Margarethe von Trotta at Tbilisi International
Film Festival 1
Nestan Nene Kvinikadze
EDITORIAL
Autumn in Georgia is equally interesting and active for grape-selling villagers and winemakers as it is for photographers and the owners of little hostels along tiny streets. It is the time for spending weekends in the Kakheti region. It is the time for dipping churchkhelas and passing trucks loaded with grapes. It is the time of landscapes with impressionist aesthetics. Those who enjoy adventures and are fond of travelling can follow us to Kakheti, check out the autumn menu and take a part in a wine tasting. And those who are going to stay in the capital can visit the Georgian National Museum and see the unique collection of Oriental Arts. Modern artist Roko Iremashvili will host you in his art studio, while poets and journalists will reveal their top must-see places to you. View old and beautiful Tbilisi balconies and set a time for a trip to suit any budget. As for the nightlife, based on leading cultural magazines, Tbilisi’s techno-scene offers not only the best lineups, but festivals large and small to equal those of European “Mecca” cities. So, get planning for a party weekend and head to the night clubs listed in our magazine.
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Artwork:
Dr.Love
VAKHO BABUNASHVILI
IKA PIRVELI MARIAM TSKITISHVILI LIG STUDIO KETI MAGULARIA TAMAR ZARKUA ANA KHACHEISHVILI ELENE TSIBADZE
redaqcia N3
MARIAM TSKITISHVILI
AUTUMN ISSUE #5 23468394 3
CITY GUIDE
Tbilisi’s Essential Venues
Museums
ADDRESS: 12 L.Kiacheli St.; TEL: WORKING HOURS: TICKET PRICE:
Folk and Applied Arts Museum ADDRESS: 28 Sh.Dadiani St.; +995 (32) 299 97 22; TEL:
+995 (32) 299 61 52. WORKING Daily except HOURS: Monday - 11.00 - 18.00
TICKET PRICE:
Adults - 2.00-3.00 Gel, Children - 1.00 Gel.
You can view works of Georgian and Caucasian masters of gold and silver dating back to the XIX-XX centuries and a collection of Caucasian carpets, graphics, and paintings of primitive painters.
Tbilisi Open Air Museum of Ethnography ADDRESS: 1 Kus Tba Highway.; +995 (32) 272 90 46. TEL: WORKING Daily except HOURS: Monday - 10:00 - 18:00 TICKET Adults - 1.50 Gel (at temporary exhibitions - 3.00 Gel), PRICE: Children - 1.00 Gel, Students 1.00 Gel. Guided tour - 10.00 Gel.
The Open Air Museum is located in Tbilisi, Vake district, to the west of “Turtle Lake” and is spread out over 65 hectares of land. The Museum features objects of traditional art and architecture from different parts of Georgia. It was founded in 1966 by George Chitaia, a famous Georgian ethnographer and academician. This is one of the most unique museums in Georgia, where you can explore the architecture and traditions of Georgian regions and also relax in a wonderful recreation zone. 4
Elene Akhvlediani House Museum +995 (32) 299 74 12 every day except Sunday and Monday 10.00 - 18.00 Free.
The house-museum of this famous Georgian painter of the XX century was established in 1976. Elene Akhvlediani studied in France and Italy for years and, after returning to Georgia, her house became a kind of art salon, often hosting poetry evenings and concerts. Eminent musicians such as S. Richter and H. Neihaus also played there. The artist collected more than 4000 paintings during her life, which are on display in the house-museum. One can also find a variety of photos and documentary information there.
Iakob Nikoladze House Museum ADDRESS: 6 Rodeni St.; +995 (32) 222 14 14. TEL: WORKING Daily except Monday 10.00 - 17.00 HOURS: TICKET Free. PRICE:
The house-museum of a prominent Georgian realistic sculptor and one of the co-founders of the Georgian art school.
Lado Gudiashvili Exhibition Hall ADDRESS: 11 L.Gudiashvili St.; +995 (32) 293 23 05 TEL: WORKING Dayli, except Mondays and official holiHOURS: days 11:00 - 18:30. TICKET Adults - 5 GEL; Children from 6-18 - 3 GEL; PRICE: Students and pensioners (with ID) - 3 GEL;
Admission is free for orphan groups (with proof of status) and for children under 6.
Upon the initiative of Lado Gudiashvili’s family, a part of the former living space of the artist has been kept as an exhibition hall since 2011. The three-leveled, elegant exhibition space of the Lado Gudiashvili Exhibition Hall is officially open to the public. In addition to the artist’s permanent exhibitions, the Exhibition Hall also holds temporary showings, lectures and seminars covering all aspects of contemporary art. The main profile of the Exhibition Hall is to provide a permanent platform for visitors to view Gudiashvili’s works by providing temporary exhibitions of his affluent heritage. Lado Gudiashvili (1896-1980) was one of the most prominent Georgian artists of the 20th century. He graduated from the Tbilisi School of Fine Arts in 1914. In 1919 he moved to Paris to study at Ronson’s “Free Academy” (1919-1926). The painter was also an active member of Paris’ vibrant art scene.
Mirza Fatali Akhundov Azerbaijani Culture Museum Money Museum ADDRESS: 3/5 Leonidze St.; +995 (32) 240 64 05 TEL: WORKING Daily except weekends - 10:00 - 16:00 HOURS: TICKET Adults - 0.50 Gel, Children - 0.10 Gel, PRICE: Students - 0.20. Guided tour - free.
ADDRESS: 17 Gorgasali St.; +995 (32) 272 15 71 TEL: WORKING Daily except Sunday HOURS: and Monday - 10.00 17.00
TICKET PRICE:
Free.
Mirza Fatali Mammad Taghi Oglu Akhundov was a celebrated Azerbaijani author, playwright, philosopher, and founder of modern literary criticism.
Literature-Memorial Museum of Ilia Chavchavadze ADDRESS: 7 I.Javakhishvili St.; The museum was established by the National Bank of Georgia and offers you an interesting journey into the centuries-old history of money circulation in Georgia, from the 6th century B.C. to the present, and also shows samples of foreign currency from different countries of the world. The exhibition starts by introducing a high nominal value tetra drachma of the ancient Colchian money, the so-called Kolkhuri Tetri. It is also possible to purchase replicas of old historical Georgian coins, modern Georgian jubilee and collection coins, and banknotes, books, brochures and CDs in the lobby of the Museum.
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WORKING Daily except Sunday and HOURS: Monday - 10.00 - 17.00. TICKET Free. PRICE: Ilia Chavchavadze (1837 - 1907) was a Georgian writer, poet, journalist and lawyer who spearheaded the revival of the Georgian National Movement in the late 19th century during the Russian rule of Georgia. Today, he is widely regarded as one of the founding fathers of modern Georgia. In 1987 he was canonized as Saint Ilia the Righteous by the Georgian Orthodox Church.
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SIMON janashia state national museum of georgia ADDRESS: 3 Rustaveli Ave.; +995 (32) 299 80 22 TEL: WORKING Daily except Mondays 11:00 - 18:00. HOURS: TICKET Adults - 1.5 Gel (at temporary exhibitions - 3 Gel); Children - 1 Gel; PRICE: Students - 1 Gel; Guided tour - 10.00 Gel. The Museum operates as a scientific-educational institution that preserves and exhibits a unique collection of natural and human history. The collection of the S.Janashia Museum cover the history of the country, starting from animal remains dated back 40 million years. One of the most amazing artifacts at the Museum is the prehistoric human remains found in Dmanisi. These remains date back 1.8 million years and are the oldest sign of human existence outside of Africa. This discovery changed the whole theory of human evolution. One of the most important collection of the Museum is the Collection of Treasures that contains a large number of unique ogjects drom different historical periods: from the late III millennium BC through the XIX century AD. The collection features gold and silver artifacts and jewelery from the pre-Christian period from different regions of Georgia.
shalva amiranashvili museum of fine arts state silk museum ADDRESS: 6 tsabadze St.; +995 (32) 234 09 67; TEL: +995 (32) 234 09 63
WORKING Daily except Mondays 11:00 - 17:00. HOURS: TICKET Adults - 3 Gel, Schoolchildren and Graduate Student PRICE: - 1Gel, Group visitors (5 and more persons) - 2 Gel, Free of charge: children under 6 years, ICOM members and museum employees, researchers and graduates for research purposes, I and II category disabled persons, IDPs and socially vulnerable persons (with valid identification).
ADDRESS: 11 L.Gudiashvili St.; +995 (32) 299 99 09 TEL: Daily except Mondays 10:00 - 18:00. WORKING HOURS: TICKET Adults - 1.5 Gel (at temporary exhibitions - 3 Gel); PRICE: Children - 1 Gel; Students - 1 Gel; Guided tour - 10.00 Gel.
The State Silk Museum is one of the world’s oldest silk museums that aims to promote the understanding and apperaction of silk, it’s production and use through different displays and educational programs.
