Buying Plan: AllSaints by Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin

ALLSAINTS

B U Y I N G P LAN BY: ALEXANDRA GONZALEZ BALDWIN BA FASHION MARKETING & COMMUNICATION LEVEL 5, 2017-18 5FAMK004C MARKETING TECHNIQUES & STRATEGY 2 CWK3 PROF. ESSI KORHONEN WORD COUNT: 2,757 1

T A B L E O F C O N T E N T S: COMPANY PROFILE--------------------------P. 3 BRAND IDENTITY----------------------------P. 4 STORE ENVIORNMENT---------------------P. 5 CUSTOMER PROFILES----------------------P. 6-9 COMPETITORS--------------------------------P. 10-11 SWOT---------------------------------------------P. 12 WOMEN’S PRODUCTS----------------------P. 13-15 MEN’S PRODUCTS---------------------------P. 16-18 MACRO TRENDS-----------------------------P. 19 SUSTAINABILITY----------------------------P. 20 PRODUCT CATEGORY SELECTED------P. 21 ALLSAINTS & TRENDS--------------------P. 22 A/W 18/19 COLOR TRENDS---------------P. 23 RUNWAY TRENDS A/W 18-----------------P. 24-27 LEATHER TRENDS--------------------------P. 28-29 BUYING PLAN-------------------------------P. 30-45 ANNEX-----------------------------------------P. 46-53 WORK CITED---------------------------------P. 54-57 2

MISSION

AllSaints was founded in London, UK in 1994 by Stuart Trevor and Kair Bolongaro The retailer began as a wholesale menswear brand that sold merchandise exclusively to high-end British retailers such as Harrods and Harvey Nichols. Now, the brand is recognized as a high street fashion brand that creates and sells both men’s and womenswear (Wikipedia, n.d.). AllSaints has continued its success based on its strong brand identity. The brand’s new owner, Lion Capital, has taken a risk by agressively expanding it’s point of sales to many locations globally (Hawkes, 2011). This strategy’s aim is to continue the brand’s success with higher brand recognition and more gross profits.

SCOPE&SIZE

“To create a brand that blends culture, fashion, and music into a potent formula of desirable clothing that expresses individuality and attitude.”

HISTORY

C O M P AN Y P R O F I L E:

(Scribd, n.d.)

AllSaints has “over 3,000 employees across 28 countries(Business of Fashion, n.d.)”. AllSaints curates every aspect of the brand experience in-house, from store design and construction to the global web platform and the collections found in it’s directly operated stores, franchise stores, concessions and outlets (Business of Fashion, n.d.)”. In 2017, All Saints opened 74 stores, taking its total points of sales to 243 locations in 27 countries. Some countries that have opened more AllSaints franchises and concessions, in 2017, were the US and Asia, including Taiwan, South Korea and Japan (Canocchi, 2017). AllSaints main focus has been on Eastern Asia. It was reported that in 2017, the fashion brand had a 9% decrease in earnings due to their expansion and focus on the Japanese market and investment in technology (Express, 2017). The brand also placed its attention on airport retail in South Korea as a way of introducing its brand to Asian travelers, particularly the Chinese. All Saints is interested in expanding in China, as well, as it currently has one of the fastest growing economies. CEO of AllSaints, William Kim, said that “Almost half (47%) of the business’ sales now come from its international operations (Roberts, 2017)”. It also seems that, from research, AllSaints acts carefully when entering a new market; they usually test their success by opening in department stores before opening larger stores.

B R A N D I D E N T I T Y: All Saints identifies themselves as a brand that “blends music and fashion into a potent formula of desirable clothing that expresses individuality and attitude (SUM., n.d.)”. They are known for revolutionizing the modern high street with a wide range of effortless essentials “ inspired by a gritty urban aesthetic (SUM., n.d.)”. A retro-contemporary aesthetic defines the brand throughout their stores, products and communication. It is clothing that expresses attitude. The brand’s color palette is “a simple mix of greys and beiges with the attention being paid to elegant, architectural, sharp edge, clothing and vintage style pieces (London Fashion Review, n.d.)”. “Distressed denims, chunky knits, over-dyed and washed jersey casuals and iconic leathers all work together to create the ultimate rugged worker look for men and the sexy, yet androgynous look for women (London Fashion Review, n.d.)”. They are also known for their iconic ramskull, that is printed on many of their garments. All Saints have paid tribute to the fact that not all women want to be pretty and effeminate – therefore they offer slick masculine silhouettes, cuts and fabrics. This is also shown in their menswear collections.

