Andrew Harper's Hideaway Report October 2016 by Andrew Harper

OCTOBER 2016 | Our 38th Year

AndrewHarper.com

PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

T R AV E L I N G T H E W O R L D I N S E A R C H O F T R U LY E N C H A N T I N G P L A C E S

M E M O R A B L E W I N E S , D E L I C I O U S C U I S I N E , I DY L L I C L A N D S C A P E S

Cruising the Waterways of Burgundy

xploring the backcountry of France counts among the great pleasures of life, and one of my favorite ways to do so is along the country’s extensive network of canals. Spending six nights aboard a converted 1920s-era cargo barge might sound like rather an ordeal, but in fact the best boats compare with any well-staffed luxury yacht. Thomas Jefferson may have pioneered the French barge vacation when he cruised along the Languedoc’s Canal du Midi in early 1787. In a letter to a friend he wrote, “Of all the methods of traveling I have ever tried, this is the pleasantest. I walk the greater part of the way along the banks of the canal, level, and lined with a double row of trees which furnish shade. When fatigued, I take seat [on the barge] where, as much at ease as if in my

study, I read, write, or observe.” In many respects, little about the experience has changed in the ensuing 230 years. Jefferson would likely have recognized the rhythm of the cruise we took aboard the Hirondelle, a four-cabin barge operated by Afloat in France, a company now owned by Belmond. But I suspect our barge — painted smartly in white, burgundy and black — offered a far greater level of comfort than his. On the teak deck, a canopy shaded a table surrounded by eight faux-wicker armchairs. Stairs led down to a combined lounge-and-dining room with hardwood floors, brass sconces and numerous windows with wooden Venetian blinds, plus a paneled ceiling with a large skylight. Fresh flower arrangements and comfortable sofas upholstered in red linen added splashes of color. A built-in

C OV E R P H O T O G R A P H The Hirondelle moored at Verdun-sur-le-Doubs THIS MONTH

Côte d’Or and Chablis As well as making a sublime six-night journey by luxury barge along the Canal du Centre and the River Saône, I discovered a fine new hideaway deep in the Burgundy countryside. .............. 1-7

 Online: Tasting at Top Burgundy Wineries, plus a Burgundy Touring Itinerary

Blissful St. Barths Two of my favorite resorts on this idyllic island are under new ownership and have recently been upgraded and refurbished. . . .............. 8-11 Find video and more photography of our trips at andrewharper.com/hideaway-report Andrew Harper travels anonymously and pays full rate for all lodging, meals and related travel expenses. Since the inception of this newsletter in 1979, the featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis.

Full-service travel planning is available to subscribers at (800) 375-4685 or reservations@AndrewHarper.com. For comments and inquiries concerning the Hideaway Report, please email aharper@AndrewHarper.com.

Cabin, lounge, dining deck, and details of a dinner on board the Hirondelle including a nightly wine selection, and duck leg with turnip purée / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

buffet counter provided a good selection of both French and international spirits, plus white wine, water and soft drinks in a small refrigerator. Our cabin, similar in size to the other three, proved snug but agreeable, with small windows that could be opened to let in fresh air, soft carpeting and a simple beige color scheme enlivened by a print of a Burgundian town square and a wall covered in Empire-style wallpaper. We had opted for a room with a king-size bed, but it is also possible to request two twins. A single vanity flanked by ample counter space occupied the wall beneath the windows, and a door concealed the bath. The latter contained a shower stall and was stocked with L’Occitane toiletries. We had enough storage and closet space to unpack almost entirely; however, the room lacked a chair, which was occasionally irritating, and I wished we’d had more than a single electrical outlet over the sink. Each morning we breakfasted on fresh fruit salad, eggs and fresh-baked bread, often succumbing to the tempting pastries procured from a nearby boulangerie. We would then start gliding along the Canal du Centre — we also spent two days on the River Saône — near Burgundy’s hallowed Côte d’Or. At numerous small locks it was possible to disembark and walk along the canal — the barge moves at approximately the same speed as a pedestrian — or to head deeper into the countryside on a bicycle. Beyond the trees that lined the canal were fields of sunflowers, tidy villages and

HIDEAWAY REPORT OCTOBER 2016

undulating pastures dotted with white Charolais cattle. We typically returned to the Hirondelle an hour or so before lunch, giving us time to sit beneath the canopy on the geranium-bordered deck while reading or simply watching the idyllic landscapes slip by. During our introduction to the ship and its crew, the chef told us that lunches would be “light — salads and that sort of thing.” What he meant by “that sort of thing” was, for example, mild Toulouse sausages, Moroccan-spiced couscous, ratatouille, pork rillettes, fried frogs legs in a light lemon-butter sauce, and seared tuna steaks to place atop a Niçoise salad. A top-quality cheese, Neufchâtel, was served as dessert. This particular lunchtime feast was accompanied by a bottle of Saint-Bris, Burgundy’s little-known but excellent Sauvignon Blanc.

