KNITmuch | Issue 10

KNITmuch lacy & plaid cowls·hats·bathmat·baby blanket

...to K, is to

Issue 10

KNITTING with

Bamboo Pop Rozetti Alaska Pomp - a- doodle Loop -it Super Saver pooling fail isle chunky ombre

KN IT STITC H PAT TE RNS

* * * * *

fleck stitch butterfly stitch twisted stitches flared cables bi-directional herringbone stitch

TESTING BAMBOO POP in 6 STITCH PATTERNS TIPS for KNITTING

WITH

FLUFFY YARN

KNITmuch ...to K, is to

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ART DIRECTOR Carla A. Canonico Carla@KNITmuch.com ADVERTISING SALES John De Fusco John@KNITmuch.com PUBLISHER A Needle Pulling Thread PHOTOGRAPHERS Carla A. Canonico, John De Fusco, Contributors BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS Cynthia MacDougall cgknitters.ca Michelle Nussey knitmuch.com/author/km_michelle/ Charles Voth charlesvothdesigns.ca Cindy O'Malley cindooknits.blogspot.com GRAPHIC DESIGN Carla A. Canonico Carla@KNITmuch.com Sondra Armas Sondra@KNITmuch.com SOCIAL MEDIA and WEB Sondra Armas Alejandro Araujo WEBSITE / BLOG : KNITmuch.com Follow us on Pinterest: KNITmuch Like us on Facebook : KNITmuch Follow us on Twitter : @KNITmuchmag WHERE TO GET YOUR COPY KNITmuch is a quarterly eMagazine published by A Needle Pulling Thread. It is available free for personal use online at KNITmuch.com.

A limited number of printed copies of KNITmuch are available for purchase at select yarn shops and specialty stores. Ask for it at your local shop. KNITmuch is not available by subscription.

YARN SHOPS If you are interested in carrying KNITmuch in your store, please email John@KNITmuch.com.

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KNITmuch | issue 10

EDITORIAL Bloggers, designers and other contributors who would like to be considered for future issues please email Carla@KNITmuch.com with a brief description of your work and your proposed project. ©2020 KNITmuch. All rights reserved. Issue 10.

ISSN 2368-5913.

No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are for private, non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted material owned by their respective creators or owners.

KNITmuch

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Bamboo Pop makes twisting eyelets lace pattern shine The Waffle Stitch using Bamboo Pop yarn Bamboo Pop is like finding the perfect frame for a piece of knitted art Knitting with Bamboo Pop yarn for a friend Effortless Fern Grotto lace swatch knitted in Bamboo Pop Knitting with Alaska yarn – soft and airy 1 trick for easy knitting when knitting with fluffy yarn Knitting with Alaska The Choux Cowl Knitting a matching plaid hat for the Choux Cowl In Stormy Alaska, leftover yarn is a knitted lacy cowl to the rescue Bi-directional herringbone stitch knitted in Dreamy Stripes Fleck stitch knitted in Super Saver Pooling Flared Diamonds knit in Super Saver Fair Isle Twisted stitches and lace knit in Super Saver Chunky Butterfly Baby Blanket knit in Super Saver Ombre Learn to knit with Loop-it Introducing knitting needles to Loop-it yarn Giggle knitting with Loop-it leads to an adorable baby blanket Pomp-a-Doodle – yarn without pomp & circumstance Pomp-a-Doodle and Loop-it together make the best bathmat!

c o n t e n t s KNITmuch | issue 10

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Download the KNITmuch App!

Includes the Premier issue and the latest issue FREE for a limited time only!

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KNITmuch | issue 10

editor's

letter

I hope you have been able to acclimatize to your ‘new-normal’ lifestyle under the restrictions of Covid-19. This year will be a year that will not only make history, but a year that will be remembered for forcibly giving us the opportunity to question our way-of-life, career choices and relationships. with so much to digest, process

it behaves in various stitch

and sort! One of the benefits

patterns. The very soft Alaska

of knitting I count on is the

yarn is a fluff y yarn highlighted

opportunity for reflection, even

in two very different cowls and

on a very busy schedule. If I

a hat using easy color work and

don't have a chance to knit on

lace work patterns. Using four

any given day (heaven forbid)

yarns of the Super Saver family

it's like not having had the

we play with four extraordinary

chance to process the events of

knitted stitch patterns you'll

my day.

want to consider using in your next knitting projects.

I hope you have been able to play with yarn and needles

The issue closes on a crafty

daily! It's so good for you.

note knitting a bath set using Red Heart Loop-it and Pomp-a-

In this issue, I offer you ways to

Doodle yarns.

unwind with yarny thoughts of how the featured yarns work

Thank you for visiting

up in several projects. Bamboo

KNITmuch! Together we can

Pop, perfect for spring and

focus on keeping a steady heart

summer projects, and babies,

and a positive outlook.

is highlighted to show how

Cheerfully,

Share the love of knitting. Own the obsession.

These are tumultuous times,

I hope this letter finds you in good health.

KNITmuch | issue 10

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Bamboo Pop makes twisting eyelets lace pattern shine The Clematis Cowl knit in Bamboo Pop

Bamboo Pop has been featured on KNITmuch before, Charles gave a very thorough overview of this yarn in Knitting with bamboo-cotton yarn. And there are more articles that will stem from these posts under KNITmuch Bamboo pop yarn.

As this is my first time working with Bamboo Pop, I’ll scatter my thoughts throughout this feature.

I started by knitting a pattern called the Clematis Cowl. It’s originally written for a larger yarn, so if you like huge cowls with more drape, you’ll want to add more stitches.

I wanted to see the differences in the pattern by simply changing the yarn and nothing else. I wasn’t surprised that the pattern looks beautiful, Bamboo Pop really shows off stitch patterns in a clean and clear way. The stitch used here almost looks like a bamboo stitch (bamboo yarn, bamboo stitch, the coincidence is killing me) except it has yarn overs. It creates a fun looking lace stitch. I alternated between two solid colors to give it a little more depth and I think it turned out really well.

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Michelle Nguyen The recommended needle size is US Size 4 [3.5mm] which makes a good fabric. I found myself using a looser gauge because while this yarn does have bamboo, it also has cotton which does not stretch.

When knitting with cotton it’s best not to use a tight gauge or it will begin to hurt your hands. It’s something to pay attention to if you’re a naturally tight knitter. The Clematis Cowl did have stretch when it was finished. Through the looser gauge and the mixture of cotton and bamboo I could stretch the cowl over my head to put it on. As I mentioned before the circumference was not as large as the pattern. It was large enough to put around my neck twice and have it close. If you’re wearing this cowl inside of a coat to keep cold drafts off your neck it will be perfect.

First knitted garment with Bamboo Pop was a huge success. The Clematis Cowl looks great in this yarn, the work you put into the stitches won’t go unnoticed with this pairing. The pattern is easy to memorize but keeps you engaged so you don’t fall asleep while knitting it. And that’s always a good thing.

The Clematis Cowl written for Classic Shades Sequins Lite but could be knit up beautifully in Bamboo Pop. The colors featured here are Grape and Royal.

Photos by Michelle Nguyen

The Waffle Stitch using Bamboo Pop yarn Bamboo Pop in the color Royal worked with a Waffle stitch

Since the Clematis Cowl stitch worked out so well decided to try out other stitches. Bamboo Pop really is the perfect yarn for stitch work. The cotton bamboo blend will hold its structure well.

You won’t have to worry about the stitch getting distorted with blocking and age.

One of the stitches I decided to test out was a Waffle Stitch. It consists of four rows repeated.

Two rows of stockinette stitch and two rows of K2P2 ribbing. This creates a fabric with a dimpled look like thermal underwear.

It’s a stitch that doesn’t take a lot of mental bandwidth but creates a little bit of interest in your knitting. It also simply looks warm.

The texture of the fabric has been associated with warm base layers, hiking in the winter, or layering up to go pick out a Christmas tree.

Since this is a subtle stitch I thought Bamboo Pop would present it really well.

Bamboo Pop with a stockinette stitch swatch in the color Fairy Tale

Bamboo Pop in the color Grape and Turquoise

The attractiveness of the stitch is in the hills and valleys of the pattern. While Bamboo Pop doesn’t have the springiness of other yarns because of the cotton, it’s great for a more subtle, less textured look to the stitches. If the garment you’re making is using a variegated yarn this stitches would add texture while not overpowering the garment.

Whereas if you’re one or two shy of four stitches, it won’t affect your final garment all the much.

The best stitches are those that don’t take a lot of mental bandwidth to knit, but look beautiful nonetheless. This one can be added into just about any garment, it only takes a multiple of four stitches which is a small amount. It’s much more difficult to fit in something that requires a multiple of 11 stitches.

Adding in those extra stitches can equal inches on a final product.

If you’re looking for a more delicate look to a rib stitch Bamboo Pop will work very well. The stitches are much more relaxed because of the fiber composition and won’t overpower your pattern. Check out the variegated colors of Bamboo Pop and consider this stitch if you’ve fallen in love with any of its variegated colorways.

