GEORGIA TO SEE / Summer Issue N1

EDITORIAL

On Cover TAKO NATSVLISHVILI Model: Photo: GREGORY REGINI

KETA LOMIDZE, BAKHVA BREGVADZE Project authors:

This project is carried out with the support of the Georgian National Tourism Administration Editor-in-Chief:

NESTAN NENE KVINIKADZE

Deputy Editor:

NINO GVALIA

Editor: KATIE DAVIES ANA BOKO

Advertisement Design:

NATA KIPIANI

Text

IRMA KAKHURASHVILI GIORGI MAISURADZE GIORGI KEKELIDZE VAKHO BABUNASHVILI NINO GVALIA

PUBLISHER:

redaqcia N3

Director: TAMAR SAMUKASHVILI TEA KOLOTAURI TEKLA TUTBERIDZE SALOME SHARVADZE ELENE KORIDZE LIKA MESARKISHVILI

2

GREGORY REGINI

Photo

Magazine Design:

GIORGI DADIANI IRA KURMAEVA

GOGA CHANADIRI LIG STUDIO

CONTENTS

for visitors and tourists

Tbilisi’s Essential Venues s

Petre Otskheli

W H AT TO SEE IN GEORGIA’S CAPITAL

TAKO NATSVLISHVILI Stunning Georgian Model CAPTIVATES THE WORLD OF FASHION Dry Bridge market a dim charm of the past

The

Tbilisi’s Sulphur Odor Soviet-Modernist

T b i l i s i

Mountainous

Adjara

Tusheti a blend of real and surreal Must-sees in upper Svaneti UNPREDICTABLE SVANETI ABOVE THE CLOUDS

3

TBILISI

for visitors and tourists Every city lives by its own individual rhythm. The doors of most public workplaces open at 09.00 am and urban noise quits after midnight in Tbilisi, after which time public transport also sleeps and people can only travel by taxi.

Georgians are fond of loud debates around politics and more active debates often continue on Facebook.

If you are invited to the bosom of one of Tbilisi’s families, be ready for a long-lasting party.

The most distinctive districts are located in Tbilisi’s southern part, around Freedom Square. These mustsees - with narrow blind alleys and

words

3

nice views, – belong to the Old town.

Georgians greet each other with a kiss and usually use the words: rogora khar? (how are you?) It’s also perfectly acceptable to express your positive attitude just by shaking hands.

The population of Tbilisi increased when many displaced people moved here as a result of armed conflicts in the 1990s. Consequently, unemployment and lack of stable work are big problems for Georgia’s capital.

If you want to ask something in the street, it is better to address a young person - it is more likely he will understand your question. Middle-aged people would be also helpful, but they rarely speak English.

TRY TO KEEP THESE THREE WORDS IN MIND: •

“GAMARJOBA” (HELLO),

•

“MADLOBA” (THANK YOU) AND

•

“NAKHVAMDIS” (GOOD-BYE).

Georgians will be very pleased to hear these words.

Georgia is the cradle of wine, with more than 500 grape varieties. Wine is more honored here than beer or vodka. It is a great sign of respect for a person if someone offers a toast to him with a glass of wine.

Despite Georgia being the cradle of wine; it is illegal for Georgian society to drink wine, vodka, or any other alcoholic beverage from bottles in the street.

TRAVELING BY TAXI

The fastest over ground transport in Tbilisi is pretty common here. A cab can be taken/called up easily everywhere. If you grab a taxi in the street, it is better to negotiate the price with the driver beforehand as foreign tourists sometimes get told double the real price.

Taxis are not expensive here. For example: 2 GEL is the acceptable price to ride from Freedom Square to Metechi Bridge by cab.

4

WATCH OUT FOR YOUR BAGS AND CAMERAS. DON’T LEAVE THEM UNATTENDED. Watch out for your wallets and documents, especially in crowded places. Keep them in inner and fully zipped pockets. Only carry around as much money as you need for that day, no more. Leave valuables that you aren’t going to use on the day in the hotel safe.

There are various money exchange points in Georgia’s capital, but when you have to exchange a large amount of money, it is safer to do so in a bank.

There are several police-stations in each district. Still, avoid walking alone in the dark. In an emergency situation call 112 from a city or cell phone.

Despite the rapidly increasing number of cyclists, there are no special bike-lanes for bicycles and drivers tend to be dispassionate to cyclists.

THERE ARE MANY ORTHODOX CHRISTIAN CHURCHES IN GEORGIA. MEN SHOULD ENTER WITHOUT HATS AND WOMEN SHOULD COVER THEIR HAIR AND NOT WEAR TOO OPEN CLOTHING.

Traffic is more intense from around 5.00 pm to 7 pm in Tbilisi. It is common to give up your seat to little children and elderly people in public transport.

There are electronic bus timetables at all bus-stops, which show the exact time of a bus arrival in Georgian and English.

Tickets should be bought on boarding a bus and cost 50 Tetri. In minibuses passengers pay only before getting out.

TBILISI MINIBUSES (so-called marshutka) are yellow and a passenger can stop one whenever he wants, excluding Freedom Square, and Rustaveli and Chavchavadze avenues where they can only be stopped at bus-stops. Price - 80 Tetri, in some districts – 40 Tetri.

Minibuses are often busy and some passengers travel standing. Even if the minibus is full, a driver will still likely stop for you if you wave your hand. Then it is up to you whether you want to squeeze in or not.

The Tbilisi Metro has 21 stations and one transfer line from Station Square to Saburtalo line. The Metro is open from 6.00 am to 12.00 pm. You should purchase special plastic cards for traveling by underground.

These cards are on sale at station kiosks and cost 2 GEL whilst journeys themselves – 50 Tetri.

5

TAP WATER IS DRINKABLE. Famous Georgian mineral waters are on sale in every market or corner shop.

GARBAGE - (except construction garbage) is not classified in Tbilisi and is thrown together in bins.

At restaurants you can taste the pearls of Georgian cuisine - khachapuri (cheese bread) and khinkali (dumplings), both of which should be eaten by hand without forks.

It is prohibited to set up a tent in PARKS, GARDENS and STREETS in Tbilisi. Nobody will force you to pay a fine, but you will definitely attract the attention of the police.

The day before of your business meeting try to avoid Georgian drinks, especially the red (‘black’) wine and vodka (“Chacha”).

You will be bound to end up with an unpleasant hangover.

Tbilisi is not included on the list of expensive cities. A minimum monthly income is around 200 GEL. Lots of Georgians, especially women, work in foreign countries in order to provide for their families. Many citizens have a contact in villages in order to buy natural and organic food.

Natural and organic food – cheese, vegetables, meat and Georgian sweets - can be purchased at the Agrarian market near “Station square” metro-station. For safety, avoid outside traders and stand-alone kiosks.

6

Tbilisi’s nightlife is not very lively. But clubbing-connoisseurs and culture-vultures can visit trendy and cozy café-restaurants, modern night clubs and enjoy live music performances in the Old town - at Bambis Rigi, Shardeni, Erekle II and Leselidze streets.

Despite Georgia being located on the Black Sea coast; there are only two ports – in Poti and Batumi. Tourists rarely have a chance to travel by maritime traffic there.

There are various hostels, guest-houses and chic hotels in the central and historical districts in Georgia’s capital. In order to get information about this and other issues, you can head to the information center located in Pushkin Garden on Freedom Square.

Ancient buildings make a contrasting blend with Soviet architecture in Tbilisi.

Tbilisi is quite hot in the summer – temperatures may sometimes reach even 40 degrees in August. May is famous for regular downpours whereas January is often a dry month.

Tbilisi is the only city in the Caucasus where a Mosque, a Synagogue and Catholic and Orthodox Christian churches are located together in one district. Tbilisi’s population is multiethnic; consisting of Georgians, Armenians, Jews, Azeris and Greeks.

Georgia is famous for its hospitality but, as they are rather emotional, try to avoid loud arguments with them.

Tbilisi’s Essential Venues s Tbilisi Museums

Elene Akhvlediani House Museum ADDRESS: 12 L. Kiacheli St.; TEL: +995 (32) 299 74 12 WORKING HOURS: every day except Sunday and Monday - 10.00 - 18.00 TICKET PRICE: Free.

The house-museum of this famous Georgian painter of the XX century was established in 1976. Elene Akhvlediani studied in France and Italy for years and, after returning to Georgia, her house became a kind of art salon, often hosting poetry evenings and concerts. Eminent musicians such as S. Richter and H. Neihaus also played there. The artist collected more than 4000 paintings during her life, which are on display in the house-museum. One can also find a variety of photos and documentary information there.

Folk and Applied Arts Museum ADDRESS: 28 Sh. Dadiani St.; TEL: +995 (32) 299 97 22; +995 (32) 299 61 52.

WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday - 11.00 - 18.00 TICKET PRICE: Adults - 2.00-3.00 Gel, children - 1.00 Gel. You can view works of Georgian and Caucasian masters of gold and silver dating back to the XIX-XX centuries and a collection of Caucasian carpets, graphics, and paintings of primitive painters.

Tbilisi Open Air Museum of Ethnography ADDRESS: 1 Kus Tba Highway.; TEL: +995 (32) 272 90 46 WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday - 10:00 - 18:00 TICKET PRICE: Adults - 1.50 Gel (at temporary exhibitions - 3.00 Gel), children - 1.00 Gel, students 1.00 Gel. Guided tour - 10.00 Gel. The Open Air Museum is located in Tbilisi, Vake district, to the west of “Turtle Lake” and is spread out over 65 hectares of land. The Museum features objects of traditional art and architecture from different parts of Georgia. It was founded in 1966 by George Chitaia, a famous Georgian ethnographer and academician. This is one of the most unique museums in Georgia, where you can explore architecture and traditions of Georgian regions and also relax in a wonderful recreation zone.

Iakob Nikoladze House Museum ADDRESS: 6 Rodeni St. WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday - 10.00 - 17.00 TICKET PRICE: Free.

The house-museum of a prominent Georgian realistic sculptor and one of the co-founders of the Georgian art school.

7

Lado Gudiashvili Exhibition Hall ADDRESS: 11 L. Gudiashvili St.; TEL: (+995 32) 293 23 05 WORKING HOURS: every day, except Mondays and official holidays 11:00 - 18:30.

