRAN The onetime Print magazine “New Visual Artist (20 under 30)” winner recently painted an Eames chair for Herman Miller and designed a cover for Penguin Books. Of roller coasters (“Roller Derby,” page 78), he says, “Space Mountain at Disneyland is my alltime favorite.”

CHRISTINA COUCH The freelance writer and global nomad moves to a different city every three months or so. Her writing has appeared in Wired, The Onion AV Club and Time Out Chicago. “I lived in Sydney (“Whirlwind,” page 38) for about four months,” she says. “The physical beauty is astounding.”

“I read the sidebar about Wendy Lyn’s food tours around Paris, and thanks to inﬂight internet I went ahead and emailed Wendy to see if she could ﬁt me in for a tour when we got there. She responded seconds later, and we worked out a food tour before I landed at JFK!” Now that’s a tasty story.

Over at hemispheresmagazine. com, commenter Louise Steinbach offered her own Three Perfect Days in Los Angeles (October): “A day at the Getty, night in Hollywood; a morning and afternoon hiking in Runyon Canyon, and a night in Hollywood. Then a whole day and night in Malibu!” Sounds like fun, Louise; we’ll travel with you anytime. NY 11201

? Contributors 10 FERT/PICTURETANKBRUNOBYPHOTOGRAPH

DECEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM comments EDITOR IN CHIEF Mike Guy EXECUTIVE EDITOR Joe Keohane SENIOR EDITOR Layla Schlack ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jacqueline Detwiler ART DIRECTOR Christine Bower-Wright DESIGNER Ellie Clayman PHOTO EDITOR Erin Giunta CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jane Black, Jason Gay, Alyssa Giacobbe, Sarah Horne, Edward Lewine, Grant Stoddard, Matthew Thompson CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Claire Benoist, Sasha Nialla, Graham Roumieu, Oliver Jeffers EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR Michael Keating U.S. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Orion Ray-Jones INK PUBLISHING, 68 Jay Street, Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 TEL: +1 347-294-1220 FAX: +1 editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com917-591-6247 hemispheresmagazine.com WEBMASTER Salah Lababidi ADVERTISING U.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Stephen Andrews ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Cindy Taylor ADVERTISING SALES MANAGERS David Levy, Danny Litton, David Low N.E. ACCOUNT MANAGERS Marcus Guest, Brian McLaughlin, Scott Stone AUTOMOTIVE ACCOUNT MANAGER Carl Mischka LOS ANGELES MANAGER Dorie Leo MIDWEST MANAGER Stu Opfer HAWAII TERRITORY MANAGER Robert Wiegand LATIN AMERICA SALES MANAGER Alejandro Salas PRODUCTION MANAGER Joe Massey TEL: +1 PRODUCTION678-553-8091CONTROLLERS Grace Dinwiddie, Stacy Willis MARKETING AND EVENTS MANAGER Nikkole Wyrick Ink Publishing (sales), Capital Building, 255 East Paces Ferry Road, Suite 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 TEL: +1 888-864-1733 FAX: +1 917-591-6247 INK PUBLISHING CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink Publishing. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither United, its subsidiaries nor afﬁliates guarantees the accuracy, completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a professional for tax and investment advice. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines. HEMISPHERES

WHAT DO YOU THINK? WRITE TO US! Editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE 68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn,

TOM CHIARELLA A visiting professor of creative writing at DePaw University and writer-at-large for Esquire, Chiarella has had a lifelong affair with golf (as chronicled in “Golf: A Love Story,” page 50). “I haven’t met a golf course that hasn’t shown me at least some affection,” he says. “That keeps me coming back.”

Timing Is Everything

It’s always fun to read “Three Perfect Days,” but we like it best when the readers are actually heading to the featured destination. That was the case for Rob Peralta.

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Clearly refined.

I like all the small details Like the sushi in the LA lounge Like collecting miles on one card Like my bags magically arriving first I’ve earned it. Simon Woodroffe OBE, founder of YO! Company and Star Alliance Gold staralliance.comStatus

PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER UNITED AIRLINES

WELCOME ABOARD, and on behalf of my more than 80,000 coworkers, thanks for choosing United Airlines for your flight today. On October 1, 2010, Continental Airlines merged with a subsidiary of UAL Corp, and Continental and United Airlines became subsidiaries of the same holding company, United Continental Holdings, Inc. Working together, we are creating the world’s leading airline. While it will take over a year for us to obtain a single operating certificate from the Federal Aviation Administration so we can operate as one airline, we’re already working hard on implementing our integration plan to bring the benefits to you as quickly as Forpossible.example, Mileage Plus and OnePass elite members now enjoy preferred seating and upgrades on both carriers’ aircraft, and Red Carpet Club members and guests now enjoy complimentary alcoholic beverages and wireless access. We will announce many more benefits for you over the comingWe’remonths.alsoimproving your travel experience by giving you more flight options. We already offer the best network in the world. With the increased traffic flows from our merger, we will also add new routes between our hubs and communities around the globe. Most importantly, we’re focused on creating a working-together culture of dignity, respect, and direct, open and honest communication among our coworkers and you, our customers. This culture will result in great customer service. The new United will be an airline that my coworkers want to work for, and that you will want to fly. I ask your patience as we meld these two great airlines together, but I’m confident you will like the result when we’re done.

On behalf of the entire team at the new United, welcome aboard, and thanks for ﬂying with us today. ceo letter

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2010

The New United

McDonald’s typical day begins early. “I get up at 3:15 a.m. and exercise,” he says. “Then I call into our operations center and get an update on the previous day’s performance. That means on-time arrivals and any other issues we might have had.” He then reviews the operations forecast for the day. His team briefs him on weather reports from O’Hare and around the world, and makes any necessary adjustments to ensure the ﬂeet stays ahead of the forecast. He also spends a considerable amount of time traveling, meeting with employees and working to ensure a seamless integration of the two airlines’ operations.

DECEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM 14

Peter ScottOperationsPresidentwithday’sdiscussesMcDonaldtheoperationsSeniorViceofAirportDolan.

CLEAN, SAFE AND RELIABLE. These are the words that United lives by on a daily“That’sbasis.our mantra in operations,” says United’s chief operations officer Peter McDonald from his office at United headquarters in Chicago. “These are the things that the operations team and I focus on delivering every single day.” Following the merger of United and Continental, McDonald oversees operations, and his team is minding everything from airport operations and maintenance, to safety and even watching, and planning, for the weather across the airline’s 10 hubs. McDonald was born and raised on the northwest side of Chicago. He attended Notre Dame High School and Judson College and took his first job in the airline industry as a ramp serviceman at O’Hare International Airport. It was 1969, and he was 18 years old. In the decades that followed, he climbed from supervisor to manager to senior vice president. “I’ve worked at O’Hare, Denver, San Francisco and LAX—all for United,” he says. In July 2010, McDonald was named chief operations officer of the new United—a company that’s nearly double the size, based on departures, it was before its merger with Continental Airlines.

UNITED’S NEW CHIEF OPERATIONS OFFICER’S FOCUS IS CLEAR: CLEAN, SAFE, RELIABLE. // BY MIKE GUY

Operating System voices

McDonald has traveled to every combined hub and some of the smaller destinations in the new network, and he has found that the coworkers from both United and Continental are truly excited about the opportunities this merger brings.

From McDonald’s perspective, the merger of United and Continental is going to create the best airline in the world, and it all starts with the people. “The key to my job is having highly effective individuals handling various aspects of the operations,” he says. “I have very seasoned executives running flight operations, inflight and system operations control, and safety. And we have the benefit of very strong executive teams from both United and“BringingContinental.together the best of both worlds goes well beyond enhancing the quality of the workforce,” McDonald says. “We will take the best practices from each airline to create a combination that is stronger in a broader array of areas,” he says. For instance, United has more widebody aircraft than Continental. The combined airline can optimize the deployment of the aircraft so that each route is matched with precisely the right plane. Also, by combining United and Continental’s maintenance networks, the airline will be leveraging those maintenance resources to work more efficiently on the aircraft, fixing items such as reading lights and coffee makers to ensure a better experience for our customers and for coworkers inflight. The merger of United and Continental will not change the airlines’ focus on minimizing delays and cancellations—no mean feat considering that on October 1, 2010, when the merger was made official, the combined United/Continental was already leading the industry.

“At the time the merger closed, both airlines were running a ninetynine-plus percent completion schedule,” McDonald says. “That means that over the course of a day we canceled only one ﬂight out of a hundred, which is a credit to my coworkers who do great work getting our customers to their destinations on time.”

More information about the United-Continental merger is available at united.com.

“The fact is, we had a strong network before, but having a New York hub and Latin American presence with Continental, and combining it with United’s Asian presence—well, that’s a powerhouse,” he says. “Our people love that. They’re excited to take those strengths and deliver the highest quality service in the world. Being number one is a great motivator.”

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DE CEMBER 2010 15

“I just returned from our Cleveland hub, where we built a new hangar and have a catering operation,” he says. “Then this evening I’ll head to London to spend time with our Continental operations people, and brief our team in Europe about integration. It’s a great opportunity for me to listen to my coworkers and discuss our plans with them about how we are creating the world’s leading airline.”

“We will take the best practices from each airline to create a combination that’s stronger in a broader array of areas,” COO Peter McDonald says.

United’s hubs in Los Angeles and San Francisco, as well as Chicago and Washington, D.C., along with Continental’s hubs in Houston and New York, provide excellent jumping off points to major cities like Beijing, Osaka, Tokyo and Seoul and allow United to connect travelers with Taipei and Guangzhou, among many other destinations that ANA serves. Connection to such destinations will provide travelers with more seamless journeys throughout the Paciﬁc.

Much of United’s strategy since cofounding the Star Alliance in 1997 has focused on working with worldclass airlines such as ANA to open up new markets and allow for beneﬁts such as one-stop ticketing, easier upgrades and enhanced recognition of elite customers across all Star Alliance partners.

ON OCTOBER 25, 2010, years of effort to liberalize policies regulating air service between the United States and Japan came to fruition as the two nations signed a historic Open Skies Air Services Agreement. While the United name has long been familiar to travelers in Japan, the open skies agreement will allow for new air services between the two countries and offer customers greater choices when flying throughout the Pacific region. This milestone comes as United awaits final approval from the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) for a joint application for antitrust immunity between United, Continental and our fellow Star Alliance member All Nippon Airways (ANA). With final DOT approval, the three airlines will be able to coordinate flight schedules and sales and marketing activities, offering our customers more scheduling and pricing options and access to ANA’s extensive Asian network.

Opening the Skies

DECEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM 16 connections

SERVICESCREATIVEAIRLINESUNITEDBYPHOTOGRAPHS

CHARTING A SMOOTHER PATH ACROSS THE PACIFIC.

We are now one step closer to achieving this goal and making your path across the Paciﬁc as smooth as possible.

In this season of hope—when you want your gifts to really matter— there’s one gift you can always count on to save the day. It will save the day when the next disaster strikes. When a neighbor’s house burns down. When someone needs lifesaving blood, or the comfort of a helping hand. It will turn heartbreak into hope. Hope. It’s the gift you give to the American Red Cross. Please donate today.

GIVE THE GIFT THAT SAVES THE DAY 1-800-RED CROSS redcross.org

18 wish you were here

ROYAL ICING // A frosty forest in the Alps. LINDENBERG, SWITZERLAND PHOTOLIBRARYBYPHOTOGRAPH

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IN A HOUSE ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF SANTIAGO , the music kicks in, and for the next three minutes Carrie and José Fuentes dance the cueca, Chile’s national dance. They circle each other, tap their feet to the beat, twirl and wave their handkerchiefs in choreographed unison. It’s hardly an unusual scene in this country, except for one thing: Carrie is a golden retriever.

Two years ago, one of José and Carrie’s elaborate dance routines—a merengue—was featured on Don Francisco Presenta, a Univision variety show. That seemed to be the extent of their fame, but then, this past September, the video suddenly went viral on the web. Fuentes woke up one day to ﬁnd his inbox full of emails from media outlets all over the world, including Late Night with David Letterman (they did the show in late September).

A DANCER’S UNLIKELY RISE TO BY ROUMIEU

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2010

FAME. ILLUSTRATIONS

21 NOTES FROM ALL OVER dispatches

New Tricks

So how do you teach a retriever to merengue? Easy, says Fuentes, a videographer with a background in education. When he brought Carrie home six years ago, he wanted to test the limits of canine intelligence. In no time, using little more than positive reinforcement, he had her turning on lights, closing doors and doing some limited dance moves, such as hopping and turning circles on her hind legs. By the time Carrie was two, Fuentes realized that while she could learn just about anything, he was running out of ideas. “I mentioned to my ex-wife that I didn’t know what else to teach Carrie,” he says. “Knowing how much I love to dance, she suggested I put all the movements Carrie already knew together into a routine.” It took them about two years to get it down cold.

GRAHAM

And what does his ex-wife, or his children or neighbors for that matter, think about a man spending so much time teaching a dog to dance? “We gradually built up to this, so no one was really surprised by it. It’s not like she just started dancing out of the blue; people were already used to seeing her do other tricks,” he says. “It was a natural progression.”—EMILY WILLIAMS CORNEJO SANTIAGO, CHILE

22 DECEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

One golden morning on his sprawling family farm in Huron, Ohio, Lee Jones—dressed in bib overalls and a bright red bow tie—is bantering about one of his favorite clients, Chicago-based celebrity chef Charlie Trotter. “Charlie called us and said, ‘I am so over-mescluned. Everybody in the world is doing mesclun now. I want something new. I want something so sexy it’s going to blow everybody away,’” Jones says. Jones’ specialty is growing sexy stuff. His family’s farm, the 225-acre Chef’s Garden, is where master chefs go for rare or specially bred produce—like feathery chives with purple seed pods clinging to them like raindrops, or pink asparagus as slender as a blade of grass.

The jerboa, which looks like a field mouse fitted with big ears and two rabbit feet, is in need of a cleaning. Inside a small room at Harvard University, a caretaker delicately runs a brush over its fur, sucking off any dirt with a specially filtered vacuum. Then he breaks out the Windex and Q-Tips and gets to work on the eyes.

CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS CREATURE

The Jones family ran a conventional farm until the 1980s, when rising interest rates and a devastating hailstorm forced them to scrap their old business plan and reinvent themselves. They established a complex of research greenhouses to experiment with heirloom seeds and pitched their unconventional produce to anyone who would listen. Soon enough, they were getting calls from the likes of Trotter and Alain Ducasse, both of whom requested charentais—an extra-sweet French melon—in the same year. To successfully grow the fruit, Jones’ harvesters had to remove all but one blossom on each plant by hand, so each melon would capture the entire plant’s sugar. It was worth the effort: The farm charged $65 a melon. These days, Chef’s Garden grows 600 varieties of herbs, edible ﬂowers and other strange and beautiful items, and Jones has lost none of his enthusiasm for the business.

“We do a cucumber that’s the size of a No. 2 pencil, with a blossom on it the size of a quarter,” he says. “Imagine a cucumber sorbet ﬁnished with a tiny cucumber and a yellow blossom on the end. How sexy is that?”

The cute biped, which likely passed away sometime in the late 19th century, is just one of many stuffed creatures currently being spruced up at Harvard’s Museum of Natural History. The museum may be part of one of the world’s dominant educational institutions, but it still proudly wears the safari hat of a Victorian-era preserve. From its collection of impossibly delicate glass ﬂowers to the now-extinct Tasmanian tiger, the place emits a distinct Teddy Roosevelt vibe, harkening to a time when the only way to see the world’s animals was if they were stuffed and mounted.

haddecades,mothballs.theyAsurprisinglymuseum,longtimeimmediatelyIMAXgetscalebynowopened,theareopenedlongestthespermworld’scanMammalinterpretation.”up-to-datenineteenththat,undergoinggraduallyarenovationshesays,“keepsthecenturyfeelwithresearchandTheGreatHall,whereyouseetheanimalwiththelargestbrain(thewhale)rightnexttoanimalwiththeworld’sneck(thegiraffe),lastyearfollowingmajorrenovation.Thisfall,renovatedAfricawingandthatlittlejerboaﬁndshimselfdwarfedahippo.“Thatsenseofissomethingyoucan’tfrommovies,orevenanscreen,”saysWerby.Thechangemoststrikingtodevoteesofthehowever,isthefreshsmell.coupleofyearsago,ﬁnallygotridoftheAfteralltheseitseems,theplacebeenpreservedenough. —BILLY BAKER dispatches

FEATURE

—LAURA PUTRE MoneySeed HURON, OHIO

Executive Director Elisabeth Werby says she doesn’t want it to stop there, though. The museum is

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Pomes, owner of the Anne Frank Tree, is sitting behind the desk in his real estate ofﬁce in Amsterdam. Back in August, he was here when he received a call from his neighbor telling him that the historic chestnut tree in his backyard had fallen down. Pomes thought it was a joke. “It wasn’t even that windy!” he says. Planted in the mid-19th century, the tree was mentioned three times in Anne Frank’s Diary of a Young Girl as a symbol of hope when she and her family were hiding from the Nazis in the back annex of a house at Prinsengracht 267. Pomes bought the house behind it in 1999. The fact that Anne Frank’s tree was in his new backyard had no bearing on his decision to buy it, he says, adding, “Actually, I don’t think the previous owner was even aware of the tree’s story.” Few were. The tree became world news only in 2007 after a study showed that it was rotting and needed to be cut down. Advocacy groups and neighbors raised a cry and demanded a second opinion. In early 2008, it was agreed that the tree could survive another few years with the aid of a supporting steel structure. By then it had its own website, a webcam and countless celebrity endorsers. Its chestnuts were listed on eBay. Over the last few years, the otherwise publicity-shy Pomes took a more active role in the tree’s preservation, feeling he needed “to protect it from any careless decisions.” After it fell, it was placed in a storage facility, and he is currently making arrangements to distribute parts of it to four major Jewish museums around the world. If there is anything left, he may give it to a handful of artists. Meanwhile, on the jagged stump in Pomes’ backyard, a sprout has recently appeared. The story continues…–STEVE KORVER Family Tree

AMSTERDAMBUDAPEST TRAIN SET

24 DECEMBER 2010 |

“Ladies and gentleman, the eleven o’clock train bound for Széchenyi-hegy will depart from Track One in ten minutes,” says the announcer at the Huvosvolgy train station, in a voice that is authoritative, if curiously high-pitched. Inside a small hall, passengers purchase fares from a bespectacled ticket seller whose head barely rises above the counter. They’re then directed to their seats by two diminutive individuals in matching navy blue uniforms and caps. For a few moments, visitors could be forgiven for wondering if they have wandered into some kind of Eastern Bloc Lilliput. In reality, they’re boarding the Gyermekvasut: Budapest’s Children’s Railway. Located high in the hills of the Hungarian capital, the 60-year-old, seven-mile Gyermekvasut is the largest scenic train line in the world operated almost entirely by children. Kids from 10 to 14 do (almost) all the jobs their adult counterparts would: conducting, granting engineers permission to start the trains, selling tickets, and pulling switches and signals. (Adults drive the trains, which can reach speeds of 12 miles per hour.)

Children’s railways were once commonplace in the Soviet Union. Leaders saw them as a good way to introduce youngsters to the world of work. There were 52 when the U.S.S.R. collapsed in the early 1990s; just a handful are still in operation. Competition to work on Budapest’s line is ﬁerce. Hundreds apply every year, and candidates must take a four-month course and pass a series of exams before they can join theOvercrew.the course of its 45-minute journey, the trolley-size train travels past a lookout tower named after sinceendCsillaHungariansettomonastery.andQueenAustro-HungarianConsortErzsebettheruinsofamedieval“Thishasgotbethebesttoytrainintheworld,”musespassengerBotosneartheoftheline.“Especiallyit’sreal.”

—SAM MARGOLIS

UNITED.COMdispatchesHenric

Its coat reflects the glittering lagoons of the atolls of French Polynesia; its shape and curves express the sensuality of the female form. Born from the South Seas, the Tahitian pearl has all the colors, the charms, the shapes and hues that you can dream of. A symbol of purity and elegance, it captivates anyone who sets eyes on it. And it is easy to fall under its spell… but sometimes difficult to choose a favorite. To select your pearl, listen to your heart. And if you still have a doubt, criteria such as size, shape, surface, radiance or color will help you make your COLORchoice.

Once removed from its shell, the Tahitian pearl requires tender loving care. The pearl of Tahiti is a gem that rehydrates on skin contact, so wearing it often is essential. Any acid aggression can be fatal. Its main enemies are chlorinated water, perfume or hairspray… The Tahiti pearl should be wiped regularly with a soft cloth.

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THE TAHITIAN PEARLDISCOVERLesJardinsde Paofai - Front de mer - BP 43 474 Papeete Tahiti Tél. +689 540 040 - Fax : +689 540 044 - contact@maisondelaperle.pf PayetF.Photos-CONCEPT

FIVE

SHAPE Tahitian pearls exhibit a great number of shapes, usually divided in five categories : round/ semi-round, oval/button, drop, circled, semibaroque and baroque. While round pearls have long been buyers’ favorites, other categories attract more and more designers who draw their inspiration from the pearls’ original yet natural shapes, to create unique pieces of jewelry.

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In general, the bigger the pearl’s diameter and the rounder its shape, the higher its value. This rule doesn’t always strictly apply.

The surface quality of a Tahitian pearl is appreciated by the naked eye. As any natural product, some pearls may show some surface imperfections. ARE PEARL CATEGORIES : GEM category : Perfect quality, no defects Category A : Tiny, almost invisible blemishes Category B : Very light imperfections. Category C : Marks on less than 2/3 of the surface Catégorie D : Relatively important marks

•

The pearl of Tahiti is generally between 8 and 14mm. Very exceptionally, some pearls exceed 18mm, and are considered extremely rare treasures.

TAKING CARE OF YOUR PEARL

Although they are commonly called black pearls, Tahitian pearls offer a wide range of colors. In their natural state they show a palette of infinite, unique shades : cherry, cream, peacock, green, blue, gray, white… Choice in this matter is above all a matter of personal taste !

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The radiance of a pearl is made of its luster and its orient. The luster, or shine, is determined by the degree of light reflection on the pearl’s surface. Beautiful luster means that light is totally reflected, resulting in a mirror effect. The weaker the luster, the duller the effect. The orient determines the iridescence of the pearl, which comes from the decomposition of light through the layers of nacre. Beautiful orient results in a soft rainbow effect, similar to what is seen on soap bubbles.

SURFACE QUALITY

THERE

SIZE

RADIANCE

PEARL VALUATION

The value of a large, lower quality pearl may be less than the value of a smaller, blemishfree pearl. However, the color and radiance criteria that are specific to the pearl of Tahiti remain the most decisive for experts.

