My Little House Coaster Series PFAFF creative icon 2
Kaleidoscope quilt blocks Paper piecing made easy!
Adding piping + invisible zipper to cushions
paperless piecing
Summertime Streetscape Wall Quilt
As the crisp air of fall begins to settle in, there's a cozy excitement that comes with the changing season—a perfect time to dive into quilting projects that offer both warmth and creativity. The vibrant colors of autumn inspire us to explore new techniques, while the shorter days encourage us to spend more time in the comfort of our sewing rooms. This issue is filled with projects and ideas to help you embrace the season, whether you're preparing for the holidays or simply looking to add a bit of warmth to your home.
The iconic Kaleidoscope quilt block is the star of this edition, and we’re diving into multiple techniques to bring it to life. Whether you’re new to paper piecing or a seasoned pro, our articles on Freezer Paper Printing and No Tear Paper Piecing Magic will make this intricate design more accessible than ever. For those who love variety, we’ve also included easy block variations and exciting layout choices to take your Kaleidoscope quilts to new heights.
In addition to these geometric marvels, we’re thrilled to present the "Summertime Streetscape Wall Quilt" series. This charming project invites you to craft a whimsical streetscape filled with colorful houses, detailed roofs, windows, and doors. Each step offers both creativity and precision—perfect for quilters who enjoy the art of intricate design and attention to detail. Customize it to any season your heart desires.
Editor'sLetter
For a smaller-scale project, turn to our "My Little House Coaster" series, where you can try your hand at paperless piecing, machine embroidery, raw edge applique, and hoop applique. These fun, quick projects are great for using up scraps and experimenting with different techniques; all sewn on the PFAFF creative icon 2.
And, if you're ready to spruce up your outdoor living spaces, our guide to sewing colorful backyard accessories will show you how the right tools—like the Husqvarna VIKING Opal 690Q—can make cutting and constructing patio cushions a breeze. Plus, we’ll teach you how to master the flat felled seam, make perfect piping, and even add an invisible zipper for a professional finish.
At its heart, quilting is about balancing precision with playfulness. It's the joy of watching a quilt come together— stitch by stitch, block by block—each piece telling a part of the story. In this issue, we hope you find the tools, tips, and inspiration to keep creating your own beautiful tales through fabric. Warmest stitches.
Cheerfully,
Photo by Autumn Mott Rodeheaver
OUILT
PUBLISHER, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF,
Carla A. Canonico carla@QUILTsocial.com
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John De Fusco john@QUILTsocial.com
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Carla A. Canonico, John De Fusco
BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS
Elaine Theriault crazyquilteronabike.blogspot.com
Jean Boyd jeanboyduppercanadaquiltworks.blogspot.com
Olesya Lebedenko olesya-l-design.com
Robin Bogaert quiltingintheloft.com
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Carla A. Canonico carla@QUILTsocial.com
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WHERE TO GET YOUR COPY
QUILTsocial is a quarterly eMagazine published by A Needle Pulling Thread. It is available free for personal use online at https://QUILTsocial.com
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EDITORIAL
Designers and other contributors who would like to be considered for future issues please email carla@QUILTsocial.com with a brief description of your work and your proposed project for the magazine.
No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.
All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are for private, non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted material owned by their respective creators or owners.
6 Kaleidoscope quilt blocks | Paper piecing made easy
7 Kaleidoscope quilt blocks | Freezer paper printing
9 Kaleidoscope quilt blocks | No tear paper piecing magic!
50 Right tools make cutting large pieces for perfect patio cushions a snap
52 How to sew a Flat Felled Seam
55 Making piping is a breeze with the Welt Cord Foot
58 Adding piping AND an invisible zipper to cushions
KALEIDOSCOPE QUILT BLOCKS paper piecing made easy
Robin Bogaert
If you love to paper piece quilt blocks but don’t love the arduous task of tearing away all those tiny pieces of paper at the end of sewing for hours, then this article is for you!
In this feature I'll talk about making 2 Kaleidoscope quilt blocks with this unique no tear method featuring FABRIC CREATIONS Cotton Fabric, Best Press Starch Alternative, Clover 9612 Roll ‘n Press, GÜTERMANN 100% Polyester Thread, and Sew Easy Freezer Paper
I’m sure you won’t look at paper piecing the same after trying this method. If you are new to paper piecing this is a method of quilt piecing, so your blocks are extremely accurate. See what the hype is all about with piecing accuracy. This method is truly a game changer.
No Tear Kaleidoscope Pattern materials fabric
• 8-10 pieces of coordinating cotton fabric (I used FABRIC CREATIONS fabric bundle and 2 FABRIC CREATIONS cotton solids) thread
• strong thread (I used GÜTERMANN 100% polyester) because it’s strong and fine for piecing these blocks
notions
• paper scissors
• fabric scissors
• rotary cutter
• cutting mat
• thread snips
• ruler to cut 8½” x 11” freezer paper sheets and square blocks
• Sew Easy freezer paper for quilting and applique freezer paper
• a fabric roller or brayer
• Best Press fabric spray starch
• pins equipment
• photocopier
• sewing machine with a basic sewing foot and straight stitch
• iron
• ironing board office supplies
• paper to print out original patterns to fit your photocopier 8½” x 11”
• transparent tape
• fine permanent marker for tracing (optional)
Your homework is to download the free PDF patterns for the Kaleidoscope blocks. Print out the pattern onto paper first and I’ll explain how to transfer the patterns to freezer paper 2 ways so you can get started learning paper piecing made easy. Ri isciasi voluptio torat laut eum rerorit incilit, sequibus, nesciatem fuga. Abore volupta num sit ea voles recepratia poritaquia sundi consequ atiumque
Kaleidoscope block 1
Kaleidoscope block 2
Photos by Robin Bogaert
Supplies for this project
KALEIDOSCOPE QUILT BLOCKS freezer paper printing
Freezer paper is critical for making paper piecing easy with this method. Freezer paper has a matte side for printing or drawing a design and a waxy, or sticky side when ironed, making it very versatile for adhering to fabric. You will understand more as we go through the steps in this feature. You can usually find it at your local quilt shop or sewing store.
How to print patterns onto freezer paper
1. Once you downloaded the free Kaleidoscope block patterns, save the designs on your computer, send them to your printer.
TIP If you don’t have a home printer you can save the patterns on a USB stick to take to a print shop for printing.
2. Print out all 4 pages onto 8½” x 11” pieces of standard printer paper.
3. If you don’t have a printer trace out Kaleidoscope Blocks 1 and 2 only (the first 2 pages you printed at a print shop) onto the matte side of freezer paper with a permanent fine marker. Freezer paper is quite seethrough with a light source such as a bright window or lightbox.
4. If you do have a home printer tape freezer paper very carefully with a thin, small piece of transparent tape in 4 corners matte side facing up onto an 8½” x 11” piece of standard printer paper.
5. Lay the freezer paper matte side down onto the paper tray in your printer. You may need to experiment with this. Mine feeds matte side down to print. Print with black ink only.
Kaleidoscope Block Option 2 pattern printed on freezer paper, ready to cut
Kaleidoscope Block Option 1 pattern ready to cut
6. Print about 4 copies of Kaleidoscope Block Option 1 and 2 copies of Kaleidoscope Block Option 2. You can use the freezer paper over and over, which is fantastic. I was able to use my patterns 10+ times.
7. If printed on a home printer, remove any tape, and remove the pattern from the paper. Cut out the freezer paper patterns on the lines with paper scissors with no seam allowance for block option 1 and a ¼” seam allowance for block option 2.
8. To prepare the fabric for cutting using the paper pattern for Kaleidoscope Block options 1 and 2. Accurately cut out pieces 1-5 for Option 1 and cut out pieces 1-4 for Option 2. Set aside. These will act as templates for fabric to be cut out.
Our patterns are now ready! We will play with fabric and start the sewing process. This is exciting! We all like to sew and touch fabric.
Cutting out fabric templates with paper pattern block option 2 for precutting of fabric
Cutting out fabric templates with paper pattern for pre-cutting of fabric
KALEIDOSCOPE QUILT BLOCKS no tear paper piecing magic!
We are finally getting to sew the Kaleidoscope Blocks with GÜTERMANN 100% Polyester Thread and gorgeous cheerful fabric, a 5-Piece Bundle from Fabric Creations In addition, I will show you how the Clover Roll 9612 Roll ‘n Press and Best Press Starch Alternative are very useful notions for the making of these blocks.
Sewing instructions
1. Fold each pattern piece on the lines of the pattern and crease the lines very well with the Clover Roll ‘n Press. It is important that these lines are very pliable and pressed well and the Roll ‘n Press is ideal for this purpose.
2. Using Best Press Starch Alternative, press and starch the fabric. This gives it more structure and it stretches less when it is ironed frequently as it will be with the 8 triangle units of this Kaleidoscope Block 1. Also, the lavender scent is lovely.
3. Using the paper templates cut from printer paper, cut out 8 triangles from each piece of fabric leaving about ½” seam allowance all the way around. You will have paper pieces 1-5 and need 8 of each piece as shown.
4. Press fabric 1 wrong side down to the waxy side of the freezer paper covering section 1. The fabric will stick temporarily to the wax on the paper as shown.
5. Fold the freezer paper back as shown towards the matte side on the line between piece 1 and 2 and trim the ¼” seam allowance as shown.
Creasing all lines of pattern with the Clover Roll ‘n Press
Creasing all lines of pattern with the Clover Roll ‘n Press
FABRIC CREATIONS Cotton is pressed and starched with Best Press Starch Alternative
All fabric pieces are cut out ready for easy paper piecing
Piece one pressed with iron wrong side down to waxy side of freezer paper
Folding fabric for piece 1 back on the line between 1 and 2
Piece 1 is trimmed with a ¼” seam allowance beyond the freezer paper
6. With fabric right sides together and fabric 2 lined up with the ¼” seam allowance as shown, take this to the sewing machine and sew with a fine strong thread like GÜTERMANN 100% Polyester Thread. With many seams coming together with the 8 triangles it is important to have strong thread and thread that doesn’t increase the bulk in the seams. Sew with a standard stitch width right next to the freezer paper but not on the freezer paper as shown.
7. Fold fabric 2 back towards the shiny side of the freezer paper and press it well onto the freezer paper, it will stick temporarily.
8. Turn over and fold the line between fabrics 2 and 3 as shown and trim the ¼” seam allowance as was done with fabric piece 1.
10. Continue sewing, flipping, pressing and trimming fabric as shown in steps 5-9 until you have all 5 fabrics completely sewn as shown.
11. Turn the triangle piece over to the freezer paper side and using a rotary cutter and ruler, trim all around it using the outside lines as a guide. This is a 45 degree triangle when completed as shown, which means 7 more are needed to be sewn for a total of 8.
Fabric 2 trimmed with ¼” seam allowance
Fabric 2 trimmed with ¼" seam allowance
Fabric 3 placed right side together with fabric 2 on the ¼” seam allowance
Sewing of seam just beside fold of freezer paper
Fabric 3 pressed onto the wax side of the freezer paper
Trimming the completed triangle unit with the outside lines as a guide
The completed triangle still adhered to the freezer paper
Fabric 2 lined up with the ¼” seam allowance ready for sewing
Sew the seam very close to the fold of the freezer paper but not on the freezer paper.
Pressing fabric 2 to the shiny side of the freezer paper
9. Line up fabric 3 right sides together with piece 2 as shown. Sew very close to the fold of the freezer paper, but not on it. Flip and press as shown.
12. This is where the magic happens. Peel away the freezer paper from the back of the triangle gently, if you haven’t sewn on the freezer paper this should be easy. You can now use this freezer paper pattern again and again up to 8-10 times.
13. Make 7 more of these triangle units until you have a completed the hexagon shapes as shown.
14. Sew in groups of 2, there are no seams to match but pinning is recommended as shown.
The completed triangle still adhered to the freezer paper
Peeling away freezer paper gently.
Freezer paper is peeled away.
Hexagon made of 8 triangle units; all freezer paper is peeled away.
Pin 4 groups of 2 together.
15. Pin and sew 2 groups of 4 triangle units together as shown.
16. Sew final kaleidoscope hexagon together.
17. For corner squares, cut 2 - 5” x 5” squares of background fabric. I used FABRIC CREATIONS Cotton in white. Sub cut these squares in half on the 45-degree diagonal as shown to form triangles.
