The Savannah Designer Issue n 29 Autumn & Winter 2019
John Wu
Issue n ° 29 AUTUMN & WINTER 2019 ON THE COVER John Wu photographed by Evan McCormick in Savannah on 22 February 2019.
City of Savannah The entirety of this magazine was created in Savannah, Ga. Savannah is a city of contradictions. It is at its core an old, Southern city,but it is also home to the Savannah College of Art and Design. A huge multi-campus, art school that fosters the creative growth of countless students, this staff included. It is ironic that a largely liberal-minded body of students finds their home in an Old Southern town.Savannah is a quirky city that can’t be defined easily.
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NEW OFFICE Correct, the London address on the left is a new one. It’s all very exciting. Please note, this issue was still made in the cosy sorroundings of 1 Tavistock Chambers, which has been Fantastic Man’s trusty London headquarters for more than seven years. It will be dearly missed.
office@fantasticman.com www.fantasticman.com THE TEAM Editor in Chief..............................................Mackenzie Strickland Creative Director..................................................Nicole Betances Editorial Director.............................................................Julia Riley Producer...........................................................Francie Hutcheson Art Director....................................................................Ann Stoker
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MASTHEAD continued from page 38 Contributing Writers: Julia Riley, Mackenzie Strickland Contributing Photographers: Andrew Gabay, Lance Langel, Evan McCormick, Cameron Cox THANK YOU
Thanks a Million! Thank you to all of the fellow students who assisted us in the creation of this magazine! Thank you to the photographers for spending hours at our shoots. Thank you to the models who posed and let us dive into their closets. Thank you to the interviewees for opening up.
Roy Ebank, Will Garner, Luke Eckl, Robert Matuluko, Brandon Thompson, Jermain Jones, Brandon Thompson, Daniel Claypool ISSN 1574-9890 Published by Jop van Bennekom and Gert Jonkers for TOP Publishers BV Printing: Die Keure, Bruges, Belgium ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES EUROPE Elizabeth Sims elizabeth@fantasticman.com Phone +44 20 7242 8802 ITALY Fabio Montobbio at Rock Media fabio@rockmedia.it Phone +39 02 782 608 USA Michael Bullock michael@fantasticman.com Phone +1 917 349 0417
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FANTASTIC MAN Issue n ° 29 AUTUMN & WINTER 2019 MAN STUFF Short series filled with desirable matter (Photography by Lance Langel) 47 .................................................................. ONE COLOR KINDLY PITCHING FROM SAVANNAH Five art students from around the world (Photography by Evan McCormick) 54 ......... His journey in Fashion by MITCHELL VASSIE 55 ... His history in Photography by EVAN MCCORMICK 58 ... The meaning to his approach by TAYLER AYERS 59 .. His senior design collection by RUBEN SALAZAR
63 to 72 ..................................................................................... MAN-CCESORIES Layered designere jewelry (Text by Julia Riley, photography by Andrew Gabay, styling by Nicole Betances) 73 to 86 ............................................................................. BEYOND ATHLEISURE The sneaker hype (Text by Julia Riley, photography by Andrew Gabay, styling by Francie Hutcheson) 87 to 96 .......................................................................................... NEON NIGHTS Inspired by the world famous neon lights of Hong kong (Photography by Evan McCormick) 97 to 100 ...................................................................................... DUGALD FELTON Aussie native entrepreneur and model (Text by Julia Riley, photography by Andrew Gabay)
101 to 110 .............................................................................................PATCHWORK The return to work in, worn down, and patched up (Text by Mackenzie Strickland, photography by Cameron Cox, styling by Francie Hutcheson)
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CONTENTS continued from page 44
111 to 126 ...................................................................................................JOHN WU Chinese native and scad fashion design senior (Text by Mackenzie Strickland, photography by Evan McCormick)
127 to 140 ........................................RETHINKING THE TWO PIECE CLASSIC SUIT Your go to classics, reimagined (Text by Mackenzie Strickland, photography by Andrew Gabay, styling by Nicole Betances) 141 to 154 ..............................................................................................ATHLEISURE Professional athletic wear (Photography by Cameron Cox, styling by Nicole Betances)
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FANTASTIC MAN
One Color Monochromatic 1: BEIGE Vintage jacket by LEVIS...a color combination you can never go wrong with...hand breast pockets with a sweater by JACOB HALSTON and wrist candy by TAG HEUER worn with pants by DIESEL.