ADS230541_APC15812 Apply today Thatsaplus.com/hem 1-866-771-2332 Offer Code: 404 Apply today to earn Enough for a roundtrip ﬂ ight* after you spend $250. That ’s a PlusSM * Enough for a roundtrip Saver Award ticket within the continental United States. United Economy® Saver Awards are currently redeemable at 25,000 miles for an economy Saver Award valid within the 48 continental United States (excludes Alaska and Hawaii). Taxes and fees related to award travel are the responsibility of the passenger. Passenger is responsible for the September 11th Security Fee of $2.50 per enplanement at a U.S. airport. Additional checked baggage fees may apply. See www.united.com for details. Award seats are subject to availability and capacity-control restrictions apply. For more information on Mileage Plus award travel visit Accountswww.united.com/awards.subjecttocredit approval. Restrictions and limitations apply. United Mileage Plus Visa credit cards are issued by Chase Bank USA, N.A. See Thatsaplus.com/hem for pricing and rewards details.

HOTELDRAKETHEOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPH

Chicago’s grand dame, The Drake Hotel, turned 90 on Thanksgiving (shown here during its ﬁrst summer, 1921)—and celebrated with a makeover. Room renovations have been ongoing, but this year, the lobby and Palm Court lounge got face-lifts that preserve the hotel’s historic feel. And there’s no shortage of history at The Drake: If you’d like to learn more about Princess Diana’s stay, the ﬁlming of Risky Business or what a painter was paid in 1955, there’s a collectors hardbound book for sale in the gift shop.

thedrakehotel.com Better with Age WHERE TO STAY / WHAT TO SEE / WHEN TO directionsGO HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2010 news 27

WHY NOT TAKE OLIVE ME?

29 DECEMBERCALENDARU.S.THEOFCOURTESYPESCADERO,RANCHOOFCOURTESYSHUTTERSTOCK,BYFESTIVAL,MUSIC&POETRYCOWBOYMONTEREYOFCOURTESYSEASONS,FOURTHEOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHSTOP:FROMCLOCKWISE GROUPPUBLISHERSINDEPENDENTOFCOURTESYORIENTAL,MANDARINTHEOFCOURTESYRESORT,BALINIRWANAOFCOURTESYTOP:FROMPAGE,NEXTSHUTTERSTOCK;BYHOTEL,GRANT news WELL SEASONED // On the shores of Lady Bird Lake in downtown, Four Seasons Hotel Austin makes it as easy to hike and bike by the water as to dine at a hotspot. You don’t have to go far to ﬁnd a trendy eatery—TRIO Restaurant has some of the most sought-after tables in town. fourseasons.com

SPOTLIGHTHOTEL BEACHY KEEN // Only a year after opening, Rancho Pescadero in Baja California Sur, Mexico, is adding 15 beachfront suites—more than doubling in size—along with a yoga and Pilates pavilion and a restaurant headed by French Laundry–trained Carolen Barnett. ranchopescadero.com

This is weekendlongno food fest, no Thistomatoexcursionthree-dayintoormushroom.isthree months of intense olive-l ove. Sonoma Valley’s Season of the Olive kicks off December 4 and lasts through the harvest season. There are culinary and agricultural events and, naturally, Martini Madness. Shaken or stirred, this one’s all about the garnish. olivefestival.com

GRANT YOUR WISH // Listed on the National Register of Historic Places and built by Ulysses S. Grant Jr. (the president’s son), San Diego’s U.S. Grant Hotel can now add turning 100 to its litany of historic benchmarks. To celebrate, it’s offering a number of special packages until the end of this month. Here’s to the next 100 years. usgrant.net 24-27 HONG KONG // Give your thumbs a good stretch and head to the Asia Game Show, where you can play with new videogames and equipment. asiagameshow.com 10-12 MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA // Mosey on over to the Monterey Cowboy Poetry & Music Festival if you’re in the market for handcrafted leather or want to learn about montereycowboy.orgvaqueros 13-16 LOS ANGELES // Build up your art collection at Photo L.A., the biggest photography exhibition in the country. photola.com 30-JANUARY 2 EDINBURGH // Give 2010 a proper send-off with 80,000 of your closest friends at this four-day street fair. edinburghshogmanay.com

KEEPING UP WITH THE SMITHS Figuring out which boutique hotel to stay in while touring France is a nice dilemma to have—one that can easily be solved by reading Mr. & Mrs. Smith Hotel Collection: France. Design and food experts visited hotels around the country and reported on the 32 best, including Bastide Saint Mathieu, above, on the Côte d’Azur. We think you can take it from there. ipgbook.com

SPOTLIGHTGOLF

The

The best part of the Greg Norman golf course at the new Pan Paciﬁc Nirwana Bali Resort isn’t the golf—though that’s pretty sweet. It’s the island offshore, Tanah Lot, and the Hindu temple on it from which incense wafts up onto the green. Finally, you can be the ball. thetribute.com

London’s Mandarin Oriental, Hyde Park will become one of the city’s hottest culinary destinations this month when Dinner by Heston Blumenthal opens. The renowned Fat Duck chef will bring his molecular-gastronomy take on classic British cuisine— think scallops with cucumber ketchup and bergamot-cured mackerel salad. You might have to skip the ﬁ sh ‘n’ chips. mandarinoriental.com

PIPES OF PAN //

DINNER AT THE PARK

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Without a ScanSnap scanner, I’d be buried in paperwork right now. ScanSnap S1300. Our latest high performance mobile scanner is smarter than ever. The Fujitsu ScanSnap S1300 works with a Mac or PC and lets you scan both sides of everything from business cards to legal-size documents in one pass–directly to business applications or to secure, searchable PDFs for ﬁling or emailing. Included in a footprint nearly half the size of a sheet of paper, a 10-page automatic document feeder (ADF) and a choice of an AC adapter or portable USB power frees you up to be more productive anywhere you want. Tell us how you’ll ScanSnap. You just might win a Gift Card. For more details visit http://us.fujitsu.com/united ScanSnap S1300 for Mac or PC © 2010 Fujitsu Computer Products of America, Inc. All rights reserved. Fujitsu and the Fujitsu logo are registered trademarks of Fujitsu Ltd. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners.

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OVER.WithGlobalEntry,there’sno need to wait in the passport line.

THE WAIT IS

Everybody hates waiting–especially when traveling. If you frequently travel abroad from the U.S. for business or leisure, you know the feeling: you’re back in the country after a long trip, and you just want to get on your way home or to your connecting flight.That’s why U.S. Customs and Border Protection developed the Global Entry program for frequent international travelers. As a Global Entry member, you arrive home in the U.S. after a trip abroad, use the automated Global Entry kiosk and you’re on your way. No more paperwork. No more passport lines. Just expedited U.S. entrance. For more information and to apply for the program, go to www.globalentry.gov. It’s that easy–and it’s available at most major U.S. airports. So what are you waiting for? Apply for Global Entry today!

WWW.GLOBALENTRY.GOV global entry YOU WAITING FOR?

87 LITER ROLLING DUFFEL © 2010 Thule Inc. All trademarks and copyrights are property of their respective owners. Thule understands there are two sides to travel. The practical side that gets you to the places you need to be. And the more adventurous side that gets you to the places you live for. Thoughtfully designed Thule Crossover bags let you seize those opportunities, so you never have to leave your passions behind. LEARN MORE AT THULECROSSOVER.COM THREE DAYS IN SALT LAKE CITY FOR A EXPENSE“LIFTCONFERENCE.SALESWHEREDOTICKETS”GOONANREPORT?

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2010 YOU DON’T KNOW THE HALF OF IT VentureSplitboardZephyr $895 / venturesnowboards.com VENTURE’S TOFROMSPLITBOARDNEWMORPHSASNOWBOARDSKISINMINUTES. BY JACQUELINE DETWILER // PHOTOGRAPHS BY CLAIRE BENOIST SplitLickety goods 33 For a snowboarder who loves to carve long, surfy turns through a backcountry powder paradise, there have long been exactly two options: Shell out for a snowmobile, or strap your board to your back and walk, all the while seething with envy as skiers happily ascend the mountain cross-country style without any extra equipment. The splitboard changes all that by transitioning easily between skis and snowboard with a ﬂip of a few clips, so snowboarders can join in the fun of trekking uphill. Skiers, you look good in green.

3 4 2 1 5 1. HARD-HEADED Giro’s Remedy S CF carbon fiber helmet can protect your noggin from even theofgnarliestspills. $270 / giro.com 2. ON TRACK Like fish stories, ski stories are alsoyourbelieved—unlessrarelyHDhelmetcamrecordslocation,speedandaltitude. $350 / contour.com 3. HOT LITTLE HANDS No, MountainColumbia’sGuardglovesarenotjazzhands.Thoselittlesilverdotsreflectheattokeepyourfingerstoasty. $90 / columbia.com 4. STEADY AS IT GOES Tire tread–inspired soles on Cole Haan and Nike’s Air Vail Winter Boots keep you upright, no matter how hard you après-ski. $198 / colehaan.com 5. DOUBLE VISION Skiing in the dark is fun only at night. On cloudy days, trade your mirrored lenses for clear ones on the Smith Optics I/OS goggles. $165 / smithoptics.com 34 DECEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM goods

an attitude a joy for living a welcoming spirit celebrating 50 years of skiing with our own kind of light show BUTTEness (800)643-9516 skicb.com 4TH NIGHT & 4TH DAY FREE! Purchase 3 nights of lodging and 3 days of lift tickets January 4 – March 10, 2011 and your 4th night and day are FREE. Not available February 22 – 26, 2011. Some restrictions apply

Crested Butte’s rich history of being different lives on today with a modern spirit. From its signature peak, wide variety of trails, terrain parks, Superpipe, and legendary Extremes, to the 1880s historic town with its one-of-a-kind shops and restaurants, you’ll know you’re in Colorado’s last great ski town.

Daily direct jet service to Gunnison/Crested Butte Airport with connections worldwide.

He came through open heart surgery without missing a beat.

ChildrensOmaha.org

When Ian Johnson was born, a severe defect restricted his heart’s ability to pump oxygenated blood to his body, a potentially fatal condition. His parents had to choose between a heart transplant and an innovative new series of openheart surgeries that would build Ian a new heart. They put their trust in the expertise of cardiac surgeon Dr. Kim Duncan, leading a team of specialists in three open-heart surgeries performed at Children’s Hospital & Medical Center in Omaha. Ian not only survived, he’s thrived. And as for his heart, the beat goes on.

Visit for more information on how we can help your child. For a pediatrician, family physician or pediatric specialist, call 1.800.833.3100.

“I’m not someone who can do things only part right,” she says.

CASUAL WEAR: “I travel to the jungle about three times a year, and I like to wear the ‘Tree of Life’ tee when I’m ﬂying,” Doane says. The scoopneck, designed by an 11-year-old girl named Mariela who lives in Peru, shows a tree that appears to be crying. “It’s always a conversation starter.”

hero

BETH DOANE IS TRYING TO SAVE THE RAIN FOREST, ONE T-SHIRT AT A TIME.

WHO: BETH DOANE, 27 MISSION: “To show the world the Amazon through the eyes of the kids who live there,” Doane says, “and to improve living conditions there.” Her company, Andira Rain Tees, donates school supplies to children who live in endangered rain forests, then prints their drawings on organic cotton tees. Doane ensures that the factories that produce the shirts have fair labor practices, and the company plants a tree for every shirt sold.

BY LAYLA SCHLACK // PHOTOGRAPH BY JONATHAN ROBERT WILLIS High Tee

MOTIVATION: Initially, Doane started a clothing import-export business called Andira, but she quickly grew disenchanted with the fashion world. “I was ﬁnding lines I really loved overseas, thinking of them as art, but no one else cared,” Doane explains. She wanted to do something that incorporated art and fashion in an ethical way, so she worked out the logistics as she did her research. “It’s really powerful seeing what these kids come up with,” she says. “The drawings are bright and fun at ﬁrst glance, but then they’re also really strong images.”

37 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DE CEMBER 2010

For more information, go to raintees.com

Your next stop, the Sydney Opera House (Macquarie St.; sydneyoperahouse.com), is a bit more reﬁned. There isn’t enough time to hear the fat lady sing, but you can sip a quick glass of ﬁne local wine at one of the bars inside. (2:25)

The city’s tastiest food is steps away in Sydney’s lively, diverse Chinatown. Snap up a delicious Cookies Cream Puff from Barby’s Puff, Donuts n Bakery (396 Sussex St.); it’s the perfect sweet end to your savory time in Sydney. (5:00)

Make a dash to Paddy’s Market (Thomas St.; paddysmarkets.com.au) just up the street to grab some souvenirs. Boomerangs and stuffed koala bears abound, as do vendor stalls peddling Aboriginal art. (4:25)

Stroll to Sydney proper through Australia’s oldest neighborhood, The Rocks. Once home to the convicts who built the city, The Rocks is a warren of pubs, cafés and markets. Grab a beer at Fortune of War (137 George St.; fortuneofwar.com.au), which claims to be the city’s oldest pub. (1:10) It wouldn’t be Sydney without a brush with nature. Hoof it to the Royal Botanic Gardens (Mrs. Macquaries Rd.; rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au) to see thousands of endangered ﬂying-fox—the largest bats in the world. (1:40)

Trek down to the nearby Chinese Garden of Friendship for a peaceful cup of tea. Feel the Zen as you contemplate the lotus ﬂowers and waterfalls. (3:55)

Circle back to Circular Quay and hop a ferry to Darling Harbour (darlingharbour.com), Sydney’s shopping mecca. Check out the alfresco exhibits at the Australian National Maritime Museum, like the replica of the ship sailed by James Cook, the British explorer who mapped the continent. (3:25)

Head to Circular Quay (Alfred Street) to get your obligatory tourist photo of the Harbour Bridge. Walk out just far enough to get a good breath of sea air and a view of this majestic city, then turn back—time’s a-wastin’. (0:25)

MatchingavailableEarrings Palm Tree Pendant with Diamonds Various sizes available starting from $279 for our Petite Palm Tree Pendant with AvailableChainDiamondsadditionalin14KYellow,WhiteorRoseGold OAHU: Ala Moana Center Outrigger Waikiki on the Beach Waikiki Beachwalk Hilton Hawaiian Village MAUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center Lahaina Cannery The Shops at Wailea Whalers Village Front Street (2 locations) Hyatt Regency Maui Grand Wailea Resort KAUAI: Poipu Shopping Village Grand Hyatt Kauai BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII: Kona Marketplace Kings’ Shops Hilton Waikoloa Village NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINES: Pride of America BOSTON: Natick Collection Northshore Mall CHICAGO: Oakbrook Center Woodfield Mall DALLAS: NorthPark Center DENVER: Cherry Creek Shopping Center LOS ANGELES: Glendale Galleria Northridge Fashion Center NEW YORK: Roosevelt Field ORLANDO: The Mall at Millenia PHILADELPHIA: The Plaza at King of Prussia PLEASANTON: Stoneridge Mall PORTLAND: Washington Square SAN DIEGO: Fashion Valley Horton Plaza SAN FRANCISCO: Pier 39 SAN JOSE: Valley Fair SEATTLE: Bellevue Square WASHINGTON, D.C.: Tysons Corner Center

style HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DE CEMBER 2010 41culture ART & COMMERCE

JamPurl CASHMERE HAS GRADUATED from exotic luxury ﬁber to preppy mainstay to almost commonplace: Much has been made of the rise of the under-$100 cashmere sweater, readily available at Old Navy or Uniqlo, stores that have opened up this lofty knit to a new, younger audience. But edgy has never been the province of cashmere, except at one design house that, for 21 years, has been shattering all preconceptions about the luxe goat wool.

TSE Cashmere has “always been a laboratory of ideas,” says Alyson Day, vice president of marketing. “We’ve sought out collaborations with innovative designers who will do interesting things with cashmere yarn.” These have included Calvin Klein alum and onetime Council of Fashion Designers of America Womenswear Designer of the Year Narciso Rodriguez, and Puma creative director Hussein Chalayan. Now Michelle Obama favorite Jason Wu joins those ranks. His spring collection for TSE (pronounced “say”) features classic shapes and loose, open, often sheer knits. Fabrics that blend cashmere and silk are light enough for a warm day and will go equally well with a pearl necklace or animal print heels—or both.

TSE CASHMERE PUTS A NEW SPIN ON A GOOD YARN.

BY LAYLA SCHLACK

TSEOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS

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THE GARDEN OF GOOD AND EVIL

First she predicted the vampire craze. Then she rewrote the gospels. In Of Love and Evil, Anne Rice combines good and evil to construct a story of murder, ghosts and sibling rivalry in Renaissance Italy—starring an angelbacked vigilante. OUT NOW

WHAT TO WATCH, READ AND LISTEN TO THIS MONTH. GET TO THE POINTE An evening at the ballet is always a horrifying prospect to some. Darren Aronofsky’s Black Swan makes it scary for everyone. Natalie Portman gives one of her best performances as a troubled dancer, with Mila Kunis as her friend and rival. DECEMBER 1

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43 CULTURE | DECEMBER 2010 arts The Big Ten

ART ATTACK • You’d have to work pretty hard to ﬁnd a more perfect marriage than the one of money, art and suntan lotion at Art Basel Miami. Each year, aristocrats, artists and art lovers from around the world converge for four days of citywide buying and selling. 2-5 1 54

DECEMBER

The only thing tougher than the 14-year-old girl at the heart of this True Grit remake was the Coen brothers’ task of improving on the John Wayne original. The directors managed it by enlisting Academy Award winner Jeff Bridges in Wayne’s role.

OUT NOW 1 2 3 4 5 6

6 WILDE THING • Oscar Wilde’s An Ideal Husband makes its way back to London’s West End for the ﬁrst time in over a decade. Samantha Bond, best known for her role as Miss Moneypenny in the James Bond ﬁlms, stars in the sharp-edged critique of classic morality.

3 ILLUSTRATIONS BY CHLOÉ FLEURY (5)DISNEYOFCOURTESY(4),BASELARTOFCOURTESY(2),PICTURESPARAMOUNTSEBASTIAN/COURTESYLOREYBY(1),TAVERNISENIKOOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS WAY OUT WEST •

DECEMBER 25 2

FASTER, STRONGER • If you’re going to remake a cult classic about being trapped inside a video game, it only makes sense that you enlist Daft Punk to handle the score. The electronic music pioneers assembled a 100-piece orchestra to create the soundtrack for the 3-D ﬁlm TRON: Legacy. OUT NOW

• After creating the Monkees and making Easy Rider, Bob Rafelson, Bert Schneider and Steve Blauner started production company BBS, which put out Five Easy Pieces, The Last Picture Show and Drive, He Said. Criterion Collection gives them their due with a nine-disc DVD set, “America Lost and Found: The BBS Story.” DECEMBER 14

7 109 arts 7 8 8 9 10 Give your favorite traveler or yourself 5 inches of extra legroom for an entire year, with the Economy Plus annual option. Visit united.com/giftoptions. Optgive the gift legroom.of Plus.Economy® ©2010 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

BRING THE KIDS This month, three family adventures get the 3-D treatment: Dan Aykroyd and Justin Timberlake voice Yogi and Boo Boo in Yogi Bear; Lucy, Edmund and Eustace go for a sea voyage with Prince Caspian in The Chronicles of Narnia: The Voyage of the Dawn Treader; and Jack Black plays a travel writer who ends up in Lilliput in Gulliver’s 10, 22

HEART OF DARKNESS

Travels DECEMBER 17,

MONKEE BUSINESS

•

OUT

SHINING CEE

The Best American Noir of the Century is a compendium of crime writing that covers 1910 to 2010— perhaps the most fertile era of crime since the Visigoths sacked Rome. Contemporary powerhouses Elmore Leonard, Dennis Lehane and Patricia Highsmith hold their own next to Tod Robbins and the godfather of the genre, Mickey Spillane. NOW

OUT

Lady Killer is a fullon party record with infectious neo-soul beats buoying vocals that are impossibly fast and irresistibly melodic. NOW

•

• After two big albums as half of Gnarls Barkley—the brooding duo behind the unlikely killerrapper“Crazy”—Georgia-basedmegahitsinger/CeeLoﬁndshimselfinamood.

COMPOSER DANNY ELFMAN GETS THE BIG-BOX TREATMENT. BY JOE KEOHANE

The resultant box is titled Danse Macabre. It costs $500. It’s the size of a microwave oven. And it’s packed with 16 CDs of scores, demos and Elfman’s personal tapes; a DVD; a 250-page hardcover book introduced by Johnny Depp; a working zoetrope (cylindrical ﬂipbook) depicting Elfman’s head falling off and being danced on; a music box; and artwork by Tim Burton. The whole thing is unabashedly nuts. “We’ve crammed so much into this Box O’ Burton-Elfman,” he says, laughing. “Anybody who’s wrapped up in that world is gonna be very pleased.”

(ELFMAN)REDMOND/WIREIMAGEPAULBYPHOTO(10),IMAGESMICELOTTA/GETTYFRANKBY(9),CRITERIONOFCOURTESY(8),PICTURESBROS.WARNEROFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS Give your favorite traveler or yourself two free checked bags, for every ﬂight, for a year.* Visit Optunited.com/giftoptionsgiftayearoffreebaggage. *Where checked baggage fees are applicable. The purchase of a Premier Baggage subscription does not waive fees that would ordinarily be assessed for oversized and overweight bags, and does not cover the cost of checking bags beyond two standard bags. For complete terms and conditions, visit united.com/ premierbaggage. ©2010 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Baggage.Premier

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2010

American Gothic

THE 25-YEAR COLLABORATION

between director Tim Burton and composer Danny Elfman—which has produced such ﬁlms as Pee Wee’s Big Adventure, The Nightmare Before Christmas and Alice in Wonderland has yielded a trove of brilliantly weird and wonderful music. Yet when Elfman’s agent proposed that they compile all of it, including outtakes, written sheet music and so forth, into a big, exhaustive box set, “I thought he was nuts,” Elfman says. The trouble was, Elfman never consciously saved anything. He assumed it had all been lost. He was wrong. “My house cleaners—or whoever was going through these bags of stuff over the years—just dumped most of it into unmarked boxes and threw it into a storage room.” It fell to his agent and assistant to spend three months digging through unmarked boxes in storage rooms (which were also crammed with broken electronic components, doll parts, and the other bric-a-brac Elfman saves compulsively), in search of material.

Wolfgang Puck will be in Ethiopia this month for the groundbreaking of The Gelila Assefa Puck Skill Training Center, a project his wife is helming.

