KNITmuch | Issue 15

KNITmuch

ponc ho · knitted toys · double-knitted pocket scarf · hats · mittens

...to K, is to Issue 15

KNITTING with

Lion Brand Yarn Wool Ease Feels like Butta Hue + Me

Knitted fabrics texture designs How to knit tidy edges Designing a hat using elements from a poncho Double-knitted pockets BABY knits collection Revisiting Seed Stitch & Moss Stitch KNITTING LION BRAND WOOL EASE MAKES WARM AND EASY CARE PROJECTS

KNITmuch

...to K, is to

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ART DIRECTOR Carla A. Canonico Carla@KNITmuch.com ADVERTISING SALES John De Fusco John@KNITmuch.com PUBLISHER A Needle Pulling Thread PHOTOGRAPHERS John De Fusco, Carla A. Canonico, Contributors BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS Fiona Stevenson fionastevensondesigns Cindy O'Malley cindooknits.blogspot.com Cynthia MacDougall cgknitters.blogspot.com GRAPHIC DESIGN Carla A. Canonico Carla@KNITmuch.com Sondra Armas Sondra@KNITmuch.com SOCIAL MEDIA and WEB Sondra Armas Alejandro Araujo WEBSITE / BLOG : KNITmuch.com Like us on Facebook : KNITmuch Follow us on Twitter : @KNITmuchmag WHERE TO GET YOUR COPY KNITmuch is a quarterly eMagazine published by A Needle Pulling Thread. It is available free for personal use online at KNITmuch.com.

A limited number of printed copies of KNITmuch are available for purchase at select yarn shops and specialty stores. Ask for it at your local shop. KNITmuch is not available by subscription.

YARN SHOPS If you are interested in carrying KNITmuch in your store, please email John@KNITmuch.com.

EDITORIAL Bloggers, designers and other contributors who would like to be considered for future issues please email Carla@KNITmuch.com with a brief description of your work and your proposed project.

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No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are for private, non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted material owned by their respective creators or owners.

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Knitted Fabrics Texture Designs Feels Like Butta yarn knits up soft beyond belief!

The Beginner Knitter Skills Builder - Step 1: I Wanna Knit a Blanket The Beginner Knitter Skills Builder – Step 2: Pompom Baby Hat The Beginner Knitter Skills Builder – Step 3: Baby Booties The Beginner Knitter Skills Builder – Step 4: The Cuddly Caterpillar Knitting Lion Brand Wool Ease makes warm and easy care projects Knitting swatches to determine needle size and to measure gauge Knitting a warm hat with patterns from the Poncho Are they hand warmers or mittens … you decide Knitting the Galway Poncho with confidence Smooth and speedy knitting with Hue + Me Seed Stitch and Moss Stitch and Hue + Me yarn How to knit tidy edges Double-knitted pockets add functionality to a knit scarf A double-knitted pocket scarf with Hue + Me – part 2

c o n t e n t s KNITmuch | issue 15

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editor's

letter Complex knitting patterns are a lot of fun to make, they are exciting, and they improve my knitting skills. It’s such a relief and satisfaction however to get to the bind off, much like the finish line at a marathon!

In between challenging knitting patterns, I love to chill on my next project and choose a super easy knit. Knits like simple shawls, scarves, and hats are a good choice. Baby knits too are a perfect choice they are bite-size projects even expert knitters love to make for that mindless quick fix!

In this issue are some of the most adorable baby knits that satisfy that fix.

Fiona Stevenson pulled together a collection of baby knits that are perfect for gift giving. These baby knits are followed by adventurous projects based on

The Galway Poncho, a free downloadable pattern designed for Lion Brand Fisherman’s Wool. Cindy O’Malley shows you how she took elements of the Galway Poncho to design hand warmers/mittens, and my favorite, a hat! I will knit that hat by the time winter is back this year! Check out her toasty knitting patterns.

To round out the content of this issue are some technical articles about knitting smooth edges and going over the moss and seed stitches. And, in preparation for next winter, Cynthia MacDougall shares her pattern for the doubleknitted pockets as an element of a collared scarf.

From challenging to easypeasy, I hope you will enjoy this KNITmuch issue!

Wishing you happy knitting adventures!

Cheerfully,

follow me KNITmuch | issue 15

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Knit Together

with Cynthia MacDougall

Knitted Fabrics Texture Designs

F Photo by Mike Guilbault.

abrics are an integral part of human life.

They touch us almost every minute of every day, from our facecloth in the morning to the welcome crispness of our bedsheets at night. Most of the fabrics that surround us are woven on looms using warp and weft threads. Knitting is different. Although often described as a form of ‘off loom’ weaving, knitters use one strand of yarn or thread to ‘weave’ their magic. Knitting gives us unique opportunities to create our own fabrics.

Cynthia MacDougall Canadian Guild of Knitters PO Box 20262 Barrie, Ontario L4M 6E9 705.722.6495 1.866.245.5648 (CGK-KNIT) www.CGKnitters.ca blog: cgknitters.blogspot.com ravelry name: theloveofknit

In addition to being able to knit fabrics in shapes that can be assembled to fit the human form, knitters can create fabrics that offer textural and colour diversity. The possible permutations are almost limitless.

