Georgia To See / Winter Issue N3

MOSAICS SERGO The Remarkable Heritage of Social Art

KOBULADZE

JAZZ Adventure

Beka Gochiashvili

KHATIA

BUNIATISHVILI

TIPS

for Visitors and Tourists

GEORGIAN GASTRONOMIC

CULTURE

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In this issue of Georgia To See we will bring you the magic of Georgia’s carpets, in which you can read the country’s ancient culture. Unlike the Eastern style, a colorful, ornamental, and expressive composition is a characteristic feature for Georgian carpets.

There is a versatile collection of carpets and shops... though flying carpets cannot be counted among the treasures for you to discover here, so expect to have to venture to Georgia’s fabulous resorts by the usual routes.

Bakuriani is one of the most beautiful resorts, with coniferous forests, ski routes, cozy guest-houses, little cafes, narrow streets with people selling honey and cone jam, the lovely “cuckoo” train and the fresh mountain air which is so beneficial to health.

The beautiful winter resort of Gudauri, located on the southern slopes of the Caucasus Mountain Range, despite being located in a high mountainous region, often experiences warm and sunny weather. The resort offers high quality skiing opportunities from December to April with the highest point for skiing 3,250 meters above sea level and the lowest 2,050 meters.

The pine forest of Abastumani will draw you into a fairy tale- it is a true delight to stroll there and catch a glimpse of the fascinating views.

The thermal waters of Abastumani are world-famous and curative for many diseases, including rheumatic, neural and dermatological problems. There is also a bath-house, dating back to the times of the Russian Kings, which is supplied with natural sulphur waters.

If you decide to stay in Tbilisi, artists and historians will offer you a special guide and a colorful collage of must-see venues throughout Georgia’s capital.

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Photo Credit:

KHATIA BUNIATISHVILI ESTHER HAASE

IRA KURMAEVA VAKHO BABUNASHVILI

TINA SHABURISHVILI

NINI PALAVANDISHVILI

redaqcia N3

MARIAM TSKITISHVILI

ISSUE #3 3

TIPS for Visitors and Tourists

Every city lives by its own individual rhythm. The doors of most public workplaces open at 09.00 am and urban noise quits after midnight in Tbilisi, after which public transport also sleeps and people can only travel by taxi.

The most distinctive districts are located in Tbilisi’s southern part, around Freedom Square. These must-sees with narrow blind alleys and nice views, belong to the Old Town.

The population of Tbilisi increased when many displaced people moved here as a result of armed conflicts in the 1990s.

Consequently, unemployment and lack of stable work are big problems for Georgia’s capital.

Georgians greet each other with a kiss and usually use the words: rogora khar? (how are you?) It’s also perfectly acceptable to express your positive attitude just by shaking hands.

words

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TRY TO KEEP THESE THREE WORDS IN MIND: •

“GAMARJOBA” (HELLO),

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“MADLOBA” (THANK YOU) AND

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“NAKHVAMDIS” (GOOD-BYE).

Georgians will be very pleased to hear these words.

If you want to ask something in the street, it is better to address a young person - it is more likely he will understand your question. Middle-aged people would be also helpful, but they rarely speak English.

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There are some English-language newspapers published in Georgia which are available in press-kiosks throughout the city.

Tbilisi is the only city in the Caucasus where a Mosque, a Synagogue and Catholic and Orthodox Christian churches are located together in one district. Tbilisi’s population is multiethnic; consisting of Georgians, Armenians, Jews, Azeris and Greeks.

There are many Orthodox Christian churches in Georgia. Men should enter without hats and women should cover their hair and not wear too ‘open’ clothing.

Ancient buildings make a contrasting blend with Soviet architecture in Tbilisi.

There are various hostels, guest-houses and chic hotels in the central and historical districts in Georgia’s capital. In order to get information about this and other issues, you can head to the information Center located in Pushkin Garden on Freedom Square.

There are a lot of resorts on the coast and in the mountains, but few two and three-star hotels. If you find a hotel expensive, you can rent a flat and easily negotiate the price.

Tbilisi’s nightlife is not very intensive. But still clubbing-connoisseurs and culture-vultures can visit trendy and cozy café-restaurants, modern night clubs and enjoy live music performances in the Old Town - at Bambis Rigi, Shardeni, Erekle II and Leselidze streets.

TRAFFIC

SECURITY It is prohibited to keep, sell and consume drugs in Georgia.

Smoking marihuana is also a crime, punishable with several years of imprisonment. Avoid strangers offering to sell you drugs.

There are various money exchange points in Georgia’s capital, but when you have to exchange a large amount of money, it is safer to do so in a bank.

There are several police-stations in each district. But still, avoid walking alone in the dark. In an emergency situation call 112 from a city or cell phone.

Watch out for your bags and cameras. Don’t leave them unattended.

Watch out for your wallets and documents, especially in crowded places. Keep them in inner and fully zipped pockets. Only carry around as much money as you need for that day, no more. Leave valuables that you aren’t going to use on the day in the hotel safe.

Traffic is more intense from around 5.00 pm to 7 pm in Tbilisi. It is common to give up your seat to little children and elderly people in public transport.

There are electronic bus timetables at all bus-stops, which show the exact time of a bus arrival in Georgian and English. Tickets should be bought on boarding a bus and cost 50 Tetri. In minibuses passengers pay only before getting out.

Tbilisi minibuses (so-called marshutka) are yellow and a passenger can stop one whenever he wants, excluding Freedom Square, and Rustaveli and Chavchavadze avenues – where they only can be stopped at bus-stops. Price - 80 Tetri, in some districts – 40 Tetri.

Minibuses are often busy and some passengers travel standing. Even if the minibus is full, a driver will still likely stop for you if you wave your hand. Then it is up to you whether you want to squeeze in or not.

The Tbilisi Metro has 21 stations and one transfer line from Station Square to Saburtalo line. The Metro is open from 6.00 am to 12.00 pm. You should purchase special plastic cards for traveling by underground. These cards are on sale at station kiosks and cost 2 GEL whilst journeys themselves – 50 Tetri.

Traveling by taxi –the fastest over ground transport in Tbilisi – is pretty common here. A cab can be taken/called up easily everywhere. If you grab a taxi in the street, it is better to negotiate the price beforehand with the driver as foreign tourists sometimes get told double the real price.

Taxis are not expensive here. For example: 2 GEL is the acceptable price to ride from Freedom Square - to Metechi Bridge by cab.

In case of you lose your plane tickets, credit cards or other documents, immediately contact the police (112). You should make copies of your documents prior to your arrival in Georgia, just in case.

Despite the number of cyclists increasing rapidly, there are no special bike-lanes for bicycles and drivers tend to be dispassionate to cyclists.

It is not common in Georgia to travel by hitch-hiking, but if you still come across this, before taking a seat make sure it is safe, even with Georgians who are open and hospitable.

Tbilisi International Airport is located 20 km from the center of Tbilisi. It is possible to get there by taxi (15-20 GEL) as well as by public transport which works from 08.00 to 20.00. Travel cost: 50 Tetri.

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FOOD At restaurants you can taste the pearls of Georgian cuisine – khachapuri (cheese bread) and khinkali (dumplings), both of which should be eaten by hand without forks.

Georgians are fond of salty and spicy dishes. So, if you don’t like such food, discuss it with the service staff when ordering.

