TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES
ANTARCTICA
A grand voyage aboard the National Geographic Explorer
APRIL 2016
BELIZE
From the jungle to the beach — pleasures and blunders
COVER PHOTOGRAPH NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC EXPLORER ZODIAC IN CIERVA COVE, ANTARCTIC PENINSULA / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER
It’s a calm breath. A warm smile.
An unexpected courtesy.
It’s where. It’s why. It’s Sentient.
FROM THE EDITOR
I
find myself asked constantly about cruises to the Great White Continent. And the Andrew Harper Travel
Office is deluged with inquiries. I assume this is partly because Antarctica is so far removed from the world’s troubles. Ironically, a place with the world’s most extreme climate is now perceived to be safe. I first sailed to Antarctica in 1981 on the pioneering MS Lindblad Explorer. Recently, I decided to journey aboard the successor ship, the 148-passenger National Geographic Explorer. Although there are other attractive high-end cruise options — which I describe in this issue — the Explorer is a true expedition ship, with the highest possible ice rating, capable of cutting through ice almost three feet thick. Unlike virtually everywhere else I have visited in my wandering life, Antarctica has remained exactly the same. With its soaring peaks, teeming wildlife and colossal icebergs, the continent is just as
ABOVE
View from our room aboard the National Geographic Explorer as we crossed below the Antarctic Circle
strange, remote and hauntingly beautiful as it was 35 years ago. A cruise to the Antarctic is one of the most overwhelming travel experiences. At times, amid its vast pristine emptiness, you feel that you have taken a trip to another world entirely. In complete contrast, this issue also contains an account of my recent visit to Belize, a tiny tropical country that has long been one of my favorite destinations in Central America. With the world’s second longest barrier reef, dense forest, aston-
ABOVE
A green sea turtle I chanced upon while snorkeling off Ambergris Caye / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER
ishing birdlife and romantic Mayan ruined cities, few places contain so much variety within so small a space. Although my attempts to find new hideaways were only partially successful, my previously recommended beach resorts and jungle lodges remain as alluring as ever.
Andrew Harper travels anonymously and pays full rate for all lodging, meals and related expenses. Since the inception of The Hideaway Report in 1979, the featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email aharper@andrewharper.com. Editor-in-Chief ANDREW HARPER Art Director KRISTINA MITCHELL Copy Editor JONATHON DOSSIER Research Editor ADRIENNE JANY Photo Editor KELLY ZHU
CONTENTS APRIL 2016 1
ANTARCTICA 4 > A 14-day voyage to the Antarctic Peninsula aboard the National Geographic Explorer bequeathed memories for a lifetime.
16 > Port Lockroy Museum 18 > Cruise Notes: Ice, Wildlife, Tips and Books 20 > Additional Antarctic Cruises 22 > Arctic Trip Options
2
BELIZE 26 > A return visit yields pleasant surprises and severe disappointments in this country of coral reefs, Mayan ruins and jungle wildlife. 32 > Beach and Jungle Classic Lodges
38 > NEW AND NOTEWORTHY
34 > Gourmet Food and Rum
41 > LAST WORD
36 > Mayan Cities and Sacred Caves / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER
WATCH VIDEO OF OUR TRIP ONLINE PHOTO A BEAUTIFUL DAY IN THE LEMAIRE CHANNEL
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ANTARCTIC CRUISE ADVENTURE
ANTARCTICA IS THE PLACE OF THE MOMENT. Cruises sell out a year in advance, and the Andrew Harper Travel Office is deluged with inquiries. Perhaps this is because the continent is far removed from the world’s troubles. On an overcrowded planet, Antarctica’s emptiness and purity could be part of the appeal. For many, the teeming wildlife is probably the primary draw. And in an era with too few leaders of stature, maybe the nobility of explorers like Ernest Shackleton is especially magnetic. But for whatever combination of reasons, the Great White Continent is a staple of cocktail party conversations and the 2016 destination of choice.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDREW HARPER
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PHOTOS (L TO R) CAPTAIN AT THE BRIDGE, SUITE AND FITNESS ROOM ABOARD THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC EXPLORER; ZODIAC EXCURSION
A
ntarctica has exercised a special hold on my
with the National Geographic Society, and its flagship today
imagination since, as a boy, I read the story of
is the National Geographic Explorer. While there are other
the ill-fated Shackleton expedition. His ship, the
attractive high-end cruise options to Antarctica (see Page
Endurance, was trapped and wrecked by the ice. After a
7), in light of the anniversary I decided to journey aboard
heroic journey to seek help, Shackleton returned to rescue
the successor ship to the one that first took me to Antarc-
all of his men, 100 years ago, in August 1916.
tica 35 years ago.
This year also happens to be the 50th anniversa-
At 5.4 million square miles, Antarctica is larger than
ry of the first commercial trip to Antarctica, in 1966,
the contiguous United States and nearly twice the size of
organized by Lindblad Travel, as the company was then
Australia. It is the coldest, driest and windiest of the seven
called. Lars-Eric Lindblad pioneered expeditions to places
continents. Most of it is covered by a vast sheet of ice — on
previously inaccessible to the general public, and in 1981 I
average over a mile thick — that contains about 70 percent
sailed to Antarctica aboard his first ship, the MS Lindblad
of the world’s fresh water, although the continent receives
Explorer. The original company ceased operations in 1989;
less than 6 inches of precipitation a year. In winter, tempera-
its heir is Lindblad Expeditions, now under the direction
tures in the interior range from minus 40 to minus 94
of Lars-Eric’s son, Sven-Olof. Since 2004, it has been allied
degrees. Fortunately, there are outlying coastal areas that
D R A K E PA S S AG E
S
H
E
T
N
D
S ND LA
T
U
O S
U
L
A
I N
E
BROWN BLUFF
TRINIT Y
D U S E B AY
MIKKELSEN HARBOUR
GERLACHE STRAIT
I C
JOINVILLE
HANNAH POINT
N
S
P
A N TA R C T I C SOUND
LIVINGSTON
H
Our route aboard National Geographic Explorer
LA
IS
BRABANT C I E RVA COVE
ANVERS
T
WEDDELL SEA
A N TA R
C
PORT LOCKROY LEMAIRE CHANNEL
BOOTH 0
GRANDIDIER CHANNEL
100 MI 100 KM
0
R ENAUD CHILE PAC I F I C OCEAN
C R YS TA L SOUND A N TA RC TI
C C IR C LE
ADELAIDE
USHUAIA
A N T A R C T I C
C I R
ANTARCTICA
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AT L A N T I C OCEAN
FA LKLA N D I S LA N DS
SOUTH G EO RG IA
D R A K E PA S S AG E
LARSEN ICE SHELF LALLEMAND FJ O R D
ARGENTINA
C
A N TA R CT I C P E N I N SU L A L
E
are gentler, most notably the Antarctic Peninsula, where
Georgia Island, adding another week. We opted for the short-
daytime summer temperatures are usually in the high 20s.
er trip solely due to other travel commitments. Glancing
On a map, Antarctica looks like a stingray. The Antarctic
over the proposed itinerary, it seemed vague bordering on
Peninsula is the tail, pointing to the tip of South America,
evasive — but the reason is that everything the ship does is
from which it is separated by 630 miles of the Southern
dependent on the prevailing sea and ice conditions.
Ocean. In summer — December, January and February —
Our journey began in Buenos Aires, where we joined
Antarctica’s waters are alive with penguins, seals, whales
our fellow travelers for an afternoon of sightseeing, followed
and seabirds. All come to feed on the vast swarms of krill,
by a cocktail/briefing session and an early-morning flight
a small shrimp-like crustacean that is the cornerstone of
to Ushuaia. Passengers ranged in age from 9 to the late
the Antarctic ecosystem.
70s, and included singles, couples, families and people
Our chosen cruise followed a route from Ushuaia, Argentina, across the Drake Passage to the South Shetland
from more than half a dozen countries (though a majority were from the U.S.).