In the af ternoon we headed out on memorable excu r sion s w it h t he Hirondelle’s top-notch Burgundian guide, A rmelle. On one occasion our little group had the grand Château de Rully entirely to ourselves, and as Armelle led us from room to elaborate room in the 12th-century castle, she pointed out fascinating details that illuminated the history behind the family paintings. She also led us on a walking tour of her lovely hometown, Chalon-sur-Saône, which culminated in a sampling of chocolates and cookies in a friendly patisserie. And then there were the wine tastings: one in a hilltop facility with pano ramic views of the vineyards of the Côte Chalonnaise, and another in the cave (cellar) of a family winery in the village of Gevrey-Chambertin. The son met us, dressed in work clothes, after parking his

Toulouse sausages and Neufchâtel cheese (below) from an onboard lunch, and a canal in Dole

Fleur de Lys / © F. LEGRAND

tractor in front of the winery; this lack of pretension and formality is typically Burgundian, and it is one of the region’s most surprising and endearing characteristics. He poured some rich and elegant premier cru wines for us along with an unusual sparkling Pinot Noir. By the time we returned to the Hirondelle each af ternoon, it had usually moored for the day, of ten nex t to a picturesque town such as Dole, Verdunsur-le-Doubs or Saint-Jean-de-Losne (only Chagny proved unattractive). After a stroll through town or a game of boules, we would refresh ourselves with aperitifs and canapés and then sit down to dinner. One night we enjoyed savory gougères topped with mushroom cream sauce; duck legs with turnip purée, Puy lentils and sweet red cabbage; nutty Beaufort cheese from Savoie; and flawless crème brûlée. On other evenings we had lighter fare, such as our dinner of red wine-poached pears with grilled goat cheese and hazelnuts, Atlantic scallops with a Noilly Prat cream sauce, local Chaource cheese, and a brightly flavored lemon cake. Indeed, the food was so consistently superb that it was something of a disappointment to dine out one night at a Michelinstarred restaurant. Wines, too, ranged from excellent to sensational, and not a dinner on the Hirondelle went by without at least one Burgundian premier cru. Each evening different legendary names — Chassagne-Montrachet, Meursault, Chambolle-Musigny — graced our table. The small size of the ship ensured that the five crew members got to know our preferences, habits and tempera-

ments very quickly. At one point while chatting with the chef, for example, I complained that in the United States it is often difficult to find the pâtés en croûte at which the Burgundians excel. Two days later, while shopping at an outdoor food market, he led me to a charcuterie stand so that I might select a pie or pâté to serve at lunch. I chose a tourte Bourguignonne froide filled with pork, garlic, parsley and béchamel. When we had free time in Chalon-sur-Saône and Beaune, our guide acted as a personal shopper for one passenger, helping her find exactly the kind of table linens she was seeking. And after dinner each night, the barge’s hostess always had my preferred digestif of marc de Bourgogne at the ready. Of course, unless you charter the Hirondelle, which many do, you can’t be sure who will join you on your cruise. However, the chances are high that travelers who find canal cruises appealing will have much in common. The Hirondelle attracts those who want to escape the crowds and to explore lesser-known sights; I have traveled aboard canal barges before and have yet to encounter a fractious group. And for the food and wine lover, I can think of few better ways to spend a week than on the waterways of Burgundy. H Hirondelle “Dole to Saint-Léger-sur-Dheune” is a sixnight cruise offered by Belmond along Burgundy’s Canal du Centre and the River Saône (other itineraries include the Canal de Bourgogne). Cabin, $6,010 per person; full charter, $40,430. Rates include all meals and beverages (including alcohol), excursions as described in the itinerary and round-trip transfers from downtown Paris. Contact the Andrew Harper Travel Office for additional information and to make reservations: (800) 375-4685.

Mustard for sale in Dijon, Charolais cows, and walking path along the Canal du Centre / ALL PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

MORE BARGE OPTIONS

Belmond’s Fleet

he Hirondelle is one of the five barges on Belmond's current roster, which offers cruises in three contrasting regions. Hirondelle This four-cabin barge is among the most casual and relaxing, with relatively simple furnishings. Nevertheless, the food and service are at the same elevated level as the other barges, and the itineraries through Burgundy — SaintLéger-sur-Dheune to Dole and Besançon to Chagny — are among the most tempting. Available for private charters or single-cabin bookings. Amaryllis Also with four cabins, the Amaryllis cruises from Dijon to Saint-Léger-sur-Dheune. It is similar to the Hirondelle, but it has much more formal Louis XVI décor and can only be booked as a private charter. In addition, it has a small swimming pool at the bow. Fleur de Lys Like the Amaryllis, this barge has a pool and a more formal atmosphere. It follows a more northerly route in Burgundy from Dijon to Vandenesse-en-Auxois along the River Ouche. Available for private charters; on certain dates its three cabins can be reserved individually. Alouette The smallest barge in the Belmond fleet has just two cabins, and it is available for private charters only. It cruises a fascinating itinerary along the Canal du Midi in Languedoc between Carcassonne and Béziers. In addition to magnificent scenery, this region claims many of France’s most innovative winemakers. Napoléon Instead of cruising along a canal, this six-cabin barge plies the Rhône River between Tain-l’Hermitage and Arles. The itinerary includes many of Provence’s major sights as well as lesser-known villages, local markets and worldclass wineries. Available for private charters and single-cabin bookings. Two new barges will be added to the Belmond fleet in 2017. The Lilas will cruise through Alsace, while the Pivoine will take passengers from Meaux to Châlons-en-Champagne.

OCTOBER 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT

Pool at La Borde in Leugny / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

C H A B L I S T O B E AU N E

New Burgundy Hideaways 1 La Borde 2 Abbaye de la Bussière* 3 Le Cep* Hostellerie de Levernois* 4 Château du Petit Musigny* 5 Georges Blanc Parc & Spa* 6 Château de Bagnols* *previously recommended

PARIS Y VO N N E R.

