Georgia To See / Summer Issue N4 by Ana Boko

TIPS for Visitors and Tourists

A landscape of Georgia To See’s summer issue is much more eclectic and interesting, traditionally providing you with some practical advices optimally to plan your trip in Georgia. Our main focus is to make your journey here more coordinated and consequently, in our summer menu our expert will try to clear it up - why Georgian cuisine has a special place in the Caucasus known as a “culinary pot”. About ropeways you will know that the first one here was established in 1957 to connect the central part of the city, Rustaveli Avenue, with Mtatsminda Park. Successful poets and musicians will highlight 5 must-see places. You can mark an interesting event in a cultural line up. Tbilisi is home to numerous high level festivals this year. Electronic music is one of the highpoints. If you are in a mood of venturing outside the capital, it’s up to you to choose a horseback tour in Tbilisi surroundings, planning adventures in mountainous Adjara, Shuakhevi and Khelvachauri or visiting Kakheti region. The remarkable nature, climate and awesome location of Borjomi and Bakuriani attracts many visitors to escape the summer heat. Finally, the special guest of this issue is Gori Women’s Choir. The legendary Choir is collaborating with Georgian and London-based singer Katie Melua. Plan your journey with Georgia to See and get more information, if you want to experience a real adventure.

GORI WOMENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S CHOIR Photo: ANA BOKO

redaqcia N3

MARIAM TSKITISHVILI

ISSUE #4

CONTENTS TIPS for Visitors and Tourists

MADE IN GEORGIA! Innovative Devices on the Global Market

What to see

IN GEORGIA’S CAPITAL

Moving like the Number 8 …

SALVE !

TBILISI’S ROPEWAYS

A Street of Concepts

Georgian Summer Menu Persona KARLO KACHARAVA

Cultural Events Line Up

ENJOYABLE AND STRIKING HORSEBACK Tours in Tbilisi Surroundings

Gori Women’s Choir to Captivate Audiences of the UK and Europe

TRAVEL

MUST- SEE PLACES IN SUMMER

TIPS for Visitors and Tourists

Every city lives by its own individual rhythm. The doors of most public workplaces open at 09.00 am and urban noise quits after midnight in Tbilisi, after which public transport also sleeps and people can only travel by taxi. The most distinctive districts are located in Tbilisi’s southern part, around Freedom Square. These must-sees with narrow blind alleys and nice views, belong to the Old Town. The population of Tbilisi increased when many displaced people moved here as a result of armed conflicts in the 1990s. Consequently, unemployment and lack of stable work are big problems for Georgia’s capital. Georgians greet each other with a kiss and usually use the words: rogora khar? (how are you?) It’s also perfectly acceptable to express your positive attitude just by shaking hands.

words

TRY TO KEEP THESE THREE WORDS IN MIND: •

“GAMARJOBA” (HELLO),

•

“MADLOBA” (THANK YOU) AND

•

“NAKHVAMDIS” (GOOD-BYE).

If you want to ask something in the street, it is better to address a young person - it is more likely he will understand your question. Middle-aged people would be also helpful, but they rarely speak English.

There are some English-language newspapers published in Georgia which are available in press-kiosks throughout the city. Tbilisi is the only city in the Caucasus where a Mosque, a Synagogue and Catholic and Orthodox Christian churches are located together in one district. Tbilisi’s population is multiethnic; consisting of Georgians, Armenians, Jews, Azeris and Greeks. There are many Orthodox Christian churches in Georgia. Men should enter without hats and women should cover their hair and not wear too ‘open’ clothing. Ancient buildings make a contrasting blend with Soviet architecture in Tbilisi. There are various hostels, guest-houses and chic hotels in the central and historical districts in Georgia’s capital. In order to get information about this and other issues, you can head to the information Center located in Pushkin Garden on Freedom Square. There are a lot of resorts on the coast and in the mountains, but few two and three-star hotels. If you find a hotel expensive, you can rent a flat and easily negotiate the price. Tbilisi’s nightlife is not very intensive. But still clubbing-connoisseurs and culture-vultures can visit trendy and cozy café-restaurants, modern night clubs and enjoy live music performances in the Old Town - at Bambis Rigi, Shardeni, Erekle II and Leselidze streets.

TRAFFIC

SECURITY It is prohibited to keep, sell and consume drugs in Georgia. Smoking marihuana is also a crime, punishable with several years of imprisonment. Avoid strangers offering to sell you drugs. There are various money exchange points in Georgia’s capital, but when you have to exchange a large amount of money, it is safer to do so in a bank. There are several police-stations in each district. But still, avoid walking alone in the dark. In an emergency situation call 112 from a city or cell phone. Watch out for your bags and cameras. Don’t leave them unattended. Keep an eye on your wallets and documents, especially in crowded places. Keep them in inner and fully zipped pockets. Only carry around as much money as you need for that day, no more. Leave valuables that you aren’t going to use on the day in the hotel safe.

Traffic is more intense from around 5.00 pm to 7 pm in Tbilisi. It is common to give up your seat to small children and elderly people in public transport. There are electronic bus timetables at most bus-stops which show the exact time of a bus arrival in Georgian and English. Tickets should be bought on boarding a bus and cost 50 Tetri. In minibuses passengers pay only before getting out. Tbilisi minibuses (so-called marshutka) are yellow and a passenger can stop one whenever he wants, excluding Freedom Square, and Rustaveli and Chavchavadze avenues where they can only be stopped at bus-stops. Price - 80 Tetri, in some districts – 40 Tetri. Minibuses are often busy and some passengers travel standing. Even if the minibus is full, a driver will still likely stop for you if you wave your hand. Then it is up to you whether you want to squeeze in or not. The Tbilisi Metro has 21 stations and one transfer line from Station Square to Saburtalo line. The Metro is open from 6.00 am to 12.00 pm. You should purchase special plastic cards for traveling by underground. These cards are on sale at station kiosks and cost 2 GEL whilst journeys themselves – 50 Tetri. Traveling by taxi –the fastest overground transport in Tbilisi – is pretty common here. A cab can be taken/called up easily everywhere. If you grab a taxi in the street, it is better to negotiate the price beforehand with the driver as foreign tourists sometimes get told double the real price. Taxis are not expensive here. For example: 2 GEL is the acceptable price to ride from Freedom Square to Metechi Bridge by cab.

In case of you lose your plane tickets, credit cards or other documents, immediately contact the police (112). You should make copies of your documents prior to your arrival in Georgia, just in case.

Despite the number of cyclists increasing rapidly, there are no special bike-lanes for bicycles and drivers tend to be dispassionate to cyclists. It is not common in Georgia to travel by hitch-hiking, but if you still come across this, before taking a seat make sure it is safe, even with Georgians who are open and hospitable. Tbilisi International Airport is located 20 km from the center of Tbilisi. It is possible to get there by taxi (15-20 GEL) as well as by public transport which works from 08.00 to 20.00. Travel cost: 50 Tetri.

FOOD At restaurants you can taste the pearls of Georgian cuisine – khachapuri (cheese bread) and khinkali (dumplings), both of which should be eaten by hand without forks. Georgians are fond of salty and spicy dishes. So, if you don’t like such food, discuss it with the service staff when ordering.

There is WI-FI in almost every café and restaurant in Tbilisi. Hotels in different regions of Georgia also have access to the Internet.

Tbilisi is not included on the list of expensive cities. A minimum monthly income is around 200 GEL. Lots of Georgians, especially women, work in foreign countries in order to provide for their families. Many citizens buy natural and organic food direct from the villages.

Natural and organic food – cheese, vegetables, meat and Georgian sweets - can be purchased at the Agrarian market near Station Square metro-station. For safety avoid outside traders and stand-alone kiosks.

Georgia is the cradle of wine, with more than 500 grape varieties. Wine is more honored here than beer or vodka. It is a great sign of respect for a person if someone offers a toast to him with a glass of wine. The Georgian feast is a significant part of spiritual and cultural tradition and part of the Georgian identity. Wine, bread, toasting and song are the main components of the Georgian feast. If you are invited to a Georgian feast and a host drinks a toast to you, you should express your gratitude by drinking his toast as well and your gesture will be much appreciated. Georgians usually drink lots of wine, but don’t get drunk easily. Being drunk it is not an embarrassment here. It is illegal for Georgian society to drink wine, vodka, or any other alcoholic beverage, from bottles in the street.

There are special smoking areas in restaurants, cafes, bars and other public places. Tap water is drinkable. Famous Georgian mineral waters are on sale in every market or corner shop. Garbage (except construction garbage) is not classified in Tbilisi and is thrown together in bins.

CITY GUIDE

Elene Akhvlediani House Museum ADDRESS: 12 L. Kiacheli St.; TEL: +995 (32) 299 74 12 WORKING HOURS: every day except Sunday and Monday - 10.00 - 18.00 TICKET PRICE: Free. The house-museum of this famous Georgian painter of the XX century was established in 1976. Elene Akhvlediani studied in France and Italy for years and, after returning to Georgia, her house became a kind of art salon, often hosting poetry evenings and concerts. Eminent musicians such as S. Richter and H. Neihaus also played there. The artist collected more than 4000 paintings during her life, which are on display in the house-museum. One can also find a variety of photos and documentary information there.

Folk and Applied Arts Museum ADDRESS: 28 Sh. Dadiani St.; TEL: +995 (32) 299 97 22; +995 (32) 299 61 52. WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday - 11.00 - 18.00 TICKET PRICE: Adults - 2.00-3.00 Gel, Children - 1.00 Gel. You can view works of Georgian and Caucasian masters of gold and silver dating back to the XIX-XX centuries and a collection of Caucasian carpets, graphics, and paintings of primitive painters.

