History of fashion and contemporary fashion research book

ISSUE

History of fashion and contemporary fashion research book

Almudena Solano Robledo BA Fa s h i o n M a r k e t i n g a n d c o m m u n i c a t i o n Level 4, 2018/2019 4 FA D E 0 1 6 C Fa s h i o n a n d A r t CWK1 A n n a Ro w e a n d A l e i x Pe r d i g ó Wo r d c o u n t : 2 0 9 6

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History of fashion and contemporary fashion research book

Almudena Solano Robledo 3

Table of Contents INTRODUCTION

HISTORICAL ROOTS

THE SLIP DRESS

TREND IN THE FUTURE

JUSTIFICATION

KITTEN HEELS

FASHION SEGMENTS

JUSTIFICATION

HISTORICAL ROOTS

FASHION SEGMENTS

TREND IN THE FUTURE

HISTORICAL ROOTS

THE BUCKET HAT

TREND IN THE FUTURE

JUSTIFICATION

CONCLUSION

FASHION SEGMENTS

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History of fashion and contemporary fashion research book

Almudena Solano Robledo 5

H I S TO RY O F FA S H I O N

and contemporar y fashion research book

T

his research book has as a n o b j e c t i v e t h e i nv e s t i gation of current trends throughout fashion h i s t o r y.

Three trends of the season SS19 will be introduced and later on an anlysis of the historical roots of e a c h o f t h e t r e n d s w i l l b e m a d e.

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Magazine Name

THE SLIP DRESS

Trend presentation The slip dress is a short or long dress usually with spaghetti straps and a bias cut. It is revealing and very lightweight. The most comm o n f a b r i c s a r e s i l k , p o l ye s t e r s a t i n s , c h i f f o n among others. This dress was brought back to life with the phenomenon “underwear as o u t w e a r ” i n t h e 2 0 t h c e n t u r y. T h e s l i p d r e s s is a timeless trend. This dress is mostly wor n by w o m e n w i t h t o n e d b o d i e s a n d a c o n f i d e n t a t t i t u d e. I t h a s b e e n w o r n f r o m M a r i lyn Monroe in the 50s to models like Emily Ratajkowski in 2018 and it seems to never tur n old fashioned. It is also very trendy to wear a white t-shirt under neath the slip dress transfor ming it more as an outer gar ment.

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Justification of the trend

E M I LY R ATA J K W S K I , 2 0 1 8

J E N N I F E R L AW R E N C E , 2018

J O R DY N WO O D S , 2 0 1 8

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History of fashion and contemporary fashion research book

H A I L E Y BA L DW I N, 2019

R I H A N NA , 2 0 1 8

Z E N DAYA , 2 0 1 8

Almudena Solano Robledo 9

S E L E NA G O M E Z , 2 0 1 8

J U L I E S A R I Ñ A NA , 2 0 1 9

SOPHIE TURNER, 2019

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History of fashion and contemporary fashion research book

R I TA O R A , 2 0 1 8

Almudena Solano Robledo 11

V E R S AC E , S S 1 9

Connections with other fashion segments

BA L E N C I AG A , S S 1 8

The slip dress has been seen on r u n w a y s f o r b r a n d s l i k e Ve r s a c e, S t e l l a M c C a r t n e y, Pa c o R a b a n n e and Balenciaga just to mention a f e w. T h e s e a r e c l a s s i c h i g h f a s h ion brands and alter native high fashion. Nevertheless, we can also find slip dresses from brands like Z a r a , P u l l a n d B e a r, H & M , a m o n g others. These brands belong to the fast fashion segment. This means we can find slip dresses from many different brands and prices.

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History of fashion and contemporary fashion research book

Historical roots about the trend 1 5 t h c e n t u r y ( t h e 1 9 4 0 ’s ) C h e mise: the chemise is a lightweight and loose fitting dress made out of linen, that women wore as an undershirt. It served as a protection f o r c l o t h i n g f r o m t h e s k i n’s o i l s a n d sweat.

