KNITmuch | Issue 12

KNITmuch

summer tops · cowls · shawls · hat · woven blankets · pullovers

...to K, is to

Issue 12

KNITTING with

Cotton Supreme Waves Donnina Merino Mist Whisper Lace Lina * Broken Ribs Pattern Stitches * Alternating Cable Cast-On * Simple Stretchy Bind-Off * Choosing your knitting needles wisely * Block your knitting to perfection!

WEAVING A COLOR BLOCK BABY BLANKET WITH COTTON SUPREME WAVES

KNITmuch ...to K, is to

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ART DIRECTOR Carla A. Canonico Carla@KNITmuch.com ADVERTISING SALES John De Fusco John@KNITmuch.com PUBLISHER A Needle Pulling Thread PHOTOGRAPHERS John De Fusco, Carla A. Canonico, Contributors BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS Fiona Stevenson fionastevensondesigns Cindy O'Malley cindooknits.blogspot.com Charles Voth charlesvothdesigns.ca Cynthia MacDougall cgknitters.blogspot.com GRAPHIC DESIGN Carla A. Canonico Carla@KNITmuch.com Sondra Armas Sondra@KNITmuch.com SOCIAL MEDIA and WEB Sondra Armas Alejandro Araujo WEBSITE / BLOG : KNITmuch.com Like us on Facebook : KNITmuch Follow us on Twitter : @KNITmuchmag WHERE TO GET YOUR COPY KNITmuch is a quarterly eMagazine published by A Needle Pulling Thread. It is available free for personal use online at KNITmuch.com.

A limited number of printed copies of KNITmuch are available for purchase at select yarn shops and specialty stores. Ask for it at your local shop. KNITmuch is not available by subscription.

YARN SHOPS If you are interested in carrying KNITmuch in your store, please email John@KNITmuch.com.

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EDITORIAL Bloggers, designers and other contributors who would like to be considered for future issues please email Carla@KNITmuch.com with a brief description of your work and your proposed project. ©2021 KNITmuch. All rights reserved. Issue 12.

ISSN 2368-5913.

No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are for private, non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted material owned by their respective creators or owners.

ERRATA KNITmuch Issue 11 We apologize for omitting Fiona Stevenson's name and Ravelry in the list of contributors and at the end of her feature on page 13. Fiona Stevenson Designs

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Knit Together - Broken Ribs - Pattern Stitches to Try Doubling up Lina and Whisper Lace yarns for 2X the beauty and function Giving a shout-out to Whisper Lace yarn What gives Fibra Natura Lina yarn its beautiful drape?

Making tidy increases/decreases when working with linen yarn, Lina Try a parallelogram lace panel in your next top-down knit tee Knitting the perfect spring cowl with Fibra Natura Donnina yarn Masters in knitting choose their knitting needles wisely!

How to knit super stretchy edges for the Contours Cowl How to block your knitting to perfection!

Online knitting groups – a knitter is never truly alone Knitting with Cotton Supreme Waves Swatches...what does Cotton Supreme Waves look like in 3 needle sizes?

Knitting a summertime tee with waves of color What to know about knitting an oversized wrap with Cotton Supreme Waves Weaving a color block baby blanket with Cotton Supreme Waves Knitting with Merino Mist yarn 3 swatches determine the best knit fabric Knitting the Jay Sweater in Merino Mist for a perfect fit Making a simple cowl glamorous using Merino Mist yarn Soft and cozy arm warmers complete the Merino Mist trio Standard yarn weights, abbreviations & terms

c o n t e n t s KNITmuch | issue 12

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editor's

letter In my knitting adventures I've often changed up the yarn recommended in the knitting pattern. It will be about the color or feel of the yarn that prompts me to change it. Often the knitted piece will look entirely different than that in the original pattern. In this issue, we do just that with the Jay Sweater, originally knit up in Fibra Natura Kingston Tweed, Cindy O'Malley has knit this colorwork sweater using Universal Yarn Merino Mist - soft and airy. See how her thoughts on the changes. Using black, gray, and white, the Jay Sweater looks so very different.

Cindy has taken her leftover Cotton Supreme Waves yarn to her loom to see what the 'waves' in the color would look like in a baby blanket.

The result is beautiful! The yarn makes the 'waves' do all the color changes, it's so nice when projects are simplified while keeping the wow factor!

Cindy also changed the color of the Fresh Berry Tee to a stronger shade of pink and purple colorway using Cotton Supreme yarn, giving it a bolder look. Knitting is about the joy in experimenting with yarn and color!

I hope this letter

finds you in good health.

Another exciting feature here is how Charles Voth plays with Lina yarn, a linen-cotton blend, and Whisper Lace, a wool-silk blend, both by Fibra Natura to knit up a fresh summer top. This top also includes an interesting parallelogram patterned stitch as an embellishment. Just making things sweeter here!

I hope you have fun reading this issue and trying out most if not all of the wonderful suggestions within it.

Wish you happy knitting adventures!

Cheerfully,

follow me KNITmuch | issue 12

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Knit Together

with Cynthia MacDougall

Broken Ribs

Photo by Mike Guilbault.

Anyone who has had one knows that a broken rib is no fun at all, but breaking ribs deliberately in knitting can be fun.

Ribbed stitch patterns, the cause of boredom in many a knitter, can be made more interesting by breaking them up.

Cynthia MacDougall Canadian Guild of Knitters PO Box 562 Stn Main Orillia, ON L3V 6K2 705.722.6495 1.866.245.5648 (CGK-KNIT) www.CGKnitters.ca blog: cgknitters.blogspot.com ravelry name: theloveofknit

Knit and purl stitches are the foundation for all knitting. They are simple stitches, yet there are literally hundreds of ways to combine them to create texture and design. Any stitch treasury has at least a chapter, if not an entire volume, dedicated to knit/purl combination stitches. Ribbing often features prominently in these chapters or volumes.

Many knitters think of ribbing in a traditional fashion; even columns of knit stitches and purl stitches to make tidy edges on hems, neckbands, and cuffs of sweaters. Ribbing's potential goes far beyond this.

What happens when you 'break up' a ribbed panel? Design options! Seed stitch (also known as moss stitch in some areas) is actually a 1x1 rib that is 'broken' every row. Moss stitch (sometimes referred to as double moss stitch), is a 1x1 rib that is 'broken' on every second row. Double seed stitch (sometimes described as box or dice stitch) is a 2x2 rib that is broken every two rows.

Beyond these examples, numerous other options can be explored: a 3x3 rib that is broken on every third row, or a 4x4 rib broken on every fourth row. It soon becomes apparent that ribbing alone has hundreds of possibilities.

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What happens when you break a 3x3 rib by moving the knit and purl stitches one stitch to the right or left on every fourth row? The River Rib toque is one answer.

What would happen if the knit and purl stitches were moved two stitches to the right or left? What would happen if the stitches were moved every third, or every fifth, row?

Another way to break ribs is to use an 'uneven rib' [even ribs have the same number of knit and purl stitches.

Uneven ribs have more knit stitches than purl stitches or more purl stitches than knit stitches]. Try breaking a 1x3 rib every fourth row, or breaking a 3x5 rib every third row. Break it by 2 stitches, then try breaking it by 4 stitches.

The possibilities for broken ribs can be expanded further by working a row or two of plain knit or purl across the ground of traditional ribbed columns. Incorporating twisted stitches is another way of breaking up the appearance of ribbing.

I like to 'doodle' with yarn. Every so often, I choose a smooth yarn, appropriate sized needles, and start to experiment with stitch patterns. I may start out with a motif or stitch pattern by another author, and try branching out from it, or I may just begin with a variety of knit and purl stitches and branch out from there. Take some time this winter to 'doodle' with broken ribs.

Make note of what transpires on your needles, and think of ways your doodles can become your own designs. z

Photos courtesy of Cynthia MacDougall.

Pattern Stitches to Try Seed Stitch: ‘Breaking’ or offsetting a 1 x 1 rib every row creates the Seed Stitch pattern.

Cast on an even number of stitches.

Row 1: *K1, p1; repeat from * across.

Row 2: *P1, k1; rep from * across.

To centre Seed Stitch work it over an odd number of stitches and follow Row 1 for every row.

Moss Stitch: Moss stitch is a 1 x 1 rib ‘broken’ every two rows.

Cast on an even number of stitches.

Rows 1 and 2: *K1, p1; rep from * across.

Rows 3 and 4: *P1, k1; rep from * across.

Double Seed Stitch/ Box Stitch: Although it is often referred to as double seed stitch, Barbara G. Walker notes in her Treasury of Knitting Patterns that it more closely resembles the structure of Moss Stitch, because Double Seed Stitch pattern has four rows. Double Seed Stitch is actually a 2 x 2 rib that is broken, or offset, every two rows.

Cast on a multiple of 4 plus 2 stitches (e.g., 22) Rows 1 and 3: *K2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Rows 2 and 4: *P2, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k4

2 Stitch Rib: When only row 1 of the Double Seed Stitch pattern is worked on every row, it results in the 2 Stitch Rib. Because this rib is broken every row, it is, in effect, a true double seed stitch, because the ‘seeds’ always appear in pairs.

Twisted 1 x 1 Rib, Broken Every 4 Rows: The instructions below are for back-and-forth knitting, and make a reversible fabric which is sturdy, but not as elastic as 1 x 1 ribbing.

Cast on an odd number of stitches.

Rows 1 and 3: *K1 tbl, p1 tbl; rep from * to last st, k1tbl.

Rows 2 and 4: *P1 tbl, k1 tbl; rep from * to last st, p1tbl.

Rows 5 and 7: Work as given for rows 2 and 4.

Rows 6 and 8: Work as given for rows 1 and 3 KNITmuch | issue 12

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KNITmuch | issue 12

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KNITmuch | issue 12

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Doubling up Lina and Whisper Lace yarns for 2X the beauty and function

Swatch of two yarns held together, Lina and Whisper Lace, both by Fibra Natura.

Lina comes in hanks that need to be wound up, but Whisper Lace is neatly wound into soft balls that are ready to be knit from.

I swatched with different stitch patterns to see what I liked.

The last time I held yarn double to knit something was years ago, when I had some scrap worsted weight yarns that I wanted to use up by making a pet blanket.

I really tried to make the colors match, but that was trickier than I thought. I didn’t like how the colors marled either. I tried to fight the twisting of the two yarns first and gave up. Then I tried to deliberately twist the yarns evenly, to no avail. I just didn’t like the look. So what led me to consider doing this again? Well, it was mainly being in love with qualities of certain yarns, but not finding a yarn that had all the qualities in one. I chose Lina and Whisper Lace by Fibra Natura.

What are the qualities I was looking for?

First, I wanted to have a worsted weight yarn instead of a DK or sport yarn because I wanted to knit a garment more quickly at a gauge of 18 to 20 sts per 4". I wanted to use fibers that have a decent amount of drape, like linen and silk, but I also wanted the fiber to have a little bounce to it, so a little elasticity and memory, like that in wool. I wanted the garment to be great for the in-between seasons…

Charles Voth

when many days are cool, but you don’t want to feel bulky like a marshmallow and jumping from pulling layers on or off.

Worsted weight linen is very heavy and because it has no elasticity, it really grows with gravity, so I wanted to blend a lighter linen or linen blend yarn with something else. I found out about Fibra Natura Lina which is listed as a light-weight yarn, and it behaves somewhere between a Sport (2) and DK-weight (3) yarn.

Then I wanted a really fine yarn that was wool or mohair-based for the elasticity and looking through other Fibra Natura yarns I found Whisper Lace.

Having the really fine lace weight that is multicolored mixed with the solid DK-weight is also a whole different experience than when I held two strands of worsted weight together. The marled or tweedy look from the mix of Whisper Lace and Lina really makes a difference. The main color of the Lina truly shines through, but the variations in the Whisper Lace make the fabric have more depth.

Photos by Charles Voth

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Giving a shout-out to Whisper Lace yarn I want to take a step back and highlight the strengths of Whisper Lace yarn.

