Fashion in Cinema and Music: Cabaret

Cabaret Almudena Solano Robledo

BA Fashion marketing &

communication, Level 6, 2018-2019

6FAMK003C Visual Arts CWK1 Maya McCarthy Research word count: 3679 Essay word count: 1029

1A Written Essay 1B Research Book

INDEX

1. Concept research 1.1 The Film 1.1.1 Introduction 1.1.2 Cast

1.1.3 Synopsis 1.1.4 Poster analysis 1.1.5 The director 1.1.6 Location 1.1.7 Soundtrack 1.2 Understanding Film Innovation

1.2.1 Decade analysis 1.2.1.1 Movies 1.2.1.2 Social Movements 1.2.1.3 Fashion 1.2.1.4 Fashion icons 1.2.2 Values 1.2.3 Influence of the film 1.3 Understanding Film Communication 1.3.1 Key elements 1.3.2 Film Techniques 1.3.3 Film Communication 1.4 Understanding Fashion Comm.

1.4.1 Costume Designer 1.4.2 Character Development/identity 2.Concept development 2.1 Contemporary evidence 2.1.1 Film References 2.1.2 Collaborative Art 2.1.3 Influence in cont. culture 2.2 Conclusive key photographic images 3. Annex

W R I T T EN ESSAY

CONFRONTATION

“Divine decadence” may be the most accurate phrase to describe not only Sally Bowls, played by Liza Minnelli, but the entire story from the famous movie: Cabaret. But why does it represent the film so well? At the Kit Kat Klub, decadence and sexual ambiguity are only part of the atmosphere. Despite it being “divine”, there is still a feeling of deep sadness throughout the entire film. Hence, the phrase “divine decadence”. The songs, the ambience, the glasses of champagne and the parties are just a cover for the aching and loneliness of the characters.

Cabaret was first put on stage as a Broadway show (1966). The original production designed a set that used a mirror angled towards the house and forced the audience to see themselves reflected. This confronted them with the knowledge that the seeds for fascism and systematic oppression were much closer than they thought. Cabaret disabuses the viewer with the notion that they would do the “right thing” under World War II circumstances. It demonstrates through music, how easy it is to be seduced into a fascist way of thinking. Music generates a deep emotional response, which enables the viewer to connect with the characters in a profound way.

“If you could see her” is a song that could be interpreted as a man that falls in love with an ugly girl, in this case, the gorilla. But in reality, it is dehumanizing an entire community, as it makes fun of jews. We acknowledge this with the ending phrase “if you could see her through my eyes, she wouldn’t look Jewish”. Ultimate-

ly, Cabaret does not warn us about hate or complicity; it highlights the viewer’s lack of empathy, their complacency, their knowledge of warning signs and doing nothing about them, but even worse, refusing to believe them.

People still have a choice to do right. Cabaret helps people to recognize that how they respond to national and international events, can make the difference. In a way, Cabaret it saying that people should not hide inside the Kit Kat Club and wait for it all to go away.

Divine decadence is about challenging norms and ideas that are “fun and centred”, as it only exposes the lack of empathy for others. As Sally clearly said, “Does it matter as long as you’re having fun?”, this is only showing her indifference towards the Jewish community. Sally is the definition of divine decadence, as she is a femme fatale, a Cabaret performer with not a care in the world. She is only interested in herself and could not care less about social issues. Ms Bowles lives in her own bubble of happiness and it looks like everything is perfect for her, while she should be more concerned about her stay in Germany as a foreigner. Although she is divine decadence herself, her Minnelli’s character deals with other subjects as well, such as sexual openness and women empowerment, Cabaret is an ageless film. It treats open-mindedness and sexuality by using fun stage antics. It is designed to shake up and confront viewers about their social

indifference. The songs were performed only at the Kit Kat Club, to submerge the viewers in a bubble and later hit them in the face with the truth. This is the main reason why they placed a mirror on the first Broadway production, to make people look at themselves and make them feel uncomfortable with their indifference and careless mindset.