18. Sew these corner squares to all 4 corners of the kaleidoscope hexi block and square this block to 15” square as shown.
19. Admire your efforts! You don’t have to tear away any paper as the freezer paper did all the work for you, it’s miraculous!
I hope you enjoyed how I use the Sew Easy Freezer Paper for Quilting and Applique, the Clover Roll 9612 Roll ‘n Press and the Best Press Starch Alternative to make these no tear paper pieced blocks. Next, I show you how I made another fun and even easier block. You will love how different the fabric looks in a new arrangement and you may want to add this to your block repertoire as a fantastic stash buster.
Corner triangles sewn to the hexagon block
Final block squared to 15”
2 Groups of 4 triangle units sewn together to make the kaleidoscope block
Completed kaleidoscope hexagon block
Corner triangles cut 4
KALEIDOSCOPE QUILT BLOCKS
Block 2 easy variation
I’m showing you a very easy and fun variation 2. This one involves only 4 triangles. It’s pretty, fresh-looking and a perfect spring stash buster. Follow along with me.
Note: The method for sewing Block 2 is the same as I described before, refer to the previous article, Kaleidoscope quilt blocks | No tear paper piecing! for the detailed sewing instructions.
Sewing instructions
1. Print out the pattern for Block 2 below onto freezer paper or trace it onto freezer paper.
2. Crease all lines in the pattern as described in previous article with a Clover Roll
Kaleidoscope Block 2 with no tear paper piecing
Pattern printed out on freezer paper
All lines creased with the Clover Roll ‘n Press
‘n Press
3. Cut out all fabric pieces ½” larger than the paper pattern templates as done with Kaleidoscope Block 1.
4. Sew with the freezer paper templates 4 times to make the block units as shown. You can mix up the fabric as I did using 8 patterned pieces and 2 different background pieces in turquoise and white. Wait until you see the secondary pattern it creates. It’s stunning!
5. Once you have 4 of the triangle units trimmed as shown below, match the seams and sew them together in groups of 2.
triangle units
6. Press all joining seams open as shown, use Best Press Starch Alternative and the Clover Roll ‘n Press to coax seams flat (recommended).
7. Sew all units together in groups of 2 and then through the middle as done with previous block. Press all joining seams open to reduce bulk.
8. Admire the block completed. This block works out to be 8½” square. Make as many of these as you like.
These blocks couldn’t be done without FABRIC CREATIONS
Cotton, Best Press
Starch Alternative, GÜTERMANN 100% Polyester
Thread, Clover 9612 Roll ‘n Press or Sew Easy Freezer Paper for Quilting and Applique.
Look for these notions at your local quilt store or ask to have them ordered for you.
Pin to match seams as shown
Pressing joining seams open
Completed Kaleidoscope Block 2
4
trimmed to make the Kaleidoscope Block 2
Kaleidoscope triangle 1 for block 2 before squaring
KALEIDOSCOPE QUILT BLOCKS
exciting layout choices
I’d like to talk about how dynamic these blocks can be when made in multiples and placed into a quilt.
Kaleidoscope Block 1 design layout
I multiplied my blocks by copying and pasting my original block a few times and look at what happened. A representation of what you can do with multiple blocks. Remember this is a 15” block so it’s very big and wouldn’t take many to make a quilt. The layout below makes a 60” x 75” large throw sized quilt and you can change the layout achieve other sizes. Another suggestion is to add solid blocks in between.
Kaleidoscope Block 2 design layout
Sometimes when you layout multiple blocks a secondary pattern emerges as shown. I see the star in the middle and an on-point large square. It’s such an interesting layout.
Kaleidoscope Block 2 design layout on point
Turning the blocks lay out on-point gives a different perspective. It reveals a pinwheel star in the middle and shows off the on-point small square in the middle within the larger square.
Other
design variations
The quilt shown below was created with quilt design software to show what a larger quilt might look like. It measures 48” x 56” which is a good-sized baby quilt. This is what I intend to make with my blocks. Remember, each block measures 8½” square or 8” finished so 42 blocks are required to make a quilt of this size.
Another variation
This variation shows the solid block in between. It’s always a great option and an opportunity to show off your quilting skills or that of your long armer in the negative space. For this 48” x 76” quilt only 21 blocks are needed. I love the freshness of this design and how the blocks look like they will spin like windmills.
I’ve just given you some design ideas to start the creative process. There are so many more options. I sincerely hope you’ve enjoyed these articles on no-tear paper piecing and that you’ll use this as a skill for more quilts to make your sewing easier. Don’t forget to look for Sew Easy Freezer Paper, the Clover 9612 Roll ‘n Press, Best Press Starch Alternative, FABRIC CREATIONS Cotton and GÜTERMANN 100% Polyester Thread at your local sewing and quilt shops.
Robin Bogaert quiltingintheloft.com
Kaleidoscope Block # 1 makes a 60” x 75” quilt top
Secondary star pattern emerges when 4 blocks are laid out
On point layout
Baby quilt designed with Kaleidoscope Block 2
Kaleidoscope Block 2 layout with alternating solid blocks
Making the Summertime Streetscape
Wall Quilt
essential quilting tools
I'm using products that are designed especially for applique shapes as I make the Summertime Streetscape Wall Quilt. Products include UNIQUE quilting Clever Clips (small size), HeatnBond EZ-Print Feather Lite sheets 8½" x 11", the UNIQUE quilting applique pressing sheet, and the Hemline Gold Multi-Use Craft Bag
I'll also use Mary Ellen's Best Press in the Spray and Misting bottle and 2 different Oliso irons.
Here's a quick description of some of these products:
Oliso Pro 1600 Pro Plus Smart Iron
Simply touch the handle and the iron lowers, ready to work. Take your hand off and the patented scorch guards lift the iron off the board preventing scorches, burns, and tipping. It’s not only safer, but it also saves time as well as your wrists! Other classic features include 1800 watts of power and horizontal or vertical bursts of steam. The TG1600 Pro Plus features a 30-minute extended auto-shut off. Be sure to watch this video about Oliso for even more information.
Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron with Solemate
The Oliso Mini Project iron is designed for sewing, quilting and crafting. It has the power of a full sized iron in a compact and lightweight design allowing it to fit next to your sewing machine or in your Hemline Gold Multi-Use Craft Bag with ease. This 1,000 watt iron heats up fast and the precision tip is perfect for tight spots and appliques. The fabric selector evenly distributes the ideal heat for synthetics, wool and cotton. The included Solemate lets the iron's hot soleplate rest during ironing.
Mary Ellen's Best Press
Best Press makes ironing easier and fabrics look like new again. Plus, there’s no flaking, clogging, or white residue on dark fabrics! A special stain shield protects fabrics, and the product helps relax stubborn wrinkles. The Spray and Misting bottle gives a consistent, nondrip spray of extra fine mist.
Jean Boyd
UNIQUE quilting Clever Clips (small size)
These durable, spring-loaded clips hold fabrics securely, quickly and easily. They are a great alternative to pins when working with multiple layers of fabric. Clever Clips are quick and easy to remove and the semi-transparent color makes it easy to see through to the fabric.
HeatnBond EZ-Print Feather Lite sheets 8½" x 11"
These paper backed, iron-on, doublesided adhesive sheets can be used without adding extra weight or stiffness to your fabric. It’s also an alternative to pinning or basting applique shapes You can print directly or trace your applique shapes on the paper backing. It's great for multi-layer pieces like the houses we'll be making. There are 10 sheets in each package. Feather Lite also comes in a 17" x 1yd sheet
Photos by Jean Boyd
Supplies for the projects
Mary Ellen’s Best Press and spray and misting bottle
Small size Clever Clips
UNIQUE quilting applique pressing sheet
UNIQUE quilting applique pressing sheet
This brown reusable, double sided pressing sheet is perfect when using fusible web for applique shapes. It's made from glass fiber and has a Teflon coating that withstands heat up to 280° C (530° F).
Hemline Gold Multi-Use Craft Bag
The Multi-Use Craft Bag (11" x 14" x 7") is perfect for taking supplies to workshops, retreats and classes and it can also fit conveniently beside your sewing machine. It features a fold-down flap with a quilted ironing mat that's perfect for working on small applique pieces like the ones we'll be using.
The bag has plenty of pockets, including a large internal pocket that easily holds an 8" x 12" cutting mat. It also features strong and durable handles that are long enough to fit comfortably over your shoulder.
Pattern
Print the pattern for the trees, shrubs and roof section and you'll be ready to start constructing your houses. Be sure to print the pattern at actual size (100%).
Please join me on QUILTsocial as I use HeatnBond EZ-Print Feather Lite sheets 8½" x 11", the Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron with Solemate, and the UNIQUE quilting applique pressing sheet to start preparing the fabric for the houses in our Summertime Streetscape wall quilt.
HeatnBond EZ-Print Feather Lite sheets 8½" x 11"
Multi–Use Craft Bag
The inside of the Multi–Use Craft Bag
The Summertime Streetscape Wall Quilt project
Summertime Streetscape Wall Quilt making the houses
The finished size will be 27” x 16”. Today I’ll show you how to make the bottom section of each house.
In addition to the supplies listed before, you'll also need the following:
fabric
• 16" x 27" for background
• 30" x 19" for backing
• 6" x 27" for grass
• 6" x 8" from 3 different co-ordinating fabrics for houses
• 3½" x 6½" from 3 different co-ordinating fabrics for roofs
• 3 different 2" x 15" strips for windows and doors
• 3 different 2" x 18" strips for window and door frames
• scraps of co-ordinating green fabrics for trees and bushes
• batting 29" x 18"
notions
• template plastic 4" x 7"
• white fabric marking pen
• fabric scissors
• thread to match fabrics
• HeatnBond EZ-Print Feather
11" or 1 package 17" x 1 yard
Let's get started!
1. From each of the 3 house fabrics and HeatnBond EZ-Print Feather Lite fusible web, cut 1 – 6" x 8" rectangle.
2. Following the instructions on the package, press the fusible web to the back of the fabrics. Be sure to use the UNIQUE applique pressing sheet to protect your ironing surface. You can use either the Oliso Pro TG1600 Pro Plus Smart Iron or the Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron, but I really preferred the mini iron when working with these small pieces of fabric.
3. Stack the fabrics, one on top of the other. Use some small UNIQUE Clever Clips to hold the fabrics together.
4. Make 2 diagonal cuts through all 3 fabrics as shown in the photo.
Lite sheets 8½" x
Bottom section of 1 house
Fabrics and fusible web for the houses
Make 2 diagonal cuts through all 3 fabrics.
HeatnBond EZ-Print Feather Lite sheets 8½" x 11"
5. Re-arrange the pieces so you have 3 different fabrics in each rectangle.
3 different fabrics in each rectangle
6. Fold the HeatnBond EZ-Print Feather Lite fusible web, back ¼" on each center piece. Don’t remove the backing paper from the fusible web.
Fold the fusible web back on each center piece.
7. Carefully press the 3 sections together.
3 sections pressed together
8. Trim each rectangle so it measures 5" x 7". These will be the pieces for the 3 houses.
Trim to 5" x 7".
I hope you’ve enjoyed using these wonderful products: HeatnBond EZ-Print Feather Lite sheets 8½" x 11", the Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron, UNIQUE Clever Clips and the UNIQUE applique pressing sheet
Summertime Streetscape Wall Quilt making roofs, windows, and doors!
I’m using the same products to add the roofs, windows, and doors.
1. Cut 3 pieces 3¼" x 6¼" from HeatnBond EZ-Print Feather Lite fusible web for the roofs
2. Center a piece of 3¼" x 6¼" fusible web on the wrong side of each 3½" x 6½" roof fabric and press.
3. Trace the roof shape from the pattern page on template plastic and cut it out.
4. Trace around the plastic roof template on the back of each roof fabric.
5. Cut out the roof shape leaving ¼" all around the drawn lines.
6. Stack the 3 roof triangles together and hold them together with some small UNIQUE Clever Clips.
7. Make one diagonal cut on each roof shape as shown in the photo below.
8. Arrange the roof pieces so you have 2 different fabrics on each roof.
9. Fold back ¼" of the fusible web paper on the bottom section of the roof.
10. Press the 2 pieces of roof fabric together to complete the roof shape. The small Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron is perfect for working on these small pieces. Be sure to use the UNIQUE applique pressing sheet when using fusible web.
