Great Days Outdoors - April 2023

Suggsville Cedar Creek Retreat on the Alabama River

Clarke County, Alabama, 2840+/-Acres

• Conveniently, isolated, turn-key, riverfront property

• Old-growth, unthinned timber

• Main Lodge with 4 BD/ 2 BA, screened porch, outdoor dining/ rec room, and new deck

• Guest Cabin overlooking Cedar Creek

• Cedar Creek flows through the property for 3+ miles

• Waterfalls, superb fishing, swimming, canoeing/kayaking, ATV opportunities

• Guest Cabin with 5 BD/ 2 BA, a full kitchen, and a sleeping loft

• that can sleep 10.

• Additional small cabin overlooking a massive waterfall

• Timber value appraised at over $4 Million

• Mature bottomland hardwood and upland pine/hardwood

• Balance in areas of pre-merchantable pine/hardwood

• Cypress pond

• Diverse wildlife habitat

• Significant income opportunities through timber sales, carbon credit leasing, tax shelter, and mitigation credits

• Abundant deer, turkey, small game, waterfowl, wild hog, squirrel, and rabbit

• Strategically placed food plots

• 1 mile of Alabama River frontage for fishing, skiing, and boating

• Ideal for a conservation easement

Over 700 more tracts across 47 states available...

BEST BETS FOR APRIL

These are our top targets for hunters and fishermen this month!

BY WILLIAM KENDY

SPRING SPECKS

When it comes to inshore saltwater fishing in April in Alabama, the field is wide open. Mackerel, pompano, redfish, black drum, sheepshead, flounder and speckled trout are all available. Further offshore yellowfin tuna, wahoo and other species can be had.

A popular target in April is the speckled trout and here are a few tips from some experts.

Once the water temperature hits the upper 60’s the spawn kicks into high gear and the key is finding them. One way is to find the right water salinity which is over 15 parts per thousand and that rules out the upper reaches of Mobile Bay and the Mississippi Sound as they are still draining so hunt the lower regions. For spawning habitat, look for hard bottoms as in shell, rock, grass and sand.

Bait? Shrimp is always good as are jigs with plastic minnow or shrimp imitations including live minnows. Don’t forget topwater plugs, the Slick Lure and a popping cork outfit.

FRESHWATER ACTION

While bass are in the mix for April the crappie, depending on where they are swimming and the temperature, should be in the spanning stage. They will seek out cover and structure such as stumps, logs, whatever can provide a little protection from predators. They may be in shallow water even down to the two foot level but, depending on water clarity, may be found in deeper water.

Crappie are fond of small jigs, from 1/8 to 1/64 ounce with soft plastic tails an inch or two long. Yellow, chartreuse and white are popular colored jigs. Crappie will also readily bite on small minnows fished on size six or eight drifted over structure.

Another impetus for crapping fishing is you can keep 30 crappie a day (although size limit does vary on certain water systems). That is a lot of good eatin.

TURKEYS, TURKEYS, TURKEYS

Here at GDO we have explored just about every aspect of turkey hunting from how to attract turkeys to your property, habitat and food plot improvement, how to trap predators, strategy and tactics for turkey hunting, how to pattern your shotgun, best calls for turkey hunters and more. There is nothing I can say in this column that can teach you anything you don’t already know.

Here are a couple of very simple, obvious suggestions that may make a difference.

Practice sitting still… really still. Pretend your nose itches but your hands are tied. Don’t blink, don’t cough, clear your throat, don’t shift your butt and if your hand or foot falls asleep, deal with it. If a turkey sees you move, chances are he will be in the next county yesterday.

Take the time to put some quality boot time in prior to your hunting day and pattern the birds. You may have done some of this in March but things can change. Based on what you find, identify the best “stand” location.

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Golden tilefish are the largest member in their family and 40+lb trophies like the one pictured are always a possibilty .

Photo courtesy Chris Vecsey

Golden Tilefish in the Gulf of Mexico

BY CHRIS VECSEY

One of the most exciting things about fishing the Gulf of Mexico is the extreme biodiversity. There are targets aplenty both inshore and offshore. In recent years, deep dropping and slow pitch jigging have become a fun way to add variety to the fish box and scratch new species off at the same time.

The golden tilefish is one of the main species that live in these dark depths that have rapidly become a favorite to pursue. Main reasoning being that they are first-class table fare and are a wide ranging species that can be taken in all seasons.

KNOWING YOUR QUARRY

The Great Northern Tilefish, commonly known as the golden tilefish, is found in the western Atlantic from as far north as Maine and Nova Scotia, and south to Venezuela and Suriname. This includes the entire Caribbean and Gulf of Mexico. They live their lives at extreme depths, ranging from 400 to well over 1,000 feet.

They are the largest species in the family Malacanthidae, reaching weights of over 70 pounds.

Golden tilefish are voracious eaters, preying on crustaceans, mollusks and smaller fish. Their preference for crustaceans becomes obvious at the dinner table. The flesh has a crab-like consistency and sweeter taste than most of the other deep-dwelling species.

Golden tilefish, like most deep-water fish, have an impressive tolerance to the frigid conditions they live in. However, they do have their limits when it comes to colder temperatures. In 1882, the entire North Atlantic stock of golden tilefish were nearly wiped out when the warm waters of the gulf stream diverted further offshore, allowing extremely cold, subarctic waters to encroach upon their habitat. Ships reported seeing miles and miles of dead golden tilefish off the eastern seaboard, and tiles weren’t seen in the area again for nearly 10 years.

YEAR-ROUND OPPORTUNITIES

Whereas so many species in our region are subject to seasonal restrictions and low bag limits, golden tilefish can be harvested year-round. There are no minimum size restrictions and the federal bag limit for golden tilefish is *20 per person (*part of the federal reef fish aggregate).

Water temperatures along the gulf coast rarely escape the preferred thresholds for tiles. This means that tiles can be taken in all months of the year, making them a prime target or welcomed addition to any offshore trip.

Golden tilefish are still lightly pressured in our region, and can be

found in good numbers along the entire northern gulf coast.

Tilefishing takes the minimal in deep-drop equipment and can be taken with both manual and electric gear. Local tackle shops can help even the greenest of offshore anglers score gold.

HOW-TO LAY TILES

The first step in finding tiles is to position along ideal depth lines, generally outside of the 100 fathom curves. Whereas tiles can be found in a wide range of depths, 700-1100 feet are typically best.

Once the boat is lingering in the proper depth range, locating real-estate for golden tilefish could be likened to “unlearning” how to bottom fish. You typically want structure like rocks and ledges right? Wrong.

Golden tilefish prefer very feature-less, flat, mud bottoms. Tiles carve “burrows” into the mud with their hand-like pelvic fins. They typically form colonies of these burrows along flat “plateaus” with little to no-grade.

In order to find these colonies, an angler has to think the opposite of traditional bottom fish scouting, and as weird as it sounds, to look for nothing. The less grade the better and if your weight sinks deep into a muddy bottom upon impact, you’re probably in the right spot.

Rigging can be as simple or as elaborate as an angler makes it. Typically, a rig with anywhere from three to six hooks are used. Hook size depends on the baits to be used. Circle hooks from 7/016/0 can be used. Hooks can be spaced at varied distances along the rig and are often accompanied by glow beads or glow tubing, to catch the eyes of hungry tiles. In most cases, LED lights can/ will be placed at the top of the rig to provide additional lighting. Some debate that this is not necessary, but it never seems to hurt either. Anglers can always experiment and find what’s best for them.

On the bottom end of the rig, a snap swivel is typically used to attach the weight, which can range from two to eight pounds depending on the current and depth. A good safety measure is to attach the weight with a loop of 50-60 pound monofilament so that in the event of a snag, the weight can be sacrificed and the rig salvaged.

Tiles will eat most of the frozen bait choices that are available in most shops, with food-grade squid being a top pic. To me, nothing beats fresh baits with cut strips of bonito, mackerel or barracuda being the best choices. Many other species can be used as well,

just be sure to be aware of which species can and cannot be used legally, as many reef species cannot be harvested for this purpose.

Rods and reels can be both manual or electric, although most anglers prospecting for golden tiles turn to the electric option. In either scenario, reels should have enough power for bringing up heavy weights from these depths, and should maintain a capacity of at least 500 yards to keep retrieve rates appropriate.

Rods for golden tiles do not need to be specialized, and most deep drop rods offered in retail rods will do the trick. Unlike some other deep drop species, tiles do not have soft mouths and are less prone to pulled hooks.

Setting the hook and scoring multiple fish per drop is a matter of

paying attention and being more interactive. For one, tiles like to stay very close to the bottom, so maintaining contact with the mud through the drift is critical.

When a tile eats the bait, crank hard on the handle or apply power on to the motor, setting the hook. But for chances at multiple fish, a hooked fish can be kept near the bottom, encouraging other fish to join in on the feed. It can be a gamble however as sometimes fish are lost through this process.

Golden tilefish are a reliable and eager option on any offshore trip. Whether it’s the Plan A for the excursion or a backup if other targets are a no-show, they are the all-season species for a successful trip.

Deep gold! Golden tilefish are a sight to behold with a wide array of coloration

Photo courtesy Chris Vecsey

With a new asymmetric design, C6 Carbon frame to reduce body weight and Duragear™ Gen II gear system that pushes the limits of speed and power, every detail of the new Revo® X has been thoroughly sweated to be a difference-maker when you need it most.

FISH TO WIN

IT’S A FINE LINE ON THE LEADERBOARD BETWEEN FIRST AND TWENTY-FIRST.

Revo X Reels

5 Points to Consider in a Snake Gun

BY JOSH HONEYCUTT

A look at important snake gun facts, and a few specific examples to consider.

Snakes, more specifically venomous snakes, are common throughout the country. Some areas experience higher concentrations than others, though. According to the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department (TPWD) (https://tpwd.texas.gov/education/resources/texas-junior-naturalists/ snakes-alive/venomous-texas-snakes), there are approximately 15 different subspecies of snakes that are dangerous to humans and pets in that state alone. Zoom out, and most experts say 37 of these exist nationwide.

Just some of the snakes to watch out for include copperheads, coral snakes, cottonmouths (water moccasins), rattlesnakes, subspecies within these categories, and more. In the Deep South, Burmese pythons are also a major concern, as these non-native snakes have permeated ecosystems throughout Florida, and continue to expand. As such, no matter where you reside, a snake gun is a good idea. Here are five points to consider in a snake gun, and a few specific on-themarket options that check boxes.

1. Caliber and Gauge

The most important factor is the caliber or gauge in question. These guns are not long-range weapons. Rather, more times than not, users need something that patterns well at shorter ranges. Generally, that distance is one to five yards, perhaps slightly farther.

Historically, people routinely used a 20 or 12-gauge to dispatch snakes, if not a garden hoe or sharp shovel. Today, there are better options, though, especially with the advent of quality modern ammunition products. That said, perhaps the best option is the tried-and-true .410 shotshell. Otherwise, .38 Special, .40 S&W, .44 Special, .45 ACP, .45 Colt, and 9 mm snake shot, are likely the best caliber options.

Sometimes, depending on the scenario, either a rifle or shotgun might be better, though. For short-range accuracy, a shotgun is superior. When longer shots or precision shots are needed, a .22 LR might be the better selection.

2. Ammo

As ammunition continues to increase in price, and decrease in availability, it’s crucial to consider several factors. First, account for the price. Select a caliber that offers affordable ammunition. Secondly, the prevalence of it on the market. If it’s difficult to find on shelves, it might be best to choose something else. Thirdly, the effectiveness of the caliber and ammunition available is a consideration. Some calibers and brands within calibers offer better performance, reliability, and more.

3. Finish

The finish is less important for a good snake gun. That said, something

flashy isn’t necessary, or advised. This is a gun that will be routinely carried afield, and even if it isn’t shot much, it’s still going to take wear and tear. Therefore, it’s best to select a dull and durable finish that’s resilient to damage but also one that won’t hurt your feelings if dinged or scratched.

4.

Size

Most people prefer a snake gun that isn’t very large. Most choose a handgun option, or a shorter-barreled rifle or shotgun. Regardless of the specific category (handgun, rifle, or shotgun) how long and wide a gun is will impact ease of carry, storage volume, its success as a snake gun, and more. The more compact, the better.

5. Weight

Weight is also important. You don’t want a heavy carry option. This is true for rifles and shotguns. It’s also true in the handgun department, as most handguns that fit the bill are 16-30 ounces in weight, with the majority falling near the middle of that range.

SO, WHO NEEDS ONE?

Those who are considering getting a snake gun, likely should purchase one. There are many scenarios that call for one, especially in areas that harbor larger venomous snake population densities. It’s an even better decision for those who spend a lot of time in the field, live in problem areas, or who have people, pets, or livestock to defend. But what is the right gun for you?

5 GREAT SNAKE GUNS

For those who’ve decided to purchase a snake gun, there are several options to consider, especially in the handgun department. For those wanting a handgun, the following options are excellent choices.

Bond Arms Snake Slayer: A popular option and appropriately named, the Bond Arms Snake Slayer (https://www.bondarms.com/bond-armshandguns/snake-slayer-iv/) is an excellent carry for snakes. It’s avail -

able in .357 Mag/.38 Spl or .45LC/.410. It features a 4.25-inch barrel length, 6.25-inch total length, rosewood extended grip, front blade and fixed rear sights, and weighs 23.5 ounces. MSRP is $648.

Colt King Cobra: Another gun named for its common job, the Colt King Cobra (https://www.colt.com/series/KING_COBRA_SERIES) is a solid pick. It followed the Colt Cobra. The King Cobra arrived in 2019 and has done well since then. It has a heavy-duty frame, double-action revolver, brushed stainless steel construction, 3-inch barrel, and more. This is available in .357 Mag. MSRP is $899.

Taurus Judge: Perhaps the most famous option on the list, the Taurus Judge (https://www.taurususa.com/revolvers/taurus-judge) is a popular selection. It comes in 14 different style selections, and certain, unique features within each one. Finish and construction vary from one option to the next. However, these are generally offered in .410 and .45 Colt. Barrel lengths range from 2-6.5 inches, model depending. MSRP ranges from $509.99 to $619.99, specs depending. That said, the Taurus Raging Judge (https://www.taurususa.com/revolvers/taurus-judge/raging-judge-r-513-45-colt-454-casull-410-ga-matte-stainless-3-in) jumps way up to double that, at $1,167.75.

CONCLUSION

All things considered, there’s much to consider in a good snake gun. But remember, if you must use one, don’t pick up that dead snake. Their nervous systems still allow them pinpoint strike precision, even hours after death. According to the Center for Disease Control (CDC) (https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/topics/snakes/default.html), venomous snakes bite upward of 8,000 Americans each year. If you are bitten, and become a statistic, immediately seek professional medical help.

Smith & Wesson Governor: The Smith & Wesson Governor (https:// www.smith-wesson.com/product/model-governor-black) is a very compact, lightweight, and versatile carry gun. It has a 2.75-inch barrel, 8.5-inch total length, six-round capacity, single or double action, stainless steel barrel, synthetic grip, black finish, and night sights, and more. It does not have a safety. MSRP is $989.

Furthermore, the best snake prevention is avoiding them. First, unless you need to dispatch one, leave snakes alone. In some states, it’s illegal to kill a snake unless someone or something is in danger. So, certainly don’t handle or harass them. Keep safe distances between you and them. Furthermore, refrain from walking in areas where you can’t see the ground, especially taller vegetation. Piles of rocks, debris, and forest duff are snake hotspots, too. And of course, always wear long pants, snake chaps, and snake boots when outdooring in snake terrain.

FAQs

Q: How common are snake bites?

A: The CDC reports that 7,000-8,000 Americans are bitten by snakes each year.

Q: Is the .410 pistol the best snake gun?

A: Some refer to the .410 pistol as the best snake gun available.

Q: How effective is .22 snake shot?

Smith & Wesson Model 442: The Smith & Wesson Model 442 J-Frame Series (https://www.smith-wesson.com/product/model-442) is a more affordable option. This gun is lightweight and durable. It features a 1.88-inch barrel, 6.31-inch overall length, double-action revolver, lightweight alloy frame, polymer grip, black finish, stainless steel barrel, carbon steel cylinder, snag-free enclosed hammer, fiveround capacity, etc. It does not have a safety. It’s available in .38 S&W special. MSRP is $539.

A: Oftentimes, this isn’t a great choice for medium- to largesized snakes, but generally works fine for smaller ones.

Q: What are the rules on shooting snakes?

A: Every state has its own regulations on shooting snakes. Study up before dispatching one.

Q: What is the best overall gun type for snakes?

A: Most people who buy a snake gun purchase a handgun and caliber that also shoots shotshell.

Smokey Rattlesnake Chili

Ingredients

• 1 pound of rattlesnake meat, skinned, bone and de-rattled (can substitute boneless and skinless chicken thighs

• 1-pound boneless pork loin chops

• 5 teaspoons Olive oil, divided

• 2 teaspoons chili powder, divided

• 2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste

• 1 teaspoon ground black pepper, plus more to taste

• 2 onions, cut into ½-inch slices

• 1 jalapeno pepper, stem removed

• 1 red pepper, stemmed, seeded & cut into 4 large pieces

• 1 green pepper, stemmed, seeded & cut into 4 large pieces

• 1 can 28-ounce diced tomatoes

• 2 teaspoons cumin

• 2 teaspoons dried oregano

• 3 cloves minced garlic

• 1 cup beef broth

• 1 can 14-ounce pinto or kidney beans, drained and risked

• Shredded cheese, sour cream, avocado & cilantro for garnish

Instructions

1. Using Kingsford® Original Charcoal, build a fire for direct grilling and preheat to 400°F.

2. Coat the snake meat and pork chops with 2 tablespoons of the oil, and season with 1 tablespoon of the chili powder, 1 teaspoon of the salt and the pepper.

3. Place the meat on the grill and cook for 8–10 minutes, turning once halfway through. It’s ok if it’s not fully cooked, it will finish in the chili.

4. While the meat cooks, brush the onions and peppers with 2 tablespoons of the oil and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Grill for about 8–10 minutes, turning once, until softened and charred in spots.

5. Transfer the meat, onions and peppers to the cutting board. Cut everything into small dice and mince the jalapeño.

6. Heat a large pot over medium-high heat. Add remaining oil, and when hot, add the meat, vegetables, canned tomatoes, remaining chili powder, salt, cumin, oregano, garlic and beef broth.

7. Bring to a boil with the grill’s lid closed; then reduce heat and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 45 minutes to an hour, until everything is softened and comes together. For your safety, please reference the USDA safe cooking temperatures.

8. Add the beans in the last 15 minutes of cooking. Season to taste and serve hot, with cheese, sour cream, diced avocado and cilantro, for garnish.

SUPPORTING THE LOCAL ECONOMY & ECOLOGY

Admiral Oysters are now available for retail by the dozen at Bon Secour Fisheries, Inc. in Bon Secour, Alabama. Fresh, raw oysters can elevate any event. From a simple, nutrient dense appetizer at home to a shucking party with friends, Admiral Oysters will steal the show. Call 251.949.7411 for pricing and availability

Oysters grown at our farm are consistent in size and flavor profile. Frequent handling and wave energy at our unique location creates a sustainable environment in which our oysters thrive. This combination results in the perfect half shell presentation of the Admiral Oyster.

