Sustainable Branding Project: Stella McCartney

Branding Research project (group)

by Aleksandra Pavlova, Alexandra Gonzalez, Alice Zanotti Christina Thordal Andreasen, Margret Lea Haraldsdottir

BA Fashion Marketing and Communication, Level 6 6FAMK002C, International Branding and Sustainability 2018 - 2019 Coursework 1 Alejandro Gonzรกlez Word count: 2392

CONTENTS INTRODUCTION CHOICE OF BRAND AND RELEVANCE LITERATURE REVIEW INTERNAL BRAND ANALYSIS - BACKGROUND AND HERITAGE - THE 4 ACTION FRAMEWORK - BRAND TIMELINE - BRAND MISSION - BRAND VALUES - MARKETING MIX - TARGET DESCRIPTION - TARGET SEGMENTATION - CUSTOMER PROFILES - COMPETITORS - POSITIONING - MAIN COMPETITORS ANALYSIS - SEGMENTATION PYRAMID

EXTERNAL BRAND ANALYSIS - PESTLE - EXPANSION STRATEGIES - MARKET AND ENVIRONMENT ANALYSIS - BRAND ANALYSIS

STRATEGY

- SHOP OBSERVATION - STORE ANALYSIS - DIGITAL BRAND COMMUNICATION - OFFLINE BRAND COMMUNCATION - TONE OF VOICE - EMOTIONAL MARKETING - THE AIDA MODEL - CONCLUSION

ANNEX BIBLIOGRAPHY

P3 P4 P5 P6 P6 P7 P8 P9 P 10 P 11 P 12 P 13 P 15 P 17 P 18 P 19 P 22 P 23 P 23 P 24 P 25 P 29 P 31 P 31 P 33 P 37 P 41 P 43 P 44 P 46 P 47 P 49 P 65

INTRODUCTION

The rising threat of global climate change significantly influences modern day business. Due to this, current and future companies are by 2018 are facing socio -cultural requirements of further embracing sustainable and transparent business solutions. The industry and current state of consumption is rising to this challenge. However, is this environmentally conscious approach a real industry statement or purely a selling point? In addition, what does it mean for a luxury fashion brand such as Stella McCartney, in terms of it’s current market position and unique approach to branding, if more competitors adopt this business mindset? Similarly, would a further international expansion of the brand in the BRIC countries and increased focus on Millennials create a risk for the already existing values of the brand or make it a complementary decision with a long-term success?

Stella 3

CHOICE OF BRAND AND RELEVANCE

The British founded luxury fashion brand Stella McCartney is chosen for this project as it highly represents the rising industry’s adoption of brands gradually embracing the strategic opportunity for growth within a more environmentally conscious market. Additionally, Stella McCartney, being an industry frontrunner has turned its British take on modern femininity, environmental responsibility, and tailoring into a global brand. The brand allows itself to operate in symbiosis with socio-cultural demands and in advance of its competitors influencing both industry and consumer behaviour through an authentic and coherent omni-channel business model. However, it is of high relevance for the current state of consumption to analyse what kind of values motivate consumers and companies to adopt further socially and environmentally conscious actions in the fashion sector. It is also important to understand how the values can be branded in order to meet global economic, technological and industry-related changes, which in addition correlate with constant consumer shifts.

McCartney 4

METHODOLOYGY 5

LITERATIRE REVIEW The following report examines the industry’s leading female designer and sustainability frontrunner, Stella McCartney, in the context of strategic international branding and sustainability. In order to conduct the following study of Stella McCartney, primary and secondary research has been gathered to assist in analysing the current business strategy of the brand.

The groundwork will be used to identify the potential opportunities and threats of the brand to pursue its selective retail expansion to align with the brand values (Kering, 2017).

Theory and models applied to the brand research include a version of the Ethical Sphere model (Arnold, 2009, p.158), comparing the brand values to the actual brand actions in order to understand if the environmentally-conscious approach is a real industry statement or purely a selling point for the high-end luxury brand. Additionally, Stella McCartney is evaluated through the Luxury Segment Pyramid (Corbellini and Saviolo, 2009, p113) to analyse the brand positioning in the market according to main brand attributes.

The Four Action Framework of The Blue Ocean Strategy (Kim and Mauborgne, 2015, p.37) is applied to the brand to further explain how Stella McCartney is an industry front runner in a blue ocean market space. This method is prioritised over Porter’s Five Forces (Porter, 2008, pp.78-93)

as it argues that Stella McCartney redefined the terms of competition by entering

blue waters, making competition irrelevant, while in Porter’s model, the brand promotes crude competition, remaining in red waters.

In order to understand the branding of the high-end luxury fashion brand, the brand communication is analysed through offline and online channels giving emphasis to the execution of storytelling and communication of brand values. The AIDA model (Elmo Lewis, 1898, cited in Young, B.M., 2018, p. 114)

is complementary to this study of brand communication in order to

evaluate the advertising messages and effectiveness of campaigns.

- BACKGROUND AND HERITAGE The luxury brand has been pioneering the fashion industry as an early adopter of responsible business solutions since its launch in 2001. Stella McCartney was founded as a fifty/fifty joint venture in partnership with the international luxury group Kering and launched its first collection October 2001 in Paris. However, both parties split in 2018 leaving Stella McCartney to be a predominantly independent brand.

The brand constructs a coherent omnichannel business model by operating in an environmentally conscious approach and also holds themselves responsible for their impact. Stella McCartney is therefore relentlessly searching for innovative and sustainable methods to improve the existing supply chain from design to product manufacturing and store practices. This approach has since its early beginnings, positioned the brand in a blue ocean market space and has as an industry trailblaser for the luxury fashion industry reconstructed consumer value elements in crafting a new value curve (See Four Action Framework, Blue Ocean Strategy, p 7).

Since the launch of the brand, Stella McCartney has accelerated its retail expansion.

Today the brand operates 51 freestanding independent stores in 77 countries, with 863 separate locations, including corners in department stores. Additionally, they operate efficiently online, with shipping internationally to over 100 countries (Stella McCartney, Timeline, n.d.). The brand portfolio includes women’s and men’s ready-to-

wear collections, accessories, lingerie, eyewear, fragrance and a kids collection.

RESEARCH

INTERNAL BRAND ANALYSIS

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- THE 4 ACTION FRAMEWORK OF THE BLUE OCEAN STRATEGY Down below is a version of the 4 Action Framework model applied to the brand Stella McCartney:

Figure: (1) Four Actions Framework, Blue Ocean Strategy (Kim and Maubourge, 2015)

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- BRAND TIMELINE The timeline below gives emphasis to key events related to the brand:

Figure: (2) Historical Timeline (Stella McCartney, Timeline, n.d.)

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- BRAND MISSION

“We are agents of change. We challenge and push boundaries to make luxurious products in a way that is fit for the world we live in today and the future: beautiful and sustainable.

No compromises.”

(Stella McCartney, n.d.)

The mission statement of Stella McCartney communicates a committed willingness to change according to the current and future social and environmental challenges that consumerism is facing in 2018. It advocates for improving the world and the fashion industry as a whole step by step using the resources available to support that change. Another major part of the brand’s philosophy is to provide people with an example that high fashion can also be created in a sustainable way, setting the bar high for the future of the fashion industry. Thus, the brand has been achieving great heights economically, with constant expansion and gaining global recognition for their respectable contribution.

Figure: (3) “Stella’s World” (Stella McCartney, n.d)

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- BRAND VALUES

Figure: (4) Stella McCartney’s Ethical Sphere Model (Arnold, 2009)

The model above portrays the Ethical Sphere of Stella McCartney, gives emphasis to the core values of the brand and how they relate to the actual brand actions. This helps to understand the brand values and analyse if the environmentally conscious approach of Stella McCartney is a real statement and not purely a marketing tactic. According to Stella McCartney’s 2016 Environmental Profit and Loss Account, the business has been growing steadily since 2013 to which the environmental impact per kg. of material used has decreased 37% since 2013, as a result to whcih the business decisions the brand has made were about the materials they use and how they source them (Stella McCartney, 2016). For that reason, it can be argued that the environmentally-conscious approach of Stella McCartney is a real industry statement and not only a selling point. However, the unsaturated market for sustainable luxury fashion provides the brand with a highly powerful competitive advantage in distributing their products.

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- MARKETING MIX

“I approach the business in a way that is morally correct and modern. It doesn’t mean that style and luxury need to be sacrificed” (Chen, V., 2017)

PRODUCT The brand offers a wide product portfolio developed in different categories: Women’s, Men’s, Girl’s, Boy’s and Baby’s. In each category it is possible to purchase ready-to-wear, accessories and shoes.

PRICE The price range goes from 22€ for a woman’s fragrance to 1.995€ in the section men’s outerwear (Stella McCartney, Menswear, n.d.). The prices for children collections are between 30€ and 360€ (Stella McCartney, Baby, n.d.).

PROMOTION Stella McCartney has developed its advertising strategy through both online and offline channels including actions such as: product placement, sponsorships, co-branding and direct marketing. Furthermore, they promote themselves through PR and Personal selling.

DISTRIBUTION The brand, nowadays, owns 863 locations worldwide (Stella McCartney, Store Locator, n.d.). The e-commerce has been growing exponentially in the past years, although the online and offline offer is not the same. The brand is moving towards an omni-channel approach.

For a detailed Marketing Mix Analysis refer to Figure (17) in the Annex.

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- TAREGET DESCRIPTION

Stella McCartney provides sustainable apparel for all ages through Kid’s, Baby’s, Women’s and Men’s collections and targets customers with high level income, who can afford the high-quality, sustainable, and fashion forward garments. Furthermore, the target of Stella McCartney seems to be divided into two customer groups, where the smaller (but growing part of the target) is buying Stella McCartney due to the style & sustainability of the products, makes up for a highly loyal customer group, while a significantly larger target group is buying the products due to style & luxury market recognition/liking of luxury products/trend following.

Through research, it appears that Stella McCartney’s target age are men and mostly women throughout the ages of 25-45 years old, in which the most responsive age group for sustainability are young adults/Millennials (BSD Global, n.d.). Women, are a primary target for the brand as they

account for 85% of retail purchases (Roth, 2009). Additionally, research

has shown that mothers are further likely to buy and act more sustainably in everyday consumption, including buying locally grown organic foods and automobiles with lower emissions as they are highly considerate of their future generations (Roth, 2009).