There is WI-FI in almost every café and restaurant in Tbilisi. Hotels in different regions of Georgia also have access to the Internet.

Tbilisi is not included on the list of expensive cities. A minimum monthly income is around 200 GEL. Lots of Georgians, especially women, work in foreign countries in order to provide for their families. Many citizens buy natural and organic food direct from the villages.

Georgia is the cradle of wine, with more than 500 grape varieties. Wine is more honored here than beer or vodka.

It is a great sign of respect for a person if someone offers a toast to him with a glass of wine.

The Georgian feast is a significant part of spiritual and cultural tradition and part of the Georgian identity. Wine, bread, toasting and song are the main components of the Georgian feast.

If you are invited to a Georgian feast and a host drinks a toast to you, you should express your gratitude by drinking his toast as well and your gesture will be much appreciated.

Georgians usually drink lots of wine, but don’t get drunk easily. Being drunk it is not an embarrassment here.

It is illegal for Georgian society to drink wine, vodka, or any other alcoholic beverage, from bottles in the street.

There are special smoking areas in restaurants, cafes, bars and other public places.

Natural and organic food – cheese, vegetables, meat and Georgian sweets - can be purchased at the Agrarian market near “Station Square” metro-station. For safety avoid outside traders and standalone kiosks.

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Tap water is drinkable. Famous Georgian mineral waters are on sale in every market or corner shop.

Garbage (except construction garbage) is not classified in Tbilisi and is thrown together in bins.

CITY GUIDE

Elene Akhvlediani House Museum ADDRESS: 12 L. Kiacheli St.; TEL: +995 (32) 299 74 12 WORKING HOURS: every day except Sunday and Monday - 10.00 - 18.00 TICKET PRICE: Free.

The house-museum of this famous Georgian painter of the XX century was established in 1976. Elene Akhvlediani studied in France and Italy for years and, after returning to Georgia, her house became a kind of art salon, often hosting poetry evenings and concerts. Eminent musicians such as S. Richter and H. Neihaus also played there. The artist collected more than 4000 paintings during her life, which are on display in the house-museum. One can also find a variety of photos and documentary information there.

Folk and Applied Arts Museum ADDRESS: 28 Sh. Dadiani St.; TEL: +995 (32) 299 97 22; +995 (32) 299 61 52.

WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday - 11.00 - 18.00 TICKET PRICE: Adults - 2.00-3.00 Gel, children - 1.00 Gel. You can view works of Georgian and Caucasian masters of gold and silver dating back to the XIX-XX centuries and a collection of Caucasian carpets, graphics, and paintings of primitive painters.

Tbilisi Open Air Museum of Ethnography ADDRESS: 1 Kus Tba Highway.; TEL: +995 (32) 272 90 46 WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday - 10:00 - 18:00 TICKET PRICE: Adults - 1.50 Gel (at temporary exhibitions - 3.00 Gel), children - 1.00 Gel, students 1.00 Gel. Guided tour - 10.00 Gel. The Open Air Museum is located in Tbilisi, Vake district, to the west of “Turtle Lake” and is spread out over 65 hectares of land. The Museum features objects of traditional art and architecture from different parts of Georgia. It was founded in 1966 by George Chitaia, a famous Georgian ethnographer and academician. This is one of the most unique museums in Georgia, where you can explore the architecture and traditions of Georgian regions and also relax in a wonderful recreation zone.

Iakob Nikoladze House Museum ADDRESS: 6 Rodeni St. TEL: +995 (32) 222 14 14 WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday - 10.00 - 17.00 TICKET PRICE: Free.

The house-museum of a prominent Georgian realistic sculptor and one of the co-founders of the Georgian art school.

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Lado Gudiashvili Exhibition Hall ADDRESS: 11 L. Gudiashvili St.; TEL: (+995 32) 293 23 05 WORKING HOURS: every day, except Mondays and official holidays 11:00 - 18:30.

TICKET PRICE: Adults - 5 GEL; Youth from 6-18 - 3 GEL; Students and pensioners (with ID) - 3 GEL; Admission is free for orphan groups (with proof of status) and for children under 6.

Upon the initiative of Lado Gudiashvilis family, a part of the former living space of the artist has been kept as an exhibition hall since 2011. The three-leveled, elegant exhibition space of the Lado Gudiashvili Exhibition Hall is officially open to the public. In addition to the artist’s permanent exhibitions, the Exhibition Hall also holds temporary showings, lectures and seminars covering all aspects of contemporary art. The main profile of the Exhibition Hall is to provide a permanent platform for visitors to view Gudiashvili’s works by providing temporary exhibitions of his affluent heritage. Lado Gudiashvili (1896-1980) was one of the most prominent Georgian artists of the 20th century. He graduated from the Tbilisi School of Fine Arts in 1914. In 1919 he moved to Paris to study at Ronson’s “Free Academy” (1919-1926). The painter was also an active member of Paris’ vibrant art scene.

Literature-Memorial Museum of Ilia Chavchavadze ADDRESS: 7 I. Javakhishvili St. WORKING HOURS: every day except Sunday and Monday - 10.00 - 17.00 TICKET PRICE: Free.

Ilia Chavchavadze (1837 – 1907) was a Georgian writer, poet, journalist and lawyer who spearheaded the revival of the Georgian National Movement in the late 19th century during the Russian rule of Georgia. Today, he is widely regarded as one of the founding fathers of modern Georgia. In 1987 he was canonized as Saint Ilia the Righteous by the Georgian Orthodox Church.

Mirza Fatali Akhundov Azerbaijani Culture Museum ADDRESS: 17 Gorgasali St.; Tel: +995 (32) 272 15 71 WORKING HOURS: every day except Sunday and Monday - 10.00 - 17.00 TICKET PRICE: Free.

Mirza Fatali Mammad Taghi oglu Akhundov was a celebrated Azerbaijani author, playwright, philosopher, and founder of modern literary criticism.

Money Museum ADDRESS: 3/5 Leonidze St.; TEL: +995 (32) 240 64 05 WORKING HOURS: every day except weekends - 10:00 - 16:00 TICKET PRICE: Adult - 0.50 Gel, children - 0.10 Gel, students - 0.20.

Guided tour - free.

The museum was established by the National Bank of Georgia and offers you an interesting journey into the centuries-old history of money circulation in Georgia, from the 6th century B.C. up to the present, and also shows samples of foreign currency from different countries of the world. The exhibition starts by introducing a high nominal value tetra drachma of the ancient Colchian money, the so-called Kolkhuri Tetri. It is also possible to purchase replicas of old historical Georgian coins, modern Georgian jubilee and collection coins, and banknotes, books, brochures and CDs in the lobby of the Museum.