1 7 0 0 ’s : a n u p d a t e d v e r s i o n w a s w o r n by t h e Fr e n c h c o u r t a s a l e i s u r e g a r m e n t . I t w a s w o r n ov e r a c o r s e t and a petticoat.

C o rs e t s b e c a m e m o r e p o p u l a r a n d t h i s held back the evolution of the chemise.

1 9 2 0 ’s : T h e f l a p p e r d r e s s e s l i b e r ate women from the corset.

1 9 3 0 ’s : t h e i n t r o d u c t i o n o f b i a s cut slip dresses. They allowed more m ov e m e n t a n d c o m f o r t a b i l i t y t o t h e dresses. Also, the dresses became long e r.

1 9 4 0 ’s - 5 0 ’s : “ S l i p d r e s s e s h a d m u c h m o r e g l a m o u r, t h e b u s t s w e r e more defined and it had more embell i s h m e n t d e t a i l s , f o r i n s t a n c e, l a c e. ” ( S t a r t U p FA S H I O N, 2 0 1 9 ) 1 9 6 0 ’s : t h e s l i p d r e s s r e m a i n e d t h e s a m e, a l b e i t s h o r t e r t o f i t m i n i s k i r t s b e t t e r.

I n t h e ‘ 7 0 s, s l i p d r e s s e s d i s a p p e a r e d b e c a u s e d e s i g n e rs s t a r t e d a d d i n g b u i l t - i n l i n ings . Slip dresses became obsolete.

1 9 9 0 ’s : g r u n g e a n d m i n i m a l i s m bring the slip dress back. Most of these dresses were short and very

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2 0 0 0 ’s : T h e s l i p d r e s s c o n tinous to be on trend. It has d i f f e r e n t v a r i a t i o n s : s h o r t e r, l o n g e r, v e l v e t , s i l k , l a c e, e m b r o i d e r y, c a s u a l o r e v e n f o r premieres.

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History of fashion and contemporary fashion research book

Projection of the trend into the future The slip dress has been on trend for several ye a r s . N o w a d a y s , t h e s l i p d r e s s i s a n e s s e n t i a l gar ment that every woman needs in her closet. It is combined with many other pieces like sweaters o r w h i t e t - s h i r t s , w h i c h c o u l d b e w o r n ov e r o r under neath a slip dress. Most of the slip dresses seen on the street are made of silk, this means that silk slip dresses will dominate for the rest o f t h e ye a r. We c a n c o n c l u d e b a s e d o n w h a t h a s been seen on previous events, fashion shows or on the street, that the slip dress will remain as a trend because of its versatility and ease to combine with other pieces.

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History of fashion and contemporary fashion research book

THE BU C K E T H AT

Trend presentation A bucket hat is a hat usually made out o f c o t t o n f a b r i c s , f o r i n s t a n c e, d e n i m o r h e av y w o o l , f o r i n s t a n c e, t w e e d . N o w a d a y s we can find an enor mous variety of bucket hats with different types of fabric. It gets the name of “bucket hat” due to the appearance of wearing an upside-down bucket on the head. This traditionally Irish hat was f i r s t w o r n by f i s h e r m e n o r f a r m e r s w i t h t h e main pur pose of protecting from the weathe r. To d a y i t i s u s e d a s a n o u t d o o r a c c e s s o r y.

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R I H A N NA , 2 0 1 8

LU C A S H E D G E S, 2 0 1 9

D UA L I PA , 2 0 1 8

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History of fashion and contemporary fashion research book

B E L L A H A D I D, 2 0 1 9

K E N DA L L J E N N E R , 2019

E M I LY R ATA J K W S K I , 2 0 1 8

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KAIA GERBER, 2018

L E W I S H A M I LTO N, 2017

B E L L A H A D I D, 2 0 1 8

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History of fashion and contemporary fashion research book

GIZELE OLIVEIRA, 2019

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P R A DA , F W 1 8

Connections with other fashion segments

DIOR, FW19

B u c k e t h a t s h av e b e e n s e e n o n runway shows from brands like B u r b e r r y, D o l c e & G a b b a n a , D i o r o r Va l e n t i n o . T h e s e b r a n d s b e l o n g to the classic high fashion segment. Nevertheless, it is also seen in runway shows from brands like Prada or Gucci, that belong to the alter native high fashion segment.