Tbilisi Open Air Museum of Ethnography ADDRESS: 1 Kus Tba Highway.; TEL: +995 (32) 272 90 46 WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday - 10:00 - 18:00 TICKET PRICE: Adults - 1.50 Gel (at temporary exhibitions - 3.00 Gel), Children - 1.00 Gel, Students 1.00 Gel. Guided tour - 10.00 Gel. The Open Air Museum is located in Tbilisi, Vake district, to the west of “Turtle Lake” and is spread out over 65 hectares of land. The Museum features objects of traditional art and architecture from different parts of Georgia. It was founded in 1966 by George Chitaia, a famous Georgian ethnographer and academician. This is one of the most unique museums in Georgia, where you can explore the architecture and traditions of Georgian regions and also relax in a wonderful recreation zone.

Iakob Nikoladze House Museum ADDRESS: 6 Rodeni St. TEL: +995 (32) 222 14 14 WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday - 10.00 - 17.00 TICKET PRICE: Free. The house-museum of a prominent Georgian realistic sculptor and one of the co-founders of the Georgian art school.

The pursuit of pleasant sights and sensations are all wondrously satisfied the moment you step into the spacious Hotel lobby, where you become a witness of the unreal scenery that unfolds right in front. For Reservation +995 32 2400099 | www.roomshotels.com | Reception: +995 32 2710099 1V.Gorgasali Street,Stepantsminda, Georgia

Lado Gudiashvili Exhibition Hall ADDRESS: 11 L. Gudiashvili St.; TEL: (+995 32) 293 23 05 WORKING HOURS: every day, except Mondays and official holidays 11:00 - 18:30. TICKET PRICE: Adults - 5 GEL; Children from 6-18 - 3 GEL; Students and pensioners (with ID) - 3 GEL; Admission is free for orphan groups (with proof of status) and for children under 6. Upon the initiative of Lado Gudiashvili’s family, a part of the former living space of the artist has been kept as an exhibition hall since 2011. The three-leveled, elegant exhibition space of the Lado Gudiashvili Exhibition Hall is officially open to the public. In addition to the artist’s permanent exhibitions, the Exhibition Hall also holds temporary showings, lectures and seminars covering all aspects of contemporary art. The main profile of the Exhibition Hall is to provide a permanent platform for visitors to view Gudiashvili’s works by providing temporary exhibitions of his affluent heritage. Lado Gudiashvili (1896-1980) was one of the most prominent Georgian artists of the 20th century. He graduated from the Tbilisi School of Fine Arts in 1914. In 1919 he moved to Paris to study at Ronson’s “Free Academy” (1919-1926). The painter was also an active member of Paris’ vibrant art scene.

Literature-Memorial Museum of Ilia Chavchavadze ADDRESS: 7 I. Javakhishvili St. WORKING HOURS: every day except Sunday and Monday - 10.00 - 17.00 TICKET PRICE: Free. Ilia Chavchavadze (1837 – 1907) was a Georgian writer, poet, journalist and lawyer who spearheaded the revival of the Georgian National Movement in the late 19th century during the Russian rule of Georgia. Today, he is widely regarded as one of the founding fathers of modern Georgia. In 1987 he was canonized as Saint Ilia the Righteous by the Georgian Orthodox Church.

Mirza Fatali Akhundov Azerbaijani Culture Museum ADDRESS: 17 Gorgasali St.; Tel: +995 (32) 272 15 71 WORKING HOURS: every day except Sunday and Monday - 10.00 - 17.00 TICKET PRICE: Free. Mirza Fatali Mammad Taghi Oglu Akhundov was a celebrated Azerbaijani author, playwright, philosopher, and founder of modern literary criticism.

Money Museum ADDRESS: 3/5 Leonidze St.; TEL: +995 (32) 240 64 05 WORKING HOURS: every day except weekends - 10:00 - 16:00 TICKET PRICE: Adults - 0.50 Gel, Children - 0.10 Gel, Students - 0.20. Guided tour - free. The museum was established by the National Bank of Georgia and offers you an interesting journey into the centuries-old history of money circulation in Georgia, from the 6th century B.C. to the present, and also shows samples of foreign currency from different countries of the world. The exhibition starts by introducing a high nominal value tetra drachma of the ancient Colchian money, the so-called Kolkhuri Tetri. It is also possible to purchase replicas of old historical Georgian coins, modern Georgian jubilee and collection coins, and banknotes, books, brochures and CDs in the lobby of the Museum. 10

Shalva Amiranashvili Museum of Fine Arts ADDRESS: 1 L. Gudiashvili St.; TEL: +995 (32) 299 99 09 WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday - 10:00 - 18:00 TICKET PRICE Children - 1.00 Gel, Students - 1.00 Gel. Guided tour - 10.00 Gel. The Shalva Amiranashvili Museum of Fine Arts was established in Tbilisi in 1920

Museum stores the works of famous Georgian painters Niko Pirosmanishvili, Lado Gudiashvili, Elene Akhvlediani, David Kakabadze, and others. The Museum

Simon Janashia State National Museum of Georgia ADDRESS: 3 Rustaveli Ave.; TEL: +995 (32) 299 80 22 WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday 11:00 - 18:00 TICKET PRICE Children - 1.00 Gel, Students - 1.00 Gel. Guided tour - 10.00 Gel

M is the prehistoric human remains found in Dmanisi. These remains date back 1.8 million years and are the oldest sign of human existence outside of Africa. This -

State Silk Museum ADDRESS: 6 Tsabadze St.; TEL: +995 (32) 234 09 67; +995 (32) 234 09 63 WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday 11:00 - 17:00 TICKET PRICE: Adult - 3Gel, Schoolchildren and Graduate Student - 1 Gel, Group visitors (5 and more persons) - 2 Gel, Free of charge: children under 6 years, ICOM members and museum employees, researchers and graduates for research purposes, I and II category disabled persons, IDPs and socially vulnerable persons The State Silk Museum is one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest silk museums that aims to

Tbilisi Museum of History (Karvasla) ADDRESS: 8 Sioni St.; Tel: +995 (32) 292-32-27 WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday 11:00 - 17:00 TICKET PRICE: Adults - 1.50 Gel, Children -1.00, Students - 1.00 Gel, Guided tour - 10.00 Gel. of the city. It presents archeological, ethnological, archival materials, as well arts as

Zurab Tsereteli Museum of Modern Art ADDRESS: 27 Rustaveli Ave., Tel: +995 (32) 214-84-11 WORKING HOURS : 11:00 - 18:00, Day off: Monday TICKET PRICE: Adults - 5 GEL, Students - 1 GEL, School Children - 1 GEL, Socially vulnerable groups free entrance

Museum of Soviet Occupation ADDRESS: 3 Rustaveli Ave. WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday - 10:00 - 18:00 TICKET PRICE: Adults - 1.50 Gel, Children - 1.00 Gel, Students - 1.00 Gel. Guided tour - 10.00 Gel.

Vakhtang Chabukiani Museum ADDRESS: 83/23 Aghmashenebeli Ave. WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday and Sunday - 11.00 - 17.00 TICKET PRICE: Free. ballet dancers, he created the majority of the male choreography for many famous ballets including Le Corsaire and La Bayadere

Tbilisi Theater/ Concert Halls Royal District Theater ADDRESS: 10 G. Abesadze St., TEL:+995 (32) 99 61 71

Tbilisi State Opera ADDRESS: 25 Shota Rusataveli Ave., TEL:+995 (32) 204 45 54

Tbilisi State Marionette Theater ADDRESS: 26 Shavteli St.; TEL: +995 (32) 298 65 90

Tbilisi Z.Paliashvili Opera and Ballet State Theatre ADDRESS: 25 Rustaveli Ave.; TEL: +995(32)214 32 03

Tbilisi Concert Hall ADDRESS: 1 Melikishvili St.; TEL: +995 (32) 299 05 99

V.Sarajishvili State Conservatoire ADDRESS: 8-10 Griboedov St.; TEL: +995 (32) 299 91 44

Sh. Rustaveli State Dramatic Theater ADDRESS: 17 Rustaveli Ave.; TEL: +995 (32) 272 68 68

Fingers Theater ADDRESS: 8 Marjanishvili St.; TEL: +995 (32) 295 35 82

Kakha Bakuradze Movement Theater ADDRESS: Mushtaidi Garden, 182 Agmashenebeli Ave.; TEL: +995 (599) 01 55 67

Kote Marjanishvili State Acedemic Theater ADDRESS: 8 Marjanishvili St.; TEL: +995 (32) 295 40 01

Music And Drama State Theater ADDRESS: 182 Aghmashenebeli Ave.; TEL: +995 (32) 234 80 90; +995 (32) 234 79 59

Nabadi - Georgian Folklore Theater ADDRESS: 19 Rustaveli Ave.; TEL: +995 (32) 298 99 91

A. Griboedov Russian State Drama Theatre ADDRESS: 2 Rustaveli Ave.; TEL: +995 (32) 293 58 11; +995 (32) 293 18 40

Kakhidze Music Center ADDRESS: 123/125 D.agmashenebeli Ave. TEL: (+995) 32 295 01 19, 296 06 20, 296 12 43 BOX OFFICE: (+995 32) 2962207 E-MAIL: INFO@KAKHIDZEMUSICCENTER.COM

Artarea Gallery ADDRESS: 10 Dodo Abashidze St.