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Shalva Amiranashvili Museum of Fine Arts ADDRESS: 1 L. Gudiashvili St.; TEL: +995 (32) 299 99 09 WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday - 10:00 - 18:00 TICKET PRICE children - 1.00 Gel, students - 1.00 Gel. Guided tour - 10.00 Gel. The Shalva Amiranashvili Museum of Fine Arts was established in Tbilisi in 1920

Museum stores the works of famous Georgian painters Niko Pirosmanishvili, Lado Gudiashvili, Elene Akhvlediani, David Kakabadze, and others. The Museum

Simon Janashia State National Museum of Georgia ADDRESS: 3 Rustaveli Ave.; TEL: +995 (32) 299 80 22 WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday 11:00 - 18:00 TICKET PRICE children - 1.00 Gel, students - 1.00 Gel. Guided tour - 10.00 Gel

M is the prehistoric human remains found in Dmanisi. These remains date back 1.8 million years and are the oldest sign of human existence outside of Africa. This -

State Silk Museum ADDRESS: 6 Tsabadze St.; TEL: +995 (32) 234 09 67; +995 (32) 234 09 63 WORKING HOURS: every day except Monday 11:00 - 17:00 TICKET PRICE: adults - 3 Gel, schoolchildren and graduate students - 1 Gel, Group visitors (5 and more persons) - 2 Gel, Free of charge: children under 6 years, ICOM members and museum employees, researchers and graduates for research purposes, I and II category disabled persons, IDPs and socially vulnerable persons The State Silk Museum is one of the world’s oldest silk museums that aims to

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Tbilisi Theatre/ Concert Halls Royal District Theatre ADDRESS: 10 G. Abesadze St., TEL:+995 (32) 99 61 71

Tbilisi State Opera ADDRESS: 25 Shota Rusataveli ave., TEL:+995 (32) 204 45 54

Tbilisi State Marionette Theatre ADDRESS: 26 Shavteli St.; TEL: +995 (32) 298 65 90

Tbilisi Z.Paliashvili Opera and Ballet State Theatre ADDRESS: 25 Rustaveli Ave.; TEL: +995(32)214 32 03

Tbilisi Concert Hall ADDRESS: 1 Melikishvili St.; TEL: +995 (32) 299 05 99

V.Sarajishvili State Conservatoire ADDRESS: 8-10 Griboedov St.; TEL: +995 (32) 299 91 44

Sh. Rustaveli State Dramatic Theatre ADDRESS: 17 Rustaveli Ave.; TEL: +995 (32) 272 68 68

Fingers Theatre ADDRESS: 8 Marjanishvili St.; TEL: +995 (32) 295 35 82

Kakha Bakuradze Movement Theatre ADDRESS: 182 Agmashenebeli Ave.; TEL: +995 (599) 56 87 57

Kote Marjanishvili State Acedemic Theatre ADDRESS: 8 Marjanishvili St.; TEL: +995 (32) 295 40 01

Music And Drama State Theatre ADDRESS: 182 Aghmashenebeli Ave.; TEL: +995 (32) 234 80 90; +995 (32) 234 79 59

Nabadi - Georgian Folklore Theatre ADDRESS: 19 Rustaveli Ave.; TEL: +995 (32) 298 99 91

A. Griboedov Russian State Drama Theatre ADDRESS: 2 Rustaveli Ave.; TEL: +995 (32) 293 58 11; +995 (32) 293 18 40

Kakhidze Music Center ADDRESS: 123/125 D.AGMASHENEBELI AVE. TEL: (+995) 32 295 01 19, 296 06 20, 296 12 43 BOX OFFICE: (+995 32) 2962207 E-MAIL: INFO@KAKHIDZEMUSICCENTER.COM

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Artarea Gallery ADDRESS: 10 Dodo Abashidze St.

Art Gallery Line ADDRESS : 7 bambis Rigi; 44 k. Abkhazi St.; airport, “Primeclass” CIP lounges TEL: +995 (32) 250 85 80; +995 (599) 50 07 45

Gallery Container ADDRESS: 10G Radiani St. TEL: +995 (599) 01 38 38

Gallery Nectar ADDRESS: 16 Agmashenebeli Ave. TEL: +995 (32) 295 00 21; +995 (598) 51 15 05 WEB: www.gallerynectar.ge

Gallery Cameo ADDRESS: 11 Rkinis Rigi (near Metekhi Bridge)

Gallery Vanda ADDRESS: 14 Chonkadze St. TEL: +995 (32) 293 42 86

Artist ADDRESS: 69 Barnovi St. TEL: +995 (32) 229 43 31; +995 (599) 57 78 72

Baia Gallery ADDRESS: 10 Shardeni St. TEL: +995 (32) 275 45 10; +995 (599) 50 53 02

Gallery Tevdore ADDRESS: 6 Erekle II St. TEL: +995 (32) 298 98 56 11

What to see

IN GEORGIA’S CAPITAL Recommendations from Tbilisi Residents LADO BURDULI rock-musician

SULPHUR BATH #4 Located in Old Tbilisi, Abanotubani district. I pick out this bath from the others for its positive energy.

THE BOTANICAL GARDEN One of the greenest most beautiful and peaceful places in Tbilisi, with a picturesque panorama over the city.

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SAKHINKLE (places serving Georgian dish khinkali) It is not a European-type restaurant, but a typical Georgian and Tbilisan spot. Its steamy atmosphere and delicious khinkali should be appraised by all visitors to the country.

SOLOLAKI One of the most remarkable districts in the city. It is a real pleasure to stroll in Sololaki in the evening.

There are lots of buildings dating back to the XIX century and in ancient times this district was a place of beautiful gardens of the nobility.

THE METECHI BRIDGE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS Is a place where one can feel the true grandeur of the city. Metechi district, Meidani and other touristic sites are really worthy of attention.

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LIA BAGRATIONI ceramic artist

THE LOWER FOYER OF RUSTAVELI THEATRE Here on a wall one can see unique works of the prominent Georgian artists Lado Gudiashvili and David Kakabadze. Also, the famous café “Kimerion” was located here in the 1920s, a regular host of literature meetings.

THE WAY FROM BETLEMI TO NARIKALA FORTRESS It is so pleasant to stroll along a comfortable touristic route in good weather.

Guests of Georgia’s historical capital also have an opportunity to enjoy wonderful views over the city from this beauty spot.

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A REHEARSAL OF THE CHOREOGRAPHIC ENSAMBLE OF SUKHISHVILI The history of the Georgian National Ballet dates back to 1945. The ensemble offers an awesome blend of modernized ballet principles with Georgian national choreography.

THE GOLD FUND OF THE SIMON JANASHIA STATE MUSUEM A special place in the museum located on Rustaveli Avenue.

Visitors of the Gold Fund can enjoy a unique collection of precious metal and stone items from different historical periods. This exposition includes refined goldsmithery from the late III millennium B.C. to the IV century of the new chronology.

RESTAURANT “PURPUR” A remarkable mix of a restaurant and an exhibition area located in one of the historical buildings in Old Tbilisi. One can enjoy the retro feeling surrounded by multicolor tablecloths, large lamps, old furniture and antique interior accessories. You can have an unforgettable evening with a refined and delicious European and Georgian menu, live music and catch a glimpse of Tbilisi views from the balcony.

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SALOME BENIDZE writer, translator

GUDIASHVILI SQUARE One of my favorite places in Tbilisi with old houses, and the most majestic stories of soul and memories. One day I’m sure I’ll find a secret door here leading to the past.

ATESHGA Ruins of an ancient church of fire-worshippers, hidden beyond a gate in one of the many ordinary yards in the heart of historical Tbilisi. Don’t miss it!

ZEMO BETLEMI CHURCH A blend of faith, mystery, peacefulness and a picteresque view; it is a place where you would believe that God is the true love.

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#3 BETLEMI STREET You will never forget the main entrance here with a stained glass window, wooden stairs and colors sparkling on the walls. Here even the eyes of your loved one gain a different light.