We are located near Fort Morgan AL, in an untouched wild stretch of beach that will be immune from development. The site has witnessed centuries of history including the Battle of Mobile Bay as Admiral Farragut charged into the Bay with the iconic line “Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead”. That motto comes in handy on cold rainy mornings and when the winds get high!

Visit Us at AdmiralShellfishCompany.com

Recipe and image courtesy of www.kingsford.com

My neighbor holding a 19 lb Flathead we caught on a large bream and 6/0 circle hook .

CHOOSING THE BEST CATFISHING RIG

BY DAVID STRICKLAND

For some fishermen, there’s nothing like straining against a rod that looks like a capital “C” and listening to your reel whine as a potential trophy peels line off the spool. But for many other fishermen, sitting on the bank of a lake, pond, or river and watching a couple of rod tips is just fine.

So, what fish in our state requires a stout rod, smooth drag, and a strong line? Two species of catfish that reside in many of our state’s rivers and reservoirs will test your equipment and back muscles.

However, any of our catfish species will provide an excellent excuse to tie a simple bottom-fishing rig, dig a few worms and head to the nearest creek, pond, or river.

TYPES OF CATFISH

Alabama has a reputation for serving plates full of “Southern Fried Chicken” and some great barbecue. However, for many, summertime also means paper plates and a platter full of catfish and hushpuppies.

Five different catfish inhabit our state’s waterways, and each will provide a good fight and fine meal. Our largest whiskered fish is the Blue, followed by the Flathead.

Several types of Bullhead, Channel, and White catfish also share the waters with our larger specimens. They each have eight whisker-like appendages surrounding their mouths called barbels. These slender tentacles are full of receptors to help them feel and smell/taste potential food at night and in muddy water.

Fishing for any species of fish can be fun and catfish have provided generations of Alabamian’s food for the table and an excuse to take their shoes off, plunge a forked stick into the ground, and sit on a riverbank.

BEST BAIT

Because catfish are relatively easy to catch and plentiful, they have garnered a prominent place on many home and restaurant menus.

I’ve seen, used, and heard of some unusual baits used to catch a catfish. Among them are soap, cheese, congealed blood, chicken livers, corn, onion, muscadines, hotdogs, deer meat, dog food, leftover hamburgers, shrimp, birds, frogs, and roadkill. Most catfish scavenge along the bottom for a variety of food, both live and dead.

Though the Flathead is considered a predator and often caught on live bait, it too can be regularly enticed with fresh cut bait. Catching any catfish is a relatively simple matter. First, position your bait in a likely spot and keep it where active cats can find it. Baits suspended under corks near the surface or lying on the bottom anchored by a weight will all catch fish.

Keeping your rig simple means fewer components to fail, knots to break, and a weight that won’t interfere with a natural presentation. In addition, they’re easier to tie, cast, and quicker to redo if broken off or abraded.

LOCATING FISH

Like any other species, catfish tend to hold near trees or rocks. In water between 40-50 degrees, position your bait in deeper water near depressions, humps, or structure.

I asked Capt. Mike Mitchell of SouthernCats Guide Service a few questions about his methods and what types of rigs and baits work best when fishing for larger fish. Mitchell is a nationally recognized catfish guide and successful tournament angler with years of experience locating and catching giant catfish.

Mitchell said that in the late fall, winter, and into spring, he mainly uses a trolling motor with Spot-Lock to maintain his boat’s position.

“We locate underwater humps and depressions and also target trees or rocks. In addition, we rely on my Humminbird’s Side-Scan to target specific big fish that appear on the sonar,” Mitchell said.

Mitchell’s usual method involves a “run & gun” approach where they sit on the fish or structure for about 20 minutes, then move to scan more likely locations and set up again.

He said heavy currents concentrate fish, and often minor adjustments to bait presentation will produce more bites.

BEST RIGS Big Fish

Mitchell described his primary setup for the larger fish they target.

“We use a standard slip-sinker rig with sinker slides that allow us to attach whatever size weight is needed to sink the bait and keep it in place. Often we use no weight in lakes and 8-12 ounces or more in rivers with a heavy current,” he noted.

He said they use Shimano 200 Charter-Special reels attached to heavy-action Catch the Fever Big Cat Fever rods.

“We use 40 lb mono-mainline (Slime Line) with a sinker slide attached to a 1/0 Crane swivel. We tie 7/0-10/0 Boss Cat circle hooks to a 100 pound test mono leader for abrasion resistance from sharp teeth and the rough cover we fish,” Michell explained.

He said that depending on where the fish are holding, they occasionally use a three-way swivel to float bait off the bottom, but the standard hook/leader/ swivel/weight setup is their go-to rig for most situations.

Smaller Fish

Downsizing your line, sinker weight, hook size, bait, and rod/reel combination is the main difference between catching a five or a 50-pounder.

The lake or river will influence the rig and bait you use. Commercial or homemade stink baits work best with treble hooks. Worms, live or cut bait, all work well with circle, Kahle, and J-hooks.

HOOKS

Treble- Commercial and garage-blended stink baits work well with treble hooks. However, depending on your concoction’s stickiness, a small sponge or a bait-holder hook might be necessary. A #6 treble works well for average-sized cats, but if your fish are consistently gut-hooked or you get into larger fish, switching to a #4 is a good choice.

Kahle or J- These are good for holding cut or live bait, and 2/0 to 4/0 works fine for most channels.

Circle- These are a self-setting type hook. Many guides use this type when targeting trophy-sized fish to help prevent gut hooking. It’s the best choice when practicing catch and release. 2/0 to 4/0 are good selections for channels.

8/0 to 10/0 sizes are the preferred hook for larger blues and flatheads because of their tendency to lip hook. However, learning the hook set can take practice because waiting for the line to tighten works better than snatching.

BIG BAITS

“Most of the baits we use are cut to hand-size or fished whole. We sometimes just cut the tail off or slit the sides of smaller bait, and we typically change baits every 30-45 minutes,” Mitchell. said. “We use fresh cut bait

and often use skipjack herring, gizzard shad, and mooneye when fishing the Tennessee and Mississippi Rivers.”

Mitchell targets both flathead and blues with cut bait. He said it works best for flatheads in the spring before the spawn because afterward, they don’t catch many flats again till late March or early April.

He primarily focuses on the Tennessee River but heads to the Mississippi River in the Summer and Fall.

“We occasionally travel to the Ohio River and a few lakes like Santee for major tournaments,” added Mitchell.

WATER TEMPS/ACTIVITY

In winter’s cold water (40 degrees or less,) large numbers of fish will gather in deeper sections.

Catfish slowly disperse from the deeper holes to midrange depths as water temps rise.

Fishing can be excellent during pre-spawn as fish feed in preparation for nesting. (61to 68 degrees)

The spawn typically occurs between 69 and 73 degrees, and fish become harder to catch.

Post-spawn is a great time to fill your cooler, so check those water temps and be ready to sling some bait as temps reach 74-75 degrees.

BANK FISHING RIGS

Ponds

A good spinning reel with a 12-20 lb test line and enough weight to keep

your bait still is good enough to catch average-sized catfish. Most fish will be in the deeper sections or near the dam during daylight hours.

Sometimes a slow-sinking bait with no weight will help you discover how deep the fish are holding. Then a simple switch to a slip cork set at the appropriate depth can be effective.

Rivers

Flat sinkers attached to a slider above a crane swivel are needed to keep your bait from rolling with the current, so a good selection of weights is critical for river fishing.

Most river systems are home to larger blues and flatheads but also have a good population of Channels. They also contain plenty of logs and underwater debris, which is great for holding fish and snagging hooks.

A three way swivel and drop-rig can help avoid hang-ups by keeping your bait off the bottom. Reeling a fairly heavy bare weight slowly across the bottom of your prospective fishing spot will allow you to feel for any obstructions and help you decide what rig to use.

CONCLUSION

So, gather a few hooks, crane swivels, weights, and sinker slides. Then get a few frozen shrimp or some stink bait and head out to your nearest fishing hole soon.

Important Contact Information

Capt. Mike Mitchell SouthernCats Guide Service

256-673-2250

We caught this Blue cat on a 4/0 circle hook and a live bream and the Channel in the background on cut bait .

Are Oysters Good for You?

BY STEPHANIE MALLORY

Many people love oysters for their pleasant texture and briny flavor, but did you know that nutritionists also consider oysters one of the top superfoods? In fact, from a nutritional standpoint, it’s hard to beat oysters as they contain more of a balanced ratio in a single serving of critical vitamins and minerals than most “super foods” and even some OTC supplements.

Anthony Ricciardone, co-founder of Admiral Shellfish Company, an aquaculture farm that produces delicious, fresh raw oysters for the premium half-shell market out of Gulf Shores, Alabama pointed out that Oysters are low in calories and high in protein.

“They have omega-3 fatty acids, which can help lower the risk of chronic diseases. They are packed full of Vitamins D, E, B-1, B-12, and B-3, and they contain iron and niacin that we all need daily. Compare all of these benefits to a vitamin or supplement in your medicine cabinet and you’ll see that oysters are far superior than some Ricciardone said.

“They are premade to deliver everything the body needs. Research has even suggested they help explain why some ancient coastal populations had healthy and vital populations.”

Ricciardone, who has a background in pharmacy, explained that oysters also include important elements, such as potassium, selenium, magnesium, copper, phosphorus and manganese. They’re also a great source of trace elements that the body needs in small amounts. All of the vitamins, minerals and trace elements contained in oysters work together to provide endless benefits for the heart, brain, immunity, skin, mood and sexual health and vitality.

Check out this breakdown of benefits:

• The skin receives benefits from zinc, Vitamin E and omega-3s, which improve its health and complexion

• The immune system receives a boost from zinc, Vitamin E and Vitamin C.

• Mood and energy are enhanced by B-12, zinc, Vitamin D, iron and protein.

• Brain function is helped by omega-3s, zinc and selenium.

• Heart and blood vessel function are improved with the help of Vitamin D, Vitamin C and omega-3s, which are critical. Magnesium also helps relax blood vessels and potassium helps with heart rhythm and tightness.

• Sexual health and vitality are supported by zinc, which helps with testosterone production and libido and helps produce healthy sperm and eggs. Vitamin D and Vitamin B-12 help in this area as well.

• Eye health is protected with Vitamin E and zinc, Vitamin D and B12.

Ricciardone said that out of all these vitamins and nutrients, omega-3s are perhaps the most important from a clinical standpoint.

“You hear a lot of talk about the importance of omega-3s for a healthy body. Many people will purchase and consume fish oil supplements to try to get their allotment of omega-3s, but those supplements are not all what they’re cracked up to be depending on the manufacturing quality. Some could be made with low-quality fish that may contain contaminants and heavy metals. And the plant-based supplements, such as flaxseed are not as absorbable. So, why not go right to the source for a healthy dose of omega-3s? Oysters are packed with it,” Ricciardone said.

GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR OYSTERS

The best way to get the most health benefits from an oyster is to eat it raw and consume the liqueur it’s resting in, which contains an assortment of vitamins and minerals. If you prefer to eat cooked oysters, just know you’ll lose some of the nutritional benefits when you begin to cook them, especially if you bread them and fry them in bad fats.

You also want to consume them when they are as fresh as possible. The longer an oyster sits on the shelf, the more it will start metabolizing those healthy qualities. And, no matter what, don’t consume an oyster that’s been sitting open for a long time. Oysters don’t die until they are shucked. If the oyster shell has been sitting there open for an extended amount of time, it means the oyster has been dead for a long time as well, which creates a breeding ground for bacteria.

While oysters are extremely healthy, there are some other conditions that can make them a danger to one’s health.

First, if you’re allergic to oysters, you should definitely avoid eating them. Even if your allergy has been mild in the past, you never know when you can have a severe reaction.

WATCH OUT FOR POOR OYSTER QUALITY AS WELL

“Oysters that come from water that doesn’t receive as much tidal flow or that grow near a lot of human development around them can contain pollutants that can hurt the consumer. And if there’s a local red tide or toxins in the water, the oysters can contain those pollutants as well,” Ricciardone said.

“We have no industrial or residential development near us, so the area where we grow and farm our oysters is very clean,” he added.

SAFER THAN EVER

The Admiral Shellfish farm is located on a remote stretch of beach near Fort Morgan. The farm benefits from clean, salty tides that flush in directly from the Gulf to the shallow and sandy banks. The conditions create an ideal site for healthy year-round growth and consistent salinity that nurture an impressive crop of oysters, which are easy to shuck, have a deep cup, beautiful shell, plump meat and a clean salty liquor with a savory seafood finish

Modern-day oyster farming and strict environmental rules and enforcement have made oysters safer to consume than ever.

“Alabama’s Department of Health has as strict regulations as any state in the country. We follow a written operation plan of what we can do and when we can do it based on the water and air temperature.” “These rules and regulations create a situation with way less risk than there once was. There’s been a lot of academic work and research to create a timetable and restrictions for oyster farming,” Ricciardone said.

He says the farm’s staff is trained under the state regulations and strictly follow the written procedures.

“We take steps to hold ourselves accountable with checks and balances and risk mitigations. We have a certain amount of time to get them to the processor who supplies the restaurants according to state guidelines. Of course, that differs per season. During hot summer months, we have less time than we do during the colder winter months,” Ricciardone said.

Oysters are not only a vital part of the ecosystem, filtering pollutants out of the water and providing habitats for other species, but they are highly nutritious, offering a wealth of health benefits when care is taken during their harvest and preparation.

Contact

Admiral Shellfish Company

54-1286 AL-180

Gulf Shores, AL 36542

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GAME CHECK IS MANDATORY FOR EVERY TURKEY HUNTER

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Pictured is Barry Smith, who has spent the majority of his life studying, spawning and raising bass to stock in public and private waters throughout much of the Southeast .

When Do Bass Spawn and How to Catch Them

BY JOHN E. PHILLIPS

Once you learn more about the various bass spawns, you’ll have more success catching bass.

Predicting when bass spawn in any lake, pond or river system is much like trying to predict the weather. You can use historical records to know when bass usually have spawned in a specific body of water but accurately predicting the beginning date of the bass spawn relies on too-many external factors that no one can control. However, if you can identify when the bass generally spawn where you’re fishing, you’ll have a good starting time to catch the biggest bass you’ve ever caught in those waters.

I’ve contacted my longtime friend, Barry Smith, the past Chief of Fisheries for Alabama’s Fisheries Section and co-founder and past owner of American Sport Fisheries. Smith has dealt with this issue in public waters as to when the spawn occurs, as well as in private waters. He is one of the most-knowledgeable people to predict the bass spawn.

According to Smith a female bass typically doesn’t release all her eggs at one time and isn’t biologically equipped to perform that task.

“A female bass usually releases about 1/4 - 1/3 of her eggs each time she spawns in the nest a male has made for her. Within a week, she may return to the same nest where she’s previously released her eggs or visit another nest and release another portion of her eggs – possibly spawning three times during the spawning period,” Smith said. “At our hatchery, we have spawned female bass as much as three times in a month. Biologists classify largemouth bass as incremental spawners, which means they don’t lay all their eggs at one time, unlike white bass that expel all their eggs at one time when they spawn.”

One factor determining when bass will spawn includes the length of days because as the days’ length of sunlight hours becomes longer, and the weather gets warmer, bass will spawn in a water temperature in the mid-60s or higher. Although Smith has no scientific reason to believe that moon phase affects the spawn, he’s observed that bass tend to spawn right before the full moon, through the full moon and right after the full moon.

HOW TO DETERMINE WHEN THE PEAK OF THE BASS SPAWN OCCURS ON WATERS YOU FISH

Smith emphasized that the best information on when the peak of the spawn happens on a body of water you fish can be learned by contacting your state’s fishery biologist responsible for that lake or river.

“Ask on what date the bass historically spawn in that specific lake or river you want to fish,” Smith advised.

Smith mentioned that from year to year, the time of the spawn may change. For instance, a cold spring’s weather can delay the spawn and

cause the bass to spawn later than usual. The spawn may occur earlier in the year than female bass historically have spawned, if the region has a warm winter and early spring.

HOW MALE BASS SIGNAL THE BEGINNING OF THE SPAWN

The bass spawn starts when the male bass moves into the shallow water in the spring. The male does most of the necessary work to create a bed where the female bass can spawn. He cleans off a spot on the bottom. The size of the bed he creates is determined by the size of the male bass that makes it. The bed is typically 1 to 1-1/2 times larger than the male bass that creates it. For instance, if the bass is a 12-inch male that weighs close to one pound, that male will sweep out an area about 18 inches in diameter for a nest. Although most males don’t grow very large, a male that weighs four to five pounds is considered to be big. He will sweep out a much-larger area on the bottom to create a nest for the female.

Some courting action occurs between the bass. The male bass will encourage the female bass to travel to the bed he’s created for her. When the newlyweds decide to go to their honeymoon nest, the male will be right beside the female. When she’s ready to lay her eggs, she’ll go to the middle of the nest and hold about two to three inches off the bottom. As she lays her eggs, the male will be beside her and start admitting his sperm. As soon as the male sperm touches the water, it becomes activated, and the sperm will contact and fertilize the eggs as the female lays them.

WHAT HAPPENS NEXT DURING THE BASS SPAWN

After laying her eggs, the female will swim to deeper water. She’ll stay there, until she gets the urge to spawn again and move back into shallow water. The male will remain on the bed with the eggs for five to six days to protect the eggs from predators like bluegills and other nest predators, while waiting for the eggs to hatch. The eggs will stay on the bed and feed off their yolk sacks, until they’re strong enough to swim-off the bed once their mouths are formed. Then they’ll eat tiny zooplankton. The male continues to protect the eggs and the young bass, called fry. The success of a spawn often is determined by how many bluegills are in the water, and how successful the male bass are in keeping predators away from the baby bass.

Once the fry can swim and move out of the nest, the male will stay with them to protect them until they’ve reached a length of 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inches. That’s one reason why anglers can easily catch male bass during the spawn, due to their still spending time on the nest to protect the unhatched eggs and fry. Another factor impacting the success of the spawn is the cannibalism trait of bass. If a larger bass is mixed-in with the smaller bass, the bigger bass will feed on the smaller ones. Female bass

When Do Bass Spawn and How to Catch Them often visit several nests of different males to lay their eggs to help insure a successful spawn.

HOW SPECIES OF BASS’S FRY ARE DIFFERENT

We’ve mainly discussed the largemouth bass spawn. However, Smith reports that smallmouth bass and spotted bass have different kinds of spawning traits than those of largemouths.

“The fry produced by the smallmouth bass have different schooling tendencies when they’re young compared to largemouth bass. Once the smallmouth eggs become fry and develop mouths, they don’t stay together in a school as the largemouth bass do,” Smith pointed out. “They randomly distribute themselves around the shoreline. So, the male smallmouth bass can’t defend the baby smallmouth bass like the largemouth bass do. The spotted bass are more like the smallmouth bass in that they don’t stay in a tight school either after they develop mouths.”

WHAT TACTICS CATCH BASS AROUND THE SPAWN

Smith and other fishery scientists have learned from electrofishing that the female bass, before the spawn, usually will hold in five to six feet of water and/or along the edges of drop-offs close to the shallow-water spawning areas.