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Bamboo Pop is like finding the perfect frame for a piece of knitted art I went over the waffle stitch and how it’s a more subtle stitch knit up in Bamboo Pop yarn. I’ll talk about a stitch that Bamboo Pop does really well, lace! The Ocean Lace stitch from Melissa Leapman’s book The Knit Stitch Pattern Handbook.

I still cannot believe how well Bamboo Pop shows off lace stitches. When knitting a garment in a lace stitch you really want the focus to be on the stitches.

Bamboo Pop is like finding the perfect frame for a piece of art.

At a knitting conference, yes they exist, I took a class on Japanese lace knitting. It was fascinating because it would take the simplest stitches, put them together, and make them into one cohesive garment. It looked like the best possible way to make baby blankets, or afghans.

Any large flat piece of knitting that you need to add interest to.

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Ocean lace stitch in the color Turquoise. It really reminds me of the ocean!

I was apprehensive about it getting really complicated and becoming a slow and dreaded chore to knit. However, all the stitches were easy to execute and memorize. My eyes were opened to how amazing lace can be and how simple you can make it!

Since I did pay for this book and I highly doubt the author would thank me for giving away the secret sauce of this stitch I’ll suggest you grab the book from a bookstore or your local library.

What I can tell you is the lace pattern is only one row repeated.

The pattern has a total of 8 rows, but the actual lace is the same every time. The lace is fairly simple, made of yarn overs and SSK or K2TOG. With Bamboo Pop, you’ll want to be very careful with your K2TOG and SSK. Those two stitches are either left leaning or right leaning. In this yarn, it will be very apparent if you’ve mixed up your right and left.

If you’re looking to make a lace garment I would highly suggest picking up a ‘stitchionary’ to look at the lace stitches. If you’ve never knitted lace and are concerned about starting with a baby blanket try knitting some lace swatches.

After you’re finished you can either rip them out or use them as dish cloths. Cotton is a go-to fiber for dishcloths, and while these might be some particularly luxurious dishcloths, you will definitely know how you like that lace stitch.

The light colors really make lace stand out.

Knitting with Bamboo Pop yarn for a friend We all have those for which we want to knit. Using bamboo yarn, being a relatively new fiber in the yarn world, it’s important to know which fiber is best for the job.

People allergic to wool is a very common problem I’ve run into.

When people are shopping for yarn I hear, “I’m knitting for a friend, but she is allergic to wool”.

Usually these people do not want to use a synthetic fiber or 100% cotton, because it just doesn’t have the same luxurious feel as wool. This is an ideal place for Bamboo Pop yarn. Both cotton and bamboo are hypoallergenic and antimicrobial.

This means, your allergenic friend won’t have a reaction and they won’t have to wash this garment quite as much as if it were made from wool because anti-microbial also means anti-odor. It’s also a good yarn with which to knit baby blankets, especially if you’re talking about summer babies. While we do want to keep these snuggly little bundles warm, we don’t want them to overheat and sit in their own sweat for long.

Bamboo Pop with lots of swatches to show off the beautiful stitch definition.

It also provides UV protection. There’s no other natural fiber that provides UV protection used in textiles today. With summer around the corner, it's important to talk about UV protection. Bamboo Pop yarn give that extra layer of UV protection as the end of a long day at the beach, soccer field, or at the outdoor market.

My last point in favor of Bamboo Pop is the sustainability. Bamboo is harvested without killing the plant; those farming this fiber simply need to wait a few months and it’s ready to be harvested again. If you’re looking to do any knitting to gift for someone worried about the sustainability and environmental friendliness of their gift, look no further than Bamboo Pop.

Cotton and bamboo cut down on any rashes or adverse reaction from being in contact with sensitive skin for any length of time.

The blend of cotton and bamboo gives this yarn a much softer feel than simple cotton. If you’re not able to wear wool and are sick of stiff and crunchy yarn choices this is the one for you.

Bamboo Pop is safe for many different skin types with colors to go along with it.

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Effortless Fern Grotto lace swatch knitted in Bamboo Pop Michelle Nguyen knitmuch.com/author/km_michelle/

We went deep into the benefits of bamboo fiber, but I’ve got to do one more lace stitch with this yarn because it just looks so darn good.

The Fern Grotto Lace stitch is from the same book as I talked about before. I wanted to see a stitch that had a little more elevation than one that was a flat lace stitch. This one looks like it has a cable, but it doesn’t really.

Bamboo Pop can still show the stitch definition to the point of believable faux cables.

My feelings about cables notwithstanding, I really like this stitch. It lends a lot of movement to the garment. Your eyes naturally flow down through the stitches to the bottom of the swatch. It always reminds me of the calming effect of water. If you mixed this lace stitch with a few yarn overs in between the repeats, it would be a beautiful throw.

The shininess of this yarn is part of the reason all the stitches really pop. Even if you look at the garter stitch around the edge of the stitches. The purl bumps are shiny and pronounced while the space between is not. It’s very similar to the concept of contouring in makeup. You have certain features that need to be highlighted to make them stand out more. So any part of the stitch that is raised will be highlighted. The opposite is true as well; any depressed area will be shadowed. It’s like highlighting your cheekbones and bridge of your nose while shadowing the natural hollows.

No matter the stitch, your knitted garment will look amazing with Bamboo Pop. It’s the perfect yarn for baby blankets, throws, shawls, and will work well for just about any garment you want durability and excellent stitch definition.

Bamboo Pop is the perfect yarn for lace stitches

Fern Grotto lace in the color Grape

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Even in the ball you can see the shine.

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Knitting with Alaska yarn – soft and airy Cindy O'Malley

I’ve been exploring Rozetti Yarns Alaska – a light and airy yarn that surrounds you with warmth and softness.

When I was first introduced to Alaska, it softly whispered “touch me”. I was not disappointed, as it is as soft on the hands as it appeared to be. The type of softness that makes you squish it up to your neck, the true test of softness.

Another pleasant surprise is the yardage. A 50g ball contains a generous 246yds [225m], which is what you would typically expect from a 100g ball of light worsted. This speaks to the lightness and airiness of the fiber.

The fluffiness of the yarn gives it an aura, making it difficult for the eyes to focus on an individual strand.

Alaska is comprised of 44% Acrylic, 15% Alpaca, 15% Super Wash Fine Merino, and 26% Polyamide.

Although there is a high synthetic content, the most delicate of the fibers, in this case Alpaca, dictate the laundering requirements. The recommended laundry care is hand wash, lay flat to dry, and no iron.

I’m not what you would call a devoted yarn snob – only a somewhat yarn snob. What’s more important to me than the yarn content is the following: 1) Are the colors pleasing to me, 2) Do I like the feel of the yarn,

Frozen Pond and Stormy colorways in Rozetti Yarns Alaska

3) Do I like knitting with it, and most important of all, 4) Do I like wearing the finished project.

The 8-color palette is equally soft with color names like Icicle, Peach Puff, and Frozen Pond to name a few, that are representative of an Alaskan powder puff.

When I read the label, there were several things about it that surprised me. One of which is the gauge. The yarn is rated as a DK/Light Worsted (3) with a recommended needle size of US 5 [3.75mm] to achieve a gauge of 20 stitches and 26 rows over 4” [10cm]. As a gauge knitter, I would typically expect to achieve this for most yarns with a US 7 [4.5mm].

The fluffiness of the yarn gives it an aura.

Photos by Cindy O'Malley

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Items 1 and 2 have been answered positively for me, and the balance of the feature will focus on items 3 and 4 on my list. I’ll knit some swatches, then proceed with projects for the remainder of the feature.

As Alaska is relatively new, there are only a few patterns designed specifically for this yarn. The Choux Cowl, a free pattern, is one of them. I have elected to make this cowl, along with a hat to match, and a lacy accessory to complement the ensemble.

I chose to use Frozen Pond and Stormy as my project palette as I envisioned wearing the finished projects with my comfy blue jeans.

These are the projects I designed for this feature: a toque, a small lacy cowl, and a larger cowl. They're knitted using Rozetti Yarns Alaska, so soft to the skin and warm.

1 trick for easy knitting when knitting with fluffy yarn

I’m knitting some swatches to measure my gauge and to get a feel for what it’s like to knit with the yarn.

I mentioned that the recommended gauge and needle size surprised me. Rated as a DK/Light Worsted, the recommended needle size is a US5 [3.75mm] for 20 stitches and 26 rows over 4” [10cm]. Being a little skeptical about this, I put it to the test.

I achieved 20 sts and 30 rows over 4'' using a US5 [3.75mm] needle.

Sure enough, my gauge was right on at 20 stitches using a US5 [3.75mm] needle, however, my row count was 30 over 4” [10cm], even after blocking. Since most patterns will instruct you to knit until X inches, this should not be a factor.

Use your left thumb to gently pull the knitted fabric down from the left needle. By doing so, you create a clear hole for the right needle to slide through without getting caught in the fluff, or catching an individual ply. This makes for a much smoother knit.

The fluffy aura of the yarn tends to be a little sticky, as most fluffy yarns can be. I used a technique that I often use when a particular yarn is sticky or when the plies separate while knitting.