PROSPERO’S BOOKS & CALIBAN’S COFFEEHOUSE This bookstore and café located at # 34 Rustaveli Avenue in a Tbilisian yard is an ideal place to work, have a late breakfast on the weekends or just to escape everyday routine and enjoy a cup of aromatic coffee.

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Karvasla

Where the History of Old Tbilisi and Art Meet...

Jean Chardin, a famous French traveler of the XVII century, in his work ‘Traveling in Persia and other Eastern countries’ noted: “there are wonderful public buildings and markets in Tbilisi.

Market places are wide, built in stone and are in a very good condition. The same can be said of the Karvaslas – habitations in which foreigners usually stay…”

Most Karvaslas which have preserved their authentic look to the present day date back to the XIX century, but one of the oldest, the Artsruni Karvasla, was constructed in the XVII century and is a multipurpose building even today.

The Karvasla building is located at 8 Sioni Street, between Sioni church and touristic hot spot Shardeni Street. In the beginning this building was a store for various goods and a barrelhouse.

Today it is an active tourist spot, where one can explore Georgian history in the museum, exhibition and trade areas.

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Tbilisi, as a crossroad of Europe and Asia, enthusiastically participated in trade activities in the Middle Ages. Exported goods were mostly purchased by the feudal aristocracy of that time, but all civic groups were involved in trading processes. Consequently, Karvaslas in Tbilisi served both merchants and travelers. Local and foreign traders and artisans stayed in those buildings with their goods and caravans. A Karvasla was a place where people would also conclude various trade agreements.

Artsruni Karvasla was a very active place - with 33 rented-rooms, 25 barrelhouses, stores and back rooms. The building was damaged by fire, but after being repaired it returned to its prior function until the 1920s.

A central gate of Karvasla leads in from Sioni Street, the façade of which consists of elements characteristic to the Modern style, while the side closer to Mtkari River is a good example of Russian Classicism.

The Tbilisi History Museum was established there in 1910. There are approximately 50,000 objects in the funds depicting city life from the IV millennium to present. You can enjoy archeological materials: bronze and iron weapons, vessels in metal, glass, faience and porcelain, jewelry, coins, flags and household goods. Additionally, you will find photos of Old Tbilisi, maps, sketches, and paintings – including the works of Lado Gudiashvili, Mose Toidze, Elene Akhvlediani, and other prominent artists.

Karvasla is a classical-type building and at its center is an inner yard, large and roofed with a cylinder vault, which was an open area in pastimes. There are some store-rooms around the yard, having a different function today.

While entering Karvasla it is possible to view a temporary exhibition area, a permanent exhibition and the first floor of the building –a beloved spot for tourists, with a versatile collection of Georgian souvenirs and wines.

The permanent exhibition of the Ioseb Grishashvili Tbilisi History Museum on the first floor offers a very interesting exposition of materials characteristic to Georgian history, life and culture.

The ceramics collection from Avlabari and the funds of manuscripts from old and middle ages are the highlights of the collection, as well as weapons, musical instruments and clothing. It is also very interesting to check out the urban history models, including an architectural collection of different buildings and districts.

Along with the history of the past, visitors to this venue have a chance to view contemporary art works in the exhibition halls on the third floor.

Regarding gastronomic treasures of the country, you can visit Schuchmann Wine Bar & Restaurant on the first floor of Karvasla and taste gastronomic delights - Georgian gourmet food paired with awesome Georgian wines from ancient grape varieties.

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Tbilisi from a Different Angle TEXT: NINO GVALIA

While visiting Georgia’s capital, you should definitely see its historical part, have a walk along the cobbled streets, take in the old wooden balconies and breathe Tbilisi’s sulphur aroma in Abanotubani district or cross the sky with a cable-car over Mtkvari River.

Old Tbilisi, with its must-see landmarks, is a place where tourists usually start their Georgian adventure. But there are also some remarkable locales which might give totally different impressions about the city and show it from a new angle. You will not be able to find such places on your tourist map and people might look with surprised eyes if you mention the Peikrebi (weavers) district as a touristic site which is located away from the center, in the suburbs near Sanzona and Gldani districts. At first glance, there is nothing interesting in the place, but from my perspective this is really an extraordinary area and a kind of “frozen” artifact of Social realism. More than a century ago it was one of the most active districts – with steaming factories, a productive atmosphere and buzz, new looms and hardworking people manufacturing different clothes, fabric, carpets, pillows, mattresses and versatile goods for household purposes. It was a little kingdom of weavers, most of its ‘citizens’ consisting of men. There were three types of weavers: weaver-dyers, who would color threads, ordinary weavers – people who made carpets, rugs and other products, and weaver-washers who served the nobility and washed their carpets. As I mentioned above, this field was more occupied by males in Tbilisi, but the opposite situation could be found in the mountainous regions of Georgia where the majority of weavers were women.

So, once you’ve explored the usual touristic sites, why not take a look at Tbilisi from a new angle and head out to see one of the urban extravaganzas of the capital of Georgia?! Take a cab for the Peikrebi district… Sure, you won’t get to see the old steaming pipes and hear the shouting of the weavers. But you will be able to step into a strange reality and atmosphere nonetheless, to see the remains of those huge factories amongst other hard-to-categorize buildings – versatile oddments of a different epoch, and a railway, as a symbol of your journey back in time.

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Mosaics

The Remarkable Heritage of Social Art

Tbilisi, Former Factory of Underwater Instruments photo: SOPHIA LAPIASHVILI

TEXT: NINI PALAVANDISHVILI Soviet period mosaics, as a theme and an art form, were completely forgotten about and out of the spotlight of public attention just 2-3 years ago, despite the fact we often come across them in Tbilisi and, generally, in many public spaces throughout Georgia. While observing our surroundings you will see mosaics on independently standing constructions, building facades, bus-stops, in little water pools and even on plant pots.

Unfortunately, a number of them are already heavily damaged destroyed or at risk of destruction and being lost forever. So, in order to “save” them, GeoAIR (artist initiative based in Georgia – www.geoair.ge) decided to conduct a study to register/document these mosaics and to analyze their artistic value.

Kobuleti, Bus Station photo: TAMARA BOKUCHAVA

Samegrelo, Nosiri, Former Car Repair Centre photo: GOGITA BUKHAIDZE

Tbilisi, Administrative building of Georgian Teleradiocenter photo: SOPHIA LAPIASHVILI

The mosaic art form was very popular, beginning from the 1960s until late 80s, but after the collapse of the Soviet Union, it was completely forgotten and many works sustained damage as a result of the economic situation and material problems of the country.

Kobuleti, Park photo: GOGITA BUKHAIDZE

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The intensive changes within public space that have been taking place in the past 20 years gave rise to GeoAIR’s interest in the monumental-decorative mosaics. On the one hand, the prior neglect is connected to the attempt by many to completely erase the legacy of the Soviet past from cultural or visual memory. On the other hand, it also concerns the current global neo-liberal policies (in this case, mainly the privatization of abolished or partially functioning enterprises following the collapse of the Soviet Union), changing public spaces as such where public participation is disappearing. In general, the unsystematic transformation of our urban environment, amateur interventions in forming the image of the city, and façade “beautifications” have led to the destruction of mosaics in the public spaces of Tbilisi.

Sadly, there is no political will or initiative among professionals to preserve the mosaics today, though the interest towards Soviet period mosaics is growing, especially among the young generation, highlighting that the art form of this period has esthetical, cultural and historical values which abolishes concrete time frames.