Smith explained that the female bass may only spend as little as one day on her nest before she moves back to deeper water, while noting that he’s not a professional fisherman but has learned from his fishing experience,” he explained.

Smith prefers to fish a lipless crankbait then like Strike King’s Red Eyed Shad (www.strikeking.com) and the Bill Lewis Rat-L-Trap, since they can be fished at various water depths, depending on where the bass are holding during the prespawn. Also spinner baits and soft-plastics will produce

“In a hatchery situation, we’ve spawned big, female largemouths as often as three times within a month,” Barry Smith explained.

when the females are in the prespawn and the postspawn regions.

Once the female bass are on their beds, Smith likes to fish soft-plastic lures like lizards, creature baits and tube baits by casting out past the bass bed and then moving the lures into the bed. If the water’s clear, and you can see the female on her bed, this technique is called sight fishing. In stained water when you can’t see the female bass on her bed, you can fish these same lures on the shallow flats and/or near the banks where the females should be spawning. After the female spawns, she often will move into the shore and settle under trees, brush and underwater rock piles.

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THE BASS SPAWN

Smith emphasizes that an angler needs to know:

* the date on which the bass historically have spawned but realize its beginning may vary every year;

* not all female bass spawn at the same time. However, 75% of the bass will spawn during the same month;

* The largemouth bass in Alabama usually will spawn in late March or early April around the time of the full moon. But in various sections of the country, bass may start spawning as early as late February and continue until the first part of June.

* an individual female bass can and will spawn multiple times during the spawning season.

Once you learn the general times of the spawn where you’re fishing, don’t forget that the spawn may start one to two weeks later or earlier than usual, depending on the latitude, the longitude and the changes in the temperatures in the air and the water.

Roosting a Turkey Explained

BY DAVID STRICKLAND

Getting close to a large gobbler consistently requires a lot of skill, and a little luck .

I remember driving my old Volkswagen along the logging roads that crisscrossed the hills of our local hunting club in Greene County. I parked at the lowest point between two ridges, where a small creek flowed through a culvert under the road. As I searched for deer tracks, I heard a car horn in the distance.

I stood and tried to separate the echo from its origin. It blasted again. A couple of ridges over, I came upon my cousin Randy standing by his truck.

Before I could ask if there was a problem, he placed his index finger to his lips and whispered, “Sometimes they’ll gobble when a car door slams.” That was my introduction to what has become known as Roosting or pinpointing a turkey’s location as it settles in on a limb for the night.

WILD TURKEY

The turkey is one of the few game animals whose first name is “Wild” and its role in history is fascinating and instructive. There are five species of wild turkeys native to North America, and they can be found from New England to Florida, westward, and southward to Central Mexico.

Native Americans hunted turkeys for their meat and feathers, used their spurs for arrow tips and wing-bones for whistles, and eventually learned to domesticate them. Like many of North America’s forest dwellers, turkey numbers dwindled with the influx of early settlers. Nevertheless, the North American turkey population rebounded from an estimated 20-30,000 around the middle of 1800 till the 1920s, when restoration efforts began. According to the National Wild Turkey Federation, the wild turkey population stands at approximately 6.2 million birds with Alabama being home to about 365,000 of them.

Those years reflect a steep decline in turkey numbers along with turkey hunters. The remaining birds in the Southeast fled to remote tracts of large timber, and the once numerous hunting stories shriveled with their numbers. As a result, turkey hunting largely disappeared, and a generation of outdoorsmen could only listen to the old stories passed down through a gray-haired generation.

Various state and private agencies began conservation efforts after WWll, which eventually saw wild turkey populations restored in every state except Alaska. Turkey hunting achieved a milestone in 1991 when 49 states opened spring turkey seasons in the US, along with several Canadian provinces and Mexico.

Hunters again took to the woods in growing numbers, and celebrities emerged to introduce, entertain, and teach a whole generation of new hunters about the nuanced skills needed to seduce a big gobbler within shotgun range.

However, a recent assessment of declining turkey numbers and hunter-harvest data indicates that changes to Alabama’s spring season might not be far off. These alterations to hunting dates or bag limits will hopefully stave off current trends before turkey populations drop to levels that culminate in more drastic reductions in hunting opportunities.

TURKEY - [TUR-KEE]

So, how did our native North American turkey get its name? Several explanations have evolved regarding how the English word came about for this large bird.

One such theory is that Spanish explorers encountered indigenous populations in Mexico who had domesticated their native species. Several of these domesticated birds made their way back to Spain via ship on their return voyage. They eventually landed on the dinner tables of Europe and Middle Eastern countries via the trade route through Constantinople (Istanbul) and

were called Turkey coq, a French word for fowl.

According to historians, the British habitually added the prefix turkey to many items delivered by Turkish merchants. For example, the Brits called Persian carpets Turkey rugs, Indian flour was Turkey flour, and Hungarian carpet bags were Turkey bags. However, over time the term turkey fowl transitioned to simply turkey.

Supermarket turkeys are great for Thanksgiving, but there are lessons that hunters can learn nowhere else except in the pursuit of their wild counterparts.

LOCATING A ROOST

According to Mr. George Mayfield, roosting turkeys is a skill every hunter must master in order to increase their success rate. Many consider it a foundational step for every method of turkey hunting.

I spoke at length with Mayfield about various subjects. Still, he would not discuss the topic of roosting until he had first come full circle in describing their life cycle, terrain, strut zones, nesting areas, and pecking order. Afterward, he finished with his theory behind the evolution of modern turkey vocalization.

“Roosting a turkey”means finding where it sleeps in order to plan a successful morning hunt. Each night, as the sun sets, turkeys go to roost. Knowing its location the night before will dictate where we should hunt, no matter our method or tactics. He stated that learning the ins and outs of turkey roosting is the first step to learning turkey behavior and consistently fooling a gobbler.

Mayfield descended from a family of quail hunters, and he remembers plucking feathers into the late hours when his grandfather brought home sacks of birds.

“I began hunting turkeys about 50 years ago with friends in Mississippi,” Mayfield said. He has since hunted various species throughout the United States, been a guide, and successfully managed his own hunting lodge near Aliceville, Alabama. (The Roost)

Mayfield said he was fortunate to learn beside two of the best turkey hunters and storytellers our state has ever produced, Ben Ezell and Ben Rogers Lee. His education consisted of gleaning nuggets of truth from the many stories each told as they shared minute details after each hunt.

He said that learning what not to do was the basis for gaining enough confidence to harvest mature gobblers consistently and become proficient enough to become a successful guide and eventually enter into the business of guiding turkey and deer hunters.

ROOSTING/SHOCK CALLS

According to Mayfield, a shock gobble describes an instinctive call made by turkeys as a kind of knee-jerk reaction to raucous sounds. Various loud noises, other animals, bird calls, and even thunder can elicit a gobble from an anxious Tom.

For example, slamming a car door, beeping the horn, an owl hoot, crow calls, and coyote howls can each provoke a reactive gobble to help pinpoint a roosting area near sunset. These calls must be loud enough to carry far, followed by an intense silence to hear a distant response.

Mayfield added that cruising the backroads near sunset with an open window and various calls within easy reach allows for covering a lot of terrain in short order.

My nephew sacrificed a great deal of time and sleep to harvest this gobbler from a nearby swamp .

SCOUTING FOR TURKEYS

In flatter areas, turkeys tend to roost in the tallest trees. In the hill country, birds frequently roost along ridge lines or slightly below near a section known as the “military crest”. They tend to perch on elevated terrain if there’s any available.

According to Mayfield, twenty-year-old pines on the break of a hill make an ideal roosting site. He also said that turkeys seldom roost in the same tree each night but will be in the same general area. Groups of turkeys will sometimes use these same areas for generations until outside pressure pushes them to another location.

Mayfield estimated that only about 20% of most hunting land is suitable for turkeys, so knowing what 80% they won’t be on is a first step in narrowing your focus.

A topographical map or mapping software is a good start for whittling down areas to investigate. However, nothing can replace the need for every hunter to put in the time, effort, and sweat equity necessary to learn the habits and lessons these magnificent birds can teach those that pursue it.

SETTING UP

The location of your sleeping tom is vital to set up for their fly-down at sunrise the next day. “You need a thorough knowledge of the landscape on your hunting property. Also, knowing the direction your bird will likely fly down to is critical to where you need to set up,” Mayfield said.

He also said that he never walks directly towards a roost but instead angles 8-10 degrees in his approach. Another mistake he mentioned is setting up too close. He recommends a distance of 100-150 yards from the roost site, between where it will likely land and its strut zone.

HUNTING SEASONS

Several recent studies have revealed that the combined pressure from habitat degradation, predation, adverse weather, and increased hunting pressure have adversely affected the overall turkey numbers throughout the Southeast. As a result, in 2022, Alabama, Georgia, and Mississippi all saw slight changes to their traditional Spring hunting regulations, including start dates, decoy use, and bag limits.

Some studies have shown that up to 60% of gobblers are taken during the first two weeks of the Spring season before hens begin laying, which is a likely contributor to reduced poult production. So, if Alabama’s numbers don’t see an improvement in the near future, more changes may be needed.

CONCLUSION

Whether it’s your first or 100th time hearing the vocalization of a wild turkey, you will not soon forget it. However, mimicking the sound of another bird to coax it near enough to witness, what some have deemed- a “Redneck Peacock” is no easy feat.

This large, tail-fanning, wing-dragging bearded bird has fascinated and fed anyone willing to learn its language and habits. So, if you’re fortunate enough to share some real estate with a flock of these elusive creatures, cruise a few dirt roads with your window down this spring.

Park on a hilltop, honk the horn, slam your door, and listen real close. You might get the urge to put on your hiking boots before daylight to see if you have what it takes to stalk a trophy with feathers.

If you want to know more about these golden-brown creatures, keep an eye out for the release of a book Mayfield is writing. With a tentative title of “Breaking Day,” it’s sure to be a bestseller.

Fishfinder rig works great for pompano in calmer surf .

Picking The Best Pompano Rigs For The Conditions

BY DAVID THORNTON

“The best pompano rig” is whichever one will produce fish for you on a given day

Pompano are by far the most popular target species for set rig surf fishermen along the Emerald Coast throughout the year. And the so-called “Pompano Rig” (Double Dropper rig) is the most popular device used by these anglers to catch pompano. But having consistent success with these fish at any point in the year requires versatility and preparation. So, anglers need to adjust with changing conditions if they want to be more successful. Part of the allure of surf fishing is knowing which rigs will work depending on the situation faced. So, more so than using a single rig all the time, “the best pompano rig” is whichever one will produce fish for you on a given day

DECISIONS, DECISIONS…...

Nowadays pompano fishermen are blessed (or cursed ?) with a huge variety of options of pompano rigs to choose from. Not just the mass produced imported rigs in the big retail and online stores, but dozens of regionally available hand-tied versions of various colors in every bait and tackle shop along the coast. Such choices may seem daunting at times, even overwhelming for newcomers to the sport. But weeding out the obviously inferior rigs will at least make deciding easier. (See GDO mag Oct. 2021 “The Best Surf Fishing Rigs You Need To Know”).

Cost and value are basic factors involved in purchase decisions for most budget-minded surf fishermen. Often it plays out best to begin your day fishing with modestly priced (hand-tied) rigs that have a widespread appeal to pompano. Chartreuse is a favorite color for pompano and fishermen region wide. Keeping down the size of the floats and other unnecessary hardware assures it will appeal to more fish. In addition, intermediate sized hooks afford a better hookup ratio on fish of all sizes. Leader line should be clear and fairly light, yet strong enough to prevent cut-offs. 25# to 30# monofilament works well overall, and is much less expensive than fluorocarbon. Snaps and swivels should be relatively small and painted flat black (if possible) to help prevent cutoffs. The Fishbites® Approved Pompano Rig for $4 is a good example of a basic pompano rig for the price.

Since pompano possess excellent eyesight, in clear and calm water they may become exceedingly “leader shy”. That is when stealthier rigs built with lighter, smaller or fewer components are more likely to get bit by wary pompano. As waters become more roiled, or in low light conditions with less visibility, rigs with brightly colored beads or floats should get more attention (and bites) than the more basic versions. Certainly then, at least a modest assortment of rigs in different styles and colors would best aid the angler.

More “specialty” type rigs with painted floats, rattles, or larger hooks which may target larger pompano.

Once pompano fishermen gain experience, some choose to build their own rigs. Single drop rigs can be quickly made “on the fly” using a two foot section of leader, like 10# to 15# fluorocarbon. Simply tie a #4 kahle hook on one end, and a one to two ounce pyramid sinker on the other. Make a small loop around your finger about 1/3 of the distance from the weight. Then twist the end of the loop through itself twice, and slowly tighten the knot. Tie your mainline to the loop, bait the hook and you are ready to cast out.

The Fishfinder Rig (commonly called “Carolina Rig”) is another quick tie leader. Though often fished closer to shore in calmer water with lighter tackle and weight to better target whiting this versatile rig can catch most anything. The weight is usually a ¼ to one ounce egg sinker passed through the mainline above the leader swivel which acts as a sinker stop. The leader is 10# to 15# mono or fluorocarbon 6” to 15” long. This is tied to a #6 or #4 kahle hook. A fluorescent orange bead may or may not be added in front of the hook on either of these rigs to enhance the presentation by giving the bait profile a bit of a “bright spot” the fish can zero in on.

Choices of each component should be made with care and forethought. Even the choice of leader size and line type depends on factors such as time of year, water clarity, ambient lighting, surf, wind and currents that affect the presentation. Depending upon what bait is being used will determine the best hook style and size. And how far a cast is needed to reach the fish in what conditions determines the amount of weight needed and which style is best.

WEIGHING THE MATTER

Depending upon conditions of wind and surf, anglers need to make good choices about which style and size weight best fits the scenario they face. Distance to the target zone makes a huge difference in how much weight will be needed, thus what rod, reel and line to employ. Three ounce pyramid weights are a popular starting point, but carrying an assortment of size and styles will give you more versatility. Storm sinkers and “sputnik” style weights generally hold bottom better than pyramids in rough surf.

Lure range ratings printed on any rod give an impression of how much weight it should handle, and how it might perform. Most 7 to 10 foot spinning

rods in the medium or medium heavy classes will work just fine under a wide variety of conditions with weights of two ounces or less. Choosing which rod and reel to use depends very much on the ability of that rod to cast the weight where you want it to go.

LET’S BAIT UP

The option of what bait anglers put on their rigs is of fundamental importance. That choice helps determine which pompano rig is going to work best with the bait. Particular hook styles and sizes will perform better with certain baits. For instance the widely used combination of shrimp and Fishbites works well on medium sized circle hook (2/0) or (#4) kahle hook rigs. But using Fishbites by itself seems to pick up more bites using a smaller 1/0 circle or #6 kahle hooks.

The total length of the terminal bait profile (attractant + hook + bait) should not exceed what legal pompano can fit into their mouth (about 3 inches by ¾ inches). Since they lack teeth to bite their prey, all a pompano can do is suck in as much as they can, bite down and twist around to try and tear off a piece. If you consistently get bit but are missing fish, try a smaller bait profile or step down a hook size. Often those small adjustments make a huge difference in numbers of fish caught on a given day.

Tommy’s Pompano en Papillote

Pompano filets enrobed in a seafood sauce are baked in parchment-paper packets at Tommy’s Cuisine, a New Orleans restaurant specializing  in homestyle Italian Creole fare.

Ingredients

• 2 tbsp. dry sherry

• 8 shucked bluepoint oysters, juices reserved

• 10 oz. medium shrimp (about 20), peeled and deveined

• 1⁄4 lb. jumbo lump crabmeat

• 2 tbsp. finely chopped parsley

• 2 scallions, finely chopped

• 4 (6-oz.) pompano filets

• 1 tbsp. paprika

Instructions

1. Heat four teaspoons of butter in a two quart saucepan over medium-high heat. Whisk in flour; cook for two minutes. Add half & half and bring to a boil; reduce heat to medium and cook, until thick, about two to three minutes. Season with salt and pepper; set bechamel aside.

2. Heat remaining butter in a 12” skillet over mediumhigh heat. Cook mushrooms until browned, four to six minutes. Add sherry, oyster juices, salt, and pepper; cook until reduced by half, two to three minutes. Remove from heat; stir in oysters, shrimp, crab, parsley, scallions, and bechamel.

3. Heat oven to 500°. Cut out four 16” x 10” heartshaped pieces of parchment paper; fold hearts in half and crease. Working with one filet at a time, place on one side of the heart; season with salt and pepper. Put one quarter of the seafood mixture over filet; sprinkle with paprika. Fold paper over filet and fold up edges to seal; transfer to a baking sheet. Bake until the fish is cooked, 8-10 minutes.

Image and recipe courtesy of www.saveur.com

Fishbites Pompano Rig works on multiple surf species .

Rural land does not have to be cleared and heavily developed to generate income for landowners

How To Make Money With Land Passively

BY ED MASHBURN

Some folks have land, and most folks who own land think about ways these landholdings can generate income for them. Of course, land can always be cleared and developed in a myriad of different ways, but this development doesn’t come cheap. In fact, development of land is very expensive, and it always comes with a good deal of risk.

So, are there any ways that landowners can make income from their land without high risk, high costs and constant vigilance and administration?

It turns out that for rural landowners, there are some ways to generate income from land without having to spend a lot of money and without a lot of oversight.

Leasing land for hunting can provide a revenue stream for the landowner and this money-making activity doesn’t require development and it does generate passive income- if it is handled correctly. And of course, hunters also can benefit by leasing hunting property, which can result in more game, no other hunters, and no chasing around to find a good hunting spot.

AND HERE’S WHERE BASE CAMP LEASING COMES IN

Base Camp Leasing is based in Fishers, Indiana, but has property holdings they manage all over the eastern United States, and it has been in business since 1999. The main thrust of the company is to bring landowners, who own land that they would like to lease together with hunters who are looking for private land to lease. Base Camp is a conduit to bring the best of both worlds together for mutual benefit.

One of the first questions that landowners often want to be answered is just how much land is needed for a hunting lease property.

“We tend to say 40 acres or more. However, that doesn’t mean property under 40 acres doesn’t qualify for Base Camp Leasing though. Some of the characteristics that could make a property that is under 40 acres valuable is if it is mostly timber, is adjacent to a national park or large tracts of woods, close to the city (creating higher convenience to hunters who live in the city to travel to), located in in the Northeast (example New Jersey) etc. But in short, it is 40 acres or more,” says Connor Hermesch, Base Camp Leasing Marketing director.

WHAT SERVICES DOES BASE CAMP LEASING PROVIDE TO LANDOWNERS

According to Hermesch Base Camp Leasing provides a total package of

services to landowners considering a hunting lease arrangement. The process is fairly simple and easy.

a. The local professional leasing agent will contact the landowner who has requested to receive more information about how Base Camp Leasing’s services work.

b. The leasing agent will then take a look at your property online using aerial tools to view your property at a general level where they can give you a rough quote over the phone. (the quote is not exact but is usually very close to the final recommended price at the end of the process.)

c. If the landowner decides to proceed, a broker professional listing agreement will be sent to the landowner that outlines property and hunting lease details including the recommended fair market max lease price and the recommended maximum number of hunters set by the leasing agent. The landowner will also receive a FREE $5,000,000 liability insurance policy that protects both the landowner and the hunters on the lease agreement.

d. Then the leasing agent will visit the property to gather all the elements that are needed to market the property like: description, photographs, aerial views with property lines.

e. At that stage, Base Camp Leasing will market the lease on our website and weekly newsletters to our 70,000+ hunter membership base who are actively searching for leases.

f. When the landowners property leases to a Base Camp Leasing member, the hunter will pay in full upfront and then Base Camp Leasing will cut a check and mail it to the landowner within one week. “Once payment and lease agreements are finalized both parties will receive each other’s information to have the ability to reach out,” Hermesch added.

