Marketing and Merchandising Plan: H&M by Alexandra Gonzalez Baldwin

WOMEN’S SWIMWEAR ADDITION Marketing and Merchandising: H&M “Conscious” Sustainable Swimwear Line Project

By: Alexandra Joan Gonzalez Baldwin BA Fashion Marketing & Communication Level 6, 2018-2019 6FAMK004C: Marketing Technique and Strategies Teacher/s: Alejandro González & Teresa Buhigas Word count: 3250

I N D E X:

THE CHALLENGE---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------P. 4 METHODOLOGY----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.5 INTERNAL ANALYSIS:----------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.6-38 BRAND OVERVIEW: RESULTS & MILESTONES:----------------------------------------------------------P.8-9 CURRENT STRATEGIC BASIS: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------P.10 BRAND POSITION:---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.11 CURRENT MARKETING MIX:---------------------------------------------------------------------------P.12-37 PRODUCT ANALYSIS-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.12-21 PRICE ANALYSIS-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.22-27 PRODUCT & PRICE CONCLUSION-----------------------------------------------------------------------P.28 DISTRIBUTION ANALYSIS-------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.29-31 COMMUNICATION ANALYSIS---------------------------------------------------------------------------P.32-37 COMING PRODUCT LINE--------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.38-39 EXTERNAL ANALYSIS:---------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.40-77 H&M CONSCIOUS STRENGTHS & WEAKNESSES ANALYSIS--------------------------------------------P.42-43 SOCIAL & TECHNOLOGICAL ANALYSIS----------------------------------------------------------------P.44-45 MARKET ANALYSIS--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.46-47 CONSUMER ANALYSIS----------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.48-50 OPPORTUNITIES & THREATS FROM MARKET----------------------------------------------------------P.51 INDIRECT COMPETITORS ANALYSIS-------------------------------------------------------------------P.52-59 DIRECT COMPETITORS ANALYSIS----------------------------------------------------------------------P.60-69 OPPORTUNITIES & THREATS FROM INDIRECT COMPETITORS----------------------------------------P.70 OPPORTUNITIES & THREATS FROM DIRECT COMPETITORS-------------------------------------------P.71 INDIRECT COMPETITOR POSITIONING ----------------------------------------------------------------P.72 DIRECT COMPETITOR POSITIONING -------------------------------------------------------------------P.73 BENCHMARK OPPORTUNITIES--------------------------------------------------------------------------P.74-75 ANALYSIS & CONCLUSION------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.76-77 STRATEGIC MARKETING PLAN:----------------------------------------------------------------------P.78-117 STRATEGIC BASIS---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.80 KEY PERFORMING INDICATORS------------------------------------------------------------------------P.80 COMPETITIVE STRATEGY------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.81 GROWTH STRATEGY-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.81 DIRECT COMPETITOR POSITIONING------------------------------------------------------------------P.82 PROPOSED DIRECT COMPETITOR POSITIONING-----------------------------------------------------P.83 PRODUCT PROPOSAL----------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.84-87 COLLECTION BOOK------------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.86-95 MARKETING MIX:------------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.96-111 PRODUCT----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.96-97 PRICE--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.98-99 PLACEMENT-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.100-107 PROMOTION------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------P. 108-111 LAUNCH PLAN----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.112-114 COORDINATION TEAM MANAGEMENT--------------------------------------------------------------P.115-117

2 ANNEX: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.118-147 WORK CITED:---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------P.148-154

Disclaimer: The majority of this paper’s research is conducted in February of 2019, which affects the analysis of swimwear.

THE CHALLENGE:

H&M, also known as Hennes & Mauritz, is a Swedish fashion brand that is part of the H&M Group. It is currently ranked second in top fast fashion brands around the globe. H&M sibling brands, in the H&M Group, are COS, Monki, Weekday, Cheap Monday, & Other Stories, Arket, and the new addition: AFound (H&M Group, n.d.). All brand in the H&M group are known for providing a minimalistic/scandinavian flavor to their fashion items. H&M has spread their minimalistic although trendy style to millions with affordable prices. They have recently been communicating their aim towards becoming sustainable both in their communication and with their “Conscious” line. In that line, they offer, as usual, a wide range of products for people of all ages and genders. Although, they are missing one important category which would attract those in the spring/summer, those going on vacation, and those in warmer climates, swimwear. The challenge of this plan is to develop the proposed sustainable swimwear category into one that is desirable by all H&M consumers. As sustainability is growing around the world (Haanaes, 2016), an increasing amount of fashion brands are implementing this into their collections. Currently, only a few of H&M’s direct competitors, which are fast fashion brands, are launching sustainable swimwear. Although, there are many other brands developing this product line. After thoroughly investigating the market and consumers, there is a growing interest for purchasing affordable sustainable swimwear, and H&M would benefit in implementing this category.

M E T H O D O L O G Y:

This Strategic Marketing plan will consist of primary research through interviews with H&M customers who have never bought from their ‘‘Conscious” line, as well as interviews with H&M “Conscious” customers. These interviews will give direct information regarding the customers desire for sustainable products and overall, what they would desire and expect from H&M. This will also provide for qualitative data. Secondary resources will be found through the brands’ online website, their communication, as well as reports and articles. This quantitative and qualitative data will be used in order to support arguments in this document.

INTERNAL ANALYSIS:

6 (H&M Group, n.d)

"We don't aim for sustainability to be a luxury thing.”- Helena Helmersson, H&M’s head of sustainability (Elks, 2014)

“When you feel the materials against your skin, you can't believe what they once were,” Christy Turlington on H&M’s Conscious Exclusive 2018 collection. (Newbold, 2018)

B R A N D O V E R V I E W: Currently, H&M has not been succeeding as it once was. It has admitted to an error in their strategy in not tackling the important online shift. In 2018, they stated that they would close 170 shops; however, will continue to open 390 new ones in more strategic markets. “Shares in H&M closed down 11 per cent at SKr139.34, their lowest level since 2008” (Milne, 2018).

2012: Conscious line launches to 100 stores worldwide with exclusive pieces additionally sold online

2010: H&M named the #1 buyer of Organic Cotton & continues to be currently

(Weigle, 2012)

(Ecouterre, 2012)

2010: On January 6, it was reported that unsold or refunded clothing and other items in one NYC store were cut up before being discarded, presumably to precent resale or use

(Global Change Award, 2017) 2014: Conscious Exclusive collaboration with EVER Manifesto

(H&M Group, 2014) 2013: H&M launches garment collection program that allows customers to drop off used clothing at its stores (H&M group, n.d.)

2015: H&M South Africa division had been accused with racism for lack of black models in their photoshoots, later stating that white models convey a more “positive image” than black models

(Dwyer, 2010) 2010: 2012: 21 workers died H&M was in a fire at H&M reported to supplier factory have stolen an Garib & Garib, artist’s work, which lacked using it on critical safety multiple items elements, includwithout coming proper fire pensating the exits. artist. (Hickman, 2010)

2015: Initiates the H&M non-profit Foundation -to drive long lasting, positive change and improve living conditions by investing in people, communities and innovative ideas. focuses on four areas: Education, Water, Equality and Planet. In addition to this, it can also provide emergency relief.

2014: Launches new Conscious & Conscious Exclusive collections with organic leather from the Swedish leather supplier Tärnsjö, and organic silk

(Bhasin, 2012)

(Maune, 2015)

(Pr Newswire, 2014)

2016: Competitive threats from Inditex. Unveiled a major program, including the development of new textile fibers and a wide-scale domestic recycling project. (Gould, 2017)

2015: Report shows that H&M’s best supply chain contract factories “have failed to meet mandated timeframes for repairs and the majority of all renovations have still not been completed despite lapsed deadlines” (Public Eye, 2015)

2016: Sales growth at H&M start to falter, culminating in its biggest sales slump on record in the last quarter of 2017. Its share price slumped, and key investors began selling off stock. (Hanbury, 2018)

Since Inditex, the owner of Zara, overtook H&M as the world’s biggest clothes retailer six years ago, H&M’s shares have fallen by a third while the Spanish group’s has doubled.”. It is also found that “Analysts at Morgan Stanley noted that H&M ended the year with net debt for the first time in more than two decades.”(Milne, 2018). 2017: Pledges to use only recycled or green materials in its products by 2030. H&M also said it will work to reduce more greenhouse gas emissions than it emits, with the aim of becoming climate positive throughout its entire value chain by 2040

2016: GreenPeace lists H&M, Inditex and Benneton “Detox Avant-Garde” businesses and commemorates them for their sustainable efforts

(Brodde, 2016)

(Diderich, 2017)

2016 & 2017: named one of the most ethical companies in the world by the Ethisphere Institute. (Robertson, 2019)

2018: Aquafil and H&M collaboration. ECONYL® yarn, Aquafil’s regenerated nylon made also from waste diverted from landfills and oceans. two industry leaders with a shared vision for a more sustainable future.

2017: Based on the 2017 Ethical Fashion Report, H&M received the top score of ‘A+’ for its Supplier Code of Conduct, although the code only applies to part of its supply chain. It also received a score of ‘A+’ for its transparency and ability to trace most of its suppliers. (Robertson, 2019)

(Econyl, 2018)

(Farmbrough, 2018) 2018: H&M has been going through a rough patch recently. Its shares stand at a 5 year low while last year, it recorded its first fall in quarterly sales for more than two decades. Over the 2017 financial year, sales growth was little over 3%. The company has admitted it got its stock orders wrong at the H&M brand, leading to the need for widespread clearance sales.

(Farmbrough, 2018) 2017: A documentary on Danish t.v., Operation X, alleged that H&M had been accused of burning 12 tonnes of unsold but usable clothes. Bloomberg also reported that H&M was burning discarded clothing alongside recycled wood and trash at the Västerås combined heat and power station

(Bowman, 2019) In 2017, it said it will close more stores than ever before

2017: Advertising Failure- Released a catalogue photograph in which a little black boy wears a hoodie bearing the slogan “coolest monkey in the jungle”. The internet blew up in anger and the Economic Freedom Fighters staged protests at H&M shops in the Western Cape, prompting H&M to announce it would close all its shops in the country until further notice. The Weeknd and G-Eazy boycotted the company by ending their partnershops with H&M over the image

2018: H&M is called out, by the Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC), for failing to pay all its workers a fair, living wage by 2018. They are accusing the H&M Group of trying to hide its unfulfilled commitments regarding living wages in its 2017 Sustainability Report and are awaiting H&M’s response to their lack of transaparent care towards the issue.