THE FAMOUS FOODIE IS ALSO A BIT OF A SNOW BUNNY.

BY SARAH HORNE “Like most people, I have my little rituals and places I travel to again and again. I’m Austrian, so of course in the winter I have to go skiing. There’s a Ritz-Carlton near Vail called Bachelor Gulch that I really love. It’s ski-in, ski-out, which is great for our boys, Oliver and Alexander. We’ll ski in the morning and then stop for a long lunch at the hotel, perhaps a good pasta with white trufﬂes. I’m picky about my skiing—I like it when there’s real powder, when there are no tracks in the snow but yours. “One place I haven’t been and that we’re visiting this winter is Ethiopia. My wife, Gelila, was born there, and we’re going because she runs a sponsorship program through a charity called the Ethiopian Children’s Fund. I adore Ethiopian food. It’s everything from goulash to lentils to cabbage and different types of potatoes, and I’m excited to see how they do it at its most traditional. It’s such an ancient civilization.”

MARSALISAMANDAOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPH DECEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM 46 whereabouts The Places I Go: Wolfgang Puck

AUDIOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS

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A NON-SURGICAL TECHNIQUE TO FIGHT AGAINST ARTHRITIS AND SPORTS INJURIES

THE DAZZLING 2011 AUDI R8 SPYDER V10 TEMPTS DRIVERS TO BEHAVE VERY BADLY. // BY MIKE GUY

FEW THINGS SCARE BUZZARDS on a lonely desert road like the roar of a pegged V10 engine on a straightaway. And few modern cars deploy the V10 with such sublime perfection as the Audi R8 Spyder Quattro. After testing the all-wheel-drive system and the 14.4inch brakes on the roads winding out of the Palomar Range outside San Diego, I’m looking to stretch the engine’s legs a bit. When the R8 ﬁrst hit the road in 2007, it signaled something like a call to arms for Audi’s design team. Inspired by the company’s LeMans race car and built on a Lamborghini Gallardo platform (Audi and Lambo are siblings in the Volkswagen family), the R8 was devastatingly fast, with a malevolent look. It was the ﬁrst supercar to emerge from Audi’s shop in Munich, and for the money ($160,000), few cars could matchNowit.comes the next evolution of this monster: the 2011 R8 Spyder V10, a convertible version of the old R8 that is faster, techier and—naturally—pricier

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The 5.2-liter midchassis V10 engine churns out 525 horsepower and hits 60 mph in 3.7 seconds. 8 IS ENOUGH // The R8 Spyder’s ﬁner points

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DE CEMBER 2010 49wheels than the previous iteration. According to one of Audi’s engineers, “The goal with the Spyder is to take everything visceral about the R8 and amplify it.” Amplify it indeed. The Spyder has a growling 5.2-liter V10 engine that generates 525 horsepower and 325 pound-feet of torque. There’s a slew of additional technical features that should quiet the nerdiest of car nerds. Audi “Magnetic Ride” automatically adjusts the chassis to the terrain, and even the underbody has an aerodynamic shape. Like many top-end rides, it can connect with your phone via Bluetooth, but the R8 also has microphones in the seatbelts, so you can quietly make dinner plans while the top is down. There’s also a “launch control,” which maximizes acceleration from a dead stop. The Spyder clocks zero to 60 in 3.7 seconds. As the R8 blasts eastward on Route 75 toward the Salton Sea and the desert beyond, I contemplate testing its reported top speed (195 mph). Instead, I call my wife to discuss dinner. Doing the right thing never felt so good. The LED running lights on the grill are as sinister as the car’s price ($160,000 and up). Newly installed side vents feed air to the rear brakes and the gearbox. They also look cool. 1 2 3 2 1 3

Golf: A Love Story sports DECEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM 50

LET ME START at the end. Me, in the middle of my first round of golf in two years, trekking between the 12th green and the 13th tee box, on the silky tropical backside of the Puakea Golf Course in Kauai. Me, waving my partner along in the cart, so I can just walk and think. Me, coming off a dumb play, a bad putt, kicking myself a little for believing that there would be any comfort in the game of golf. Me, getting frustrated with the aimless conversation of my playing partners. Me, thinking about nothing at all except my next shot. I’d quit golf cold two years before, sure that the game offered only frustration and disappointment. Now here I am beginning my comeback: a tough round on a fierce course in Kauai, the country’s most remote and rewarding golf mecca. The sprawl of mountains, jagged and muscular, scales back my worries. The trade winds blow, a little Cessna crabs its way through the sky above me. I stand at the far-western fringe of the United States, on Hawaii’s major western island, looking at a 205yard shot into the sun. It’s a golfer’s moment, both mundane and particular. I find myself acting like a golfer: TWO YEARS AFTER TURNING HIS BACK ON THE SPORT, AN EMBITTERED HACKER TRAVELS TO KAUAI AND REKINDLES THE FLAME.

BY TOM CHIARELLA ILLUSTRATION BY BARRY BLITT

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This Robert Trent Jones masterpiece is considered one of the top courses in the country. Bring your A-game. princeville.com POIPU BAY GOLF COURSE Tiger Woods counts this longtime home to the PGA’s Grand Slam event among his favorite courses to play. Its only competition is the resort’s amenities. poipubaygolf.com

PRINCEVILLE HANALEI: MAKAI GOLF COURSE

(RIGHT)RESORTPRINCEVILLEREGISST.THEOFCOURTESY(LEFT),PUAKEAOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS

What I remember about the last time I played golf before I quit is how my hands felt—sore and overtight—on the alligator grip of my sand wedge. It was just after my second miss in a row from the same trap, my fifth miss in three holes, the last shot I’d take in an afternoon spent digging around in the carcass of my suddenly failing game. My ball thoroughly, somewhat hyperbolically, flew the green, cleared two bunkers on the other side and rolled out of my sight. If you’ve ever played—or never played—you can fill in the excuses. I’d swung too hard or looked up. Caught it flush instead of blasting the sand. Whatever. No one saw it but me. No one cared but me. I was playing alone on a tough course that I’d always liked, standing there, feet screwed into the sand, in the torpid hotbox of an Indiana summer’s day, and a groan rose in the crankcase of my chest. No one heard that, either. But I can tell you I despised myself just then, the way I looked, the way I sounded, the way I wallowed in the unfairness of an unremarkable moment

FAIRWAYS TO HEAVEN The lowdown on Kauai’s top courses.

A view of one of Puakea’s wild holes. squaring up, clearing my head, digging my spikes into the tee box. It’s been a while since I acted like a golfer. And I won’t save it. I won’t make you work for it. I’ll just state it right here: In about 10 or 15 seconds I’m going to hit my first hole in one. Thirty-two years of golf behind me, countless thousands of swings just like it, a million wishes for this very thing, and now here it is. Right away, I pretty much know that this is the beginning of my return to that most pitiless of sports. When you quit golf, no one cares. Your regular partners stop calling faster than you’d expect. The prized clubs disappear into the great maw of forgotten possessions in the back of your garage. Now your stories are about traffic, movies or traffic on the way to the movies. Other people tell stories about playing Pebble, about chipping in to win a best ball; they rattle on about greenies, birdies, woodies, Arnolds. To you, it all starts to sound like childhood stories about distant cousins. Your genes are in there somewhere, but does it even matter anymore? in a difficult game. I would never be a great golfer. Not even a good one. The ball settled somewhere that afternoon, in some frog hole by some drainage pond, maybe. But I’ll never know, because I walked off after that. I put my clubs in my trunk and did not take them out for a year. When I did, they sat in my downstairs closet for another year. I left the game. I was done. I didn’t announce my retirement; I simply stopped. I regained my Thursday evenings and recouped Saturdays entirely. I started

FRESH GREENS

KAUAI LAGOONS GOLF CLUB When none other than Jack Nicklaus opened this course in 1989, it was called “the golden age of golf courses in Hawaii.” Stay gold, Kauai Lagoons. kauailagoonsgolf.com

congratulating myself for taking on tasks I’d previously put off. Hanging shades, learning to grill lamb shank, making cobbler. For a while I played tennis, then racquetball, then basketball. After a year, no one asked me about golf anymore. There came a night, as I pulled into the parking lot before a Zumba class, when I caught sight of the cold sunset at one end of the parking lot, cutting through a set of snow-heavy ﬁr trees.

Facing west, thinking that spring would come soon, I realized I was eyeballing the trees as if there were a green in front of them, as if the whole icy scene were a setup for a stiff gapwedge from 95 yards. I knew then that I wanted to play again. I knew it would happen. But I didn’t want to revisit those sites of past ignominy, frustrated, angry, hacking away in that same old Indiana sand trap, burdened by the same old expectations. I started looking for new places to play. I began pawing the magazines again. I looked for snatches of great courses as I passed them on the highways or from the windows of planes. None of this made me a golfer again. A golf course is always a vision, even at a distance, even to a nongolfer. I needed to play. I needed to get my hands on a club. I decided that I would go west to do it. So I signed up for a five-course tour of Kauai—from the jungle traverse of Princeville, the top-rated course in the state, to the sunny Poipu Bay hugging the cliffs of the south shore, to the stillremarkable Kauai Lagoon, I knew this excursion would challenge the best golfer in the world. I also knew that plainly this was not me. This was the end of my retreat from the game. But I did not practice. I couldn’t see what good it would do. I vowed not to swing until I arrived at the first tee. By doing this, I guaranteed that I would not be any good, nor was there any chance that I’d be great. I set out that first day to be only one thing: a golfer. I’d figure out the rest as I went. And so, deep in the trip, I found myself facing down a 205-yard bomb, looking between two trees toward a flag on the front end of the green. As I said, I ciphered it awhile, and I took my swing. It felt great from contact on. The ball rose in a high, controlled draw, straight into the sun. Right away, someone said, “That’s in the hole!” And I half-brayed out a guffaw, claiming that with my luck I’d never see the ball again. The old me expected the worst, but that version of me was at his end. None of us saw the ball land. “That really was a good shot,” said another. “I think it’s in the hole. I think you did it.” I didn’t want to expect that much. I didn’t want to expect anything. So I decided to smile; I decided to tell them how happy I was already. This month, Esquire writer-at-large TOM CHIARELLA celebrates the first anniversary of his return to golf. I started looking for snatches of great golf courses as I passed them on the highway or from the windows of planes. I needed to play again.

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IN 2002, Klaus Heidegger was an aging former athlete and businessman with back issues when a friend introduced him to a pair of odd-looking shoes from Switzerland’s Masai Barefoot Technology, or MBT. Boasting thick, rounded soles designed to mimic the effect of walking barefoot on uneven ground, the shoes had been used successfully by physiotherapists and orthopedists to treat patients with muscle and back pain. The Los Angeles–based Heidegger, who’d spent years skiing competitively in Austria, tried them out. Almost immediately, his back and knees felt better. In addition to the stated beneﬁts (improved posture and gait, and decreased pressure on the joints), he noticed a side effect: a nice toning and tightening of certain leg and gluteal muscles that had previously gone underused. Interesting, he thought. Heidegger and his wife, Jami—who had recently sold her family’s skincare company, Kiehl’s, for a rumored $150 million—thought the shoes might play well among Americans, a people with no shortage of enthusiasm for the next big thing in ﬁtness. So they started investing in the company, eventually buying a majority share in 2006. Within a year of the Heideggers’ involvement, they had placed the $200 to $300 shoes in more than 200 stores in the U.S. Atlanta-based Foot A LITTLE SWISS COMPANY’S BODY-FRIENDLY SHOES AND THE MULTIBILLION-DOLLAR TONING SNEAKER INDUSTRY THAT THREATENS TO OVERSHADOW THEM. BY ALYSSA GIACOBBE // ILLUSTRATION BY GARY NEILL

Growing Pains HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMindustry| DE CEMBER 2010

The talk of Spring 2008 spawned copycats by, among others, Olivier Theyskens, Antonio Berardi and Lady Gaga’s favorite, Noritaka Tatehana.

DECEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM 56 Solutions, the first retailer to bring MBT to the market, saw upward of $5 million in sales that first year alone. Of course, it wasn’t banged-up athletes who were buying. It was suburban moms, the elderly and anyone else lured by the promise of “toning while you walk,” as the media and retailers began to put it. Tapping into the body image market may not have been MBT’s original intent, but it was hard to argue with the numbers. Toning shoes were shaping up to be a $400 million global business. Still, says Heidegger, “the focus was always wellness and health. Toning is a byproduct, but not what we intended the shoe to be used for.” Indeed, MBT’s early stateside advertising efforts were focused chiefly on explaining the therapeutic benefits of “rocker bottom” technology. Little did Heidegger know he was creating a monster. As MBT’s sales grew, copycat shoes began turning up, launched by companies happy to exploit Americans’ collective obsession with finding easy ways to get in shape. Reebok, New Balance, Avia, Skechers and Nike, as well as smaller brands such as FitFlops and Flojos, all introduced models that stressed “toning” more than therapeutic function. Today, toning footwear is the most lucrative shoe category in the U.S., with sales expected to clear $1.5 billion in 2010. Thanks in large part to its wildly popular Shape Ups line, Skechers is now the No. 2 best-selling shoe brand in the U.S., behindMBT,Nike.however, isn’t celebrating.

Toning footwear is now the most lucrative shoe category in the U.S.—to the exasperation of MBT.

MARC JACOBS HEELLESS SHOES

SHOE TREE Revolutionary—and perhaps revolutionarily ugly— shoes throughout the years. CROCS Fashion guru Tim Gunn may have quipped that this foam-resin clog “looks like a hoof,” but that didn’t stop Crocs from sweeping the globe.

BIRKENSTOCKS Expected to fail in the go-go ’60s, the shoes launched contoured insole technology and provided the ﬁrst link between medical specialists and footwear. VIBRAM FIVE FINGERS FOOT SHOE For modern, outdoorsy types who want to walk barefoot in the sun without the risk of tetanus.

The competition’s focus on using the shoes as a means to a better rear— exempliﬁed by a Reebok EasyTone ad depicting a woman entirely from behind—was not the direction Heidegger saw the genre taking. In fact, he seems to take it personally. “That’s putting the whole category down,” he says. Adds Jami Heidegger, “We never intended to claim the shoe could reduce cellulite”—as Skechers has proposed—“or make you look like Gisele Bündchen. And I do think that’s hindered our growth. We aren’t making these ﬂashy claims.”

Which isn’t to say MBT hasn’t beneﬁted from them, too. Sam Spears, MBT’s vice president of product and marketing, says the competition’s immense marketing push has helped commercialize the look of MBTs and educate consumers about the category.

While MBT’s sales are indeed still growing, more powerful brands like Skechers—which spends tens of millions of dollars a year on marketing—are eating into the market at an overwhelming clip. The challenge MBT faces now is to differentiate itself from the crush of lower-priced imitators while sticking to the founding principles of wellness and rehabilitation through quality engineering. “Because of their success, it’s been tempting to market MBTs as a toning product too,” Spears says. “But we’re trying desperately to avoidSpearsthat.”points out that unlike the competition, MBT is considered a medical device in 40 countries, meaning that with a prescription they’re covered by insurance.

While the FDA hasn’t yet bought in, American doctors, for the most part, back up MBT’s claims. “I use them to help rehabilitate patients who are walking unevenly,” says Dr. Andrew Elliott, an orthopedic surgeon at Manhattan’s Hospital for Special Surgery. “You do use different muscles, and it will help strengthen your core and make you stand upButstraight.”MBT’s biggest problem may go well beyond simply establishing a point of difference with the competition. The sort of customer drawn in by the quick health fix is far more likely to fork out $100 for a pair of Skechers than $300 for a pair of MBTs. And once the less expensive shoes break down—the life span for a pair of Skechers Shape Ups is about a year, according to online reviews, while MBTs are designed to last more than five—the customer will be soured on the market and ready to move on to the next fad. For this reason, experts are warning that the end is near for functional footwear, with an overcrowded market risking a sort of implosion. “The category can’t support the type of growth that’s going on now,” says Ray Margiano, founder and CEO of Foot Solutions. If a mass extinction is in the cards, MBT plans to go down kicking. The Heideggers have hired a new design team leader with a Prada pedigree to make the shoes “more presentable,” and introduced a “day-to-night” line that professionals can wear to the office. Early next year, the brand will introduce an “introductory” model that’ll sell for around $175. But the quality, Heidegger says, will not suffer. “People ask me, ‘How are you making money? I’ve had the shoe for two years and it still looks the same,’” he says. “It’s a Swiss company! The Swiss don’t just throw things out like we do here in the U.S.” Heidegger shrugs. “But what can you do?”

57industry

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A HOME SOUS VIDE SYSTEM CAN TURN EVEN THE HUMBLEST OF COOKS INTO A FOODIE-SCIENTIST. BY ADAM BAER // ILL USTRATION BY RODRIGO CORRAL food &

Total Immersion

drink HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DE CEMBER 2010

ATTENTION, PADMA LAKSHMI: I have been turning out Michelin star–quality food at home for a month now. Why hasn’t anyone from Top Chef called? Relax, Padma, no need to apologize. How could you have known? After all, until recently I was just a decent home cook whose food never really got beyond “rustic.” Then I discovered the space-age sous vide (pronounced “sue veed”) system, made famous on shows just like yours. French for “under vacuum,” sous vide is a simple system. It requires a vacuum sealer to remove the air from the thick plastic pouches chefs use to package the raw food; a large pot ﬁlled with water; and an “immersion circulator” with a built-in pump to heat and move water so it stays at a set temperature when the sealed food enters the little Jacuzzi. Spurred along by the technique’s ubiquity on TV shows and in the open kitchens of America’s most haute restaurants, I’ve endeavored to test some precision gadgetry that promises exquisite results. Not to trample all over Grandma’s low-andslow recipes, but this techno-cooking style leads to superior consistency and ﬂavor without having to heat up anything but that pot of water. In the past year, home-kitchen-friendly ways to sous vide have become available, so I tested two leading products: the $800 Sous Vide Professional, a true immersion circulator with digital LCD thermostat that clamps onto and sits in a pot of water, made by PolyScience

Of course, there are also various home sous vide “hacks,” as food geeks would call them, which involve things like beer coolers and candy thermometers. But I want to see how the experts do it, so I stop by the highly regarded Craigie on Main in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Award-winning chef Tony Maws runs a casual high-end eatery, helped along, in part, by some serious sous vide strategy.

The more affordable Sous Vide Supreme wasn’t as consistent, although it was slightly easier to use; I didn’t have to buy a big pot or tank, or clamp anything to it. This device took a little longer to heat the same amount of water, though, and the meat came out less perfectly done. Undeterred, I dried and seared it, and guess what? It tasted like a nice, tender steak too. Head to head, both machines expertly tackled short ribs, corned beef and coq au vin, with the PolyScience product often producing slightly better results, but I can’t say that I felt right about leaving the house empty with something simmering away, or that I was able to focus on much more than my cooking experiments during those few weeks I played with the technique. “Sous vide isn’t the be-all end-all,” Maws tells me when I describe my experience. “It’s just another technique.” He likes it best for tough cuts of meat that take a long time to cook. “If the internal

Maws trained with French sous vide pioneer Bruno Goussault, a food scientist who worked with chef Joël Robuchon to adapt the method for the train from Paris to Marseille. Like other chefs, Maws treats sous vide as just one tool in his arsenal; it’s a way, say, to slow-cook pork shoulder (24 to 48 hours at 154 degrees) before crisping up the skin in a pan so that it looks and tastes better than something rotating on a spit in WithoutSardinia.aprofessional chef’s vision, time and planning resources, it’s unlikely that a home cook could produce something of Maws’ caliber. When I unwrapped my sous vide machine, I figured I could at least get a simple tenderloin done medium-rare, wall-to-wall, so it wouldn’t have that gray-brown-red color gradation you’d get from a grill. I followed the directions, ensuring my fillet was well seasoned and drizzled in oil before vacuum-sealing it, then I dropped it into a large pot fitted with the Sous Vide Professional. While I waited close to 45 minutes for the water to heat, the machine blew a fuse in my apartment. So I turned off the air-conditioner, lights and television and sat, sweating and hungry, illuminated by my battery powered laptop, for another 45 minutes. When it was time to remove and pat dry the very gray, positively ugly hunk of cow muscle (this cost $26 a pound?), I ripped the machine’s plug out of the wall and gave each side of the fillet a nice sear in a hot pan, setting off my smoke alarm— and improving the slab’s aesthetics considerably.Theresult?

DECEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM 60 food & drink

TONY MAWS’ SLOW-ROASTED CHICKEN

Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Place the legs and thighs in one bag and the breasts in another. Add a tablespoon of fat to each bag. Seal bags on medium high and cook at 151° F until internal temperature of the breasts reaches 148° F—approximately an hour and a half. Remove breasts and raise the temperature of the water to 169° F and cook until legs and thighs reach an internal temperature of 158° F. Heat a cast iron pan on medium. Remove chicken from bags and gently pat dry with paper towel. Add one tablespoon fat to pan and quickly sear chicken pieces, skin down, until well browned. (the manufacturer preferred by the pros); and the $450 Sous Vide Supreme, which looks like a stainless steel rice cooker and doesn’t circulate its water, although its digital display tells you that it keeps it at a precise temperature.

A perfectly mediumrare piece of meat that was a deep pink-red from edge to edge. It tasted great. Had I grilled it—which would have been much faster and easier— I’d have had to settle for one or two centimeters of the steak’s perimeter cooked closer to well done and a center of straight-up red rareness.

“Remember dropping that bag of Green Giant frozen vegetables in a pot of water?” Maws asks me. “That wasn’t about paying attention to exact temperatures the way we do today, but it was preserving color and ﬂavor and ﬁnding ways to cook food prepped and vacuum-sealed ahead of time.”

Cut chicken into ﬁve pieces: legs and thighs, breasts on the bone, and back. Reserve the back for future use. Brine the other four pieces for two hours in the refrigerator. Remove and pat dry.

1 chicken, 3-4 pounds 3 Tbsp. rendered chicken or duck fat Salt and pepper to taste BRINE 2 liters water 6 grams salt 6-inch sheet of kombu kelp 1 star anise 1 Tbsp. fennel seed 1 Tbsp. coriander seed 1 Tbsp. black peppercorns 1 clove 1 tsp. chili ﬂake

WE LOVE HOW EASY IT IS

temperature of cooked meat is a hundred twenty-four degrees Fahrenheit, and if you braise it for three hours at three-hundred degrees in your oven, you’re still overcooking it. There are still delicious reasons to braise—it’s a classic technique. But with sous vide, the meat stays moist and very ﬂavorful. You get the best of both Progress?worlds.”Sure.But as a rustic home cook, I’m just not certain I have enough time in my life to plan regular meals that take 48 hours to cook. I can see how sous vide would elevate a special dinner to another level, and I respect that food-science geeks love the democratizing power of technology—to say nothing of buying all their protein at once, each week, portioning it out, vacuum-sealing it and having perfect, ﬂavorful, inexpensive and often lowfat meals every night. But I’m already under pressure, living and working in this hectic universe at a somewhat consistent temperatureinternalof98.6 degrees, 24 hours a day. Moreover, I guess I’m just a simple country boy at heart. If my home-testing taught me anything, it’s that I’m grateful for the Mawses of our world. So, with that, I leave the technique to them

But Padma, if you’re still reading, I’d be happy to give your Top Chef contestants some pointers. L.A.-based writer ADAM BAER can make a mean salmon in minutes—in a pan. BOILING POINT The Sous Vide Supreme, front, and Sous Vide Professional.