WHAT ABOUT LEGAL LIABILITY?

Rural landowners considering a hunting lease arrangement need to be very clear on the legal and liability aspects of such a lease arrangement.

“Base Camp Leasing provides a free $5,000,000 liability insurance policy that protects both the landowner and the hunters on the lease agreement,” Hermesch said.

“There are no obligations to the landowner. They still own the land and have the right to do what they please on it (besides, though, since they are leasing the exclusive hunting rights which rules that out). Hunters are allowed to hang tree stands, trail cameras etc. for hunting purposes

but cannot make major renovations that will affect the land, without the landowner’s consent (like food plots, cutting trees etc.) Also, for the landowner’s peace of mind, the hunters are still upheld to the government’s laws and requirements when hunting (set bag limits that every hunter follows),” Hermesch explained.

FAQ FOR THOSE INTERESTED IN LAND LEASING OPTIONS

What improvements does a landowner need to make for a hunting lease operation?

Landowners are not required to make any improvement to their land. However, we do recommend marking property lines to show hunters who are not familiar with the land where their limits are to not frustrate neighbors with accidental trespassing.

Can folks here in the Deep South do a hunting lease operation like the folks up in the Midwest?

Yes. Whether it’s in the Deep South or in the Midwest, hunters can enjoy hunting leases no matter if it’s a formal hunt club with by-laws and regulations set by the club, a group a friends just looking to share a lease for their hobby, or even for the hunter who just wants the lease for themselves.

wide range of land and holdings can serve very well as private leased hunting lands

If a property is leased, can the owner still hunt it or is that a restricted activity?

No they cannot hunt the property. When a landowner uses Base Camp Leasing’s services, they lease the exclusive annual hunting rights to the hunter. However, this is one of the factors that allows Base Camp Leasing landowners to earn max value when leasing.

How can a landowner who has interest in hunting lease operations get in touch with Base Camp Leasing for more information?

Landowners can visit basecampleasing.com to learn more about the leasing process and can fill out the landowner form located there to have their local leasing agent contact them about offering a free quote. (when used online please use this link: http://bit.ly/3jWIrUJ).

Or if they would like to speak with a representative right away over the phone, they can call (866) 937-5048. We are located in Fishers, Indiana and open Monday through Friday 8:00 A.M. – 5:00 P.M. EST

For both landowners who want to make a profit from their landholdings without major development casuists and concerns and hunters who want to have a place of their own to hunt without competition from crowds of other hunters, a private hunting lease property just might be the answer to everyone’s concerns.

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Changing out stock trebles for super sharp premium trebles like Hayabusa’s TBL 930 means fish stay stuck on crankbaits and other lures .

Bass Hooks The Ultimate Guide

BY FRANK SARGEANT

There’s many a slip between the hook and the lip of a largemouth bass, but the number of slip-ups that let bass escape can be cut dramatically by using quality hooks in the right size and style for your fishing tactics.

Fortunately, quality hook-makers like Hayabusa—a well-known Japanese brand now becoming a new standard in U.S. waters-- offer just about every conceivable design for bass anglers, and the company’s chemically-sharpened hooks have extra-slippery coatings that make point penetration even more certain.

There are a number of established hook designs that the long experience of thousands of anglers have proven most effective for various soft plastic and hard baits, and Hayabusa makes all of them. The designs must be sized to the bait and the tackle, of course, but here’s a look at what usually works best for most of the favorites on most Southern waters.

Offset Worm Hooks like the Hayabusa WRM114HD Round Bend are probably the most-used bass fishing hook in the nation because they’re used for Texas-rigging plastic worms and many creature baits. It’s designed with a dog-leg in the wire near the eye, and this double bend allows a rigged plastic worm to sit perfectly straight on the hook when the barb is inserted at just the right distance in the belly of slender bait.

You slide a worm on head first, bringing the point out about a quarter inch from the head, then up and over the dogleg until the eye of the hook is hidden in the worm. Bring the point up through the belly so the worm remains straight and just barely expose the hook point and you’re ready to catch bass in the thickest cover any lake has to offer. Sizes 1/0 to 6/0 allow fitting a variety of bait thicknesses perfectly.

The same style hook with a longer section from the eye to the dogleg and a bigger bend is also very effective for fishing soft frogs like Z-Man’s deadly GOAT ToadZ and other creature baits because this puts the hook where you can “Texpose” it, just barely burying the point in the plastic so that it will come through pads, mats and brush every time without snagging. Use the largest size hooks for the largest, fattest soft plastics. Some hooks are “big bend” or extra wide gap (EWG) designs better suited to thicker lures—again, match the hook size and style to the bait.

Dropshot Hooks, short shank, fine wire models like the Hayabusa DSR 132 are suitable for presenting small baits in finesse situations where a lure is often wacky-rigged with the point fully exposed. They’re

typically used in sizes 1, 2, 1/0 and 2/0 and are made of fine wire that’s carefully tempered for strength. Since the hook goes through an O-ring on the worm body, or through the head of a small worm, smaller hooks can stick any fish that bites.

Straight Shank Hooks like the Hayabusa FPP Straight are sometimes preferred for fishing the heaviest cover when flippin’, pitching or punching a plastic worm, on the theory that they go through weed mats and other thick stuff more easily than other designs. Used in heavy-duty flippin’ hooks with heavy braid, they may also be stronger since they have no extra bends in the shank. The FFP has a small keeper just below the eye to help keep baits in place. They’re typically used in 3/0 to 6/0 depending on bait size and often made of thicker, high-carbon steel since they may be fished on 65- to 80-pound test braid in the heaviest cover.

Sickle Hooks have an angular shape to the bend, rather than a round bend. Anglers who prefer these hooks say they help keep fish hooked due to the angle of the point relative to the shank, and those who fish live minnows and shad as bait say the sickle design helps keep lively baitfish on the hook, as well. Sizes used are typically 1 to 3/0 except for big baits like wild shiners, where the size may be up to 5/0.

Treble Hooks are used on the vast majority of hard plastic lures, but many of the stock hooks are substandard. Replacing them with high-grade, ultra-sharp hooks like Hayabusa TBL 930’s will mean more of the fish that hit get stuck securely. Experimenting with the size of trebles can also improve the action of some lures. For example, if you want a hard jerk bait to go deeper, you might increase the size of the front treble to force the nose down. If you want a topwater to sit noseup, you put a larger treble on the tail. Hayabusa’s fluorine coating also decreases rust on hooks put away wet. Sizes 2 through 8 work for most bass lures.

Wacky Rig Hooks like Hayabusa’s WRM 962 WG, which includes a weed guard, allows rigging small worms and other soft baits to come through brush and grass without sticking or picking up debris. Wacky rigs are typically used in relatively shallow water and are great just before and after the spawn. The company also makes a lighter version, the WRM 961 WG, for a slower sink rate, and additionally makes these hooks without the weed guard for open water fishing. Sizes 2 to 2/0, matched to the size of the bait or the sink rate preferred, do the job.

Trailer Hooks help assure that bass hitting fast-moving single hook

spinnerbaits and buzzbaits get stuck. Designs like the Hayabusa WRM929 are designed to keep the hook horizontal when fitted to the main hook of most spinnerbaits, with an oval eye to keep the hook trailing true. They come packed with rubber stoppers to slide on the main hook above and below the trailer to keep it straight, in sizes from 1 to 3/0. Fishing a spinnerbait or buzzbait without a trailer usually results in lots of missed strikes. (On the other hand, the trailer also makes the lure more likely to pick up weeds or get snagged—it’s a tradeoff.)

Weighted Screw Lock Hooks like the Hayabusa WRM958 are designed for thick-bodied lures like large swimbaits. The wire screw keeps the head in place while the wide bend of the hook lies straight in the body of most lures. The weighted “belly” of the hook keeps the lure upright. They’re available in 1/8 to ¼ ounce weights, and sizes 5/0 to 7/0. In general, the less weight you use on the hook, the more likely the action, but in deeper water you’ll need heavier weight to keep the lure in the strike zone.

Swimbait Hooks like the Hayabusa WRM 958 are wide gap designs with screw locks aimed to fit large bodied shad and fluke designs as well as frogs and critterbaits. Rigged right they let these lures run straight when swam steadily or fished as a jerkbait. Similar designs with a dog-leg rather than a screw lock like the Bulky Stage Muscle Gap Offset also do the job. Sizes 5/0 and 6/0 are most common due to the relatively large size of the swimbaits.

Octopus Hooks are a favorite of anglers who fish live shad for jumbo largemouths. These are relatively small hooks made of light wire, and they are easily carried by the baitfish until a bass catches up to them. Sizes 2 to 2/0 are most commonly used for bass-sized baits. Octopus hooks have the eye bent backwards, which allows snelling straight to the shank for anglers who prefer the smooth, strong connection of the

Design

Flippin’ for bass in heavy cover calls for a tough hook like the Hayabusa FPP Heavy Duty Straight design (St. Croix Rod)

snell. Unlike circle hooks, it’s necessary to set the hook with octopus designs when a fish picks up the bait. Whatever brand you buy, make sure they’re high-carbon steel because the (usually) thinner wire of these hooks can straighten under pressure otherwise.

Circle Hooks like Hayabusa’s CRL 187 are also live bait hooks. The advantage of a circle hook is that you can basically just tighten up on the line and the fish will stick themselves most of the time, with no hook set. You can actually catch fish with the rod left in the holder. The hook usually sinks into the corner of the fish’s mouth, rather than hooking them deep, important when fish are to be released. Sizes 1 to 4/0 are typical, matching the hook size to the bait size. A 3-inch threadfin shad will fish best on a size 1, while a 10-inch shiner will take a 4/0 or larger. The smaller the hook, the more lively the bait will be and the more strikes you’ll get, but if the hook is too small for a large bait, it’s unlikely to stick the bass.)

Bottom line is to choose a quality hook in the design and size best suited to the bait and the tactics you’re using and your odds of success will increase considerably on every bassin’ trip.

the money spent on turkey permits, which is part of the licens

son said. “Hunters’ purchases of hunting equipment also helps

Gearing up for a day of throwing jerkbaits might also mean changing out treble hooks--bigger hooks on the front mean a deeper running lure, and also can result in better hookups. (AFTCO)

Credit David Teel

A happy land manager with the results of a wellset trap . With proper use, traps can be a great way to quickly and effectively combat feral hogs .

Hog Trapping and Hunting 101

BY NICK WILLIAMS

Many historians credit Spanish explorers such as Alonzo Pineda and Hernando de Soto as the first Europeans to tread Alabama soil. While I can’t prove it, I have a suspicion that the bulk of Spaniards may have been just-so-slightly behind an unsung adventurer known to them as “El Cerdo.” I can only imagine that after months at sea sharing a cramped ship with El Cerdo the conquistadors were eager to be free of his legendary bad manners, uncouth grunts, and strange smells; and he was quite likely the first down the gangplank; unceremoniously kicked into a strange new world.

While most of the Spaniards faired rather poorly in the New World, victims of both the strange environment and increasingly put-out feeling natives, El Cerdo did well for himself. Instead of trying to convert the New World into an image of the Old World he had grown familiar with, he pragmatically adapted to his new neighbors and environment, and today his descendants have fully realized the “American Dream” of freedom and self-sufficiency. They pay no taxes, bow no heads, move across the country as they like, and enjoy the fat of the land without lifting a finger to toil.

I’m talking, of course, about the wild hog, the feral descendent of domesticated pigs introduced into the Americas by European settlers.

In their success wild hogs have turned into a bit of a problem child for farmers, hunters, and other wildlife managers. They reproduce quickly, reaching sexual maturity as soon as six months after their own birth and throwing four to six piglets a year if successfully bred. These piglets gestate in about 110 days. By way of comparison, whitetails average two fawns a year with a gestation period of over 200 days. Hogs grow bigger than most local animals, with the average adult topping out between 100-250 pounds and some growing much larger. They are also a lot smarter than deer, with their more cooperative domestic cousins breezing through cognitive tests usually reserved for dogs, which as a species have been selectively bred for intelligence for millennia.

They travel in large, tightly-knit groups called sounders that can consist of up to 30 members, and they are not at all bashful about throwing their size and numbers around to get what they want.

All of this means that they can do an incredible job outcompeting other species we find more desirable, and that they can quickly overload our increasingly fragmented and shrinking wild areas. Like many other animals that have been subjected to domestication, they also carry several diseases that have become contagious to humans, such as brucellosis, tuberculosis, trichinellosis, salmo -

nella, and swine influenza.

Property managers who wake up to find the ecological, financial, and recreational value of their land compromised by hogs can have a rough road ahead. Hogs that settle into an area with abundant food and cover can be hard to persuade to leave. However, if you’re just now noticing hogs in an area where you traditionally haven’t had them, a little hunting pressure can sometimes be enough to convince them to keep moving in search of greener pastures.

Many hunters will try to hunt hogs over bait, but if you’re looking to get rid of them, baiting can be counterproductive. It may seem strange if you’re a lifelong deer hunter, but hogs can be readily killed by stalking them back to their bedding. I have killed many hogs on public and private land in Alabama, Mississippi, Georgia, and Louisiana and I have killed most of them by quietly stalking the edges of thick cover with hog sign on the perimeter. A sounder of hogs will leave ample evidence of their presence in the form of tracks, scat, mud wallows, and mud smears on trees along the trails they use. If you backtrack this sign to their bedding (usually the thickest, wettest part of the property) with the wind in your face in the middle of the day, you stand a very good chance of catching them off guard.

My weapon of choice for this type of hunting is a short, light, semi-automatic rifle with a low magnification, wide field-of-view scope. AR platforms are common, but I have also killed pigs in excess of 200 pounds with a CZ-512 chambered in .22 Winchester Magnum Rimfire (WMR). With a maneuverable and low-recoiling rifle, it can be possible to shoot multiple pigs once you’ve caught them in their bedding. While hogs in open woods and agriculturral fields will flee once you open fire, hogs in their bedding areas are usually reluctant to leave. I have killed as many as five hogs in half an hour just by staying in one place after shooting the first one and picking them off as they milled around in the underbrush trying to reassemble the sounder. They see poorly, and at close range they have difficulty pinpointing where a shot came from. As long as you keep the wind in your favor, they are surprisingly easy animals to stalk.

While the idea of a new animal to hunt can be initially exciting, it can be difficult to “shoot your way out” of a hog problem due to their resilience. Many federal and state management agencies have instead promoted trapping as a more effective solution.

So how does that work? We turned to the USDA’s Benjamin Buckley, who works as a local district supervisor for the Animal & Plant

Health Inspection Service (APHIS), to learn more. Part of APHIS’s function is to assist landowners with the management of wild hogs and other invasive animals, and Benjamin has years of experience doing that.

According to Benjamin, the first step to conducting your own trapping operation is understanding the basic types of traps available and the pros and cons to each design.

Buckley describes three basic types of traps that are most used by the professional trappers he supervises.

“In areas that sustain high feral swine densities and subsequent damages, two categories of traps are primarily used: quick-set-up and drop traps,” Buckley pointed out. “The quick set up trap is often used to expedite removal operations and can be deployed in a variety of habitats. The drop trap (a trap suspended in air with very

little visual barrier) is often utilized when feral swine have been educated from previous trapping activities. Limiting factors of the drop trap include weight, transport, installation time, and habitats that limit use. In areas that contain low densities or infrequent feral swine use, permanent style traps are often used to minimize trap habituation time and increase removal efficiency.”

Buckley goes on to describe the operations of each trap in more detail.

“The quick set up trap primarily includes eighty foot sections of four to five feet tall, graduated wire panels that are supported by a steel frame. Each panel can be quickly affixed to adjacent panels or a relevant trap door by steel pins. One or two guillotine style trap doors (four to eight feetwide) are often used with the quick set up and permanent style traps,” he said.

An effective hog trap can be simply and cheaply made with t-posts and some cattle wire panels . Credit Dennis Parker.

Buckley pointed out that drop traps have similar panel specifications and include additional support frames that allow installation consistency and trap suspension. He also explained that drop traps are specified to a certain circular size/diameter and include four steel legs that are used to support the trap when suspended. When installed, the entire trap is typically 36”-48” off the ground and falls when triggered by feral swine or remotely.

“Permanent style traps typically utilize four to six 16 foot long and four to six foot high graduated wire panels with six foot high t-posts used to secure/support the panels. The number of t-posts utilized is often dependent on the habitat and size of the trap. A four to eight foot gap is typically left to accommodate a guillotine style door when needed.,” Buckley said.

“All styles of traps can be tripped by utilizing compatible wireless cameras that send either pictures or videos to a cellular device in real time. This allows the user to monitor and trigger the trap when warranted. Trip wires can be used on site when cell service is unreliable or when remote trap activation is cost prohibitive,” he added.

Once you’ve selected the trap that will work best for your situation, the next question is, “When is the best time to set it?” Buckley says that the answer is as soon as you notice hogs!

“Unlike some management practices, trapping feral swine can be conducted year-round with minimum disturbance to the recruitment and management of native wildlife species. To successfully reduce local feral swine populations and subsequent damages, trapping activities should be conducted when active sign or damage is encountered. Sometimes this will occur seasonally and is driven by food availability, drought conditions, etc. However, some areas harbor feral swine populations year-round which dictates the need for conducting year-round management activities,” he said.

If (like the author) you’re an avid hog hunter, Buckley’s advice on where to set the trap will come as no surprise.

“Habitat availability, travel corridors, food constraints, and security cover all can play a part in trap placement. Typically, areas that offer a thick understory provide refuge and security for feral swine and would be considered a good candidate for trap placement and concealment. Travel corridors from bedding areas to a preferred food source should also be considered. Trap placement in open areas should be discouraged,” he said.

Buckley’s bait recommendations are also surprisingly simple.

“Corn is commonly used and readily accessible at most locations. There are commercial additives available that will sometimes help entice the feral swine and can be purchased from co-ops or other outdoor stores. Another baiting method to deter non-targets is to ferment corn or other grains with water. Fermentation creates a sour, pungent odor which assists with attracting feral swine over longer distances,” Buckley concluded.

As a final note,Buckley reminds would-be trappers that under Alabama law, hog traps must be checked once every 24 hours. He advises checking them in the cool of the morning in order to prevent heat distress and the resulting increased escape attempts. After all the investment of time and money into building, baiting, and checking traps, you definitely don’t want them back out on your property!

Flounder Gigging Explained

BY ED MASHBURN

Most flounder are a lot harder to see than this one- but they are there, so keep looking

Giggers today have some wonderful tools to work with, but flounder gigging still comes down to going out after dark and getting into position for a secure thrust into an alert flounder. We may have more and better tools for gigging today, but we still face the same challenges as the old-timers did.