Chablis Wine Region

S DIJON

Côte d’Or Wine Region

BEAUNE

DOLE

3 DOU

IRE

SAO

SAINT-LEGERSUR-DHEUNE

Route of the Belmond Hirondelle 20

Beaujolais Wine Region

40 MI 40 KM

LYON

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money. But Chablis draws fewer visitors, and the town itself lacks a distinguished hotel. However, luxury lies 45 minutes to the southwest at La Borde, a rural estate with just five suites, four of which are Junior Suites, tucked deep in the pastoral heart of Burgundy. The property dates back to at least the 14th century when a walled manor house stood on the site, but most of the current structures were built in the 16th century. Owners Rik and Marieke Klomp originally used La Borde as their vacation home, hosting house parties and relaxing there over school breaks. Once their children started lives of their own, the Klomps decided to turn La Borde into a guesthouse. “But we needed a challenge,” Rik explained to me one evening by the fire, “so we wanted to make it a five-star property.” They succeeded: Their talent for hospitality has resulted in a hideaway of the first order.

BURGUNDY

SAULIEU

ome of Burgundy’s best wines come from Chablis. I love the region’s forceful whites, and because they lack the cachet of those from the Côte d’Or, these wines usually offer excellent value for the

VEZELAY

CHABLIS

. SE IN E R

AUXERRE

elmond barge cruises include transfers to and from Paris, but I couldn’t resist the opportunity to strike out into the countryside. I never tire of driving along the back roads of France, and I find the sculpted landscapes of Burgundy especially appealing. Allées of poplars and plane trees give way to well-tended pastures and views to distant castles and compact villages. Burgundy’s most famous department, the Côte d’Or, is home to some of the world’s most coveted wines, and I currently recommend several hotels in the region. But Burgundy stretches far beyond the “slope of gold,” so I set out to see what other hideaways I could discover.

Conservatory, gardens, main lounge, and our Aubépine junior suite at La Borde / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

Château de Rully / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

While Rik took our luggage to our room on a golf cart, Marieke escorted us there on foot through the fragrant gardens. The 17 acres that surround the central buildings were just fields when the Klomps purchased La Borde, but the couple quickly set about creating formal gardens, starting with an allée of lindens. The grounds now also comprise extravagant beds of roses, a flourishing kitchen garden, elaborate topiary and an orchard of apples and pears. A Victorianstyle conservatory contains a sofa and numerous armchairs surrounding a woodburning fireplace. “It’s a delightful place to relax when it rains,” Marieke told me. Clear blue skies allowed us to relax by the well-kept swimming pool, which is surrounded by umbrella-shaded loungers facing the former dovecote. This cylindrical building, capped by a conical tile roof, now contains showers and a hot tub and stands adjacent to the spa, which has a steam room, a sauna and a massage treatment room. An extra fee is charged for use of the spa, required in order to keep it a private experience, it was explained. The gleaming and well-equipped fitness center, however, is complimentary. Continuing around a central courtyard we arrived at the entrance to our Junior Suite. We had chosen Aubépine, which came with vaulted ceilings of ancient wooden beams, a king-size bed with a linen headboard and two contemporary scroll-top chairs facing a functioning fireplace. Antique shutters concealed the closet and the terra-cotta f loor looked original. Worn wooden beams also supported the ceiling of the bath, which had a soaking tub, pedestal sinks and a walk-in shower. Aubépine is up a flight of stairs, but ground-floor accommodations are also available.

Nearby, a former carriage house has been renovated into an airy and stylish lounge centerpieced by a massive Renaissance-style hearth. Louis XV sofas and armchairs upholstered in pearl gray face the fireplace, which is flanked by a giant antique bellows. One of the original half-timbered walls remains, but the other has been replaced by a set of immense glass doors, which can transform the lounge into an indoor/outdoor space that opens onto the courtyard. A wood-beamed log gia covers a communal dining table facing the courtyard and gardens, but evenings proved too cool for outdoor dinners during our stay. Instead, we dined inside on fine French cuisine prepared and served by Marieke herself. After delicate gougères, we tucked into some escargot, followed by flavorful duck breast accompanied by a potato gâteau and zucchini with pesto. Next came a superb cheese tray with Epoisses, Chaource (made by a nearby fromager), Roquefort and double-cream Saint-Félicien Tentation. And finally, we enjoyed a dessert of hazelnut macaroon topped with raspberry coulis, homemade vanilla ice cream and fresh raspberries. Marieke incorporates produce and herbs from La Borde’s garden as much as possible. After such a satisfying meal, a stroll in the garden seemed like just the thing. Rik refused to let me go, however, until I put on some rubber overshoes to protect my leather loafers from the wet grass. This thoughtful gesture exemplified the anticipatory service and warm hospitality at La Borde. I also appreciated details such as the list of nearby restaurants placed in our room, complete with a chart of opening times, prices and types of cuisine. We left with real regret.