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The Shalva Amiranashvili Museum of Fine Arts was estabilished in Tbilisi in 1920 as the National Arts Gallery of Georgia. The museum houses the best-known samples of Georgia artwork. Various collections of the Museum preserve approximately sixty thousand objects. The museum is distinguished for its Georgian goldsmithry pieces dating back to the VII-XIX centuries. The most significant exhibits are the icon of the Zarzma Monastery, the Chalice of Bedia, Anchiskhati and Khakhuli Triptychs and Processional Liturgical Crosses. Unique are the exhibits of cut-enamel, jewelry and art textiles from the VIII-XV cc. The Museum sores the works of famous Georgian painters Niko Pirosmanishvili, Lado Gudiashvili, Elene Akhvlediani, David Kakabadze and others. The Museum also hosts collections of Russian, Western Europe and Oriental artworks.
Tbilisi museum of history (karvasla) ADDRESS: 8 Sioni St.; +995 (32) 292 32 27 TEL: WORKING Daily except Mondays 11:00 - 17:00. HOURS: TICKET Adults - 1.50 Gel, Children - 1.00 Gel, Students - 1.00 Gel, PRICE: Guide tour - 10.00 Gel.
A truly interesting place to learn about Tbilisi and discover the hidden sides of the city. It presents archeological, ethnological, archival materials, as well as national and applied arts and a rich photo-collection.
vakhtang chabukiani museum ADDRESS: 83/23 Aghmashenebeli Ave.; WORKING Daily except Mondays and Sunday HOURS: 11:00 - 17:00. TICKET Free PRICE: Vakhtang Chabukiani (1910 - 1992) was a distinguished Georgian ballet dancer, choreographer and teacher. Considered one of the most influential male ballet dancer, he created the majority of the male choreography for many famous ballets including Le Corsaire and La Bayadere
museum of soviet occupation ADDRESS: 3 Rustaveli Ave.; WORKING Daily except Mondays 10:00 - 18:00. HOURS: TICKET Adults - 1.50 Gel, Children - 1.00 Gel, Students PRICE: - 1.00 Gel, Guide tour - 10.00 Gel. The Museum provides visitors with information about Georgia during the Soviet occupation. The collection on show features photos, documents and assorted information including a list of people executed in that period.
zurab tsereteli museum of modern art ADDRESS: 27 Rustaveli Ave.; +995 (32) 214 84 11 TEL: WORKING 11:00 - 18:00, Day off: Monday HOURS: TICKET Adults - 5.00 Gel, Students - 1.00 Gel, PRICE: School Children - 1.00 Gel, Socially vulnerable groups free entrance
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What to see
Recommendations from Tbilisi Residents
THE BOTANICAL GARDEN Beautiful all year round and especially in the autumn. You need just several minutes to escape noisy Tbilisi and enjoy the atmosphere on this mystical territory.
ANKA GUJABIDZE, photographer
NUTSUBIDZE STREET A place where two high residential blocks are connected by a bridge. The bridge is high and while standing there, you might feel sort of suppressed, but Nutsubidze’s renowned buildings - an echo of the soviet esthetic, can be best seen from there.
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LISI LAKE Spend a night at Lisi Lake and get a chance to see the violet-color lake in its beauty at dawn. You’ll love the impressively odd landscape.
TBILISI SEA You may come across many interesting people there and “jewelry seekers” among them, trying to find lost precious items with their handmade metal-detectors.
RUSTAVI a former industrial town near Tbilisi and a perfect place for tourists interested in soviet architecture. Rustavi expresses very well the pseudo collectivization and the false ideology of the soviet times.
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EKA KEVANISHVILI, poet
THE DRY BRIDGE
(TBILISI FLEA MARKET) A remarkable place, where sellers bargain directly and treasures can be found.
STUDENTS’ CITY The called Students’ city in Vake district and the iron bridge there - such places also exist in Tbilisi.
THE ETHNOGRAPHIC OPEN-AIR MUSEUM You can catch not only a glimpse of magnificent views from there, but also see old Georgian houses and experience the smell of a different Georgia. 10
VERTSKHLIS (SILVER) STREET It is possible to see old crafts studios, fragments of the true city, while strolling along this tiny old street.
BETLEMI DISTRICT (SOLOLAKI) If you wish to step into the scene of an old Georgian film, just take a walk along Betlemi district.
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ANANO BAKURADZE, journalist
THE GEORGIAN NATIONAL CENTER OF MANUSCRIPTS The real treasure of Georgian culture and history preserved in archives. The history of Georgian manuscripts is very important for Georgians, thus tourists will be able to explore it through this unique collection.
PLEKHANOVI DISTRICT Plekhanovi District (an adjacent territory to Marjanishvili metro-station) - a place which has preserved the real image of true Tbilisi with Catholic and Russian churches, old cinema ‘Apollo,’ the State Marjanishvili Theater and modern restaurants in old yards.
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OTARA’S SAKHINKLE ‘MOSCITOS’ Otara’s Sakhinkle (a special place for eating Khinkali) ‘Moscitos’ in Tskhneti village - there is no chic design there, moreover one can see newspapers instead of tablecloth, but still, it could be your best and most bizarre -Tbilisian experience, besides wich Otara is regarded as the best Khinklali - maker in the city.
ANCHISKHATI the oldest Orthodox Christian church in Tbilisi, located at #19 Shavteli Street, the right bank of Mtkavi, near the Gabriadze Puppet Theater.
THE REZO GABRIADZE PUPPET THEATER A theatrical castle in the center of Tbilisi, and one of the visit cards of the city. You can also drop in to the adjacent cafe there after enjoying a puppet show within the theater.
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Wooden Balconies of Tbilisi A Voyage into the Past Text: IRMA KAKHURASHVILI
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At the beginning of the 19th century, Tbilisi was more like an Asian city - with narrow streets that were so compact carts hardly could go by, and in muddy weather passersby almost bumped into each other. But the special charm of Old Tbilisi, attracting a plethora of tourists today, can be experienced not only in its narrow streets, but also while viewing old houses, mostly built with stones and bricks. These houses, often two-storey, usually have little, cozy yards and balconies. Tbilisian balconies, wooden, glass, wraparound, open, closed, old, or new, are truly unique and absolutely beautiful. Old Tbilisi’s real soul can be explored in a diversity of wooden balconies. You can often come across houses built in Baroque and Rococo style, but here I will focus on the wooden “hanging” balconies. While strolling from Freedom Square to Sololaki, you can turn whenever you want and follow your intuition. Trust me, you won’t get lost and you should definitely check out the Narikala Fortress, which is seen from every corner, especially in the evening when the city, sparkling, comes alive with various lights. Old Tbilisian houses are not high and their balconies are easy to see. Just imagine that you are now in the very part of the city where two centuries ago joiners and brick-layers passed by to find a job and where village women sold Georgian yoghurt in clay pots. This place was and still remains the heart of Tbilisi. Yogurt is still sold there and modern housewives from wooden balconies, just like a century ago, loudly greet each other to discuss everyday life and the increased price of honey. You can find tiny markets selling products, autumn fruits and vegetables under these tracery wooden balconies. Old
shops have been replaced there by cozy cafes and wine cellars; at open stands you can buy the national sweets Churchkhela and dried fruits. A Tbilisian balcony can also be a place to express benevolence - a host can see an approaching guest from there and loudly greet them. He might enthusiastically tell you the history of his family and of course, would ask you about yours… By the way, these balconied houses have a special smell of old wooden floors. You can come across these beautiful true Tbilisian balconies near Betlemi Street and Bread (Puris) Square; real architectural masterpieces are also located in Tsikhisubani, Kldisubani and in the Kala area. You also have an opportunity to see such balconies along the street leading up to the Botanical Garden; despite these being reconstructions, they still maintain their unique charm. Neighboring houses of Old Tbilisi also have glass galleries and balconies on the inner side - a perfect place to entertain guests, sip wine and catch a glimpse of picturesque views. Often, Tbilisian balconies have a round shape and surround a building corner. Such a balcony can be found in Sololaki, on the corner of Dadiani and Asatiani streets. This balcony is two hundred years old with a beautiful balustrade and columns which were processed with such mastery that the balcony was awarded special architectural status. Apart from this, it was a very special place, where the boundaries of Old Tbilisi once ran. The Darejani Palace above Wine Rise also has an attractive round balcony which, like a swallow nest, beautifies one of the fulcrums of a tower and can be observed from many parts of the old town. 15
THE ORIENTAL PEARLS OF TBILISI Text: IRMA KAKHURASHVILI
An Egyptian mummy and a sarcophagus, delicate Chinese paintings on rice paper, majestic swords of Samurai, colorful portraits by unknown Iranian masters and decorative jade items - and that’s not even a full list of the Oriental Arts Collection which can be seen in the Georgian National Museum at #3 Rustaveli Avenue.
The Oriental Arts Department of the Georgian Art Museum was established in 1954 and was periodically enriched with purchased as well as collected objects from archeological expeditions. But, due to the bleak conditions of the museum at the time, this remarkable collection found its home in the Georgian National Museum several years ago.