The first knitted fabric a beginning knitter makes is often the humble garter stitch, followed closely by stocking stitch. Knit and purl stitches, however, can be combined to make hundreds of all-over patterns. Depending on the arrangement of the knit and purl stitches, the fabrics can draw in horizontally, such as in ribbing, or expand horizontally, such as in seed stitch.

Ribbing is often used for the edges of sweaters to give them structure and durability, and to keep drafts from wafting up sleeves or hemlines. Ribbing can also be used to create an allover fabric. The entire back of the Hummingbird Garden Vest (featured in the May 2008 issue of Knit Together) was made in a knit 2, purl 2 rib.

This is a great pattern to use to make a comfortable garment that snugs the body nicely.

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Broken ribs can also be used to make a knitted fabric. The River Rib Toque and Boot Cuffs, featured in the Festive 2010 issue of A Needle Pulling Thread, use a knit 3, purl 3 rib broken

every 3 rows to produce the fabric shown in the photo. This same design could be used to create a fabric for a matching vest. [For more information about broken ribs, see Cynthia’s article about broken ribs in the Festive 2010 issue.]

Another knit-purl pattern is the chequerboard. Seed stitch is the tiniest variation of the chequerboard. Next up is Double Seed stitch. The Anything Blanket, is an example of a chequerboard of alternating stocking stitch and reverse stocking stitch blocks. The example in the photo uses four knit stitches and four purl stitches that are ‘switched’ every four rows.

Any number of knit and purl stitches switched any number of rows can be used, but when working with chequerboards of more than four stitches, additional rows may be required to keep the checks square. [The Anything Blanket is a free pattern available from Canadian Guild of Knitters’website, www.cgknitters.ca.]

Photos courtesy of Cynthia MacDougall.

Knit/purl chevrons, like the one in the photo below, create a pattern in which the stitches continue horizontally across the row. Chevrons can also be made by using increases and decreases. When this method is employed the stitches ‘tilt’ away from the increases and toward the decreases.

This can be used effectively to make a decorative, scalloped edge on sleeves or cuffs and is particularly noticeable when the chevrons are worked in coloured stripes.

Charles Voth’s Bunbury’s Trellis vest, featured in ANPTmag Issue Fall 2011, is an example of knit and purl stitches combined with twisted stitches, mock rib columns, and an interesting stitch that increases the number of stitches on one row and decreases them back over several rows to create a fabric with several elements.

The chevrons in this photo are created by making a pattern of knit stitches on a on a reverse stocking stitch ground. In this sample, the lines of stitches go straight across each row.

When increases are 'stacked' upon each other, the stitches are 'pushed' away from the increase. Stacking the decreases upon each other 'pulls' the stitches in and keeps the stitch count consistent on every row.

The result is that the stitches tilt toward the decreases. This affects the cast on edge of the piece by making small scallops or zig-zags. In this sample, closed increases (M1) were used to make the left panel, and open increases (yo) were used to make the other three panels. The two left panels have repeats of 12 stitches, and the two panels on the right have 8 stitch repeats to show how a difference in the number of stitches in a panel affects the overall look.

in two colours, this design can be worked effectively with only one colour. Another option for this stitch would be to use a variegated colour for the background colour and a solid colour for the ‘floats’.

Slip stitches can be used to make very dense fabrics, suitable for hard-wearing garments that need more structure, such as skirts and jackets. Linen stitch is an example of a good ‘suit fabric.’

The Pinstripe Vest by Robin Hunter, also featured in the Fall 2011 Issue, uses slip stitches to create a fabric. In it, she uses slip stitches every 4 stitches to create a contrasting colour stripe.

A common use of slip stitches is on the heel flap of socks. Slipping the odd-numbered stitches on one row, and the even-numbered stitches on the next right-side row makes the fabric more dense, which makes it wear longer than plain stockinette stitch.

Like most knitting patterns slipped stitch designs can be varied by striping two or more colours on alternating rows.

By ‘floating’ the contrasting yarn across the front of the work, yet another effect is achieved. The following photo has the lighter colour carried in front of the darker colour to create ‘floats’. Several rows later, the ‘floats’ are picked up and knitted into the fabric. Although this example is shown

Ideas for knitted fabrics can be found in numerous places, from old knitting pattern books to compilations of knitted patterns produced by various publishers. My personal favourites are the works of Barbara G. Walker. Her Treasury of Knitting Patterns is a staple in the library of many knitting designers. She wrote three additional volumes, referred to affectionately as ‘treasuries’, and many of the patterns from her books have been adapted for use in other knitting pattern guides. Other sources of all-over fabric ideas include the Harmony Guides and the Vogue Stitchionary series.

Every so often, I’ll grab a stitch dictionary and some scrap yarn and try out a pattern that appeals to me. In addition to finding out whether the pattern has potential for a future project or design, I learn about various yarns, whether the pattern works better with a larger-than-expected size of needle, and sometimes learn a new technique. Other observations include what the stitch pattern does to the structure of the fabric. The pattern might cause the fabric to pull in, expand horizontally, compress vertically, or make either an airy fabric or a dense one. It might also show that a pattern would benefit from using larger or smaller needles.