Art Gallery Line ADDRESS : 7 Bambis Rigi; 44 k. Abkhazi St.; Airport, “Primeclass” CIP lounges TEL: +995 (32) 250 85 80; +995 (599) 50 07 45

Gallery Container ADDRESS: 10G Radiani St. TEL: +995 (599) 01 38 38

Gallery Nectar ADDRESS: 16 Agmashenebeli Ave. TEL: +995 (32) 295 00 21; +995 (598) 51 15 05 WEB: www.gallerynectar.ge

Gallery Cameo ADDRESS: 11 Rkinis Rigi (near Metekhi Bridge)

Gallery Vanda ADDRESS: 14 Chonkadze St. TEL: +995 (32) 293 42 86

Artist ADDRESS: 69 Barnovi St. TEL: +995 (32) 229 43 31; +995 (599) 57 78 72

Baia Gallery ADDRESS: 10 Shardeni St. TEL: +995 (32) 275 45 10; +995 (599) 50 53 02

Gallery Tevdore ADDRESS: 6 Erekle II St. TEL: +995 (32) 298 98 56 14

O, moda, moda

Cafe Gabriadze

ADDRESS: 64 Barnov St., TEL: +995 (32) 243 00 41

ADDRESS: 13 Shavteli St., TEL: +995 (32) 298 65 94

Le Gateau ADDRESS: 42 Ir, Abashidze St., 24 Al. Kazbegi Avenue, TEL: +995 (32) 247 15 15, +995 (32) 247 00 07

Le Marais French Restaurant

Stelzen Haus

ADDRESS: 32 I. Abashidze St., TEL: +995 (32) 290 39 93 MOB: +995 (599) 15 39 04 WEBSITE: www.lemarais.info-tbilisi.com

ADDRESS: 8/10 Erekle II St., TEL: +995 (32) 293 38 88

Mukha Tsakatukha Café ADDRESS: 15,G.Akhvlediani St. (15, Perovskaia), TEL: +995 (32) 292 00 53 MOB: +995 (592) 45 67 37

Cafe Kama

CAFE IVERIA

ADDRESS: Roses Square 1

ADDRESS: 80 Paliashvili St., MOB: +995 (593) 11 03 03, +995 (577) 37 62 16

Café Leila Vegetarian & Vegan Restaurant ADDRESS: 18 Erekle 2 St., TEL: +995 (555) 94 94 20

Cafe Kama

Culinarium/Khasheria

ADDRESS: 1/17 Lermontov St., TEL: +995 32 2 43 01 03, +995 (599) 98 83 08 Web: info@culinarium.ge www.culinarium.ge

ADDRESS: 27 Abano St., TEL: +995 32 2 72 11 57, Web: geoculinarium@gmail.com www.culianrium.ge

Strada

ADDRESS: 7 Sandro Euli St., 5 K.Marjanishvili St. MOB: +995 (570) 30 40 40, Web: www.stradacafe.ge

Literaturuli Cafe

ADDRESS: 22 Abashidze St., 31 K.Gamsakhurdia St., 62 L. Asatianis St., TEL: +995 (32) 222 02 76, +995 (32) 237 89 02, +995 (32) 299 59 52

Bohema

ADDRESS: Abanotubani, 11 Grishashvili MOB: +995 (592) 56 68 68 Web: Info@bohema.ge

Citron Café ADDRESS: 7 Bambis Rigi, TEL: +995 (555) 53 01 26

Shavi Lomi (Tbilisi Cuisine) Restaurant/Café ADDRESS: 23 Amaglebis St., TEL: +995 (32) 293 10 07

Cafe Littera / Café · Outdoors ADDRESS: 13 Machabeli St., TEL: +995 (595) 03 11 12, (598) 50 72 72

The Dining Room

Dining Room Restaurant ADDRESS: 38 Zakaria Paliashvili St.,

Co-working space

Vere Loft ADDRESS: 3 Khorava St., TEL: +995 (591) 11 81 11

Vere Loft is a co-working space - an innovative & creative office space, a new format of working venue & environment design & created to make your working day extremely comfortable, priductive & inspiring. It is an ideal working atmosphere for various proffessions such as freelancer, IT specialist, painter, graphoc & interior designer, architect, photographer, videographer, web specialist, journalist, accountant & all other individuals who share our goals and values. www.vereloft.ge

What to see

IN GEORGIA’S CAPITAL Recommendations from Tbilisi Residents EKATERINE SIRADZE - DELONE, the Ambassador of Georgia to France

ST. DAVID’S CHURCH ON MTATSMINDA It’s a real pleasure to walk up to St. David’s Church, enjoy the silence there and have a look at noisy Tbilisi.

STROLLING ALONG SHAVTELI STREET Gabriadze Theatre, Anhiskhati Church…

GUDIASHVILI SQUARE A historical site in Old Tbilisi, near Freedom square. A plan for this place was created in the Middle Ages and the buildings here date back to the late XIX century and XX century. 18

THE WRITERS HOUSE with its newly opened cafĂŠ in the yard, a quiet and cozy place. This building of modern style, adorned with waved gablets, beautiful ornaments, modeled shells - is a real architectural landmark and a nice example of merged Tbilisian and European architectural styles.

NIKA MACHAIDZE musician

TSINAMDZGVRISHVILI

(FORMER KLARA TSETKINI)

STREET

I like the half- shabby typical Tbilisian houses and yards, often painted only superficially. These houses, flats, main entrances - all of them have their own history and I felt it while shooting my first film on this street diversity.

MONUMENTAL SOVIET ARCHITECTURE In the soviet times the architecture of such buildings was not highlighted and some today look brutally out from preserved constructions. For example, the odd buildings of the former Traffic Ministry and an archeological store located on a hill above the Dighomi highway.

Café-Store, O, Moda Moda located on Barnovi Street in Vera district: gourmet food, a comfy inner space and vintage interior. The Café has a beautiful hedged garden and from the noisy street you suddenly find yourself in an atmosphere where you feel relaxed and cozy.

CAFÉ NAUKA A new café in Dedaena Park near Dry Bridge which reminds me of a 1980s iconic café called “Anker,” in Berlin. But Nauka is located in an open space and one can feel youthfull energetic vibrations thanks to the teenager skaters hanging out nearby.

Night Club MTKVARZE

The club is located in an old building on the bank of the River Mtkvari at the beginning of Agladze Street. You can enjoy high-quality music and good sounds there.

DIANA ANFIMIADI poet

THE OLD PART OF TBILISI I highly recommend listening to “The literary bohemia of Old Tbilisi” by Ioseb Grishashvili while walking, the main focus point: Grishashvili’s museum in Ortachala showcasing rare books of the Ashiks, a collection of unique musical instruments and a fantastic library. From there it is best to take a walk along one of the old streets in Avlabari and enjoy the multicultural atmosphere and special linguistic diversity.

THE MAIN ENTRANCES OF SOLOLAKI BUILDINGS It is so interesting to see the wonderful adornment on the main entrances of houses on Leonidze, Machabeli and Ingorokva streets.

THE TRIP FROM ASATIANI STREET TO BETLEMI AND KLDISUBANI Betlemi’s staircase, upper and lower Betlemi churches, St. Giorgi church in Kldisubani and Ateshga, the fire temple and the signs of Zoroastrianism.

THE OLD CEMETERY OF KUKIA I recommend strolling through it with someone who knows Georgian so you can understand the inscriptions on the old grave stones. You’ll be sure to come across some awesome monuments- go and dive into the urban legends of Tbilisi.

THE CHILDREN’S PALACE GARDEN The Children’s Palace is a fascinating architectural complex on Rustaveli Avenue with theatrical and mirror halls and history - a center of Russian colonialism and later a cradle of independence. It is so exciting to stroll through the palace halls, feel the grandeur of the past and at the same time hear the voices of children in different rooms - a kind of symbolic conception of combining past and future. From the Palace you should definitely go to its marvelous garden, check out the rare plants there and catch a glimpse of the beautiful balcony looking out over the garden. 23

SOPHIE KILASONIA

art historian

METECHI CHURCH, CITADEL AND YARD While looking from the yard, you’ll see the Mtkvari riverbank and this is the very place from which the historic city begins. The oldest district and the church there were constructed in the V century, but were destroyed several times over. In the Soviet regime, Metechi Church functioned as a prison until 1938. During Soviet repressions in the 1930s, officials wanted to destroy the church, but society protested vehemently. The history of Metechi Church somehow resembles Georgia’s history.

THE WRITERS’ HOUSE Located at #13 Ivane Machabeli Street, this building has changed functions and owners many times and in recent years is has been home to the Writers House. It was built in 1903-1905 by Georgian Maecenas and businessman David Sarajishvili to celebrate his 25th wedding anniversary with Ekaterine Porakishvili. From the start, Sarajishvili’s house became an essential part of Tbilisi’s cultural life and a place where prominent writers and public figures gathered and worked on the conception of Georgia’s independence. The house has also hosted exhibitions and presentations of various publications and books. According to architectural experts, this building is a wonderful example of mixed Tbilisian and European architecture.

THE BUILDING OF THE MINISTRY OF INTERNAL AFFAIRS I have chosen those four buildings with one principle – to tell you history of Tbilisi and Georgia sequentially. Logically the last location should tell you something about the modern history of the capital. This style belongs to former president, Mikheil Saakashvili and is a series of buildings made of glass. Glass as an idea of transparency has moved from politics to urban spaces. You can see transparent bridges, police buildings and even the new building of the Ministry of Internal Affairs. Actually, the idea of transparency and openness found its place easier in architecture than in life, but anyway it stands as a challenge for modern Georgia.

IMELI BUILDING Located on Rustaveli Avenue and specially built as a filial of the MarxEngels-Lenin Institute, it housed a scientific-research institution and the Lenin Museum. The building façade was adorned with reliefs - very nice examples of Social realism art, created by the famous Georgian sculptors Iakob Nikoladze and Tamar Abakelia. In 2007 the building was removed from the list of cultural heritage buildings and was sold to be made into a hotel. The Soviet symbolic elements were removed from the façade but, thanks to public activism, two of its facades and a small part of the inner space have been preserved to the present day.