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MAN STUFF
Monochromatic 2: DARK Jackett by LOUIS VUITTON…always on trend...with a turtleneck by UNIQLO...seems effortless with black jeans by DIESEL.
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FANTASTIC MAN
Monochromatic : ONE COLOR
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MAN STUFF
Monochromatic 1: BEIGE Vintage jacket by LEVIS...a color combination you can never go wrong with...hand breast pockets with a sweater by JACOB HALSTON and wrist candy by TAG HEUER worn with pants by DIESEL.
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FANTASTIC MAN
Monochromatic 2: DARK Jackett by LOUIS VUITTON…always on trend...with a turtleneck by UNIQLO...seems effortless with black jeans by DIESEL.
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MAN STUFF
Monochromatic : ONE COLOR
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KINDLY PITCHING FROM SAVANNAH
Professor Mitchell Vassie is kindly pitching..HIS JOURNEY IN FASHION I was born in a rough working-class town in Scotland. The kind of place where if you showed an interest in fashion you would probably take a beating from a homophobic local in a heartbeat. I then moved to London via Paris.It had its moments, but bigger cities can inspire more open attitudes. I always had an interest in the more sartorial aspects of fashion design. After studying I fell into this strange and beautiful business. Working for Vivienne Westwood, Gieves and Hawkes ( the royal tailors on Saville Row) and also some low-end awful companies. Before I decided to become a professor, I spent the last 20 years based in Amsterdam and Antwerp working for high-end designers and mid-level companies. I got my Fashion design degree from Notting-
ham Trent University. I have a few artists that inspire me… however I had the honor and pleasure of working with Massimo Osti. He basically inspired me to find my design philosophy of, “With one eye on the past I walk backward into the future. Taking the best elements of the past and making them relevant for today. The creation of an “authentic future!” I still design regularly but teaching is a completely different discipline. I continue designing because I love it. And it keeps me relevant. I will try and inspire students to dream and fly. To me that is magical, when a student appreciates my experience, and embraces that. I am officially a professor, but first and foremost I am a creative designer. I’m still growing into this role and learning every day.
Mitchells casual professional look that can be transitioned from the classroom to social events in a flash.
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Photographer Evan McCormick is kindly pitching...HIS STORY ON PHOTOGRAPHY I grew up in Edgewater, Maryland right along the Chesapeake bay. Growing up on the water was a huge part of my life. The art community in Edgewater was surprisingly great which made it easy to get into art myself. I started photography because when I was growing up my older sister Olivia always had a camera with her. She was constantly filming and taking pictures of my older brother and I as we would skate or just goof around the house. So it’s no surprise that shortly after I wanted a camera of my own. But I got really into film photography because of my older brother. He was into film photography first and he would come home smelling like the chemicals from the darkroom,
and as his little brother, I always wanted to do what he was doing. I was fortunate enough that my high school had its own darkroom and that’s when the wheels started to really turn. I have always loved to travel and document where I have been, so landscape and documentary photography has always been a huge passion of mine. But lately, I have been trying to broaden my horizons and get more into portrait because I like the experience of collaborating with people. I love the idea that people can look at my photos in years to come and get a sense of what that experience was like. In the end photography to me is always for the memories and I cannot wait to look back at all the photographs for myself in years to come.
Comfort and style are key when you’re on the go with camera equipment like Evan McCormick. Wearing a Vintage Levi Jacket layered with a thrasher hoodie.
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KINDLY PITCHING FROM SAVANNAH
Straightforward artist Tayler Ayers is kindly pitching...THE MEANING TO HIS APPROACH. I am from a small town in Georgia called Carrolton and I’m twenty-five years old. I originally came to Savannah College of Art and Design to study product design but then I discovered Fibers and decided that was the route for me. I am a visual artist by trade and I would say that 99.99% of my work falls into that category. I operate in the DIY/gutter art approach world. I create work that is promoting conversations through blunt messages but presented in a pleasing manner. The duality of my work is that I have an abrasive
message in it while also promoting love at all cost and in response to everything. An artist that inspires me is Wes Lang his work is simple graphics but complex in commentary. His usage of western themes such as snakes, lightning bolts, skulls, and the usage of old blues artist hints at the morality of our existence and that our time is limited and it is vital that we spend that time being who we are and making what we aspire to make. In five years I hope to see me working for myself. Freedom to create and travel as I please is my motivation.