Knitters have the ability to create hundreds of diverse patterns all from a simple knit stitch and a simple purl stitch. With these fabrics we can touch many lives. z Sources: A Treasury of Knitting Patterns by Barbara G. Walker.

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This is a zany collection of knitted sock patterns to tickle your funny bone every time you wear them.

Thoughtful Soles Series

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DARK MUSHROOMS

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KNITmuch | issue 15

All the knitting tools and accessories you need at your fingertips!

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KNITmuch | issue 15

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Feels Like Butta yarn knits up soft beyond belief!

Fiona Stevenson

Normally, I don't like to do a straight up yarn review, but every once in a while, there's a yarn that just blows me away. Feels Like Butta from Lion Brand Yarns is one of these exceptions. Like the name suggests it really is buttery soft! It's silky and squishy at the same time, so it's just perfect for knitted baby blankets and clothes. I find myself also contemplating on the kind of knit stuffed animal I would like to make. I love it when a yarn engages my imagination, and Feels Like Butta has done just that.

Beyond just how it feels, the stitch definition is glorious! I'm working a simple knit stitch for this week's knit baby blanket project (I Wanna Knit a Blanket by Lion Brand), and I keep staring at how crisp the stitches are. It almost looks like I'm doing a special pattern like seed stitch, but it's just simple garter stitch. I'm really looking forward to trying cables with Feels Like Butta. I think they're gonna pop!

Feels Like Butta lives up to its name!

Just so you know how extraordinary it is for me to love this yarn so much, I'll make a confession to you.

I'm a yarn snob. I use almost exclusively natural fibers.

There was a time when acrylic would never cross the threshold of my yarn stash, but I've discovered acrylic has its uses. Because it's cost effective, I can complete larger projects, like blankets, without blowing the yarn budget. Most acrylic is machine washable, so I use it for projects that are being knit for friends and family who don't want to provide extra special care like hand washing.

Photos by Fiona Stevenson

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I make baby knits exclusively out of acrylics or superwash yarns. Dads and moms will know that baby clothes, blankets, and stuffies are forever covered in... let's not say what. They need durability to endure frequent washings. So, in the case of these kinds of knits I prefer acrylic yarn. Feels Like Butta doesn't make acrylic feel like a sacrifice, because, well, it feels like butta! I think I've found my new go-to yarn for infant/toddler knits.

I'm taking advantage of all the benefits of Feels Like Butta yarn. I’m also helping beginner knitters get out of the scarf or dishcloth trap with four beginner projects that will make one great baby shower gift set. Starting with the aptly named I Wanna Knit a Baby Blanket pattern by Lion Brand Yarns I will add three more projects, all free downloads, that will be perfect to help beginner knitters build their skills.

Each project will lead into the next starting with the simplest flat garter stitch knit and ending with a cute knit-in-the-round plushy. All you need to know for the first project is the knit stitch, and purl stitch is used in the next two projects, so if you know only how to do these two stitches then you’re good to go!

By the end of this feature, you can learn to make all of these.

There will be information and tutorials to guide you from baby blanket to a pompom hat then booties, and finally a cuddly little caterpillar. Each project builds on the next, giving beginner knitters all the skills required to take their knitting to the next level... and next...and next. I’ll get you started on the I Wanna Knit a Baby Blanket with instructions on YO increases, K2tog decreases, color changes, and finishing details.

The loft of this yarn makes the stitch definition out of this world!

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The Beginner Knitter Skills Builder Step 1 I Wanna Knit a Blanket The I Wanna Knit a Blanket baby project is a great super easy knit. I chose this project first then realized there was going to be lots of yarn left over from the five balls it requires. I hate to waste yarn, and that got me thinking, what else could a beginner knitter make with the rest? On a search through the Lion Brand patterns I discovered a lot of options, but I chose these four patterns for the learning opportunities they offered. All these knits will be made with just five balls of Feels Like Butta yarn!

Here are the skills developed for each project: • I Wanna Knit a Blanket

• Yarn Over (YO) (instructions in pattern) • Knit two together decrease (K2tog) • Changing colors • Sewing in ends

• PomPom Baby Hat • Rib Stitch

• Changing colors

• Knit two together decrease (K2tog) • Sewing seams

• Pompom making • Booties

• Make one (M1)

• Changing colors • Carrying yarn

• Knit two together decrease (K2tog) 12

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• Sewing seams

• Cuddly Caterpillar

• Knitting in the round • Make one (M1)

• Knit two together decrease (K2tog)

• I cord (instructions in pattern “Antennae”)

The patterns are listed from easiest to hardest but are all beginner friendly. My hope is that new knitters can go from #1 to #4 building on their skills as they go. Or find a project that matches their skill level and dive into it. You’ll see that some techniques are written in the Lion Brand pattern. For those techniques that are not, I will add tutorials in my posts. Let’s get started with I Wanna Knit a Blanket.

This very easy pattern is knit from corner to corner using increases, yarn overs, and decreases, knit two together.