(West, 2018)

(Hendriksz, 2018)

It currently has over $4 billion worth of clothing and analysts are skeptical as to how the company will get rid of this. (Hanbury, 2018)

CURRENT STRATEGIC BASIS: H&M’s target is broad as they offer many different product categories to millions of people around the world. Their product selection offers apparel, cosmetics, home goods and more for babies, teenagers, pregnant women, and overall adults of both the female and male gender. They can attract people of all ages, due to their low prices and trendy products, although they mainly target women, as they consume the most (Academia, n.d.), between the ages of 15-30. Although, as their products are segmented into different lines by different styles/occassions/and trends for age groups, each line has a targeted age group. For instance, their Divided line targets teenage young girls due to the style and pricing. H&M aims to “deliver fashion and quality at the best price-to everyone, in a sustainable way- today, tommorow, and in the future”. They vision “to lead the change towards a circular and renewable fashion industry, while being a fair and equal company.” In terms of values, the brand states that in all they do,“sustainability is a natural part” and that “‘When we do business “the H&M way” we do so ethically, honestly and responsibly. We continually encourage our suppliers and other business partners to do the same”’ . Their focus on commmunicating sustainability in their mission, vision, and values differentiated them from not only their direct competitors, but all fashion brands as they also aim to provide sustainable products in low prices, making it affordable for almost everyone (The H&M Way, n.d.) (Uriarte Elizaga, 2016). The brand also differentiates from others in providing a wide range of products in a Scandinavian/minimalistic style. Despite them offering many different style segments for different people, all of their garments remain simplisitc, and their stores and communication emit the same theme. This conistency, with also their consistent low prices, makes their brand coherent and reliable.

BRAND POSITION: Currently, H&M’s mission, vision, and values of sustainability are questioned. This is due to H&M being one of the largest fashion retailers who have succeeded with a low cost business model; which consequently has exploited workers in developing countries, has used low-cost materials, and encourages mass-consumption. It is also believed that their “Conscious” collecton and ‘close the loop’ recycling clothing bins are solely a strategy to distract customers from the problems of its fast production system, in a time of sustainable awareness. In addition, as “H&M offers discount vouchers to incentivise customers to donate clothing”, it “only fuels more clothing consumption (as the vouchers are only valid in H&M) and exacerbates the problems of our throwaway society” (Nini, 2018). The brand is either believed to be greenwashing, is actually trying to be sustainable, or is trying to be sustainable, however will not be able to with their current model.

CURRENT MARKETING MIX: PRODUCT ANALYSIS

This marketing mix, beggining with Product, will analyze both the Conscious and Conscious Exclusive line, as well as womenswear and women’s swimwear for the strategic implementation of a new swimwear category for the Conscious and Conscious Exclusive lines. Upcoming back-up data is shown in Annex: Figure 2.

In 2012, H&M released its first Consicous collection, which consists now of a wide range of fashion garments, such as blouses, dresses, jackets, pants, underwear and more. The style of this collection is constructed out of durable fabrics such as organic cotton, linen, hemp and jute and recycled polyester, wool, plastic and other materials (Elks, 2014) (Weigle, 2012).

(H&M, 2019)

This chart displays the top product categories of solely the “Conscious” collection. This line consists of 24 categories. TOP 3: 1. Tops 25% (117/465 ref) 2. Dresses & Blouses 9% (42/465 ref) 3. Pants 8% (38/456 ref) Therefore, their main focus is on upperwear.

(H&M, n.d)

Released every Spring/Summer, their Conscious Exclusive capsule collection collaborates with an organization who represents an old artistic design , whether it be with the Louvre Museum’s exhibition of three centuries of style in 2016, or with the Arts and Crafts Movement in Sweden that is inpried by the creative home of 19th and 20th century artists Karin and Carl Larsson (About H&M, 2014) (McCarthy, 2016). The products that result from their inspiration are made of innovative sustainable materials such as organic linen, organic cotton, organic silk, TENCEL™, recycled polyester, and recently ECONYL®, a 100% regenerated nylon fibre made from fishnets and other nylon waste (Fashion notes by Triinu, 2018). The purpose of the Exclusive collection is for it to bring a special designed limited collection made by high quality fabrics and dramatic intricately details inspired by flamenco and bohemia to those who desire elegant and high-quality felt fashion pieces. Originally, this collection was meant for the red carpets (Whitelocks, 2013). Overall, there are less product references than their Conscious collection as it is more exclusive.

(H&M, 2019)

This Conscious Exclusive collection is small, consisting of only 15 references of 7 categories. This chart displays the top product categories of solely the Conscious Exclusive collection. TOP 3: 1. Blouse 27% (4/15 ref) 2. The rest are tied, with exclusion to coats. All have 2 references out of 15, while there is only 1 coat.

This chart is a combination of the Conscious and Conscious Exclusive’s product references. In total the Conscious line consists of 480 references and 24 categories. TOP 3: 1. Tops 25% (119/480 ref) 2. Blouse 10% (46/480 ref) 3. Dresses 9% (44/480 ref)

(H&M, 2019)

This is an overall analysis of womenswear product references. TOP 3: Tops: 12% (679/ 5903 ref) Dresses: 11% (640/ 5903 ref) Sweaters: 10% (603/ 5903 ref) Swimwear, accounts for 4% of the total references as it is 245/5903 (as shown in Annex: Figure 2).

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(H&M, 2019)

H&M Women’s Swimwear

Diverse styles

TOP 3: 1. Bikini Tops 42% (103/244 ref) 2. Bikini Bottoms 36% (88/244 ref) 3. Swimsuits 18% (43/244 ref)

H&M Swimwear Sizing: Bikini Tops: 32-48 (XXS-XL) Bikini Bottoms: 32-48 (XXS-XL) Swimwuits: 34-46 (XS-L) Colors: yellow, blue, beige, white, gray, violet, brown, multi, orange, black, red, pink, turquoise, green

H&M follows the latest color trends, although focuses its colection’s swimwear colors on the most common colors which are black, white, blue, red and multi-colors in chronological order.

(H&M, 2019)

Overall, Womenswear consists of 5,903 references, with 465 being Conscious and 15 being Conscious Exclusive. Therefore, 92% of products are womenswear, while 8% are Conscious and less than 1% is Conscious Exclusive.

This analysis will be used for the upcoming Conscious and Conscious Exclusive Swimwear line.

CURRENT MARKETING MIX: PRICE ANALYSIS

Priced the lowest at 1.99 is personal-care products, while dresses are priced highest at 159 eur. In terms of the “Conscious” line’s most frequented price for each category, most fall below 25 euros. The minimum mode price (most frequently referenced) is 9.99 eur for Underwear, Cardigans, Scarves and T-shirts, while the highest is 92.66 eur for Shoes. Overall, the prices range from 1.99-199 eur.

(H&M, 2019)

Overall, prices range from 12.9989.99 eur. Bras and underwear are the least priced at 12.99 eur, while coats, pants, and dresses are the highest priced at 89.99 eur. The mode price for this collection is majorily in the 67.50-89.99 eur range.

(H&M, 2019)

Overall, as would be expected, the “Conscious Exclusive” has higher prices than the “Conscious” line for the categories they share. Conscious Exclusives bras’ are the only most frequented price that is less than the Conscious bras’. Overall, the minimum mode price is 9.99 eur which consists of scarves, cardigans, t-shirts, and underwear; while the maximum is 92.66 eur which consists of the shoe category. The price range, overall, ranges from 1.99-199 eur for both Conscious lines.

TOP 3 referenced of both the Conscious and Conscious Exclusive line: 1. Tops 2. Blouse 3. Dresses Price comparison: Conscious

Price comparison: Conscious Exclusive

1. Tops: 4.49-42.99 2. Blouse: 19.99- 99.00 3. Dresses: 9.99-199.00

1. Tops: 29.99-49.99 2. Blouse: 59.99-69.99 3. Dresses: 69.99-89.99

The markup price from Conscious to Conscious Exclusive is not consistent with the maximum price given, although this may be due to a lack of Conscious Exclusive garments to analyze on the website. Overall, analyzing the starting price between the two, the Exclusive line is around 85% more than the Conscious.

(H&M, 2019)

In terms of Womenswear’ the most frequented price ranges from 7.99-49.99 eur. Most prices fall below 37.50 eur. Scarves is the only category with the most 7.99’s (the minimum), while Coats holds the maximum at 49.99 eur. Overall, womenswear ranges from 1.99-299 eur. 26

Swimwear prices range from 5.9934.99 eur, with swim accessories such as Sarongs, Kaftans, and Scarves being 5.99 and Swimsuits reaching the maximum price of 34.99. In terms of which price was most referenced: Bikini Tops: 17.99 eur Bikini Bottoms: 9.99 eur Swimsuits: 24.99 eur Others: 5.99 eur

(H&M, 2019)

P R O D U C T & P R I C E C O N C L U S I O N:

Overall, based on the analysis, these are the facts: PRODUCT: • There is more Conscious references and categories than Conscious Exclusive • The Conscious and Conscious Exclusive line is included in 8% of total womenswear • Conscious is approximately 7.88 % of women’swear • Conscious Exclusive is approximately .25% of women’swear • Women’s Swimwear takes up 4% of women’swear PRICE: Women’s Consious line: 1.99-199 eur. Least priced: Personal-care products Highest priced: Dresses Women’s Consious Exclusive line: 12.99-89.99 eur Least priced: Bras and Underwear Highest priced: Coats, Pants, and Dresses In terms of the most referenced products in womenswear, a price analysis is determined based on Womenswear to Conscious and Conscious Exclusive pricing (Annex: Figure 3). Based on the price comparison, and statements found from H&M such as “ H&M is not passing on the extra cost of more sustainable materials to its customers” and that they brand has“been working with organic cotton for a really long time, and that extra price is not paid by the consumer but rather by us. We believe that that is simply an investment in the product and in what our customers are expecting from us,”(Diderich, 2017); it proves that their Conscious line is not not meant to be priced higher than their normal garments, although their Conscious Exclusive line is is meant to be more exclusive, artistic, and innovative. The Exclusive line is around 85% more, in price, than the Conscious.