Unapologetic artist Tayler wearing as a statement the American Flag showing us yet again his bold character.
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IMAGE
Fashion designer Ruben Alejandro Salazar is kindly pitching‌HIS SENIOR FASHION DESIGN COLLECTION. I am a senior fashion design student at the Savannah College of Art and Design. For my pinnacle senior collection, I was inspired by the desecration of the old to make way for the new. I am calling my collection Punk Porcelain, inspired by the punk trend of breaking porcelain to make new pieces, covering beautiful old porcelain in curse words, or just straight up drawing over it. My designs feature curse words printed or vinyl transferred on the fabric. I am ripping apart and repurposing vintage clothing and suits. am merging the vintage scraps with my own garments to create something totally new. I am adding some playful touches, like adding a pop of color in the cuffs or making flies into pockets.
My collection is technically womenswear inspired by menswear, but at its core it is unisex. The type of person who would wear these clothes needs to have attitude and confidence in order to wear all this fuckery on themselves. They need to be unafraid to offend people because of my collection in entirely unapologetic.
Reuben is a menswear designer who designs for himself as well as others featured here in one of his own designs.
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FANTASTIC MAN
Layerd designer jewelry. Photography by Andrew Gabay and styling by Nicole Betances with an article by Julia Riley.
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MANCCESORIES (64)
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MAN-CCESORIES Stackable rings in different styles and hues accentuated by delicate bracelets. Rings ZIA JEWELRY, Bracelets JAMES ALLEN Right: Golden Jewel Tones. Rings ZIA JEWELRY Necklace BVLGARI
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FANTASTIC MAN More is more. Rings, bracelets, earrings and scarves, don’t be afraid to use them all. A single earring is unconventional and instantly edgy. Rings ZIA JEWELRY Bracelets JAMES ALLEN Scarf BROOKS BROTHERS
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MAN-CCESORIES
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FANTASTIC MAN Gender barriers are continuing to break in the fashion industry. Men are being catered to more specifically in the beauty and accessories realm like never before. Accessories for men are moving beyond watches and cufflings and into statement earrings, rings, necklaces, and bracelets. This look will be seen in layers of jewels or as statement pieces with an everyday look. In the age of inclusivity, brands are marketing more to Get Z. Gen Z Is not afraid to break gender barriers and wear whatever they feel express themselves. Gen Z is the largest consumer group on the planet and is also the most diverse in the way they think and express themselves. Brands stepping up their men’s accessory line is a smart move to attract this forward-thinking group of consumers. The jewelry trend has been developing for a few years now ever since the rise of interest in men’s wear fashion weeks. Instagram and Gen Z have also had a huge influence on the trend. Men are becoming more accustomed to seeing famous actors sporting this trend and musicians such as Jaden Smith and John Mayer. In the age of digital dating, more style selfies from men are being posted and overall, they are looking to be more fashion-forward, and again, are no longer afraid of being ridiculed for appearing too “feminine.” “Global sales of men’s luxury fine jewelry reached $5.3 billion in 2017, up from $4.3 billion in 2012, an increase of 22 percent, according to Euromonitor International, a market research company. That may not seem like much when compared with the $31.9 billion sales in the women’s sector in 2017 — but the men’s growth has been steady.” (NY TIMES). By the year 20/21, these statistics will skyrocket and jewelry designed for men will take up a large portion of the market. Chains have been the most popular
category, followed by necklaces and rings. For those not as baring to wear large Gucci inspired statement pieces. Conservative men can look for jewelry on leather or black chains, with manly-approved charms featuring skulls, crosses, and black studs. These pieces stay masculine while also being on trend. Aside from jewelry, scarves are also a must-have for the upcoming season. Silk scarves especially add a fun flair to any outfit. Find ones featuring baroque patterns in muted and bright tones. Scarves are versatile in the way that you can style them, making them multi-functional and a staple to anyone’s wardrobe. Take a classic approach by fastening it around your neck. Either wrap it around once and tuck under or tie it in front with a small knot. Scarves are also to be used as a way to accessorize bags and briefcases. Use the silk scarf as a hair accessory too, a great way to draw attention to your man-bun.