Whisper Lace comes in 14 luxurious solids and 14 wellcoordinating multi-colored dye patterns. Because I was using a solid of the linen yarn, Lina, I decided to go with the Fern multi, which has cream, yellow, greens and a pale turquoise in the mix.

This 2-ply S-twist yarn has a nice crimp and a nice sheen in each strand.

Free PDF of Rime Shawl Pattern In Whisper Lace.

Free PDF of pattern for Augustine Scarf in the Stonework colorway of Whisper Lace.

I like Whisper Lace so much, that when I'm finished with the original design, the one where I blend the two yarns together, I'll knit something out of this yarn on its own. It's one of my favorite lace-weight yarns ever!

The lace work and cables on the edge raise this Rime shawl to a new level of elegance. It only takes 3 balls at 440 yards each.

Solids and Multis coordinate well, and there is at least one match for each one.

I was looking for a lace-weight yarn that contained at least 50% wool. It didn't have to be superwash, but I did want a soft sheep's wool for the elasticity and 'blockability'. Whisper Lace is 70% superwash wool and 30% silk. I love this blend because the silk adds sheen and strength to the yarn.

Check out several projects that were designed for Fibra Natura to feature Whisper Lace yarn.

This soft wool-silk blend in this pastel colorway is the perfect blending yarn for my garment project.

One of the design elements I decided to include in this garment are lace panels. I needed to swatch with Whisper Lace to see how it behaved, so I chose to work some stockinette stitch and a small lace panel just to see how it looked. I decided to incorporate a lace parallelogram into the design. Here's what it looks like close up.

This close up of Whisper Lace in mostly stockinette stitch is 1½" wide x ¾" tall.

This long, wide, lacy scarf shown in the Stonework colorway of Whisper Lace is called Augustine and used 2 balls of this yarn.

This parallelogram lace motif will make a classic spring sweater classy.

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What gives Fibra Natura Lina yarn its beautiful drape?

9 of the 12 colors of Lina available shown together highlight how well-chosen the color-range actually is.

Any color in the collection goes well with the others.

It is characteristic of plant-based fiber yarns to be comprised of many individual plies.

This yarn is listed as sport weight, but when I knit with it on size 5US [3.75mm] needles, I got more of a DK weight stitch count of 22 or 21 stitches per 4". Each hank is 100g and has a generous 252yds. I chose the Fern green color because it was a close match to the Reeds colorway I chose in Whisper Lace.

I like to really get to know the yarns I knit with. At first glance, Fibra Natura Lina looks a bit loosely spun. There's a lot of separation between the larger plies and this gives the yarn its lightness of being and helps a lot with its drape. However, upon untwisting the plies, I discovered that there are 3 main plies that

Lina is a versatile yarn. Change the needles size and you can get a range of gauges between 24 sts per inch to 20. The fabric has drape in every case.

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are spun loosely around each other, but each one of those strands is comprised of 3 even more tightly spun plies. The middle strand in the photo shows that one of the plies is loosely spun and has 2 binding plies that keep the looser fibers contained, but still relaxed.

The architecture of this yarn is definitely responsible for its strength, drape, and depth of color.

I swatched with Lina on its own first to see what it behaved like at a tighter gauge. I really found that the swatch had a lot of drape and even some elasticity, which is unusual for a plant-fiber based yarn.

Row gauge is more accurate after wet-blocking. Read why above

All the swatches done, I'm ready to design the sweater I'll share with you in the next couple of articles.

Fern and Amaranth, these two rich colors of Lina by Fibra Natura are used together in a lacy long scarfarita called Strawberry & Kiwi.

Row gauge is a little tricky to measure prior to blocking because the stitches like to separate from each other where they were sitting on the needles. But once wet blocked and pulled vertically and allowed to spring back, the stockinette fabric was more balanced and the gauge more accurate. I do this when I knit with linen or cotton because I want to imitate the effect gravity seems to have on plant-based yarn.

The other stitch patterns at the bottom and top of the swatch were an attempt at killing two birds with one stone. I wanted to see if these textured stitches suited my design idea. But they didn't. So they just serve as lovely frames for my stockinette rows.

Here are some free designs that accompany Fibra Natura Lina and I'd like to introduce them to you now so that you have more than one project you can line up in your queue.

PDF of the free pattern for Strawberry & Kiwi Scarfarita PDF of the free pattern for Ravine Tee-shirt

PDF of free shawlette pattern using Lavendula, Potting Soil for the body and Crocus for the edging.

This scarf is knit with an all-over lace pattern that works up on the bias. It's a quick, fun knit for a classy accessory

You can just see the drape in the photo of this tee-shirt knit with the Citrus and Mineral colors of Lina by Fibra Natura.

Using an easy-to-execute Dip Stitch, you can knit this lovely shawlette that will drape over your shoulders on a fall evening.

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Making tidy increases/decreases when working with linen yarn, Lina I'm so excited to share my sweater design where I held together Lina, a linen-cotton blend, and Whisper Lace, a wool-silk blend, both by Fibra Natura.

I want to show you how the two yarns look together. I'll also demonstrate how to keep this not-so-elastic linen yarn behaving discreetly when you increase and decrease to shape the sweater I'm sharing with you. Let's get to it!

Stockinette stitch with Lina and Whisper Lace by Fibra Natura.

Zing interchangeable needles come in a variety of colors, and make a nice contrast to the yarn.

The stockinette is knit in the round and the gauge on a US8 [5mm] circular needle is 18 sts and 25 rows across 4".

I'm thrilled with the drape of this fabric, and it's very light as well, so I achieved my goal of knitting at a worsted weight gauge by blending two lighter weight yarns, which by their own merit give a lot of drape to knit fabric. I really like the peek-a-boo bits of tweed-like flecks of color from the Reeds colorway of Whisper Lace.

This sweater design was done "on the mannequin" instead of all on paper first, so there was the need to remove the stitches from the circular needle to try it on the model every once in a while.

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This sweater starts with a simple crew neck and is knit top down, making increases a necessary stitch for shaping.

This could have been a big hassle, but instead, I used the cool feature of my Zing interchangeable circular needle by Knitter's Pride. See that little hole about an inch from my fingers? That's where I threaded through dental floss as a life-line and knit one more round. Then I could unscrew the tips off the cable, slide the cable off the stitches, and voilà!

I'm sure you've heard it before, but when you swatch for an in-the-round sweater, be sure to swatch in the round, too! The tension of not having purl rows can be different for some knitters.

As I said earlier, this sweater is top-down, and it begins with a yoke construction.There's one difference to this particular yoke. You start by knitting in rows and working a gap opening at the center back, later to be closed with a button, and you'll be working short-rows to ensure the back of the sweater sits higher on the back neck, so that the front crew is comfortable.

I used German short rows, which I went on and on about a while ago, and demonstrated in a video, too, because they're invisible with the linen yarn...and it's all about invisibility with plant fiber yarns that don't have elasticity, because any slight shift in tension is readily visible, like right there!

Pam is modelling the Parallelogram Tee, knit out of Lina and Whisper Lace by Fibra Natura.

This also means that increases will show, too. There's no way to make them totally invisible, but I worked and worked at making them discreet and figured out a really useful strategy.

TIP You use the tips of the needles, not their full circumference to knit the increases, and also the decreases. Using Knitter's Pride Zing needles makes this technique really easy because you just have to keep your loops and yarn-overs on the shiny nickelplated tips, which are narrower than the colored body of the needles. Awesome!

I know that you probably have your favorite kind of increase, and M1 (make 1) may not be it. I tried lifted increases, knit front-back increases, and yo and knit into the back loop of the yo on the next round. None of them were subtle enough for my taste. So I'm sticking with the M1, and technically it's a left-twist Make 1. I didn't bother to try a righttwist M1 because I figured it would stretch the linen stitches even more and that would make them less than invisible.

To knit a large version of this sweater (44" bust and meant to be worn with no positive ease), you'll need 6 hanks of Lina and 3 balls of Whisper Lace.

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Try a parallelogram lace panel in your next top-down knit tee It's time to share this top-down knit tee pattern with you so you can try knitting it with Lina and Whisper Lace held together. The drape of the resulting fabric is fabulous. I wanted to hold these two yarns together because I felt that I could finish a full sweater in 5 weeks if it were knit at a worsted weight gauge. Alas..I still have 7" to go on the bottom of the body and both ¾-length sleeves to add on.

Pattern Information

bust 44" (meant to be worn with zero positive/ negative ease) length 25"

The parallelogram lace panel travels down only one side of the yoke. It also appears on one side of the back of this tee.

sleeves 3/4-length materials

• 6 hanks Lina by Fibra Natura (pictured in Fern): 3.5oz [100g] / 252 yds [230m]; 68% linen, 32% cotton.

• 4 balls Whisper Lace by Fibra Natura (pictured in Reeds): 1.75oz [50g] / 440 yds [400m]; 70% superwash wool, 30% silk • 8US [5mm] Zing circular needle; various cable lengths to accommodate different amounts of stitches at neck opening, full yoke, body, and sleeves.

• 8 stitch markers, 2 additional unique-looking stitch markers

These two yarns held together knit to a worsted weight gauge of 18 sts and 25 rows to 4" [10cm] in the round.

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The diagram for the Lace Panel is below. It's called CHART A in the pattern. Here are the text instructions for those who prefer them. Row numbers for the sweater instructions will not consistently coincide with the row numbers for the chart as you need to repeat the 36 rounds over and over again. Read the chart from right to left each round.

Chart A Stitch Diagram and Symbol Legend for Parallelogram Lace Panel

Rnd 1: Ssk, yo, k9.

Rnd 2: K1, p1, k9.

Rnd 3: K1, ssk, yo, k8.

Rnd 4: K2, p1, k8.

Rnd 5: [Ssk, yo] twice, k7.

Rnd 6: [K1, p1] twice, k7.

Rnd 7: K1, [ssk, yo] twice, k6.

Rnd 8: K1, [k1, p1] twice, k6.

Rnd 9: [Ssk, yo] 3 times, k5.

Rnd 10: [K1, p1] 3 times, k5.

Rnd 11: K1, [ssk, yo] 3 times, k4.

Rnd 12: K1, [k1, p1] 3 times, k4.

Rnd 13: [Ssk, yo] 4 times, k3.

Rnd 14: [K1, p1] 4 times, k3.

Rnd 15: K1, [ssk, yo] 4 times, k2.

Rnd 16: K2, [p1, k1] 4 times, k1.

Rnd 17: [Ssk, yo] 5 times, k1.

Rnd 18: K1, [p1, k1] 5 times.

Rnd 19: K1, [ssk, yo] 5 times.

Rnd 20: K1, [k1, p1] 5 times.

Rnd 21: K2, [ssk, yo] 4 times, k1.

Rnd 22: K3, [p1, k1] 4 times.

Rnd 23: K3, [ssk, yo] 4 times.

Rnd 24: K3, [k1, p1] 4 times.

Rnd 25: K4, [ssk, yo] 3 times, k1.

Rnd 26: K5, [p1, k1] 3 times.

Rnd 27: K5, [ssk, yo] 3 times.

Rnd 28: K6, p1, [k1, p1] twice.

Rnd 29: K6, [ssk, yo] twice, k1.

Rnd 30: K7, [p1, k1] twice.

Rnd 31: K7, [ssk, yo] twice.

Rnd 32: K7, [k1, p1] twice.

Rnd 33: K8, ssk, yo, k1.

Rnd 34: K9, p1, k1.

Rnd 35: K9, ssk, yo.

Rnd 36: K10, p1.

Special Stitches

Hitch-st on purl side: Yarn should already be at front of work as this is purl side, slip first st purlwise [as if to purl], tug on yarn to the right and take over right-hand needle to the back, bring yarn up through both needle tips, give it one more tug, [this is known as the purl hitch-stitch-abbrev: ph-st], Hitch-st on knit side: Yarn will be at back of work as this is knit side, bring yarn forward, slip first st purlwise [as if to purl], tug on yarn to the right and take over right-hand needle to the back, give it one more tug, [this is known as the knit hitch-stitchabbrev: kh-st],

Working hitch-sts off needles: purl or knit into both strands of next hitch stitch [check the German Short Rows video below] to maintain pattern of Seed Stitch.