D I S T R I B U T I O N A N A L Y S I S:

In-store displays of swimwear, in February of 2019 in Barcelona’s flagship store, as well as garments labeled with the H&M Conscious tag.

H&M swimwear display as of February 2019 in Barcelona’s flagship store. 30

As of November 30 2018, H&M has 4,968 stores around the world in 71 markets. 47 countries currently sell H&M online. Out of all of the countries, H&M has the most POS in the US, China, and Germany. The brand also has 255 franchised stores in the United Arab Emirates, Kuwait, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Egypt, Bahrain, Oman, Lebanon, Israel, Morocco, Jordan, Thailand and Indonesia (H&M group, 2018).

In terms of their Conscious collection, no precise information was attained in how many global stores it is displayed in (as they did not respond); although, it is reasonable to assume that it is placed globally as H&M states that “The Conscious Exclusive collection launches in selected H&M stores around the world, as well as online at hm.com, on 19 April 2018” (H&M Group, 2018). Store clusters include: • Own Stores • Shopping Malls • Airport Stores It is very interesting that H&M does not have an allocated section for their “Conscious” line. The line is spread into different areas based on their affiliations or style. For instance, “Conscious” cardigans are placed with normal cardigans, and the jungle/earthy styled clothes have the most Conscious garments as the current Conscious colorings go with that theme. This may be due to H&M not wanting to create a bad feeling/stigma that the rest of their clothes are not “sustainable”. They also may want to mix their “Conscious” styles amongst the styles they pertain to for customers to easier find. It gives customers the opportunity to choose whether they want a normal product or a sustainable one around the store, and have the option of getting an added ‘bonus’. Pictures of the “Conscious” display are shown in Annex: Figure 1. In addition, all four stores visited in Barcelona had very little Conscious products displayed. They all were allocated the same. One store employee even stated, incorrectly, that we only have “4 Conscious garments”. As there are more than 400 Conscious references online, the collection is not properly communicated and displayed in the physical stores. It is also interesting that Zara does not have a section for their sustainable garments as well, they are spread by style. In terms of the Conscious Exclusive line, there were not any products in-stores, this may due to the new collection being released in April; therefore last year’s colllection may not be available anymore. As this AdHoc research is conducted in February, the swimwear selection, in-stores, was not wide. The few garments were placed next to the lingerie section in all stores visited (as shown to the left and on page 29 ). A sales associate stated that as these months are cooler the stock is smaller, however come May a wide selection of swimwear will be placed in the lingerie area as well as in the accessory area next to cashiers. According to this statement, it seems as though H&M allocates a certain amount of swimwear pieces based on the store’s climate and seasonal desires. 31

C O M M U N I C A T I O N A N A L Y S I S:

H&M communicates omnichannel, as it is the most effecient and necessary modern method of communicating globally. Their “Conscious” line, however, is lacking and is only communicated to specific and very few platforms. They mostly use social media to communicate their “Conscious Exclsuive” line. There are no “Conscious” posts by the brand, only “Conscious Exclusive”. This may be due to their desire to prove that their more exclusive and eye-catching products are not only extravagent but are also sustainable, innovative, and artistic. Each Conscious Exclusive post is hashtagged with #HMConsciousExclusive. The garments shown on their Instagram posts are also available for purchase as as by tapping the garment, the price will be shown and will redirect the viewer to H&M’s online store. They also include the products’ reference number in the caption. The styling of their Conscious posts on all platforms have been nature themed, minimalistic, and urban styled. They all tell stories and include engaging captions on their social medias. Also in their videos, there is a fantasy theme that blends with the beauty of nature.

PAID: • Uses well-known actresses, models, musicians and/or activists in their advertisements such as Vanessa Paradis, Iggy Pop, M.I.A and Christy Turlington. • Selectively publishes T.V commercials such as Vanessa Paradis in 2013 (styling: dream-like, nature, Alice in Wonderland) (H&M Conscious Collection TV Commercial Featuring Vanessa Paradis, 2013) • Has partaken in mobile video ads within the Hulu Plus iPhone application displaying 15-second clips of a variety of looks from the retailer’s new Conscious clothing line’s. Prices for items flash across the screen, and consumers can click a button in the upper right-hand corner to be directed to the collection’s page on H&M’s mobile site (Johnson, n.d.) • Previously paid for print magazine features, for instance in The Evening Standard and Metro, in 2014 to promote the “Conscious” range of sustainable clothes, as well as to highlight their clothes recycling service with a monetary reward (Vizard, 2014)

O W N E D: Email Newsletter, Own Website, Own App, H&M Magazine, Launch Celebrations for “Conscious Exclusive” In-store promotion: None for Conscious collection, only for recycling In terms of in-store communication of their “Conscious” and “Conscious Exclusive” line, the brand is lacking. The brand does not communicate which area of their store is dedicated to which collection. It is up to the customer to approach which area their eyes are attracted to. The customer attains information regarding the collection once looking at the tag and seeing whether the piece is from the “Divided” section or the “Conscious”/”Conscious Exclusive” collection. The brand, from current AdHoc reseach, communicates their recycling efforts upon entering or seeing the store from outside, as they have placed door and window signs stating that 10 euros will be given for each bag of clothing given for recycling. This communicates their vision for sustainability and encouragement of recycling, however there is no advertisements made of their recycled “Conscious” garments in their store, only on the tag.

Above: Well known actresses/models at H&M’s 2018 Conscious Exclusive Collection Launch Celebration (Fashionsizzle, 2018) Left: Poster in New York advertising H&M’s Conscious Exclusive launch and in-store display (Extra, n.d.) 35

E A R N E D: Sustainable activists and sustainable organizations have independently comemorated the brand with their efforts and discuss their new Conscious collections. Although H&M is not fully trusted by everyone, many criticize their current business model and believe their efforts are not viable or is greenwashing (Bain, 2016).

S H A R E D: Social Media: Instagram (29 million followers) (Instagram, n.d.), Twitter (8.5 million followers) (Twitter, n.d.), Facebook (36 million likes) (Facebook, n.d.), Pinterest (10 million+ monthly viewers) (Pinterest, n.d.), Youtube (367k subscribers) (YouTube, n.d.), Snapchat (Twitter, 2016) Also shared physical events such as Copenhagen Fashion Summit 2018 Exhibition of “Conscious” line (Böhlke, n.d.)

Main forms of communicating their “Conscious” collection have been through their Youtube page and Instagram. Youtube: Campaign Videos (e.g: 2018 Christy Turlington “Choose Consciously, Choose Beautifully” nature inspired, focused on the beauty of the environment) (H&M Conscious Exclusive collection 2018 – campaign film, 2018) Instagram: Reposts models wearing looks from their campaigns, a short look at their campaign video, and rarely reposts Instagrammers who style their looks

Conscious apparel (Instagram, 2019)

(YouTube, n.d.)

C O M I N G P R O D U C T L I N E:

H&M’S current price, design style, distribution, and communication strategies are the measurements that will be used for the new “Conscious” and “Conscious Exclusive” Swimwear collection. This line is inspired by the minimalistic but trendy style transmitted throughout H&M’s collections. Primary research, discussed ahead, will give the student more insight on how consumers imagine sustainable swimwear for H&M. As their current swimwear collection runs from 5.99-34.99 euros and takes up 4% of women’swear, this will be considered as a guideline for their Concious line. Also when creating merchandise for the “Conscious Swimwear” and “Conscious Exclusive Swimwear”, the line will differentiate in price, style, and references.

NEW PRODUCT: COMING SOON

E X T E R N A L A N A L Y S I S:

“One-fifth of LVMH Group is not thrown into a landfill every year; it’s one-fifth of H&M.” (Amed et al., 2019)

H&M CONSCIOUS STRENGTHS& W E A K N E S S E S A N A L Y S I S:

STRENGTHS:

WEAKNESSES:

• H&M has 4,433 physical stores in 71 countries • Made mistakes with product design and comand sells online in 47 countries munication-offending many (ex: monkey shirt on a black little boy-racist connotation) • H&M is the second most successful fast fashion brand in the world • Many still believe H&M cannot become sustainable or their efforts are green-washing • H&M is part of the H&M group which consists of many succesful brands such as Weekday, Arket, • Does not comunicate their “Conscious” line and Monki (H&M group, n.d.) effectively • Sells many different lines that target different targets • Mission, vision and values portray a persistent goal towards sustainability

• Many believe, from AdHoc, that their “Conscious” garments are not fashionable and are only good as basics

• AdHoc Research also shows that their “Conscious” line is seen as more expensive & should • Has the widest range of affordable & sustainable not be for being H&M clothes than competitors • Large range of swimwear year round • Collaborates with famous celebrities in their communication • Is the only fast-fashion brand to collaborate on capsule collections with high-end designers (Harper’s BAZAAR, 2018)

• Currently, has great in-store promotion for their recycling and reward program

G L O B A L A N A L Y S I S: For this research and proposal, the social and technological aspects are most useful, therefore the political and economical analysis has been placed in the Annex: Figure 4 .