Islands, and then along the coast of the Antarctic Peninsula.
The six-deck, 367-foot National Geographic Explorer
In total, we spent 11 days on board. Many Lindblad cruises
joined the Lindblad fleet in 2008 after a complete retrofit
also incorporate visits to the Falkland Islands and South
and redesign as an expedition ship. For travel in polar
“
OUR DAYS WERE FILLED WITH SHORE LANDINGS AND ZODIAC TOURS, AFTER WHICH WE’D GATHER IN THE LOUNGE FOR HORS D’OEUVRES AND COCKTAILS, A DAILY RECAP AND FORECAST.
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PHOTOS (L TO R) FRIENDLY ADELIE PENGUINS AT BROWN BLUFF; CRABEATER SEAL, GENTOO PENGUINS AND SOUTHERN ELEPHANT SEAL; HUMPBACK WHALE
8
seas, the hull was strengthened to a rating of Ice-1A Super,
reproduction of the National Geographic Society seal, and
the highest attainable, meaning it can easily cut though
a curved front desk that made the staff more accessible.
ice almost three feet thick. Other safety features include
I couldn’t call the appointments luxurious, but they were
forward-scanning radar, high-definition ice radar and a
casually elegant and functional. The corridors provided
xenon-bulb light mounted on the mast to illuminate and
judiciously placed handrails and were decorated with
reflect ice at night. At times we could feel bumps and
striking prints of marine life taken by National Geographic
shakes as we went through the ice, but I never felt any
photographers.
concern — although at breakfast one morning, after some
Passenger accommodations are primarily on the main
pronounced shudders, a fellow passenger wondered whether
deck and the upper deck, where you’ll also find the lounge,
“the captain’s opted for an overland route.” All 81 cabins
the bistro and the restaurant. Other public areas are the
are outside facing, and include 13 with balconies, plus six
chart room, with coffee, tea and soft drinks available
large suites and 14 cabins for single travelers, making for
throughout the day; the fitness center, with sweeping views
a regular complement of 148 passengers.
though three walls of windows; and the spa, with sauna and
The reception area gave us our first look at the ship’s
treatment rooms. My favorite spots were on the topmost
interior. I was impressed by its polished floor with an inlaid
Bridge Deck. Unlike most cruise ships, the bridge is open
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around the clock, and it became my habit to head there
— and a glass top that served as a display for a National
shortly after sunrise to converse with the naturalists, to
Geographic atlas, opened to Antarctica, that slid out for
pick up tips on seabird identification and to learn what to
further consultation. The extremely comfortable bed was
look out for on the day’s excursions. Also on the top deck is
positioned so that it was easy to see through the big porthole.
the library/observation lounge, a wonderful glass-enclosed
And the well-designed bath proved larger than expected,
space and a perfect spot for watching the passing scene,
with dark-blue tile accents, a walk-in shower and plenty of
binoculars at the ready.
shelf space for toiletries.
Like the rest of the ship, our cabin had an unfussy
After departing Ushuaia, the ship entered the Drake
aesthetic. Practical rather than luxurious, it came with
Passage, notorious for having the roughest seas in the
neutral carpet and walls, plus wood laminate furnishings.
world when the weather is bad. Coming or going, you will
It provided more than enough storage, including drawers
get either the “Drake Shake,” which means you’ll be tossed
with push-button hardware for securing them in rough
about — even though the ship is equipped with stabilizers
seas, and open closet space. A desk was equipped with a
— or the “Drake Lake,” with smooth sailing. On the voyage
full array of plug-ins for electronics — the satellite Wi-Fi is
out, we had calm seas, which gave us a chance to settle into
slow and comes at a supplemental charge, but it does work
the routine of the ship.
“
ONE AFTERNOON, SIX HUMPBACK WHALES CAME UP RIGHT NEXT TO THE SHIP.
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“
THERE IS A SAYING ABOUT ANTARCTICA: ‘THE FIRST TIME YOU COME FOR THE PENGUINS, THE SECOND TIME FOR THE ICE.’
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  11
GLIDING PASSED AN ICEBERG NEAR BOOTH ISLAND ON OUR ZODIAC
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PHOTOS (L TO R) CRABEATER SEALS ON BOOTH ISLAND; CRUISING THROUGH THE ICE AT CIERVA COVE
12
A good part of the first day was devoted to briefings
of each excursion with one or more of the naturalists.
and presentations in the lounge, where comfortable seat-
Passionate about Antarctica, approachable and generous,
ing is arrayed around a central speaker’s podium. The 14
they had scouted the location before our arrival, noting what
members of the expedition team introduced themselves
animals were where and setting out small orange cones to
at a morning briefing. By my calculations, they had more
remind us to keep a safe distance from them. While walk-
than 250 years of combined experience in the field. Their
ing through their colonies, the penguins would sometimes
specialties included ornithology, marine biology and geol-
approach to peck at our boots, but mostly they just waddled
ogy, and some were actively engaged in scientific research
by without a look. With their experienced eyes, expedition
supported by the National Geographic Society. Also among
members invariably caught things we would have missed:
them were ever-helpful certified photo instructors and a
an unusual macaroni penguin, for example, embedded in
photographer from National Geographic.
a crèche of molting Adélie chicks. On another occasion,
Once we had traversed the Drake Passage, our days were
a naturalist directed my attention to the shore where a
filled with shore landings and Zodiac tours. The passengers
penguin scanned the water, wary of a patrolling leopard seal.
were divided into six groups to ensure that no site was
The penguin did not look carefully enough — immediately
overwhelmed. I found it useful to spend the first moments
after it splashed into the sea, the unfortunate creature was
HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016
seized by the seal and disappeared beneath the waves.
kayaks (designed to be extremely resistant to capsizing).
There is a saying about Antarctica: “The first time
We were cautioned to keep back 25 feet from the larger
you come for the penguins, the second time for the ice.”
icebergs in case they “calved,” but gliding past with the
Icebergs melt faster beneath the water — the sea being
only sound being the splash of our paddles was like being
much warmer than the air — and after a while they tend
in a vast outdoor sculpture exhibition.
to flip over to reveal astonishing wave-crafted shapes.
Every evening after we’d changed for dinner — dress
Powerful winds then further erode their irregular surfac-
on the ship is casual — we would gather in the lounge for
es. We had daily opportunities to get out on the water to
a daily recap. Fortified with hot hors d’oeuvres and cock-
explore. On one foray we ventured among extraordinary
tails — it’s been a while since I saw so many martinis — we
formations, including one with an enormous tunnel. Most
listened to a rundown of events and a preview of possibili-
striking was the intense neon blue that seemed to emanate
ties for the following day. Next came a lecture from one of
from icebergs of all shapes, the result of air in the ice that
the naturalists: the role waves play in the shaping of ice;
has become so compressed that it allows only blue light
key markers in identifying seabirds; how to get the most
to escape. On another afternoon, conditions were so calm
out of your camera. This was followed by reports from the
that we were able to leave the ship in two-person inflatable
scientists on board: what they discovered on their dives
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PHOTOS (L TO R) THE EXPLORER DUG INTO THE ICE IN LALLEMAND FJORD, SOUTH OF THE ANTARCTIC CIRCLE; PASSENGERS HEAD TOWARD RESTING SEALS
that day; what the remote underwater vehicle had recorded;
had wondered if, given the emphasis on nature and off-ship
what the tagging of killer whale populations had revealed.
excursions, the food might not be at the level experienced
I loved these occasions, not just for the wealth of
on more obviously luxurious vessels. But we found the dish-
information but also for wonderful camaraderie that was
es to be creative, well-cooked and attractively presented.
a hallmark of our time on the ship. I attribute this atmo-
Breakfast and lunch were served buffet style with an almost
sphere chiefly to the crew, who were engaging, friendly
daunting variety of options. Dinners were presented at table,
and contagiously cheerful, without being overly familiar.
with choices such as rack of New Zealand lamb, magret of
One evening I lingered after the recap while everyone else
duck and baked fillet of Arctic char. Seating was open. In
went off to dinner. As I sat there, the expedition staff spread
addition to the dining room, we could eat in the adjacent
throughout the room to clear away the empty glasses,
casual bistro, opt for a light lunch in the observation lounge
napkins and plates. They were soon joined by the captain
or enjoy dinner as an invited guest with members of the
himself, an illustration of the “all hands” mentality that
crew in the chart room.
informs the entire vessel.
excursion stands out. Having enjoyed fine weather for
life aboard. Their quality proved to be a real surprise. I
most of our trip, the captain set a course to take us below
“
LOOKING BACK AT OUR SHIP, OUR REFUGE IN THE WILDERNESS, I WAS REMINDED OF THE APOLLO ASTRONAUTS WHO, HAVING VENTURED OUT ON THE PLAINS OF THE MOON, TURNED TO SEE THEIR FRAGILE LUNAR LANDER.