11. Place the roof template on the fabric and trace around it. Cut on the drawn lines.
12. Fold back the fusible web paper on the bottom of the roof.
13. Press the roof shape to the top of the house shape.
Roofs
2 houses with roofs, doors and windows added
Cut out the roof shape.
Assembly of roof shapes
Trace around roof template and then cut on the lines.
One pieced house with roof attached
Windows
Here are the instructions for creating 6 windows and a door for one of the houses. Feel free to change the shapes of the windows and doors as desired.
1. Press a 1" x 10" strip of HeatnBond EZ-Print Feather Lite fusible web on a 1¼" x 10½" strip of window fabric.
2. Cut 6 – ¾" x 1½" rectangles for the windows.
Window frames
1. Window Frames: Press a 1¼" x 13¾" strip of HeatnBond EZPrint Feather Lite fusible web on a 1½" x 14" strip of window frame fabric.
2. Center the 6 window shapes on the window frame fabric. Remove paper backing from the fusible web on the window shapes and press them on the window frame fabric. Leave about 3/8" between each window fabric.
3. Cut out the window/frame shapes so there is 1/8" of frame fabric showing on all sides.
Doors
1. Cut a 1" x 2¾" piece of door fabric.
2. Center a piece of fusible web that is slightly smaller on the back and press in place.
3. Trim so the door measures ¾" x 2½".
4. Cut a 1" x 2¾" piece of door frame fabric.
5. Cut a piece of fusible web that is slightly smaller than the door frame fabric. Center it on the back of the door frame fabric and press in place.
6. Remove paper backing from the door shape and press it to the door frame shape.
7. Trim the door frame shape so there is 1/8" showing around the sides and top of the door.
I hope you’re enjoying how easy it is to create fusible applique elements with the UNIQUE applique pressing sheet, HeatnBond EZ-Print Feather Lite fusible web and the Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron
Press windows on window frame fabric.
Completed windows and doors
6 cut–out window shapes
Summertime Streetscape Wall Quilt beauty is in the details
Let's add details and start putting everything together.
1. Remove the paper backing from the HeatnBond EZ-Print Feather Lite fusible web on the backs of the window and door frames.
2. Arrange the shapes as desired on the houses.
3. Use the Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron to press the shapes in place.
4. Using a permanent fabric marking tool, draw sashing lines on the windows and doors as desired.
5. Complete the other 2 houses in the same way. Use your creative skills to design doors and windows in different shapes if you like. You can make the houses narrower or shorter if you wish, by trimming some fabric from the basic house shapes.
Trees and bushes
1. Using the Summertime Streetscapes Wall Quilt pattern, trace the shapes for 2 trees, 2 bushes, and 2 tree trunks on the paper side of the HeatnBond EZPrint Feather Lite fusible web. You can also print the shapes directly onto the fusible web using an inkjet printer.
2. Cut out each shape, leaving about 1/8" of paper all around each shape.
3. Press the shapes on the backs of your chosen fabrics.
Background
For this project, I quilted the background before I did the applique. I sprayed the fabric with Best Mary Ellen's Best Press. This removes all the wrinkles from the fabric and gives it a little extra body. I used my full-size Oliso PRO TG1600 Pro Plus Smart Iron for this part. I also used this iron to press the backing, batting and background fabric together.
After the pieces were layered, I stitched straight lines ¼" to 5/8" apart, using my even feed (walking) foot. Now the background is ready for the applique shapes.
I hope you’ve enjoyed using HeatnBond EZ-Print Feather Lite fusible web, the Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron and the pressing mat on the Hemline Gold Multi-Use Craft Bag to create all the elements for this wall quilt.
4. Cut out each shape on the drawn lines.
2 houses with roofs, doors, and windows added
Press windows and doors in place.
Draw sashing lines on the windows and doors.
Print shrub and tree shapes on Feather Lite fusible web.
I put everything together to complete the quilt. I’m using UNIQUE applique pressing sheet, HeatnBond EZ-Print Feather Lite fusible web, the Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron as well as the handy pressing mat in the Hemline Gold Multi-Use Craft Bag
Press HeatnBond EZ-Print Feather Lite fusible web on the back of the 6" x 27" grass fabric. Cut the fusible web sheets into 6" strips to make a piece long enough to go across the grass fabric. You can cut a curvy edge at the top of the grass or leave it straight.
Carefully remove the fusible web paper backing from all the house, tree, bush, and grass shapes.
Using a design wall or similar surface, arrange your houses and bushes as desired on the quilted background. I like to pin all the pieces in place until I come up with an arrangement that I like.
When you’re satisfied with the placement of your pieces, press the houses and bushes in place on the quilted background. I used my Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron for this step as I found I had much better control in placing and fusing these small pieces in place.
Press the grass strip in place. Then place the tree shapes in place on the background.
Now your Summertime Streetscape is all ready for quilting!
Peel off paper backing.
Design elements are pinned in place.
All shapes are pressed in place.
After I finished my wall quilt, I realized that I still had several house and tree pieces left over, so I decided to make another small wall quilt.
Leftovers from the wall quilt
I used the same techniques that I used for the larger quilt to make the house, doors, windows etc. Again, I found that the Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron was perfect for pressing the small pieces together. It was also very convenient to use the pressing mat in the Hemline Gold Multi-Use Craft Bag.
I tried several different layouts for the “leftovers”.
One possible arrangement for the “leftovers”
Press the door shape on door frame fabric.
I finally came up with this arrangement and pinned it on my design wall. I just have to draw some lines on the windows and doors before pressing everything to the
I hope you’ll enjoy using some of the many products I tried this feature to create your own UNIQUE Summertime Streetscape Wall Quilt. The UNIQUE applique pressing Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron, the Mary Ellen's Best Press are all wonderful additions
jeanboyduppercanadaquiltworks.blogspot.com
Final arrangement of houses, trees, and bushes
My Little House Coaster 1 Paperless Piecing
I'm delighted to be back and share the knowledge gained from my recent exploration with the PFAFF creative icon 2 Sewing and Embroidery Machine. After months of dedicated research and experimentation, I've curated a series of four distinct techniques that aptly demonstrate the machine's exceptional capabilities, seamlessly bringing your creative ideas to life.
Today is the start of our journey, and our inaugural project is nothing short of captivating–a meticulously designed coaster featuring an enchanting house design. However, we're embarking on a challenge: mastering the art of stitching small pieces exclusively by machine. This endeavor holds particular significance for me, given that most of my projects and designs measure 6" x 6" or 9" x 9". I'm thrilled that the machine's performance exceeded expectations, effortlessly managing intricate stitching with remarkable precision. So, let’s switch on our machine and set everything for a perfect piecing project!
Let's begin by preparing our supplies for the coaster, ensuring everything is primed and ready for pure stitching fun.
materials
fabric
• 8½” x 11” warm ombre green fabric for quilt top block background
• 5½” x 9” warm yellow (orangeyellow/ brownyellow) with tiny print fabric for house roof
• 5½” x 10” ombre off-white fabric for house wall
• 4½” x 4” warm brown with tiny print or ombre fabric for door, chimney and under- roof details
• 2” x 2” blue fabric for the window
• 4” x 3” warm dark brown or black fabric for mosaic flower elements
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine first switch on
Olesya Lebedenko
Photos by Olesya Lebedenko
Sew this small house coaster with the PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine.
Fabric, threads, notions, and PFAFF machine needles and feet for our coaster with house piecing project
• 2½” x 2½” burgundy red fabric for mosaic flower elements
• 2” x 33” burgundy red fabric for the bias strip
• 11½” x 11½” of backing fabric
• 11½” x 11½” of batting thread
• 1 spool of Mettler 40wt polyester thread to match your main fabric
• bobbin wound with main fabric matching thread
• 1 spool of Mettler 40wt polyester thread to match the backing fabric
• bobbin wound with backing matching thread notions
We’ve gathered all the materials and are almost ready to start. On the welcome screen, touch Sewing option. Load the bobbin. Thread the machine. Attach the PFAFF ¼” Quilting Foot for the IDT System
Download and print the My Little House Coaster 1 pattern and cut out the templates. Click and download the pattern. Check the printer settings to print the actual size. Cut and glue pages 7 and 8 to create a 9” x 9” square block template.
Note: The templates don’t include a seam allowance
Cut the paper templates according to the assembly scheme on page 2 of the PDF pattern.
Flip and transfer all template pieces to the wrong side of the fabric. Cut with pinking shears with ¼” seam allowance. Mark the exterior sides. Cut with pinking shears with ¼” seam allowance for all inner sides and ½” for the exterior sides.
I love to start with a section where there are a lot of small pieces! And in this pattern, it's section D!
Transfer on the wrong side of the fabric all template pieces. Cut with pinking shears with ¼” seam allowance. Place pieces right sides together. Pin using the drawn line as a guide.
Trace and cut all the pieces with pinking shears with ¼” seam allowance according to the scheme on page 4. Put pieces with the right sides. Pin using the drawn line as a guide.
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen
PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine how to attach the ¼” Quilting Foot for the IDT System
Page 2 from the PDF file with the assembly scheme of the block
Page 4 from PDF file with the assembly scheme of the block’s section D. Steps D1 to D10
The traced and precut pieces for section D of the house block
Traced templates on the wrong side of the fabric. Cut with pinking shears with ¼” seam allowance. All pieces are pinned together according to the assembly scheme.
And now it’s time for a miracle! When stitching such tiny pieces, the advantage of working with the PFAFF creative icon 2 Sewing and Embroidery Machine is that as soon as you stop pressing the pedal, the presser foot goes half a step up! This gives you total control and maneuver for stitching correction if needed and removing the pins with no harm to the machine!
Continue putting together section D according to the assembly method on pages 4 and 5.
Our steps D1 - D15 are finished. Press the finished block to have crisp seams.
Finished steps D1 to D15 with patchwork flower. Showing the wrong and right sides after pressing.
Precut and place in order the pieces to finish section D and a piece for section E.
Pin and stitch pieces together according to steps D16-D27 on pages 5 and 6. Pin and stitch section pieces D and E. Press the finished block.
Finished steps D16 to D27 + section E showing the wrong and right sides after pressing
Precut and put in order pieces for sections A, B, and C. Follow the stitching order on page 3.
Pin and stitch pieces together according to the steps for sections A, B and C on page 3. Pin and stitch ready sections A, B, and C. Press the finished block.
Pin and stitch sections A, B, and C with sections D and E. One more time to mention one of my favorite functions! Stop stitching with a presser foot half step up position to place the seam allowance and remove the pins.
Press the finished block.
PFAFF creative icon 2 machine ¼” Quilting Foot for the IDT System
The traced and precut pieces for section D of the house block
The traced and precut pieces for sections D and E of the house block
The traced and precut pieces for sections A, B and C with the chimney and roof of the house
Finished steps for sections A, B and C. Showing the wrong and right sides after pressing.
The PFAFF creative icon 2 machine ¼” Quilting Foot for the IDT System in use
Here is the finished block for the top of the coaster, showing the wrong and right sides after pressing.
Make a quilt sandwich using lining fabric then a piece of batting, and the house quilt block on top facing right side up. Baste sandwich layers using Odif Temporary Adhesive spray.
Put the quilt sandwich with the house block, layer of batting and a piece of backing fabric. For basting use a temporary adhesive spray.
Attach the PFAFF 2A Fancy Stitch Foot for the IDT System and adjust the IDT System for smooth stitching.
Quilt the basted quilt sandwich in your favorite manner. For such patchwork designs, I prefer to quilt with simple straight lines.
Fold and press the bias strip. Place and clip the binding on the right side. Don’t forget to adjust the IDT System for smooth stitching before you start.
Using clips on the right side of the trimmed and quilted coaster.
Stitch with a ¼" seam allowance and stop when the front edge of the coaster reaches the notch a ¼” in front of the needle.