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Abbreviations

K = knit; P = purl; SSK = slip next st purlwise, return to LH needle through front strand, knit 2 sts tog through back loops; pm = place marker, sm = slip marker or stitch marker, rm = remove marker, rem = remaining, st(s) = stitch(es), sl = slip, btwn = between, LH = left hand, RH = right hand, k2tog = knit 2 together, tog = together

Bring other end of circular needle around to join in the round, being careful not to twist, sl last st to LH needle, k2tog-90 sts.

Now working in Rounds

Set-up Rnd 1: K5, pm, [k11, pm] 3 times, k12, [pm, k11] 3 times, pm, k6.

Slip all markers as you come to them.

Rnd 1: K2, M1, k15, [k4, M1, k3, M1, k4], k14, **M1, k3**, rep btwn ** twice more, k11, rep btwn [ ], k3, M1, k3–99.

Rnd 2: Knit.

Hold these two yarns together throughout the pattern.

Using the Old Norwegian Cast-on and size 8US [5mm] needles, cast on 91 sts.

Set-up Row: Knit.

Row 1: K17, turn, leaving rem sts unworked.

Row 2: Kh-st, k across.

Row 3: K16, work off hitch st by kh-2tog, k10, turn.

Row 4: Ph-st, p across.

Row 5: Knit to hitch st, work off hitch st by kh-2tog, k10, turn.

Row 6: Ph-st, p across.

Row 7: Knit to hitch st, work off hitch st by kh-2tog, knit across.

Row 8: K18, turn, leaving rem sts unworked.

Row 9: Kh-st, k across.

Row 10: Purl to hitch st, work off hitch st by ph2tog, p10, turn.

Row 11: Kh-st, knit across.

Row 12: Purl to hitch st, work off hitch st by ph2tog, p10, turn.

Row 13: Kh-st, knit across to last st, place unique sm to indicate beginning of round.

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Rnd 3: K18, *k1, [M1, k3] 4 times, work row 1 of Chart A, k7*, m1, k19, rep btwn * once–108 sts.

Rnd 4: Knit to 3rd marker, sm, work row 2 of Chart A, [knit to next marker, sm] 3 times, work row 2 of Chart A, knit rem sts.

Rnd 5: K18, *[k3, M1] 4 times, k4, work row 3 of Chart A*, k8, m1, k19, rep btwn * once, k7–117 sts.

Rnd 6: Knit to 3rd marker, sm, work row 4 of Chart A, [knit to next marker, sm] 3 times, work row 4 of Chart A, knit rm sts.

Rnd 7: K18, *k1, [M1, k5] 4 times, work next row of Chart A*, k9, M1, k19, rep btwn * once, k7–126 sts.

Rnd 8: Knit to 3rd marker, sm, work next row of Chart A, [knit to next marker, sm] 3 times, work corresponding row of Chart A, knit rem sts.

Rnd 9: K1, M1, k5, M1, k12, *k8, M1, k9, M1, k8, work next row of Chart A*, k29, rep btwn * once, k1, M1, k5, M1, k1–134 sts.

Rnd 10: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 11: K3, M1, k17, *k9, M1, k9, M1, k9, work next row of Chart A*, [k4, M1]x3, k13, rep btwn * once, k6, M1, k3–143 sts.

Rnd 12: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 13: K5, M1, k16, *k5, M1, k19, M1, K5, work next row of Chart A*, k1, [M1, k5]x3, k17, rep btwn * once, k5, M1, k5–152 sts.

The back of the sweater is split at the beginning and short-rows are worked to help the neck opening sit correctly on the shoulders.

Rnd 14: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 15: K22, *k3, [M1, k7]x4, work next row of Chart A*, k12, M1, k23, rep btwn * once, knit rem sts–161 sts.

Rnd 16: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 17: K2, M1, k2, M1, k18, *k12, M1, k11, M1, K12, work next row of Chart A*, k2, M1, k34, rep btwn * once, k7, M1, k2, M1, k2–170 sts.

Rnd 18: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 19: K12, M1, k12, *k1, M1, k35, M1, k1, work next row of Chart A*, k11, M1, k4, M1, k22, rep btwn * once, k1, M1, k12–178 sts.

Rnd 20: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 21: K2, M1, k62, work next row of Chart A, k2, M1, k24, M1, k52, work corresponding row of Chart A, k12, M1, k2–182 sts.

Rnd 22: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 23: K4, M1, k41, M1, k20, work next row of Chart A, k2, M1, k26, M1, k32, M1, k20, work corresponding row of Chart A, k11, M1, k4– 188 sts.

Rnd 24: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 25: K6, M1, k62, work next row of Chart A, k4, M1, k24, M1, k55, work corresponding row of Chart A, k10, M1, k6–192 sts.

Rnd 26: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 27: K8, M1, k60, work next row of Chart A, k6, M1, 22, M1, k57, work corresponding row of Chart A, k9, M1, k8–196 sts.

Rnd 28: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 29: K10, M1, k59, work next row of Chart A, k8, M1, 20, M1, k59, work corresponding row of Chart A, k8, M1, k10–200 sts.

Rnd 30: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 31: K12, M1, k58, work next row of Chart A, k10, M1, k18, M1, k61, work corresponding row of Chart A, k7, M1, k12–204 sts.

Rnd 33: K14, M1, k6, k11, k40, work next row of Chart A, k12, M1, k16, M1, k12, k11, k40, work corresponding row of Chart A, k6, M1, k14– 208 sts.

Rnd 34: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 35: K16, M1, k5, k11, k40, work next row of Chart A, k14, M1, k14, M1, k14, k11, k40, work corresponding row of Chart A, k5, M1, k16– 212 sts.

Rnd 36: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 37: K2, M1, k20, k11, k40, work next row of Chart A, k2, M1, k40, M1, k2, k11, k40, work corresponding row of Chart A, k20, M1, k2–216 sts.

Rnd 38: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 39: K5, M1, k18, k11, k20, M1, k20, work next row of Chart A, k4, M1, k38, M1, k4, k11, k20, M1, k20, work corresponding row of Chart A, k18, M1, k5–222 sts.

Rnd 40: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 41: K24, k11, [k10, M1]x3, k11, work next row of Chart A, k48, k11, [k10, M1]x3, work corresponding row of Chart A, k24–228 sts.

Rnd 42: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 43: K2, M1, k22, k11, k44, work next row of Chart A, k2, M1, k44, M1, k2, k11, k44, work corresponding row of Chart A, k22, M1, k2–232 sts.

Rnd 44: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 45: K25, k11, [k11, M1]x3, k11, work next row of Chart A, k50, k11, [k11, M1]x3, k11, work corresponding row of Chart A, k25–238 sts.

Rnd 46: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 32: Rep Rnd 8.

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Rnd 47: K2, M1, k23, k11, k47, work next row of Chart A, k2, M1, k46, M1, k2, k11, k47, work corresponding row of Chart A, k23, M1, k2–242 sts.

Rnd 48: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 49: K26, k11, k11, [k12, M1]x3, k11, work next row of Chart A, k52, k11, [k12, M1]x3, k11, work corresponding row of Chart A, k26–248 sts.

Rnd 50: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 51: K2, M1, k24, k11, k50, work next row of Chart A, k2, M1, k48, M1, k2, k11, k50, work corresponding row of Chart A, k24, M1, k2–252 sts.

Rnd 52: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 53: K27, k11, [k12, M1]x3, k14, work next row of Chart A, k54, k11, [k12, M1]x3, k14, work corresponding row of Chart A, k27–258 sts.

Rnd 54: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnd 55: K2, M1, k62, M1, k27, work next row of Chart A, k2, M1, k50, M1, k40, M1, k26, work corresponding row of Chart A, k25, M1, k2–264 sts.

cast-on 16 sts, turn work, place next 50 sts on a stitch holder, knit 83 sts, working the corresponding row of Chart A across the 11 sts between sm–198 sts.

Rnds 1-21: Knit around, working next row of Chart A across both sets of 11 sts between sm.

Rnd 21: Remove unique beginning-of-round marker, k8, place unique marker to indicate new beginning of round, knit in established pattern (continuing lace panel between both sets of markers) across 99 sts, place another marker to indicate center below armhole, knit in established pattern across.

Rnd 23: *Knit in established pattern across next 23 sts, [ssk, k13]x5, k1*, pm, rep btwn *–188 sts.

Rnds 24-30: Knit in established pattern

Rnd 31: *K2, M1, knit in established pattern to 2 sts before marker, M1, k2*; rep btwn *–192 sts.

Rnds 32-34: Knit.

Rnd 35: *K1, M1, k2, M1, knit in established pattern to 1 st before marker, M1, k1*; rep btwn *–198 sts.

Rnd 56: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnds 36-38: Knit in established pattern.

Rnd 58: Rep Rnd 8, removing the unique marker at the beginning of the round and removing the 4 markers that flank 11-st panels that do NOT have the lace motif worked across them.

Leave the other 4 markers in place.

Repeat Rnds 36-39 eight times more–234 sts.

Rnd 57: K14, M1, k79, work next row of Chart A, k28, M1, k93, work next row of Chart A, k14, M1, k14–266 sts.

Rnd 39: *K1, M1, k5, M1, knit in establishd pattern to 6 sts before marker, M1, k5, M1, k1*; rep btwn *–202 sts.

Split for body.

Continue knitting in established pattern until garment from top of back neck measures approx.

23.5 inches, removing both sets of markers that flank the 11-st lace panels, but not the other two markers.

Set-up Rnd: Knit 41, place new unique marker to indicate beginning of round, turn work, cable cast-on 16 sts, turn work, place next 50 sts on a stitch holder, knit next 83 sts, at the same time working the next row of Chart A across the 11 sts between sm, turn work, cable

Divide for side splits

Row 1: Knit 117 sts across to next marker, rm, turn.

Row 2: Purl.

Row 3: Knit.

Row 4: Purl.

Knit all rows until length of side split is 1½". Bind off.

Repeat these rows on Back sts.

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Can't wait to get the sleeves done!

Sleeves

Set-up Rnd: With RS facing, starting halfway across 16 stitches cast-on for armhole, pick up and knit 8 sts, return 50 sts resting on st holder to needle and knit around, pick up and knit 8 sts across rem armhole sts, pm for beginning of round–66 stitches Knit around until sleeve from armhole measures 3 inches.

Dec Rnd: K2, ssk, knit to 4 sts before marker, k2tog, k2.

Continue knitting around, repeating dec rnd every 6th round until sleeve measures 7 inches.

Knit straight for 2 more inches.

The yoke shaping is done in such a way to keep the parallelogram lace panel on one side, and should slope gently and contoured.

Next Rnd: Purl.

Next Rnd: Knit.

Rep last 2 rnds once. Bind off.

Lina and Whisper Lace held together, what a refreshing knitting team!

I hope you really like this sweater and that the parallelogram lace appeals to you. Instead of miles and miles of stockinette stitch, which can get rather boring, you'll have the fun of working two panels of lace every so often...it's like eating a bag of potato chips, you can't stop! Please let us know if you're knitting this or which tutorials have been helpful tips for your knitting skills inventory.

Charles Voth

charlesvothdesigns.ca

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Knitting the perfect spring cowl with Fibra Natura Donnina yarn Fiona Stevenson

Fibra Natura Donnina Fine Italian-Style Merino is the perfect soft and light yarn to make a spring cowl.

Photo courtesy of Universal Yarn

I’m sharing with you the plans for my Contours Cowl, and how I’ve adjusted to make it right for my spring wardrobe.

Anyone who has been following me on KNITmuch knows that I almost never knit a project exactly as written, and the Contours Cowl is no different.

The original pattern in photo above called for worsted weight yarn, but since I was in the depths of February looking towards the hope of warmer weather when I started, I decided to go with the much lighter Donnina Merino instead.

Later I’ll share the benefits of choosing the right knitting needles and notions for your project. There will be details on how to do the Alternating Cable Cast-On and the Simple Stretchy Bind-Off. I’ll also talk about how to block your cowl to give it that professional finish.