E XC U R S I O N S

Châteaux Visits

ortifications dot the strategic Burgundian landscape, ranging from well-defended manor houses to romantic castles bristling with mosaic-roofed towers. Some remain in private hands, having been owned by the same family for hundreds of years. We visited three dramatic châteaux on this latest trip. Château de Chastellux This castle in the Parc naturel régional du Morvan, between Vézelay and Saulieu along the ancient Roman Via Agrippa, has been occupied by the same family for 10 generations (aside from a brief interruption during the French Revolution). The guided tour of the interior, offered three times daily, is only in French, but pages in English describe the rooms well. I was especially taken with the huge, if faded, 17th-century tapestries in the guard room; the grand but cozy wood-paneled library; and the cheerful Palm Bedroom, which retains much of its 1620s décor. Château de Rully We visited this family-owned château as an excursion from the Hirondelle, and we had the impressive 12th-century fortification entirely to ourselves. Its towers rise up from the vineyards of the Côte Chalonnaise, and the ornate interiors display a large portion of their pre-Revolution furnishings. Our barge’s guide did an excellent job illuminating the castle’s history, but anyone can make advance reservations for a private tour with a member of the family. Official tours can even be followed by a wine tasting. Château de La Rochepot Perched on a hillside with panoramic views, this 13th-century castle looks straight out of a fairy tale. An array of spire-topped turrets surrounds a flower-filled courtyard, and much of the roof is covered in multicolored tiles. A brochure in English describes the salient features of the Gothic and Renaissance interiors, including the heroic dining room and an exotic “Chinese Room” furnished with gifts from the Empress Dowager Cixi. Be sure to take the unmarked path up the hill behind the ticket office: Turn left at the end of the wall and take the high trail, which leads to a splendid overlook of the château.

OCTOBER 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT

Red mullet and mignardises (below) at Le Relais Bernard Loiseau in Saulieu, and lounge and garden at Le Cep in Beaune O E N O L O GY

Tasting Grands Crus

he grand cru wines of Burgundy are among the most coveted and expensive wines in the world. Most wineries in Burgundy offer at least a premier cru wine as part of a tasting, and they may also pour a grand cru or two. But, it is rare to be able to taste several grand cru wines in a row. The friendly venues below offer precisely that opportunity. And because you pay for the tasting, there is no obligation for you to purchase a bottle. S. Chablis This bright and cheerful place in the heart of Chablis offers one of the best deals in all of Burgundy: tastes of four local grands crus for 14 euro. The good-humored owner, Arnaud, speaks perfect English and is happy to tailor a tasting to your palate. It was fascinating to try Chablis from four different grand cru vineyards — La Moutonne, Les Clos, Les Preuses and Vaudésir — ranging in age from 3 to 12 years old. The richness and force of top-quality Chablis never fail to amaze me. 8 Rue Auxerroise, Chablis. Millésimes à la Carte It’s well worth the short taxi ride to this contemporary wine shop and tasting room outside Beaune’s center. For 40 euro per person we tasted six grands crus, including sumptuous whites from Corton-Charlemagne and Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet and elegant reds from Corton Clos du Roi and Echezeaux. As we tasted, knowledgeable owner Thierry came over to discuss the various terroirs and winemakers. 1 Rue du Moulin Noize, Beaune. Marché aux Vins I used to love this tasting venue, housed in the atmospheric cellars and vaulted interior of Beaune’s 15th-century Cordeliers church. Candles provided much of the illumination, and one could taste as much as one liked, including of premier and grands crus. Now the cellars are brightly lit, the best wines are dispensed penuriously from an Enomatic machine and an art gallery displaying garish knockoffs of Jeff Koons and Jackson Pollock occupies much of the old church. What a shame. 7 Rue de l'Hôtel-Dieu, Beaune. The friendly English-speaking owner of S. Chablis

e continued southeast through the forests and pastures of the rolling Morvan. After pausing to admire the immense hilltop Vézelay Abbey, we arrived in Saulieu, home to Le Relais Bernard Loiseau and its Michelin twostar restaurant. The property has a tragic past: In 2003, chef Loiseau, already suffering from depression, committed suicide when he learned his restaurant might lose one of its (then) three stars. Having worked with Loiseau for 20 years, chef Patrick Bertron took over the kitchen. I was curious to see if the famous gourmet retreat merited recommendation today. Certainly, the restaurant deserves it s continued acclaim. We tried the “Hommage” menu, which included chef Ber tron’s interpretations of classic Loiseau recipes. I loved every dish, from the amuse bouche of a mosaic-like poultry terrine en croûte, to the exquisite mignardises following dessert. Especially memorable were the red mullet with shellfish jus and a ratatouille brunoise; and the perfectly rendered duck in a dizzyingly rich foie gras- and truffle-infused sauce, accompanied by slightly bitter turnips. I also enjoyed the hotel’s shady gardens and free-form swimming pool as well as the compact spa and the clubby,

wood-paneled library and billiard room. Service, too, was always friendly and helpful. I would happily recommend Le Relais Bernard Loiseau, if only our accommodations hadn’t been so unattractive. Our suite, which in no way resembled that pictured on the hotel’s website, had a small living room with one window facing an interior corridor. The two medieval-style armchairs were, inexplicably, upholstered in fabric printed to look like wicker. Matters improved in the bath, which had a deep, jetted soaking tub and dual sinks set in a wood counter, but it was as brown as the ugly plush cover on the bed. We spent as much time on the topiary-bordered patio as possible, but it could not compensate for the aesthetic crimes committed by the rest of the suite.