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FANTASTIC MAN
Let the jewels be the focal point by pairing with white Turtle Neck ZARA Earrings BVLGARI Rings ZIA JEWELRY Right Metallics combined with jewel tones. Rings ZIA JEWELRY Bracelets JAMES ALLEN
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MAN-CCESORIES
MAN-CCESORIES Styling assistance by Francie Hutcheson. Models: Will Garner and Luke Eckl. Casting by Francie Hutcheson. (72)
FANTASTIC MAN
The Sneaker Hype. Photgraphed by Andrew Gabay and styling by Francie Hutcheson.
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BEYOND ATHLEISURE
The dad shoe is officially equipped with technology. Featuring lightup Nike Air Max 97 Premiums. Accent the shoe with contrasting linen and denim trousers and any color sock your fit requires.
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FANTASTIC MAN
The chunky style is contrasted with the organic lines of the sneaker. Don’t be afraid to get your white laces dirty.
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BEYOND ATHLEISURE
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FANTASTIC MAN From the explosion of athleisure came with the growth of the sneaker industry. The hype for sneakers from Yeezy to Balenciaga has sky rocked to the point of sites such as Stock X providing you with the tools to trade sneakers like stocks. So where is this trend headed? Consumers have shifted from wanting more to wanting better. Expect high quality sneakers that are equally functionable to long term use. Shoes that “stand the test of time” will overturn the fast fashion mentality of wanting every new shoe that drops. High tech sneakers will also emerge with vengeance into the market. The dedicated athlete will always care about the functionality of their shoes. I believe that there will be a new take on reflectors. Instead of the safety focused “see me” reflectors, expect them
throughout the runway, but they will be the must-have shoe in the upcoming years, mainly because of the comfort they provide which is essential in this era of athleisure. The design will be focused more on construction in the upcoming seasons. A softer look and feel will make them ideal for the comfort seeking customer to go from home to the streets. Expect to see these in both neutrals and bright hues. The chunky dad shoe also will remain relevant in the coming years, exciting to some, dreadful to others. However, we are moving away from the classic all white shoe and transitioning into seeing much more color and pattern in the chunky sneaker. Think patch work, technical features such as zippers and attachable pieces. Colored animal print will also be wildly popular. Laces are a
Text by JULIA RILEY. Photography by ANDREW GABAY to turn into light up shoes for adults. These light up accent will make you stand out of the crowd and demand attention from day to night. Digital printed shoes will also be introduced. Digital printing introduces the use of printing a scene from a movie or an intergalactic image onto clothing, this will particularly be seen in the sneaker industry, Hi-Top shoes were introduced by Nike with their infamous Air Jordan’s which have evolved over the years. Virgil Abloh, Travis Scott, and Comme des Garcons have reinvented the basketball hi-tops. A futuristic feel will come out of the need for self-expression. New materials will be introduced to combine technology with lace-covers and straps to create a new generation of basketball shoes. Sock shoes have been seen in spurts
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way to have fun with your sneaker. “Accessorizing” sneakers will take place with out of the box laces. Neon colors and prints will add a personalized touch to your designer shoe.
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Black out sneakers presented by RAF SIMONS.
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BEYOND ATHLEISURE
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BEYOND ATHLEISURE Models: Roy Ebank, Will Garner, Lucke Eckl. Casting by Francie Hutcheson. (86)
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NEON NIGHTS
Insp Kong (87)
Location: Mong Kok, Hong Kong Camera: Bronica ETRS Film: Ilford HP5
pired by the world famous neon lights of Hong g. Photography by EVAN MCCORMICK. (88)
FANTASTIC MAN
The government in Hong Kong is slowly starting to take them all down, so I wanted to document the signs in their environment before they are gone. It’s crazy to think in a few years they could all be gone and I just don’t think the city will be the same without them.
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NEON LIGHTS
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NEON LIGHTS
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NEON LIGHTS
My favorite photo of the series is the black and white silhouette figure in between the busses. I like it because of the moment I was able to capture and how he is perfectly framed between the busses with the reflection on the bus.
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FANTASTIC MAN
Camera: Bronica ETRS Film: Ektar 100
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NEON LIGHTS
I love the idea that people can look at my photos in years to come and get a sense of what that experience was like. In the end photography to me is always for the memories and I cannot wait to look back at all the photographs for myself in years to come.
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FANTASTIC MAN
Together
with DUGALD FELTON (97)
DUGALD FELTON
An Aussie native studying Fashion Marketing and Management at The Savannah College of Art and Design. However, he is also an entrepreneur and a model.