“Now 40 years old, she has developed a witty, down-toearth approach to dressing women like her: well-to-do, yes, but working women with lives of responsibility and complexity, women who have more use for a wellcut pantsuit for work or a roomy knit jumpsuit for hanging out with girlfriends than they do for a floorlength gown. McCartney is one of the very few designers, male or female, who make clothes for all hours of the day and not just the evening.”

(Horyn, 2012)

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- TAREGET SEGMENTATION MARKET SEGMENTATION

With core business in sustainable luxury fashion of classic, timeless and high-quality apparel. Differentiation oriented strategy being a trailblaser for sustainable luxury fashion.

TARGET ANALYSIS

Leaving aside the men’s and kids collection, the following analysis focuses on the main line (women’s wear) of Stella McCartney.

Brand’s statement on target audience:

“We’re providing these [sustainable fashion] solutions for mindful and responsible women consumers that are also modern and chic, so we need to provide that for our male consumers too. (...) [My clothes] are subtle and chic but, at the same time, they make a good statement” (Chen, 2017)

With the above quote, Stella McCartney gives emphasis to a matureness and consciousness integrated within her target. Stating this, she additionally sets herself as the target customer, describing that effortless chic is not only how she carries herself, but also what she wishes to pass on and appeal to her target audience. It is furthermore the emotional connection and personal relation to target, that since 2001 has won her a substantial fashion following (Chen, 2017) .

However, according to the company’s expansion strategy, the brand has been focusing on giving further emphasis to targeting a millennial audience by the beginning of 2018. Thus, Stella McCartney is primarily targeting Generation X (Baby Boomers) and secondarily targeting Generation Y (Millennials) (Kering, 2017).

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1. DEMOGRAPHICS Stella McCartney predominantly targets women of Generation X and Generation Y (respectively born from 1966-1976 and 19771994), with high income levels with solid economic flexibility and middle to high education levels who live in or close to Metropolitan areas (Mainly in US and UK).

2. PSYCHOGRAPHICS The psychographic analysis (including AdHoc research) of Stella McCartney’s target shows that the interests of the target is drawn more to apparel and fashion than sustainability. However, the environmental consciousness is a bonus, despite this attribute not being the pure reason of sale.

3. BEHAVIOURAL In line with Stella McCartney’s expansion strategy increasingly focusing on a millenial target audience, the following analysis of online and offline target behaviour will give emphasis to Millennials.

3.1 ONLINE BEHAVIOUR

3.1 OFFLINE BEHAVIOUR

Millennials are the segment that accounts for the highest share of online apparel revenue (Stanton, 2017)

Desire to be part of firsthand experiences (Kestenbaum, 2017).

(For a further analysis of the Target Segmentation refer to Figure 19 in the Annex)

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- CUSTOMER PROFILES NAME : Mimi Ikonn GENDER: Female AGE: 32 LOCATION: London OCCUPATION: Social influencer SHOPS AT: Anthropologie, Selfridges, Whistles, & Other Stories INCOME: 180,000€ per year CHARACTERISTICS: Sophisticated, Modern and Responsible PERSONAL STYLE: Feminine, Classy and Comfortable.

Fashion forward with modern aesthetics SOCIAL MEDIA: Instagram & Youtube (also as a source of income) NEEDS She has always loved fashion and needs to feel stylish. She cares for the environment and animals and therefore feels the need and desire to use sustainable products. She loves feeling healthy and needs fruits, vegetables, and yoga for example in her daily life. In addition, she needs to feel a positive response from her Youtube community. She needs to feel respected and appreciated not only with her efforts but also from a brand that she supports. She also likes to travel with family.

CONCERNS She is concerned about the future state of this world. She worries about pollution, inequality, cruelty, and racism.

FRUSTRATIONS Mimi is frustrated with the injustices of the world. She is frustrated with people who don’t care or care not to open their eyes to what is happening in the world. She also does not like poorly made, wasteful, and nonhealthy items or choices.

POSITIVE TRENDS She is a supporter of the current social trends concerning world peace, is vegetarian, advocates for empowerment of gender fluidity, diversity, homosexuality, gender roles, cultural differences and body embracement. She would happily join protests, yet she channels her voice onto her platform on social media, mostly Youtube and Instagram.

BEHAVIOR Mimi is open, polite and caring. She loves sharing her favorite products with her friends, family and online community. When shopping, she looks for organic, natural and sustainably made products. She doesn’t care as much about the price but more about its value. She is loyal both to her friends, family and brands in which she respects. She looks for products that are long lasting and made well.

HOPES She hopes for a more socially concerned world structure in terms of a more environmental and social conscious approach to life. She also hopes her online career can be maintained and offer more opportunities.

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NAME : John Gale GENDER: Male AGE: 24 LOCATION: Singapore OCCUPATION: Engineer SHOPS AT: COS, Asos, Tommy Hilfiger, Gucci, Calvin Klein INCOME: 105,000â‚Ź per year CHARACTERISTICS: Goal orientated, Independent, Clean-Cut, Caring PERSONAL STYLE: Minimalistic, Fashion forward, Edgy SOCIAL MEDIA: Facebook, Instagram, and Snapchat NEEDS John wants to feel stylish, attractive and powerful. He wants to dress appropriately for his position as a young wealthy engineer. Therefore, the products he purchases need to be high quality, trendy, and respected. Stella McCartney is a brand he supports as they fulfill his need for long-lasting, professional, and stylish suit pieces and outerwear. As John is single, he also wants to attract educated, caring, and upper-class women who also like Stella McCartney. He also feels the need to show off his status with a nice car, home, and overall lifestyle.

CONCERNS John is concerned about sustainability issues both in workplace and the world. He wants his business and the world to thrive. He is concerned about losing his position, attraction, and status.

FRUSTRATIONS As a millenial, he is not very patient and does not like to wait. He gets frustrated by confusing, slow, and non-modern service. As a busy entrepreneur, he wants his shopping experience to be easy, quick, and to the point.

POSITIVE TRENDS John follows the trends of recycling, buying organic, and supports the LGBT community. He is open to purchasing items that support good causes.

BEHAVIOR John is a hard working, serious, yet caring individual who likes to spend time with his friends and family apart from his work life. He surrounds himself with successful, artistic, and trendy people. Him and his circle like to talk about new products they have bought and like to show off their high quality purchases.

HOPES He hopes to maintain his already successful career, money, and status. He also hopes people become more aware of bad habits that contribute to an unsustainable world.

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- COMPETITORS Stella McCartney is considered the trailblaser in sustainable luxury fashion, as the brand is inspiring and driving the industry to turn to a sustainable solutions through new technological developed innovations. Stella McCartney has changed the fur industry with the use of fur-free-fur and is influencing to other competitors to do the same, due to growing customer demand. These factors as well as others are all giving competitive advantage to others (Author unknown, 15 seriously luxuriously sustainable fashion brands you need to know, n.d).

The main identified competitors are Mother Of Pearl, Burberry and Gucci. These are the brands that are at a equal level as Stella McCartney in terms of price point and some level of sustainability. With that being said, these competitors are increasing their sustainability actions step by step.

Stella McCartney can be identified within these three positioning strategies: quality, problem and solution, and value or price positioning. Primarily, it is positioning by quality, due to the brand’s focus on high-quality materials as well as quality productions. Secondly, problem and solution positioning, since they are frontrunners in the sustainable industry and develop new innovations in order to find new solutions to improve their work efforts. Finally, the value or price positioning, since Stella McCartney’s main goal is being valued and still positioned as a luxury or highly valued brand. The innovative tactics of Stella McCartney have assisted the brand in establishing a strong market presence engaged in sustainability as a method of differentiation, which provides the brand with a competitive advantage of being trailblasers for sustainable luxury fashion, as Stella McCartney additionally notes in an interview with The South China Morning Post in 2017:

“We’re providing these [sustainable fashion] solutions for mindful and responsible women consumers that are also modern and chic, so we need to provide that for our male consumers too. Nobody is delivering that in a luxurious way and that’s one thing that really inspires me to do menswear.”

(Chen, 2017).

Her competitive advantage has moreover led the way for McCartney to influence a string of mainstream brands such as Adidas and H&M through collaborations. Respectively, in 2004 and 2005 both collaborators started adopting further sustainable and eco-conscious business models.

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- POSITIONING The Positioning Map down below (Figure 5) considers the major competitors of Stella McCartney in terms of Level of sustainibility and the Price Point of each of the brands:

For a detailed Competitors Analysis refer to Figure (15) in the Annex.

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- MAIN COMPETITORS ANALYSIS

1.

STRENGTHS • High engagement between Amy Powney, creative director of Mother of pearl, and the sustainable industry and lifestyle (Finnigan, 2018).

• Products available both online and offline in many different platforms and multi brand stores (Mother of Pearl, n.d.).

• The collections are created with a transparent supply chain, organic natural materials, social responsibility, respect to animals, a low carbon footprint and great quality (Mother of Pearl, n.d.).

• The brand’s style is sporty, girlie and granny, it’s serious fashion not to be worn too seriously (Cronin, 2017). She kept the same aesthetic for more than 10 years without being influenced by seasonal trends.

• Strong brand values such as individuality and authenticity that are expressed through a high recognition in terms of style (Mother of Pearl, n.d.).

• Powney (2017) states that, thanks to the uses of color and princes, the brand has high awareness in the Middle East market (Morgan, 2017).

• The brand has chosen to use natural fibers (wool, silk and cotton) because they do not release chemicals into the atmosphere and the garments will biodegrade much faster (Mother of Pearl, n.d.).

• No Frills line is a collection that boasts a traced supply chain from cotton fields and sheep farms to packaging and worker welfare in order to be 100% sustainable (Mother of Pearl, n.d.).

• The brand is adopting the consumer-friendly see-now-buy-now approach to showing new collections (Neel, 2016).

WEAKNESSES • Newborn and small brand with low awareness in most of the countries.

• Only 30-40 percent of the total 70- piece range is available on the brand’s e-commerce because the company cannot support the financial commitment to stock all the collection (Neel, 2016).

OPPORTUNITIES • Growth in the sustainable luxury market.

• Creation of a menswear line.

• Development of sustainable and innovative fabrics that the brand can use.

• Improve their communication toward raise in awareness.

• Expend their POS, by opening DOS (directly operated stores).

THREATS • Entrance of sustainable brands in the mass market that are more competitive in terms of prices.

• Major competitors such as Stella McCartney and Gucci, which have more awareness than Mother of Pearl.

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2.

STRENGTHS • Strong international presence with more than 500 stores in 2017; the majority of them are located it UK, US, Japan and in some emerging markets (Statista, 2018).