14
Each day produced its own roster of wonders, but one
As is true on all cruise ships, meals set the rhythm of
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the Antarctic Circle (this is not always possible). Having
Unlike virtually everywhere else I have visited during
crossed the line, we entered a tranquil fjord flanked by
my wandering life, the Antarctic has remained exactly the
impressive snowcapped hills. A vast ice sheet lay ahead. To
same. The Antarctic Peninsula, with its soaring peaks, glori-
our amazement, the ship plowed straight into the ice. Crew
ous wildlife and colossal icebergs, is just as strange, remote
then disembarked to assess the conditions, and when they
and hauntingly beautiful as it was 35 years ago. Climate
had assured the captain that the ice would support us, we
scientists warn of the potential catastrophic collapse of the
exited through a doorway on a lower deck, crossed a small
West Antarctic ice sheet, an area larger than Mexico, but
bridge and walked out onto the frozen ocean.
for now the Great White Continent appears to the traveler’s
Most of us paused for a moment, striving to come to terms
eye just as it did to Shackleton, precisely a century ago. H
with the extraordinary experience. After a while we walked across to where some seals were resting. Looking back at our ship, our refuge in the wilderness, I was reminded of the Apollo astronauts who, having ventured out on the plains of the moon, turned to see their fragile lunar lander. For a moment I understood the feeling of being on another world.
Lindblad Expeditions’ National Geographic Explorer “Journey to Antarctica: The White Continent” is a 14-day trip (also offered on the 102passenger National Geographic Orion). Category 3 Accommodation, $34,380 for two. Rates include all meals and non-alcoholic beverages; hotels ashore as indicated in the itinerary; sightseeing and entrance fees; special access permits; park fees; port taxes; and group flights. Lindblad Expeditions. Tel. 800-397-3348. expeditions.com
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PORT LOCKROY MUSEUM A
ABOVE
A gentoo penguin guards the British flag. OPPOSITE
Colony of gentoos beneath Jougla Point; coal-fired stove, bedroom, radio room and supplies at Port Lockroy museum / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER
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surprising high point of the trip
its big coal-fired stove and a full range of
was our visit to Port Lockroy, a
supplies in original containers. Apparent-
former British base that has been
ly the staff ate well, but for variety would
restored and now operates as a museum. It
resort to penguin eggs. I will rely on reports
is located in a sheltered harbor off the coast
that they taste good, but better scrambled
of Wiencke Island, which was discovered in
than fried, as the cooked “white” remains
1873 by German explorer Eduard Dallmann.
translucent. Not surprisingly, room was
Norwegian whalers established a floating
found for a bar in the living room. Nearby,
factory here in 1911, and whaling remained
a gramophone provided entertainment for
at Port Lockroy until 1931.
the Saturday “drinks night.” Murals of the
Lat e i n World Wa r I I , t he Br it i sh
Hollywood stars Jayne Mansfield, Marilyn
constructed three bases on the Antarctic
Monroe and Ava Gardner had been paint-
Peninsula. Port Lockroy was designated
ed on the wall of each bunk by the diesel
“Base A.” Following its brief wartime service,
mechanic, Evan Watson.
Base A became an important center for
None of us came to Antarctica to shop,
scientific work and study until 1962. Then,
but we found opportunity in the gift boutique.
the scientists moved to more up-to-date
The shop also serves as a post office — an
stations and Port Lockroy was closed.
official branch of the Royal Mail — that
In 1996, under the auspices of the
processes more than 70,000 postcards a
United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust,
year dropped off by visitors. First-day issues
Base A was restored as a museum that
are in demand by stamp collectors the world
faithfully shows what life was like in the
over, as is the Port Lockroy postmark, so a
original outpost. I have to think that the
postcard home can serve as a good souve-
inhabitants must have been as struck by
nir. A portion of the funds goes to support
the awesome setting as I was, with its huge
the work of the United Kingdom Antarctic
glaciers spilling down into the dark gray sea
Heritage Trust.
from snowcapped mountains emblazoned by the early morning sun.
To make the trip complete, Goudier Island and adjacent Jougla Point are home to
The base and its principal structure,
gentoo penguins and large numbers of blue-
Bransfield House, sits on Goudier Island,
eyed shags. We also spotted the occasional
an easy landing by Zodiac. Inside the snug
tern, opportunistic skuas looking to snatch
Bransfield House, the past came alive. There
penguin chicks, and sheathbills who nest
was a bath, with a tub upended to make space
under the front door to Bransfield House. On
when not in use. And on the shelves were
Jougla Point, a plump Weddell seal resting
tubes of toothpaste in original containers. I
nearby stayed so still, I initially mistook it
especially enjoyed seeing the kitchen, with
for a rock. H
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  17
CRUISE NOTES
A Few Tips In advance of departure, we received a digital Expedition Guide for our trip, which included a detailed packing list, as well as thorough information about binocular and camera equipment. I would offer the following additional suggestions to make the journey even more enjoyable.
The Many Guises of Ice
I
f you thought that ice was a fairly straightforward
substance, and chiefly of use for cooling a gin and tonic, then Antarctica will be a revelation. You quickly realize that ice comes in an astonishing array of shapes and sizes. Brash ice refers to accumulations of floating fragments not
1 the continent in winter; so named by the explorer Captain James Cook in 1774. Pancake ice is circular pieces of floating ice formed by accretions of brash and/or frazil ice. Icebergs are formed when pieces break off rom the Antarctic ice sheet, ice shelves
more than six feet across.
or glaciers. Any piece of ice
Fast ice gathers at the edges
the surface of the ocean is clas-
of the continent, remains
sified as an iceberg. Pieces that
stationary for several years and can attain thicknesses of several yards.
that rises 15 feet or more above
rise between five and 15 feet are called bergy bits; those than one foot are growlers.
tals that have been agitated by
There are two principal types
wave motion. It looks like slush
of iceberg: tabular, with table-
and has a depth of up to 10 feet.
like tops — the largest calved
by accumulating ice crystals. It looks like an oil slick and has a sheen and low reflectivity that provide its name.
off he Ross Ice Shelf in 2000 and measured 185 by 23 miles — and non-tabular. When the latter become top-heavy from their immersed portions melting away, they turn over,
Pack ice is made up of thin
exposing fantastic ice sculp-
plates of ice that form around
tures. San Suu Kyi.
FROM TOP Pancake ice in the Grandidier Channel; tabular icebergs in the Antarctic Sound / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER
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Over the first couple of days, I noticed fellow passengers baffled as to why their pictures were dark. It turned out that, when buying cameras for the trip, they had been advised to purchase polarizing filters to counteract the glare from the snow and ice. These are unnecessary. Instead, buy a UV filter for each lens, which will correct the color and add a layer of protection.