Of course, the reason we go out at night on the dark water is to obtain some of the best-eating seafood to be found on the Gulf Coast (or in the whole world). Captain Yano Serra of Coden, Alabama, has spent many nights on and in the waters of western Mobile Bay and the surrounding bayous looking for flounder. Captain Jody Waldorff has also spent a lifetime chasing flatfish, and these two experienced experts can offers some helpful advice when it comes to gigging flounder.

WADE-GIGGING—ABOUT AS BASIC AS FISHING GETS

Gigging flounder from a boat and gigging while wading have lots of similarities. Actually, they are the same basic operation. Perhaps the biggest difference is that boat giggers can work all kinds of bottom while waders need to try to stick to firmer, non-muddy bottom. Of course, waders need to keep an eye out for stingrays as they work silently along.

However, for night-in night-out results, more flounder have been taken by wading giggers than by almost any other form of fishing. Wading puts us in close contact with the hard-to-see flounder of Mobile Bay.

“If I’m wade-gigging, I want a dark night. Moonlight will create shadows from the gigger which will spook flounder.” Waldorff adds, “ In clear water, flounder will stay put more than in muddy water. They don’t move as much in clear water,”Waldroff said.

LIGHTS FOR WADERS

Many wade giggers still use propane or other gas-powered lanterns, but some really effective underwater single-bulb lights have been developed that operate on small battery packs carried by the gigger. These long-handled lights allow giggers to put the beam of light right on a suspected flounder for a quick stick.

It seems that the color of the flounder light is very important. Waldorff runs a 2200 Kelvin amber colored light.

“This color light cuts through the water particles better than clear or white light. White light reflects off the water, but amber doesn’t,” he noted.

A hand-held light allows giggers to safely and securely wade through shallow waters where most flounder spend their time looking for minnows, shrimp, and other food.

GIGS- MORE THAN ONE KIND

Yano says that when he wade-gigs, instead of a multi-

prong gig such as he uses on a boat, he prefers a single-prong gig. This makes removal of a stuck flounder much easier.

“I use a single point gig when I’m wading, and when I stick a flounder, I don’t remove him from the water. I put him on the stringer before I remove him from the gig. Then I let the stringer trail behind me,” Serra advised.

OTHER ADVANTAGES OF WADE-GIGGING

Wading allows giggers to silently work very shallow water that no boat could reach. This puts a lot of flounder within reach of a wader that a boat gigger just can’t access.

Another really big benefit of wade-gigging is that it allows giggers to find that wonderful seafood delicacy—soft-shell crabs—as they look for flounder.

“I always have a little scoop net with me when I go wade-gigging. When I see a crab, I scoop him up. If he’s a hard-shell, he goes back. If it’s a soft-shell, it goes in a sack I have with me. We used to pick up lots of soft-shell crabs in a single night’s gigging. This is easier to do when wading than from a boat,” Serra added.”

Of course, there’s no reason that a gigger can’t do both kinds of gigging in a single trip. It’s very likely that flounder on many nights will be in water too shallow even for a flounder boat’s shallow draft, so it’s a simple matter to anchor the boat in navigable water and then wade around islands and other structure that often hold nighttime flounder for gigging.

BOAT GIGGING—BOAT RIGGING AND GEAR

Flounder gigging boats need to be as shallow draft as possible because gigging is a shallow-water game.

“For years, I used a 14-foot aluminum flat-bottomed boat,” Serra said. “It worked, but two people couldn’t gig from the front of the small boat. An 18-foot boat is better. You need a boat with length and width to support the people. You can pole the boat or use a trolling motor as you move down the shoreline. Now, I have a total gigging setup with a larger mud-boat with ten LED lights mounted on a handrail. Each light produces 950 lumens of lights, and it all runs off a battery. You can also use a generator to power a gigging boat’s lights,”

GOOD TIDES/BAD TIDES—BE PREPARED TO MOVE

“They’ll be facing upstream when they’re lying in a cut or in moving current. On a blank tide, the flounder will move more. They’ll be easing up shallow on a tide that is coming in,” Waldorff advised.

When asked what sort of tide he prefers for gigging, Serra says a neap tide is best.

“There’s no tide movement to scatter the bait, but really the tide is not as important as it is when fishing for flounder with a rod and reel. All you have to do when gigging is see the fish. The water needs to be clear,” he explained.

“The bottom here on Mobile Bay is mud—a south wind will muddy the water. You’ve got to know the little places where there will be clearer water. In Florida, you’ve got sand bottom and you can gig in four feet of water. Here, thanks to runoff from farmland into creeks upstream, two

A big properly rigged boat for gigging is a superb flounder gigging tool .

feet is the maximum you can see in the bay,” Serra added.

HOW TO SPOT THE FLATFISH AND STICK IT

Before we can stick ‘em, we have to see ‘em. This sounds easy but the whole structure and appearance of a flounder is designed to make it very hard to see. Flounder have first-rate camouflage, and when lying motionless on the bottom it’s a challenge to pick one out from the surrounding bottom.

“Ease down the bank. Look for something that’s not supposed to be there. Look for something out of the ordinary. You may see eyes, a vague outline of the fish, a mouth. Look for something that looks out of place. Nine times out of ten, it’s a flounder.” Yano advised.

When a flounder is spotted and then stuck with the gig, it might seem that the hard part is over. It’s not that simple. Many flounder have been lost to giggers because they slipped off the gig when the gig was lifted from the water.

“Stick him, then turn his head toward the stern, slide him across the bottom, and then slide him into the boat. Keep him moving on the gig. Don’t stop the gig until the flounder is in the boat. Flounder will jump when the gig is removed. I have a wooden wedge attached to an ice chest so I can just pull the gig out and the flounder will fall into the ice chest. Don’t just leave the flounder on the deck. They’ll be muddy and bloody and slick, and if someone steps on the flounder, you could kill yourself in a fall,” Serra said.

HOW TO MAKE THE STICK WORK—WHERE TO AIM

When it comes to the moment of truth, there is a definite technique to maximize the chances of a successful thrust.

“Try to stick him them right behind the gill plate,” Yano advised. “Try to get a head shot. That way you don’t mess up the meat. I was trained to hit them in the head, and that’s how I do it.”

BEST ADVICE FOR BEGINNING GIGGERS

Yano has taken flounder from the waters around Mobile Bay for many years, and he’s learned a lot about the sticking game. He offers some good advice for those of us who are just getting started in the gigging game.

*Be quiet. This is very important. Don’t stomp and don’t drop things in the boat.

*Full moon conditions are not the best for gigging. On a full moon, the flounder can see you coming before you see them. They spook.

*Wind. You don’t want wind in your face. Try to go with the wind. This is quiet and the wind pushes you over the bottom.

Follow the tides and be aware of what they are doing. A falling tide can leave you stuck up a bayou. It’s easy to get excited sticking a bunch of flounder and lose track of the tide. A falling tide can get away from you and leave you high and dry.

*If running a generator in an aluminum boat, make sure you’ve got a good in-line fuse. A short from a generator will run through the boat and you can’t get away from the shock.

*Make sure you’ve got an ice chest ready for stuck flounder and get them in the chest and off the deck.

*Have plenty of bug dope. Bright lights attract insects, and the mosqui -

toes can be fierce during a gigging trip.

Everyone loves to go flounder gigging- cooler, quieter, and such good food

“You have to be either standing on your feet if wading or standing up on the deck of a boat. It’s like sight-fishing for reds- it’s easier to see flounder from above. The more up and down the gigger is, the less light refraction and the easier to see where the flounder is,” Waldroff added.

REGULATIONS FOR FLOUNDER GIGGING IN ALABAMA

Alabama allows five fish per person with a 14-inch size minimum. In addition, the season is closed from November 1-30th. This means that giggers need to be absolutely certain that a flounder is legal before gigging it. A gigged flounder is generally a dead flounder, so giggers need to be sure a fish is legal before sticking it. It’s better to allow a marginal fish to swim away rather than kill a sub-legal flounder. An Alabama saltwater fishing license is also required.

ATV and UTV Sprayer Points To Consider

BY JOSH HONEYCUTT

20 things to consider when buying an ATV or UTV sprayer

Food plotting and land management have become very popular in recent years. This increase in management efforts has created a need for advantageous implements.Still not everyone uses, needs, or can afford larger tractor implements. and maybe ATV and UTV options are better suited for them. This also applies to spraying equipment. As such, here are ATV and UTV sprayer points to think about.

1. Sprayer Types

There are different types of sprayers. Which one is chosen depends on the ATV or UTV being used, what’s being sprayed and how much spraying will be done. There are boom, boomless and tow-behind sprayers for ATVs and UTVs. Furthermore, there are backpack, spot, hitch, bed mounted and other sprayer types.

2. Boom vs. Boomless

Boom and boomless sprayers have many pros and cons. Boom sprayers aren’t nearly as affected by wind. Boomless sprayers are impacted more by wind drift. Boom sprayers are also much better for precision spraying, as well as maneuvering around objects that shouldn’t be sprayed.

3. Cleaning Abilities

Gauge how easy-to-clean a sprayer in question will be. Some are much simpler to clean out than others. In fact, some models have built-in systems that aid in this effort, while others do not.

4. Coverage Capabilities

Sprayers offer a wide range of coverage capabilities. Find one that matches the scale of which is necessary to spray your food plots in a timely manner.

5. Fluid Rates

Fluid rates also vary from sprayer to sprayer. This is another important metric to gauge as food plotters select the right rig.

6. Horizontal Distance

The horizontal distance is a variable that impacts spray coverage. Some sprayers offer shorter distances, and others deliver greater ones.

7. Hose Lengths

Most sprayers also include a hand nozzle with hose for spot spraying. This additional spray option is limited to the length of the hose it’s hooked up to.

8. Intended Use

Some will be spot spraying with sprayers. Others will be managing a small plot or two. Still, some will be conducting more extensive efforts. Choose the sprayer that best fits the tasks ahead.

9. Maneuverability

Some sprayers are more maneuverable than others. (Think boom vs. boomless, size differences, and more.) Furthermore, some plots require more maneuverability, such as those with fruit trees, scrape trees, plot screens, and other things that don’t need spraying.

10. Nozzle Quantities

The number of nozzles commonly varies on sprayers. Choose one that will best fit the goals ahead for your food plots.

11. Pain Points

Most products have downsides, or things that sometimes go wrong. With sprayers, it usually has to do with clogging and lines getting dirty. Those with cleaning systems tend to create fewer problems for users.

12. Portability

How easy a sprayer is to get from storage to the field is important. Some are clunky and cumbersome to move and/or transport.

13. Power

Most sprayers offer a certain amount of power. Obviously, more expensive offerings tend to have higher GPM output. That said, for those planning to spray smaller plots, and move slower, this isn’t as important.

14. Pressure PSI

Likewise, PSI output is another important factor that impacts coverage, GPM ratings, and spray distances. Choose one that falls with a reasonable range.

15. Price Point

Money matters and choosing the best sprayer within the budget is an important part of the process. General sprayers can range from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars, but most ATV and UTV sprayers aren’t near the top end of that range.

16. Pump Type

The type of pump on a sprayer will impact power, PSI, coverage, cleanliness, and more. Gauge how much you’ll need and choose the right one accordingly.

17. Storage Abilities

How quickly and how well a pump goes into storage falls somewhere along a wide spectrum. Different ones are more easily stored.

18. Tank Volume

Greater tank volumes allow food plotters to spray longer and more ground without refilling it. This helps save time and makes them more efficient.

19. Vertical Distance

Similar to the horizontal distance, the vertical distance is another metric used to express a sprayer’s capabilities.

20. Warranty

Each company offers a slightly different warranty. Gauge this factor as you wind down the search and make a final selection.

BONUS: 5 ATV AND UTV SPRAYERS TO CONSIDER

WorkHorse Sprayers 15 gal 2-Nozzle Boomless Trailer Sprayer

WorkHorse Sprayer 15-Gallon 2-Nozzle Boomless Trailer Sprayer

The WorkHorse Sprayer 15-Gallon 2-Nozzle Boomless Trailer Sprayer (https:// www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/workhorse-sprayers-boomless-trailer-sprayer-15-gal-lg15ets#) is a tow-behind option for those who don’t want an ATV- or UTV-mounted option. This polyethylene tank is 15 gallons in capacity. It also offers 100 inches of spray coverage, 15-ft. PVC reinforced trailer sprayer hose, heavy-duty frame, durable manifold, 25-ft. horizontal spray, 12-ft. vertical spray, 8-ft. wiring harness, 1.0 GPM 12V pump, delivers 0-60 PSI of pressure, and more. It’s made in the U.S.A. and comes with a one-year warranty. MSRP is $299.99.

WorkHorse Sprayers 25-Gallon

ATV Sprayer with 3-Nozzle Boom

The WorkHorse Sprayers 25-Gallon ATV Sprayer with 3-Nozzle Boom (https:// www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/workhorse-sprayers-25-gal-atv-sprayer3-nozzle-boom-atv2503#) offers quality and reliability. It is equipped with a heavy-duty manifold, 25-gallon tank, 140 inches of spraying coverage, quick-attach boom system, 2.2 GPM demand pump, 0-60 of PSI pressure, exclusive flood tips with extended range, 35-ft. horizontal spray, 25-ft. vertical spray, 15-ft. PVC reinforced spray hose, 8-ft. wiring harness, and more. It’s made in the U.S.A. MSRP is $329.99.

WorkHorse Sprayers 60 gal 7-Nozzle Utility Boom Sprayer

Fimco 65-Gallon Lawn and Garden UTV Sprayer with 7-Nozzle Boom

The Fimco 65-Gallon Lawn and Garden UTV Sprayer with 7-Nozzle Boom (https://www.ruralking.com/65-gal-utv-spryr-w-7-nozzle-boom) is loaded with features. It incorporates a 65-gallon tank, 4.5 GPM 12-volt pump, 12-ft total spray coverage, 25-ft. hose length, 3/8-inch hose diameter, 40-ft. horizontal spray, 28ft. vertical spray, 5-inch multi-lid, and more. MSRP is $849.99.

WorkHorse 60-Gallon 7-Nozzle Utility Boom Sprayer

WorkHorse Sprayers 25 gal ATV Sprayer with 3-Nozzle Boom

Fimco UTV Boomless Sprayer

The WorkHorse 60-Gallon 7-Nozzle Utility Boom Sprayer (https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/workhorse-sprayers-utility-sprayer-60-gal-utl657#) is another excellent option. It comes with 140 inches of spray coverage, 2.2 GPM, 60 PSI pressure, 25-ft. hose length, 3/8-inch hose diameter, 35-ft. horizontal spray, 25-ft. vertical spray, etc. It has a one-year warranty, is made in the U.S.A., and has an MSRP of $799.99.

Fimco 65 Gallon Lawn & Garden UTV Sprayer With 7-Nozzle Boom

Fimco UTV Boomless Sprayer

Those looking for a boomless sprayer for their UTV might consider the Fimco route (https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/fimco-utv-boomless-sprayer). This one has a 4.5 GPM pump, 45 PSI pressure, 25-ft. hose length, 30-ft. of spray coverage, 35-ft. horizontal throw, 26-ft. vertical throw, glycerin-filled pressure gauge, and more. MSRP is $899.99.

Choosing the Right Mix of Fish for Pond Stocking

BY WILLIAM KENDY

It is simply a fact of fishing pond life. In terms of different kinds of fish, for most ponds in the southeast, bass are the top gun. Of course, there will be bluegill and possibly even crappie but bass, whether a largemouth or a hybrid, rule the roost. A big part of the reason for that is they thrive in warmer water and can grow to trophy size.

Still, it isn’t a matter of just dumping a bunch of bass into a pond and expecting to have a top-notch fishery before long. There is much more to the narrative.

One of the first considerations is what type of pond do you have? Is it an existing pond or is it a just constructed brand new pond that has no resident fish population? While this sounds like it is unrelated to the right fish mixture, the reality is that you need to know what you have before you stock what you want.

Kind of sounds confusing but not if you think about it.

EXISTING PONDS – OLD OR NEW

Norman Latona is president of Southeastern Pond Management, which offers services that cover the waterfront of pond development and management. SE Pond provides ecosystem analysis, management programs, pond construction, liming, fertilizing, fish inventory assessment, removal processes, stocking of forage and game fish, maintenance and more throughout the southeast.

THE POND HAS TO BE FREE OF FISH

According to Latona, whether the pond is going to be managed for trophy largemouth bass, big “slab” bluegill or to be a balanced fishing lake with no emphasis on growing exceptionally large fish, it absolutely has to be fish free.

“When you are restocking or stocking fish for the first time it is critical that the water we are stocking is free of fish,” Latona said. “We need to prepare it properly and make sure that there is nothing that will compete with what we are going to introduce and interfere with that dynamic.”

To that end for existing ponds, SEPond will come in and use a fish toxicant that will eradicate the existing fish population and, in a short period of time, the toxicant will dissipate and leave a pond that is ready to stock. This killing of fish is necessary because the last thing a pond owner wants is to introduce fingerling fish stock that will be easy

prey for undesirable species.

“There is nothing worse than to stock a lake or pond full of genetically improved high quality fingerling fish, whatever the species is, to have them undermined by what is already there, particularly adult predators who are just gobbling them up,” Latona said.

IT IS ABOUT STARTING WITH A CLEAN SLATE

The next question in the stocking process is to define what are your expectations and vision for the pond in terms of fishing and in general?

As a pond owner, what are your goals? Is it just to produce catchable largemouth bass and lots of them but not necessarily big ones? Is your goal to clear a sparkling pond for the kids or grandkids to swim in and catch some decent size or larger bream and respectable bass? The stocking program for each one varies and SEPond can tweak each situation and approach to meet the objectives.

While the management plan for each pond is different, an important constant in stocking from scratch is that the forage fish always go in first and need time to establish themselves and start reproducing.

“The more secure and abundant the food source, the faster the bass are going to grow. When I say forage fish, I’m talking about everything from bluegill to shellcrackers, fathead minnows, golden shiners and even threadfin shad. Typically, the bluegill that we stock are in the one-to-two-inch size range,” Latona said. “The ideal forage stocking timeline is from early fall all the way to late winter.”

“We just let those fish kind of stew in there and grow, spawn and expand and by the time we start stocking bass in late May or early June, the bluegill and forage fish that we stocked some months ago are of a size and ready to spawn,”

Latona emphasized that it is critical that bluegill and other forage species go through at least one spawning cycle before the predator fish are introduced. That way there are lots of newly “hatched” fry hanging around for the smaller bass to gobble up.

“When bluegill reach three to five inches in length, they are sexually mature. They are also too large at this point for the newly introduced bass fingerlings to consume. Newly stocked bass, typically two to three inches in length, depend on reproduction of bluegill and other

Whether starting with a brand new pond or revitalizing an existing body of water, there is a right way to stock a pond from scratch .

forage species present. Other forage fish, such as fathead minnows, for example, frequently spawn in February and early March. Having an abundance of suitable size food for the largemouth bass fingerlings is obviously critical to their survival,” Latona pointed out.