• In “The World’s Most Valuable Brand List” by Forbes, Gucci ranks 36th and 3rd in the luxury industry (Forbes, 2018). According to this data, the brand has high brand equity.

• The brand has a wide product portfolio that comprises accessories, apparels for men and women and clothing.

• Kering said that in the first quarter of 2018 Gucci’s sales in North America, mainly in US, are raising 64%. The brand was successful among locals and tourists in department store, retail and online (Dalton, 2018).

• The brand is involved in sustainability and, through its website, it states its intention in creating a business plan that would have a positive environmental and social impact (Gucci, 2016).

• Engagement on social media.

• Gucci is one of 330 brands that are Angora-free (Feitelberg, 2018).

WEAKNESSES • High Price range - millennials are feeling more confident about their personal profits and therefore purchase on Luxury products are increasing.

• Sales by nations - Comes mainly from China and America, were together covers more than half of luxury sales while Europe has only 19% of the total 100% (Papuc, 2018).

• The brand just lately embraced sustainable fashion.

OPPORTUNITIES • Artificial Intelligence method to scan if a product is fake or real (Kendrick, 2018).

• Innovate new sustainable materials and production methods for their products.

THREATS • Counterfeit products are getting harder to recognise and they are everywhere (Mau, 2018).

• Strong competitors, in terms of price and level of luxury.

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3.

STRENGTHS • Burberry has always been out-in-front when it comes to digital innovation. Since 2006, the company has shifted its mindset to incorporate social media, AI, big data and more into its strategy (Trotter, 2018).

• Strong brand Identity.

• The leading luxury brand in the 2018 Dow Jones Sustainability index, 4 years in a row in the index’s Textiles, Apparel & luxury goods section (Petter, 2018).

• Stopped burning unsold clothes.

• No real fur in their products.

• 14% of Burberry’s products have more than one positive attribute and 28% have one positive attribute.

• They procured 48% of its total energy from renewable sources in 2017/18, an increase of 24% from the previous year. Also driving demands for lower carbon power (Burberry PLC, 2018).

• Strong brand heritage and history with several milestones (Burberry U.S. Our History, n.d.)

• Transcended the brand to the digital area -> Marketing 4.0. Through customisation on the trenchcoat (Author unknown, Design A Custom Burberry Trench Coat, 2010), Virtual kisses for promoting their beauty product (Conti, 2013) and the combination of online and offline shopping in stores among other things.

• Have lowered their prices around 4% for their Ready-To-Wear collection and bags in China (Pan, 2018).

WEAKNESSES • High-price range in products which is not fitting for the millennial (Burberry U.S., Women, n.d.).

• Reactions from fans about their new logo is thought to be too basic and could have been made in Microsoft Word, expecting more from the brand (Griner, 2018).

OPPORTUNITIES • Creating a more affordable collection. Which would still keep the brand identity and the prestige of the brand.

THREATS • Major competitors such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci which are doing similar things as Burberry.

• Counterfeit threat - The fake products and imitations are a huge threat due to similarity and price range (Mau, 2018).

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- SEGMENTATION PYRAMID Stella McCartney is considered a Lifestyle Luxury brand, since the brand covers the attributes of series production, quality/style, selectivity, brand identity and heritage.

Quality & style Advanced quality materials, responsible, confident, feminine and chic simplistic style.

Brand Identity & Heritage

Series productions

This can be demonstrated through their strong brand values towards sustainability and being one of the trailblazers in that field.

They collaborate with other brands such as Adidas, offering limited edition collections (Adidas, n.d.) . According to the sales assistant in store (Ad-Hoc) , they select different products for every store (offline and online).

(Figure 6)

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PESTEL SUMMARY 23

EXTERNAL BRAND ANALYSIS The following chart summarises the main focuses of the PESTLE analysis as they appear in 2018. The full PESTLE analysis is presented in Figure (16) in the Annex.

POLITICAL FOCUSES: • Geopolitical

turbulence

ECONOMIC FOCUSES: • Economical

uncertainty; • Emerging East and Southern powers.

SOCIOCULTURAL FOCUSES: • Increasing

social media influence; • Increasing consumer expectations; • Personalisation and mass-customisation; • Rising focus on sustainable and responsible business methods (including the raising awareness towards workers’ rights).

TECHNOLOGICAL FOCUSES: New business models (quick-response and supply chain optimisation); • Adoption of disruptive technologies; • A-commerce and M-commerce integration & Importance of online platforms; Global interconnectedness.

•

ENVIROMENTAL FOCUSES: • Cleaning

the planet after fashion industry pol-

lution; • Water supply concern; • Ethical sourcing and supply chain management; • Sustainable resources CSR (Corporate social responsibility).

- EXPANSION STRATEGIES According to the 2017 Financial Document of Kering published a month prior to the split of 17 year long partnership between Stella McCartney and Kering, the luxury group stated in their annual financial document that Stella McCartney’s 2018 priority would be to continue strengthening its product offers, by advancing its retail operations and organisations to pursue its selective retail expansion. The brand will additionally, consolidate its omni-channel approach to further increase the proximity of the brand to its clients with a particular focus on Millennials. Thus, Stella McCartney wishes to expand and intensify its brand awareness with special emphasis given to China and other Asian markets (Kering, 2017).

Post the friendly-split with longtime partner, Kering, Stella McCartney seeks to challenge the brand to explore different methods and means of expanding her business despite uncertain times for the luxury fashion industry. Additionally, Stella McCartney commented in an exclusive interview with Women’s Wear Daily:

“We also don’t have these preconceived ideas that we have to sit in a certain price point, or territory. We are responding as well as respecting.”

(Conti, 2018)

Furthermore, she noted in the interview that the expansion strategies include a continuation of the annual environmental profit and loss account (EP&L) (Stella McCartney, 2016),

which measures the impact of the business and supply chain on the environment,

a concept she initiated during the partnership with Kering.

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- MARKET AND ENVIRONMENT ANALYSIS

1. ASIA

In the Asian region the brand has 36 own stores. Asia is the largest region with Stella McCartney stores. This is due to an aggressive expansion strategy directed by the Kering group which is being continued, despite the brands separation from the group, as there is a growing number of luxury consumers in China. Throughout the brands expansion in Asia, they have launched several lavish events including local Asian influencers.

Asia’s population is the largest in the world. Also, the brands new focused target, Millenials, account for 58% of the global population in Asia. Due to such a large population, pollution is a strong issue for the region and has therefore concerned the Asian millennials. Online movements concerning sustainability and brand transparency have reached Asian millennials and with an increase in awareness they are willing to make consumer shifts. For further information regarding Asia, refer to Figure (18.1) in the Annex.

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(Crawford, 2018)

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2. EUROPE

In the European region the brand has 26 own locations. The brand was founded and is established in the UK and therefore maintains a strong brand presence in their home territory as well as its neighboring countries.

Europe has a large population, smaller than Asia but larger than North America, and millennials only account for 20% of the population. Although, due to a large population, as well, pollution has raised concern amongst European Millennials. Political reform and the spread of information via internet has caused millenials to respond in paying more for ethical, sustainable and transparent brands.For further information regarding Europe, refer to Figure (18.2) in the Annex.

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3. NORTH AMERICA

Stella McCartney has 27 own stores in North America, which in this document includes the US and Canada. North America is not a huge focus for the brand as growth has been slower, in comparison to Asia, however this region is still important for brand awareness and image.

The North American population is not as grand as the regions prior, however their millennial population is substantial and the most concerned with the world’s environment. A large amount of both Americans and Canadians would not only spend more on a sustainable and transparent brand but also partake in the improvement of sociocultural issues.

For further information regarding North America, refer to Figure (18.3) in the Annex.

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- BRAND ANALYSIS

STRENGTHS

• The brands differentiation is derived from the unique position of it as the only sustainable brand in the luxury market.

• Existing collaborations with fashion and environmental brands help the brand in marketing and reaching a new audience (e.g. Stella x Adidas).

• Also in relevance to the previous point, the customers of the brand are loyal and will keep coming back to buy more since there are no direct alternatives that also provide sustainable high fashion.

• A strong social media presence helps the brand reach new audiences (especially younger people) and uses their platform to spread the message.

• The brand ships worldwide meaning everyone can make purchases.

• Very wide price range (€20 to €5000) allows any fan of the brand to find something that they would be able to afford.

WEAKNESSES

• There are over 70 flagship stores worldwide providing a wide global coverage and allowing for a brick and mortar retail experience for more buyers.

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• Some garments are only available to be bought online and are not presented in stores, meaning a weakness for the majority of the buyers excluding loyal buyers.

• The price point formed by the expenses of producing sustainably and using animal-free materials is above tolerable for many potential buyers.

• Some cases of inconsistency have been seen previously thought the different channels of communication of the brand e.g. the window displays in BRIC stores were not coherent with the current media campaign. Cases like this lead to uncertainty from the consumer’s perception and may lead to misunderstanding of the brand image.

SWOT • Sustainable and conscious brands are high in demand in the fashion industry nowadays; it may soon no longer be a distinguishable trait as new brands enter the market.

• The costs of raw materials (especially sustainable and well-sourced) are constantly rising, meaning the long-term upkeep of the brand may be difficult to sustain and the current price level, leading to potential loss of customers who cannot afford to pay more.

THREATS

• Some of the existing and ongoing collaborations with other brands are not received well by the brand’s audience, usually due to the other brand’s ethical values (e.g. Stella McCartney received a lot of backlash after the announcement of their collaboration with Adidas in 2013 and 2016).

• Together with the material costs, labour costs are also rising year by year, and since Stella advocated for legal and protected workforce rights, this may lead to a further increase in production costs and as a result decrease in revenues.

• Many of the garments of the brand are very similar, expanding the variety of colours and cuts could help the brand to gain new customers who do not fit into the current style of the brand. This needs to be done carefully to keep the essence of the brand present though the majority of the items.

• There is a space for collaborating with other sustainable brands that are also influencing the luxury market in a positive way to help “merge” forces.

OPPORTUNITIES

• The largest opportunity for the brand lies in the expansion segment though forming presence in potential new markets and expanding globally in new markets including BRIC countries.