S T O R E E N V I O R N M E N T:

The AllSaints Store enviornments are recognized for being elaborate and unique. In the first picture a moodboard shows the iconic AllSaints store enviornment. There are Singer sewing machine wall montages, industrial furniture and large light fixtures. This is the style AllSaint’s adapted for for many years, and was said to be dark and heavily decorated. Recently, as AllSaints has been expanding to many foreign countries, they have tested new store styles and will now adapt and change their stores to a more minimalistic and simple store layout. In the second picture a moodboard shows recently opened stores and their new store style. CEO of AllSaints said in an article that the new AllSaints Brompton store in London will be “the first to embrace a brighter more minimalistic design and will act as a benchmark for AllSaint’s future ventures (Premier Construction News, 2017)”.

C U S T O M E R P R O F I L E S: AMBER Age: 28 Occupation: Marketing for a hip coffee shop Likes: Music, art, the beach, road-trips, dogs, coffee shops, breakfast, concerts Shops at: All Saints, Whistles, Topshop, Urban Outfitters

ADAM Age: 26 Occupation: Entrepreneur Likes: fashion, parties, music, eating out, tinder, bars, basketball games, photography Shops at: All Saints, Religion, G-star, Zara

P S Y C O G R A P H:

This psychograph further examines traits cared for and desired in a brand from a targeted consumer segment group of 18-35 year old men and women. This target is considered millenials. Therefore, the qualities looked for by these consumers are based off of millenial research, AllSaintâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brand identity (London Fashion Review, n.d.), as well as a retailer analysis on the brand (Scribd, n.d.). Also, as mentioned in the upcoming page 9, AllSaints customers are not only 18-35 year olds, but 30-45 year olds. As the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s consumers are not only millenials, traits desired from an older consumer group are also added into the psychograph.

Pictured to the right is how All Saints communicates their ideal target, which are free-spirited men and women between the ages of 18-35 years old.

Actual Consumer: Although, those who tag themselves wearing All Saints on Instagram seem to be older and between the ages of: 30-45.

C O M P E T I T O R S: AllSaints does not have any direct competitors; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brand image is strong. Although indirect competitors, who share a similar target and style will always be a threat to the brand. Some competitors that are in the same price range as AllSaints are: Zadig & Voltaire, Religion, French Connection, Sandro, and Rag and Bone. Lower priced competitors are: TopShop, Zara, H&M, and Urban Outfitters. It is said that Barcelonaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s major retailers are: Zara, H&M, Desigual, Adidas, Nike, Chanel, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Dolce & Gabana, Pull & Bear, Massimo Dutti, Intimissisimi, Bershka, Mango, Apple, El Corte Ingles and Replay (Cushman and Wakefield, n.d.). Out of those retailers Zara, H&M, Bershka, Mango, and Replay would be some of All Saints competitors with also COS, Sandro, French Connection, and Urban Outfitters. These new competitors for AllSaints in Barcelona will not be direct competitors but will indirectly compete with the brand as they are main players in the market who target a similar audience and contain either less expensive or same priced products.

P E R C E P T U A L M A P:

Shown on Page 10 is a perceptual map of AllSaint’s main global competitors, while below on Page 11 is a perceptual map of AllSaint’s potential competitors in Barcelona. Both maps are based off of two of AllSaint’s target’s psychograph traits. As AllSaint’s target admire a brand who transmits vintage-edge and follows the latest trends, the brand’s main competitors both globally and in Barcelona are: Urban Outfitters, Zadig & Voltaire, Sandro, TopShop, Bershka and possibly Replay and Religion. The others are more of indirect competitors.

S T R E N G T H S: - Strong brand image - Globally recognized - High quality products - Strong online communication - Modern up to date brand - Strong brand culture - Recent expansion to new countries

W E A K N E S S E S S: - Limited advertisements= limited audience - Overpriced items - Specified style

O P P O R T U N I T I E S: - Further expansion in the US - Expansion in China - Offer lower priced items - More product ranges, i.e: womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s intimate - More sustainably manufactured products i.e: vegan leather - Plus sized options - Add jewelery product range - New advertising strategies -Renovate stores to become more tech/digital savy - Communicating more content of actual consumer group

T H R E A T S: - Rapid changing trends - Competition within the market - Economic trends - Need to maintain the All Saints image

(Hobbs, 2016)

W O M E N ‘ S P R O D U C T S: DRESSES

AllSaints carries 17 categories of women’s products. Currently, womenswear has 487 references with dresses, t-shirts, and shoes & boots in the top 3 of most references (Annex: Figure 1). Their lowest priced women’swear item is either t-shirts or tops & shirts (22 euro) while their most expensive item is leather jackets or coats & jackets (1,895 euro). The average price range for women’swear is 248.12 euros. Succeeding are examples of the brand’s women’swear line.