S O C I A L: Currently, people around the world are increasingly becoming more aware of the actions and effects of not only entities and governments, but by people in general. This has caused a hightened desire for transparency and more sustainable methods to be shown and implemented. People, and especially younger generations, are worried about the current and future global climate, therefore desire to support businesses who implement values such as sustainability. Overall,: • The lifespan of the fashion product is becoming more elastic as pre-owned, refurbished, repair and rental business models continue to evolve. • Simply put, young people today crave newness, and these cohorts are much more likely to embrace churn in their wardrobes. At the same time younger generations are more interested in sustainable clothing than older consumers. Rental, resale and refurbishment models lengthen the product lifecycle while offering the newness consumers desire. • Consumers from some, but not all markets will reward players that take a strong stance on social and environmental issues beyond traditional CSR. • After years of having personal data owned and handled by businesses, a more distrusting consumer now expects companies to reciprocate with radical transparency and sharing of information. • There are growing numbers of B-Corporations, which are certified to have considered the impact of their decisions on people, society and the planet. • Consumers want to support brands that are doing good in the world, with 66 percent willing to pay more for sustainable goods. Some 42 percent of millennials say they want to know what goes into products and how they are made before they buy, compared with 37 percent of Gen Z.7 (Amed et al., 2019)

T E C H N O L O G I C A L: In 2018, 355-460 million people use the internet; however by 2021 this number is predicted to double when more than 900 million Indian consumers will be online. This increase in Indian users is due to the countries exponentially growing population and middle class. Due to this increase, the growth in the apparel sector is being driven by increasing tech-savviness among consumers.As technology is globally becoming a way of navigating life, fashion retailers are and have been advancing their efforts to communicate efficiently and rapidly to potential consumers. • Consumers are “mobile obsessed” • It is important to enhance the in-store experience with digital marketing displays and improved check-out (e.g: Madura Fashion & Lifestyle launched the “Van Heusen Style Studio,” which uses augmented reality to display outfits on customers). • E-commerce leaders are moving to AI-based solutions. “Personalisation and curation, based on personal taste will become a lot more important,” “It’s not about having the largest selection, it’s about presenting the most appropriate selection to the customer involved.” • Smart technological innovations using sustainable materials to make sustainable textiles ex: coffee ground fibres, pinneaple fabric, banana fabric, etc… • Fashion retailers are collaborating with companies who are developing more sustainable fibres and textiles from clothes and waste (such as plastic bottles). The recycled technology is growing in innovation. (Amed et al., 2019) (Preuss, 2017)

M A R K E T A N A L Y S I S: SUSTAINABILITY & S W I M W E A R M A R K E T: • The global market for swimwear and beachwear is projected to reach 2.4 billion units worth approximately US$24.3 billion by 2024, driven by the growing affinity for active and healthy lifestyle activities such as swimming, and the strong preference for beachside vacations. Also poised to benefit growth in the market is the launch of multifunctional cover-up swimwear and beachwear designed to double up as semi-casual wear for pool parties and outfoor venues (Global Industry Analysts, 2019) • “The three main barriers preventing consumers from purchasing sustainable fashion according to the report were: lack of knowledge and visibility of sustainable clothing, the high price attached to sustainable fashion and ‘limited’ style.” (Nini, 2018) • The fashion industry is also one of the most polluting industries in the world (Perry, 2018). • “Sustainability is gaining traction in the fashion world. Consumers, particularly Millennials and Generation Zs, are becoming increasingly aware of the challenges of sustainability, leading to changes in shopping habits and expectations for better, more sustainable products and new ways of consuming fashion.” (Nini, 2018) • The widespread adoption of Econyl and Repreve by Unifi fibres represents market desire for sustainable alternatives (Seafoam, 2016) • To the right are a few indie swimwear brands that are gaining traction from providing sustainable swimwear (Redemption Market, 2019)

(Statista, 2018)

S U S T A I N A B L E S W I M M A T E R I A L S:

MOST COMMON= Econyl: is an Italian-made nylon crafted from pre-and-post-consumer waste including carpets, plastic scraps and recycled fishing nets (peppermint magazine, 2018). ECONYL® goes after waste containing a high percentage of Nylon 6. Econyl® creates the yarn which Carvico weaves into the softest eco swimwear fabric available offering excellent UV protection. Both Econyl® and Carvico utilize top of the line environmentally certified and accredited technology to manufacture their products. transformed into luxuriously soft lycra (Econyl, n.d.). AKA Recycled Polyamide, Regenerated Nylon Yarn & Vita Lycra

REPREVE Polyester AKA Recycled polyester: is produced with recycled plastic bottles. Using this source, we reduce the plastic waste by giving it a new life (Unifi, n.d.). Sustainable Swim Textiles: - Refrains from using PVC which is non-biodegradable - Which prevents: Micro Fibers & Micro Plastics- caused by plastic/oil based textiles entering the water and polluting it as it does not decompose - Are produced ethically - Ideally uses recycled products to up-cycle 47

C O N S U M E R A N A L Y S I S:

H&M Women’s “Conscious” Consumer Those who have bought H&M’s Conscious products: Generally looks for: • Good quality- long lasting • Nice/soft feel • Perfect for basics • Simplistic style • Trendy • Colorful • Options for occasions • Would pay a bit extra for sustainable For Swimwear: • Soft • Breathable • Adjustable • Fitting for everyone • Neutral tones • Trendy colors • Sexy but comfortable

Interview questions and a further analysis are shown in the Annex: Figure 6

H&M Women’s General Consumer Those who have bought product at H&M: Generally looks for: • Expensive looking • Trendy • Color variety • Unique looking • Affordable • Minimalistic style • Nice/soft feel For Swimwear: • Trendy • Colorful • Adjustable • Comfortable • Looks and feels of good quality • Size equality • Sexy but comfortable

Overall, both types of consumers would want to see these factors in the Conscious swim line: • Nice/soft feel • Comfortable but feels sexy • Trendy • Color variety • Is adjustable • And fits nicely on every body type In addition, • They believe that the Conscious collection needs to be advertised more and placed better in the stores & • Would pay a bit extra if it says “Sustainable”, although only around 5-10% more

Swimwear liked by almost all of the intervewees from H&M’s current swimwear collection.

MARKET ANALYSIS OPPORTUNITIES & THREATS: OPPORTUNITIES: • The swimwear market is increasing exponentially • Sustainabile efforts are now becoming a necessity for businesses to implement- Sustainable Swimwear • As transparency is desired from more brands, H&M could communicate in more depth the behind-the-scenes actions of their sustainable efforts • The brand could work with Econyl and Repreve materials for Conscious swimwear • Communicate Conscious line and Conscious Swimwear on social media (e.g Instagram/Facebook ad’s), as “consumers are ‘mobile obsessed’” • Aim towards being B-certified and eventually accomplish that (Certified B Corporation, n.d.) • Eventually implement new sustainable fibres (e.g pineapple leather) into H&M Conscious line • Implementing interviewee’s insight on desiring trendy, comfortable, adjustable, and soft feel swimwear to Conscious line • Also, making the Conscious swimwear visible and placed in hot-spots for consumers to better find and reach

THREATS: • Indie swimwear brands could gain traction and market share • Disbelievers or haters of H&M can call out the brand for ‘green-washing’, loosing brand and “Conscious” attractiveness • If H&M Conscious continues with basic, non-colorful, non-trendy garmentsconsumers will not be attracted to the line or its swimwear

INDIRECT COMPETITORS ANALYSIS:

STRENGTHS:

WEAKNESES:

- As of 2018, the brand had 2,200 stores in 96 countries - Unique designs: elegant, shows quality, nice finishing - Large variety of products for occasions - Strong brand presence - Brand has stayed away from controversies & has reacted in a humble manner - Great Supply Chain: from concept to store in 2 weeks - Always trendy-most trendy store on the market - Low cost and higher profits: relies completely on trendy image and barely feels the need to advertise - Nice store layout- based on styles and gives an open feel due to space - Join Life products are trendier and more colorful

- Generalized collection: does not specialize in anything (just affordability & trends) - Lack of advertising- could pull in more revenue from it - Low safety stock: if a product is highly desired not everyone will be able to have it as it is quickly replaced - Website ease and organizationcould be improved - Swimwear is not available for viewing in February (only 2 womenswear references found through ‘search’)- Zara a brand which is “season-less” does not transmit that with their swimwear

OPPORTUNITIES:

THREATS:

- Low advertising - Making e-commerce site easier to - High and powerful competitors navigate - Reach and penetration - Also collaborating with other e-com- Rising cost of raw materials merce websites or entering shop-inshops/smaller displays (Bhasin, 2018) - Growing market potential in extisting markets: more stores desired - Market expansion in developing countries - Expand “Join Life” product line to swimwear, for instance

PRODUCT: “Join Life” Sustainable Line since 2015 (Zara, n.d.) 230 product references (Zara, 2019) Only 2 swimwear references online in February (not “Join Life”) (Zara, n.d.) PRICE: Join Life: 5.95-69.95 eur Swimwear: 5.99-25.95 eur

COMPETITORS ANALYSIS : MANGO

STRENGTHS:

WEAKNESES:

- 2,200 stores in 109 countries -Controversies over designs of - Strong brand presence some products has invited lawsuits -Strong diversification strategies: inviting considerable criticism expandedto other segments, such from the fashion industry as menswear - Unused/unsold inventory in new - Unique designs focused on being market of Asia comfortable, trendy, long-lasting, - Inability to adapt to new markets: and durability not as successful as in Europe - Also releases new products every - Swimwear is currently hard to 2 weeks find on their website - Mango’s current online swimwear selection is small (only 9) OPPORTUNITIES: - Does not have a sustainable line - Focusing on other product cateTHREATS: gories such as eyewar, fragrances, ad shoes in emerging new markets - Strong and large competitors - Diversify further into other product lines to make it a lifestyle - Still is seen mostly as a women’s brand, should be modified brand - Emerging new designers - Should study foreign markets cultural style and adapt it to their product selection (Bhasin, 2018) (MBA Skool, n.d.)

“Mango Committed is a carefully designed collection for women integrated by fashion garments committed to the environment. A capsule composed of minimal style garments characterized by using unstructured silhouettes and innovative volumes that infuse a modern air to the proposal.” (MANGO, n.d.)

PRODUCT: “Committed” Since 2017 20 Product References (Mango, n.d.) 9 Swimwear currently online (not “Committed”) (Mango, n.d.) PRICE: Committed: 17.99-99.99 euros Swimwear: 15.99-35.99 eur

COMPETITORS ANALYSIS :GAP

STRENGTHS:

WEAKNESES:

- 1,700+ Gap stores worldwide in 70 countries - Flagship brand of a large and strong network of fashion brands (e.g: Banana Republic, Old Navy, & Athleta) - Presence of timeless iconic products - Known for their denim - Segmented stores for kids - Global brand recognition & multibrand portfolio - Large selection of swimwear with some trendy pieces

- Decreasing brand popularity - Declining sales and profits - Increasing competition - Low product variety - Still hasn’t penetrated into the emerging economies market - No signs of sustainable efforts in stores or online - Sustainably made clothes are confusing and hard to find (as shown on next page) - Most of their swimwear pieces are geared towards a more conservative target. - Swimwear pieces are pricier than competitors mentioned

OPPORTUNITIES: - International market expanTHREATS: sion in Asia - E-commerce improvements - Decline in sales & profit - Celebrity endorsement - Management not able to improve - Boost sales through online the business promotion and shopping on - Competitors the brand - Brands offering more fashionable - Implementing a sustainable clothing at better value product line - Rapid changing fashion trends - Improving their online com- - Rising production costs can put a munication and PR efforts dent in the profits of the brand

(Bhasin, 2018) (Dudovskiy, 2016) (MBA Skool, n.d.)

