Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
By: Alexandra Joan Gonzalez Baldwin BA Fashion Marketing & Communication Level 6, 2018-2019 6FAMK001C, Major Project, CWK2 Teacher/s: José Guerrero, Teresa Buhigas, and Enric Bayó
Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
Abstract:
This dissertation aims to develop a clear understanding on how the cosmetic industry interacts with the sustainable methodology, and if it is performing accurately. The author investigates what the current meaning of sustainability is, which is ‘well-being’. Solutions to ensuring ‘well-being’ in the current climate of the world are given, which are the zero waste and the circular economy. These theories are then applied to the current context of the cosmetic industry. The impacts cosmetics cause to the world, are discussed and are evaluated on based off of the Three Pillars of Sustainability, being the environment, social, and economical aspects, as well as the new important aspect of well-being. Brands who perceive themselves as ‘sustainable’ or who are initiating ‘sustainable’ methods are then benchmarked and discussed on whether their actions are truly ‘sustainable’. Consumer insight is attained as well as activism and influences towards sustainable cosmetics. Overall, it is found that due to a lack of global regulation, the industry has been able to cause harm to the environment, humans, animals, and the eco-system, which are all natural and non replacable life forms on Earth. Due to the lack of agreed regulation around the world, cosmetic companies are able to brand their products with ‘sustainable’ characteristics, as well as commit harmful impacts, which do not face any legislative consequence. As consumers are uneducated in terms of the true meaning of sustainability, and the full impacts the cosmetic industry causes, there is a lack of imminent incentive. However, with the help of global influencers voicing their knowledge and concern on the industry, consumers are becoming more aware and are demanding ‘sustainable’ cosmetics. They want to contribute to ‘sustainable’ causes, as Earth’s well-being is knowingly being harmed and affected negatively. Therefore, a zero-waste circulare economy is recommended for the cosmetic industry to follow, as well as for other industries. Well-being can not exist if harm continues, as it will drastically change the Earth, and continue to affect Earth’s living beings and non-renewable resources.
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By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Aknowledgements:
I would like to first and foremost thank my dad for supporting me in attaining this bachelor’s degree. Without him, none of this would have been possible. I would also like to thank my mom for always believing in me and for influencing me to come to Barcelona as an alternative to attending college in the USA. As for academic help, I am so very thankful for my primary tutor Teresa Buhigas. She helped guide me to develop a topic that I am passionate about, and always had an extemely supportive and knowledgeable approach to every session we shared together. She is not only an amazing tutor, but one of the smartest and hardest working women I know. Lastly, I would like to thank my specialized tutor Clara Mallart. She awakened my passion for sustainability with her classes and inspired my entire thesis’ purpose as well as my desired professional career. Her help during this process was also very beneficial and supportive. Through all of the support, I declare that this thesis has solely been written by me. My goal, from the beginning, was to be proud of this work as I aim to use this for future professional knowledge and usage. Word Count: 8,988
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Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
Table of Contents: 1. Introduction 6-9 Motivation 6-7 General Aim & Research Objectives 8 Research Questions 9 2. Research Methodology 10-11 3. Literature Review: 12-19 I. Understand the Current Meaning of Sustainability 14-17 1. What is the evolution of the term “Sustainability” 14 2. Are there Complementary Aspects Featuring the Sustainable Challenge 15 3. What are the Solutions to Provoke? 18-19 4. Data Results 22-79 II. Discover What Makes a Cosmetic Sustainable 1. History of Cosmetics Toward Sustainability 2. What is the Current Understanding of Sustainable Cosmetics? 3. Are Brands Truthfuly Labeling? 4. Is Sustainable Cosmetics Relevant in Terms of Well-being?
22-23 22-23 24-33 34-35 36-37
III. Examine the Actions and Limitations of Sustainable Cosmetics 1. Are there Government Actions Supporting Sustainable Ingredients and Packaging? 2. What are the Government Limitations Regarding Sustainable Ingredients and Packaging? 3. Are there Issues or Limitations Regarding Non-Effective Solutions? 4. Is there Corruption and Lobbying of Sustainable Cosmetics?
38-45 38-39 40-41 42-43 44-45
IV. Aknowledge the Global Cosmetic Industry 46-49 1. What is the Global Market Size of Cosmetics? 46 2. What are the Top Beauty Products? 47-48 3. What are the Top Factors Impacting the Global Cosmetic Industry? 48 V. Aknowledge the Sustainable Cosmetic Industry 1. What is the Market Size? 2. Are there Impacts on Animals, the Environment, or Alternatives? 3. What Examples are there of Transparent and Ethical Cosmetic Brands? 4. Are there Forms to Meausre Greenwashing?
50-63 50-51 52-59 60-61 62-63
VI. Identify the Perception of Sustainability 1. Who are the Sustainable Cosmetic Consumers? 2. What type of Activism/Influencers are Adressing the Current Cosmetic Industry?
64-71 64-69 70-71
VII. Evaluate How Cosmetic Brands are Performing in Regarding to Sustainability 72-79 1. What are the Key Facts and Figures Regarding the Leading Corporations 72-75 2. Which “Sustainable” Cosmetic Brands are Really Sustainable? Benchmark 76-79 4
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
5. Final Discussion and Conclusions 80-83 6. Limitations 84 7. Future Research 85 6. Work Cited 86-96 Dissertation 88-92 Figures 93-95 Annex 96 7. Annex 97-103
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Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
Introduction: Motivation:
The Cosmetic Industry is huge, in terms of global scope and size, yet has a strange relationship with sustainability. Its industrial and mass produced system is unsustainable as it consumes Earth’s resources while normally polluting Earth, after one single use, as some products are only meant to be used once. This linear economy that the cosmetic industry adheres to is destroying the planet’s natural state and is affecting many living organisms in the process. Interestingly enough, consumers or legislators are not as concerned about the cosmetic industry, as other also harmful industries. Why is the cosmetic industry not a large concern of humans? Are ‘sustainable’ cosmetics really a solution? Will humans demand for sustainable change within this industry? The author’s reasoning behind choosing this topic is due to her growing concern and passion for sustainable practices. Images, reports, and personal experiences with the effects of pollution and harm to the environment are a concern are being shared with the world. For younger generations, these climate change warnings are concerning, therefore most are more willing to partake in a sustainable lifestyle. If sustainable initiatives are not taken seriously, harmful and irreversible climate changes will occur, according to scientists, that will impact all life on Earth. Also, the cosmetic industry is also a passion of the author as its wide product portfolio gives confidence to its users; therefore, sustainable solutions are desired to be found.
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By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
The world’s leading climate scientists have warned there is only a dozen years for global warming to be kept to a maximum of 1.5C, beyond which even half a degree will significantly worsen the risks of drought, floods, extreme heat and poverty for hundreds of millions of people.- (Watts, 2018)
“the UN Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) say urgent and unprecedented changes are needed to reach the target .- (Watts, 2018)
“The world is currently 1C warmer than preindustrial levels. Following devastating hurricanes in the US, record droughts in Cape Town and forest fires in the Arctic, the IPCC makes clear that climate change is already happening, upgraded its risk warning from previous reports, and warned that every fraction of additional warming would worsen the impact.”- (Watts, 2018)
“Human activities are behind nature’s decline. Thanks to human pressures, one million species may be pushed to extinction in the next few years, with serious consequences for human beings as well as the rest of life on Earth.” - (Leahy, 2019)
Figure 1: Climate Change 7
Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
Introduction: The Aim: The aim of this thesis is to develop a clear understanding on how the cosmetic industry interacts with the sustainable methodology and if it is performing accurately.
Objectives:
I. Understand the Current Meaning of Sustainability II. Discover What Makes a Cosmetic Sustainable III. Examine the Actions and Limitations of Sustainable Cosmetics IV. Aknowledge the Global Cosmetic Industry V. Aknowledge the Sustainable Cosmetic Industry VI. Identify the Perception of Sustainability VII. Evaluate How Cosmetic Brands are Performing in Regarding to Sustainability
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By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Research Questions: I. Understand the Current Meaning of Sustainability 1. What is the evolution of the term “Sustainability” 2. Are there Complementary Aspects Featuring the Sustainable Challenge 3. What are the Solutions to Provoke? II. Discover What Makes a Cosmetic Sustainable 1. History of Cosmetics Toward Sustainability 2. What is the Current Understanding of Sustainable Cosmetics? 3. Are Brands Truthfuly Labeling? 4. Is Sustainable Cosmetics Relevant in Terms of Well-being? III. Examine the Actions and Limitations of Sustainable Cosmetics 1. Are there Government Actions Supporting Sustainable Ingredients and Packaging? 2. What are the Government Limitations Regarding Sustainable Ingredients and Packaging? 3. Are there Issues or Limitations Regarding Non-Effective Solutions? 4. Is thereCorruption and Lobbying of Sustainable Cosmetics? IV. Aknowledge the Global Cosmetic Industry 1. What is the Global Market Size of Cosmetics? 2. What are the Top Beauty Products? 3. What are the Top Factors Impacting the Global Cosmetic Industry? V. Aknowledge the Sustainable Cosmetic Industry 1. What is the Market Size? 2. Are there Impacts on Animals, the Environment, or Alternatives? 3. What Examples are there of Transparent and Ethical Cosmetic Brands? 4. Are there Forms to Meausre Greenwashing? VI. Identify the Perception of Sustainability 1. Who are the Sustainable Cosmetic Consumers? 2. What type of Activism/Influencers are Adressing the Current Cosmetic Industry? VII. Evaluate How Cosmetic Brands are Performing in Regarding to Sustainability 1. What are the Key Facts and Figures Regarding the Leading Corporations 2. Which “Sustainable” Cosmetic Brands are Really Sustainable? Benchmark
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Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
Methodology:
As this thesis aims to answer objectives and questions regarding the current cosmetic and sustainable cosmetic industry, this paper is deep in data results. However, literary background and theories were needed to answer the Literature Review’s sole objective which is to ‘Understand the Current Meaning of Sustainability’. Through qualitative secondary sources from books, academic articles, and journals, the author was able to obtain the theorized history of sustainability, as well as theories that add on to the notorious Brundtland’s Report’s definition which is to “meet the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs”. Elkington’s ‘Triple Bottom Line’ concept, the addition of ‘well-being’, transparency, weak and strong sustainability, as well as paradoxes is discussed to answer this first objective. Also, solutions to provoke sustainability were discovered, such as ‘Zero Waste’ and the ‘Circular Economy’, for further implementation in the data results and conclusion. After understanding sustainability, and creating visual models to summarize its meaning, the author dove into the data results, which consists of most of this paper. Data results were needed in order to answer the majority of this thesis’ questions. Quantitative sources were also used in the data results, from the literature review. ‘What makes a cosmetic sustainable?’, is the first objective that needed to be answered to understand the current context of how the industry evalutes sustainability. This objective was necessary in order to understand the current context of cosmetics and to validate how business’ do not always have the best interest of others in mind. This objective also defines what makes cosmetics sustainable, or not; which as a primary source the author concluded by herself. The third objective aims to answer the overall reasoning as to what legislators are doing in terms of supporting sustainability, as well as what are they doing to limit its growth. It also highlights upon the fact that there are issues with alternatives, as not all are perfect in the standards of sustainability. Objective four and five aim to display the market size of the cosmetic and sustaiable cosmetic industry, while also mentioning the need for sustainable cosmetics, in objective five, as much harm has resulted from the beauty market. Objective six aims to aknowledge consumers views, from secondary sources. It also discusses the rise in consumer education thanks to activism and influencers who are virtually spreading the concern for sustainability. Lastly, objective seven measures, based off of all the information previously attained, how corporations are implementing sustainable methods, and if they are truly ‘sustainable’, or not. Primary sources were used again, by the author, when creating her own benchmark of brands who portray themselves as “sustainable”, as well as visual figures and models. Overall, the author needed to grasp a full understanding of what sustainability means in current times and how that meaning is being applied to the cosmetic industry. Conclusions after every objective, aided the author in creating her own conclusion for this dissertation. This thesis could have only been done through the help of secondary sources which supported the author’s final conclusion.
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By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Literature Review: I. Understand the Current Meaning of Sustainability 1. What is the evolution of the term “Sustainability” 2. Are there Complementary Aspects Featuring the Sustainable Challenge 3. What are the Solutions to Provoke?
Data Analysis: II. Discover What Makes a Cosmetic Sustainable 1. History of Cosmetics Toward Sustainability 2. What is the Current Understanding of Sustainable Cosmetics? 3. Are Brands Truthfuly Labeling? 4. Is Sustainable Cosmetics Relevant in Terms of Well-being? III. Examine the Actions and Limitations of Sustainable Cosmetics 1. Are there Government Actions Supporting Sustainable Ingredients and Packaging? 2. What are the Government Limitations Regarding Sustainable Ingredients and Packaging? 3. Are there Issues or Limitations Regarding Non-Effective Solutions? 4. Is thereCorruption and Lobbying of Sustainable Cosmetics? IV. Aknowledge the Global Cosmetic Industry 1. What is the Global Market Size of Cosmetics? 2. What are the Top Beauty Products? 3. What are the Top Factors Impacting the Global Cosmetic Industry? V. Aknowledge the Sustainable Cosmetic Industry 1. What is the Market Size? 2. Are there Impacts on Animals, the Environment, or Alternatives? 3. What Examples are there of Transparent and Ethical Cosmetic Brands? 4. Are there Forms to Meausre Greenwashing? VI. Identify the Perception of Sustainability 1. Who are the Sustainable Cosmetic Consumers? 2. What type of Activism/Influencers are Adressing the Current Cosmetic Industry? VII. Evaluate How Cosmetic Brands are Performing in Regarding to Sustainability 1. What are the Key Facts and Figures Regarding the Leading Corporations 2. Which “Sustainable” Cosmetic Brands are Really Sustainable? Benchmark
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Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
Literature Review:
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By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
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Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
I. UNDERSTAND THE CURRENT MEANING OF SUSTAINABILITY
1. What is the Evolution of the term “Sustainability”? Sustainability is an ancient term created by Paleolithic ancestors out of primitive concern for resources and the environment. It is stated that the word was first used due to extinction scares of prey and the maintenance of soil fertility. Later, the term was coined as ‘Nachaltigkeit’ in 1713, by Germans, for forestry purposes and it means “never harvesting more than the forest yields in growth” (Kuhlman and Farrington, 2010). Centuries later, as humans began to use fossil fuels, enter into destructive wars, and experience industrial pollution, the term was redefined by the United Nations. After The Club of Rome report was released, which predicted that many natural resources crucial to living-being’s survival would be exhausted within one or two generations, the UN World Commission on Environment and Development, also known as the Brundtland Report of 1987, was conduced to answer the question of: ‘how can the aspirations of the world’s nations for a better life be reconciled with limited natural resources and the dangers of environmental degradation’? This question provoked the Brundtland Report’s definition of sustainable development, which is to “meet the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs” (Kuhlman and Farrington, 2010) .
CONCLUSION: 1. What is the Evolution of the term “Sustainability”? Sustainability is a complex topic that has not yet been formally redefined since the late 1980’s. Its most notorious definition stems from the Brundtland Report, as that was the first time legislators formally adressed the concern of sustainability. Although, Elkington’s Triple Bottom Line, is the most used concept of the term, as it answers the Brundtland’s questions with his own theory that social, economic, and environmental aspects should be respected in order to achieve sustainability. However, in 2018 he changed his perspective; as his theory has been taken to seriously by capitalists, who have not considered all the other aspects, with most importantly the environment, he now states that “well-being” must also be measured as it is extremely threatened. 2. Are there Complementary Aspects Featuring the Sustainable Challenge?
Kuhlman and Farrington propose to replace the social and economic dimensions of sustainability with a single dimension called “well-being”. It should be a policy goal that must be balanced with a new termed sustainability. They argue that by measuring well-being and sustainability separately, it will enhance the transparHowever, the Brundtland’s definition was not clear ency of the policy formulation process, as the meaor true enough for Elkington, who coined the Triple surements will have to debated openly, between econBottom Line concept in 1994 (Elkington, 2004). This omists, ecologists, and sociologists, instead of being theory constitutes that there are three elements to passed obscurely by different parties. The new term of sustainability for business concerns, which are: social, sustainability should be perceived to be for maintaining economic, and environmental aspects. Although, in well- being over a long and perhaps indefinite period. 2018, Elkington aims to rephrase his infamous theory It is also mostly focused on the environmental aspect as “well-being” must also be measured. As Earth’s (Kuhlman and Farrington, 2010). climate, water resources, oceans, forests, soils and biodiversity are increasingly threatened, the well being The authors also define the the theories of weak and of those aspects and of living beings interactions strong sustainability, which have been cited from within them should be taken into account, as well, in (Pearce, Markandya and Barbier, 1989) : his theory. He also states that his concept has been misinterpreted as its mission is not to solely focus on (i) That the next generation should inherit a stock of economical accounting business measurement, but to wealth, comprising man-made assets and environprovoke breakthrough change for future capitalism and mental assets, no less than the stock inherited by the inspire market solutions (Elkington, 2018). previous generation; (ii) That the next generation should inherit a stock of environmental assets no less than the stock inherited by the previous generation. 14
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
Kuhlman and Farrington state that it is not either weak or strong sustainability society must choose, but one is needed for one type of resource while the other is for another type. For instance, the depletion of fossil fuels is an issue of weak sustainability provided that other sources of energy are developed instead. An extinct species cannot be recovered, therefore this is a concern of strong sustainability. Normally, ecologists and other natural scientists favor strong sustainability as they focus on non-substitutable ecosystem functions; while economists tend to favor weak sustainability as it gives them the freedom to use their substitutional capital models. ‘Well-being’ is a linked term to strong sustainability as the environment and social aspects cannot be artificially replicated; they potentially can, however psychologically and health wise the effects would be questionable. They state that human life exists only by the grace of nature, and if humans damage the ecosystem it will be at humans own peril. Also, in an ethical viewpoint, humans do not have the right to destroy the right to life of other species, and that it is the responsibility of humans to preserve the beauty and diversity of Earth’s natural environment for our own enjoyment as well as for future generations. They state that it is not possible for policy makers to prevent completely the extinction of species, the decrease of natural habitats, or the disappearance of valuable landscapes, but it is not the point of strong sustainability. The point is that the policy makers should decide in advance what types of impact are tolerable, and that negative impacts where compensated for in order to maintain well-being (Kuhlman and Farrington, 2010). Jay, Soderstrom and Grant (2017) believe that there are paradoxes within Brundtland’s and alternate definition of sustainability as not all aspects are cared for at once. They include into their argument Smith and Berg (1987) who wrote “Paradoxes” and Hardin (1968), who theorize that different parts or viewpoints create paradoxes between ideologies. An example given is for instance the debate between fisherman
IED 2019
and scientists with the fish population. Each group has their own experiences and beliefs of the topic and therefore battle the topic of regulation. This follows with current tensions between economic development, the ecosystem, and health for all, as different organizations have different beliefs, therefore creating a difficult situation for each body to compromise on sustainable development. The authors of this chapter created a figure of key issues (Figure 2) that arise within bodies toward sustainable development. They state that some may advocate for the good of the part or the good of the whole in that polarity, while others may hope to synthesize or transcend these contradictions. Singh, Murty, Gapta, and Dikshit (2009) also discuss how that although there are various international efforts on measuring sustainability, such as: The World Business Council for Sustainable Development (Wbcsd, n.d.), and Global Reporting Initiative (GRI Empowering Sustainable Initiatives, n.d.) as well as standards, only a few of them have an integral approach taking into account all three spheres of sustainable development. In most cases, the focus is only one one of the three aspects. They state that although different methodologies can be supplementary to one another, it proves difficult to interlink them. It is also very important to carefully construct and monitor an index, as if they are not it will provide misleading results. The authors suggest indices should be revisited and refined based on the appropriate communities of interest. Therefore, they should be constructed within a coherent framework, as it would influence the policy goal and ensure that the evaluation process involved could change throughout time according to the interests of the particular stakeholders involved in the construction of the indicator. Indicators are also an important and useful tool for policy making and public communication in conveying information on countries’ performance in the three spheres of sustainability development, as well as technological development. Conclusion is displayed on page 16.
