History of Fashion and Contemporary Fashion Research Book

History of Fashion & Contemporary Fashion Research Book

Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin BA Hons Fashion Marketing & Communication Level 4, 2016-2017 Fashion and Art CWK3 Proff. Ana Rowe and Aleix Perdigo 1

In this Research Book, five trends from 2016 and 2017 that date back to earlier trends in fashion history will be discussed. The five trends analyzed will be corsets, choker necklaces, the mule shoe, leg of mutton sleeves, and chopine/platform shoes. All of these trends are derived from women.

1. Introduction of the trend: The first trend is the corset The corset has been around for centuries. It has appeared and disappeared throughout time, however it has been one of the most prominent fashion trends throughout the history of fashion. Over the course of its existence, the corset has had many names and, although its definition is “a close-fitting piece of clothing that has been stiffened by various means in order to shape a woman's (also a man's, but rarely) torso to conform to the fashionable silhouette of the time (Marquise, n.d.)”.

Historical roots of the trend: The true origins of the corset are unknown however there are traces of corset-like structures with the Minoan people, who lived during 3000-1400 BC. Evidence can be found from paintings on Minoan walls, pottery and statues. Both genders of the Minoan people, from Crete, Greece, are believed to have worn girdles as it gave them a small waist, which was highly admired. Even children “wore a grilled around their waists that was tightened as they grew in order to stop growth in the waist area (Tahlia McKeller Textiles, n.d.)”. The tight http://tahliamckellartextiles.weebly.com/corset-timeline.html girdle also allowed for the women’s breasts to be elevated and perky, which showed strong femininity.

The French were the first to introduce the ‘cotte’ to its people in the 15th century. During that time, wealthy French women wanted to achieve a thinner waistline, which was culturally popular. It is said that Agnes Sorel, mistress to Charles VII of France, started the Minoan like trend when she “wore a gown in the French court which fully exposed her breasts. After this appearance, many French women opened their bodices to reveal their breast, also cutting their gowns to show their lower back (Tahlia McKeller Textiles, n.d.)”.

Agnes Sorel https:// www.pinterest.com/pin/

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http://tahliamckellartextiles.weebly.com/corset-timeline.html)

During the 1500's, French aristocrat Catherine de Medici made an influential mark in fashion by officially banning 'thick waists' at court. This promoted the wearing of corsets by wealthy women in the public view. Instead of shaping clothes to the body, as had been done throughout the Middle Ages, the body began to conform to the fashionable shape of the clothing worn.

http://tahliamckellartextiles.weebly.com/corset-timeline.html)

In Spain, “corsets were supported in the front by a vertically placed wooden or bone rod known as a 'busk', which produced a flat shape, and was reinforced elsewhere with whalebone stays. The busk was often used for special occasions and events, and was sometimes presented to a suitor as a prize when he was interested in a female. Even men sported polished and decorated breastplates to show their wealth ( (Tahlia McKeller Textiles, n.d.))”. Many other countries developed their corsets off the Spanish style. In England, the "Tudor Corset" utilized iron corset covers for both men and women, while France, Germany and Italy preferred a less stiff style to eventuate a wider hip. Queen Elizabeth I created the "Elizabethan Corset", inspired by the Tudor, but with a less rigid (using whalebone) and emphasized waist (Tahlia McKeller Textiles, n.d.). The goal of corsets in that era were to emphasize a flat stomach and the curving tops of the breasts that peeked over the top of the corsets.

This trend continued throughout the 1600’s. However, the corsets became tighter and enhanced the fullness of breasts even more. Important people of the era such as Queen Mary II, Henrietta Maria and the wife of Charles I of England are depicted in many paintings with fully bare breasts as Henrietta Maria prominent breasts were regarded to be a symbol of beauty amongst the http:// www.sparklingadventures.com/ aristocracy and upper classes. The 17th century also brought decoration to corsets, such as laces, sleeves and ribbons (Tahlia McKeller Textiles, n.d ).

The 1700’s brought on an even more constricting shape. The desired look for this period was to have shoulders thrown back, very erect posture and a high, full bosom.