VAZHA-PSHAVELA AVENUE AND THE KHRUSHCHYOVKAS A low-cost, concrete-paneled or brick threeto five - storey apartment building which was developed in the USSR during the early 1960s at a time when their namesake, Nikita Khrushchev, directed the Soviet government. Vazha-Pshavela Avenue is a face as well as paradox of the Soviet Union. Vazha-Pshavela was a very significant Georgian writer, whose ideas were very close to freedom and humanism. Districts with Khrushchyovka buildings are among the most non-human and non-harmonious precedents in the history of architecture. 25

Moving like the Number 8 …

SALVE ! TEXT: NINO GVALIA

When I first entered I felt just like Alice in Wonderland… Little eggs turn into silkworms, eat dozens of mulberry leaves and, when they grow, start to work hard to make cocoons; they move like the number eight and have approximately 4000 muscles! Then the silkworms turn into pupae, later into butterflies and silk is produced from these cocoons. What a bizarre story and I knew almost nothing about it before stepping into the State Silk Museum! One of the oldest among Georgia’s museums, the State Silk Museum was established at the end of the XIX century by Russian natural scientist Nikolai Shavrov and is located in a beautiful building, constructed by well-known Polish architect Alexander Shimkevich. The museum has a wide exposition - depicting an interesting process of sericulture and silk production. The collection includes textile from different countries, beautiful silk laces, a dye collection, looms and various objects connected to silk. You can also enter the special room of a mulberry tree and check out unique photographs by the XIX century famous photographer Konstantin Zanis, who tried his best to catch all significant moments of silk production in the Caucasian region and also shot women in different silk clothing.

A museum library: one step in and you enter in a totally different world - awesome furniture dating back to the XIX century and a unique collection of books in more than twenty languages. The Museum furniture was made according to sketches by the architect, and one interesting fact is that the library bookcase has the same shape as the building itself. The State Silk Museum is a real historical artifact with its marble entrance and SALVE inscription (Welcome, in Latin) on the floor, long windows, cracks on the ceiling, but apart from its antique atmosphere, this institution is in a dialogue with contemporary art, housing interesting projects and exhibitions, educational programs and workshops. There is also a studio producing different accessories from cocoons and other material. There are not many silk museums worldwide, so while planning your trip in Georgia, try to visit the State Silk Museum located at #6 Tsabadze Street, near Dynamo Stadium. The Museum is especially active at the end of the spring and in the summer, when apart from the main exposition, it is possible to view the silkworms themselves as they make their cocoons and moving just like the number eight.

SHOPPING

A Street of Concepts TEXT: NINO GVALIA

STREETS AS LIVE URBAN ELEMENTS OF A CITY HAVE THEIR PERSONAL STORIES, MEMORIES, AND POSITIVE OR NEGATIVE VIBES. THEY CAN CHANGE; LOSING OR KEEPING THEIR MAIN CHARACTERISTICS. STREETS, LIKE PEOPLE, HAVE THEIR INDIVIDUAL WAYS OF LIVING… VASHLOVANI STREET IN VERA DISTRICT AT FIRST GLANCE IS A SMALL, OLD AND ORDINARY STREET WITHOUT ANY PRETENSIONS, BUT ONCE YOU SET FOOT THERE, YOU’LL MAKE A FEW UNEXPECTED URBAN DISCOVERIES- AT #1 VASHOLAVI STREET, YOU CAN DROP INTO THE CHUBIKA CONCEPT STORE: AN ART & CRAFT SUPPLY SHOP, SEVERAL METERS FURTHER ON, AT # 3, IS FUNDUKI: A FURNITURE, ACCESSORIES & SOUVENIRS SHOP AND, AT THE END OF THE STREET, IF YOU LOOK CAREFULLY, YOU’LL SEE THE ELEMENT CONCEPT STORE LOCATED AT # 5.

Nino Chubinashvili a.k.a. Chubika is a high-profile Georgian fashion designer with experience and important exhibitions to her credit. She opened her own concept shop and says that, like any other business, the fashion industry is also in need of marketing activities and, when launching the shop in 2015, her creative ideas and business initiatives began to harmonize. In the words of Chubika, she is at the juncture where art and fashion converge, where deep artistic ideas can be transmitted via objects like an Ipad bag, bracelets, necklaces, wallets, handbags, and belts. Subsequently, such chic and exclusive items, remarkable clothing, hats and other accessories can be found at # 1 Vashlovani Street and soon in Chubika’s online shop: www.chubika.com

The second highlight of the street - Funduki store - is run by architect Sandro Tsivtstivadze and his family. In this concept store you can purchase exclusive and creative Georgian souvenirs as well as designer accessories: bags, clothes, brooches, ceramics and posters. The store also offers designer furniture made from ecologically clean material, without glue, which is easy to dismantle and transport in special bags. The idea of creating such handy furniture, Sandro says, was inspired by the moving lifestyle of his family. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll also find the Hortensia Flower Shop in the same location, where you can purchase beautiful flower bouquets and other accessories.

The last stop on Vashlovani Street is the Element concept store, opened in 2015 by graphic designer Maia Sumbadze and her husband Bibi Sidamon-Eristavi. There you can find different lighting equipment and other 20th century objects. Most of the items were purchased at flea markets, but afterwards were creatively remade and consequently look really unique and exclusive.

THE OWNERS OF THE THREE STORES ON VASHLOVANI STREET GET ON WELL AND OFTEN COMMUNICATE, IN ADDITION THEY HAVE A VERY NICE INITIATIVE TO LAUNCH A KIND OF FESTIVAL OR OUTDOOR STREET EVENT, AIMING TO ATTRACT PEOPLE TO ONE OF THE MOST CONCEPTUAL STREETS OF TBILISI.

INTERVIEW

Gori Women’s Choir to Captivate Audiences of the UK and Europe

CHARISMATIC, EXPRESSIVE, REFINED AND MASTERS OF WONDERFUL SONORITY… THIS IS THE GORI WOMEN’S CHOIR LED AND CONDUCTED BY TEONA TSIRAMUA. THE CHOIR SINGERS WITH THEIR MAJESTIC VOICES HAVE CAPTIVATED MANY AUDIENCES AND THIS YEAR THEY WILL APPEAR WITH GEORGIAN AND LONDON-BASED MULTI AWARD-WINNING SINGER KATIE MELUA ON STAGES IN LONDON, BRISTOL, GUILDFORD, BIRMINGHAM, LEICESTER, LIVERPOOL, SOUTHAMPTON, MANCHESTER AND GLASGOW. MASTERS OF THE ANCIENT GEORGIAN TRADITION OF POLYPHONIC SINGING, THE GORI WOMEN’S CHOIR ARE DESCRIBED BY MELUA AS A ‘COMPLETELY UNIQUE VOCAL ORCHESTRA’. TOGETHER, THEY WILL PERFORM NEW MATERIAL FROM MELUA’S FORTHCOMING RECORDING PROJECT AS WELL AS A SELECTION OF CLASSIC SONGS FROM HER SIX-ALBUM CATALOGUE. ON HER OFFICIAL SITE KATIE MELUA WRITES: “THE LAST 18 MONTHS OF WORKING WITH THE GORI WOMEN’S CHOIR IN GEORGIA HAS BEEN SO INSPIRING. I AM IMMENSELY LOOKING FORWARD TO PERFORMING WITH THEM ACROSS THE UK AND EUROPE THIS WINTER.” TEONA TSIRAMUA DOES NOT SAY A LOT ABOUT THE JOINT PROJECT WITH THE HIGH-PROFILE SINGER, BUT FOCUSES ON THE FACT THE CHOIR IS WORKING REALLY HARD AND GETTING READY FOR FUTURE ACHIEVEMENTS. 32

TEONA, I HADN’T HEARD MUCH ABOUT THE GORI WOMEN’S CHOIR AND NOT LONG AGO I LOOKED UP SOME OF YOUR VIDEOS ON YOUTUBE. I WAS TOTALLY AMAZED… PLEASE, TELL ME ABOUT THE CHOIR AND HOW YOU ALL MANAGE TO MAKE SUCH MIRACLES ON STAGE. The history of the Gori Women’s Choir dates back to 1970, when it was established on the basis of Gori’s School of Music by Maestro Shalva Mosidze and Alexander Kacharava, the director of the school in that period. Thanks to this tandem, the Choir became popular for its extraordinary sonority and temperament. In addition, the Choir has taken part in various musical festivals and tours. Regarding your question about “miracles,” I only try to express what I feel inside- it happens naturally and afterwards audiences and people in general feel and praise it.

WHAT IS YOUR PROFESSIONAL BACKGROUND? I graduated the faculty of choir and conducting at the Georgian Conservatory. My master was Shalva Mosidze, who showed and taught me how to treat and feel music. After I got my Master’s degree, he took me to Gori as a so-called “assistant conductor.” I had rehearsals once a week and also sang in the choir and conducted various concerts from time to time. In 2010 our Choir took part in the international festival and competition of choirs “Tonen 2000’’ in Holland, where I had to create the main program in just in a month and a half. The Choir performed a very complicated repertoire with great success and returned to Georgia with three prizes. Afterwards, as a result of generational changes, I was appointed as the Chief Conductor of the Choir in 2013.

IS IT HARD TO LEAD THE CHOIR? Yes, it is really hard, but somehow I manage to cope with it. First of all, I focus on setting discipline, which is one of the most important things. Maybe it sounds a bit odd, but I always tell my musicians that first comes discipline and then music… After becoming head of the Choir, I also had to deal with financial issues and it’s a lot of responsibility, but I’m surrounded by very good and helpful people in the Choir and I want to express my gratitude to all of them for their support. When the city of Gori is mentioned, what first comes to most people’s minds is Stalin. Perhaps from now on your choir will be the first to remind people of Gori. How do you describe the city and what is its main charm? I’m from Tbilisi and my roots lay in my beloved Samegrelo, but I’ve lived in Gori for 13 years and I feel very comfortable here, very at home, mostly thanks to the people I know and work

with. In short, I love Gori and it’s a city of grand culture – the first dramatic theater was established here and also some outstanding public figures: Iakob Gogebashvili, Ekaterine Gabashvili, Merab Mamardashvili, Sulkhan Tsintsadze, Alex Matchavariani and many others come from these roots. Me and my choir serve a great and difficult art form and it’s one of our missions to be part of the cultural life here and attract local people to the majestic world of art. DESCRIBE YOUR TYPICAL DAY. Every day for me begins and ends with music. But, in general, I’m fond of being at home alone to create my own comfort by drinking tea, listening to music, reading a book and imagining; or by whirling in a kitchen - unfortunately, these things happen really very seldomly. I also love nature, the village and working on the land.