The original Contours Cowl knit with worsted weight yarn.

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Hello everyone! With most of us at home, we’re all looking for something to knit to keep ourselves sane. I’ll share with you the Contours Cowl that I’m making with Donnina Merino Yarn.

If you’re looking for your next project, the Contours Cowl is the perfect combination of enough interesting stitch design, but simple enough to not burn out the brain while knitting it.

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My final article in this feature will be about the growing world of online knitting groups where knitters are finding ways to connected despite the distance between us.

The Contours Cowl in Blue Hint Fibra Natura Donnina Fine Italian-Style Merino yarn is a lovely addition to my spring wardrobe.

I chose the subtle, pretty colorway Blue Hint. My goal was to make a slightly smaller, definitely lighter version of the Contours Cowl. Donnina is the sport weight version of the Dona yarn by Fibra Natura. Besides being all natural fiber and really super soft, it’s also a superwash. Bonus!

The recommended needle size is 3 – 5 US [3.25 – 3.75mm] making it a sport weight yarn. Perfect for my Spring Contours Cowl.

I still wanted the cowl to be large like the original, so I added 30sts to the total cast on making my stitch count 360sts. You can increase or decrease this cowl by any amount as long as you make it a multiple of 30 stitches since the cable count is 30sts and the twisted rib border needs to be a multiple of 3 to fit neatly into the pattern. Who knew when I grew up I really would need math!

The next adjustment I needed to make was to change the needles for my project. The original pattern called for 7 US [4.5mm] needles, but I used a 5US [3.75mm] to suit the sport weight Donnina yarn.

Learn to make this light and lovely Spring Contours Cowl with Fibra Natura Donnina Fine Italian-Style Merino yarn.

I’ll share more details about how I made my final needle choice. The smaller needles made the gauge smaller, but with the added stitches to the cast on the cowl still remained large enough to be impactful.

I made one other final adjustment to this pattern by doing only six repeats of the cable chart instead of seven. The result still makes for a dramatic cowl while leaving it light enough for spring layering.

To see all of the details on my Spring Contours Cowl adjustments you can visit my Ravelry Project page.

Photos by Fiona Stevenson

Choosing the right knitting needles comes down to a lot more than simply the size, and see how I chose the best accessories to create this beautiful cowl.

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Masters in knitting choose their knitting needles wisely!

In the next set of articles there are details on how to do an Alternating Cable Cast On and the Simply Stretchy Bind Off; how to block the Contours Cowl; and how to show of your cowl using online knitting groups. I’ll be sharing how to choose the right knitting needles and notions for your project.

Many people think that needle size (US 4, 3mm, etc) and basic type (straights, circular, or DPN) are the only factors that need to be considered when choosing the needles for a project, but there are many other things to consider.

In the battle of wood vs metal, this time metal won out. My lovely collection of Knitter’s Pride knitting needles: Nova, Dreamz and Karbons

U-bend Cabling Needles by Clover

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Besides the size and type, the most important decision I make about knitting needles is its material composition. By this I mean metal, plastic, or wood. I decided to share my process of needle choice for my Spring Contours Cowl with you when I had to switch from wood to metal after just a few rounds.

In general, I prefer metal needles, but I had decided to go with a wooden set of Knitters Pride Cubics that I had a home. I love the Knitters Pride Cubics, because these needles are square instead of round which makes them easier to grip.

Since I’ve been experiencing some repetitive strain in my left hand, I thought the Knitters Pride Cubics would be best for me. Unfortunately, the ones I had were made of wood, not of metal. Wool tends to cling to wood more than metal, and I soon found knitting with them very frustrating. The stitches just weren’t moving smoothly along the needle, and this slowed me down. I usually only use wooden needles when working with particularly slippery yarns like silk to stop them from accidentally slipping off the needles. But wood was clinging a little too much to the Donnina Merino, so I needed to make a change.

At first I wanted to switch to Knitter’s Pride Zings, but I didn’t have the right size in my collection. I settled on a set of 3.75mm, 32” Knitter’s Pride Nova Platina. What a difference! After I made the switch my stitches just flew off the needles…in a good way.

The other notion that turned out to be essential for this project was a cabling needle. I usually knit cables without a needle, but this being a larger 8 stitch cable, and a finer weight yarn, I thought it wise to use a cable needle. Good thing I did! There’s no way I could have accomplished these cables as quickly and effortlessly as I did without it.

Because I had used wood before and not liked it in my knitting needle, I decided to skip my straight wooden cable needles choosing to use a plastic u-bend cable needle instead. The U-bend cable needle is the most secure to keep my cable stitches from falling off, but a wooden straight cable needle has a bit of grab that can also work, especially if they’re notched like the Knit Picks Rainbow cable needles shown in the photo below.

Knitpicks Rainbow wooden straight cabling needles. Notice the notches to keep stitches safe from dropping off.

The benefit of a straight cable needle is you can knit the cable stitches right off the cable needle instead of shifting them back to the regular needle tip. If you aren’t familiar with these two cable needles, I suggest trying them out, and see which works best for you.

The last very important accessory for this project was the row counter. I like the Mini Kacha-Kacha for two reasons.

Firstly, it has a locking mechanism, so I can throw it in my knitting bag, or have children run off with it gleefully trying to click without fear of my row count getting messed up.

My favorite counter, Mini Kacha-Kacha, will help you keep track of all your rows.

Secondly, I can pull a piece of string (or in my case, yarn) through a loop on the top, and wear it around my neck, so I don’t lose it when I get up from my knitting chair. Any row counter will do, but my Mini Kacha-Kacha is my favorite chart keeping friend!

Carefully choosing the tools you use in your knitting will make your overall knitting experience much more pleasant. Choose your weapons of yarn unwisely, and you’ll find your favorite past-time has become your enemy. You decide!

Keeping the bottom border of the Contours Cowl easy and breezy with a loose cast-on.

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How to knit super stretchy edges for the Contours Cowl So you now have everything you need to knit the free pattern Contours Cowl with super soft Fibra Natura Donnina Merino yarn.

I’ll teach you a loose cast-on called the Alternating Cable Cast-On, and a stretchy bind off called the Simple Stretchy BindOff. Both of these techniques will help make nice flexible edges, so you can block out the Contours Cowl as much as you like.

How to knit the Alternating Cable Cast-On

Let’s start with the Alternating Cable Cast-On. To begin with, you will make a slipknot and put it on your left-hand needle. Then you’ll do a single knitted cable cast on stitch. To do this go into the slipknot as if to knit, pull the loop towards you, and place it on the tip of the left-hand needle making sure not to drop the slip stitch off this needle. There should be two stitches on the left-hand needle.

Expand your knitting knowledge with two new stretchy cast-on/bind-off techniques.

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1. For the next cast on stitch bring the working yarn to the front as if to purl. Place the tip of the right-hand needle from back to front between the two stitches on the left-hand needle, and do a purl stitch, pull this stitch out a little and place it on the tip of the left-hand needle. There should now be three stitches on the left-hand needle.

2. Bring the yarn to the back. Place the tip of the right-hand needle from front to back between the two stitches on the left-hand needle, and do a knit stitch, pull this stitch out a little and place it on the tip of the left-hand needle.

There should now be four stitches on the lefthand needle.

Make your cast-on edge neat and elastic with the Alternating Cabled Cast-on.

3. Repeat Step 2.

4. Repeat Steps 1-3 until there are the desired number of stitches on the needle.

This cast on will set you up for the 2×1 rib pattern for the border and leave your edges neat and stretchy.

How to knit the Simple Stretchy Bind-Off

When the top border is finished you can use the Simple Stretchy Bind-Off to make a really loose edge. Here’s how it goes in the 2×1 rib of the Contours Cowl.

1. Knit the first stitch.

Start your twisted rib border with a 2×1 Alternating Cabled Cast-on.

2. Knit the second stitch.

3. Place the tip of the left handle through the front of both stitches on the right-hand needle and knit them together.

4. Purl the next stitch.

5. Place the tip of the left handle through the back of both stitches on the right-hand needle and purl them together.

6. Repeat Steps 1-5 until all stitches are bound off except the last one. Pass the tail of your yarn through the last stitch and pull tight to secure.

And, like that, you now have beautifully stretchy edges that will be easy to block.

To ensure the top border edge is as stretchy as the bottom one, use this Simple Stretchy Bind-off.

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How to block your knitting to perfection!

I’m so surprised how many knitters know very little about blocking. Some have NEVER blocked! What?! It’s one of the things I just assume every knitter knows, because blocking a project brings it to life.

For most of my knitting, it’s an essential part of the process. I wanted to share with you how I blocked my Spring Contours Cowl. I hope you can see how it went from nice to extraordinary through the process of blocking.

The cables opened up, the borders settled flat and stretched out really showing off the twisted rib pattern.

Get ready to block

To properly block your knitting you need:

• blocking mats

Make sure you have everything you need to get started on blocking your cowl

• Knit Blockers or T-pins • a clean plastic tub

• Soak or similar wool detergent • a clean, dry bath towel

Blocking brings the cables in the Contours Cowl to life!

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I put together two of my blocking mats to make an area large enough to stretch out my cowl. Then I filled my plastic tub with cold water adding just a single drop of Soak to it. Soak is designed to open the fibers for stretching without me needing to have the added step of rinsing it out.

Gently immerse your cowl in the Soak water.

I placed my cowl in the water, and let it get damp. It doesn’t need to be utterly saturated, but all the stitches should be wet. When you bring the wet cowl out of the water, resist the urge to wring it out. Twisting it too much will damage the fibers, and stretch the fabric in ways you don’t want. Gently squeeze out the excess water into your tub. Place your cowl flat onto the towel, and roll it up.

Again, press it don’t twist it to take out more of the water.

Roll up your damp cowl, and gently press out the excess water. Do NOT wring or twist!

See how the cables have bloomed!

If you’re like me, and you have cats that love to snuggle up on damp sheep wool (WHY!?!) you can place a dry towel over it. It takes longer to dry that way, but at least it doesn’t come out with cat hair attached to it. It may take the cowl a day or two to dry. Be patient. Wait for it to dry completely then you can remove the knit blockers. It’s almost done.

After blocking is the time I like to sew in my ends.

Place your cowl out onto your blocking mats, and gently stretch it to its desired measurements. Be careful not to stretch it out too hard. You’ll find that Donnina yarn grows generously when dampened, so there’s very little pulling needed to get it to the shape you want. I found the cables bloomed beautifully with the lightest stretching.

Using your Knitter’s Pride Knit Blockers pin the cowl in place.

Then you can leave your cowl to dry.

Et voilá, thanks to Fibra Natura Donnina yarn, you have a runway-ready Spring Contours Cowl to wear and show off to the world…whenever that’s possible again.

Et voilá! The blocking has made my Spring Contours Cowl perfect.

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Home alone? Find your knitting community online.

Online knitting groups – a knitter is never truly alone

Some of my friends and I have found comfort in online Zoom video chat knitting groups.

Careful linking into Messenger or Instagram chats – everyone in your group will be listening!

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I shared with you my secrets to making the beautiful Contours Cowl into a more spring-like cowl. The original was knit up using a worsted weight yarn, but I used the lusciously soft Fibra Natura Donnina Merino, a sport yarn in a pretty Blue Hint color. I also made a few changes to the pattern to lighten it up.

Unfortunately, in this time of COVID-19 many of us find ourselves at home, and let’s just say the family enthusiasm for our knitting can be a little underwhelming. You have a finished cowl that you’ve diligently worked on, and no one can appreciate the care that went into each stitch like fellow knitters.

But, although all the knitting groups are canceled and your LYS is closed for instore shopping, don’t despair. We have the technology to find others of our kind.

Many of the knitters have taken to online video meeting apps like Zoom to see each other face to face and bring a little normal back into our lives. If you haven’t heard of it Zoom allows groups of people to video chat in real-time with each other. It’s simple to download Zoom onto any device: cell phone, tablet, or computer. You can choose to have video and sound, or just sound (if you have just rolled out of bed, and are precoffee…or pants.) I’ve been in groups

with people from all over the world! If you haven’t found a video knitting group, I suggest you contact your LYS, or pop into your favorite Ravelry or Facebook groups to see if they’ve got one going on.