Corsets were even more decorated than the 17th, having silk brocades and gold trims.

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The corsets were often highly decorated, with finely stitched tunnels for boning, and precious silk brocade and gold trims (Tahlia McKeller Textiles, n.d.).

http://tahliamckellartextiles.weebly.com/corset-timeline.html

Corsets in the 19th century were romanticized. They were long, soft and came in a more natural shape. This reflected the fashion of the era. Corsets were even “‘gifted to women by their husbands ‘along with hand carved love poems and pictures’(Tahlia McKeller Textiles, n.d.)”. A major innovation in 19th century corsetry was the introduction of the front fastening busk in 1848. This allowed a woman to have independence and put on her corset easily by herself. The new busk was gently curved to follow the natural posture and lines of the body for comfort rather than the stiff busk popular in the early part of the century.

http://tahliamckellartextiles.weebly.com/corset-timeline.html

From 1904-1911, a new style of corsetry was introduced which created the “SBend”. It was called the S-Bend, as the curves of a lady's figure, in this corset, resembled the curves of the letter S. Unlike the curve bust of the Victorian era that began to be seen as unhealthy, the new straight busk did not harm any of the woman's internal organs, and only gave her a more upright posture (Tahlia McKeller Textiles, n.d.).

http://tahliamckellartextiles.weebly.com/corset-timeline.html

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A dramatically new style of corsetry was introduced through 1912-1919. Corsets were “no longer used to accentuate the bust and hips, but to minimize the abdomen and hips. A top heavy appearance was admired during this period (Tahlia McKeller Textiles, n.d.)”. This style continued into the 1920’s as there were a lack of supplies after WW1 and strict restriction and brocades were not available. A boyish look was desired, as the flapper dress rose in popularity.

http://tahliamckellartextiles.weebly.com/corset-timeline.html

By the 1930's, the waist reappeared. Women “still wanted to have slim hips, but now desired a more prominent waistline. They also began to create corsets with built in bras (Tahlia McKeller Textiles, n.d.)”. With the new fabric technologies created for the War and the lack of luxurious fabrics available, corsets were made with rayon, woven elastics and cotton covered rubber. However when the war ended in 1945, Christian Dior’s New Look brought back feminine designs and better fabrics to corsets (Tahlia McKeller Textiles, n.d.).

http://tahliamckellartextiles.weebly.com/corset-timeline.html

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The girdle become commonly worn by females in the 1950’s. The girdle was constructed out of nylon and latex rubber and retained women stomachs while highlighting their waist in a more comfortable way. During this time, advancements in textiles manufacturing meant that elastic materials had the ability to stretch in more than one direction, allowing garments to be well fitted without boning.Women were “‘also socially advised to wear girdles after childbirth, as it kept everything in place. ‘Those who didn’t wear a girdle were seen as having little self-respect, even wearing them during performing or exercise was a necessity.” Lacing was also eliminated and “women either zipped themselves into garments, tugged themselves into elastic girdles or fastened the garment using hooks and eyes.’(Tahlia McKeller Textiles, n.d.)’”.

http://tahliamckellartextiles.weebly.com/corset-timeline.html

Justifying the trend through examples: In the past decade, corset-like devices have been usually used for costume, stage performance and waist training. However, In 2016 and 2017 corsets made a huge comeback on the runway and later in both high end and fast fashion stores. Celebrities and influencers such as the Kardashians, Kylie Jenner and even Ashley Graham, a plus sized model, have been seen wearing less restraining fashionable corsets. The corsets seen and bought now a days are meant to highlight the waist, creating an hour glass figure. They are also, usually, worn on top of garments. Corsets are still, as in the 80’s, made using elastane and/or materials that are proven to not damage internal organs or the body.

Waist trainers were very popular in 2015 and still are to this day. They are controversial and in an article by Marie Claire, a weight loss and nutrition expert, Christopher Ochner said that waist trainers “squish your lungs and ribs.. [and that] Spot reducing doesn't exist..You can't reduce the collection of fat in any one particular area of your body. If you push your stomach in, all the fat will go right back to where it was no matter how long [you wear the corset] for (Thapoung, 2016)”.