(100) Dugald Felton is an Aussie native studying Fashion Marketing and Management at The Savannah College of Art and Design. However, he is also an entrepreneur and a model. When walking down Chapel Street in Melbourne, Australia, Dugald was approached by IMG Models. The process was extremely brisk, after being on the site for only four hours he was picked up by Burberry, at the time he was only sixteen years old. Dugald then went on to work for Abercrombie and Calvin Klein. Although he excelled at his modeling career, he discovered it was not the realm for him. He states that the industry is “something he would never press onto anyone else..... I didn’t really find modeling fashion I felt I was there as a prop.” Especially today with the spotlight being on the ethics of the entertainment industry we
ling to China to source materials and take his business out of his home. “It sold out within eight months.” He began selling in boutiques across London and France. His new collection will be out next Summer in Australia for those interested in checking it out. Felton’s brand D3 describes its aesthetic as relaxed weekend gear with a twist. Attention to detail, comfort, and the quality is important to Felton, he stated that a major gap in the men’s fashion industry is in regard to quality. For example, a Gucci t-shirt can cost hundreds of dollars for terrible quality fabric that falls apart, but you can get an amazing high-quality t shirt from Target for twenty dollars. Felton believes that this is his mission with his brand, and he is making it happen. When it comes to SCAD, Dugald wanted to get an education in fash-
Text by JULIA RILEY, photography by ANDREW GABAY can only imagine what a sixteenyear-old boy was exposed too when working with such famous labels. “The drugs and the way that they treat you, it just was pretty hard to consume.” He described his time with Burberry as “easy” and “precise” whereas Abercrombie was more about fluid movements and he felt awkward trying to appear sexy. Felton then explains how he was starting his own fashion label at the time called D3, again, at the young age of sixteen. When asked what his inspiration for the brand was he stated that it was his mom not letting him wear sweatpants out of the house that gave him the motivation to create a sweat pant that she would let him wear outside. He produced a pair of linen pants that quickly sparked interest amongst his friend group. Felton decided to take the next crucial step by trave-
ion because he can produce clothing but needed assistance in the business aspect, which he finds is what he is lacking the most knowledge in because the only form of marketing he is doing at the moment is mainly from word of mouth and some Australian celebrity influence. Fashion was a stretch from his original plan of going to school for mathematical engineering where he was picked up by Ivy Leagues such as Harvard. Although he had the smarts to go far in a career in mathematics, he admirably chose to go with his passion instead. After graduation, Felton plans to continue on D3 and expand into womenswear with more variety in color and styles.
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PATCHWORK
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PATCHWORK
The return to worn in, worn down, and patched up. Photographed by CAMERON COX. Styled by FRANCIE HUTCHESON with an article by MACKENZIE STRICKLAND.
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FANTASTIC MAN
Ryan wears a split floral and denim outfit with rugged cowboy boots from his own closet. Right The quirky patchwork design, featuring fabric buttons and ruffle trim, is courtesy of GORDON LANE.
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PATCHWORK
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Daniel’s jacket BODE, featured suede patches and granny chic embroidered trim. Right Ryan uses a vintage quilt as a wrap over a knit tank. Daniel keeps things monochromatic in a BODE jackets and light was denim jeans from his own closet.
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PATCHWORK
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FANTASTIC MAN
Patchworked details work best with coordinating basics. This vintage quilt and BODE jacket look best with classic denim jeans
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PATCHWORK
In the background, Ryan’s RALPH LAUREN knit American flag tank is on display.
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PATCHWORK Styling assistance by Nicole Betances. Designs by Gordon Lane. Models: Daniel Claypoole and Ryan Smith. Casting by Francie Hutcheson. (109)
PATCHWORK
For this Fall season we are seeing a return to authenticity. Homemade, self embellished pieces add a personalized touch that you just can’t get in an off the rack piece. Patchwork is a trend that has some staying power due to its lived in feel and versatility in wear. Cobbled together denim, jackets, or shirts work equally as well as a one off statement maker, or a whole outfit. When we saw this two piece denim and floral mashup by (Gordon Lane) we knew we had to feature it since the look combines two trends of the moment, patchwork and gender bending fashion. This pieced together blue tonal patchwork jacket looks effortlessly cool when paired with denim and a simple tee. Fashion is all about wearing what feels right to you. We have always advocated for our readers to push the
Text by MACKENZIE STRICKLAND, photography by CAMERON COX envelope when it comes to styling. If it seems out of the box to wear granny’s homemade quilt as a wrap, well that’s because it is. But that’s precisely why we say do it. It’s personal and just weird enough to be cool. We kept our look distinctly Americana with a knit Ralph Lauren tank and acid wash denim. The cool thing about patchwork is that you can make any piece distinctly your own. Instead of tossing those worn out jeans with the rip on the side, sew a patch on top and keep them in circulation. In an age of fast fashion it can be hard to remember that there once was a time when people repaired their clothing instead of tossing at the first sign of wear. Embracing the mend is better for the environment and better for your wallet, and it doesn’t hurt that it can look pretty cool too.