e checked out and drove to Beaune, the walled capital of the Côte d’Or, where I hoped that Chez les Fatien would prove a compelling hideaway. With four rooms surrounding a small courtyard, this historic property in the city’s beautifully preserved center was blessedly free from design disasters. Indeed, our large junior suite, La Bourguignonne, was lovely with its ceiling of massive wood beams and a dramatic wood-paneled niche framing

La Borde A94 The unfailingly warm, hospitable and anticipatory service; the rich historic details; the tranquil garden setting; the unfussy, delicious food; the well-kept pool; the house-party feel. D I S L I K E The leather armchairs in the conservatory need conditioning; the bath had limited counter space. G O O D T O K N O W The property is a fine base for sightseeing, within easy reach of Chablis, Auxerre, Vézelay and Avallon, among other attractions. Junior Suite, $390; Suite, $510. 89130 Leugny. Tel. (33) 3-86-47-69-01. lbmh.fr

PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel that will be added to The Andrew Harper Collection. A Visit AndrewHarper.com for information on this and the six other recommendations in the Burgundy/Beaujolais region (see map). Le Relais Bernard Loiseau (89) and Chez les Fatien (88) were not up to the required standard.

HIDEAWAY REPORT OCTOBER 2016

/ ALL PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

Burgundy Restaurant Discoveries On this visit to the Côte d’Or, I discovered traditional gourmet experiences as well as more cutting-edge choices.

Le Jardin des Remparts The 1930s villa housing this restaurant has pretty dining rooms, but the garden patio is its real glory. There we had an unforgettable lunch, starting with shelled escargot in a ring of fluffy garlic cream sauce. Just as good was the juicy Charolais beef with red wine sauce, mushrooms and a side of ethereally light potato purée. 10 Rue de l'Hôtel-Dieu, Beaune. Tel. (33) 3-80-24-79-41.

Le Clos du Cèdre

Le Millésime This chic restaurant is located in a 17th-century building in the heart of ChambolleMusigny, a hamlet north of Beaune. The sumptuous fare features modern interpretations of traditional cuisine such as foie gras with smoked eel and leeks, and slow-cooked veal. Dishes are paired with selections from the excellent wine list. 1 Rue Traversière, Chambolle-Musigny. Tel. (33) 3-80-62-80-37.

Bistrot Lucien Conveniently located in the heart of the Côte de Nuits region, this brasserie features food rooted in local tradition. Our mouthwatering meal included a hearty coq au vin, which was a splendid match with the Grand Cru Pinot Noir from the nearby Clos de Vougeot vineyard, and the most sublime profiteroles in recent memory. 6 Rue du Chambertin, Gevrey-Chambertin. Tel. (33) 3-80-34-33-20.

Ma Cuisine This bustling Beaune institution offers a host of expertly prepared classics such as scrambled eggs with truffles, and duck breast with wild mushrooms. The selections accompany what may be Burgundy’s top wine list. Save room for the bountiful cheese selections. Reserve well in advance. Passage Saint-Hélène, Beaune. Tel. (33) 3-80-22-30-22.

Bissoh This minimalist, 20-seat Japanese restaurant in Beaune is a break from the typical Burgundian establishment. Its 10-course tasting menu delivers world-class quality and creativity. The salted prawns and foie gras tempura stole the show, especially when paired with a glass of Meursault. The eclectic wine list offers noteworthy selections at reasonable prices. 42 Rue Maufoux, Beaune. Tel. (33) 3-80-24-01-02. Olive ice cream at Le Clos du Cèdre, and shelled escargot in a garlic cream sauce at Le Jardin des Remparts

PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

the king-size bed, which was topped by a voluminously fluffy duvet. Comfortably worn leather chairs faced a brick fireplace with a carved stone mantel. Touches such as a chandelier festooned with brass grapes, a grape-emblazoned wall sconce and a bronze desk clock surmounted by a sculpture of a young grape picker gave the room additional sense of place. The bath was equally as attractive, with exposed stone walls, a freestanding tub, dual vanities and a wide walk-in shower. Unfortunately, the service at Chez les Fatien did not rise to the level of the accommodations, leaving the property firmly in bed-and-breakfast territory. When we arrived, the front door was fortunately open — there is no doorbell or intercom — allowing us to walk in. The owners, while very personable, were often absent, expecting guests to call their cell phone should anything be required. When in Beaune, I highly recommend making an appointment for a wine tasting next door to Chez les Fatien at Maison Fatien Père & Fils. The engaging Charly Fatien led us through the extensive centuries-old cellars there, giving us samples straight from the barrels that included wines from Gevrey-Chambertin, Pommard and Rully, among others. Beautiful though Chez les Fatien may be, it is suited only to self-sufficient travelers. My preferred hotel in Beaune remains Le Cep: This 65-room property has a full staff, plus an impressive new spa. H

Like the more famous Jardin des Remparts, this restaurant has an idyllic gardenand-mansion setting but an edgier menu. I had an appetizer of tangy mackerel escabeche with pickled fennel and dots of carrot purée and fish sauce. For my main, a tender slice of leg of lamb came with crispy lamb sweetbreads and savory kidney, as well as fresh corn kernels, baby corn, corn purée and corn foam. 10-12 Boulevard Marechal Foch, Beaune. Tel. (33) 3-80-24-01-01.

 To read about a recent visit to some of Burgundy’s foremost wineries by Andrew Harper Wine Concierge Hal Oates, visit AndrewHarper.com/go/burgundy-wine.