15 Figure 2: Paradoxes: Key Issues
Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
CONCLUSION: 2. Are there Complementary Aspects Featuring the Sustainable Challenge? As sustainability has not been formally defined, there are many other complementary opinions on how sustainability should be measured. Kuhlman and Farrington agree with Elkington’s additional dimension of “well-being”, and state that it should be measured next to social, economic, and environmental aspects. They believe that well-being is important as it will enhance the transparency of policies and actions, as it should be debated openly due it being the result of humans’ actions. There is also the belief of strong and weak sustainability which argue that one resource can never be replaced while another can be. Well-being is a linked term to strong sustainability as it protects the environmental and social aspects which can not be artificially replicated, as Earth would never be completely the same, and “well-being” would be strongly questioned . Strong sustainability is preferable, as it respects nature and does not want to disrupt it, while weak sustainability believes that some parts of nature can be replaced artificially. Therefore, it is up to policy makers to decide on which term they side on, as they control the overall well-being of this Earth. Complimenting the views above, Jay, Soderstrom, and Grant believe that there is an issue of “paradoxes” within sustainability. As there have been different intents on defining sustainability, not all of them have been respected at once; due to biased opinions, some aspects suffer while others thrive. This idea of paradoxes also exists in current international metrics on sustainability. They state that not all methodologies are integral, and that indices should be re-evaluated often as events change. Evaluating sustainability through integral standards and indices are important as they control the economical side of sustainability to ensure that it respects the other concerns as well.
OVERALL CONCLUSION: Well-being is now universally agreed, by all authors mentioned, to be the new identification of sustainability; as all aspects, on this planet, are being threatened. If capitalism continues, with the economical aspect remaining in the ideology of sustainability, some resources will be extinguished and reinvented, while other necessary and irreplacable resources should be protected. It is up to policy makers to decide which resources to protect for the well-being of this Earth, and with their help integral standards and indices should aid in this multi-dimensional concern. A model has been drawn up by the author, on page 17 to visually conclude on the current sustainability model.
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By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
ity rs iv e io d B
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Figure 3: Summarized model of Sustainability’s current meaning
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Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
3. What are the Solutions to Provoke? responsible for climate change. The model extracts primary natural resources, produces an increasing amount of products generally designed not to last and involves toxic impacts, transports the materials or products worldwide using energy-intensive means, ensures quick and compulsive consumption, and lastly disposes of the product in landfills or incinerators. It not only drives over consumption and an unsustainable exploitation of natural resources, but it also contributes to an ever increasing spiral of waste producConnett (2013) references the Zero Waste Internation- tion. Therefore, she recommends humankind to follow a zero waste circular economy. She believes that it al Alliance (ZWIA) who in 2004 established the only can be a “game-changer to achieve the global target of peer-reviewed definition of zero waste, which is “ a goal that is ethical, economical, efficient, and visionary, a maximum of 1.5ºC global warming” (Vilella, 2018). to guide people in changing their lifestyles and practices to emulate sustainable natural cycles, where all dis- Vilella states that it its necessary that climate policies are upgraded and aligned with the zero waste circular carded materials are designed to become resources economy principles, as it is the only solution to mend for others to use”, it means “designing and managing the distinctive industrial civilization of the modern-era. products and processes to systematically avoid and eliminate the volume and toxicity of waste and materi- Countries are already adapting to zero waste paths; for instance, Europe and the US have began to phase als, conserve and recover all resources, and not burn out incinerators, and are now setting year goals to beor bury them” (Connett, 2013). come zero waste. Ultimately, policies will be required to make this movement legal and economically viable. Connett (2013) also states that since the industrial Services will be sold instead of goods, durable goods revolution, humans have imposed a linear society on this planet when in reality it functions in circles. There- will be reparable, reusable and upgradable, shared or leased ownership will be promoted, and deposit and fore, manufacture, consumption, and waste disposal return programs will exist (Vilella, 2018). are unnatural especially with the rapidness and mass production needed for the current planet. He proposes to add “redesign” to the three r’s of “reduce, reuse, and recycle” to better solve the sustainability crisis. He proposes that all individuals, communities, industries, professionals, and politicians, should come together to CONCLUSION develop a sustainable zero-waste future plan. Connett 3. What are the Solutions to Provoke? also believes that if society were to return to older and more sustainable habits and activities, waste and To answer the question, currently it is to follow a Zedamage would be minimized to almost nothing (Conro-Waste Circular Economy. As “well-being” is curnett, 2013). rently threatened, as mentioned previously, due to an overwheming amount of waste and harmful processZero Waste cooperates with the idea of the Circular es, a circular economy that reuses and replenishes its Economy. The Ellen MacArthur Foundation states that sources, while not causing resulting harm is the soluthe Circular Economy is “a new way to design, make, tion. In order to achieve this concept, every individual and use things within planetary boundaries ” (Ellen from all sectors must plan to redesign their actions Macarthur Foundation, n.d.). The foundation states in order to prevent continual harm. A model has that if humans were to view waste as a design flaw been drawn up by the author, on page 19, to highlight and were to harness new materials and technologies, the processes humans should make in order to follow waste and pollution could cease to exist. Therefore, in a Zero-Waste Circular Economy. order to achieve a CE, everyone and everything would need to adapt to the new system. Waste and pollution will be designed as intolerable, products and materials will be deemed infinitely reusable, and natural systems will be regenerated (Ellen Macarthur Foundation, n.d.). A ubiquitous solution arises for all modern-day issues caused by the industrial civilization, and that is the Zero-Waste movement. This ideology or lifestyle endorses the concept of leaving no waste. Iron states how humans have assumed that the Earth would adapt to the industrialization and would re-build itself; however sea levels are rising, the weather is violently changing, and species are becoming extinct and sick (Connett, 2013).
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Vilella (2018) states that a linear economy has led to a rapid increase in resource extraction and is
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
The best waste is that which is never produced in the first place
Figure 4: Zero-Waste Circular Economy
PRODUCTS
Figure 5: Zero-waste
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Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
Data Results:
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By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
“It might seem like we own the earth, and we certainly act that way, but I don’t believe we do. I think this lack of sensitivity towards that natural world is a result of our alienation from it. We don’t see, hear, or feel the land anymore. We only see it from the point of view of what we can do with it. We have become so totally committed to changing our environment that we have become oblivious to the fact that the world around us is a creation in itself – God’s creation.” ~Bill Mason (Heintzman, 2007)
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Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
II. DISCOVER WHAT MAKES A COSMETIC SUSTAINABLE 1. History of Cosmetics Towards Sustainability
HISTORY
HISTORY
According to Chaudhri and Jain, the term cosmetics derive from ‘cosmetae’, used to describe Roman slaves whose function was to bathe men and women in perfume. As early as 10,000 BC, men and women used scented oils and ointments to clean and soften their skin and mask body odor. Dyes and paints were used to color the skin, body and hair, and lips, cheeks, nails, and more were stained or lined with henna or kohl. Also, many different types of ingredients were used ranging from bird droppings to kohl. The Egyptians used natural cosmetics for hygiene and health. They believed that “cleanliness is godliness” and to “smell beautifully was a sign of holiness”, while bad breath or bad body odors were shameful (Jain and Chaudhri, 2009)
Throughout history, cosmetics have been used for many different reasons in different regions. Cosmetics have and continue to represent power, identity, and holiness, depending on ones region. However, it was not until the late 1800’s and early 1900’s that cosmetics were technologically improved and sold in masses to the monetary market for appearance purposes (Jain and Chaudhri, 2009)
COSMETIC REGULATION As cosmetics began to be mass produced by the industrial revolution, the industry began to implement more concoctions of synthetic chemical ingredients with natural ingredients, without regulation to control their possible harmful impacts. After women gained voting rights in the United States in 1920, the Federal Drug and Cosmetic Act was enacted by the FDA in 1938. This was the first time cosmetics had ever been under regulation. Despite this regulation not being as strict as that of the Food and Drug laws, it forbid all known dangerous cosmetics and abided that all cosmetics which include dangerous ingredients label their products with a warning on their packaging. Prior to this law, ingredients such as thallium acetate, which was used as a rat poison and mercury at high levels were being used with horrific effects. Cosmetic brands feared having to label their ingredients, as they felt it would acquire competition (Boome, 2018)
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NATURAL? ORGANIC? ORGANIC? NATURAL? As of 2018, cosmetics, in the US, are not FDA approved, instead they are FDA authorized. Businesses are encouraged to do safety checks on their ingredients, however are not forced. The United States is surprisingly under regulated while developed countries such as those in the EU and Canada have thorough regulations. However, change is demanded from legislators and consumers in the United States for instance. The FDA has also not defined the terms “natural” or “organic, therefore misbranding can occur, which Boome advocates towards defined terms (Boome, 2018).
SUSTAINABLE COSMETICS? According to Sahota (2014), cosmetics are questionable in terms of how they can be sustainable. She wonders how the cosmetic industry will continue to raise production levels whilst using increasingly finite resources. Although, she supports the continuation of cosmetic products as it has shown to raise the confidence and well-being of wearers in society. Also, cosmetics have been around since ancient civilizations such as that of the Egyptians, thus her argument is that cosmetics have and always will be an integral part of human society (Sahota, 2014).
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Figure 6: Cosmetic categories
Khan and Alam (2019) state that cosmetics are products applied to the body for the purpose of beautifying, cleansing or improving appearance and enhancing attractive features. The category consists of a range of products such as hair cleansers, makeup products, lotions, gels, creams, perfumes, antiperspirants, and nail polishes, in general. ‘Make up’ is the most used category in cosmetics and is meant to cater the user’s appearance with color. The authors cite from Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry that skincare or cosmetic products are mixtures of synthetic or natural chemical compounds used to improve the appearance or smell of the body. They are articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, introduced into, or applied to the human body in any way to promote attractiveness, cleansing, beautifying, or altering the appearance without affecting the body structure or functions (Khan and Alam, 2019)
CONCLUSION: 1. History of Cosmetics Towards Sustainability In conclusion, cosmetics have thrived for thousands of years and will most likely remain as they have constantly given human-beings a sense of power and confidence. However, as the industrial civilization began to grow, cosmetics became less natural and instead formulated for ease, mass consumption, and efficiency. The majority of the Cosmetic Industry has ignored the benefits of natural cosmetics, due to synthetic and constant technologically advanced products being what consumers have appreciated. Governments have also acted leniently towards businesses in marketing their products as sustainable, with no proof. However, consumers have become more aware 23 and are demanding cleaner cosmetics that cause no harm.
Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
2. What is the Current Understanding of Sustainable Cosmetics?
GREEN COSMETICS The most common terminology associated with sustainable cosmetics is if it is“Green”. Csorb and Boglea (2011) state that in the beginning, green products started as a marketing tactic. However, with time, it evolved into a strong belief aimed at saving, nurturing, or restoring the environment. It also means ensuring a safe and healthy life for consumers’ security. Green products are not a new concept, as many companies have solely aimed at using botanical and fruit-based formulas from the start of their business. The “Green philosophy”, covers an entire range of ingredients, formulations, packaging, advertising and general image, and sustainable philosophy (Csorba and Boglea, 2011).
CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY
GREEN COMPANIES AND CONSUMER DEMAND Csorba and Boglea (2011) believe that many companies appear to have hesitations on adapting to the Green market change as they worry about consistency and preservative efficiency. Therefore, most companies who partake in this trend are normally small to mid-sized, however this is changing with time. With more consumer demand, there will be more supply from cosmetic businesses; also, higher prices should go down with a greater supply and demand (Csorba and Boglea, 2011).
Cosmetics Europe states that a sustainable cosmetic brand will also be involved in CSR. This means that they offer a holistic sustainability approach by implementing sustainable concepts throughout their organization and their sphere of influence, including their supply chain. There is guidance on how a company can achieve CSR, such as the World Business Council. In its report entitled ‘Sustainability Through the Market: Seven Keys to Success’7 (Wbcsd, n.d.), it offers businesses a roadmap to implement and benefit from sustainable practices. Cosmetics Europe therefore supports an approach based on life cycle thinking and involving the three pillars of sustainability into sustainable cosmetics (Good Sustainability practice (GSP) For the cosmetics industry, 2012).
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By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING Green products are also focused on using minimal waste; therefore, most companies are redesigning their products packaging to be recycled and environmentally friendly for sustainably conscious consumer. Most natural/green cosmetic lines incorporate recycled paper packaging and biodegradable plastic with their packaging. Sahota states that sustainable packaging must be biodegradable, recyclable and/or renewable. In order to combat the problem arising from plastic, metal, and glass packaging materials, natural and biodegradable materials, which can decompose in 1-2 years, are efficient for sustainability. Products that can be recycled are also sustainable as they can be reused in an upcycled manner. Packaging materials should also be renewable and infinite. As fossil fuels, which produce plastic, are finite, they are unsustainable as their resources are not renewable and their end products do not decompose. All of these three options, mentioned above, for sustainable packaging are gaining popularity (Sahota, 2014).
ETHICAL CRUELTY-FREE GREEN BENEFITS Csorba and Boglea (2011) state that the benefits of ‘Green’ cosmetics are less breakouts, no animal testing, 100% free of toxins, pesticides, allergenic substances, radiation, and other pollutants. They are also biologically degradable (Csorba and Boglea, 2011).
Sustainable cosmetics do not test on animals as it is unethical and does not value the ‘welfare’ and ‘well-being’ of the animals affected. A consumer can identify if a cosmetic is truly not tested on animals if their product is labelled ‘cruelty free’ by the Cruelty Free International organization and/or displays the Leaping Bunny logo, meaning they are verified under the Humane Cosmetics Standard (Sahota, 2014). If the product does not have these certifications, then it is most likely that the brand is not complaint with the standards.
SUMMARY: Overall, Sustainable cosmetics are also known as Green cosmetics, with other aspects that protect the idea of well-being. Green cosmetics are cosmetics that save, nurture, or restore the environment while ensuring a safe and healthy life for consumers’ security. Therefore, Green Cosmetics are cosmetics that protect the well-being of living beings’ health and the natural world, including animals. Sustainable products can not harm animals, therefore they should be certified ‘cruelty free’. They also should evoke little to no waste, being either reusable/refillable or be able to decompose in 1-2 years. The resources from which they come from, should be renewable and cause no harm to its well-being. Overall, companies have been hesitant on switching to sustainable cosmetics due to product efficiency, however those that are will be appreciated by a spiked consumer demand. For companies to be sustainable, they must also be involved in CSR, meaning caring for their supply chain and the life cycle effects of their product.
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Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
Figure 7: Sample of Natural and Finite Cosmetic Ingredients and their Impacts
Affects hormones and the reproductive system Damages the area applied
The Outstanding Ingredients listed in the KEY
KEY: Outstanding Natural/Finite Cosmetic Ingredients :
Cadmium Lead Nickel Mercury
Damages DNA Mutation Allergic Reactions Cancer
Impacts on Human Health:
Mica
Impacts on Human Labor:
Natural ingredients can exploit child laborers in third world countries, such as India, and threaten their wellbeing by paying them “less than a quarter a day”, and are subjected to perilous circumstances as they mine deep underground for the mineral
Natural and Finite Cosmetic Ingredients:
Impacts on Animals:
Impacts on the Environment/ Eco-system:
Botanical Extracts
Plant species can become extinct due to unregulated over-harvesting 26
Palm Oil
Known to be responsible for the destruction of tropical rainforests, which threatens the habitat of endangered species such as Orangutans
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Figure 8: Orangutans are in danger, in their natural habitat of the forest, due to unsustainable palm oil plantations
Figure 9: Children mining underground for MIca
SUMMARY:
Natural and Finite Cosmetic Ingredients In conclusion, natural ingredients are not better than synthetic as they also harm humans health, animals, the environment, and human laborers. Cadmium, Lead, Nickel, and Mercury are all sample ingredients which are natural yet finite and cause harsh human implications such as hormonal damage, cancer, and damage to the area applied. Mica, is another natural ingredient, a mineral, which exploits child laborers and hides the truth from consumers. By using an abundant amount of botanical extracts, in an unregulated and non-sustainable manner, the plant species can become extinct. Palm oil is an ingredient that sounds safe, however is responsible for the destruction of tropical rainforests, which has threatened the habitat of endangered species and has killed them in the process. 27
Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
Figure 10: Sample of Synthetic Cosmetic Ingredients and their Impacts
“Studies by the Environmental Working Group prove that the average person exposes themselves to 126 ingredients in total. Ingredients that are commonly either synthetic, toxic, known skin irritants or carcinogens that can play havoc with our hormonal balance” - (Botani, n.d.)