TICKET PRICE: Adults - 5 GEL; Youth from 6-18 - 3 GEL; Students and pensioners (with ID) - 3 GEL; Admission is free for orphan groups (with proof of status) and for children under 6.

Upon the initiative of Lado Gudiasvili’s family, a part of the former living space of the artist has been kept as an exhibition hall since 2011. The three-leveled, elegant exhibition space of Lado Gudiashvili Exhibition Hall is officially open to the public.

In addition to the artist’s permanent exhibitions, the Exhibition Hall also holds temporary showings, lectures and seminars covering all aspects of contemporary art. The main profile of the Exhibition Hall is to provide a permanent platform for visitors to view Gudiashvili’s works by providing temporary exhibitions of his affluent heritage. Lado Gudiashvili (1896-1980) was one of the most prominent Georgian artists of the 20th century. He graduated from the Tbilisi School of Fine Arts in 1914. In 1919 he moved to Paris to study at Ronson’s “Free Academy” (1919-1926).

The painter was also an active member of Paris’ vibrant art scene.

Literature-Memorial Museum of Ilia Chavchavadze ADDRESS: 7 I. Javakhishvili St. WORKING HOURS: every day except Sunday and Monday - 10.00 - 17.00 TICKET PRICE: Free.

Ilia Chavchavadze (1837 – 1907) was a Georgian writer, poet, journalist and lawyer who spearheaded the revival of the Georgian National Movement in the late 19th century during the Russian rule of Georgia. Today, he is widely regarded as one of the founding fathers of modern Georgia. In 1987 he was canonized as Saint Ilia the Righteous by the Georgian Orthodox Church.

Mirza Fatali Akhundov Azerbaijani Culture Museum ADDRESS: 17 Gorgasali St.; Tel: +995 (32) 272 15 71 WORKING HOURS: every day except Sunday and Monday - 10.00 - 17.00 TICKET PRICE: Free.

Mirza Fatali Mammad Taghi oglu Akhundov was a celebrated Azerbaijani author, playwright, philosopher, and founder of modern literary criticism.

Money Museum ADDRESS: 3/5 Leonidze St.; TEL: +995 (32) 240 64 05 WORKING HOURS: every day except weekends - 10:00 - 16:00 TICKET PRICE: Adult - 0.50 Gel, children - 0.10 Gel, students - 0.20. Guided tour - free.

The museum was established by the National Bank of Georgia and offers you an interesting journey into the centuries-old history of money circulation in Georgia, from the 6th century B.C. up to the present, and also shows samples of foreign currency from different countries of the world. The exhibition starts by introducing a high nominal value tetra drachma of the ancient Colchian money, the so-called Kolkhuri Tetri. It is also possible to purchase replicas of old historical Georgian coins, modern Georgian jubilee and collection coins, and banknotes, books, brochures and CDs in the lobby of the Museum.

8

Shalva Amiranashvili Museum of Fine Arts ADDRESS: 1 L. Gudiashvili St.; TEL: +995 (32) 299 99 09 WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday - 10:00 - 18:00 TICKET PRICE: Adult - 1.5 Gel (at temporary exhibitions - 3 Gel) , children - 1.00 Gel, students - 1.00 Gel. Guided tour - 10.00 Gel. The Shalva Amiranashvili Museum of Fine Arts was established in Tbilisi in 1920 as the National Arts Gallery of Georgia. The Museum houses the best-known samples of Georgian artwork. Various collections of the Museum preserve approximately sixty thousand objects. The Museum is distinguished for its Georgian goldsmithry pieces dating back to the VIII-XIX centuries. The most significant exhibits are the icon of the Zarzma Monastery, the Chalice of Bedia, Anchistkhati and Khakhuli Triptychs and Processional Liturgical Crosses. Unique are the exhibits of cut-enamel, jewelry and art textiles from the VIII-XV cc. The Museum stores the works of famous Georgian painters Niko Pirosmanishvili, Lado Gudiashvili, Elene Akvlediani, David Kakabadze, and others. The Museum also hosts collections of Russian, Western Europe and Oriental artworks.

Simon Janashia State National Museum of Georgia ADDRESS: 3 Rustaveli Ave.; TEL: +995 (32) 299 80 22 WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday 11:00 - 18:00 TICKET PRICE: Adult - 1.5 Gel (at temporary exhibitions - 3 Gel) , children - 1.00 Gel, students - 1.00 Gel. Guided tour - 10.00 Gel The Museum operates as a scientific-educational institution that preserves and exhibits a unique collection of natural and human history. The collections of the S. Janashia Museum cover the history of the country, starting from animal remains dated back to 40 million years. One of the most amazing artifacts at the museum is the prehistoric human remains found in Dmanisi. These remains date back to 1.8 million years and are the oldest sign of human existence outside of Africa. This discovery changed the whole theory of human evolution. One of the most important collections of the Museum is the Collection of Treasures that contains a large number of unique objects from different historical periods: from the late III millennium BC through the XIX century AD. The collection features gold and silver artifacts and jewelry from the pre-Christian period from different regions of Georgia.

State Silk Museum ADDRESS: 6 Tsabadze Str.; TEL: +995 (32) 234 09 67; +995 (32) 234 09 63 WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday 11:00 - 17:00 TICKET PRICE: adults - 3 Gel, schoolchildren and graduate students - 1 Gel, Group visitors (5 and more persons) - 2 Gel, Free of charge: children under 6 years, ICOM members and museum employees, researchers and graduates for research purposes, I and II category disabled persons, IDPs and socially vulnerable persons (with valid identification) The State Silk Museum is one of the world’s oldest silk museums that aims to promote the understanding and appreciation of silk, its production and use through different displays and educational programs.

9

Tbilisi Museum of History (Karvasla) ADDRESS: 8 Sioni Str. Tel: +995 (32) 292-32-27 WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday 11:00 - 17:00 TICKET PRICE: Adult - 1.50 Gel, children - 1.00 Gel, students - 1.00 Gel. Guided tour - 10.00 Gel. A truly interesting place to learn about Tbilisi and discover the hidden sides of the city. It presents archeological, ethnological, archival materials, as well as national and applied arts and a rich photo-collection.

Zurab Tsereteli Museum of Modern Art ADDRESS: 27 Rustaveli Ave., Tel: +995 (32) 214-84-11 WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday 10:00 - 18:00 TICKET PRICE: Free.

A modern and spacious private museum dedicated to the famous Georgian sculptor and artist Zurab Tsereteli.

Museum of Soviet Occupation ADDRESS: 3 Rustaveli Ave. WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday - 10:00 - 18:00 TICKET PRICE: Adult - 1.50 Gel, children - 1.00 Gel, students - 1.00 Gel. Guided tour - 10.00 Gel. The museum provides visitors with information about Georgia in times of the Soviet occupation. The collection on show features photos, documents and assorted information including a list of people executed in that period.

Vakhtang Chabukiani Museum ADDRESS: 83/23 Aghmashenebeli Ave. WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday and Sunday - 11.00 - 17.00 TICKET PRICE: Free.

Vakhtang Chabukiani (1910 - 1992) was a distinguished Georgian ballet dancer, choreographer and teacher. Considered as one of the most influential male ballet dancers, he created the majority of the male choreography for many famous ballets, including: Le Corsaire and La Bayadère.

10

Tbilisi Theatre/ Concert Halls Royal District Theatre ADDRESS: 10 G. Abesadze St., TEL:+995 (32) 99 61 71

Tbilisi State Marionette Theatre ADDRESS: 26 Shavteli St.; TEL: +995 (32) 298 65 90

Tbilisi Z.Paliashvili Opera and Ballet State Theatre ADDRESS: 25 Rustaveli Ave.; TEL: +995(32)214 32 03

Tbilisi Concert Hall ADDRESS: 1 Melikishvili St.; TEL: +995 (32) 299 05 99

V.Sarajishvili State Conservatoire ADDRESS: 8-10 Griboedov St.; TEL: +995 (32) 299 91 44

Sh. Rustaveli State Dramatic Theatre ADDRESS: 17 Rustaveli Ave.; TEL: +995 (32) 272 68 68

Fingers Theatre ADDRESS: 8 Marjanishvili St.; TEL: +995 (32) 295 35 82

Kakha Bakuradze Movement Theatre ADDRESS: 182 Agmashenebeli Ave.; TEL: +995 (599) 56 87 57

Kote Marjanishvili State Acedemic Theatre ADDRESS: 8 Marjanishvili St.; TEL: +995 (32) 295 40 01

Music And Drama State Theatre ADDRESS: 182 Aghmashenebeli Ave.; TEL: +995 (32) 234 80 90; +995 (32) 234 79 59

Nabadi - Georgian Folklore Theatre ADDRESS: 19 Rustaveli Ave.; TEL: +995 (32) 298 99 91

A. Griboedov Russian State Drama Theatre ADDRESS: 2 Rustaveli Ave.; TEL: +995 (32) 293 58 11; +995 (32) 293 18 40 11

Cinemas Amirani ADDRESS: 36 Kostava St.; TEL: +995 (32) 299 99 55

Rustaveli ADDRESS: 5 Rustaveli Ave.; TEL: +995 (32) 255 50 00; +995 (32) 292 03 57

Sakartvelo ADDRESS:2/9 Guramishvili Ave.; TEL: +995 (32) 269 66 47; +995 (32) 269 66 51

Tbilisi Galleries Artarea Gallery ADDRESS: 10 Dodo Abashidze St.

Art Gallery Line ADDRESS: 7 Bambis Rigi; 44 K. Abkhazi St.; Airport, “primeclass” CIP lounges TEL: +995 (32) 250 85 80; +995 (599) 50 07 45

Gallery Container ADDRESS: 10G Radiani St. TEL: +995 (599) 01 38 38

Gallery Cameo ADDRESS: 11 Rkinis Rigi (near Metekhi Bridge)

Gallery Vanda ADDRESS: 14 Chonkadze St. TEL: +995 (32) 293 42 86

Artist ADDRESS: 69 Barnovi St. TEL: +995 (32) 229 43 31; +995 (599) 57 78 72

Baia Gallery ADDRESS: 10 Shardeni St. TEL: +995 (32) 275 45 10; +995 (599) 50 53 02

Gallery Tevdore ADDRESS: 6 Erekle II St. TEL: +995 (32) 298 98 56 12

Tbilisi Nightlife Mtkvarze ADDRESS: 2 Agladze St., TEL: 599 19 33 44 www.facebook.com/page.mtkvarze

The Night Club Mtkvarze – which means “on the river Mtkvari”, is located in the building of a former fish restaurant, quite famous in the town during the 1950s. Within two months after opening it won Best Venue at the Georgian electronic music awards. The best DJs in the city perform here every weekend.