Sink the needle into the fabric, and raise the presser foot. Pivot the coaster 45 degrees and lower the presser foot. Continue stitching to the edge of the corner. To ensure the stitch is secure, use backstitching. Next, take the binding and flip it upwards over the edge while using your fingers to create a biased corner. Then, flip the binding back over itself while maintaining the bias crease you made. The binding should be aligned perfectly with the edge of the bias crease and the raw edge of the coaster when you line it back up; pin it if necessary. Afterward, bring the binding under the presser foot and sew a ¼” seam allowance, ensuring to backstitch at the start. Make all corners in the same manner.
Cut the extra bias if needed. Press the seam open. Finish the binding attachment.
Fold the bias to the back and press. Form the corners and clip. Blind stitch or machine stitch along the
The My Little House Coaster 1 is now complete. The paperless piecing technique was quick and stitching it on the marvellous PFAFF creative icon 2 Sewing and Embroidery Machine made it easy!
Let's delve into a captivating blend of embroidery and piecing for our next coaster. I'm heading off to prepare my fabric, gather threads, and set up the hoops, ensuring we're fully prepared for next adventure!
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 2A Fancy Stitch Foot for the IDT System
Trimming the quilted sandwich to size 9” x 9” square with a rotary cutter and a ruler
Finishing the binding attachment with the 2A Fancy Stitch Foot with adjusted IDT System
Form the corners and clip. Blind stitch or machine stitch along the coaster shape.
The finished patchwork coaster is fully stitched using the PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine
coaster shape.
My Little House Coaster 2 Machine Embroidery
Now, our focus shifts to creating a distinctive block piece by incorporating an embroidered flower. Let's take a moment to inspect our supplies for the coaster, ensuring that everything is set and prepared for the stitching process.
materials
fabric
• 8½” x 11” piece warm ombre green fabric for top block background
• 5½” x 9” piece warm yellow (orange-yellow/ brown-yellow) with tiny print fabric for house roof
• 13” x 12” piece ombre off-white fabric for house wall
• 4½” x 4” piece warm brown with tiny print or ombre fabric for door, chimney and under-roof details
• 2” x 2” piece of blue fabric for the window
• 2” x 33” bias strip of burgundy red fabric
• 11½” x 11½” piece of backing fabric
• 11½” x 11½” piece of batting thread
• 1 spool of Mettler 40wt polyester thread to match with your main fabric
• bobbin wound with main fabric matching thread
• 1 spool of Mettler 40wt polyester thread to match backing fabric
• bobbin wound with backing matching thread
• 1 spool of burgundy red Mettler 40wt embroidery polyester thread
notions
• Odif temporary adhesive spray
• patchwork clips and fine glass head pins
• sharp scissors and pinking shears
• 6” x 12” ruler and rotary cutter
• cutting mat and pencil
• water-soluble or heat-removable marker
• 1 sheet of transfer paper (optional)
• 11” x 11” piece PFAFF Tear-a-Way medium weight stabilizer
Fabric, threads, notions, and PFAFF machine needles and feet for our coaster with house piecing project
Download and print the My Little House Coaster 2 pattern and cut out our templates. When printing, check the printer settings to print the actual size. Cut and glue together pages 7 and 8 to create a 9” x 9” square block template. Trace and cut the piece of the house’s wall with a flower onto a tracing paper. Cut the pattern into templates. Please keep in mind that the templates DO NOT include the seam allowance
Once all the materials and templates are ready and time to switch on our machine and dive into the creative process. Click the embroidery mode on the welcome screen. Just a reminder that it is recommended to use the straight stitch plate for embroidery. However, if you forget to switch, the embroidery navigation on the screen will provide all the necessary recommendations and reminders before the embroidery process. To start we will need to attach 6D The Dynamic Spring Foot
A pop-up message prompts you to clear the embroidery arm and remove the hoop if attached before calibration. Tap 'OK,' and the machine will proceed to calibrate while the embroidery arm moves to the ready position. Next, click to select the hop size.
I’m using the creative 120 Square Hoop (120 x 120 mm) for this project. To hoop the fabric, prepare a sandwich with a layer of an 11” x 11” PFAFF Tear-a-Way medium-weight stabilizer piece and an 11” x 11” piece of ombre off-white fabric for the house wall with a right side at the top. Ensure that the layers are smooth and securely hooped together. Trace the house wall template with a watersoluble or heat-removable marker on the right side of the fabric.
Choose the needed hoop size. Click “Start Hoop Scan”. You will see the pop-up message to attach the hoop. To attach the hoop, slide the hoop connector into the hoop attachment from front to back until it clicks into place. Click “OK” on the screen.
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing and embroidery machine welcome screen and 6A Dynamic Spring Foot
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine creative 120 Square Hoop (120 x 120 mm)
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine creative 120 Square Hoop (120 x 120 mm)
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen
The hoop scan process won't take long! In the meantime, measure the wall template. Our final embroidery size should be approximately 55 mm x 60 mm. We'll use these measurements to set the flower size very soon!
We made the main preparation and it’s the best time to pick up the embroidery design, to set a size and illuminate it using a projector on the correct spot on the house’s wall.
What I adore about PFAFF creative icon 2 is a built-in embroidery design library!!! There are so many gorgeous varieties! To load a design for editing on a screen click “Edit design”. Scroll to the “Flowers and Leaves” category. For our coaster, I picked up flower design#6. Click on Flower #6 to load the design for editing.
Click the Projection icon and set the background color and the LED Work Light level by moving the indicator.
Time to size and place our embroidery flower. Click “Edit design” on a work panel. Click the resize icon. In a pop-up window enter the size. For our project, I recommend starting with 55 x 56. Check how projection looks on a fabric. Click the icon again if any changes are required and edit the measurements. I chose to resize it to 54.9 x 55.8 since it looks great on the wall piece.
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen
The ruler and cut trace paper template for the house
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine creative 120 Square Hoop (120 x 120 mm)
We are all set for embroidery. Click the GO icon. On a machine panel press the start button. And enjoy watching it stitch to perfection.
For this embroidery size, it could take approximately 10 minutes.
To remove the hoop from the embroidery arm, press and hold the gray button on the hoop attachment, then slide the hoop towards you. Carefully unhoop your finished masterpiece. Wash the piece to remove the stabilizer, let it dry, and press it. Trace the wall template onto the wrong side of the fabric, then cut with a ¼” seam allowance. Now, we're ready to assemble our house block. Click the menu button at the top of the screen. Click the sewing mode.
Attach PFAFF ¼” Quilting Foot for IDT System for stitching our block. Follow the assembly order in your printed pattern. For more details read my previous article.
The basics of the process are to flip and transfer all template pieces on the wrong side of the fabric. Cut with pinking shears with ¼” seam allowance. Mark the exterior sides. Cut with pinking shears with ¼” seam allowance for all inner sides and ½” for the exterior sides.
I recommend starting with section D as there are a lot of small pieces to stitch together.
Pin and stitch pieces together according to steps D1-D6 on page 4. Press the finished block.
Continue putting together section D according to the order of assembly on pages 5 and 6, after finishing section D pin a piece from section E and stitch it together. Press the finished block to have crisp seams.
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen
Finished steps D7 to D17 + section E showing the wrong and right sides after pressing
Finished steps D1 to D6 showing the wrong and right sides after pressing
Put in order pieces for sections A, B, and C. Follow the order of stitching on page 3 to finish the roof and chimney of the house.
To finish our block pin and stitch together pieces A, B, and C with pieces D and E. Press the finished block.
Finished steps for sections A, B and C. Showing the wrong and right sides after pressing.
Make a quilt sandwich using the housetop block, then a piece of batting, and a lining fabric. Baste sandwich layers using Odif Temporary Adhesive spray.
Here is the finished block for the top of the coaster, showing the wrong and right sides after pressing.
Quilt the basted quilt sandwich in the same method as in my previous article.
Trim the quilted coaster to 9” x 9”. Sew on the binding following the instructions from Coaster 1. Fold the binding to the back and press. Clip the binding along the coaster shape paying special attention to folding the corners.
To finish the binding I decided to add a fancy stitch. Click the “Stitch Creator” icon. Scroll to “Quilting Stitches”. I used stitch#8. For the best result click and switch on the projector.
Attach the PFAFF 2A Fancy Stitch Foot for the IDT System and adjust the IDT System for smooth stitching. Stitch along the shape following the projector lines. For smooth and easy stitching remove the clips as you go.
We've successfully finished My Little House Coaster 2 featuring a charming, embroidered flower. By utilizing so many functions, we created a unique coaster that seamlessly blends piecing and embroidery.
This is just the beginning! We have two more exciting projects and techniques ahead, so stay tuned as we continue to explore the endless possibilities with the PFAFF creative icon 2
Form the corners and clip. Clip the binding along the coaster shape.
My Little House Coaster 3 Machine Raw Edge Applique
We'll push the PFAFF creative icon 2 Sewing and Embroidery Machine's capabilities even further by testing how effortlessly it can stitch through multiple layers of fabric and stabilizer. We'll also explore the ease of creating raw edge applique with the PFAFF 6D Dynamic Spring Foot. By the end of the article, we'll have crafted a third beautiful house-shaped coaster!
Now, let's take a moment to check our supplies for the coaster, ensuring everything is organized and ready for sewing. materials
fabric
• 9½” x 9” piece of backing fabric
• 4½” x 9½” piece warm yellow (orange-yellow/ brown-yellow) with tiny print fabric for house roof
• 6” x 8½” piece ombre off-white fabric for house wall
• 4” x 4” piece warm brown with tiny print or ombre fabric for door and under-roof details
• 2” x 2” piece of blue fabric for the window
• 4” x 4” piece of deep ombre green for flower leaves
• 2½” x 2½” piece of burgundy red fabric for flower petals thread
• 1 spool of Mettler 40wt polyester thread to match with your house wall fabric
• bobbin wound with main fabric matching thread
• 1 spool of Mettler 40wt polyester thread to match backing fabric
• bobbin wound with backing matching thread
• 1 spool of blue Mettler 40wt polyester thread to match window fabric
• 1 spool of green Mettler 40wt polyester thread to match flower leaves fabric
• 1 spool of burgundy red Mettler 40wt embroidery polyester thread
notions
• stiletto and fabric glue pen
• patchwork clips and fine glass head pins
• ½” x 6” lace piece (optional)
• sharp scissors and pinking shears
• 6” x 12” ruler and rotary cutter
• cutting mat and pencil
• water-soluble or heat-removable marker
• 1 sheet of transfer paper (optional)
• 9” x 16” piece of ultra-firm stabilizer (such as Pellon 70 Peltex Sew-In Ultra Firm Stabilizer)
• 3” x 9” piece of Lite Steam-A-Seam 2 Double Stick Fusible Web
• PFAFF Universal Needles Size 80 or 90
• PFAFF Quilting Needles Size 90/14
• PFAFF Titanium Embroidery needle size 90
Fabric, threads, notions, and PFAFF machine needles and feet for our house shape coaster with machine raw edge applique
feet/machine accessories suggestions
• 6A Embroidery/Sensormatic FreeMotion Foot
• 6D The Dynamic Spring Foot
• PFAFF ¼” Quilting Foot for IDT System
Download and print the My Little House Coaster 3 pattern and cut out our templates. Make sure your printer settings are set to print at the actual size. Glue pages 5 and 6 together to create the house and roof templates. Keep in mind that the templates already include the seam allowance, which is shown as a dashed line around the pattern.
Let's prepare all our templates for use. Start by creating a clear guide for placing the applique elements. Trace the house wall from page 4 onto transfer paper without including the seam allowance. Then, draw all the applique elements from page 3 onto the traced wall. Cut out the completed transfer paper template.
Next, cut out the wall and roof parts with seam allowances from page 4. Using transfer paper, trace and cut out one roof pattern with the seam allowance and one roof pattern without the seam allowance. Cut the house template with the seam allowance. From page 3, cut the house silhouette. Finally, don't forget to cut out the applique elements. Take the Wall seam allowance pattern and cut the applique elements.
Time for my favorite part - switching on our PFAFF creative icon 2. On a welcome screen touch the Sewing option. Load the bobbin. Thread the machine. Attach PFAFF ¼” Quilting Foot for IDT System
Transfer on the wrong side of the fabric the external and internal templates. Cut with pinking shears along the external line. In the same manner trace and precut all house pieces for the front and the back side of the coaster.