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From left: Loewe, Isabel Marant, MISBHV, Sally LaPointe, Stella McCartney, Tibi (Runway Images via Vogue.com)

Kylie Jenner

Kim Kardashian

Ashley Graham

Amber Rose

Synergies with other fashion segments: After WWI, Christian Dior introduced the New Look in 1945. The New Look featured “rounded shoulders, a cinched waist, and very full skirt…[it] celebrated ultra-femininity and opulence in women’s fashion. After years of military and civilian uniforms, sartorial restrictions and shortages, Dior offered not merely a new look but a new outlook (Charleston, n.d.)”. With the immense popularity the New Look gained, corsetry regained its power and fame. Ten years later, small waists were still attractive and actress Marilyn Monroe rose to fame due to her good looks and highly looked after small waist. Because of the New Look’s popularity, Millennials and the younger generation will often link corsetry to actresses and models from around that time.

Trend Prediction: I believe that corsetry will never disappear as its been around since the Minoan people.

However, evidence of this generations strong disapproval of waist trainers and tight restricting forces on the body show how the current and future generations are health conscience. Also, the 7

current embracement of all body sizes and shapes will most likely become stronger in the future.

With the comfort of normal underwear, and a wider acceptance of all body types, wearing corsets to achieve one particular body shape is not as important to modern day women as it was to women centuries before. I can only see corsetry continue to exist as a trend that is now seen above clothes and is loose and “stylish”. Restricting the body’s form will not be as popular as it once was for at least 50 more years.

2. Introduction of the trend: The second trend from 2016 that I am going to discuss is the choker. Choker necklaces, just like corsets, have been falling in out and fashion for thousands of years. The necklaces surprisingly have a strong meaning behind them pertaining to women empowerment. Throughout history they have been used and prized for their ability to “both conceal the neck and to highlight it (Garber, 2016)” . They have been symbols, always, of both vulnerability and power. What defines a choker is being a close-fitting necklace worn around the neck. Chokers can be made out of a variety of materials such as velvet, plastic, beads, leather, silver, gold, platinum, and more. They also can be decorated in a variety of ways, including sequins, studs, lace and pendants.

Historical roots of the trend: According to expert curators from the Jewelery Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, chokers have been around for thousands of years. They were used during the worlds earliest civilizations, during the Summer Empire in Mesopotamia and in Ancient Egypy(Graff, 2016). Chokers were thought to be protective and imbued with special powers. Yvonne Markowitz, the curator emerita of jewelry at Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts, told National Jeweler, ‘“a lot of ancient jewelry is protective and amuletic.” People tended to concentrate their ornamentation, she noted, on the parts of the body that were thought to be in particular need of protection—the head, the wrists, the ankles, the throat—and believed those items to be infused with special powers (Garber, 2016)”’.

Ancient Egyptian choker http:// www.hercampus.com/school/ kent-state/evolution-chokers

Chokers also have been used for practical purposes. Native Americans wore versions of chokers, often made of the bones of birds, to protect their necks in battle (Garber, 2016). When chokers were adopted by Europeans during the Enlightenment, they detained their purpose of protection and instead were used by the upper class and as a symbol of class power. Chokers, during that time, were also seen as ways to cover imperfections on the neck. Women in Germany and Austria were known to use Kropkfette

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Alexandra of Denmark’s coronation outfit http://orderofsplendor.blogspot.com.es/2012/03/flashback-

chokers to hide lumps on the neck that were caused by “goiter, a disease common across the Alps at the time (Garber, 2016)”. Kropfkettes were necklaces consisting of multiple rows of chains with a large clasp at the front (Graff, 2016). Alexandra of Denmark (1844-1925) played an important role in the popularity of chokers in the late 1800’s. Alexandra was a “fashionable woman who cared about her appearance and set several trends. Women clamored for the chokers she wore to conceal a scar on her neck (Order of Splendor, 2012)”. In other parts of the world, chokers, styled in a ribbon form, symbolized and identified prostitutes. Although that stigma faded when ballerinas adopted the necklace.