6
At some point you will want to clean your camera and binocular lenses in the field. Instead of removing my gloves and fumbling in my pocket, I relied on a little Spudz pouch that clips on to the straps of both devices and holds a tightly packed microfiber cloth.
2
Knee-high waterproof boots are a must. Even though we wore wool socks, I inserted fleece insoles. Others complained of cold feet; we did not.
less than five feet and more
Frazil ice is created by ice crys-
Grease ice forms in open water
Although the recommended headgear is a wool ski cap, it cannot counter direct light from the sun. The Squall Cap from Lands’ End is insulated, and has a fold-down flap that covers ears and the back of the neck, as well as a brim large enough to block direct sunlight. I worried that the brim might cause it to fly off n windy days, but that never proved to be a problem.
5
3
Spudz pouch
A neck gaiter of the type well-known to winter sports enthusiasts is a must.
4
Although the material from Lindblad included information on binoculars, I was surprised at the number of people who did not use or bring them. I found them invaluable both on and off he ship. The top brands are Swarovski and Leica. Zeiss and Leica models are sold on board. If you are making a first foray into binoculars, Nikon’s Prostaff 7 s an exceptionally good model at a modest price.
7
Travel in a Zodiac can kick up spray and the weather can become wet very quickly, so I found it useful to have a rain cover for my SLR camera. This is easy to fit over the body and lens, and short of dropping the camera in the water, it will keep all but the lens filter dry. I also recommend bringing a few gallon-size sealable plastic bags for cameras and lenses, and snack-size bags for holding memory cards and smaller accessories.
Antarctic Wildlife
A
s is true with every trip to view wildlife, there are no guarantees. These are the creatures we saw on our Antarctic voyage, and you will have a very good chance as well. BIRDS Our sightings depended very much upon where we were. In the Beagle Channel at the start of the trip, we saw large numbers of kelp gulls, cormorants and petrels. Once into the Drake Passage, we were amazed at the number of albatross we spotted. In Antarctica, we frequently sighted skuas and Antarctic terns; and on two occasions, the brilliant white snow kestrel. There are 17 species of penguins in the world. The three that we saw in abundance were gentoos, chinstraps and Adélies.
Bookshelf
H
ere are the books that I found most useful in preparing for our trip, and while there.
Endurance by Alfred Lansing is a page-turning classic that tells the story of Sir Ernest Shackleton’s ill-fated but ultimately heroic second expedition to Antarctica. The Endurance by Caroline Alexander also tells the Shackleton story with more information; she wrote her
SEALS Crabeaters are the most common seal in the world. Slender with a dog-like head and a uniform coat, they are gregarious, and we often spotted groups of them on ice floes. Contrary to their name, they subsist mostly on krill. Weddell seals have more dome-shaped heads. They tend to be solitary and seem oblivious to the presence of humans. We were able to get close to individuals that had hauled themselves up on rocky shores for naps. Leopard seals take their name from their mottled coats and their carnivorous tastes. They feed on penguins and the pups of other seals, as well as fish and krill. Antarctic fur seals are the continent’s only eared seals. They are fierce, especially in defending their territory on beaches, and have made a remarkable recovery from near extinction. Southern elephant seals are not hard to identify. They can be enormous: up to two tons. The name comes from the pronounced male proboscis, which inflates to create a resonating chamber to amplify the male’s bellow. WHALES Sightings are very much a matter of chance. We had the good fortune to come upon a pod of killer whales one afternoon, and had the excitement of watching a small scientific team from the ship pursue them in a Zodiac in an attempt to attach satellite tags. We also spent an enthralling afternoon among six humpback whales feeding on a huge mass of krill. From the ship, we could hear their great exhalations and then spot their spouts. At one point, some of them came up right next to the ship for a few moments. Antarctica is also home to blue, fin and sperm whales. The most common species is the smaller minke whale.
book 29 years later. It has the added benefit of striking photographs taken by the expedition photographer, Frank Hurley (who saved the negatives before the Endurance sank beneath the ice). End of the Earth by Peter Matthiessen recounts the author’s two journeys to Antarctica. Matthiessen writes with a keen eye for nature in an almost lyrical style. The Worst Journey in the World by Apsley Cherry-Garrard describes the author’s harrowing experiences as a member of the disastrous 1910-1913 British Antarctic Expedition led by Robert Falcon Scott (who did not survive). One of the great adventure stories. A Complete Guide to Antarctic Wildlife by Hadoram Shirihai comprises illustrations, photographs and maps in the most detailed reference work on the subject. At 544 pages, it was too heavy to carry along, but I consulted it often on my return. Antarctic Wildlife: A Visitor’s Guide by James Lowen turned out to be just right for taking on the trip. Usefully organized by area, it contains excellent photographs that are helpful in identifying species. Terra Incognita by Sara Wheeler is a narrative of her year on the ice as a guest of the National Science Foundation at the McMurdo Station, written in a personal, anecdotal style. There are also excellent DVDs: South, which assembles the original film of the Shackleton expedition; March of the Penguins, narrated by Morgan Freeman; Antarctica, a combination of two PBS Nature documentaries; and Frozen Planet, from the BBC documentary team that made the incredible Planet Earth series.
FROM TOP Gentoo penguins on Booth Island; fur seal at Mikkelsen Harbour; humpback whale tail / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER
HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016
19
ANTARCTIC CRUISE OPTIONS W
hen contemplating a cruise to the Antarctic, it is vital to think
SILVERSEA
carefully about your personal
Silversea ships, I can attest to the high
priorities. Do you want a luxurious voyage,
levels of service that they provide. The
or are you in search of a wildlife adventure?
appointments are more luxurious than
Is it the quality of the lecturers and natu-
those on Lindblad. A culinary partnership
ralists, or that of the food and wine that is
with Relais & Châteaux ensures on-board
of primary importance?
cuisine of a high standard. Journeys to
Hav ing been a f requent passenger on
the Antarctic are currently on the Silver Explorer, a purpose-built expedition ship that accommodates 130 passengers. Its ice rating of 1A is not quite as high as that of the Lindblad ships. A team of 11 experts accompanies the voyage and joins Zodiac excursions. Antarctica itineraries are scheduled from November 2016 to early March 2017. Veranda Suite for 10-day trip, $32,970 for two; Veranda Suite for 18-day trip, $52,410 for two. Tel. 888-978-4070. silversea.com
SEABOURN This company puts a premium on luxury. Recently, it made a transition from smaller vessels to “Odyssey” class ships, which accommodate up to 458 passengers. The newest, Seabourn Quest, launched in 2011 and was reinforced in 2013 to give it an ice rating of 1D, lower than the other ships covered here. And with such a large complement of passengers, the Quest will not have the ABOVE
Ponant’s Le Boréal near South Georgia Island
20
HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016
same access to Antarctic landing sites — restricted to fewer than 200 people — as the others. However, its Antarctic cruises have a full expedition staff of lecturers, naturalists and photo instructors. Two cruises at the
end of 2016 follow a 21-day itinerary from
ABERCROMBIE & KENT
Valparaiso, Chile, to Buenos Aires, with six
A&K charters Le Boréal and Le Lyrial for
days in Antarctica and numerous stops in
its two Antarctic itineraries of 12 and 17
Patagonia.