WHICH MELODY COULD BE A SOUNDTRACK FOR YOUR LIFE?

WHAT INSPIRES YOU MOST IN YOUR LIFE?

It’s difficult to give a concrete answer as lots of melodies are playing in my head and I think every day runs with its individual soundtrack, but I’d say “Choral” by I. Kechakmadze. As if the shortness of life is hidden in the smallness of this musical piece. And this choral piece is so beautiful and sorrowful, as life is, in general…

M U S I C! HOW IS COLLABORATION WITH KATIE MELUA GOING? We’re right in the middle of it and doing fantastically. I promise our audience that this remarkable project will remain forever in their memories. Apart from this, I wish to do my very best to make interesting plans for the future and to be popular not only in Georgia, but beyond its borders as well. I just hope we deserve it…

MADE IN GEORGIA! Innovative Devices on the Global Market

Fotorator is a completely new device which appeared in the startup ecosystem not so long ago. Belonging to young and motivated entrepreneur Gabriel Meliva, Fotorator allows users to print photos easily from their mobile phones. The device is innovative since users of Fotorator can print photos uploaded to Instagram as well as transfer and print files using Bluetooth. Fotorator kiosks will be located in active touristic zones since statistically people take more photos in such places. Fotorator is patented and currently costs 6,000 USD. Fotorator has been already been

purchased in Saudi Arabia, Spain, and Russia. Other European countries are also interested in this device and negotiations are underway. Gabriel Meliva is also the founder of another startup â&#x20AC;&#x153;Memogram,â&#x20AC;? a photo device created to print photos from Instagram and usually rented by various organizations. This device is handy as you need only to add #hashtag to a photo on Instagram and it will automatically be printed in your selected format.

Gabriel Meliva 37

CULINARIA

Georgian Summer Menu

TEXT: DALI TSATAVA PHOTO: ANA BOKO www.gastroguide.borjomi.com In the global gastronomic culture, the Caucasus is known as a “culinary pot” where Georgian cuisine has a special place. Even in Soviet times, Georgian food was regarded as an elite cuisine. No one argues this today, despite the fact that Georgian cuisine has not been modernized and developed as well as it could in recent times. Yet, it still remains a remedy for satisfying hedonistic aspirations. Georgian cuisine suits a variety of tastes and has something to offer vegans, vegetarians, people of different confessions, and gourmands. One can take gastronomic delights from Georgian brand food: Khachapuri, Satsivi, Khinkali and many others, all through the year. This principle of seasonal dining is impaired worldwide, but in ancient Georgia it was a very important thing. Based on different studies, scientists assert that Mankind has been eating seasonally since the very beginning of existence. The special foodstuffs of different dishes become more intense according to the seasons. People used to eat according to the rhythm of nature and this was the basis of keeping strong health.

You will not find brand ham from Racha, (a Georgian “colleague” of gammon) if it is not a special order, Megrelian Kupati, Kharcho with walnuts or Satsivi of turkey in the summer, as Georgians knew well even in ancient times that such food makes your body unhealthily “hot” and so in the high season instead ate soft and refreshing food. Georgia’s climatic conditions and its biological diversity give us an opportunity to have special authentic tastes every season. This luxury is also accompanied with wine, as Georgia is the cradle of the craft. The main features of Georgian cuisine can be found in its versatility and distinguishability in the regions, but they also have much in common. We all like vegetables and no one can imagine a Georgian feast without greens and different sorts of cheese. But, in general, we are regarded as meat-lovers.

I want to focus on coriander, which is one of the most important greens here in every season and especially in the summertime when markets and other gastronomy shops become enlivened with fresh dark green coriander, striped mint, vivid green tarragon and green and rosy-leg spinach, saying nothing of the popular leek, nettle and allium. Just imagine, it is possible to prepare dishes from all the above-mentioned greens, but coriander is added everywhere and brings such a special aroma. Greens from Western Georgia, and more concretely from Kutaisi, are regarded as the best. Four new geographical markings have been created in the scopes of the ENPARD (European Neighborhood Programme for Agriculture and Rural Developments), and greens from Kutaisi has an honored place along with potatoes from Akhalkalaki, Tkibuli tea and Machakhela honey. Geographical marking is the name of a geographical area used in order to highlight those products which are directly connected with unique natural conditions, such as soil, water, traditional production methods, etc. Why did I mention these? Because on hot summer days these products are wholesome, ecologically clean, and light. Chopped and minced vegetables (pkhali) is one

of the extravaganzas of Georgian cuisine, in addition it is a nice aperitif and very healthy if you pair it with Rkatsiteli wine in Eastern Georgia and Tsolikouri in the west. The first dish that appears in Kakheti in the spring after Orthodox Lent is Chakapuli. In this period mint becomes awesome in aroma, cherry plum begins to blossom, new garlic gets darker and each of the above, with coriander and other greens, “accompany” veal or lamb while boiling. It is a real symphony, where each “instrument” plays its specific role and all together create a wonderful harmony. Greens and vegetables perfectly pair with pastry, dairy products or chicken in the summertime. There are also several variations of preparing nettle, for example minced and chopped nettle with walnuts or oil, nettle with Matsoni (Georgian yoghurt) and coriander. Also scrumptious chopped leeks that, aside from walnuts, can be enjoyed with Tkemali sauce, fresh coriander and dressed with roasted nuts from Guria. It is also possible to use almonds, sunflower or sesame seeds instead of nuts.

Eggplant with walnuts is such an important dish of Georgian cuisine that it can be served in every season. Isrim-makvali (unripe grape and blackberry sauce)… I say these words and all my sensory organs ignite. It is a very distinguished sauce and I don’t know if it has an analogue in any other country. Juice of unripe grape is mixed with blackberry sap in Imereti and one also adds there crushed fresh garlic, fennel, coriander leaves and seeds, sometimes hot pepper and salt. This extraordinary sauce is truly fit for a king! We should not forget about sorrel, which grows in every region, but which people prepare in their own way in the different corners of Georgia. Sorrel soup is very wholesome and is often served in the summer when human bodies crave moisture. Sorrel with different greens and Georgian Matsoni, in partnership with warm cornbread or bread, is a true delight.

Mint is regarded as a refreshing plant and according to legend, once there was a governor of a subterranean kingdom who had a lover. The wife of the governor used magic to turn her into a gentle and aromatic mint plant, which in Georgian cuisine is often used to aromatize different dishes. One of these dishes is Megrelian Gebzhalia. “Bzha” wich in Megrelian means milk and sun. The main component of Gebzhalia is new cheese and, while rolling, it is filled with crushed mint, fresh coriander, garlic, salt and green, hot pepper and afterwards it is put into sauce of milk and Matsoni, aromatized with mint. In Samegrelo it is usually served with hot millet and is considered the dish of the Gods. Gebzhalia is regarded as a summer dish because it is light and refreshing. I also want to mention the summer dish “Dzrdz” – Matsoni dressed with various greens and mint.. Another version is Matsoni with Ajika sauce, served by Abkhazian nobles with boiled goat.

Georgian summer salad with cucumbers, tomatoes, onion, basil and other greens is a very popular and refreshing dish. In Imereti, this salad is often served with vinegar, in Guria with walnuts or nuts, while Kakhetians prefer this salad with natural sunflower oil, traditional “Mother’s bread” and Guda cheese.

Georgians love everything provided by their mother nature and the rest is just creativity and taste. For example, the mushrooms Nikvi, Qama and Manchkvala are one of the gourmet dishes of spring and summer and wonderfully pair with the Imeretian wine Tsolikouri.

On the subject of Imereti, it is impossible not to mention chicken in garlic sauce, cornbread cooked in an earthenware frying-pan and kneaded beans in an earthenware pot which has a distinguished and authentic taste only in Imereti.

Most Georgian families know the smell of roasted vegetables in the summertime and it is because of Ajapsandali, a kind of Ratatouille. This is a remarkable combination of tomatoes, eggplants, Bulgarian pepper, potatoes and lots of greens fried in oil which can be served warm or cold.

Actually, Imereti, with its wonderful city Kutaisi, is one of the hearts of Georgian gastronomic culture. Kutaisi was also mentioned in the chronicles of Apollonius of Rhodes as a regional center and one of the parts of the Silk Road. Thanks to it, Imereti has much developed and refined its gastronomical features, for example with unique and aromatic spices.

The main components of the summer menu include fresh and cold dishes, but it doesn’t mean that Kakhetians all summer long only eat greens and vegetables. Cold boiled hen is a very popular dish, as well as Kakhetian barbeque with “Mother’s bread,” as lovely as a mother and baked in the Georgian traditional stone oven (tone).

Khashlama, one of the brands of Georgian cuisine, is for the summer season too, as well as Kakhetian Tolma wrapped in a vine leaf, in combination with Wine from Qvevri clay vessel which wine which is included in UNESCO’s intelligible cultural heritage list, and delicious dessert Tatara or Kakhetian grape and peach. When it’s hot, everyone wants to escape the high temperatures by heading to the sea and if you’re a gourmand, or just interested in gastronomic delights, Adjara is the right destination for you. This region has much to offer you, the awesome mix of high mountains and sea climate create gentle and healthy aromas. That’s why on hot summer days Adjarian Khachapuri tastes so marvelous. A very popular dish: dough kneaded in milk and then shaped like a boat and filled with new cheese and an egg as a symbol of the sun. Borano is also a very interesting and scrumptious dish made of skimmed and whittled cheese. Goatfish, crab and other seafood are more than appetizing here… Influenced by the neighboring countries, there are lots of vege-

table dishes in Adjara and the sweet Baklava. This region is also home to the eastern dish Chanakhi, made in a clay pot with meat, sweet pepper, tomatoes and eggplants. As you see, in our versatile homeland food is diverse and some of it is so unique, that it can be served anytime, in every season. This refers to Khinkali - belonging to the mountainous regions of Georgia: Tusheti, Pshavi and Khevsureti. Pastry with different fillings, such as Megrelian and Imeretian Khachapuri (cheese) and Lobiani (with beans) have no seasons, like the Megrelian Elarji, and Chvishtari and Shkmeruli from Racha. Bread is the most significant food in Georgia - an essential part of any feast in every season and coming in diverse varieties according to region. As in many other countries, food is not only vitally important for health, but it is also a kind of ritual and an expression of gratitude to God.

