Designer File
F A S H 110 : I n t r o t o F a s h i o n
Amira Hatlani
Table of Contents
I III
New York Fashion Week
II IV
London Fashion Week
Review 6 Looks & Silhouettes 7 Beauty & Accessories 8
Review 12 Looks & Silhouettes 13 Beauty & Accessories 14
Paris Fashion Week Review 18 Looks & Silhouettes 19 Beauty & Accessories 20
V
Jil Sander
Biography 30 Looks & Silhouettes 31 Advertisements 32 Details & Accessories 33 Moodboard 34
Milan Fashion Week Review 24 Looks & Silhouettes 25 Beauty & Accessories 26
new york fashion week
review
Proenza Schouler
Proenza Schouler
New York set a strong start for the following fashion weeks. In fact, New York was arguably the strongest fashion week of the season. The roster of shows continues to grow rapidly, making NYFW a fashion event to be reckoned with. According to the CFDA, the current tally of shows, presentations, and events at NYFW is 256. Designers like Rodarte and Proenza Schouler presented some of the most distinct collections, with artfully layered silhouettes and lavish details. While an air of runway sophistication remained, the trend of more edgy and masculine clothing surfaced. Collections by Vera Wang and Rihanna’s debut with FentyxPuma illustrate a rebellious theme of sorts, which noticeably carries on to the following fashion weeks.
Rodarte
looks & silhouettes + Fur details paired with bright colours were an overarching trend at NYFW. + Designers showed an edgier side. Vera Wang, for example, intermingled exposed backs with complex layers for a departure from the usual Vera Wang aesthetic. Prabal Gurung
3.1 Philip Lim
DKNY
Vera Wang Proenza Schouler
FentyxPuma
+ At FentyxPuma, Rihanna went full streetstyle grunge, with baggy silhouettes and distinct styling. +Other designers played off this theme in a more minimalistic way. DKNY, for example, presented masculine and sophisticated pieces.
beauty & accessories
Rag & Bone
Rodarte
3.1 Philip Lim
Narcisco Rodriguez
+ In terms of makeup, “less is more” was certainly the feel at this season’s shows. Rodarte presented a clean face balanced with a bold lip. At Rag & Bone, a completely bare face was the choice. + 3.1 Philip Lim dared to present sandals at their Autumn/ Winter show, and pulled it off beautifully. The thick leather upper covers most of the foot, making it an intriguing choice, even during cooler temperatures.
london fashion week
review London Fashion Week reflected its New York predecessors with themes of bold colours and rich textiles. In comparison to New York’s trend of edgy streetwear, however, London’s designers took to a more delicate theme. There was an overarching motif of surrealism, Alexander McQueen presented a dreamlike, delicate stage for its feminine gowns. Although at times indulgent in its girlish details, McQueen’s gowns bring to mind one keyword: ethereal. Christopher Kane set the stage for ethereality as well. Models walked down runways lined with large wooden and metal frames, and intense spotlights lit the garments. Finally, the trend of bright furs continued at Burberry.
Alexander McQueen
Mary Katranzou
Christopher Kane
looks & silhouettes + LFW presented a theme of indulgent details all around. Erdem showed traditional silhouettes embroidered with patterns. + The fur trend continues from New York to London, dyed in warm shades at Burberry, and even used in accessories as well. Erdem
Burberry
Alexander McQueen
Peter Pilotto Alexander McQueen
Joseph
+ Alexander McQueen maintained an air of theatricality, but with a soft, almost young and girly theme. Capes were given dimension with a quilted exterior, and dresses were painstakingly appliquĂŠd with patterns resembling chinoiserie.
beauty & accessories
Burberry
Mary Katranzou
Burberry
Christopher Kane
+ Similar to Rodarte’s makeup, Mary Katranzou opted for a clean face with a bold lip, albeit rosier cheeks than presented at Rodarte. Katranzou also styled the hair with slicked down and separated bangssomething that shouldn’t work, yet works beautifully. + Burberry maintained its warm earth tones in its accessories. Their shoe of choice, similar to Christopher Kane. was a thick-soled ankle boot with bold detail.
paris fashion week
review Paris Fashion Week showed just what one would expect from the city: elegant silhouettes constructed of rich textiles. Dior fused its signature femininity with more modern details and styling. The show had arguably the most sensational stage, a tunnel of arches in deep red and chrome that brought about ideas of permanence. Loewe presented a collection clearly inspired by art and sculpture. The set was decorated with MirÓ murals among modern concrete arches and organic wooden panels. Paris’s designers certainly showed one main strength: the ability to reinvent. Dior
Loewe
Dior
looks & silhouettes + Rick Owens presented more minimal and subtle designs while still maintaining his trademark unorthodox style, + Balmain preserved its signature luxurious pieces, with fur details, thigh high suede boots, and lace-up bodices. Rick Owens
Christian Dior
Lanvin
Balmain Vionnet
Chlo ĂŠ
+ Chlo ĂŠ stayed true to its sophisticated and organic roots. Oversized sweater dresses were perfect for minimalist Autumn style. + Dior and Lanvin showed stunning dyed furs, + Vionnet showed softer, camel hair coats with geometric patterns.