Didi Gallery Club ADDRESS: 36 Kostava St., TEL: 593 16 70 57 www.facebook.com/pages/Didi-Gallery Tbilisi’s popular venue to chill out in a pleasant atmosphere.

Warenhouse (Rike) Club ADDRESS: Noe Jordania Bank (Rike, Old Tbilisi), TEL: 557 20 40 47 www.facebook.com/bassiani Located in Rike Park, Warehouse is a two storied venue with a capacity for 1200 guests.

With its concrete interior and superior location, it attracts local visitors as well as tourists and is also one of the most praised stages for foreign artists and DJs.

Underwheel Club-restaurant ADDRESS: Mtatsminda Park, under “Giant Wheel”, TEL: +995 32 249 23 23 www.facebook.com/Club.Underwheel Enjoy Tbilisi’s amazing view in an atmosphere of good music and delicious cuisine.

Night Office Club ADDRESS: Right Embankment of the River Mtkvari, Baratashvili Bridge, TEL: +995 32 292 3017 A place where except music, one can catch a glimpse of city views from the river Mtkvari.

Boogie Woogie ADDRESS: 13 Betlemi St., TEL: +995 577 940 117 A pre-club bar with tasty cocktails, pleasant music and cozy interior design. DJs play here on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Disco-oriented clubbers can visit the club on Fridays, while on Saturdays one can enjoy Electronic music.

Cafe-Gallery ADDRESS: 48, Rustaveli Ave., TEL: +995 32 995 747 Cafe-Gallery is multifunctional space.It offers day and night activities.Such as:daytime quiet cafe with delicious cuisine,best pizza in Tbilisi,cosi garden,free wi-fi,art exibitions and works as night club every weekend.

13

WHAT TO SEE IN GEORGIA’S CAPITAL Recommendations from Tbilisi Residents TEXT: IRMA KAKHURASHVILI

Vera Park And The Chess Palace

NINI PALAVANDISHVILI “Geo Air” – curator :

A little oasis in the centre of Tbilisi centre. There is a building of very interesting architecture near the church in the park along with the Chess Palace, is a distinguished building from an architectural perspective. It recently had its original look changed and now seems somewhat alienated.

Betlemi District

Soundless, quiet, authentic and preserved: Tbilisi’s old district, has kept its distinctive look in the rehabilitation process thanks to the participation of local residents.

16

EXPO GEORGIA

The Soviet modernist complex.

In the mess of Didube district one find a cozy and green oasis with a wonderful green house.

Parallel Streets Of Vorontsovi & Aghmashenebli (Plekhanov) Very nice places for strolling and capturing the sights with a camera.

Tbilisi Mosaics

You can find out about the artistic value of these mosaics through the publication/postcards brought together as a complete set titled: “Tbilisi’s lost heroes. Mosaics of Soviet times.” It includes monumental-decorative mosaics in Tbilisi’s public spaces over the past 70-80 years, many of which are now at the point of disappearing. The book is available in most bookstores.

5

Nato Ingorokva (writer) :

National Manuscript Centre The manuscripts kept here are the best story-tellers of our treasure, preserved to the present day.

Revaz Gabriadze Puppet Theatre

An unusual performance in an unusual theatre.

This is a place where a puppet play is staged just for adults and one man is the playwright, director, artist and musical director all at the same time

18

Any Bookstore

Book consultants will provide you with information about recently published works, which has been written by Georgian writers and modern literature novelties translated into Georgian.

ies sit ate r e iv cre n Unill can ducatio l ra w e ltus good cellent u c ’ ri n ex Ag e ma n an try.

nd ow on to gai e coun a h reeample r youthave th F o e x le Th od e ons f g to o ti in A g condi need l t al hou wit

Georgian CloisonnĂŠ Enamel Studio You can make a remarkable journey into Georgian enamel history and check out how these beautiful items of jewelry are made.

19

GURAM TSIBAKHASHVILI (photographer) : ery met e C ia st Kuk f the olde ilisi;

o in Tb One ries re t e cem of diffe d n x a mi ltures a y u c er v t en ies. A territory r o t s g hi estin stic inter the styli from ective p pers

Markets near Station Square

Classical artifacts of the 1990s: trade centers, with chaotic and unsystematic locations and the territory of spontaneous sale and purchase!

Abanotubani

A distinguished part of the historic city, which has preserved ancient traditions of bathing in sulphur waters to the present day.

20

Upper side of Avlabari district

A good display of Tbilisi’s multicultural life and an example how populations of different nationalities can peacefully live next to each other. From this perspective, so-called Italian yards (little yards with old houses, sometimes with neighbors sharing kitchens, bathrooms and balconies) are a good example of it.

“112” Building

The 112 Georgia Emergency and Operative Response Center, located near the cross-roads of Vashlijvari and Nutsubidze districts, is one of the highest buildings in Tbilisi, with a fantastic view over the city.

21

Lasha Bakradze (historian, director of the Literature Museum) : Baths Part of the history of the city - the legend of its foundation starts from here.

The sulphur waters at the baths are very good for the health.

Waterfall in Legvtakhevi

It is very rare for cities to have a natural waterfall.

Located in one of the historical - geographical districts of Old Tbilisi – Abanotubani, Tsavkisistskali flows directly from the rocks above.

22

Wine cellar on Leselidze Street (K. Aphkhazi Str.) 窶天isitors to Tbilisi should definitely experience the taste of Georgian wine, as traditions of winemaking in Georgia date back to ancient times.

ict u r t s di s yo

i a em utiful most l t Be bea the the

m in e nd se et mor her, a e is fro urch. a c ir s g hig tiv i ch Sta view and spec lem r et er The highe lar p ear B go ctacu are n spe e squ l litt

Funicular tram

The views from these trams always make a strong impression on tram-riders!

23

Stunning Georgian Model CAPTIVATES THE WORLD OF FASHION 28

TAKO NATSVLISHVILI TEXT: NINO GVALIA 16-YEAR-OLD GEORGIAN MODEL, TAKO NATSVLISHVILI, USED TO PLAY TENNIS AND WANTED TO BECOME A TENNIS-PLAYER IN HER YOUNGER DAYS, BUT THE FLOW OF LIFE TOOK HER IN A TOTALLY DIFFERENT DIRECTION: TO THE GLAMOROUS WORLD OF FASHION. TAKO’S MOTHER NINO TSKITISHVILI, A FORMER MODEL AND A FOUNDER OF THE “LOOK MODELS” MODEL AGENCY IN GEORGIA, INSPIRED HER DAUGHTER TO CHOOSE A MODELING CAREER AND, AT PRESENT, STUNNING TAKO NATSVLISHVILI IS THE FIRST EVER GEORGIAN FASHION MODEL TO WORK FOR LOUIS VUITTON, DOLCE & GABBANA, CHRISTIAN DIOR, CALVIN KLEIN AND MANY OTHERS. SHE ALSO APPEARED AT THE VERSACE FASHION SHOW IN PARIS THIS YEAR. PHOTO SESSIONS, CASTINGS, WALKING THE WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS CATWALKS AND A CELEBRITY ENTOURAGE HAVE BECOME THE ESSENTIAL ELEMENTS AND A ROUTINE FOR THE YOUNG MODEL. TAKO RECENTLY VISITED HER HOME TOWN TBILISI FOR COUPLE OF DAYS IN ORDER TO TAKE SCHOOL GRADUATION EXAMS. SHE FOUND TIME, HOWEVER, TO TALK TO US AT GEORGIA TO SEE.

•

TELL US ABOUT YOUR CAREER, HOW DID YOU GET INTO MODELING?

My mother has the “Look Models” model agency in Tbilisi and I started with her. One day the Next Model Management group visited the agency - I thought they would choose blond girls but they liked me and told my mother that they wanted to meet my parents. It was really very funny! That’s how it all started and I joined Next Model Management. First I went to Hong Kong and worked very hard there, a very important experience for me which later helped in Europe.

•

WHAT DO YOU ENJOY MOST ABOUT YOUR PROFESSION AND HOW DO YOU SEE WORKING WITH WORLD FAMOUS DESIGNERS?

To me, the most challenging part of working in the fashion industry is to break into it, travel a lot and communicate with interesting and positive people. I love what I do and it makes me believe in myself. To tell the truth, I prefer walking catwalks to photo shoots. I know it’s a big responsibility to work for such famous brands and I was very nervous at the beginning, but people around me and my agency were always very helpful. Before arriving in Paris, I imagined everything being quite different, but I soon realized that it’s not difficult to live alone. My mother is also helping me from Georgia. Of course, I miss home, my family and friends, but I enjoy living in Paris and being there is a brilliant chance for me to gain skills and professional experience.

•

YOUR FAVORITE FASHION DESIGNERS?

I absolutely love Giorgio Armani – he is always so kind to me. I love chic Christian Dior too and Alexander McQueen is also one of my favorites.

29

30

•

HOW WOULD YOU DEFINE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE?

It depends on my mood. I can’t say that I wear only brands- I like casual clothing too. When going out, I often put on something by Alexander McQueen.

•

YOU TRAVEL A LOT. WHICH HAS BEEN THE MOST MEMORABLE PLACE IN YOUR CAREER SO FAR?

Of course Paris, I love that city and everything is beautiful there and, besides, I did my first couture in Paris.

•

HOW DO YOU STAY IN SHAPE?

I walk a lot in Paris, sometimes even several kilometers a day… So, it really helps. I also try to eat low-fat food and lots of vegetables. But when I come back to Georgia, everything turns upside down…

•

WHAT IS THE BEST ADVICE YOU HAVE EVER BEEN GIVEN?