The Oriental Collection is placed in three different areas: the first hall represents Egyptian art, in the second you can view the Iranian collection and the third hall houses ancient objects of the Japanese and Chinese cultures.
Today, the vast collection of Oriental art attracts a lot of visitors. Indeed, it is difficult not to pay attention to such antique objects as the mummy of Egyptian priestess Takharus, dating back to the VI century BC, and a sarcophagus from the XI-X centuries BC with remains of paintings of two chronological layers. It is also interesting to view ancient remains of textiles in tapestries and carpet techniques made by Christian Egyptians Copts, with motives of vine leaves, animals and St. George.
Studies into the Oriental Arts began two centuries ago and provoked huge interest in Georgia. Some art works were gathered in the Caucasian Museum by the Georgian Literacy and Geographical - Ethnographical societies; some objects were donated from nobility families.
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The second hall of the museum “breathes” Iranian soul and is more focused on lyrical paintings from the Qajar period: oil canvases of lightly dressed dancer women and lovers, created by unknown masters during the reign of Mohammad Shah (1834-1848) and Fath - Ali Shah (1798-1834). These works of art are distinctive, more decorative and far from the artistic-realistic European tendencies of that time. Two paintings, created in a different manner are also sure to catch your eye. According to art experts, the two works belong to the Georgian - Persian Painting School of the XVIII-XIX centuries. The reverse paintings on glass: “Birds,” “Portrait of Youth,” “A Scene of Photographers” also have a very delicate look. In the Chinese and Japanese area are displayed ceramics with Cobalt painting, original ritual objects, decorated weapons, paintings on silk and many others. Here you can also see a Natsuke with little figurines - an inseparable part and attribute of Kimono. Don’t pass by the Samurai armament and a Katana sword with its scabbard. An Emper-
or’s gown often worn by Sing Dynasty governors for their parade portraits is a remarkable exponent of the collection too. The gown has a five-finger monster in the center - a guarding symbol of emperors. The real pride of the collection is two Chinese vases of the XIV-XV centuries brought here from Iran. There are only several such vases in the world. These items, with special hallmarks, were donated by Shah Abbas I to the Sheikh Safi Mausoleum, one of the religious centers of Iran. The Oriental collection also presents a number of jade figures. Regarded more precious than gold and silver in China, people used to make delicate items and statues of gods from jade. Finally, you should not miss the real pearl of the exposition - the XVII century painting on silk which was owned by the first Chinese family in Georgia. The family lived in Chakvi, Adjara, and was specially invited at the end of the XIX century to establish tea culture in Georgia.
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From Georgian Urban Stories...
DR. LOVE
and his
Creative
Street Art
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Dr. Love (born in 1985 as Bacha Khoperia) started to work with stencil art in 2010. Over the years he has become increasingly popular, with murals popping up all over Tbilisi. He mostly creates multi-layer, color graffiti and textual murals based on pop-cultural references of humor or of a critical context. Most of his graffiti paintings can be found in Georgia’s capital, but he is also the author of the biggest graffiti located in Batumi, Adjara (“Selfie”). Apart from being a graffiti artist, he is also a programmer and musician. Dr. Love participated in “Upfest,” Europe’s largest street art festival in the United Kingdom earlier this year, where his graffiti was highly praised and currently occupies a wall in Bristol. A number of online art pages have named his mural on the subject of air pollution in its top 10 list of extremely creative street art.
Text: NINO GVALIA
WHY DID YOU CHOOSE TO FOCUS ON STREET ART WHICH IS KIND OF AN “EXOTIC FRUIT” FOR GEORGIA EVEN NOW? This culture is still odd for Georgia and local society is not actively involved in it, so that was what influenced me to choose this direction; to make some changes and express myself in this urban culture which is comfortable and familiar to me.
WHAT INSPIRES YOU MOST WHEN CHOOSING A THEME? I have no concrete formula; I might react to an active theme or issue, or, on the contrary, I might go beyond and do something totally different.
HAVE ANY SPECIFIC ARTISTS INFLUENCED YOU? No-one specific. There are people who are influenced by their favorite artists or musicians and there are people who try to avoid any influences and are kind of locked away from it all. I, myself, always try to find something new, to expand my knowledge and, consequently, these searches for information influence me, but the main thing is not to lose individuality and to take advantage of various sources of information.
HAVE YOU COME ACROSS ANY PROBLEMS WHILE WORKING OUTSIDE, ANY SORT OF “WHY ARE YOU DAMAGING A WALL, BRO…?” Yes, it’s happened several times, but not the police, just ordinary passersby or local residents. They react differently, you never know… It happens not only in Georgia, but even in other countries where street art is much more popular.
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Tell us about your western experience. Your painted wall in Bristol was a huge success. How do you remember that trip? Street art is primary linked with travelling and each voyage can give lots of information, experience and inspiration. I remember my British trip as a positive experience. Upfest is the largest urban festival in Europe, featuring approximately 300 artists, and it was a brilliant chance to be part of it and of course, I’m really happy my work was distinguished among the graffiti of other renowned urban artists.
What’s ahead for Dr.Love? Do you plan any interesting projects in Georgia or internationally? Yes, there are some projects ahead and we already started to implement them. We’re about to open the first graffiti shop and studio “Fabrikaffiti” where artists can buy colors and other materials, create their artworks in the studio, display them for sale, or organize exhibitions. Also, we arranged the first graffiti festival “Fabrikaffiti 2016” this year, featuring 40 artists. I hope this number will go up next year and bring together both local and international artists.
How do you see yourself in 20 years, again outside near a mural? Why not? But 20 years is quite a way away. We all remember the situation in Georgia 20 years ago, and today we are opening new art spaces and galleries. I’m sure after 20 years our country will be ahead, but of course, everything is up to us.
From your perspective, what are those must-see places that should be visited by guests to Georgia? I would recommend they visit those places which have maintained authenticity and lack artificial elements for attracting tourists. Luckily, we have a number of such true places throughout Georgia. In Tbilisi, I would advise to our guests to visit “Fabrika” (a contemporary art space).
What could be a soundtrack for our city? I have no concrete association, but I think white noise would perfectly fit Tbilisi today.
In which color would you dye Tbilisi? I would make it green (with the direct understanding of this word).
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SHOPPING
CHAOS In Tbilisi, Or Tbilisi’s New Concept Store 22
Text: NINO GVALIA / Photo: ANA BOKO
A minimalistic style with modern elements, where an old Soviet kiosk is used as a cashbox and where one can find a skate ramp in the corridor, a ping pong table at the entrance and an exhibition hall with lemon - yellow walls: it is Tbilisi’s new concept store ‘Chaos,’ located in the popular Rooms Hotel in a former publishing house building on Kostava Street. As well-known Georgian model Nini Nebieridze, one of the founders of Chaos Concept, says, she, together with Salome Bezarashivli, Gola Damian and Nino Bochorishvili, decided to arrange a store in Tbilisi to reflect the spirit of the 21st century with its alternative, new punk and skater style. She says ‘Chaos’ is not only a store, but a modern space for young people to hang out in and also to promote young artists and give them an opportunity to arrange their shows in the lemon - yellow exhibition space. Despite Chaos Concept opening only recently - in June 2016, it already has regular clientele and people interested in the modern trends of fashion. There, you can find numerous well-known brands, including: House of Holland, Shrimps, Aton Belinskiy, Alpha Industries, Wood Wood and many more, as well as the works of Georgian designers: Gola Damian, George Keburia, Nicolas Grigorian, LTFR and Nik O Nik. In adition, Chaos Concept store also produces its own brand. The concept store is also set to open a second branch in multifunctional creative venue ’Fabrika’ soon. Tbilisi offering another chance to revolutionize views and offer something interesting for individual tastes!
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INTERVIEW
“Art is a Tribune for me” Rocko Iremashvili
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Text: IRMA KAKHURASHVILI In his art works, be it painting, video or stainless steel, you can feel a magnetic synthesis of social protest, sarcasm, vanity and compassion. Each of Rocko Iremashvili’s projects inspires you to be involved in a process of permanent thinking. The artist is distinguished not only with his sharply expressed individuality and unusual performances, but also with aspiration to experiment in visual arts. For him, art is not an isolated sphere with didactic functions, but an organic part of daily life.
You spent several years in Stuttgart State Art Academy as a DAAD scholarship student, how do you remember your European experience? Did it cause any changes in you? After graduating the Art and Humanities Faculty of Tbilisi State University, I did not paint for some time. I had a diploma at 21, but no inner experience; neither a studio, nor professionalism. At that time I was interested in cloisonné enamel, iconography and also in other techniques. When I first appeared in my class in Germany, my question was: what should I do? A response came back simply: ‘You should do what you want’ and I really appreciated that idea. 25
While in Germany, color was ‘washed out,’ painting clichés disappeared slowly and were displayed with a thematic thinking. I had my studio and could work on myself. There was a creative atmosphere in the academy and not only an educational process, which helps to open creativity in an artist. I remember once a Dusseldorf Art Academy professor told me that the main thing is to smell the art in the process of learning. It may sound banal, but it’s true - it is very important to experience and to be poisoned with that aroma, but you should become a part of this space without losing your individuality.