Place pieces right sides together. Pin using the drawn line as a guide. Stitch removing the pins as you go.
Place the wall and roof pieces right sides together. Pin them using the drawn line as a guide. TIP When using pinking shears with a slight curve, you don't need extra clips. Stitch along the pinned line, removing the pins as you go. Trim the seam allowance to ¼” along the stitched edges using pinking shears.
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen
PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine how to attach the ¼” Quilting Foot for the IDT System close-up
The templates are traced on the wrong side of the fabric. Cut with pinking shears.
The PFAFF creative icon 2 machine ¼” Quilting Foot for the IDT System
The PFAFF creative icon 2 machine ¼” Quilting Foot for the IDT System
The PFAFF creative icon 2 machine ¼” Quilting Foot for the IDT System
Trimming the seam allowance to ¼” along the stitched edges using pinking shears
Press with steam to achieve crisp, flat seams. Using the tracing paper house template (without seam allowance), trace the house silhouette on the wrong side of the stitched front piece.
Gluing the stabilizer piece to the wrong side of the fabric, aligning the stabilizer piece with the traced silhouette of the house.
Clip the curves and corners, being careful not to cut into the traced line or stabilizer. Using a fabric glue pencil, draw a glue line. With a stiletto, fold and press the seams to adhere them. Continue gluing the seams along the house shape. Finish the second side of the house in the same manner.
Trace two shapes of the house in a mirror image onto the ultra-firm stabilizer and cut them out without adding seam allowances. Using a fabric glue pencil, draw a glue line around the traced shapes. Flip the stabilizer pieces and glue them to the wrong side of the fabric, aligning them with the traced silhouette of the house.
Clipped curves and corners around the shape. Using a fabric glue pencil, draw a glue line. With a stiletto, fold and press the seams to adhere them.
Time to trace and cut out our applique elements. Using a pencil, trace the door and window silhouettes, 9 leaves, 2 flower stems, and 2 flower buds onto the Double Stick Fusible Web sheet. Cut these out without adding a seam allowance. Remove the paper from one side of the web. Glue each element to the wrong side of the appropriate fabric. Cut the glued pieces with straight scissors, again adding no seam allowance. Then, remove the paper from the wrong side of the fabric of each applique element.
If you have any trouble removing the paper backing from your applique shape, gently score the backing paper with a pin and peel it away from the scored section.
Finished front side of the house pressing process
Finished front side of the house after pressing; tracing the house silhouette on the wrong side of finished front house side
Precut house side from ultra firm stabilizer applying the fabric glue along the shape
The wrong side of the finished glued seams along the house shape.
The front side of the house with the finished and glued seams to the wrong side along the shape.
the door and window silhouettes, 9
Cut the applique elements on a fusible web without adding a seam allowance. Remove the paper from one side of the web. Glue each element to the wrong side of the appropriate fabric.
Cut the glued applique elements with straight scissors, adding no seam allowance. Removing the paper from the wrong side of the fabric of each applique element.
For a perfect applique layout, use our clear template with the traced applique elements. Place the template on the front side of the house and arrange all the applique elements using the traced template as a guide. Press the completed applique layout. Be sure to read the instructions for the brand of fusible web you’re using, as different brands have different heat settings for the iron.
Using the traced template as a guide arrange all the applique elements in place and glue.
Click the Sewing mode on the welcome screen. To start, we will need to attach the 6D The Dynamic Spring Foot. As soon as you attach the foot, the Free-Motion Options window will pop up on your screen. Click the “Dynamic Spring (e.g. 6D)” option. For free-motion sewing on an ultra-firm stabilizer, I recommend using PFAFF Quilting Needles Size 90/14 or PFAFF Denim Needles Size 90/14
Load the thread in the desired color and free-motion stitch along the edge of each applique element. I usually stitch twice around each element.
Avoid pushing or pulling your work while sewing, which may distort the stitching. Let the machine feed your work through at its own pace and enjoy the process of free-motion stitching.
During free-motion sewing, your PFAFF creative icon 2 might display a pop-up message if something is wrong with the upper thread. Don't worry; it could just be due to the speed.
Simply rethread, tap “OK,” and continue free-motion stitching.
With a heat-removable marker, draw the berries. Make several looping freemotion stitches for each berry. Cut the thread after stitching each berry.
Place both house pieces with the wrong sides together. Create a lace loop and insert it between the house sides. Clip around the house shape.
Traced
leaves, 2 flower stems, and 2 flower buds onto the Double Stick Fusible Web sheet
Pressing the completed applique layout
The PFAFF machine needle pack
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen
Place both house pieces with the wrong sides together.
Use the 6A Embroidery/Sensormatic Free-Motion Foot for stitching, which is versatile, and ideal for stippling, free-motion embroidery, and darning. When attaching the presser foot, align the pins on the foot with the gap below the presser foot holder. Press upwards firmly until the foot securely snaps into place.
Here’s how this gem works: at low speeds, the presser foot raises and lowers with each stitch, holding the fabric layers against the stitch plate for stitch formation. At higher speeds, the presser foot glides over the fabric, ensuring smooth movement and precise sewing. My choice is the middle speed for more control. As soon as the foot is connected to your screen the Free-Motion Options window pops up. Click the “Sensormatic (e.g. 6A)” option and start stitching. Stitch along the edge of the house shape. To create more structure, also stitch along the roof shape.
Our third house-shaped coaster is finished! It was incredibly enjoyable working with the PFAFF creative icon 2 Sewing and Embroidery Machine and utilizing a variety of presser feet. Together, we crafted a unique coaster that seamlessly blends raw edge applique and free-motion stitching.
Folded lace to create a loop.
The front and back sides of the house clipped with the wrong sides together around the shape.
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine is switched on.
The finished patchwork coaster is fully stitched using the PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine.
My Little House Coaster 4
Hoop
Applique
Is the perfect time to try something completely new. I've never made an applique in a hoop before, but it’s my favorite technique after trying it. Before we dive into the process, let's check our supplies for My Little House Coaster 4!
materials
fabric
• 10½” x 10½” piece warm ombre green fabric for top block background
• 4” x 8½” piece warm yellow (orange-yellow/ brown-yellow) with tiny print fabric for house roof
• 13” x 13” piece ombre off-white fabric for house wall
• 13” x 13” piece burgundy red fabric for flower applique
• 3” x 5” piece warm brown with tiny print or ombre fabric for door, chimney and under-roof details
• 1½” x 1½” piece blue fabric for the window
• 2” x 33” lace piece (or 2” x 33” 1 bias strip of burgundy red fabric)
• 11½” x 11½” piece of backing fabric
• 11½” x 11½” piece of batting thread
• 1 spool of Mettler 40wt polyester thread to match with your main fabric
• bobbin wound with main fabric matching thread
• 1 spool of Mettler 40wt polyester thread to match backing fabric
• bobbin wound with backing matching thread
• 1 spool of burgundy red Mettler 40wt embroidery polyester thread
• 1 spool of black Mettler 40wt embroidery polyester thread notions
• Odif temporary adhesive spray
• patchwork clips and fine glass head pins
• sharp scissors and pinking shears
• 6” x 12” ruler and rotary cutter
• cutting mat and pencil
• water-soluble or heat-removable marker
• 1 sheet of transfer paper (optional)
• 9” x 12” 1 sheet of Lite Steam-A-Seam 2 Double Stick Fusible Web
• 11” x 11” 1 piece PFAFF Tear-a-Way medium weight stabilizer
Fabric, threads, notions, and PFAFF machine needles and feet for our coaster with house piecing project
We begin by clicking on mySewnet on our welcome screen and signing in or creating an account in the library.
mySewnet is an online platform that sewing enthusiasts will love. It offers a wide range of tools and resources to enhance your sewing projects. With access to a huge design library, advanced design editing tools, and convenient cloud storage, mySewnet makes it easy to find inspiration, customize your projects, and keep everything organized. You can even find free patterns available for download, making it easier to start new projects at no extra cost.
Exciting news: mySewnet is offering a 30-day free trial of EMBROIDERY SOFTWARE PLATINUM. This is a brilliant opportunity to explore all the features the software offers, including advanced editing options, a vast array of embroidery designs, and tools to create and customize your patterns.
Download and print the My Little House Coaster 4 pattern and cut out our templates. Make sure your printer settings are set to print at actual size. Cut pages 4 and 5 and glue them together to form a 9” x 9” square block template. Remember, the templates are already at actual size and do not require any seam allowance.
Let's get our templates ready for use. Begin with tracing the house silhouette on a transfer paper. Cut out the printed and glued house silhouette. Next what we need to create is a clear guide for positioning the applique elements. Use transfer paper to trace the house wall along with the applique elements layout and cut out the completed transfer paper template. Cut out the house silhouette templates. Finally, remember to cut out the applique elements.
I’m using the creative 120 Square Hoop (120 x 120 mm) for this coaster project. To hoop the fabric, prepare a sandwich with all right sides up layer: the 13” x 13” piece ombre off-white fabric for the house wall, the 11” x 11” PFAFF Tear-a-Way medium weight stabilizer piece, and the 13” x 13” piece burgundy red fabric for flower applique.
Before hooping take a threaded needle and at the left top burgundy red fabric make a loose stitch. Hoop the sandwich. Ensure that the layers are smooth and securely hooped together. Take a pin and wrap the thread. This loop will be a game changer just wait for it!
The next steps are similar to those in the My Little House Coaster 2 | Machine Embroidery article.
Here's what to do: click on the Embroidery mode from the welcome screen. I recommend using the standard zigzag stitch plate for applique. However, if you forget to switch, the embroidery navigation on the screen will provide all the necessary recommendations and reminders before the applique process.
To start, attach the 6D The Dynamic Spring Foot and calibrate the embroidery arm. Choose the needed hoop size and click Start Hoop Scan. You’ll see a pop-up message to attach the hoop. To attach the hoop, slide the hoop connector into the hoop attachment from front to back until it clicks into place. Click OK on the pop-up message. The scan process for this size hoop will take approximately 2 minutes. Since all our coasters are the same size, our final flower applique should be approximately 55 mm x 60 mm.
On your PFAFF creative icon 2 screen, press the Applique Creator icon with a globe. This will take you directly to the mySewnet design library. Search by entering Applique. Scroll and pick any desired design; the choices are above all expectations. For this house project, I chose Flower 261. Click on the flower design to load it for editing.
Now we can modify the size. Click the Resize icon and use the control points to resize to approximately 52.5 x 51 mm. Click the Resize icon again to return to the main editor screen. One more click on the Edit design icon to fine-tune our applique flower size. After making several appliques, I recommend a flower size of 55.7 x 54.1 mm for this size project.
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen and a screen print of the mySewnet library page
The print screen of mySewnet library page with free pattern for downloading
The print screen of mySewnet subscription plans page with four subscription levels
The applique sandwich for PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine creative 120 Square Hoop (120 x 120 mm)
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine creative 120 Square Hoop (120 x 120 mm)
When finished resizing the flower, save your flower for future projects so you won’t need to repeat the steps. Lastly, check and set the background color red and the LED Work Light level using the Projector icon by moving the indicator.
Move the flower in position on the house. The projection will follow your finger’s every move.
Ready for applique. Click the “GO” icon on the screen. On the machine panel, press the start button. The first step of the hoop applique is ghost stitching, which double-stitches the silhouette of our flower. Once the outline stitches are done, I remove the hoop from the machine. Without removing the fabric from the hoop, and carefully pull the thread loop to the top fabric layer. Make a clip with small scissors and trim the applique close to the edge of the stitches. That tiny thread loop keeps the sandwich secure!
Load the black or dark brown thread for flower stamens and press OK on a pop-up window on the screen. Click the GO icon. On the machine panel press the start button.
One more pop-up window will prompt you to reload the thread for the petals. Rethread the top thread and press OK on the pop-up window on your screen. Click the GO icon. On the machine panel, press the start button. In approximately 10 minutes, your flower applique will be embroidered.
Carefully unhoop your finished masterpiece. Trim and wash the piece to remove the stabilizer, let it dry, and press it. For best pressing results, I fold the batting in several layers, place the right side of the applique on the batting, and press from the wrong side. That gives a perfect and flat piece with a secure applique.