Though they were never entirely out of fashion, chokers reigned supreme once more in the 1920s and into the ’30s, lending themselves to the beloved Art Deco style of the time.

Whether decorated in “‘pearls or velvet ribbon with a central decal, they were often referred to as “dog collars” during this time. Their prevalence faded once the 1940s began, but they were adopted once again, in more colorful iterations, by freespirited ’70s hippies (Schiffer, 2016)’”. revived In the 70s chokers made a comeback for men. Celebrities and performers such as Mick Jagger, Jimi Hendrix, and Elvis are experimented with them.

Justifying the trend through examples:

Edgar Degas - The Ballet Rearsal on the Stage, 1874 at Musée d'Orsay Paris France |

In 2016 and 2017 chokers of many different fabrics and styles have made a comeback. In an article by Popsugar in 2016, they say “This year, choker necklaces arose from the ashes of the '90s, gripping fashionistas everywhere with flashbacks to the good old days of mood rings, chain wallets, and ripped jeans. Whereas the chokers of days past were typically stretchy and plastic (and thus not considered "high fashion"), this year's resurgence gave the neck-cessory a much-needed makeover (Messina, 2016)”.

Fashion designers Ralph Lauren, Lanvin and Dior displayed chokers of different structures in their 2016 shows. Influencers such as Rihanna, the Kardashians and fashion blogger Chiara Ferragni have been influencing the public to wear chokers. Online retailer Asos also introduced men’s chokers in 2017.

Fall Winter 16/17

Spring/ Summer 16

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Olivia Wilde

Chiara Ferragni

asos.com

asos.com

Synergies with other fashion segments: Chokers made a huge comeback in the 90’s and now in 2017, chokers are seen as nostalgic from 20 years ago. In the 90’s chokers were not as elegant as they are now, they were a reaction to 90’s grunge. The plastic choker, that is iconic of the 90’s, apparently was supposed to mimic a “‘tattoo choker [that] consisted of a tight, springy, lace-like plastic necklace designed to sit snugly against your neck and mimic some sort of hand-drawn tattoo — because so many 14year-old girls in the '90s had neck tattoos — while conveying an intangible emotion that fell somewhere between ‘I'm the trendiest chick on the block’ and ‘I hate the world (Telfer, 2014)’”’ Trend Prediction: I believe that chokers will never become extinct. I think that the introduction of mens chokers will become stronger as gender bending is becoming more socially acceptable. Chokers will continue to evolve and change forms. (Rutherford, 2017))

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3. Introduction of the trend: The third trend is the Mule Shoe. The origins of the word mule lie in Ancient Rome, where it was mulleus calceus (a red or purple shoe worn by the three highest magistrates), but the contemporary appropriation refers to a shoe that is backless and usually closed-toed (Pitt, 2012).

Mule Shoes date back to the 16th century and were meant for the upper class, as a normal laborer would “have no use for a shoe that could be easily slipped on and off (Pitt, 2012)” . Mules were a sign of status and gave the indication to others that you lived a life of luxury. Although throughout time its definition and accessibility has changed.

Historical roots of the trend: Originally worn within the bedroom, this style of shoe has a storied history “and when Comtesse d’Olonne, the risqué society beauty, wore a soft red pair of mules to church in 1694 – daringly peeping from beneath her richly-embellished skirt – it paved the way for the style. They went on to become popular within the French Court, both Madame de Pompadour and Marie Antoinette donning variations throughout the eighteenth century (Marshall, 2016)”.

The mule shoe became even more popular in the 18th century as an indoor shoe style worn more exclusively by upper class women. An example of how the mule was looked at in the 18th century is JeanHonoré Fragonard’s “ The Swing”. The Rococo period, an eighteenthcentury artistic movement and style, was characterized by a “jovial, ornate and graceful approach, countering the Baroque period that came before it. The mule within this scene is steeped in symbolism, the joie de vivre of the period encapsulated in a style of footwear that could be slipped off at any moment. Harking to its origins in the bedroom, the slippers presented an underlying eroticism (Marshall, 2016)”.