days, respectively. The special Family New
Veranda Suite on the November 28 cruise, from $25,998 for two; and Veranda Suite on the 24-day trip departing on December 19, from $31,998 for two. The same prices apply to the two 2017 trips, scheduled for January 12 and February 2. Tel. 855-545-7619. seabourn.com
Year program departs on December 28 for
PONANT
ABOVE
Seabourn Quest in the Neumayer Channel
a 12-day trip. A&K’s own highly respected expedition teams are on board for these cruises. Deluxe Stateroom for 12-day trip, $28,990 for two; Deluxe Stateroom for 17-day trip, $43,990 for two. Tel. 888-611-4711. abercrombiekent.com
This French company has made its mark in recent years with sleek vessels that look more like mega-yachts than conventional cruise ships. The three ships that sail Antarctic itineraries — Le Boréal, Le Soléal and Le Lyrial — limit the number of passengers to 199 so that they can visit restricted sites. All cabins have balconies. The décor is “stylish contemporary,” and great emphasis is placed on comfort. The ships are all equipped with up-to-date safety devices and have ice ratings of 1C, not as high as the Silversea and Lindblad vessels. Ponant has a fully qualified expedition staff. Antarctic cruises
LINDBLAD EXPEDITIONS As well as the voyage we took, Lindblad Expeditions offers a 24-day itinerary that includes Antarctica, the Falkland Islands and South Georgia Island. Cruises are aboard either the 148-passenger National Geographic Explorer, or the 102-passenger National Geographic Orion. Trips begin in November 2016 and run through February 2017. Category 3 Accommodation, $54,260 for two. Tel. 800-397-3348. expeditions.com
are scheduled from mid-November to early March. Generally, itineraries are 11 or 16 days; the final March sailing is 22 days and ends in Cape Town. Deluxe Stateroom for 11-day voyage, $24,920 for two; Deluxe Stateroom for 16-day voyage, $26,840 for two. Tel. 888-400-1082. ponant.com
Expert staff in the Andrew Harper Travel Office will be delighted to discuss the merits of all the ships above. Tel. (800) 375-4685 or email reservations@andrewharper.com
HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016
21
ARCTIC CRUISES
ABOVE (L TO R)
“Land of The Ice Bears” trips are offered by Lindblad Expeditions; The Silver Explorer in Greenland
M
any Harper subscribers have expressed strong interest in travel to the opposite end of the world. Whereas Antarctica is a continent surrounded by ocean, the Arctic is frozen ocean surrounded by continents. Most of the inquiries I get about the Arctic focus on polar bears. Here are cruise options that will address that passion.
LINDBLAD EXPEDITIONS Although Lindblad offers several Arctic
“Land of The Ice Bears” trips are set for June 4, 11, and 18 on the 148-passenger National Geographic Explorer. The 17-day itinerary includes Svalbard, as well as explorations of the Norwegian coast with its dramatic fjords. These are scheduled for July 2 and 15 and will be on the 102-passenger National Geographic Orion. Category 5 accommodation, $27,220 for two on 11-day trip. Category 5 accommodation, $39,520 for two on 17-day itinerary. Both cruises will have a full expedition staff of naturalists, a photo instructor and a National Geographic photographer on board. Tel. 800-397-3348. expeditions.com
itineraries, they have crafted two that focus
22
HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016
on “the king of the ice.” Both will take you
SILVERSEA
to the Svalbard archipelago, which lies
Silversea, too, has several Arctic programs,
between Norway and the North Pole. On
w ith five 10-day journeys centered on
the Zodiac landings other animals may
Svalbard, which has proven to be a place
also be seen, including walruses, whales,
where polar bears are sighted with reliability.
seals, Arctic foxes and reindeer. And, as in
All voyages are on the 130-passenger Silver
Antarctica, there will be icebergs. The 11-day
Explorer with a full expedition team of
specialists who will lead Zodiac landings and
passengers and has a full staff of naturalists
provide on-board lectures and programs. At
and specialists. Deluxe Stateroom on Set
the time of writing, the early cruises with
Sail for Spitsbergen cruise, $14,440 for two;
departure dates of July 3 and July 13 show
Deluxe Stateroom on Best of Spitsbergen
availability, while the seven-day July 23
cruise, $15,300 for two. Tel. 888-400-1082.
and 14-day July 30 trips have waiting lists.
Ponant.com
Veranda Suite for 10-day voyage, $20,970 for two. Tel. 888-9784070. silversea.com
PONANT There are many Arctic options in the Ponant schedule with four cruises journeying to the main island of the Svalbard archipelago, Spitsbergen. Currently, the eight-day “Set Sail for Spitsbergen” cruise, which leaves
ABOVE (L TO R)
Walrus in the Svalbard Islands, Norway; National Geographic Explorer near Greenland
ABERCROMBIE & KENT A&K charters Le Boréal for one 15-day Arctic cruise that commences August 2 in Spitsbergen and then journeys to Greenland and Iceland. A&K’s expedition team will be on board. Deluxe Stateroom, $32,990 for two. Tel. 888-611-4711. abercrombiekent.com
from Tromso, Norway, on June 27 and two
eight-day “Best of Spitsbergen” cruises,
Expert staff in the Andrew Harper Travel Office
which depart on July 4 and 11, are still
will be delighted to discuss the merits of all
available. All of these voyages are aboard
the ships above. Tel. (800) 375-4685 or email
Le Boréal, which accommodates up to 264
reservations@andrewharper.com
HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016
23
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24
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•
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•
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HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016
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HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016
25
BELIZE
P H O TO G R A P H Y BY A N D R E W H A R P E R
FROM THE
JUNGLE TO THE
BEACH
26 
HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016
T
he tiny country of Belize packs an astonishing range of attractions into a space slightly larger than New Jersey. The Mayans left numerous enigmatic ruins, ranging from small ceremonial centers to major
cities such as Caracol, thought to have had 150,000 inhabitants at its height in the eighth century. Forests of tropical hardwoods and palm trees house hundreds of colorful bird species, such as keel-billed toucans and scarlet macaws. The world’s second-largest barrier reef protects the coastline and shelters a rainbow of marine life. And just above sea level, picturesque cayes and barrier islands are home to mangrove forests, white-sand beaches and small-scale resorts. With a population of just 350,000, Belize has done an outstanding job
ABOVE
Green sea turtle off Ambergris Caye; view from Ridge Suites at Belcampo Belize; beach at Victoria House, Ambergris Caye (see our classic favorites on Page 32);
of protecting its environmental and historical riches. More than half of its primary forest remains intact, and at least a quarter of the country’s land and sea is set aside as national parks and nature reserves. Local people are more or less fluent in English, the official language. And outside of a few rough neighborhoods in Belize City, a place of little interest, the country is safe.
HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016
27
NEW HOTEL VISITS: PLEASANT SURPRISES & SEVERE DISAPPOINTMENTS
M
any visitors spend all their time by the coast on Ambergris Caye, but my favorite Belize itineraries include time both by the sea and in the jungle. Belcampo Belize, near Punta Gorda in the relatively undiscovered southern province of Toledo, is
the rare property that affords easy access to both. Although set high on a hillside, it takes only six minutes by funicular to descend to the Rio Grande, where Belcampo has kayaks and a large pontoon boat for snorkeling and fishing excursions. The resort comprises some 12,000 acres of land, including a forest-shaded cacao plantation — Belize’s largest — and fields of sugar cane destined to be distilled into rum in Belcampo’s new on-site distillery. The jungle gives way to ornamental tropical gardens and the resort’s 16 accommodations, the most desirable of which are the four Ridge Suites, built on the crest of the hill. A short funicular (or long staircase) connects the Ridge Suite complex, complete with its own infinity pool, to the rest of the resort below. Aside from their very spacious ABOVE
interiors, the suites’ most attractive features are their wide furnished terraces with hot
Morpho butterfly at the familyfriendly Lodge at Chaa Creek (See Page 32)
tubs, overlooking either the sunrise and distant coast (suites 13 and 16), or sunset and
OPPOSITE
Dining terrace, pontoon boat at the river dock, and restaurant at Belcampo Belize
jungle-covered hills (14 and 15). Alas, these accommodations were all full, so we opted for a Deluxe King Suite, which proved to be comfortable and attractive (request suite 1, 2 or 4 for the most privacy). Beneath a beamed ceiling, we found an open-plan space with tile floors painted white, two inviting rattan armchairs, a campaign-inspired desk and leather chair, and a firm king bed flanked by basket-shaded hanging lights. To the left of the bed, sliding doors opened to a screened-in porch with two sofas and a table hewn from half a log. At the other end of the suite, the bath contained a contemporary trough sink of polished concrete and an immense walk-in shower, clad entirely in pebbles. A tall window in the shower overlooked the jungle, allowing one to bathe and bird-watch simultaneously. Unseasonably cool weather left us with little inclination to use the small pool, nor did we work out in the little “Jungle Gym,” which has attractive views of the forest. But Mrs. Harper did take advantage of the compact spa, where she had a restorative and well-priced scrub of brown sugar, cloves and cacao nibs, a treatment that also included a mini-facial. Belcampo’s other principal amenities are its stylishly decorated bar and restaurant, housed within a two-story building overlooking the treetops. The cocktails proved be memorable, notably the Spicy Mayan, a refreshing and well-balanced drink of muddled allspice leaves shaken with white rum, lime juice, simple syrup and culantro elixir (a wild cilantro liqueur). Dishes in the restaurant — aside from one misconceived main course of Gulf mackerel with undercooked grilled bok choy and useless chunks of crispy rice — tended to be simply presented but satisfying. I especially enjoyed the fresh fish tacos with papaya salsa; mackerel crudo with ginger and mint; and snook tikini, a dish of crispy fish with a stew of tomatoes, onions and peppers over mashed plantains. Some 70 percent of the ingredients used by the restaurant come from the property’s own organic farm.