Maybe you’re not up for a Zoom video chat, but still want to connect with your tribe. There are other options out there. Instagram and Messenger programs have video chat options that you can use to connect with a select group of your knitting friends. Create a group on Messenger or Instagram, and click the video camera icon to open a group video chat. Be careful though, this will open video and sound on all the devices linked to that group, so let people know you’re going to do it before you click. Especially if you’re going to trash talk Fiona’s weird novelty hat she knit that looks like it has eyes and is trying to swallow her head. Fi may be listening…

If video chat is just a little too overwhelming, and you would prefer to just post pictures and send messages; you can join a Ravelry group to share your projects, find inspiration, ask knitting questions, and stay connected. Look for a group that’s based on something that appeals to you (ie Fi Blog Lovers), has quite a few members, and is active showing a lot of posts per month. It may take a little exploration since there are a lot of groups on Ravelry, but if you can find your perfect group of knitters it’s worth the effort.

Facebook and Instagram are still great ways to keep in touch, join in KALs, and share your projects.

Some of your favorite Facebook groups and pages have created Zoom video chats as well. Both social media platforms have live videos that are being made every day by knitters you admire. You can even add your own live video. Perhaps a video about the beautiful spring cowl you just made in this fabulous new yarn you discovered on this ahmaz-ing blog you read written by this awesome knitter and knitwear designer, Fiona Stevenson.

Yeah, come to think of it, do that.

Go enjoy the sunshine in your new Spring Contours Cowl!

Fiona Stevenson

Fiona Stevenson Designs

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Knitting with Cotton Supreme Waves

Cindy O'Malley

I’m using Heliotrope (pinks and purples), Lagoon (turquoise and teal), and Equator (bright green and blues) for my projects in this feature.

With winter behind us, it’s time to look forward to the sunny and warm days ahead.

To me, that means working with bright and light weight yarns to make those perfect summer projects. In this feature, I’m knitting with Universal Yarn Cotton Supreme Waves, which is 100%, high quality cotton in bright self striping colors.

Cotton Supreme Waves is available in 10 different colors, of which I’ll be using 3 this feature – Heliotrope, Lagoon, and Equator.

As you can see from the next picture, it’s a self-striping yarn with long cheerful color sets. The available patterns are interchangeable with Cotton Supreme DK and Cotton Supreme DK Seaspray, and the colors all work together beautifully.

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Machine washable in warm water, and tumble dry makes Cotton Supreme Waves an easy-care summer garment solution. My own personal preference is to wash my cotton knits in cold water, tumble dry until damp, and then lay flat to finish drying. This way, the colors stay bright and cheerful and depending on the item, I can shape if needed.

Each 3.5oz [100g] cake contains 230yds [210m]. I was expecting the color gradients to be consistent in the balls of yarn, meaning each cake would start and end with the same colors. But not so as the color runs are very long for each color. What this means to me is that I want to make sure my selected projects flow from one to the next when attaching the next cake.

It’s rated as a Light (DK) weight yarn with a recommended gauge of 21 sts x 28 rows using a US 6 [4mm] needle. Quite often, sweaters designed for cotton tend to have a tight gauge, which helps maintain the garment’s shape over time. I find knitting with cotton at a tight gauge to be uncomfortable on my hands, so in the next article, I’m showing swatches I knitted to determine the needle size that’s most comfortable for me to achieve the pattern gauge.

Each cake is unique due to the long color runs.

For my projects, I’ve selected a top-down Tee, an oversized shawl, and a baby blanket using my selected colors of Heliotrope (pinks and purples), Lagoon (turquoises), and Equator (blues and greens).

I know that some people shy away from selfstriping yarns because they don’t really know what to do with them. Sometimes, the results are not desirable depending upon the project.

For example, knitting a sweater flat and seaming together can result in mismatched stripes. If this is the look you’re after, great. If not, then you may be disappointed with the finished project. It’s all about choosing the right project for the yarn which is what this feature is all about.

Photos by Cindy O'Malley KNITmuch | issue 12

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Swatches...what does Cotton Supreme Waves look like in 3 needle sizes?

I’m knitting some swatches using three different needle sizes to determine which fabric I like the best. This impacts how I’ll proceed with my selected projects as the sweater pattern I chose is based on a gauge of 20 sts x 26 rows in stocking stitch using a US 7 [4.5mm] needle.

Sweater patterns designed for cotton will often have a very tight gauge so that the finished project holds its shape. There was a time when I would use the recommended needle size and knit tightly to achieve gauge. Cotton does not have elasticity so I found it to be very uncomfortable on my hands and didn’t enjoy working with it. Over time, I learned to relax and use the needle size that lets me knit comfortably and still achieve gauge. That’s what this article is about.

First Up – I’ll use a US 7 [4.5mm] needle, but I won’t try to get gauge. Instead, I’ll relax and see what I end up with for my swatch. I cast on 25 stitches and knit 2 stitches at each end and 2 rows in garter stitch. I then proceeded to knit 27 rows in stocking stitch and ended with 2 more rows of garter stitch. My swatch measured in at 19 sts and 25 rows over 4”.

Secondly – I used a US 6 [4mm] swatch using the same number of stitches and rows. This resulted in 20 sts and 26 rows over 4”.

Lastly – I used a US 5 [3.75mm] swatch with the same number of stitches and rows. This swatch measured in at 21 sts and 27 rows.

When I laundered these swatches, I placed them in a laundry bag and threw them in the wash with my other cotton undergarments and sweaters in a warm wash and medium dryer … in other words, no special treatment other than the laundry bag, but that’s because I didn’t want to lose them in the wash, so to speak. After laundering, I measured my swatches again and was rather pleased that the gauge did not significantly change.

In the past, I’ve found that hand-knitted cotton fabric may change its shape over time. It tends to expand in width and reduce in length.

This is one of the key reasons why I remove my cotton knitwear from the dryer while it’s still damp, reshape it, and lay flat to finish drying.

I must say, this is one of the softest cotton fibers I’ve knit. My preference was using the US 6 [4mm] needle and happily, that’s the right size for me to achieve the Tee sweater gauge that I’ll be working on.

I love the colors of this yarn as well – turquoise and bright green are two of my favorite summer colors.

Lavender (Heliotrope) US 7 – 4.5mm, Turquoise (Lagoon) US 6 – 4.0mm, Green (Equator) US 5 – 3.75mm

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Knitting a summertime Tee with waves of color I’m knitting a top-down Tee sweater using Heliotrope (purple and pink). I chose the Fresh Berries Tee, which is a free downloadable pattern designed for this lovely yarn. This exquisite Tee will look great on those young and perky 20 something’s in the family.

The Fresh Berry Tee knit up in Cotton Supreme Waves.

This pattern is written for a gauge of 20 sts x 26 rnds = 4” in St st using US 7 [4.5mm] and US 6 [4mm] (for the ribbing) circular needles, but as a result of swatching before, I’ll be using US 6 [4mm] and US 5 [3.75mm] needles. It also calls for using 16” circulars for the narrow parts, but since I use the Magic Loop method, I’ll stick with my 32” [80cm] needles.

I’ve chosen Heliotrope as my colorway for this pattern. The young-uns in my family are crazy for their purples and pinks, which makes this the perfect choice.

As I mentioned, the cakes are not consistent in their colorways, but the 3 cakes needed for this project are very different. One of the cakes has little to no pink, so I’ll need to do some careful planning of color for this project. I decided that I wanted pink at the neck, so I drew from the center-left ball to start my project (you can’t really see it in the photo, but the center of this ball has a small amount of pink). If you notice, the two balls with the pinkest seem to be wound in reverse. All three balls are from the same batch, so it seems rather strange. This means that I’ll be drawing from the center of the 1st ball (left), and from the outside of the 2nd (top).

Wow, this cotton is very soft and comfortable to knit with the right needle size. The color changes are exciting as it means progress. I must admit, I was planning on making the X-Small, but I got carried away with increasing and knitting and couldn’t bring myself to tinK it (Knit backward). Fortunately, both the X-Small and Small call for the same amount of yarn, so I’m good.

Heliotrope is my color choice for the pattern. Note the difference in the amount of pink between each cake.

Time to join the 2nd ball after separating the sleeves from the body.

Paused knitting the body so I could complete the sleeves in pink.

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TIP When making top-down sweaters, if you’re confused about when to M1L vs. M1R, remember this – if it’s Right of the marker, M1R; if it’s Left of the marker, M1L. I love making top-down sweaters because you can try them on as you go to ensure fit (not for me, so irrelevant); seamless (not that I mind seaming); perfect for this project as you don’t have to worry about matching upfronts to backs with the color changes.

But I must say, the absolute best part about top-down sweaters is that Hallelujah moment — when you get to separate the sleeves from the body!

Now that the body and sleeves are separated, it’s TV knitting time. Round and round you go until it’s time to join the second ball. This above picture was taken just before I joined the second ball. I know it’s a size Small, but his yarn has great yardage. As I mentioned previously, I drew from the outside of the second ball to maintain the continuity of color sequence – not critical, just my preference.

When I got down to the pink section, I paused. I decided that I wanted to finish the sleeves with pink to ensure that they were consistent. So, I stopped knitting the body, finished the sleeves, and still had pink to continue with the body. This is important to note that if you choose to make a long-sleeved sweater, the stripes would be very wide on the sleeves because there are fewer stitches. You may want to plan the sleeves so that the colors used are consistent for both sleeves. Again, not critical – just personal preference, and satisfaction with the finished project.

When it came time to join the 3rd ball, I wound off some of the outside colors so that my ending color (purple) continued with the new ball.

Now for the reveal . . .

Completed Fresh Berries Tee in Heliotrope

As you can see from the photo, I didn’t need much from the 3rd ball, so the lack of pink didn’t detract from the finished project at all. I’m very pleased with it and look forward to seeing it on my 20-something niece with her long blond hair. Unfortunately, that will have to wait until the lockdown is lifted. Hopefully, there will be plenty of summers left for her to wear it.

This proves that a top-down sweater project is a perfect match for Universal Yarn Cotton Supreme Waves, with its long color runs. If you want to make a long-sleeved sweater, just remember to plan for the sleeves; otherwise, this is a very fast and easy project.

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What to know about knitting an oversized wrap with Cotton Supreme Waves Now, I’m making this free pattern for a triangular wrap in Lagoon colorway that will show off the striping effect in a totally different way.

My inspiration came from the Flying V Shawl.

The original pattern was knit with different yarn (Universal Yarn Unity Beyond) using two colors, a self-striping and a solid. The open lacework was done with the solid, and the garter stitch sections with the self-striping. I want more lacework in my wrap, so I’ll follow the structure from this pattern to create my own.

Based on my swatching exercise, I decided to use a US 5 [3.75mm] 32” [80cm] circular needle. I opted for this needle size because the weight of the finished project will elongate the fabric. As you knit this wrap, it will get quite large, so you may choose to use a 40” [100cm] needle as it progresses in size.

I’m using Lagoon for this project and I’ve mapped out the order in which I’ll use them so that the colors will flow from one ball to the next.

For this project, you will need:

abbreviations

yarn

k knit

materials

• 4 balls of Universal Yarn Cotton Supreme Waves, in Lagoon needles

• US 5 [3.75mm] 32” (or 40”) circular needle or whatever size you need to achieve gauge • 4 stitch markers

• tapestry needle to sew in ends gauge

• 21 sts over 4” in Stocking Stitch

• 16 sts over 4” in Lattice pattern • gauge is not that important, but it will affect the overall finished size. Use whatever needle size is comfortable for you. Note that there was very little left of the 4th ball at the end.

inc’d increased

k2tog knit 2 together m marker p purl

pm place marker rep repeat

RS Right Side row sl m slip marker st(s) stitch(es)

ssk slip, slip, knit – slip 2 stitches knitwise, then knit them together WS Wrong Side row yo yarn over

finished measurements 84” wide x 32” deep after blocking

Flying V Shawl is a free pattern available for download, that was designed for a different yarn.