In the beginning I was very nervous and before walking catwalks, one of my colleagues and friends advised me to be confident and repeat “Yes” three times in my heart- and it really worked. Thanks to this magic “yes, yes, yes,” my fears disappeared.

•

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO THOSE ASPIRING GIRLS DREAMING OF BECOMING MODELS?

Try to be confident, motivated and flexible, don’t stress, work hard, and of course, believe in yourself and believe that you can achieve what you dream of.

•

YOU ARE GRADUATING SCHOOL THIS YEAR, SO WHAT ABOUT YOUR FUTURE PLANS? WHERE ARE YOU GOING TO CONTINUE YOUR STUDIES?

I’m not going to enter university for a couple of years and I plan to take my modeling career further. So, after several years I’m thinking of studying business somewhere in Europe and I hope it will be related to the fashion industry sphere as well.

So, let’s see…

31

32

33

Dry Bridge market a dim charm of the past

Tbilisi is a small city where trendy hotels neighbor little hostels and famous shopping brands are located next to “second hand” vintage-production shops. It is a town of chic restaurants with European menus and noisy beer-houses. In modern Tbilisi one can come across multi-storey blocks as well as ancient balconied houses. But the charisma of soviet-era Tbilisi may be best experienced at the flea market - “Dry Bridge” bazaar, where a visitor to Georgia’s capital can peruse an interesting selection of antique items, soviet artifacts, jewelry, second-hand privately owned possessions and many other things.

34

You can reach the Dry Bridge bazaar from Vorontsov Bridge or Kolmeurneoba square, passing along Khidi Street.

THIS IS AN OPEN-AIR BAZAAR WHERE EVERYTHING IS LAID OUT ON THE GROUND INSTEAD OF COUNTERS, AND SHELVES ARE REPLACED BY TREE BRANCHES. THIS DISTINCTIVE PLACE IS A KIND OF MUSEUM EXPOSITION WITH BARGAINING FUNCTIONS AND A BELOVED VENUE FOR CURIOUS PHOTOGRAPHERS, PEDESTRIAN TOURISTS, WHIMSICAL COLLECTORS, AND SKILLFUL HANDICRAFTSMEN.

It is perhaps one of many rare places in Tbilisi tightly connected with the dim nostalgia of the soviet past. You can purchase there antique vessels or old-fashioned domestic items, toys, breastplates, soviet uniforms, ancient photo-cameras, accessories, Georgian rugs or original carpets, equipment for hunters and alpinists, gramophone plates, different musical equipment and a variety of other stuff. Prices are generally low here, but still remember to haggle, as sellers may inflate those prices especially for tourists. Sellers gather at around 9.00 am at the Dry Bridge bazaar and trade there until late evening.

There is also an exhibition-sale near the bazaar in the garden located adjacent to the bridge along the central road. This display features paintings and graphics by Georgian artists - mostly created on Georgian motives and Tbilisi landscapes and clay items with national ornaments, thick felt works, silver vessels and daggers.

The Dry Bridge bazaar is especially alive on weekends and it welcomes its guests in every season and every weather.

A well-organized recreation zone – Dedaena Park -is located next to the bazaar. This place used to be an epicenter for meetings of demonstrators in soviet times. The park is also a kind of Mecca for sale and purchase brokers. There is a huge bronze monument

“Dedaena� (mother tongue) nearby, dating back to the beginning of the 1980s. This part of the territory ends with the modern mushroom-shaped building of the Justice House. The inner side of the park is situated near the river Mtkvari, a beloved place for picnickers and fishermen.

One can catch a glimpse of an amazing view of Tbilisi from the Voronstov arched Bridge which leads to Aghmashenebeli Avenue.

Voronstov Bridge was built two centuries ago and thanks to it, Chughureti district, Kukia and the German settlement were connected with the Old Town.

If you are an art-lover and especially interested in antiquary and unique works by artists of the past centuries, you should visit Tsinamdzgvrishvili Street, parallel to Aghmashenebeli Avenue, where you will come across cellar-type and visually simple shops.

Some of these shops are real storehouses of precious items. You can also get free consultations from antiquary specialists there.

You will easily recognize these shops by the antique furnishings on their porches.

35

Tbilisi’s Sulphur Odor TEXT: NINO GVALIA

hile strolling along the cobbled streets of Old Tbilisi, you may smell sulphur becoming more intense and stronger as you draw closer to Abanotubani (bath district) and see a beautiful building with an adorned blue façade and hive-like domes; one of Tbilisi’s most famous landmarks. There are, of course, various must-see places to visit in Georgia’s capital, but if you are looking for some special experiences, welcome to the Tbilisi sulphur baths!

Tbilisi came to life in the 5th century and as legend says, it happened thanks to its thermal waters, when King Vakhtang Gorgasali’s falcon fell into the warm water and boiled there…

What a sad story, but it has a happy end, as the King decided it would be a good location in which to build a city.

Moreover, these antibacterial sulphur waters, with a constant temperature of 38°C to 40°C, were and still remain as a kind 36

of therapy for various illnesses, including skin diseases and arthritis, though people with heart problems are not advised to visit the baths often.

There are several baths in the old part of the city, but it’s perhaps better to focus on the most remarkable ones: The Motley Baths (Chreli Abano) with its wonderful oriental-style mosaic façade and The Royal Baths (Samepo Abano) located under the domes of the square. There are five rooms at The Royal Baths and prices range from 40 to 80 GEL, depending on the size of rooms and number of people. Most of these rooms are decorated in royal blue tiles and have a very calming effect.

Let’s start our explorations in The Motley baths in order to know beforehand what to expect before stepping into that thick cover of sulphur-smelling steam. With a very impressive façade outside, we enter a rather utilitarian interior and at the entrance one has to choose one of two options: a small private room where one or two can take baths together, or the second option - public baths divided according to sex.

So, it’s up to the visitor whether to choose private and cozy atmosphere or to get a more authentic experience (and at almost three times cheaper the price). There are 15 rooms in this bath house and prices range from 17 to 80 GEL, depending on your choice.

The list of prominent bathers who have also enjoyed this unique experience includes Alexandre Dumas and Alexander Pushkin, who afterwards noted: “I have never encountered anything more luxurious than this Tbilisi bath.”

Tips:

The baths, with warm sulphur pools and a very specific smell, are both soothing and refreshing at the same time.

Additionally, the most remarkable thing of this practice

is a massage provided by professional masseurs as you recline on a marble slab. At first sight, you may think that these hard-to-categorize procedures, including beating, rubbing and pouring on of hot sulphur water are not for the light-hearted, but the effect afterwards in most cases is absolutely awesome; tranquil bliss and a feeling that you are not carrying your invisible heavy bag of troubles any more.

PEOPLE WORKING THERE RARELY SPEAK ANY FOREIGN LANGUAGE EXCEPT RUSSIAN, SO IT IS PREFERABLE TO USE AN INTERNATIONAL SIGN/BODY LANGUAGE! DON’T VISIT THE BATHS WITH A HANGOVER! A CUP OF TEA AFTER YOUR SPECIFIC SULPHUR-EXPERIENCE IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

The Soviet-Modernist Tbilisi text: giorgi maisuradze photo: giorgi dadiani

38

Tbilisi’s architectural landscape is multicolored with rocks covered with balconied houses and ancient churches in Ortachala district, buildings of Art Nouveau style in Sololaki, and modern constructions in different locations throughout the city. But today I will introduce you to another side of Tbilisi- the alternative and almost unknown architectural image of soviet modernism.

The soviet modernist buildings are not included in tourist guide books and booklets; even Tbilisi residents are rarely familiar with them. Thus, this low awareness makes this topic extraordinary and particularly interesting.

Everything started in 1955, when Nikita Khrushov, the first secretary of the USSR, passed a resolution about minimizing construction expenses, ultimately meaning that buildings should no more be decorated. As a result, the epoch of Stalinist architecture came

to an end and a new direction – the soviet modernism -replaced it in all republics of the Soviet Union, including Georgia.

There was no longer place for curved wooden balconies, flower ornaments and detailed exteriors in the soviet modernist era, which is more oriented on strict and simple forms. The only decorations are mosaics and bas-reliefs, mostly inspired from space motives. Astronauts, aliens and flying spaceships- “Space War” architecture -demonstrated the Soviet Union as the supreme government, which had sent Yuri Gagarin into space. In order to have deeper insight into soviet modernist architecture, I have chosen four buildings which are of special interest for their architectural importance and impressive design. These constructions are: The former Ministry of Highway Construction, the Celebration Palace of Rites, the VDNKH Exhibition Complex and the Archeology Museum.

The former Ministry of Highway Construction The building which housed the Ministry of Highway Construction is one of the iconic examples of soviet modernism. This unique and innovative project by architect Giorgi Chakhava was accomplished in 1975 and soon became the focus of some significant print media: The New York Times, The Guardian and Domus. A feature that makes Chakhava’s project particularly unique is its synthesis with nature. The Ministry of Highway Construction building was inspired by the Caucasian forest and traditional Georgian architecture. While describing his method, entitled: “Space City,” Chakhava depicts the Caucasian forest as an example

of the harmonic world. The author was impressed by the steep slopes, where trees raise their branches towards the sky, which are connected with the earth by long stems and make free space for other plants. This regularity of nature as an example of the harmonic world inspired Chakhava to project the Ministry of Highway Construction with concrete forms blended with rocks, and floors distanced from the ground and located in the air. This impressive building located at #29a Gagarin Street houses the headquarters of one of the Georgian banks at present, but it is available for outside viewing.

39

40

The palace of rites The Palace of Rites, another building with an interesting design, was built in 1984 and, like the building of Ministry of Highway Construction; it was also influenced by Georgian architecture. The author of this project, Viktor Jorbenadze, was interested in Georgian architecture and even dedicated his work to the Mtskheta trio – the Jvari Monastery, Svetistkhoveli Church and Bebris Tsikhe Fortress. Jorbenadze’s personal interest was reflected in his project for the palace and it is especially well shown in its apses which make up the extent of the building. This project has similarity

with Georgian churches, but conceptually it differs significantly from them. Jorbenadze saw it as a temple of the future, but with dissimilar perspective – the place for wedding ceremonies and nuptials. The Palace of Rites, in conception and design goes far beyond simple soviet modernism and, to my mind, it is one of Tbilisi’s most remarkable architectural landmarks worth seeing.