28
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  29
“
The bath contained a walk-in shower clad entirely in pebbles; a window overlooked the jungle, allowing one to bathe and bird-watch simultaneously.
On occasion, service at Belcampo was clumsy. For example, when Mrs. Harper emerged from her spa treatment and expected to have some tea in the waiting room, she found the chairs covered with cushions from the pool loungers outside. Similarly, one night we returned to our suite after dinner to discover that all the decorative pillows on our bed had been stacked in one of our armchairs. Nevertheless, our stay was enjoyable, and I would happily return in the future to try more of the resort’s myriad activities and excursions.
W
e headed next to San Ignacio, an ideal base for exploring Mayan cities such as Xunantunich, Caracol, Yaxha and Tikal, which rank among the most compelling ruins in the world. I opted to stay at Ka’ana , a 17-room contemporary resort set
amid colorful gardens not far from my longtime San Ignacio favorite, The Lodge at Chaa Creek. We chose a Master Suite, one step down from the villas with private plunge pools. Although we had plenty of outdoor space, including a daybed and outdoor shower in the back and a small furnished terrace in front, the interior felt like a large deluxe room, not a suite. It had a comfortable king bed, a dinette and a built-in desk, but no sofa or armchairs. I liked the airy vaulted ceiling, the ample storage space and decorative touches such as Mayan-inspired paintings. But the bath did not feel luxurious, with faucets that didn’t fit the twin vessel sinks properly and a glass-block window illuminating the shower.
ABOVE
Shower and bedroom of our Deluxe King Suite RIGHT
Fish tacos; “Spicy Mayan” cocktail
30
HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016
ABOVE
The restaurant, with a shady terrace and fire pit, served unfussy but delicious food,
Our Master Suite entrance, private garden in with outdoor shower, and bedroom at Ka’ana
such as fresh shrimp ceviche; Mayan dukunu (sweet corn porridge) topped with spicy sausages; gnocchi with tomato and basil; and perfectly cooked double-cut molasses-glazed pork chops. Drink orders could be problematic, because the lone barman was clearly overwhelmed at peak times. And when I remarked to our waitress that my cocktail tasted tart and unbalanced, she replied, “Yes. It’s very rare for people to like that drink.” (She did not offer to replace it.) A spa with two treatment rooms stood behind the small infinity pool. Farther into the gardens, a broad wooden deck hosts complimentary yoga classes twice a week and the occasional private dinner. All these features I liked, but it was difficult to forgive the resort’s location just off the main road. The whoosh of cars constantly reminded me of civilization, which is precisely what I’d wanted to escape. Ka’ana has cheerful staff, wellrun excursions and very comfortable accommodations, but I always wished I were back at The Lodge at Chaa Creek instead.
W
e decided to finish our stay with some relaxation on the coast. The secluded resort
El Secreto is about 30 minutes by speedboat north of San Pedro, a colorful and touristy city on Ambergris Caye. This 13-villa property is located along a
palm-lined stretch of well-groomed beach, raked daily by the staff. The indoor-outdoor restaurant has a soaring thatched roof, as does the sand-floored open-air bar; a lounger-lined infinity pool overlooks the sea. Our spacious and pretty Sea Villa also had a vaulted thatched roof, a soft king bed, a comfortable sofa and a beach-view terrace with a hot tub surrounded by gauzy curtains. True to its name, the resort had secrets. There were the small surprises, such as the $4 fee for each small cup of black coffee at breakfast and the fact that a staffer had to turn our hot tub’s heater on two hours in advance of when we wanted to use it. Several guests we spoke with were also surprised that seagrass and shallow water prevented swimming from the beach (complimentary kayaking and paddleboarding were available, however). Most irritating was the secret that the hotel allows non-guests full run of its facilities. A group staying in San Pedro monopolized the main pool’s hot tub, calling for loud reggae
“
True to its name, the resort had secrets … Most irritating was the secret that the hotel allows non-guests full run of its facilities.
music to “get the party started.” After too many frozen margaritas, they decamped to the sofas in front of the check-in desk, where three of them proceeded to pass out. In short, El Secreto is unlikely to be a Harper recommendation anytime soon. H
HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016
31
LONG STANDING FAVORITES: CLASSIC BELIZE RESORTS & LODGES
I
have traveled to Belize regularly over the past
that the shallow surrounding waters are ideal for
three decades. During that period, a number
bonefishing but not for swimming. Essentially this
of hotels and resorts have become established
is a hideaway best suited to couples in search of
favorites. On my recent trip, I went in search of
privacy and seclusion.
new discoveries, but my thoughts often turned to properties where, on previous visits, I have been fortunate to spend so many happy times.
ABOVE
Belize is home to the world’s first jaguar sanctuary, making it the perfect destination to spot these felines in the wild.
THE BEACH
A
THE JUNGLE
M
uch of Belize is mountainous and covered with dry tropical forest. Surrounded by a
365-acre nature reserve, the eco-resort The Lodge
lthough Belize faces the Caribbean, the coun-
at Chaa Creek is set on a grassy ridge above the
try has few beaches of note. This is because a
Macal River, not far from the small town of San
long barrier reef creates a vast saltwater lagoon
Ignacio and close to the border of Guatemala.
between the coral and the shore. The snorkeling
The property’s 23 palm-thatched cottages come
and diving may be superb, but beds of turtle grass
with screened sitting areas and spacious veran-
often impede direct access to the water. This need
das; some offer outdoor showers and Jacuzzis. I
not be a great inconvenience. At Victoria House
particularly recommend the Garden and Treetop
on Ambergris Caye, a long wooden pier extends
suites. Activities at the property include horse-
from the beach to a clear swimming area beyond
back riding, canoeing, hiking, bird watching and
OPPOSITE (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT)
the weed. A plantation-style hotel, Victoria House is
escorted trips to spectacular ruined Mayan cities
an oasis of tranquility, despite being just 15 minutes
such as Tikal, Caracol and nearby Xunantunich.
Cabana at Chan Chich Lodge; Beach Villa at Cayo Espanto; Beachfront Villa at Victoria House; swimming with nurse sharks near Cayo Espanto; keel-billed toucan near Chan Chich Lodge; and Treetop Suite at The Lodge at Chaa Creek
by golf cart from the bustling town of San Pedro and
Chaa Creek is ideal for a family vacation and chil-
its tiny airport. The property has a well-equipped
dren between ages 7 and 15 will find themselves in
dive shop staffed by experienced instructors, and
paradise. Adults in search of tranquility may be
guides are available for saltwater fly-fishing. For
happier elsewhere.