OCTOBER 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT

CLASSIC RESORTS UPGRADED AND REFURBISHED

Revisiting Seductive St. Barths Beach Suite living room at Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France / © PIERRE CARREAU

ach Caribbean island has its own distinctive personality, but the one that delights almost everyone is St. Barths. With its status as a DOM (Département d’Outre-Mer), St. Barths is as much a part of France as Normandy or Provence, even if the mother country is 4,100 miles away. It is also perceptibly one of the happiest, most polite and most peaceful places in the world. The

white sand beaches are dazzling; the food is consistently excellent; and the island’s capital, Gustavia, has arguably the prettiest harbor in the Caribbean (its only real rival is St. George’s, Grenada.).

t. Barths has recently seen major renovations of several of its most famous hotels, notably the Isle de France. This intimate 40-room (four suites,

ILE FREGATE

1 Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France 2 Hôtel Le Toiny 3 Eden Rock 4 Hôtel Christopher

ILE CHEVREAU

ANSE DES FLAMANDS

ANSE DE COLOMBIER

ANSE DES LEZARDS

ILE TORTUE

BAIE DE ST-JEAN

3 ANSE DE PUBLIC

GUSTAVIA HARBOR

Orega L’Isola

ST. BARTHS

SHELL BEACH

1 MI 1 KM

HIDEAWAY REPORT OCTOBER 2016

On the Rocks

L’Esprit

= Recommended Restaurants 0

ANSE DE LORIENT

ANSE DU GOUVERNEUR

ANSE DE GRANDE SALINE

ANSE DU GRAND CUL-DE-SAC

Restaurant Le Sereno

2 ANSE DE ANSE TOINY DE GRAND FOND

Restaurant Le Toiny

two villas) resort set amid 10 acres of grounds and fronting the lovely Baie des Flamands was renamed as the Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France in 2014, when it became the third property in luxury conglomerate LVMH’s growing roster of hotels. The other Cheval Blanc resorts are located in Courchevel and the Maldives, and hotels are under development in Paris and Oman. Following the comprehensive program of renovation and redecoration at Isle de France, we decided to make a return visit. First impressions matter, and the young staff members were warm and welcoming on arrival. The men were dressed in white polo shirts and white canvas slacks, while the women wore pretty, sleeveless Creole-style seersucker dresses. This studied informality set a relaxed island tone immediately, as did the old-fashioned glass drink dispensers, the ceiling fans in the lobby, the white wicker furniture with floral chintz cushions and the decorative accents of pale salmon pink. I’d hoped to find that the strong sense of place had not been compromised by too much anonymous international style. I needn’t have worried; the beachfront rooms in the main villa still have an entire-

ly appropriate décor with white walls and ceilings, white tile floors, white cotton slip-covered armchairs and dove-gray wooden desks and chests of drawers. Our bed was made up with perfectly ironed, tautly tucked white cotton sheets. Everything about the room was well-thoughtout, including the window treatment that allowed full, partial and light shade with two sets of curtains and shutters. The spacious bath, with an oversize enameled soaking tub, separate shower and stone counter, was flooded with natural light and came with oyster-colored tile floors and neat piles of exceptionally plush towels. In addition to Cheval Blanc toiletries, there were several skin creams, including an après-soleil, a high-SPF lip balm, bath salts, bath cubes and bath oil. Once we’d settled in, we strolled over to lunch at La Cabane de l’Isle, the hotel’s beach restaurant. There you eat under the main awning or beneath an individual beach umbrella, just a few dozen feet from the azure water. Unlike many beach restaurants, this one offers excellent service along with its relaxed atmosphere. My red tuna tartare with avocado was outstanding. Afterward we spent a quiet afternoon reading, swimming and dozing. Whether you eat in or decide to head to a restaurant elsewhere, Le White Bar is a lovely setting for pre-dinner drinks. I especially recommend the cocktails made with rums from the French islands of Martinique and Guadeloupe. The hotel’s formal evening restaurant, La Case de l’Isle, features the cooking of talented Brittany-born chef Yann Vinsot. In the exceptionally pleasant open-air dining room, we enjoyed local rock lobster flambéed in rum, and rack of lamb glazed with red miso. The Isle de France has an “Ambassador” system — each room is assigned a personal concierge at check-in — but being familiar with the island, we thought it unlikely that we would require this service. However, it was a valuable tip from our Ambassador that took us to Orega, a restaurant that opened in Gustavia last December and which serves unexpectedly delicious sushi and sashimi. The Cheval Blanc Spa comprises a sauna, a relaxation pavilion and four

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Unlike many beach restaurants, La Cabane de l’Isle offers excellent service and outstanding food as well as a relaxed atmosphere.

Three Great Shops for Beach-Goers Ligne St. Barth While almost every international luxury brand has a boutique in Gustavia, I greatly prefer local shops. One of the best is Ligne St. Barth, a skincare and cosmetics company that was founded by Hervé Brin, descendant of one of the oldest families on the island. Working with his German wife, Birgit, he produces an excellent line of all-natural lotions and suntanning creams as well as a variety of products made from purified seawater and Caribbean fruit and plant extracts. The products are beautifully packaged, they work, and it seems that everyone in St. Barths appreciates them. Two favorites are the Mango Butter Cream moisturizer and the SPF 30 Roucou Sunscreen Lotion. Route de Saline, L’Orient.