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DE CEMBER 2010 artifact “Stroll down São Paulo’s throbbing Rua 25 de Marco and pick up a brilliant handmade resin necklace.” 64 THE HEMI Q&A Judd Apatow, the patron saint of arrested development. By David Carr 68 PARADISE FOUND Kick back on some of the world’s most spectacular beaches. 78 ROLLER DERBY The race to build the fastest roller coaster. By Stephan Talty 82 THREE PERFECT DAYS: SÃO PAULO Inside Brazil’s sprawling urban powerhouse. By Stephan Talty FEATURES 63 82P. PHOTOGRAPH BY CLAIRE BENOIST

65 He’s been behind the decade’s biggest comedies, but this patron saint of arrested development started out the old-fashioned way: by menacing Steve Martin. THE HEMI Q&A: JUDD APATOW BY DAVID CARR ILLUSTRATION BY STANLEY CHOW DECEMBER2010

APATOW: The interviews that had the biggest impact on me were with people like Jerry Seinfeld, Jay Leno, Garry Shandling and Paul Reiser, because they all had this skill, and they were superfunny and nice people. It felt like this is what a grown-up version of me might look like if I worked hard and stayed on my path.

Apatow was nominated for a bunch of Emmys in the mid-’90s for his work on The Larry Sanders Show, but he really came into his own with 1999’s short-lived but critically beloved NBC sitcom Freaks and Geeks, which he produced, cowrote and codirected. A funny, often wince-inducing and surprisingly sweet look at the lives of outcasts in a suburban high school, it was canceled after one season. Later, Apatow moved into films full-time, scoring his first big smash with 2004’s Anchorman: The Legend of Ron Burgundy. Since then he’s become something of a one-man comicindustrial complex. His next production, Bridesmaids, starring Kristen Wiig, comes out in May. (He’s also working on an as-yet-unnamed Pee-wee Herman film, slated for 2011.) We had an interesting conversation at lunch, but, schlub that I am, I didn’t bring a tape recorder, so I called Apatow back a few weeks later to talk a little more about how he became the king of a certain kind of comedy.

HEMISPHERES: You’ve become a producer known for a golden commercial touch, but you ﬁrst came to prominence with Freaks and Geeks, which lasted one season. People still talk about that show as one of the best that ever snuck onto a network schedule.

DECEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM 66

HEMISPHERES: Did you decide afterward that you needed to be more commercial?

HEMISPHERES: You work with the same people over and over— Seth Rogen, Will Ferrell, Paul Rudd, Jonah Hill, Jason Segel.

APATOW: It’s hard to ﬁnd people you’re both in sync with and like spending a lot of time with. When I made Funny People with Adam Sandler, it was the ﬁrst time we got to hang out every day since 1991.

APATOW: He was a great roommate. It was a very fun time, because we all knew that he was going to be a big star. There was just an energy around him that was undeniable. He was very charismatic, his stand-up act was experimental and strange, and he never cared if he did well or bombed. He wasn’t making movies yet. Janeane Garofalo and Ben Stiller were around in those days too, before they had done anything that people remember. We all used to hang around and try to figure out how we were going to get into the business. NOT LONG AGO, I WAS IN LOS ANGELES AND HAD LUNCH WITH JUDD APATOW, the wildly successful producer-writer-director who has had a hand in hit films The 40 Year Old Virgin, Knocked Up, Superbad, Anchorman and Get Him to the Greek. As you might expect, we had something of a Hollywood power lunch. There was a very nice grilled salmon with Thai chili sauce and a grilled pork dish I remember with some fondness. This being Judd Apatow, however, we weren’t actually in Hollywood. We were in a nondescript three-story office building in a part of Santa Monica you won’t see in the movies, and we were eating out of plastic takeout containers. That’s how Apatow, 43, rolls: No gilded reception area and fluttering posse of assistants with headsets, just a conference table piled with papers from all his various projects and a lot of talk about movies. A Jewish kid who grew up in Syosset, New York, idolizing comedians, he’s never been much for the showbiz part of show business. That sensibility is reflected in his characters: schlubby, floundering man-children and the women who, for whatever reason, love them.

APATOW: Nothing changed about my work—in fact, most of the movies I’ve made star the cast of Freaks and Geeks—but for some reason the culture has embraced the goofy guys and goofy women, so suddenly there’s a place for me.

HEMISPHERES: You lived with Sandler. How was he as a roommate? Did he leave the cap off the toothpaste?

APATOW: It was a funny dynamic. It was so clear that we were going to get canceled. The network stopped giving notes, and we responded by shooting the types of episodes that the network would have absolutely no interest in. In the end, it feels like a miniseries. We were lucky. We said most of what we wanted to say because we knew it was going to end.

HEMISPHERES: You were fanatical about comedy from a very young age, right? You had a radio show in high school and interviewed all kinds of big names.

“The culture has embraced goofy guys and goofy women. Suddenly there’s a place for me.”

HEMISPHERES: Speaking of formative experiences, you have a pretty good Steve Martin story. APATOW: I always feel bad for Steve when I tell the story. HEMISPHERES: So stipulated—can you tell it anyway?

HEMISPHERES: So he’s funny and nice.

FAMILY GUY // Above, Judd Apatow with wife Leslie Mann and kids; left to right, on the set of Funny People with Adam Sandler and Seth Rogen; with an unamused Jimmy Fallon; opposite, on the set of The 40 Year Old Virgin

HEMISPHERES: You can’t threaten to kill them, for one thing. APATOW: Exactly. You never know when a dead writer’s great-great-great-grandson’s nephew wants to get paid. But even the dead people came around eventually. I have been inspired by Eggers’ level of giving. For someone who is very productive as a writer and a publisher, he makes a lot of time to tutor kids and run all of these tutoring organizations around the country. I think teachers can have a huge impact on a kid. In eleventh grade, I had a teacher who asked me to write my autobiography as an assignment. I was embarrassed about my own life, so I made one up about how I was actually in the CIA, undercover at the school and how I was having all of these romances with the teachers. I thought I was going to get in trouble but she pulled me aside one day and said, “You’re very funny. You could write like Woody Allen. You should pursue that.”

APATOW: Steve Martin is the funniest man in the world.

APATOW: The writer Dave Eggers cofounded a nonproﬁt tutoring, writing and publishing organization called 826, and one day I was talking to him about how he could raise some money for it. I told him I could put together a book of all of my favorite pieces of humor. So now we have this book called I Found This Funny. It is a humor collection, though several pieces aren’t funny at all. I spent a year putting together this almost-ﬁve-hundred-page book. We have the pilot to a sitcom that Conan O’Brien cowrote for Adam West twenty years ago called Lookwell. It’s about a retired actor who once played a detective on television trying to solve actual crimes with an honorary badge made out of Lucite. It’s one of the funniest television pilots I have ever read. There are excerpts from Steve Martin’s memoir about being a standup comedian, and short stories from Raymond Carver and James Agee.

APATOW: Okay. When I was a teenager I would always drive by Steve’s house. One day he was out front and I asked him to sign a piece of paper for me. He said he didn’t sign autographs at his house because he didn’t want everyone to start knocking on his door, which is a completely reasonable request. I asked him if he could step out on the street and sign it, and he said sorry. I put a letter in his mailbox the next day that said I think you’re the funniest guy in the world, but if you don’t send me an apology I’m going to send your address to Homes of the Stars and you’re going to have tour buses passing by twenty-four hours a day. I told him you wouldn’t live in that house if I didn’t buy all of your records and go to all of your movies. It was a very nasty letter, but it was also probably funny. So six months later in the mail, he sent me his humor collection Cool Shoes, and he signed it, “To Judd: I’m sorry, I didn’t realize I was speaking to THE Judd Apatow.” This is 1981. That was when I decided to be a comedian. I realized that he didn’t just send me a note—he sent me a book, and it felt like he took extra time to do something extra funny and kind.

THE HEMI Q&A

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HEMISPHERES: You’re editing a book to beneﬁt a charity, right?

DAVID CARR , who covers media and culture for The New York Times, will happily sign autographs in front of his house. For a small fee. 67

HEMISPHERES: How did you swing the rights to all that stuff? APATOW: We just begged everybody to do it as cheaply as possible. I ﬁnd it’s much harder to convince the dead people to give it to us cheap than the living ones.

A visit to Laucala, the Fijian island owned by the mercurial cofounder of the Red Bull energy drink empire, reveals one of the most luxurious—and relaxing—new resorts in the world. Kevin Gray Photographs by Jeremy Simons

68 FANTASY ISLAND The approach to Dietrich Mateschitz’s Laucala, 3,000 acres of palm groves and white-sand beaches. DECEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM PARADISE FOUND

American ﬁnancier Malcolm Forbes once called Laucala, his stunning private island in the Fiji archipelago, heaven on earth. With about 3,000 acres of palm trees, white sand and rugged peaks—not to mention a kaleidoscopic reef of dazzling coral and graceful mantas—it was easy to see why. Of course, before Forbes’ death in 1990, the only way the average person could see Laucala (pronounced Loo-THAH-la) was to get a personal invite. Today, the island is open for business. With 25 private villas (from $3,800 per night up to $35,000-a-night for the entire compound), it is, without hyperbole, the most exclusive resort in the South Paciﬁc, catering to the well-heeled seeking repose, pampering and the sort of discretion only the well-heeled expect.

The man holding the keys to this ultra-posh fantasy island is, not surprisingly, one of the most elusive billionaires on the planet: Dietrich Mateschitz, the Austrian baron of the Red Bull empire, who bought the island from the Forbes family for a reported $10 million in 2006 and set about remodeling it. A marketing genius who tied Red Bull’s image to the extreme sports crowd—sponsoring both NASCAR and Formula 1 racing teams—Mateschitz has tricked out Laucala with similar verve. But instead of extreme sporting, it’s extreme relaxation at its coolest and most tropical. Opened at the end of 2008, the resort island is a Robinson Crusoe daydream come to life. Thatched beach villas, carved stone tubs, clifftop bars and jungle-canopied spas are all crafted from local mahogany and granite. The restaurants, spa, dive and fishing center, even the 18-hole golf course, look as if they were built by the natives. Indeed, many of the Fijian staff have lived here for generations and provide Laucala’s heart and soul. Whether you’re the Google guys or the Shriver-Schwarzeneggers (all past visitors), the local staff greet you with a song and a Fijian greeting: Bula! Sandy paths connect each of Laucala’s independent, thatch-roofed villas (called bures in Fiji, each has its own butler and plunge pool and comes festooned with tropical flowers) with a self-sustaining farm, hydroponics nursery, five restaurants, a new golf course (designed by David McLay Kidd) and docks housing state-of-the art dive boats, jet skis, and fishing and sailboats. Finally, there’s the main lodge, a plantation house where Forbes once entertained Elizabeth Taylor. The two of them took meals here and looked out over the coconut palm plantation that marbles the far distance, all the way to an alabaster beach. Today, islanders use those fruits to make coconut oil beauty products, and soon biodiesel to run a self-

70 DECEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM sustaining farm and a hydroponics greenhouse. Mateschitz’s private hideaway is a villa called Hilltop, and it can actually be rented—for $35,000 a night—in the unlikely event he’s not around. To reach Hilltop, you have to drive 400 feet up a secret road that leads directly from the island’s tiny landing strip. There is a main house as well as two guest residences that house your entourage, security detail and—if you’re the mess-making type—your maids. The master bedroom opens onto a huge teak deck offering a 360-degree view of the island and the surrounding reef, so a guest can take in the entire Red Bull kingdom in all its breathless splendor. A shaded library holds a collection of Fijian war clubs, brain forks and hardcover books on living in a handmade treeThehouse.dimensions are staggering. The bathroom alone is 322 square feet; the handlaid pebble-lined shower is the size of a modest bedroom. The carved mahogany tub could fit a baby elephant. Outside, a series of interlocking pools, including a glass-walled infinity pool, beckon. This is the great irony of Laucala: The energy drink baron’s domain may be the most laid-back place in all of luxury-travel-land. You’d be hard-pressed to find a can of Red Bull anywhere on the island. Soon after you arrive, you’ll hear the story of the couple who started breakfast at 11 a.m. under their plunge pool’s thatched hut and didn’t finish until 4 p.m., and you might ask yourself, Do I have what it takes to chill out that long? According to Rai Cavalevu, a 27-year-old hostess who attends to one of the bures, you do. “Everything is here for you,” she says, in an ethereal way that makes you want to say, Yes, Rai, yes it is.

“Over here, man,” someone calls. A pathway is cut between two black pitted boulders and leads to

There are ﬁve different exquisite restaurants on the island, each specializing in a version of island cuisine. A suspended plank bridge leads to the Seagrass Lounge and Restaurant, around which is wrapped a polished mahogany platform offering a view of a blue cove 100 feet below. Mango shooters precede the Malay meal of spicy tom yum goong soup with prawns, followed by steamed cod with a tangy lime sauce and sweet vegetable fried rice. The best way to get around is via one of the new Trek mountain bikes. Paths thread past the beach club and the lagoon pool and head up a steep sandy road that climbs until the banyan and palm trees give way to shrubs, and suddenly there’s a 360-degree view of the South Paciﬁc, with Fiji’s big islands to the west, Taveuni and then Vanua Levu.

71 RED SKIES AT NIGHT Laucala is home to five restaurants, a golf course, 25 private villas and more than 2,000 species of flower.

72 LUXE LIFE Below, diving atop the Great Yellow Wall; above, the exquisite interior of a bure ; and opposite, a handful of salt scrub from the spa. DECEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

“Welcome,” says a lanky Fijian waiter named Josefa Tukana. It’s nearly 7, and the sun is setting. “You know what Fiji time is?” Tukana asks as he blends a mai tai. “Easy man. Nobody is in a rush here.” He points to the clear water below. The shadowy shape of a manta glides past. “It’s not like you been taught,” he says.This“Easy.”region of the South Pacific is home to some of the best-preserved coral reefs in the world. The dive center is a quick walk past majestic, umbrella-shaped banyan trees to the beach. Gordon Wakeham, the dive instructor, pilots a dive boat out to a reef called the Great Yellow Wall. At about 4 p.m., the Fiji sun is strong. The boat comes to a rest over a 1,200-foot wall of coral teeming with fish. The top of the reef, only 15 feet under water, is brown, like late summer grass on a prairie, but below it is alive with bright, moving coral, such as flaming orange sea fans and impossibly purple brain coral. Comical parrotfish dart past. A little gray reef shark about the length of your arm lazily drifts past. Far below, where Wakeham has descended with the scuba gear, a sea turtle the size of a Volkswagen gracefully waggles its stubby flippers. No Deitrich Mateschitz enterprise would be complete without an exquisite toy that salutes extreme sports. At Laucala, that toy is a milliondollar, 41-foot Riviera fishing boat that sleeps six. Nothing follows an evening of diving like a morning of fishing. Just across the pristine Tasman Strait from Laucala, outside Fiji’s North Passage and not far from Bligh Water, Captain Manoa DuGulele, a toughened 40-year-old fisherman, seeks out yellowfin tuna, marlin and wahoos. “We don’t use the sonar, even though we have one,” says DuGulele.

Laucala’s funkiest plateau, a lounge that hangs over a cliff, resembling a highly varnished tree house for grown-ups and is aptly named the Rock Café.

“We use birds.” He points out a flock of gulls divebombing the waves. He and Wakeham set cigar-size plastic lures on several lines and drop them overboard as we begin to troll. Beneath the birds, you see hundreds of little silver fish jumping along the water. Eventually, DuGulele will catch a dozen eight-pound yellowfins. It’s an action-packed end to a day. Somewhere, Dietrich Mateschitz raises a chilled glass of Red Bull in approval.

Since returning from Laucala, New York City–based writer KEVIN GRAY has been late to every appointment.

PRIVACY,PLEASE

HOW EXCLUSIVE IS IT? It’s open to the public and offers some (comparatively) affordable accommodations in spots, but it remains chieﬂy a playground for big money. In 2007, for instance, Bruce Willis threw a ﬁt after doormen at the Billionaire nightclub refused to let him into a party held by Lebanese jewel magnate Fawaz Gruosi.

Boarding pass Don’t let Rome be your last stop. Stay on United and visit Sardinia. Swim, boat, climb or camp—we’ll take care of the ﬂying.

DECEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

Purchased in 1962 by the Aga Khan—billionaire, jetsetter, philanthropist and spiritual leader of nearly 20 million Ismaili Muslims—the 35-mile-long island with pristine sandy beaches and dramatic stretches of rocky coastline was originally envisioned as a private paradise for the Khan and his friends. Nowadays it’s a favored haunt of Hollywood stars, oil-rich Arab princelings, Russian billionaires and their paramours, and (of course) Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi.

HOW DO YOU GET THERE? Fly to Olbia airport on the island or take a ferry from Genoa or Livorno in Italy.

WHAT TO DO? The beaches are world-class, and the party scene is, shall we say, something to behold, but Costa Smeralda also has an array of gourmet restaurants and luxury shops, ample opportunities for tennis and water sports, and an uncommonly tough golf course by legendary course designer Robert Trent Jones.

74 Sardinia • Costa Smeralda

Red Bull honcho Dietrich Mateschitz isn’t the world’s only big-name, big-ego proprietor of an exclusive island resort.

Lanai Island • Hawaii

Finding a beach in Sydney is as easy as ﬁnding a crowd in Manhattan—they’re everywhere—but it takes resolve to get to Resolute Beach. There are two options: Either hike two-and-a-half miles on a sandy trail down a hill through Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, or take a small boat. The boat offers stunning views of nearby Barrenjoey Head, while the trail offers hikers a chance to see aboriginal art at Red Hands Cave. However you wind up getting there, you’ll be rewarded with a quiet, secluded beach sheltered by trees, perfect for swimming (and, if you hiked in, for resting).

Lanai Island was just an unpreposessing dot off the coast of Maui when billionaire David Murdock bought the company that owned it in 1985. Prior to Murdock’s arrival, the 140-squaremile island was known chieﬂy for being the world’s largest pineapple plantation (once owned by Dole). Murdoch quickly got to work replacing the pineapple trees with two Four Seasons resorts, a couple of golf courses and a smattering of luxury homes. Now he’s riling up the locals with a proposed $750 million wind farm to be erected just off the coast. HOW EXCLUSIVE IS IT? Bill Gates married his wife here in 1994, but Lanai isn’t prohibitively exclusive. The Four Seasons are on the pricier side, but there are also two less expensive options on the island. HOW DO YOU GET THERE? Take a ferry from Maui. WHAT TO DO? Besides golf and lie on the beach? Hike to the otherworldly moonscape of the Garden of the Gods, go four-wheeling up to the 3,370-foot peak of Lanaihale or kayak out to the iconic Sweetheart Rock and row among the spinner dolphins. gohawaii.com/lanai EXPLORE

BEACHHARDEST-TO-FINDSYDNEY’S

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76 Oracabessa Bay, Jamaica • GoldenEye

HOW EXCLUSIVE IS IT? Anyone can go if they’ve got the means. High season rates start at $832 a night for a lagoon suite and go up to $2,280 for a cottage. For hardcore 007 buffs, Fleming’s bungalow can be had for $6,800 a night.

In 1946, James Bond creator Ian Fleming bought a piece of land on Jamaica’s northern coast, which he had fallen in love with while working as a naval intelligence ofﬁcer during World War II (one of his missions had been code-named GOLDENEYE). The spot inspired him, and he went on to write all 13 of his Bond novels in the bungalow he built here. In 1977, 14 years after Fleming died, Jamaican-born Island Records founder Chris Blackwell snatched up the property to use it as a private retreat. In the late ’80s, he expanded it and turned it into a small resort. It was closed for renovations in 2007 and reopened in October of this year.

WHAT TO DO? Laze in an outdoor tub in your shaded garden, swim in the lagoon, drink a martini or just wander the lush grounds checking out the trees planted by Blackwell guests like Johnny Depp. goldeneye.com SEA FOODS Beach fare from around the globe. Beach,LuquilloPiraguaPuerto Rico Vendors hawk these snowcones from pushcartscolorfulalong the beach. For the full tropical experience, try parcha (passion fruit) or tamarindo (tamarind).

Jake Shimabukuro, the world’s greatest ukulele player, offers his eight favorite beach tunes “Wipe Out”—The Surfaris // “It’s about getting wiped out by waves, but it’s also a great jamming song.” “Misirlou”—Dick Dale // “I played it a lot when I was a kid. It became very popular after Pulp Fiction came out.”

DESIGN WITHIN BEACH

Amankila // Bali // Opened: 1992

TRACKSSAND

Fish Ensenada,tacos

“Hallelujah”—Jeff Buckley // “If I’m sitting out and there’s a beautiful sunset, this is the song I want playing.” “Come Monday”—Jimmy Buffett // “I used to tour with Jimmy, and the ﬁrst time I played with him we played ‘Come Monday.’ It was an incredible moment.”

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Kalua Smith’s Tropical Paradise Kauai, Hawaii Smith’s hosts traditional luaus, complete with hula and fire knife dances, but the real draw is the tender kalua pig—roasted whole in an imu underground oven. Ca chien sot tieu The Palm Tree Phu Quoc, Vietnam This beach café specializes wrapping a whole fish in tin foil with peppercorns and the island’s local fish sauce, and turning out a crispy, delicate meal perfect for capping off a day at the beach.

Panormos Beach Bar Mykonos, Greece Watch the grillmaster sear the octopus over an open ﬂame, and then wash down the crispy, tender tentacles with a leisurely glass of wine or two.

“Beach in Hawaii”—Ziggy Marley // “I actually played this track with Ziggy on his album Love Is My Religion, which won a Grammy. It’s a great, chill tune.” Jake Shimabukuro’s new album, Peace Love Ukulele, comes out in January.

“In My Life”—The Beatles // “I’m on the road ten months out of the year, and whenever I’m home and I go to the beach by myself, I like to think about all the things going on in my life.”