32
me, however, much of the property’s appeal derives
Chan Chich Lodge is located on a 130,000-
from its lovely tropical gardens and consistently
acre private nature reserve. The 12 one-bedroom
friendly and obliging staff. Victoria House is a place
and two three-bedroom thatched-roof cabanas
to settle into a lounger beneath the palms and to
are set in the plaza of an ancient Mayan city, and
read for hours undisturbed. The quality of the 42
all around there are enigmatic green hummocks
accommodations is inconsistent, and the regular
concealing structures long since buried beneath
casitas are too simple to appeal to a majority of
several feet of soil. Chan Chich feels remote; noctur-
Hideaway Report readers. I recommend only the
nal jaguar sightings are not uncommon. Naturalists
Infinity Suites, the Rainforest Suite and the deluxe
lead guests on hikes through the dense forest,
units in the three beachfront villas.
where the birding is exceptional. Although Chan
Set on a private islet, 10 minutes by speedboat
Chich could scarcely be described as luxurious,
from San Pedro, Cayo Espanto is a resort also
it is comfortable and atmospheric. The property
suited to lazy afternoons with a long novel. Its seven
will chiefly appeal to those with a deep interest in
lavish cottages offer stylish living areas, separate
the natural world. I have recently received several
dining spaces and private beachfront sundecks
enthusiastic reports from subscribers, which have
with heated infinity plunge pools. All rooms have
led me to raise the property’s rating in the 2016
personal butlers, and meals are served on private
update to the Central & South America section
verandas. Cayo Espanto’s principal drawback is
of the Harper Collection. H
HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016
MEXICO
AMBERGRIS CAYE
1
SAN IGNACIO YAXHA
3
SAN PEDRO HOL CHAN MARINE RESERVE AND SHARK RAY ALLEY
BELIZE CITY
5 TIKAL
2
GREAT BLUE HOLE
BELMOPAN ATM & BARTON CREEK CAVES JAGUAR RESERVE
4
XUNANTUNICH CARACOL
0
30 MI 30 KM
REEFS R E C O M M E N D E D H O T E L S ( R AT I N G)
1 Cayo Espanto (93) 2 Victoria House (92)
NIM LI PUNIT LUBAANTUN
3 The Lodge at Chaa Creek (94)
6
4 Blancaneaux Lodge (93)
PUNTA GORDA
BELIZE 0
PLACENCIA 7
GUATEMALA
Caribbean Sea
5 Chan Chich Lodge (93)
HONDURAS
6 Belcampo Belize (91) 7 Turtle Inn (91)
HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016
  33
GOURMET BELIZE: COOKING CLASS & SPICE FARM TOUR
F
ew tourists head to Belize specifically for the food, but that doesn’t mean the country is a gastronomic backwater. The fresh seafood is a particular joy. Vibrant Caribbean and Spanish flavors infuse many dishes, and chefs have rediscovered Belize’s Mayan
culinary heritage. We had a delightful time taking a Mayan cooking class with Clarita at Ka’ana. Cooking over a wood fire, we learned to make tortillas from scratch; tamales with chicken in a sauce of garlic, tomatoes, cilantro and achiote; and atole, a warm, rich drink of corn masa thinned with cinnamon-infused water. It’s quite likely that the cinnamon in our atole came from a farm in Belize, which has a climate well-suited to growing a range of spices. While staying at Belcampo Belize, we made an excursion to a spice farm that we toured on foot and by golf cart. Our guide showed us cardamom plants, peppercorn vines and vanilla orchids, as well as allspice, nutmeg, tamarind and cinnamon trees. For anyone who has never seen these spices outside of a grocery store, the tour is fascinating. I was especially interested to learn how the Mayans chewed fresh allspice leaves to numb their mouths for dental work. The leaf does indeed have numbing properties, but chewing one left me with a renewed appreciation for Novocaine.
BELOW (TOP ROW) Cooking over a woodburning stove at the Mayan cooking class; the chicken and cheese taco we created with tortillas from scratch; (BOTTOM ROW) peppercorns on the vine, nutmeg fruit, and cinnamon tree branch at the spice farm / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER
34
HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016
MEMORABLE RUMS OF BELIZE
I
’ve yet to visit a Central American country in which I found the local rum to be disappointing. Nicaragua has my favorite, the rich and smooth Flor de Caña Centenario 18,
with Guatemala’s complex Ron Zacapa Centenario Sistema Solera 23 coming in a close second. Belizean distilleries make some commendable rums as well, and on this visit I made a point of sampling several of them.
TRAVELLERS 3 BARREL
TRAVELLERS FIESTA RUM
Made by Belize’s most famous distillery, this 3-year-old rum has a light and dry caramel aroma, and notes of vanilla and banana. Belcampo Belize’s bartender suggested pairing it with my chocolate tasting, and it worked beautifully with a brownie, becoming more spicy and powerful.
Travellers released this spiced rum in August 2015, and according to the local Ambergris Today newspaper, it’s “hangover free.” I didn’t test that dubious assertion, but I did try the rum mixed with a splash of coconut water. The drink tasted balanced, with appealing flavors of allspice, cinnamon and coconut. It reminded me a bit of Mexican horchata (sweetened rice milk flavored with vanilla and cinnamon).
TRAVELLERS 5 BARREL
ABOVE
Fiesta Rum is purportedly “hangover free”
Aged an additional two years, the 5 Barrel rum has more of a coconut note in its nose, deeper flavors of caramel and crème brûlée, and a lift of tobacco freshness on the finish. It wasn’t as interesting as the 3 Barrel with the brownie, but it cut right through some spiced chocolate pudding. TRAVELLERS WHITE RUM
This unaged rum appears most frequently in cocktails, but I tried it unmixed over ice. It was quite a pleasant surprise, with a clear note of chocolate followed by light spice and a touch of mint at the end.
TIBURON RUM
The finance director of a large Illinois car dealership came up with the idea for Tiburón. After purchasing a second home on Ambergris Caye, Basil DeStefano decided he wanted to make rum, and approached Travellers for help. Together, they crafted this blend of rums aged in used oak bourbon barrels from Kentucky. It had enticing aromas of vanilla, cinnamon and wood, and I enjoyed its classic vanilla and caramel flavors. The long finish started with some powerful spice and herbaceous freshness, eventually mellowing into more of a molasses tone.
ABOVE
You can also find Tiburón Rum in California, Texas, Illinois, Tennessee, Alabama and Florida. / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER
HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016
35
ANCIENT MAYAN CITIES
B
elcampo Belize stands near some intriguing and little-known Mayan sites, including Nim Li Punit and Lubaantun. The latter earned its name, which means “Place of the Fallen Stones,” after amateur archaeologist and treasure hunter Thomas Gann
dynamited the tops of several buildings in the early 20th century (the original Mayan name is lost to time). Despite his “excavations,” the site remains compelling, with reconstructed sections standing in contrast to the rubble. In the walls that escaped Gann’s depredations, the stonework shows impressive precision, with each block perfectly fit into place. Some walls even display traces of the original ocher paint that decorated the pyramids’ exteriors. To see several of the most well-known and spectacular Mayan cities, it’s better to base yourself at a luxury property near San Ignacio. The closest ruin is Xunantunich, but despite its proximity to town, we had the place virtually to
RIGHT
Ruins at Lubaantun OPPOSITE
Stucco friezes on El Castillo at Xunantunich / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER
ourselves. Xunantunich dates from the Classic Period and was first excavated in the 1890s, but recent archaeological work has unearthed several large buildings and a number of striking stucco friezes. The most remarkable structure is a 130-foot stepped pyramid known as El Castillo. A rough path (unsuitable for those with vertigo) leads to the summit, from where there is a stupendous, panoramic view that encompasses the whole site as well as forested hills extending far into Belize and Guatemala. We sat for half an hour with our backs against a stone, buffeted by a warm tropical breeze, reveling in the space and solitude. The border with Guatemala is just 15 minutes from Ka’ana and The Lodge at Chaa Creek, making its Mayan sites easily accessible from Belize. More than once we’ve toured the most popular ruined city, the majestic Tikal, but we’d never made time for enigmatic Yaxha, about an hour from the border. This expanse of nine plazas and some 500 buildings proved to be sensationally atmospheric, because again, we walked alone through the semi-excavated site. Numerous pyramids, palaces, observatories and ball courts have been unearthed, but many more buildings surrounding them remain covered in palms and strangler figs. The top of Structure 216 has sweeping views of the jungle and Lake Yaxha. We stood alone there at sunset, accompanied only by our guide, as the hoots of howler monkeys echoed across the treetops.