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POINT OF SALE 31

STRATEGY - SHOP OBSERVATION

Cashiers desk in the store corner

Scaner code for the online app

Swimwear and footwear section

Store back

A magazine featuring Stella McCartney on the front cover

Changing rooms at the store back

Plastin geometric decor pieces in the changing rooms

Digital display in the mirror of the changing rooms

Store entrance with open window displays

AD - HOC

Store front

Store back

Examples of garment display

Bags display example

Accessories section

Neon lamps in the display

Stella McCartney x Stan Smith collaboration

Stells McCartney x Adidas collabortaion

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- STORE ANALYSIS On October 16, 2018 at 12 pm, the group conducting this research visited the Stella McCartney store on Passeig de Gracia in Barcelona, Spain. Down below is a summary of the store appearance (Figure 7):

As far as communication, there was limited storytelling that the brand reflected through the store arrangements and decor. The only digital element was a screen positioned in the mirror next to the changing rooms, which streamed the Stella McCartney runway show.

Located on the street corner (adressed on Passeig de Gracia but is not noticable unless attention is payed)

The store logo is illuminated and shown on all angles of the location on gold and silver backgrounds

The store was empty as far as customers go, with only one visitor entering the store throughout the whole time our group was there.

The garments were displayed on racks, with 1 item of each variety and size being hung up at a time, which made the appearance of the store come out crowded, even considering the limited room the space provides. Additionally, this particular store only carries the women’s selection.

The shop windows are open, therefore the contents of the store can bee seen from the outside and there are no mannequins positioned behind the glass.

The music was light and soothing, quiet and unnoticeable until attention is payed directly to it.

The store itself was average in size. It is based on the ground floor, with a combination of ceiling and floor-standing lights, and some accents of specific pieces and areas of consisting of specific colour palettes, usually identified with the brand - light pink, grey, light blue, white, as well as gold, blue and red accents.

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Upon the entrance, there is a doorman and an assistant who invite you in and hold the door.

The scent of the store is barely noticeable and is a light perfume smell mixed with the smell of “clean clothes�, usually achieved by cotton scented candles or smell dispensers.

The following chart (Figure 8) is a an evaluation of Stella McCartney stores worldwide, based both on the visit and additional secondary research. This step is needed in order to construct a conclusion regarding the overall brick and mortar position of the brand and the communication of it through physical channels.

STRENGTHS

• Some of the stores including flagships are highly invested into from the prism of customer experience and digitalisation of the retail space (e.g. the Manhattan flagship store) • The major aim for the stores is to capture nature based and at the same time modern approach of the brand, all based around each customer’s personal experience - this is a benefit from the communication perspective, since it is generating customer returns and loyalty and keeping a consistent brand image.

• Some stores (e.g. London’s Bond street flagship) explore the use of multi-sensory installations and constructions to provide an artistic, graphic, and sound based journeys for the visitors, making the shopping experiences more diverse and extended. This also helps to bring emotion into the experience, linking to storytelling and jenerating connectivity with the customers.

• A large part of the materials used in the stores as decorative elements are recycled or reused materials and fabrics from the unsold or broken garments. This way Stella supports her argument that those garments can be upcycled back into the business. The brand has managed to move away from using traditional luxury materials not only in the garments sector but also using handmade, organic and sustainably sourced materials also in the store designs. Additionally, Stella has partnered with AirLabs (a company that provides the stores with technology that filters the air and reduces exposure to air pollution inside by 95%) - the brand officially has the cleanest stores in all of brick and mortar retail (Stella McCartney, 2018).

WEAKNESSES

• Some of the brand’s stores (e.g. the one visited by the group in Barcelona) lack brand communication to the same extend it is done on other channels used for both online and physical communication.

This can become a disappointment to customers looking to receive a fulfilling shopping experience as a part of making the purchase.

OPPORTUNITIES

• Improvement can be done to standardise the physical stores to the same level of communication depth in order to provide a consistent customer experience and maintain the brand’s strong image.

• An opportunity could be including more digital elements into the stores to go in hand with the brand’s involvement in the technological field and their high use of technology in other areas of operation. This could help them achieve a more 360 degree approach in brick retain and benefit their sales and range of communicative techniques in the real space.

THREATS

• The split of the brand from the Kering Group may mean a temporary limitation in fiscal resources used to invest into the physical stores. If the brand doesn’t manage to adjust to the changes efficiently the quality of the experience in the stores may suffer.

• Some stores are more representative than others in the reflection of the brand’s true identity. An issue can arise through the customers having an inconsistent shopping experience in different store and therefore misunderstanding the brand’s true intentions.

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35

Example of another Stella McCartney brick location, newly opened London store on Bond Street (Figure 9) (Stella McCartney, 2018)

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- DIGITAL BRAND COMMUNCATION

Analysing the highly active online channels of the brand (Facebook, Instagram, YouTube, Twitter, Tumblr, Website), it becomes clear that the brand image is presented through a transparent brand communication incomparable to any competitor, transmitting information on products, sales, and brand values related content, devoted to support the brand mission with sustainability at their core.

The online communication and style of online accounts is additionally highly reflective of the love for nature and features both a soft and natural colour scheme (view Figure 10 below), that is accompanied by various complementary images of actual nature used for campaigns on Instagram and Facebook, inspirational boards on Tumblr and informative imagery explaining the core brand segments and values on the website.

The social channels highly reflect the social and environmental commitment of Stella McCartney. Both as a brand and a front figure, the brand exudes a peer-to-peer connection, that pushes trustworthiness and ensures craftsmanship and quality, perfectly pairing with a complementary seriousness of the subject of sustainability, facing the destructive industry.

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Figure 10: Stella McCartney Colour swatch. (Aleksandra Pavlova, 2018)

38

SOCIAL

39

Website (Stella McCartney, Sustainability, mission statement, n.d.)

Instagram

Twitter (Stella McCartney, @StellaMcCartney, n.d.)

Youtube

MEDIA

(Stella McCartney, stellamccartney, n.d.)

Facebook (Stella McCartney, @stellamccartney, n.d.)

(Stella McCartney’s Youtube account, n.d.)

Tumblr (Stella McCartney, stellamccartney.com, n.d.)

For a full Social Media analysis refer to Figure (21) in the Annex

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- OFFLINE BRAND COMMUNCATION The offline brand communication is coherent to the digital approach and additionally include further targeting towards millennials in line with the expansion strategy.

- 2008

TV

Stella McCartney launches first TV ad for the first fragrance STELLA, by Stella McCartney, which holds a highly classical style for perfume ads as it nurtures soft and light nature references to reflect the natural beauty of the product.

Screenshots taken from STELLA By Stella McCartney Ad in 2008. (Umaña, 2008)

- 2016 Stella McCartney launches a new fragrance campaign called ‘POP’ Grimes on Sustainability I #POPNOW keeping with the natural references. However, the approach to fragrances is modernised and is different from the 2008 traditional/cliché fragrance ad style, as it by 2016 instead gives emphasis to the products environmental friendliness by using endorsement of the Canadian female pop and R&B artist Grimes, who briefly discusses sustainability and friendship during the 30 seconds ad.

Screenshots from Stella McCartney’s Grimes on sustainability video. (Stella McCartney, 2016).

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BOF Business Of Fashion 2015, Country of brand launch

T Magazine Cover China 2017

Stella McCartney on the cover of BOF’s latest special print edition. (Amed, 2015)

Country of expansion (Models.com, T Magazine China, n.d.).

MAGAZINES

Stella McCartney has moreover achieved a high presence in content through various international magazines. Below images are examples of two magazines, respectively BOF (U.S) and T Magazine (China) in which the brand holds specific weight of content. It is additionally a strategic aim for the brand to, nurture and increase its brand presence and awarenessin the country of launch (U.S.) and region of expansion (China), by consolidating its omni-channel approach with a particular focus on millennials.

(For the full list of magazine clients of Stella McCartney refer to Figure 20 in the Annex)

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STORYTELLING 43

- TONE OF VOICE

ETHICAL ETHOS Informal close-to-heart attitude The ethical ethos of Stella McCartney is by 2018 an informal close-toheart and relatable millennial attitude, which situates the sustainable fashion products in an inclusive and emotional sense that communicates the core values of a “real-friend”, including trust, honesty and transparency.

Encouragement The tone of voice establishes a peer-to-peer connection between the brand and the consumer, it encourages a celebration of feminine, stylish and responsible consumption and the beauty of nature.

Personality Additionally, the brand leaves the customers room for self-expression, as the products come to carry a ‘personality’, a stance or a message and becomes the signifier of how the customer wants to be conveyed by its surroundings.

Authenticity This highly personal and relatable representation of a luxury brand such as Stella McCartney, builds a safe and reliable nature around the brand, in which McCartney becomes the customers friend. It opens up an honest information stream, which enables and pushes the brand authenticity.

Trustworthiness / Transparency Furthermore, the personal brand image is reflected in the brand name.

As Stella McCartney has chosen the same name for her brand this might assumingly push trustworthiness as she cannot “hide behind” a fixed label under another name. It therefore means that she stands forward and believes in what is represented by her as a brand and stresses the fact of McCartney’s willingness to express a high level of brand transparency.

- EMOTIONAL MARKETING The emotional connection is communicated through a theme, ‘the beauty of nature’ and is aimed for all communication actions by the general strategy of the brand. It pursues to reflect a story about a cosmovision on how humans and nature must work together in harmony to sustain its natural sphere. It is a message of ethical fashion in which the emotional trigger not only lies with animal rights, but with human rights as well. Additionally, the industry of fast-fashion has become just as big a concern for Stella McCartney, as the increased social cultural awareness of animal rights has majorly limited the use of fur and leather in fashion.

Despite the elegant ethics and messages the brand communicates, the products are beyond the budget of most consumers. However, Stella McCartney comments that she wishes more people “would save up and buy one thing at Stella McCartney instead of the 20 things they buy from a fast-fashion label” (Cartner-Morley, 2018). It is in line with the brand mission that the communication of Stella McCartney constantly keeps addressing her relentless upbeat passion for creating beautiful responsible clothes away from what she terms the “crochet your own sweater and carry a hemp handbag” (Cartner-Morley, 2018) cliche of eco-fashion. Stella McCartney communicates a message of responsibility, consciousness and a destructive and ignorance industry; however under a more glossy, friendly and less activist image as a mindful lover of nature and of life.

The story of the brand’s philosophy to reclaim, reuse and recycle. The emotional connection is reflected through an omni-channel brand communication/branding. It aims to flow through every one of the brand’s actions, from the founder herself to distribution and product to advertising and customers are generally able to trace the brand mission at anytime. However, previously mentioned Ad-Hoc research showed an incoherence regarding the brand communicating proper storytelling and therefore destroying the brand image in global brick and mortar point of sales (Refer to the store SWOT, page 34).

The emotional omni-channel connection in products:

Stella McCartney Fall/ winter 2016-2017.

(Garrigues, M. 2016)

Stella McCartney resort 2018.