Today, divine decadence is still present in society. Either in a literal way by using Cabaret as an inspiration for fashion editorials or it unconsciously present in people’s mindset. Although nowadays people care more about social issues due to the accessibility of information, they can also join social movements for the sole purpose of belonging to a social trend. A clear example can be Black Lives Matter. This movement gained its most visibility during March of 2020 in which many protests were held. Nevertheless, months later, very few people are still protesting or fighting for their rights. This is clearly showing a lack of true empathy towards this community of people. With social media, it is easier to keep up with these type of movements but it is also harder to keep the protests between only the people who are truly fighting for the cause.

Another clear example is the Syrian war. It has been going on for several years and people do not seem to care as much just because it is not trendy to care about it. Other examples are the protests held for the environment. Before COVID-19, the environment was everybody’s number one priority. It is understandable that the

priority now is COVID-19, but global warming is still an issue and only a few people seem to still care about it. This also proves the point of people getting involved and protesting only because it was trendy to do it.

Divine decadence is present in everybody’s mindset and social media has a great influence over it. The mindset of not caring about someone else’s situation just because it does not affect someone directly is the reason why we are divided as a society. It is a fact that social media is a smoking mirror. Influencers and celebrities only show what they want their viewers to see and think about them. Some are more genuine than others, but still, people should not trust everything they see online.

Social media can also be seen as an escape from reality, just as The Kit Kat Club.

People surf on social platforms to view the “perfect” lives of influencers and people they follow. On the film, people did the same thing by going to the cabaret. They found an escape from the hard truth that the Nazis were becoming stronger under Germany’s nose.

To conclude, divine decadence does not only describe the film Cabaret or the character of Sally Bowles, but it also describes the society we live in. People should take a look in the mirror, get out of their bubble and acknowledge their lack of empathy, their complacency, their knowledge of warning signs and their careless attitude towards them.

REFERENCES

2020. [online] Available at: <https://www.huffpost.com/entry/oscars-divine-decadence-c_b_2622610> [Accessed 25 November 2020].

AnOther. 2020. The Divine Decadence Of Cabaret’s Sally Bowles. [online] Available at: <https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/9477/the-divine-decadence-of-cabarets-sally-bowles> [Accessed 25 November 2020].

BlackBook. 2020. Indulging In The Divine Decadence Of Bob Fosse’s ‘Cabaret’ | Blackbook. [online] Available at: <https://blackbookmag.com/arts-culture/film/indulging-divine-decadence-bob-fosses-cabaret/> [Accessed 25 November 2020].

DangerousMinds. 2020. Life Is A Cabaret: Christopher Isherwood On The Real Sally Bowles, Berlin, Writing And W. H. Auden. [online] Available at: <https://dangerousminds.net/comments/life_is_a_cabaret_christopher_isherwood_on_the_real_sally_bowles_berlin> [Accessed 25 November 2020].

DangerousMinds. 2020. ‘Divine Decadence, Darling’: Photos From Behind The Scenes Of Bob Fosse’S ‘Cabaret’. [online] Available at: <https://dangerousminds. net/comments/divine_decadence_darling_photos_from_the_filming_of_cabaret1> [Accessed 25 November 2020].

Ebert, R., 2020. Cabaret Movie Review & Film Summary (1972) | Roger Ebert.

[online] Rogerebert.com. Available at: <https://www.rogerebert.com/reviews/cabaret-1972> [Accessed 25 November 2020].

Lifeislikechocolat.blogspot.com. 2020. Cabaret (1972) - Divine Decadence. [online] Available at: <https://lifeislikechocolat.blogspot.com/2010/11/cabaret-1972-divine-decadence.html> [Accessed 25 November 2020].

Ebert, R., 2020. Cabaret Movie Review & Film Summary (1972) | Roger Ebert. [online] Rogerebert.com. Available at: <https://www.rogerebert.com/reviews/cabaret-1972> [Accessed 25 November 2020].

The World of Apu. 2020. Life Is A Cabaret: The Divine Decadence Of Sally Bowles | The World Of Apu. [online] Available at: <http://www.theworldofapu.com/ life-is-a-cabaret-the-divine-decadence-of-sally-bowles/> [Accessed 25 November 2020].