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This oversized shawl can be worn as a wrap (L), Poncho (C), or over the shoulder (R) as a swimsuit cover-up.

Lagoon Wrap Starting Tab

Cast on 3 sts. Knit 7 rows in garter st.

Set-up row 1 (RS): K3, rotate work 90 degrees, pick up and knit 3 sts from side of Tab, pick up and knit 3 sts from cast-on edge – 9 sts.

Set-up row 2 (WS): K3, pm, k1, pm, p1, pm, k1, pm, k3.

Set-up row 3: K3, sl m, k1, yo, sl m, k1, sl m, yo, k1, sl m, k3 – 2 sts inc’d, 11 sts.

Set-up row 4: K3, sl m, knit to m, sl m, p1, sl m, knit to m, sl m, k3.

Garter Pattern

Row 1: K3, sl m, yo, knit to m, yo, sl m, k1, sl m, yo, knit to m, yo, sl m, k3 – 4 sts inc’d, 15 sts.

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Row 2: K3, sl m, knit to m, sl m, p1, sl m, knit to m, sl m, k3. Rep Rows 1-2, 6 more times –24 sts inc’d, 39 sts.

Lattice Pattern

Set Up Row 1 (RS) K3, sl m, yo, k1, (*yo, ssk); rep from * to 2 sts before m, k1, yo, sl m, k1, sl m, yo, k1, (*k2tog, yo); rep from * to 2 sts before m, yo, k1, yo, sl m, k3. – 6 sts inc’d, 45 sts.

Row 2 (WS) K3, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, k3

Row 3 (RS): K3, sl m, yo, k1 (*yo, ssk); rep from * to m, yo, sl m, k1, sl m, yo, (*k2tog, yo); rep from * to 1 st before m, k1, yo, sl m, k3. – 4 sts inc’d, 49 sts.

Row 4 (WS) K3, purl to last m, sl m, k3

Repeat Rows 3 & 4 twice more – 8 sts inc’d, 57 sts.

From this point forward, Rows 3 & 4 form the Lattice pattern.

Garter 2 – Repeat Rows 1 & 2 – 2 times – 8 sts inc’d, 65 sts.

Lattice 4 – Repeat Rows 3 & 4 – 4 times – 16 sts inc’d, 81 sts.

Garter 6 – Repeat Rows 1 & 2 – 6 times – 24 sts inc’d, 105 sts.

Now that the pattern is established, proceed as follows

** Lattice 4 – 16 sts inc’d, 121 sts.

Garter 2– 8 sts inc’d, 129 sts.

Lattice 4 –16 sts inc’d, 145 sts.

Garter 2 – 8 sts inc’d, 153 sts.

Lattice 4 –16 sts inc’d, 169 sts.

Garter 6 – 24 sts inc’d, 193 sts.

Lattice 4 –16 sts inc’d, 209 sts.

Garter 2 – 8 sts inc’d, 217 sts.

Lattice 4 – 16 sts inc’d, 233 sts.

Garter 6 – 24 sts inc’d, 257 sts. **

Repeat from ** once more. (152 sts inc’d, 409 sts.)

Border Section

Row 1: K3, sl m, yo, k1 (*yo, k2tog); rep from * to m, yo, sl m, k1, sl m, yo, (*k2tog, yo); rep from * to 1 st before m, k1, yo, sl m, k3. – 4 sts inc’d, 413 sts.

Row 2: K3, sl m, knit to m, sl m, p1, sl m, knit to m, sl m, k3.

Garter 2 – 8 sts inc’d, 421 sts.

Cast off loosely.

Weave in ends and block.

TIP Instead of placing a marker before and after a single stitch, try using a removable stitch marker.

It will let you know it’s time to do something differently without having to slip the markers on each row. Instead, you can easily reposition it every few rows.

Try using a removable marker in place of two stitch markers.

The colors flowed very well from one ball to the next with the exception of the 4th ball. I wound off a few yards so that the color would flow from the previous ball . . . my personal preference only.

You may have noted that this is a very wide shawl, but that was intentional so that it could be worn several different ways . . . as a wrap (Left), as a poncho closed with a shawl pin (Center), or tied (or pinned) over one shoulder (Right) which makes a great swimsuit cover-up.

Although there was a lot of knitting involved in this project, it was worth it. I love the colors and the diagonal striping effect of Universal Yarn Cotton Supreme Waves, in Lagoon. It reminds me of the clear waters of the Caribbean and will be a perfect wrap on a breezy evening or as a cover-up over a swimsuit.

And it’s so soft. As promised earlier, here’s a link to the PDF version of the original Lagoon Wrap pattern.

Canadian knitter? a u o y A re read about knitting learn about knitting join Canada’s knitting community like US on Facebook!

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4 issues of A Needle Pulling Thread magazine entries into Random Acts of Knitting draws access to the Knitting Accreditation Program PO Box 562 Stn Main Orillia, Ontario L3V 6K2 www.cgknitters.ca

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Weaving a color block baby blanket with Cotton Supreme Waves Originally I had planned on knitting a blanket that would show off the long color runs in a color block or plaid type effect. But I’ve had a lot of fun experimenting with different yarns on my loom, so I thought, why not try Cotton Supreme Waves in Equator!

I know several weavers that have used self-striping yarn as the warp or the weft, but if you haven’t tried it as both, at the same time, then you’re in for a treat.

These colors are fabulous and I must admit, the acid green and turquoise are my two favorite colors for summer, actually any time. They’re bright and cheerful and look good with all skin tones, and genders . . . truly a safe and universal color, and an extremely soft texture for baby.

Before I get started with the details, I’ll just give a couple of weaving facts for the novices.

If you’re already a weaver, you know this part, so it’s OK to skip ahead to the details.

Rigid Heddle – a fixed panel that separates and moves the warp threads. It also acts as the beater to compress the weft threads with each pass.

Warp – the yarn that runs lengthwise on the loom

dpi – dents per inch – the number of warp thread slots & eyelets per inch in the heddle or reed.

Some basic terminology for the novice . . .

Shed – the separation between upper and lower warp yarns through which the weft is woven

Weft – the sideways yarn that is on the shuttle and run through the warp to create the fabric

OK, enough terminology, let’s get started.

Shuttle – that’s what you wrap the yarn around to pass it through the shed

Heddle – each thread of the warp is run through the heddle to separate the yarn, also referred to as Reed.

For this project, I used 3 balls of Cotton Supreme Waves, Equator for each blanket. As I mentioned previously, I like to experiment, so I used two different heddle sizes … a 7.5 dpi for one blanket and a 10 dpi for the other. In knitter’s terms, that means 30 warp threads over 4” for the first, and 40 warp threads for the second.

Cotton Supreme Waves in Equator – turquoise and bright green are two of my favorite colors.

28'' Ashford Knitters Loom warped with Equator on a 10 dpi heddle.

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This yarn is rated as a Light, which means DK most of the time. It’s actually more of a plump DK, meaning it can act as a Worsted (20 sts = 4”) or a DK (22 sts – 4”) in knitters’ terminology.

In weavers’ terminology, it typically means a 7.5 dpi heddle, but I wanted to see what would happen if the warp threads were denser by also using a 10 dpi. The process is the same, regardless of heddle size.

I planned to make each blanket 28” wide x 42” long. Woven fabric will condense once it’s off the loom and washed, therefore my finished blanket will be approximately 10% smaller in both width and length.

3. Tie yarn to the front warp stick 4. Run scrap yarn through the warp to even out the threads (the pink yarn)

5. Wind weft yarn on the shuttle

6. Heddle up, pass the shuttle through the shed (Leave a tail that’s 2 – 3 times the width of your woven fabric. This will be used to hem stitch the first row.), beat; Heddle down, shuttle through, beat; repeat

7. Before winding the woven fabric onto the front roller, hem stitch the first row. There are a number of YouTube videos available to learn this technique. Here is a link to Kelly Casanova’s tutorial.

The steps

1. Direct warp the threads onto the loom – I planned on 45” + 18” waste = 63” warp 2. Thread yarn through the eyelets of the heddle

8. Once the Hem Stitch is complete, wind the fabric on to the front roller in readiness to continue.

9. Put on your favorite tunes and pour a beverage – I find John Fogerty and a good Pinot Grigio is a perfect combination.

10. Heddle up, pass shuttle, beat; heddle down, pass shuttle, beat; repeat

11. Continue weaving until the last row. Repeat Hem Stitch to secure the last row.

I don’t like to waste any warp threads, so I continued to pass the shuttle until there was no possible room left. Then I took it off the loom and tied the warp threads in groups of 3 to create a small fringe.

TIP Insert a removable stitch marker every 30 rows. This helps to determine how much fabric has been woven and wound onto the front roller.

The 7.5 dpi blanket (L) has more of a plaid or color block look to it, while the 10 dpi (R) has a subdued weft with prominent warp stripes.

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The finished measurements for each blanket, not including the fringe are: 10 dpi

• 278 Warp Threads, 328 Weft Rows • 42½” L x 25½” W before laundry

• 39¾” L x 24½” W after laundry 7.5 dpi

• 210 Warp Threads, 376 Weft Rows • 45¾” L x 25¼” W before laundry • 43” L x 24½” W after laundry.

help but wonder, “what would this look like woven”.

I really enjoyed making these three projects and showing how a self-striping yarn with long color runs can be used for a variety of projects. By going with smaller needle size, I was able to knit the Tee and Wrap without hurting my hands. The yarn is so soft that it was a pleasure to knit.

My ensemble is complete with the lovely petite Fresh Berries Tee in Heliotrope, the Lagoon Wrap, and two adorable baby blankets in Equator, all made with Universal Yarn Cotton Supreme Waves.

Each project illustrates how you can use this self striping yarn to creates some beautiful garments and accessories.

The 10 dpi created a slightly thicker fabric than the 7.5 dpi, but the real difference is in the overall look of the two.

With the long The 7.5 dpi color runs blanket has more available in 10 of a plaid or different colors color block look it’s sure to put to it, while the some brightness 10 dpi is more in your summer subdued in the knitting (or weft lines with weaving) the warp more projects. prolific creating If you don’t a vertical stripe have any Cotton The completed ensemble – Lagoon Wrap with diagonal stripes, Fresh Berries look. I’m quite Supreme Waves Tee with horizontal stripes, and two color blocked woven baby blankets in pleased with Equator – all made with Cotton Supreme Waves. in you stash, both of them contact your and they are Local Yarn Store incredibly soft. The colors are really gender-neutral (LYS) to see if they stock it, or if they can order it for making them perfect gifts for new babies. you. Many LYS’s are offering curb side pick-up or I originally purchased my loom to help manage my mail orders, and the knitted patterns referenced in plentiful yarn stash. Weaving is so much faster than this feature are all available online. knitting that I thought I could burn through some Stay safe and knit your isolation away. Soon we’ll all stash, but you guessed it, I now have a weaving be back to strutting our knitwear in public. stash as well. When I look at some yarns, I just can’t

Cindy O'Malley

cindooknits.blogspot.com 42

KNITmuch | issue 12

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Knitting with Merino Mist yarn

Cindy O'Malley

Merino Mist is available in 10 different colors. I’ve chosen to use Rain Cloud (silver), Thunder (black & silver), and Night (black).

In this feature, I’m knitting with Rozetti Yarns Merino Mist, which sports a shimmer that’s sure to brighten up any dreary day.

Feather-soft and surprisingly lightweight, this elegant yarn is made from blown construction; meaning the fibers are blown into a mesh tube, which creates a warm halo and results in a light and airy yarn that is reflected in its generous yardage of 167yds [153m] per 50g ball. Merino Mist is comprised of 20% Merino, 60% Viscose, and 20% Acrylic.

Viscose is a type of rayon fiber that is made from natural sources such as wood and agricultural products, often bamboo, and is known as artificial silk.