MC2 Saint Barth Any man who finds it a challenge to buy a pair of comfortable, good-looking swim trunks might want to stop by this shop, which sells well-made, reasonably priced swimwear. The label was founded on St. Barths, and today the company has boutiques in many of the world’s most glamorous beach destinations, including Porto Cervo in Sardinia, Forte dei Marmi in Tuscany, Mykonos in the Cyclades and Formentera in the Balearics. Rue du General de Gaulle, Gustavia.

Poupette St Barth Many St. Barths shops carry European labels not found in North America. Poupette in Gustavia sells fun, fluttery clothing, including pareos, scarves, shawls and shirts in colorful handkerchief-weight cotton prints. Rue de la Republique, Gustavia.

OCTOBER 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT

treatment rooms. Guerlain has created a wide range of face and body treatments especially for the resort. Be sure not to miss it s signature 50-minute treatment, which combines a facial and a massage. If the Cheval Blanc is an ideal destination for couples, it also offers suitable accommodations for families, notably in the 12 bungalows found on lush grounds across from the main hotel building. Decorated in the same style as the main lodge, these spacious bungalows come with large, private outdoor terraces and can be linked to form compounds. Since they do not have seaviews, they’re more reasonably priced than beachfront rooms and suites. The two-bedroom Garden Suite with a private pool is another good option for families. Today, the Cheval Blanc St-Barths Isle de France — a hotel I’ve always enjoyed — is even better in terms of the décor, service and comforts than it has been in the past. This is one of the Caribbean’s foremost resorts, and it cannot be recommended too highly.

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Le Toiny was recently acquired by new owners, and summer 2015 saw a multimilliondollar renovation program of this idyllic hideaway.

H O T E L S AT A G L A N C E

Le Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France A96 L I K E The

prevailing good manners of the staff; the quiet atmosphere, which recalls that of the French Atlantic islands, such as the Ile de Ré, more than it does St. Tropez; the superb Guerlain spa. D I S L I K E The disco soundtrack played at the beach restaurant at noon — birdsong and the sound of the waves are preferable. G O O D T O K N O W Surprisingly, this is a family-friendly property. Beach Room, $1,250; Beach Junior Suite, $1,650. Baie des Flamands 97133. Tel. (590) 590-276-181. chevalblanc.com

Hôtel Le Toiny A95 L I K E The

tranquil hideaway atmosphere; the privacy of the spacious villas; the glorious seaview. D I S L I K E The beach is more suitable for surfing than swimming. G O O D T O K N O W Despite a change in the style of cuisine, Le Toiny Restaurant remains one of the best on the island. Junior Suite, $1,960; Villa, $2,500. Anse de Toiny 97133. Tel. (590) 590-278-888. letoiny.com

Hôtel Christopher A91 LIKE

The quiet setting; the charming service; the excellent restaurants and spa. D I S L I K E The lack of a beach at the resort itself. G O O D T O K N O W It is advisable to book spa appointments in advance, especially during high season. Ocean Junior Suite, $950; Ocean Suite, $2,040. Pointe Milou F-97133. Tel. (590) 590-276-363. hotelchristopher.com preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel that will be added to The Andrew Harper Collection. A Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information on these and our other St. Barths recommendation: Eden Rock (94).

HIDEAWAY REPORT OCTOBER 2016

n the island’s southeastern coast — known as the Côte Sauvage — Hôtel Le Toiny was recently acquired by new owners Charlie and Mandie Vere Nicoll, and summer 2015 saw a multimilliondollar renovation program of the idyllic hideaway. Set on 42 acres of grounds that gently slope down to the Bay of Toiny, the 14 villas with private pools have been redecorated in a soothing scheme of neutral colors and earth tones by Londonbased interior designer Bee Osborn. A new Beach Club has been added, where it was our particular pleasure to spend a day reading in hammocks and lounging in the shade of the seaside coconut grove. The hotel’s main public areas include a new oyster shell-lined open-air bar, which provides an ideal venue for cocktails before dinner at the excellent contemporary and Mediterranean-influenced Le Toiny Restaurant (formerly Le Gaïac).

t. Barths may be idyllic, but alas, it is not cheap. Travelers who find the rates too steep at hotels such as the Cheval Blanc and Le Toiny — possibly those with children — may wish to consider the 42-room Hôtel Christopher, a Pointe

Sushi prepared omakase-style at Orega

Milou favorite with luxury-loving but value-conscious French vacationers. We joined them for a night and quickly understood why this resort is so popular. For starters, it has one of the largest pools on St. Barths — a welcome amenity at a property without beach access — plus two excellent restaurants: Mango for lunch and the dressier, more gastronomically ambitious Taïno for dinner. There is also a Sisley Spa at this relaxed, friendly, feet-in-the-sand place. And, unlike fashionable and celebrity-haunted hotels such as the Eden Rock, there’s no “scene” here to speak of. We had booked an Ocean Deluxe Terrace Room, which had a private terrace with superb views of the sea from a double daybed. The large room itself came with limestone floors that were pleasantly cool underfoot, an aluminum ceiling fan, a teak-framed bed made up in Egyptian

cotton sheets, a built-in teak chest of drawers and a spacious bath with a separate rainfall shower and an egg-shaped black granite tub that was extra-long. A highlight of our brief stay was the excellent cooking of young French chef Jean-Baptiste Piard. A delicious dinner at Taïno began with tuna gravlax with flying fish eggs and basil caviar (small, soft green pearls filled with basil-infused oil), and continued with roasted lobster tail and boned suckling pig, surely the most elegant version of surf-and-turf on the island. As always, we left St. Barths with real regret. Fortunately, the debut of Le Barthélemy (see box) will provide an excellent reason for a prompt return. Ultimately, maybe the best thing about St. Barths is that “plus ça change, plus c’est la même chose” — the more things change, the more they stay the same. H