Also, these hats are now seen in the fast fashion segment as well, with brands like Zara or Bershka.

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History of fashion and contemporary fashion research book

Historical roots about the trend 1 6 8 0 ’s : T h e t r i c o r n h a t w a s w o r n m o s t l y by s a i l o r s a n d p i r a t e s w i t h t h e p u r p o s e o f c ov e r i n g f r o m t h e s u n w h i l e s a i l i n g. T h i s h a t w a s b r i m m e d on three sides, creating a triangle s h a p e f r o m a b ov e.

1 7 0 0 ’s : A n a d a p t i o n o f t h e s e h a t s was used for military unifor ms and civilian fashion as well.

Be gere or shepherdess hats became popular among women. T hey were a widebrimmed hat and it represented wealth.

T hey were used to keep their skin fair d u r i n g t h e s u m m e r.

1 9 t h c e n t u r y : Tr i c o r n h a t s b e came bicor n hats. They were popul a r i z e d by N a p o l e o n B o n a p a r t e.

1 9 0 0 ’s : T h e b i c o r n h a t b e c a m e a full brimmed hat. It was especially u s e d by t h e f i s h e r m e n i n I r e l a n d a n d served as protection from the sun and r a i n . N o r m a l l y, i t w a s m a d e o f w o o l .

1 9 3 0 ’s : W W I I t r o o p f o r c e s m i l i tarized this brimmed hat. They used c o t t o n t o k e e p s o l d i e r ’s h e a d s f r e s h a n d d r y.

1 9 6 0 ’s : B u c k e t h a t s b e c a m e p o p u lar when they were showcased in TV s h o w s l i k e G i l l i g a n’s I s l a n d .

1 9 7 0 ’s : Bucket hats populari z e d a m o n g h i p h o p c u l t u r e. I b e c a m e “ a w a y t o i d e n t i f y yo u r s e l f as a cultural practitioner or devot e e o f h i p h o p. ” ( C o c h r a n e, 2 0 1 9 )

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1 9 8 0 ’s : B u c k e t h a t s g a i n e d t h e m o s t p o p u l a r i t y. T h e y w e r e u s e d i n m a n y a l b u m c ov e r s b u t they were still not considered as high fashion.

Bucket hats were rejected by fashion and this held back its evolution as a trend.

2 0 0 0 ’s : M i u c c i a P r a d a t r i e d to bring bucket hats into the high fashion world and mainstream in her spring/summer 2 0 0 5 r u n w a y s h o w.

2019: nostalgia brings back bucket hats. Rihanna even launches her own line called M $ x W T.

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History of fashion and contemporary fashion research book

Projection of the trend into the future Bucket hats are being highly purc h a s e d o n p l a t f o r m s l i k e A S O S. A c t u a l l y, t h e y r e v e a l e d t h a t b u c k e t h a t p u r c h a s e s h av e i n c r e a s e d 3 4 5 % i n t h e l a s t ye a r. B u c k e t h a t s h av e a l ways been present but they were not a part of the high fashion segment u n t i l t h i s ye a r. Pe r h a p s , b u c k e t h a t s will be on trend for the rest of 2019 but they will slowly start to fade in t h e n e x t ye a r s . B u c k e t h a t s w i l l a l ways be remembered as fisher men h a t s t h a t m a d e i t t o t h e r u n w a y.

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History of fashion and contemporary fashion research book

KITTEN HEELS

Trend presentation Kitten heels are “short stiletto heels with a slight curve setting the heel in from the b a c k e d g e o f t h e s h o e ” . ( E n . w i k i p e d i a . o r g, 2019) The heel has to be around 3.5 to 4.75 cm in order to be a true kitten heel.