The building is located at #21 Bochorma Street. It is privately owned at present and can be best viewed from Ortachala Bridge.

41

The vDNKH Exhibition Complex The VDNKH Exhibition Complex was opened in 1961. Pavilions were added at a later date, increasing the number to 11. The exhibition space, designed by architect Levan Mamaladze, is the finest example of soviet modernism. One can see here not only constructions, but also sculptures and mosaics. Here you will find one of the best preserved mosaics in Tbilisi on the wall of the eighth pavilion near the main entrance. The mosaic, inspired with visions of space, puts together a cosmonaut, a worker and

42

a diligent woman against a background of a flying spaceship and sputnik. The same motive continues in the sculpture in front of the seventh pavilion. Apart from mosaics and sculptures, it is also interesting to view the yard, hothouse, arches and architecture of the pavilions. The complex has preserved its original function and often hosts a variety of exhibitions and events. The exhibition complex, located at 118 Tsereteli Avenue, is a recreation zone at the same time, which makes this venue even more attractive.

The Archeology Museum The Tbilisi Archeology museum is one of the most recent buildings of soviet modernist construction in the city. The museum was established in 1988 and offers a selection of monuments found on the territory of Tbilisi. There are more than 10,000 exponents, the most ancient items from this collection being bronze objects found in an old Delisi dwelling, dated as 4,000 years old, which are regarded as the oldest bronze objects in the world. Unfortunately, this museum is currently closed, but its architecture is as significant as its collection. The project by architect Shota Kav-

lashvili is a mastaba-shaped construction with a very interesting bas-relief on the front façade – an alien in a form of an embryo.

The museum is located on the outskirts of Tbilisi, on the hill near the David the builder statue.

Buildings blended with rocks, temples of the future, cosmonauts, flying spaceships and aliens. If you are visiting Tbilisi, I think, you should aim to catch at least a glimpse of the soviet modernist architecture of the city, which will surely make a deep impression on you.

43

Zaza Urushadze: on his Anti-War Manifesto and a New Project TEXT: NINO GVALIA

With his recent feature film and anti-war manifesto Tangerines, a co-production of Estonia and Georgia, Zaza Urushadze the award-winning Georgian director and the new member of the U.S. Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, has for the second time seen his work submitted for the Best Foreign-Language Film at the Academy Awards. Despite Tangerines representing Estonia, Georgians have been proudly supporting the film at the ceremony this year. It did not receive an Oscar award, but participation in this significant event is also a big honor and, in addition, the film was among the five nominated films at the 72nd Golden Globe Awards for the best foreign language film and has other significant awards to its credit, including the prestigious Satellite Award for the Best Foreign Film.

The quiet film with a small cast and simple but lush location tells the story of a rural Abkhazian village, where Estonian farmers settled to tend a tangerine orchard. With the start of hostilities during the 1992-1992 war in Abkhazia, most of the Estonians returned to their homeland. However, two Estonian men, Ivo (Lembit Ulfsak) and Margus (Elmo Nüganen), remain in the village in order to harvest their tangerines. But they get caught in the crossfire between two small bands of warring soldiers. Only two of the fighters survive: Ahmed (Giorgi Nakashidze), a Chechen mercenary on the Abkhazian side, and Niko (Mikheil Meskhi), a Georgian volunteer.

Both are wounded, but the two Estonian farmers take them in and begin to nurse them back to health.

44

WHAT MOTIVATED YOU TO MAKE TANGERINES AND HOW DID YOU COME UP WITH THE STORY OF THE FILM? I believe that there’s a serious lack of tolerance in the modern world, so my first impulse was to draw attention to this issue.

Also, I lost many friends in the Abkhazian war and it impacted me enough to want to make a film about this war. Then, suddenly I learnt about the Estonian settlements in Abkhazia, empty villages with almost nobody – and I quickly realized that I’d come across a very interesting plot for the script. Regarding the shooting process itself, it took place in Guria, in my home region. We faced many difficulties while preparing a shooting area – it was a marshland and we made a road there, built a house, and planted trees. The preparation process took almost five months, but we made the film in 32 shooting days. It should be noted that the local population was very helpful and I want to express my gratitude to them.

CAN YOU TELL US WHAT SYMBOLIC SIGNIFICANCE TANGERINES HAVE IN THE FILM? Abkhazia is the land of tangerines; everybody in Georgia knows that the best tangerines come from there. So, the tangerine is a symbol of peace for me, and I also like its color - as a contrast to the bleakness of war...

THE FILM HAS TOURED AT VARIOUS FILM FESTIVALS, BUT MOST NOTEWORTHY IS CERTAINLY THE OSCARS… PLEASE, SHARE YOUR IMPRESSIONS ABOUT THE ACADEMY AWARDS CEREMONY. It was like a fairy tale and an awesome experience of communicating with brilliant and interesting people who are very simple in relations. Hollywood seems so huge from a distance, but when you are there it’s nowhere near as big and remote any more. I didn’t expect that the film would have such an interesting fate and for sure it was a big challenge for me. .

HOW DID YOU COME TO THE WORLD OF FILM? I was sixteen when I clearly made up my mind that without the world of film, I’d be lost and unhappy.... At that time it was really very difficult to enter the University of Cinema and Theatre in Tbilisi and one had a chance to pass exams only once in five years, so I tried my best and, luckily, I became a student and was mentored by wonderful people and professionals - Lana Ghoghoberidze and Omar Gvasalia.

WHAT INSPIRES YOU TO MAKE FILMS? It may be a little detail, one glimpse, a fleeting impulse… It’s very difficult to describe, as it doesn’t have any logical explanation.

PLEASE, DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONALITY IN SOME WORDS. I’m a very emotional person. People also say that I’m rather exigent while shooting a film. I don’t see myself as a strict person in general, but I can’t make any compromises while making a movie.

Yet when film is done and all this creative buzz is gone we all are good friends.

ARE THERE ANY FILMS, OR FILMMAKERS, WHO HAVE INFLUENCED YOU? Fellini, Pasolini and Bergman are my favorite authors. I like the films of Lars Von Trier and Kieslowski as well. But American comedy “Some like it hot” by Billy Wilder made the most stunning and unforgettable impression on me when I was very young.

SOME WORDS ABOUT YOUR NEXT PROJECT? I live from film to film. Certainly, it’s quite pleasant to travel to various festivals and receive awards, but still, the most appealing thing for me is the shooting process itself. Regarding the new film, I’m very active right now working on a new project, which will be a completely Georgian production. I don’t want to give away any details yet, but I can say that the film echoes the recent 2008 war in Georgia and the main part is performed by Georgian actress Nato Murvanidze.

45

As in many of the world’s countries, people love and dance tango in Georgia, too! The club “Tbilisi Tango” has been actively launching milongas since 2008, frequently participates in international festivals and hosts tango masters.

Argentinean tango is the only dance included on UNESCO’s intangible world cultural heritages list. Tango is an everlasting emotional improvisation which is never performed in the same way even if to similar tunes. As Georgian tango-dancers say, Georgian temperament adds particular emotions and vibes to the Argentinean dance.

With its energetic social feature, tango is not only a way to relax and chill out, but it also gives a brilliant chance to communicate through a bracing language with like-minded people and to make new friends. The most important thing in this dance is to keep body balance and step right!

46

Aside from courses and separate lessons, Tbilisi guests and people interested in learning this dance can take master classes with famous tangueros. Twice a week: on Sunday from 12:00 to 16:00 tango-lovers get together in the cozy café “Linville” (on the corner of Leselidze and Abesadze streets) and on Monday - 20:00-24.00 in the Liberty Theatre café (behind Freedom Square metro-station).

You can find out more about other tango activities on Facebook – Tbilisi Tango. Don’t miss the milongas, held at different locations in a guaranteed pleasant atmosphere.

So, come and enjoy wonderful evenings of the majestic tango!

Winged Painter. 1936

The work is kept in the Georgian State Museum of Theatre, Music, Cinema and Choreography

49

Whites. 1930 50

The work is kept in the Georgian State Museum of Theatre, Music, Cinema and Choreography

The Master Builder. 1931

The work is kept in the Georgian State Museum of Theatre, Music, Cinema and Choreography

51

KHACHAPURI IS GEORGIA! TEXT: VAKHO BABUNASHVILI

If you are fond of traveling, exploring new customs and traditions, meeting bizarre people, tasting good wine and strange and interesting food, Georgia is the right destination for you!

This is a rather distinctive country in many directions, but culinary is one of the strongest expressions of this originality.

If someone decides to characterize courtiers through their most popular dishes on a world culinary map, without a doubt, khachapuri would be a symbol of Georgia. Everyone loves khachapuri: both adults and children, Christians, Jews, or Muslims, vegetarians and meat-eaters …

You can take pleasure from in any season and at any time of day, whether the khachapuri is newly backed or warmed up from the day before.

To evaluate Georgia’s economic situation, economists and financiers have worked out a special index based on Georgia’s important dish khachapuri – a price dynamic of the essential ingredients needed to cook one standard Imeretian khachapuri: the KHACHAPURI INDEX. A Polish friend of mine calls them - “calorie bombs”.

My friends, if you are interested in Georgia and want to take a sampling of gastronomic delights (and not only the daily minimum amount of calories) then, please leave these “calories” and “ bombs” where you want, just relax and take maximum pleasure by tasting khachapuri. You can try standing firm, but the magic word “khachapuri” and its overwhelming accompanying aroma are almost sure to overcome (no matter how

replete you are, you won’t be able to overcome the temptation not to eat at least a piece of it!). While catching a glimpse of the golden surface slightly whitened with flour, and cheese stretching from the slice as you pull it away - almost as if the slice doesn’t want to separate from its parent - I am sure you will obediently bend your head down and take the biggest piece and…. The “calorie bomb” will become an immediate “pleasure bomb” for you!

That is how khachapuri’s magic works.

I would give a little advice, - don’t resist it. You are staying here for just a short while, soon to return home where you can go on with the boring counting of calories. Before you go, just let khachapuri work its magic on you; chill out and enjoy!