Do you smell it in Georgia? Me and Sopo Cherkezishvili worked with master - degree students in 2010 - 2013 and we really tried our best to create this aroma. In spite of many gaps in the Georgian educational system, it is still possible to notice some promising ‘islands’.
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I think that after graduating the Art Academy, a student should have a scholarship for a one-year rehabilitation period in order to survive as an artist. It is up to the government to take care of and promote talented artists.
You have implemented a number of interesting art projects, both in Germany and Georgia. Which exhibition was the most significant for you this year? It’s a real bonus for me to have a contractor gallery in Germany, promoting my exhibitions and catalogues. I’ve been in contact with that gallery since I was a student. I will highlight a large - scale exhibition in Hannover Modern Art Gallery held this year; it got very good press and was dedicated to modern variations of biblical themes. My recent Georgian projects are connected with curator Nino Gujabidze and we have implemented a number of interesting projects since 2010.
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Most of your works have a tragic shade – is it an echo of social themes that are often used in your art; or is just reflecting your inner condition? Art is not an entertaining theme and is a result of serious thinking. I can say I’m not a tragic person, but I was brought up and live in this environment and, naturally, problems around me touch my soul. Art is a tribune for me, for expressing my protest or attitude. Unfortunately, art is not taught in schools and lots of people in Georgia say that they don’t understand art at all… It’s important to talk about modern art with children and show them that art is not an isolated sphere, but an organic part of our daily live, just like cinematography or music.
You use different material in your art… I like to work with three dimensions. Clay is one of my favorites and while working in this material, I get the feeling that I’m closer to my origins and myself. Now I’m working with stainless steel on a sculptor of Irakli Charkviani (iconic Georgian rock musician) together with sculptor Valo Imerlishvili. Not long ago my project Shalva Kikodze sculpture (Georgian expressionist painter) won a competition.
What is the main source of inspiration for you? It could be a little detail or a global problem. A person lives in a local environment, but can’t escape global themes and there is a tiny bounder between micro and macro worlds.
Is there a chance to see your exhibition this year? I really want to make one personal show ‘Fatal Threads’. The main concept of the exhibition is what kind of threads can be experienced before birth, after birth and before the death of a person.
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Profession: Artist Text: NINO GVALIA Photo: ANA BOKO
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He was only three years old when he created his first painting, years have passed and now at 61, Kakha Gigauri is regarded as a very talented artist with sharply expressed individuality. The Gigauris are from Khevsureti, the beautiful and isolated mountainous region of Georgia, so, like many other Khevsurians, the artist does not like to talk too much, but his paintings end up doing it instead of him. A refined and sophisticated technique, nice colors, and beautiful processed frames, which are also made by the artist and are essential elements of his paintings, shortly describes Gigauri’s art works. But, of course, these words are not enough and people interested in art should view these paintings by themselves to fully experience his majestic world. As the artist says, he puts his whole energy into his works and when starting to paint, the drawing itself gives him direction and inspiration. Gigauri, however, is more focused on technique and exploring colors than on concrete themes. As for materials, he can use everything, ‘even blood,’- he says, smiling and adding that artists are really bizarre and crazy people. 33
The painter works almost every day and is extremely dedicated to his art, but, apart from drawing, he is a good singer, an enthusiastic billiard-player and an award-winning wrestler. Gigauri’s works are more exhibited abroad, and he is equally well - known in Russia. He has been awarded prestigious prizes and a number of his paintings are preserved in private collections. Kakha Gugauri runs his art studio ‘Gigauri’ on the first floor of the Tbilisi History Museum Karvasla in Old Tbilisi. The painter is almost always at his studio in the daytime, so you can drop in to Karvasla, check out Gigauri’s works, maybe exchange a word or two with him and also view the process how these paintings are brought to life.
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CULINARY
Baia’s
Wine
Text: MAKA TSKHVEDIANI Obcha village in Baghdadi district is three hours from Tbilisi. It is a village unable to stop the exodus of young people to the capital, but which still preserves its traditions of winemaking. 22-year-old Baia Ghvaladze is working on her Master’s degree in Public Administration and works in the field of Ethnic Minority Integration in the ‘Civic Integration Foundation. Baia is also trying to continue her family traditions of winemaking. ‘Baia’s Wine’ was first produced last year in December and it is the first serious step of a young lady winemaker. Since then Baia has become more active and apart from winemaking she also tries to promote wine tourism in Imereti Region which is less popular from this perspective.
OBCHA AND UNKNOWN TBILISI “My parents are teachers and work in the village school; I have a 16-year-old brother and 20-year-old sister. We realized from our childhood that work should be divided equally and our whole family is involved when we have
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something to do. It has always been a natural and pleasant process of family obligation and not a heavy load! Working is an inseparable part of village life, just as we drive or buy bread in the city. I did not know Tbilisi at all before becoming a student. I spent my whole childhood in Obcha village with my sister and brother. We visited the city only with our parents and by car. So, when I first arrived here everything was totally new. Time has passed, but traffic and traffic lights still scare me. My key problem was finding streets and now I remember those days positively when I had to ask passersby how to reach this or that street. It’s difficult to live in Tbilisi and feel happy in an urban space. There’s no feeling of freedom and all days are spent in rushing, noise and stress. Even if you’re very wealthy and close to all the city delights, it’s still difficult and everyday life in the city means you lack opportunities to feel certain happiness. What I miss most while being in Tbilisi is calmness and green. When I come home, I gaze at the forest near our house and know I can never be separated from this place!”
OBCHA’S VINEYARDS “Our village has a moderate climate and is very good for winemaking. We produce three types of wines: Tsolikouri which is also known as Obchura; Tsitska-Tsolikouri and Tsiska-Tsolikouri-Krakhuna. Tsiska has a more sour taste and is usually used for sparkling wine. Tsolikouri has a peach aroma and smells like sweet flowers, and Krakhuna is really very delicious with a perfect aroma! We pick grapes all day long and press them in the evening. If it is not pressed, it will start boiling. Pressed grapes need to be stirred three times daily and when it gets colder in winter, it stops boiling and should be put into a vessel stainless steel or glass. Qvevri wine was unpopular in our region and clientele did not like the taste, but now we want to try to make our wine in Qvevri, in order to highlight and popularize its specific aroma. My sister, brother and I have been involved in these activities since childhood. There is lot to do in vineyards, but by the end of August and the whole of September you are free before the harvest. My grandfather, Bondo Ghvaladze, is a winemaker and my uncle has also followed in his footsteps. Their house is located in a less sunny place and consequently the harvest starts later than in our vineyards, so after our harvest, we go to help them. Each season is beautiful in Obcha, but the best is spring! We have lots of plum and peach trees and I love starting them rustling; it’s a moment when I feel that I can never get fed up with this landscape. The end of April and May is the most remarkable period when trees blossom and everything smells so nice that I can hardly imagine such a sweet aroma could exist anywhere on the earth!
PROFESSION – WINEMAKER “After becoming a student, I got seriously interested in winemaking. I missed everything connected with wine in Tbilisi. I also noticed that the motivation of my parents has been slowly reducing in this sphere. It’s difficult to be concentrated in one field when you have a lot to do. So, my aim was to broaden our horizons in winemaking in Tbilisi and provide my parents with more information. ‘Wine Club’ is an organization that arranges a series of lectures about winemaking twice a week, so I became a member of the club and have been attending these lecturers for three years. This was very useful experience and a good opportunity to gain theoretical skills. ‘Wine Club’ also initiates annual wine festivals and both our families are involved in it. The club has discovered us and has
even bottled my uncle’s wine with the name ‘Zurab Ghvaladze’s Tsiska-Tsolikouri.’ It is a really good achievement! We started to bottle our wine in December 2015. I am fully involved in the production and sales process. Having tasted it once, everyone likes our wine. The Georgian Farmers Association and its head, Nino Zambakhidze, have made a big contribution to popularizing our family business. I wrote them that I wanted to become a member and Nino accepted my initiative positively, asking me everything in detail and afterwards putting the information on a social network. As a result, more than 1500 people have sent me their friend requests from different regions of Georgia and even from foreign countries. Journalists have also contacted me.”