The bottom line is that for bass to grow they need to eat a lot and they like to eat. Research shows that a bass needs to consume 8-10 pounds of food in order to gain one pound of weight and they can eat themselves out of house and home if there isn’t a good balance between the predators (bass) and the forage fish population. Therein lies the reason to make sure that the forage fish base is vibrant enough to feed these predators and make sure that the number of bass are in sync with the forage base.

“When you can create these conditions, that is when you see bass that are two to three inches long when stocked and by the end of the summer, they are eight to ten inches long and look like little footballs,” Latona added.

RATIOS OF FORAGE FISH TO PREDATORS AND WHAT TO STOCK

If you are stocking bass and want a healthy predator to prey ratio, think “10 to 1” per acre. In other words for every predator (bass) per acre you should have approximately 10 forage fish but that really depends on the goals of the pond owner.

According to Latona, SE Pond frequently manipulates this ratio to tailor a program to the specific goals of the lake owner.

“If the goal is to produce trophy bass, the ratio of forage to predator may be increased; likewise, the predator to prey ratio may be shifted the other way, in cases where “quality” and “trophy” bass production is not a stated objective,” Latona said. “The important point is, pond management has evolved to the point where we better understand predator/prey dynamics and the role that initial stocking ratios play.”

WHAT FORAGE FISH TO STOCK

As I mentioned, Latona’s “Go To” forage fish for ponds are the venerable bluegill, threadfin and gizzard shad primarily because they spawn multiple times and can grow to become a good bass mouthful. That active reproduction and quick growth rate makes them an “enduring” forage fish that can produce a sustainable population and not have to be re-introduced every year. He adds golden shiners, fathead minnows, shellcrackers, even Tilapia and rainbow trout, depending on the goals of the pond owner and stocking restrictions.

“We stock tilapia, where they are allowed, in April and May and they will spawn multiple times all the way up to the fall but they can’t tolerate it when the water gets down to 40 or 50 degrees,” Latona said. “It is the opposite for rainbow trout which we stock in the fall because they can’t live in the summer water temperature but they do great in the winter and are fun to catch and eat and are good short-term forage for trophy bass.”

While tilapia and rainbow trout are not sustainable fish in most of the south they do provide some forage fish for the bass.

The bottom line in all of this is that if you have an emphasis on having a healthy bass and bream pond population that is in balance you need to make sure that they have enough to eat to grow to whatever size you want and that the pond environment is conducive with adequate structure to allow the forage fish base to thrive. That means maintaining a balance between predator and prey.

It is basically a big circle.

BY NICHOLAS HEIDERMANN Recipe and image courtesy of www.winemag.com

Grilled Largemouth Bass with Pecan-Herb Crust

Ingredients

• 4 tablespoons champagne vinegar or white wine

• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

• 2 teaspoons prepared horseradish

• 1 tablespoon mayonnaise

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 4 largemouth bass filets, about 6 ounces each (may substitute branzino)

• ½ cup finely chopped pecans

• 2 cloves garlic, minced

• 2 tablespoons fresh minced tarragon

• 2 tablespoons minced Italian parsley

• 1 tablespoon minced Meyer lemon zest (or ½ tablespoon each of orange and lemon zest)

Instructions

1. Combine vinegar, mustard, horseradish, mayonnaise and olive oil in a large bowl. Add fish. Coat well, and let marinate for 1 hour. Meanwhile, combine pecans, garlic, herbs and zest in a large, shallow baking dish. Shake excess marinade from fish. Dredge filets in pecan mixture, packing the nuts onto the fish to coat evenly.

2. Heat grill to 500˚F. Add a piece of oak or smoke chips. Once wood is smoking, place an oiled wire rack with fine mesh (or oiled cast-iron skillet or griddle) on the grill. Add fish in a single layer. Close the grill lid and cook for about three minutes.

3. Turn the grill off and let finish for seven minutes, or until the fish tightens and opens up a little (if using charcoal, move to the coolest part of the grill). Using thin-slotted spatula, carefully remove filets. Garnish with lemon wedges and herb sprigs.

Land Loan Interest Rate Update

BY GREAT DAYS OUTDOORS

First South Farm Credit (FSFC) has been financing rural land since 1916. Since it was founded over 100 years ago, FSFC now has grown to over 40 branches with 9,000 members and serves the “Deep South” in Alabama, Louisiana and Mississippi.

As an affiliate of the national Farm Credit System, a network of borrower-owned lending institutions, First South Farm Credit specializes in providing credit for farming operations that include crops, livestock, land, and timber. FSFC is also chartered to help with financing lifestyle farms, rural home sites or rural land tracts for enjoyment or investment purposes.

As a rural lender, First South Farm Credit basically lends money to people for pretty much anything that they want to do “in the dirt”. That could be row cropping, growing timber, raising livestock or farming for wildlife. It doesn’t stop there.

FSFC can assist a property holder in enhancing the value of the land. That includes things such as improving timber stands, clear-cutting, clearing roads, planting green fields, building ponds and planting trees and shrubs to improve green areas and cover for deer and turkey. It even encompasses lending money for controlled burns and planting of grasses and grain crops for things such as quail development and assisting in constructing access roads.

“First South Farm Credit can make construction loans and, if needed, can turn those loans into long-term loans. Some landowners are building secondary homes, hunting cabins or lodges, and others want to put their primary residences on 20 to 30 acres” says Taylor Hart, the branch manager of First South Farm Credit in Opelika, AL. “Perhaps that person wants to sit on his or her back porch and look at a pond and we make loans for pond construction as well.”

“First South can make loans for anything a landowner wants to do to

develop his property or its habitat or the amount of wildlife there. If you’re playing in the dirt, we want to be in there with you, as long as you’re improving the value of the dirt, which is the collateral of the loan,” Hart said.

But wait, it gets better.

In addition to its extensive experience in agricultural and land financing, one thing that sets First South Farm Credit apart from other lenders is that they are a cooperative.

When you borrow money from FSFC, you become a member and that means you own part of the business. That ownership entitles you to share in the profits through their Patronage Refund Payment Program.

In other words, First South Farm Credit gives its customers, who are actually owners, money back. While it can’t guarantee payments back to you or the exact rate of return, as long as it remains profitable and well capitalized, FSFC is committed to sharing its profits and has made patronage payments for the past 26 consecutive years.

As of 3/10/23 rates are hovering in the 8% range depending on the financial position of the borrower and terms. Call the First South office in your area for a rate quote.

In addition to financing land, FSFC can finance your land improvements, new and used tractors, and other equipment that is used to maintain and enhance your rural property .

First South Farm Credit has sixteen (16) locations in Alabama. You can call 1-800-955-1722 or visit their website at FirstSouthLand .com to find the location nearest you – and to start the conversation about financing your land.

Fish Stir Fry

Prep: 20 mins • Cook: 20 mins

• Total Time: 40 mins

Ingredients

MARINADE

• 1-pound skinless, boneless fish, cut into chunks

• 4 tablespoons potato, corn or tapioca starch

• 2 egg yolks

• 1 tablespoon soy sauce

• Oil for frying

STIR FRY

• 2 tablespoons minced ginger

• 2 tablespoons minced garlic

• 4 green onions, sliced thin

• 2 to 6 small hot, chiles, sliced (optional)

• 2 tablespoons chili bean paste (pixian or doubanjiang)

• 1/2 teaspoon potato, corn or tapioca starch

• 1/4 cup fish stock, seafood stock or water

• 2 tablespoons black vinegar, or malt vinegar

• 2 teaspoons soy sauce

• 1 teaspoon freshly ground Sichuan peppercorns (optional)

Instructions

1. Mix all the marinade ingredients (except for the oil) together in a bowl. Really make sure each piece of fish is coated. Let this sit while you heat the oil up in a wok or pot. You want it at a full 350°F.

2. Fry the pieces of fish in batches, using a chopstick or butter knife to separate them as they fry. Fry until golden brown, then drain on a cooling rack set over a baking sheet. Let the oil cool a bit, then pour off all but about 2 or 3 tablespoons.

3. If you’re not using a wok, move the oil to a big frying pan. Get the oil screaming hot over high heat on your biggest burner. The second it starts to smoke, add the ginger, garlic, green onions and chiles and stir fry for about 30 seconds.

4. Mix the starch with the stock so you have a slurry.

5. Return the fish to the wok and add the bean paste, stock-and-starch mixture and stir fry for 1 minute, or until the sauce looks glossy. Add the vinegar, soy sauce and Sichuan peppercorns and toss to combine. Serve at once.

Venison Potstickers, Chinese Dumplings

Prep: 45 mins • Cook: 20 mins • Total Time: 1 hr 5 mins

Ingredients

SAUCE

• 1/4 cup soy sauce

• 3 tablespoons rice vinegar or Chinese black vinegar

• 1 hot chili, minced

• 3 garlic cloves, minced

• 1 tablespoon minced ginger

• 1 teaspoon sugar

• 2 tablespoons sesame oil

FILLING

• 3/4-pound ground venison, duck or other meat

• 3/4 cup Chinese chives, green onions or other wild chivelike green onion

• 2 tablespoons minced ginger

• 2 tablespoons minced garlic

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 1/4 cup chicken stock or water

• 2 tablespoons soy sauce

• 1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine or dry sherry

• 2 teaspoons sesame oil

WRAPPERS

• Either 30-36 store-bought potsticker wrappers or:

• 2 cups all-purpose flour, about 10 ounces

• 3/4 cup hot water

Instructions

1. Mix all the ingredients for the sauce together and let sit at room temperature while you make everything else.

2. In a large bowl, mix all the ingredients for the filling together until well combined. It is better to let the mixture sit for 30 minutes to overnight, but you can use it right away.

3. Fill each wrapper with a scant tablespoon of filling. Close each one into a half-moon, making sure there are no air pockets. It is probable that some of the filling will squirt out the ends as you seal them -- this is normal, just drop it back into the bowl with the rest of the filling. If the wrappers are dry, get a little bowl of cool water and wet half of each wrapper circle with the water; this will help it seal tightly.

4. Pleat the edges: I usually start from the center and do 3 pleats on the left of the dumpling, then another 3 on the right of the dumpling. As you make the pleats, settle the dumpling

on your work surface so it sits flat. You will need this flat surface to get a nice crispy bottom to your potsticker. Set each finished dumpling on a baking sheet lined with either parchment or a little semolina flour or corn meal.

5. To cook your potstickers, get a large, non-stick frying pan out and heat about 2 to 3 tablespoons of vegetable oil (I use peanut) over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, about a minute or two, lay the potstickers down in one layer; they can touch each other. Fry like this for 1 to 2 minutes, until the bottoms are browned.

6. Add enough water to come up about 1/4 inch. The pan will sputter and spit, so have a lid ready. Turn the heat down to medium, cover the pan and cook for 6 minutes. After 6 minutes, move the lid part way off the pan to let steam escape. Cook for 2 more minutes, then remove the lid entirely. You will soon hear the cooking change from boiling to sizzling -- that’s your cue they are done. Serve immediately.

TO MAKE WRAPPERS

1. Put the flour in a large bowl and make a well in the center. Boil some water, turn off the heat and pour in a healthy 3/4 cup of the water into the well you’ve made in the flour (when I mean “healthy” I mean to err on more water, not less). Stir the mixture with a fork until it gets shaggy, then knead with your hands (the dough will not be too hot to handle) for a few minutes, until it is smooth and elastic. Put the dough in a plastic bag and let sit on the counter for at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours.

2. Roll the dough into a thick snake and cut it in half, then in half again. Put the three pieces you are not using back in the plastic bag.

3. Roll the snake you are working with until it is about 1-inch thick. Cut it into 8 disks. Use your hands to return each disk to a nice cylinder. If the dough is tacky, dredge it lightly in a little flour.

4. Open your tortilla press. Put the cylinder between two pieces of plastic or wax paper (I use sheets cut from a freezer bag) and squash it with the tortilla press. Move the circle of dough to your work surface and do the other 8 pieces of dough.

5. Now use your little dowel to roll out the outer edges of each circle. You want to keep an area about the size of a nickel at the center thick, so hold the wrapper here while you flatten the edges out with the dowel. Do this while constantly rotating the wrapper. It does not matter if the wrapper is perfectly circular; just try your best.

6. Once you have your 8 wrappers, fill them and pleat as above. Continue with another 8 wrappers at a time until you finish.

NEW & Cool gear

BY WILLIAM KENDY

The Gamo Whisper Fusion Mach 1 Break Open .22 Rifle

Get into the air gun shooting and hunting game with the powerful, quiet and accurate GAMO Whisper Fusion .22 rifle. The IGT MACH 1 gas piston delivers higher muzzle velocity, less vibration and smoother cocking. It also features Whisper Fusion technology, the quietest noise reduction technology patented by Gamo. It features a two-stage adjustable trigger and a GAMO 3-9×40 air rifle scope.

Suggested Retail price: $289.00 www .gamousa .com

ACC Offers New One-Piece Dock Shooter Spinning Rod

If you are in the market for an affordable yet quality crappie rod that can be used for top notch general casting and also excel at dock shooting, the ACC GS66 6’6” rod is for you. It is extremely sensitive yet has a strong backbone, microwave spinning guides and a split grip handle and light 3.5 ounce provides all day comfort.

Suggested Retail Price: $104.99 www.acccrappiestix.com

Zamberlain Leopard GTX Camo Hunting Boot

The camouflage-patterned 1213 Leopard GTX RR delivers astonishing comfort, fit, and performance on a relatively lightweight and extremely stable platform. It is perfect for early season bow-hunting as well as tactical and military applications. It sports rugged Vibram® 3D outsoles for excellent grip on varied terrain. The Zamberlan Flex System allows the upper to break forward comfortably without compromising lateral support and protection plus more.

Suggested Retail Price: $375.00 www .zamberlanusa .com

Gator Waders Camp Boots for Comfort After the Hunt

After a long day hunting or fishing, keep your feet dry and comfortable with a pair of Gator Waders camp boots. They are perfect for wearing around camp or even into town on rainy or soggy days. These 100% waterproof boots feature a comfortable interior neoprene-lining scuff-and slip-resistant outsoles and reinforced heels and toes offer ultradurability and protection.

Suggested Retail Price: $119.00 www .gatorwaders .com

Easton Offers Carbon Legacy Trad Arrow

The Carbon Legacy combines the traditional look of wood-grained carbon with high-visibility whitedipped and hand-feather-fletched craftsmanship. The Legacy comes fletched with three four-inch left wing helical feathers including a barred index feather with combinations of solid red, white, and bright yellow hen feathers. It is available in five hunting sizes (340, 400, 500, 600, and 700). Includes RPS inserts and pre-installed 6.5mm 3D Super Nocks.

Suggested Retail Price: $69.99/ 6-pack www .eastonarchery .com

SPYPOINT FLEX-S Offers Full-Season Autonomy

The FLEX-S camera has an internal lithium battery, but also allows for eight AA backups, or the addition of the LIT-22 battery pack. When the internal battery percentage dips to a certain point, it will toggle over to the backup batteries until the solar panel has recharged the internal battery to a suitable level then toggle back to the internal battery. This toggle feature optimizes battery life and performance for both battery options.

Suggested Retail Price: $169.00

www.spypoint.com/flex

AFTCO Honcho Stretch Utility Pants

The Honcho utility pants combine clean aesthetics with ultimate functionality. These water repellent pants are built with two-way stretch fabrics and offer full mobility to keep you comfortable on or off the water. A fixed waist with internal drawcord provides a customizable fit, and the built-in pliers pocket delivers convenient storage. They come in a straight leg fit with a 32” inseam and an Elmwood color.

Suggested Retail Price: $79.00 www .aftco .com

Eureka Copper Canyon LX 6-Person Tent

The cabin-style LX 6- person Copper Canyon features a 10 x 10-foot footprint providing plenty of space for the family or buddies. It features near-vertical walls allowing for full standing height. The durable, steel and fiberglass frame features pole sleeves, corner hubs and quick clips for simple one person setup. It has large mesh windows with waterproof curtains for ventilation and extended fly covering over the door.

Suggested Retail Price: $329.95 www eurekacamping johnsonoutdoors com

Burris Introduces New Shotgun Mount for Red Dots

Now, mounting a red dot to your vent-ribbed shotgun is easy and fast with the new Burris SpeedBead™ Vent Rib Mount. Designed for use with any red dot that uses a Docter mounting pattern, the SpeedBead™ Vent Rib Mount is a simple DIY installation that requires no drilling or tapping. The mount is self-centering, and comes with assorted rib adapters to fit multiple shotgun vent rib widths.

Suggested Retail Price: $60.00 www .BurrisOptics .com

Fiocchi’s Newest .223 Cartridge Lethal on Predators

The new Fiocchi Hyperformance Hunt series .223 Remington cartridge throws the Barnes Varmint Grenade bullet that features a frangible copper-tin powdered metal core surrounded by a hollow point gilding metal jacket. It is designed to fragment quickly while still delivering all impact energy to the target leaving pelts relatively undamaged since their rarely leaves exit holes on larger animals.

Suggested Retail Price: N/A

www .FiocchiUSA .com

Abundance of Outdoor Opportunities in April

ADCNR encourages anglers to release speckled trout over 22 inches to allow the fish to continue spawning

BY CHRIS BLANKENSHIP Commissioner of the Alabama Department of Conservation & Natural Resources

Decisions, decisions! Trying to pick an outdoors adventure in April is always difficult because the great state of Alabama offers so many opportunities to enjoy God’s creation. I’ve heard people say that when the dogwoods are blooming, the crappie are biting and the turkeys are gobbling.

Most of you know I grew up on the Alabama Gulf Coast, and fishing was our main pursuit in the spring, so turkey hunting was not on my radar. However, I came to understand the thrill of hearing a turkey gobble in 2018 when I was able to take my first turkey with the help of Wildlife and Freshwater Fisheries (WFF) Director Chuck Sykes.

As a reminder, the Alabama Conservation Advisory Board voted two years ago to move the opening date of turkey season to March 25 in Zone 1, which is the majority of the state, in an effort to reduce the pressure on the species during the breeding cycle. The Board also prohibited the use of decoys for

the first 10 days of the season, though they are allowed for the special youth weekend. The season bag limit is four birds combined for both the fall and spring seasons. Visit www.outdooralabama.com/seasons-and-baglimits/turkey-season for the Zone 2 and Zone 3 regulations and season dates.

One of my favorite things to do in April is to head back to our beautiful coast to catch speckled trout (spotted seatrout) in Mobile Bay and the abundant estuaries. The weather has usually settled down after a blustery March, and the specks can be found in numerous spots, including the various inshore reefs built and maintained by the ADCNR Marine Resources Division (MRD). Visit www.outdooralabama.com/artificialreefs/inshore-reef-zones for an interactive reef map for a better view of the inshore opportunities.

April is also the time to use artificial lures if you prefer not to use live bait. During the

Photo by David Rainer

When is Enough Actually Enough?

For some people, I don’t know if there is a reasonable answer to that question .

I’m confident that most of you have heard the saying, “No good deed goes unpunished.” That statement seems to prove itself year after year for my staff and me. When it comes to hunters and their thoughts and opinions on season dates or bag limits, it never fails that when we make a change, we may get a thank you, but it’s often followed closely by a “But you should’ve done this” statement.