Hopefully, the activities of GeoAIR will go far beyond merely documenting this monumental-decorative art form and will result in a popularization and desire to protect and preserve the Soviet period mosaics among the populaion of Georgia.

Rustavi, Park photo: NINI PALAVANDISHVILI

You can contact info@geoair.ge to purchase the publication ‘Lost Heroes of Tbilisi. Soviet Period Mosaics’ published by GeoAIR. In order to check out a virtual map of existing mosaics, you can search it online with these key words: Soviet Modernism and Soviet Period Mosaics in Tbilisi.

Tbilisi, Former Gogilo Bathhouse photo: GOGITA BUKHAIDZE

Sajavakho, Imereti, Bus Station; photo: GOGITA BUKHAIDZE

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SHOPPING

Time Secrets Woven into

Carpets

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Georgia’s ancient culture can be read on its carpets. The tradition of carpet weaving dates back to immemorial times when Georgian artisans were the heirs of Byzantine masters. Modern experts note that handmade Georgian carpets are original and distinctive.

Unlike the Eastern style, a colorful, ornamental and expressive composition is a characteristic feature for Georgian carpets, which are also famous for their durability and preservation of their authentic look for a century or more thanks to the method of thread weaving.

It takes more than seven months to weave a carpet and handmade carpets are as usually most durable. Consequently, these distinctive works of art, with their artistic values and high quality, are extremely popular among visitors of the country.

You can check out a versatile collection of old and modern carpets in Old Tbilisi, near Freedom Square, Kote Apkhazi (Leselidze) Street, near the Dry Bridge - flea market and Vorontsov territory.

Prices of carpets range from 200 to 5000 GEL and prices of rugs usually start from 50 GEL. Along with Georgian carpets, you may view Persian, Indian, Turkish and Chinese carpets and rugs, bags, and sacks made from different carpet fragments.

If you decide to purchase a Georgian carpet, you should first pay attention to the quality of weaving and the number of knots. 75 000 to 800 000 and from 90 000 to 175 000 knots in one square meter is a sign of good quality.

There is one more point: an at-first-glance shabby carpet may cost thousands of GEL, when a new one can be purchased at a considerably low price. Quality and price of a carpet reflects not only its antiquity, but its weaving technique (handmade is more expensive, being rare and original), colors, ornaments, quality of wool and also whether made by real masters using threads colored with natural dyes.

Traditions of carpet weaving are better preserved in mountainous Georgia and consequently carpet shops are mostly supplied from these regions.

Masters from Tusheti are regarded as among the best weavers and improvisers, learning their craft from childhood.Carpets and rugs from Tusheti have preserved their distinctiveness and display ornaments full of freedom and jubilance even today. Black is a dominant color for Georgian and Tushetian carpets, but they may be also multicolored - but more duller tones.

“Caucasian Carpet Gallery” is home to the most versatile collection of carpets in Tbilisi. Tourists have an opportunity to check out Caucasian production as well as an Eastern collection in the gallery. There are carpets from Tusheti, Kakheti and Svaneti, as well as production from Azerbaijan, Dagestan and Iran - a sign that Tbilisi historically used to be true crossroads of European and Asian cultures.

Tbilisi’s carpet shops usually collaborate with experts who can confirm the quality and longevity of a work. It is also possible to restore a damaged carpet in order to return it to its original look. It is recommended to apply to a qualified consultant when choosing a carpet.

Sometimes owners of carpet shops venture to different regions of Georgia in order to find experienced and talented weavers. Omalo and Akhaltsikhe regions are famous for such artisans.

If Georgian carpet has captivated your heart, try to find time to visit one of the largest national craft centers in Dusheti, where you will be able to observe how old traditions of carpet weaving are preserved. It is also home to clay works, souvenirs, modern clothing with traditional ornaments, cloisonné enamel accessories and more.

It is also possible to catch a glimpse of beautiful carpets in Kakheti and Akhaltsikhe regions, where traditions of weaving have been passed from generation to generation. There are special art studios in these regions producing carpets according to Georgian traditions, and here you will be able to hear different stories about unique carpets made from wool and silk.

Today, you can come across Caucasian and Georgian carpets in every corner of the world, but the most authentic carpets at appealing prices, can most often be found in Tbilisi.

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Beka Gochiashvili’s

TEXT: NINO GVALIA

JAZZ Adventure BEKA GOCHIASHVILI IS A VIRTUOSO GEORGIAN PIANIST WHO MADE THE CHOICE TO LEARN JAZZ MUSIC WHEN HE WAS ONLY 6. THE AMERICAN-BASED MUSICIAN IS NOW 19 YEARS OLD AND SEEMS TO BE WELL ON HIS WAY, DEMONSTRATING VERSATILITY AND THE FULL DEPTH OF HIS MUSICAL TALENTS. HE HAS BEEN LIVING IN AMERICA FOR SIX YEARS AND MANY REMARKABLE

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THINGS HAVE HAPPENED DURING THIS TIME: GRADUATION FROM THE PRESTIGIOUS JUILLIARD SCHOOL, MEETING JAZZ PIANIST KEITH JARRETT, RELEASING A JOINT ALBUM WITH KEYBOARDIST CHICK COREA AND PLAYING REMARKABLE MUSICAL EVENINGS WITH BASSIST STANLEY CLARK AND DRUMMER LENNY WHITE AT THE BLUE NOTE CLUB IN NEW YORK.

HOW DO YOU REMEMBER YOUR WAY FROM GEORGIA TO AMERICA? I definitely love my homeland, but I always felt a different pulse beating, an inexplicable gene that gave a flow to my love of jazz.

While in the USA, I understood that it is a part of me and my second motherland. I remember my first impressions of Manhattan, when I saw a signboard with the word JAZZ on it and felt such inspiration and energy flow that I realized I was in the right place.

This is a country of unlimited freedom which helps you to figure out your aims, perceptions and then to achieve them.

THE HAPPIEST DAY IN YOUR LIFE? Maybe one of the happiest days in my life was when I appeared at the concert of Keith Jarrett. He is the most important figure for me and I even call him “my musical father”. So, I enter the concert hall, see his trio and feel that I’m in a different world. I don’t remember what he performed that day… I was in Astral!

IF NOT MUSIC… I can’t imagine what else I’d do… Maybe I’d learn something ambiguous and be an uncertain person, who is still searching and searching… There are lots of keys in life and the aim is to properly open a door and there is no need to rush- there’s always time!

WHAT INSPIRES YOU MOST IN YOUR LIFE? Music and my girlfriend, Ana. She’s in Amsterdam and when I wake up, the first thing I do is check for her message on my phone. I can hardly imagine life without love and music.

ARE YOU OPTIMISTIC? Yes I am. I don’t know why, but pessimists believe that they are realists… You shouldn’t lie to yourself and it’s important to praise events realistically, but cope with them optimistically.

WHAT IS YOUR TYPICAL DAY? I’m a night owl and wake up late. Sometimes I might forget about some of my plans and when I’m in Georgia my schedule turns upside-down, but I still try to be into music and play as much as I can.