They can be ingested: orally through water, consumption of marine products which contain microplastics, through the skin via cosmetics, or inhalation of particles in the air
Affects hormones and the reproductive system
Phtalates
Damages the area applied ALL Synthetic Ingredients listed in the KEY
Damages DNA Mutation Allergic Reactions Cancer Microplastics
Impacts on Human Health:
Para Hydroxy Benzonate (Parabens) and Propylene & Polyethylene Glycols
ALL Synthetic Ingredients listed in the KEY
Impacts on Human Labor: Workers are submitted to human health effects during the production of a synthetic cosmetic product and the usage of the product for its cosmetic effects (e.g hairstylists conducting Brazilian Blowout’s with formaldehyde)
Synthetic Cosmetic Ingredients:
Impacts on Animals:
Impacts on the Environment/ Eco-system:
Microplastics
Formaldehyde
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The fracking, mining, or burning for Fossil Fuels is very damaging and is not infinte in supply. This process requires much energy and long-distance transportation, and also causes health issues to humans and eco-system destruction
Harmful chemicals enter waterways, after usage, and are intoxicating aquatic bacteria, aquatic wildlife, and human water
ALL Synthetic Ingredients listed in the KEY
Cruel animal tests continue to check safety levels of cosmetic ingredients and final products KEY: ALL Synthetic Chemicals: BHA & BHT Coal Tar Dyes DEA & DBP Para Hydroxy Benzonate (Parabens) Perfume (Fragrance) Propylene & Polyethylene Glycols Petrolatum Siloxane Alpha Hydroxy Acids Microplastics Phtalates Triclosan Petrochemical oils Aluminum Salts Formaldehyde
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Figure 11: Microplastics next to a fish
Figure 12: Synthetic ingredient tests on animals
SUMMARY:
Synthetic Cosmetic Ingredients Synthetic ingredients harm humans health, animals, the environment, and human labor as well; however, cause many more harmful impacts than those of natural ingredients. Microplastics are causing harm to human as their remains can be consumed accidentally through various different ways, such as from water or from marine products which have consumed microplastics. This ingredient, as well as all the others mentioned in the key, cause harmful health implications to humans.
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Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
Figure 13: Sample of Cosmetic Packaging Materials and their Impacts
KEY: Packaging Materials:
Plastic Metal Glass Paper All
The contact of Aluminum (Metal) packaging and humans, has been linked to causing Alzheimer’s and Parkinson’s disease (Kawahara and Kato-Negishi, 2011) An accidental human intake of Aluminum’s ‘epoxy resin’, into a consumer’s digestive system, can poison and cause peril to the consumer (Kawahara and Kato-Negishi, 2011)
Sourcing for plastic, from petroleum fossil fuels, is perilous (with oil spills/explosions) and many workers are prone to deaths or health issues. Workers in plastic factory’s are prone to respiratory and auditory health disorders (Ahmed et al., 2016) (Morris, 2018)
Impacts Human Labor:
Mineral sourcing, of Metal, for packaging is similar to the sourcing of mineral ingredients; unethical, cheap labor, and perilous practices are conducted (Carvalho, 2017). The cardboard that envelops perfumes, serums and moisturisers contributes to the loss of 18 million acres of forest each year (Nouril, 2019).
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Plastic is the worst, as it does not decompose but disintegrates into microplastics , which affects ecosystems’ health and creates infinite waste. It also releases toxic chemicals upon disintegrating (UN Environment, 2018)
Many chemicals used to make plastic, for packaging, are highly hazardous to human health and transfers into the products they package, which transfers to the consumer (Groh et al., 2019)
Impacts on Human Health:
Glass can break easily and can put humans in danger of cutting themselves or ingesting broken pieces (Sherman, 2017)
Current Cosmetic Packaging:
Impacts on the Environment/ Eco-system:
Aluminum can take up to 500 years to decompose (ERI, 2015)
Plastic packaging originates from fossil fuels, which are known to cause environmental Glass takes 1 million and ecosystem damage years to decompose, as well as health damalthough some believe age to living organisms it never (Union of Concerned decomposes Scientists, 2016) (Cairoli, 2018) All materials are not infinite in supply
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
“Often beauty products will be packaged in swathes of cellophane, cardboard, tissue paper and boxes, which look pretty for the five minutes before they are thrown in the bin”- (Morgan, 2019) Figure 14: Plastic is found in every dead turtle
Figure 15: Petroleum laborers
SUMMARY:
Current Cosmetic Packaging In conclusion, plastic packaging is the worst; however the other materials are just as harmful as they affect human health, the environment, and human labor. All materials mentioned do not decompose quickly or do not decompose at all, which is an issue as it affects the environment and eco-systems natural well-being. 31
Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
Figure 16: Guide to Sustainable Cosmetics
Sustainable Cosmetic Approvals & Dissaprovals:
Do’s:
Dont’s:
Ingredients: Natural & Infinite/Renewable
Ingredients: Sample of Fossil Fuel based & Finite
• • • •
Certified Natural Certified Organic Botanical if they are safety controlled and are infinite in supply Certified Vegan (no animal ingredients)
Packaging: Non-toxic & Rapidly Decomposes/ No waste
• Zero-Waste Friendly • Decomposes within 1-2 years • Made from Natural Infinite Materials/ Ingredients • Able to Reuse or Recycle/Upcycle • Encourages Reducing & Recycling • Innovative Redesigns • Contains Certifications/Standards on Labelling to contradict Greenwashing claims
Synthetic Chemicals: BHA & BHT Coal Tar Dyes DEA & DBP Para Hydroxy Benzonate (Parabens) Perfume (Fragrance) Propylene & Polyethylene Glycols Phtalates Triclosan Microbeads •
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Finite Ingredients: Cadmium Lead Nickel Mercury Palm Oil
Uses animal ingredients
Packaging: Most Commonly Used • • •
Cosmetic Business Practices: Well-being
• Follows CSR: Transparent Supply Chain, FairTrade, Welfare of beings involved • Follows Sustainable measurement tools & standards for sustainability • Gives back to sustsainable organizations • Certified to provide transparency & trust • Uses ethical and environmentally friendly alternatives to animal testing, such as in vitro or in silico
Petrochemical oils Petrolatum Siloxane Aluminum Salts Formaldehyde
Plastic Metal Glass
Cosmetic Business Practices: Ease & Economics • •
Contains no certifications, and claims to be natural/organic/or cruelty-free (Greenwashing) Tests on Animals
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
CONCLUSION:
2. What is the Current Understanding of Sustainable Cosmetics? In conclusion, a chart has been drawn up by the author in Figure x to represent the good actions a cosmetic company should follow, while also providing what they should not do that would make them unsustainable. This conclusion comes answering the data from pages 24-30. Overall, Sustainable Cosmetics are ‘Green’ cosmetics, with other aspects that protect the idea of well-being towards all. They are cosmetics that nurture, or restore the environment while ensuring a safe and healthy life for consumers’ security. In terms of ingredients, they should be certified natural and organic to promote non toxic/ modified ingredients. In that regard, natural ingredients should only be sourced if they are infinite in supply and come from ethical and transparent suppliers. Ingredients and final products should also be free from animal testing, and therefore be certified to show proof. In terms of packaging, zero waste is the best solution as no waste is caused. However there are alternatives such as materials which can decompose within 1-2 years, as well as reusable, or recycled/upcycled materials. Cosmetic brands should also continue to label their products with certifications, as it eliminates greenwashing claims. In terms of ensuring well-being, sustainable cosmetic businesses should follow CSR measurements to ensue transparency, should continue to provide certifications, and should give back to sustainable organizations. Synthetic and finite materials are not sustainable and solely marketing ones product with claims without certifications has lead to greenwashing tactics. Lastly, no animals should be harmed in any of the cosmetic process, as it harms their well-being.
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Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
3. Are Brands Truthfuly Labeling?
GREENWASHING There is an issue with cosmetic brands not receiving any punishment when labeling their products with a certain attribute related to sustainability or ethics, when in reality the products do not purely consist of those features (Wischover, 2018)
CUSTOMER CLUENESS Customers rely on companies and the government to ensure them safe and effective products; therefore, they believe and trust that the products marketed as “natural” or ‘organic’ contain a majority of those ingredients. This leads to consumer confusion, when they see different third party certifications claiming to vouch for one attribute, or no certifications at all but do the same, as consumers are not educated on this system and the scale of greenwashing. Due to corruption and a lack of incentive, companies will not change their greenwashing ways if customers do not demand higher transparency (Feng, 2016).
WEAK REGULATIONS There is misleading regulations behind “natural” and “organic” cosmetics. Feng states that there is greenwashing and false marketing due to governments like the U.S’ which hold no laws regulating which can be marketed as either of those words. Although, for instance there are three major standards, the USDA (United States Department of Agriculture), NSF (NaBUSINESS tional Sanitation Foundation), and the NPA (Natural Product STRATEGIES Association) that hold eligibilities for which can be certified and labeled “organic” or “natural” under their As the demand for “natural” and “organic” names. There is also ambiguity, for consumers, cosmetics grows, large brands have labelled due to cosmetic products not being labeled by their products falsely as there are varying regulapercentage, as food products are. This makes tions which lean towards the lenient side (), as previknowing how much of a product is “natuously mentioned. Dayan and Kromidas state that this ral” or “organic” hard to distinguish gap in the system allows for big cosmetic players to (Feng, 2016). purchase small pioneering cosmetic brands, who have created an image revolved around those aspects to further create a “greenwashing” business plan. Most of the brands labelled as “natural” or “organic” may only have one ingredient which is one of those words (Dayan and Kromidas, 2011)
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By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
METRICS Sustainability metrics are becoming more and more important to business. It is not only the first step to achieve cost savings and to significantly reduce environmental impacts, but to also provide proof of transparency. It eliminates claims of greenwashing (Sahota, 2014).
STANDARDS Cosmetics Europe states the best starting point for businesses to follow is the International Organization for Standardization: ISO 14000/14001 (Rouse, 2005), which provides the tools to evaluate a particular stage of a products’ life cycle. Under those systems there are many other certifications and tools cosmetic companies can use, and display on their products, which are mentioned in the Annex: Figure x. Overall, “Cosmetics Europe therefore supports an approach based on life cycle thinking and involving the three pillars of sustainability” (Good Sustainability practice (GSP) For the cosmetics industry, 2012)
MEASUREMENT TOOLS In terms of regulations for the sustainable cosmetic industry, there are many tools, which are optional and vary depending on ones region. According to Cosmetics Europe, there are the following environmental assessments cosmetic businesses can follow. The ERA (Environmental Risk Assessment), provides an assessment on the safety of product ingredients for humans and the environment, while the EMS (Environmental Management System) ensures optimization of resource use and manufacturing outputs in terms of wastes and emissions, whilst protecting employees safety. There is also LCA, Life Cycle Assessment, which evaluates a products whole life cycle resource and environmental impact (Good Sustainability practice (GSP) For the cosmetics industry, 2012).
CONCLUSION:
3. Are Brands Truthfuly Labeling? Brands are not being truthful in their labeling. As there are weak regulationshe, the majority of brand are taking advantage of marketing leniency and consumers uneducated knowledge when labelling their products as ‘natural’, ‘organic’ or ‘sustainable. Consumers get confused when seeing certifications, as well, as they do not know what they mean, unless stated. Therefore, metrics and standards are the solution to identifying if a brand is truly sustainable or ‘Green’. In addition, measurement tools aid a company in following sustainable practices and can provide legitimacy when being claimed as a greenwasher.
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Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
4. Is Sustainable Cosmeteics Relevant in Terms of Well-being?
HARMFUL INGREDIENTS
COSMETOVIGILANCE Overall, cosmetic companies continue to use harmful ingredients, that were implemented more than one-hundred years ago, as regulations vary globally and for the most part have been lenient. Khan and Alam (2019) believe that in order to encourage improvements, there must be a ‘unified cosmeto-vigilance’ worldwide. Otherwise, cosmetic products will continue to affect public health (Khan and Alam, 2019).
Sahota (2014) also argues how the linkage between the cosmetic industry and the chemical industry is not only damaging human’s health but the environment. Harmful chemicals are entering waterways, after usage, and are intoxicating aquatic bacteria, aquatic wildlife, and human water. Microplastics, found in soaps, scrubs, and shower gels for exfoliating and texturizing purposes, are also accumulating in seas and oceans which is disrupting marine ecosystems. As microplastics biodegrade slowly, they are ingested easily by marine life and therefore create damage. Ingredients such as phthalates, parabens, aluminum salts, petrochemical oils, triclosan, formaldehyde, mercury and other heavy metals are not only being associated with health risks but also toxic environmental effects (Sahota, 2014)
NATURAL INGREDIENT SOURCING Sahota also states how natural ingredients can also be a concern. While chemical ingredients intoxicate the environment, natural ingredients such as palm oil is known to be responsible for the destruction of tropical rainforests, threatening the habitat of endangered species such as orangutans (Sahota, 2014). Dayan and Kromidas state that cosmetic formulators should only support products that have renewable ingredients of sustainable harNATURAL vesting. This prevents plant species from becoming endangered due to unreguINGREDIENT’S NON lated over-harvesting (Dayan and TRANSPARENT & UNETHICALKromidas, 2011).
SUPPLY CHAIN
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An issue discussed recently on Youtube by Refinery21 is the “The Dark Secret Behind Your Favorite Makeup Products”, (Youtube, 2019) where they discuss the unethical sourcing of Mica, a natural mineral used to create shimmer in cosmetics. The majority of the worlds’ Mica comes from India, where children are the primary laborers. These laborers are not only underaged, but are payed “less than a quarter a day”, and are subjected to perilous circumstances as they mine deep underground for the mineral. According to the reporter, the mineral is then funneled into a process that conceals that children were ever involved. The Mica gets sold to intermediaries who often sell it under a legal mine; this strips away information on its elicit origins. This hidden supply chain causes injuries, respiratory illnesses, and possible death to many child laborers each day. Government regulation is weak and acts obliviously to the issue. Therefore, the only sustainable solution is for cosmetic businesses to use synthetic Mica alternatives or to source from honest and transparent suppliers whose well-being is treated fairly. Also, minerals are not finite, therefore synthetic solutions are the most sustainable alternative (Youtube, 2019). This mineral example is reflected in many other ingredient sources used in cosmetics.
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
ANIMAL WELFARE: COSMETIC INGREDIENT TESTING The cosmetic industry is scrutinized by the media and NGO’s due to its use of animal-testing. Cosmetic companies have tested ingredients, as well as finished products, on animals, usually rabbits and mice, to check safety levels. Political momentum against animal testing gained publicity in May 1980 when activists, dressed as lab animals, began to protest outside of cosmetic companies. This led to developments made by involved companies and organizations to redesign and invest into researching alternatives to animal testing. It also led to Parliaments, such as that of the EU, to ban the sale of cosmetic products tested on animals and those that test ingredients on animals as well (Sahota, 2014).
THE UNHEALTHY USAGE OF FOSSIL FUELS
IED 2019
COSMETIC PACKAGING WASTE Packaging waste is another concern caused by the cosmetic industry. Dang (2018) states that rigid packaging such as glass, metal, and plastic are the most common types of materials used for cosmetic packaging. Plastic, however, is the most popular as it can be either rigid or flexible, and weighs less, which is more efficient for transportation, unlike metal and glass (Dang, 2018)
EXCESS WASTE FOR ATTRACTIVE SELLING PURPOSES
Most luxury skin care products and perfumes are typically packaged excessively for attractive and safety purposes. Plastics are consequently creating The reasonings behind modern day sustainability long-lasting environmental polluinitiatives, and also the negative belief that sustainability tion (Sahota, 2014). can never function, is due in part to fossil fuels. Obtaining fossil fuels is very disruptive and destructive to all aspects the sustainability movement protects. Coal, oil, and natural gas are the three forms of fossil fuel used for supply, and all three require either mining, drilling/fracking, or burning and all need to be transported which overall causes pollution, health issues, and eco-system destruction.It is not natural to dig up buried and million year old dead organisms, also known as fossil fuels, especially when they are covered by flourishing eco-systems as it disrupts the well-being of the organisms residing in that area and the overall environment. It is also very dangerous for humans; thousands have died due to mining, offshore drillings, lung infections, and cancer. Also, the burning of the fuels, the contamination, and destruction all cause global warming (Union of Concerned Scientists, 2016).
CONCLUSION:
4. Is Sustainable Cosmeteics Relevant in Terms of Well-being? Overall, a unified cosmetic vigilance is recommended as the cosmetic industry is causing harm, in many different aspects, towards the entire world. The well-being of the environment, eco-system, and humans must be protected as all of the factors mentioned above affect their future. Sustainable cosmetics seems to be the only solution for this industry, as the unregulation of its global scope is damaging the Earth. Therefore, policy makers need to unite on what should be banned, restricted, and redesigned.
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Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
The Hawaiian government, the first state in the US, has banned the use of Oxybenzone and Octinoxate, which 1. Government Actions Supporting Sustainable are chemicals used in sunscreen, howevIngredients on Packaging er are found to cause damage to coral reefs and marine life. This means brands such as Palau is now Banana Boat and Coppertone will not be able The the first nation to ban to sell in the state, unless they change their UK governsunscreens made with formulas and incorporate a safe ingredient. ment’s ban on all ‘rinse “reef-toxic” chemicals like This legislation protects the environment off’ personal care and oxybenzone, octinoxate, more than the social theory that peocosmetic products containing and triclosan. If tourists try ple will stop wearing sunscreen microbeads, and Scotland’s comto bring the sunscreen in due to the ban (Bever, mitment to a deposit return scheme their luggage, it will be 2018) on plastic bottles, are initiatives that confiscated at customs many European countries wish to The (Peters, 2018) emulate, with Sweden set to do so Clean Seas Many for microbeads by 2020 (EUglobal campaign on countries ROPE EUROPE CONSUMmarine litter by United have banned ER TRENDS 2018, The Nations Environment (UN ingredients, such as 2018) hazard-based, Environment) also aims at worldPhtalates and precautionary apwide elimination of microplastics Microbeads (Beat proach of the EU acknowlin cosmetics and the excessive, The the Microbead, edges that chemicals linked wasteful usage of single-use EU law bans n.d.) to cancer and birth defects plastic by the year 2022 1,328 chemicals simply don’t belong in cos(Lohr et al., 2017) from cosmetics that are metics – regardless of the known or suspected to concentration of the chemical Europe cause cancer, genetic mubeing used. (Safe CosThe has completely tation, reproductive harm EU-funded banned animal metics, 2019) or birth defects. (Safe SULACHANGE projtesting for ingredients Cosmetics, 2019) ect seeks to address this and the final prodIn challenge by further developing uct (Understanding 2015, China and commercialising a microAnimal Research, started to investigate plastic-free and biodegradable 2018). methods to replace cos KEY: material known as Sulapac, metics animal testing with the Ingredients: which provides the benefits of Packaging: assistance of British scientists plastic without the waste probAnimals: — part of a growing cooperation lem (European Comission, Environment: between the two countries, which 2018) Cosmetic was formally agreed between Regulations: David Cameron and China’s president, Xi Jinping (McKie, 2015) Italy is the first In 2016, a International EU country to now Democratic senator treaties, such as the forbidden to produce or sell from California, Dianne Rio Convention on Biological non-biodegradable or comFeinstein, introduced the Diversity and CITES (Washingpostable cotton buds. Packaging Personal Care Products Safeton Convention) and regulations will also have to indicate the rules for ty Act, a bill to reinforce regsuch as Good Agricultural Practicproper disposal.Cotton buds aculations on ingredients in es (GAP) have been established count for about 9% of waste found personal care products to guide sustainable sourcing on Italian beaches — an average (Grand View Research, and production of plant of about 60 sticks per beach 2018). material. (The Federal (Gee, 2019). Council, n.d.) EU In law requires 2015, the EU The pre-market safety adopted an ambitious “European assessments of cosmetCircular Economy Action Strategy for Plastics ics, mandatory registration Plan, which measures the whole in a Circular Economy” of cosmetic products, govcycle: from production and con(Plastics Strategy) calls for sumption to waste management and ernment authorization for the all plastic packaging on the use of nanomaterials and secondary raw materials. There are EU market to be either reprohibits animal testing for targets for recycling and re-use 38 usable or recyclable in a cosmetic purpose (Safe of packaging and waste cost-effective manner Cosmetics, 2019). (European Comission, by 2030 (Misko, 2019). 2019).