Merino Mist is available in 10 different colors, of which I’ll be using 3 this week – Rain Cloud, Thunder, and Night. Not only do I like the color assortment, I love the names. You might think that I’d select brighter colors to combat the winter blues, but the shimmer of Rain Cloud and

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Thunder were my inspiration – they reminded me of New Year’s Eve celebrations.

The recommended laundry care for Merino Mist is to hand wash and lay flat to dry. Let’s take a closer look at “blown” yarn construction.

Merino Mist is a blown yarn, meaning the fibers are blown into the shimmering mesh tube, giving it a lovely soft haze.

The mesh tube is likely the viscose component, and is very similar to an I-cord which provides the shimmer quality to the yarn. The Merino and Acrylic components are blown into the tube and protrude slightly to provide a soft halo

around the shimmer. I didn’t photograph Night (black) as the shimmer is so subtle, it’s really only noticeable in bright sunlight.

That’s okay with me as I think it really complements the other two colors. Blown yarns do not typically split while knitting like some plied yarns can; nor do they pill easily. They are known for being light, yet warm.

The recommended gauge on the label reads 5-6 sts = 1” using a US 5 – 7 [3.75 – 4.5mm] knitting needle. That’s interesting as it means it should range from a sport to a worsted weight; i.e., 20 – 24 sts per 4” [10cm]. I’ll put this to the test to determine which gauge I like the best.

Merino Mist is a blown yarn, meaning the fibers are blown into the shimmering mesh tube, giving it a lovely soft haze.

33 swatches determine the best knit fabric

I’m knitting some swatches using three different needle sizes to determine which fabric I like the best. This impacts how I’ll proceed with my selected projects as the sweater pattern I’ve chosen is based on a gauge of 23 sts, with two different row counts of 27 and 30 over two different needle sizes.

I’m using Rain Cloud for my swatches as the silver will be much easier to count the stitches and rows than black. So let’s see what I get.

First up – the US 5 [3.75mm] swatch using 24 sts and 30 rows in stocking stitch. When the swatch was first completed, it measured in at 22½ sts over 4”. The row count was 31 rows for 4”. After the fabric relaxed for a while, it actually measured in at 21 sts over 4”. I’m normally a gauge knitter, but did not achieve the expected 6 sts per 1”.

Secondly – the US 7 [4.5mm] swatch using the same number of stitches and rows as the previous swatch. Initially, this swatch measured in at 19½ sts over 4”, and 18 sts after relaxing for a while. The row count resulted in 26 rows over 4”. The knitted fabric was a lot more relaxed than the previous swatch.

Lastly – the US 6 [4.0mm] swatch with the same number of stitches and rows. This swatch measured in at 21 sts over 4” initially, and 20 after relaxing. The row count was 27 over 4”.

Of the three, my preference is the last swatch. All three fabrics are lovely, but I like the feel and drape of the fabric made with the US 6 [4.0mm] needle the best.

I didn’t launder my swatches, but this is a good practice to do before measuring. As mentioned, my stitch count changed from when it was first made until it had a chance to relax. Laundering can change this again, so you should always launder your swatch to get a better feel for what the finished and blocked garment will be like.

Three swatches (from Left to Right) using US 5 [3.75mm], US 7 [4.5mm], and US 6 [4.0mm]. All three fabrics are lovely with great stitch definition, but my preference is the US 6 [4.0mm] version.

You may be wondering why I’m so concerned with the row count of each swatch. The sweater pattern I’ve chosen is top-down construction. Row gauge can be very important to the finished size from the shoulders to the underarms as pattern increases (and decreases) are usually based on rows. If you don’t take this into consideration, you could end up with a saggy armhole opening or worse yet, too short.

I’m starting the sweater using a US 6 [4.0mm] needle, therefore, I’ll need to calculate how my gauge will impact the pattern. I’ll be using Merino Mist in Rain Cloud and Night to make a bright and cheery sweater.

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Knitting the Jay Sweater in Merino Mist for a perfect fit I’m knitting a top down yoke sweater using Merino Mist, Rain Cloud and Night colorway. The pattern I chose is the Jay Sweater which is a free downloadable pattern. This lovely sweater was originally designed for Fibra Natura Kingston Tweed, which is gauged at 21 sts over 4” using a US 6 [4.0mm] needle. You’re likely thinking, like I did initially, that’s great, I can use Merino Mist on my US 6 [4.0mm] needle!

However, the devil is in the details.

This pattern is written for a gauge of:

23 sts x 30 rnds = 4” in St st using US 7 [4.5mm] needle, and 23 sts x 27 rnds = 4” in Yoke pattern using US 6 [4.0mm] needle.

That means the stitch count for this pattern is based on 23 sts over 4” as opposed to the yarn rating of 21 sts. If you forge ahead without taking this into consideration, you could end up with a sweater much larger than expected. Another consideration is the amount of ease. That’s the difference between your actual bust size and the finished garment bust size. This pattern is written for 3½” of positive ease, meaning if you measure 34” in the bust, you would be looking to make the Small as it has a finished bust size of 37½”. Ease gives us some leeway in our finished measurements.

Since I prefer the fabric created using a US 6 [4.0mm] needle, I’ll do some calculations to see what adjustments I need to make to the pattern.

I want to end up with a finished measurement around 41”, i.e., Medium. The calculation is 4” gauge (21) divided by 4, times the finished size — (21 / 4 * 41 = 215.25). Now compare this number to the total body stitches. The Small calls for 216 stitches, while the Medium calls for 236 stitches.

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If I had forged ahead in making the Medium, I would have ended up with a sweater that was 44″ – 45” around – way too big. So size Small it is, however, I still need to check the yoke pattern details to ensure that I don’t end up with armholes that are too short for me. Fortunately, this pattern instructs you to work even in stocking stitch after the yoke pattern and increases are complete until the desired measurement for the armholes. No adjustments needed on my part, but I’ll use the measurement for the Medium, not the Small.

I’m ready to proceed with Rain Cloud (silver) as the neckband and pattern, with Night (black) as the main color. One other important note when knitting with black yarn; make sure you have really good lighting. We all love black, but it can be a real challenge to see.

I really enjoyed knitting this yoke pattern. I had to keep stopping to admire my work as I went along.

As self serving as that may sound, it’s actually a really good practice. I was able to catch the odd error right away, which meant I could fix it easily without ripping out my work. Rain Cloud has great stitch definition against Night which made it easy to spot any errors, and looks fabulous.

I love making top down sweaters because you can try them on as you go to ensure fit. I definitely tried it on once the sleeves were separated from the body because I wanted to make sure the armholes were in the right place for me … and they were.

Once separated, it’s into the boring (I mean great TV watching) knitting. Round and round you go until reaching your desired length (by trying it on of course). I didn’t want it cropped, so I made it longer.

Now it’s time to pick up the stitches for the sleeves, and here’s where I deviated from the pattern. The pattern is designed for ¾ length sleeves, and I wanted full length sleeves. Also, I’m using the stitch count from the Small, so the pattern decreases are based on that size, which may not work for the Medium length.

So I did a little trial and error on the first sleeve and tried it on as I went. I finally settled on the following:

• Started decreasing at 2¼” from pickedup edge (pattern calls for 1¼”) • Repeated decreases every 8th round 4 more times • Then every 6th round 6 times (48 stitches remaining as opposed to 56)

The stitch definition on the yoke made it very easy to spot any errors so I could correct them easily without ripping out my work.

• Worked even in St st until 2” before desired length (tried it on).

I did something when knitting the sleeves that I don’t normally do – I inserted a stitch marker on every decrease. Remember, it’s black yarn and counting black rows is difficult.

I left the markers in the first sleeve so I’d know what to do for the second sleeve.

I’m not good at writing it down as I go, so leaving the stitch markers in until I completed the second sleeve was a godsend.

Then I decided I wanted to tie in the yoke pattern, so I did the following:

• Work yoke pattern into sleeve as follows (B=Black, S=Silver):

Stitch markers to mark each decrease makes it easier to identify row counts when working with black yarn.

• B S S S

• S S B S S B

• B S S

• B B S B B S (x 2) • B S S S B B • S S B S S B

• B S S S B B

• B B S B B S (x 2) • S

• Work K1, P1 rib (in Silver) until desired length (tried it on again), cast off.

And now for the finished product . . .

I really enjoyed making this sweater and expect to get a lot of wear out of it. One little snag with black yarn – it’s a dust and hair magnet. Fortunately, I have a lint remover for that unsightly lint. Now I’m looking forward to making some accessories.

The completed Jay Sweater made with Rozetti Yarns Merino Mist in Night with Rain Cloud used on the yoke pattern and bottom of the sleeves.

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Making a simple cowl glamorous using Merino Mist yarn What’s a snood, you say? It’s a cowl that you can pull up to cover your head when the wind blows and you're without a hat.

I’m knitting with Rozetti Yarns Merino Mist, which sports a shimmer that’s sure to brighten up a dreary winter’s day. If you missed it, see how my version of the free pattern, Jay Sweater, turned out using Merino Mist in Rain Cloud and Night.

Hint: Stunning!

I’m making an accessory to wear with my dazzling Jay Sweater.

Originally, I planned on making a cowl that doubles as a snood.

Sample of One Color Brioche via: Courtesy of Briochestitch.com

Sample Fisherman's Rib via: Courtesy of Briochestitch.com

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I really like the look of the Cozy Snood, which is a free downloadable pattern. It looks so warm to wear while walking on a brisk winter’s day, but then I thought it may be a little too warm once indoors, like a shopping mall or store. It’s knit flat and seamed, so I thought I’d close it with buttons instead.

That way I can undo the buttons without pulling it off over my head when I stop at the store. I even bought the buttons that would go with all three of my colors (Rain Cloud, Thunder, Night) beautifully. Then I thought; do I really want to do and undo all those buttons? Of course not.

So I decided to look at the pattern details to see if I could come up with something else that was a little easier to pull on and off, yet keep the quality that I really like about the pattern – the open rib. The pattern calls it a Brioche Rib.

I don’t claim to be a Brioche expert, but in my experience, Brioche is accomplished through yarn over and knit (or purl) two together. This pattern calls for knit below, which in my experience is known better as a Fisherman’s Rib. Since I’m not a Brioche expert, I consulted with a knitting pal of mine, who is a Brioche expert.

She confirmed my thoughts in that the resulting fabric is very similar in appearance, however, the technique is very different.

Since this is not the first time I’d come across the “knit below” technique termed Brioche, I decided to research it more and discovered that the two terms are often used interchangeably.

In my research, I happened upon a website that's an amazing resource for both techniques, briochestitch.com.

As you can see from the images above, these are two different techniques that look the same.

It's easy to see why the two terms are used interchangeably.

I finally decided that I’d make my favorite winter wearable accessory, which is a long cowl (infinity scarf ) that I can wrap around my neck to keep me nice and warm when outside, and easily unwrap a layer when inside.

I also wanted to use two colors so I chose to use a conventional Brioche stitch, in the round.

If you’re new to Brioche, it’s easier to learn in the round rather than flat. In the round, it’s a two row repeat; four if worked flat.

Fisherman’s Rib is a single row repeat when worked flat. Both Brioche and Fisherman’s Rib are reversible fabrics, meaning both sides are right sides. Since there’s no wrong side, I’ll refer to Side A and Side B. When knitting two color Brioche flat, you need to

use a circular needle as you need to knit two rows on Side A before turning your work to knit two rows on Side B. When knitting in the round, the first round works Side A (i.e., brk), and the second round works side B (i.e., brp).

For this project, I’m knitting in the round using Rain Cloud (MC) and Night (CC) and a two color Brioche technique. Here are the pattern details.

abbreviations k = knit p = purl sl = slip stitch purlwise yo = yarn over wyif = with yarn in front

brk (brioche knit) knit the stitch that was slipped in the previous row together with its yarn over

brp (brioche purl) purl the stitch that was slipped in the previous row together with its yarn over materials

• 1 ball of each Rozetti Yarns Merino Mist Rain Cloud and Night gauge

16 sts = 4” on US 6 [4.0mm] circular needle, however, gauge isn't that important but does affect overall size.