You’ll need the following supplies: • Feels Like Butta Yarn

» Color A - 2 balls color #100 White

» Color B - 2 balls color #101A Pink » Color C - 1 ball color #150D Charcoal

• US 5 [3.75mm] circular knitting needle, 32” or 36” • yarn needle

Although the blanket is knit on a circular needle, it’s actually knit flat not in the round. Using a circular to knit flat just allows for easier knitting as the blanket gets larger. You can choose to use very long straight needles if that’s all you have on hand.

Yarn Over (YO) Increases

You’ll be using yarn overs to increase the width of your blanket and create the lovely decorative lace at the border of the blanket There are written instructions in the pattern for the yarn over stitch, and here is a video tutorial as well: https://youtu.be/HAzRbBNH5UE Knit Two Together (K2tog) Decreases

Knit Two Together is as simple as it sounds, so often it doesn’t get explained in patterns. I remember in the beginning struggling to figure out the things that the pattern assumed I knew, so I’ll add this simple instruction for your benefit. When a pattern says Knit Two Together (abbreviated as K2TOG or K2tog) you will be making two stitches into one. Put the tip of your right-hand needle into the next two stitches on the left-hand needle, and knit these two stitches together. Here’s a video tutorial to help if you are a visual learner: https://youtu.be/nVOPcIVoOko

Now you are ready to start! This blanket is knit from corner to corner like this:

For the first half you’ll be doing yarn over increases, and the second half you will do knit two together decreases. The yarn over increases are easy but watch out for the decreases on the second half of the blanket.

Because we want to keep that nice yarn over lace at the border of the blanket, but still decrease there will be two K2tog stitches.

Why? The YO still increases a stitch each row. If we only did one decrease stitch the stitch count on the row would remain even: +1 (YO) and -1 (K2tog) = 0. But we need the blanket to decrease by one stitch per row on the second half to create the square shape we want, so we need a total decrease of one stitch on each row like this: -1 (K2tog) and +1 (YO) and -1 (K2tog) = -1. Knitting is a lot of math, but don’t be afraid the pattern has done all the hard work for you. If you follow the instructions as written, you will easily get ‘er done.

Color Changing

The next technique that may be new to a beginner knitter is changing colors: https://youtu.be/MZKNuDQNlmM Again, this is a skill that most knitters don’t even think about, but if you're new to the craft you may never have done this before.

In this pattern sometimes they will tell you to cut the color of yarn you are working with, and sometimes they will say not to cut it. If they say to cut it make sure you cut the strand about 4 inches long, so you can sew it in at the end. With the new color make a tail of about 3-4 inches then simply start knitting with it. The edge stitch will be a little loose, so once you’ve knit a few stitches in you can do a single tie of the old color strand with the new color, but don’t tie a full knot. When you sew these ends in knotting them may make your edge a little uneven. You don’t have to worry that your blanket will unravel, because the 4-inch lengths that are leftover will be sewn in to secure them.

I Wanna Knit a Baby Blanket knits up super soft with Feels Like Butta yarn.

I Wanna Knit a Baby Blanket pattern free from Lion Brand.

Weaving in Ends

It’s very hard to describe in words how to sew (weave) in ends, so I think a video tutorial works best. I hope this is helpful: https://youtu.be/p05xKbQ0-R0

I Want to Knit a Blanket is knit on the bias working from corner to corner like the graphic above.

Look! You’ve got a beautiful new baby blanket! I loved this pattern and this yarn so much that I’m planning on buying a lot more Feel Like Butta, holding 3 or 4 strands together, using a much larger knitting needle, and knitting myself a big blankie.

Almost done...just a few ends to weave in!

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The Beginner Knitter Skills Builder Step 2 Pompom Baby Hat

After you finish your I Wanna Knit a Baby Blanket there will be lots of yarn for more baby projects. Let’s start with Lion Brand Yarnss PomPom Baby Hat.

The PomPom Baby Hat is a free download, then we can get knitting together!

This infant hat is knit flat starting with the striped brim in ribbing then moving into a textured broken rib pattern for the rest of the hat. This simple patterning gives the hat a lovely texture. Since the hat is knit flat instead of in the round, you’ll need to sew up the seam to finish it. On the top is a sweet little pompom which is easy to make, and is the perfect flourish to this baby hat.

The Feels Like Butta yarn colors for my PomPom Baby Hat are as follows: Col A: pink

Col B: gray

Col C: white Brim

Cast on using Col A

Rows 1 and 2: Col A Rows 3 and 4: Col B

Rows 5 and 6: Col C

Rows 7 and 8: Col A

Rows 9 and 10: Col C

The rest of the hat is knit in Col B.

You don’t need to follow my color scheme and can choose the color stripes that you like.

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Closing the top of the hat Step 1: Pass yarn needle through remaining stitches as you drop them off the knitting needle.

I used gray for the main part of the hat, because that was the color of yarn I had the largest amount left after the blanket was completed. Now, if you have never done 1x1 Rib Stitch before (that’s the stitch used for the brim) I suggest you watch this video tutorial to get you on the right track: https://youtu.be/O6njIAmq-nY Once you’ve completed the brim, you’re ready to move onto the main part of the hat. Switch to Color B, and begin to work the simple broken rib pattern that is a 8 row repeat found in the BODY OF HAT section. Don’t forget to knit 3 rows of Stockinette Stitch in between the two rib sections! If you don’t know what Stockinette Stitch is, it's the pattern that is created by knitting on the right side and purling on the wrong side of your work. This is explained fully in the pattern. Continue repeating the same 8 rows until the desired length is achieved. The last row of the hat is K2togs.