GASTRONOMY

Dining Highlight

pened last December by a French architect with a passion for Japanese food, Orega has quickly become one of the most popular restaurants on the island. The interior is decorated with paintings by the owner’s Ukrainian artist wife. A Japanese master produces outstanding sushi and sashimi from impeccably fresh fish — no mean feat given the logistics of delivery to a small Caribbean island — as well as worldly FrancoJapanese dishes like black cod glazed with miso, or lobster ravioli in mushroom sauce. Rue Samuel Fahlberg, Gustavia. Tel. (590) 590-524-531. To read about all of my favorite restaurants in St. Barths, visit AndrewHarper.com. Detail of room at Le Barthelémy / © PIERRE CARREAU

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This is a relaxed, friendly, feetin-the-sand place. And, unlike some fashionable and celebrityhaunted hotels, there’s no “scene” here to speak of.

HOTEL NEWS

Anticipated Debut

his month is the scheduled debut of Le Barthélemy, a 46-room property on the Baie de Grand Cul-de-Sac situated on the wild northeastern-most tip of the island. Amenities will include a spa employing La Mer products, and the cuisine will be overseen by chef Guy Martin of the two-star Le Grand Véfour in Paris. Rooms will have a contemporary Caribbean décor created by Paris-based decorator Sybille de Margerie, with plantation ceilings, four poster beds and baths stocked with Hermès toiletries.

OCTOBER 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT

L AST LOOK

L AST WORD

Give the Gift of Travel This Holiday Season

I Oyster mushrooms in a Dijon market / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

New and Noteworthy Lake Timara Lodge Reinvented Set on an idyllic estate in New Zealand’s Marlborough wine region, Lake Timara Lodge will reopen in October after a comprehensive program of renovation and refurbishment. The public areas have been restyled, and an Executive Chef has been hired by new owners to create menus of healthy and organic cuisine. Personally, I am particularly keen to see the enhancements that have been made to the 25 acres of gardens, which are renowned as some of the loveliest in the country. A new kiwi fern garden has been added, as have 200 rhododendrons, 200 azaleas, a variety of fruit trees (including 40 ornamental pear trees), a kitchen herb plot and several hundred yards of new stone walling.

Private Jet Safaris from &Beyond The well-respected safari company &Beyond, a number of whose lodges I recommend, is now offering glamorous Africa itineraries by private jet. Aircraft like the Embraer ERJ 145 offer couches and living areas, making air travel exceptionally comfortable. All private jet expeditions include the opportunity to meet leading wildlife and conservation experts. Unsurprisingly, such trips are not inexpensive. A 19-day trip throughout East and Southern Africa in September/October 2017 costs $116,500 per person for a maximum of 12 travelers.

Gagnaire Comes to Bordeaux La Grande Maison de Bernard Magrez, a boutique hotel in Bordeaux owned by one of France’s most distinguished winemakers, opened at the end of 2014 with a restaurant under the direction of the legendary Joël Robuchon. The latter’s brief, it is rumored, was to acquire three Michelin stars as quickly as possible, but economic times have been tough in France of late, and the business model became outmoded. Supervision of the kitchen has now passed to another luminary, Pierre Gagnaire, chef and owner of his eponymous three-star restaurant located at 6 Rue Balzac in Paris. Gagnaire has said that he will take time to discover local producers and to understand the city and its inhabitants. The restaurant promises more modestly priced menus, in addition to haute cuisine, and it will henceforth aim to appeal to a wider clientele. The Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. SUBSCRIBER: If the Post Office alerts us that your periodical publication is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. Copyright 2016 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Research Editor Adrienne Jany Photo Editor Kelly Zhu

t seems hard to believe, but the holidays are approaching once more. Although I always enjoy the festivities, thinking of suitable presents is a recurring nightmare. One preferred solution to my annual dilemma is to give Andrew Harper memberships as gifts. This may seem rather unimaginative of me, but I’m pleased to say they’re invariably well-received. Over the years, Andrew Harper has expanded to a point where I sincerely believe we offer an unrivaled range of products, services and benefits. The Hideaway Report remains the most reliable and authoritative source of information about luxury travel, and The Andrew Harper Collection is a unique repository of travel wisdom. In addition, the Travel Office is skilled at crafting travel arrangements of complexity and sophistication, and membership brings with it a remarkable range of valuable benefits. So I urge you to follow my example: Andrew Harper memberships make ideal gifts for family, friends and valued business colleagues. After decades of globe-trotting, I still believe travel to be one of the supreme pleasures of life. Give the world as a gift this coming holiday season: Call (866) 831-4314, or visit AndrewHarper.com/go/gift.

Harper Collection Updates I have recently updated two of my personal travel guides, France & Monaco and Northern Europe & Russia, which feature my hotel recommendations, regional notebooks, touring maps and restaurants. Books are mailed bimonthly to new and Premier members, and they are also available for individual purchase or as a set at AndrewHarper.com/store/ harper-collection.