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FANTASTIC MAN
EAST MEE with John WU (111)
JOHN WU
ETS WEST
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JOHN WU
Here, JOHN dons a black subtly stripe button down with white contrast stitching. He humbly admitted it was his own design to the delight of the crew.
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FANTASTIC MAN
JOHN WU, a Chinese native and SCAD Fashion Design senior, discusses his pinnacle collection, his multi-cultural inspirations, and where he sees himself in the future.
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JOHN WU When I met John Wu, a senior fashion design major at the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD), for the first time I immediately was struck by the calm, humble presence he possesses. The youngest of three sisters and the son of textile manufacture, John’s introduction to the world of fashion happened early on in life. “I have three sisters. They taught me how to dress, so I was always really interested in fashion.” John recalled. “My first time making garments was at 18, just for fun. My mom actually taught me how to sew. I was really bad at it [at first]. “My dad runs a textile company. They make the fabrics from threads to fabric. My dad’s company is the first step in fashion, making fabrics. For me, I am interested in the last step of fashion, making garments.”
na. [For example] a textured wall gave my fabric manipulation inspiration. For the Western, I used suiting. In the West, in cities like Washington and New York, a lot of people are wearing suits, so I combined these two.” John spent his high school years at a boarding school in Boston. The hub of the city no doubt shaped his perception of Western culture. The fast-paced, workaholic mindset of many Americans, especially metropolitan Americans, is reflected in John’s use of suiting in his collection. His pieces playfully deconstruct and layer the workwear staples Americans are known to wear. Instead of being off-put by the difference in cultures, John has embraced the West, at least for now. “I stayed in Boston for three years for high school. I left home at the
Text by MACKENZIE STRICKLAND, photography by EVAN MCCORMICK John is from Zhejiang, an eastern coastal region of China. Though one of the smallest provinces of China, it is also one of the most densely populated and affluent. It has been a cultural hub for centuries. Zhejiang is rich with history in a way that makes “historic” Savannah feel brand new. The region was home to Neolithic cultures thousands of years ago, and since then has seen the rise and fall of countless dynasties. The region is rich in historical sites and temples, notable among them are the Língyǐn Temple, a Buddhist temple built in 326 AD, and Jìngcí Temple, originally built in 954 AD and still active today. “I wanted to create a collection that combines the Western and Eastern cultures,” John stated. “For the Eastern, from my country, I took the textures of the historical villages of Chi-
age of 16. I learned English in high school, I learned my first year. I only hung out with my Chinese friends at first because I didn’t know English,” he remarked. “I want to go to New York or Boston, some kind of city, but if I can’t find a job [in America] I will go back to Shanghai or Hong Kong to work in fashion. I would prefer to stay here for a couple of years but eventually, go back to China.” He could easily be boastful or arrogant. John is ridiculously talented. His senior collection is an artful reflection of himself and the different cultures that have shaped him as an artist, but like most of his work is rooted in his Chinese heritage. “[Back home] influences a lot of my work. And also, the philosophy of Taoism and tai chi, black and white, light and heavy, man and woman.