I’m pleased with the fabric created by the stocking stitch swatch, but curious as to how it will work with patterning. If you’re using a yarn with a lot of texture, variegated, or one that has an aura such as Alaska, it’s important to ensure that a detailed pattern isn’t lost by the yarn characteristics. So I went through my Japanese Stitch Bible and selected a pattern that had yarn movement and lace.

I use my left thumb to gently pull the fabric away from the left needle.

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After blocking the swatch, you can clearly see the pattern definition, although much softer than it would be with a high twist yarn and no aura. A good knitting friend of mine always states that you should never assess a lace pattern without blocking it first. This is good advice and also means that you should always swatch the pattern to ensure the detail comes through before you start knitting the project.

Lace and a traveling pattern swatch with Alaska to see the stitch definition

I’m pleased with the results, and can honestly say that I like knitting with Alaska when I applied the technique described above.

Knitting with Alaska The Choux Cowl I’m starting the Choux Cowl, which is a free pattern, designed specifically for Alaska yarn, I chose to knit my cowl in colors Frozen Pond (light blue) and Stormy (dark blue).

Choux Cowl

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I like wearing long cowls in the winter because you can wrap it around your neck multiple times for warmth in the outdoors, and easily unravel it and let it hang as an accessory when indoors. Quite often I find that an unraveled scarf will slide down and off when dangling, but a long cowl will stay put.

Also, if you forget your hat on a chilly day, you can wear it over your head and then wrap it around your neck to surround you in warmth.

The Choux Cowl is knit as a tube in the round. There are two options for finishing. First, you can sew the ends of the tube together for a fast, simple finish. If you prefer a more professional, seamless look, you can do a crochet provisional cast-on with scrap yarn and graft the ends of the tubes together. For complete pattern instructions, you can download the Choux Cowl pattern.

For this project, I’m using 2 balls of the Main Color (Frozen Pond), 2 balls of the Contrasting Color (Stormy), a US6 [4mm] 24” circular needle, waste yarn and crochet hook for the provisional cast on, and a stitch marker.

Plaid Pattern (multiple of 4 sts) Odd Rounds 1-7: With MC, knit to end.

Even Rounds 2-6: With CC, * k3, sl 1 purlwise wyib; rep from * to end.

Round 8: With MC, knit to end.

This excellent duo for a winter's day outdoors.

Pattern gauge is noted at 20 sts and 32 rows over 4”, however, it’s not really important for this project, but it does affect the overall size. My gauge is 20 sts and 30 rows with a US6 [4mm] needle. The finished size is 50” circumference and 12½” in width.

If you want to make it wider or narrower, cast on a greater or lesser amount of stitches in multiples of 4.

Repeat Rounds 1-8 for pattern until work measure 50” or desired length.

Being curious about the name of this cowl, I decided to research it. Choux is French and has several meanings, depending on how it is used. Choux (or chou) means cabbage; however, pâte à choux is a puff pastry, and the expression “Mon petit chou” refers to chou à la crème (cream puff ), which is a term of endearment. Both of these expressions are better descriptions for the knitted fabric than a vegetable! As my fabric was growing, the lightness and coziness was more reminiscent of a puff pastry.

The pattern for this project is very simple, yet the results are elegant.

To begin, I’ll use a crochet cast on with scrap yarn and cast on 124 stitches. Although I haven’t decided on a finishing technique, this cast on gives me options.

Being careful not to twist, I place a stitch marker and joined in the round using my main color.

Now, I’ll proceed to knit the plaid pattern as follows:

Once I reached 50”, it was time to pick up the stitches from the provisional cast on. Using a US3 [3.25mm] circular needle (it’s easier to pick up stitches using a smaller needle), I unraveled the crochet cast on and placed the stitches on my needle.

I cast on 124 stitches, using a provisional crochet cast on with scrap yarn.

Unraveling the crochet cast on and picking up the stitches

Once all of the stitches were picked up, it was time to finish.

One point of note, there’s always one stitch short on the picked up round than on the finished round as the stitches are offset. You can either make another stitch on the picked up round from the small gap at the join, or merely sew it in at the end.

I often use a three needle bind off instead of grafting or even sewing shoulder seams. I decided to try this method on the cowl, knowing that it would not work for the entire round, but thought I could finish it with a crochet hook. With right sides together, I proceeded. It worked really well for the first half. The second half required the use of a crochet hook to pick up a stitch from each needle and work them together. Again, this worked well for the bit, but as the remaining stitch count decreased, it became more difficult.

Although I managed to complete it in this fashion, in the end, I don’t think I saved any time or effort. It was an experiment that I will not likely do again, however, trial and error is how new techniques are discovered. We tend to only hear about the successes, but I think it’s important to hear about the not-so-successful attempts as we learn from mistakes. My recommendation, follow the pattern instructions which is to either graft using the Kitchener Stitch or sew the two ends together.

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This is amazing! It’s so soft and cuddly, and feels like you’re wrapped in a warm puff pastry.

It’s a little large for my stature, but I do love it. I can see other applications for this down the road. With the double thickness of the tubular construction, I envision a big warm wrap or blanket to snuggle up in on a cold winter’s night.

I love the plaid pattern. It’s so simple, but elegant at the same time.

Choux Cowl completed, just in time for a cold winter’s day.

I’m making a hat to match the Choux Cowl. I was so impressed with the plaid patterning of the cowl I made that I want to make a hat to go with it, but with the colors reversed.

The effect is awesome! And again, Rozetti Yarn Alaska is so light yet warm.

materials • 1 ball of MC – Stormy, and 1 ball of CC – Frozen Pond • 32” US5 [3.75mm] circular needle (magic loop), or dpns • 32” US6 [4mm] circular needle (magic loop), or dpns • stitch marker 16

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Knitting a matching plaid hat for the Choux Cowl

gauge 20 sts, and 30 rows over 4” [10cm] using US6 [4mm] needle in pattern

Even Rounds 2-6: With CC, * k3, sl 1 purlwise wyib; rep from * to end.

finished measurements approximately 19” circumference, 10” height, to fit size medium head. The rib is very stretchy, so if you knit loosely, you may need to use a smaller sized needle for the rib section.

Repeat Rounds 1-8 for pattern for a total of 4 pattern sets.

Your work should measure approximately 7” from the cast on edge.

Round 8: With MC, knit to end.

Using MC and US5 [3.75mm] needles, cast on 90 stitches, and join in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches. Place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.

Knit a 1×1 rib (K1, P1) for 3”. On the last round, increase evenly by 6 stitches (96 stitches).

Change to US6 [4mm] needles and proceed to work the plaid pattern as follows: (multiple of 4 sts) Odd Rounds 1-7: With MC, knit to end.

Knitting a hat with the plaid pattern to match the Choux Cowl using Magic Loop

Once all pattern sets are complete, it’s time to start the decreases for the crown. I want to keep the plaid pattern throughout the crown, so the decrease sequence is as follows:

Round 1: With MC, k5, k2tog, * k6, k2tog; rep from * to 1 stitch remaining, k1. (84 stitches) Round 2: With CC, * k3, sl 1 purlwise wyib, k2, sl 1 purlwise wyib; rep from * to end.

Round 3: With MC, knit to end.

Round 4: Same as Round 2.

Round 5: With MC, k4, k2tog, * k5, k2tog; rep from * to 1 stitch remaining, k1. (72 stitches} Round 6: With CC, * k3, sl 1 purlwise wyib, k1, sl 1 purlwise wyib; rep from * to end.

Rounds 7 & 8: With MC, knit to end.

Round 9: With MC, * k4, k2tog; rep from * to end. (60 stitches) Round 10: With CC, * k3, sl 2 purlwise wyib; rep from * to end.

Round 11: With MC, knit to end.

Round 12: Same as Round 10.

Round 13: With MC, * k3, k2tog; rep from * to end. (48 stitches) Round 14: With CC, * k3, sl 1 purlwise wyib; rep from * to end.

Round 15 & 16: With MC, knit to end.

Round 17: With MC, * k1, k2tog,* k2, k2tog; rep from * to end. (36 stitches)

Round 18: With CC, * k2, sl 1 purlwise wyib; rep from * to end.

Round 19: With MC, knit to end.

Round 20: Same as Round 18.

Round 21: With MC, * k2tog, k1; rep from * to end. (24 stitches) Round 22: With CC, * k1, sl 1 purlwise wyib; rep from * to end.

Round 23: With MC, knit to end.

Round 24: With MC, k2tog to end, cut yarn and gather up remaining 12 stitches with a tapestry needle and weave in ends.

The hat is designed to be worn with the ribbed band turned up to provide a doubled fabric over the ears. This way, it will be warm and soft to wear on a cold winter’s day.

I’m very happy with the finished product. Now I’m looking forward to making a lightweight cowl to be worn with my new hat.

Finished Hat with plaid pattern from the Choux Cowl

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In Stormy Alaska, leftover yarn is a knitted lacy cowl to the rescue I’ll make a lacy cowl to complete my very airy and soft ensemble. I was very happy with the lacy swatch, so I thought it would be lovely to have a lightweight cowl to wear with my new hat that I created earlier.

You can get the pattern there.