Your Wine Experience and Memories for a Lifetime! If you are a wine enthusiast, a couple looking for a romantic getaway, or a group in search of outdoor adventure, this is the best place to go! Château Mukhrani is one of the must-visit venues to get a fascinating insight into the traditions and secrets of Georgian wine-making, blended with remarkable stories about the Georgian royal family. Situated 25 minutes from Tbilisi it is the first Georgian Château. Fabulous castle and cellars, wonderful gardens and vineyards made Chateau Mukhrani world-renowned.

Wine Tour Highlights

Extra Special Services

Chateau Mukhrani Events

• Visit the royal castle, garden and unique cellars • Learn about the history of the Georgian Royal family Estate • Discover the Chateau’s art of winemaking • Stroll through the vineyards • Visit the Winery • Taste a range of local dishes in our restaurant “Samepo Marani 1878”.

• • • • • •

Chateau Mukhrani is providing the full management of the events. We offer a variety of options tailored to any gathering:

Culinary Master Classes Churchkhela making Bread baking in traditional clay oven Chacha distillation Khinkali making Riding tours on English and Arabian horses.

This is a Place You Should Visit!

• Weddings and other private parties • Business meetings • Corporate and MICE events.

Reservations: Tel.: +995 595 99 13 14/15/16; | E-mail: 1878@mukhrani.com

www.chateaumukhrani.com

PERSONA

KARLO KACHARAVA 1964 -1994 By the 1980-90s Karlo Kacharava had become a kind of medium connecting Georgian culture and art-workers with the Western artistic world. He was a painter, poet and theorist, both an art expert and a philosopher at the same time. This multisided person tried to control art processes and happenings taking place around him. Despite his short life, Karlo Kacharava made a large contribution to Georgian art through his paintings and theoretical works.

P.S.FOR MAJOR, OIL 1992 YEAR,100x100cm

FOR HELENA, OIL, 1988 YEAR,

FRANZ KAFKA, watercolor, paper 1990 YEAR, 13,5x43,5cm

MAJOR

DIARY

New Year, Fragment.

Cultural Events

Fest i Nova 2016 “FUTURE MEMORY”

Line Up

Fest I Nova, the International Festival of Contemporary Art in Honor of the Zdanevich Brothers in Garikula village, Kaspi, will be held this year for the eighth time. In 2016 approximately 30 Georgian and foreign artists will work on a theme of researching memory.

gathering places of the village and try to convert them into some kind of art scene.

Fest I Nova Garikula 2016 will go beyond the boundaries of the Bolgarsky Palace to encompass all the public spaces of Akhalakalki village. Festival participants, both local and international artists, will bring back to life the old

The festival opens on 29th of May in Tsereteli’s Palace and will go on until October 8th.

By taking art to public spaces and involving the local population, the art goes further and raises critical questions.

For additional information, please visit Garikula’s website www.garikula.com or check out its Facebook page.

TBILISI OPEN AIR 2016 Number one check in destination in the South Caucasus region On July 29th, 30th, 31st, a new location, Lisi Wonderland will host the annual, international music festival, Tbilisi Open Air 2016. Tbilisi Open Air 2016 is a three-day, nonstop musical event, with four stages and the world-wide musicians. Fusion of sounds, freedom of choice, great atmosphere, positive and active people – this is Tbilisi Open Air. Music Breaks Free! visit: www.tbilisiopenair.ge; www.facebook.com/tbilisiopenair

TBC STATUS PRESENTS THE 10TH BLACK SEA

JAZZ FESTIVAL

The Festival will take place in Batumi Tennis Club area from the 15th to 24th of July. Black Sea Jazz Festival is organized by Eastern Promotion and will be held within the framework of the project “Check in Georgia”. The Jazz Festival 2016 participants are: QUINCY JONES & THE GLOBAL GUMBO ALL STARTS, JAMIE CULLUM, MACY GREY, THE PRODIGY, Ms. LAURYN HILL, MILES ELECTRIC BAND, NIK WEST AND CHRIS BROWN. Herewith, within the festival, at the club “Take Five” Macy Grey DJ SET will be presented. It should be noted that except paid tickets, Batumi citizens and guests will have a chance to attend “BRASS BAND”‘s concerts and to listen live music totally for free that will take place in Batumi Boulevard during the day. BLACK SEA JAZZ FESTIVAL CALENDAR • • • • • • •

July 15, 20:00 – Batumi Tennis Club in Batumi, QUINCY JONES & THE GLOBAL GUMBO ALL STARTS, (feat. RICHARD BONA, ALFREDO RODRI GUEZ, JACOB COLLIER) July 16, 20:00 – Batumi Tennis Club in Batumi, MILES ELECTRIC BAND July 17, 20:00 – Batumi Tennis Club in Batumi, Ms. LAURYN HILL July 21, 20:00 – Batumi Tennis Club in Batumi, THE PRODIGY July 22, 20:00 – Batumi Tennis Club in Batumi, JAMIE CULLUM July 23, 20:00 – Batumi Tennis Club in Batumi, CHRIS BROWN July 24, 20:00 – Batumi Tennis Club in Batumi, MACY GREY

SUPPORTERS • •

The Ministry of Culture and Monument Protection of Georgia; Ministry of Culture, Education and Sports of the Autonomous Republic of Adjara;

Tickets are available from 11th of May through the web-site www.tkt.ge Concert tickets TBC Platinum, TBC PrimeCard and TBC Status Card at an exclusive price. For additional information you can visit festival official web-site: www.batumijazz.ge or call: 2 99 05 99

4GB 4GB is the annual electronic music festival in Georgia organized since 2011. It is a tribute to our dear friend and a pioneer Georgian DJ - Gio Bakanidze. With the support of partner companies, Gio’s friends are doing their best to make the festival unforgettable from year to year. 4GB has a non-profit structure and all the income goes to the development of the idea and festival. 4GB 2016 Line Up

6 May Main Stage: Prins Thomas KiNK (Live) Lawrence Red Bull Music Academy Stage: Greenbeam & Leon Jeff Mills Cosmin TRG 7 May Day Time Stage: Gio Shengelia Rezo Glonti (Live) Gacha (Live) Kӣr (Live) Vincent Volt (Live) Cobert (Live) Bacho 3 Suli (Live) Ericsson b2b Nika J Main Stage: Tomma Matthew Herbert Basic Soul Unit (Live) Jan Nemecek (Live) Bero Red Bull Music Academy Stage: Kancheli & NDRX Luke Slater Sebastian Mullaert b2b Ulf Eriksson 8 May Day Time Stage: Ash Jonathan Kaspar Vakho b2b Zurkin Tama Sumo b2b Lakuti Main Stage: Tobias Thomas BarntReinhard Voigt (Live) Michael Mayer

PHOTO: LIKA CHKUASELI

UNSOUND DISLOCATION LINEUPS ANNOUNCED FOR BISHKEK, BATUMI AND NEW YORK INCLUDING COMMISSIONED PROJECT WITH MORITZ VON OSWALD AND KYRGYZ MUSICIANS UNS_Poster_Batumi_03.pdf

27/04/16

16:58

Unsound recently announced its Dislocation project/theme for 2016 and 2017, which begins in Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan, Batumi in Georgia and New York. In Bishkek it took place on May 20th - 22nd, where legendary dub techno pioneer Moritz von Oswald collaborated with Ordo Sakhna, linking experimental and electronic sounds with traditional Kyrgyz instruments.

Goethe-Institut Tbilisi. As a Dislocation event, Unsound’s New York actions are more compact than in previous years, but mark the importance of New York in Unsound’s development and expanding network, involving collaboration with three of our closest partners. C

CMY

The Bishkek program includes another collaboration called Glacier Music between Robert Lippok, visual artist Lillevan and Bishkek’s Askat Jetigen, as well as Monolake Surround and Hamburg’s Helena Hauff. Also the line up features Poland’s Jacek Sienkiewicz, RSS B0YS, Wilhelm Bras and Kucharczyk, Almaty’s DJ Nazira and Bishkek-based Zack, PizOne, GraFF and broxxz. Batumi events took place from May 27th - 29th, featuring the first live performance of the collaboration between Germany’s AGF and Tbilisi’s Natalie Beridze aka TBA, Berlin-based producers Lotic and MESH, Nina from Hamburg’s Golden Pudel, Unsound Krakow residents DJ Olivia and Chino, as well as a spectrum of Georgian electronic musicians including Aux Field, Jorjick, Nika J live and Severiane. This event is presented was presented by 54

Lincoln Center will present a double-bill at the David Rubenstein Atrium on Thursday June 16, with Elysia Crampton presenting the New York premiere of a work that is part theatre and part live music performance called Dissolution of The Sovereign - A Time Slide Into The Future. Alessandro Cortini - best known for working with Nine Inch Nails - will follow with his modular synth work SONNOS. Admission is free of charge. The Bunker X Unsound will take place on June 17, with Sustain-Release X Unsound on June 18 - the lineups will be released soon. Remember Dislocation is the theme for Unsound Krakow this year, and that further events will take place in cities across Russia, Belarus, Ukraine, Central Asia and the Caucasus in 2016/2017, involving special collaborations and commissioned projects.