+++ THE BRAND NEW ENDING +++ THE BRAND NEW ENDING +++ THE BRAND NEW ENDING +++ THE BRAND NEW
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I [made my clothes] for both man and woman. [Some of the pieces] are symmetrical [to represent] half man and half woman.” Looking at his work I was struck by how effectively he was able to meld all of these different sources of inspiration into one garment. The use of suit is obvious, the influence of Taoism is seen in the dual nature of his pieces. They are all unisex, and many are split in the middle to create two harmonious but differing looks. His plaid set is his strongest example of this duality. One side is neatly tailored, layered, and masculine, while the other is off the shoulder, lace-embellished, and distinctly feminine. In a time of gender-bending fashion, John hits a sophisticated note that is refreshing. All too often unisex clothing either looks like female clothes on men or shapeless and boring basic pieces without many styles. John’s pieces would actually suit either gender equally well, while still remaining stylish and interesting to look at. When asked about who his target customer is, what type of person would wear his clothes, John initially responds with a vague, overarching reply. “I think my customer could be either a woman or a man, 20, 30, 40, all could wear my clothes,” he starts, but then calmly states, “I do not choose customers, they chose me.” It is a mindset shared by many great artists and creators. They simply create and allow others to enjoy without bogging themselves down in demographics, psychographics, and all those other data points marketers love. John’s ultimate career goals suit a breezy, art first mindset. “After graduating I definitely want to find a job in a big city like New York or Boston,” he stated. “For the first couple of years, I want to work for somebody. Alexander Wang is my favorite designer, along with Raf Simons.
But after two to three years I want to have my own brand. That’s the goal.” John Wu is a reflection of the unique times we live in. Our world today is one that seeks to celebrate unique cultural experiences and pushes the boundaries of gendered fashion. John’s work hits on the zeitgeist of the time in a way that many artists strive for but can never quite reach. I for one, have no doubt that the fashion house of John Wu will come to fruition. I look forward to seeing him grow as a designer. I asked him to remember this team, who gave him his first cover story when he becomes famous one day. In typical John style, he grinned and in a playful yet serious manner said, “of course.”
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Here John dons a tan tee from his own closet, with his sketches on the table in front of him, and his own designs on mannequins in the background.
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To the left is a unisex jacket from John’s senior collection. Here, John fiddles with a white button down top he designed, sewed, and hand embellished.
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John can’t help but grin in between two looks from his collection. On the left, a closeup of his unique unisex plaid two piece design.
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Film by Evan McCormick. Designs by John Wu.
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Your go to classics, reimagined. Photography by ANDREW GABAY and styling by NICOLE BETANCES.
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RETHINKING THE CLASSIC TWO PIECE SUIT
Luke leans back in his own two piece ZARA suit, a worn in pair of ALLEN EDMOND boots, and a DOLCE & GABBANA black ribbed turtleneck.
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Roy keeps it casual in a light blue linen blend BRIONI suit, classic black leather LOUIS VUITTON loafers, and a striped TOMMY HILFIGER turtleneck.
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Luke swaps his suit jacket for a RALPH LAUREN wool jacket, belted with a vintage belt also by RALPH LAUREN, worn over a GUCCI solid turtleneck, PRADA tailored pants, the same beat up ALLEN EDMOND leather boots.
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Roy kept his BRIONI suit pants, but ditched the jacket for a RALPH LAUREN three quarter cashmere zip pullover. We caught him throwing on a TOM FORD basic black jacket.
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FANTASTIC MAN The two-piece suit is perhaps the most classic combo in the entirety of modern men’s dressing. The fabrics and colors may change from season to season, but you are guaranteed to see some iteration of the two-piece suit at most every menswear show. The recent era of men’s dress has leaned towards casual and oversized more than fitted and formal. The mixing of casual and comfortable with buttoned-down and professional creates an interesting air of careless cool. It’s a look that screams put together and stylish without even a hint of trying too hard. The easiest way to modernize your cool weather workwear is to ditch the button down. Pair your two-piece with a knit turtleneck instead. The Hermès Fall 2019 runway gave us half a dozen different iterations of this combo.
counseling you to totally nix your suit jackets and sports coats, it can be interesting to switch things up every now and then. The current look is oversized so don’t be afraid to grab a trench with some bulk to it. Be careful not to let things get frumpy. Tailored and oversized are not opposing concepts. Just like a regular suit jacket, it is important to ensure a proper fit across the shoulders when picking a trench coat. The proper fit should keep you looking good, but you can always add a leather belt around the natural waist to add some extra polish. If you want a little of both, the turtleneck and the trench, then go for it. Celine Fall 2019 showed us that the more the merrier when it comes to these classic pieces. Their runways were all about layering, and we definitely took notes.