PRODUCT: GAP does not have a sustainable line, however offers in a confusing and disorganized manner clothes based off of the categories to the right. It is confusing as these categories are shown in different value offerings. (Gap, n.d.) 157 Non-sustainable Swimwear Product (Gap, n.d.) PRICE: Swimwear: $15-$61

Top 3, are trendy and simplistic, while the bottom and majority of the rest of their selection are not trendy and are more focused on comfort.

COMPETITORS ANALYSIS :UNIQLO

STRENGTHS:

WEAKNESES:

- More than 1300 stores in 15 countries - Visionary leader has expanded the brand successfully - Strong branding with consistent positioning - Textile innovations differentiate them - Sound Operational Strategy: owns their value chain & has stable relationships with suppliers - Superior in-store experience due to strict employee-customer interaction

- Inability to penetrate successfully in foreign markets (especially USA) - Weather sensitive apparel lacked global adaptability and could not be sold at all in the US - Supply Chain issues: share in e-commerce is just 4% of its total business - Does not have a wide range of swimwear - Swimwear is not trendy and resembles sportswear - Swim is only available on US website (with only 4 references)

OPPORTUNITIES:

THREATS:

- New segments: such as kids apparel - The brand can promote itself by viral advertising and aggressive social media usage - High opportunity in campaign ing for various sports events - Increase global presence - Present a sustainable line - Innovate in terms of sustainable materials and communicate this new mission efficiently - Uniqlo Recycle should use recycled clothes for new clothes like H&M recycle

- Strong global fast-fashion competitors - Increasing competition from domestic market and global players -Strategic cost leadership may not be long term sustainable - Brand switching could happen easily as it’s only concentrated target segment is for clothing

(Bhasin, 2018) (MBA Skool, n.d.)

PRODUCT: Does not have a sustainable line 4 non-sustainable swimwear product references (Uniqlo, n.d.) PRICE: Swimwear: $9.90-19.90

Uniqlo’s only sustainable initiative: Uniqlo Recycle.

(Uniqlo, n.d.)

DIRECT COMPETITORS: SUSTAINABLE SWIMWEAR

This document analyzes the mentioned brands mostly with what they carry for Spain, and also was conducted throughout February; therefore, many brands had not yet released their S/S Swimwear products. This supports why there may not be a wide range of swimwear references for some brands who distribute seasonally.

Declaration: “We are committed to a future that respects our planet. We work with suppliers who guarantee greater quality with a lower environmental and social impact.” (Oysho, n.d.)

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PRODUCT: (Oysho, n.d.)

PRICE: (Oysho, n.d.)

• 3 Bikini Tops • 5 Bikini Bottoms • 3 Swimsuits • 61 Others (beach wear apparel)

• Bikini Tops: 17.99-19.99 eur • Bikini Bottoms: 11.99-14.99 eur • Swimsuits: 35.99 eur • Others (beach wear apparel): 15.99-35.99

• 71/ 165 swimwear references are Sustainable= 43% of collection is ”Sustainable”

PLACEMENT:

• 44 markets with over 600 stores world• Colors: Greens, whites, blues, browns, blacks, wide, selling online in over 32 markets via • and reds its website (Inditex, n.d.) • Sizing: XS-XL, 35-41 • Materials: Recycled polyamide & Recycled polyester PROMOTION: • Instagram: 1.7 m followes (Instagram, n.d.) • Facebook: 3.2 m followers (Facebook, n.d.) • Youtube: 4.8 k subscribers (YouTube, n.d.) • No other promotion for their “Join Life” products or swimwear • Does not communicate on website that the garment being viewed is of recycled polyamide or recycled polyester. There is no communication of why it is “Join Life”’.

SUSTAINABILITY: • “Join Life” Sustainability project • In-store recycle bins • Goal of zero waste by 2020 • 91% of stores benefit from an eco-efficient business model • Recycled packaging (Martinez-Maxima, 2018)

“Life moves in circles, fashion should too. Enter the Lazy Loop: easy ways to make fashion more sustainable. From things we’re working on at Monki, to things you can do as a fashion lover and things we can do together.” (Monki, n.d.)

“Made from 80% recycled polyester, this swimsuit is a real catch! Featuring a rounded neckline, a deep back and a pink shade with blue and green leaves. Let's make a splash, shall we!” (Monki, n.d.)

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PRODUCT:

PRICE:

• 17 Bikini Tops • 39 Bikini Bottoms • 16 Swimsuits • 2 Others (bags, sandals, beach wear)

• Bikini Tops: 15-18 eur • Bikini Bottoms : 8-12 eur • Swimsuits: 20-30 eur • Others (bags, sandals, beach wear): 6-35 eur • 74/ 107 swimwear references are Sus(Monki, n.d.) tainable= 69% of collection is ”Sustainable” • Colors: Black, blue, green, turquoise, purple, red, orange, pink, yellow, white • Sizing: No size filter available, although XS-XL when clicking on garment

PLACEMENT: • Monki currently operates over 115 stores in 14 countries. (Deslandes, 2018)

• Materials: Recycled polyamide & Recycled polyester (Monki, n.d.) PROMOTION:

SUSTAINABILITY:

• Instagram: 590.2k followers (Instagram, • “Monki Cares” Sustainability project Encourages people to wash their clothing n.d.) less and make do with what they have • Facebook: 207k followers (Facebook, longer n.d.) • In-store recycle bins • Youtube: 1.7k subscribers (YouTube, • To only use 100 percent recycled or susn.d.) tainably sourced materials by 2030 (Hendriksz, 2017) • No other promotion for their “Monki Cares” products or swimwear • Great at informing the website viewer that each swimwear piece labeled ‘Monki Cares’ is made of, for instance, 94 % of recycled polyester. 65

“Eco Edit is a curated destination within the asos.com website where customers can buy pioneering sustainable fashion, beauty and jewellery goods. We are continuously reviewing our buying habits so that customers don’t have to change theirs.” - Simon Platts, ASOS Sourcing Director (Asos PLC, n.d.)

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PRODUCT:

PRICE:

• 61 Bikini Tops • 43 Bikini Bottoms • 37 Swimsuits • Others: NA (Asos, n.d.)

• Bikini Tops: 10.49- 64.49 eur • Bikini Bottoms: 8.99- 96.99 eur • Swimsuits: 17.99-44.99 eur • Others: NA (Asos, n.d.)

• 141/ 2,174 swimwear references are Sustainable= 6.5% of collection is ”Sustainable”

PLACEMENT:

• Colors: Yellow, blue, white, brown, • No physical stores, only Online multicolor, orange, black, red, pink, green, • Ships to over 200 countries worldwide violet (Asos, 2019) • Sizing: EN 30, EU 32-36, XS-XL, ES 80AES 100 G, ES 100 FF-G cup size UK

SUSTAINABILITY:

• Materials: Recycled polyamide & Recy• “Eco Edit” by Asos cled polyester • Products must contain at least 50% sustainable fibres • All items sold support a range of initiaPROMOTION: tives for people and the environment • Most of our ASOS swimwear is made • No promotion for their sustainable from sustainable fabric made with recyswimwear was found cled yarn (Asos, n.d.) • Website navigation is not easy for people to find sustainable swimwear. They have to google “asos sustainable swimwear” to get to a page where then you have to filter it into swimwear categories. • Good at informing consumers that the product is sustainable when viewing the product. • A plus is being able to view each swimwear piece on a model catwalk video. 67

“We are very proud to announce the introduction of our first swimwear collection made from recycled waste materials,” said Weekday creative director Louise Lasson. “It feels really great to be able to give our customers such a nice looking and versatile collection, made from low-impact materials.”

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(Wightman-Stone, 2017)

68 Sporty elements

PRODUCT:

PRICE:

(Weekday, n.d.) • 20 Bikini Tops • 20 Bikini Bottoms • 19 Swimsuits • Others: NA

• Bikini Tops: 15-20 eur • Bikini Bottoms: 10-12 eur • Swimsuits: 25-35 eur • Others: NA (Weekday, n.d.)

• 59/65 swimwear references are Sustainable= 91% of collection is Recycled/”Sustainable”

PLACEMENT:

• Colors: Black, blue, green, turquoise, purple, red, orange, yellow, white

• 38 stores in 10 countries, and sells to 18 countries online (H&M Group, n.d.)

• Sizing: XS-XL

SUSTAINABILITY:

• Materials: Recycled polyamide & Recy• Has a “Sustainability” information page cled polyester on their website • Aims toward sustainability aim is for all cotton in our range to come from recycled or sustainable sources by PROMOTION: 2020 (Weekday, n.d.) • No promotion for their sustainable swimwear was found • First thing one would see when entering “Swimwear” are moving banners on swim pieces stating “Recyled Material” • Are clear on product information, online, if it is recyled polyester or polyamide and how much % (normally 92%)

OPPORTUNITIES FROM INDIRECT COMPETITION: • Create a competitive advantage over large competitors such as Zara, Mango, Gap, and Uniqlo, by creating a sustainable swimwear line • Offer sustainable swimwear year long, both online and offline, as Zara, Mango, and Uniqlo are seasonal • Communicate aggresively through H&M’s recycling bins and banners that recycled garments will be used for Conscious production and Conscious swimwear • Release trendy, color variety, and size adaptability for everyone, as H&M targets everyone • Have an easily accessible and customizable web experience, with Size, Price, Color, and Product type • Inform viewers and in-store consumers well on how the products are sustainable (in a fun way-like Monki) • Advertise the Conscious line in general and more specifically the swimwear line more, as competitors have not

THREATS FROM INDIRECT COMPETITION: • H&M’s biggest competitor, Zara, may release sustainable swimwear with their sustainable line ‘Join Life’-therefore, H&M has to maintain control over their product category in terms of awareness and desire • Other competitors, other than Zara, may create a better product strategy than H&M Conscious Swimwear • Uniqlo could invent or invest in new sustainable swimwear technologies and attract consumers as they are known for their special technological materials • Those who are brand loyal to Mango, Zara, Gap, or Uniqlo will have to be attracted by H&M, otherwise brand loyalty will continue