This association with luxury, sexual liberty and attractiveness is what kept the Mule alive for the modern woman and even more so in the twentieth century when they became the common shoe choice for prostitutes. Eduored Manet’s famous 1863 painting “Olympia” implements his realist style and paints a naked woman wearing mule shoes, which were then associated with prostitution .

The Swing by Jean-Honoré Fragonard (1767)

The Mules history continued with its association of sexuality and made its way onto the feet of some of Hollywood’s most Olympia by Edouard Manet, 1863 popular leading ladies in the 1950’s. A now famous photo done

by Vogue in February of 1949 imitated the structure of “Olympia”. in this shoot about modern underwear titled ‘New Fashions Beneath’. The mule again stays within the bedroom. The mule shoe “experienced a rise of popularity in fashion and by the 1950s it was favored by Hollywood pin-ups, with a sex appeal, such as Marilyn 11

Monroe (Marshall, 2016)”. These beauties, who were famed for their alluring bodies embraced the mule shoe as a symbol of sex appeal and ease. In the 1950’s women’s shoes were becoming fairly high “ since the stiletto shoe had made its official appearance in fashion, the Mule became even more popular to wear due to its ability to make the leg look long and sexy while still allowing the wearer to be comfortable (Pitt, 2012)”.

Vogue 1949. Model lounging in nightdress and mules.

Justifying the trend through examples: The mule shoe made a popular comeback on the runway and streets in 2016 and 2017.

Designers such as Boss, Ninca Rucci and Gucci released their mule shoes on the runway.

However, Gucci in particular gained much fame throughout 2016 for its mule loafer collections (InStyle, 2016). Celebrities and influencers such as Gigi Hadid, Selena Gomez and Emma Watson were seen wearing both flat and heeled mules in 2016. An article by Elle says ”Flat mules, low block-heel mules, heeled mules, sneaker mules, espadrille mules—mules in all fabrications and colors including velvet, satin, canvas, and embroidery..were big for 2016 and

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they will be even bigger for 2017 (Ogunnaike, 2016)”. They also can be found at H&M, Zara and other affordable retailers, making this once prestigious shoe attainable for all.

Synergies with other fashion segments: Beth Levine was one of those designers who not only coined her own name for the mules but also patented her own addition to the modern Mule shoe. As Mules made their way onto streets and out of the bedroom women began to complain that the shoes were hard to keep on.

Designer Beth Levine responded to this complaint by creating The Springolator in 1956. The Springolator design was a band of material the shoe insole was made of and a thick yet soft elastic. Not only did it keep the shoe on it eliminated the clacking noise made by most Mules when you walk (Pitt, 2012) .Springolators became so in demand, that they were making private label shoes for several popular companies, one in particular was Frederick’s of Hollywood. Beth was “‘soon known as “The First Lady of American Shoe Design” she continued designing shoes until the 1970s.The Genie or Glamour Clog shoe was first advertised in a Frederick’s of Hollywood Catalog in 1961, and from there they were brought back into style by such designers as, Betsey Johnson, Remix Vintage Shoes and Bordello ( Pitt, 2012)”.

Trend Prediction: Due to the fact that mules have gained much popularity in 2016 and 2017, I believe that they will continue to be trendy for a couple more years. Although many people find mules to be ugly, I am sure new styles will be made out of the mule shoe. Stylerange.com says that “mules are the ultimate ‘ugly shoe’ that every fashion girl needs now the cold weather is here. It’s the perfect mix between holding on to your summer sandals and saying hello to a more enclosed, winter shoe (Brennan, 2016)”.

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4. Introduction of the trend: The fourth trend is the leg of mutton sleeve (also known in French as the gigot sleeve) . It was initially named due to its unusual lamb leg shape: “formed from a voluminous gathering of fabric at the upper arm that tapers to a tight fit from the elbow to the wrist.

(Marshall, 2016)”.