These heels were launched in the 50s for teenage girls. They were considered trainer heels because of their shortness and comf o r t a b i l i t y. T h e s e t r a i n i n g h e e l s w e r e c a l l e d “ k i t t e n h e e l s ” b e c a u s e o f yo u n g g i r l s a l s o known as kittens. These heels were later u s e d by w o m e n o f a l l a g e s a n d w e r e p o p u l a r i z e d by A u d r e y H e p b u r n i n t h e 6 0 s .

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L I LY- RO S E D E P P, 2 0 1 8

K E N DA L L J E N N E R , 2018

G I G I H A D I D, 2 0 1 8

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History of fashion and contemporary fashion research book

K AT E M I D D L E TO N, 2018

MEGAN MARKLE, 2018

M I C H E L L E O BA M A , 2018

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E M M A N U E L L E A LT, 2018

TAY L O R S W I F T, 2 0 1 8

KELSY SIMONE, 2019

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History of fashion and contemporary fashion research book

E M I LY R ATA J K W S K I , 2 0 1 7

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VA L E N T I N O S T U D K I T T E N H E E L S

Connections with other fashion segments

DIOR, FW19

K i t t e n h e e l s h av e b e e n a t o t a l success on runway shows and on the s t r e e t . D i f f e r e n t b r a n d s h av e i n cluded them in their shows in very d i f f e r e n t s t y l e s , f o r i n s t a n c e, k i t t e n heel sandals. Brands from the classic high fashion segment like Dior a n d Va l e n t i n o , h av e l a u n c h e d t h e i r own line of kitten heels. Although this is a recent trend, brands from the fast fashion segment like Zara, h av e l a u n c h e d t h e i r o w n k i t t e n heels as well.

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History of fashion and contemporary fashion research book

Historical roots about the trend 1 4 0 0 ’s : F i r s t a p p e a r a n c e o f h e e l s w i t h t h e i nv e n t i o n o f t h e c h o p i n e s which were high platfor m heels.

1 6 0 0 ’s : N e a r l y 1 0 0 ye a r s l a t e r, E u ropean aristocracy started wearing heels as a sign of status. This also meant that the person who wore them w a s t o o w e a l t hy t o w o r k d u e t o t h e impracticality of these shoes.

17th century: Louis XIV made h e e l s a s y m b o l o f p o w e r. T h i s t r e n d later reached to lower classes but heels remained higher for the upper classes.

Heels disappeared for the 18th centur y because men had to get work done. Heels b e c a m e a “ w o m a n’s t h i n g ” w h e n p h o t o g r a p h e rs u s e d t h e m f o r e r o t i c p i c t u r e s.

1 9 2 0 ’s : O n l y w o m e n w e a r h e e l s n o w. H e m l i n e s r i s e a n d b u c k l e s h o e s a p p e a r.

1 9 4 0 ’s : S t i l e t t o h e e l s w e r e i nv e n t e d by Ro g e r Vi v i e r.

1 9 5 0 ’s : A s s t i l e t t o h e e l s g r e w p o p u l a r i t y, w o m e n h a d t o l e a r n t o w a l k i n them. Kitten heels, also called traini n g h e e l s , w e r e i nv e n t e d f o r t e e n a g e r s to prepare them for higher heels.

1 9 6 0 ’s : K i t t e n h e e l s g a i n p o p u l a r ity for g rown women as well, because o f s o c i e t y ’s a l t e r n a t i v e l i f e s t y l e a n d the great presence in the entertainm e n t i n d u s t r y.

1 9 7 0 ’s : T h e r e w a s a s h o r t d e c l i n e on the kitten heels trend because of the launch of platfor m heels.

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1 9 8 0 ’s : O s c a r d e l a Re n t a brings back Kitten heels for his fall 1988 fashion show and makes a big statement.