The stitch pattern is from a book entitled Japanese Knitting Stitch Bible by Hitomi Shida. It’s a wonderful resource for cable and lace patterns that can be easily incorporated into a project. I often reuse a pattern stitch from one project to the next; especially socks. I love taking a motif from a hat or sweater that I recently completed and incorporating it into the leg of socks. This makes for a unique sock pattern exclusive to me.

Soft lacy cowl with Japanese Stitch pattern and Alaska – Stormy

This pattern is designed over 14 stitches and 24 rows, therefore, I’ll cast on using a multiple of 14 stitches on circular needles to work in the round. It could also be done on straight needles and worked flat, however, 2 extra stitches should be cast on as a selvedge.

Here’s what you’ll need for this project: materials • 1 ball Alaska – Stormy • 32” US5 [3.75mm] circular needle (magic loop), or dpns • stitch marker • Japanese Knitting Stitch Bible: 260 Exquisite Patterns by Hitomi Shida gauge 21 sts, and 29 rows over 4” [10cm] in pattern using US5 [3.75cm] needle. finished measurements approximately 18” circumference, and 8” in height.

Cast on 98 stitches using US5 [3.75mm] needle and join in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches. Place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.

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I worked 5 rows of garter stitch, and then began the pattern repeat. I worked two pattern sets, then another 5 rows of garter stitch, and cast off all my stitches.

After sewing in the ends, and blocking, I have a lovely soft cowl.

If you recall at the beginning of this feature, I mentioned that my criteria as a yarn snob is: 1. Are the colors pleasing to me, 2. Do I like the feel of the yarn, 3. Do I like knitting with it, and most important of all, 4. Do I like wearing the finished project?

I was knitting the Choux Cowl in public amongst my social knitting circles, and was quite taken by the attention it drew.

The colors, the texture, and the pattern attracted many to where I was perched, and once they felt it, the reaction was the same . . . What is this yarn? It’s so soft!

The winning set! Knit up with Rozetti Yarns oh so very soft and airy Alaska yarn!

Yes, Rozetti Yarns Alaska qualifies in my books. I checked off items 1 and 2 on my list earlier, but it was confirmed for me by my knitting friends. I also found that the more I worked with it, the less the stickiness of the yarn impeded my progress, so item 3 has been answered positively. As for item 4, I’m very pleased with my finished projects as they are all very soft and warm to wear, and look great!

Happy Knitting!

Cindy O'Malley

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Bi-directional herringbone stitch knitted in Dreamy Stripes Charles Voth The soft pastels of this colorway of Dreamy Stripes suit the bi-directional herringbone stitch pattern very well.

The transitions between the stripes are not 100% abrupt. The colors overlap for about 2''. The tones of the colors are well-suited to each other, too.

The “private” side of the bi-directional herringbone stitch pattern is equally lovely, with it’s splayed columns stitches and slightly crocheted appearance.

Knitting with fuzzy yarn like Red Heart Dreamy Stripes inspires me to find stitch textures that have a lace-like effect without always being yarn-over eyelets. Bidirectional herringbone is such a stitch pattern because the fuzziness fills the smaller lace holes and the diagonal strands also catch the light and the halo is intensified.

The bi-directional herringbone stitch pattern is great for a balanced fabric that stretches well four ways. The vertical stretch is the best, but the diagonal strands draw the knit back to its original shape.

Stretching in either diagonal direction has a similar effect, but is slightly more resistant.

Horizontally, the fabric does stretch some, but the give isn’t as generous as the vertical. I wouldn’t recommend this stitch for socks or yokes because the give isn’t flexible enough.

This stitch pattern doesn’t yield fabric that is the same on both sides, but regardless, the “wrong side” is equally pretty.

In my books, that makes this a reversible stitch pattern.

How to knit the bi-directional herringbone stitch

Knit a scarf or cowl with 1 ball of Red Heart Dreamy Stripes.

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Stitches AND Abbreviations K= knit RS= right side yo= yarn over sl1pw= slip 1 purlwise psso= pass slipped stitch over (in this case 2 stitches) p= purl WS= wrong side rep= repeat p2tog= purl 2 together LH= left-hand st(s)= stitch(es)

Instructions With US10.5 [6.5mm] needles, cast on a multiple of 3 stitches, plus 1. This swatch was knit over 46 stitches and is 9″ wide.

Row 1 (RS): K1, *yo, sl1pw, k2, psso2sts; rep from * across.

Row 2: P1, *yo, sl1pw, p2, psso2sts; rep from * across.

Rep Rows 1 and 2 for pattern, ending with a Row 1.

Bind off row (WS): *P2tog, slip st back to LH needle; rep from * across.

With 46 stitches and a gauge of approximately 20 sts per 4″, and 1 ball of Red Heart Dreamy Stripes, you’ll be able to knit a scarf that’s 55″ long x 9″ wide. I hope you give this stitch pattern a try.

Fleck stitch knitted in Super Saver Pooling Interrupting the colors in a painted yarn like Red Heart Super Saver Pooling is a design strategy I like to use to make strands of one color lay across one of the others. The fleck stitch does this very well.

To make the fleck stitch, one starts with 2 stitches and ends with 3. Naturally, repeating this across a row would increase the stitch count substantially. To combat this, bunny ear decreases (I talked about a version of these in my article, Bunny Ear decreases…) are needed to return the stitch count back to normal.

How to work the fleck stitch 1. Bring yarn over the top of the right-hand needle and then back down between the needles to the back of the work.

2. Insert the tip of the right-hand needle into the front leg of the next stitch, knit the stitch but don’t slide it off the left-hand needle.

3. Bring the yarn forward, insert the right-hand needle back into the same stitch and then into the back leg of the next stitch and knit them together and slide off the left-hand needle.

4. Take that first yarn over, it’s the fourth stitch on the right-hand needle, and pass it over all the first 3 stitches.

How to work the bunny ear decrease 1. Insert the right-hand needle into the next 2 stitches as if to knit them together through the front legs.

2. Wrap the yarn and bring it up between the first and second front legs.

3. Slide everything off the lefthand needle.

4. Knit the next st, then take the dropped leg, which now looks like an obvious diagonal strand and pass it over the first 2 stitches on the right-hand needle.

Abbreviations K= knit P=purl; fle-st= fleck stitch b-ears = bunny ear decrease sl= slip 1 purlwise rep= repeat RS= right side

I had to experiment with how frequently I worked the textured rows, so you may notice some sections of the swatch have more rows of stockinette stitch in between. I still can’t decide which one I like better, so I’ll let you choose.

This worsted weight self-striping yarn with short color repeats is perfect for the fleck stitch.

The fleck stitch pattern knit in Super Saver Pooling keeps the eye moving as it looks for a repeated color motif that isn’t there.

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I love this purl-side bind off. It’s quite stretchy.

Fleck Stitch Pattern instructions With US8 [5mm] needles, cast on a multiple of 5 stitches, plus 6. There are 51 stitches on this swatch.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2: Sl 1, k2, purl to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 3: Sl 1, k2, *fle-st, k3; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3–the stitch count will increase by the number of times you repeat the fleck stitch.

Row 4: Sl 1, k2, purl to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 5: Sl 1, k2, *k3, b-ears; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3–the stitch count returns to the original.

Row 6: Rep Row 4.

Row 7: Sl 1, k2, *k3, fle-st; rep from * across to last 3 sts, k3–stitch count increases by number of motif repeats.

Row 8: Rep Row 4.

Row 9: Sl 1, k2, *b-ears, k3; rep from * across to last 3 sts, k3–stitch count back to original.

Row 10: Rep Row 4.

Rep rows 3-10 for pattern.

If you want to work two rows of stockinette between rows 6 and 7, that’s also a possibility.

When the piece is almost square, end with a RS row. Then knit 2 rows.

Then with the WS facing bind off as follows: [P2tog, slip stitch back to left-hand needle] rep between [ ] across.

I hope you try this fun fleck stitch in Super Saver Pooling soon.

I think that the topdown view of the fleck stitch is the best.

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Flared Diamonds knit in Super Saver Fair Isle A few well-placed shaping stitches and a combination of knits and purls, and you have a unique square motif that merges the Fair Isle stripes with textured diamonds.

The flared diamonds are made with common decreases and a twisted make one increase.

Pre-dyed Red Heart Fair Isle yarn looks good when the number of stitches across the work and the tension are set just right for the pattern to knit up looking like a classic Fair Isle sweater yoke. But trying to achieve that exactness is not everyone’s cup of tea. I have more fun exploring how I can make the colors and textured stitches mingle, which I'll talk about now!

The only thing I would do differently with this square would be to knit it with size US6 [4mm] needles instead of the US8 [5mm] I used. As you can see, the ‘twisted make one’ stitches are just a little too loose.

How to knit the twisted make one increase.

1. With yarn at back of work, bring over top of left-hand needle and back down between the needles.

2. Slip the loop over to the righthand needle.

Other abbreviations for this pattern include the following.

While the pattern isn’t reversible, the diamonds are visible on either side.

This pattern can be easily adapted to knit wider pieces.