When you are ready to finish the top of your hat you will cut your yarn leaving a 6” strand of yarn.

Pass this tail through the eye of your yarn needle then slowly pass the needle through each remaining stitch on your knitting needle dropping the stitches off as you go. Pull tight to close the top of the hat (See photos above).

Closing top Step 2: Tighten the yarn to close the top All our hat needs now is a pompom!

The next step is to sew up the side of the hat. I used the 6” tail of gray yarn to sew up the side of the hat until I got to the brim. You’ll need to use a mattress stitch to sew up the body of the hat. Here is a great video to show you how: Mattress Stitch Video 1: https://youtu.be/46IUyefCkXA

If you’re having trouble seeing how to do the mattress stitch here’s a video by Very Pink that is slow motion: Mattress Stitch Video 2: https://youtu.be/wQnAfTmI0iA

Once you get to the rib section you’ll need to sew together the sides. It really doesn’t matter what color of yarn you use, because it will disappear into your seam as you work. Here is a good video to show you how to stitch up the seam of the brim: Sewing Together Rib stitches video: https://youtu.be/FkNP0gH2WAU

Pompoms are easy to make with these Clover PomPom Makers!

Sewing (also called “weaving”) in the ends is easy if you follow along with these quick video tutorials: Weaving in Ends in Ribbing video: https://youtu.be/ohtv2fyd_lY

Weaving in Ends in Stockinette video: https://youtu.be/v-p4qsiyuI8 Pompom makers are one of my essential knitting tools. From the Clover PomPom Maker Set.

I used the second largest to make my pompom. I alternated rows of pink and white yarn to make my sweet puff! With the strands of yarn left over from tying the pompom together at the center, I attached it to the top of the hat by tying the ends around the top stitches with a knot on the inside of the hat then weaving in the ends. The bonus of a pompom is that it covers the small hole left when you close the top of the hat off. And it’s CUTE! Here’s a very helpful video tutorial that shows how to use these pompom makers: Pompom maker video: https://youtu.be/W7tb_9YKoMU

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The Beginner Knitter Skills Builder Step 3 Baby Booties

How cute are these!!! Are you ready to make baby booties?

Though Booties look more challenging, they are easy with the skills you’ve already learned on the baby blanket and hat, and just a couple simpler techniques. It is knit flat then the sides and bottoms of the slipper are sewn up to finish them. I used the gray yarn for the foot of the boot then alternated 2 rows of white and two rows of pink 1×1 ribbing for the cuff.

What You’ll Need

• Feels Like Butta gray, white, and pink yarn left over from Tuesday’s baby blanket • US 4 [3.5mm] and US 5 [3.75mm] needles • stitch markers • yarn needle

You’ll need some stitch markers to make up this pattern. If you have never used stitch markers before they are really simple. The Booties pattern tells you where to place your markers. When you come to a marker you slip the marker off the tip of the left needle to the right needle and continue to follow the next instruction in the pattern. If you’ve never used stitch markers before I recommend locking stitch markers like the orange one in the photo below. If you accidentally knit in your stitch marker, you can just simply open it like a safety pin and slide the stitch marker out of your knitting.

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The first new technique you’ll encounter in this pattern is a Make One increase (M1).

The hardest part of this when I was a novice Set up for success with Locking Stitch Markers. knitter was finding the strand between the stitches. I’m sharing a quick video with you to help you, but simply if you pull open the space between the last stitch worked on the left needle and the next stitch to be worked on the right needle, you will see a strand of yarn between them. You will take the tip of the left-hand needle, put it below this strand from front to back, and pick it up as a new stitch. With your right hand needle you’ll knit into the back of this stitch. If this description is as clear as mud watch this video tutorial to help you: https://youtu.be/U3YAFIFgSf0 The next technique is the K2tog which was taught in Monday’s post for the baby blanket.

Make sure you add your stitch markers See how neatly the toe is formed with just a few according K2togs! to pattern instructions. Magically as you do these decreases the shape of the toe appears! It’s really fun to watch it happen!

Once you’re finished the foot section you’ll start working with the white and pink yarns to create the cuff. This section is done in 1×1 ribbing. If you need a refresher on that technique, you can rewatch the video in the post about making the PomPom Baby Hat. As for the color pattern in the bootie cuff, I started with white, and did four rows of white and four rows of pink switching back and forth between the two colors until I had knit a total of 24 rows. There are two methods of switching colors like this: cut the strand at the end of each section then add the new colour or carrying the yarn up the side as you color change. I prefer the second method as it has a lot fewer ends to weave to finish the bootie. As you can see: photo A shows the many strands left by simply cutting the yarn at every color change, and photo B shows just a few strands left to weave in after carrying the yarn up the side. If you decide to simply switch colors the instructions on how to switch them are in the previous post for the I Wanna Knit a Baby Blanket.

If you’d like to learn how to carry your yarn up the side, you can watch the video: https://youtu.be/N8r0_SVfGU0 To finish these booties, you’ll need to bind off in pattern. That means you’ll continue to knit and purl in the ribbing pattern.