Historical roots of the trend: First seen in fashionable dress in the 1820s, the sleeve became popular between approximately 1825 and 1833 (Marshall, 2016). In combination with the popular V-neckline and full skirt, gigot sleeves helped to give an illusion of a narrower waist. However, by the time Queen Victoria ascended to the throne in 1837, the overblown sleeves had completely disappeared in favor of a more subdued style. By the end of its fame in the late 1830’s, “the leg o’ mutton sleeve was so big, the stiff horsehair fabric once used to maintain its shape was no longer sufficient. Instead, whalebone supports, large feather-stuffed pads, or steel springs were used to keep the leg o’ mutton sleeve looking perfectly pillowy (ModCloth Blog, 2010)”. The trend returned in 1890 and by 1895 the sleeves Cléo de MérodeArtwork by Charles Ogereau, 1893, held in the swelled into enormous puffs similar to those of 1833. They Musee d’Orsay returned as a way to balance out their fashionably full skirts.

Gigot sleeves began at the top of the arm and helped create a fashionable sloped shoulder look. “The most beautiful lady in the 1830s would have shoulders not extending in a horizontal line from the base of her neck, but sloping in a gentle diagonal down to her arms. This ideal was connected with the romanticism movement popular during the period, making a woman look as though she were pining away for a lover.(Werlin, n.d.)”.

costumes.org

1832 American Cotton Day Dress.

(Image via Met Museum)

14 Portrait of a German PrincessArtwork by François Joseph Kinsoen, c. 1828, held in the Bowes Museum, Barnard Castle, County Durham

Justifying the trend through examples: Leg of mutton sleeves, also gigot sleeves, have gained popularity in 2016 and 2017 once again. They have been seen on the 2016 runways of Rodarte, J.W Anderson, and Burberry (Peng, 2016). Jacquemus, A.W.A.K.E., Balenciaga and Rosie Assoulin have also all tapped into this silhouette. Meanwhile, Kitri and Mango have some amazing versions for high-street prices (Spedding, 2017).

Rodarte

J.W Anderson

Burberry

Dior

Zara

J.W Anderson

Zara

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Synergies with other fashion segments: Leg of mutton sleeves are modernly linked to the 80’s big sleeves. The 80’s was about big garments and puffy clothes. They first came on the fashion scene in the 1820s, became very popular in the early 1830s, and again in the 1890s (Gibson Girls) – and in the 1980s (Helen Oppenheim, 2016). Vivienne Westwood is famous for her 1980’s Pirate collection, which included explosive leg of mutton sleeves (Lee-Joe, 2015).

Trend Prediction: The ‘80s trend has come back for 2016 and 2017 are back in a big way. Not only does that mean wearing Quality Street purple, white shoes and double-breasted jackets with XXL shoulders, but it's also bringing the return of the puff sleeve (Spedding, 2017). These gigot sleeves will stay in trend for a while, however I don't think they will last that long since huge statement pieces aren't always highly liked by everyone.

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5. Introduction of the trend: The last trend is Chopine shoes, that are now called platforms. The definition of choppiness are “a shoe having a thick sole, usually of cork, suggesting a short stilt, worn especially by women in 18th-century (Dictionary.com, n.d.)”.

Historical roots of the trend: Chopines, also known as platform shoes, originated from the idea of heeled shoes. High heels were “first seen on Persian soldiers in 1590 from Persian paintings. As the Persian empire moved into Western Europe, so did its footwear (Di Donato, 2015)”. The high heel became popular amongst the upper class men and by the early 17th century it came to symbolize power and wealth.

While aristocratic men wore the high heel for style purposes, the trend spread to the European streets, where men and women of working class desired to wear them for hygienic purposes. Because of the dirty streets (due to poor sewage systems), “people started wearing elevated shoes called pattens, or heeled over-shoes, to protect their clothing from getting soiled (Di Donato, 2015)”.

Eventually, Europeans started getting into fancier versions of pattens, and the shoe evolved into one of the more recognizable early platforms: the chopine.