Simply add multiples of 44 stitches and work the first and last sets of 3 stitches the same for the edging as for the original block.

This chart is also available as a downloadable PDF that allows you to zoom in for a closer look.

Flared Diamond Chart

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The right-side of the Flared Diamonds block

Wrong side of the Flared Diamonds block

If charts aren’t your thing, here are the text instructions.

Row 24: S2 wyif, k1, p8, k7, [p6, k2] twice, k5, p8, k3.

Row 25: S2 wyif, k10, p6, TwM1, k5, ssk, k2tog, k5, TwM1, p6, k12.

Row 26: S2 wyif, k1, [p10, k6, p2] twice, p8, k3.

Row 27: S2 wyif, TwM1, k12, p4, k2tog, k8, ssk, p4, k12, TwM1, k3.

Row 28: P2, k1, p2, [p10, k5] twice, p12, k3.

Row 29: S2 wyif, k1, TwM1, k10, p5, k2tog, k10, ssk, p5, k10, TwM1, k3.

Row 30: S2 wyif, k1, p10, k6, p4, TwM1, p7, k6, p10, k3.

Row 31: S2 wyif, k10, p6, k2tog, k5, TwM1, p1, k5, ssk, p6, k12.

Row 32: S2 wyif, k1, p8, k7, [p6, k2] twice, k5, p8, k3.

Row 33: S2 wyif, k8, p7, k2tog, k5, TwM1, p2, TwM1, k5, ssk, p7, k10.

Row 34: S2 wyif, [k1, p6, k8, p6, k3] twice.

Row 35: S2 wyif, k6, p8, k2tog, k5, TwM1, p4, TwM1, k5, ssk, p8, k8.

Row 36: S2 wyif, k1, p4, k9, [p6, k6] twice, k3, p4, k3.

Row 37: S2 wyif, k4, p9, k2tog, k5, TwM1, p6, TwM1, k5, ssk, p9, k6.

Row 38: S2 wyif, k1, p2, k2, [k8, p6] twice, k10, p2, k3.

Row 39: S2 wyif, k2, p10, k2tog, k5, TwM1, p8, TwM1, k5, ssk, p10, k4.

Row 40: S2 wyif, k2, [k10, p6] twice, k14.

Repeat Rows 17 – 40 as many times as you wish.

Row 41: S2 wyif, k2, p10, TwM1, k5, ssk, p8, k2tog, k5, TwM1, p10, k4.

Row 42: S2 wyif, k1, p2, k2, [k8, p6] twice, k10, p2, k3.

Row 43: S2 wyif, k4, p9, TwM1, k5, ssk, p6, k2tog, k5, TwM1, p9, k6.

Row 44: S2 wyif, k1, p4, k9, [p6, k6] twice, k3, p4, k3.

Row 45: S2 wyif, k6, p8, TwM1, k5, ssk, p4, k2tog, k5, TwM1, p8, k8.

Cast on 50 sts.

Row 1: P47, k3.

Row 2: S2 wyif, k1, p14, k16, p14, k3.

Row 3: S2 wyif, k1, TwM1, k12, p4, k2tog, k8, ssk, p4, k12, TwM1, k3.

Row 4: S2 wyif, k1, p2, [p10, k5] twice, p12, k3.

Row 5: S2 wyif, k1, TwM1, k10, p5, k2tog, k10, ssk, p5, k10, TwM1, k3.

Row 6: S2 wyif, k1, p10, k6, p4, TwM1, p7, k6, p10, k3.

Row 7: S2 wyif, k10, p6, k2tog, k5, TwM1, p1, k5, ssk, p6, k12.

Row 8: S2 wyif, k1, p8, k7, [p6, k2] twice, k5, p8, k3.

Row 9: S2 wyif, k8, p7, k2tog, k5, TwM1, p2, TwM1, k5, ssk, p7, k10.

Row 10: S2 wyif, [k1, p6, k8, p6, k3] twice.

Row 11: S2 wyif, k6, p8, k2tog, k5, TwM1, p4, TwM1, k5, ssk, p8, k8.

Row 12: S2 wyif, k1, p4, k9, [p6, k6] twice, k3, p4, k3.

Row 13: S2 wyif, k4, p9, k2tog, k5, TwM1, p6, TwM1, k5, ssk, p9, k6.

Row 14: S2 wyif, k1, p2, k2, [k8, p6] twice, k10, p2, k3.

Row 15: S2 wyif, k2, p10, k2tog, k5, TwM1, p8, TwM1, k5, ssk, p10, k4.

Row 16: S2 wyif, k2, [k10, p6] twice, k14.

Row 17: S2 wyif, k2, p10, TwM1, k5, ssk, p8, k2tog, k5, TwM1, p10, k4.

Row 18: S2 wyif, k1, p2, k2, [k8, p6] twice, k10, p2, k3.

Row 19: S2 wyif, k4, p9, TwM1, k5, ssk, p6, k2tog, k5, TwM1, p9, k6.

Row 20: S2 wyif, k1, p4, k9, [p6, k6] twice, k3, p4, k3.

Row 21: S2 wyif, k6, p8, TwM1, k5, ssk, p4, k2tog, k5, TwM1, p8, k8.

Row 22: S2 wyif, [k1, p6, k8, p6, k3] twice.

Row 23: S2 wyif, k8, p7, TwM1, k5, ssk, p2, k2tog, k5, TwM1, p7, k10.

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Row 46: S2 wyif, [k1, p6, k8, p6, k3] twice.

Row 47: S2 wyif, k8, p7, TwM1, k5, ssk, p2, k2tog, k5, TwM1, p7, k10.

Row 48: S2 wyif, k1, p8, k7, [p6, k2] twice, k5, p8, k3.

Row 49: S2 wyif, k10, p6, TwM1, k5, ssk, k2tog, k5, TwM1, p6, k12.

Row 50: S2 wyif, k1, [p10, k6, p2] twice, p8, k3.

Row 51: S2 wyif, p45, k3.

Row 52: S2 wyif, k1, p44, k3.

I hope you’ll give this stitch pattern a try. I’d love to see one of the Red Heart Super Saver Fair Isle colorways used in a blanket.

Twisted stitches and lace knit in Super Saver Chunky It’s so exciting to feature a lace panel that features lace eyelets, twisted stitches, and small cables knit in Red Heart Super Saver Chunky. Gone are the days where lace motifs are only knit with lace-weight yarn!

I used columns of twisted stitches to isolate each panel of either lace or small cables. I thought that with chunky yarn, this would help define each textured area.

This yarn looks amazing in any format, in the hand, wound into a cake, and knit into a subtly-textured stitch pattern.

stitches and abbreviations K= knit k-tbl= Knit through the back loop. k2tog = Knit 2 stitches together. p = Purl. ssk = Slip 2 stitches knitwise, then knit slipped stitches together. s2tog-k1-p2sso = Slip 2 stitches together knitwise, knit 1, then pass slipped stitches over. tuck = K1 into next st, but 3 rows below, yo, knit into the same st, slide st 3 rows above insertion point off needle, too. yo = Wrap the working yarn over the right needle, from front to back (counterclockwise). ½ LPC = Slip 1 stitch to cable needle and hold in front; p2; k1 from cable needle. ½ RPC = Slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold in back; k1; p2 from cable needle.

For these columns of twisted stitches, I only knit in the back loop on right-side rows, but to really make those columns pop, purling in the back loop on the corresponding stitches on the wrong side rows really helps.

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instructions Row 1: K2, [k1, k-tbl] twice, p1, k9, p1, k-tbl, k1, k-tbl, p2, [k1, k-tbl] twice, p1, k9, p1, [k-tbl, k1] twice, k2 (43 sts).

Row 2: K2, [k1, p1] 3 times, p8, [k1, p1] twice, p1, k1, [k1, p1] 3 times, p7, [p1, k1] 3 times, k2 (43 sts).

Row 3: K2, [k1, k-tbl] twice, p1, k9, p1, k-tbl, k1, k-tbl, 1/2 RPC, k-tbl, k1, k-tbl, p1, k9, p1, [k-tbl, k1] twice, k2 (43 sts).

Row 4: K2, [k1, p1] 3 times, p7, [p1, k1] 3 times, k1, p1, [p1, k1] twice, p8, [p1, k1] 3 times, k2 (43 sts).

Row 5: K2, [k1, k-tbl] twice, p1, k2, k2tog, yo, tuck, yo, ssk, k2, p1, [k-tbl, k1] twice, p2, k-tbl, k1, k-tbl, p1, k2, k2tog, yo, tuck, yo, ssk, k2, p1, [k-tbl, k1] twice, k2 (47 sts).

Row 6: K2, [k1, p1] 3 times, p9, [p1, k1] 3 times, k1, p1, [p1, k1] twice, p10, [p1, k1] 3 times, k2 (47 sts).

Row 7: K2, [k1, k-tbl] twice, p1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, ssk, p1, k-tbl, k1, k-tbl, 1/2 LPC, k-tbl, k1, k-tbl, p1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, ssk, p1, [k-tbl, k1] twice, k2 (43 sts).