III. EXAMINE THE ACTIONS AND LIMITATIONS OF SUSTAINABLE COSMETICS
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Figure 17: Coral Reef before and after damage
Figure 18: Microbeads from cosmetics
CONCLUSION:
1. Government Actions Supporting Sustainable Ingredients on Packaging From seeing all the examples, it can be said that government actions, related to sustainable cosmetics, are related to ingredients, packaging, animals, the environment, and overall cosmetic regulation.From the chart, one can see that most government actions are regarding ingredients as they not only concern the environment but also humans, which for regulators is a primary concern, as humans are who they primarily protect. 39
Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
2. What are the Government Limitations Regarding Sustainable Ingredients and Packaging
In China, for certain cosmetics products, animal testing is not only legal — it is mandatory. “Some countries still require animal testing of cosmetic products under their own laws. Indeed, the Chinese government currently carries out such testing for imported products, irrespective of the wishes of companies,” says Flower. What that means is for beauty companies who sell in China is, even if their products are cruelty-free up until that point, they become complicit in supporting animal testing. Therefore, any company who wants to sell in China must have their products tested on animals (Csorba and Boglea, 2011).
In comparison to the EU, the U.S. FDA has only banned or restricted 11 chemicals from cosmetics (Safe Cosmetics, 2019).
Some countries’ bans on ingredients are not strict enough, as many retailers ignore the ban and continue to sell products with harmful ingreidents (SINGLE-USE PLASTICS A Roadmap for Sustainability, 2018).
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KEY: Ingredients: Packaging: Animals:
In the U.S., there are no laws protecting animals from physical and psychological pain and suffering once the testing has been approved by in-house committees. Experiments can cause paralysis, swelling and ulceration of the skin and eyes, convulsions, bleeding from the nose or mouth, severe pain, self-mutilation, and ultimately death. (PETA, n.d.).
Despite the attraction of alternative methods, many countries continue to accept animal testing. Overall, the author states that the difference of regulations among countries has led to complications and difficulties in the selling of cosmetic products (Csorba and Boglea, 2011).
Regulation is sometimes not very strict, in terms of packaging materials, therefore cheaper alternatives, such as plastic that is banned in some regions, still gets consumed and purchased due to those factors (Calderwood, 2018).
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Figure 19: USA ban vs. the EU
SUMMARY AND CONCLUSION:
2. What are the Government Limitations Regarding Sustainable Ingredients and Packaging From the examples, animal well-being is the most limited aspect in terms of sustainable cosmetic government regulations. Ingredients are second, as the USA is limiting its potential on banning 1,328 ingredients as the EU has. Lastly, packaging is another limitation that governments do not take strictly enough and organizations continue to use and sell non sustainable packaging materials. In conclusion, corruption and a lack of incentive towards the issue of well-being are the root causes of these limitations from governments. As other countries have prohibited what these countries have not, then there is most likely money involved. However, their efforts and stances on these certain issues can and should change with the concern of the well-being of the planet.
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3. Are there Issues or Limitations Regarding Non-Effective Solutions?
The federal government requires sunscreen claims to be “truthful and not misleading,” but the term “reef safe” doesn’t have an agreed-upon definition, and therefore isn’t strictly regulated by government. This means sunscreen manufacturers aren’t required to test and demonstrate that such products won’t harm aquatic life (Calderone, 2019). “Even if you have something relatively safe,” says Downs, “having 5,000 people getting into the water at a single beach, the oils from most sunscreen products can induce toxicity.” (Calderone, 2019)
Cells or tissues from in vitro culture cannot predict the effect of a toxin on a living organism with its complex interaction of nervous, endocrine, immune, and hematopoietic systems. In vitro systems can predict the cellular and molecular effects of a drug or toxin, however only a human or animal can exhibit the complex physiological response of the whole organism, including signs and symptoms of injury (Zurlo, Rudacille and Goldberg, 2019).
Impacts on the Environment/Eco-system:
Alternative Packaging:
While alternatives to plastic are available, as yet none seem to offer a full solution. Biodegradable bioplastics such as polylactide degrade too slowly and non-biodegradable bioplastics such as bio-PE leave behind microplastics that can’t be digested by naturally occurring organisms (European Comission, 2018).
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Animal Testing Alternatives:
Issues or Limitations Regarding Non-Effective Solutions, Also Greenwashing
Natural Ingredients:
Natural ingredients can not always be renewable and sustainable. Palm oil for instance has lead to the loss of biodiverse forests, extinct animals, ethical human labor issues, and CO2 emissions; therefore natural alternatives are not always better if their sourcing is unnatural and causes harm (Sahota, 2014).
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Figure 20: Hawaii protests against the use of toxic sunscreen chemicals
Figure 21: In vitro tests for cosmetics
SUMMARY AND CONCLUSION:
3. Are there Issues or Limitations Regarding Non-Effective Solutions? In the chart on page 42, the limitations of certain sustainable alternatives are discussed in relation to the impact on the environment, animal testing, packaging, and natural ingredients. For instance, “sustainable” sunscreen which is “reef-safe”, may help the reef, however due to chemicals still needing to be used for humans protection to UV rays, synthetic chemicals are still needed. However, these chemicals are unnatural to the environment and therefore impact them in a harmful way. Animal testing alternatives such as ‘in vitro’, have limitations in fully comprehending the harmful impacts an animal would have which is similar to a human. In terms of packaging, not all biodegradable materials are sustainable as they still biodegrade “too slowly”, and still can leave microplastics. Lastily, natural alternatives, such as Palm Oil, are not always the best solution as their sourcing can be detrimental and non recoverable. In conclusion, there are limitations to sustainable efforts for cosmetics, however technological developments towards sustainable alternatives should be the solution.
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4. Is there Corruption and Corrupt Lobbying Affecting the Growth of Sustainable Cosmetics?
Using the scare tactic that nothing can replace these chemicals which protect humans from sun screen, and that human’s health is more important than any other factor: “Overwhelming scientific evidence shows that excess sun exposure without effective sunscreen increases the risk of developing skin cancer in both adults and children,” the association said in a statement in May. “Banning oxybenzone and octinoxate — key ingredients in effective sunscreens on the market — will drastically and unnecessarily reduce the selection of safe and effective sunscreen products available to residents and visitors. Oxybenzone and octinoxate, found in the majority of sunscreens, are safe and effective over-the-counter (OTC) active ingredients recognized by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) as important aides in decreasing the risk of developing skin cancer, the most common cancer in the U.S.” (Bever, 2018).
Ban of Oxybenzone, Octinoxate, and Triclosan in sunscreen: The Star-Advertiser [Media] reported that the law was opposed by ABC Stores, the Hawaii Medical Association, the Hawaii Food Industry Association, Chamber of Commerce Hawaii, the Personal Care Products Council and Bayer, which manufactures sunscreens by Coppertone (Bever, 2018).
A Sample of Corruption and Corrupt Lobbying Actions:
A manufacturer, Jeremy Freedman, wrote to his MP to say that banning wet wipes would be “environmentally disastrous”. He told the BBC: “These wipes are biodegradeable, take 3ml of liquid on average. If they weren’t able to use these, they would need to wash their hands, using on average one litre of water. “They are also widely used in the medical industry and, for people with incontinence and disabled people, these wipes are critical to their lifestyle.” However, although he states that many of the wipes he produces are made of 100% biodegradable materials, they warn that they are under no circumstances flushable (BBC News, 2018).
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Example of the Cosmetic Council being corrupt for decades: As court records show and several news outlets have reported, the Personal Care Products Council (then called the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association) waged a decades-long war with regulators and consumer safety advocates over asbestos-laced talcum powder. As far back as the 1960s, the organization insisted that such powder was safe, even as its own members’ scientists warned that it might not be (The New York Times, 2019).
Example of Corrupt Lobbying from the Talc industry: The group resisted calls to add warning labels to talc-based products and pressured government agencies to refrain from listing the ingredient as a carcinogen. It also attacked safety advocates, calling them “chemical terrorists,” while giving pricey vacations to lawmakers who had the power to act on those advocates’ concerns (The New York Times, 2019).
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Figure 22: Wet wipes cause harm to sewers as they do not decompose
Figure 23: Toxic talc on humans
CONCLUSION:
4. Is there Corruption and Corrupt Lobbying Affecting the Growth of Sustainable Cosmetics? Through the examples on page 44, one can see the corrupt actions organizations have committed to protect certain industries from loosing business. Knowingly harmful synthetic, natural chemicals, and non-decomposable wet wipes are examples of cosmetic ingredients that should be outlawed, however have been aided in their survival. As the USA has only banned 11 chemicals, while the EU has banned 1,328, it should be concluded that the American system is the most corrupt and is most willing to protect corporations more than humans; this reasons why Elkington’s added “well-being” to his definition of sustainability, as companies have been prioritizing economy over its complementary aspects. 45
Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
IV. AKNOWLEDGE THE GLOBAL COSMETIC INDUSTRY 1. What is the Global Market Size of Cosmetics
Market size of cosmetic ingredients worldwide in 2015 and 2020 (in billion U.S. dollars) Figure 24
Consumption value of cosmetics and personal care in Europe in 2017, by country* (in million euros) Figure 25
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By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Below are the 15 countries that exported (produced) the highest dollar value worth of beauty cosmetics and skincare products during 2018.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15.
France: US$9.6 billion (16.6% of total beauty/skincare goods exports) United States: $5.8 billion (10%) Singapore: $5.2 billion (9%) South Korea: $4.9 billion (8.5%) Japan: $3.9 billion (6.7%) Germany: $3.8 billion (6.6%) Hong Kong: $2.5 billion (4.4%) China: $2.5 billion (4.3%) Italy: $2.3 billion (3.9%) United Kingdom: $2.2 billion (3.8%) Poland: $1.7 billion (2.9%) Belgium: $1.4 billion (2.4%) Switzerland: $1.3 billion (2.3%) Canada: $1.3 billion (2.3%) Netherlands: $1.2 billion (2.1%) (Workman, 2019)
CONCLUSION:
1. What is the Global Market Size of Cosmetics In conclusion, the cosmetic market is foreseen to continually grow, while Germany, France and the UK are its strongest consumers in Europe. In terms of producers, France, the US and Singapore are the top three who expoted the most cosmetics during 2018. 2. What are the Top Beauty Products? Leading health and beauty care product categories in the United States in 2018, based on sales (in million U.S. dollars) Figure 26
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Top Beauty/Skincare Products Subcategories Different types of beauty cosmetics and skincare exports are listed in descending order below, starting with the most lucrative subcategory:
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Beauty/makeup preparations and skincare: US$43.8 billion (up 55.7% from 2014) Eye makeup: $5.1 billion (up 35%) Lip makeup including lipstick: $4.8 billion (up 82.7%) Makeup or skincare powders: $2.6 billion (up 41.6%) Manicure or pedicure preparations: $1.5 billion (down -22.6%) (Workman, 2019)
CONCLUSION:
2. What are the Top Beauty Products? In conclusion, skincare is the leading beauty category of the industry. In the US, soap is superior in demand to skincare, with personal care products following. Overall, these top beauty products are continually increasing in demand as well.
3. What are the Top Factors Impacting the Global Cosmetic Industry
Figure 27 x
CONCLUSION:
3. What are the Top Factors Impacting the Global Cosmetic Industry The top factors impacting the global cosmetic industry leans the most towards the use of natural ingredients, with changing packaging styles, and attractive marketing strategies and advanced beauty treatements following. This supports the importance in supply of sustainable cosmetics. 48
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Figure 28: x Cosmetic products
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IV. AKNOWLEDGE THE SUSTAINABLE COSMETIC INDUSTRY
1. What is the Market Size?
Forecasted market size of the natural and organic beauty industry in 2016 and 2024 (in billion U.S. dollars Figure 29
Sustainable Cosmetics: “Brands many not initially see an immediate return on investment, consumers may not be flocking to it,” said Andrew McDougall, an analyst at Mintel. “But if they’re making those moves now, they’ll be seen as a pioneer in this area” (O’Conner, 2018).
Whether reducing or eliminating waste altogether, if brands don’t change their approach now, they will become insignificant and may not exist in the future (Mintel, 2018).
According to a TechSci Research report, “Global Organic Cosmetics Market By Product Type, By Point of Sale, By Region, Competition Forecast and Opportunities, 2011 - 2021”, Global organic cosmetics market is projected to register a CAGR of over 13% during 2016-2021 (Techsci research, n.d).
According to data from Nielsen, sales of personal care brands making natural claims grew 9% last year. A similar trend was seen in Growing denatural beauty care, which mand for organic cosmetalso grew 9% in 2017 ics with multiple benefits claims Grand View (Herich, 2018) such as anti-ageing, moisturizing and Research announced SPF protection is poised to boost growth that the global organic in global organic cosmetics market. Morebeauty market was likely to over, companies are constantly advertising orreach $15.98bn by 2020, as ganic cosmetics on social networking sites such as demand for organic skincare, Facebook, Twitter, YouTube and other websites such haircare and colour cosmetics as Instagram, through beauty bloggers to increase drives consumers to look for New Market brand awareness. All these factors are anticipated natural and organic labels Analysis released by to boost adoption of organic cosmetics in de(Dallmeier, n.d.). Persistence Market Reveloped and developing countries across the search has shown that with the globe.” said Mr. Karan Chechi, Research Diyear-on-year growth in organic rector with TechSci Research, a research beauty, the global market should based global management consulting be worth just under $22bn by firm (Techsci research, n.d) 2024. Those figures suggest ap50 proximate growth of 8-10% per year (Dallmeier, n.d.).
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Figure 30
Figure 31
CONCLUSION:
1. What is the Market Size? In conclusion, the sustainable market is steadily growing. Natural and organic beauty, vegan cosmetics,and green packaging is only expected to grow based on forecasts of 2024/2025. The reasoning behind the predictability that sustainable cosmetics will continue to thrive is based on the increase in demand. What is highlighted the most upon in data is the organic beauty market, as that is a universal concerning aspect which has been tackled by all industries. However, organic is only one element of a sustainable product.In terms of packaging, degradable is the least successful of the green alternatives, despite it being the most effective. However, degradable is growing based on forecasts as well.
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2. Are there Impacts on the Environment, Animals, or Alternatives? Impacts of Plastic Packaging Toward the Environment
“Just because something is
Plastics and recyclable doesn’t mean it will plastic packaging are be recycled.”- (Morgan, 2019) an integral and important part of the global economy. Plastics production has surged over the past 50 years, from 15 million tonnes in 1964 to 311 million tonnes in 2014, and is expected to double again over the next 20 years, as plastics come to serve increasingly Between 4.8 and many applications (The New The [cosmetic] 12.7 million tons of landPlastics Economy Rethinking sector generated 142.6 based plastic waste ends up the future of plastics, billion units of packaging in in the ocean every year. Plastics 2016). 2017, according to Euromonitor not only negatively affect aquatic International, with over 40 perecosystems, but also societies and cent made from the rigid plastics, their economies. Economic activities which are considered particularsuch as shipping, fishing, aquaculture, ly harmful for the environment tourism and recreation are directly because often they are “single affected by plastic pollution and the use,” used just once before total negative impact on oceans they are thrown away has been estimated at least (O’Conner, 2018). $8 bn per year (Lohr et al., 2017).
The Ellen Macarthur Foundation estimates there’ll be more plastic than fish in the ocean by 2050 (Ellen Macarthur Foundation, n.d.). In fact, UNESCO reports that plastic debris causes the death of more than 100,000 marine mammals and more than a million seabirds per year. (Factsheet: Marine pollution, 2017).Not to mention the microplastics that are ingested by fish that travel up the food chain to us.
“70 per cent of the waste from the beauty industry is from packaging,” says Arnaud Meysselle, CEO of Ren Clean Skincare (Baird-Murray, 2018).
267 species of seabird and 61% of turtles with plastic in their digestive tracts aren’t alone, with a third of the fish and shellfish humans consume containing plastic too, according to Plymouth University (Mintel, 2018).
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This would also mean that our oceans will carry more plastic than fish and an estimated 99 per cent of seabirds will have ingested plastic (Wearden, 2016).
The UN has predicted that if the rate of waste production continues, by 2050 there will be 12 billion tonnes of plastic in landfills, which is the equivalent to 35,000 Empire State Buildings. The UN has declared our current situation a ‘planetary crisis’ and no industry is exempt from scrutiny, including beauty (Flor + Cesta, 2018).