(Vogue U.S. 2018)

Victoria and Albert Museum, London (Cartner-Morley, J., 2018)

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The emotional omni-channel connection in advertising:

Autumn/winter 2017 campaign in a Scottish landfill site Stella. (Cartner-Morley, J., 2018)

Stella McCartney summer 2018 campaign film (Stella McCartney, Stella McCartney Summer 2018 Campaign Film, 2018)

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- THE AIDA MODEL The following model (Figure 11) explains the journey of the consumer regarding the decision making that results into purchasing Stella McCartney and how the brand uses marketing and advertising strategies to provoke that decision:

ATTENTION

INTEREST

The use of provocative and manipulating advertising that raises awareness on environmental issues that Stella McCartney takes seriously.

Stella McCartney is gaining customers interest through their environmental concerns combined with their feminine and simplicity style.

DESIRE Stella McCartney answers consumers needs and desires in terms of environment, style and transparency. They desire to be mindful consumers.

ACTION The consumers take the action to purchase from Stella McCartney, or have the desire to want to purchase however not being able to purchase due to high prices.

( For a further analysis regarding the AIDA model refer to Figure 22 in the Annex)

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- CONCLUSION

As a conclusion, Stella McCartney’s current POS and MEDIA strategy is portraying her love and respect for sustainability as well as inspiring and influencing other brands and consumers. The tone of voice used throughout the strategy applies a friendly, honest and transparent peer-to-peer connection between the brand and the consumers in celebrating the beauty of nature throughout various channels. Additionally, Stella McCartney encourages mindful consumerism.

However, some physical stores show lack of storytelling and coherency in terms of brand values and communications, the “beauty of nature” strategy. This weakness opens up an opportunity to standardise their physical stores to include the same level of communication for all their stores in order to have a consistent customer experience.

Moreover, comparing to the high level of technology innovations in production, they are lacking in technology and providing a 360 experience in stores.

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48

ANNEX Figure (12): Explanation of Figure: (4) Stella McCartney’s Ethical Sphere Model

SUPPORTING CHARITY ELLEN MC ARTHUR Stella collaborates with the Ellen McArthur foundation to bring FOUNDATION (Ellen to life their ambitious vision of the future of the fashion industry, Macarthur Foundation et. the aim of which is to “ensure clothes, fabric, and fibres are kept at al., 2017) their highest value during use and re-enter the economy after use, never ending up as waste”(Stella McCartney, n.d., “Sustainability, Circularity”).

WASTE COMPENSATION

Stella McCartney is known for staying accountable for the impact it has a brand on the environment and using up resources that are needed in the production process, and as one of the ways of compensating this impact, the company pays in donations to charities and organisations that help to save the environment the amounts of money estimated their actions has cost, yearly.

LOW-WASTE PRODUCTION REGENERATIVE FARMING

For biological materials, including cotton, cellulose and wool, the standard for the brand is to produce them in a way that can later allow them to become safe soil nutrients, as well as being farmed in a sustainable and regenerative way, as a result also protecting the farm’s ecosystems (Stella McCartney, n.d., “Sustainability, Circularity”).

TECHNICAL MATERIALS

Stella aims to use majorly technical materials (human-made, coming from inorganic sources) over biological ones, as they can be used over and over again in a continuous cycle if recycled optimally (Stella McCartney, n.d., “Sustainability, Circularity”).

CLEVERCARE

Clevercare is a reminder to the brand’s customers to consider the impact of their purchase even after it has already been made. It helps to provide information of how to wash and care for the garments to make them last a long time and reduce the environmental impact of those actions. On the website the brand gives 5 main suggestions for the way the clothing should be treated from the moment of purchase, until it will be recycled in the end of its life -cycle (Stella McCartney, n.d, “Sustainability, Circularity”).

VEGAN MATERIALS PEACE SILK

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Peace Silk is the same silk as sourced traditionally, however is made without causing harm to the silkworms, since they’re able to fully turn into moths and emerge naturally from their cocoons.

The silk is then gathered from the forests after they migrate. The brand has also partnered with California-based company Bolt Threads, the uses green chemistry to produce materials that imitate animal-derived alternatives,at the same time helping to sustain the environment (Stella McCartney, “Sustainability, Silk”, n.d.)

FUR-FREE FUR

Since the launch, the brand committed to only using faux fur in their designs to avoid cruelty, since over 85% of animal skins comes from animals living in captivity in factory farms. Additional reasoning is that fur needs toxic chemicals to be processed, which harms both the workers and the environment (Stella McCartney, n.d., “Sustainability, Fur-Free-Fur”).

CRUELTY FREE WOOL

Stella works with specific selected certified farms that focus on animal welfare to gather their wool. The certificate proves that the farms priorities are material health, material reutilisation, renewable energy, carbon management, water health and social fairness, meaning that neither animals or the planet gets harmed in the process (Stella McCartney, n.d., “Sustainability, Wool”).

SYNTHETIC LEATHER

Apart from using synthetic leather, Stella focuses on quality to prove that not using leather is not a compensation, but in fact a better alternative. By using innovative technologies and less harmful chemicals, the brand found a way to use recycled polyester to make their products, as well as using a vegetable oil based coating for the fabrics, thus reducing the usage of petroleum (Stella McCartney, n.d., “Sustainability, Vegetarian Leather”).

RECYCLING CIRCULAR FASHION

The idea behind this philosophy is that nothing should go to waste - the brand hold accountable in recycling and upcycling anything they’ve produced and avoid using resources that are non-renewable.

Stella wants to make the fashion as an industry more circular and eliminate the concept of waste (Stella McCartney, Sustainability, Circularity, n.d.).

THE REAL REAL

The Real Real is a foundation that Stella works with, the purpose of which is to give a new life to luxury goods through consignment by providing the largest in the market selection of pre-owned luxury items, either by helping them find new owners of up cycling them into new items (Stella McCartney, Sustainability, Collaborations, n.d.).

LABOUR RIGHTS LABOUR EDUCATION

Stella McCartney provides training for their suppliers, giving them all the useful tools and workshops for gaining insight into their craft and learn new things for becoming better professionals and opportunities for career growth inside the company. Different types of audits are used depending on how manufacturing suppliers operate and after identifying specific risk areas (Stella McCartney, “Sustainability, Respect for people”, n.d.).

SOCIAL SUSTAINABILITY

The brand believes in treating everyone with respect, including the workers of their supply chain on every level, starting from the farmers, all the way until the factory and store workers. They advocate for social equality and paying people fairly for their work, protecting their rights at the workplace and ensuring their safety and health (Stella McCartney, “Sustainability, Social Sustainability”, n.d.).

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REMAINING HIGH FASHION ETHICAL Stella McCartney is known for many collaborations with not only COLLABORATIONS other designers, but also companies and organisations that has the same values as the brand promotes, which is always her priority. Although receiving criticism in the past for collaborating with non-sustainable brands (like Adidas, 2012 and 2016 collabs), Stella argues that her idea is always to spread her belief and share the resources she has with other brands to make them more sustainable, which has had it’s success - the latest collaborations with Adidas in 2018 has come out with a completely cruelty-free Adidas Stan Smith sneaker - first ever for the sports brand (Stella McCartney,“Sustainability, Collaborations”, n.d).

AWARDS

Stella has gained countless “Designer of the Year” awards since the launch of the brand, meaning it’s recognition in the high fashion world, proving that the value of the brand is not only contained through it’s environmentalist philosophy (Stella McCartney, “About Stella, Timeline”, n.d.).

FAIR TRADE SAFE FARMING

The initiative behind this side of the brand’s operations is to ensure a fair production and exchange of materials that go into the composition of the good (Stella McCartney, “Sustainability, Social Sustainability”, n.d).

ETHICAL FASHION INITIATIVE

The way the materials are sources are ethical and safe for the producers and all the way down the production chain (Stella McCartney, “Sustainability, Collaborations”, n.d).

CARE FOR THE PLANET ECONYL

Most synthetic materials used come from recycled nylon and polyester, and the goal is to eliminate all virgin from the production chain. As well, since 2012 all handbags have been made from 100% recycled plastic water bottles. Econyl is the material used from recycled synthetics, collected and made in Slovenia (Stella McCartney, “Sustainability, Recycled nylon and polyester”, n.d.).

VISCOSE FROM FORESTS

Stella McCartney courses their viscose in a way that helps to protect the forests and endangered species living there, by sourcing it sustainably from certified forests in Sweden, which in return reduces waste and helps remain biodiversity. Other forest-based fabrics, including acetate and modal also come from managed forests that aren’t endangered (Stella McCartney, “Sustainability, Fibres from forests”, n.d).

REGENERATED CASHMERE

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As cashmere is a valuable natural material in fashion, also usually related to luxury goods, and Stella McCartney found a way of producing the fabric in a way that reduces the environmental impact of the process by 92% (instead of using virgin cashmere, the brand

uses Re.Verso™, regenerated cashmere made from post-factory cashmere waste) (Stella McCartney, n.d., “Sustainability, Cashmere”).

ORGANIC COTTON

Mostly organic cotton (61%) is used by the brand to support local farmers and reduce the environmental impact of the production processes, since it eliminates toxic and persistent chemicals from being used, as well as improves the soil health and increases water conservation. Additionally organic cotton is more valuable, since local farmers are being paid higher for it, helping them remain an income (Stella McCartney, n.d., “Sustainability, Organic Cotton”).

Figure (13): Extension of Market and Enviromental Analysis, p. 25

Asia: 36 locations

China (8), South Korea (2), Japan (21), Thailand (1), Singapore (2), Indonesia (1), Kazakhstan (1)

Arabic Countries: 7 locations

Lebanon (2), Saudi Arabia (2), United Arab Emirates (2), Qatar (1)

Europe: 26 locations

Spain (2), France (5), Italy (4), England (11), Denmark (1), Russia (1), Azerbaijan (2)

North America: 27 locations

United States (24), Canada (2), US extension-Puerto Rico (1) (Stella McCartney, Store Locator, n.d.)

Figure (14): Extension of Market and Enviromental Analysis, p. 25

CHINA • 415 million millennials (Kumar, 2018).

• Millennials in China reach the highest percentage of interest on spending money in the

fashion industry.

• The main reasons that drive millennials to spend money on luxury items are: “I like to treat myself ”, “I like to impress friends/ family/ colleagues”, “I like to have the latest products” and “it makes me feel good”.

• Chinese buyers account for 30%-35% of global luxury market.

• It is the only country in which millennials’ purchase decision are mainly influenced by the brand’s websit.

• Compared to the global average, there are still many millennials in China that prefer to buy in stores rather than online.