R ESEA R CH BOO K

CONCE P T R ESEA R CH

1.1

m l i f The

1.1.1 INTRODUCTION The year is 1972 and Bob Fosse is the director of the famous musical Cabaret. This amazing movie is based on the once theatre version from 1966 by the compositors John Kander and Fred Ebb, who at the same time, adapted it from the novel Goodbye to Berlin, 1939, by Christopher Isherwood. Cabaret was a success on the big screen and holds the record of most obtained Oscars for a film not honored for “Best Picture”. In this project we will discuss why and what makes this film a classic and how it still has an impact in today’s society.

1.1.2 THE CAST

i ll e n i M a z i s e L l w o B y ll a as S

Helmut Griem as Baron Maximilian von Heune

s a r e p p e W Fritz l e d n e W z t i r F

Michael York as Brian Robert s

s a y e r G l e Jo s e i n o m e r e C Master of

Marisa Berenson as Natalia Landauer

1.1.3 SYNOPSIS Sally Bowles, who is an American and lives in Berlin, works at the Kit Kat Club as a singer and dancer. It is 1931, and the Nazi Party is gaining a stronger presence. Sally is suddenly stroke by love when she meets British Brian Roberts. He moves into the Boarding House with Sally to give English lessons while completing his doctorate.

At first, Sally tries to seduce Brian but she learns that he has failed to have sexual relationships in three previous occasions, therefore they become friends. Brian acknowledges Sally’s bohemian lifestyle.

After Sally’s father canceled their meeting, Brian consoles her and suddenly become lovers. They both conclude that the previous were “the wrong three girls”. After delivering her dirty laundry, Sally meets Maximilian von Heune, a rich playboy who is also a Baron, and befriends her and Brian. Max, eventually starts spoiling, seducing and sleeping with both of them.

After an argument, Sally and Brian learned they both had been sleeping with Max and later compared the 300 marks he left Sally with, to the money a prostitute earns.

Furthermore, Sally learns that she is pregnant but as she had slept with Max and Brian, she now is unsure of who the father is. Brian proposes to Sally and asks her to come live with him in Cambridge.

She gets demotivated by the thought of having to change diapers and take care of the baby, therefore she has an abortion. Brian had no idea of her decision so he returns to England and Sally stays in Berlin working at Kit Kat club.

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1.1.4 POSTER ANALYSIS One of the most iconic posters of this movie is the

We also have the famous “Caba-

one for the US with the colorful font and black bac-

ret” font that gives the illusion of it

kground. This poster features Sally Bowles on top of

being an outdoor sign with lit light

the font spelling “Cabaret” as if it were a chair. We can

bulbs. On top of that, we see that

also spot the words “Life is a” which is referring to the

they are highlighting the appea-

opening song “Life is a Cabaret”. This is a simple but

rance of Liza Minelli in the movie

attractive poster as it catches your attention very fast.

playing Sally Bowles. It is important

On the other hand, we have a more descriptive poster used to promote the movie in Italy. It features Sally, posing on a chair wearing her show outfit and apparent-

to mention that Cabaret is Liza’s debut in Hollywood. T he following posters are from

ly dancing. We can see her touching her arm in a very

some of the countries where the

flirtatious way as well as a sexy face. In the background,

movie was premiered. It can be

we can spot the Brandenburger Tor with a crowd in

seen that the posters have a varie-

black and white and in full color a nazi flag hanging

ty of styles that define the coun-

from what once was Berlin’s entrance. In the lower left

try they are from. The styles vary

corner we spot a couple that seems to be Sally and

within how the country interprets

Brian riding a bike and holding an umbrella.

the movie.

USA

1.1.5 THE DIRECTOR

Bob Fosse After creating his own musical

cago. In 1974 he created an unexpected movie called

number, at just the age 13 he made

Lenny, which was a biography from the comedian Lenny

his first tour. At age 15 he created

Bruce. It was a total failure due to its strange realism

his first choreography about “That

and hypnotic feel.

old magic” by Cole Porter. This choreography was like no other.

Later he directed All that Jazz, which made him win a

Dancers wore ostrich feathers stra-

Palme d’Or in Cannes. This movie was a fresh autobio-

tegically placed to exaggerate se-

graphy and Bob was interpreted by Roy Scheider, who

xual desire. This will later become a

had a great resemblance to Bob.

signature in all his choreographies.