Finished applique flower on the front side of the house pressing process
Trace the wall template onto the right side of the fabric. And now to assemble all our applique elements to finish the house.
Using a pencil, trace the house, door, and window silhouettes onto the Double Stick Fusible Web sheet. Cut these out without adding a seam allowance.
front side of
Trace the house silhouette on the right side of the 10½” x 10½” piece of warm ombre green background fabric using a pastel or chalk pencil. Why do I not recommend using markers? First, if using a heat-removable marker and pressing is involved, the lines will need to be retraced each time. If using watersoluble markers, some markers could stain when pressed leaving unwanted lines. Therefore, pastel or chalk pencils are brilliant for this purpose. Remove the paper from one side of the fusible web and glue each element to the wrong side of the appropriate fabric.
the glued applique
with
Finished
the house after pressing; tracing the house wall on the right side of the finished front house side with machine hoop applique
Traced the silhouettes of the house, roof, door and window, onto the Double Stick Fusible Web sheet
Tracing the house silhouette on the right side of the background fabric on the cutting mat
Cut
elements
straight scissors, adding no seam allowance. Remove the paper from the wrong side of the fabric of each applique element.
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen
Cut the glued pieces with straight scissors, again adding no seam allowance. Then, remove the paper from the wrong side of the fabric of each applique element. Flip the stabilizer pieces and glue them to the right side of the background fabric, aligning them with the traced silhouette of the house.
Make a quilt sandwich using the glued house top block, then a piece of batting, and a lining fabric. Baste sandwich layers using Odif Temporary Adhesive Spray
Click the Sewing mode on the welcome screen. Attach the PFAFF 2A Fancy Stitch Foot for IDT System and set up a stitch. Click the Load Stitch icon. Choose Utility Stitch 12. Set width 3.6 and length 1. Remember to save our stitch. I recommend using PFAFF Quilting Needles Size 90/14.
For a perfect applique layout on a house wall, use our clear template with the traced applique elements. Place the template on the front side of the house and arrange all the applique elements using the traced template as a guide. Press the completed applique layout. Be sure to read the instructions for the brand of fusible web you’re using, as different brands have different heat settings for the iron.
Tracing the house silhouette on the right side of the background fabric on the cutting mat
Cut the glued applique elements with straight scissors, adding no seam allowance. Remove the paper from the wrong side of the fabric of each applique element.
Press to glue the Double Stick Fusible Web wall piece to the wrong side of the wall.
Press the completed applique layout.
Put the quilt sandwich with the house block, layer of batting and a piece of backing fabric. For basting use a temporary adhesive spray.
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen
to attach the 2A Fancy
for the
Load the thread in the desired color and zigzag along the edge of each applique element. I usually stitch twice around each element to have the same stitch view as our machine applique flower. Avoid pushing or pulling your work while sewing, as this may distort the stitching. Let the machine feed your work through at its own pace and enjoy the process of stitching.
For the window, reload the thread and switch to a straight stitch. Make two straight stitching lines.
Close-up of window straight stitching with a 2A Fancy Stitch Foot for the IDT System; cutting the thread; close-up demoing the result
To switch back to the zigzag stitch, click the folder icon and load the saved stitch! Finish the window applique.
Trim the quilted coaster sandwich to a 9” x 9” size. For the binding, I’m using a lace trim. Visually divide the lace into thirds. Place the lace so that at least ½” extends above the edge. Fold the lace to cover the raw edge and clip it to keep the lace in place.
Stitch with a straight stitch along the side to the corner. Fold the corner. Clip and stitch. Repeat on all corners. Fold the raw lace edges and stitch to finish the lace bias.
Click the Stitch Creator icon and set the straight stitch. Don’t forget to adjust the IDT™ System for smooth stitching before starting.
How
Stitch Foot
IDT System on the PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine
Trim the quilt sandwich to size 9” x 9” square with a rotary cutter and a ruler.
Clipping the lace as binding of the coaster before stitching with 2A Fancy Stitch Foot for the IDT System
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 10.1inch capacitive touchscreen
The PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine 2A Fancy Stitch Foot for the IDT System
Adjusting the lace as binding of the coaster with 2A Fancy Stitch Foot for the IDT System
Forming the corners of the coaster with 2A Fancy Stitch Foot for the IDT System
Our coaster is READY!!!
As we wrap up our series of four My Little House Coasters showcasing different techniques, I hope you enjoyed exploring the amazing features of the PFAFF creative icon 2 Sewing and Embroidery Machine. From intricate piecing and creative embroidery to the precision of raw edge applique and the versatility of in-the-hoop designs, this machine has truly brought our Little Houses to life!
Thank you for following along on my creative adventure. Your enthusiasm and support have made it all the more rewarding. Until our next project, happy sewing and stitching!
Always yours, Olesya
Four finished coasters in Paperless Piecing technique, Machine Embroidery, Raw Edge applique and Hoop Machine Applique techniques fully stitched and appliqued on PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine
Olesya Lebedenko olesya-l-design.com
Adjusting the lace as binding of the coaster with 2A Fancy Stitch Foot for the IDT System
The finished coaster is fully stitched and appliqued on the PFAFF creative icon 2 sewing machine.
I'm excited to share in this feature how I'm using using the Husqvarna VIKING Opal 690Q to make some accessories for the backyard.
I recently purchased patio chairs, as our others were toast by the end of last season. While shopping, I spotted a new table, as the old one looked shabby. Well, new furniture requires new accessories!
I love being able to sew anything I want! I can't imagine a house without a sewing machine!
Today is all about gathering the supplies and the accessories for the sewing machine, which is the hardest part of any project!
As mentioned, I'll use the Opal 690Q, a fantastic sewing machine. What I love is that it's lightweight, so it's perfect for taking to sewing days and retreats, yet it packs a punch and has some great bells and whistles to make it an excellent choice for your sewing room.
I'll focus on making a project with the Opal 690Q. If you want to get a review of the sewing machine and all of its great features, check out this QUILTsocial blog post. Use the links at the bottom of that post to move through all five blog posts.
If you want more information about the Opal 690Q, I played with it again in this series of QUILTsocial blog posts. Again, scroll through all five of the posts.
Those posts have some great sewing tips and techniques, so check them out.
Now, let's start the gathering process!
Another great resource is the Husqvarna VIKING Accessory User's Guide Inside, there's a chart that identifies the Machine Category for all the Husqvarna VIKING sewing and embroidery machines. The Opal 690Q is a Category 7. When I shop for accessories, I know anything with a seven on the packaging will work.
The other reason the Accessory Catalogue is excellent is that I can find detailed instructions in the catalogue if I have a presser foot I'm unsure how to use.
The Accessory User's Guide is available to download for free, so check out the link above. You can browse the catalogue online or download it. I like to download it to my tablet to browse at my leisure. I wouldn't bother printing it – save some trees and look at it online.
Gathering supplies
It's time to gather the supplies, the most challenging task when starting a new project. It's better to take the time at the beginning to get everything so the project doesn't stall because you can't find something you need. No one needs another UFO!
I plan to make cushions for the new chairs and placemats for the new table. I bought a variety of outdoor fabrics that I'll mix and match. I'm adding some piping, and using the solid blue fabric for that accent.
by
Husqvarna VIKING Opal 690Q sewing machine
Photos
Elaine Theriault
User's Guide for the Opal 690Q
The Accessory User's Guide
The fabrics for my cushions and placemats
I debated prewashing these fabrics, but the content is 100% polyester, so I won't have to worry about shrinkage. So, no prewashing. I did a rough calculation to figure out how much I need; if I have extra, I can use it for something else. The fabric is 54" wide, and I have 1 meter of each color.
I found some great pillow inserts! I was excited because they are indoor/outdoor, which is perfect! They come in two sizes – 16" square and 18" square Fairfield Poly-fil Indoor/Outdoor
Pillow Insert also comes in a 12" x 18" rectangular size.
I have some HeatnBond Iron-on Fusible Non-Woven Interfacing that I plan to use in the placemats. I think two layers of the decorator fabric will be too limp, and I don't want to quilt the placemats, so the interfacing should be sufficient to give the placemats some extra body.
I plan to topstitch the placemats with this Gütermann 30-weight cotton thread If you were paying attention, you would remember that I'm using polyester fabric and cotton thread. I'm OK with that – I could have used polyester thread for the topstitching, but I found cotton.
Oh my – look at this treasure. It's a box of Gütermann 50-weight cotton thread There are 48 gorgeous colors, making picking the appropriate color for sewing the projects easily. I can't wait to bind a quilt because finding a matching color in this collection box will be easy. I might have to do a bonus project to try these colors for decorative thread work. You can never have too much thread!
I'll use COSTUMAKERS Invisible Closed End Zippers and have several colors to mix and match with the pillows. Not that anyone will see them as they will be invisible, but it looks more exciting than one color! I always buy a longer-thanneeded zipper and will cut off the excess. These zippers are 22" long. The most common lengths for invisible zippers are 8" or 22", so you don't have a lot of choice, but it’s easy to cut off the excess.
Let's gather the presser feet for the Opal 690Q.
First on the list is the invisible zipper foot There's both a clear and a metal option, and both work equally well. Some people prefer the clear one because they feel they can see better.
I want to add piping to the placemats and the cushions, so I have yards of piping cord. There are three piping presser feet, depending on the size of the piping cord: the Mega Piping Foot, the Piping Foot, and the Mini Piping Foot. Don't forget the two options for welting. As I explained in this QUILTsocial blog post, welting is another word for piping in the home-dec world. There's a single and a double welt presser foot. I'll use the single welt foot for the piping or, technically, the welting for the placemats and the cushions.
To add variety, I'll color block one side of each cushion and placemat while leaving the other solid. Instead of a regular seam, I thought trying the FlatFelled Foot would be fun. I've never used one, so I'm excited to see how it works. Notice the machine categories (in circles) on the packaging. The Opal 690Q is a Category 7 sewing machine.
I'm excited to get started for a couple of reasons. Starting a new project is always exciting, but I want to see those cushions and placemats in my backyard! Be sure to follow along as I go through the steps, and I'm sure we'll all learn something new!
I've got the Husqvarna VIKING Opal 690Q set up and the supplies and sewing machine accessories organized, so I'm ready to start!
Square Indoor/Outdoor Pillow Insert
Rectangular Indoor/Outdoor Pillow Insert
A thread collection with 48 gorgeous colors
Invisible zippers
Two options for the invisible zipper foot
Piping and welt cord presser feet and the piping cord
Flat Felled Foot 9mm
Interfacing and 30-weight thread
Right tools make cutting large pieces for perfect patio cushions a snap
It's a pleasure to start working on a project when all the supplies are together. There's no need to stop and search for something, although I bet I add a few things as I go – it's hard to remember everything!
I've added the extension table to the Husqvarna VIKING Opal 690Q, so I'm ready to sew, but today, it's all about prepping the fabric so we can get to sewing.
The pieces I'm cutting for the placemats and the cushion covers are large and are never my favorite thing to cut. However, I'm using the OMNIGRIP 20½" Square Ruler, which makes it much more manageable. The other thing is having a large cutting mat and a CLEAR work surface.
I contemplated cutting the placemats with a curved edge to match the curve of the table but decided it would be simpler to cut rectangles. I don't want the job to become more complicated than it needs to be. Remember the motto - keep it simple!
One side of the placemats will be a single piece of fabric, and the second side will have one flat-felled seam.
I cut the single pieces at 12½" x 18½", and the pieces for the seamed side were cut at 13½" x 21", and I'll trim them once the seam is complete.
To add to the fun of that flat-felled seam, it'll be on an angle, which doesn't suit this diagonal print, but let's just wing it!
I could have used the angle on the fabric, but the seam wasn't going to be where I wanted it to be, so I ignored the pattern. It's fun to throw things off balance and not follow the "rules!" I had layered all four pieces together and made one cut through them all.
Then, I could swap the pieces to see what the placemat will look like. I like how that diagonal print looks with the wonky cut. It's not predictable, and that suits me fine.
Then, I cut the squares for the 16" cushions. I used the striped fabric for one side of the cushions and cut those squares at 16½". I used the same two green fabrics for the pieced side of the cushion and cut them at an angle that worked for the square. These are cushions for my backyard; I can do what I want!