Text by MACKENZIE STRICKLAND, photography by ANDREW GABAY
Whether you keep things simple with a solid turtleneck in a complementary color to your suit or use the turtleneck to introduce an interesting print a la Hermès, you really can’t mess this one up. Just be sure to keep your footwear on the traditional side. A polish leather shoe keeps you looking pulled together and professional. Adding sneakers to the already casualized look just looks frumpy. Another way to switch up the twopiece is to rethink the jacket. Maybe this is cheating, but getting rid of the traditional jacket in favor of a trench coat feels very of the moment. While not the traditional twopiece you may know, a solid trench and suit pant combo just work. Saying goodbye to the traditional jacket is far more practical for wintery climates, and while we aren’t
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This is not the time to go crazy mixing bright hues and loud prints. A flecked grey wool coat over a solid jacket and plaid turtleneck hit just the right note.
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RETHINKING THE TWO PIECE CLASSIC SUIT Styling assistance by Francie Hutcheson. Models: Roy Ebank, Will Garner and Luke Eckl. Casting by Francie Hutcheson. (140)
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Professional athletic wear COX, styling by NICOLE BE (141)
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Hoodie Y-3 Jacket ADIDAS Short ADIDAS Shades CELINE
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Bomber Jacket RAG&BONE Vest BROOKS BROTHERS Suede Botton Down OUR LEGACY Joggers YEEZY Shoes BALENCIAGA
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Jumpuist CARHARTT Jacket OFF WHITE Sneakers NIKE
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ATHLEISURE Styling assistance by Francie Hutcheson. Models: Jermaine Jones, Brandon Thomposon, Daniel Claypoole. Casting by Francie Hutcheson.
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Trips to New York are required to be able to sport new outerwear trends. Puffers, parkas and bombers are being reinvented and are making the cold fashionable. Introducing the “Duvet Coat” a down filled, long lined extension of the puffer. Puffer by ASHLEY SANCHEZ.
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Outerwear for the outdoors. Photography by LANCE LANGEL, styling by Nicole Betances. (154)
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Robert sitting on a ledge sporting his duvet coat from ASHLEY SANCHEZ Beanie CARHARTT Pants RAG & BONE Shoes CONVERSE
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Brandon popping the collar on his BEDFORD corduroy jacket. Layered with a quarter zip from J CREW.
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Jacket VINTAGE OBERMEYER
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FANTASTIC MAN New Yorkers can rejoice because cold weather is officially in style. New takes on outerwear will make you eager for winter. The silhouette of jackets will be slightly shorter than normal, hitting either the waist or the hip, think bomber length with a variety of textures and materials. The puffer style volume will only get bigger. The more volume, the more of a fashion-forward feel you will get. The bomber will remain a favorite wardrobe staple, ranging from edgy to sporty and we will also see a growth of long-line puffers, which will lead into the birth of the “duvet coat.” The down-filled coats are an extreme take on the puffer which will be essential for those who are in need of full-body coverage in the frigid winter climates. As far as
the upcoming season. The parka is a classic and is ideal for layering. These parkas will not be the original parka that comes to mind though, and instead, they will feature long-line cuts with pocket details with adjustable waists. Outerwear should be used as a simple way to pop some color into your look. Baroque prints and bright hues will add contrast to any solid colors worn underneath. The ninety’s aesthetic will come through with the bright colored pieces to create stand-out, unique items. The neon bright fabrics will be toned down with dark details, such as black chunky zippers and technical tapes. Drawstrings will also be used in dark solid colors to de-intensify the hues of the jackets. The main takeaway of the new
Text by JULIA RILEY, photography by LANCE LANGEL materials, fuzzy “teddy” material will continue to be used in outerwear styles. Sherpas and shearlings will also make use of this trend. God is in the details, especially when it comes to outerwear. Pockets and zippers will be the focal point of jackets. More specifically, technical pockets and attention-grabbing zippers. These features add a sporty feel to even the most classic shapes. Tailoring will remain classic, but the details are what makes the piece to a new innovative level. Collars will also take center stage. Wide collars will be added to grab attention and provide a modern image. The re-introduction of snap-fastening collars and simple cuffs will allow for diverse styling. Parkas will be the leading player in outerwear in
new outerwear trend is to make a statement with volume and color. Parkas and technical fabrics will be a necessity and chunky zipper and pocket details will be necessary to keep the look fashion-forward. However, light colors will not be disregarded, and you can continue to mix in classic monotone and pastel hues with the bright and patterned textures.
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Robert popping the collar on his VINTAGE NIKE jacket.
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THE EXTERIOR ERA Styling assistance by Francie Hutcheson. Puffer by Ashley Sanchez. Models: Robert Matuluko and Brandon Thompson. Casting by Francie Hutcheson. (165)
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