Years later he dedicated only to Broadway producIn 1948 he debuted as a theater

tions. Surprisingly he died from a heart attack just as

dancer and only five years later in

his character in his autobiography. He was not only an

the movie industry. After a long

incredible choreographer but an amazing and authentic

journey with theatre and acting,

filmmaker.

he became a film director with the movie “Sweet Charity”; also, his wife had already been in the Broadway production as main lead.

The movie was a total failure, which in the end, made Bob famous for his amazing contribution to film and new musical approach with assembly and camera setting.

Later Cabaret, consecrated him as a filmmaker. He won an Oscar for Best Director and the movie won 8 awards which also meant the start of Liza’s Minelli incredible career. Later Bob reunited with song authors John Kander y Fred Ebb, to create Broadway musical Chi-

Director’s eye

Most of the times, during

write new songs to help tell

rehearsals, he would choreo-

the stories that showed what

graph using hats or gloves. He

he wanted. This is how songs

was highly stylized and had a

like “Money, money” or “Mein

very sexual style of choreogra-

herr” were born. It is said that

phy.

he created a musical “without songs”, which is false. He

In terms of directing Caba-

made sure that every song was

ret, he made sure to eliminate

perfectly integrated into the

every song that did not have

plot of the movie, by develo-

place inside the Kit Kat Club.

ping them only at the Kit Kat

He also asked the authors to

Club.

1.1.6 FILM LOCATION The filming of Cabaret took place in west Germany as well as rehearsals. Later, due to economic reasons, some scenes were filmed at Bavaria Film Studios just outside Munich.

Editing was later made in Los Angeles. This studio was founded in 1919 and has been the home of films such as Paths of Glory by Stanley Kubrick, The sound of Music by Robert Wise, Willy Wonka and Chocolate Factory by Mel Stuart, among many others.

1.1.7 SOUNDTRACK Bob Foss decided to develop all the songs only inside the Kit Kat Club to give the movie a feeling of detachment of the real world.

These are two iconic tracks that represent the movie:

“Maybe this time”

This is a song written by John Kander and

“Cabaret” This song is also written by John Kander

Fred Ebb specifically for actress Kaye Ballard

and Fred Ebb. It is interpreted by Sally played

with a completely different purpose. It was

by Liza Minelli, in the Kit Kat Club in 1931.

later included in Cabaret and is sung by Liza

She sings this song after her lover, Brian, tells

Minelli’s character, Sally. “The singer (Sally)

her to come back to the UK to live with him

sings of her hope that, against all odds, this

and raise their child together in a peaceful

time her love affair is going to last.” (H2G2,

country. Sally opposes to this idea, as she

2004) This song can be described as heart-

likes her life in Berlin. This song mainly talks

breaking but at the same time, hopeful.

about talking time to go on a Holiday and invites people to come to the Cabaret. It also openly talks about sexual experimentation, drinking, partying and being carefree, which basically represents Sally’s personality.

g n i d n a t s r e 1.2 Und n o i t a v o n n Film I

30’S 1.2.1 DECADE ANALYSIS For this segment, two decades will be analyzed, the 30’s which is when the movie is based and the 70’s which is when the movie was filmed.

70’S 1.2.1.1 MOVIES Even though Cabaret is based in the 1930’s, the movie was essentially filmed during the 70s, therefore it is crucial to analyze what movies were influencing the making of the movie.

The following movies changed the way people view cinema. These movies brought groundbreaking especial effects, controversial topics and most importantly immense budgets that challenged the media industry until today.

s e i v o m s ’ 70 The Godfather, 1972 The exorcist, 1973 Saturday nigh fever, 1975 Jaws, 1975 Carrie, 1976 Starwars, 1977

1.2.1.2 SOCIAL MOVEMENTS

30’S

Cabaret is based in one of the darkest times of human history.

Warner Brothers, 1930:

In this section, the 1930’s and 1970’s will be analyzed in order to

Warner Brothers Studio relea-

have a wider overview of the circumstances this film was develo-

sed the first All-Talking All-Co-

ped and filmed in.

lor wide-screen movie. This film was “Song of the Flame”,

The Great Depression, 1930: The crash of the stock market

although in 1930 they released

in 1929, caused The Great

more than 10 movies of this

Depression in 1930. Ameri-

type. This event encouraged

cans now were buying clothes

young aspiring actors and ac-

and items that could last for

tresses to pursue their careers

years, instead of changing

in film.

their wardrobes every season.