TELL US ABOUT CHICK COREA. YOU WERE LISTENING TO HIS MUSIC FROM CHILDHOOD, HE WAS ONE OF YOUR FAVORITE MUSICIANS… ZOOM AHEAD IN TIME AND THIS PERSON IS TALKING OF YOU AS HIS FRIEND AND YOU ARE RECORDING AN ALBUM TOGETHER. Yes, we are real friends. I can call him anytime and ask for help or advice. It’s a strange story, how I met him. It was in the Blue Note Club and while listening to his music and from time to time I felt so emotional that I shouted out loud. First he looked a bit surprised, then I shouted again at the musical culmination, so he looked again. I thought he was angry. Then I went backstage and Chick asked me: “You’re that guy who was shouting, aren’t you?”

I felt very embarrassed, but he continued, “You know what? You shouted at those moments which I would shout at, too…” That’s how we met, then became friends and released a joint album.

It was a true delight to work with him and he gave me lots of freedom while recording the album. Once we had dinner together and he told me that he wanted to go for a while and practice a musical piece composed by me… A real “Cinderella” fairy tale, but this is America, a place where anything can happen.

WHAT DO YOU MISS MOST WHEN YOU ARE NOT IN GEORGIA? Kakheti and our village Vachnadzeani. It is a place where you can sip wine directly from Qvevri (clay vessel), see grapes being pressed and the wine production process, listen to wise grandparents… Tbilisi is my home city and I’m really very happy when I see how it’s getting more modern with new and trendy cafes and so on. But where can you find places like Kakheti, Kartli or Svaneti?

They are true treasures along with Georgian folk music and the songs of Hamlet Gonashvili. These are unique features of Georgia which I miss most.

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PIANIST TEXT: NINO GVALIA PHOTO CREDITS: GAVIN EVANS THE GREAT CAREER OF GEORGIAN PIANIST KHATIA BUNIATISHVILI HAS COME VERY NATURALLY AND AFTER GIVING HER DEBUT PERFORMANCE AS A SOLOIST WITH AN ORCHESTRA AT THE AGE OF SIX, THE PARIS-BASED PIANIST IN HER LATE 20S ENLIVENS MAJESTIC CLASSICAL TUNES AND CONTINUES TO CAPTIVATE AUDIENCES WORLDWIDE WITH HER REFINED SENSIBILITY AND VIRTUOSIC TECHNIQUE. KHATIA LEADS AN ACTIVE MUSICAL LIFE AND NOT LONG AGO THE PIANIST WAS INVITED BY THE FRONTMAN OF BRITISH ROCK BAND COLDPLAY TO PERFORM A PIANO PRELUDE IN ONE OF THEIR NEW TRACKS. A NICE EXAMPLE THAT REAL ART IS AN OPEN SPACE, WHERE TWO DIFFERENT MUSICAL GENRES CAN HARMONICALLY BLEND… •

KHATIA, PLEASE DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONALITY.

I am versatile. On the one hand, I am precisely disciplinarian and on the other, I am fond of complete freedom. Sometimes I’m too sensitive and sometimes I fully control myself with a cold brain. But still, love of freedom and sensitivity exaggerates over my cold, controlling mind and demand of accuracy. I have been working on myself from childhood to learn how to cope with my eclectic character, though, in my opinion I am a balanced person.

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WHAT IS THE MAIN INSPIRATION FOR YOU?

Love.

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HAPPINESS IS…

Untouchable- like love, it makes a fleeting moment eternal.

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WHAT DO YOU MISS MOST?

My childhood.

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HOW DO YOU SPEND YOUR FREE TIME?

In different ways. I try to give my all on stage and the left emptiness is filled through communicating with my loved ones, or by reading, watching films and being in nature… But I never have any free time and I have to steal it.

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IF NOT MUSIC…

We would live in a melancholic silence.

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WHAT CHARACTERISTICS DOES A PIANIST NEED TO REACH SUCCESS?

I don’t know what the main reason for success is, but I can tell you what makes a pianist distinguished: individuality, polyphonic thinking and ear, intellect, depth, authentic phrasing and sound, a sense of dramaturgy, form and entirety, diligence and durability.

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TSIRA ELISASHVILI Cultural Heritage Expert FROM WHICH POINT WOULD YOU START A GUIDED TOUR IN TBILISI? I would start my guided tour from Zemeli Street (as I usually do) and then go up to Sololaki district through the winding streets.

WHAT WOULD YOU RETURN TO THE CAPITAL OF GEORGIA FROM THE PAST? I would return the Soviet culture of planting greenery.

YOUR FAVORITE STREET IN TBILISI. Betlemi Street.

FROM YOUR PERSPECTIVE WHAT COULD BE AN APPROPRIATE SOUNDTRACK FOR TBILISI? Taking into consideration everything that is happening now in the city, I think Gia Kancheli’s music from the film “Blue Mountains” could be the most appropriate soundtrack for Tbilisi.

WHAT ARE THE MOST MUST-SEE SITES IN GEORGIA? Vardzia, Ushguli, Katskhi Pillar and Martvili Canyon.

WHICH PLACE IS A REAL TREASURE OF GEORGIA, BUT IS LESS WELL-KNOWN? We have very little information about the Lechkhumi region. There is rather different nature in Lechkhumi, it is also very interesting to view the Askha and Khvamli mountains there. Okure village is the only home to a unique grape variety, from which people make wine Usakhelouri.

ARE TBILISI OR OTHER CITIES MISSING ANY MONUMENTS, MEMORIALS OR STATUES? Somewhere in the capital I would stand a monument of our hippo Beglar, who has become a kind of symbol of Tbilisi after the tragic 13-June flood. This monument should be available for everyone to come closer and rub his nose, which would be polished from lots of touching. This would also be a symbolic monument of the numerous young people who selflessly helped the city in those gloomy days.

WHERE WOULD YOU MEET DAWN IN TBILISI? I would stand on Narikala and watch how Metechi plateau is reflected in Mtkvari River.

WHICH COLOR WOULD YOU DYE THE CITY? Tbilisi is a multicolor city by character, architectural style, cultural and ethnic elements, so its true color is in the diversity of colors.

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Gruzinski Smak VAKHO BABUNASHVILI PHOTO: RADEK POLAK

A NEW BOOK ABOUT THE GEORGIAN CUISINE SAW DAYLIGHT JUST RECENTLY- A BOOK IN POLISH THAT IS SURE TO GUARANTEE A REMARKABLE JOURNEY INTO THE WORLD OF TASTES! This is a cookery book about my country, Georgia. The book is lit with nostalgic aromas from my childhood and with the tastes from my youth.

This is a book about Georgian taste in general. For me, the best way to understand Georgia and its uniqueness is to search; go through the Georgian cuisine, discover the differences between the regions and, of course, the famous Georgian ‘supra’ (feast) table.

With this book you will have an adventure through time, sample stories and legends by taste. Each story has its own smell and taste, all the dishes have a story.

I clearly remember the smell of vanilla on my grandmother’s hands, the taste of fried Tolma in natural butter, the pleasant sound of mom’s simple pan-fried potatoes, my father’s Chakapuli made in a very elegant way and with ideas that were quite creative for the hungry 90s…

This book is a kind of time machine by which we will travel not only into the past but with which we will understand the present and will try to see the future through the tastes and smell, stories and legends.

Through the book ‘Gruzinski Smak’ you will discover not touristic Georgia, but the real one with real people, with real stories, with real photos and with the real tastes of Georgia.

Through this book we will try to show you a unique Georgia you never knew before.

This is a book with more than 40 original recipes and each of them has its own story with a Georgian taste…

Gagvimarjos! Cheers!