“Surfer Girl”—The Beach Boys // “The sense of harmony Brian Wilson showed on this one goes above and beyond everyone else.”

Four of the world’s coolest seaside hotels.

Grilled octopus

Mexico This Baja port town is widely believed to be the home of this cabbage,beer-batteredoft-imitatedmagniﬁcent,concoction:cod,shreddedsourcreamandpico de gallo on a corn tortilla.

The Library // Koh Samui, Thailand // Opened: 2007 This complex of boxy, low-slung villas built around a glassfronted library balances minimalist white spaces with wooden details and splashes of color—such as a dark red swimming pool. thelibrary.co.th Hotel Básico // Playa del Carmen, Mexico // Opened: 2004 Inspired by a 1950s Mexican oil rig, Básico offers concrete walls adorned with exposed pipes and rubber curtains, rooftop cabanas fashioned out of old trucks and a row of soaking pools made of retired oil tanks overlooking the Caribbean. Still, there are more than enough softening touches to create a playful, approachable vibe. hotelbasico.com

The exterior of the main building of this secluded cliffside resort hotel is made of mossy stone, which gives the place an ancient vibe, but the heft is offset by the thatch-roofed suites and the three-tiered inﬁnity pool overlooking the Lombok Strait. amanresorts.com Club Hotel Casapueblo // Punta Ballena, Uruguay // Begun: 1958 Uruguayan painter Carlos Páez Vilaró built a small hut on this promontory outside of Punta del Este, and over the years he added to it piece by piece, as though it were a living sculpture. The end result resembles a mud nest built by an indigenous South American hornero bird. clubhotel.com.ar

BY STEPHAN TALTY // ILLUSTRATION BY JOSH COCHRAN

RANDY SMITH HAD BEEN IN MARANELLO, ITALY, touring a local factory until he knew every lathe and workbench. By the time he stepped outside one day, he was almost bored. Yes, the factory belonged to Ferrari and the engineers designed cars of unearthly beauty, and, yes, he was now on his way to a meal at one of the local restaurants that specialize in the rich cuisine of the Emilia-Romagna. But he’d been in Maranello for weeks, and behind all the red Ferrari paint, it’s actually a factory town like almost any factory town. And there is only so much prosciutto one can eat. THE INSIDE STORY OF THE RACE TO BUILD THE FASTEST, WILDEST, SCREAMINGEST ROLLER COASTER IN THE WORLD, AND HOW IT ALMOST WENT OFF THE TRACKS.

78 DECEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM ROLLER DERBY

That much track eats up acres of land, so the Formula Rossa spreads out across a footprint twice as big as the average coaster, weaving through the grounds like a metallic thread. Instead of being a standalone structure, it is fused into the park grounds. Further complicating things, the Rossa happens to be partially housed in the world’s largest indoor theme park, which clocks in at more than 900,000 square feet. This huge building is packed with shops, restaurants, authentic Ferrari simulators, a racing pit where visitors can actually change a tire on an F1 race car—even a machine shop that makes new Ferrari parts. The original design challenge was to ﬁt the coaster into this maze of attractions.

A hydraulic winch—very much like the ones used to propel jet ﬁghters off the decks of aircraft carriers— capable of generating more than 20,000 horsepower was chosen for the launch system. But acceleration generates G forces—1.7 G’s, in this case—and the only way to dissipate them would be to run the cars down long sections of gently undulating track. “The human body can withstand extreme G forces—if the time is very short,” says park manager Andy Keeling. “It can be very disturbing to accelerate that fast, but if it’s only for short periods, you’re ﬁne.”

(“Mechanical rides and loose clothing do not ﬁt together,” says Keeling drily.)

“In some places,” Smith says, “it was like threading a needle.” Smith faced other challenges peculiar to the locale. To avoid getting their eyes blasted with grit during haboobs—raging sandstorms—it was decided that all riders will wear goggles. Then there were the clothes, especially the dishdashas (or anklelength robes) of the local customers, which could easily be swept into the gears of the Formula Rossa.

The park formed work groups of local residents and Indian nationals (saris were also a concern) and came up with a very simple solution: Ferrari World provides a jacket to every customer wearing long, ﬂowing clothes. Everything in the park has an intimate connection to the Ferrari brand. There’s a facsimile of the actual 80

Then a sudden din erupted behind him. The sound was apocalyptically loud and metallic. It was so intense that Smith became convinced he was going to die. “I thought it was a car crashing,” he says. “Right behind me.” Smith pivoted to look and realized that it wasn’t a car hitting the wall behind him and tearing itself to a million pieces behind a plume of fire. It was just an Ferrari FXX braking to a stop after a test run. Smith was relieved, but the relief quickly faded. The experience only underscored the enormity of the task ahead of him. The 52-year-old American was in Italy to duplicate, in a small way, the experience of driving a Ferrari—a vehicle that, when the brakes are applied, sounds pretty much like it’s exploding. He had to make something this terrifying and strange in the shape of a roller coaster. And he had to make it safe for 10-year-olds.Smithworks for Jack Rouse Associates, which in 2005 was given the job of designing Abu Dhabi’s new Ferrari World theme park— including the Formula Rossa roller coaster. The coaster was to be the fastest on earth. But in addition to having to make the fastest coaster on earth, Smith and his fellow draftsman were faced with a variety of odd tasks, such as finding a way to keep granules of desert sand from peppering its riders as the cars accelerated during sandstorms. But first Smith had to beat another set of roller coaster designers who were at that very moment working on what they hoped would be the world’s fastest roller coaster, in Germany, at the famous Nürburgring race course. The ring°racer, as it was to be called, was scheduled to open in 2009, beating the Formula Rossa to the finish line. It was the German challenge that registered first. “When you’re trying to break new ground, you’re always nervous about something going wrong, like being beat,” says Smith. “So we were definitely aware of Nürburgring.” S&S Worldwide, the American ride designers who were given the contract for the ring°racer, announced that their new effort “would surpass all roller coaster speed records.” The gauntlet had been thrown down. In response to the ring°racer, Smith and his designers upped their target speed to nearly 150 mph. The track design they settled on was an enormous double figure eight with long straightaways settling into gentle curves that would give the ride the potential for record speeds.

dining room where Enzo Ferrari, the founder of the company, used to take his workday lunch. Mama Rossella’s, the restaurant in Maranello, where Ferrari F1 god Michael Schumacher ate when he tested out new cars, has also beenTherecreated.sameethic applies to the rides— which means the coaster cars have to somehow evoke Ferrari. It took months of computer modeling, trips to grand prix around the world and interviews with Scuderia Ferrari drivers to conjure the right emotions. One part of the solution was to rigorously avoid having the specs of the coaster cars—wheelbase, headlight size—match any specific model. That way the coaster would be of Ferrari without being of any single era. As 2009 arrived, the park and its star attraction, the Formula Rossa, was taking shape—but the German monster, the ring°racer, was sprinting ahead of them. Then disaster struck. During tests, the ring°racer suffered two serious accidents, and the opening of the ride was delayed. When it finally opens in the spring of 2011, its designers announced, the ring°racer will hit only 135 mph. The Abu Dhabi coaster was already testing at 149 mph, meaning the Ferrari Rossa had scored a double coup: It would be the first, and it would be theInfastest.themonths before its November opening, park manager Keeling and his team have been “burning in” the coaster. That is, running it hour after hour, day after day to make sure it’s completely safe. (And, for good measure, they’ve been training the ride operators to spot signs of stress and illness in riders.)

After ﬁve years of development, the ride is ﬁnally ready. And it is spectacular. The Rossa begins with a blast down a sloped track, as if you were being blown out the business end of a battleship’s guns, then launches you almost vertically up in the air until you top out at 170 feet, then plunge into a hellacious dive. “There are things you would never see or do in a normal life that you do in our park,” says Keeling. “This roller coaster is one of them.” As thrilling as it is, the Rossa’s toughest critics are waiting in the wings: members of the worldwide subculture of coaster enthusiasts. They’ve been keenly anticipating the opening of the Abu Dhabi machine. “Speed and acceleration are what makes it special,” says Justin Garvanovic, founder of the European Coaster Club. “It will be an amazing, mind-blowing coaster.”

The Formula Rossa will impress even the discriminating rider, but the race to be the fastest inevitably brings up the question: How long will it hold the record? The answer hinges not on technology but on money, since these coasters are enormously expensive to design and build. “Rides like these are huge badges of honor,” says Garanovic, “and they put you on the map.” Which means follow the money to ﬁnd the next world record–beater. Like the Rossa, it most likely won’t be in America. “It will be a new park,” predicts Garanovic. “And I’ll bet it will be in DespiteChina.”the persistent pressure to be fastest, the Ferrari Rossa team isn’t worried about Beijing overtaking them just yet. Instead, they’re having a brief victory lap and enjoying the perks that come with wearing Ferrari red. Though the park was kept under tight wraps until its opening in early November, Keeling managed to sneak in his ﬁve-year-old daughter to try out one of the park’s less threatening rides. Her response? Three words: “Again, Daddy. Again.” When it comes to Ferraris, writer STEPHAN TALTY prefers to drive, not ride.

“THERE ARE THINGS YOU WOULD NEVER SEE OR DO IN A NORMAL LIFE THAT YOU DO IN OUR PARK,” SAYS FERRARI WORLD PARK MANAGER ANDY KEELING. “THIS ROLLER COASTER IS ONE OF THEM.”

81 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2010

SÃO PAULO With a population close to 11 million, Brazil’s (decidedly non-Rio) urban powerhouse blends the exuberance of South America with the poise and sophistication of old Europe. BY STEPHAN TALTY // PHOTOGRAPHS BY RAYMOND PATRICK Three Perfect Days 84 DAY ONE Visiting “Beco do Batman” 86 DAY TWO Wandering neighborhoodsthe 88 DAY THREE Hitting a forró dance club GOSPEL OF SÃO PAULO Pinacoteca do Estado; opposite, Basilica de Nossa Senhora da Assuncão. 82

83 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2010

RIO MAY OFFER the flash, but São Paulo, with its Latin motto non ducor, duco (“I am not led, I lead”), is where you’ll find the sophistication, the power and the future of Brazil. Founded by Jesuits in the 16th century, the city grew rapidly over the next 300 years into a center for the coffee trade before its merchants—many from families that originated in Italy, Portugal and Germany—branched out into heavy industry, banking and financial services. Its population has since mushroomed to 11 million, making it the biggest city in South America. But what makes “Sampa” (the affectionate nickname for the city) truly a world-class metropolis is how the city’s fathers have managed to keep it surprisingly livable. They’ve blended the monumental and the intimate, the cutting-edge and the folk, the European and the South American. Within the crowded, sprawling megalopolis you’ll find serene parks studded with startling modernist sculptures, restaurants that take Brazil’s beef-dominated culinary traditions and advance them with flourishes from around the world and, of course, teeming clubs that blend Brazil’s bossa nova breeze with the unrelenting thump of modern dance music. With the power and glamour of a cosmopolitan city, but minus the neon-lit ego, São Paulo doesn’t beguile you like Rio or assault you like New York. It sizes you up then smiles and invites you over for a caipirinha.

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAINTING THE TOWN Top, a bodega proprietor; above, Pinacoteca do Estado; opposite, the view from the Hotel Unique, home of Skye Bar.

DAY ONE You wake up in the elegant Meliá Jardim Europa (1), a sleek concrete and glass affair in the heart of the busy Itaim Bibi neighborhood. The Meliá is a serious hotel, with tycoons in $3,000 suits making billion-dollar deals in the posh, minimalist lobby, so leave the flip-flops upstairs. Step outside and hail a taxi for the Benjamin Abrahão Mundo dos Paes (2), a legendary bakery. Grab a croissant and a cup of dark local coffee, then grab a taxi and follow the natives into the Centro, the gritty heart of São Paulo. Your first stop is the century-old Teatro Municipal (3). The building’s gorgeous baroque interior—including a chandelier made of 7,000 Belgian crystals—was the site of the 1 NATÁLIA SADI // CONCIERGE // “My favorite place is the Parque do Ibirapuera. Inside, there are four museums you can stroll through. Or you can rent a bike and ride around the beautiful lake. It’s such a peaceful and friendly place.” BY PETER JAMES FIELD

In need of a snack, you head across the square to Cafe Girondino (5), a faithful recreation of one of the famous Centro hotspots favored by the noisy bohemian types who roamed the streets at the start of the 20th century. You scarf down a slice of Girondino’s delicious torta húngara topped with chocolate shavings and cherries while surveying the crowd—mainly bearded artists and the tourists they hope will buy their work. You walk over to Rua 25 de Marco (6), a throbbing avenue packed with shouting vendors selling everything from trinkets to folk art, and pick up a handcrafted tourmaline necklace as a gift. The indigenous semiprecious crystals come in greens and blues so brilliant they seem to glow.

By now that torta has worn off, and you’re ready for lunch. Hop a taxi and head to the fabulous Obá (7), whose Mexican-born owner, Hugo Delgado, travels regularly to Thailand, Mexico and Italy to ﬁnd inspiration—and spices—for his restaurant. You ask for the English-language menu (a rarity in São Paulo) and choose the salty, sundried carne seca, a northeastern Brazilian pork specialty. For dessert: the bolinha, fried tapioca dusted with almond. It’s so good you take a picture of it with your cellphone and beg Delgado for the recipe. He only smiles.

3PD SÃO PAULO

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GET YOUR KICKS IN SAMPA, SOCCER IS LIFE, AND LIFE IS GOOD Brazil still produces some of the most inventive players on the planet (even if the national team is notorious for choking in the World Cup). The best way to experience the sport in São Paulo is to catch a game at one of the city’s stadiums, like Morumbi or Pacaembu. The latter, built in 1940, also houses an enormous soccer museum under its stands. There you can witness a life-size Pelé charging at you on a giant screen. Just remember he likes to go right.

revolutionary 1922 exhibit “Week of Modern Art,” which helped launch Brazilian modernism, a stylistic blend of the European masters and Brazil’s more primitivist native traditions.

DAY TWO Today, you take the city by foot. Though São Paulo is sprawling and often clogged with cars, it’s very walkable, so you wander through the Jardim Paulista neighborhood and grab a hearty egg-and-sausage breakfast at Saint Germain (1), which features pictures of the meals on the wall—making things a lot easier for non-Portuguese speakers. Afterward, set out on a long meander toward the eclectic Vila Madalena neighborhood. You come upon Cemitério Santissimo Sacramento (2), where exquisitely carved statues adorn the crypts of some of the city’s great families. If you head straight up the path, you’ll ﬁnd the most powerful work near the top of the hill: a statue of a father sitting at a table with his son, head bent in sorrow, and an empty seat for the missing mother. Before things get glum, however, 2

PLÍNIO LOIOLA ARRES // CHEF // “A bar called A Lanterna on Rua Fidalga is the best place to hear great Brazilian pop music, which we call ‘MPB.’ If you want to dance, it’s an absolute must.”

You visit Sampa’s leading museum, Pinacoteca do Estado de São Paulo (8) and stroll among the Rodins. Then finding yourself suddenly in need of some streetlevel culture, you hail a cab for “Beco do Batman” (9), a street famous for its walls and alleyways adorned with eye-popping graffiti. Among the sprawling mythical creatures and political allegories are some of the most vibrant spray-can works south of the Bronx. Continuing with the art theme, you take another cab to dinner at the charming Mercearia do Conde (10), the rafters of which are festooned with paintings and crafts by local artists. Order the fantastic beef medallions with mustard sauce and have a gander at the art on the walls, all of which is for sale. Pick up a Santeriainspired statuette of a white chicken and take it back to the hotel, where you grab a seat at a table next to one of the outdoor fountains and order a caipirinha, the traditional Brazilian cocktail made with cachaça, sugar and lime. You say “Obrigado” (Portuguese for “thank you”) to your server, finish your drink and retire to bed.

To get a look at what those rebel artists were freeing themselves from, walk over to the Basilica de Nossa Senhora da Assuncão (4), a beautifully somber church where every morning you can hear the vaulted central chamber thrum to the sound of organ and Gregorian chant. It’s here that you feel Sampa’s connection with Old World Europe most profoundly.

THE SAMPA LIFE Clockwise from top left, gazpacho and garlic bread at Adega Santiago; Trianon Park; Cafe Girondino; Basilica de Nossa Senhora da Assuncão; opposite, Pacaembu Stadium; and Obá.

Clockwise from above, hot chocolate at Benjamin Abrahão Mundo dos Paes; Melía Jardim Europa; Madame Valentine shoe store on Melo Alves Street; Quixote and Panza rendered in cans. Boarding pass Fly United to Brazil’s most modern city and experience the vibrant energy of São Paulo’s people and culture.

QUIXOTIC QUEST

a surprisingly festive funeral party arrives, with attendees who are laughing andSãosmiling.Paulo is renowned for its street food, so you duck into one of the many corner bars and order a plate of pasteles—delicious deep-fried pastries stuffed with spiced beef and chicken—along with a local Brahma beer to cool off. Next, you make a beeline for the Ímã Foto Galeria (3), where you peruse the work of Rosa Gauditano, who specializes in lighthearted photographs of indigenous Brazilian tribespeople, and the austere pictures of Bangladeshi-born Alan Nielsen, with his anonymous subjects caught in contemplative poses. For dinner, you head to Astor (4), a thriving bistro inspired by classic New York brasseries. Order the delicious picadinho Astor, with a poached egg over cubes of steak, white rice and scrumptious bananas. As the waiters and the fashionably dressed regulars gaze up at a soccer game on TV and mutter imprecations against various players, you drink in the place’s Prohibition-style dark woods, red upholstery and white-and-black floors. Deciding you’ve had enough high art for today and need some guilty pleasure, you journey over to the Skye Bar (5) at the top of the famous watermelon-shaped Hotel Unique. On the roof, you find a scenester’s paradise, with trust-fund travelers, filmmakers and moguls gulping down pricey cocktails. You grab a seat and watch the sun go down as the house music thumps and the up-and-coming model to your left turns to give you the eye. Then, you float back to the Meliá on the drifting fumes of rum and sleep peacefully.

DAY THREE You’ve saved one of the classic São Paulo neighborhoods for last: Jardim Paulista. You walk out of the hotel lobby and head for Avenida Europa (1), admiring the incredible townhouses (and the mouthwatering sedans at the local Aston Martin dealership). Sixty percent of Brazil’s millionaires live in Sampa, and this is their domain. Head over to Avenida Paulista and slip into the neighborhood’s gem, Trianon Park (2), a two-acre sanctuary that opened in 1892

3 88

STEPHAN TALTY’s lone foray into soccer resulted in an immediate red card.

90 DECEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

Recognizing that your time in Sampa would be incomplete without a proper night out, you grab a taxi back to the hotel, change into jeans and a white linen shirt, and pay a visit to Ó Do Borogodo (7), the premier club for partido alto samba or forró dance music. As you dance in the sweaty club packed with young people, you can’t help but think that São Paulo has grown rich and earned the status of a world-class powerhouse city— but without sacriﬁcing its roots, its impish sense of humor, or, perhaps most important, its quintessentially Brazilian commitment to a good time.

and is thick with palm trees and sculpture. You stumble on an austere statue of a faun by the Italian-Brazilian modernist master Victor Brecheret, and sit on the wooden bench across the way to admire it. Young lovers on benches and retirees with their folded copies of the O Globo newspaper soak in the quiet. You walk over to the mall and art space underneath Conjunto Nacional (3). Take a picture of the enormous statues of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza, painstakingly created out of 2,000 empty Coke cans and 4,000 bottle caps by native artists Silvia Galvão and Sandro Rodrigues. This obvious yet good-natured dig at American capitalism, in the middle of a mall filled with American products, is touched with a subversive Sampa wit. Famished, you jump into a taxi and head to Chácara Santa Cecilio (4). This sprawling restaurant has the feel of a Brazilian farmhouse: huge beams, a slate roof, enormous trees growing right through the floor and the smell of well-spiced meat in the air. As you chew a savory filet in a sweet sauce made from the fruit of the jaboticaba tree, you bask in the din of the exuberant crowd around you. It’s time to shop. You pop into the eponymous store of cutting-edge local designer Adriana Degreas (5), who got her start in swimwear and now does highly Brazilian things like combine a short fur jacket with a black bikini. Spend the afternoon window-shopping at the other highend shops clustered around Melo Alves, then head to Adega Santiago (6) and drink in the rustic splendor of the packed wood-oven restaurant with Brazilian jazz playing discreetly in the background. In need of a break from the beef-centric gastronomy of Brazil, you savor the excellent shredded codfish with eggs and roasted potatoes.

ISABELLA DAELLI // PUBLICIST // “On Sundays, I stroll through the Vila Madalena neighborhood. There are great restaurants with outdoor tables where you can sit and talk or just watch the sun set. It’s a beautiful way to spend a warm afternoon.”

AMPLE PARKING Right, the rear gardens at the Pinacoteca do Estado museum; below, members of Mancha Verde samba school dance during the Carnival Champions Parade in February.

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LIFE’S A PARADE CARNIVAL NEVER STOPS IN SÃO PAULO Carnival, which takes place just before Catholic Lent, is an import from Rio, where it began in 1641 as an imitation of Paris’ elaborate balls. All year long in São Paulo, neighborhood escolas de samba (samba schools) work feverishly to come up with the wild costumes and dance steps that culminate in the Sambadrome parade. Beginning in September, the schools practice their routines every week— giving tourists a chance to watch, for a small fee, the beginnings of the joyful madness.