LEATHER JACKETS

TOPS & SHIRTS

T-SHIRTS

COATS & JACKETS

JEANS

SHORTS

SKIRTS

TROUSERS

LEGGINGS

KNITWEAR

SWIMWEAR

SHOES & BOOTS

TAILORED-GOODS

HANDBAGS

WALLETS

M E N ‘ S P R O D U C T S: T-SHIRTS

AllSaints menswear also has 17 categories. Menswear has less references, 321, with t-shirts, shirts, and leather jackets in the top 3 of most references (Annex: Figure 1. The lowest priced men’s wear item is a t-shirt (25 eur) and their most expensive is a leather jacket (948 eur). It is interesting to point out that the men’s leather jackets are more affordable than the women’s. The average price range of men’swear products is 161.32 euros. Succeeding are examples of the brand’s menswear line.

SHIRTS

LEATHER JACKETS

SHORTS

SWEATSHIRTS

HOODIES

POLOS

COATS & JACKETS

KNITWEAR

JEANS

TROUSERS

TAILORED

SHOES & BOOTS

UNDERWEAR & SOCKS

ACCESSORIES

BAGS

S O C I OCULTURAL

TECHNOLOGICAL

ECONOMIC

M A C R O T R E N D S: Economic macrotrends for 2018/2019 look positive. World gross product (WGP) is forecast to expand at a steady pace of 3.0 per cent in 2018 and 2019. Developing economies will remain the main drivers of global growth. (World Economic Situation and Prospects 2018, 2018). In terms of AllSaints main target, which are millenials, they continue to spend despite the economic recession. It is said that only 20% of millenials reported spending less on apparel, vs. 32 % of non-millenials” (V12Data, 2018).The millenial group is labeled with a “buy now, deal with it later” mantra (V12Data, 2018). Millenials are more likely to make impulse purchases than any other generation. Price is the greatest influence on millenials’ purchase decisions above all other factors, which include quality, brand, store and availability (V12Data, 2018).

Technology is growing faster each year, and in 2018/2019 there will be many new techtrends, Data will be the new “oil” (Wgsn, 2016). AI strategy will be a key driver of growth and innovation for top companies . The fashion industry has already begun to use deep learning algorithms for personalised product recommendations. The demand will continue to grow: a 2016 Sonar study found that 70% of US millennials and 62% of UK millennials would appreciate brands using AI to suggest new products (Wgsn, 2016). Augmented reality and wearable tech will move us into the era of hyper-human (Wgsn, 2016). New forms of digital decorations, alter egos, and augmented spaces will further blur the lines between natural and artificial, physical and digital. Augmented fashion will evolve even more. In apparel, innovations in consturction will see 3D printing and laser-cutting perform digital tailoring on virtual models, leading to an individualised and high tech design direction for luxury, which will also be sustainable. Also, wearable tech will replicate new human sensations, felt by humans in ancient times. Lastly, omnichannel trade and digital-savvy merchandising will be a requirement for success. Store operations and mindsets must change (Danziger, 2017). 2019 will be an era based off emotion (Wgsn, 2016). Therefore designs will be about enducing feelings. People will want to get in touch with the things that touch them both physically and emotionally (sexuality, moods, microbes, and food). The world is clamoring for truth and transparency. People are embracing difference and aim to be heard. Pushing outside of comfort zones and inspiring action will become strong strategies (Wgsn, 2016). The customers are defining the shopping experience. Consumers are spending much of their disposable income online, therefore physical stores will need to entice shoppers back into their stores. In terms of millenials, they are seeking out retailers who care to understand and know their customers instead of simply promoting their next sale. It is also shown that millenials are prepared to make personal sacrifices to make an impact on issued they care about by paying more, sharing rather than buying, or working for a less paying but more responsible company (Fisher, 2018). Sustainability issues will also continue to grow. Using animals as by-products will be increasingly questioned and new alternatives will be developed and more commonly used. Lastly, the idea of culture will become a stronger unifier than one’s country (Wgsn, 2016).