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Figure 32
Figure 33
Figure 34
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Alternative Solutions to Plastic Packaging
“Zero waste circular economy can be a game-changer to keep the planet under 1.5 ° C of global warming” - (Marcon, 2018) Rachelle Strauss, founder of Zero Waste Week, states : “Like other industries, the cosmetics sector needs to meet consumer demand for more sustainable packaging. While it can be argued that customers who purchase high end products expect beautiful packaging, there is no reason why beauty and sustainability cannot go hand in hand. “Refills are available for washing up liquid and fabric conditioner, why not shampoo and conditioner? Some coffee shops offer 25p off if you take your own reusable cup, let’s do the same for cosmetics.” (Morgan, 2019)
“‘Sub-Zero Waste’ is not just a trend; it’s a movement towards a ground-shaking new archetype for the beauty and personal care industry. Some companies are already discussing completely removing packaging from the equation. Whether reducing or eliminating waste altogether, if brands don’t change their approach now, they will become insignificant and may not exist in the future. (Mintel, 2018)
The global green packaging market size was estimated at USD 152.2 billion in 2016 and is expected to register a CAGR of 5.7% from 2016 to 2024. (Grand View Research, 2018)
Bioplastic is a bio-polyethylene derived primarily from sugar cane. Sugar cane is quickly renewable and thus a sustainable source – but not if you cut down rainforests to grow it, like palm oil (Sahota, 2014).
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Mintel, the world’s leading market intelligence agency, has announced ‘Sub-Zero Waste’ as the trend set to impact global beauty and personal care markets in the coming years (Mintel, 2018).
A bigger-picture focus is needed throughout the beauty and personal care industry supply chain for a true zero-waste mentality.” (Mintel, 2018).
Edible packaging materials made from natural ingredients is anticipated to gain popularity in the coming years (Grand View Research, 2018).
“In the very near future, we will be able to utilise agricultural waste (in other words, cow poo) to make new forms of plastic that today are not commonly recycled (Morgan, 2019).
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Figure 35. “Zero Waste People”
CONCLUSION OF PACKAGING HARM WITH A FOCUS ON PLASTIC 2. Are there Impacts on the Environment, Animals, or Alternatives?: Plastic packaging is an enormous issue emitted from almost every industry. However it is a grave and harmful effect of the cosmetic industries’ as the sector generated 142.6 billion units of packaging in 2017, with 40 percent made from the rigid plastics. More than 70% of waste, from the beauty industry, is from packaging, therefore making the exterior of the industries’ products the leading issue affecting sustainability. The sourcing, of fossil fuels, and the development of creating plastic has developed a powerful global economy that seemed necessary to retain due to its economical benefits. However, the material is harming the well-being of Earth’s environment with waste, Earth’s eco-systems with toxic and non biodegradable emissions, as well as Earth’s humans who consequently consusme the material or are surrounded by its toxicity in their land. To combat the issue of plastic, some of the cosmetic industries’ most notorious brands have begun to integrate alternative or aiding methods to appear ‘sustainable’. However, their efforts do not necessarily mean that they are using the best alternatives. Most companies continue to use plastic in their packaging, however market themselves to be ‘sustainable’ as they are using recycled plastic. This is a good initiative as there is an outstanding amount of plastic existing on this Earth, however recycled plastic may be recycled again by consumers. Therefore, initiatives such as TerraCycle’s collection and recycling service enforces the need to recycle the products habitually. Lush is the only large brand mentioned that is using no packaging at all. This is the greatest solution as it cooperates with the Zero Waste concept. Herbivore Botanicals, Tata Harper, and Neal’s Yard Remedies are other brands who have encouraged reusable products into their business. There is a recommended method of sustainable packaging, and that is to follow the Zero Waste theory and now trend. The solutions that support this ideology are refillable cosmetics, renewable bioplastics, edible packaging, compostable packaging, or simply no packaging at all. All of these solutions either create no packaging waste or biodegrade into Earth’s environment without causing harmful effects. 55
Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
Impacts of Animals and Alternative Solutions Former U.S. National Institutes of Health director Dr. Elias Zerhouni admitted that experimenting on animals to help humans has been a major failure. “The problem is that [animal testing] hasn’t worked, and it’s time we stopped dancing around the problem. … We need to refocus and adapt new methodologies for use in humans to understand disease biology in humans.” (PETA, n.d.).
These non-animal methods are not hindered by species differences that make applying animal test results to humans difficult or impossible, and they usually take less time and money to complete (PETA, n.d.).
According to Chris Flower, director general of the UK Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfume Association (CTPA), more than 20 animal testing alternative test methods have been developed and validated by the Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) to date (Chitrakorn, 2016).
Cell cultures: Scientists have even managed to coax cells to grow into 3D structures, such as miniature human organs, which can provide a more realistic way to test new therapies (Cruelty Free International, n.d.).
(Cruelty Free International, n.d.).
Human tissues: Human tissue can be donated from surgery (e.g. biopsies, cosmetic surgery and transplants). For example, skin and eye models made from reconstituted human skin and other tissues have been developed and are used to replace the cruel rabbit irritation tests (Cruelty
Volunteer Studies: An innovative technique called microdosing can also be used in volunteers to measure how very small doses of potential new drugs behave in the human body. These microdoses are radio-labelled, injected into human volunteers and measured (usually in blood samples) using a very sensitive measuring device called an accelerator mass spectrometer.
Harvard’s Wyss Institute has created “organs-on-chips” that contain human cells grown in a state-ofthe-art system to mimic the structure and function of human organs and organ systems. The chips can be used instead of animals in disease research, drug testing, and toxicity testing and have been shown to replicate human physiology, diseases, and drug responses more accurately than crude animal experiments do (PETA, n.d.). 56
Computer Models: Computer models of the heart, lungs, kidneys, skin, digestive and musculoskeletal systems already exist. They can be used to conduct virtual experiments based on existing information and mathematical data
(Cruelty Free International, n.d.)
Free International, n.d.).
The L’Oreal Group, has been researching methods for creating artificial skin for testing products for several years. In 2015, the company partnered with bio-engineering manufacturer Organovo to 3D print human skin, so that its products could be tested without the use of human volunteers or animals. Some analysts predict the 3D-printed skin industry could reach $1 billion in sales by 2020 (Griffiths, 2015).
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Animal Testing is Unnecessary
Alois Alzheimer first described the main features of Alzheimer’s disease in 1906 by studying brain segments from patients after they had died (Cruelty Free International, n.d.).
Crude skin allergy tests in guinea pigs only predict human reactions 72% of the time. But a combination of chemistry and cell-based alternative methods has been shown to accurately predict human reactions 90 per cent of the time
The standard test on pregnant rats to find out if chemicals or drugs may harm the developing baby can only detect 60% of dangerous substances. But a cell-based alternative (EST) has 100 per cent accuracy at detecting very toxic chemicals
(Cruelty Free International, n.d.).
(Cruelty Free International, n.d.).
Human population studies led to the discovery that smoking causes cancer. Smoking does not cause cancer in mice and rats (Cruelty Free International, n.d.).
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Countries Stance on Animal Testing Figure 36: Sample of countries’ stance on animal testing
According to a 2016 report by People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), over 250 cosmetics brands — including Avon, Neutrogena, Guerlain, L’Occitane, MAC Cosmetics, Vidal Sassoon and Mary Kay — still use animal testing, affecting what the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA) estimates to be over 27,000 animals each year (Chitrakorn, 2016).
Hong Kong is benefiting from it’s neighbor, China’s, continued animal testing, as on average 20 new natural and organic cosmetic brands are being launched there every year- making Hong Kong one of the most concentrated regions for this category (Pitman, 2014).
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But avoiding animal testing altogether comes with challenges. “There are quite significant implications on our supply chain when we purchase ingredients, because we have to receive signed declarations from our suppliers confirming that the materials we use have not been subject to animal testing,” says Christopher Davis, international director of corporate responsibility at The Body Shop, which has long avoided animal testing. “This adds a further complexity to our processes, but we have been running the company based on this philosophy for decades. It is part of our DNA.” (Chitrakorn, 2016).
The Chinese government currently carries out such testing for imported products, irrespective of the wishes of companies,” says Flower (Chitrakorn, 2016). What that means is for beauty companies who sell in China is, even if their products are cruelty-free up until that point, they become complicit in supporting animal testing.
Cosmetics companies, including Estée Lauder and Clarins, have policies on their websites stating they do not test on animals anywhere in the world — except when required by law. Yet, these companies market their products in China where animals will die for any eye shadow or a lipstick,” says Mimi Bekhechi, UK director of Peta. L’Occitane, Yves Rocher and Caudalie are among the big brands that have previously had their Leaping Bunny certifications retracted for this reason.(Chitrakorn, 2016).
Alternatively, companies can ensure their cosmetics products are harmless to humans by simply using established ingredients. “We have always avoided using newly invented chemicals and ingredients,” says Hilary Jones, ethics director at cosmetics company Lush. “For us, it’s important that all of our business practices are inherently cruelty-free.” (Chitrakorn, 2016).
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Figure 37: Countries who have banned animal testing
Figure 38: Sample of brands who do not test on animals
In California, New York, Canada, and the European Union legislators and activists have all backed bans on the sale of beauty and personal care products that have been tested on animals.(Smith, 2018).
CONCLUSION OF ANIMAL IMPACTS:
2. Are there Impacts on the Environment, Animals, or Alternatives? From the examples given, it is shown that experimenting on animals is unsustainable due to it being ineffective, costly, and unethical towards the animals ‘well-being’. There are various alternatives that cause no harm to living sentient beings. In addition, brands such as L’Oreal are investing in advanced alternatives. However, many countries continue to allow the industry to test on animals. In 2016, over 250 cosmetic brands continued to participate in this method, which consequently affects 27,000 animals a year. Some brands may claim that they do not test on animals, however it should be known that if they sell their brands in China then it is mandatory for their products to undergo animal ‘safety’ tests. As China continues to support this method, neighboring country Hong Kong is thriving, as they are succesfully releasing organic and natural cosmetics, which are not tested on animals. Lastly, companies can avoid testing all together by using the vast amount of already established and safe cosmetic ingredients.
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3. What Examples are there of Transparent and Ethical Sustainable Cosmetic Brands? Sample of Sustainable Cosmetic Brands’ Transparent Efforts
If all cosmetic companies were to open themselves up to the scrutiny of the UEBT (Union for Ethical BioTrade), such as Weleda, “it would quite literally change our industry and ultimately the world.” (Sterland, 2018).
Weleda: Marks their progress through their annual Sustainability Report, which aligns their targets with the UN Sustainable Development Goals to enhance transparency and traceability as well as safeguarfing nature and the needs of their cultivation partners (Sterland, 2018).
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Lush: After receiving feedback on the negative impact of plastic glitter, Lush swapped to a seaweed based ingredient that cost six times more because it would be better aligned with the company’s environmental values. He adds that Lush has also chosen not to patent the palm oil-free soaps it recently invented so that other brands wanting to switch to more sustainable methods can follow suit (Dias, 2016).
Lush: In early 2017, Lush Cosmetics Australia opened up its manufacturing kitchen to the press and public in a bid to boost transparency around how its products are made. The “Lush Kitchen” offered people to come in and even try their hand at making some of the bath and beauty products (Dias, 2016).
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Figure 39: Weleda’s shares their sustainable business model in efforts to be transparent of their actions
CONCLUSION:
3. What Examples are there of Transparent and Ethical Sustainable Cosmetic Brands? In conclusion, the sample of brands shown aim to portray themselves as transparent by releasing reports, allowing the public to interact with their manufacturing labs, or by sharing their sustainable innovations with other to better the industry overall. Actions made by these sample brands are examples of what sustainable brands should copy into their business practices.
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4. Are there Forms to Measure Greenwashing?
“‘There are so many contradictions that it’s hard to decipher what’s “greenwashing” - banging on about how great you are at saving dolphins/rare tribes, all the while submitting your products for animal testing in China/shipping bottles across the world/paying below-living-standard wages - and what’s genuine. Even with the best intentions, it’s hard to get it right” (Baird-Murray, 2018).
Think Dirty App Was created to disclose just how “toxic” and potentially damaging your cosmetics could be. The app works by scanning a barcode of products and revealing a 0-10 rating, thus allowing its users to bypass the brand’s own messaging (App Store, n.d.).
Clean Beauty App:
Beauty Lies Truth:
Consumers do not generally know much about cosmetic ingredients. Therefore, this App aids them in identifying: ingredients suspected to be endocrine disruptors, risky preservatives, irritating or comedogenic ingredients, and nanoparticles (Officinea, 2017).
Part blog and part product guide, the site has exposed many natural companies for not always being as pure as they’ve claimed. British retailer LUSH, famed for their commitment to all-natural and fresh formulae, was recently featured on the site for the fillers and preservatives they add to their products to extend shelf life availability (Medium, 2016).
Figure 40: Clean Beauty App
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By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Figure 41: Think Dirty App
“THE TRUTH: THE MAJORITY OF THESE INGREDIENTS ARE NOT SAFE. THEY ARE FILLERS AND PRESERVATIVES THAT ARE USED SOLELY TO EXTEND THE PRODUCT'S SHELF LIFE. AND THE REAL PROBLEM IS THAT THEY HAVE NOT BEEN TESTED FOR SAFETY”- (Assaf, 2015)
CONCLUSION:
4. Are there Forms to Measure Greenwashing? In conclusion, with the advancement of technology, the internet can provide the truth about cosmetics. App developers have created sources for consumers to better educate themselves and to better understand what is inside of their cosmetics. The cosmetic product can then be evaluated by the consumers, to whether they are sustainable for their “well-being”. There are also blogs or guides, such as Beauty Lies Truth, who warn consumers of companies greenwashing practices. Therefore, companies are not safe from viral criticism as viral content spreads and enlightens consumers around the world.
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IV. IDENTIFY THE PERCEPTION OF SUSTAINABILITY
1. Who are the Sustainable Cosmetic Consumers
Growing consumer awareness and strict government regulations pertaining to protecting the environment are anticipated to propel industry growth (Grand View Research, 2018).
New research from Canadean confirms that 51% of consumers globally say their beauty and grooming product choices are often or always influenced by how environmentally friendly or socially responsible the brand is (Matthews, 2017).
Environmentally Concerned
A 2017 Euromonitor International A survey conGlobal Consumer Trends ducted by Cardiff UniverSurvey revealed 65 per sity shows 75 per cent (3/4) cent of global consumers of people want the government try to have a positive imto ensure that businesses propact on the environment duce recyclable and repairable through their everyday products, while almost 90 peractions (Unilever, Nearly 90 per cent want all packaging to be 2017). cent of people (87%) recyclable (Cardiff University, believe there is a strong 2018). or very strong need to shift to a society that uses resources more efficiently. Only 0.4 per cent believe 81 per cent there is no need at all believe businesses (Cardiff University, should be required to 2018). provide repair, maintenance or disposal support for their products (Cardiff University, 2018).
Use of Animals and their Bi-products in Cosmetics
A Nielsen survey of more than 1,000 adults found that “not tested on animals” was the most important packaging claim amongst consumers of beauty products, with 57 percent of respondents selecting this over competing claims. Meanwhile, 43 percent of respondents said they would be willing pay more for products that had not been tested on animals. “These results should send a strong message to the cosmetics industry and to regulators,” says James Russo, senior 64 vice president of global consumer insights at Nielsen (Chitrakorn, 2016).
The growth of the vegan cosmetics market, which entails makeup, personal care, and hair care, indicates that more consumers than ever before are making a conscious effort to choose cruelty-free products that are free from animal ingredients. Carmine, bee’s wax, shellac, honey, and lanolin are among some of the most common animal-derived ingredients found in products. (Smith, 2018).
According to Mintel’s Global New Products Database (GNPD) new cruelty-free and vegan cosmetics launches represent a 175 percent increase from July 2013 to June 2018 (Smith, 2018).
E-commerce is a prominent segment in the vegan cosmetics market, with women being the primary end users. (Grand View Research, 2018)
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Green Consumers:
“Increasing pollution and unhealthy working lifestyles has driven adoption of alternatives such as organic cosmetics across the globe, especially among the youth. Younger generations prefer to use organic cosmetics, as it is free from high concentration of chemicals.” (Techsci research, n.d).
Consumer fear of chemicals is so great these days that scientists have a name for it — chemophobia. It leads people to avoid everything from genetically modified foods to essential medicines, often in search of “natural” alternatives (The New York Times, 2019).
Organic cosmetics are generally more popular among females, who accounted for more than 75% of the total organic skin care usage across the globe (Techsci research, n.d).
Recent research commissioned by Garnier showed more than half of people admitted to not recycling all of their bathroom items, while data from TerraCycle, a US-based recycling company, showed 4.5 million Brits simply find recycling bathroom waste inconvenient (Morgan, 2019).
Two thirds (65 per cent) of Due to a lack of people are frustrated awareness and underby products that do standing, not many customnot last (Cardiff Uniers are sensitive to the potential versity, 2018). damage to the environment caused by many traditional products. Since results of green marketing are not obvious in the short term, it is extremely difficult to influence the target group to become environmentally aware. The positive impact of green marketing is not felt to be real by Figure 42 many groups (IISD, n.d.).
This statistic shows the results of a survey among Americans in 2017 regarding their knowledge of the zero-waste movement. As of March 2017, some 15 percent of respondents stated that they know what it is.
Green Consumers can lack knowledge about environmental issues, and tend to not trust themselves to evaluate scientific information about environmental impacts. However, at the same time they are eager to learn, and this means that consumer education is one of the most effective strategies that entrepreneurs can use (IISD, n.d.).
Changing perception of consumers towards animal free products, coupled with growing popularity of environment sustainable products, is fueling the demand for naturally derived products. Manufacturing of naturally-derived products aid in reducing pollution and reducing dependence on petroleum based products (Grand View Research, 2018).
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Transparency Figure 43 The product transparency field has been comparatively neglected, especially in terms of standardisation. While corporate reporting is shaped by international standards such as GRI, SASB, <IR> and others, product transparency has no single globally recognised body or set of standards (A GUIDE TO PRODUCT TRANSPARENCY FOR SUSTAINABILITY, ETHICS AND HEALTH, 2018)
Between corporate reporting and brand puropose- product proof is the missing ingredient for consumer trust (A GUIDE TO PRODUCT TRANSPARENCY FOR SUSTAINABILITY, ETHICS AND HEALTH, 2018)
Figure 44
Millennials and Gen Z shoppers, are increasingly drawn to brands committed in ethical causes. 2018 Millennials Pulse Report by Shelton Group declares that 90% of millennials favour brands respecting social and environmental causes (Medium, 2018).