THOSE THREE PERFECT DAYS DAY ONE (1) Melía Jardim Europa Rua João Cachoeira, 107; Tel: 3702-9600 (2) Benjamin Abrahão Mundo dos Paes Rua Marãnhao, 220; Tel: 3258-1855 (3) Teatro Municipal Praca Ramos de Azevedo; Tel: 3397-0300 (4) Basilica de Nossa Senhora da Assuncão Lg. De São Bento; Tel: 3328-8799 (5) Cafe Girondino Rua Boa Vista, 365; Tel: 3229-4574 (6) Rua 25 de Marco (7) Obá Rua Dr. Melo Alves, 205; Tel: 3086-4774 (8) Pinacoteca do Estado de São Paulo Praca da Luz, 2; Tel: 3324-1000 (9) “Beco do Batman” Rua Goncalo Alonso (10) Mercearia do Conde Rua Joaquim Antunes, 217; Tel: 3081-7204 DAY TWO (1) Saint Germain Rua Manoel Guedes, 110; Tel: 3167-5400 (2) Cemitério Santissimo Sacramento (3) Imã Foto Galeria Rua Fradique Coutinho, 1239; Tel: 3816-1290 (4) Astor Rua Delﬁna, 163; Tel: 3816-6413 (5) Skye Bar Av. Brig Luis Antonio, 4700; Tel: 3055-4702 DAY THREE (1) Avenida Europa (2) Trianon Park Rua Peixoto Gomide, 949 (3) Conjunto Nacional 2073 Av. Paulista (4) Chácara Santa Cecilio Rua Ferraira Araújo, 601; Tel: 3034-3910 (5) Adriana Degreas Rua Dr. Melo Alves, 734; Tel: 3064-4300

(6) Adega Santiago Rua Sampaio Vidal, 1072; Tel: 3081-5211 (7) Ó Do Borogodo Rua Horácio Lane, 21; Tel: 3814-4087 91 0.5 mile Av.Pompéia Av.Sumaré Av.Pacaembu R.HeitorPenteadoAv.PauloVIAv.RebouçasAv.NovedeJulhoAv.Brasil Av.Paulista Av.Brg.FariaLimaAv.dasNaçõesUnidasAv. Pres . JuscelinoKubitschek Vd.Dr.PliniodeQuierosR.daConsolaçãoVevd.Pres. ArturdaCostaESilvaAv.RioBrancoAv.VinteeTresdeMaio Sao Paulo 1 2 3 45 6 77 8 9 10 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 6

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’TIS THE SEASON to be jolly…and shop, shop, shop. Research shows that 50 percent of you will do all of your holiday shopping this month, racking up a grand total in the hundreds of billions of dollars. You’ll probably spend close to $700 yourself, based on research from the National Retail Federation. So where does it all go? What will you spend your hundreds of hard-earned dollars on? Whether you’re looking to spend a little or a lot, it really is the thought that counts. When you’ve really given to consideration to what your recipients love and might be looking for—from jewelry to gadgetry to sweet treats. The tricky part can be figuring out exactly what that is. We’ve put together a collection of some of the most sought-after gifts on the market right now. Maybe you’ll look at one of them and think “That’s the one!,” or maybe it will just give you some ideas about what you should be looking for. Whatever the case, we hope this guide takes some of the pressure out of finding the perfect gifts, and we hope that your holiday season— whichever holiday you celebrate—is filled with love and laughter.

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Bill Murray dresses up to Get Low DECEMBER 2010 ENTERTAINMENT 102 Films & Television 120 Audio Programming 124 Crossword 126 Sudoku INFORMATION 108 United Destinations 112 Terminal Diagrams 117 Alliances & Partnerships 119 Customs & Immigration 138 Food & Beverages

TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION DECEMBER 1-15 Eat Pray Love [T] DECEMBER 16-31 Charlie S t. Cloud [T] DECEMBER 1-15 The Office [T] House [T] Cash Cab DE CEMBER 16-31 The 30ChuckMiddleRock[T] DECEMBER 1-15 The Switch [T] DECEMBER 16-31 Ge t Low [T] Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii DECEMBER 1-15 30 Rock TheParenthood[T]Simpsons [T] Sports Jobs with Junior Seau DECEMBER 16-31 The Big Bang Theory [T] The Good Guys [T] How I Met Your Mother Friends DE CEMBER 1-15 Charlie St. Cloud [T] DECEMBER 16-31 E at Pray Love [T] Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii DECEMBER 1-15 The Office [T] House [T] Cash Cab Frasier DECEMBER 16-31 The Arrested30ChuckMiddleRock[T]Development [T] DE CEMBER 1-15 Eat Pray Love [T] DECEMBER 16-31 Charlie S t. Cloud [T] DECEMBER 1-15 The Simpsons [T] Psych [T] Sports Jobs with Junior Seau Friends DECEMBER 16-31 The Big Bang Theory [T] The Closer [T] House [T] DECEMBER 1-15 Ge t Low [T] DECEMBER 16-31 The Switch [T] DECEMBER 1-15 The Office Biography[T] How I Met Your Mother How Do They Do It? DECEMBER 16-31 Parks andMonkRecreation Friday Night Lights &MEXICOHAWAIIAMERICANORTHCARIBBEAN DECEMBER 1-15 Get Low [T] DECEMBER 16-31 The Switch [T] DECEMBER 1-15 30 Rock TheParenthood[T]Simpsons [T] DECEMBER 16-3 1 The Big Bang Theory [T] The Good Guys [T] How I Met Your Mother &FILMTELEVISION FILMS ARE SHOWN ONLY on flights of three hours or longer. Movies available on most 747, 757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft flights. Schedules and selections are subject to change. International Language Tracks / (S) Películas están disponsibles en Español en todas las rutas domesticas en el canal 10. FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISIONSOUTHBOUND NORTHBOUND EASTBOUND WESTBOUND GET IN TOUCH What do you think of our programming? We’re open to suggestions. Please send them to play@united.com or visit united.com/play.

CHARLIE ST. CLOUD [T]

This mix of folklore and fact is based on the true story of Felix Breazeale, a Tennessee recluse who planned his own funeral while he was still alive so he could enjoy it.

The bright future of an accomplished sailor in the Paciﬁc Northwest is cut short when tragedy strikes and takes his dreams with it. But after his high school classmate returns home unexpectedly, Charlie is torn between honoring a promise he made four years earlier and moving forward with newfound love.

FEATURING Robert Duvall, Bill Murray, Sissy Spacek

A smart, fun-loving single woman decides it’s time to have a baby even if it means doing it by herself, albeit with a little help from a charming sperm donor. But, unbeknownst to her, her neurotic best friend Wally made a last-minute switch and is really the father of her precocious and somewhat neurotic son.

EAT PRAY LOVE [T]

DIRECTED BY Burr Steers

At a crossroads after a divorce, Liz Gilbert takes a yearlong sabbatical from her job and risks everything to change her life. In her exotic travels, she experiences the simple pleasure of nourishment by eating in Italy, the power of prayer in India and the inner peace and balance of love in Bali.

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR AIRLINE USE. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to our customers in choosing whether to view a ﬁlm.

103HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DE CEMBER 2010

DIRECTED BY Aaron Schneider

“There’s an interesting story in there somewhere about nature and nurture, and the pros and cons of being clever or merely good-looking.”—Daily Telegraph

1 hr. 42 min.

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME TO VIEW their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

GET LOW [T]

THE SWITCH [T]

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

FEATURING Julia Roberts, Javier Bardem DIRECTED BY Ryan Murphy 2 hrs.1 hr. 39 min.

FEATURING Zac Efron, Kim Basinger

“It’s about something important, the search for meaning and happiness, about ﬁnding one’s inner life amid the clutter and confusion of modern existence.”—San Francisco Chronicle

“After you get to a certain point with an actor, you don’t much care what he does, you just want to watch him doing it. So it is with [Robert] Duvall and [Bill] Murray.” Chicago Sun-Times

“[Burr] Steers takes his time and it pays off in Efron’s subdued performance, earnest and yearning.”— Philadelphia Inquirer

FEATURING Jennifer Aniston, Jason Bateman, Patrick Wilson DIRECTED BY Josh Gordon, Will Speck 1 hr. 42 min.

30 ROCK [T]

The views contained in the video content are not necessarily those of United.

THE MIDDLE [T]

ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT/PERSONAL DEVICES

Grizz is left in an awkward position when both Tracy and Dot Com want to be his best man; Jenna has a new boyfriend, but Liz and Pete question his motives; and Jack receives an odd inheritance.

CASH CAB

PARENTHOOD [T] When Max rejoins the baseball team, Drew helps Adam connect with his son. Sarah becomes friends with Amber’s English teacher, and Crosby feels the pressure to have a baby sooner than he expected.

THE BIG BANG THEORY [T]

&FILMTELEVISION TELEVISION DESCRIPTIONS

To better ﬁt in with several of Penny’s friends from back home, Leonard learns about football…from Sheldon. Meanwhile, a loss in a kite war threatens to end Raj and Howard’s friendship.

The unassuming enter the Cash Cab as passengers taking a normal taxi ride, only to be shocked when they discover that they’re contestants on Discovery Channel’s innovative game show.

United Airlines strives to make its customer experience safe and comfortable and accordingly has issued the following in regard to the use of electronic equipment/personal devices onboard its aircraft. However, the following is not a contract and does not create any legal rights or obligations. Certain electronic devices may not be used on our planes for safety reasons. Such devices may cause electromagnetic interference with cockpit navigation or communications systems during ground operations and while the aircraft is ﬂying below 10,000 feet. However, when an aircraft is traveling above 10,000 feet (normally about 10 minutes after takeoff), passengers can use many of the devices listed. Hearing aids, heart pacemakers and watches are acceptable at all times. These electronic devices can be used in the cabin, but may not be used during takeoff and landing: Calculators; handheld computer games; shavers; portable CD and tape players; laptop computers/ accessory printers/tape drives; portable VCRs/video players These electronic devices cannot be used on the airplane at any time: Cellular phones (cellular phones maybe used on the plane at the gate before the aircraft door is closed or at captain’s discretion when the plane is away from the gate and on the ground); televisions; AM/FM transmitters-receivers; remote-controlled toys

Rehearsing for her church’s midnight mass, Frankie becomes jealous when it seems that Mike is doing a better job at organizing the Heck family Christmas than she would have done.

In addition, United Airlines has an onboard photography and video policy. Customers who bring personal audio and video equipment onboard may only use these items with headsets. Noise-canceling headsets may be activated. The use of still and video cameras, ﬁlm or digital, including any cellular or other devices that have this capability, is permitted only for recording of personal events. However, photography, audio or video recording of other customers without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited. Also, unauthorized photography, audio or video recording of airline personnel, aircraft equipment or procedures is always prohibited. Any voice, audio, video or other photography (motion or still), recording or transmission while on any United Airlines aircraft is strictly prohibited, except to the extent speciﬁcally permitted by United Airlines.

UAL Corporation October 2009.

CHUCK [T] Before twentysomething computer geek–turned–government spy Chuck can become an ofﬁcial CIA operative, Sarah and Shaw must grade him on his last test.

DON’T GO INTO INTERNATIONAL MARKETS WITHOUT THE PROPER EQUIPMENT. Translation, Interpretation, and Multicultural Marketing Litigation Support and Electronic Data Discovery Online Document Collaboration and Virtual Data Rooms Global and Multilingual Staffing To find out more about how TransPerfect can support you in global markets, contact us at info@transperfect.com or visit us online at www.transperfect.com.

&FILMTELEVISION B747 MAINSCREEN PROGRAMMING INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Synchronisierte Versionen finden Sie auf Kanal 2 und 3 (wenn verfügbar). (J) (C) (K) 채널 2,3에서 더빙버전이 제공됩니다 &THAILANDHONGCHINAKOREA&JAPANSOUTH&KONGTAIWANGERMANYAUSTRALIA *Thailand flights only *Japan flights only Get Low [T] 1 hr. 42 min. TV 2 hrs. The Switch [T] 1 hr. 42 min. The Sorcerer’s Apprentice [T] 1 hr. 49 min. TV 2 hrs. Despicable Me 1 hr. 35 min. TV 2 hrs. Eat Pray Love [T] 2 hrs. Charlie St. Cloud [T] 1 hr. 39 min. TV 2 hrs. Flipped [T] 1 hr. 30 min. Ramona and Beezus 1 hr. 43 min. TV 2 hrs. Get Low [T] 1 hr. 42 min. The Switch [T] 1 hr. 42 min. TV 2 hrs. The Sorcerer’s Apprentice [T] 1 hr. 49 min. TV* 2 hrs. Despicable Me 1 hr. 35 min. TV 2 hrs. Get Low [T] 1 hr. 42 min. The Switch [T] 1 hr. 42 min. TV 2 hrs. The Sorcerer’s Apprentice [T] 1 hr. 49 min. Despicable Me 1 hr. 35 min. TV 4 hrs. Grown Ups [T] 1 hr. 40 min. The Sorcerer’s Apprentice* [T] 1 hr. 49 min. TV 4 hrs. Get Low [T] 1 hr. 42 min. The Switch [T] 1 hr. 42 min. TV 2 hrs. The Sorcerer’s Apprentice [T] 1 hr. 49 min. Despicable Me 1 hr. 35 min. TV 2 hrs. Eat Pray Love [T] 2 hrs. Charlie St. Cloud [T] 1 hr. 39 min. Flipped [T] 1 hr. 30 min. TV 2 hrs. Ramona and Beezus 1 hr. 43 min. TV 4 hrs. Eat Pray Love [T] 2 hrs. Charlie St. Cloud [T] 1 hr. 39 min. TV 2 hrs. Flipped [T] 1 hr. 30 min. Ramona and Beezus 1 hr. 43 min. TV 2 hrs. TV* 2 hrs. Eat Pray Love [T] 2 hrs. Charlie St. Cloud [T] 1 hr. 39 min. TV 2 hrs. Flipped [T] 1 hr. 30 min. Ramona and Beezus 1 hr. 43 min. TV 4 hrs. Toy Story 3 1 hr. 43 min. Flipped* [T] 1 hr. 30 min. TV 4 hrs. Grown Ups [T] 1 hr. 40 min. TV 4 hrs. Toy Story 3 1 hr. 43 min. TV 4 hrs.VIETNAMSINGAPORE TV 4 hrs. TV 4 hrs. TO U.S. TO U.S. TO U.S. TO U.S. TO JAPAN TO HONG KONG FROM U.S. FROM U.S. FROM U.S. FROM U.S. FROM JAPAN FROM HONG KONG

NOVEMBER MOVIES RamonaFlipped and Beezus Despicable Me The Sorcerer’s Apprentice JANUARY MOVIES

Digital media loading occurs between the 25th and 5th of each month. As a result, please understand if your ﬂight features a different lineup before and after the start of each month.

FEATURING Adam Sandler, Kevin James, Chris Rock DIRECTED BY Dennis Dugan 1 hr. 47 min.

GROWN UPS [T] Five still-immature friends and former basketball teammates reunite to honor the passing of their childhood basketball coach.

Life As We Know It The Social Network Wall MoneyStreet:Never Sleeps You Again PLAY Bill Murray plays fastA

THE APPRENTICESORCERER’S [T] Master sorcerer Balthazar can’t save Manhattan from his arch-nemesis alone, so he recruits Dave Stutler, a seemingly average guy, to be his protégé.

FEATURING Nicolas Cage, Jay Baruchel DIRECTED BY Jon Turteltaub FLIPPED [T] Bryce does everything he can to keep his wannabe girlfriend at arm’s length, but if Juli ﬁ nally looks away, will it be Bryce’s turn to be dazzled?

RAMONA AND BEEZUS

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

The adventures of young Ramona Quimby come to life in this all-new ﬁlm based on the best-selling books by Beverly Cleary.

CHARACTERREAL YOUR COMPLETE GUIDE TO MOVIES, TV SHOWS, MUSIC AND PREMIUM SEAT COMFORT ABOARD UNITED IF YOUR AIRCRAFT IS EQUIPPED with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket. 107HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DE CEMBER 2010

TOY STORY 3 When Woody, Buzz and the gang are left at Sunnyside Daycare Center, at the mercy of a horde of sticky-ﬁngered kids, they’re left with no choice but to plot their escape. VOICES BY Tom Hanks, Tim Allen, Joan Cusack DIRECTED BY Lee Unkrich 2 hrs. 1 hr. 49 min.

VOICES BY Steve Carell, Jason Segel, Russell Brand DIRECTED BY Pierre Cofﬁn 1 hr. 35 min.

DESPICABLE ME A deplorable villain’s plot to steal the moon is thwarted by a trio of orphan girls who temporarily come under his care and won’t leave.

FEATURING Joey King, Selena Gomez DIRECTED BY Elizabeth Allen 1 hr. 43 min.

FEATURING Madeline Carroll, Callan McAuliffe DIRECTED BY Rob Reiner 1 hr. 30 min.

050100150 Miles 050100150200 Kilometers 0 100200300400 Miles 0100200300400500600 Kilometers Sand PrinceSpit Rupert Terrace Smithers Fort St. John Fort McMurrayPrince KamloopsGeorgeKelownaNanaimo PentictonCastlegarCranbrookLethbridgeMedicine Hat Thund Grande Prairie Vancouver Edmonton Calgary Winnipeg Victoria SaskatoonRegina Cullaton Lake Ennadai Lake PortlandSeattle Boise San Jose Las Vegas LOS ANGELES San Diego SAN FRANCISCO Oakland DENVER Sacramento Salt Lake Phoenix/ScottsdaleTucsonCity Albuquerque Colorado Springs (INTERCONTINENTAL)HOUSTONSan AntonioDallas/FortWorth Kansas City Omaha OklahomaAustinCity Bozeman Orange County Tulsa El Paso Honolulu Kahului MinneapolisCedarRapids/IowaMoinesDes Springfield Spokane WichitaLincoln Missoula Rapid City Reno/Tahoe Jackson Hole Kona Burbank MontroseSpringsSteamboatHayden/ButteCrestedGunnison/Vail/Eagle Fargo Gillette Rock Springs Crescent City Eureka AspenCarlsbadBakersfieldChico YellowstoneCody/ CasperFresnoEugene FallsSioux JunctionGrand Medford Pasco Palm Springs Santa Barbara InyokernImperialSanMontereyLuisObispoSantaMaria Yuma Modesto Redmond Redding Bismarck ArkansasNorthwest Great Falls RockLittle Billings Helena FallsKlamath North Bend OdessaMidland/ Durango HarlingenBrownsvilleCorpusChristiMcAllenLaredo LubbockAmarillo Dallas (Love) Waco College Station AlexandriaLafayette VictoriaTylerPt.Beaumont/CharlesLakeShreveportArthur LiberalDodge CityGreat BendGarden City Hays Salina Prescott Hilo LakeMoses Oxnard Santa RosaLong Beach Flagstaff St. George Ontario Idaho Falls Kalispell DuluthAlamosaLaramieScottsbluffChadronAllianceMcAllenLaredoMinotPierreKearneyHuronMcCookPuebloFarmingtonCortezTellurideLakePage/Powell Show Low Moab WorlandSheridan DickinsonMilesGlasgowSidneyCityWillistonLewistown HiloMercedVisaliaKapalua IslandGrand Vernal Burlington North Platte Cheyenne Riverton to Anchorage Killeen Del Rio Mammoth Lakes Hobbs ROUTE MAPS NORTH AMERICAN CITIES Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path United/United Express Route United Seasonal Service United Future Service Continental Future Service United Hub (Red All Caps) Continental Hub (Blue All Caps) Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Continental/Continental Express/ Continental Connection Route Continental Seasonal Service Time zone boundary CITYCITY

Mont Tremblant MonctonPresque Isle Thunder Bay Sault MarieSte. North BayTimminsSudburySarniaRouyn-Noranda Kingston Mont-Joli Gaspe CharlottetownBathurstFredericton Saint John Sydney Goose Bay Deer Lake Gander Îles de la Madeliene WindsorToronto Halifax Ottawa London City Saguenay Bangor OrlandoMiamiWest Palm BeachCharlestonSpartanburgGreenville/Savannah Baltimore LouisvilleBirminghamMemphisMilwaukee Philadelphia St. Louis Tampa/St. Petersburg Charlotte CLEVELAND Detroit Jacksonville OrleansNew New York (La Guardia) (J.F. Norfolk/VirginiaKennedy)BeachAlbany Atlanta Boston ColumbusColumbiaNashville RichmondRaleigh/Durham WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) SpringfieldHartford/ Cincinnati ProvidencePortland NEW YORK (NEWARK) Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem LexingtonGrandRapids Ft.SyracuseLauderdale/HollywoodKnoxvilleNiagaraBuffalo/Falls Manchester Ft. Myers Indianapolis Minneapolis Dayton Allentown Madison Pittsburgh FoxAppleton/Cities Burlington IowaRapids/CedarCity Wausau WayneFt. Green Bay PlainsWhite Lansing Moline Rochester MishawakaBend/Elkhart/South Springfield Charleston Traverse CityAkron/Canton CollegeStateWilkesScrantonBarre/Charlottesville Roanoke Springfield (Reagan National) Peoria AshevilleAugusta Pensacola Myrtle Fayetteville/Ft.Beach Bragg GainesvilleHilton Head Island DecaturHuntsville/ Jacksonville Long Island/Islip New Bern Tri-Cities Regional WilmingtonNewport News/Williamsburg Greenville RockLittle Altoona MorgantownBeckleyJohnstownShenandoahValleyClarksburg Hamilton Chattanooga BiloxiGulfport/ Huntington New Haven Williamsport JacksonMobileMontgomery NewburghSalisbury Ft. BeachWalton Florence Paducah RougeBaton DaytonaeveportexandriaafayetteMonroe Erie SaginawMidland/FlintParkersburg LynchburgElmira HyannisBarHarborAugustaPresque Nassau Tallahassee TreasureCatCayIslandAndros Town NantucketBinghamtonHarrisburgIthaca Duluth Muskegon Eau Claire Houghton Key West BurlingtonWaynesville BiminiFreeport George MarshNorthTownEleutheraGovernorsHarbourHarbour Sarasota/BradentonLewisburgFranklinJamestownDuboisBradfordClearfieldMelbournePlattsburgh Providenciales New York (Penn BostonStation)(Liberty)Newark New HavenTrainWashington,PhiladelphiaDCStamfordWilmingtonRoutes Codeshare / OnePass Service OnePass Eligible Service to Denver to San Francisco WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES)to Houston Presque IsleThunderSaultBay MarieSte. North Bay TimminsSarniaSudburyRouyn-NorandaKingston Baie-Comeau Mont-JoliGaspe Charlottetown Bathurst Fredericton Saint John Sydney Deer Lake Gander Îles de la Madeliene Windsor Bagotville City Halifax TorontoOttawaLondon CLEVELAND Mont Tremblant Moncton NEW YORK (NEWARK) 109HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DE CEMBER 2010