The capital of Georgia, TBILISI HOSTED THE FIRST INTERNATIONAL MAP THE MUSIC FESTIVAL

on May 5-8. It is a unique project in general, where the world of academic music and the explorations of new original formats collide. Map the Music is a ground breaking festival concept conceived by cellist Boris Andrianov and his friends: businessman IIya Levitov, vocalist and cellist Georgiy Yufa and LavkaLavka marketing director Maria Zhilina. The organizers of the festival in Georgia were Tusi Chogovadze and David Sakvarelidze. There are many small and big music festivals worldwide. Many of them have permanent residencies and many are distinguished by outstanding musicians. But, Map the Music is principally different from a regular festival format in many aspects: concerts are held for several times a year in different corners of the world, musicians play in the open air and an audience travel together with performers. Most importantly, concert venues are situated in popular tourist areas and can emerge in the most unexpected places - from Montenegro grottoes and castles in the Loire Valley to Norwegian fjords and the Pacific coast, at the edge of the world, near Murmansk, or on the coast of the Arctic Ocean. This extraordinary project was inspired by an eager search for new forms of academic music. In the minds of Map the Music festival organisers, music is suffocating inside concert

halls, preserving its appeal and significance only for a small group of admirers. Experience shows that open air concerts in unusual places change the perception of music, provoke new impressions and audiences grow larger. Moreover, Map the Music is a highly democratic project which grants the general public masterpieces of world music performed by the most outstanding soloists and music ensembles. Map the Music shares a new view on travelling as well, offering a more appealing and meaningful alternative to generic tours. The projectâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leaders and masterminds have emphasised that they would not sacrifice quality over adventures. Map the Music is an international project, putting together winners of the biggest competitions, renowned award winners, worldclass soloists and orchestras. Although academic music is chosen as the main music genre of the festival, the organisers are ready for experiments and collaborations with other musical formats, as well as other art forms. Tbilisi was chosen as the first stop for the Map the Music project. Georgia is a country of great musical traditions (and traditions of hospitality), and Tbilisi isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t only the capital of the country, but is the cultural centre, where modernity organically coincides with an atmosphere of ancient times.

ORGANIZERS: Tusi Chogovadze - festival organizer David Sakvarelidze - festival organizer Nastya Bezrukova - festival organizer Matsatso Tchincharauli - festival promotion Tatiana An - festival promotion

Map the Music Festival 2016 featured: Boris Andrianov (cello, Russia) Andrey Baranov (violin, Russia) Gerhard Marschner (viola, Austria) Dmitry Illarionov (guitar, Russia) Dmitry Bulgakov (oboe, Russia) Stefan Vladar (piano, Austria)

mapthemusicfest.com

SOU FESTIVAL 18-28 MAY SOU stands for Stream of Unconsciousness – a festival of contemporary music and visual arts that will take place yearly in Georgia. SOU FESTIVAL is a new audiovisual platform that will present topical and experimental creations of our time at the cultural crossroads of East and West. It will host musicians and artists whose works have greatly influenced the formation and establishment of contemporary music. SOU FESTIVAL 2016 will take place in five different locations in Tbilisi. In the framework of the festival, we will present RASTER-NOTON’s official showcase in Georgia on the 18th, 19th and 21st of May. On the 23rd of May, American musician RAFAEL ANTON IRISSARI will perform his latest composition ‘A FRAGILE GEOGRAPHY’ at the Saints Peter and Paul Catholic Church. On May 26th, a concert of legendary German musician BLIXA BARGELD and TEHO TEARDO will be held at the Tbilisi Concert Hall. On the 28th, the Japanese techno scene will take over Tbilisi’s Archaeological Reserve.

PHOTO: MARIAM JANASHIA

TRAVEL

ENJOYABLE AND STRIKING HORSEBACK Tours in Tbilisi Surroundings TEXT: DIMITRI KARGARETELI

From time to time it is important to escape the hustle and bustle of urban city life and listen to the different sounds of nature, breathe fresh air, or just enjoy the pleasant atmosphere. So, if you think that your life batteries need to be charged and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for something special, why donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t you plan a horseback tour which is available at any time of the year? Summer is certainly one of the best periods for making such trips. There is a base situated in the mountain landscape of the unmatched beauty at Trialeti Ridge, in the village of Ghvevi, and people working at this base are real professionals of organizing exciting trips. Horses there are well-trained and equipped with a wide range of saddles, helmets and saddlebags. There are forested mountains around, majestically beautiful views, lush vegetation laden with berries and mushrooms, rare species of plants and wild birds and animals. Trips usually take approximately 2-3 hours and can also last for several days in order to view beautiful sites: Didgori Valley, Betania, Birtvisi, Rkoni, Kldekari and Tabatskuri Lake. Tours envisage strolls along wooded paths climbing up to picturesque hills or leading down to a zigzag pattern of rivers and springs in gorges. It is possible to arrange food tours as well and have refreshing stops in beautiful places.

Even just a one-hour trip from Tbilisi wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be a waste of time if you love great views. This route from Tbilisi to Tsalka will take you through gorgeous mountain scenery, which opens up panoramic views and serpentine pathways. Moreover, the last 20 minutes of the drive is something that amounts to a thrilling Jeep-Trophy experience. These tours are for enamored couples, families with kids, teams typically comprised of 10-12 people and all those who are eager to combine the joys of wild nature, fresh air and tranquility with the benefits of physical exercise. It is highly recommended to give preference to protective clothing, especially boots which prevent your feet from getting hurt with sharp thorns and branches. Do not wear a rucksack while horse riding as it may weigh heavily on your shoulders- rely on our saddlebags to keep everything in place. So, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss the chance to plan your exotic Georgian adventure! For more details you can check out Ghvevi Horse Riding on Facebook, or visit www.horseriding.ge

MOUNTAINOUS ADJARA

FRESH AIR, PICTURESQUE LANDSCAPES, HOSPITABLE INHABITANTS AND A PLETHORA OF TRADITIONS – THAT’S A SHORT LIST OF WHAT CAN BE EXPECTED IN THE ADJARA MOUNTAINS. THE AVERAGE HEIGHT OF MOUNTAINS IN ADJARA IS 2000-2500 METERS, WITH THE HIGHEST– THE KANLIDAGHI -LOCATED AT 3,007 METERS ABOVE SEA LEVEL. HERE, GODERDZI PASS CAN ALSO BE FOUND (2025 METERS) ON THE MAIN BATUMI –AKHALTSIKHE ROAD. WHILE EXPLORING THIS ROUTE YOU WILL BE ABLE TO CATCH A GLIMPSE OF THE MAGNIFICENT LANDSCAPES AND BREATHE FRESH ALPEN AIR.

WHAT TO SEE IN KHULO Khulo is a very beautiful village which is also home to lots of castles. 7km from Khulo, in the village of Uchkho, one can see an arched bridge dating back to the XI – XII centuries. There is also the Local Lore Museum in Khulo with a selection of 745 exponents. Beshumi is one of the most famous summer resorts there, surrounded by sub-alpine forests, with astonishingly fresh air and a high level of ionization. The resort welcomes its guests from June to September. Tourists can enjoy their stay in comfortable cottages and attend the traditional celebration “Shuamtoba” in the middle of August. The celebration lineup also includes a horse-race. Goderdzi Pass is one of Khulo’s resorts offering a variety of fascinating activities: hiking in the mountains and forests, riding bicycles, flying with paraplanes, tasting mineral waters, and a visit to the “Bear Reservation.” Those who are more interested in exotic nature can visit the beautiful green lake located between looming mountains: the sight of the transparent water reflecting the mountain range is impressive and great for chilling out.

WHAT TO SEE IN KHELVACHAURI Khelvachauri is a mountainous location in the southern part of the Machakhela gorge where the border divides Georgia and Turkey. The gorge consists of several large and many small villages, including: Gvara, Kedkedi, Adjarisaghmarti, Tskhemrala, Chkhutuneti, Chikuneti, Sindieti, Saputkreti, Gorgadzeti and Vake. There are various historical-cultural heritage sites: castles, churches, winepresses and cellars, and water fountains built in stone. This gorge is particularly famous for its stone arched bridges of varying sizes, the largest being Khemlari bridge with a length of 25 meters and width of 2 meters. Tourists can explore these fascinating sites and see some castles: Korolistvali, Chkhutuneti, and Gvara, and visit the Transfiguration Church in Akhalsheni village. There is also the Machakhela Ethnographic Museum located in the former Mosque and the Lazian Ethnographic Museum which displays a selection of ancient Kolkhian and Lazian items.