• 65.7% of millennials are willing to give a item from a luxury brand as a present rather than an experience (What makes millennials spend more?, 2017).

• Millennials in China do not have access to the same social media and entertainment plat-

forms as the rest the world.

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BRICK COUNTRIES ANALYSIS 53

INDIA • 440 million (Kumar, 2018).

• In 2020, India will have 410 million millennials, who will spend $330 billion annually

(Mitra, 2018).

• Third-largest market for Instagram with 59 milion active profile monthly (Mitra, 2018).

• E-commerce companies are investing on digital advertising because of the online shopping habits of millennials in India (Mitra, 2018).

• The income left, after essentials, education and utilities, is primarily spent on entertainment and eating out (32.7%), apparel and accessories (21.4%) and electronics (11.2%) (Ahluwalia, 2018).

• Millennials are slowly shifting from the offline retail channels towards the online mode (Ahluwalia, 2018).

• Millennials are spending around 17 hours a week on the internet are driving the market towards an omni-channel approach. This could be a good opportunity for the brand Stella • McCartney that is willing to move towards that approach (Ahluwalia, 2018).

• Millennials are more socially and environmentally conscious than previous generation, therefore, brands that embrace these values are bound to grow and build engagement within this generation (Jain, 2017).

BRASIL • Millennials are more than 25% of the total population in the country (MasterCard, 2017).

• Shopping through e-commerce is well developed and millennials holds more than 20% of

all the transactions made online (MasterCard, 2017).

• 65% of millennials in Latin America, before making a purchase, research the product online (MasterCard, 2017).

• The purchase power in Brazil is increasing but most of millennials are searching for discounts (62%) (MasterCard, 2017).

• 54% of millennials are becoming more aware about sustainability and human rights and they prefer to buy products from socially responsible brand (MasterCard, 2017).

RUSSIA • Russia, together with Indonesia and Argentina saw the fastest internet penetration increase. • In 2010 an average of 40% of the population was using the internet while in 2015

increased to 70% (Bourlier and Gomez, 2017).

• Only 25% of millennials follow brands on social media (CPP Luxury, 2018).

• In the purchase process, millennials are moved towards brand with high the exclusivity, quality and strong heritage (CPP Luxury, 2018).

• Millennials are easily switching between brands, they did not develop high brand loyalty (Khodyreva, 2017).

• Technologies such as Apple/Samsung pay, contactless ecc have been totally embraced by millenials (Khodyreva, 2017).

• Russia is the biggest country in the world, therefore, e-commerce, that eliminates long distances, has been successful and millennials, through this channel can have access to all the products and services (Khodyreva, 2017).

Figure (15): extension of Positioning Map, p 18 SUSTAINABILITY

BRAND

PRICE POINT

Edun (Edun, n.d.) Their mission is to find new sources of sustainable produc- 40-500€;

tion and encourage trade in Africa through manufacturers, Products ranging collaborating with artists and creating communities. A mix from apparel to of innovative eco solutions for materials (Eluxe Magazine, accessories n.d).

Victoria She is supporting the Eco-Age’s Green Carpet Challenge, 150-3000€; Beckham (Victo- which is bringing Sustainability to the red carpet (Borovic, Products ranging ria Beckham, n.d.) 2015).

They want to be ethically conscious in everything that they do, in terms of factories, suppliers and farmers. Sustainabilpearl, All clothing, ity is their mindset, they are plastic free, eco friendly suppliers and they even include vegetarian lunch. Sustainable n.d.) diffusion collection (No Frills), which is created with organic natural materials, respect to animals, social responsibility, through a transparent supply chain and a low carbon footprint (Mother of Pearl, Brand Bio, n.d.).

Mother Of Pearl (Mother of

from apparel to accessories

100-1000€; Products ranging from accessories to apparel.

The brand is an inspirational campaigner including the 29-2000€; Vivienne Westwood (Vivi- “green” movement and the environmental change aware- Products ranging enne Westwood, n.d.)

ness, where she worked with influential celebrities and pro- from accessories to moted her eco-friendly fashion (Vivienne westwood, save the apparel. arctic campaign, n.d.). Also, they are a part of ethical fashion initiative (good working conditions, environment friendly and transparent) and Artisian Fashion (social enterprise gives connections)(Ethical Fashion Initiative, 2018, p.3).

Reformation

They have sustainability as the core of everything that they do, from their sources the production with sustainable materials such as with TENCEL™ LYOCELL ORGANIC COTTON RECOVER® REFIBRA™. As well as minimizing waste, water and energy footprints with green buildings (Reforma-

(Reformation, Our stuff, n.d.)

40-600€; Products ranging from accessories to apparel.

tion, Sustainable practises, n.d.).

They are a part of the KERING group, which aim is to be 120-18000€; Alexander McQueen (Alex- sustainable by 2025, by using natural resources and taking Products ranging ander McQueen, n.d.)

Gucci

(Gucci, n.d.)

care of the impact on environment and the climate change from accessories to (Kering, n.d.). apparel.

They already do not use real fur and have started thinking 160-8600€; about their environmental performance (impact), by taking Products ranging care of it through waste management, eco-friendly paper from accessories to and packaging and the use of sustainable raw materials (Gu- apparel. cci Equilibrium,n.d.)

Burberry (Burb- They have been part of some eco-friendly initiatives, as erry E.S, n.d).

recent pledge. Which is about saving the unsold pieces and re-using them. Furthermore, they have decided to be a furfree brand, as well as saving up to 48% of its energy from renewable sources by demanding lower carbon power and following their footprint (Burberry PLC, 2018).

45-3500€; Products ranging from accessories to apparel.

54

PESTEL ANALYSIS

SOCIOCULTURAL

ECONOMICAL

POLITICAL

Figure (16): Expansion of PESTEL analysis, p. 23

55

• The Brexit could lead to some changes in the rules regarding trade and shipping with other countries.

• The UK’s negotiations to exit the European Union continue to affect political risk in Europe. Political instability in Spain and a March election in Italy also raise concerns about the rise of anti-establishment or “Euroskeptic” parties.

• “Social instability, adverse government actions and terrorist threats are the most common political risks that multinational organisations now face when trading or investing in foreign countries,”.

• Current political landscape will have lasting effects on globalisation beyond 2019, as many consumers and countries might turn to give focus to domestic growth and increasingly local benefits. Additionally, geopolitical turbulence represent an unpredictable component to the economic uncertainty.

• Global economy is uncertain, which means that brands must invest in flexible and innovative solutions to easily adapt to constantly changing circumstances. Nevertheless, attention will foremost be given to re-focusing internal company strengths.

• According to Amarta Banta, managing director of Agility Research and Strategy, the European luxury industry is focusing its efforts towards the Chinese consumers because the current spenders are the class of Chinese millionaires (Owens, 2017).

• The fashion industry is growing day after day (5.91% yearly growth over the next three years) and, according to foundation for economic education, by 2020, it is supposed to reach a mind-boggling $1.65 trillion sales in US dollars worldwide (Singh, 2017).

• Economic growth shifts west towards Eastern and Southern markets.

• According to The Business of Fashion Team, in 2017, more than 70% of the revenues came from emerging markets.

• The sociocultural environment is experiencing increasing consumer expectations. Due to constantly rising market competition, a total fulfillment from all brand offerings such as convenience, quality, value orientation, newness, price, functionality and immediacy is expected at all times.

• Studies made by The Shelton Group, a marketing company specialised in sustainability, states that 90 % of millennials are more likely to spend their money on products from brands that embrace sustainability and corporate social values(Hargrove, 2018).

• According to The Shelton group and in particular to its founder, Suzanne Shelton; people want to be considered from the others as a consumer who buys sustainable products.

• The new digital generation (millennials), at a time when fashion and luxury are becoming increasingly institutionalised, are looking for authenticity and transparency from the brands (Owens, 2017).

• Reillisy’s words have been reported in Real Style Magazine and the article says that millennials are very informed and they want their clothes and accessories to reflect their personal and political points of view (Piters, 2018).

• Generally digitised retail industry, changing distribution formats and channels, mark the evolution of the retail sector. As a opponent to the high level of digitalisation, a continuous need for brick-and-mortar and human interaction appears, despite the industry experiencing a decline in brick & mortar traffic.

• Increasing consumer desire for user-led design and experience processes of personalisation and mass-customisation, which generally take place online and create an added product value. Offline retailers, however, have additionally begun adopting the consumer desire for personalised products and services, pairing it with the rise of m-commerce.

• Increasing social media influence, has impacted social media interactions and commitments between brands and consumers and have globally affected the consumer purchasing decisions.

• Values and social (including rising awareness on workers rights) and environmentally consciousness have come to matter and gained an increasing importance in the current consumption behaviour.

• With this Artificial Intelligence growth, it will unfortunately take away jobs and be replaced with technology.

LEGAL

• National and international laws.

• According to The Guardian, the LEAN proposes inserting a land-clearing trigger in the Environment Protection and Biodiversity Act, which links the issue explicitly to the management of climate change. (Murphy, 2018).

• The Chinese government is taking action a new Air Pollution Prevention and Control Action Plan (Clark, 2017).

• Import and Export restrictions affecting the worldwide delivery services and internationally based businesses due to the economic and health and safety changes.

• Worker rights and regulations of the working conditions are being tightened in an attempt to better the employees’ conditions and protect them in all levels of the distribution channels in different businesses under the fashion industry umbrella. Child labor rights are becoming more prominent.

ENVIROMENTAL

• The Guardian used a report of MacArthur’s foundation to expose the scale of waste, and how the throwaway nature of fashion has created a business which generates greenhouse emissions of 1.2bn tonnes a year (Laville, 2017).

• Less than 1% of fabric used to make clothing is recycled into new clothing and a truckload of clothing is wasted every second across the world (Laville, 2017).

• The textile production uses around 93bn cubic meters of water annually, contribution to problems in some water- scarce regions (Laville, 2017).

• Demographics and population changes.

• Heavy palls of industrial smog have almost become the norm in some Chinese cities (Clark, 2017).

• According to a British Antarctic Survey the amount of plastic washing up into the shores of remote South Atlantic islands is 10 times greater than it was a decade ago (ScienceDaily, 2018).

• Science daily published the annual review of Environmental and Resources which states that since the start of the century, global average sea-level has risen by about 0.2 feet (ScienceDaily, 2018).

• Overpopulation is a problem that our planet is facing everyday, especially in less developed or developing countries where the resources are scared. As a result, the economy is adopting an intensive agriculture that uses chemical fertilizer, pesticides and insecticides to grow the crops used for food and prodcution (Conserve Energy Future, 2018).