Row 8: K2, [k1, p1] 3 times, p8, [k1, p1] twice, p1, k1, [k1, p1] 3 times, p7, [p1, k1] 3 times, k2 (43 sts).

Row 9: K2, [k1, k-tbl] twice, p1, ssk, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, p1, k-tbl, k1, k-tbl, p2, [k1, k-tbl] twice, p1, ssk, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, p1, [k-tbl, k1] twice, k2 (43 sts).

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Row 10: K2, [k1, p1] 3 times, p8, [k1, p1] twice, p1, k1, [k1, p1] 3 times, p7, [p1, k1] 3 times, k2 (43 sts).

Row 11: K2, [k1, k-tbl] twice, p1, k3, yo, s2tog-k1-p2sso, yo, k3, p1, k-tbl, k1, k-tbl, 1/2 RPC, k-tbl, k1, k-tbl, p1, k3, yo, s2tog-k1-p2sso, yo, k3, p1, [k-tbl, k1] twice, k2 (43 sts).

Row 12: K2, [k1, p1] 3 times, p7, [p1, k1] 3 times, k1, p1, [p1, k1] twice, p8, [p1, k1] 3 times, k2 (43 sts).

Row 13: K2, [k1, k-tbl] twice, p1, k9, p1, [k-tbl, k1] twice, p2, k-tbl, k1, k-tbl, p1, k9, p1, [k-tbl, k1] twice, k2 (43 sts).

Row 14: K2, [k1, p1] 3 times, p7, [p1, k1] 3 times, k1, p1, [p1, k1] twice, p8, [p1, k1] 3 times, k2 (43 sts).

Row 15: K2, [k1, k-tbl] twice, p1, k9, p1, k-tbl, k1, k-tbl, 1/2 LPC, k-tbl, k1, k-tbl, p1, k9, p1, [k-tbl, k1] twice, k2 (43 sts).

Row 16: K2, [k1, p1] 3 times, p8, [k1, p1] twice, p1, k1, [k1, p1] 3 times, p7, [p1, k1] 3 times, k2 (43 sts).

Row 17: K2, [k1, k-tbl] twice, p1, k2, k2tog, yo, tuck, yo, ssk, k2, p1, k-tbl, k1, k-tbl, p2, [k1, k-tbl] twice, p1, k2, k2tog, yo, tuck, yo, ssk, k2, p1, [k-tbl, k1] twice, k2 (47 sts).

Row 18: K2, [k1, p1] 3 times, p10, [k1, p1] twice, p1, k1, [k1, p1] 3 times, p9, [p1, k1] 3 times, k2 (47 sts).

Row 19: K2, [k1, k-tbl] twice, p1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, ssk, p1, k-tbl, k1, k-tbl, 1/2 RPC, k-tbl, k1, k-tbl, p1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, ssk, p1, [k-tbl, k1] twice, k2 (43 sts).

Row 20: K2, [k1, p1] 3 times, p7, [p1, k1] 3 times, k1, p1, [p1, k1] twice, p8, [p1, k1] 3 times, k2 (43 sts).

Row 21: K2, [k1, k-tbl] twice, p1, ssk, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, p1, [k-tbl, k1] twice, p2, k-tbl, k1, k-tbl, p1, ssk, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, p1, [k-tbl, k1] twice, k2 (43 sts).

Row 22: K2, [k1, p1] 3 times, p7, [p1, k1] 3 times, k1, p1, [p1, k1] twice, p8, [p1, k1] 3 times, k2 (43 sts).

Row 23: K2, [k1, k-tbl] twice, p1, k3, yo, s2tog-k1-p2sso, yo, k3, p1, k-tbl, k1, k-tbl, 1/2 LPC, k-tbl, k1, k-tbl, p1, k3, yo, s2tog-k1-p2sso, yo, k3, p1, [k-tbl, k1] twice, k2 (43 sts).

Row 24: K2, [k1, p1] 3 times, p8, [k1, p1] twice, p1, k1, [k1, p1] 3 times, p7, [p1, k1] 3 times, k2 (43 sts).

Rows 25-48: Repeat rows 1-24.

Row 49: K2, [k1, k-tbl] twice, p1, k9, p1, k-tbl, k1, k-tbl, p2, [k1, k-tbl] twice, p1, k9, p1, [k-tbl, k1] twice, k2 (43 sts).

Row 50: K2, [k1, p1] 3 times, p8, [k1, p1] twice, p1, k1, [k1, p1] 3 times, p7, [p1, k1] 3 times, k2 (43 sts).

A PDF of this chart is available here for convenient viewing.

This stitch pattern would be perfect for a cushion cover, a lap blanket, or even a sweater. Knit up in Red Heart Super Saver Chunky, it will take no time at all! I hope you give it a try.

This teal color of Red Heart Super Saver Chunky is one of 19 brilliant options.

The wrong side of the pattern also looks great! With this yarn, the textures really jump out at you.

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Stitches RS: k; WS: p RS: p; WS: k

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I'm so excited to design something with this gradual ombre yarn.

Butterfly Baby Blanket knit in Super Saver Ombre

This pattern uses a multiple of 9 stitches, plus 6 for symmetry and edge stitches.

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I get to play with Red Heart Super Saver Ombre. I’ve always been prone to gradient yarns.

With the advent of long color repeat gradients, I was never so happy. Having a gradient repeat every 2 or 3 yards is one thing, but having it gradually change over a much longer distance is just exhilarating for me.

I’ve been playing around with brioche knitting lately, but the name of that technique itself seems to make so many knitters tremble with misgivings. So I thought I’d take the premise of brioche (using extra horizontal strands within knit stitches) and simplify it to create a different striking texture. I call this the bundle stitch…but it does really look like butterflies, too, if you let your imagination take you there.

stitches and abbreviations Sl = slip K = knit P = purl Wyb = With yarn in back Bundle st = with tip of right-hand needle lift 3 horizontal strands from lowest to top onto needle, knit next st on lefthand needle trapping the strands in the stitch.

This square measured 14″ x 14″, and it’s knit with 51 stitches, but you can make a baby blanket simply by adding a multiple of 9 sts and repeating the motif.

instructions

I hope you enjoyed all the diverse knit stitch patterns offered here using the variety of Red Heart Super Saver yarns. Please share your bundle stitch projects with us as soon as you knit them!

Cast on 51 sts.

Rows 1-3: Slip first st purlwise with yarn in back, knit across.

Row 4 (WS): Wyb sl1, [k4, p5] 5 times, k5–51 sts.

Row 5: Wyb sl 1, knit across.

Row 6: Wyb sl 1, k4, [p5, k4, wyb sl 5 purlwise, without tightening yarn across back, k4] twice, p5, k5.

Rows 7–10: Rep rows 5 & 6.

Row 11: Wyb sl 1, k15, bundle st, k17, bundle st, knit across.

Row 12: Wyb sl 1, k4, [wyb sl 5 purlwise, without tightening, k4, p5, k4] twice, wyb sl 5 purlwise, k4.

Row 13: Wyb sl 1, knit across.

Rows 14 & 15: Rep Rows 12 & 13.

Row 16: Rep Row 12.

Row 17: Wyb sl 1, k6, bundle st, [k17, bundle st] twice, k7.

Rep rows 6-17 until piece is approximately square, ending with either a Row 11 or Row 17.

Next Row: Rep Row 4.

Next 2 Rows: Wyb sl 1, knit across.

Bind off: *P2tog, sl st back to right-hand needle; rep from * across.

The gradual transition between ombre shades is visible from a butterfly’s eye view!

Create exciting texture with the bundle stitch.

Charles Voth

charlesvothdesigns.ca

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Learn to knit with Loop-it Loop-it and Pomp-a-doodle by Red Heart are fun novelty yarns that can be practical!

Loop-it's intended use is for finger knitting, and it does this job very well, teaching big or little fingers to use fine motor skills to draw loops through other loops to make something with their own hands.

I sampled Loop-it in the Ice Ice Cream colorway. I love that it has a hint of color in its whiteness!

Loop-it looks like this – a series of chenille loops. Near the right of the photo I have formed the first stitch, by linking a loop from the ball through the first “stitch” loop of my “cast on.” The yarn is about the size of a fuzzy black-and-brown caterpillar.

Loop-it is a chenille yarn that is anchored at intervals to form loops. It comes in 16 colors, 7 of which have colorways, with several colors per ball. American knitting instructor Marly Bird has prepared several how-to videos on her YouTube channel, see a video on how to Loop-it in garter stitch at the end of this article.

The Red Heart site also has free patterns for a hat, a scarf, a cowl, and a pillow cover.

To work Loop-it, leave a length of yarn the width of the desired project. Fold the yarn at this point, and beginning at the fold, draw the loop from after the fold through the loop before the fold.

In the photo, the loops to the left of the linked stitches are the base loops, and the yarn from the ball goes off the photo on the right.

Cynthia MacDougall

Work cross the foundation loops, drawing the next loop from the ball of yarn through the next loop of the foundation. All of this is done using nothing but your fingers, and the fuzziness of the chenille keeps the new loops in place.

I quickly realized that one can create garter or stockinette fabric, and even ribbing, with Loop-it.