In the beginning of the 1930’s

Adolf Hitler appointed

approximately 15 million wor-

Chancellor of Germany,

kers were unemployed. (A&E

1933: Hitler established a

Television Networks, 2014).

totalitarian regime, also known

Dust storms, unemployment

as Third Reich. “Hitler swiftly

and poverty were some of the

consolidated power, anointing

reasons why people called this

himself Führer (supreme lea-

decade “The dirty thirties”.

der) in 1934”. (History, 2020)

Unemployed pro-

Poland Invasion, 1939:

tests,1930: The communists

Hitler’s invasion to Poland,

took action in the US and

caused Great Britain and Fran-

organized marches of several

ce to declare war on Germany.

kinds, such as hunger marches,

This marks the beginning of

eviction marches and unem-

WWII. World War Two helped

ployed marches. Police were

end The Great Depression, as

repressing these demons-

governments were spending

trations by the Unemployed

money for war efforts.

Council. Beatings and arrests were frequent.

1.2.1.2 SOCIAL MOVEMENTS

70’S

Environmental movements, 1970’s: This decade established a lifestyle that many wanted to pursue: environmentally cons-

cious. The first Earth Day was celebrated on April 22nd. In New York, millions of people gathered to raise awareness of upcoming environmental issues.

Pentagon Papers, 1971: Pentagon papers were published by the New York Times. These papers contained confidential information about the government lying about not extending the Vietnam any further and sending an undercover aerial attack to the state of Laos.

against of abortion.

Homosexuality, 1973: Being homosexual is declassified as a mental disorder. The American Psychiatric Association (APA) classified it now as “sexual orientation disturbance”.

Technology revolution, 1976: Apple and Microsoft are founded as computer com-

Legal abortion, 1973: The supreme court of the United Sta-

panies and became the most

tes, decriminalized abortion in 1973 with some time restrictions

innovative and popular of the

about the pregnancy. This caused several protests in favor and

time.

1.2.1.3 FASHION

30’S

Trends:

Midi length + bias cut dresses Puff sleeves Belted waists Hollywood evening gowns Short slick hair Key looks: Working girl: More man made fabrics were becoming available and inventions like the zipper made garments easier and faster to produce. Eventually more women started working and needed to dress functionally but still keep their elegant and feminine style.

Sports casual: Women started getting involved in outdoor activities. Being helthy, active and fit became trendy. With influences from sailors and militaries, the lounge pant and wide leg trouser were produced. They gave a casual but still chic look.

Hollywood glam: There was a great need for escapism as a result of the Great Depression. Women were spending their free time at the cinema to see what their favorite celebrities were wearing. These stars wore romantic and glamorous evening dresses that later became

an inspiration for home dress making and imitations in ready to wear catalogues.

Comparison to the 70s: The 30s was a decade full of freedom. Sexual empowerment was starting to become a strong dylema between women. They were seeking to embrace their bodies and necessities as they pleased. In the 70’s something similar happened, mostly with fashion. Women started to dress with lose garments and did not care greatly about showing their slim figures.

1.2.1.3 FASHION

70’S

Trends:

Peasant blouses/ band t-shirts Homemade decorations (embroidery) Denim wear Pants + blouses Platform shoes Puffy Hair Key looks: The hippie look: The hippie look of the 60’s carried over to early 70’s. This style included garments such as midi skirts, bottom pants, tie dye, bell bottom jeans and ponchos.

Dressy casual: The change started with women wearing more dressy looks with garments like dresses with a fitted wide lapel blazer, sweaters and cardigans.

Colors like yellow, peach and baby blue were trendy.

Disco: In the mid-late 70’s Disco styles took over. Women usually wore wrap dresses, sequined items, tube tops and chunky heels. Comparison to the 70s:

Comparison to the 30s: As women started working in the 30’s, they were looking for comfortable but beautiful garments. Something similar happened in the 70’s when outdoor activities became popular. Women started wearing pants with blouses to look beautiful but feel comfortable while doing activities that required more movement.