• Human activity is leading to the extinction of species and habitats and loss of biodiversity.

• Environmental restrictions imposed by in-country governments are affecting the markets.

TECHNOLOGICAL

• Increased adoption of innovative and disruptive technologies.

• Growing digitalisation in the offline retail environment (including refined cost structures across the value chains), as brands push for omni-channel communication and distribution efficiency.

• Additional technological development within design of textiles is carried out, a concept based on working on the development of a new way to separate and recapture polyester and cotton from textiles to be reintroduced back into the supply chain as new, raw materials (Laville, 2017).

• Growing significance of m-commerce and digital integration throughout the shopping experience • Increasing importance for retailers to adopt omni-channel or model O2O2O premises to their distribution.

• A-Commerce is about AI and Automation focus in businesses, which are increasing in retail behaviours. Where algorithms and smart devices will be implemented in the retail experiences (such as through a drone delivery and automated warehouses etc) (Author unknown, 2018).

• Marketing 5.0 is moving from Digital (marketing 4.0) to Artificial Intelligence. It is applications that do the work of a human operator, it uses algorithms to learn from past data and it covers other techniques such as voice and image recognition (Mathew, 2018).

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MARKETING MIX Figure (17): Expansion of Marketing Mix analysis, p. 11 PRODUCT WOMEN’S:

MEN’S:

Ready-to-wear

Ready-to-wear

- Coats & Jackets - Knitwear - Dresses - Sweatshirts & T-shirts - Shirts & Tops - Trousers - Denim - Skirts - All in ones - Swimwear - Lingerie & Sleepwear

Accessories

- Sunglasses - Tech Cases - Other Accessories - Fragrances - Handbags - Wallets & Purses

Shoes GIRL’S

Ready-to-wear

- Outerwear - Dresses & All inones - Jumpers & Cardigans - T-shirts - Blouses & Shirts - Skirts - Trousers & Shorts - Shoes & Accessories

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- Outerwear - Jackets & Blazers - Trousers & Shorts - Suits - Shirts - Denim - Knitwear - T-shirts & Sweatshirts - Swimwear

Accessories

- Bags - Sunglasses - Wallets & Card cases - Other Accessories

Shoes

- Casual shoes - Sneakers - Boots

BOY’S

- Outerwear - Jumpers & Cardigans - T-shirts - Shirts - Trousers & Shorts - Shoes & Accessories

BABY

- Outerwear - Dresses & All in ones - Jumpers & Cardigans - T-shirts - Baby Gift Sets - Trousers & Shorts - Sleepwear & Underwear - Shoes & Accessories

PRICE WOMEN’S: (221.795€)

MEN’S: (185-1.995€)

Ready-to-wear

- Swimwear (210-315€) - Outerwear (945-1.995€) - Jackets & Blazers (625-1.275€) - Trousers & Shorts (350-665€) - Suiting (370-1.275€) - Shirts (275-465€) - Denim (350-375€) - Knitwear (465-995€) - T-shirts & Sweatshirts (185-595€)

- Coats & Jackets (6951.795€) - Knitwear (495-1.795€) - Dresses (825-3.895€) - Sweatshirts & T-shirts (175-795€) - Shirts & Tops (1951.195€) - Trousers (425-950€) - Denim (365-650€) - Skirts (525-1.695€) - All in ones (795-1.395€) - Swimwear (100-365€) - Lingerie & Sleepwear (35-430€)

Accessories

- Sunglasses (190-360€) - Tech Cases (60€) - Other Accessories (50395€) - Fragrances (22-99€) - Handbags (285-1.485€) - Wallets & Purses (180395€)

Shoes (250-1.025€) GIRL’S (35-265€) - Outerwear (120-265€) - Dresses && All in-ones (70-140€) - Jumpers & Cardigans (65-150€) - T-shirts (40-55€) - Blouses & Shirts (7585€) - Skirts (55-75€) - Trousers & Shorts (5080€) - Shoes & Accessories (35-160€)

Ready-to-wear

Accessories

- Bags (345-740€) - Sunglasses (170-390€) - Wallets & Card cases (160-345€) - Other Accessories (185-745€)

Shoes

- Casual shoes (350-395€) - Sneakers (495-575€) - Boots (595-770€)

BOY’S:(40-32€) - Outerwear (120-320€) - Jumpers & Cardigans (60-130€) - T-shirts (45-60€) - Shirts (75-100€) - Trousers & Shorts (60-95€) - Shoes & Accessories (40-160€)

BABY: (30-145€) - Outerwear (90-145€) - Dresses & All in ones (35-140€) - Jumpers & Cardigans (50-90€) - T-shirts (40-55€) - Baby Gift Sets (55-140€) - Trousers & Shorts (40-65€) - Sleepwear & Underwear (55140€) - Shoes & Accessories (30-95€)

PROMOTION ADVERTISING Stella McCartney has a strong media presence thanks to the young audience that lately is following it, the brand uses its platforms to communicate the values of the company with the purpose to create a one to one relation with the followers. Stella’s World is promoted also through offline advertising such as magazines and billboards. In the advertising strategy, are also included all the actions of product placement, sponsorships, co-branding (Adidas) and direct market (People can subscribe for emails through the website and be updated on new products and promotions) PR The brand has its own press room section, available on the official website; the company is realizing news, press articles and conferences, community activities and special events. Stella Mccartney is portraying a positive image of the brand.

PERSONAL SELLING Shop assistant in flagship stores.

SALES PROMOTIONS Usually the brand has products on sales in department stores and online retailers.

DISTRIBUTION In 2017, Stella McCartney, brand that used to belong to Kering group, reported its most profitable year making profits of €3bn on sales of €15.5bn.

The brand owns more than 70 directly operated stores worldwide but the number of point of sale is increasing year after year. In 2017, the company opened two flagship stores in two high- traffic locations of Paris (231 rue Saint-Honoré) and New York (929 Madison Avenue); as well as free-standing stores in Florence and shop in “South Coast Plaza”, one of the most important mall in Costa Mesa, California (Stella McCartney, Our new stores, 2017) in order to consolidate the brand presence in the retail network.

Regarding the wholesale channel, the products are available in specialty shops and department stores.

According to the official Stella McCartney’s website, the brand boasts of 863 doors distributed in 77 different countries.

The e-commerce has been growing exponentially in the past year creating a strong online presence and an improvement in terms of retail revenue. The products are sold and shipped in more than 100 countries through the stellamccartney. com website but also through other online retail platforms such as Net-a-porter, mytheresa, Selfridges&Co, Farfetch and many others. However, it is important to point out the fact that some of the items available on the websites are not sold throughout the store, therefore, the offer online and offline is not the same. On the other hand, according to the Kering financial report 2017 (2017 Financial document, 2018), the brand is now moving towards an omni-channel approach in which online and offline distribution are offering the same products and services.

(Stella McCartney, n.d.)

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ASIA

Figure (18.1): Expansion of Market and Enviromental Analysis, p. 25

ASIA MARKET ANALYSIS • 36 own stores in Asia (Stella McCartney, Store Locator, n.d.)

• Largest amount of locations in comparison to Europe and North American regions • Brand has had its focus on Asian market • China in particular has been a strong focus for the brand as “a growing number of lux-

ury consumers in China are now looking for more sophisticated fashion” (Retail in Asia, 2014) • “The directors are pleased with the company’s performance [in Asia] during the economic recession and are confident that the UK operations are well placed to take advantage of new opportunities in a recovering market,”(Armstrong, 2015) • In 2017, Stella McCartney launched a Stella x Tokyo and Beijing campaign and event with local influencers who wore the latest looks from their most recent collection (Stella McCartney, 2017) • Stella McCartney first chose to expand in Asia through foreign partnerships “In 2007, the brand signed an exclusive distribution deal with the Lane Crawford Joyce • Group to open 10 freestanding stores in China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Macao, Singapore, Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia by 2012. And yesterday [March 26,2008], McCartney announced a partnership with TSG International Marketing Pvt to open 6 stores across India, including two stores by the end of this year” (Amed, 2008)

ASIA TARGET AND ENVIROMENTAL ANALYSIS • Asia’s population, China and India in particular, is exponentially growing • Asian millennials are the most targeted consumer, at the moment, for Stella McCartney • About 58 % of global Millennials live in Asia, including a whopping 385 million in India (Peterson, McCaffery and Sillman, 2015) • “Asia is slightly overrepresented by its Millennial population relative to its overall share of the global population (58 percent of global Millennials vs. 56 percent of total global population)” (Peterson, McCaffery and Sillman, 2015) • With the most populous region of both people and millennials in Asia, it is understandable that Stella McCartney and other brands are looking to expand in the Asian region.

Populous countries can ensure more consumers • As Asia is the most populated region in the world with 4,557,829,131 people (Worldometers, 2018), pollution and unsustainable methods have raised an issue, due to “agricultural, transport , fuel, household energy use and industrial processes” (Pollard, 2018) • As this is a concerning matter, for both living and business, Asian millennials are becoming more concerned with this matter • Due to unlimited accessible information from the internet Millennials, who are the heaviest users, are gaining awareness of unsustainable methods. Following, “the result of this has been a wave of advocacy surrounding ethical business that has swept across Asia-Pacific” (Zein, 2018) • Online movements, such as #whomademyclothes, inspired by a textile factory disaster in Bangladesh, and initiatives to end plastic pollution through the introduction of alternatives to plastic such as edible straws have gained momentum in both Indonesia and Singapore (Zein, 2018)

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EUROPE MARKET ANALYSIS

EUROPE

Figure (18.2)

• 26 own locations in Europe (Stella McCartney, Store Locator, n.d.)