Figure 45
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55% of consumers demand more information on social, health, environmental and safety issues (But 86% of business leaders think they are already doing enough) (A GUIDE TO PRODUCT TRANSPARENCY FOR SUSTAINABILITY, ETHICS AND HEALTH, 2018)
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Figure 46
Figure 47
In 2017, 90% of the world’s 250 largest companies produced a CSR report (A GUIDE TO PRODUCT TRANSPARENCY FOR SUSTAINABILITY, ETHICS AND HEALTH, 2018).
70% of consumers are most interested in transparency about products (rather than the companies who made them 30% (A GUIDE TO PRODUCT TRANSPARENCY FOR SUSTAINABILITY, ETHICS AND HEALTH, 2018)
“Consumers want you to be transparent with other people. They expect you to be open with what you do, but the average consumer doesn’t want to read the report and go through the data. They are looking for a shorthand for transparency, like the farmer’s name on the apple, that demonstrates your openness.” -Mike Barry, Director of Sustainable Business, Marks & Spencer (A GUIDE TO PRODUCT TRANSPARENCY FOR SUSTAINABILITY, ETHICS AND HEALTH, 2018)
There is a need to ‘humanize’ transparency (A GUIDE TO PRODUCT TRANSPARENCY FOR SUSTAINABILITY, ETHICS AND HEALTH, 2018)
“Consumers want evidence and consistent results. You don’t do this for a single marketing campaign – it’s all about gaining trust and loyalty over the long term.” Chris Daly, CEO, Chartered Institute of Marketing (A GUIDE TO PRODUCT TRANSPARENCY FOR SUSTAINABILITY, ETHICS AND HEALTH, 2018)
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Figure 48
Figure 49
95% of corporate members of The Consumer Goods Forum and members of Chartered Institute of Marketing believe that consumer interest in transparency about social, health, environmental and safety issues will increase in the future (A GUIDE TO PRODUCT TRANSPARENCY FOR SUSTAINABILITY, ETHICS AND HEALTH, 2018)
Consumers: Certifications
“They are a possibility but not enough to build the trust and to transform the market. Full understanding of the supply chain is better to transform the practices.” (A GUIDE TO PRODUCT TRANSPARENCY FOR SUSTAINABILITY, ETHICS AND HEALTH, 2018)
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“They are perceived as helpful by some consumers and others may misinterpret them.” (A GUIDE TO PRODUCT TRANSPARENCY FOR SUSTAINABILITY, ETHICS AND HEALTH, 2018)
“If the consumer is knowledgeable on the label and what they represent, they can be helpful (A GUIDE TO PRODUCT TRANSPARENCY FOR SUSTAINABILITY, ETHICS AND HEALTH, 2018).
“We don’t think the consumer has a clue as to what/ how the symbols stand for.” (A GUIDE TO PRODUCT TRANSPARENCY FOR SUSTAINABILITY, ETHICS AND HEALTH, 2018)
Certifications are not always understood by consumers, therefore they can not be a reliable source for full transparency. Brands need to display more information, that consumers can understand, without background knowledge.
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
CONCLUSION:
1. Who are the Sustainable Cosmetic Consumers In conclusion, consumers are becoming increasingly aware of the harm caused towards the environment and animals; therefore the demand for green products and transparency is growing. Consumers are now demanding that their governments control business’ actions to further prevent destruction, waste, and toxicity caused by the cosmetic industry. They are scared of chemicals, yet most of them do not have an educated understanding of the complexity within cosmetic design. Consumers lack knowledge on the current implications caused by the cosmetic industry, but are curious and eager to learn how to cause little to no harm. Those who remain non curious, buy into brands’ green marketing, believing that they are being ‘sustainable’, however do not truly know that it is unfortunately a selling tactic of businesses. Therefore, it is hard to convince those consumers to become environmentally aware and to make more sustainable choices. Although, consumers are beginning to show signs of frustration that their products do not last and are consequently causing large harm to the Earth. However, data shows that more than sixty per cent of Americans do not know about the zero-waste movement.This is interesting, as the Zero Waste concept is growing, as seen on page x, which will most likely influence consumers’ opinion on industrialized cosmetics. Consumers feel that the only way to trust a brand is for them to be transparent. Through transparency and validation, from standards, brands will gain consumers trust. They feel that there is a lack from companies providing the social, health, environmental and safety impacts of products. If a cosmetic company were to display transparent corporate practice, product proof, and prove their brands’ purpose, customers would respect and adhere to that brand. There is a need to ‘humanize transparency’, meaning brands need to act as an honest human would. The simplest way to provide transparency on packaging is through certifications. Althoug consumer education is required first for certifications to be comprehendable in their logo meaning.
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2. What Type of Activism/Influencers are Adressing the Current Cosmetic Industry:
Figure 50: In this video, on Youtube, Samantha Ravndahl brings up her concern for the excessive amount of packaging sent to her for PR. She also discusses the overwhelming layers cosmetics are packaged within and how it is unnecessary and is consequently unsustainable.
Packaging’s aesthetic appeal attracts consumers to a product. However, a product’s appearance, on Instagram for example, isn’t the only consideration. Certain ingredients require specific packaging to prevent problems like bottle corrosion, and online purchases require extra protection during shipping.
Figure 51: His BBC documentary Blue Planet II graphically revealed the catastrophic effects of plastic pollution on marine wildlife, with evidence showing plastic in ocean waters thousands of miles from land and birds feeding microplastics to their young.
Figure 52: A Plastic Ocean 2017 film discusses the history of plastic, its effects which have mostly been on marine life and the lands they accumulate upon, as well as strategies to reduce the impacts of plastic
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Microbeads:‘Beat the Microbead’ campaign : The campaign resulted in the announcement by manufacturers to stop using microbeads in their cosmetic products and the US passed a federal law to ban microbeads in rinse-off personal care products in 2018 (Sierra Club, n.d.)
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
(Youtube, 2018) (Youtube, 2018) Figure 53 and 54: Youtuber, Tati Westbrook, educates her then almost six million followers about harmful and toxic chemicals in cosmetics and takes them to Sephora to browse through the brands’ ‘Clean Beauty’ category which are free of parabens, sulfates, phtalates, and more.
Figure 56: Kourtney Kardashian Is Pushing Congress for Stricter Cosmetics Regulations
CONCLUSION:
2. What Type of Activism/Influencers are Adressing the Current Cosmetic Industry?
Figure 55: Actress, Mandy Moore partnered with Garnier, DoSomething, and TerraCycle to endorse their “Rinse, Recycle, and Repeat” campaign in efforts to educate consumers on how to recycle their cosmetics.
In conclusion, activist campaigns such as ‘Beat the Microbead”, documentaries, and social media shares from influencers are voicing the creators viewpoints on the harm of the cosmetic industry to consumers. Packaging and ingredients are being exposed to consumers as items that should be questioned, and their impacts are being visually publicized around the world.
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IV. EVALUATE HOW COSMETIC BRANDS ARE PERFORMING IN REGARDS TO SUSTAINABILITY? 1. What are the Key Facts and Figures Regarding the Leading Corporations Figure 57
A study done by Think Step, questioned eight well known global cosmetic companies, as shown in Figure x, about their sustainable efforts and viewpoints. As shown from Figure x, the companies were evaluated on the environmental product assesment, ingredients and formulation, as well as packing for the product level. In terms of the Environmental product assesment, all companies conduct Life Cycle Assesments, with two evaluating their products water footprint, as when a cosmetic is used much water is needed and that factor also leads to the emission of CO2 when products come in contact with heated water. Half of the companies performed LCA on their packaging, and one company claims that PET plastics improve the environmental performance of the packaging. With ingredients and formulation, more than half of the companies are taking action to increase the share of plant based ingredients. The benefits are impacts from mining and the salvation of non renewable resources.However only three of the eight companies mention their desire to increase bio degradable ingredients. Cosmetic companies are also taking action to attain Natural Ingredient certifications, meanwhile five have banned synthetic chemicals of concern into their formulations. In terms of packaging for products, all companies aim to reduce the amount of packaging materials as it not only saves resources but costs. All are willing to increase the share of post consumer recycling materials to therefore reuse into packaging. However, seven companies also aim to increase the share of bioplastics, which are made from renewable biomass sources
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It is also interesting to mention that biopolyethelyne is currently the most popular bioplastic. There is criteria for the perfect bioplastic which is: better environmental performance over Life Cyclecompared to petrochemical plastics, no competition with food, suitable barrier functions, and non negative influences on recycling infastructure However, currently no bioplastics that meet this criteria.
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Figure 58
Figure 59: Companies evaluated
In terms of the corporate level, all companies have environmental management systems which aid them through consistent review and evaluation. Corporations are aiming toward reducing their green house gass emissions 20-100%, while also increasing their share of renewable energy by 10-50%. Waste, being an environmental and economical cost, is another aspect corporations want to reduce. All companies want to increase the recycling of the waste, which four already do, and seven have promised to send zero waste to the landfill. However, corrupt actions should be monitored as some companies may be tempted to incinerate their waste to achieve a zero-waste circular economy appearance. Lastly, palm oil, wood, and soy are the leading causes of deforestation, attributed to the cosmetic industry. Therefore, all companies have implemented sustainable procurement policies and plan to only purchase certified 73 environmentally friendly raw materials. Despite palm oil creating 70 percent of all cosmetic products, five corporations prefer to end the supply of potentially environmentally harmful ingredients.
Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
Impacts on the Environment/Eco-system: Plastic Packaging Alternatives from Large Cosmetic Companies
Procter & Gamble: Has committed to introduce 25% recycled plastic across 500 million bottles sold yearly on its haircare brands (Mintel, 2018).
Garnier: Working with TerraCycle to make it easier to recycle its packaging (Morgan, 2019).
Origins: Recycles empty cosmetic products from any brand (La Pompe-Moore, 2019).
Neal’s Yard Remedies: Packages its products using glass bottles, jars and 100 per cent post-consumer recycling plastic, plans to use 100 per cent recycled plastic bottles by 2025. Louise Green, head of sustainability at Neal’s Yard Remedies, said she’d love the industry to encourage people to work together more. She notes that while the company’s mission statement strives to use sustainable packaging, like its iconic apothecary glass bottles, plastic is often the choice when it comes to certain products (Morgan, 2019).
Businesses including SC Johnson, PepsiCo, H&M, Colgate-Palmolive Company, L’Oreal, Selfridges, Johnson and Johnson Consumer Inc and Unilever have committed to eliminating plastic when it’s unnecessary, and to shift to reusable packaging in some cases. These are some of the 250 brands, who are also business giants, which between them account for 20 per cent of all plastic packaging in the world. They have teamed up with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation to pledge to end plastic waste. By 2025, they plan to make all plastic packaging either reusable, recyclable, or compostable (Morgan, 2019).
Aveda: “This is one brand that is leading the force”. Aveda is a botanical hair and skincare brand, which has made sustainability a priority, especially in terms of packaging. Aveda was the first beauty company to use 100 per cent post-consumer recycled polyethylene terephthalate, and now more than 85 per cent of its casings, bottles and jars contain 100 per cent post-consumer recycled materials. When they are not able to use 100 per cent PCR, they mix in Biolastic made from sugarcane (Morgan, 2019).
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L’Oréal Australia: Collaborated with Terracycle to launch a free collection and recycling service for empty beauty products in order to tackle environmental waste (Whitehouse, 2016).
Method: Has used recovered ocean plastic and post-consumer recycled plastic to created its Dish & Hand Soap bottles (Morgan, 2019.
Aveda and Soaper Duper: Using post-consumer recycled plastics in its packaging (La PompeMoore, 2019). Seed Phytonutrients by Loreal: The brand developed a compostable shower-safe bottle made from recycled paper waste that comes from a L’Oréal distribution centre in California (O’Conner, 2018). Lush:
Launched “Naked Shops” in Milan and Berlin offering packaging-free cosmetics, currently have no plans to sell their products wholesale to large retailers, such as Tesco, Waitrose or Sainsbury’s. Speaking to The Independent, a spokesman said: “The long supply chains that conventional retailers have just do not suit naked beauty products. They should focus on their core business and drop cosmetics, leaving it to the specialists.” (Morgan, 2019). Herbivore Botanicals, Tata Harper and Neal’s Yard Remedies: “Chic packaging that’s designed to be recyclable and reusable” (La Pompe-Moore, 2019).
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Chris Stark, Chief Executive of the Committee on Climate Change, said: “The UK has shown that it's possible to cut carbon emissions whilst growing its economy. But the recent IPCC report on global warming of 1.5 degrees demonstrates that we need new approaches to tackle climate change and reach net zero. Resource efficiency offers government just such a new way to cut carbon, and this report shows that policy makers have a public mandate to get on with the job." - (Cardiff University, 2018) Figure 60: Lush’s Naked Shops which sell products with zero packaging
Figure 61: L’Oreal’s ‘Seed Phytonutrients’ compostable packaging
CONCLUSION:
1. What are the Key Facts and Figures Regarding the Leading Corporations In Conclusion, large cosmetic companies are announcing their growing efforts towards sustainability.They are becoming more keen towards transparency and are finding that sustainable alternatvies are also cost efficient. Their environmental assesments, formulation and packaging analyses, as well as their environmental management system adherance, energy and waste concerns, and their stance on sustainable procurement are all effective measures the industry should adhere to if they want to move towards a safer and sustainable future. Large brands, as shown on page 74, are providing “sustainable” answers; however their 75 answers are mostly based on using post consumer recycled plastic, which is not the most efficient.
Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
3. Which “Sustainable” Cosmetic Brands are Really Sustainable?: A Benchmark
Traits:
Natural and Organic Certified
Natural Certified
Organic Certified
Cruelty-Free Certified
Figure 62 Vegan Certified
Fairtrade Certified
Montamonta
LUSH
The Body Shop
Weleda
Tata Harper
Les Happy Curiennes
Aveda
Neal’s Yard Remedies
H&M Conscious
Kjaer Weis
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Dr. Bronners
Only some products
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Figure 62 continued Sustainably Sourced Certified
Marketing Certification Stamps Describes themselves as “Sustainable”, yet does not certify “Fresh, Handmade Cosmetics”
CSR Reports/ Audits
Recyled Packaging
Packaging Refillable/ Reusable/ Zero
Biodegrad- Gives back to able sustainable Materials cause
Refillable
Offers Zero Packaging
“Natural Cosmetics”
“Natural Beauty and Holistic Wellness”
Ingredients biodegrade
100% Natural, non-toxic skincare products, cosmetics...” Gives insight to their sourcing online, but no certifications
“Natural”
“Natural Organic Health & Beauty”
“Certified Cosmetics”, yet only certified Organic
Recycled & Bioplastics
Compostable/ Reusable
Refillable Cosmetics
Ingredients biodegrade
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Benchmark of “Sustainable” Cosmetic Brands: Continued Figure 63: Dr. Bronner’s website
Figure 64: Neal’s Yard Remedies website
Figure 65: Lush’s wesbsite
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Benchmark of “Sustainable” Cosmetic Brands: Continued
CONCLUSION:
3. Which “Sustainable” Cosmetic Brands are Really Sustainable?: A Benchmark In the benchmark on pages 78-79, small to large cosmetic brands are measured on how sustainable they truly are. Traits were taken from the overall research findings, as well as Annex: Figure 68. If a brand adheres to a trait, they get an Earth symbol.They only get an Earth symbol if they comply with that aspect fully. The author of this thesis created this benchmark based off of information attained from the brands’ websites. In conclusion, no brand holds all values equated with sustainable cosmetics; however, the top four best are: 1. Dr. Bronners (9 Earth’s) 2. Neal’s Yard Remedies (With 8 Earth’s) 3. Lush (With 5 Earth’s). Dr. Bronners could be valued as extremely sustainable due to their actions protecting animal well-fare, the environment, and social aspects.They could improve if their packaging was zero-waste, biodegradable, or reusable; as well as having a natural certification. Neal’s Yard Remedies could improve with the transparency aspect by releasing a CSR Report. They could also use biodegradable materials and be certified natural and organic. Lush protects animal well-being, the environment, and social aspects as well, however is not certified organic or natural, and does not certify its sustainable efforts in sourcing. Overall, the majority of these brands who claim to be “sustainable” are not, as they remain to use plastic in packaging, despite it being recycled it is still a harmful material. They also are not fully transparent online with their efforts, which leads consumers to be confused and uneducated on the important topic of sustainable cosmetics.
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Final Discussion and Conclusion :
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Discussion and Conclusion: The aim of this dissertation is to to ‘develop a clear understanding on how the cosmetic industry interacts with the sustainable methodology and if it is performing accurately’.
as it become clear that it harmed the environment, the eco-system, and put human’s health in danger. However, the usage of fossil fuels has continued, as it is a large source of economic sustainability.
Therefore, the literature review aided, the author, in being the landing point of theory to include into the rest of the dissertation. By understanding the current meaning of sustainability, the author was able to bring the meaning and its most respected solutions to the cosmetic industry.
The Ellen McCarthur foundation,(n.d), Connett (2013), and Vilella (2018), from the literature review, all provide the same solution for the industrial civilizations’ destructive methods.They encourage for all policy makers, corporations, and individuals to follow the Zero-Waste Circular Economy.This means that instead of contributing to the harmful linear economy that has existed in almost every industry, since industrialization, humans should now alternate to a system that reuses, recycles, reduces and redesigns products. By following this solution, there would be no more waste added to the already overwhelming amount on this Earth.