beauty & accessories
Loewe
Christian Dior
Loewe
Christian Dior
+ The clean face and bold lip remains a beauty trend at Dior, however this time the eyes are emphasised with thick coats of mascara. Hair was clean and slick, tucked away into two youthful but still tasteful buns. + Loewe went for a look of luxurious refinement. Over-the-knee suede boots fit like a second skin, elevating the garments while still not taking away from the design. Large ceramic necklaces and golden chokers hung like irreplaceable art pieces.
milan fashion week
review
Prada Giorgio Armani
Bottega Veneta
The designers at Milan Fashion week showed that high fashion can be bold, bright, and playful. The theme was modern and whimsical. Max Mara and Emilio Pucci presented sheared fur coats in unmistakable hues and geometrics patterns. Marni too took to the trend of a colourful palette, but with more structured silhouettes. Meanwhile, Alberta Ferretti mirrored Alexander McQueen’s delicate details. Gowns were embroidered with chinoiserie patterns and velvet trimmings. Bottega Veneta
looks & silhouettes + Max Mara showed more fur coats, however with a sheared texture. Bright and bold furs prove warmth doesn’t come in just dark colours. + Emilio Pucci designed gorgeous fleece outerwear with colourful organic imagery. Marni
Jil Sander
Emilio Pucci
Alberta Ferretti Max Mara
Marni
+ Alberta Ferretti evokes images of McQueen’s New York show, with chinoiserie patterns on muted gowns. + Both Marni and Jil Sander presented several white garments in their collections, Marni intermixed it with primary reds and blues on structured pieces..
beauty & accessories
Prada
Marni
Salvatore Ferragamo
Dries Van Noten
+ Marni too seemed taken by a simple beauty regimen, with a deep plum lip and bold, thick brows. Prada opted for a brighter and more classic red lipstick, paired with slicked down waves that fall ever so perfectly. + Salvatore Ferragamo channeled the fur trend into its gorgeous shoes, a fur cap toe with an ankle strap and wooden block heel. The result was nothing short of sensational, sophisticated yet whimsical.
jil sander
biography
Sander near her studio in Hamburg in 1968.
When it comes to minimalist fashion, German fashion designer Jil Sander is an indispensable influence within the industry. Sander was born in Wesselburen, Germany in 1943, and attended the Krefold School of Textiles in 1963. She then attended UCLA, which then lead her to editing fashion magazines in New York. She created her first collection in 1968, but her debut at Paris Fashion Week wasn’t until 1973. Sander quickly became recognized for her minimal garments designed for refined, working women. She is interested in fabric development and creating technical textiles. Sander resigned from the label in 2014, and Rodolfo Paglialunga is currently the creative director.
Jil Sander
+ Wrote for McCall’s and Constanze magazine, editor of Petra Magazine. + Founded boutique in Hamburg in 1967 + Prada buys stake in brand in 1999 + Raf Simons was creative director from 20032012. + Currently owns a fashion consulting business.
looks & silhouettes
Spring/Summer 2013
Autumn/Winter 2012
Spring/Summer 2014
Autumn/Winter 2013
+ Sander is known for her refined and stylish workwear. She utilises a neutral colour palette to create minimalist designs. The designer has cited Bauhaus design is a large inspiration in her work, with themes of proportion and symmetry. + Sander has been called “the queen of clean,� creating garments that are minimal in detail, yet still speak volumes through structure and shape.
advertisements
Spring/Summer 1996 campaign
Autumn/Winter 2013 campaign
+ The label is regarded for its distinct advertisements. Sander’s campaigns from the late 90’s/early 00’s are still circulating online as timeless ads. The designer used model Guinevere Van Seenus as her muse for several campaigns. + The ads, like the clothes, are minimal, with barely a prop in sight. She uses solely the model to create composition, like a shoulder to create a curve, or the arms to create a diagonal across the image.
Spring/Summer 1996 campaign
details & accessories
Spring/Summer 2010
Autumn/Winter 2012
Spring/Summer 2014
+ Sander avoids excessive accessories and details as to not distract from the construction of the garment. + Hair is often pulled into a clean ponytail, and makeup is usually a clean and natural face. + The accessory most often utilised by Sander is a sleek leather bag neatly tucked under the arm, perfect for Sander’s target customer of working women.