S U S T A I N A B I L I T Y:

AF F E C T I N G LEAT H E R In 2018, more than 12 fashion designers abandoned the use of fur. Some of these designers are Georgio Armani, Gucci, Michael Kors, Vivienne Westwood, Stells McCartney, Versace, and Calvin Klein (Pajda, 2018). Kim Kardashian, one of the most famous influencers, also announced on Twitter that using faux fur is her “new thing” (Nattrass, 2018). People are increasingly becoming aware of the cruel and unsustainable effects of animal agriculture. The animal industry currently “occupies over half of the world’s arable land resources, uses the majority of our freshwater stores, and drives more greenhouse gas emissions than the entire transportation sector combined. Plus, industrialized animal agriculture also causes rampant air and water pollution, land degradation, deforestation and is pushing countless species to the brink of extinction (Pajda, 2018)”. The use of leather, however, has not had as much attention. The process of creating leather is shown to be extremely unsustainable. Leather is also among the major causes of deforestation, as it is a by-product of meat consumption, it corellates to water pollution and much more. Once the skin has been taken from a slaughtered animal, a three-stage process must be performed. After the flesh has been scraped away and the hairs are removed, the skin is tanned to ensure it does not decompose. Next, the skin is then thinned, re-tanned, lubricated, and if required, dyed. This process “uses several chemicals and toxins including ammonia;cyanide-based dyes, formaldehyde; and lead. Some of these products are carcinogenic, and all are enviornmental pollutants, which end up released into the air, ground and water supply (Pajda, 2018)”. As people are increasingly learning more about the unsustainable leather industry, many companies are creating innovative alternatives to animal products. Green Banana Paper, a startup in Micronesia, has created a cruelty-free leather made of banana fiber; Mycoworks, another startup, is in the process of making a leather from mushrooms; and lastly pinneaple is now being used as an alternative (Pajda, 2018). The large and sustainable missioned automotive company Tesla has also adapted the use of leather into all of their automobiles. This action will most likely inspire other manufacturers to switch to 100% vegan leather interiors. Overall, the rise in awareness of using animal by-products is affecting all industries and is becoming a mass concern. Faux leather is becoming preffered by more and is no longer seen by the masses as a less quality or cheaper alternative. Sustainability is on the rise and ditching leather is seeing a near future. (PETA, n.d.)

Pinneaple leather

Fruit waste leather

Classic Polyurethane leather

Apple leather

A U T U M N / W I N T E R ‘18/19 WOMEN‘S LEAT H E R JAC K E T S 6 M O N T H B U Y I N G P LAN

Leather Jackets have been chosen as the selected product group for the buying plan of Autumn/ Winter 2018/19. This product category is selected as AllSaints is “best known for its iconic biker jackets (Crunchbase, n.d.)”. Therefore, a 6 month buying plan will be drawn up based off AllSaints history and macro and microtrends.

A L L S A I N T S & T R E N D S: As a fashion brand, AllSaints follows the latest seasons trends. Although the brand cautiously choses certain trends that will adapt fluidly into their brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s identity, which is known for being high street, gritty and urban. On the AllSaints webpage (AllSaints, 2018) their current Spring/Summer 18 collection, for women, displays both 2018 Pantone colors (Pantone, 2018) and styles (Alexander, 2018) set for the fashion season. Spring/ Summer 18 fashion fashion trends AllSaints adapted are pastel colors, fringing, sheer, and ruffles. As leather jackets will be focused on for the buying plan, they are referenced the most in the pictures below. Fringe

Sheer/Ruffle

Fringe

A / W 18’19 : C O L O R T R E N D S

“Autumnal hues that evoke the feeling of leaves on the forest floor, rich plumage and twilight reveal a modern fall palette of deep and rich tones with outbursts of colorful surprise. With the addition of Pink Peacock and Mellow Rose to the London palette, we see an enhanced feeling of playfulness and a color range whose greater variety offers more opportunity for intriguing color combinations (Pressman, 2018)”

“While there is no ‘typical’ anymore, there remains a need for structure and foundation in everyday fashion. We increased the number of core colors from four to five due to the ease in which they can be implemented, and their ability to cross the seasons. These shades are more crucial than ever, serving as the critical building block as ‘trends’ stay relevant longer, and consumers look to add variety through new textures, fabrics and beautiful combinations (Pressman, 2018)”.

BALENCIAGA

TWEED MIU MIU

CHANEL

GUCCI

S TAT E M E N T H EAD W EAR

GLOSS

TOM FORD

MODESTY DRESSING

ANIMAL PRINT

A / W 18 â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 19 R U N W A Y:

STYLE TRENDS

CHECKS

LUXURY FRINGING

GIVENCHY

LEAT H E R

COWBOY

VERSACE

HOODS GIVENCHY

(Alexander, 2018)

CALVIN KLEIN

MARGIELA

A / W 18 â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 19 R U N W A Y:

LEAT H E R JAC K E T S

A / W 18 ’ 19 L I N E A P E L L E Lineapelle Milan, the most important leather fair in Italy, displays an international trend exhibition of leather, accessories, components, fabrics, synthetics, and models (Lineapelle, 2018). For Autumn/Winter 18/19, “Trendstop editors offered WeConnectFashion an exclusive look at the color, print and texture directions that will be informing leathers for the Fall/Winter 18/19 season (We connect fashion, 2018)”. The three sneak-peaks of A/W 18/19 leather trends are: 1. “Terracotta Dune” bringing a warming, autumn flavour to natural leather products 2. “Laundry Bag Checks” introducing a modern, utility appeal to printed skins 3. “Shredded Suede” illustrates the importance of texture this season, with heavily napped sur faces that combine leather’s tough and rugged qualities with a soft and tactile handle (We connect fashion, 2018)

L E A T H E R S H O W C A S E:

B U Y I N G P L A N: L O C A T I O N: For AllSaints to open a location in Barcelona, the brand will need to locate itself in one of Barcelona’s prime commercial areas, as they normally do (Annex: Figure 8). Based off of research on the Barcelona market, All Saints would best be located on Passeig de Gracia as it is one of Barcelona’s “most famous and elegant shopping street[s] where most of the top international fashion brands are located (Barcelonayellow, 2018)”. Passeig de Gracia is one of the most expensive commercial streets in Barcelona, renting at 255 euros/sqm a month for typically 2,000 sqm (Cushman & Wake eld, n.d.). Renting in this prime yet ‘expensive’ location will fit with the brand’s normal behavior as that estimated rental rate is less than or average to their normal rental fees (Annex: Figure 8). A suiting location for AllSaints in Barcelona would be Calle Passeig de Gracia 69. This is where United Colors of Benetton is currently located. This would be a great location as that location holds 725 m2 (also 7803 sqf) (Santos, 2016 ) which is an average store size compared to others shown in Annex: Figure 8 that range from 2,000-10,000 sqf. Also, the monthly price of the store would be 184,875 euros which is lower than some of All Saints global stores’ rent. Passeig de Gracia holds many of All Saints global competitors such as Zadig and Voltaire, Sandro, Zara, and H& M (Annex: Figure 2). It also would bring new competitors such as COS, Mango, Replay, and Bershka. Although, like most retailers AllSaints does not shy away from its competitors; they usually stay close to them.

H U M A N R E S O U R C E S: AllSaints has approximately 3,200 employees across 27 countries (Gloria Outlets, n.d.) . In the new Barcelona store, with a size of 725 sqm, there will need to be at least nine employees on the staff calendar. There will be one store manager working 40 hours/week, 2 floor managers working 30 hours a week, 2 sales assistants working 25 hours/week, 2 sales assistants working 20 hours/week, and 2 support employees working 9-12 hours/week. The store will be open Monday-Saturday from 10 am- 9 pm. During each shift there will be 3-5 employees on the sales oor with one manager at all times. This depends on the peak hours, which are usually in the midday and afternoon period. Below are the peak times of the store location, on one of the busiest days of the week- Saturday.

W O M E N â&#x20AC;&#x2DC; S L E A T H E R J A C K E T C A T E G O R I E S:

The Biker jacket style is not necessarily a style but represents all leather jackets. Therefore in pages 34-36 it is excluded. There are also many more styles, as shown on pages 36-40.

Although, as seen on page 33, the actual colors of the garments are named differently, and there is not yellow or cream for example.

C U R R E N T L E A T H E R J A C K E T C O L L E C T I O N C O L O R S:

(Allsaints, 2018)

As shown in the chart, the most used color for womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leather jackets is black, accounting for 50% of the collection. Tan brown follows in second with the rest of the colors equally being represented in third. Dark colors, such as black, ink, teal blue, and oxford red represent 59% of the collection while the rest are brighter and more seasonable tones which represent 31%. The Autumn/Winter 18/19 collection will consist of 55% dark and black colors and 45% will be seasonal brighter colors (shown below). ear Re d P

Valiant Quetzal Martini Sargasso Quiet Almond Poppy Green Olive Meerkat Sea Gray Tofu Buff

Blac k

C U R R E N T L E A T H E R J A C K E T C O L L E C T I O N S I Z E S:

As shown in this chart, UK sizes are used more to represent the collection. For UK sizes, UK 2 has the highest references with UK 10 and UK 8 following. In terms of international size metrics, small and large tie with medium following. XS on this EU webpage, for leather jackets, did not exist (Allsaints, 2018).

C U R R E N T L E A T H E R J A C K E T C O L L E C T I O N S T Y L E S:

AllSaints most used fit for Leather Jackets is slim with regular and oversized following.

AllSaints mostly incorporates basic styled leather jackets into their new collections. Quilt, suede, tassel, vintage, and shearling effects follow in chronological order.