S ’ 30

1.2.1.4 FASHION ICONS

Bette Davis

h c i r t e i D e n e Marl

Ginger Rogers

Jean Harlow

These women were chosen for their attitude towards defing the perception of beauty and how influential they were for women that loved going to the cinema. ‘Hollywood wanted me to be pretty, but I fought for realism.’-Bette Davis. ‘I dress for myself. Not for the image, not for the public, not for fashion, not for men.’ -Marlene Dietrich.

1.2.1.4 FASHION ICONS

70’S

Bianca Jagger

g r e b n e t s r u F Diane Von

Nico

Peggy Lipton

These icons not only wore fashion, they lived it. Some were muses and models for designers like YSL. Diane launched her signature wrap dress in 1973 and it is still present nowadays. Women like Peggy, were the perfect example of haute hippie with her signature looks. Nico was also selected for her work as a model in Berlin and how she became a cult figure and style beagon.

1.2.2 VALUES Sexual empowerment: Cabaret tells the story of Brian as a bisexual, which at the time was not well accepted. We can also see sexual empowerment present in Sally. She is an empowered woman who chooses to live her sexuality as she pleases without caring what others think about her.

Freedom: Sally is a care-free woman that lives her life at the fullest. She knows what she wants and takes it. She also feels free to talk about her sex life and to ask others about it too. Cabaret also shows us another side of Sally when she decides to get an abortion.

These topics were very controversial still for the time the movie is based on and for when it was filmed.

Confidence: The Kit Kat Club has beautiful dancers performing every night. We can see

they are extremely confident about her bodies and the way they dress and dance. Also, Sally is very confident with herself, with how she speaks, moves and dresses.

Antisemitism: With the rise of the Nazi Party, indifference and ostracism are present in Germany. People did not care about others being in trouble, just because the trouble is not theirs.

Jews were being excluded, mistreated and hated on. Even though the hatred towards them was growing, everybody else was being hostile and indifferent.

Disinterest: Cabaret is making its audience face the indifference and disinterest that the jews received during this period of time. This film reminds us that we still have the chance to choose and do right for others.

It encourages us to raise our voice with national and international social issues even though it does not affect us directly.

1.2.3 INFLUENCE OF THE FILM Cabaret had a great influence in 1970’s and todays society. It faced people with the fact of how indifferent everybody is towards national and international social issues. These issues affect a minority in society, which makes them more vulnerable. In a way, Cabaret is a satire, using the Kit Kat Club as a shelter from the outside world and being indifferent with people who are suffering.

In 1970, women were starting to get access to universities and businesses that were usually dominated by men. With films like Cabaret, topics like sexuality and women’s liberation, made conservatives very uncomfortable.

On the other hand, it also made people feel safe and understood, specially women and people doubting their sexual preferences. Today’s society, is more awoke and aware than ever. With movements like Black Lives Matter and He for She in the US, films like Cabaret have encouraged people to fight for what is right and raise their voices for others. We are crea ting a more empathic world for the upcoming generations.

g n i d n a t s r e 1.3 Und n o i t a c i n u m m o C m Fil 1.3.1 KEY ELEMENTS Cabaret was filmed fully in sound and color. Bob Fosse decided to keep almost all musical numbers inside the Kit Kat Club with the sole purpose of creating a bubble in which people would hide from the real world. The songs presented connect with the plot and the characters issues but they also take the viewer more in depth into the movie. The colors in this film are bright, vibrant and eye catching; most importantly at the Kit Kat Club, where everything is placed to make the viewers feel like in a different world. Dancers are wearing sparkling and colorful costumes that are enhanced with the scenario lights. Also, the song and dances contribute to create this bubble and submerge the viewers into a fantasy world.

1.3.2 FILM TECHNIQUES

Close up shot: we can see the reflection of the MC on a wall of the cabaret and he starts singing with a smile of mystery of his face.

This shot reveals very little of this character but it gives us the idea of what emotions he is trying to transmit.

Low angle: This is the first time we see Brian. This scene was shot with a low angle to make him look powerful as he has just arrived to a new city where he expects to become successful.

Over the shoulder shot: This is the first time Brian and Sally meet.

This angle is usually used to create tension meaning that something interesting will happen between these two characters.