WHAT TO SEE IN SHUAKHEVI Shuakhevi is rich in fossils and mineral waters. The rivers are abundant in fish; the forests heavy with wild fruits and healing plants. It is recommended to visit Nigazeuli fortress- located at 800 meters above sea level in the village of the same name- as well as Kiviani castle in Khichauri village, which dates back to the XIII century, and Otolta and Chanchalo castles. Gomarduli village belongs to the Shuakhevi Municipality and is located 74 km from Batumi. It is possible to arrange some interesting activities there: hiking, horse-riding, rock climbing, camping and more. 61

SIGHNAGHI With good touristic infrastructure, comfy hotels and cozy restaurants oriented to gourmet family food, Sighnaghi is a wonderful place to spend the weekend. The city has kept its authentic historical and architectural look- narrow and cobbled streets follow a slope and houses are located on terraces. House roofs dating back to the XIX century also add special charm to the city. Sighnaghi is one of Georgia’s smallest and most beautiful tourist centers. With a population of approximately 2,000 people, the city and its surroundings are picturesque with their stunning landscapes, historical monuments, wine cellars and the Ethnographic Museum. One of Sighnaghi’s best-loved features is the longest fortress-wall in Georgia (4.5 km long), which harmonically blends in with the urban space. Sighnaghi fortress is the biggest among historical buildings of Georgia, spread across 40 hectares in an uneven location, following as it does the mountain relief, before slipping down into a deep ravine. In historical sources Sighnaghi as a town first appears in accounts of the XVIII century. Before this, the territory was known as Kambechovani and later Kiziki. There was no serfdom in Kiziki and people subordinated only to a king. It is very interesting to visit St. Stephan’s church (1762) in Sighnaghi,built into the tallest tower of the wall, from which you can enjoy a splendid view of the city and Alazani Valley. In

Sighnaghi’s Archeological-Ethnographic Museum, located at # 8 Rustaveli Cul-de-Sac, you can check out paintings of the world-famous Georgian primitivist painter Niko Pirosmani. The artist was from Kakheti and his art, especially in its first phase, was inspired by the region. At different times the same museum has hosted exhibitions of Pablo Picasso, John Wurdeman and Lado Gudiashvili. And don’t miss a chance to visit Sighnaghi’s Wedding House, a beautiful architectural monument which was built in the XIX century. Sighnaghi is also home to various folk festivals throughout the year. There are a number of remarkable cafes and restaurants in Sighnaghi, often serving gourmet dishes made of organic products. There are also over ten hotels suitable for all types and tastes of visitors. Near Sighnaghi, in Kedeli village, you can visit the beautiful Bodbe Nunnery, where the tomb of St. Nino can be found. St. Nino, enlightener of Georgia, passed away in 338. The first church near her tomb was constructed in the IV century.

A place where time stands still! Lopota Lake Resort & Spa | Napareuli, 2200, Telavi, Georgia T. +995 322 400 400 | M. info@lopota.ge | W. Lopota.ge

OKATSE CANYON Okatse Canyon is truly one of the most magnificent and amazing places in Georgia. With breath-taking views it is practically untouched by humans, leaving you feeling pleasantly cut off as you take in its authentic beauty.

Boasting one of the highest waterfalls in Georgia, Kinchkha, the Okatse canyon natural monument in western Georgia, located near the village of Gordi, attracts numerous tourists, amazing them with the awesome wild nature. The canyon is situated in the ravine of the river Gordi, running for roughly 14 kilometres. The canyon width ranges from 3-6 to 15-20 meters, while its depth is between 20-100 meters. Visitors and tourists will also be enchanted by the size and number of waterfalls to be found; one of them, named Oskhapo, is 60 meters in height!

The Visitor Center has a 250 meter-long hanging path, as well as a 500 meter trail through the canyon and forest, a trail of two kilometers, and an observation spot with panoramic views of the entire valley. Visitors can also head up to the mountain above for even better views. There are plenty of campsites in both Kinchkha and Gordi. Gordi was once a summer residence of Megrelian nobles, the Dadianis, so there is a royal garden in Gordi which you can also pop in to. We also recommend exploring the less touristic areas of the Gordi canyons and if your interest is sparked, you might want to continue exploring in the Martvili canyons. From Tbilisi to Okatse canyon itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a 4-hour drive of 260 km. Minibuses leave daily from Didube bus terminal to Kutaisi. It takes approximately 1 hour to get from Kutaisi to Gordi, which leaves from a bus station (near McDonaldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s) and from there it is a further 4km to Kinchkha which you can walk or travel by taxi for just a few Laris. If you decide to stay, you can find hotels in both Kutaisi and Tskaltubo or stay in a local family village guesthouse.

KAZBEGI

Kazbegi region, located in northern Georgia, is named after famous Georgian writer Alexander Kazbegi, an educated person who knew languages and yet worked as a shepherd at the same time. The small town of Stepantsminda is the center of the Kazbegi region, situated along the banks of the Terek River, 157 kilometers from Tbilisi and at an elevation of 1740 meters above sea level. Stepantsmindaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s climate is moderately humid with relatively dry, cold winters and long and cool summers. There are a number of hotels in Stepantsminda with good infrastructure. Hotel administration can organize trips and camping in beautiful Truso, Sno and Khte gorges, to Juta village and hiking up to the marvelous Holy Trinity Gergeti Church, constructed in the XV century and located at the top of the Gergeti mountain. Even if you are not an enthusiastic hiker, the hike up to Gergeti Trinity church is very nice, taking about one and a half hours on a mild slope if you follow the gravel road. The view of the church and mount Kazbegi from the opposite hill is magnificent, especially at sunset.

Mount Kazbegi is one of the highest mountains (5033 m) and the seventh highest peak in the Caucasus Mountains. Kazbegi Mountain and its vertex Mkinvartsveri, translated as “glacier” or “Ice Mountain,” is an especially attractive destination for alpinists. While in Kazbegi region, you can also visit other truly awesome sites, such as: Juta village at 2150 meters above sea level - isolated from civilization but a real paradise for alpinists; Truso gorge - if you walk the route from Okrakano village along the Terek river gorge you will be sure to come across colorful mineral waters - a kind of natural decoration on the steep slopes. Other must-sees are Sno and Arshi castles and the Betlemi cave at Mkinvartsveri massif, at 4100 meters above sea level and of particular interest to history-lovers and adventurers.

In order to get a true taste of national culture and for authentic, long-lasting impressions - you should definitely venture to Georgiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highlands. Tusheti is one such region - an amazing place with snow-covered rocky peaks, deep gorges and steep, grassy hills with flocks of grazing sheep. Located on the northern slopes of the Greater Caucasus Mountains, Tusheti is bordered by Chechnya and Dagestan to the north and east and by the Georgian historic provinces Kakheti and Pshav-Khevsureti to the south. Tusheti is one of the most popular summer hiking and horse-riding areas in Georgia and an attention-grabbing destination for photographers, travelers, adventurers and ethnographers. The tourist season begins there in June and lasts till October. Afterwards, the Abano pass, located 2925 meters above sea level, is blocked and Tusheti becomes completely isolated from the outside world. Transportation to Tusheti Protected Areas is not available from Tbilisi: visitors need to come to the lower village of Alvani by minibus from the Ortachala or Navtlughi bus terminals, Another

option is to travel by taxi from metro Isani, available several times daily. Traveling from Tbilisi to lower Alvani can take approximately 1 hour 30 minutes. There is no regular transport from Alvani to Omalo and transportation is only possible by hiring a private 4x4 from Alvani center. The 85 km from Alvani to Omalo needs around 3 hours and 30 minutes. In order to make trips to Tusheti more coordinated, tourists can visit Tusheti Nature Reserve and National Park, located in the administrative building of the Protected Areas, with integrated hotel rooms for visitors, cafe and the visitor center with exhibition and conference halls, interpretation and information boards. Visitors can plan various types of sightseeing tours there and get information on existing services, such as hotels, guides and horse-riding. Tusheti Protected Areas has 11 functioning tourist routes, giving visitors the opportunity to observe and become part of the unique historical-cultural and natural landscapes of Tusheti. While planning your trip to Tusheti, you should take into consideration that you will not have access to gas stations, ATMs or shops on your way up. Also note it is a low coverage zone for mobile phones.

You can find guest-houses in many villages. 3-4 days are quite enough to visit the main landmarks of the region. Those fond of more active holidays can take a walk from Dartlo to Diklo and catch picturesque views on their way. The region is also famous for its high quality wool, from which people produce colorful textile, warm socks, hats and rugs.

Villages of Tusheti - Omalo, Shenako, Dartlo, Diklo, Dochu and others are gorgeous, with houses and fortresses built from shale with pitched roofs made of floating slates. Nowadays most of Tusheti’s population has houses around Akhmeta and Alvani in Kakheti and as traditional sheep herders, they go up to Tusheti in summertime to graze their sheep or cattle and also to host tourists in their guest-houses.

Regarding Tushetian cuisine, it is a significant business card of the region. So don’t miss the chance to taste local beer and gourmet food - Khinkali, Khachapuri, Kotori, Gordila bread and Guda cheese. On the subject of food, you should note that pork is not eaten in Tusheti. Farmers do not raise pigs and travelers are advised to not bring any pork into the region. It happens just in this region and the strange thing is that the locals do eat pork, but only when they are outside Tusheti. The national celebration of the region “Tushetoba” is held annually in Omalo in the first days of July or August. This celebration attracts lots of tourists and visitors who have an opportunity to see craft exhibitions, a horse-race, different competitions and an interesting ceremony of shepherd blessing.

BAKHMARO Bakhmaro is located in the district of Chokhatauri on the Meskheti mountain range in the Guria region. The resort is famous for its beautiful nature and magnificent views: from the top of the mountains you can see clouds below and catch a glimpse of the sea. At over 2000 meters above sea level, Bakhmaro is the highest alpine climatic resort in Georgia with a truly unique climate that blends sea and mountain air- perfect for immuno-enhancement and beneficial for people with respiratory problems. The distance from Tbilisi to Bakhmaro is around 340 km - a journey of around 4.5 hours. A well-developed 50 km regional road connects Bakhmaro to Chokhatauri and takes around 1.5 hours to cover by car. Bakhmaro is difficult to access only from November to April. Apart from a few small shops in the resort, there are no shopping opportunities, however, you can get some delicious homemade dairy products and wooden toys from local sellers. There is also a fruit & veg market. Most of the accommodation consists of simple wooden cottages, usually rented out on a weekly or seasonal basis. The single hotel there is named “Bakhmaro,” after the resort. The active season in Bakhmaro runs from June to September, when you’ll find it bustling with tourists and visitors. It is a pleasure to take a walk nearby, to pick mushrooms, to swim in the river, and to take part in the various sports activities. Apart from these entertainments, Bakhmaro has a very nice tradition whereby holiday - makers gather firewood to set bonfires on little squares, and afterwards they sit around the fire to tell stories, play and sing. On the subject of traditions, August 19 - the day of the Transfiguration of Jesus Christ - is an important holiday in Bakhmaro, where a large traditional horse race is held. This remarkable event attracts numerous visitors from the region and different corners of Georgia.