FROM DREAM TO PLANS I have lots of aims and at present I plan to learn languages fluently. I was learning German and Russian at school and I started English after becoming a student. And I have good results. I have a dream that my and my uncle’s families are like the families of Italian winemakers. Nowadays, our purpose is to maintain the quality and quantity of our wine. As far as it is our family business, we don’t want it to become a factory in order to reach a larger scale. I also dream of organizing an interesting trip for my parents, somewhere in a foreign country. They have spent all their lives working and I don’t remember a day when my father got up later than 5 or 6 a.m. I think that my biggest achievement at 22 is that my parents and grandparents are really very pleased that I am continuing their traditions. People tell my grandpa that he has a very good granddaughter and he is extremely happy. It is also very pleasant news for me that my sister and brother are very motivated to join me in this business and my brother has even chosen the profession of winemaking and is already a first-year student. I love wine and I am connected with it by a professional link. While tasting wine, I pay attention to its aroma and also what kind of mood it can provoke. An extremely interesting business! I think that you are happy when you do what you love. You should slowly follow your aim and if it’s positive, you are sure to meet people who will give you a hand on your way. I can’t tell you beforehand about my future - whether I will live in Tbilisi or return to Obcha, but one thing that I know for sure is that I plan to be connected to winemaking all my life!
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THE AUTUMN MENU
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Happiness on a Plate for Gaormands Text: DALI TSATAVA Photo: MARIAM TSKITISHVILI Autumn is the time when nature appears like a colorful fairy tale from night-time dreams. This season might be very beautiful in all countries, but the Georgian autumn is the most colorful period of the year, with a mild and pleasant climate, softened sun and rich harvest. The weather gets cooler, leaves turn yellow and fall, nature becomes versatile and so does the menu, which becomes more distinguished, rich and exotic. Bushes are laden with berries and Georgian forests are full of unique curative plants and fruits, usually gathered by Georgians for teas and for various curative tinctures. The list of such plants is long but I will name a few: whitethorns, eglantines, elders, pears and apples, raspberries, blackberries and forest mint. The autumn abundance, in spite of its melancholic colorfulness, does not affect the Georgian mood, well shown during the Kakhetian harvest “rtveli,” and “nadi” in western Georgia - the time when villagers express their gratitude to God for the rich harvest. This ceremony is always followed by the Georgian feast “supra”, an essential element of the Georgian culture consisting of wine, bread, a toast-master and toasts. The Georgian feast is also distinguished with a versatile and rich menu - a real exhibition of Georgian culinary masterpieces: barbequed meat over vine branches, Kakhetian Khashlama (veal and sour plum stew) and the national dessert, warm Tatara (thickened grape juice) with walnuts. In the western part you may get gastronomic delights from a goat boiled in milk or hens roasted on skewers and served with a sauce made of green grapes and blackberries, or Elarji from young cheese and buffalo yoghurt. The autumn is culinary happiness on a plate, and a time for an interesting event and the national celebration of Tbilisi city - “Tbilisoba,” held the last week of October in the capital of Georgia. “Tbilisoba” is an autumn celebration dating back to October 1978. It is regarded as the capital day and the autumn celebration, bringing together autumn gifts from all regions of Georgia. People press grapes, usually accompanied by Georgian singing. This celebration is quite popular outside Georgia, too, and guests try to coincide their visit with this day and taste various culinary masterpieces and purchase different gastronomic souvenirs. It is a well-known fact that if you want to get closer to the culture, economic and agriculture of a country, you should pay a visit to a market there. Each region of Georgia has its specific, interesting and exotic market culture which looks more like those of Asian traditions. Unfortunately, Tbilisi markets have lost their authentic exoticism, but it is still possible to view the country’s good and bad habits and agrarian wealth, more obvious this time of year. Dezertirebi and Navtlughi markets are still very important and popular. It was a kind of ritual in Tbilisi to visit markets with baskets. This tradition, in spite of numerous supermarkets, are still preserved in many families; they have closer communication with villagers and think that products from villages are more organic and healthy. Almost everyone has his “own” villager, to buy this or that product from, for example: sulguni cheese is bought from a farmer from Samegrelo and mountain cheese from a Tushetian villager…
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Each Georgian product is interesting for its geography. In ancient times, Georgian kings ordered wedding piglets in Samegrelo and pigs for barbeque in Kakheti. If you are about to buy potatoes, the best option is to purchase potatoes from Tsalka, Akhaltsikhe and Bolnisi. If you want to enjoy the special taste of tomatoes, than you have to buy them from Dighomi or Choporti. The tastiest cucumbers grow in Lagodekhi or Dedoplistskaro. The real Georgian onion with a shining gold color comes from the region of Kartli. Regarding fruits, Kartli is rich in different varieties of apples, peaches and plums. Kakhetian vineyard peaches don’t look so pretty, but are really very tasty. Beans from Dusheti are delicious, vegetables and greens from Kutaisi, Tskaltubo and Marneuli, walnuts from Racha, pumpkin from Guria and Samegrelo; Abasha and Martvili are famous for corn; citrus and kiwi are most appetizing from Adjara and Abkhazia. Wine - the national pride and the Christian symbol of Georgia - is most famous in Kakheti, of course, it grows in Kartli and western Georgia, too, but still, the best grape varieties: Rkatsiteli, Kakhuri Mtsvane, Saperavi, Qisi and much more are cultivated in Kakheti. Wine is made in the autumn in Qvevri (a clay vessel) following an old Georgian tradition. 40
This method was given the status of intangible heritage by UNESCO in 2013. The autumn menu is also distinguished with different spices - the natural ingredients, making dishes so special and scrumptious. Can you imagine Georgia’s pride Satsivi without blue fenugreek, dried coriander, dried marigold, cloves and cinnamon? Mint, basil, savory, celery, fennel, tarragon, coriander, saffron - are must-have seasonings in all Georgian families. These herbs are dried in the autumn and preserved for the winter. The autumn is also time for preserving cheese for the winter. There are approximately 50 cheese varieties in Georgia. Some recipes have been lost and but some of them have been already restored. “The Georgian Cheese Celebration” a very important event of restoring the cultural heritage has also been held in recent years. Sulguni, the “queen” cheese of Samegrelo, is dried in smoke in the autumn, while in Svaneti it was dried in the air, and as a result it kept its fat and wonderful aroma. This technology has been restored. Alvani is a mountainous region famous for its Guda cheese. A real explosion of tastes is to have a piece of Guda cheese made in the autumn, with fresh tarragon and Georgian bread in the spring.
Beef, veal, pork, and chicken-meat is also smoke-dried for winter. It is a period of making Kupati (a type of Georgian sausage) and traditional Rachvelian ham - one of the many distinguished Georgian delicacies. Wheat and wine are the most familiar products for Georgians and, consequently, Georgia is regarded as one of the homelands of wine and bread. The popular beans, tomatoes and potatoes appeared in Georgia in the XVI century and have become native for the Georgian menu: “Kakhetian beans,” “Gurulian Kirkazhi,” “Megrelian beans” and fresh beans with walnuts are one of the essential dishes in the autumn menu. Dishes with tomatoes are also very favored here: the popular dish Chakhokhbili is made with tomatoes, but the original one was made with roasted pheasant in pomegranate juice. As for potatoes, you can see fried round potatoes dressed with fennel almost all year around, as the garnish for meat or just a snack. Khinkali has no season here and just one word that they originate from Mongolia or China might cause offense to Georgians because khinkali is regarded as one of the symbols of the Georgian culinary culture. There are many varieties of khinkali - with mutton, beef, with mix of pork and beef, khinkali with dried meat of goose, or with cheese, mushrooms, potatoes… An ideal khinkali should have at least 28 creases, a symbol of sun rays and the number 28 itself is also a sacral number; consequently, this dish is regarded as a ritual food. Khinkali is considered a mountain dish, where beer was more popular than wine, so it is usually accompanied with beer and eaten by hand. It is also very important to sip the yummy hot juice from khinkali, without spilling it on your plate. It holds one of the most honorable places among the most delicious dishes in Georgia, but khinkali with mutton and dressed with mountain herbs in Pasanauri has an out of the ordinary taste that you will never forget!
Sunflower oil is distilled in the autumn in Kakheti. It is one of the Georgian brands - very healthy and consisting of lots of minerals which makes Georgian salad of tomatoes and cucumbers awesome. “Beet with tkemali sauce,” “Eggplant satsivi,” “Kezhera pkhali with walnuts” and different variations of vegetables with spices and herbs are very common and popular cold dishes for the season as well. In already cool weather you can take gastronomic delights from different soups, such as “Chikhirtma” (a kind of chicken soup) with mint, “Imeretian mushroom soup” and “Mulberry Chriantela”. Regarding pastry, the Georgian pride, khachapuri, has no season and almost every restaurant serves the different sorts of khachapuri - Megrelian, Gurulian with an egg, Imeretian and Adjarian. We have a really wide choice of pastry with fillings in Georgia. Nothing compares with a piglet grown on Georgian corn, you should definitely taste roasted piglet in Tone (Georgian bakery) with different sauces: “Bazhe,” “Khardali,” “Isrimi” or green and red Adjika. Autumn is the right time for sweet dishes too: roasted pumpkin with honey, tatara or pelamushi (thickened grape juice) and tasty desserts - walnut, fig and watermelon rind jams made according to grandma’s recipes. In a nutshell, the Georgian autumn is distinguished with a wonderful palette of colors which should be viewed, tasted and felt. The many-voiced beating heart of autumn can be heard like the Georgian polyphonic folk music itself and experienced in the context of its sheer material and non-material culture.