1.3.2 FILM TECHNIQUES

Eye level angle: Brian realizes that the “woman” behind him in the restroom is in reality a man. We can clearly see his expression of confusion.

Close up: Brian and Sally’s head on this scene. This reveals a kiss between both of them. Brian looks uncomfortable as Sally kisses him.

Long shot + zoom out: We see Sally perform for the first time. This shot gives us a clearer idea of the space and setting of the Kit Kat Club.

1.3.3 FILM COMMUNICATION

Indifference: Max and Brian discuss how he does not care that the Nazis just killed somebody on the street.

Sexual empowerment: Sally and Brian both sleep with Max just because they wanted to.

1.3.3 FILM COMMUNICATION

Surprise: In a close up shot we see a beautiful blonde boy singing with an angelic voice. Then the camera zooms out and lower and we learn that he is a Nazi.

Sensuality: Sally embraces her body, sexuality and sensuality by the way she acts, dances, dresses and talks.

g n i d n a t s r e d n 1.4 U shion Fa n o i t a c i n u m Com 1.4.1 COSTUME DESIGNER

Charlotte Flemming was in charge of the costume designs. She added a touch of peculiarity to the garments that the character Sally wore. One of the iconic looks she wore is at an English lesson were she famously said “bumsening”.

This is a notable outfit the eccentricity of it. Even though some elements of the 70’s were added, the 30’s were still very noticeable. We can see “Neuen Frauen” with bobbed hair, wearing very short skirts and stockings.

1.4.2 CHARACTER

This character was chosen for this section because of her great

DEVELOPMENT

influence in fashion and it was concluded that her identity is more

AND IDENTITY

Sally Bowles

developed through her style than any other character.

Sally firmly advocates using underwear as outwear. She wears pijamas, nightdresses and kimonos every day. When she is on stage at night, Bowles is clearly a big fan of male bowler hats, combined with a backless leotard or dress, focusing on the collarbone and shoulder blades. Sally’s appearance is consistent, her strong beauty, her

seductive slender eyebrows, opa-

Bowles is colorful, hooking, and poisonous. In the end,

que colored eyeshadow, spider-like

Minnelli successfully defended a powerful woman who

eyelashes and the most importantly

admitted her defects, but also poured a glass of wine

emerald green nails.

and put on lipstick to put herself together.

Sally Bowles’ influence on contemporary fashion and culture is

Semiotic analysis: It is important to highlight that this character repre-

dramatic. Her charisma continues

sents divine decadence itself. Throughout the entire

to astonish the entire industry.

film the feature that never changes is her emerald green

Especially Sally as a character has

nail polish. In one of the first scenes, Sally emphazises

greatly influenced queer culture.

that her nails symbolize divine decadence. This gives us

Her style reflects the gender ste-

a clearer view of how this charecter will further develop

reotypes created by many singers

as well as an idea of what her style is. She enjoys feeling

and actresses in the 20s and 30s.

different and being always on the edge of being criti-

Furthermore, the drag queen

zed. Her dreams of becoming an actress also influence

community undoubtedly turned to

her style. We can see her wearing fancy evening dresses

this character for inspiration. Sally

or kimonos as outwear.

CONCE P T DEVELO P M EN T

y r a r o p m e t n o C 2.1 e c n e d evi 2.1.1 FILM REFERENCES

“I am Camera” a play by John

“The Damned” (1969). The Nazis

Van Druten. Adapted from the sto-

rise to power is chronicled against

ries of Christopher Isherwood.

the backdrop of the decadent world of the Weimar Republic.

2.1.2 COLLABORATIVE ART

Otto Dix, 1926, “Portrait of the journalist Sylvia Von Harden”

Otto Dix, Self Portrait with Easel, 1926

Andy Warhol Polaroids, 1977

2.1.3 INFLUENCE IN CONTEMPORARY CULTURE

Fashion German Vogue January 2008 issue: inspired in Cabaret

Marc Jacobs “Divine Decadence” perfume

Numéro Magazine August 2013 issue

Risque Cabaret by Philip Bala

Music

ABBA, Money money money: The music video was inspired by Cabaret and we can see Frida wearing a hat from the 1930’s.