Instructions

Using a US 6 [4.0mm] circular needle and MC, cast on 240 stitches (to wrap 3 times), 180 (to wrap 2 times), do not turn your work, slide the stitches to the other end of the needle and attach CC.

Set-Up Roundwith CC: wyif, *sl1yo, p1; rep from *.

Place a marker onto your needle or hang a marker on the first stitch. Now join for working in

the round, being careful not to twist your stitches.

Round 1 MC: (forms MC “knit’’ columns, slips “purl’’ columns) With MC, *brk1, sl1yo; rep from *.

Round 2 CC: (forms CC “purl’’ columns, slips “knit’’ columns) With CC, wyif, *sl1yo, brp1; rep from *.

Rep Rounds 1 & 2 until desired length.

For the longer version, I recommend working the rounds until it measures 6" – 6½” in height (or until to run out of yarn) as it will wrap around your neck 3 times. If making the smaller version, you may choose to continue until your work measures 8” as it will only wrap around twice.

Completed Brioche Cowl in Rain Cloud and Night wrapped 3 times.

Cast off loosely. I used a US 7 [4.5mm] needle for my cast off.

Remember to incorporate the yarn over with its corresponding slipped stitch (brk or brp) in your cast off row.

This very simple, yet elegant pattern is based on an instructional tutorial provided by briochstitch.com, with amazing results. If you're not quite convinced about two color Brioche or working in the round, I suggest you follow the instructions for the Cozy Snood using the Fisherman’s Rib technique. You'll achieve a very similar look to that of single color Brioche with only a single row repeat, and you can easily size it into a long cowl by adding more stitches.

This was a fun project and I must admit, I was caught up in the brk1,s1yo* motion, so much so, that I intended to stop at 6” and ended up with 6½”. I really like how the two colors of the Merino Mist complement each other.

When indoors, you can easily unwrap one of the layers without fear of it falling off.

Or simply loop one end through the other for a relaxed look.

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Soft and cozy arm warmers complete the Merino Mist trio Rozetti Yarns Merino Mist in Rain Cloud, Thunder and Night colorways. The perfect combination.

I’m making a pair of forearm warmers to keep the winter chill from blowing up the sleeves of my overcoat. What inspired this project was the Jay Sweater, which is designed to have ¾ length sleeves. I don’t wear ¾ length sleeves in the winter because my arms get cold. I like wearing plaid shirts over T-shirts, but seldom do because again, my arms get cold. Solution – make forearm warmers to keep out the chill, yet are easily removable when indoors.

Also, I’m anxious to use Thunder which combines the shimmer of Rain Cloud with the subtly of Night. Originally, I contemplated using Rain Cloud and Thunder together on the Jay Sweater, but was concerned it would look like a disco ball. I think my instincts were right. It would have been overkill on the shimmer.

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This is a very easy project that you whip up while watching TV. I opted to use one of my favorite sock patterns – a waffle stitch.

To begin, you’ll need a US 6 [4.0mm] 32” circular needle for Magic Loop or 4 dpns, and one ball of Merino Mist Thunder.

Loosely cast on 40 stitches. There are a number of loose cast on methods, e.g., Cable Cast On, Rib Cast On, etc. I tend to use a long tail cast on but alternate the yarn around my thumb to create Knit and Purl stitches for ribbing.

I thought perhaps this was a Rib Cast on, but have since learned that it’s a little different, but accomplishes the same thing.

Merino Mist Thunder combines the sheen of Rain Cloud with the subtle haze of Night

The sleeves start and end with a 2 x 2 rib, so cast on 2 knit-wise, then 2 purl-wise. This creates a stretchy cast on which is great for socks.

You can adjust the size by casting on less or more stitches in multiples of 4.

Illustration of how to alternate the yarn around your thumb and index finger to make knit and purl cast on using the Long Tail method.

I like my sleeves to be long to cover the base of my thumb.

Join in the round, being careful not to twist your stitches.

Rib Rows 1 – 6: *K2, P2, repeat from *.

Pattern Rows

Rows 1 and 2: Knit.

Rows 3 and 4: *K2, p2, repeat from *.

Repeat rows 1 – 4 until desired length and end with Rows 1 and 2.

Rib Rows 1 – 6: *K2, p2, repeat from *.

Cast off loosely. There are a number of methods to cast off loosely, but I used a US 7 [4.5mm] needle to cast off my stitches, which also gives you a loose cast off.

I like my sleeves to be long; i.e., from just below my elbow to covering my wrist completely and the base of my hand, but you can make them any length you like.

The completed ensemble of Jay Sweater, Brioche Cowl, and Forearm Sleeves, all made with Merino Mist.

Now I can wear ¾ length sleeves along with my Forearm Sleeves to ward off winter’s chill. I can still wear my gloves under them, or scrunch them up.

My ensemble is complete with my dazzling Jay Sweater, Brioche Cowl, and Forearm Sleeves, all made with Rozetti Yarns Merino Mist. With the 10 colors available in Merino Mist, you’re sure to put some dazzle in your razzle.

Cindy O'Malley

cindooknits.blogspot.com KNITmuch | issue 12

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Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com

KNITmuch

Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com Standard Yarn Weight System Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com

Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes Standard Yarn Weight System

Standard Yarn Weight Yarn Weight System

...to K, is to

Standard Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and abbreviations hook sizes & terms Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes alt = alternate Symbol & Category Names

Yarn Weight Yarn WeightType of Symbol & Fingering, Sock, DK, Worsted, Chunky, Sport, Bulky, Jumbo, Symbol & Yarns in Category 10 count Fingering, Light Afghan, Craft, Baby Roving Roving Category Category Names crochet thread Baby Worsted Aran Rug Names Type of Fingering, Sock, DK, Worsted, Knit Gauge Type of Range* inFingering, Sock, Worsted, Fingering, Chunky, Sport, Yarns in DK, 10 count Sport, 23–26 Bulky,7–11 LightJumbo,6 sts Afghan, Baby 33–40** 27–32 21–24 16–20 12–15 Yarns in Stockinette10 count Fingering, Light crochet thread Afghan, Baby Craft, Baby Category Roving sts Worsted Rovingand Aran sts Category Stitch tocrochet thread sts Baby sts Worsted sts Aran sts Rug sts fewer Knit Gauge 4 inches Knit Gauge Range* in 33–40** 27–32 23–26 21–246 sts 16–20 Range* in Recommended Stockinette 12.75 mm sts 33–40** 1.5–2.2527–32 2.25–3.25 23–263.25–3.75 21–243.75–4.5sts 16–204.5–5.5 sts 12–155.5–8 sts 7–11 8–12.75 sts and StockinetteNeedle in Stitch to and sts sts mm sts mm sts mm sts mm sts mm mm sts mm Stitch to Metric Size fewerlarger 4 inches Range 4 inches Recommended Recommended Recommended Needle in 1.5–2.25 2.25–3.25 3.25–3.75 3.75–4.5 17 4.5–5.5 1 1 to 3 3.25–3.75Metric 3 to 5 Size 11 to 17 mm12.75 mm and Needle in Needle U.S.1.5–2.25 000 to 2.25–3.25 3.75–4.55 to 7 mm4.5–5.57 to 9 mm 5.5–89 to 11 mm8–12.75 andlarger mm Metric SizeSize Range mm mm mm Range mm mm mm mm larger Range Crochet Recommended Gauge*Ranges 32–42 6 sts Recommended 21–32 16–20 8–11 3 to 5 7–9 5 to 7 17 Needle U.S. 12–17 000 to 1 11–141 to 3 in Single double and 7 to 9 sts Range5 to 7 sts Needle U.S. 000 to 1 1 to 3 sts 3 to 5 Size 7 to 9 sts 9 to 11 sts 11 to 17sts and Crochet to crochets** fewer Size Range4 inch larger Crochet Crochet Gauge*Ranges 32–42 Steel*** 21–32 16–20 12–176 sts15 mm 11–14 Recommended Gauge*Ranges 32–421.6–1.4 mm in Single double 2.25–3.25 3.5–4.5 4.5–5.5 21–32 16–20 12–17 11–14 sts 8–116.5–9 sts 7–9 9–15 sts and and sts 5.5–6.5mm in Single Hook in Metric doubleRegular hook Crochet to crochets** mm sts sts mm sts mm sts sts mm sts mm Crochet to Size Rangecrochets**2.25 mm fewerlarger 4 inch 4 inch Steel*** Recommended Steel*** Steel*** 2.25–3.25 3.5–4.5 4.5–5.5 1.6–1.4 mm 15 mmQ 5.5–6.5mm Recommended Recommended 3.5–4.5 Hook in Metric 4.5–5.5 Regular hook I–9 mm 6.5–9K–10 1⁄2 mm 9–15M-13 mm 1.6–1.4 mm 6, 7, 82.25–3.25 5.5–6.5mmto and and Hook in Metric SizetoRange Hook U.S.Regular Size hookRegular mm B–1 to E–4 mm E–4 7 mm 7 to I–9 mmto M-13 mm to Q 2.25 mm Size RangeRange largerlarger K–10 1⁄2 2.25 mm hook B–1 Steel*** Steel*** Recommended 6, 7, 8 I–9 commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

Recommended* GUIDELINES 6, 7, 8 ONLY: The above reflect the mostHook U.S. Size RegularI–9 B–1 to E–4 E–4 to M-13 7 7 to I–9 Q to 1 K–10 ⁄ 2 Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a 1 and Hook U.S. Size** Regular B–1 to E–4 E–4 to 7 Rangethe7 gauge to I–9 stated to ⁄2 hook K–10 gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow in your pattern. to M-13 to Q larger Range hook K–10 1⁄2 B–1 *** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse B–1 of regular hook sizing.

approx = approximately beg = begin(ning) BO= bind off CC = contrast color ch = chain cm = centimetre(s) Chunky, cn = cable Bulky, needle Jumbo, Craft,co = cast on Roving Roving Rugcont = continue, continuing dc = double crochet dec = decrease(s), decreasing dpn = double-pointed needle(s) 6 sts 12–15foll = following 7–11 and g = gram(s) sts sts hdc = half double crochetfewer inc = increase(s), increasing in(s) = inch(es) k = knit 12.75and mm back of st (increase) kf&b or kfb = knit into front 5.5–8ktbl = knit8–12.75 through the back andloop mmk2tog = knitmm 2 sts tog (right-leaning decrease) larger k3tog = knit 3 sts together (double right-leaning decrease) m = marker 17 9 to 11m = meter(s) 11 to 17 and m1 = Make 1 stitch: pick up the horizontal strand largerfront to back and knit it between 2 stitches from tbl (lifted increase) MC = main color mm = millimetre(s) 6 sts 8–11oz = ounce(s) 7–9 and sts p = purl sts fewer p2tog = purl 2 sts tog (decrease) patt = pattern pfb = purl into front and back of stitch (increase) pm = place marker 15 mm slipped stitch over 6.5–9psso = pass9–15 and RS = right side mm mm larger rem = remain(ing) rep = repeat rev = reverse rnd = round sc = single crochet Q K–10 sl1⁄2 = slip M-13 skp = slip one st, knit next and st, pass slipped st over knit to M-13 st (dec)to Q larger ssk = slip, slip, knit: slip 2 sts knitwise, 1 at a time, insert left-hand needle into front of both sts and knit them tog (left-leaning decrease) sssk = slip next three stitches individually, knitwise.

This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are above available at: YarnStandards.com * GUIDELINES ONLY: The reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

Insert tip of left needle from front to back into * GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly usedweight gaugesyarns and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories. ** Lace patterns.

Accordingly, a the fronts of these three stitches and knit them 11 are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork gaugeneedles range isand difficult toto determine.

Always followpatterns. the gauge stated in your together (double left-leaning decrease) ** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger hooks create lacy, openwork Accordingly, a pattern. gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern. st(s)the = hook, stitch(es) *** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller which is the reverse St st = stocking stitch regular hook sizing. *** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular of hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse tbl = through back loop of regular hook sizing.

This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at: YarnStandards.com tog = together This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at: YarnStandards.com tr = treble crochet 11 WS = wrong side 11 yo = yarn over

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