If you have forgotten how to bind stitches, don’t panic! A lot of newbie knitters struggle to remember the bind off technique.

Quite simply you will knit one stitch, purl the next stitch. Then on the right-hand needle you will have two stitches.

Photo A - cut strands

Photo B - carried strands

Photo 1 - Step one is stitching up 1x1 ribbing

You’ll pull the first stitch on the needle (the stitch that was knit) over the second stitch on the needle (the purl stitch). There should now be just one stitch on the right-hand needle. You’ll go on in the ribbing pattern, knitting or purling one stitch, then pulling the left stitch on the right-hand needle over the right stitch. If this doesn’t make sense watch this video to help you through it.

1x1 Rib Bind Off: https://youtu.be/2P-U4vXbuDA Finally, you’ll need to sew up your bootie. I chose to sew it from the top of the cuff (photo 1) to the back of the foot, and finally the bottom of the foot (photo 2).

There you are, BOOTIES! Once you’ve knit a pair of these you’ll fall in love with how quick and fun these are and may find yourself knitting up many more. These are wonderful to give away as gifts for friends and family or your favorite family outreach program. Or, like me, use them to decorate your favorite pet (tee hee).

Photo 2 - Step 2 is sewing up the foot.

Ready to work a little more magic with this super soft Feels Like Butta yarn by Lion Brand?

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The Beginner Knitter Skills Builder Step 4 The Cuddly Caterpillar Now we are knitting in the round to make this free downloadable pattern, Cuddly Caterpillar.

This stuffed toy is so perfect for babies to cuddle.

What you’ll need

• 1⁄5 of a ball of Feels Like Butta Yarn in pink and white and gray • US 5 [3.75mm] 32” circular needle

• US 5 [3.75mm] DPNs (Optional - see Icord section) • a stitch marker (to mark the start of your round)

• Black plastic safety eyes 6mm

• Crafter's Choice® Dry Fiber Fill • yarn needle

How to knit in the round

It’s finally time to use Feels Like Butta by Lion Brand Yarns to make the cutest Cuddly Caterpillar EVER!

Make sure to place and attach your eyes before you finish the head!

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Now, onto the knitty-gritty of knitting in the round. There are two main ways of knitting in the round: DPN (double pointed needle) knitting and Magic Loop knitting. My preferred way of doing in the round projects is Magic Loop. There’s just one singular circular needle to manage. DPNs require 3-5 needles. Either technique works, though, so I recommend you move to DPNs if Magic Loop is just too, uh...loopy. Everyone is unique, so techniques are varied to suit different kinds of knitters.

I suggest that you grab some scrap yarn and practice knitting in the round for a while before jumping into the caterpillar project. There are some increases at the very beginning that may

be a little difficult if you haven’t already developed some comfort with knitting in the round.

I’m not going to give some written instructions for Magic Loop, because it is very hard to explain without visuals. Instead watch the video I’ve made on the technique. It may take a few tries to get it right. I think it took me at least three attempts before the technique clicked for me. Now I could knit Magic Loop in my sleep!

If for some reason the Magic Loop technique just doesn’t work for you try using DPNs and following this video tutorial.

DPN video: https://youtu.be/XqkIdJ3WSzA

Once you’ve practiced knitting in the round until you’re comfortable with either method, you can cast on for the caterpillar.

I started with pink, and instead of considering this the head, I made it the bum. There are a bunch of increases - first the knit front and back stitches on the first round then M1s on following rows. If you have forgotten the M1 stitch, quickly hop back to previous Bootie post to rewatch the video.

If you need a reminder of the K2tog stitch, you’ll find the video on baby blanket post. In case the instructions in the pattern for knitting into the front and back of the stitch is not clear to you, here’s a quick video you can watch: KFB video: https://youtu.be/-Eh-ieWIaM0

The result of the increases at the beginning was a kind of star or flower (I tried several times to cast this on, always with the same result) which I didn’t want in the middle of my caterpillar’s face. It was also convenient to finish with the face to add the eyes just before closing off the project. Other than that change, I knit the project as written except for the colors.

The color changes went like this: Segment 1 (Bum)

• Rounds 1-16: PINK • Round 17: GRAY Segment 2

• Round 1: GRAY

• Rounds 2-16: WHITE • Round 17: GRAY Segment 3

• Round 1: GRAY

• Rounds 2-16: PINK

I chose plain black 6mm eyes and placed them evenly on either side of the head about 12 rows apart. I filled the head with stuffing. Before closing the end off, I placed the eyes. Pulling out most of the stuffing, I pushed the washers of the safety eye onto the stems to lock them in place. Then I finished stuffing the head and closed off the end by passing the yarn through the remaining stitches and tightly pulling it closed. Pass the needle down through the stuffing, up through a stitch, down through a neighboring stitch, and through the stuffing then out through the back of the head. You can just cut the yarn off close to the fabric then stretch until the end disappears into the body of the stuffy. Here’s a video on how to properly add the safety eyes. It shows a method for adding a stitched eyelid, but I didn’t use it.