BY CHARLES “CHUCK” SYKES Director of the Alabama Division of Wildlife and Freshwater Fisheries (WFF)

I can remember as a kid hunting in Choctaw County when antlerless (doe) season was only a weeklong period between Christmas and New Year Day, and you could take a buck every day of the season. To work with landowners on their antlerless management, the Deer Management Assistance Program (DMAP) was created. This allowed all

landowners to work with the Department of Conservation to gather crucial information on the deer herd in their area to make it easier to remove the necessary amount of does.

In the early 2000s, the daily bag limit for does was changed to two per day for the entire season, and the buck limit had been reduced to three bucks per year. At each change of the bag limit, most hunters were happy for a short period of time and then the “You really should’ve done this” comments started flowing.

The first major battle I was thrown into a little more than a decade ago was the February deer season extension. As with most changes, some wanted it, and some didn’t. Each side had their own champions of the

Sounders of this size are almost impossible to removing through hunting Whole sounder removal by trapping is the most effective control method

cause, and we, Wildlife and Freshwater Fisheries (WFF), were caught in the middle.

Fortunately, WFF had already begun gathering data on the conception dates of does around the state. After thousands of man hours gathering additional data, a couple of years later we had what we needed to scientifically justify the season framework that we have now: one doe per day and the season extending to February 10.

Now the same people who swore to me then, that if we moved the season to February 10, I’d never hear from them again, they lied! The demand is now for no less than two weekends in February. So, that would mean if February 1st fell on a Monday, the season would close on Sunday February 14. What a great Valentine’s present!!!

The amount of negative email I received from women when we announced the February extension was very unexpected. These ladies were irate because they only had approximately 6 weeks between deer and turkey seasons to get a list of honey-dos accomplished, and we had just taken 10 days away from them. I am confident that pales in comparison to what I’d get if it went all the way to Valentine’s Day.

Deer can be hunted in Alabama for approximately 120 days each year. One hunter could conceivably take three bucks and 120 does each season. How is that not enough time? Why are people still complaining about needing more time to hunt? Frankly, it’s mindboggling.

The next line of endless requests for season extensions is for hogs and coyotes. This is a relatively new request, but it’s rapidly becoming the most hostile and vocal group. Keep in mind that a person can hunt hogs and coyotes on private property 365 days a year during daylight hours with no season and daily bag limit. In addition, a person can trap hogs and coyotes 365 days a year, 24 hours a day, with no season or daily bag limit.

Apparently, this isn’t enough. In response to the outcry for more, legislation was passed two years ago that allows hunters who possess a nighttime feral hog and coyote license to hunt 24 hours per day outside of gun deer season. Not even a year later, the shooters are demanding more time. They want to hunt year-round 24/7, with all of their high-tech gadgets.

To be clear: Hunting of predators, whether it’s hogs, coyotes, bobcats, raccoons, etc. is a recreational activity. It’s not an effective management tool. Trapping is the only way to truly reduce numbers. Anyone who tells you differently is incorrect.

Why would someone proclaim that the key to reducing the hog and coyote population is to be able to hunt them at night from November through January? Really, those three months are the missing link to solving the predator issue? I am not buying what they are trying to sell. The method that may actually make a difference, trapping, is already allowed. But it’s more work and perhaps less fun.

I would be much more inclined to have a reasonable conversation with these people if they wouldn’t insult the intelligence of my staff and me with falsehoods about saving the cattle industry from ravaging coyotes or eliminating the hog problem. Just come to us and say, “Hey, I just like to shoot things at night with my modern sporting rifle (MSR) topped with a thermal scope and my night vision goggles. Can’t you give us the whole year to do it?” That would at least be an honest conversation to have.

The “Coyotes are killing calves so I need to hunt at night during deer season” argument is the one that I guess I have the most issue with.

For those who don’t know, my father has raised cattle since I was a kid. I’ve been around coyotes and cattle for decades. I understand coyote numbers are higher now than they were twenty years ago, but that still doesn’t prove that they are killing healthy calves.

For example, this past December, my father called me to say he’d found a newborn calf killed and eaten by coyotes on our farm. No matter how hard I tried to convince him otherwise, he knew they did it. Keep in mind, I’ve been on that farm around cattle for more than 45 years; he paid for me to attend Auburn University to obtain a degree in Wildlife Management; I operated a successful wildlife management consulting service for approximately 20 years; and I had just reached my 10-year anniversary as state Director of WFF, my dad didn’t think I knew what I was talking about.

It wasn’t until I took the third and fifth stillborn calf to Auburn to the diagnostic laboratory for necropsy that he began to give me just a bit of credit. If coyotes killed and ate the first one, why didn’t they eat the other four? Because coyotes weren’t the problem! No doubt they consumed the first calf, but they definitely didn’t kill it.

WFF is full of professionals who have the academic backgrounds that make them good at their jobs, and most of them also have common sense and personal practical experience that make them good at their job. So, when asking for things, just be honest and upfront with us. Don’t try to blow a smokescreen about the imaginary benefits of your pet project. Since we know the facts about practical wildlife management, this only removes your credibility when you submit the next request.

Kayak Anchoring SystemsHold that Kayak in Place

For many kayak anglers, a simple line and lightweight folding anchor system will work very well

BY ED MASHBURN

One of the great things about kayak fishing is that the mobility a good fishing kayak allows- anglers can go lots of places, come hard to reach with conventional watercraft.. Kayaks are easy to move which makes finding fish a lot easier. But for effective kayak fishing, sometimes it is just as important to make sure the kayak does not move.

Sometimes an angler needs to stop and hold a position for best fishing results.

This is where a well-designed kayak anchoring system comes into play. An anchor can make all the difference between a frustrating situation where the kayak needs to be in a certain place but won’t stay there on its own or a very productive outing with fish in the boat. Kayaks are very subject to wind and tide movement, and an

unanchored kayak will soon be blown or drifted off a hot fishing spot.

HOW TO CHOOSE A KAYAK ANCHORING SYSTEM

Each kayak angler will have different fishing styles and needs when it comes to anchoring. It doesn’t make sense for a kayak angler to spend a lot of money on an anchoring system if a simple “drop the anchor in and tie the rope off” system meets the needs of the angler. It all comes down to what a specific angler needs from her/his anchoring requirements.

If an angler spends most of their time fishing shallow bayous and backwaters, a simple stake out pole may be all the anchor that is needed.

Photos by Ed Mashburn

An angler who fishes larger, more open and deeper waters may need an anchoring system which allows secure contact with the bottom, an anchor and line system of some kind.

CONSIDERATIONS TO TAKE INTO ACCOUNT

Anchoring a kayak can be very helpful for certain fishing situations, but anglers need to keep in mind that anchoring a kayak can also create some very real safety hazards.

An anchored kayak has much less flexibility of movement and if the current is strong or waves are high or there are lots of big boat wakes present, an anchored kayak can easily be overwhelmed by the moving water and can turn over.

Anchoring a kayak should not be done in strong current. A free-floating kayak under paddle or pedal power is a stable, secure craft, but an anchored kayak gives up a lot of the kayak’s stability.

The classic situation where a kayak should not be anchored is the passes to the gulf from bays. These passes are great places to catch some big fish, but they are often very rough with boat wakes, Big waves coming in against outgoing current, and just plain strong outgoing current can get spooky in a kayak fast. It is best not to anchor in these passes

DIFFERENT KAYAK ANCHORING SYSTEMS

Stake out poles are just what their name says, poles long enough to reach the bottom which can secure a kayak. These poles can be purchased ready-made or rigged up by the angler. Stake out poles need to be long enough to reach the bottom but not so long as to present a problem on the deck of the kayak. Most anglers can do very well with a pole about six feet long. Despite being such a simple and cheap item, stake out poles can be very effective kayak anchoring devices in shallow water situations.

Anchor trolleys are systems which allow anglers to position the anchor point of the kayak anywhere from the very bow of the boat to the very stern. This adjustability makes anchoring much more secure and allows the boat to be positioned for the best casting position for the angler. Trolley systems are more complex and require some attachment points to be mounted on the hull of the kayak both bow and stern. A very good trolley system at a very reasonable price for the price is the LeverLoc system by YakAttack. At only $45, this is a very good kayak anchoring set up.

We can’t overlook the most sophisticated kayak anchoring system- an electronically operated pole which is mounted to the stern of the kayak and which drops down to secure the kayak to bottom with the push of a button. These systems are easy to operate, very fast to make a secure hold, and they hold a kayak very securely in position. The Mini- Power Pole from the PowerPole Company is a good anchor of this kind. Shallow water anglers who operate this “drop-pole” system swear by it as a very easy to use and effective anchoring device.

FAQS

How to anchor a kayak with/without a trolley

To securely anchor a kayak whether using a trolley system or a simple “drop it in and cleat it off” anchor on a rope is fairly simple. Locate the position the kayak needs to be, move up current or upwind a bit and quietly let the anchor down. Give a little scope to the anchor line, and the kayak should be set in position.

What size anchor for a kayak-weight

For most kayak angling applications, a 1.5 pound to 3.0 pound anchor will work fine. Kayaks are light and they don’t put a lot of pressure on a properly set anchor.

How to attach an anchor to a kayak

Although attaching an anchor to the kayak is important, it is important also to make sure that if the anchor must be released at times, to chase a big hooked fish or to make an emergency change of location- that the anchor can be later retrieved. Each anchor should have a float attached to its line so that the anchor won’t be forever lost if it has to be released quickly. A simple Styrofoam float such as used for crab traps which has the anchor line run through the middle opening of the float will allow kayak anglers to drop the anchor and come back later to pick it up.

In general, kayak anchor lines can be secured to the kayak with a simple cleat securely attached to the kayak hull. This allows a very quick and secure attachment with an equally quick and easy release when it comes time to move.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Anchoring a kayak securely and well can make the difference between a frustrating, non-productive fishing trip and a trip which gives the angler a chance to catch a lot of good fish. Each angler’s needs will be different, and each angler’s anchoring system will reflect these different needs.

Gulf Coast Fishing Outlook

BY CHRIS VECSEY

Springtime is here along the gulf coast. For many species, it is the signal for the first spawn of the year. It’s also the arrival time for migratory species that winter further south. From inshore to offshore, there’s no shortage of action.

MISSISSIPPI

This month is a prime time for speckled trout, especially trophy fish of over 5lbs.

The barrier islands and sound will be the best areas to fish.

Big trout will be feeding heavily as they near their first spawn of the year. Larger profile baits are the way to go if you’re looking for heavyweight trout. Lures that imitate mullet, bigger menhaden and croakers are the best bet. The same options in live baits are a near-guarantee.

Baits and lures should be fished along drop offs in three to six feet of water. Live baits should be freelined or rigged on Carolina rigs with bead/ weight combinations to produce loud “clicks” while the bait struggles.

While cruising through the sound, always keep your eyes out for debris or tidelines. These structures may be holding the first wave of tripletail for the year. Tripletail will often be near the surface and can usually be sight casted. A live shrimp is a sure-fire way to get tasty tripletail.

April is a great month to target swordfish in our region.

For artificial, DOA shrimp and various soft plastic tails are generally best.

Large schools of baitfish like sardines, glass minnows and other various finfish will generate open water frenzies. Spanish mackerel, bluefish, ladyfish, bull redfish and others may be present during these surface blitzes.

Getting bit in these scenarios is a matter of matching the hatch. In most of these occurrences, spoons from ½-2oz, bucktails in the same size range and various hardbaits like the Mirrolure MR18 will do very well.

This is also a great time to break out the fly rod. Clouser minnows, small deceivers and even topwater poppers will work well and keep the buggy whips bent. Short bite tippets of heavy mono or even light wire, will be necessary.

ALABAMA

Many anglers along the Al coast will have their eyes trained to the green waters just off the beach, for the hopeful arrival of cobia.

The spring cobia run has been slower in recent years, but there are still sight fishing opportunities to be had with these fish as they migrate along the beaches through the month and until mid May.

Once a fish is spotted, large feather/bucktail jigs

Photo courtesy Chris Vecsey

or plastic eels make good lure choices. The ace-in-the-hole bait is a live eel or small catfish. Rig these baits on a circle hook sized to the bait and short leaders of 50-60lb mono or fluoro.

Now is a great time to do some nearshore trolling for mackerel. Both king and Spanish mackerel will be abundant just off of the beaches and around nearshore reefs and platforms.

Trolling spoons, lipped diving plugs and dusters will hook up with plenty of mackerel. Trolling speeds should be around three to fi e miles per hour. On days when the fish are running deeper, adding a planer in front of your lures or baits will help.

Further offshore, shallow water groupers will reopen on the first of the month. This includes scamp, red grouper and black grouper. Gag grouper will remain closed until June.

To successfully target grouper, it’s best to fish natural bottom areas vs artificial reefs. Fishing areas like these will also lead to less bycatch species like red snapper and triggerfish.

Live baits like cigar minnows, small blue runners (hardtails) and pinfish will do best. These baits should be fished on stout gear near the bottom.

Around the oil/gas platforms further out, it’s tuna time. Yellowfin, bigeye, blackfin and the occasional bluefin will be on the menu. Live baiting is a top tactic for hungry tuna, but chunking is another top technique. Trolling ballyhoo and kite fishing are also good methods for taking tuna around the rigs.

FLORIDA PANHANDLE

As with the Al coast, many panhandle anglers will turn their eyes to the

emerald green waters just offshore.

Unlike the nearshore waters of the Alabama coast, panhandle beaches have numerous areas with natural bottom structures. These areas attract bait and with it, migrating species like cobia, mackerel and other pelagics.

These areas can be fished while drifting, bottom fishing or slow trolling. Drifting live baits, both freelined and with lightly weighted “knocker rigs” will score with cobia holding just over these structures.

Inshore, the grass beds and numerous flats through the sound and local bays from Pensacola to Panama City, will hold good numbers of speckled trout and redfish.

Covering water with topwater lures, flukes and small jerk baits is a good way to find fish. Live baits like shrimp, finger mullet and croakers are the best live baits. Fishing grass edges and drop offs is best when live baiting. The best methods are freelining or fishing under popping corks.

Offshore, April is a prime month to target swordfish, both day and night. These gladiators will be reliable targets just past the 200-fathom line. Finding bait at depth is the key to success.

For daytime fishing, baits should be fished between 1,200-1,400 feet. Whole squid and bonito belly strips are the usual picks, although swords aren’t particularly picky.

For nighttime fishing, anywhere from 2-5 lines may be used and set at depths of 50-500 feet down. The same baits that are deployed during the day may be used at night.

Pier & Shore

Fishing Outlook

Larger Spanish mackerel are common in April from the beach piers .

Spanish mackerel are usually the most abundant catches from the Gulf beach piers in April .

BY DAVID THORNTON

by David Thornton

Ask any pier or shore angler which is their favorite month of the year, and 9 out of 10 will answer “April”. As we move into springtime along the Emerald Coast, warming air and water provide more angling options and nicer days to enjoy. Longer daylight hours combined with stronger rays from the sun turn the shallow surfzone and inshore waters into a hotbed of activity. Native invertebrate species like “sandfleas” (mole crabs) and beach ghost shrimp become more active as the water temperatures warm from the upper 60s into the low 70s.

Any number of fish species like pompano, “whiting” (Gulf kingfish), redfish, black drum,

sheepshead, and bluefish swoop into the surfzone to take advantage of this seasonal abundance of food. These are joined by flounder and even speckled trout to the west along the Alabama and Mississippi beaches.

On top of all that, a plethora of pelagic species (mackerel and jacks) are making their way into the region. They are also feasting, but on squid and smaller “baitfish” species like anchovies, “cigar minnows” (scad), herring (“LYs”), sardines, or menhaden (“pogies”) spawning in the warm shallow waters. All of this growth is fueled by various plankton species feeding in the nutrient rich waters.

Photos

LISTING THE OPTIONS

Pompano are the primary attraction for surf fishermen this month as they stage in the surf zone, gathering into larger pre-spawn aggregations. The bigger females (two to four pounds) are often attended by multiple smaller males. Timing of their spawn (and vacation from the surf zone) seems to be related to the moon phases and water temperature. Typically, peak time of abundance for pompano in the surf is prior to the full moon in April as the water temperature rises into the low 70s. But that trend may be a bit unclear this year with the April full moon occurring so early in the month (the 6th).

So, depending upon the rate of water temperature increase March through May, we may see pompano numbers in the surf peak in early April, or build slowly through the month.

Surf anglers seem to have many favored approaches to pompano fishing, and most seem to work well enough to garner a limit this month. But conditions of wind and waves can still challenge anglers, so remaining adaptable is going to assure success through this month, and beyond.

Sheepshead is another spring spawning species influenced by these same factors. After spawning in the shallow coastal waters near hard structures in March and/or April, sheepshead often stage just off the Gulf beaches perhaps to recover their strength by feeding on the abundance of invertebrates in the surfzone as they make their way to the estuaries where most spend the warmer months.

During this time, sheepshead have a peculiar habit of gathering into loose schools in fairly shallow water (3 to 10 feet deep). In clearer water, they may be seen facing into the current. They can be sightcast to along the bottom around piers and jetties, and on the drop-off slope of sandbars. Light terminal tackle is often required to get these wary fish to bite in shallow water. A small #6 single hook, 10#-15# fluorocarbon leader, and just enough weight (split shot to one ounce) to present your bait in a natural manner, drifting slowly along the bottom is the key. The bait may be live or even fresh dead shrimp, ghost shrimp, sandfleas, or hermit crabs and it should be bite-sized, because the mouth of an average two to four pound sheepshead is fairly small.

Spanish mackerel are usually the most abundant catches from the Gulf beach piers in April. Their average size picks up dramatically as more two to three pound female fish show up. They too are nearing their first seasonal spawn, and always seem hungry. Most Spanish mackerel are caught with ½ to ¾ ounce white leadhead jigs on a 30# to 40# clear monofilament leader. Many are also caught on the everpopular 7/8 to 1 ounce Got-cha plugs but some of the largest mackerel are caught on four or five inch long diving plugs like Rapala X-rap or Yoz-uri Crystal Minnow. King mackerel may grab these plugs as well, so this time of year many mackerel anglers step up to 4000 or 5000 series reels with 20 pound braid line on a medium heavy e foot rod.

On the beach piers many king mackerel are caught this month using live baits such as cigar minnows, sardines, or “LYs” (herring). Even more kings seem to be caught via a time tested method called “snobbling”. Almost an art form, this is the presentation of a dead bait to make it look like it is still barely alive and gamefish often find that action irresistible. Terminal tackle is minimal with just a small black swivel attached to about a foot long piece of steel leader wire (#27 to #40 single strand or Sevenstrand). That is attached to a 3X or 4X strong #1/0 to #4 treble hook, depending on the size of the bait. The bait is hooked in the head and cast far away from the pier and allowed

to sink down slowly 15 to 25 feet. The angler begins a retrieve with a few sharp turns of the reel handle. Then the bail is opened to allow the bait to sink down again. The action is repeated until the bait gets back to the pier or a fish grabs it. Be sure to allow the fish a few seconds to get the whole bait in its mouth before setting the hook. This is why manual bait reels became so popular with Panhandle pier anglers in the 1960s and 70s, and still are today.