This is a Georgian dish and its name shows it well, the word “khachapuri” means curds and bread, but today it consists of cheese baked in dough, meat, vegetables and many other variations. Khachapuri is an ancient dish, still developing today and trying to adapt to modern times. It has great perspectives for the future!

Khachapuri is Georgia!

You are an honored friend for Georgians, especially if you spread the word that you love or at least like khachapuri, but don’t lie, because it’s almost impossible not to come across khachapuri here and you will have to assert your devotion and love towards this dish over and over again!

A CLASSICAL KHACHAPURI IS A CHEESE-FILLED CAKE MADE OF A YEASTED SOFT DOUGH OF WHEAT FLOUR AND NEW COW’S MILK (RICOTTA) CHEESE, WHICH IS BAKED ON A FRYING-PAN OR KETSI (A KIND OF EARTHENWARE FRYING-PAN) WITHOUT FAT. THIS IS THE SO-CALLED “IMERETIAN KHACHAPURI,” WHICH MIGHT BE REGARDED AS AN ETALON OF KHACHAPURI IN GENERAL. THE FILLING MAY ALSO VARY, BUT ONE SHOULDN’T THINK THAT FILLING IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN DOUGH. IT’S LIKE THE PRINCIPLE OF SANDWICHES - IF THE BREAD IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH, IT MAKES NO DIFFERENCE WHAT YOU PUT BETWEEN THE SLICES. DOUGH RECIPES ARE VERSATILE AND DIFFER ACCORDING TO KHACHAPURI TYPE.

52

TRADITIONALLY, KHACHAPURI IS MORE COMMON WITH A CHEESE FILLING IN GEORGIA. There are different types of khachapuri according to region: • • • • • • • •

Imeretian khachapuri – with Imeretian cheese (ricotta) Megrelian khachapuri - with sulguni cheese (mozzarella) AJarian khachapuri – with cheese and an egg Svanetian khachapuri – with cheese, and a green onion Rachvelian (bachuli) khachapuri – with cheese and baked in a quadrangle shape Ossetian (khabizgina) khachapuri – with cheese and boiled potatoes Abkhazian (achma) khachapuri - with boiled dough layers, looks like lasagna Gurulian khachapuri – with cheese and a boiled egg There are other interesting varieties as well, for example, Svanetian – with millet seeds and cheese filling, which was also once seasoned with hemp seeds before the prohibition of marihuana. I won’t go into detail about the varieties of khachapuri, as I hope you will experience this taste on your own in Georgia; I merely wish to draw a picture for you in order to be prepared for that “calorie pleasure bomb.”

However, the Adjarian khachapuri, shaped like a boat is worthy of a separate description. Adjara is a coastal region where Adjarians and Lazians live together. Lazians used to be perfect fishermen and maybe that’s why they gave their khachapuri a boat shape. This roasted “boat” with fatty grated cheese filling is cooked in a firewood oven for fifteen minutes, after which it is taken out and glazed with an egg before being put back in the oven for several minutes - the egg yolk should be half raw. A piece of creamy butter is added to the boat before serving. The eating is also an art as you should pull off the soft crust to dip into the mix of cheese, egg and butter… and once you start it’s very hard to stop! This beautiful khachapuri is a real danger for those calorie-counting homo-sapiens, but a person (if he is not allergic to dairy products)

exploring Georgia should taste it at least once in his lifetime. Such dishes can be found in Turkish cuisine as well, a result of the regional neighborhood.

Thus, Adjarian khachapuri and khachapuri in general, with its all hypostasesy is one of the features of the Georgian distinctiveness.

Adjara is the homeland for Adjarian khachapuri. The vivid blue sea and golden Adjarian khachapuri make a fascinating blend. There are many spots in Batumi famous for good khachapuri, but I tend to point out café “Retro” and its chef Gia, who not only managed to make a chain but also to bring the true “Batumi taste” to Tbilisi in a café with a similar name. The café, with its simple interior, has a particular interesting detail – a glass wall, dividing the bakery and the dining hall, which gives visitors an opportunity to observe the majestic process of khachapuri cooking - a virtuosic interaction of cook and dough.

It is significant that the dishes of this café have preserved their taste and quality for a number of years.

While being in Batumi, don’t forget to drop into café “Retro” at N54/62 Gorgiladze Str. and.10. E. Takaishvili St.

GEORGIA TO SEE

71

SUMMER IN GEORGIA

TEXT: IRMA KAKHURASHVILI

INTRODUCTION It is said that Batumi inhabitants rarely leave Batumi in the summertime so as to be ready to extend a warm welcome to their guests. Batumi city is home to a Christian and Muslim population, living in peace next to each other. Beautiful low houses with stunning facades, where windows open only from the outside, narrow cobbled streets, green parks, a sea port enlivened with fishermen’s voices and comfy café-bars – this is just a short list of things that make this city a very cozy and picturesque place. Rain is a regular guest of the city, but it is no reason to get bored. Batumi and Adjara is a popular destination for many visitors fleeing the capital in the summer.

Port

The history of Batumi port dates back to the times of the Roman Empire. Today, it is able to receive large cargo ships and works as point on sea routes between Europe and Asia. Due to its geo-strategic importance the first oil transportation in the world was provided by Batumi port in 1892 by oil tanker “Murex”. Batumi’s maritime gate, with its modern-equipped five terminals, is still of great importance as the main port for the reworking of the oil of Kazakhstan and Azerbaijan.

BOULEVARD (the seaside park) Batumi Boulevard is located along the coast line. At 7 kilometers long, it is regarded as the longest in the world. The boulevard puts together attractions, cafes and restaurants, an aqua park, a shell-shaped wedding house, souvenir stands, Batumi’s new lighthouse and a dancing fountain.

Chess and backgammon lovers gather on the boulevard in the evening, visitors stroll and take memorable photos near the bamboo, squirrels jump from one branch to another of the trees.

The botanist Resler was the first gardener of this awesome park. The boulevard has unique flora with laurels blooming across 1300 square meters of land. The new boulevard surrounds Lake Ardagani, near to which you will find restaurants with traditional Georgian cuisine, sport complexes and chic hotels: “Sheraton”, “Radisson Blu”, “Hilton” and the historical “Intourist Palace” located at the entrance of the park.

54

DOLPHINARIUM Batumi dolphinarium is located near the 6 May Park. A place full of positive emotions, which attracts both adults and children. The dolphinarium offers its guests a new interactive and spectacular show, including around 30 performances by dolphins: dances, playing with rings and balls, balancing on tails, the unforgettable Foot Push and more. The entertaining show is performed in three languages: Georgian, English and Russian. There are three shows daily, except Monday.

FROM URBAN

HISTORY

The urban development of the city began in the late XIX century at a time when the width of streets was 12 arshines. 1890s Batumi was divided into four police districts: “Azizie” – in city’s north-east, a large trade center, “Akhmedie” in the eastern part of the city – a district with crooked and narrow turnings, where the Turkish market, little shops and coffee taverns were situated. Poor people lived in “Muptie” near the oil factories and in the southern part of Batumi was the European-type settling “Nurie”.

THE PIAZZA

The Piazza is one of the most beautiful places in Batumi, distinctly Italian but in Batumi, when it comes to architecture, it seems anything goes!

The Square is surrounded by the Piazza complex, which includes a hotel, a couple of restaurants, a café and a pub. The architecture is distinguished by mosaics and stained glass art. The Piazza usually hosts concerts of world famous musicians visiting Batumi. Placido Domingo, Chriss Botti, Sting, Michel Legrand, Macy Grey are just a few, who have already performed on Piazza square.

bicycles Bicycles have become a part of Batumi’s urban culture in recent years. It is possible to move around the city by bike without a problem: there are special paths for cycling and places to rent bicycles by the hour.

Post-Office Chimeras and other mythical beings look down from many beautiful buildings in the Old Town. A former post-office is one such monumental building. It was built in the XIX-XX centuries and is located at the corner of the Baratashvili and Abashidze central streets. A clock on the dome of the building is Batumi’s main clock.

A statue of Kolkhi Medea and the dancing fountain grace Europe Square.

This place often hosts large-scale events: open-air concerts and presentations. Nearby is located the oldest pharmacy and a book-store, a famous place where various prominent figures often got together in the XX century.

MUSEUMS In the State Museum named after Khariton Akhvlediani one can view an archeological collection dating back to the XII-X centuries BC, unique archeological material from the 5th century BC, engraved axes, The Gonio treasure – tiles covered with gold from the I – II centuries and more.

A selection of works is on display in Adjara State Art Museum.

This collection includes paintings and graphics by distinguished Georgian masters: Niko Pirosmani, David Kakabadze, Lado Gudiashvili, Elene Akhvlediani and mote, totaling 500 exponents.

The Batumi Archeological Museum offers a collection of items dating back to the Bronze and Middle ages. The exposition includes samples of unique coins. There are more than 22, 000 exponents kept in the museum fund.

You can visit the Stalin House-Museum and the Museum of Religion. The Nobel Museum is also a must-see venue, displaying those technological novelties which made Batumi a manufacturing city. There is history and a few mechanical items and pictures from the development of the oil industry in Batumi with the train and pipelines from Baku and involvement of the Nobel Brothers in these processes.

Coffee One can often catch the delicious aroma of coffee in Batumi’s narrow streets Drinking a cup of so-called Turkish coffee is a kind of tradition and ritual for Batumi inhabitants. There are lots of open-air cafes where Batumi residents and their guests get together to have this encouraging drink. Coffee made in Batumi tastes truly delicious.

56

Cafes and Restaurants There are various open-air or indoor café-restaurants, night clubs, bars and casinos, where, apart from the famous Batumi coffee, one can taste a large variety of delicious national, European and Asian dishes. Adjarian khachapuri, Achma (khachapuri with boiled layers) and Bakhlava (cake with nuts and honey) are top of the list of scrumptious food from the Adjara region. One can also enjoy live music performed in most venues.

The season in Batumi opens around the end of June and lasts till mid-October. A specially popular and traditional venue where Batumi inhabitants get together often is seaside café “Beach” in the port. The café, with a view over the sea is, a blend of architectural elements from Stalin’s epoch and modern times. One more picturesque venue is the “Fish Market” café.