• Round 17: GRAY

Adding plastic eyes: https://youtu.be/Tvr44q6TeaA

• Round 1: GRAY

How to knit Icord

Segment 4

• Rounds 2-16: WHITE • Round 17: GRAY Segment 5 (face)

• Round 1: GRAY

• Rounds 2-17 and final 3 rnds: PINK I think you’ll catch onto the pattern after the first couple of segments.

About the eyes

TAKE NOTE! Make sure you attach the eyes before you close up the face of the caterpillar. In the pattern they give instructions for crocheted eyes, but I wanted to make my life a little easier by using plastic safety eyes instead.

Ok, I know you’re exhausted with all the learning, (though I do hope you took lots of time to rest and absorb each lesson!), but there’s one last thing to learn to complete your caterpillar. And I really saved the best for last.

Icord stands for “Idiot Cord”. You may remember making Icord by cording when you were a kid. It’s really fun to knit it, too! I used a 3.5mm needle and 3sts instead of 2 to make the antenna tightly knit and more substantial, so they would stand up a little more.

For each antenna you cast on 3sts either on a DPN (recommended) or your circular needle.

Icord Instructions

1. Knit all sts.

2. Don’t turn your work but slide all the stitches down the needle to the right until they are at the tip.

3. Taking the yarn from the farleft side of your row, pull the yarn snug then knit all 3sts.

4. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until you have the desired length (2½”/6.5cm).

Finishing the knit Icord antenna

Cut your yarn leaving a 4” strand.

With a yarn needle pass the yarn tail through all the remaining stitches and pull it through the middle of the tube and out the bottom to finish it. You can use the tail coming out the bottom to sew the antenna to the head.

Tie a little knot on the top end, the one opposite to the yarn tail.

YOU DID IT!!!! I’m thrilled to have brought you through this journey from absolute beginner to advanced beginner. Now, you can set your sights on socks, mittens, and sweaters. You can dive into lace, cables, and colorwork with confidence and daring do. I’m proud of you!

You have a beautifully soft baby set and knitting skills to share with the world. I hope you have enjoyed your adventures

Fiona Stevenson

likeafox.ca/fiona-stevenson-designs.html KNITmuch | issue 15

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Lion Brand Wool-Ease . Oxford Grey and Tawny Port

’ll be knitting with Lion Brand WoolEase, which is a medium weight yarn that blends the warmth of wool with the ease of acrylic.

Available in 12 different colors that include natural shades, heathers, soft tones, and bold solids like Tawny Port, Wool-Ease is an extremely versatile yarn for making afghans, sweaters, and accessories.

I’ll be knitting with Oxford Grey and Tawny Port, which are two of my favorite colors for winter accessories.

I’m often asked by other knitters for colors that are suitable for men’s garments. I would definitely recommend Oxford Grey as it’s on the darker side of medium that is great for menswear, but not exclusively, as I like it too. I love a good burgundy … both in a stemmed glass and in yarn, and Tawny Port is a lovely burgundy color.

Knitting Lion Brand Wool Ease makes warm and easy care projects

Cindy O'Malley

Wool-Ease is a blend of 20% Wool and 80% acrylic which makes for easy care – machine washable and dryable is perfect for laundering those hats and mittens that can come home rather messy.

Wool-Ease in Oxford Grey is a deep grey heather color.

In a close up view of an individual strand of Oxford Grey, you can see the heathery tonal quality of the yarn. It looks very wooIly, but is actually quite soft to the touch. Another knitter in one of my knitting circles has an allergy to wool and can’t knit with it. She wanted to make a sweater for her husband and decided to try a wool acrylic blend. Much to Each 3oz [85g] ball contains 197yds her surprise, she was able to knit [180m], with a recommended without it affecting her. That may knitting needle of US 8 [5.0mm] not be true for everyone with a = 18 sts x 24 rows = 4” [10cm] in wool allergy, but it was a pleasant stocking stitch. The recommended surprise for her. Depending upon crochet hook is US J-10 [6.0mm] how it affects someone, it may be = 3.2 sc x 16 rows = 4” [10cm]. worth trying a smaller project like The recommended gauge for a hat. this medium weight (4) yarn is applicable to an Aran weight, but I discovered that it knits quite nicely at a Worsted weight gauge of 20 sts = 4” [10cm].

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I wouldn’t normally reveal the final project until final post, but I'll make an exception. I’ll be making the Galway Poncho with Wool-Ease in Oxford Grey. This pattern is rated for Experienced Knitters, but it’s my belief that the only way to become an experienced knitter is to take on new challenges.

If you feel intimidated by all those patterns being used together, don’t be. These posts are all about smaller projects that use some of the motifs and then tips on how to work them all together in a single project in the hopes of replacing intimidation with confidence.

The Galway Poncho is a free pattern designed for Lion Brand Yarns.

Photos by Cindy O'Malley

Knitting swatches to determine needle size and to measure gauge Let's knit some swatches to measure my gauge and needle size that I’ll use on my projects, I’ll be using 3 different needle sizes to determine the gauge for some of the pattern motifs.

For my first swatch, I cast on 26 sts, with a US 8 [5.0mm] needle, knit 4 garter stitch rows, then proceeded with a slipped stitch edge and 2 garter sts at each side, and stocking stitch for the main field. My results were 18 sts and 24 rows = 4” – Right on the recommended gauge. Now for the experiments.