• Brand was founded and is established in London, UK-based in the European continent • 11/26 european stores in the UK- country with most POS in Europe • Stella McCartney’s first store opened in London in 2002 (The Telegraph, 2002) • After opening, she solely expanded throughout Europe- close control • Key physical European touchpoints are important to the brand as Europe is necessary for

luxury brand recognition and awareness

EUROPE TARGET AND ENVIROMENTAL ANALYSIS

• Europe’s population is 742,830,190 as of Thursday, October 25, 2018, based on the latest United Nations estimates (Worldometers, 2018) • Europe has approximately 102 million Millennials living in the EU, and they are roughly 20% of the population (Ferrer, 2018) • “The only region that is noticeably underweight on Millennials is Europe (8 percent of global Millennials vs. 10 percent of total global population)” (Peterson, McCaffery and Sillman, 2015) • Pollution and unsustainable methods have also sparked Europe’s concern • The European Parliament has been proactive and recently voted for an extensive ban on single-use plastics to help the world's oceans, member states will also have to ensure that tobacco companies cover the cost of cigarette butt collection and processing, and EU states will be obliged to recycle 90% of plastic bottles by 2025 (Gabbatiss, 2018) • Responsible for the bill passed, Frederique Ries states that “It is essential in order to protect the marine environment and reduce the costs of environmental damage attributed to plastic pollution in Europe, estimated at €22bn (£19bn) by 2030.”(Gabbatiss, 2018) • In 2014, 40 % of European Millennials were willing to pay more for goods and services from socially responsible companies compared to 32% in 2011 (The European Sting, 2018) • European Millennials, as well, attain a high awareness of what is happening throughout the world with the internet and therefore are increasingly desiring more ethical, sustainable and transparent brands • European millennials who are welcoming more sustainable methods, and are willing to spend more, would most likely appreciate a brand such as Stella McCartney

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NORTH AMERICA 61

Figure (18.3)

NORTH AMERICA MARKET ANALYSIS • 27 own stores in North America (Stella McCartney, Store Locator, n.d.)

• Majority of the stores, 24, are in the US • The North American region is important for the brand as it is an affluent area, known for innovating and inspiring other countries around the world • As the US, in North America, is a leading country, Stella McCartney needs to maintain a strong brand awareness in order to grow in other regions • North America is not a huge focus for the brand as the new emerging markets, in Asia, are being focus on more for brand awareness • It is said that “Although growth in 2017 has been slower compared with other countries, the US remains the world largest luxury goods market and it is expected to remain the world leader through 2018, reinforcing its strategic importance within the global industry” (Deloitte, 2018)

NORTH AMERICA TARGET AND ENVIROEMTAL ANALYSIS • The current population of Northern America is 364,669,862 as of Thursday, October 25, 2018 (Worldometers, 2018) • In the United States there are over 75 million millennials (Frey, 2018), while in Canada there are “more than 7.3 million” (E-Marketer, 2018) • The United States and Canada are focused on as North America consists of many different countries and Stella McCartney has POS in only those two • In both the US and Canada, most Millennials are concerned with sustainable practices • According to Nielsen’s 2015 Global Corporate Sustainability Report, 73% of American Millennial consumers would spend more on a product if it came from a sustainable brand and 81% of millennials expect companies to declare their corporate citizenship publicly (Lein, 2018) • Canadian Millennials, similarly, are also concerned with ethics and sustainability • “One in four Millennials has been actively engaged in a cause or issue in the past year, mostly involving social justice, the environment, politics or health care. Such involvement is linked to education as well as social values” (CharityVillage, 2017)

Figure (19): Extension of the Target Segmentation Analysis p. 14

DEMOGRAPHICS

Stella McCartney, predominantly targets women Generation X and Generation Y, respectively born from 1966-1976, and 1977-1994, with high income level with solid economically flexibility and middleto high educations and lives in or close to Metropolitan areas (Mainly in US and UK).

• Primary target: Baby Boomers, Generation X • Secondary target: Millennials, Generation Y, despite being secondary target the Millennials have been and will be of priority for Stella McCartney post 2018 (Kering, 2017).

PSYCHOGRAPHICS

The psychographic analysis (including AdHoc research of shop observation) of the Stella McCartney target shows that the interests of the target is drawn more to apparel and fashion than sustainability.

However, the environmental consciousness is a bonus despite the attribute not being the pure reason of sale.

It has additionally shown a sophisticated, modern and responsible purchasing behaviour that appreciates high quality products and a luxurious experience to shopping. It is a female target wanting feminine, classy and comfortable fashion with modern aesthetics and that is willing to spend extra money for high-quality, environmentally conscious products.

The female target of Stella McCartney, might be divided into two customer groups: 1. A growing part of the target is buying Stella McCartney due to the style & sustainability of the products, makes up for a highly loyal customer group (Mckesson, 2018).

2. A significantly larger target group buying the products due to style & luxury market recognition/ liking of luxury products/trend following (Mckesson, 2018).

Additionally, in an interview of Stella McCartney with Gwyneth done for the “Goop” podcast, Stella has mentioned the shift she has experienced from the previous generations to the generations Z and Y in the way they perceive the brand, from the way people interact with her personally. She has talked about the fact that the response to her brand upon its start has been more focused on it’s fashion attributes and the styles and cuts of the garments, whilst in the recent years the positive responses has been based majorly upon the sustainability benefits of it’s operations in contrast to other brands and the general idea if improvement in this area of the fashion segment. Stella has established that she has seen a huge change in the way consumers view sustainable fashion and fashion in general, making the environmental issues rise higher in their list of priorities when shopping.

BEHAVIOURAL As Stella McCartney is targeting both Gen X and Gen Y, the behavioural differences are easily established when comparing the two: 1. Gen Y only finds similarity with the parent generation (Gen X) in size of ‘members’, while the majority of aspects have developed quite differently. Generation Y is trustful, tolerant and better traveled and globally educated consumers, that the previous generation. Additionally, they highly support sociocultural causes and initiatives as well as socially responsible companies (Furlow, 2011). These consumers have moreover been identified as individualistic, well-educated, technologically experienced, mature and structured. Additionally, identity and self- expression becomes highly important factors for Generation Y. This identity expression often serves through shopping of distinctive brands that matches individual traits or values, and adds a highly materialistic character to this consumer cohort (Hanzaee and Aghasibeig, 2010) 2. Gen X, the parent generation, often makes up for a highly loyal customer base, which chooses specific point of sale and brand based upon experiences with both product and store (Abnett, 2015), while Millennials (Gen Y) tends to have a low brand loyalty.

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Figure (20): Extension of Magazines Analysis p. 42 Following list is according to Models.com considered clients of Stella McCartney (Models, Stella McCartney, n.d.).

• 10 Magazine (2010) • 25 Magazine (2013) • American Vogue (2017, 2012, 2010) • British Vogue (2012) • Harper’s Bazaar UK (2009) • Interview Magazine (2012) • Interview Russia (2013) • Love Magazine (2010) • Muse Magazine (2009) • Portrait (2015, 2014, 2012) • T Magazine China (2017) • The Business Of Fashion (2015) • Vanity Fair U.S. (2012) • Vogue Brasil (2008) • W Magazine (2014, 2009)

Figure (21): Extension of Social Media Analysis p. 39

Website (Stella McCartney, Sustainability, mission statement, n.d.)

The website is the most complete collection of all Stella McCartney related content over any type of social media. The segments do not only contain information on the fashion and product, generating sales, but also the brand mission aspect and a lot of useful segments devoted to sustainability, that stands in the core of the brand (Stella McCartney, Sustainability, mission statement, n.d.).

Instagram (Stella Mc- 5.3 million followers, 4 thousand posts of fashion shows, interviews, product Cartney, ney, n.d.)

stellamccart-

launches, brand vision statements, inspiration images. Overall very stylish and thought-through feed with signature editing style and captions matching the conscious products the brand distributes (Stella McCartney, stellamccartney, n.d.).

Facebook (Stella Mc- Facebook - 900.000 followers, 1 million likes. Posts about fashion shows, brand Cartney, @stellamccartney, n.d.)

inspirations, promotional videos and new lookbook releases, as well as charity work and campaigns, as well as extra unreleased content (Stella McCartney, @ stellamccartney, n.d.)

Twitter (Stella McCa- Twitter - 1 million followers, 11 thousand tweets. The tweets include backstage rtney, @StellaMcCartney, photos and more behind the scenes content, products releases, as well as brand n.d.) related articles and news (Stella McCartney, @StellaMcCartney, n.d.).

Youtube (Stella McCartney’s Youtube account, n.d.)

Youtube - 9 thousand followers, 291 videos. The videos are of behind the scenes short films, campaign videos, charity campaigns and promotions, brand related fashion films (Stella McCartney’s Youtube account, n.d.).

Tumblr (Stella McCa-

Twitter - 1 million followers, 11 thousand tweets. The tweets include backstage photos and more behind the scenes content, products releases, as well as brand related articles and news (Stella McCartney, @StellaMcCartney, n.d.).

rtney, stellamccartney. com, n.d.)

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ATTENTION

“AIDA” MODEL

Figure (22): Extension of the AIDA Model p. 46

An example of the attention strategy is this Summer 2018 campaign - both provocative and emotionally manipulative in terms of the awareness of plastic waste and pollution. It influences consumers to believe that to buy from Stella McCartney will support a good cause. This is also due to the brands collaboration with Parley for the Oceans in order to decrease plastic pollution in the ocean. (view below)

Stella McCartney summer 2018 campaign film (Stella McCartney, Stella McCartney reveals Summer 2018 ad campaign, 2018)

The winter 2017 Stella McCartney campaign film : (Stella McCartney, The Winter 2017 Stella McCartney Campaign Film | Full Edit, 2017)

“The idea we had with this campaign is to portray who we want to be and how we carry ourselves; our attitude and collective path,” - Stella McCartney. (Stella McCartney, Discover the winter 2017 campaign, 2017) Their winter 2017 campaign raises awareness on the ignorance of consumption by displaying models laying on a trash landfill. They do it through an emotional realisation on what is really happening in the industry and portraying their genuine concerns for environmental issues (view above).

This might influence consumers to be more aware of their consumption, waste and appreciate Stella’s values as a brand (Bauck, 2017).

INTEREST

Stella McCartney is gaining consumers interests through their environmental concerns combined with their feminine and simplicity style.

The brand has data on their efforts through their global environmental profit and loss account (Stella McCartney, 2016 Environmental Profit and Loss Account, 2016)

Stella McCartney also provides information, of their sustainable methods, on their brand’s social media accounts. For example their videos display environmental issues, that the brand acts on, which therefore interests those watching to also become concerned and partake in their efforts.

DESIRE

The brand creates a desire by answering consumers needs and wants of helping the environment and being transparent in their efforts. A desire, for consumers, is created to feel good about their consumption and good efforts. There is also a desire in terms of the brands feminine, confident and minimalistic styled garments. The consumers feel the need to be apart of the Stella McCartney community, where they are sharing strong values of being environmentally friendly and loving Stella’s style.

ACTION Consumers take action by purchasing Stella McCartney’s products. This is caused by wanting to pursue their needs and desires to feel feminine and confident in Stella’s fashion as well as being environmentally friendly. Again, purchasing from the brand makes customers feel good as they have contributed to a brand with good values and style. However not all who admire the brand are able to take action and purchase as the prices are high.

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