A L L S A I N T S C U R R E N T L E A T H E R J A C K E T S T Y L E S:

BALFERN BIKER

“Our best selling Balfern biker jacket is cut in a slim fit, crafted from butter-soft sheep leather that gets more supple with each wear (Allsaints, 2018”.

ANDERSON BIKER

DAHLIA BIKER “A new addition to our renowned Biker Jacket collection for this season (Allsaints, 2018)”.

“The Dahlia Suede Biker Jacket is a minimalist rendition of our signature biker jackets (Allsaints, 2018)”.

LARA BIKER

CARGO BIKER “The Lara Jacket is a reinterpreation of classic biker jackets for the new season (Allsaints, 2018)”.

BEATTIE BIKER

“Part of our signature range of leather jackets, the best selling Cargo biker is crafted in super-soft sheep leather that only gets better with age (Allsaints, 2018)”.

“The Beattie Biker is our more decorated jacket (Allsaints, 2018)”.

DALBY BIKER

“A classic biker with minimal details, the Dalby Biker Jacket features two lower pockets and black shiny poppers (Allsaints, 2018)”.

PAPIN BIKER

BALES BIKER

“Part of our signature range of leather jackets, the slim fitting Papin biker is crafted from super-soft lamb leather that has a supple, buttery texture (Allsaints, 2018)”.

“Our best selling Bales biker jacket stands out with its high funnel collar with double buckle fastenings, keeping out the cold when you need it to (Allsaints, 2018)”.

PRESCOTT BIKER

CONROY BIKER “The Prescott Biker is a refined updated of the classic biker (Allsaints, 2018)”.

KELHAM BIKER

“The best selling Conroy Biker Jacket stands out with its diamond-quilted panels and signature zip detailing (Allsaints, 2018)”.

CALLE BLAZER “Our Kelham Biker Jacket takes inspiration from vintage details such as the quilting and the zip pullers (Allsaints, 2018)”.

“Designed for a slim fit (Allsaints, 2018)”.

H A W L E Y & O V E R S I Z E D “Oversized for a looser fit (Allsaints, BIKER 2018)”.

W O M E N ‘ S “B E S T S E L L E R S”: Shown on pages 40 and 41, are the best sellers of leather jackets as stated on AllSaints online webpage (Allsaints, 2018). These “best sellers” demonstrate how AllSaints consumers appreciate darker colored leather jackets. There are 10 best selling jackets with 7 of them being black, 1 dark grey, 1 light grey, and 1 white/ivory. Also, out of the 10, 2 are Balfern styled. Oversized and Blazer did not make it into the Best sellers. Quilted and suede fabrics account for 2/10 as well. The majority of the Best Sellers are classic black biker jackets. All of these items are also on the lower price range of this category.

OVERALL CAL C U LAT I O N & B U Y I N G P L A N : A/W 18/19

These numbers are based off figures shown on pages 30 and 31 as well as general assumptions based off the scope and size of the brand. In the following pages, numbers were taken from an analysis of the brands past collection as well as future trends. Also sustainable leather or a sustainable leather option will be suggested for the brand , however will not be shown in the A/W 18/19 collection.

(Allsaints, n.d.) (Belstaff, n.d.)

ANNEX Figure 1: Marketing Mix

(Allsaints, 2018)

It is interesting to point out, in terms of All Saint’s promotion, that they do not believe in tradi- tional seasonal campaigns. In an article by The Drum, creative director of All Saints said that “We have more than one million people engaging with the brand every week so the formality and the rigid structure of a quarterly campaign doesn’t necessarily connect to the way that we want to express ourselves (Mortimer, 2014)”. Instead, they prefer to create and share daily just as they operate and function daily.

Figure 2: Main retailers & Services: Passeig de Gracia stretches for 1.3 km through the central Example district and is “home to some of the Catalan capital’s most celebrated architectural delights, as well as prestigious luxury stores, five-star hotels and must-visit restaurants (Muxworthy, 2017)”. It is the chosen location for many flagship stores such as “Zara, Mango, Apple or H&M together with luxury brands such as Gucci, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Cartier and Ermenegildo Zegna (Cushman & Wakefield, n.d.)”. The street also includes Casa Batllo and La Pedrera, two of Gaudi’s most visited buildings in Barcelona. Due to the high touristic appeal, many high-end hotels and tapa restaurants are also situated on the street.