SACRED CAVES LEFT
Inside Barton Creek Cave
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T
he Limestone Bedrock beneath much of Belize is riddled with caves, which the Mayans regarded as portals to the underworld. They used some of them for important religious rituals, including human sacrifice. The most dramatic example of such a cave is Actun Tunichil Muknal (often abbreviated as ATM), the archaeological riches of which are accessible only by fording a river, swimming a stretch in the cave and doing a bit of light rock climbing. Not feeling quite that adventurous, we opted for a more relaxing visit to Barton Creek Cave. Our guide paddled our canoe through the vine-draped cave mouth, and slowly its soaring ceiling, dripping with stalactites, came into view. We quietly glided deeper into the cave, reaching the “Maya Bridge.” Near this arch-shaped rock formation spanning the water, we could see carefully placed clay pots, and even a human skull partially embedded in the rock. In the silence of the cave, the presence of the ancient Mayans felt eerily palpable.
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NEW & NOTEWORTHY Seaborn Spa Innovation
T
he new 600-passenger Seabourn Encore, with an interior designed by
Adam D. Tihany, and a restaurant under the aegis of Thomas Keller, is scheduled to enter service on December 4. Its official maiden voyage leaves Singapore for Bali on January 7, 2017. (Apparently, this 10-day inaugural cruise sold out in two days!) Aside from a spa with a full range of massage, detox, cleansing
Singita Lebombo Expanded
and wrap therapies, the ship offers The Retreat, billed as “the ultimate serene space.” At its center is a large whirlpool, sheltered from the elements by a flower-
F
ollowing the comprehensive
redesign of Singita Ebony Lodge, in South Africa’s Sabi Sand Game Reserve, Singita Lebombo Lodge is the latest of the group’s
shaped canopy, which is ringed with 15 private cabanas designed as luxurious living rooms. There, the fortunate occupants can relax while perusing the menu of spa cuisine, or indulging in a glass of Champagne or one of the specialty cocktails. Sounds like fun.
properties to undergo reinvention. Located on ABOVE
a private concession in
Redesigned loft-style suite and new lap pool at Singita Lebombo
a remote and wild area of Kruger National Park, Lebombo is famed for the bold contemporary design of its 15 loft-style suites and its dramatic position on a ridge high above the N’wanetsi River. The public areas have been enlarged and augmented by a new rooftop dining area, an interactive kitchen, a library and an additional 80-foot lap pool. Two new family suites have
ABOVE
also been created, which
Rendering of The Retreat on the new Seabourn Encore
can be combined to form a self-contained fourbedroom villa.
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Chinese Hideaway Hotels
T
he indefatigable Adrian Zecha, the founder of Aman resorts and now an octogenarian, has launched a typically imaginative new
venture. Zecha is the co-founder of Ahn Luh, a luxury hotel brand in China. Its first property, Ahn Luh Zhujiajiao, recently opened in the historic Qingpu district of Shanghai (30 miles to the west of downtown). The concept of the new group is to offer all the comforts of a modern hotel in an ancient Chinese cultural context. (Readers familiar with Aman Summer Palace in Beijing will readily understand the idea.) All Ahn Luh properties will have fewer than 100 rooms and are intended to be hideaways. Ahn Luh Zhujiajiao is based on a restored 600-year-old Ming Dynasty courtyard house and incorporates a Qing Dynasty opera stage. Each of the 35 surrounding villas has a traditional design, with its own courtyard and garden. Amenities include a restaurant serving local Chinese cuisine, a Tai Chi center and a spa where treatments draw inspiration from traditional Chinese medicine. Seven resorts are in development, the next being Ahn Luh Lanting, near Hangzhou, which is expected to debut next year.
FROM TOP
Facade and Pool Pavilion of Ahn Luh Zhujiajiao
Reader’s Choice
O
ur annual Reader Survey is now open, and we want to hear from you. Cast a vote for your favorite hideaways and resorts on our website at andrewharper.com/ reader-survey, and you could win a three-night stay at Sonoma’s Farmhouse Inn, including a private “Food & Wine Experience” at Artista Winery, airfare and more.
ABOVE
Room and vineyard at the Farmhouse Inn
HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016
39
LAST LOOK
ABOVE
Final moments of a lingering sunset in Grandidier Channel, Antarctic Peninsula / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER
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HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016
LAST WORD The End to Tiresome Connections?
H
aving recently completed
passengers declined drastically and the
trips to Myanmar and New
price of aviation fuel went through the
Zealand, my enthusiasm
roof. Ultra-long-haul became uneconomic,
for intercontinental flights
and we went back to changing planes.
is temporarily at a low ebb. I still like
Now, however, the sands have shifted
flying, which is just as well considering
once again. Aviation fuel is cheap and
how much I do of it, but the 16 hours from
new types of aircraft have more efficient
New York to Hong Kong, coupled with the
engines and lighter composite structures.
day-for-night 12-hour time difference,
The Boeing 777-200LR and the Airbus
left me shattered for at least three days.
A350-900ULR — the latter will have a
Actually, it’s not the really long flights
range of 10,350 miles — will shortly fly
that are the killer. It’s waiting around
us back to the status quo ante. At the
for a connection, and then the second
time of writing, the world’s longest flight
airplane, which do the damage. I was
is operated by Emirates from Dubai
fine in Hong Kong, but by the time I
to Panama City (17 hours 35 minutes),
reached Yangon, at 1 a.m. local time,
but Singapore Airlines has already
I was beginning seriously to question
announced that the nonstop New York
whether my long-haul traveling life was
flight will be reinstated. Ultra-long-haul is
quite as glamorous as people invariably
back. And if that means I spend less time
tell me it is. Before the Great Recession,
waiting around for connecting flights
the trend was for flights to get longer
while succumbing to a stupor of jet lag,
and longer. Singapore Airlines used to
then, frankly, I’m thrilled.
fly the 19-hour, 9,522-mile route to New York nonstop. Soon, I was told, you will be able to travel from any major city to any other major city on a single flight. Then the world economy went into free-fall, the number of First and Business Class
LEFT
The Boeing 777-200LR, used by Emirates for long-haul flights
HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016
41
NEXT STOP New Zealand & Hawaii
/ PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER
Full service travel planning is available to all members at (800) 375-4685 or reservations@AndrewHarper.com. For membership-related questions, reach us at (866) 831-4314 or clientrelations@AndrewHarper.com.
West Coast, South Island
newzealand.com/luxury
Vibrant and uplifting, spring in New Zealand is sublime - crisp days, new blooms and rare wildlife. Cherry blossoms and bluebells nod in the breeze, and baby lambs bleat in the background. Fly-fishing purists come to New Zealand, the ‘world’s best trout fishery’, in springtime to try their luck on ‘fresh’ Brown Trout, fish well rested over the winter months.
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Barcelona, Spain | Costa Brava, Spain Carcassonne, France | Provence, France Portofino, Italy | Monte Carlo, Monaco Cannes, France | Volcanoes National Park and Kigali, Rwanda | Okavango Delta or Kalahari Desert, Botswana | Cape Town, South Africa | Marrakech, Morocco | London $107,000 per person, double occupancy
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4 
HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016