Cinema Glee, The Rhodes not taken (2009): Rachel sings “Cabaret”

Alex Strangelove (2018): At a house party, Alex and Clair are welcomed by the MC character from Cabaret saying “Willkommen”

e v i s u l c n o c y e 2.2 K ages im Campbell Addy for T Magazine Spain June 2018

Lissy Elle Laricchia

After Show byJeanElisabeth Erm By Sanchez & Baptiste Mondino Mongiello For Numéro #145 for Numero Magazine #7 9 August 2013

Initiation,for the Lab Magazine by Juco

Abbey Lee Kershaw by Mario Sorrenti

Art Department - Hair Stylist Clay Nielsen January 2008 issue of German Vogue Lookbooks, 2020

Coco Rocha for Design Scene Magazine by Igor Cvoro

Lisa Verberght by Frederik Heyman for Tush Magazine Fall 2014

Hannah Khymych

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Women empowerment

Entertainment Beliefs

Fascism

Social indifference

Money

REFERENCES

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Anderson, K., 2020. CABARET 1972. [online] Lecinemadreams.blogspot.com.

Available at: <https://lecinemadreams.blogspot.com/2015/07/cabaret-1972.html> [Accessed 26 November 2020].

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FilmAffinity. 2020. Filmaffinity. [online] Available at: <https://www.filmaffinity.com/ es/filmimages.php?movie_id=307971> [Accessed 26 November 2020].

Foxy, T., 2020. 1930S Fashion & Style Guide For Dresses & Clothing. [online] Thehouseoffoxy.com. Available at: <https://www.thehouseoffoxy.com/1930s/a41> [Accessed 27 November 2020].

Gradesaver.com. 2020. Director&Rsquo;S Influence On Cabaret (Film). [online] Available at: <https://www.gradesaver.com/cabaret-film/study-guide/directors-influence> [Accessed 26 November 2020].

HISTORY. 2020. The 1930S. [online] Available at: <http://www.history.com/topics/1930s> [Accessed 26 November 2020].

REFERENCES

HISTORY. 2020. World War II. [online] Available at: <https://www.history.com/topics/world-war-ii/world-war-ii-history> [Accessed 26 November 2020].

IMDb. 2020. Bob Fosse - Imdb. [online] Available at: <https://www.imdb.com/ name/nm0002080/bio?ref_=nm_ov_bio_sm> [Accessed 26 November 2020].

IMDb. 2020. The 100 Best Films Of The 1970’S - Imdb. [online] Available at: <https://www.imdb.com/list/ls000019899/> [Accessed 26 November 2020].

Including Social Movements. 2020. The 1930’S. [online] Available at: <https:// includingsocialmovements.wordpress.com/the-30s-2/> [Accessed 26 November 2020].

Love4Musicals. 2020. CABARET, La Película - Love4musicals. [online] Available at: <https://www.love4musicals.com/2013/04/02/cabaret-la-pelicula/> [Accessed 26 November 2020].

Ltd, N., 2020. H2g2 - John Kander And Fred Ebb - Composer And Lyricist Edited Entry. [online] H2g2.com. Available at: <https://h2g2.com/edited_entry/ A839081> [Accessed 26 November 2020].

Marie Claire. 2020. 1930S Fashion And The Women Who Defined The Thirties

Style. [online] Available at: <https://www.marieclaire.co.uk/fashion/1930s-fashionthe-women-who-defined-thirties-style-78149> [Accessed 27 November 2020].

Smith, C. and Smith, C., 2020. Bob Fosse, ‘Cabaret,’ And The Performer’s Eye For Filmmaking. [online] Film School Rejects. Available at: <https://filmschoolrejects. com/bob-fosse-cabaret/> [Accessed 26 November 2020].

Teather, C., 2020. High-Waisted Denim, Floral Dresses And Fringing - How The Seventies Inspired Our Current Wardrobes. [online] Glamour UK. Available at: <https://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/gallery/70s-fashion-style-icons> [Accessed 27 November 2020].

Vintagedancer.com. 2020. What Did Women Wear In The 1930S? 1930S Fashion Guide. [online] Available at: <https://vintagedancer.com/1930s/women-1930s-fashion/> [Accessed 26 November 2020].