Figure 3: Main commercial areas in Barcelona Barcelona is Spain’s second largest city and the capital of Catalonia, the country’s most visited province. The city holds a prosperous economic centre. It is named Europe’s fourth best city for business. Barcelona is one of Europe’s favorite tourist destinations. It ranks 12th most visited city in the world. The city is known for its vibrancy, architecture, nightlife, museums, galleries, and beaches. Barcelona’s main shopping zones are “Portal de l’Angel, La Rambla, Plaza de Cataluña, the top of El Raval, Paseo de Gracia, and Rambla de Cataluña (Langeasy.com, n.d.)". Barcelona’s main malls are Maremagnum, Las Arenas, Diagonal Mar, La Maquinista, L’illa Diagonal, Glories, and Gran Via 2 (Langeasy.com, n.d.).

Figure 6: Pedestrian Flows From the European top 30, produced by the BNP Estate, Spain ranks third in having a top pedestrian commercial street. Barcelona ranks second highest city in Spain, after Madrid, with most footfall. Avenida del Portal de Angel stands at number 6 with 10,216 pedestrians an hour while Passeig de Gracia stands at number 7 with 10,132 (Tavares, 2017).

Figure 7: Retail Rental Rates The most expensive areas to rent in Barcelona are (from highest to lowest): Portal de lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Angel, Passeig de Gracia, Portaferrissa, Pelai, Rambla Catalunya, and Diagonal (Cushman & Wakefield, n.d.). Passeig de Gracia ranks second highest and rents at 255 euros/sqm a month for typically 2,000 sqm. It is ranked second as it consists of only the best mass market, high end, and luxury stores. Due to its attractive retailers, services, and architectural points it has high tourism activity (Cushman & Wakefield, n.d.)

Figure 8: All Saints Prime Global Locations

(Cushman & Wakefield, n.d.) 53

WORK CITED Alexander, E. (2018). 10 spring/summer 2018 fashion trends to start wearing now. [online] Harper's BAZAAR. Available at: https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/shows-trends/g38445/ spring-summer-2018-fashion-trends/?slide=6 [Accessed 17 May 2018]. AllSaints. (2018). ALLSAINTS US: Women's New Arrivals. [online] Available at: https://www. us.allsaints.com/women/new/ [Accessed 17 May 2018]. Barcelonayellow. (2018). Passeig de Gracia - Paseo de Gracia street Barcelona. [online] Available at: https://www.barcelonayellow.com/bcn-shopping/451-passeig-de-gracia [Accessed 18 Apr. 2018]. Business of Fashion. (n.d.). AllSaints. [online] Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/ community/companies/allsaints [Accessed 1 May 2018]. Canocchi, C. (2017). AllSaints is in fashion with 20% rise in sales but retailer blames costs of Japanese launch for decline in pro ts. [online] This is Money. Available at: http://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/ markets/article-5031223/AllSaints-fashion-20-rise-sales.html [Accessed 2 Apr. 2018]. Crunchbase. (n.d.). ALLSAINTS. [online] Available at: https://www.crunchbase.com/organization/allsaints#section-overview [Accessed 17 May 2018]. Cushman & Wakefield. (n.d.). Barcelona. [online] Available at: http://cwglobalretailguide.com/ barcelona/ [Accessed 1 Apr. 2018]. Danziger, P. (2017). Top Shopping Trends Of 2018: Retail Experts Share What To Watch For Next Year. [online] Forbes. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/forbes/welcome/?toURL=https://www. forbes.com/sites/pamdanziger/2017/12/27/retail-shopping-predictions-2018/&refURL=https:// www.google.es/&referrer=https://www.google.es/ [Accessed 14 May 2018]. Express. (2017). AllSaints fashion boosted as international expansion sees annual sales jump. [online] Available at: https://www.express.co.uk/ nance/city/873090/AllSaints-boosted-international-expansion-annual-sales-jump [Accessed 2 Apr. 2018]. Fisher, D. (2018). THE MILLENNIAL CONSUMER: A DRIVING FORCE FOR CORPORATE SUSTAINABILITY. [online] Ecosphere. Available at: https://www.ecosphere.plus/blog/millennial-consumer-driving-force-corporate-sustainability/ [Accessed 20 May 2018]. Gloria Outlets. (n.d.). All Saints. [online] Available at: https://www.gloriaoutlets.com/eng/brand_ content/173/?location=i-800 [Accessed 16 Apr. 2018].

Hawkes, A. (2011). All Saints saved by Lion Capital. [online] the Guardian. Available at: https:// www.theguardian.com/business/2011/may/05/fashion-chain-all-saints-bought-by-lion-capital [Accessed 1 May 2018].