Garter stitch doesn’t look like garter stitch as most knitters know it – it looks a little “flat” and stretched out, but you can still see the “ridges.” I attribute the flatness to the fact that the loops have to be drawn up more than regular knitting would.

To make garter stitch, work to the end of the row, then turn the work over. This brings the working yarn back to the same starting place as the previous row.

Lay the loops across, and draw each loop up from underneath, as for the previous row.

The only drawback I encountered with this finger knitting is that you have to be careful not to miss a loop, because they aren’t organized on a knitting needle.

Garter stitch made with Loop-it. Note the purple stitch marker in the photo. This is the only drawback I found with Loop-it – you have to pay attention that you don’t miss a loop.

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Photos by Cynthia MacDougall

To make a stockinette stitch ground, begin the first row as for garter stitch, but at the end of the row, leave the work right side up.

Lay the working yarn back across the top of the work, and work back in the opposite direction.

The scale of the stitches makes the “V” of each stockinette stitch in this sample clearly visible. The orange stitch marker is just there to hold my last cast off stitch in place.

By going through this exercise in finger knitting, I realized that Loop-it is perfect for teaching the most basic principles of knitting. It is PERFECT for teaching children to knit! It would also be useful for occupational therapists to improve their patients’ fine motor skills, and it could be used in activation programs for the elderly. The size of the yarn makes it easy for little fingers or arthritic hands to manage, the scale of the fabric makes it easy to see and talk about what is happening, and the concepts of cast on and cast off don’t have to be introduced right away, so the initial concepts become second nature before newer ones are introduced. Plus, Loop-it is affordable!

Introducing knitting needles to Loop-it yarn Here, I’m using Loop-it to introduce knitting needles, a logical next step when using Loop-it to teach a young person to knit.

Like we did previously, take loops and pull them through old loops, and we’ll continue to be careful not to miss any loops. The knitting needles actually make it easier to see the loops from the previous row, but care still needs to be taken to make sure every loop of the working yarn is linked in.

In this photo, I’m taking my few rows of finger knitting, and adding a knitting needle to the mix. I insert the needle into the loop in the fabric, then pop the next loop over the tip of the needle and bring that loop through the old one.

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As we do with regular knitting, the needle goes into the old loop, but instead of wrapping the yarn, we draw up the next loop.

Now it becomes necessary to turn the work at the end of every row. Working garter stitch will go as described earlier. Once a knitting student is comfortable with this concept, the idea of stockinette stitch, and purl rows can be introduced.

This is the point when teaching goes pretty well the way it would for standard knitting lessons, but the advantage is that the knit stitch has been very well reinforced by now, and the student is probably ready to learn something new.

At the end of my knit row, I will turn the work and either knit or purl back.

Now the student learns the difference between knit rows and purl rows, and how to hold the yarn at the back or front of the work as needed. It’s at this point in my teaching that I start to talk about ‘reading your knitting’ and about the ‘bumps’. This is one thing I wish my grandmother had known to teach me. The ‘bumps’ in knitting help us know the difference between right side and wrong side of our work, they help us find mistakes in our ribbing, and they can even help us know when to make cables without the aid of row counters.

Two balls of Loop-it will make an adult-size scarf, and the free pattern even has some panels of stitch interest.

I had even more fun with Loop-it – check out my next article for more!

Free pattern on the label has an interesting stitch pattern,

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What happens when you take the whole strand of Loop-it and knit it with broomstick needles! I love the subtle pink undertone in the Ice Ice Cream color.

Giggle knitting with Loop-it leads to an adorable baby blanket

I’m having so much fun with Loop-it, a new novelty yarn by Red Heart. After my knitting experiments I decided to try something else.

One night, when I had some knitting friends over, I grabbed a pair of 1″ [25mm] ‘broomstick’ needles and cast on 8 stitches.

(Honest, there was no wine involved.)

Within 4 rows, I had used the lion’s share of a whole ball of yarn (Loop-it has 7.6 yds [7m] per ball). I ended up with this swatch of knitting!

The three of us got quite a giggle out of this piece, which you have to admit looks like something that got trimmed off a poodle!

After it came off the needles, I saw a sheep in this piece.

You might well see a poodle, but as a knitter and spinner, I usually see a sheep.

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After the giggling was over, I tinkered with this bit of knitting and turned it into a reasonable sheep! With a little button eye and some bits of black ribbon for legs, it makes a very cute applique on the corner of a baby blanket. Here’s how I did it:

Grosgrain ribbon makes suitable legs for a little sheep.

I took a knitting blanket from my knit-and-purl class samples (I also teach classes), then grabbed some 1″ [2.5cm] grosgrain ribbon, and one of those clear plastic buttons frames you embellish with yarn. I also grabbed black thread and couple yards of black double knitting weight yarn.

First, I fashioned legs from the ribbon, pinned them onto the blanket and stitched them down with black thread.

To make the eye, I wove the black cotton yarn through the button form, then anchored it onto the head of the sheep.

Then, I took that whole swatch in the second photo, cinched in a ‘neck’ with white baby yarn, and laid the piece on the blanket so that the body was fairly centered over the legs. Continuing with the baby yarn, I stitched down the belly. When I got to the tail, it happened that this was where the short, cast on tail of yarn was, so I looped it up into a tail and tacked that down as I went.

Knitting with a full strand of Loop-it isn’t really practical, but you have to love that little sheep!

Then, I tucked in the long tail of yarn under the body and kept sewing around the back of the sheep. I sewed the head down last, on a bit of an angle to give it an air of grazing.

The final result of my giggle knitting – a sheep on a blanket!

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Pomp-a-Doodle yarn was designed for children’s craft projects, but it is also a knitting and crochet yarn. This is the Pink Sand colorway.

Pomp-aDoodle – yarn without pomp & circumstance

Pomp and Circumstance is the march heard around the world at graduation, commencement, and convocation ceremonies. It’s a stuffy old, traditional tune.

Pomp-a-Doodle, on the other hand, is fluffy, new and fun! This novelty yarn by Red Heart comes in 22 colors and colorways, with 21 patterns/ instructions for knitting and craft projects.

One of my favorite ideas for this yarn are the wreath patterns.

The Christmas colorway was made for this! Even though none of the wreaths are knitted (they’re all attached with pins to a styrofoam wreath form), I would knit a strip from Pompa-Doodle and do my own thing.

Loop-it makes a great base for Pomp-a-Doodle. The scale of both yarns fit together very nicely!

The pattern included on the ball band is a knitted bath mat that takes 4 balls of yarn and is a modest 18″ x 22″ [45 x 56cm]. If you’ve priced a bath mat recently, you’ll know that, cost-wise, Pomp-a-Doodle stacks up quite well for a mat of this size.

Pomp-a-Doodle is made up of pom-poms (about 1½” [4cm] in diameter) joined by approximately 2-3” [5-7cm] of strong, flexible cord.

I chose the Pink Sand colorway and the Ice Cream colorway of Loop-it, because I wanted to see what would happen when I combined these two yarns to create a bath mat for my bathroom.

Read on for the pattern and three ways to hem this bathmat.

My experiment was a success – the thickness of Loop-it and the spaces between the pompoms of Pomp-a-Doodle go together nicely, as this swatch attests.

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Pomp-a-Doodle and Loop-it together make the best bathmat!

Loop-it and Pomp-a-Doodle bathmat materials

• 3 balls of Loop-it (Yarn A) • 4 balls of Pomp-a-Doodle (Yarn B) • sock or baby yarn in a complementary color for anchoring ends and a hemmed edge (if desired)

Loop-it and Pomp-a-Doodle make an interesting duo!

Circular knitting needle size 11 [8mm] I started out this feature with Loop-it yarn and put it through some paces: the finger knitting for which it was designed, adding knitting needles to help organize the loops and teach basic knitting principles and even using it full-on with broomstick needles.

Then, I introduced you to Pompa-Doodle, an evenly-spaced pompom yarn that has numerous craft applications.

Both Loop-it and Pomp-aDoodle are made of 100% polyester, which makes them great for projects that will be washed often.

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Previously, I combined the two yarns in a swatch with a view to making a bath mat. As I was finishing the mat (I chose to hem the ends), I discovered that this would be a fabulous lap rug for anyone in a wheelchair because the combination is warm! I used the rug for a lap robe one night while I watched television!

That same night I came up with a neat idea for a little girl’s bedroom. A bed scarf, like the ones they have in stylish hotels, but with pompoms, and a fluffy background that can be snuggled up around a chilly child at night. How girly!

Tapestry needle gauge 6 sts to 4″ [10cm] over stockinette stitch, but gauge is not important measurements 24 x 36″ [60 x 90cm] before hemming special instruction – Slide At times, the next yarn needed will be at the ‘wrong end’ of the knitting. When instructed to ‘slide,’ slide the knitting to the opposite end of the circular needle so work can continue with the correct yarn for the next row.

Do not turn the work at the end of a slide instruction.

In this photo, the mat has been finished with a full hem, which hides the Loop-it yarn almost completely.

instructions

Count off 40 loops of Yarn A. Row 1: K 36 loops, turn work.

The 4 leftover loops are worked in on the next row.