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Versatile Georgia
Text: VAKHO BABUNASHVILI
Photo Credit: The Digital Photo Chronicles “IVERIELI”
Having thought for a little while, I decided to talk about Georgia, a country which can be described with only one word: “bizarre”. This country is bizarre for its long, intricate history and culture as well as for its ethnical, regional and religious diversities within such a small area of land. There are also differences in culinary aspirations, in languages, dialects and characters. I am not sure if there is another such small country (only 64,000 square meters) with a small population (approximately 5 mln) and with such differences, but this one; this Georgia, is united with one common “Georgian” uniqueness. I am inviting you on this unusual journey with my virtual friend, an adventurer, researcher and a culinary specialist, Grigol Kondriskatsi. Together with him, I will try to show you hidden and “untouristy” Georgia with the help of letters, addressed to Grigol’s wife and written by him during his travels. Let’s start with Samegrelo, a region of mysteries, like the whole country itself. Samegrelo has a very special charm - everything is a bit different here, even the language.
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Megrelian is a Kartvelian language, different from Georgian. Here, nature and cuisine differ from other regions. Megrelians were always close to the sea and regard themselves as grandchildren of Colchis. Yes, indeed, it is a place where the Argonauts arrived in an antic era, it was a place governed by Aieti and Medea!
day, everything was beautiful and aromatic. A royal wedding was taking place here and the daughter of the governor of Samegrelo, the Megrelian Princess Salome Dadiani, and the nephew of the Emperor of France, Achille Murat, had their wedding ceremony in the church. Achille was 21 years old and Salome a year younger.
If a person is smart, he will say that he had a Megrelian grandmother. My grandma was also Megrelian, her last name was Gegechkori. People with this last name were very talented and every generation had one or two prominent representatives. Nothing changes.
That old friend of mine, well-off merchant, Maecenas and traveler-anthropologist, Grigol Kondriskatsi attended the ceremony and this is how he recalls the day in his famous memoirs “Letters of a Traveler:”
Megrelians are evaluated as, smart and flexible people. Many famous people come from this region, bad and good, but fact is that it is a truly distinguished place, with remarkable stories and secrets. Megrelian love affairs are also very special and renowned, such as that of Dadiani-Murat. It was a warm day in Paris on May 18, 1868. Bells were ringing in the Russian Orthodox Church. As if the nature and trees were specially prepared for the
“The Dadianis have governed Samegrelo, the southern province of Georgia, for a long time. I can prove that the women there are really very beautiful. I saw the Megrelian Queen and her young son, accompanied by a splendid retinue dressed in traditional Georgian costumes. I saw also the young princess Salome Dadiani for the first time. She looks like her mother in her beauty. Achille Murat, Salome’s sweetheart, was there, too.
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The princess was graceful and attractive, just like her mother. The atmosphere was both calm and larky at the same time. As I was told, before her marriage, the princess stayed in the hotel “Louvre,” where the high society of France would gather. The wedding ceremony was attended by the French Emperor and his spouse. The Monarch of Russia presented 20,000 Francs to the couple and the Emperor granted one million to his nephew and also purchased a beautiful palace for them. The couple received numerous gifts, and guests were invited from different countries. The awesome wedding feast was really imperial.” More from Kondriskatsi on Murat can be found in “A Traveler’s letters to his Spouse:” “Soon after the beginning of the French-Prussian war in 1879, Achille, the adjutant of the French Emperor, was called up for military service. Napoleon III and his adjutant Achille Murat were
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captured and the Parliament of France tore down the French monarchy. After escaping, Murat lost interest in politics and exiled to Samegrelo, his wife’s motherland. He took from France one of the most significant relics of his family, a death mask of Napoleon III which became a museum exponent of the Dadiani Palace. Murat was fascinated by agriculture, and ordered some grape varieties from France, also cultivating the Ojaleshi grape which was near extinction- he made awesome wine from Ojaleshi. His wines became famous in Georgia as well as in Europe. He was a very modest man, working in his vineyards alongside the villagers, as a consequence of which, Georgians loved and much respected him. Murat also tried to improve the living conditions of underclass society by opening schools, laying roads and taking care of poor families. Murat had a chancellery in Zugdidi with a special manager. The prince always kept in touch with France. Everything seemed well and good, but as it turns out, he was suffering from nostalgia.
Nobody knows for sure whether nostalgia was the reason for his death or not, but based on the information from press and other sources, the diligent and self-respected Prince committed suicide in 1895 on the same day the Lumiere brothers showed their first film. The French Prince and representative of the Emperor’s dynasty killed himself far from his homeland, in Chkadua village. Everybody learned about this immediately in Georgia, but the official version claimed the cause of death as a hemorrhage. Prince Achille Murat was buried in a special tomb in the yard of an unfinished Catholic Church. “Achille Murat’s grave next to the church had a blue Hortensia with bird nests flowers nearby and an immense landscape beyond. Widow of the Prince, the beautiful and devoted Princess Salome Dadiani-Murat often visited the place to pray.” Grigol Kondriskatsi spoke more about the Princess in another letter to his spouse: “After the tragic death of her husband, Salome became disillusioned with her homeland and moved to Paris. The once stunning Princess of Samegrelo passed away after a long illness in 1913. This incident had no resonance, neither an obituary, nor condolences. Unfortunately, even the Georgian press did not express a word of sorrow for her passing.”
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PERSONA
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A prominent Georgian film actress, usually playing the screen character of an Ingénue, an innocent and passionate young woman. She started her career in the silent film era and continued to work as an actress during the sound era until her death in a plane crash in 1953. She was one of the first film stars of the Soviet Union and received numerous honors, including the title of People’s Artist of the Georgian Soviet Socialist Republic, and the Stalin prize. Vachnadze was born in Warsaw as Natalia Andronikashvili, the daughter of a Georgian father from the Andronikashvili family, and a Polish mother. She adopted her last name from her first marriage to Merab Vachnadze. Her second marriage was with the film director Nikoloz Shengelaia, with whom she had two sons, the famous film directors Giorgi Shengelaia and Eldar Shengelaia. Although several versions of the story of how she was discovered for film exist, the most popular and likely is that film director Shakro Berishvili noticed her photograph in a photo
studio in Tbilisi. He managed to find her in Kakheti and convinced her to play her debut role in the 1923 adventure film ‘Arsen the Bandit.’ The role of Nunu in the 1923 film ‘Patricide’ and the role of Esma in the 1924 film ‘Three Lives’ made her famous not only in Georgia, but all over the Soviet Union. In these films she played the role of an innocent and passionate young woman. Later on, theater and film director Kote Marjanishvili gave Vachnadze two challenging roles in the experimental films ‘The Gadfly’ and ‘Amok.’ Already regarded as an international star, Nato Vachnadze played the gypsy woman Masha in the German-Soviet film ‘The Living Corpse.’ Unusual for Soviet cinema, most of her films were steamy melodramas in which she acted with considerable passion and emotion. The writer Viktor Shklovsky described her as “an artiste of the American type because her value lies in the purity of her ethnographic type”.
NIKOLOZ SHENGELAIA (1901 -1943) A Georgian playwright and film director, futurist poet and an honored artist of Russia. Shengelaia was famous for his creativity, dynamic shots, mastery of montage, and cinematic thinking, refined with temperament and poetry. He was the first to initiate the organizational bureau of the Cinematography Association in Georgia. As a film director, he debuted with ‘Giuli’ in 1927, where the tragic role of a young woman was played by his wife Nato Vachnadze. Shengelaia’s most distinguished film is ‘Eliso,’ based on Alexander Kazbegi’s novel, shot in 1928. In 1937, the film director shot ‘An Orange Field’ which was one of Stalin’s favorite films, and in 1941 Shengelaia received a Stalin Prize. His sons Eldar and Giorgi Shengelaia have followed in their father’s footsteps and are also famous film directors.
The photo is kept in the Georgian State Museum of Theatre, Music, Cinema and Choreography
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Cultural Events Line Up
Pope Francis paid a visit to Georgia at the end of Sep-
tember. The Pope spent two days in Georgia in the scope of his Caucasian tour.
Literature Premium ‘Saba’ Award Ceremony in Chateau Mukhrani
Chateau Mukhrani hosted its annual award ceremony of literature ‘Saba’ where the best literature works were nominated.
THEATRICAL SOCIETY AT ‘THE MARRIAGE OF MARIA BROUN’ From September 24 to October 8, theater-lovers attended the Tbilisi International Theater Festival. One of the most interesting performances from the lineup was ‘The Marriage of Maria Broun,’ directed by Thomas Ostermeier. The story of Maria Braun starts as Germany is sinking into defeat, and ends when West Germany wins the football World Cup. This ferocious portrait of post war Germany shows a society which, in order to forget its crimes and defeat, eagerly seeks the comfort money can buy.