For me, cooking is an art, and this is not just a cliché sentence “cooking is ART” I am a professional musician and I know how it works in music, what happens when an idea is in the air, how it’s converted into notes, chords, sound, composition, recording… it’s the same with food.

Radek Polak, Polish professional photographer and me, two different artists, decided to cooperate in the study of Georgian taste. That’s a big challenge for us, we have to compose something unique, we have to discover the Georgian taste!

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GEORGIAN GASTRONOMIC CULTURE Samegrelo and philosophy of Ghomi

TEXT: DALI TSATAVA PHOTO: ANA BOKO The traditions of an each nation are tightly connected with food and its gastronomic culture. Georgian cuisine can be described versatilely, but one of its main features is in its regional characteristics, original product and ways of preparation, as well as in spices which have no equal in western Georgia.

Today I will talk only about the Samegrelo region – a place where I was born, brought up, and where my home and roots are. I also want to highlight that Megrelian cuisine is very refined, interesting and versatile, presenting various gourmet dishes.

When I start thinking about the gastronomic culture of Samegrelo, all my sensor organs start to activate… Smoked Kupati with ghomi (millet), or Megrelian kharcho hot sauces, Megrelian khachapuri, kuchmachi-jurjani, elarji, piglet with ajika sauce and tkemali… hot dishes along with sad and melancholic songs.

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high-quality firewood of hornbeam, beech or oak trees for boiling this dish. While making ghomi, it needs stirring in several times and a housewife always had her hair covered when she came close to the pot. It was a kind of insult for a woman in Samegrelo if someone said about her ‘she is the type of woman who makes ghomi with uncovered and disheveled hair’. Ghomi was tastier after being stirred in many times.

How to guess that ghomi is ready? When it becomes like porridge and has a dried ‘belt’ with an appetizing smell. Ghomi was mixed in a special mixer and while being put on a plate the mixer was soaked. As soon as the housewife put ghomi on a plate, she began to wash the mixer, because it was an embarrassment for both ghomi and family to leave the mixer unwashed even for a little while.

Ghomi is a very important dish for Megrelians, it is regarded as ritual food and in ancient Samegrelo its preparation had several adaptable stages. The new epoch has changed lots of things, but in Samegrelo one can hardy imagine a ritual- funeral or celebration feast -without ghomi made from high-quality corn.

Ghomi was regarded not only as a nutritious and digestible ritual food, but also as a curative dish and its first foam was an indispensable remedy for nursing moms. Men also used this dish for different purposes and tried to escape hangovers by adding savories and pepper to ghomi.

The preparation of ghomi was like a ritual. A groomed housewife in new clothing and with covered hair first sifted the corn flour, and then started to wash the ground flour, the first water, with so-called “ghomi milk” was kept separately and this liquid was added while boiling, in order to keep its special aroma. Ground flour was washed several times and then kept in a special pot ‘chuani’. This pot had a thick top and was only used for making ghomi. If someone ‘dared’ to cook another dish in this pot, it was seen as an of insult to the dish. People had separate and

There are many anecdotes about ghomi in Samegrelo, but still this dish is tightly connected with rituals and traditions and is regarded as one of the most important components of a feast. It is a revered food for guests.

Much can be said about the gastronomic culture of Samegrelo…

I am in love with this brisk, open-minded, hot-tempered and accurate people and I am really proud to be a little part of their ancient spirit.

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SERGO KOBULADZE (1909 – 1978) Sergo Kobuladze is one of the bravest and most passionate representatives of Georgian graphics, theatre art and painting history.

He ventured into cultures and epochs - from Dante to Rustaveli and showed a remarkable result!

He was just 25 years old when he started to do illustrations on order for ‘The Knight in the Panther’s Skin.’

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Kobuladze worked in the Zakaria Paliashvili State Academic Opera and Ballet Theatre as an artist from 1931. Kote Marjanishvili invited him to the theatre in 1932 and from that time he actively collaborated with the theatre. Kobuladze decorated performances in Marjanishvili and Rustaveli theatres, the Zakaria Paliashvili State Academic Opera and Ballet Theatre and the Moscow Bolshoi Theatre. The artist was awarded with significant honors for decorating opera performance ‘Tariel’s Story’ by M. Shvelidze (1947) and ballet ‘Light’ by G. Kilaze, staged the same year. Kobuladze was a lecturer at Tbilisi State Art Academy, after which he became a professor and a rector of the Academy in 1952 – 1959.

The artist took active part in exhibitions in Moscow and other cities from 1930 onwards. In the 1950s his works were sent to Venice and London.

Sergo Kobuladze created a ceremonial curtain for the Zakaria Paliashvili State Academic Opera and Ballet Theatre in 1960.

The curtain was restored and hung in the newly repaired Opera House in 2016, after a six-year interval of reparation works.

Cultural Events Line Up

*** The Clermond Ferrand International Short Film Festival will run from 5-13 February in France and its competition program puts together two Georgian films: Tornike Bziava’s ‘Wake Man’ and ‘Lost Village’ by Giorgi Todria.

‘Wake Man’ is a finalist film of the Georgian National Film Center competition and a story about an old, poor man who learns about wakes from a newspaper and attends them to stay for the ‘kelekhi’, a traditional feast held after the burial. The at-first-glance sad story also combines entertaining and comic elements.

*** ‘Lost Village’ is a film about the life of a middle-aged couple in an abandoned village. One day light appears in an abandoned house a fact wich changes the life of the middle-aged couple. The husband and wife react to the situation each in a different way.

The film was awarded with prizes at film festivals in Spain and Athens.

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*** The finalist film of the Locarno Film Festival, ‘Father’ by Data Pirtskhalava, will soon take part in the Rotterdam Film Festival.

‘Father’ is a dynamic 25-minute drama telling of a Georgian family consisting of a working single mother and two teenage brothers. The father abandoned the family years ago, without any proper explanation. The boys are much affected by the absence of a father figure in their lives…

*** The Literature Museum hosts Roko Iremashvili’s personal multimedia exhibition ‘Exit to Fire.’

This personal visual interpretation of biblical stories features: Triptych D5,25, (multimedia), ‘Crucifix’ (multimedia), ‘Announcement’ (painting), ‘The Value of Victory’ (painting), ‘Salomea’ (painting), ‘Banishment from the Paradise’ (painting), ‘30 Silver Coins’ (painting).

*** The Georgian National Museum Dimitri Shevardnadze National Gallery is hosting an exhibition dedicated to the 120th anniversary of the distinguished Georgian modernist artist Shalva Kikodze.

Shalva Kikodze’s personal exhibition is being held following a 100-year pause, and some of the artworks are being showcased for the first time. The exhibition features approximately 300 works by the author, including paintings and graphics, illustrations, caricatures of famous artists, sketches, photo materials of the stained-glass window painted by the artist and some documentary materials of Kikodze’s biography.

*** The Zakaria Paliashvili State Academic Opera and Ballet Theatre opened on January 30th after a six-year interval of reparation works. The newly-restored building was opened with the opera performance ‘Absalom and Eteri’- staged by Gizo Zhordania, artist: Giorgi Aleksi-Meskhishvili. The leading parts were performed by the world-famous opera singers Lado Ataneli and Tamar Iveri, specially invited for this ceremonial.