Hobbs, M. (2016). 1st YEAR. AllSaints - Marketing and Communications Plan. [online] Issuu. Available at: https://issuu.com/millyhobbs/docs/allsaints_report__1_ [Accessed 1 Apr. 2018]. Langeasy.com. (n.d.). Barcelona - Main Shopping Zone and Commercial Centers in Barcelona. [online] Available at: http://www.langeasy.com/cities/bcn/bcnshopping.html [Accessed 1 Apr. 2018]. London Fashion Review. (n.d.). All Saints Fashion – Clothing, Accessories, Jewellery & Footwear. [online] Available at: http://www.fashionreview.co.uk/all-saints-fashion/ [Accessed 2 May 2018]. Mortimer, N. (2016). How AllSaints is shifting its strategy to focus on products. [online] The Drum. Available at: http://www.thedrum.com/news/2016/05/24/how-allsaints-shifting-its-strategy-focus-products [Accessed 13 Apr. 2018]. Muxworthy, K. (2017). The best things to eat, see and buy on Barcelona’s Passeig de Gracia. [online] Global Blue. Available at: http://www.globalblue.com/destinations/spain/barcelona/thingsto-eat-see-buy- barcelona-passeig-de-gracia [Accessed 3 Apr. 2018]. Nattrass, J. (2018). Kim Kardashian ditching fur from wardrobe and embracing ethical fabrics | Metro News. [online] Metro. Available at: https://metro.co.uk/2018/05/05/kim-kardashian-ditching-fur-wardrobe-just-not-thing-anymore-7523952/?ito=cbshare [Accessed 16 May 2018]. Scribd. (n.d.). Major Retailer Analysis: All Saints. [online] Available at: https://www.scribd.com/ doc/216042769/Major-Retailer-Analysis-All-Saints [Accessed 1 May 2018]. Pajda, A. (2018). Dozens of Fashion Houses Are Ditching Fur – Let’s Get Dolce & Gabbana to Join!. [online] One Green Planet. Available at: https://www.onegreenplanet.org/news/get-dolcegabbana-to-ditch-fur/ [Accessed 14 May 2018]. Pantone. (2018). Pantone Color of the Year 2018 Tools for Designers. [online] Available at: https://www.pantone.com/color-of-the-year-2018-tools-for-designers [Accessed 15 May 2018]. PETA. (n.d.). From Apples to Kombucha Tea: See the Ingenious Way Designers Are Making Vegan Leather. [online] Available at: https://www.peta.org/living/personal-care-fashion/vegan-leather-chic-sustainable-and-fruity/ [Accessed 16 May 2018]. Premier Construction News. (2017). AllSaints Brompton Store. [online] Available at: http://premiercon- structionnews.com/2017/11/03/allsaints-brompton-store/ [Accessed 9 Apr. 2018]. Roberts, L. (2017). AllSaints sales up 20% as it continues Asia expansion. [online] The Industry. Avail- able at: https://www.theindustry.fashion/allsaints-sales-20-continues-asia-expansion/ [Accessed 3 Apr. 2018]. 55

Santos, D. (2016). Benetton abrirĂĄ una macrotienda en la Rambla Catalunya de Barcelona. [online] FashionUnited. Available at: https://fashionunited.es/noticias/retail/benetton-abrira-una-macrotienda-en-la-rambla-catalunya-de-barcelona/2016112523233 [Accessed 9 Apr. 2018]. SUM. (n.d.). Allsaints Marketing & Brand Identity. [online] Available at: http://www.sumdesign. co.uk/allsaints/ [Accessed 2 May 2018]. Tavares, A. (2017). Spanish cities head the list of the busiest retail streets in Europe. [online] Iberian. property. Available at: https://iberian.property/news/spanish-cities-head-the-list-of-the-busiest-retail/ [Ac- cessed 2 Apr. 2018]. V12Data. (2018). Retail for the Millennials â&#x20AC;&#x201C; How Do They Purchase and What Do They Really Want?. [online] Available at: http://www.v12data.com/blog/retail-millennials-how-do-they-purchase-and-what-do-they-really-want/ [Accessed 2 May 2018]. Wikipedia. (n.d.). AllSaints. [online] Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AllSaints [Accessed 1 May 2018]. Wgsn. (2016). The Vision A/W 18/19: HumaNature. [online] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/ content/board_viewer/#/69129/page/2 [Accessed 20 May 2018]. Wgsn. (2016). The Vision A/W 18/19: Dark Wonder. [online] Available at: https://www.wgsn. com/content/board_viewer/#/68882/page/1 [Accessed 20 May 2018]. World Economic Situation and Prospects 2018. (2018). [ebook] United Nations, p.vii, 2. Available at: https://www.un.org/development/desa/dpad/wp-content/uploads/sites/45/publication/ WESP2018_Full_Web-1.pdf [Accessed 28 May 2018].