Okayama Kota QingdaoDalianKinabaluHarbinChangchunShenyangZhengzhou Nanning Okinawa Kuala Lumpur UlaanbataarTianjin ChongqingGuangzhouChangshaXiamenHangzhouFuzhouNanjingChengdu Wuhan Wenzhou KunmingGuiyang ShenzhenMacau HanoiVientianeChiang YangonMaiPhuketPhnom Penh Penang Jakarta Denpasar Bali Luzon Island Miyazaki KumamotoPusanKagoshimaNagasaki Matsuyama OitaIshigakiPyongyang Kochi Cheju Baotou Rarotonga Rotorua Brisbane ChristchurchAucklandWellington Perth DarwinAdelaide Tamworth Palmerstown BlenheimNapier-HastingsNorthNoumeaNelsonNorfolkIslandPortVila Nuku’ Alofa Apia PagoNiuePago Komatsu Bandar Seri BegawanCebu Chiang Rai Haikou Hat Yai Hefei Hamilton Krabi Khabarovsk KhonGuilinKaen Ningbo Gold Coast Papeete Hiroshima Fukuoka SendaiNagoyaSapporoNiigataOsaka Saipan Majuro GUAM Yap Palau Chuuk (Truk) Pohnpei KosraeKwajalein Manilla Nadi Kahului Anchorage (INTERCONTINENHOUSTONCountyOrange ChihuahuaTorreonDurangoSaltillo MonterreyTampicoAguascalientes Ixtapa/ZihuatanejoManzanilloTolucaAcapulcoOaxacaPueblaHuatulcoVillahermosaVeracruzQueretaroGuatemalaCitySanSalvadorManaguaMorelia Seattle HongBeijingShanghaiKong Cairns Honolulu Puerto Vallarta Mexico City Los Cabos TOKYO Seoul Ho Chi Minh City(Saigon) Bangkok Singapore Taipei SAN FRANCISCOLOSANGELES (O’HARE)CHICAGO DENVER LosVallartaCabos Sydney Melbourne GutiérrezTuxtlaGuadalajara Austin San Antonio Portland GrenadaTobagoBarbadosSt.LuciaPointeaPitreSt. KittsHavanaIslandSanKingstonProvidencialesPort-au-PrinceAndres GuaymasHermosillo Santiago PrincePort-au-Kingston Aruba Belize Guatemala City San SalvadorManaguaSanTegucigalpaPedroSulaLiberia Panama City Roatan GrandBayMontegoCayman Punta Cana AguadillaSt.ThomasAntiguaSt.Maarten CaracasBonaire Port-of-Spain NassauPlataPuerto NewtoYork(Newark)Clevelandto NewtoWashingtonto(LaNewtoYorkGuardia)(Dulles)York(Newark)Denvertoto San Francisco to Los Angeles (INTERCONTINENTAL)HOUSTON QueretaroVeracruz Ixtapa/ZihuatanejoManzanillo Monterrey Puerto Vallarta Los CabosGuadalajaraChihuahua Cozumel Torreon AcapulcoOaxacaTampicoAguascalientesDurango TolucaSaltillo Puebla Morelia Ciudad Carmendel MexicoVillahermosaCity HuatulcoOaxacaTampicoAguascalientesMexicoCity Santo SantiagoSanBermudaDomingoJuanSamanaSt.LuciaMartinique Raliegh/Durham AustinSan Antonio ROUTE MAPS INTERNATIONAL CITIES Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path United/United Express Route United Seasonal Service United Future Service Continental Future Service United Hub (Red All Caps) Continental Hub (Blue All Caps) Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Continental/Continental Express/ Continental Connection Route Continental Seasonal Service Time zone boundary CITYCITY

MangaloreKozhikodeTrivandrumBangaloreColomboChennai(Madras)CochinCoimbatoreAbidjanAccra Malabo LibrevilleDoualaYaoundeSao Tome Luanda Mahé Harare LubumbashiLusakaKigaliBujumbura NairobiDarEs SalaamKinshasa Lilongwe CotonouOuagadougouConakry LagosAbujaFreetownMonroviaBissau KhartoumDakar Sal Banjul Asmara Addis SanaaAbaba NagpurPuneLucknowKathmanduKolkataDhakaGuwahatiRaipurMuscatKarachiPeshawarAhmedabadIndoreIslamabadLahoreJaipurChandigarhGoa Tbilisi BakuAshgabatKrasnodarYerevanErbil DushanbeTashkentBishkekAlma-Ata Amman LuxorCairo Jeddah Riyadh DohaAbu BagdadTehranDhabiIzmirIstanbulLarnacaBeirutDamascusAnkaraTromsoTiranaKristiansundTrondheim Oulu TurkuVaasaGdanskHelsinkiTallinnMalmo KrakowWarsaw St. Petersburg KosiceVilniusMinskKievChisinauBucharestSofia Naples Skopje TripoliMaltaGranadaAlgiersCasablancaFaro Funchal Tunis Ekaterinburg Reykjavik Ponce Cartagena GuayaquilMedellin Bucaramanga Cali MaracaiboSantaValenciaCruz GrandeCampo Cordoba Iguassu Falls Cuzco Brasilia FortalezaSalvadorRecife Belo CuritibaHorizonte Santiago Porto Alegre ManausMontevideoFlorianopolis LasTenerifePalmas Riga Belgrade Marseille BahrainKuwait Alta Lome Lulea Molde Ostersund Rhodes Umea Alexandria Jammu Antalya Benghazi DonetzkBatumi Ercan Goiania Horta Agartala Amritsar Juba Kano Keflavik MashadNador Odessa Oran Patna Port Harcourt Pointe Noire NEW YORK (NEWARK)(INTERCONTINENTAL)HOUSTONCLEVELAND Nassau illahermosaAguascalientes Belize SalvadorCitySan Pedro Sula ManaguaLiberiaRoatanCiudaddelCarmenTegucigalpaMontego Bay Grand Cayman Bermuda Punta CanaSantoBonaireCaracasAguadillaDomingoSanJuanSt.ThomasAntiguaSt.MaartenPort-of-SpainPlataPuertoAruba CityPanamaLimaQuito Copenhagen Madrid Stockholm ShannonLisbonDublinBelfast Manchester BirminghamBristol EdinburghBarcelonaGlasgow OsloHamburgMilanBerlin Athens MumbaiDelhi New York (La Guardia) Tel Aviv Rio de Janeiro Buenos Aires Frankfurt Paris Munich Amsterdam London Brussels Rome Geneva Cozumel (O’HARE)CHICAGOWASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) Kuwait DubaiBahrain MoscowDammamRaleigh/Durham Faro GranadaToulouseSevilla La Coruna Malmo IbizaPalma (Gatwick)LondonNewcastleLuxembourgGroningenBillundAalborgAarhus LjubljanaZagreb BilbaoValenciaLisbonPorto Turin Lyon LondonParis Oslo HamburgCopenhagen Brussels MilanFrankfurtHannoverNurembergVenicePisaRomeNaplesTrieste BucharestIstanbul Vienna MunichPrague Warsaw Helsinki BerlinLuga Bremen Klagenfurt LinzSalzburg Sofia Sarajevo Cologne Dresden Verona Vilnius Katowice MarseilleStuttgartNice Riga Stavanger Ancona Dublin BolognaFlorenceGenoa Stockholm Amsterdam Basel EdinburghAberdeen Belfast Birmingham Bergen Glasgow Manchester BelgradeSkopje ShannonCork Izmir Leipzig BudapestMuensterFriedrichshafenGdansk Heraklion Leeds Palanga Rhodes Thessaloniki Alicante Alexandroupolis Bristol Cluj-Napoca Esbjerg KaliningradMikonosLa Romana Palermo 111HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DE CEMBER 2010

INFORMATION & TERMINAL DIAGRAMS MAKING

Plantar Flexion: Lift the heel and keep toes pointed toward the ﬂoor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

CONTACT INFORMATION Customer Relations 800-UNITED-1united.comEmail:united.com/customerrelationscustomerrelations@(800-864-8331) Red Carpet Club™ 520-881-0500866-UA-CLUBSunited.com/redcarpetclub(toll-free)(outsidethe U.S.) Hearing Impaired (TDD) 800-323-0170 Reservaciones en Español 800-426-5561 United Cargo 800-UA-CARGOunitedcargo.com(800-822-2746) United Services unitedsvcs.com Meetings Plus 800-MEET-UAL (800-633-8825) Duty Free World 6095 NW 167th St. Suite D-4 Miami, FL 33015 USA 800-668-6182 United Vacations 800-32-TOURSunitedvacations.com(800-328-6877) Charter an Airplane united.com/charter Small Package Same Day Shipping Small Package Dispatch (SPD)— Airport-to-airport service: 800-722-5243 Employment Opportunities 888-UAL-JOBSunited.com/jobs(888-825-5627) EasyCheck-in kiosks are located on the concourse to assist customers who have experienced a misconnection or canceled flight. Customers who have e-tickets and are traveling domestically may use the kiosk to: 1. Rebook on another flight 2. Obtain a boarding pass 3. Standby for the next flight to their destination will provide you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events—such as weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted rate; however United does not cover hotel or meal

At United Airlines, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time schedule. On occasion, canceling or delaying a flight is the only option to assure we maintain the highest safety standards. canceled? We automatically confirm you on the next United flight with available seats. EasyCheck-in® units located in the concourse will assist you with information and a boarding pass—it will also help you standby for an earlier United flight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United flight to your destination until you are onboard. What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next flight if space is available. This means your bags may arrive before you. United will secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative. What if I have to stay overnight? If a flight is canceled to address a mechanical issue or another similar reason within our control, we YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next flight is on or one of Alliance partners around the world, use the plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. expenses in this event. If we can not retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent. What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or cancelation you decide not to travel, call United reservations (1-800 UNITED-1) to get information on your options. Help us help you keep informed. Sign up for EasyUpdate®, our messaging service. If your flight is canceled or delayed, EasyUpdate® will inform you. Enroll at united.com/easyupdate. At home? Go to united. com for information or to check-in and print your boarding pass.

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

STAYING FIT:

United

Reservations 800-UNITED-1united.com (800-864-8331) Automated Flight Information 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331) Mileage Plus 24-Hour Account Information & Award 800-UNITED-1united.com/mileageplusTravel(800-864-8331) Mileage Plus Visa Customer Service 800-537-7783united.com/chase Baggage Services 800-UNITED-1united.com/baggage(800-864-8331) Refunds 800-UNITED-1united.com/refunds(800-864-8331) TRAVEL ASSISTANCE FOR DELAYED OR CANCELED FLIGHTS

Inversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot. INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY

Dorsiﬂexion: With heel on ﬂoor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

terminal diagrams on pages 113-116 to

Your safety and satisfaction are important. We appreciate your business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced.

Flight

Eversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

the Star

DOMESTIC

ticket counters, United

Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at back of the knee. Repeat with other leg.

113HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DE CEMBER 2010 WASHINGTON / DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. Concourse D MAIN TERMINAL C2 C12 C18 C Connector Tunnel Train Shuttle Bus C24 C1A2A4A6 A14 A32 B37B79A1A3A5C9 C17 C27 D1D3D2 D8 D30 Shuttle Bus Concourse A South African Airways Concourse C Air Canada Concourse B AustrianANAAirlinesContinentalLufthansaSASZ GATES US Airways CHICAGO / O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.ORD TERMINALONE TERMINALTWO TERMINALTHREE Elevated Airport Transit System (ATS) PedestrianTunnel TERMINALFIVE InternationalArrivals Concourse F US Airways Concourse M Concourse E Air Canada Concourse B ContinentalLufthansa Concourse C ANA C1 B1 F1 F4 F11 F14 F10F6 E1 B6 B9 B18B14 B22 C17 C19 C18C24C32 C16 C8 Shuttle runs between Gates C9 and E3. E3 C9Shuttle Bus United Gate Area Continental Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop / Train Stop United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center Medical Center United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center IAD

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS DOMESTIC & OVERSEAS DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. 57 ★ TERMINALWEST TERMINALEAST Concourse C US Airways Concourse B Continental Concourse A AirLufthansaCanada 2528261516 3736 35 41 3938 4950 60 80 919281 57 77 SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.SFO 72 Concourse G United Air New LufthansaANAZealandSingapore Concourse A Asiana Concourse B ContinentalUSAirways Concourse E Air CanadaConcourse F TERMINAL 1 TERMINAL 3 8079898188 73International Terminal Secure Connector 76A78A 71 Roundtrip Shuttle service between Terminal G and Terminal 1. MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next ﬂight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 113-116 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. TOM INTERNATIONALBRADLEYTERMINAL ThaiLufthansaAirwaysANASingaporeAsianaSwiss TERMINAL 3TERMINAL 2 Air Canada Air New Zealand TERMINAL 1 US Airways TERMINAL 4TERMINAL 5TERMINAL 6 Continental TERMINAL 7TERMINAL 8 67A69A 68B64 75A71A 7672 888070A 124B Shuttle Bus LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop Continental Presidents Club United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Continental Presidents Club United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center Medical Center United Gate Area Continental Gate Area United Red Carpet Club International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Train Stop United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center LAXDEN

TERMINAL 4 Continental TERMINAL 5 TERMINAL 3 TERMINAL 1 TERMINAL 2 37 39 49 48 4756 50 54 42 44 36 Shuttle Bus Shuttle Bus LONDON / HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 115HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DE CEMBER 2010 FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTFRA B300-B303 B332-B340 TERMINAL ONE Continental Pier A, Level 3 Gates A51-A65 Pier B Pier C C5 B20 B24 B26 B28 B48 B46 B44 C1 C7 C8 Pedestrian Transfer Tunnel Train to Terminal 2 Lufthansa Tower Lounge Level 5 TOKYO / NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTNRT Satellite 3 Continental Satellite Satellite2 1 Satellite 5 Satellite 4 TERMINAL 1 313743 47 38 32 North Wing South WingPedestrianTunnel Third Floor Zone A ZoneFourthD Floor United Gate Area United Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop United Gate InterterminalAreaTrain Stop Medical Center United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Premier Check-In Medical Center LHR

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS STAR ALLIANCE United Gate Area Continental Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Continental Presidents Club Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop / Train Stop United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center Medical Center CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTCLE C2 D2 D6 D10 D14 D17 D21 D25 D28 C7C14 C16C19 C21C22C23 C25 C29 C10 C4 Concourse C ContinentalUnited Concourse B Concourse A Concourse D Continental Pedestrian Tunnel NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTEWR AirTrain 130127136 102101115 72 887571 B3 B2 B1 A1A2 A380 98 92 TERMINAL A ContinentalUnited TERMINAL B TERMINAL C Continental Shuttle Bus HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORTIAH TerminaLink connects B, C, D and E. It is above ground transportation between terminals while inside security. TerminaLink Shuttle Bus TERMINAL A TERMINAL B TERMINALS A-E Continental TERMINAL C United TERMINAL E TERMINAL D A25-30A3-15A17-24 B76-83 B84-91 C14C20C23C21C34-42C17 E1-9 E10-14E15-24B68-75 B60-67 CHARLOTTE DOUGLAS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTCLT PHOENIX SKY HARBOR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTPHX PHILADELPHIA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTPHL Concourse A United Concourse BConcourse C Concourse D ConcourseConcoursesE B-E US Airways 24 Continuous shuttle bus pickup and drop-off between Gates F10 and C16. Concourse A West Concourse A East Concourse BConcourse C Concourse D ContinentalUnited Concourses A, B, C & F US Airways Concourse E Concourse F 1 7 13 To transfer between terminals, catch the interterminal bus curbside. Concourse AConcourse B Concourse B International TERMINAL 4 US Airways TERMINAL 2 ContinentalUnited 71 GUAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTGUM 4 8 61102 18 21 15 11 MAIN TERMINAL Continental

EARN RECOGNITION AROUND THE WORLD The more miles you fly with United and the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your Mileage Plus elite status can be: Premier®, Premier Executive® or 1K®. Mileage Plus elite status is recognized across the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel benefits worldwide. See united.com/staralliance for the Star Silver and Star Gold benefits you can receive.

ALLIANCES AND PARTNERSHIPS

With the largest airline alliance, you can earn miles almost anywhere in the world you fly. Miles can be earned on most fares on almost every Star Alliance flight and can be credited to your Mileage Plus account. Plus the flight miles you earn will count toward elite status in Mileage Plus. See united.com/airpartners for details.

Aer ContinentalLingus Connection

EARN MILEAGE PLUS® MILES AND ELITE STATUS FASTER

Island Air Jet TACAQatarAirwaysAirwaysGroup

ENJOY A WORLD OF STAR ALLIANCE CONNECTIONS AND PRIVILEGES. Earn or redeem Mileage Plus miles when you ﬂy on any Star Alliance member carrier. The ﬂight miles you earn qualify toward elite status for next year. As a Mileage Plus elite member, your status is recognized on all the Star Alliance carriers. For more information, go to united.com/staralliance.

OTHER AIRLINE PARTNERS

117HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DE CEMBER 2010

STAR ALLIANCE Established in 1997 as the ﬁrst truly global airline alliance to offer customers a worldwide travel network that aims to provide customers a seamless travel experience across multiple airlines. Today the Star Alliance network offers more than 21,200 daily ﬂights to 1,172 destinations in 181 countries.

STAR ALLIANCE AIRLINE PARTNERS

You can earn and redeem miles on several other airline partners. See united.com/airpartners for speciﬁc information about each of our other airline partners.

HawaiianGreatEmiratesLakesAirlines

AWARD TRAVEL IS NOW EASIER With Star Alliance Awards, you can use your Mileage Plus miles for award travel on any Star Alliance carrier worldwide. Or use them for Star Alliance Upgrade Awards—upgrade to a premium cabin and travel in comfort (available on most Star Alliance airlines).

Standard Awards guarantee any United seat that’s for sale + Saver Awards + new One-Way Awards + Hotel & Car Awards + Miles & Money Awards + 35 airlines worldwide + easy redemption at the all-new mileageplus.com The mileage program that wants you to use your miles. ©2010 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.Miles with the clout to book any open United seat. Guaranteed.

for a

&CUSTOMSIMMIGRATION ENTRY CUSTOMSREGULATIONSDECLARATION 119HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DE CEMBER 2010 ENGLISH

ENGLISH All passengers (or one per family) are required to complete the Customs Declaration forms prior to arrival in the U.S. The forms will be distributed inﬂight and should include all personal data in English and in capital letters. Please ensure you sign your name.

14.

of meat, ﬁsh, plants and their products

15.

10.

HAZARDOUS MATERIALS The following items are considered hazardous materials. Do not pack in checked or carry-on luggage. FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR SOLIDS Fuel, paints, solvents, lighter ﬂuid, matches WEAPONS Loaded ﬁrearms, ammunition, gunpowder, Mace, tear gas, pepper spray HOUSEHOLD ITEMS Drain cleaners and solvents COMPRESSED GASES Spray can, butane fuel, oxygen bottles FIREWORKS Firecrackers, sparklers or explosives OTHER HAZARDOUS MATERIALS Dry ice, gasoline-powered tools, camping equipment with fuel, wet cell batteries, oxidizers, corrosives, radioactive materials, HAZARDOUS MATERIALS NOTICE & IMPORT RESTRICTIONSELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORIZATION poisons, infectious substances NOTE There are special exceptions for small quantities of up

Check

SPANISH/ESPAÑOL Todos los pasajeros (o uno por cada familia) tienen que llenar los formularios de Declaración de Aduanas antes de llegar a los EE.UU. Los formularios se distribuirán durante el veulo y deben incluir todos sus datos personales en inglés y con letras mayúsculas. No olvide firmar en el reverso del formulario. 1. Apellido, Nombre, Segundo nombre 2. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) Cuántos familiares viajan con usted 4. (a) Dirección en los EE.UU. (nombre del hotel/lugar) (b) Ciudad, (c) Estado 5. Pasaporte expedido en (páis) 6. Número del pasaporte 7. País de residencia 8. Países que visitó durante este viaje antes de su llegada a los EE.UU. 9. Línea aérea/número de vuelo o nombre del barco 10. El propósito principal de este viaje es de negocios: Sí / No 11. Traigo (Traemos) (a) frutas, plantas, alimentos, insectos:Sí/No (b) carnes, animales, productos de animales o silvestres: Sí / No (c) agentes de enfermedades, cultivos celulares, caracoles:Sí / No (d) tierra o he (hemos) estado en finca/ granja/pastizales: Sí / No 12. He (Hemos) estado en cercanías de ganado (tocando o manipulándolo): Sí / No 13. Llevo (Llevamos) divisas o instrumentos monetarios por valor superior a $10,000 o su equivalente en moneda extranjera (Véase la definición de instrumentos monetarios alSídorso):/No 14. Tengo (Tenemos) mercancías comerciales (artículos para la venta, muestras para solicitar pedidos o bienes que no constituyen efectos personales):Sí/No 15. Residentes—el valor total de todos los bienes, incluidas las mercancías comerciales que he (hemos) comprado en el extranjero, (incluyendo regalos para otras personas, pero sin incluir los artículos enviados por correo a los EE.UU.) y que estoy (estamos) introduciendo en los EE.UU. es de: Visitantes—el$___ valor total de todos los artículos que permanecerán en los EE.UU., incluidas las mercancías comerciales, es de: $___ ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the U.S., all foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents or nationals of countries entitled to the Visa Waiver Program) are required to complete an I-94 form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the form. Please do not write on the back side of the form. All information should be written in capital letters and in English. You are required to keep this form until your departure from the U.S. SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada a los Estados Unidos, todos los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto los ciudadanos de Canadá y los residentes permanentes en los Estados Unidos o ciudadanos de los países que tienen el Programa “Visa Waiver”) tienen que llenar un formulario I-94. Hay que rellenar un formulario por cada miembro de la familia. Los pasajeros llenarán toda la información personal y relativa al viaje que se incluye en el anverso del formulario. Le rogamos que no escriba en el reverso del formulario. Toda la información debe estar escrita con letras mayúsculas y en inglés. Le rogamos que guarde este formulario hasta que salga de los Estados Unidos. 1. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de (Día/Mes/Año)nacimiento País de ciudadanía Sexo (masculino o femenino) Fecha de emisión del pasaporte 7. Fecha de vencimiento del pasaporte Número de pasaporte 9. Aerolínea y número de vuelo País donde vives 11. País en el que abordaron 12. Ciudad donde obtuvo el visado Fecha del visado (Día/Mes/Año) Direccion donde se quedará en los EE.UU (Número, calle) Ciudad y Estado 16. Teléfono de contacto en EE.UU. visiting or in transit. Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form. This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer. Item 9 If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space. 5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal.

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL

baggage

or 2 liters) of medicinal and toilet articles carried in your luggage. For further information, check with any airline representative. IMPORT RESTRICTIONS Please note new

advisory

A partir del 12 de enero de 2009, todos los pasajeros que quieran viajar a los EE.UU. (entre los terminos del programa de no tener que usar la Visa) tendran que obtener una preautorización electronica o ESTA antes de viajar. Cuando estés coordinando viajes internacionales, este seguro que tenga todos los documentos requerídos. No se olvide de dejar tiempo suﬁciente para adquirir los documentos oﬁciales de viaje. Para información completa sobre todos los requisitos, y para aplicar para ESTA, por favor visite www.cbp.gov/esta.

and

17. Dirección de correo electrónico 18. Apellido 19. Nombre 20. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 21. Pais de ciudadanía DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection OMB No. 1651-0111 OMB No. 1651-0111 CBP Form I-94 (05/08) CBP Form I-94 (05/08) CBP Form I-94 (05/08) STAPLE HERESee Other Side Admission Number Arrival Record 000000000 00 Departure Record 000000000 00 1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 4. Country of Citizenship 5. Sex (Male or Female) 8. Passport Number 9. Airline and Flight Number 10. Country Where You Live 11. Country Where You Boarded 12. City Where Visa Was Issued 13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY) 14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 17. Email Address 18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 21. Country of Citizenship DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection 15. City and State 6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY)7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY) Welcome to the United States I-94 Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens

70 oz.