OPPORTUNITIES FROM DIRECT COMPETITION: • Opportunity to have a wider sustainable swimwear range (non-seasonal), than for instance Oysho with 11 swimwear garments • Provide trendy, unique looking, elegant pieces for consumers who would normally go on Asos or visit other competitors, but will be able to shop online or in physical stores to attain that with H&M • Have an easily accessible and customizable web experience, with Size, Price, Color, and Product type • Inform viewers and in-store consumers well on how the products are sustainable (in a fun way-like Monki) • Advertise the new Conscious swimwear online and offline agressively, as competitors have not • Communicate the fact that H&M’s recycling program is used for the making of recycled swimwear, as competitors do not • Use Runway Videos displaying videos of swimwear online, as Asos does • Show diverse swimwear models, such as those of Asos

THREATS FROM DIRECT COMPETITION: • Already established sustainable swimwear competitors have trust and perhaps brand loyalty from consumers • Direct competitors (using sustainable swimwear), such as Oysho, Weekday, Asos, and Monki have trendy swimwear with competitive prices to H&M • Asos is one of the leading online retailers, with the most, out of all competitors, sustainable swimwear. They are also the trendiest, and have the widest variety for everyone. H&M will have to create a wide product offering online in order to compete. •Asos’ price are the most competitive, H&M will have to monitor their prices

I N D I R E C T C O M P E T I T O R S P O S I T I O N I N G:

Swimwear references: 0-10. Based on how many garments of swimwear they have currently. 10 being the best. Sustainable Efforts: 0-10. What is the brands stance on sustainability? Do they have a sustainable line? Do they have sustainable goals/values/ a vision? 10 being the best. Trendy: 0-10. Based on how much they follow the latest season’s trends. 10 being the best.

Affordable: 0-10. Based on their average price, the higher the point means the lower their price average is.

D I R E C T C O M P E T I T O R S P O S I T I O N I N G:

H&M is not included in this positioning map as H&M currently does not compete with these competitors due to not having sustainable swimwear.

Multi-style: 0-10. How many different syles the brand carries within their swimwear line. 10 being the best. Communication regarding sustainability: 0-10. Based on if the brand has communicated their sustainable line or swimwear to the public and to what extent. 10 being the best. Online Navigation: 0-10. Based on the display, layout, and ease of navigation getting to swimwear. 10 being the best. Selling Reach: 0-10. Based on number of POS and/or countries sold online in. 10 being the best.

BENCHMARK OPPORTUNITIES:

“Most fashion is designed 12-18 months before it’s released, but at Ref a sketch can become a dress in about a month. We’re designing and making what you want to wear right now. We believe the perfect fit is the most important part of our clothes. We spend hours fitting on different bodies and have a meticulous approach to our fits.” (Reformation, n.d.) Overall, below is listed the admirable, aspirational, and attainable values the successful and sustainable brand Reformation holds in terms of product and promotion that H&M can implement into the launch of the new sustainable “Conscious” and “Conscious Exclusive” swimwear category.

PRODUCT:

PROMOTION:

• Has a good amount of swimear products (53 ref in February) online (Reformation, n.d.)

• Reformation’s communication style & color tones are similar to H&M’s

• Very trendy products due to their (as quoted above) • Multi-style products • They focus on the fit • Variety of colors • Most of swimwear is made of ECONYL®

•Includes different body shapes/sizes • Even though they are exclusive, they selectively repost consumers wearing their products • Uses well-known influencers/celebrities to promote their apparel on social media • People know they are sustainable as they communicate it through every channel and they respect them due to their style • Rewards consumers with a $100 voucher if they switch to wind energy (Carbon Credits) • Online navigation is easy as it is organized and simplistic • They are very transparent on their website- they promote factory tour visits and have videos of the named garment makers

(Instagram, n.d.) (Reformation, n.d.)

Posts from Reformation’s Instagram (Instagram, n.d.)

A N A L Y S I S & C O N C L U S I O N:

Overall, H&M remains one of the most powerful fashion retailers in the world, behind Zara. The brand is on the right path in terms of sustainability and is actually the best out of all of its competitors, in terms of product, price, promotion and distribution. The brand offers a wide range at an affordable price. However, H&M lacks communicating their sustainable “Conscious” line properly to the public, as shown from Interviews, many do not know about it or have not seen advertisements. Interviewees also stated that their Conscious line lacks attractiveness, as it for the most part is not trendy and is more basic/comfortable. Therefore, H&M needs to improve its “Conscious” line communication strategy, as well as its trendiness. Reformation is displayed as the perfect benchmark brand as they thrive being a sustainable trendy brand that is associated as being a “cool girl’s brand” (Bateman, 2017). As H&M is meant for everyone, they will have to attract more consumers to their Conscious line by showing inclusivity and not so much exclusivity, although this does not apply to the Conscious Exclusive Swimwear category. The solution to these issues will be presented in the upcoming pages of the Strategy.

S T R A T E G I C M A R K E T I N G P L A N:

STRATEGIC BASIS: H&M is the second largest fashion retailer in the world, financially, and is one of the most influential. It’s affordable, quality, and trendy business model has been amplified with a competitive advantage of sustainable initiatives and efforts. Their current mission to attain a complete sustainable business model, while still being affordable and trendy is questioned; therefore, H&M needs to communicate their efforts with even more transparency. As they have developed a large sustainable line, of Conscious and Conscious Exclusive, they should agressively communicate this line’s mission, vision, and values to everyone. As today’s customers appreciate transparency and sustainable initiatives they will respect the brand more, although they will not purchase the garments if they loose H&M’s promised trendyness. Therefore, H&M will have to focus on its transparent agressive communication as well as it’s product attractiveness for women.

KEY PERFORMING INDICATORS:

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H&M’s “Conscious” & “Conscious Exclusive” Women’s Swimwear

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• Increase in Conscious line awareness • Increase in Conscious line profits • Increase in social media following • Increase in H&M’s word of mouth • Trust in H&M’s sustainable efforts • Desire for their Conscious products (swimwear) • For Conscious swimwear to be seen as trendy, comfortable/adjustable, and affordable

COMPETITIVE STRATEGY:

H&M will have the competitive advantage of more line awareness due to its increase in communication, whilst its competitors lack in that area. The brand will also communicate and use only recycled polyester or polyamide with elastane for its swimwear products. The brand will also be competitively priced, and not overpriced compared to it’s normal swimwear, as H&M does not want consumers to pay more for purchasing sustainable. Through the brand’s increased communication, their recycling program will be enhanced in awareness, and H&M will be able to source and recycle polyester from its own doners. The target will remain women of all ages with different styles, although will mostly strategically target women 18-35 years old, as usual. Both Conscious consumers and general H&M consumers are the target.

GROWTH STRATEGY: By implementing sustainable swimwear to H&M’s already vast selection of products; H&M will show initiative towards improving its sustainable stance and also will spread the sustainable message to consumers. The media will most likely share the new product category and will either praise it or question it, however if a strong communication plan is developed, H&M will be appreciated. As microfibres and microplastics are a global growing concern, H&M being the first largest fast fashion brand to release recycled swimwear will make it highly respectable and attractive. Again, through transparent and agressive communication, their Conscious lines will foresee growth and will be able to implement more of their general products into their Conscious lines, which will progress the brand into becoming a more sustainable brand.

DIRECT COMPETITOR POSITIONING:

PROPOSED POSITIONING AMONGST DIRECT COMPETITORS:

This positioning map includes H&M as the brand will now compete with fast fashion brands who have launched sustainable swimwear. In comparison to the future direct competitors, H&M’s new Consicous swimwear will have a competitive advantage with it’s sustainable efforts, communication regarding sustainability, online navigation ease, and selling reach. For the first launch, H&M will not have as many swimwear references or as many styles as Asos (the largest affordable online retailer) as the demand will be tested. H&M’s Conscious swimwear will also tie with trendyness and affordability as being sustainable, it can not be 10 in either of those, yet.

SPRING/SUMMER 2020 “C O N S C I O U S” SUSTAINABLE SWIMWEAR C A T E G O R Y P R O P O S A L:

Based on the forecasted trends, which are shown in the upcoming pages, the Conscious and Conscious Exclusive swimwear collections are founded. The style, colors, and design are analyzed for a S/S 2020 release.

C O L L E C T I O N B O O K:

This Collection Book is for the first proposed Conscious Swimwear and Conscious Exclusive Swimwear launch for S/S 2020, which would launch globally in-stores and online. They will continue to offer sizes 32-48 and and will follow H&M’s main swimwear colors, although incorporating the season’s color trends. The Conscious Swimwear collection is based mostly on forecasted trends, as well as AdHoc desires, while the Conscious Exclusive Swimwear collection is based on implementing an old artistic design, as that is what the Exclusive concept is about. The student decided that an appropriate design would be of Van Gogh’s floral art, as it is not only inspiring but trending as a film on Van Gogh has recently been released in 2019 . Based on calculations from H&M’s product proportions, in terms of their current women’s swimwear, Conscious, and Conscious Exclusive references, the following was calculated: As Swimwear takes up 4% of women’s wear And the Conscious line has 465 references While the Conscious Exclusive line has 15 references, then the Conscious line should have 19-20 swimwear garments while the Conscious Exclusive should have 3, as 4% of the Exclusive line is less than 1, 3 would be more appropriate for options. This means that Conscious and Conscious swimwear take up 23/503 (prior ref number was 480 without swimwear addition) Conscious line references making it 5% of the Conscious line, while it consists of .40% of women’s wear (23/5926-23 sku’s added). Also with the addition of this line, swimwear references will be 267, and the percentage of Conscious swimwear to normal swimwear is 9%.

INSPIRATION:

(WGSN, 2018)

The Conscious line will release 20 swimwear garments: • 9 will be bikini tops (19/42%=8) (although 1 more is added for an extra color) • 7 will be bikini bottoms (19/36%) • 3 will be swimsuits (19/18%) • 1 will be a sarong (19/4%) Percents are based off product references shown in a chart on page 20.