Row 2: (K 1 loop from ball, k 1 leftover loop) 4 times, k to end of row.

Row 3: Join Yarn B, leaving a tail of 4 pompoms. (K1, k1 from tail) until the last pompom from the tail has been worked in, k to end of row.

Slide work to the other end of the needle Row 4: With A, p across. Turn work.

This is the mat as it looks from the cast on edge with no hem turned under.

finishing

Bed Scarf

With a length of like-colored sock or baby yarn, stitch the last few loops of Loop-it to the underside. Hem the ends of the Loop-it under, if desired.

To make a bed scarf, count off 31 loops of Loop-it, and knit 27 loops. This should make a scarf 18″ [45cm] wide. The materials for the bath mat should make a scarf about 48″ [122cm] long, so you might want to add one ball of each yarn to make it long enough to drape off the sides of the bed. It would look so adorable in a ‘big girl’s’ bedroom!

As I was knitting this bath mat, my ‘laddie’ proclaimed that he has trouble finding a bathmat small enough to fit in his postage-stamp bathroom, which was an afterthought in his century-plus old home. I’ll need different colors, but I think I’ll make him one and a spare!

Continue in pattern, as follows: Row 1: With B, p across. Slide.

Row 2: With A, k across. Turn.

Row 3: With B, k across. Slide.

Row 4: With A, p across. Turn.

Repeat these 4 rows until mat is 2″ [5cm] short of the desired length. Break B, leaving 4-5 pompoms, and work these into the next row of knitting.

As you can see, I have had a LOT of fun reviewing these two yarns. I really encourage you to get out and get some young people involved with these yarns, whether you teach them to finger knit or make a pompom-themed craft project!

In this photo, the cast on edge from the photo above has been turned under at the first ridge.

Cynthia MacDougall cgknitters.ca

If the last B row was a Row 1, k 4 rows with A. If the last B row was a Row 3, p 3 rows with A. Cast off.

I bought the supplies to make a bathmat for the ‘laddie.’ This mat is about 18” square and uses the Granite colorway of Pomp-a-Doodle.

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KNITmuch

Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com

Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com Standard Yarn Weight System Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com

Standard abbreviations & terms

Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes Standard Yarn Weight System Standard Yarn Weight System

alt = alternate approx = approximately beg = begin(ning) Yarn Weight BO= bind off Symbol & CC = contrast color Category ch = chain Yarn Weight cm = centimetre(s) Names Yarn Weight cn = cable needle Symbol & co = cast on Symbol & of Type Fingering, Sock, DK, Worsted, Chunky, Category Sport, Bulky, Jumbo, cont = continue, continuing Category Names Yarns in 10 count Fingering, Light Afghan, Craft, dc = double crochet Baby Roving Roving NamesCategory crochet thread Baby Worsted Aran Rug dec = decrease(s), decreasing Type of Fingering, Sock, DK, Worsted, Chunky, dpn = double-pointed needle(s) Sport, Bulky, Jumbo, Type ofKnit Gauge Fingering, Sock, DK, Worsted, Chunky, 10 count Fingering, LightJumbo, Afghan, Craft,foll = following Sport, Yarns in Bulky, Baby Roving Roving YarnsRange* in Fingering, Afghan, Category Light crochet thread Baby Craft, Worsted Rugg = gram(s) in 10 count 6 stsAran 33–40** Baby 27–32 Baby 23–26 Worsted21–24 Aran 16–20 Rug 12–15 Roving 7–11 Roving hdc = half double crochet Category crochet thread Stockinette and inc = increase(s), increasing sts sts sts Gauge sts sts sts sts Knit Stitch to fewer in(s) = inch(es) Knit Gauge Range* in 6 sts 4 inches 33–40** 27–32 23–26 21–246 sts 16–20 12–15k = knit 7–11 Range* in Stockinette kf&b or kfb =stsknit into frontand and back of st (increase) 33–40** 27–32 23–26 21–24 16–20 12–15 7–11 sts sts sts sts sts sts Stockinette and fewerloop ktbl = knit through the back Recommended sts sts sts Stitch to sts sts sts sts 12.75 mm k2tog = knit 2 sts tog (right-leaning decrease) StitchNeedle to in 4 inches 1.5–2.25 2.25–3.25 3.25–3.75 3.75–4.5 4.5–5.5 5.5–8 8–12.75 fewer k3tog = knit 3 sts together (double right-leaning and 4 inches Metric Size mm mm mm mm mm mm mm decrease) larger Recommended Range 12.75 mm m = marker Recommended Needle in 1.5–2.25 2.25–3.25 3.25–3.75 3.75–4.5 4.5–5.5 5.5–8 8–12.75 m = meter(s) 12.75 mm and Needle in 1.5–2.25 2.25–3.25 3.25–3.75Metric Size 3.75–4.5 4.5–5.5 5.5–8 8–12.75 mm mm mm mm mm mm mm m1 = Make 1 stitch: pick up the horizontal strand Recommended 17 and larger Metric Size mm mm mm Range mm mm mm mm between 2 stitches from front to back and knit it Needle U.S. 000 to 1 1 to 3 3 to 5 5 to 7 7 to 9 9 to 11 11 to 17 larger and tbl (lifted increase) Range Size Range larger MC = main color Recommended 17 Recommended Needle U.S. 000 to 1 1 to 3 3 to 5 5 to 7 17 7 to 9 9 to 11mm = millimetre(s) 11 to 17 and Crochet oz = ounce(s) Needle U.S. 000 to 1 1 to 3 3 to 5 Size Range5 to 7 7 to 9 9 to 11 11 to 17 and larger p = purl Gauge*Ranges 32–42 6 sts Size Range 21–32 16–20 12–17 11–14 8–11 7–9 larger p2tog = purl 2 sts tog (decrease) in Single double and Crochet patt = pattern sts sts sts sts sts sts Crochet to fewer crochets** Crochet pfb = purl into front and back Gauge*Ranges 6 sts of stitch (increase) 32–42 21–32 16–20 12–17 11–14 8–11 4 inch pm = place7–9 marker Gauge*Ranges 32–42 6 sts double11–14 and 21–32 16–20 in Single 12–17 8–11 7–9 sts sts sts sts sts sts psso = pass slipped stitch over in Single double and Crochet to crochets** fewer sts sts sts sts sts sts RS = right side Steel*** Crochet to fewer 15 mm crochets** 4 inch Recommended rem = remain(ing) 2.25–3.25 3.5–4.5 4.5–5.5 6.5–9 9–15 4 inchHook in Metric 1.6–1.4 mm rep = repeat 5.5–6.5mm and Regular hook mm mm mmSteel*** mm mm rev = reverse Size Range larger 15 mm Recommended 2.25 mm Steel*** 6.5–9rnd = round9–15 1.6–1.4 mm 2.25–3.25 3.5–4.5 4.5–5.5 Recommended 15 mm 5.5–6.5mm and Hook in Metric sc = single crochet 1.6–1.4 mm 2.25–3.25 3.5–4.5 4.5–5.5 Regular hook 6.5–9 9–15 mm mm mm mm mm Hook in Metric 5.5–6.5mm and larger Size Range sl = slip Regular hook mm mm mm mm mm 2.25 mm skp = slip one st, knit next st, pass slipped st over knit Size Range larger Steel*** 2.25 mm st (dec) Q Recommended 6, 7, 8 I–9 1 K–10 ⁄2 M-13 ssk = slip, slip, knit: slip 2 sts knitwise, 1 at a time, insert and Hook U.S. Size Regular B–1 to E–4 E–4 to 7 7 to I–9 to Steel*** left-hand needle into front of both sts and knit to M-13 to Q Steel***hook largerI–9 Range K–10 1⁄2 Q Recommended 6, 7, 8 them tog 1 K–10 ⁄ 2 M-13(left-leaning decrease) Q Recommended 6, 7, 8 B–1 sssk = slip next three stitches individually, knitwise. and Hook U.S. Size RegularI–9 B–1 to E–4 E–4 to 7 7 to I–9 to 1 K–10 ⁄2 M-13 to M-13 Insert tip to Qof left needle from front to back into and Hook U.S. Size Regular B–1 to E–4 E–4 to 7 Range 7 to I–9 larger hook to K–10 1⁄2 to M-13 to Q the fronts of these three stitches and knit them larger Range hook B–1K–10 1⁄2 together (double left-leaning decrease) * GUIDELINES B–1ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories. st(s) = stitch(es) ** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a St st = stocking stitch GUIDELINES ONLY:inThe above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories. gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow* the gauge stated your pattern. tbl = through back loop * GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories. ** Lacehooks--the weight yarns are usually knittedthe or smaller crocheted larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a *** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular higher the number, theon hook, which is the reverse tog = together gauge range is difficult to determine.

Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern. of regular tr = treble crochet ** Lace weight hook yarns sizing. are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern.

WSthe = wrong side is the reverse *** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller hook, which This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at: YarnStandards.com yo = yarn over regular hook sizing. *** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular of hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse of regular hook sizing.

This Standards11 & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at: YarnStandards.com This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at: YarnStandards.com

Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes

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