S A PLACE FOR LOVER Love

” stands on the beach in Batumi.

A seven meter steel sculpture called “ Created by Georgian artist, Tamar Kvesitadze, who was inspired from the book “Ali and Nino” by Kurban Said. The figures of a man and a woman move toward each other and merge into one piece every 10 minutes.

C H UR C H E S A ND H OU S E S OF W OR S HI P St. Barbare Church on Rustaveli Avenue, next to the “Sheraton,” is surrounded by a pleasant park.

WHERE TO STAY

Virgin Mary’s Cathedral church of Gothic style harmoniously blends with the city’s architecture. The church is built with stones that change color according to the weather.

There are lots of boutique, family, middle-class, fashionable and high-class hotels in the city. Batumi residents are very hospitable and always try their best to create a cozy, home-like atmosphere in guest-houses. Renting a flat is also a good option and prices start from 20 GEL per night.

Flats near to the boulevard are inevitable more expensive. In the center of Batumi you’ll find 5-star hotels “Sheraton,” “Radisson Blu,” “Hilton” and “Kempinski.” These hotels have appeared in recent years and offer absolute comfort with restaurants, open and indoor swimming pools, casinos, conference halls and spa salons.

The Mosque “Ortajame” was painted by Lazian brothers and built with donation money. It is located between two other mosques.

Armenians make up 10 % of Batumi’s population. The Gregorian church “Surbprkitsi” was built in 1890 using the project of Austrian architect Marpheld.

Jews are proud of their synagogue, located next to the State Museum named after Khariton Akhvlediani. This building is an exact analogue of the Haag and Amsterdam synagogues.

MAGNETIC SAND THE YACHT CLUB

One of the most picturesque and breezy places of Batumi, in the Yacht Club the temperature is always low compared with other places. It can be found on Gogebashvili Street - near the “Wheel” attraction and sea harbor. One can make remarkable trips there along the coastline: cruises with children or adrenaline trips in private boats. Speed-junkies can take trips on speedboats or have a go with a parachute in good weather. A 30-minute tour at sea by speedboat costs 50 GEL. NOTE: THE CLUB DOES NOT YET HAVE MODERN INFRASTRUCTURE.

The small town of Ureki is located several kilometers from Batumi. Ureki’s distinguishing feature is a long stretch of beach with magnetic sand, which is said to have surprising curative properties for cardiovascular, nervous, respiratory and bone systems of those who smother themselves in it.

The sand (volcanic) is black here and the water depth very shallow. Ureki is ideal for children and teenagers. You can find many middle and high-class hotels there, as well as family guest-houses.

Rescue Service

There are around ten modern rescue watch-towers on the beach which also serve as medical rooms. Due to the large number of tourists, the rescue corps has recently increased to 200 people.

FUNICULAR A 2650-meter long funicular cable car service connects Batumi with Peria Mountain in Khelvachauri, leaving from Gogebashvili Street. One can enjoy fascinating views of the coastline, night Batumi and Adjara Mountains. Cable cars go up to the multifunctional complex “Argo”, which has the

58

shape of a ship and puts together conference and exhibition halls, an entertainment center for children, a casino, and a restaurant. Tickets should be purchased which are on sale in kiosks throughout the city as well as at the funicular stations themselves.

59

Mountainous

Adjara TEXT: IRMA KAKHURASHVILI

KHELVACHAURI, SHUAKHEVI, KHONI, MTIRALA PARK, THE BATUMI BOTANICAL GARDEN Fresh air, picturesque landscapes, hospitable inhabitants and a plethora of traditions – that’s a short list of what can be expected in the Adjara mountains. The average height of mountains in Adjara is 2000-2500 meters with highest, the Kanlidaghi, located at 3007 meters above sea level. Here, Goderdzi’s Pass can also be found (2025 meters) on the main Batumi –Akhaltsikhe road.

While exploring this route you will be able to catch a glimpse of the magnificent landscapes and to breathe fresh Alpen air.

KHELVACHAURI

Khelvachauri is a mountainous place. In the southern part of Machakhela gorge the border divides Georgia and Turkey. This gorge consists of several large and many small villages: Gvara, Kedkedi, Adjarisaghmarti, Tskhemrala, Chkhutuneti, Chikuneti, Sindieti, Saputkreti, Gorgadzeti and Vake.

There are various historical-cultural heritage sites: castles, churches, winepresses and cellars, and water fountains built in stone.

This gorge is particularly famous for its stone-arched bridges of varying sizes. The largest is Khemlari bridge with a length of 25 meters and width of 2 meters.

Tourists can explore these fascinating sites and see some castles: Korolistvali, Chkhutuneti and Gvara and visit the Transfiguration Church in Akhalsheni village. There is also the Machakhela

60

Ethnographic Museum located in the former Mosque and the Lazian Ethnographic Museum, which displays to visitors a selection of ancient Kolkhian and Lazian items.

Shuakhevi

Shuakhevi is rich in fossils and mineral waters. The rivers abundant in fish; the forests heavy with wild fruits and healing plants.

It is recommended to visit Nigazeuli fortress - located at 800 meters above sea level in the village of the same name. Kiviani castle in Khichauri village, which dates back to the XIII century and Otolta and Chanchalo castles.

Gomarduli village belongs to the Shuakhevi Municipality and is located 74 km from Batumi. It is possible to arrange some interesting activities there: hiking, horse-riding, rock climbing, camping and more.

Khulo

Khulo is a very beautiful village which is also home to lots of castles. 7 km from Khulo in the village of Uchkho, one can see an arched bridge dating back to the XI – XII centuries. There is also the Local Lore Museum in Khulo with a selection of 745 exponents.

Beshumi is one of the most famous summer resorts there, surrounded by sub-alpine forests, with astonishingly fresh air and a high level of ionization. The resort welcomes its guests from June to September. Tourists can enjoy their stay in comfortable cottages and attend the traditional celebration “Shuamtoba” in the middle of August. The celebration lineup also includes a horserace. Goderdzi Pass is one of Khulo’s resorts offering a variety fascinating activities: hiking in the mountains and forests,

riding bicycles, flying with paraplanes, tasting mineral waters and a visit to the “Bear Reservation.” Those who are more interested in exotic nature can visit the beautiful green lake, located between looming mountains: the sight of the transparent water reflecting the mountain range is rather impressive and great for chilling out.

The National Park of Mtirala

Situated 14 km from the Tbilisi-Batumi highway, the National Park of Mtirala, 15,804 hectares, might be particularly interesting for people into ecotourism. Mtirala Mountain (mtirala in Georgian means weeper) is the mountain which often “weeps” sediment in Georgia. There is also an inviolable Kolkhetian forest with lots of mineral waters and healing springs; a kind of asylum for rare varieties of flora and fauna. The listing of remarkable sights there include Skhalta Church, and Khilkhani, Gonio and Petra castles.

The tour in the national park begins at the Visitor Centre. While strolling along the pass, one can catch a glimpse of Georgian walnut and Kolkhetian nut trees kept in the “Red Book” of protected spaces. It is also possible to come across a bear, marten, fox and mountain eagle. There is a very nice place for picnics 2 km from the Visitor Center. The path then continues between box-trees and leads to a 12-meter high waterfall, dropping into the crystal clear river nearby which flows into a lake rich with trout.

The Visitor Center in Chakvistavi village has an informational and exposition space, and hotel rooms. The Center can also provide sleeping-bags, backpack and tents, offers conference halls, guide and car services.

The Batumi Botanical Garden

It is highly recommended to visit this beautiful place – hilly, diverse, with stunning views of the Black Sea. The Batumi Botanical Garden in Mtsvane Kontskhi is a 113 hectare area of land 9 km north of Batumi city. The garden was founded by the Russian bot anist Andrey Krasnov in the 1880s and officially opened in 1912.

Two skilled gardeners and decorators – the French D’Alphonse and the Georgian, Yason Gordeziani, supported the botanist.

The garden was further expanded and developed, and is currently one of the largest in the world consisting of nine floristic sectors: those of the Caucasian humid subtropics, East Asia, New Zealand, South America, the Himalayas, Mexico, Australia, and of the Mediterranean. The garden collection comprises 2,037 taxonomic units of ligneous plants, including 104 of Caucasian origin.

There are decorative and landscape expositions in the garden, too where visitors can make a fascinating journey among blooming plants, Japanese decorative gardens and water pools.

For more comfort, visitors may travel around the gardens using electric cars, use wireless internet and also purchase some plants from the garden’s greenhouse.

If needed, German, English, Russian and Turkish language guides are available for 30 GEL. There is also a large library and herbarium with more than 48, 000 pages.

The doors of the garden are open from 08:00 to 21:00. For foreign citizens the entrance fee is 8 GEL and for children up to 16 – 1 GEL. The garden is adapted for the disabled.

61

Tusheti- a blend of real and surreal

Despite a variety of differences between peoples’ characters, their likes and dislikes, it seems that we are all connected in this weird and beautiful world by one thing: the pursuit of happiness.

Happiness means, naturally, different things to different people.

For me, happiness is synonymous with hiking in calm and peaceful mountainous places, riding horses, sitting around the fire and watching the starlit sky.

In order to get a true taste of national culture and get authentic, long-lasting impressions - you should definitely venture to Georgia’s highland. Tusheti is one such region - an amazing place with snow-covered rocky peaks, deep gorges and steep, grassy hills with flocks of sheep.

62

This remote Georgian region is located on the northern slopes of the Greater Caucasus Mountains. Although it is approximately 200 km from Tbilisi, the journey to Tusheti may last for hours due to the nerve-jangling, winding and narrow pass from Kakheti, at almost 3000 meters above sea level. The region is completely isolated for months at a time and it is only possible to travel there from June to early October. The largest village, Omalo, is populated by several people throughout the winter though nowadays most of Tusheti’s population has houses around Akhmeta and Alvani in Kakheti and, as traditional sheep herders, they go up to Tusheti in summertime to graze their sheep or cattle and also to host tourists in their guest-houses. Villages in Tusheti are very beautiful, with houses and fortresses built from shale which have pitched roofs made out of floating slates. What’s more, Tusheti is famous for its high quality wool.