I cut the squares for the pieced side of the cushions at 17½" and will trim them after I sew them together.
Again, I layered all the pieces right side up, cut through all four, and swapped two fabrics.
The pieces for the second side of the cushions
The next step was to cut the interfacing for the placemats. I cut four pieces at 12½" x 18½", and again, it was super easy to cut with that large square ruler and a CLEAR cutting space.
Cutting the large rectangles
Making a diagonal cut
The cut for the second side
The pieces for the second side of the placemat
The square for the cushions
Since I was in the process of cutting, I forged ahead to cut the bias strips needed for the piping. Even though the correct term in the home-dec world is welting, and I'll use a single- welt presser foot, I'll refer to it as piping.
How wide of a strip do I need? Your strips should be wide enough to cover the diameter of the cording, and then add the seam allowances. My cord is 3/8", and with the ¼" seam allowances, I cut the bias strips at 1½". I can trim any of the excess seam allowances when I get there.
While I like continuous bias binding, I cut strips for this project rather than work with one large square. I cut a strip the width of fabric (54") x about 18". Then, I cut on a 45-degree angle using my long ruler.
Before I knew it, I had that entire piece of fabric cut into 1½" strips. That was so easy, using my 8½" x 24" OMNIGRIP ruler It wasn't long enough, but I carefully moved the ruler to finish the cut. I cannot stress enough how much easier it is to cut something when the cutting area is clear!
It's time to fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the striped fabric, which is the solid piece. That was an easy task using my Singer Steam Press. I usually use the cotton setting, but because of my polyester fabric, I lowered the temperature, which is easy to do and worked like a charm.
I'm currently not in my home studio as I work on these projects. I'm at a quilt retreat, and while I only needed that steam press to fuse the four placemats, it was worth carrying it with me to do that. It saves so much time. I see that it's time to clean that metal pressing plate. Oh!
I wanted to dress up those placemats by rounding the corners. OK – I'll confess –applying the piping to a rounded corner is much easier than a square one! I didn't bring a curved template, but no worries; I found a bowl in the kitchen that worked like a charm. I used my handy Chaco Liner (white) and rotary cutter to round the corners.
Those rounded corners look way more exciting than the square ones, and attaching the piping will be a breeze.
I also want to deal with the corners of the cushions to eliminate the dog ears that happen when you make cushions with square corners. Shaving off part of the corners reduces the dog ears' size and makes it easier to apply the piping. I've made enough cushions and was tired of measuring the slivers I cut from each corner, so I made a template. The sliver I cut is ½" and about 4" long.
I use a ruler next to the edge of the template and cut the slivers away. It's super easy to cut.
Before I knew it, all the pieces were prepped and ready for sewing. Once I complete the seam for each piece, I'll trim those pieces to the correct size and round or trim the corners on those pieces as well.
So, while I didn't get a chance to get any sewing done on the Husqvarna VIKING Opal 690Q, it's set up and ready to sew. I have the flat-felled foot set aside, and you'll see how that works.
The interfacing for the placemats
A 45-degree angle cut for the bias strips Bias strips
Using the steam press to fuse the interfacing
Rounding the edges of the placemat
Rounded corners versus square corners
A template for shaving the corners of a cushion
Cutting the slivers off the corners
How to sew a Flat Felled Seam
The Flat Felled Foot 9mm presser foot was easy to install; it just snaps onto the ankle. It extends quite far in front of the presser foot ankle, and I removed it whenever I had to change the bobbin, which was no big deal since it’s easy to snap on and off.
I had never used this foot before and had no idea how it worked. That wasn’t an issue, as I grabbed my Husqvarna VIKING Accessory User’s Guide for the step-by-step instructions.
I got out that gorgeous box of Gütermann Nostalgia thread to pick a color. My retreat group had quite the discussion – should I choose a matching or contrasting thread? We settled on a matching thread, and I’ll use the contrasting thread for topstitching the placemats.
It’s time to sew. If you want the flat felled seam to show on the right side of your project, as in a pair of jeans, the first seam is with the wrong sides together. If you want the flat felled seam inside, sew it with the right sides together. That concept goes against the grain of our sewing, and I had to rip one of the seams. OK – I had to rip out more than one seam!
The seam allowances are 5/8”, and you trim ¼” away from one of the seam allowances. I had left extra fabric, so I offset the two pieces by ¼”. They’ll get trimmed up once they are together.
You may want to lengthen the stitch length depending on the thickness of the fabric. Even though I’m using decorator fabric, the fabric is not super thick. I left the stitch length at the default of 2.5.
Each flat felled seam consists of two lines of stitching. For the first seam, line up the rightmost edge of the fabric with the right edge of the flat felled seam presser foot. That’s the 5/8” mark from the needle. The second (shorter edge) is lined up with a red mark on the inside of the foot.
That makes it absolutely a breeze to get the two pieces lined up.
I wasn’t sure how the diagonal seams would work, but allowing for an offset at the beginning and the end worked like a charm. The instructions say to offset the two pieces, so the diagonal seam was almost better than a straight seam. I experimented on a scrap of fabric before I started on my projects. It’s never a good
idea to start something new without experimenting if you don’t know what you’re doing. We make enough mistakes as it is!
Press the seam allowance to one side so the narrower edge is under the wider piece (the dark green). I used the same color thread in the top and the bobbin. The stitching we see in this photo is the bobbin thread.
The wrong side looks like this.
The next step is to tuck about 1” of that wider seam allowance under so it wraps around the narrower seam allowance. Press it with the iron, or finger pressing works as well.
The Flat Felled Foot 9 mm
Choosing a thread color from Gütermann Nostalgia Box - 50wt Cotton Thread 100m - 48 Shades
The two pieces of fabric are ready for seam one of the flat felled seam
Lining up the fabric for the first seam
The offset on the diagonal seam
The first seam is sewn and pressed
The back side of the seam
Place the fabric under the flat felled presser foot with the previous stitching line lined up with the red line on the inside of the foot. Sew for about 1”.
Then, bring the seam allowance up so the raw edge sits in the curved guides at the front of the foot. Those two curved guides work like a charm to fold that raw edge under and keep it in place while you sew. And you’ll be sewing right along the folded edge.
It’s important to note that the fabric you want to have the flat felled seam appear on should start as the wider fabric for the first seam. It didn’t matter in my case, but if I were using two very different colored fabrics, it could affect my thread color. In the clothing world, knowing whether the seam falls on the front or back of your pant seam could be essential.
I mixed, matched, and sewed the next placemat with the more colorful fabric on the bottom.
And while it’s difficult to see because of the matching thread, the flat felled seam is on the colorful fabric. Using the needle down on the Opal 690Q is a MUST. I have to say that I was impressed at how easy it is to sew a flat, felled seam. I expected it to be a lot bulkier than it is. Hmm – this would work for quilt backings! There are no raw edges, so there is no fraying!
I’ve completed two seams, with the flat felled seam on both fabrics. They look impressive, and I’m impressed!
Here are some tips that I think make it easier.
Instead of letting that fabric fold over on itself, I held it in place as it curled through the guides at the front of the foot. I’m working with a looser weave polyester fabric cut on the bias. I felt it wanted to stretch out a bit. I found holding it helped to keep the seam tight. I probably wouldn’t need to do that with a straight-of-grain cut. More experimenting in that area would help me understand its physics.
I sewed SLOWLY, which is critical, and I watched what was happening as I sewed. I didn’t want to rip out because I’m dealing with biased edges, and the thread color matched so well.
Note which fabric must be on the bottom so all the seams are the same or different, depending on your preference.
Remember to start with the wrong sides together if you want that flat felled seam to appear on the right side!
Now that I’m comfortable with the flat felled seam, I can move forward and get the remaining seams done.
I want to finish the raw edges of those cushions, so I’ll use the Edging Foot J on the Opal 690Q. I don’t remember which stitch is the best, so I looked at the User’s Guide to see that I wanted to use Utility Stitch 1:11. The finger on J Foot works like a charm to keep the edge of the fabric and the stitch flat.
Pressing under the first 1” of the wider seam allowance
Starting the second line of stitching
The raw edge sits inside two curved guides
Sewing the second placemat with the colorful fabric on the bottom
The flat felled seam
The flat felled seams
The flat felled seams
Before I knew it, the edges were all finished. I won’t finish the edges of the placemats as they are inside and shouldn’t fray during washing, but I finished the edges of all the cushions.
When I reached the corner, I rotated the fabric square and continued. It’s so easy with the Needle Down and the Exclusive Sensor System. The presser foot pops up ever so slightly, making pivoting a breeze. I LOVE this feature!
And now for the outtakes! So that you know, what I make is not always perfect; here are a few things that happened and how I fixed them. Remember I said I was concerned about the angle and if that would affect the flat felled seam or, more importantly, the size of the square?
Well, if the two pieces were off, which they were in this case, I couldn’t trim the square to the size I needed.
I won’t confess to understanding the physics of this, but I ripped that seam out and moved the darker piece down a bit, and now I could easily cut the 16½” square. It’s all about the angles!
These two instances happen when you’re chatting away and not paying attention to what you’re doing.
When I trimmed the piece after I completed the seam, I trimmed it too short. I was running out of fabric, so I didn’t have the luxury of cutting two pieces to join. Instead, I cut a solid rectangle of one of the fabrics to replace this one.
And this is what happens to polyester fabric when you iron it on a cotton setting. It wasn’t so much the cotton setting as opposed to setting the iron on the fabric and then chatting!
Oops. Oh dear – it melted right onto the iron, but no worries, once it cooled, I peeled the melted piece off the sole plate, and all was good. Again, I didn’t have enough fabric to cut two squares and piece them, so I had to cut a solid piece of fabric. No one will ever know what happened!
And that’s a wrap for today. I was a little leery about using the Flat Felled Seam foot as I’d never used it, but it was a snap to use, and I wasn’t sure if it would work on those bias seams with that decorator fabric. However, I should know that when one has the proper tools and instructions, things will go well!!
It was a breeze to sew those seams on the Husqvarna VIKING Opal 690Q, next I’m adding piping to the placemats and the cushions, and I should be able to finish the placemats!
Overcast stitch on the cushion
The square is too small
Overcast stitch
The square is now large enough to trim
A miscut!
I was not paying attention!
Husqvarna VIKING Opal 690Q
Making piping is a breeze with the Welt Cord Foot
I’m making and adding piping to the placemats and finishing them. It’s patio season, and I want to use the placemats!
I cut the bias strips for my piping a couple of days ago. I opened the box of Gütermann thread to find a thread that matched the fabric. I love opening this box – looking at all those colors makes me happy. I’ve decided that as I use up a spool, I’ll replace it so the box is always intact. It was fabulous to open the box and have the right color handy.
I may switch up a color or two, especially in the neutrals, but it’s a fantastic thread collection and so easy to transport, and I get a good visual of all the threads simultaneously.
The first step was to join all the binding strips, and I used blue thread in the bobbin and the top. Join these strips as you would your quilt binding. Cutting the bias strips from a rectangle meant they already had an angle on one end. I used the Quilter’s ¼” piecing foot for this task.
Be sure to overlap the pointy ends a bit so the strip of fabric will be straight. Your seam should intersect the notches at the top and bottom of the seam.
Press the seam open to reduce the bulk. Notice how the edges are straight on either side of the join. I used a synthetic setting on the iron and paid attention when I pressed these, as I did not want a reoccurrence of previous meltdown. There are multiple temperature settings on the iron for a reason!
I snapped on the Single Welt Foot onto the Opal 690Q as I was ready to insert the piping cord inside the fabric strips. Remember, “welt” is used in the homedec world but is another form of piping.
It’s hard to see the piping cord in that previous photo, so here’s a better shot. The cord fits inside the fold of the fabric strip. The bulk of the cord fits into the groove on the underside of the Welt Cord Foot. I’m using a straight stitch with the needle in the center position.
Match the raw edges of the fabric strip as you sew.
Easy to choose a thread color
Join the strips for the piping.
Intersect the notches to get a straight strip
Straight edges on the join of the fabric strip
The Welt Cord Foot (single)
The piping cord inside the fabric strip
I started by making enough piping for one placemat to ensure everything was OK. I did not cut the piping, but I’ll continue adding blue fabric strips as needed.