The Conscious Swimwear line is inspired by the forecasted S/S 2020 swimwear trends, shown on page 89, which are “Raw Simplicity” and “Sun Bleached Retro”, as well as the natural beach colors. As consumers desire both simplistic but also trendy and colorful swimwear, these two elements mixed with the vibrant and varried trend forecasted colors, shown to the right, will most likely fulfill their needs and desires. The fits/styles chosen are also based off of forecasted style trends (shown in Annex: Figure 7) as well as consumer insight on what they desire (which is comfort, adjustability, sexyness, and trendyness).

THE CROP TOP BIKINI HIGH WAISTED BOTTOMS

THE TRIANGLE BIKINI

CLASSIC HIPSTER BOTTOMS

P R O D U C T

BANDEAU TOP

TANGA SIDE BOTTOMS

THE UNDERWIRE BIKINI TOP

SARONG/KAFTAN

SWOOP BACK SWIMSUIT

INSPIRATION: (Jones, 2013)

(Canvas replicas, n.d.)

This collection is inspired by an old art design of Van Gogh. The two paintings selected will be used as inspiration behind the Exclusive swimwear. This inspiration is supported by the forecasted trend of the “Garden Party” and “Hyperreal Florals”, as shown to the right. Purist Blue and Mellow Yellow, two of S/S 2020’s main colors will be the primary colors for the proposed garments. 92

(WGSN, 2018)

As the Conscious Exclusive line will release 3 swimwear garments: • 1 will be a bikini top • 1 will be a bikini bottom • and 1 will be a swimuit

THE CROP TOP BIKINI

P R O D U C T

HIGH WAISTED BOTTOMS

SWOOP BACK SWIMSUIT

(Craggs, 2018)

These 5 colors are the new main colors used for S/S 2020. All of these colors have been implemented into the Conscious and Conscious Exclusive Swimwear line.

MARKETING MIX: PRODUCT

MARKETING MIX: PRICE The pricing strategy for the Conscious Swimwear remains the same as H&M’s normal swimwear. Prices were analyzed based on their current styles/fits that will be reused for S/S 2020, and the middle price (shown on page 99) was used. In terms of Conscious Exclusive swimwear, an 85% increase in price was added to the Conscious style/fits price, as Conscious Exclusive is on average 85% more than Conscious.

H&M Sale Periods (Crowley, 2017)

MARKETING MIX: PLACEMENT

As H&M and its main sustainable line competitor Zara, currently place their Sustainable line products with their normal products, the same will be conducted for swimwear. The swimwear will be placed where swimwear is normally placed, which is normally in the lingerie and accessory section (when in high demand). The chart on the next page displays H&M’s store clusters, Own and Shopping mall stores as well as Airport Stores. As Airport stores have smaller sqf spaces (Lane,2018), less product will be distributed to those stores. In stores, the new collection will be placed at eye level and should not be hidden behind other swimwear garments. As found from store observations, each product item had around 15 garments displayed, of various sizes, and has the extra sizes in their back stock.

H&M Passeig de Gracia, Barcelona store (February 2019)- Women’s Lingerie section. Spring/Summer seasons have more racks dedicated to swimwear (also in Accessory area). Around 15 SKU’s are displayed for each item. 100

The charts below analyze the swimwear styles with their size and color offerings to determine how many sku’s should be sent to each cluster. Percentages were calculated to determine how many of each size and color , out of 15, will be sent to each store.

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The above chart and the above right chart are determined from how many Conscious swimwear SKU’s will be sent to each cluster (based on the charts above on p.101). For instance, a sum of 5,700 sku’s will be sent to all 20 Airport stores, while 285 SKU’s will be sent on average to each Airport store worldwide. The chart below is for Conscious Exclusive.

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These charts are based on the numbers formulated from charts on page 101 and 102. On page 105, the distribution of certain colors and product type are shown. April-September, will display brighter trendier colors in stores while September-March will have darker and more season adaptable colors.

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105

These charts on the bottom calculate the amount of SKU’s delivered for re-stock, from the launch month of April to March. However, daily sales analysis should further decide the amount of re-stock needed. As Conscious Exclusive has less SKU’s and are of only 3 items, more SKU’s will be sent in the beggining months, with an addition in December as globally that it can be a summer season.

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Shown above and below are the items and colors allocated during the first and last half of the year. Brighter S/S colors will be allocated in-stores from April-September, while less SKU’s and darker F/W colors will be distributed from September-March. These charts numbers correlate to the charts on page 106. The Conscious Exclusive Collection, as shown on page 106, will only be distributed from April-September and a small re-stock in December.

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MARKETING MIX: PROMOTION

@HM

Promotion is a key area of improvement for H&M’s Conscious line, as shown from research. As there is a lack of consumer awareness for their Conscious line, this will be improved upon with both advertising and in-store strategies. Below is the estimated budget. The budget is mostly spent on online promotion, as it is recommended to as “consumers are mobile obsessed” (page 45).

No information was found regarding H&M’s previous/normal promotional budget; therefore,this is an estimate from researched prices.

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“H&M’s advertising campaigns are produced internally at our head office in Stockholm, Sweden, by the marketing department in co-operation with creative professionals located in the major fashion hubs of the world. The campaigns are designed to be clear and simple and aim to inform our customers of what is new at H&M.” (H&M Group, n.d.)

BEFORE THE LAUNCH:

Update those signed up to H&M’s newsletter with latest news on launch & Press Release which will result in media sharing

Release a teaser video on both Conscious Swimwear collections. Post on Youtube, Facebook, and Instagram.

Confirm the launch and countdown of new sustainable swimwear category. “Hype” it up. Shared media channels will promote this further. 109

DURING:

In-store: Display new Conscious swimwear in window display as well as eye levels of swimwear areas.

Pay/collaborate with social media influencers, especially on Instagram, who are either fashion or sustainable fashion advocates.

Window Display posters Swimwear and posters of Conscious campaign.

Display a Conscious poster or digital display next to swimwear garmentspromoting the fact that they are made of recycled materials.

Own Website Promotion & Outisde Billboards

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Very important* Use targeted advertising using social data to attract women looking for swimwear online (from cookies) and displaying the new swimwear garments on Facebook, Instagram, and Youtube ad’s.

AFTER THE LAUNCH: Continue to use targeted advertising with social data of keywords #sustainable #swimwear #HMSwimwear #recycled

Maintain an organized online navigation and highlight upon the fact that Conscious swimwear is made of Recycled materials, as Weekday does. Also give percentages.

Continue to sponsor influencers of Instagram Re-post real women wearing the swimwear Sponsor or send free merchandise to influencers on Youtube or Instagram for reviews/haul videos Retain awareness on hashtags: #HMSustainableSwimwear #HMRecycles #HMConsciousSwimwear #HMConscious or #HMConsciousExclusive

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LAUNCH PLAN

The new launch and implementation of sustainable swimwear to H&M’s Conscious and Conscious Exclusive line will fill the market opportunity and will be a competitive advantage compared to its main competitors such as Zara, Mango, and Gap. The launch of the collection will follow its normal Conscious and Conscious exclusive launch, being in April. It will be perfect for Spring/Summer 2020. As H&M is a fast fashion affordable brand, the launch plan will be mostly focused on internal preparations, as there will be no show or pop-up store do the the collection being small. There will however be press release

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In yellow, are the key activities which are highlighted upon in the following page-114.

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CAMPAIGN VIDEO WITH MODELS

CAMPAIGN VIDEO REGARDING SUSTAINABILITY

A campaign video will be shot for the brand’s social media promotion. • Youtube- teaser & full video • Instagram- clips & teaser • Facebook- teaser & full video

A campaign video to showcase H&M’s sustainable and transparent efforts.

Models: Alicia Silverstone (vegan/sustainable activist actress & author), Emma Watson, Gwenyth Paltrow, and Miley Cyrus (famous women of a wide age range)

• Social Networking Ads (Facebook, Instagram, Twitter) • Search Engine Ads

Shot in the H&M studio as well as on a beach

SOCIAL MEDIA INFLUENCER POSTS

SOCIAL MEDIA INFLUENCER STORIES

For the model celebrities mentioned above (who care and promote causes) and micro-influencers to communicate the launch of the Conscious swimsuit line with Instagram posts of them wearing the pieces (which will be sent for free).

For celebrities of a larger recognition (who care and promote causes) and micro-influencers to communicate the launch of the Conscious swimsuit line with Instagram stories of the pieces (which will be sent for free).

POST ON OWN MEDIA CHANNELS H&M promoting the sustainable swimwear pieces on their own media channels (Instagram, Facebook, Youtube, website, and app). By reposting consumers and/or models.

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Josie Clough Photograher of Sports Illustrated Magazine

KEY ACTIVITY PLAN:

TARGETED ADVERTISING

• Recycled program for recycled textiles • Workers conditions • Plastic pollution

CAMPAIGN PHOTOGRAPHS

H&M COORDINATION TEAMS

These teams will be needed, and will need to work together, for the upcoming product launch: • Product Management Team • Merchandising Team • Designer Team • Buyers/Suppliers • Marketing/Communications and Public Relations Team

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MAY 2019

JUNE 2019

Marketing & Design Team:

Buyer & Product Development Team:

COORDINATION BETWEEN DEPARTMENTS: 2019-2020

- Start Market Analysis -Upcoming products projection - Competition Analysis - Start the design process

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- Contact suppliers/manufacturers for recycled polyester/ polyamide... - Send product designs to suppliers/ manufacturers

JULY 2019

AUGUST 2019

Buyer and Design Team:

Sales Team:

- Arrival of first product samples - Retouch samples and resend the changes to the products

- Consuct customer relation management report - Sales strategies Buyer and Design Team: - Arrival of second sample

SEPTEMBER 2019

OCTOBER 2019

Management Team:

Buyer Team:

- Team development -Teaching sales department of new product - Schedule photo shoot for campaign

- Final samples arrive - Place order for full collection

NOVEMBER 2019

DECEMBER 2019

Marketing Team:

Buying Team:

- Brainstorm and plan the campaign location and ideas - Book models and photographer - Studio photo shoot

-Full sample order delivery - Arrival of first order Marketing Team: - Receive final edit of campaign photos

JANUARY 2020

FEBRUARY 2020

Sales and Merchandising Team:

Merchandising, Buyer, and Sales Team:

- Plan distribution of collection - Plan store display -Prepare poster displays

-Design store layout and how to display the merchandise

PR & Marketing Team: - Communication: contact press, ambassadors, influencers, and collaborators

MARCH 2020

APRIL 2020

Merchandising, Buyer, and Sales Team:

LAUNCH IN-STORES & ONLINE

- Last set-ups details for the distribution of products to stores Merchandising Team: -Delivery and distribution of product to POS

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A N N E X: Figure 1: In-store observations Barcelona Flagship and Portal de l’Angel stores

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120

Zara’s Join Life Products in-store Barcelona

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Figure 2: Product and Price Analysis Numbers for Charts

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Figure 3: Price Analysis

Conscious Line Tops: 25% (4.49-42.99) Dresses 9% (9.99-199) Sweaters 7% (14.99-29.99)

Women’swear: 1. Tops: 12% (4.99-59.99) 2. Dresses: 11% (9.99149.00) 3. Sweaters: 10% (7.99129.00)

Conscious Exclusive: Tops: 13% 29.99-49.99 Dresses: 13% 69.99-89.99 Sweaters: NA

Both Conscious Lines: 1. Tops 25% (4.49-49.99) 3. Dresses 9% (9.99-199.00) 2. Sweaters 7% (14.99-29.99)

Tops: Conscious- 10%-28% decrease Conscious Exc- 83% increase-17% decrease Dresses: Conscious 25% increase Conscious Exc. 86% increase Sweaters: Conscious- 47% increase

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Figure 4: PEST extension

P O L I T I C A L: Currently, many of the world’s politicians are becoming more conservative, and therefore have taken many actions against globalization. United State’s President Trump has enforced high tax restricitons, causing economic instability for China. Brexit is feared to trigger instability. Turkey, Egypt, and Lebanon, are also instable and cause a threat towards H&M’s franchises. Politicians are globally fighting towards climate change reform, although the United States, the leading global country’s predident Donald Trump does not believe in it and continues to support fracking and fossil fuels.

E C O N O M I C A L: Around the globe, there are many economical uncertainties due to the political climate. • By 2020, the industry may see global sales nearing $30 trillion. • With the possibility of a global economic slowdown by 2020, companies will start to look more aggressively into opportunities to boost productivity compared to previous years. • India becomes a focal point for the fashion industry as its middleclass consumer base grows and manufacturing sector strengthens. Fashion players must redouble their efforts in this highly fragmented and challenging market where an educated and tech-savvy demographic rub shoulders with the poor and upwardly mobile. • According to McKinsey FashionScope, Greater China is expected to overtake the US as the largest fashion market in the world in 2019. • Forecasts from the World Bank, IMF and OECD predict slower growth in developed markets through 2020, and a flattening of the growth curve in developing markets. Looking ahead to 2019, there are signs that Europe, Latin America and the Middle East could be most vulnerable to a deceleration. The US and China could also face a slowdown, with fears of a potential bubble in the former, and trade dynamics could impact consumer spending and fashion sector growth in both. • All companies will need to prepare contingency plans to face a potential shake-up of global value chains. On the one hand, the apparel trade could be reshaped by new barriers, trade tensions and uncertainty and, on the other hand, by new opportunities from growing SouthSouth trade and the renegotiation of trade agreements.

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Figure 5: H&M Communication strategy The minimalistic/scandinavian theme is key in H&M’s designs, communication, and display of their products. This prevails in their “Conscious” and “Conscious Exclusive” collection. Although, they brand states that their mission is to communicate and provide “a range of styles, attitudes and ethnic backgrounds”. Below, is the brand’s recent photos posted, which portray an earthy but minimalstic tone. Their styling and coloring changes with every collection and season, as they intend to stay on trend.

H&M Instagram Feed (Instagram, n.d) 125

Figure 6: Interviews

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Figure 6: Interviews Moodboards

128

129

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Interviewees:

H&M Group (10):

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Grace, 22, USA Andrea, 21, Spain Christina 22, Denmark Nuria, 20, Spain Margret, 22, Iceland Alexandra, 22, Canada Denise, 65, USA Carol, 62, USA Kelly, 23, USA Noy, 22, USA H&M Conscious Group (10):

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Anna, 31, Sweden Aleksandra, 20, Russia Silvia, 21, Columbia Laura, 20, Dominican Republic Alex, 22, USA Julia, 21, Spain Alexandra, 22, USA Maya, 22, Egypt Gala, 20, Spain Carol, 66, Canada

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Figure 6: Consumer Analysis:

The student conducted 20 in-person interviews on women of many different ages and countries who either shop at H&M-never having bought a “Conscious” product or those who have bought an H&M “Conscious” product. The age range was not fixed as H&M targets everyone. The results vary based on their age, style, and body confidence; although, their general insight on how the “Conscious” line currently is and how they would like to see it, in terms of swimwear, is coherent. The interviewees show that the current H&M Conscious collection is: • Basic, earth toned, all about the feel/comfort, and is not the trendiest They feel that it should: • Offer wider styles that fit the current collection’s season style, colors, and designs (although in a sustainable way by not releasing a lot and by making sure those items follow style/color desires when the season ends) • Implement an even more elegant/minimalistic/scandinavian tone • Include more vibrant colors (e.g: red, pastels, orange, light blues) • Communicate the collection better to the public and put signs or allocate a section to display the “Conscious” products so it is easier to find In terms of swimwear, they should: • Also follow suggestion #1 from above • Follow the style trendiness H&M usually incorporates into their Swimwear collections • Use adjustable swimwear as not all bodies fit in the same way • Simplistic, trendy, and elegant designs • Comfort (softness) should be a priority • Should be easy to find in physical stores and online • Should not be more expensive, and if so only 5% more Overall, they desire what they purchase to: • Follow the latest color/style/design trends to some degree • Be comfortable (soft) and to feel comfortable (sexy) in what they are wearing • Be adjustable in some areas, as some pieces do not fit their breasts or hips as they would like

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Figure 7: Swimwear trend research for S/S 2020

Overall, these are the general trends for S/S 2020.

(WGSN, 2018)

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STYLE TRENDS: THE CROP TOP BIKINI

• Versatile, can be used for other occasions • As consumers increasingly look for hybrid products with multiple end uses,

the crop top bikini ticks all the boxes, borrowing heavily from sporty cuts. value for money. • High apex cuts and supportive straps are key for pull-on styles. Chunky cross-back details provide high-impact support whatever the activity. Stripes and texture prints have mass-market appeal.

THE SCOOP SWIMSUIT

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• Designed to flatter every body type • Skinny straps and squared-off scoops • Opt for flattering high-rise cuts • Use all-over prints to convey the seasonal message (WGSN, 2018)

THE TRIANGLE BIKINI

• A classic fit, now with wider

straps for support. • Long-line silhouettes feature high apex cups with soft structured support. • Solid colours drive volume, and the dominance of black is largely unchallenged.

THE UNDERWIRE BIKINI • The underwire bikini is still a favourite

among consumers looking for fuller bust styles and the contemporary 35+ market, due to the additional support. As stats show the popularity of push-ups are plateauing, opt for natural looks. • Offer mix-and-match briefs, such as classic hipster, high-waisted, or tanga sides for younger consumers. • Excessive padding and extreme pushups are replaced with soft lightweight cups that offer support, without appearing artificial. • Opt for flattering micro prints and elongated underbands which amp up support.

BANDEAU TOP WITH HIGH WAISTED BOTTOMS

• Minimalistic approach • The bandeau bikini is a must-have item, guaranteed to drive volume. • Complete the look with coveted high-waisted briefs. • Removable skinny straps are key. • Opt for textured fabric and blocking which are subtle and easy to wear for the contemporary consumer.

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(WGSN, 2018)

COLOR TRENDS:

136 (WGSN, 2018)

Empower Up! is an eclectic trend that celebrates individuality, diversity, and culture with playful mix-and-match looks, and plays into a growing consumer appetite for maximalism. S/S 20 – WGSN‘s Empower Up! forecast explores the voices that will shape the world in 2020, as Gen Z and emerging economies come of age. This inspires the most summery colour story from the the S/S 20 forecasts, with a palette of upbeat mid-tones. These tones have a nostalgic and sun-faded quality, calling to mind 1980s surf culture and cities by the sea, such as Miami, Sydney, Los Angeles and Cape Town.

137 (WGSN, 2018)

138 (WGSN, 2018)

139 (WGSN, 2018)

140 (WGSN, 2018)

Code Create embraces innovations that fuse science, nature and technology. Neo-futurist designs, sustainable solutions and cutting edge fabrics are key areas of focus, signalling a sea change for swimwear in 2020.

141 (WGSN, 2018)

142 (WGSN, 2018)

143 (WGSN, 2018)

144 (WGSN, 2018)

Designing Emotion explores the relationship between humans and tech, and sees swimwear focus on emotional connections, with a holistic approach to silhouette, fabric and details.

145 (WGSN, 2018)

146 (WGSN, 2018)

147 (WGSN, 2018)

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BENCHMARK OPPORTUNITIES--------------------------------------------------------------------------P

INDIRECT COMPETITOR POSITIONING ----------------------------------------------------------------P

DIRECT COMPETITORS ANALYSIS----------------------------------------------------------------------P

OPPORTUNITIES & THREATS FROM INDIRECT COMPETITORS----------------------------------------P

OPPORTUNITIES & THREATS FROM DIRECT COMPETITORS-------------------------------------------P

OPPORTUNITIES & THREATS FROM MARKET----------------------------------------------------------P

MARKET ANALYSIS--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------P

INDIRECT COMPETITORS ANALYSIS-------------------------------------------------------------------P

CONSUMER ANALYSIS----------------------------------------------------------------------------------P

SOCIAL & TECHNOLOGICAL ANALYSIS----------------------------------------------------------------P

METHODOLOGY----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------P

BRAND POSITION:---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------P

DISTRIBUTION ANALYSIS-------------------------------------------------------------------------------P

THE CHALLENGE---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------P

COMING PRODUCT LINE--------------------------------------------------------------------------------P

COMMUNICATION ANALYSIS---------------------------------------------------------------------------P

CURRENT STRATEGIC BASIS: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------P

PRODUCT & PRICE CONCLUSION-----------------------------------------------------------------------P