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The Best Translation of the Year - Tamar Japaridze’s ‘The French Lieutenant’s Woman’ by John Fowles (Publishing House - Diogene) The Best Novel - ‘Fugitives from Paradise’ by Beka Qurkhuli (Publishing House -Intellect) and ‘Predictive Unexpectedness’ by Zurab Samadashvili (Publishing House - Glosa) The Best Poetic Volume - Besik Kharanauli’s ‘A Raven will spend an Evening on the Top of a Tree’ (Publishing House - Intellect) The Best Foreign Translation of Georgian Literature Work Lyn Coffin ‘The Knight in Panther’s Skin.’ The ‘Saba’ Prize for Contribution to Literature was handed to Georgian Poet, Tariel Chanturia.
16-22 SEPTEMBER - Tbilisi Becomes a Capital of PHOTOGRAPHY TBILISI PHOTO FESTIVAL Week 2016 brought together the works of more than 300 photographers. The festival opening was held at Tbilisi MOMA and featured 11 exhibitions of Japanese photographers. Japanese photography is quite wellknown at Europe’s prestigious festivals and on exhibition platforms, joined by Georgia and the South Caucasian region for the first time this year. The Tbilisi photo exhibition put together the works of Arata Dodo, Aia Fujioka, Miho Kajioka, Hajime Kimura, Eriko Koga, Kazuma Obara, Naouki Ogino, Koji Onaka, Shieko Shiraishi, Motohido Takeda and Aio Iamauchi.
The most central and attention-grabbing event was “Photography Night” held outdoors in Old Tbilisi. The works of more than 300 photographers, among them local and regional artists, were presented by 20 foreign photo agencies and periodical publications and institutions, including: Lensculture, Magnum, National Geographic, FotoEvidence, Noor, and others. Modern photography star Yusuf Sevincli from Turkey also took part in the 2016 photo festival. With a Photo - Camera from the Iran-Iraq border The Georgian National Museum hosted the photo exhibition ‘The Other Iran’ by Natela Grigalashvili. The exhibition featured photos describing her impressions from the Iran-Iraq border - a battlefield during the war between the two countries.
TBILISI 1ST INTERNATIONAL SUMMIT OF CRAFT AND DESIGN The 1st Tbilisi International Summit of Craft and Design was the first international gathering of crafts makers, designers, entrepreneurs, retailers and experts in the South Caucasus region. The Summit was held on September 23-25, 2016 and offered a unique chance for local and international craftsmen to present market-oriented national products to experts, buyers and a wider audience, to establish new business contacts and to promote Georgian and South Caucasian crafts to the global markets. DEA KULUMBEGASHVILI’S SHORT FILM LETHE Dea Kulumbegashvili’s award-winning short film ‘Lethe,’ after Romania and Spain, will be included in
the contest program of the Thess International Short Film Festival in Greece. The film was shot in Lagodekhi and consists of just five long scenes. The main part is performed by Misha Gomiashvili and the film brings together approximately 50 people, mostly actors of the Lagodekhi Theater. The director did not apply to the Georgian National Film Center for financial support because she was rejected twice before. In order to make this film a Georgian-French coproduction, Kulumbegashvili partly financed it from her own budget. The world premiere of Lethe took place at the Cannes Film Festival in May.
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21 - 25 OCTOBER IS THE TIME OF THE DOCUMENTARY FILM FESTIVAL IN TBILISI!
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o s isi oris li l i a TberTaSstiv sa nofe ki
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1- 0w4.tbilisifilmfes 1 . 8 2 ww
TELAVINO 2016 Initiated by the Kakheti Wine Guild, the beautiful city of Telavi hosted the Wine Festival ‘Telavino 2016’ on September 30. This event as per tradition, was held at the end of the harvest and presented more than a hundred different types of wine, vodka and other drinks along with traditional Georgian dishes. ‘Telavino 2016’ provided its guests with opportunities to have free tastings, buy discounted wine and enjoy a great atmosphere of folk music and dances as well as contemporary music bands. The Kakheti Wine Guild brings together the best and most successful wine companies of the region, aiming to promote Georgian wine culture, increase awareness by establishing a wine school in the near future and developing wine tourism.
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CinéDOC-Tbilisi 2016 is the fourth edition of the only international documentary film festival in the Caucasus. The film screenings will take place in the movie theaters Amirani and Rustaveli, in the Frontline Club, and the Goethe Institute Tbilisi.
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SIGHNAGHI Kakheti is often associated with awesome wine and the
majestic slopes of the Caucasian mountains. This region is home to various landmarks, but in order to fully feel its charm, you should definitely visit Sighnaghi, the “Museum Town” that sits proudly atop the Cold Gombori Mountains. With good touristic infrastructure, comfy hotels and cozy restaurants oriented to gourmet family food, Sighnaghi is a wonderful place to spend the weekend. The city has kept its authentic historical and architectural look- narrow and cobbled streets follow a slope and houses are located on terraces. House roofs dating back to the XIX century also add special charm to the city. Sighnaghi is one of Georgia’s smallest and most beautiful tourist centers. With a population of approximately 2,000 people, the city and its surroundings are picturesque with their stunning landscapes, historical monuments, wine cellars and the Ethnographic Museum. One of Sighnaghi’s best-loved features is the longest fortress-wall in Georgia (4.5 km long), which harmonically blends in with the urban space. Sighnaghi fortress is the biggest among the historical buildings of Georgia, spread across 40 hectares in an uneven location, following as it does the mountain relief, before slipping down into the deep ravine. In historical sources Sighnaghi as a town first appears in accounts
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of the XVIII century. Before this, the territory was known as Kambechovani and later Kiziki. There was no serfdom in Kiziki and people subordinated only to a king. It is very interesting to visit St. Stephan’s church (1762) in Sighnaghi, built into the tallest tower of the wall, from which you can enjoy a splendid view of the city and Alazani Valley. In Sighnaghi’s Archeological-Ethnographic Museum, located at # 8 Rustaveli Cul-de-Sac, you can check out paintings of the world-famous Georgian primitivist painter Niko Pirosmani. The artist was from Kakheti and his art, especially in its first phase, was inspired by the region. At different times the same museum has hosted exhibitions of Pablo Picasso, John Wurdeman and Lado Gudiashvili. And don’t miss a chance to visit Sighnaghi’s Wedding House, a beautiful architectural monument which was built in the XIX century. Sighnaghi is also home to various folk festivals throughout the year. There are a number of remarkable cafes and restaurants in Sighnaghi, often serving gourmet dishes made of organic products. There are also over ten hotels suitable for all types and tastes of visitors.
BODBE This Georgian monastery complex is located 2 km from Sighnaghi. Originally built in the IX century, it has been significantly remodeled, especially in the XVII century. The monastery now functions as a nunnery and is one of the major pilgrimage sites in Georgia due to its association with St. Nino, the 4th century enlightener of Georgia, whose relics are enshrined there. Kakhetian Kings were sanctified in Bodbe and since XVII century it has been famous as a religious - spiritual center and a book depository. Bodbe is a beautiful monastery complex nestled among perennial cypress, walnut and lime trees. One can also can catch a glimpse of the magnificent Alazani Valley and Caucasus Mountains. The complex has its own farm, needlework and icon-painting workshops.
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6 IN KAKHETI MONUMENTS
Of Cultural Heritage
GREMI - Kvareli district. The XVI century architectural monument of royal citadel and the church of the Archangels. The complex is what has survived from the once flourishing town, which in the XVI and XVII centuries served as the capital of Kakheti in which Persian literature was translated. The lively trading and flourishing town of Gremi, famous for its living complexes, royal residence and bath - houses was razed to the ground by the armies of Shah Abbas I of Persia in 1615 and the town never regained its previous prosperity. GURJAANI KVELATSMINDA - Gurjaani district.
A unique monument of Georgian architecture of the VII century. It is the only church to have two domes. As legend claims, the Virgin Mary made miracles in the church and curative milk flowed from the walls. At present it is a monastery for monks.
NEKRESI - Kvareli District. The monastery complex of the IV - VI centuries is currently At present a monastery of monks functions there. The town was established by King Pharnajom around the II - I centuries BC. In the IV century AD, King Thrdat built a church in this place, which is one of the oldest Christian churches in Georgia. Nekresi was a spiritual, enlightening and politically significant center of Georgia. 54
GAREJI - Sagarejo district. A rock
- hewn monastery complex of the VI XVIII centuries, Gareji is located on the half-desert slopes and is the biggest complex in Georgia. It was founded by the Assyrian Father David Garejeli. Besides architecture, Gareji is famous for its beautiful and unique froscoes. The monastery was often raided.
KHORNABUJI - Dedoplistskaro
district. Ruins of a fortress and dramatic landscape. In historical sources it first emerged in the V century. Khornabuji always had an immense strategic importance and was the center of Kambechovani.
KVARELI FORTRESS - Dating back
to the XVI - XVII centuries, this fortress is situated on the plains, surrounded by tunnels and having a quadrangular shape.