Tushetian cheese (guda) is also a significant highlight of the region. Some people don’t like it because of its specific smell and taste. For me personally, a piece of guda cheese wrapped in warm Georgian bread is one of the most beloved gastronomic delights - simple, healthy, and very tasty. While mentioning food, I will also note that pork is taboo in Tusheti. Farmers do not raise pigs and travelers are usually advised not to bring any pork into the region.

In order to make trips to Tusheti more coordinated, tourists should visit Tusheti Nature Reserve and National Park, located in the Administrative Building of Protected Areas, with integrated hotel rooms for visitors, a cafe and the Visitor Center with exhibition and conference halls, interpretation and information boards. Visitors can plan various types of sightseeing tours there and gain information on existing services, such as staying at hotels, hiring guides, and horse-riding. Tusheti Protected

Areas has 11 functioning tourist routes, giving visitors the opportunity to get a unique historical-cultural experience and view the amazing landscapes of Tusheti.

Transportation to Tusheti Protected Areas is not available from Tbilisi but visitors can get to Lower Alvani village by minibus from Ortachala or Navtlughi bus terminals.

Another option is to travel by taxi from the Metro Isani territory. Traveling from Tbilisi to Lower Alvani will take approximately 1 hour 30 minutes. There is no regular transport from Alvani to Omalo and you can reach the village only by hiring a private car in the center of Lower Alvani. From Alvani to Omalo is 85 km and needs around 3 hours and 30 minutes. For more details you can visit the Tusheti National Park Facebook page.

Despite the long and winding road, don’t miss a chance to explore this amazing region with starlit sky, deep gorges and steep, grassy hills with little white dots of sheep.

63

Must-sees in upper Svaneti 64

Mestia, the main regional centre of Zemo (upper) Svaneti, is situated 456 km from Georgia’s capital city, Tbilisi, and is 1,500 metres above sea level.

It is the starting point for most trips to Svaneti, with a range of hotels, guesthouses and local travel services, and is a very convenient base for exploring the area. From the centre of Mestia it is possible to hike up to the glaciers at the foot of Mount Ushba, or take horses up to the pristine

1. Svaneti Historic and Ethnography Museum The museum was founded in 1936 and houses historic artifacts from the Svaneti region including engraved art and unique icons; a rich collection of manuscripts, medieval weaponry, iron, silver and copper ornaments; jewelry, pottery, a collection of textile items; and ethnographic artifacts depicting ancient life in Svaneti.

LOCATION: MESTIA

alpine meadows. Plus, a new ski resort makes it possible to ski or snowboard even in the height of summer.

Tourists interested in religious history will find plenty of examples of wall paintings, frescoes and icons from the Middle Ages in the churches around Mestia. Within Mestia, Saint George Church has preserved crosses and icons from the XII century and, Pusdi Church still contains fragments of XIII century wall paintings.

2. Museum of Michael Khergiani The ground floor of the museum houses personal items of famous alpinist and Merited Master of Sport, Michael Khergiani (1932-1969). Among the collection you will find climbing equipment, clothing, photos, awards, gifts - including music records of Vladimir Vysotsky and a song which he dedicated to Khergiani, and many more items.

LOCATION: MESTIA

3. Transfiguration Cathedral in Laghami The church is located in Laghami –the old part of Mestia. The first floor of the two-storey basilica is named after Great Martyr Barbara (Barblash) and dates back to the IX century. The second floor was constructed in XIII-XIV centuries and is decorated with beautiful frescos. The outer wall of the cathedral is also covered with paintings.

The northern facade depicts the “Banishment of Adam and Eve from the Garden of Eden” while the eastern wall features “Hunting of St. Eustaphios”. The cathedral also houses a XIII century gold and silver engraved icon of Christ (pantokratori).

4. Ski lift and the view from Zuruldi About 8 km from Mestia, you will come to Hatsvali, where a 1.5 kilometer long cablecar will take you up to mount Zuruldi. This mountain is well known for its unique views, featuring white slopes of Tetnuldi and the Caucasus mountain range. During the winter months, this area features a 2,400 meter long ski slope.

5. Chalaadi Glacier The glacier is located on the southern slope of the Caucasus Mountains, at the source of the river Mestia- Chala. The glacier is located at 1,850 meters above sea level. Chalaadi is the only glacier that interjects into the forest zone. The glacier is fed by the mountain tides of Bzhedukhi, Chatini and Dalaqori.

6. ushguli Ushguli is located in the municipality of Mestia, at the bottom of mountain Shkhara, near the confluence of rivers Inguri and Shavtsqala-Kvishara. The community is comprised of four villages (Zhibiani, Chvibiani, Murqmeli and Chazhashi) and their height ranges from 2,060 meters to 2,200 meters above sea level. This makes Ushguli the highest settlement in Europe. The center of the community – the village of Chazhashi -has been declared a museum and is among the UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

7. Kala Located in the Municipality of Mestia, Kala includes eight villages: Agra, Ipari, lalkhori, Davberi, Khe, Vichnashi, Khelde and Laskrali. The major tourist attractions are: the XI century Ipari church, the XI century St. Kvirike Church (Lagurka) and the village Kheshi.

66

8. Adishi Within the vicinity of Adishi village you can find numerous monuments of medieval Georgian art: four churches featuring beautiful frescoes, traditional houses, unique towers, and samples of engraved artwork.

9. Ipari-Nakipari Church of St. George The eastern facade of the chapel features depictions of animals. The interior of the church was painted in 1130 by a man named Theodore, who was an artist for the King.

An engraved icon of St. George, crafted by a XI century goldsmith, can also be found preserved in the church.

10. Church of Christ Located in the village of Latali, the local people refer to it as “matskhvarishi”.

Constructed in the X century, the church features a mesmerizing quality of artistry.

The church also houses a XII century Byzantine cross decorated with cloisonné enamel.

67

67

UNPREDICTABLE SVANETI ABOVE THE CLOUDS TEXT: GIORGI KEKELIDZE PHOTO: GOGA CHANADIRI

68

It’s a totally different thing, a different direction and route. Roads twist and turn as if they are preparing you for some odd and unpredictable experience, taking you up to clouds and sky. Yes, indeed, Svaneti is a place which deserves such a poetic description because it is it self a metaphor. Svaneti is repeated and hard-to-categorize unexpectedness - no matter how many times you visit the place.

It’s a bit difficult to make any plans regarding where to start a tour from and what to see. Maybe from the museum? Why not?! It is a fantastic venue, with a wide selection of exhibits. Each item – a story.

Furthermore, Svaneti is always lacking in time. So much needs to be seen there that one day is like a fleeting moment. The Ushguli road is like a hair bridge, but it will never be torn down; it’s a road of destiny and when you end your journey, you might wonder: did I really travel that road, or was it only a dreamy imagination? Castles there are like fairy tales and sometimes even exaggerate them. Architecture there has three functions: beauty, dwelling and strength. The air is so transparent that you truly feel how different things are around you, touching your eyes.

Kubdari (bread stuffed with chunks of meat and spices) is must-have dish above the clouds. Kubdari will make your hunger fade away in a moment but will leaving you wanting more and more.

Head up Tetnuldi (a prominent peak in the central part of the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range) but it won’t be you climbing: a magnet will draw you forward. Tetnuldi – white and still remote, no matter how close you feel you are getting. Skiing adventures are to be had at the bottom of Tetnuldi in the winter.

You should purchase a Svanetian hat. You can wear it in hot or cold and you will be able to capture that split second feeling that Svaneti is home to men and women of different strengths - with different aims.

It is only possible above the clouds.

I once met Nora Kakhiani, the head of the library in Cholashi village.

She has been guarding books in the mountainous village for years.

Her son has passed away, but she is strong, skilled and the guardian of future knowledge. Svaneti is also place of the future. All the stronger for its past.

You will make this journey!

The Georgian Alphabet TEXT: IRMA KAKHURASHVILI

The Georgian alphabet is one of only 14 existing alphabets in the world and was recently granted the national status of cultural heritage.

Georgian script itself was created in the 3rd century BC by Georgian King Parnavaz. According to archeological data, the creation of Georgian alphabet dates back to the 4th and 5th centuries. There are three historical forms in the Georgian alphabet: asomtavruli (capitals), nuskhuri (small letters) and mkhedruli. Each script has its own individual graphical style.

Georgians currently use the mkhedruli script, as it corresponds closely to the phonemes of the Georgian language style. This manuscript is distinctive and unusual to a stranger’s eye. The Georgian manuscript is regarded as one of the most beautiful along with the Birman, Tagalog and Javanese scripts. The mkhedruli alphabet dates back to the 11th century and, as some linguists say, the Arabian manuscript style and calligraphy had a

70

deep influence on mkhedruli script formation. Its lettering is not complicated with an outline on verticals and rounded contours.

The Georgian alphabet has 33 letters - 5 vowels and 28 consonants. There are no capital or small letters in the modern alphabet and the letters in the Georgian alphabet follow a similar order to the Greek alphabet - the first 25 letters have the same order but the second part consists of those Georgian characteristic letters which do not exist in the Greek alphabet.

Based on long-term studies, British linguists consider that the first common language for humanity originates from the Caucasus. British scientist Mark Pagel had quite an impact when he asserted that the first language of humanity appeared on the territory of Georgia. Pagel also sees traces of an ancient language in Georgian. There are other theories as well, and some scientists connect traces of Georgian language with Egyptian civilization.

**

The first Georgian published book “Georgian Alphabet with prayers” was published in 1629 in Rome. The book consists of the Georgian mkhedruli script, prayers, the Ten Commandments and the hymn of Virgin Mary - in the Georgian language with Latin transcriptions.

**

The first publishing-house in Tbilisi was established by King Vakhtang VI in 1708-1709, consequently becoming known as

Vakhtang’s Publishing-house. The first book issued here was the “Gospel”. The publishing-house had several prints: Georgian, khutsuri, mkhedruli, Greek and Lathin.

**

Georgian script is unified in computer systems according to Unicode standard, where asomtavruli, nuskhuri, and mkhedruli are recognized as independent manuscripts. The most common Georgian computer font is Sylfaen.

71