*** Zaza Urushadze’s award-winning film Tangerines has added another prize to its collection of awards, after being named Best European Film at one of the most prestigious Spanish film awards.

The annual Gaudi Awards selected the Estonian-Georgian co-production from a shortlist of four cinema projects from Europe

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TEXT: IRMA KAKHURASHVILI

BAKURIANI Bakuriani is one of the most beautiful winter resorts with coniferous forests covered with snow, ski routes, cozy guest-houses, little cafes, narrow streets with people selling honey and cone jam, the lovely “cuckoo” train and the fresh mountain air which is so health-giving, for lungs in particular.

Bakuriani is located 180 km from Tbilisi in Borjomi gorge, 1700 meters above sea level. It is only 30 km from Borjomi to Bakuriani and on your way there you have a brilliant chance to catch a glimpse of some truly magnificent views.

The entertaining and vacationing season starts in December and lasts to the end of March in Bakuriani, the remarkable nature, climate and awesome location of which attracts visitors in summer, too. The fir-grove is a wonderful asylum to escape the summer heat while the blossoming of pine-trees in May is special time of respite for people with lung and bronchi problems.

The Bakuriani resort became famous in the 1930s for its children’s sanatorium of children and skiing infrastructure. There is also a botanical garden founded with the remarkable collection of Alpen flora.

It is an ideal place for family holidays and active relaxation– skiing, snowboarding and skating. Extremists can enjoy the ATV and snowmobile tours. For entertainment, you can also ride in a hot air balloon, enjoy horse riding, and visit the cinema. The amusement park, with three entertainment zones: Tubing land, Ski land and Baby land is a true delight for children.

The special highlight of Bakuriani is the narrow gauge railway Borjomi-Bakuriani “Cuckoo Train” constructed in 1898-1901. It is really impressive to take this train and venture through the mountains. Special “Porter” type steam-engines were first brought from England for this purpose, though since it has been replaced with a motor engine.

If you decide to spend your winter holidays in Bakuriani, it is advisable to book accommodation in advance. There are a number of hotels and guest-houses, and it is also possible to rent a flat or cottages. Most hotels serve delicious food and have a cozy atmosphere. Prices in guest-houses range from 40 to 120 USD. Bakuriani is a place to get unforgettable skiing memories and if you are a beginner or need to get more experience, it is possible to take lessons with skiing instructors.

There are several ski routes with modern infrastructure:

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ABASTUMANI

If you want to organize calm winter holidays in a unique climate and watch the planet Venus even in the daytime - the resort Abastumani is a perfect destination for you. This mining-balneological resort is located in 220 km from Tbilisi on the southern slopes of the Meskheti Range, 1,270-1,340 meters above sea level.

Pine-tree forests covered with snow looks like a Christmas fairy tale. It is a true delight to stroll there and catch a glimpse of the fascinating views.

The prestigious Georgian composer Zakaria Paliashvili created his opera “Daisi” in Abastumani, which was one of the most well-organized resorts of that time.

Abastumani had numerous visitors before the 1990s and it must come as pleasant news that the rehabilitation process of Abastumani will begin this year. Some important landmarks will have their authentic look returned, including a nunnery in Romanov’s Palace.

This building is really quite unique, as it was constructed without even a single nail.

The thermal waters of Abastumani are world-famous and curative for many diseases, including rheumatic, neural and dermatological problems. There is also a bath-house, dating back to the times of the Russian Kings, which is supplied with natural Sulphur waters.

In ancient times Abastumani used to be a residency of King (Queen) Tamar. Later, some representatives of Russia’s Royal Family undertook a course of medical treatment there. Among them was Giorgi Romanov, who left the throne because of serious lung disease and settled in Abastumani. Two-storey summer and winter palaces were built in this period. Giorgi Romanov added greatly in his contribution to establishing and developing a resort in Abastumani.

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Abastumani, with its surroundings, is regarded as an etalon of ecologically clean nature with unique atmospheric conditions – high transparency of air, windless weather and clear nights.

As a result of such climate, the first mining astrophysical observatory in the Soviet Union was introduced there in 1932, 5km from Abastumani, located 1,700 meters above sea level.

The Observatory has been running wide-profile studies ever since and visitors have an opportunity to view a telescope with a 40-sm refractor lens. There are also 15 telescopes and various equipment for atmospheric research.

The observatory is a unique place in Europe and it is highly

recommended for tourists to visit this site, take a guided tour and observe celestial bodies at night. The Observatory is also home to lots of extremely important discoveries: two comets, some small planets, 8 new stars and several groups of stars have so far been discovered from there. Brand new equipment - a camera for shooting the whole sky, and a meteor-station -were installed in the Observatory not long ago and now it is possible to shoot the whole sky and get meteorological information in a 24-hour regime.

There are six guest-houses in Abastumani, and prices per night start from 50 GEL. It is also possible to stay in privately owned houses for approximately 20 GEL.

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ANANURI Art Residence

PHOTO: GISELLA MINANTE

PROJECT ANNOTATION

The abandoned village Avenisi is located 70 kilometers from Tbilisi, in the Mtskheta-Mtianeti region. It is close to the historical borough Ananuri and is situated on the left bank of the Zhinvali reservoir. This territory is a reserve, abundant with natural and anthropogenic sights, and with landscapes that present some samples of distinguished beauty.

The territory is deserted and practically uninhabited. The land parcel in question constitutes 2,800 sq. meters, with a two-storey

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wooden residential building containing 8 bedrooms, as well as a separate kitchen building, four wooden cottages which can be perfectly used as workshops, and a stable located nearby.

A new project, named Art Ananuri, implies the proper arrangement of the land and the buildings so that a free creative space can be set up on the territory, which means creating an ideal place for artists to work, giving them the chance to make the most of their potential in the recreational zone.

Within the scope of the project, emphasis will be laid upon visual arts, painting, video-art, sculpturing, performance art, environment art, landscape art, etc. One of the basic concepts of project is to give the XXI century’s creative humans some isolation from the technological industrial space of modernity in order for them to achieve full concentration on their perceptions and ideas, and be able to focus on the implementation of these ideas by taking advantage of inspiration coming from the energy and the location of this place. Despite the proximity to the capital of Georgia (Tbilisi) and Ananuri borough, the territory of future creative space is

isolated from the common society, which perfectly reflects the idea of the project.

The project presupposes long-term development: on seasonal basis, from April till October inclusive, Ananuri Art-Caravanserai will be ready to host both Georgian and foreign residents. Apart from the implementation of individual artists’ projects, Art Ananuri will be a place of cultural exchange, the exchange of experience, and as a result – the place where strong ties will be formed between different cultures, yielding positive and interesting consequences.

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The project will make significant social impact as it presupposes involving and employing some of the local population (Ananuri residents). The food for the Art Ananuri inhabitants will be fully supplied by the borough.

The project Art Ananuri certainly implies the organization of annual cultural and educational events and festivals on a permanent basis, as well as close collaboration with Georgian and foreign artists, curators and numerous art circles.

Several public schools are located in Ananuri and the surrounding settlements and so it is hoped the guest artists and lectur-

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ers will run workshops for local pupils. What’s more several art students will be offered free housing, food and work materials each year.

Added to this is the fact that the open air territory of Art Ananuri could be used to host various expositions.

Ananuri Art Residency

coortinative group Lia Gulua Alexander Leitner Eka Kartsivadze Elisabeth Penker

open May -September

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