From grasping knowledge on the current understanding of sustainability, well-being was found to be the most imperative and universally respected aspect. Well-being protects all life forms’ health and happiness on Earth. It is shown to be necessary, in current times, as much harm has been been caused to all forms on Earth, since the industrial civilization began. Solutions to solve the current concern of well-being is the Zero Waste movement and the Circular Economy. Both of these solutions encourage the cooperation between all policy makers and organizations to reuse, reduce, recycle, and redesign the current life cycle of products. By following a zero-waste circular economy model, there is no waste emitted and every source used is renewed or regenerated. As this thesis is focused on the cosmetic industry, it was imperative to discover what makes a cosmetic sustainable. This was discovered through the usage of the information attained in the literature review. The data analysis provided the actual information regarding the industry, as well as its sustainable possibility. Therefore, the following discussion will be based off of the conclusions made from the data results, with the implementation of applied theories for the final conclusion. Throughout history, cosmetics have thrived and have aided in the well-being of its users. It has boosted humans confidence and has given them a sense of power and attractiveness. However, as the industrial civilization grew, cosmetics grew as well in production. As the demand for cosmetics have soared, with the increase in population, mass waste and chemical pollution have impacted this Earth. In addition, cheap and unethical labor have harmed the well-being of human laborers, and animals have been used as test objects or by-products in unethical manners. The cosmetic industrys’ harmful effects have been hidden from the public for many years; however now as packaging waste and ingredient toxicity is a public concern, due to its largely noticeable effects, the industry and consumers are inclined to move towards sustainable alternatives. Sustainability gained concern in the late nex:Figure x) as environmental disasters change began to worry humankind. The of fossil fuel usage was one of the most
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1960’s (Anand climate implications concerning,
For the most part, the cosmetic industry is not fully following a circular economy. The industry has shown efforts in redesigning their business model and some have voiced their aim to create no waste and to be a part of the circular economy, by a certain year. They also aim to show more transparency, incorporate recycled or decomposable packaging, and use more natural or organic non-toxic ingredient sources, as well as ditching animal testing. However, most of this industries efforts are not enough. The complexity and levels of managing a sustainable world, is shown in the cosmetic industries’ efforts. As Jay, Soderstrom and Grant (2017) argue with their theory of paradoxes, the cosmetic industry is not taking into account all aspects regarding sustainability. As shown in Figure 1 of this thesis, the well-being of every aspect on this Earth must be protected and respected. So far, in the cosmetic industry, brands who claim to be ‘sustainable’ do not fit most of the traits (as shown in Figure 62: Benchmark). There is also the allowance of brands to ‘greenwash’ in some regions, such as the US, as those regions hold no defined law for how ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ are defined within the cosmetic industry. In the US, as well, they have only banned 11 chemicals for cosmetics, while the EU has banned 1,328. Due to this stark contrast, it is suspected and proven, in the data results, that large corporations have corruptly lobbied the government to ensure that their protected yet knowingly toxic industrial suppies continue. This idea is known to be the case in other industries, such as that of the unsustainable agriculture and fashion, which have proof of corporate economical interest and protection. Therefore, it is up to consumers to demand change. The reasoning as to why the cosmetic industry is developing slowly in terms of sustainability, is due to the change mostly being taken for corporations sake. Lead-
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
Ze r
Well-Being = Future
Un
n
e Circular Ec ast on W o
y
In order for the sustainable cosmetic industry to grow and be adapted by all brands, consumer demand is needed. This necessity is currently happening and is growing globally. It is shown, through data, that cosmetic companies are reactive. For instance, in the US, they have only reacted to the knowing concerns of harmful chemicals when legislators banned them. The industry, however, is also reactive to consumers demands as without consumers desireability, there would be no business. They are only reactive to what consumers demand. Therefore, as more consumers expose themselves to the unsustainable ways of this industry, through the help of activism and influencers, more demand for sustainability and transparency. Influencers,
To conclude, a model has been drawn up by the author of this dissertation, to visually symbolize that well-being is our future.It is scientifically and visually depicted that well-being, in many different aspects, is not being taken into account and is being damaged. Without the well-being of this Earth, there is no Earth. As Kuhlman and Farrington (2010) state, strong sustainability can not be replaced. The ocean, land, animals, and living organisms can not be replaced. However, all are showing concerning signs of damaging change. The only solutions, that the cosmetic industry should take into account, are by following a Zero-Waste Circular Economy plan while a unified global regulation is determined. Sustainability is well-being, and well-being matters for current and future generations on this planet.
om
However, consumers are not very educated in how to tell if a cosmetic is sustainable or not. With the ease of greenwashing, consumers may believe they are purchasing into a trusted and safe product, when in reality it is a marketing setup. Certifications are appreciated by consumers, and can enhance the packaging’s desireability; however, most consumers do not know what certain certification labels stand for as their names are abreviated or show a symbol. Most get confused, as there is usually no education from brands, when their products do have certifications. This leads to the author of this thesis’ critical suggestion for the industry.
Policy maker’s job is to listen to their people and to protect them. Therefore, they need to do their job. All governments around the world need to agree on sustainable initiatives and bans. There needs to be unified global regulation or a unified cosmeto vigilance. Awareness needs to reach all human beings, around the globe, as most are uneducated, unaware, or do not seem to care enough about the threatening need for sustainable actions.
Global Regula ti o
Consumers are demanding products which take into account the well-being of environmental, social, health, and safety aspects. They want to take part in something that is healthy and pure. It is shown from data, that they would even pay more for sustainble cosmetics; however, this does not mean cosmetic brands should make sustainable products more expensive. As modern day consumers, and especially the younger generation, are surrounded by information from the internet, they appreciate and are now demanding for corporate transparency. They want to know if their products were sourced and manufactured ethically, if the ingredients in the product will cause harm to themselves or the environment, as well as if the packaging and termination of the product will result in long-lasting environmental harm. Young consumers, are especially worried and involved in the topic of sustainability, as there are constant warnings from scientist and the media of dire need for sustainable changes, or else the planet and everyone’s well-being will be compromised.
with power, such as Kourtney Kardashian, in the data, have initiatied public and global awareness on toxic chemicals in cosmetics, and has sparked government regulation. Therefore, both the power of consumers and global influencers will aid in activating legislative change.
ed ifi
ing cosmetic corporations are showing efforts of sustainable business practices, such as monitoring their products life cycle assesment and packaging changes, as they have found it to be not only cost efficient but important for their current and futue positional well-being. Companies who perform sustainably, will be respected as early adapters within the trend of sustainability; and this trend is growing in all industries.
IED 2019
Figure 63: A Conclusive and Recommended Model to Follow
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Limitations:
The limitations of this research are mainly concerning time and the large scope of this topic. Due to the brief amount of months given to complete this dissertation, most topics did not have the opportunity to be researched as deeply as desired. In addition, the word count limited the authors desire to explain, in more depth, the potential extension of this topicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s findings. In addition, there is scarce information on the sustainable cosmetic industry, as it is new in demand. Also, there is not a lot of information regarding the cosmetic industrysâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; harm, as other industries are focused on more. Adding on to that point, the author had difficulty attaining global statistics on the cosmetic and sustainable cosmetic market, due to sources charging high prices for the information. Therefore, the author conducted much market research, to the best of her ability, in search of suitable and relevant data.
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By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Further Research: For future research, I would reccommend the implementation of an opinion I found while researching. Kim, an author for the Deep Green Resistance New York (Kim, 2013), believes that sustainability can never exist if the industrial civilization continues. She believes that the economy and capitalism is the root of all harm. From her article, it is interpreted that any solution that causes less harm, still causes harm. In addition, she claims that humans are the monsters, and do not realize how horrible we, as a species, are. Buying less is not the problem, it is humanity and the greed that comes with the human species.Therefore, further research could include this ideology as a deep theory that could be answered to in a more positive and realistic manner. In addition, a deeper research could be extended from this dissertation on the alternative and sustainable cosmetic packaging materials that are being developed. A deeper research into animal testing of cosmetics could be responded to as well.
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Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industriesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
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By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
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Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
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IED 2019
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Figures Work CIted: Figure 1: Jackson, M. (n.d.). A collage of typical climate and weather-related events: heatwaves, drought, hurricanes, wildfires and changes in sea ice coverage. (… | Climate change | Climate action, Year of dates, Data show. [online] Pinterest. Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/529454499935914301/?lp=true [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 2: Jay, J., Soderstrom, S. and Grant, G. (2017). Navigating the Paradoxes of Sustainability. [online] Oxford Handbooks Online. Available at: https://www.oxfordhandbooks.com/view/10.1093/oxfordhb/9780198754428.001.0001/oxfordhb-9780198754428-e-18 [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Figure 3: Created by the author (2019) Figure 4: Created by the author (2019) Figure 5: Connett, P. (2013). The Zero Waste Solution: Untrashing the Planet One Community at a Time. [online] Google Books. Available at: https://books.google.es/books?hl=en&lr=&id=e_yGAgAAQBAJ&oi=fnd&pg=PR9&dq=zero+waste+alternative&ots=LTrKDHDtUE&sig=L8xCXnMnFj1PXtR5PWlDRhb7Q9g#v=onepage&q=zero%20waste%20alternative&f=false [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Figure 6: Cosmetics Europe - The Personal Care Association. (n.d.). Cosmetic Products. [online] Available at: https://www.cosmeticseurope.eu/cosmetic-products/ [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 7: Created by the author (2019) and Sahota, A. (2014). Sustainability. Chichester, West Sussex, United Kingdom: John Wiley & Sons. Khan, A. and Alam, M. (2019). COSMETICS AND THEIR ASSOCIATED ADVERSE EFFECTS: A REVIEW. Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 2(1). Youtube (2019). The Dark Secret Behind Your Favorite Makeup Products | Shady | Refinery29. [video] Available at: https://www. youtube.com/watch?v=IeR-h9C2fgc [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Figure 8. SumOfUs. (n.d.). Make a donation to save the orangutans. [online] Available at: https://actions.sumofus.org/a/chip-in-togive-orangutans-a-future [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 9. Terre des Hommes. (n.d.). Stop child labour in mica mines. [online] Available at: https://www.terredeshommes.nl/n/programmes/stop-child-labour-mica-mines [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 10: Created by the author (2019) and Sahota, A. (2014). Sustainability. Chichester, West Sussex, United Kingdom: John Wiley & Sons. Csorba, L. and Boglea, V. (2011). View of Sustainable cosmetics: a major instrument in protecting the consumer’s interest. [online] Journal.ke.hu. Available at: http://journal.ke.hu/index.php/rbs/article/view/455/949 [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Dayan, N. and Kromidas, L. (2011). Formulating, Packaging, and Marketing of Natural Cosmetic Products. Hoboken: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., pp.3-14. Khan, A. and Alam, M. (2019). COSMETICS AND THEIR ASSOCIATED ADVERSE EFFECTS: A REVIEW. Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 2(1). Figure 11: Parker, L. (2019). Baby fish have started eating plastic. We haven’t yet seen the consequences. [online] National Geographic. Available at: https://www.nationalgeographic.com/magazine/2019/05/microplastics-impact-on-fish-shown-in-pictures/ [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 12: Dalton, J. (2019). Do companies still test toiletries and household cleaners on animals?. [online] The Independent. Available at: https://www.independent.co.uk/infact/animal-testing-cruelty-free-cosmetics-toiletries-household-products-a8877221.html [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 13: Listed references plus Sahota, A. (2014). Sustainability. Chichester, West Sussex, United Kingdom: John Wiley & Sons. Figure 14: Webster, B. (2018). Plastic found in every dead turtle. [online] The Times. Available at: https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/ plastic-found-in-every-dead-turtle-6dt7mdpgs [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 15: Fraze, B. (2016). After Peruvian oil spill, nuns wonder where students will bathe, play. [online] America Magazine. Available at: https://www.americamagazine.org/issue/after-peruvian-oil-spill-scrambling-care-students [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 16: Created by the author (2019)
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Figure 17: Mackenzie, K. (2017). The Guardians of the Great Barrier Reef. [online] Foreign Policy. Available at: https://foreignpolicy. com/2017/12/21/the-guardians-of-the-great-barrier-reef-australia-climate-change/ [Accessed 21 May 2019].
Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
Figure 18: Johnston, I. (2017). Microbeads ban: Government to outlaw microplastics in cosmetic products. [online] The Independent. Available at: https://www.independent.co.uk/environment/microbeads-ban-bill-uk-cosmetic-products-government-outlaws-microplastics-a7852346.html [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 19. Pinterest. (n.d.). Safe cosmetics, Organic cleaning products, Health, wellbeing. [online] Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/38351034303612562/?lp=true [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 20: Safe Sunscreen Coalition. (n.d.). Ban Toxic Sunscreen Hawaii Stickers (3). [online] Available at: https://sunscreensafe. com/shop/ban-toxic-sunscreen-stickers/ [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 21: Borgna, I. (2014). REACH: taking up alternatives to animal testing - Kosmetica World. [online] Kosmetica World. Available at: https://www.kosmeticaworld.com/2014/11/06/reach-taking-up-alternatives-to-animal-testing/ [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 22: BBC News. (2018). Wet wipes could face wipe-out. [online] Available at: https://www.bbc.com/news/44034025 [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Figure 23: Kelly, C. (2018). The truth about talc, parabens and 8 other controversial makeup ingredients. [online] USA Today. Available at: https://eu.usatoday.com/story/news/investigations/2018/11/21/talc-parabens-makeup-ingredients-safe-toxic/2002867002/ [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 24: Statista. (2019). Market size of cosmetic ingredients worldwide in 2015 and 2020 (in billion U.S. dollars). [online] Available at: https://www.statista.com/statistics/627786/market-size-of-cosmetic-ingredients-worldwide/ [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Figure 25: Statista. (2019). Consumption value of cosmetics and personal care in Europe in 2017, by country* (in million euros). [online] Available at: https://www.statista.com/statistics/382100/european-cosmetics-market-volume-by-country/ [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Figure 26: Statista. (2019). Leading health and beauty care product categories in the United States in 2018, based on sales (in million U.S. dollars). [online] Available at: https://www.statista.com/statistics/192647/leading-us-health-and-beauty-care-productcategories-in-2013/ [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Figure 27: Allied Market Research. (2019). Cosmetics Market Size, Share, Industry Trends and Analysis. [online] Available at: https://www.alliedmarketresearch.com/cosmetics-market [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Figure 28: Png mart. (n.d.). Makeup PNG Images Transparent Free Download. [online] Available at: http://www.pngmart.com/image/tag/makeup [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 29: Statista. (2019). Natural and organic beauty: forecasted market size worldwide 2016-2024. [online] Available at: https:// www.statista.com/statistics/750779/natural-organic-beauty-market-worldwide/ [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 30-31: Grand View Research. (2018). Vegan Cosmetics Market Size, Share | Industry Trend Report 2018-2025. [online] Available at: https://www.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/vegan-cosmetics-market [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Figure 32: McTigue Pierce, L. (2015). Plastic packaging dominates the personal care market. [online] Packaging Digest. Available at: https://www.packagingdigest.com/personal-care-packaging/plastic-packaging-dominates-the-personal-care-market1505 [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 33-34: Ritchie, H. and Roser, M. (2018). Plastic Pollution. [online] Our World in Data. Available at: https://ourworldindata. org/plastic-pollution [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Figure 35: Leahy, S. (2018). How People Make Only a Jar of Trash a Year. [online] National Geographic. Available at: https:// news.nationalgeographic.com/2018/05/zero-waste-families-plastic-culture/ [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 37. Twitter. (2017). The Body Shop: 80% of countries worldwide still have no laws against animal testing! Sign our petition to change this. [online] Available at: https://twitter.com/thebodyshop/status/880005362073686016 [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 38: PETA. (2018). Cruelty-Free Companies: These DO NOT Test on Animals. [online] Available at: https://www.peta.org/ living/personal-care-fashion/these-companies-dont-test-on-animals/ [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 39: Sterland, J. (2018). Transparency: how can the beauty industry respond? ‘We can quite literally change the world’. [online] cosmeticsdesign-europe. Available at: https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2018/10/30/Transparency-howcan-the-beauty-industry-respond-We-can-quite-literally-change-the-world [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Figure 40: Officinea. (2017). CLEAN BEAUTY : the beauty app to decrypt all cosmetics !. [online] Available at: https://www.officinea.fr/le-blog/en/clean-beauty-the-beauty-app-to-decrypt-all-cosmetics/ [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Figure 41: App Store. (n.d.). Think Dirty – Shop Clean. [online] Available at: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/think-dirty-shopclean/id687176839?mt=8 [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Figure 42: Statista. (2019). Have you ever heard about the zero-waste movement?. [online] Available at: https://www.statista.com/ statistics/700570/americans-who-have-heard-about-the-zero-waste-movement-united-states/ [Accessed 20 May 2019]. 94 Figure 43-49: A GUIDE TO PRODUCT TRANSPARENCY FOR SUSTAINABILITY, ETHICS AND HEALTH. (2018). [ebook] The Consumer Goods Forum. Available at: https://www.theconsumergoodsforum.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/CGF-Futerra-Transparency-and-the-Honest-Product.pdf [Accessed 20 May 2019].