The Italian nobility were known for wearing Choppiness under the skirt to give the appearance of height. 4’11” Catherine de Medici loved chopines, and is said to have influenced the French nobility’s liking of them (StartUp FASHION, 2015). The shoes were not only overly bedazzled, “‘the soles rose to heights that would cure even the most aggressive Napoleon complex- namely, 30+ inches. Wearers were referred to as “half woman, half wood.” These platforms were so tall, women needed walking poles and the assistance of a servant or two just to keep their balance while moving around (StartUp FASHION, 2015)”’.

Woman's Pianella Early 17th Century Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, United States

Spanish chopines, early 1580-1620 Spanish version of chopines with cork platforms

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Justifying the trend through examples: Flatforms, which are derived from choppiness, have been trendy both on and off the runway in 2016 and 2017. Designers such as Balmain, Dolce and Gabana, and Gucci released in their 2017 collections, flatforms that are both stylish and supportive (Carreon, 2016). Beyonce even wore platforms to accept her 2016 VMA award,mimicking the style of how chopines were covered by women dresses.

balmain flatforms 2016

dolce & gabbana 16

gucci 16

gucci 16

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Synergies with other fashion segments: Salvatore Ferragamo is the father of the modern platform. Despite material shortages in the 30’s under Musolini’s regime, the designer accepted the challenge and began exploring alternatives. Ferragamo realized that cork was readily available, durable, and lightweight.

Therefore he was able to stack layers of cork beneath a shoe’s sole to give it a significant amount of height without weighing it down. This resulted in what we now call the “wedge.” Carmen Miranda was a fan, and had a hand in popularizing the style (StartUp FASHION, 2015).

By the 1970’s, platforms had become wildly popular. The shoe style “‘paired well with bell-bottom jeans, which were a quintessential wardrobe item at the time. Platforms were so ubiquitous they were considered androgynous, worn by women and men alike. They were the “party shoe” of the era, having become synonymous with disco and the outrageous fashions that accompanied it. Seventies platforms were often adorned in outrageous ways, such as with glitter or tiny lights. One infamous version of the platform was the “aquarium,” which included live fish living inside the soles (StartUp FASHION, 2015).”’

Platforms were a big trend in the 90’s as well. Naomi Campbell famously tumbled to the ground, at a Vivienne Westwood show, due to the 9-inch platform heels she was sent down the runway in (StartUp FASHION, 2015). The style was also a “ favorite of the Spice Girls (particularly Gerri Halliwell, whose British flag platforms became iconic). The girl band popularized the look, and by the end of the decade every style of shoe, including sneakers, had been re-designed to include a platform (StartUp FASHION, 2015).”

Trend Prediction: As modern chopines, named flatforms and platforms, are comfortable and give height I don’t see a reason as to why they would dissapear. Women for centuries have admired the height platform shoes give them. It can make them feel empowered and equal in height to many men.

Platform shoes will continue to live in and out of fashion and as they do their support structures will continue to change and modernize.

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Carreon, J. (2016). 15 Spring Flatforms That Will Finally Make You Fall in Love With the Trend. [online] ELLE. Available at: http://www.elle.com/fashion/shopping/g28029/springflatforms-2016/ [Accessed 19 May 2017].

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Di Donato, J. (2015). The High Heel: A Brief History. [online] Paste Magazine. Available at: https://www.pastemagazine.com/articles/2015/05/the-high-heel-a-brief-history.html [Accessed 18 May 2017].

Garber, M. (2016). The Long (and Short) History of the Choker. [online] The Atlantic. Available at: https://www.theatlantic.com/entertainment/archive/2016/10/neck-and-neck-the-longand-short-history-of-the-choker/503315/ [Accessed 18 May 2017].

Graff, M. (2016). The History Behind ‌ The Choker. [online] National Jeweler. Available at: http://www.nationaljeweler.com/fashion/antique-estate-jewelry/4080-the-history-behindthe-choker [Accessed 18 May 2017].

Helen Oppenheim. (2016). Trend. Leg Of Mutton Sleeves - 2016. [online] Available at: http:// www.helenoppenheim.com/trend-leg-of-mutton-sleeves-2016/ [Accessed 18 May 2017].

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