Effective January 12, 2009, all passengers who intend to travel to the United States without a U.S. Visa under the terms of the Visa Waiver Program must obtain an electronic preauthorization or ESTA in advance of travel. When planning international travel, please be sure that you are in possession of all required documents. Remember to allow ample time for acquiring ofﬁcial travel documents. For complete information on the requirements, and to apply for ESTA, please visit www. cbp.gov/esta. to (2 kg controls the import into the United Kingdom European Union. the notices displayed in the hall detailed please declare to customs in the red channel avoid legal consequences.

13.

I-94 ARRIVAL / DEPARTURE RECORD

explanation of these restrictions. If you possess any of these items,

It is United policy on all ﬂights to ask you to use only the lavatories in your ticketed cabin. This policy complies with the U.S. Transportation Security Administration directive that passengers on international ﬂights to the U.S. may use only the lavatories in their ticketed cabin.

them

PROGRAMMINGAUDIO

The latest in Indie and Modern Rock. The best of pop music from around the world. The best contemporaryof jazz. The best of atmospheric and new age music. The latest in electronic and dance music.

Taylor Swift Her highly anticipated album “Speak Now” is available now! Be sure to catch Taylor on tour in 2011, and listen to her hit song ‘Mine’ on the Country and Contemporary Pop channels

The latest and greatest in world music. The latest and greatest in R&B and soul.

The latest top selling songs from Zune. The best of current adult pop. The greatest classic rock hits. The latest and greatest alternative hits. The best of current and classic country.

The best from the world of classical music. The latest and top selling music for kids.

Rihanna Her highly anticipated new album “LOUD” is a return to the uptempo dance grooves of her earlier records. Listen to the ﬁrst single ‘Only Girl (In the World)’ on the Contemporary Pop channel.

The best from the world of chamber music. The best in music performed on the piano. The best from the world of opera. The latest and classics from movie soundtracks. The best in comedy.

CHANNEL 777(2-CABIN)SELECTA320A319&A320747757/767(2-CABIN) 1 movie (english) movie (english) movie (english) movie (english) movie (english) 2 top songs in zunetop songs in zunetop songs in zunemovie (dubbed) top songs in zune 3 contemporary popcontemporary popcontemporary popmovie (dubbed) contemporary pop 4 classical classical classical classical classical 5 new wave new wave new wave new wave new wave 6 country country unavailable country country 7 classic rock classic rock unavailable classic rock classic rock 8 kids electronic/danceunavailable contemporary popkids 9 flight deck flight deck flight deck jazz/contemporary flight deck jazz/contemporary flight deck 10 indie/modern rockmovie (dubbed) movie (dubbed) top songs in zunemovie (dubbed) 11 world pop kids indie/modern rockkids 12 new age new age new age new age 13 r&b/soul contemporary jazzcountry chamber music 14 electronic/danceindie/modern rockclassic rock world music 15 chamber musicchamber musickids 16 piano jazz 17 opera 18 soundtracks 19 comedy Zune and United bring you a sample of the music available to Zune users - across PCs, media players and more. Learn more about Zune music and video entertainment at www.zune.net/united Find your aircraft model on the grid below to find the Zune channel that’s right for you. flight deck Listen for your flight number to hear live communication between the flight deck and FAA air traffic control. This feature, unique to United, may not be available on all flights, including oceanic crossings with limited audio communication. Available at your captain’s discretion. zune pass Like what you hear? Get all the music offered here today plus unlimited access to millions of other songs with a Zune® Pass music subscription.* Visit zune.net/zunepass to try it free for 14-days. on *Zune Pass is a monthly music subscription, available in the United States. Available content may vary over time.

Zune® HD is a premium portable entertainment experience in the palm of your hand. Listen to music, enjoy HD Radio™ broadcasts on the go, watch your favorite movies and TV shows, surf the web through a Wi-Fi connection, play games and more. You can even connect Zune HD to your HDTV* and watch your HD movies on the big screen. live your life in HD

CROSSWORD ACROSS 1. Atlantic catch 4. Home of Montgomery 11. Vegetarian’s no-no 15. Real heel 18. Spoil, like milk 19. Well-liked 20. and sciences 21. Star 22. Creative 23. Germless 24. Stuff to be crunched 25. Pen point 26. Respectful deference 28. A Muslim form of salutation 30. Fleet 32. Battery terminal 33. Loads 35. Wild swine 37. Postproduction task 38. Lobster-like 39. Advance 41. Dance partner? 42. Small freshwater fish 43. Absorbed, as a loss 44. In of 46. Window equipmentcleaning 49. Sink feature 52. Beast’s partner 54. A financial advisors concern 58. Swelled head 59. It comes from the heart 60. Corpse 61. Ward (off) 64. Mark for life 65. Eagle’s claw 68. Stalactite site 69. Assist 70. Frighten 72. Robust 74. Lair 75. Exhausted 77. Not old or stale 79. Male deer in the U.K. 80. Improve 82. A quick reply to a question or remark 84. More than plump 86. Bubbly beverage 87. Main course 88. Comment 90. Evil one 92. Forgiver 94. Battery fluid 96. Picnic crasher 99. Main web page 102. Kind of bean 103. From the beginning 105. rang?” 106. Bone-dry 107. Carpenter’s groove 108. Dismal 110. Up and about 112. Vim’s British partner 114. Like some energy efficient cars 117. Being deepest within the self 118. Volcano output 119. Scrubbed 121. Type of exercise 124. Teen fav. 125. “ to worry” 126. Chinese dynasty 127. Daily grind 128. Domesticate 129. Unspecified number 130. Musical composition 131. Tearless 132. Hurricane’s center DOWN 1. A small crown 2. Old-fashioned 3. Wood nymph 4. Cathedral area 5. Realtor’s offering 6. Big lug 7. Erupt 8. Assumed name 9. Shopping plaza 10. Atlas stat 11. Cash set aside for an emergency 12. Tide competitor 13. Fragrant oil 14. Nicholas I or II 15. North of the U.S.A. 16. Like vinegar 17. High school team 18. World’s largest hot desert 27. Salon supply 29. More or less 31. Movement and en route care of wounded on the battlefield 33. Rested 34. Four quarters 36. Bio stat 40. This and that 41. Crouch 45. Depth charge targets 46. Posed 47. Colossal 48. Stopping point 50. Minister abbr. 51. Got mellower 53. Goof 55. Circumvent 56. Snow White’s crew 57. Style direction 59. Bad spots? 60. Kind of analysis 61. Cavalry sword 62. Link up 63. Conform 64. “No problem” 66. Palin’s backyard 67. Tackle box item 71. Following 73. Brown rival 76. Underwater projectile 78. Cozy 79. Royal Highness 81. Chess pieces 83. Where the buoys are 85. Saloon 86. Right-hand person 88. Drivers who obstruct others 89. Representative 90. Informer 91. Recurring task 93. Some trial evidence 95. Garage contents 97. Morally hurtful or noxious BRUCEGREGBYCROSSWORDPUZZLESPUZPUZ©98. Shelled reptile 99. Cigar and classic car city 100. Prayer 101. Powerful 104. Computer network 107. Sag 108. Filthy 109. Glorify 111. Strike down 113. Golden rule word 115. A lyric poet 116. Kind of admiral 117. Like some drinks 120. African antelope 122. San separFrancisco/Oaklandator 123. Curling surface 124 | DE CEMBER 2010 | UNITED .COM “AAA” LOCATIONS ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLD IF YOU FILL IN THE CROSSWORD PLEASE TAKE THE MAGAZINE WITH YOU SO IT’S REPLACED. // ANSWERS FOUND ON P. 53 The easiest way to turn your TV into a home theater. The SurroundBar® 6000 Instant Home Theater™, with its compact wireless subwoofer, adds dramatic surround sound effects and ground-pounding bass. LLearn more at www.SB6000IHT.com.

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EASY MEDIUM MEDIUM HARD 1. 2. 3. 4. PUZZLESPUZPUZ©SUDOKUANSWERS 1. 2. 3. 4. SUDOKU BY REIKO MCLAUGHLIN THE NUMBERS GAME 126 | DE CEMBER 2010 | UNITED .COM

Amy BrinkmanBetty SinclairSara Darling

You’ve got to market time to youroutsource…datinglife

“Great guys and women don’t circle around your block waiting for you to come out of your house.

Throw a demanding professional or family life into the mix, and you can understand why someone hires IJL. Dating feels difﬁcult because time is valuable, and it isn’t easy to efﬁciently manage a fruitful dating life. With our help, clients go out on dates with someone who already meets their essential requirements. That way, the only thing left to be determined is the chemistry.

Navigating today’s complex dating scene can be daunting, and busy professionals often wonder who to turn to for advice. We sat down with It’s Just Lunch dating expert PJ Osgood to discuss the difﬁculties of dating for singles on the go. Here’s some of the savvy advice she gives to her clients.

Let’s face it—dating is challenging for everyone!

Clients come to me because the process of finding someone on their own can be overwhelming. Meeting people through family, friends, or online requires a lot of time and often doesn’t deliver results. Instead, they join IJL because they are ready to be proactive and want to take a professional approach to ﬁnding their perfect match.

So, that’s why they come to IJL?

My clients look to me as their personal dating headhunter. At IJL, we meet with our clients face to face and identify the key characteristics they are looking for in a match. We learn what has and hasn’t worked for them in the past and put a positive plan in place. Then we introduce them to other like-minded singles in a casual, lowpressure ﬁ rst date setting where they can truly be themselves. Because in the end, it’s just lunch! Why is dating so challenging these days for career-focused singles?

What type of person uses It’s Just Lunch?

Alabama • Arizona • Arkansas • California • Colorado • Connecticut • Delaware • Florida • Georgia • Idaho • Illinois • Indiana • Iowa • Kansas • Kentucky • Louisiana • Maine • Maryland • Massachusetts • Michigan • Minnesota • Mississippi • Missouri • Nebraska • Nevada • New Jersey • New Mexico • New York • North Carolina • Ohio • Oklahoma • Oregon • Pennsylvania • Rhode Island • South Carolina • Tennessee • Texas • Utah • Virginia • Washington • Washington DC • Wisconsin • Canada • Ireland • Australia • Thailand • Singapore Visit ITSJUSTLUNCH.COM or call 1.800.858.6526Real People. Real Dates. IT’S JUST LUNCH has professional dating specialists just like PJ all around the world. Call us and discover how we can help you create a more rewarding dating life today.

What really differentiates IJL from the other dating options out there?

To meet their match?

yourself.”Maybe it’s

Absolutely! Our clients come to IJL because they have reached a point where they want to ﬁnd someone special. They hire us as results-driven dating specialists. People hire professionals to handle so many aspects of their lives, so why not use a professional to help you ﬁnd someone special? We are matchmaking professionals —this is what we do day in and day out. We take a personal approach and remain objective. A successful love life for our clients is our goal.

SKI MARKETPLACE Low season. High adrenaline. Call 1-866-371-6936 or visit SkiBig3.com/united to book your ski vacation today. Canada’s Protected Playground™ Banff National Park. HallmanRichardPhoto: Stay & Ski Packages from $249. New Mexico’s premier mountain resort awaits at Ski Apache and Inn of the Mountain Gods Resort & Casino. By day, explore 750 acres of terrain and more than fifty runs for every skill level. By night, take on our full casino, indulge in award-winning dining, or relax at our fireside lounge with stunning alpine views. The package includes a one-night stay in a superior room, 2 one-day lift tickets, breakfast for two, and round-trip transportation from Inn of the Mountain Gods to Ski Apache. Call 1-800-545-9011 or visit skiapache.com. *Some restrictions apply. Call resort for details.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DE CEMBER 2010 129

Success stories begin here.

In our safe and structured academic environment, based on Christian values, young men develop the qualities of character, self-discipline, respect, and leadership needed for success in life.

leeds.colorado.eduJohnWood, LEEDS class of ’86, former Microsoft® exec and founder of Room to Read, a non-proﬁt that is bringing books, libraries and schools to 5 million kids in nine less-developed nations.

Fork Union Military Academy Boys, Grades 6-12 & ForkUnionMilitary.orgpostgraduate students always think beyond business With a diverse undergraduate and MBA curriculum, professors that embrace the entrepreneurial spirit, and a beautiful Boulder setting, we cultivate well-rounded individuals who can achieve anything. From ideas to impact.

EDUCATION MARKETPLACE PERSONAL GROWTH Character & Dedicated,MulticulturalLeadershipExperienceCaringFaculty ADVANCED EDUCATION AP Classes | Dual Enrollment Small, Structured Classes Technology Enriched www.farragut.orgSCUBAMarineJr.UNIQUECurriculumOPPORTUNITIESROTC|Aviation|SailingScience|Engineering|CompetitiveSports Waterfront campus located in sunny St. Petersburg, FL (727) 384-5500 ext. 220 | admissions@farragut.org Co-ed Boarding Program (6th-12th) College Prep Global Leadership in Teams and Organizations One great graduate certificate program Four great global courses ● One week, three credit courses in locations around the world ● International company site visits and cultural exchanges ● 12 credits can be used towards a Master’s Degree upon application ● Current graduate students may take individual courses as electives Interested in taking a course in Buenos Aires, CallorPrague,Singapore,CapeTown,Istanbul?Today! 703.726.8396elpnow@gwu.eduwww.gwu.edu/elp/certificate.html44983KnollSq.,Suite 147 Ashburn, VA 20147 GW GRADUATE SCHOOL OF EDUCATION AND HUMAN DEVELOPMENT G41316 THE GEORGE WASHINGTON UNIVERSITY IS AN EQUAL OPPORTUNITY/AFFIRMATIVE ACTION INSTITUTION CERTIFIED TO OPERATE IN VA BY SCHEV. www.gwu.edu/gradapply Enroll today. Excel.

In our classrooms, on our athletic courts, and in activities from chess to competitive drill team, our cadets find the opportunity to shine, to achieve, and to get better than they were before.

Fork Union Military Academy’s rigorous admission standards, high academic expectations, and focus on achievement help outstanding young men develop, compete, and accomplish even more than they thought possible.

Our

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premium offerings

Doug Frost

Enjoy classic favorites and modern selections created especially for you.

With a food philosophy centered around contemporary American cuisine and culinary partnerships which include world renowned Chef Charlie Trotter and restaurant favorite Trader Vic’s, United offers traditional dishes with a modern twist, while also providing regional and ethnic items.

RELAX AND ENJOY YOUR FLIGHT

Served in United Business® class on select international flights departing the U.S.

What’s New Prefer something savory rather than sweet to finish your meal?

FILET MIGNON WITH HERBED COMPOUND BUTTER Accompanied by Red Skin Garlic Mashed Potatoes and Grilled Asparagus (pictured here).

Any Port in a storm was the old phrase and though the implication was a sailor’s snug harbor, the wine known as Port can offer warmth and comfort on a blustery and cold winter evening. A traditional product of the Douro Valley in northern Portugal (note the similarity in name), Port is perhaps the richest of all fortified wines, wines that are dosed with enough spirit to embolden and intensify the flavors. Amongst all Port producers, Graham’s is one of the top names in Port, and their Late Bottled Vintage Ports offer a lush, powerful, chocolate-rich raisin and fig deliciousness; they are ideal for many desserts and especially for our cheese selections.

United’s distinguished Master Sommelier and Master of Wine

Try our new Artisan Cheese Plate, available in United First ® on flights outbound from the U.S. beginning December 16. Enjoy the following award winning flavorful cheeses: BelGioioso ® Creamy Gorgonzola, Sartori Bellavitano ® and Montchevré™ Sun-dried Tomato and Basil Chèvre. Flip over the right page to enjoy »

breakfast ON

Low fat vanilla yogurt with fruit and granola. $ 2.99 Blend of 100% mixed fruits and berries. $ 6.29 Cinnamon raisin bagel, cream cheese, strawberry jam, strawberry yogurt and fruit & nut trail mix. $ 5.49 Served with dijonnaise sauce (served cold).

$ 5.49

AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE ON MOST NORTH AMERICAN FLIGHTS, EXCLUDING UNITED EXPRESS.® à la carte

Your feedback is welcomed via w ithin seven days of your flight. United, Choice Menu, and EasyPurchase are trademarks of United. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. We apologize if your selection is not available on today’s ﬂight.

$ 6.99 Pepper jack, gouda, cheddar, dried cranberries, apple slices, almonds, and assorted Pepperidge Farm ® crackers. Kettle Classics® potato chips served with Sandwiches and Wraps MOST

United does not serve peanuts as snacks or use peanuts or peanut oils in foods served on our ﬂights. However, we do serve vendor products manufactured in facilities that also produce items containing peanuts or peanut oils, and we do have snack mixes that contain other tree nuts, such as almonds and pistachios.

$ 9.49

$12.98 Your choice of one of our sandwiches with any beer or house wine. $11.98 Assorted cheese tray with your choice of house red or white wine. $11.98 Tapas snack box with your choice of house red or white wine.

$ 2.99 (2.6 oz can) $ 2.99 $ 2.99 Almond & Sea Salt Dark Chocolate or Milk Chocolate.

Grilled chicken breast, romaine lettuce, carrots, red and yellow bell pepper, Thai aioli sauce wrapped in a tortilla.$8.99 Honey ham, provolone cheese, lettuce, mustard mayonnaise on a pretzel roll. $ 8.99 Smoked turkey, lettuce, sundried tomato aioli sauce on multigrain bread. $ 9.49

&lunchdinner ON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS OVER 3 HOURS

Grilled chicken, red and yellow bell pepper strips, parmesan cheese, romaine lettuce, caesar dressing and croutons.

bundles

MORNING FLIGHTS OVER 3 HOURS

ON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS

beverages AVAILABLE ON MOST UNITED FLIGHTS. SELECTIONS MAY VARY ACCORDING TO AVAILABILITY, CLASS OF SERVICE OR DESTINATION. NON-ALCOHOLIC Complimentary on all United flights. • So ft Drinks • Milk • Tonic Water • Tea • Seltzer Water• Assorted Fruit Juices • Spring Water• Bloody Mary Mix • Starbucks Regular & Decaffeinated Coffees ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES Complimentary in United Business ® and United First.® Priced as shown in United Economy.® HOUSE WINES $ 7 • R edwood Creek 2007 California Cabernet Sauvignon Hayes Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 California • Redwood Creek 2007 California Chardonnay Hayes Ranch Chardonnay 2009 California PREMIUM WINES $ 8 Domestic flights only: • Che viot Bridge 2008 Australian Shiraz • Cheviot Bridge 2008 Australian Chardonnay Domestic United Business and United First may also choose: • B atitu Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Chile Stanza Petite Sirah 2007 California • Canyon Road Sauvignon Blanc 2009 California Cheviot Bridge Chardonnay 2008 Adelaide Hills Australia Refer to printed menus for additional selections where applicable. BEER $ 6 • Miller ® Lite • Miller ® Genuine Draft • Heineken ® PREMIUM COCKTAIL $ 9 • Tr ader Vic’s ® Mai Tai (to/from Hawaii only) SPIRITS $ 7 • Absolut ® Vodka (international flights only) • Bacardi ® Rum • Canadian Club ® Reserve Whisky • Chivas Regal Scotch (international flights only) • Dewar’s ® White Label Scotch (domestic flights only) • Finlandia ® Vodka (domestic flights only) • Jack Daniel’s ® Tennessee Whiskey • Jim Beam Black ® Bourbon Whiskey • Tanqueray ® Gin LIQUEURS $ 7 • Baileys ® Irish Cream • Courvoisier ® VSOP Cognac • Disaronno ® Amaretto (international flights only) • Kahlúa ® Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. By FAA rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by flight attendants may be consumed onboard. signaturecocktail $ 7 Looking for something different? Try our Sunrise Sunset cocktail, created for you by United Flight Attendant Tita Martin. With cranberry apple juice, a splash of orange juice, a squeeze of lime and Vodka, it’s a great way to relax and enjoy your flight. Cheers! snack boxes $ 8.49 • Oloves Marinated Olives • Milas ® Artichoke and Red Pepper Spread • Wild Garden™ Hummus • Rondele ® Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread • Fratelli Laurieri Scrocchi Al Rosmarino Crackers • Jacobs ® Cream Crackers • Partners ® Olive Oil and Sea Salt Crackers • Emerald ® Natural Almonds • Fantis ® Ouzo Candy Mint $ 7.49 • Snyder’s ® of Hanover Mini Pretzels • Keebler Townhouse ® Crackers • Nabisco™ Oreo Cookie • Jelly Belly ® Assorted Flavors • Del Monte ® Vanilla Yogurt Raisin Fruit Snack • Austin ® Zoo Animal Crackers • Pepperidge Farm ® Goldfish • Dairyfoods Cheddar Spread $ 6.99 • Bumble Bee Sensations ® Lemon Pepper Tuna 2.9 oz • Stacy’s ® “Simply Naked” Pita Chips • Asher’s ® Dark Chocolate Covered Pretzel • Musselman’s ® Unsweetened Apple Sauce A portion of the profits from the sale of the snack boxes will benefit United-sponsored breast cancer support and research charities. ALL DAY ON MOST FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS

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in transit 142 DECEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM PHOTOGRAPH BY SASHA NIALLA “I love going on withhoureighteen-hikesmyphotoequipment.” EMILY JOSEPH / 19 / Student WHY I’M TRAVELING / I’m ﬂying to San Francisco for a family reunion. I travel all the time to see my family in North Carolina, Florida, California and Kentucky. MY FAVORITE PLACE / Is Yosemite National Park. I love going on eighteenhour hikes there with my photo equipment. HOW I FLY / I love to read. I’ve got two books for this trip: Death Masks and The Wizard Heir. I ﬁnished one on the way here. BY ADAM K. RAYMOND GETTING TO KNOW YOU

Automatic movement Water resistant to 200m Swiss 866-382-2476made KHAKI PILOT

United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine December 2010

Articles inside

In Transit Who’s sitting next to you?

Whereabouts

Crossword and Sudoku

Industry

Food & Drink

Sports

Wheels

Style

Goods

Notes From All Over

Comments

Connections What’s new at United

Hero

CEO Letter A word from Jeff Smisek

Voices A message to fl yers

Whirlwind