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Figure 50: Youtube (2018). NO MORE PR... | Samantha Ravndahl. [video] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oyoblecIPwE [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Figure 51: Bergman, S. (2018). Opinion: How 2018 turned environmentalism from a radical niche into a mainstream trend. [online] The Independent. Available at: https://www.independent.co.uk/voices/environment-climate-change-blue-planet-2-recycling-plastic-david-attenborough-donald-trump-stacey-a8703296.html [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 52: Grelon, P. (2016). Review – ‘A Plastic Ocean’. [online] Ecozine. Available at: http://www.ecozine.com/article/review%E2%80%93-%E2%80%98a-plastic-ocean%E2%80%99 [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 53: Youtube (2018). THE DIRTY TRUTH ABOUT SKINCARE ... Products to AVOID!. [video] Available at: https://www. youtube.com/watch?v=4eQ5LCoUrOY [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Figure 54: Youtube (2018). Full Face of “CLEAN MAKEUP” Try-on & Wear Test. [video] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=y4km0QFCqJM [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Figure 55: Hirschlag, A. (2018). Half of Americans don’t recycle their beauty products. Here’s how you can change that.. [online] Upworthy. Available at: https://www.upworthy.com/half-of-americans-don-t-recycle-their-beauty-products-here-s-how-you-canchange-that [Accessed 20 May 2019].]. Figure 56: Gardner, A. (2018). Kourtney Kardashian Is Pushing Congress for Stricter Cosmetics Regulations. [online] Glamour. Available at: https://www.glamour.com/story/kourtney-kardashian-cosmetics-regulations [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Figure 57-59: Youtube (2019). Webinar | Analysis of Sustainability in the European Cosmetics Market. [video] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBQPoGFdoT4&feature=youtu.be&utm_campaign=thinkstep.com+Resources&utm_medium=email&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-9rUJZy0nEJjg_DiC0qdWiROHpiFAvjS45SP-EGH_g430Y0awWG07DwPy3LNopq-1qiVX8uZX5TF0PXqf6B5hfNvsrxhw&_hsmi=67687119&utm_content=67687119&utm_source=hs_automation&hsCtaTracking=fb580234-cd4b-4c8c-ae21-d90f9262fcf8%7Cbb7af07b-0c0f-474d-9a35-f9f5a55b0dd1 [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Figure 60: Letten, A. (n.d.). Lush Naked Shop: Inside the packaging-free cosmetic stores. [online] Lush Fresh Handmade Cosmetics UK. Available at: https://uk.lush.com/article/lush-naked-shop-inside-packaging-free-cosmetic-stores [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 61: Gallon, V. (2018). Multinationals jump on natural cosmetics bandwagon. [online] Premium Beauty News. Available at: https://www.premiumbeautynews.com/en/multinationals-jump-on-natural,14231 [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 62: Benchmark Aveda. (n.d.). Living Aveda - Our Story - Aveda Cares. [online] Available at: https://www.aveda.com/living-aveda/aveda-cares [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Dr. Bronner’s. (n.d.). About: Our Six Cosmic Principles. [online] Available at: https://www.drbronner.com/about/ [Accessed 20 May 2019]. H&M. (n.d.). Eco & Organic beauty products - Conscious. [online] Available at: https://www2.hm.com/en_gb/ladies/shop-by-product/ beauty/conscious.html [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Kjaer Weis. (n.d.). Kjaer Weis — Certified Organic Makeup. [online] Available at: https://kjaerweis.com/about/intelligent-refill-system [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Lush Fresh Handmade Cosmetics. (n.d.). Our Values. [online] Available at: https://www.lushusa.com/story?cid=article_our-valueslush [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Les Happy Curiennes. (n.d.). OUR ECO-SOCIO-DESIGN APPROACH. [online] Available at: https://leshappycuriennes.com/demarche-eco-socio-conception/ [Accessed 20 May 2019]. montamonta. (n.d.). montamonta. [online] Available at: https://www.montamonta.com/ [Accessed 20 May 2019] Neals Yard Remedies. (n.d.). About Our Commitments. [online] Available at: https://www.nealsyardremedies.com/about-our-commitment.html#certified-ethical-sourcing [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Tata Harper. (n.d.). Official Site | Tata Harper Skincare | 100% Natural Non-Toxic Organic Skincare. [online] Available at: https:// global.tataharperskincare.com/ [Accessed 20 May 2019]. The Body Shop. (n.d.). The Body Shop® Nature Inspired Beauty. Never Tested on Animals. [online] Available at: https://www. thebodyshop.com/en-us/ [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Weleda. (n.d.). Frequently Asked Questions. [online] Available at: https://www.weleda.es/footer/ayuda/preguntas-frecuentes/embalaje [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Figure 63: Conclusive and Recommended Model to follow: Created by the author (2019)
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Annex Work Cited: Figure 64: Csorba, L. and Boglea, V. (2011). View of Sustainable cosmetics: a major instrument in protecting the consumer’s interest. [online] Journal.ke.hu. Available at: http://journal.ke.hu/index.php/rbs/article/view/455/949 [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Dayan, N. and Kromidas, L. (2011). Formulating, Packaging, and Marketing of Natural Cosmetic Products. Hoboken: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., pp.3-14. Feng, C. (2016). Sustainable Innovation in the Cosmetic Industry—Obstacles, Contributing Factors, and Strategies. [ebook] Available at: https://conservancy.umn.edu/bitstream/handle/11299/191294/Feng_umn_0130M_17626.pdf?sequence=1 [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Figure 65: Created by the author (2019) Figure 66: Created by the author (2019) Figure 67: Ceit. (2018). Turning waste into cosmetics. [online] Available at: https://www.ceit.es/en/press-room/news-events/8300-turningwaste-into-cosmetics [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Dormon, N. (2016). A New Age of Transparency for Beauty. [online] Beauty Packaging. Available at: https://www.beautypackaging.com/contents/view_online-exclusives/2016-08-25/a-new-age-of-transparency-for-beauty [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Mintel. (2018). MINTEL ANNOUNCES ‘SUB-ZERO WASTE’ AS 2019’S GLOBAL BEAUTY AND PERSONAL CARE TREND. [online] Available at: https://www.mintel.com/press-centre/beauty-and-personal-care/mintel-announces-sub-zero-waste-as-2019sglobal-beauty-and-personal-care-trend [Accessed 20 May 2019]. Figure 68: COSMOS. (n.d.). The COSMOS-standard. [online] Available at: https://cosmos-standard.org/the-cosmos-standard/ [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Cruelty Free International. (n.d.). Alternatives to animal testing. [online] Available at: https://www.crueltyfreeinternational.org/whywe-do-it/alternatives-animal-testing [Accessed 20 May 2019]. ECOCERT STANDARD: Natural and Organic Cosmetics. (2012). [ebook] Ecocert. Available at: http://www.ecocert.com/sites/default/files/u3/Ecocert-Standard/index.pdf [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Fairtrade Foundation. (n.d.). What Fairtrade does. [online] Available at: https://www.fairtrade.org.uk/What-is-Fairtrade/What-Fairtrade-does [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Industries. (n.d.). ECOLOGO Product Certification. [online] Available at: https://industries.ul.com/environment/certificationvalidation-marks/ecologo-product-certification [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Natrue. (n.d.). What makes the NATRUE Label special?. [online] Available at: http://www.natrue.org/information-for/consumers/ what-makes-the-natrue-label-special/ [Accessed 21 May 2019]. PETA. (n.d.). Government-Required Animal Testing: An Overview. [online] Available at: https://www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-experimentation/animals-used-experimentation-factsheets/government-required-animal-testing-overview/ [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Rspo. (n.d.). About Us. [online] Available at: https://rspo.org/about [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Vegan. (n.d.). Certification. [online] Available at: https://vegan.org/certification/ [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Figure 69: Baltz, C. (n.d.). Beauty and Personal Care Product Sustainability Rating System. [online] The Sustainability Consortium. Available at: https://www.sustainabilityconsortium.org/projects/bpc-rating-system/ [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Ewg. (n.d.). Skin Deep® Cosmetics Database. [online] Available at: https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/site/about.php [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Romanowski, P. (n.d.). NGOs and the Cosmetic Industry. [online] Chemists Corner. Available at: https://chemistscorner.com/ ngos-and-the-cosmetic-industry/ [Accessed 21 May 2019]. Sustainable cosmetics summit. (n.d.). About the summit. [online] Available at: http://www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com/Namerica/aboutthesummit.htm [Accessed 21 May 2019]. 96 Mintel. (2018). MINTEL ANNOUNCES ‘SUB-ZERO WASTE’ AS 2019’S GLOBAL BEAUTY AND PERSONAL CARE TREND. [online] Available at: https://www.mintel.com/press-centre/beauty-and-personal-care/mintel-announces-sub-zero-waste-as-2019sglobal-beauty-and-personal-care-trend [Accessed 20 May 2019].
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Annex:
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Figure 64: Additional Literature Review on Consumers’ Perspective on Sustainability
CONSUMERS PERSPECTIVE ON SUSTAINABILITY
What is the Reasoning behind Sustainable Consumers? Dayan and Kromidas (2011) state that the 1960’s were the beginning of green consumers. As environmental books were being released and the civil rights movement was occurring, consumers demanded effective products that were healthier and better for the environment. Organic agriculture was in its infancy. This led to the consumer demand boom of the 70’s and 80’s. Csorba and Boglea (2011) state that the late 1980s and early 1990s created an environmentally concerned consumer, due to the environmental disasters that occurred. The Exxon oil spill, the depletion of the ozone layer, and other indications of threats to the global climate led to the Green consumer. What Does the Future of Sustainable Consumers Appear to Be? Feng (2016) states that sustainable innovation grows through either consumer desire or from the influence of consumers. Rising education levels and the growth and spread of the internet are informing consumers on the current world, faster than ever. As there is an increasing social desire for sustainability, more customers have become more environmentally cautious and recognize their harmful impacts. Due to this, they are questioning corporate ethics by investigating into their carbon footprint, ingredients used, sourcing, and ethical and ecological standards. Customers want to know about the whole process. Despite regulations stance, consumers are forcing action towards regulating sustainable cosmetics. Due to this, Feng believes that sustainable innovation is key in helping cosmetic companies survive in this new market change trend. In terms of cosmetic sustainable innovation, businesses are following four aspects: ethical imperative, regulation trend, technology and companies’ long term growth (Feng, 2016).
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Dayan and Kromidas (2011) believe that with the increasing social trend of consumers attitudes and behavior toward health and wellness, ethical companies will grow and the penetration of natural and organic ingredients will become conventional. Green washers will be outed, activists will grow, and the misrepresentation of natural or organic products will lessen to almost nothing. They also predict government regulation over ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ products and recommend that all cosmetic organizations switch to this field as it is only exponentially growing in awareness and popularity. The authors state that the challenge is to deliver green products without compromising performance. There is difficulty in replacing protective and functioning synthetic ingredients with green ingredients that do not fully replicate synthetic’s purpose. UV protection agent and cationic conditioning agents have no green alternatives. Therefore, the challenge remains with formulators to develop functional, aesthetic, and green products. Not all cosmetic products can be green, as some require protective agents such as sunscreen (Dayan and Kromidas, 2011).
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Figure 65: History of Sustainability Theory
History of Sustainable Theory: Brundtland Report 1987:
“Meet the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs”
Elkington’s Triple Bottom Line Concept 1994: Social, economic, and environmental aspects for business concerns
Strong vs. Weak Sustainability:
Weak sustainability: replenishing an extinct source (e.g coal for wind energy) Strong sustainability: not being able to replenish a source due to its unique & needed value (e.g the ocean)
Transparency
Environment Social 2
1
Economy
Zero-Waste Movement: Concept of leaving no waste. Redesign, reuse, reduce, and recycle.
3
Well-being/Welfare: Sustained happiness and health 3
1
Industrial Civilization:
Mass production, rapidness, constant supply, globalization, reliance on fossil fuels, industrialization
Circular Economy:
Waste and pollution will be designed as intolerable, products and materials will be deemed infinitely reusable, and natural systems will be regenerated
Certified Metrics/ Certifications/Indices:
Cost savings, reduces environmental impacts, transmits transparency Red: Parts included into sustainability, however are detrimental in terms of sustainabilitys’ future goal 2 Orange: Parts included into sustainability, however should be removed as another aspect is more important 3 Red X Lines: Signaling that the aspect(s) connected are not beneficial 1
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Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industries’ Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
Figure 66: Sustainability Management Model
A Conclusive Cosmetic Sustainablility Management Model: Elkington’s Triple Bottom
Green Cosmetics
Line Concept 1994:
Social, economic, and environmental aspects for business concerns
Cruelty FreeNot Tested on Animals
Environment Social Economy
Natural Ingredients
Well-being/ Welfare:
Sustained happiness and health
Gives back to a Cause Supporting Sustainability
Supply Chain Transparency & Ethics Towards Humans
Organic Ingredients
100% Free of Toxins
Circular Economy
Free of Pollutants
Zero-Waste Movement:
Green Packaging:
Biodegrades within 1-2 years Natural & Infinite
Concept of leaving no waste. Redesign, reuse, reduce, and recycle.
Re-duce Re-use
Certified Metrics/ Certifications/ Indices:
Cost savings, reduces environmental impacts, transmits transparency
CSR
Standards
Transparency:
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Re-cycle ISO 14000/1400 Life Cycle Thinking
ERA: Environmental Risk Assesment
LCA: Life Cycle Assesment
EMS: Environmental Management System
Red: Parts included into sustainability, however are detrimental in terms of sustainabilitys’ future goal Orange: Parts included into sustainability, however should be removed as another aspect is more important
Re-design
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
IED 2019
Figure 67: Sample of Indie Cosmetic Brands and Alternative Solutions
“We’re seeing that some indie brands have the upper hand with regard to sustainable beauty as they have built their business practices around ethics and environmentally friendly practices. Larger brands must adopt new practices in order to catch up with these smaller, more nimble competitors (Mintel, 2018). DIY (do it yourself) Cosmetic brands: Encouraging a more collaborative and authentic relationship are DIY beauty brands, which allow users to create their own beauty blends and openly explore each ingredient (Dormon, 2016).
Fresh Non Preservative Cosmetics: Nouri This Danish skin care brand is trying to change the issue with preservatives in cosmetics, with fresh, small batch skin care solutions, which are formulated every 12 weeks. It is their approach to label design that really resonates with the transparency theme. Instead of the standard expiry date, all packaging is stamped with two dates: a startusing-by date and an expiry date—thus highlighting when to use the product if they are to benefit from the formula’s optimum efficacy (Dormon, 2016).
Compostable Materials: Researchers at Ceit-IK4 are working on a project that will convert municipal solid waste and sewage sludge into a compound that can be used in cosmetics, food and bioplastics. The recovered acetic acid can then be used in the food industry (in preservatives and animal feed) and in the chemical industry (bioplastics, cosmetics, etc.) (Ceit, 2018)).
Refillable Cosmetics
Recycled Materials
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Sample of Sustainable Cosmetic Certifications/Standards/Metrics:
Figure 68:
Name:
Certifies that:
The Leaping Bunny (Go Cruelty Free)
The Leaping Bunny certification is the global gold standard for cosmetics, personal care products and household products. It is the only internationally recognised certification that requires a supplier monitoring system to be implemented by the brand, supply chain checking for animal testing right down to ingredient manufacturer level, adherence to a fixed cut-off date policy and acceptance of ongoing independent audits to ensure compliance (Cruelty Free International, n.d.).
EcoCert
Organic farming, Natural and organic cosmetics (Ecocert standard), Natural and organic textiles, Natural detergents and natural detergents made with organic, IFS Food, GLOBALG.A.P., ISO 26000, PEFC, VCS (Verified Carbon Standard) (ECOCERT STANDARD: Natural and Organic Cosmetics, 2012..
PETA: Cruelty Free
Cosmos
EcoLogo
Fairtrade
NaTrue
Vegan
Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil
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Logo:
PETA is persuading world governments, both individually and as part of international organizations such as the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development, to become more involved in developing and using sophisticated animal-free test methods (PETA, n.d.). The COSMOS-standard applies to cosmetic products that are marketed as organic or natural. Its guiding principles are to: promote the use of products from organic agriculture, and respect biodiversity; use natural resources responsibly, and respect the environment; use processing and manufacturing that are clean and respectful of human health and the environment; integrate and develop the concept of “Green Chemistry” (COSMOS, n.d.). ECOLOGO Certified products, services and packaging are certified for reduced environmental impact. ECOLOGO Certifications are voluntary, multi-attribute, lifecycle based environmental certifications that indicate a product has undergone rigorous scientific testing, exhaustive auditing, or both, to prove its compliance with stringent, third-party, environmental performance standards (Industries, n.d.). We independently check that our standards have been met by the farmers, workers and companies that are part of products’ supply chains. And in order to reassure consumers that this has happened, we license the use of the FAIRTRADE Mark on products and packaging to signal this. When all the ingredients that can be Fairtrade in a product are, the product carries this Mark (Fairtrade Foundation, n.d.). NATRUE classified ingredients into three easy-to-understand types depending on the process they have been subjected to: Natural ingredients; Derived natural ingredients; and Nature-identical ingredients. All of them have one essential characteristic: they can be found in nature. Nothing artificial (man-made) is allowed. The biggest enemy of truly Natural and Organic Cosmetics is greenwashing. NATRUE guarantees that at least 75% of all the individual products in a delimited series (identified either by the brand or the sub-brand) must be compliant with the NATRUE standard. They also certify whether a product can be labelled “Natural Cosmetics”, “Natural Cosmetics with Organic Portion” or “Organic Cosmetics” (Natrue, n.d.). The Certified Vegan Logo is a registered trademark, similar in nature to the kosher mark, for products that do not contain animal products or byproducts and that have not been tested on animals (Vegan, n.d.). The RSPO has developed a set of environmental and social criteria which companies must comply with in order to produce Certified Sustainable Palm Oil (CSPO). When they are properly applied, these criteria can help to minimize the negative impact of palm oil cultivation on the environment and communities in palm oil-producing regions (Rspo, n.d.).
By: Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin
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Name: Green Peace
The Environmental Working Group
Skin Deep Database
IED 2019
Sample of Sustainable NGO’s: Logo:
Certifies that: They focus primarily on environmental issues and toxic chemicals. They have targeted the cosmetic industry because of the use of things they consider toxic including Phthalates, artificial fragrance ingredients, and Triclosan. They are more of an International group and one of the most significant impacts they had on the cosmetic industry was their publication of the Cosmetox Guide. This was a booklet that went through and explained all the dangerous chemicals in cosmetics then gave a rating to specific products (Romanowski, n.d.). “This is probably the biggest NGO that has an impact on the cosmetic industry”. The EWG is based in Washington DC and is a NGO dedicated to the mission of protecting human health and the environment. They are an environmental organization that specializes in environmental research and advocacy in the areas of toxic chemicals, agricultural subsidies, public lands, and corporate accountability (Romanowski, n.d.). One of the main ways that the EWG impacts the cosmetic industry is through their Skin Deep database.It is supposed to be a cosmetics safety database which lists ingredients in over 41,000 products against 50 toxicity and regulatory databases. The database is intended as a resource for consumers, who can search by ingredient or product when choosing personal care products. Although, according to the author of this source, it is contains “false information” and “nonsense ratings” (Ewg, n.d.).
David Suzuki Foundation
Their stated mission is to “…protect the diversity of nature and our quality of life, now and for the future” and their vision is “that within a generation, Canadians act on the understanding that we are all interconnected and interdependent with nature.” Their biggest impact on the cosmetic industry was a blog post entitled “The Dirty Dozen Chemicals to Avoid” This article gets tons of traffic and has been tweeted tens of thousands of times. They also encourage people to create their own Homemade cosmetics (Romanowski, n.d.).
Sustainable Cosmetic Summit
The aim of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit is is to encourage sustainability in the beauty industry by bringing together key stake-holders and debate major issues in a high-level forum. Launched in 2009, the summit now takes place in the major geographic regions of the world (Sustainable cosmetics summit, n.d.).
Campaign for Safe Cosmetics
This NGO is dedicated to protecting the health of consumers and workers by securing the corporate, regulatory and legislative reforms necessary to eliminate dangerous chemicals from cosmetics and personal care products. They are dedicated to getting anything they consider “toxic” out of cosmetics. Their main activities are producing reports warning of toxic ingredients in cosmetics (Romanowski, n.d.).
Beauty & Personal Care Product Sustainability Rating System
Global non-profit organizations Forum for the Future (Forum) and The Sustainability Consortium (TSC) are announcing a significant step toward a more sustainable and transparent beauty and personal care product industry. Forum for the Future, along with TSC technical guidance, gathered representatives from across the beauty and personal products supply chain to develop a common assessment tool for evaluating the sustainability of beauty and personal care products, with the goal of simplifying and aligning the wide array of product assessment criteria in use today (Baltz, n.d.).
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Beautiful yet Damaged: Removing the Cosmetic Industriesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Makeup with the Wipe of Sustainability
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