1 9 9 0 ’s : P r i n c e s s D i a n a p o p u l a r i z e d t h e m a g a i n by m a k i n g various appearances wearing these heels.

2 0 0 0 ’s : C o m f o r t a b i l i t y w i n s and women start wearing them with jeans and other outwear gar ments. As far as becoming the signature shoes of the former first lady of the United States, Michelle Obama.

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History of fashion and contemporary fashion research book

Projection of the trend into the future Kitten heels are now being wor n with s t r e e t s t y l e l o o k s . Je a n s , s k i r t s , d r e s s e s , jumpsuits, are only some of the gar ments with which people are wearing kitten h e e l s . T h e s e h e e l s h av e a b r i g h t f u t u r e as a trend because women are looking f o r c o m f o r t a b i l i t y m o r e e v e r y t i m e. K i t ten heels are easy to pair with many garments in addition to giving comfortability to women. Also, many luxury brands h av e l a u n c h e d t h e i r o w n p a i r o f k i t t e n heels. It is a fact that they will remain o n t r e n d f o r m a n y ye a r s m o r e.

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History of fashion and contemporary fashion research book

Conclusion We c a n c o n c l u d e t h a t t h e s e t h r e e trends come from gar ments or accessor i e s w o r n m a n y ye a r s a g o . T h e y h av e b e e n a d a p t i n g t o p e o p l e ’s l i f e s t y l e, c u l ture and needs. Each of these pieces of c l o t h i n g o r a c c e s s o r i e s , h av e b e e n a d a p t e d t h r o u g h t h e ye a r s a n d w i l l c o n t i n u e to be this way with other gar ments.

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Fashion-history.lovetoknow.com. (2019). [online] Available at: https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/clothingtypes-styles/slip [Accessed 7 May 2019].

En.wikipedia.org. (2019). Bucket hat. [online] Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bucket_hat [Accessed 7 May 2019].

Catwalk Yourself. (2019). Bucket hat - Catwalk Yourself. [online] Available at: http://www.catwalkyourself.com/ fashion-dictionary/bucket-hat/ [Accessed 8 May 2019].

StartUp FASHION. (2019). Fashion Archives: A Look at the History of the Slip Dress in Fashion. [online] Available at: https://startupfashion.com/fashion-archives-a-look-atthe-history-of-the-slip-dress-in-fashion/ [Accessed 8 May 2019].

Groce, N. and Groce, N. (2019). Audrey Hepburn, Princess Diana and Today’s It-Girls Embrace Kitten Heels. [online] Footwear News. Available at: https://footwearnews. com/2017/fashion/womens/kitten-heels-trends-audreyhepburn-princess-diana-451649/ [Accessed 8 May 2019].

CR Fashion Book. (2019). The History of the Kitten Heel. [online] Available at: https://www.crfashionbook. com/fashion/a13091112/the-history-of-the-kitten-heel/ [Accessed 8 May 2019].

Harper’s BAZAAR. (2019). This Is What High Heels Looked Like the Year You Were Born. [online] Available at: https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/street-style/ g7690/high-heels-through-the-years/?slide=71 [Accessed 8 May 2019].

Shoeshistoryfacts.com. (2019). History of Kitten Heels - Origins of Kitten Shoes. [online] Available at: http:// www.shoeshistoryfacts.com/history-of-heels/history-of-kitten-heels/ [Accessed 8 May 2019].

Gentlemenoffortune.com. (2019). Gentlemen of Fortune. [online] Available at: http://www.gentlemenoffortune.com/tricorne.htm [Accessed 9 May 2019].

Cochrane, L. (2019). From fishermen to ravers: why we can’t kick the bucket hat. [online] the Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/ mar/13/from-fishermen-to-ravers-why-we-cant-kick-thebucket-hat [Accessed 9 May 2019].

STREET x SPREZZA. (2019). A Case for The Bucket Hat. [online] Available at: https://streetxsprezza.wordpress.com/2018/07/12/a-case-for-the-bucket-hat/ [Accessed 9 May 2019].

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