Another specialized pier fishery is cobia fishing. These anglers pretty much dedicate themselves to watching the water to the east for hours in order to spot an approaching cobia. The fish typically weigh 30 to 40 pounds, but may be twice that heavy or more. So they tackle up with a stout 8 to 10 foot heavy action rod, needed to fling a three ounce leadhead jig 60 to 80 yards with pinpoint accuracy. The reels are large and robust 6000 to 8000 series reels or comparable with a strong drag pull. This is needed to muscle cobia away from pier piling, and why so many cobia fishermen spool up with 65# braided line.

Note that some piers have “first shot” rules for cobia fishing, while others do not. That means when an angler spots the cobia and calls out “first shot” he has priority to cast to it and work the lure unmolested. If the cast is errant, or the fish turns away from the first lure then other anglers may cast. It becomes sheer bedlam at that point with casts from different locations often causing tangled lines and strained manners. It all gets sorted out in the end, as pier fishermen always do, and some really big cobia get put on the Panhandle piers every April.

So is it any wonder this month is a favorite for fishing? With all kinds of options blooming for shore-bound anglers enjoying their great days outdoors!

REGIONAL FRESHWATER

Fishing Outlook

BY ED MASHBURN

Some big bass will be caught this month- with a little expert advice.

Photos by Ed Mashburn

FLORIDA WATERS

WAKULLA/ WACISSA RIVERS

Both the Wakulla and the Wacissa hold good populations of feisty Suwanee bass, the Florida equivalent of smallmouth bass, and these little battlers are a lot of fun to catch.

Bass anglers will want to throw frogs and speed worms for the big bass, and early and late in the day Zara Spooks are very good for the topwater bite.

Long time area angler Bill Goodroe of Wilderness Way in Shadeville, Florida advised anglers that both of these lovely spring-fed rivers will be very good for post spawn bass fishing in April.

“The bass are off the beds now, but they will be feeding,” he said.

For anglers who go after truly big bass, the Wacissa River down toward Goose Pasture is home to some very big ten pound plus bass. Last year, a fifteen-pound bass was taken in April from the Wacissa.

Panfish will be on fire in April. Bream of all kinds will rise to dry flies, poppers, and foam body bugs. Live bait will always work.

“They’re all over the place in April,”Goodroe said,

Wilderness Way runs chartered guided fishing trips, and these trips are a way to learn the better fishing spots on the rivers, and how to fish the spring-fed streams.

LAKE TALQUIN

“The bass will still be spawning in places, and the post-spawn pattern will be good. There will be shad spawning by then in the shallows. Jerk baits matched to the small size of the shad fished around shallows will be very good in early mornings. Any of the lake’s shallows can hold great bass in April,” said Jeff DuBree of Whippoorwill Lodge on Lake Talquin.

Bream will be very good in April. Bluegill will be spawning heavily and anglers using crickets and worms can fill an ice chest. Also, DuBree recommends anglers try small Beetle Spins in black with gold spinners for great bream action.

Some big redears will be caught in April in deeper water- 8-10 feet around sandy humps in the main lake.

Catfish will be quite good in April for anglers who use stinkbaits.

ALABAMA WATERS

MILLER’S FERRY

For best fishing regardless of the target, anglers will want to concentrate on the sloughs such as Gold Mine, Marina Slough, and Hog Pen Slough where the water will warm faster than the rest of the lake.

“It’s all going to be wide open. Everything will be in full-blown spring patterns,” Joe Dunn of Dunn’s Sports in Thomasville said,

For bass anglers that means they’ll want to work the banks at Miller’s Ferry using spinnerbaits, buzzbaits and chatterbaits. They can’t go wrong using white and chartreuse, white and blue, and Joe’s favorite color combination, white and gold in the spinnerbaits.

Bass anglers can also find good bass by flipping jigs in the growing grass mats.

Crappie anglers will also want to be looking at shallow water. Crappie will be on the spawning grounds in the shallows and anglers can work the banks with live minnows under floats. Dunn says that vertical jigging around the stumps will produce lots of slabs in April- look in four to six feet of water.

Catfish will be hot too. All of the shallow flats will have catfish in April and jugs with one to foot long lines will work well. For best catfish catching, fresh cut shad will be the best bait.

LAKE WILSON/PICKWICK

Mouths of major creeks like Shoal, McKernan, Six Mile, and Big Nance will all hold staging fish this month. In the main lake fish should concentrate along the base of bluff lines relating vertically to blow downs and chunk rock where present. Some fish will always be on or near the bottom, but look for fish to start suspending in the water column as the water warms throughout the month. A good way to catch these cats is to use a 2/0 or 3/0 Mister Twister weighted worm hook to medium heavy action spinning tackle and bait with shad, skipjack, or chicken livers and cast toward bluff and allow it to slowly fall to the bottom. If live crayfish can be found they are deadly for big blue cats fished this way.

“We’ll have a potentially wider range of water temperatures this month. Water temperatures will begin in the low to mid 50’s and by month’s end should reach the 70-degree mark. Catfish will start migrating into the mouth of the deeper sloughs early this month.” said Captain Brian Barton. a veteran Tennessee River lakes angler and guide.

Tops and just off the river ledges will be good spots to target. The mouths of Indian, Second, and Bear Creeks will hold plenty of catfish this month. Look for these fish in anywhere from 15 to 35 feet of water

On the upper end of Pickwick, near the dam look for concentrations of cats behind wing walls and rock piles that run horizontally along the lake. The barge canal below the dam is an excellent place to fish late in the month. Last year during the last weekend of April, we took 47 cats on jugs in less than five hours. For those who like to jug fish, set jugs 8 to 12 feet deep and bait with shrimp, shad gut, or cut bait. The gravel bar at Pond Creek will load up with spawning channel catfish this month. To target these fish, anchor upstream and along the edge of the gravel bar

LAKE EUFAULA

Captain Sam Williams from Hawks Guide Service predicted that bass will be found near brush piles on the river edges, and anglers will need to look for grass growing rapidly.

Soft plastics rigged Carolina style and lipless crank baits will pull these bass in. Bass will be found in good groups near the mouths of creeks, and the hydrilla should be growing and creating thick mats of vegetation which will hold better bass. Anglers should look for the fresh green color, and if this new grass is near other structure such as blowdowns or old lily pad stems, it deserves some time and attention.

The catfish bite will be getting very good in April when the whisker fish will be going to the spawning beds. Live bait or big chunks of cut bait will work either on rod and reel or jug fishing.

”They’ll be up in creeks so look for them in weeds and pads. A little caution is in order when pulling on jug lines which seem to have big catfish on them,” Williams said.

For some white bass and hybrid action, anglers can use lipless crank baits and spinner baits in silver or white colors near creek and river channels where the fish will either be heading upstream to spawn

or downstream back to the main lake body after they’ve completed spawning.

April will also see bream of all kinds starting their annual move to shallow water for bedding. Try live bait fished on the bottom around shoreline cover for April bream action.

LAKE WEISS

Weiss is famous for its crappie fishing, and April is a great month to get in on the crappie bite. Crappie will be shallow around brush piles, piers, and stump rows. Crappie will be spawning the whole month, so the fishing and catching will be hot if the fish can be located and the angler puts the right bait before them. Lots of two to two and half pound crappie will be located and caught in April.

“Locating the new growth water vegetation is a matter of high priority for anglers looking for the best bass fishing. If you can find some fresh green- a mix of old and new grass- find the grass with the yellow-tipped flowers- the bass like that better,” advised Captain Lee Pitts who has fished and guided on Weiss for many years.

Spinner baits, jigs in 3/8 ounce weights or soft plastic lizards will all work well in the springtime grass. For the spinner baits, go with white or white/chartreuse colors and just slow roll it across the bottom. Another good April technique is to let the spinner bait sin, and then slowly hop it back. When the spinner bait reaches the end of the grass, just let it “die” and sink. Often the bass will take it as it falls toward the bottom. Jig colors which work well on Weiss bass are black and blue, and green pumpkin colors. The Zoom Super-Chunk is a very good addition to the jig.

Location is important in April and PItts says that the better fish will be way in the backs of pockets.

”We like to throw a cork with a jig under it. A Southern Pro jig in 1/32 oz weight in dark colors such as black/chartreuse and gape and chartreuse are great on cloudy days. On brighter days we’ll go with black and red, blue/sour grape, and white/chartreuse colors,” Pitts said.

Fishing the cork and jig combination for big slabs is pretty easy if you don’t like to work too hard and too fast.

”Throw the jig with a three-foot leader. Ease it eight to ten inches and stop. Let it swing and try to shake it under the jig. Work this rig near cover.” Pitts advised.

”Most all flats on Weiss have stumps, holes, something that’s holding the fish. Find the structure and you’ll find the fish and keep working these spots,” he added.

MOBILE DELTA

“In the Delta, pay attention to the water level. Keep a log book of some kind to note water levels and fishing results. Then you can come back on a later year and have a good idea of how to start. It’s critical to pay attention to the river stages. The Mobile radio station gives river stage information every week,” says tournament angler and long-time guide Captain Wayne Miller.

Mille said that on most years, the Delta sees waves of spawning fish, so in April, there will still be some fish spawning and other fish post-spawn. A lot of bass will be up in shallow water in April, and they’ll stay there for quite a while after the spawn is done.

According to Miller, spinnerbaits, crankbaits, swim jigs and chatterbaits all work well, but blade baits are the most common lure thrown in April.

Anglers are advised to match the size of the spinnerbait to the baitfish present- and this means the spinner may need to be quite small. If the water is still high and stained, a larger, noisier spinner may work better. A little hint- a spinnerbait with a red blade can work very well in April.

Miller said, “In April, it’s a matter of trial and error. You may need to change color and size of the lure to find what the bass want. Size can be very important,” he said.

LAKE GUNTERSVILLE

Bass in Guntersville will often make a bed under the grass mats as protection and cover. This can help anglers locate bedding fish. Any green grass needs to be worked with lizards, worms, chunks, creature baits and all will work when they are dropped into or below the green grass. Try the soft plastics as trailers for jigs in 3/8 to ½ oz weights. Black/blue and peanut butter and jelly (purple with brownish steaks) are good colors for the bedding bass. Rattle-L-Traps in red colors if murky water and Texas Shad patterns if clear will work well.

“Fish the sloughs off the main river and the shallow flats off the main rivers. The Goose Pond Marina area and the Mud Creek areas are both very good for April bass,” predicts Captain Jake Davis, Guntersville guide and angler. from Mid-South Bass Guide Service

Davis saud that crappie anglers looking for good slab action will find crappie on the beds on flats, and they will often be in the same general area as the spawning bass.

”I’ll find flats with crappie spawning, and the bass will be eating the crappie.” It’s totally possible for anglers to fish the crappie for a good mess of fine-eating slabs, and then fish big silver crank baits or spinner baits on the edges of the crappie beds to catch some big bass which have been dining on the crappie, too. To catch the crappie, try live minnows or small plastic-body jigs work very slowly across the bedding areas,” he pointed out.

Bream anglers should start to find bluegills and redears moving into shallower water, and don’t be surprised if bream start to show up while anglers are working crappie beds. Bream will take small crappie jigs,

There’s not much more fun than a light spinning rig and some big bream

but crickets and red worms fished on light tackle will work best.

SIPSEY FORK

Randy Jackson of Riverside Fly Shop on the Sipsey Fork tells us that April should begin some of the best fly fishing of the entire year

“April is in the best hatching months of the year, and in April we usually have a good caddis fly hatch usually, but it’s all dependent on the weather. Anglers need to watch the weather and look for days that are not too humid and are calm and cloudy- these are the best dry fly fishing days,” Jackson said

Last year, the Sipsey Fork had some great fly hatches all summer from April to August.

When the bugs are not hatching off, anglers can use subsurface nymphs like the classic Hare’s Ear in sizes 14 to 16 for good results.

For those anglers who have not mastered a fly rod yet, lots of Sipsey Fork rainbows can be caught on ultra-light spinning gear. Jackson says,” Use a tiny swivel with a light leader and a fly. Put a tiny lead above the swivel and a float above that. The fly moves through the water naturally.” Four-pound test line on the ultra-light rig is needed, and fluorocarbon line works best.

Skipjacks may very well be up the river near the dam in April, and they are a blast on light tackle. Anything tiny, shiny lure or fly will work for the jumping skipjacks.

Anglers can expect to find nine-inch rainbows quite often, and there are some fine twenty-inch hold over rainbow trout downstream.

Important Contact Information

Joe Dunn Dunn’s Sports 334-636-0850

33356 Hwy 43, Thomasville, AL

Captain Sam Williams Hawks Guide Service 334-687-0400

Brandon Jackson/ Randy Jackson Riverside Fly Shop 17027 Hwy 69N Jasper, AL 256-287-9582 Riversideflyshop.com

Captain Lee Pitts 256-390-4145 www.leepittsoutdoors.com

Captain Brian Barton 256-412-0960 brianbartonoutdoors.com

Captain Jake Davis

Mid-South Bass Guide Service

615-613-2382

msbassguide@comcast.net

Jeff DuBree

Whipperwill Sportsman’s Lodge Lake Talquin

850-875-2605

fishtalquin@gmail.com

Captain Wayne Miller Mobile-Tensaw Delta Guide Service

251-455-7404

Millewa2000@yahoo.com

Bill Goodroe Wilderness Way

850-877-7200

3152 Shadeville Road Crawfordville, FLA 32327

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KID'S CORNER TROPHY ROOM

Finn Lee with a heck of a bass

Caleb Black with his 7 point

Cooper Garmeson with his catch and his broken favorite rod

Jameson Norris with a wall hanger

Kip Lewis, 6, of Saraland, AL with

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Lucas Lee with his very first jack

Patton Wayne Guy, 4,

1ST Jack

1ST Buck

April Fishing Tip

BY WILLIAM KENDY

Fishing isn’t just all about catching fish. Most of it has to do with being able to put yourself in a position to catch fish and that means safely (and having fun at the same time) getting to where they are hanging out and taking it from there. In other words, you have to find them to catch them and for most fishermen, that means having a well-maintained boat.

When it comes to boats it doesn’t take much to derail a fishing excursion and it can be because of some small problem. A loose connection, a malfunction of some kind (even small) and to help negate that risk it pays to be proactive, even though those steps may seem insignificant.

Captain Blake Nelson from Last Chance Charters in Destin, Florida specializes in helping anglers successfully fish the Coast Gulf and Choctawhatchee Bay. He readily admits that he has an “Obsessive Compulsive Disorder” (OCD) when it comes to boat maintenance, especially when it comes to “through bolts”.

“Anytime I work on anything for my boat that has to do with a through bolt, putting on a hatch, putting on a cleat, I’ll coat the boat first with prop

grease and I’ll install everything with prop grease through all of my fittings,” Nelson said. “After I am done tightening everything down, I’ll take a little alcohol and a rag and clean it all up.”

“Every time I’ve done that I have found zero corrosion and zero rusk for years afterwards and I think it stays there forever and it keeps the metal from corroding,” he added.

Nelson pointed out that he used to use silica but found sometimes it traps moisture and can cause corrosion and that is when he decided to give prop grease a shot just to see what would happen.

“I thought it would be a cool experiment so far I haven’t found or had any problems with it and it definitely works,” he said.

Contact Information

Captain Blake Nelson

Last Chance Charters

www.captainblake.com

850-499-3811

For Whom the Bell Tolls

sunbathing. I stop and engage a few at the low end of the price range, pretending interest as if making small talk.

I may shake one gingerly, watching its graceful curves, yet knowing that it’s flawed. Some seem to be dancing just out of step and dressing them up with a reel and line could not make them perfect in my grasp. At least, not as perfect as the one I’ve come to meet.

BY JIM MIZE

Inside the door of my favorite fly shop hangs a small bell. It tinkles as you enter, like the bell in the movie It’s a Wonderful Life. Only, in this shop, every time it rings it’s not an angel but a mayfly that gets his wings. Or is about to. The owner sits in the back tying flies until a customer walks in and then he’ll stop to come out and wait on them.

For me, the bell works like the one Pavlov used on his dog. I start to drool when I hear it, knowing that this store holds all things good. I may enter for a pack of hooks, but the bell awakens so many possibilities.

Once inside, I fall into a routine that has me traveling the store like a wolf marking his territory. Though I’ve usually had plenty of coffee, I do nothing to lay claim or risk being tossed out.

The first stop in my shopping route is usually the sale bin with the hope that something good found its way in. Maybe even by mistake. Fishermen are trained to trust their luck.

The bin may be nothing more than a cardboard box but the contents take on the feel of an estate auction, one where a crazy uncle may have slipped in some heirloom jewelry to avenge a past grievance. Usually, it’s full of odd-lot materials, something that may have been hot three seasons ago but now collects dust. I picked up a pack of pink rabbit fur that doesn’t suggest a fly pattern so much as a reason the rabbit got it in the first place. Such a handicap might make for a flashy bunny leech, but it sure would have made it a cinch to shoot.

At this point, the owner’s Lab walks up and sits beside me. He knows I’m good for a scratch under the chin and behind the ears. He gives me the knowing look of an accomplice, rolling his dark eyes as if to confirm he’ll keep my secret.

For my next stop, I work my way around to the wall where the hackles hang. You can never have too many good capes and they’re better sneaked into the house one neck at a time. So I go through the rack looking for new arrivals.

Eventually, I make it to the hook rack and pick up the size 14 DaiRiki pupa hooks that I came in for. With my mission accomplished, I loiter a bit, like my next move is toward an illicit meeting and I don’t want any witnesses. Glancing over my shoulder, I saunter as casually as possible to the rod rack.

The rods are assembled and reclining at a slight uphill tilt as if

I move on down the rack to pick it up and it’s weightless in my knowing touch. In my mind, it’s the most attractive I’ve ever seen, the threads precisely wrapped and coated. The balance is graceful to the point that I hardly close the handle in my fingers. It fits as if made for my hand.

I can imagine the line waltzing across the water and dropping delicately to the surface. To accomplish a mend would take no more than a gentle caress.

A twinge of guilt hits as I linger, unable to part. It’s not as if I need another. Surely, the rods I have at home are suitable, even loyal in their performance. And we’ve had our days on the river. I know we have.

Still, this rod and I have a special bond. It doesn’t matter that socially I’m beneath such a rod. You can just look at us both and tell. Better yet, you could check the price tag on it and be assured.

But it doesn’t matter, I tell myself. If I owned such a rod, I’d never disgrace it with a bass bug or common wooly bugger. It would be parachute dries, Wulff’s coachmen, or even midges dropped off a size 18 Adams. The tippets for such a rod would be finer than the Queen’s lace.

I would prove myself worthy of such a rod and her to me.

Unnoticed as if I’ve eased into a trance, the shop owner had slipped up behind me and startled me by saying, “You know, you’ve fondled that rod so much when you come in, you’ve worn your thumb print into the grip. I’ll knock fifty bucks off it if you’ll take it today.”

That, I knew, was fate speaking.

So as I left the shop, the rod wrapped up in my embrace, the door eased shut behind me and I heard the bell tinkle softly, partially muffled by the closing door. Finally, at that moment, I knew the answer to the question, “for whom the bell tolls?”

Today, it tolls for me.

“For Whom the Bell Tolls” is an excerpt from Jim’s awardwinning book, A Creek Trickles Through It. You can find his books on Amazon or purchase autographed copies at www . acreektricklesthroughit .com .