Enough piping for one placemat
I’m using a ¼” seam allowance, and it’s a challenge to get that exact when making piping. I found a tool that allows me to trim the seam allowance to ¼” or ½.” What I trimmed off was minimal, so I could have used the existing raw edge if I didn’t have access to that tool.
The problem was that the ruler's edge was too thick for my 45 mm rotary cutter. I wasn’t home when I made that piping and couldn’t access my 60 mm rotary cutter. So creativity struck me the following day, and switching the screw on my 45 mm rotary cutter on the front with the one on the back, gave me enough room to trim along the thicker edge.
I don’t recommend this for regular use, but it worked like a charm in a pinch. Notice the minimal width of the trimmings.
Then, it was time to sew the piping to the placemat. I left a small tail of the piping for an overlap at the join.
I moved the needle to the left by one position, as I wanted the stitching closer to the piping. The needle positions to the left of the center are negative, while the positions on the right are positive.
It was so easy to go around the curved corners of the placemats–no worries about turning a square corner. The bias strips curved around the corners so easily! I might have pulled the corners a bit too tight, as there is some rippling in my final placemat. I’m making a note for future projects to give myself less tension (pulling the piping too tight) around the corners.
Within a very short time, I was back at the beginning. I carefully overlapped the two ends and sewed SLOWLY across the extra bulk.
I’m pretty impressed at how easy that join was, and it looks fantastic. The Opal 690Q sewed like a charm over that bulk. The trick is to sew slowly because the extra layers could cause a needle to break. I had also switched to a Size 12 Topstitch needle.
I tried to cut the excess away using the piping trimming ruler, but I found it easier and safer to cut freehand.
I took the second side of the placemat and carefully placed it over the side with the piping. It doesn’t matter which side you sew the piping on – the front or the back. The result will look the same.
A tool to trim the seam allowance
Trimming the seam allowance on the piping
Sewing the piping to the placemat
The needle is to the left of the center needle position
It’s easy to go around the curved corners
Sewing the final join
The overlap at the join
Using the ruler to trim the edge was unwieldy and unsafe
I moved the needle one more position to the left.
left
I also used the FIX function on the Opal 690Q at the seam's beginning and end. Be careful when you sew around the placemat, as I had to manipulate the fabric to keep it lined up with the edges, but I didn’t find it necessary to pin it. I have a lot more flexibility by NOT pinning, and it was just as accurate.
Leave an opening on the flat side (not a curve) to turn the placemat inside out. I used the FIX function at the beginning and end of this seam, which prevents the stitching from coming undone. Ensure the opening is wide enough so you don’t struggle or rip open the seam ends.
Because of the multiple thicknesses and the stiffer decorator fabric, it was a wee challenge to turn it inside out. But it didn’t take long, as I had left a nice-sized opening. The piping on the edges made it super easy to pull everything out, so the curves looked like curves, and the straight edges were straight.
I tried using a fusible to close the opening, but it didn't want to fuse well with the polyester fabric and the thickness. One side fused with no problem, but not the other. I handstitched the opening.
The last step is to use the 30-weight cotton thread in the contrasting blue to topstitch around the edges. I used the ¼” Edge Stitching Foot for that. It has a guide on the side, which I ran along the seam between the piping and the fabric.
And here’s one of the placemats. It looks amazing! I’m thrilled with the results.
The second side of the plaemat, and I’m impressed at how flat those flat felled seams were in the seam allowance. I was worried about the flat felled seam, the piping, and the thicker fabric, but it turned out amazing!
Then, I was off to make the piping and finish the three remaining placemats.
I love it when you have the right tools to do the job. In this case, it was all about having the right presser feet to make the job easy! It took no time to make the piping and then apply it to the edges of the placemats. And let’s not forget the fantastic functions on the Husqvarna VIKING Opal 690Q, which also sewed through those thicker seams without any issues.
Moving the needle one more position to the
Use the FIX function to secure the ends of the seam
Leave an opening to turn the placemat inside out
Turning the placemat inside out
Fusing did not work with all the thicknesses
Topstitching using the guide to get an accurate line of stitching
One side of the placemat
The second side of the placemat
The piping for the remaining three placemats
Adding piping AND an invisible zipper to cushions
Aren’t those placemats gorgeous? I can’t wait to finish the cushions and put everything around the table in the backyard!
It’s all about finishing the cushions with the Husqvarna VIKING Opal 690Q. I must add the piping to the edges and insert the invisible zippers. Let’s get started. The overlap method for joining the piping was quick, but I found the join a bit lumpy with the thicker piping cord. So, I decided to try a different joining method for the cushions, as I didn’t want the join to interfere with the invisible zipper.
The preparation method is the same as before, but I would use a basting stitch (3.5 mm) to enclose the cord into the fabric strip rather than a regular stitch length. You’ll see why in a minute.
To attach the piping to one side of the cushion, start along one side (never in a corner), and for this technique, I left a tail of about 4”.
The tapered corners on the cushions made it easier to turn the piping than if it had been a 90-degree corner. I still used the bias binding I had created for the rounded corners on the placemats, but it wasn’t necessary. As you approach the corner, snip a couple of times into the seam allowance to allow the piping to turn.
Use sharp scissors to snip the seam allowance, like these Husqvarna VIKING 8” Bent Trimmer.
I used the needle-down function while sewing, and when I reached the pivot point at the corner, I turned the cushion 90 degrees. I tugged the piping to the left (against the needle) to get it lined up with the next edge and provide a nice pivot in the piping.
Continue around the four corners until you return to the edge where you started. Leave a gap of about 6” to work. This next part is similar to making the final join for quilt binding.
Leave a gap of 6” – 8” to join the two ends.
I overlapped the end and the beginning and then cut the piping, using sharp scissors, so the tail was longer than the beginning by the width of the piping (binding). After trimming the seam allowance, it was about 13/8”.
Overlap the two ends of the piping.
CAREFULLY open the piping enough to join the two ends using a diagonal seam. A basting stitch would make this task much easier than the regular stitch length I used.
Leave a tail of four inches when starting to attach the piping to the cushion.
A couple of snips in the piping seam allowance to make it easier to pivot.
Sharp, strong scissors
Use the Needle Up/Down Function to pivot.
Join the two ends of the piping fabric on the diagonal as you would for binding. If this doesn’t make sense, check out the final join in my binding tutorial and ignore the piping cord.
Sew the diagonal seam. Again, ignore the piping cord.
Check to ensure that you haven’t twisted that piping (binding), and if everything is OK, trim the seam allowance down and finger-press the seam open. Then line up the two lengths of piping cord side by side and carefully cut one of them so they will butt to each other.
Then, sew along the edge of the piping to secure the piping to the cushion cover. You can remove the bits of thread from undoing the piping or leave them in. They won’t show once the cushion is together.
Press the piping firmly into the fold so it’s tight like the rest of the piping. Using my Saftey Stiletto worked like a charm to tame the cording.
I had guestimated how much fabric to cut for the piping I needed and how much cording to buy. I was a bit over on the cording, which is OK because having extra cording on hand is handy. I had about 8 inches left of the blue piping after I used it on the four placemats and the six cushions! I think my guesstimate was pretty much right on! I love it when that happens.
Now that the piping is on, it’s time to add the invisible zipper. I’ve covered inserting invisible zippers before, so I will only add the bit about sewing it to the edge with the piping.
I began by sewing one side of the invisible zipper to the cushion cover with the piping. Because of the combined bulk of the zipper and the piping, using either the invisible zipper foot or the welt cord foot is impossible. So, I’ll use the Mega Piping Foot.
The first step is to gently press the coil of one side of the invisible zipper open. I only pressed one side as I’ll use the invisible zipper foot on the opposite side. The zipper is facedown in this photo, with the zipper pull to the left. The bottom coil is pressed open. Be careful not to melt that coil.
I did a lot of experimenting before I was happy with the results. My seam ripper got a lot of use as I played with various feet and stitch positions. Eventually, I settled on the leftmost position of the needle.
Open the piping.
Join the two ends of the piping.
Sew the diagonal seam.
Cut the piping cord.
The join in the piping.
Use the Safety Stiletto to keep the cord firm against the fold.
Leftover piping
Press one side of the zipper coil open.
The needle in the leftmost position
In this photo, the needle is almost on the outside of the mega piping foot. With the right side of the zipper on the seam allowance of the piping, I jammed the zipper teeth as close to the piping as possible.
Here’s what that first seam looked like. Getting this exactly how I wanted it took some practice and patience. Don’t despair – be patient – it works!
Even when I roll the zipper teeth back, as on the right-hand side, the stitches holding the piping in place are not visible. I didn’t get quite the consistency I would have liked, but it’s pretty close, and I’m thrilled!
cannot beat that feature! I started sewing right at the end of the cushion cover.
I continued down the entire side of the cushion and stitched right off the end. You can use the FIX function or backstitch to secure the end of the seam.
Your seam to attach the zipper will be close, but not right on the seam that sewed the piping to the cushion. It’s tricky, but I was delighted with the results. I used three different zipper colors, and while all of them worked well with the colors of my cushions, next time, I’d match my zipper to the color of the piping.
Once one side of the zipper was attached to the cushion cover next to the piping, I used the invisible zipper foot to sew the second side. Per my previous instructions, I lined up the zipper to the second side of the cushion and sewed it in place. That seam was super easy!
Then, using the mega piping foot and holding the two cushion covers together, I stitched about 1” at both ends of the zipper to prevent the zipper from coming to the corner. I used a backstitch at the beginning and the end to secure it. Alternatively, you can use the FIX function.
I loved having the Exclusive Sensor System with the Needle Up/Down function. As I was holding the end of the zipper with my right hand at the start of the seam and holding the zipper to the piping with the other, I just tapped on the foot pedal to drop the presser foot. You
Test the zipper before you sew the other side to ensure it closes properly. I found a few stitches that caught the zipper, so I nipped them with a seam ripper and restitched that tiny section. I got much better at this as I sewed all six zippers in, so patience is required. But you want to get as close as possible, so it’s liable to happen.
Sewing one side of the invisible zipper to the piped edge.
The zipper is attached to the piped edge
The zipper is close to the piping, and no stitching shows.
Sewing the beginning of the seam.
Sew right to the end of the cushion.
The seams on the back of the cushion – one for the piping, one for the zipper
A stitch caught in the zipper
Sewing the second side of the zipper using the invisible zipper foot
Stitching a zipper stop at the end of the zipper
Here’s the short line of stitching that creates the zipper stop, which prevents the zipper from going all the way to the corners. Be sure the zipper pull is inside those stitching lines, or you won’t be able to move the zipper pull.
The last step is to sew the remaining three sides of the cushion together using the welt cord foot. I placed the cover with the piping on the top so it was easier to let the groove in the bottom of the welt cord foot ride on top of the piping. I matched the sides and the corners, and this was an amazingly simple seam to sew. You may want to use your FIX function or backstitch at the ends of that seam.
I turned the cushion cover inside out, grabbed a cushion form, and inserted it into the cushion cover. I had not opened those cushion forms before, but their quality is fantastic! I love the feel of the material, and you can feel the quality of the filling.
I grabbed one and put it on a chair, and the girls immediately came over to check it out. They approve. I’m THRILLED.
Here’s what the invisible zipper and the piping look like. For a first attempt, I am beyond words with excitement.
So I continued, and before I knew it, all six cushions were ready to be auditioned outside. I had to get the table set up. OH MY GOSH – that looks amazing. I have six cushions and four chairs, but there are no cushions in the chair in the gazebo, so two of them may just wander over there!
There’s nothing like plunging into the deep end to learn a new technique, like invisible zippers AND piping. But I have to say that the Husqvarna VIKING Opal 690Q performed like a true champ. It sewed through many thicknesses of that decorator fabric. It sewed yards of piping and the flat felled seams, and then it sewed in the invisible zippers and the piping. ANYTHING is possible when you have the right tools and a little skill.
Well, I’m out of here and off to enjoy my new cushions in the backyard. Thanks for following along and have a super day! Ciao!!
The zipper stop
Sewing the cushion cover together
The invisible zipper in the cushion
The cushions and the placemats
Husqvarna VIKING Opal 690Q
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