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TELAVI - THE HEART OF KAKHETI What to see in and around Telavi. The territory of Telavi has been populated since the Bronze Age. Prior to that, this place was home to beautiful, strong elm trees (in Georgian ‘tela’), hence the settlement was named ‘Telavi.’ At present, Telavi is a modern town, with lots of interesting venues and beautiful sights.
THE GIORGI CHUBINASHVILI TELAVI STATE HISTORY AND ETHNOGRAPHY MUSEUM
BY CAR:
CHOLOKASHVILI STREET
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Kutaisi International Airport – Telavi - 345 km. 4 hr. 15min.
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Tbilisi International Airport – Telavi - 80 km. 1 hr.
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Batumi International Airport – Telavi - 465 km. 5 hr. 45min.
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Founded in 1927 and situated in the halls of King Erekle II’s palace, it houses a fascinating photo collection depicting old Telavi.
One of the most beautiful and authentic streets in Telavi.
BATONI CASTLE (EREKLE II AVENUE) Dating back to 1667, it consists of the palace of Kakhetian kings, various royal churches, a castle wall, a bath-house and a tunnel situated on the territory of the palace.
NADIKVARI PARK
THE MUSEUM OF ALEXANDRE CHAVCHAVADZE
One of the landmarks of Telavi, with walking trails, a 12-meter long bridge, panoramic views, an open-air theater and an almost 900 year-old giant maple tree, which is one of the oldest attractions of the town. Old and New Shuamta Monasteries - Old Shuamta is 7 km from Telavi and consists of a V century basilica, one of the most beautiful examples of Christian Georgian Architecture. Nearby you can find New Shuamta, with a church of typical Kakhetian architecture, dating back to the XVI century.
The fascinating story of the Museum, to be found in the village of Tsinandali, began in the XVII century when it became home to prominent Georgian poet, Alexandre Chavchavadze - the first Georgian noble to produce and bottle Georgian wine according to European methods. His vineyard has been cultivated to present day and visitors can see a bottle of Saperavi wine from the first harvest in 1839. There are also 16,500 bottles of other sorts of wines. Visitors can also take a walk in the gardens which house more than 100 plant species.
IKALTO MONASTERY
ALAVERDI
It is located in the village of Ikalto, 7-8 km west of Telavi. Ikalto monastery was founded by Saint Zenon, one of the 13 Syrian Fathers, in the late VI century. It was known as one of the most significant cultural-scholastic centers of Georgia and, according to legend, the prominent XII century Georgian poet Shota Rustaveli studied there. Ghvtaeba, Sameba and Kvelatsminda churches have been retained on the monastery territory, each making which make an attractive addition with their white color against a background of green mountains.
the monastery of Alaverdi is located 20 km from Telavi in the stunning Alazani valley against a background of snowy Caucasus Mountains. The monastery was founded by the Assyrian monk Joseph Alaverdeli and consists of a complex that was famed for being a significant educational-spiritual center and a monastery for monks from its foundation. Later it was turned into a nunnery for nuns from royal families At present this beautiful complex is once again a monastery for monks, where one can also taste wine made by the monks, according to Georgian traditions, in Qvevri (a special clay vessel for wine which is on the UNESCO list).
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LAGODEKHI PROTECTED AREAS Photo Credit: Agency of Protected Areas of Georgia
There are 14 state reserves in Georgia with a total area of
140,672 thousand hectares. The first reserve was founded in Lagodekhi district in 1912, which consists of Lagodekhi Reserve and Aghkvetili on the southern slopes of the Caucasus. At present, five breathtaking, safe and informative tourist trails are set up in the reserve of Lagodekhi Protected Areas: Grouse Waterfall, Ninoskhevi Waterfall, Machi Castle, Black Rock Lake and the Knowledge of Nature Trail.
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Lagodekhi is also known for its wildlife, and has been famous for its hunting potential. Major predators include Eurasian lynx, grey wolf, brown bear, and the raptors: bearded vulture, eastern imperial eagle, golden eagle and steppe eagle. Altogether, 150 species of birds, 53 mammals, 5 amphibians, 12 reptiles, and 4 fish species can be found in the reserves; 26 of its plant species and more than 40 of its animals are in the Red Data Book.
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VASHLOVANI PROTECTED AREAS Vashlovani is located in the extreme eastern part of the Dedoplistskaro district. It includes Vashlovani Nature Reserve, National Park and three Natural Monuments - Eagle Gorge, Takhti - Tepa Mud Volcanoes and Kakliskure Alazani floodplain forest. Its area includes the Pantishara - Vashlovani massive which rises up to 300-600 meters above sea level. The name Vashlovani is derived from the natural similarity and disposition of pistachio and apple trees that leaves the association of a fruit garden. Its total area is approximately 35053,7 hectares. The Administration and Visitors Center of the national park is located in Dedoplistskaro. Exhibition and presentation halls are located in the administrative
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building where visitors have the opportunity to become familiar with the specifics of the protected areas, existing tariffs, safety rules and choose the desired travel route. Tourists of Vashlovani Protected Areas have the option of hiking for one or several days. Paths are marked and well-arranged. Bungalows, picnic spots and camping sites are situated along the routes. Sites for setting up a fire are also allocated. The national park offers hiking, geological, biking, photo, cultural and educational tours. For further information about the reserves, check out: http://apa.gov.ge/en/protected-areas
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Text: MAKA TSKHVEDIANI
In 1904, Ilarion Jincharadze finished building his two-storey house in Chkvishi village, Racha. He placed wooden balusters on the balcony, bordered it with wooden lace, made five fireplaces in the rooms and covered the floor with cobble stones. A century has passed and artist Kote Jincharadze has transformed his grandpa’s heredity into an art residence. In 2015, the ten-year anniversary since the establishing of “Arteli-Racha” was marked with the creation of the Visual Art Festival of the region “Artra.”
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Kote Jincharadze, artist: “The creation of Arteli-Racha was a vitally important initiative, in order to activate the local cultural life and promote development for the future generations, located far away from the center. In my opinion, active involvement of youth in art initiatives will help to normalize the cultural situation.” During the last 11 years, contemporary regional center “Arteli - Racha” has welcomed every interested person and provided them with an open space for living and working. More than 300 Georgian and international artists have taken part in workshops held in the art house from 2005 to present.
Kote Jincharadze: “When foreign artists visit Racha, we
try to show them our traditions, folk, nature, architecture and people. They travel to villages, explore the history of Racha and see today’s most urgent problems; they work and afterwards show their artworks to the local population. Artists also hold different trainings and master classes. Each workshop is a kind of cultural dialogue between representatives of different countries and the local population, based on mutual respect and an exchange of interesting experiences.”
ARTRA - 2015 In summer 2015, on the 10-year anniversary of Arteli Racha the first visual art festival “Artra” was held in the Ambrolauri and Oni areas. The works of Georgian and foreign artists created during recent years in the Racha Art Residence were displayed in a gallery and studio, at expositions stands, and on terraces of the building. The works of participant artists and students of Oni and Ambrolauri Art schools were shown in the local mediatheque while an amphitheater hosted screenings of video films and discussions.
The idea of scarecrows also appeared there. In 2015 a contest “The Scarecrow - 2015” was announced in the scope of the visual art festival, the goal of which was to create the most artistic scarecrows. There was no age limit and the only “must” for participation was to be a representative of Ambrolauri or Oni areas. They did not think a lot about material: old trousers, a t-shirt and an old straw hat were completely enough…
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ARTRA - 2016 “Artra” was held this year for the second time with a larger scale and covering the Lentekhi, Tsageri, Oni and Ambrolauri areas. A series of workshops, seminars and exhibitions in Racha Residence were held from June to September and as a conclusion, group - exhibitions will be launched in centers in all four areas. Kote Jincharadze - “Based on experience from the last festival, I think that active collaboration with the local population is very important in order to reach the maximum integration between artists from different areas. Furthermore, master classes of famous art experts, curators and gallerists from Tbilisi play an immense role for young people in refining artistic tastes and gaining professional skills. Apart from this, I was very motivated to involve local kids in the festival, as they have few possibilities in general and very seldom visit theaters or concerts. So, I realized it would be really awesome if these kids could meet foreign children of their age. With this in mind, we invited four Swiss teenagers to hold a one - week workshop. As a result, they became good friends; swam in the river together and went to on interesting excursions. They also visited historical landmarks of Racha. The Ambrolauri 64
Art School hosted a meeting of teachers and pupils. Guests enjoyed an exhibition of paintings and graphics of children of the same age. They really liked Georgian traditional art forms: the cloisonné enamel and tapestries. But, it was just the first step.”
“BETWEEN THE PAST AND THE FUTURE” Kote Jincharadze: “Between the past and the future is our festival concept this year. We are between two realities: the first that fills you with past experience and history, the second beyond us, with thousands of possibilities, opportunities, ideas and desires. Our purpose is to lay a bridge between the past and the future; to create a platform for a dialogue for meeting of traditions and novelties, old and modern visions, and to prepare for future challenges.” “Artra” was closed at the end of September but, around 20 scarecrows, as memories from the last festival, will go on protecting cornfields throughout Racha.