For my second swatch, I wanted to play around with a rib stitch that combined one of the patterns from the Poncho. I used a US 7 [4.5mm] needle and cast on 26 sts, maintained the slipped stitch edge and 2 garter sts at each side, but didn’t do garter stitch rows at the top and bottom of the swatch. I love the rib effect it created, which can be a bit of a challenge to measure stitch counts, but I wanted to see how it measured out when left natural.

The result of my 20 sts and 26 rows, without stretching out the fabric was 3” wide by 4” high.

1st Swatch with US 8 [5.0mm] needles measured in exactly at the recommended gauge.

2nd Swatch with US 7 [4.5mm] needle in a twisted rib measured 3” x 4” without stretching.

3rd Swatch with US 9 [5.5mm] needle with Patterns B and D from the poncho.

The poncho pattern calls for 22 sts and 22 rows = 4” [10 cm] in pattern with US 9 [5.5 mm] needle. There are a lot of patterns used in the poncho so I settled on using two of them in my swatch to see what I’d get.

I wasn’t overly concerned since it isn’t a fitted garment, but did want to see the fabric it created before I started the project.

Although my swatch didn’t match the gauge, I did seem to get about 6 sts and 6 rows = 1”. Perhaps if I had done all the patterns together it would have measured out more accurately, but like I said, I wasn’t overly concerned since it isn’t a fitted garment. I was pleased with the fabric so the US 9 [5.5mm] works with the pattern motifs nicely.

For the last swatch, I went back to the US 7 [4.5mm] needle to make a stocking stitch swatch, I found that it knit up rather nicely to a Worsted weight gauge of 20 sts x 26 rows. The fabric is a little denser which works out perfectly for the project I have in mind.

From a picture standpoint, the swatch looks exactly the same as the 1st swatch.

I’m happy with the results of my swatches and I’m ready to proceed with my projects.

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Knitting a warm hat with patterns from the Poncho I’m knitting a hat that uses a few of the pattern motifs from the poncho that I’ll be making.

Based on the results from knitting swatches, I’ve determined the needle size that I’ll use to make the band and crown of the hat.

The Hat Pattern materials yarn

• 3oz [85g] ball of Wool Ease in Tawny Port needles and hook

I’ll to use Tawny Port for the hat.

It’s a rich burgundy color that should accentuate the pattern motifs I’ve selected.

The hat band will be knit first using two of the patterns from the poncho, then stitches picked up and knitted for the crown using two other pattern motifs. The hat band is worked flat, joined, and the crown is worked in the round using either double pointed (dpns) or circular needles.

The pattern motifs I’m using on the hat band are the 4/4RC (4 over 4 right cross), which is also known as a C8F cable stitch, and 1/1RC (1 over 1 right cross). The 4/4RC is performed on the 5th row and every 10th row afterwards while the 1/1RC is performed on every right side row, i.e., every 2nd row.

Sometimes, it can be a challenge to count the rows to know if you’re on the 8th or 10th row of a cable pattern. An easy tip for keeping track of your rows is to use a removable marker to tag the 1/1RC on the same row as the 4/4RC. This way, you only need to count the number of 1/1RC rows to know when it’s time to do the 4/4RC.

• US7 [4.5mm] crochet hook or close in size • US7 [4.5mm] knitting needles

• US8 [5.0mm] 16” circulars or 32” circulars for magic loop, or dpns Use a removable marker to tag the 1/1RC on the same row as the 4/4RC.

As you can see from the picture above, I opted to use a provisional cast on to start my hat band with the intention of either grafting the ends together with Kitchener stitch or using a 3 needle bind off. I haven’t had very good results in the past when grafting in pattern so I consulted with 2 of my knitting buddies that are both experienced knitters. Neither of them have had good results in the past and both ended up doing a 3 needle bind off instead.

That’s what I ultimately did to join the hat band but to be perfectly honest, it was more trouble than it was worth. It would’ve been easier to just cast on and off and seam the two ends together so that’s the instructions I’m giving in the pattern. Why complicate it. But I must say that tagging the 1/1RC to count the rows for the 4/4RC made the job much easier.

• cable needle notions

• stitch marker

• tapestry needle

finished measurement Fits a 20 – 22” head. gauge Band

6 rows = 1” in pattern on a US 7 [4.5mm] needle. Note the row gauge is important to the finished size. To make the hat larger, use a larger sized needle.

Crown

20 sts = 4” in pattern on a US 8 [5.0mm] needle. To make the hat larger, use a larger sized needle. abbreviations K = Knit

P = Purl

St(s) = Stitch(es)

PM = Place Marker

BOR = Beginning of Round Rnd = Round

Dec = Decrease 22

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kfb (knit in front and back) Knit next st without removing it from left needle, then k through back of same st - 1 st increased.

CDD (Center Double Decrease) Slip 2 sts knit-wise, then slip 1 st knit-wise and knit all 3 sts together through the back - 2 sts decreased.

1/1LC (1 over 1 left cross) Slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in front of work, k1, then k1 from cable needle.

1/1RC (1 over 1 right cross) Slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in back of work, k1, then k1 from cable needle.

4/4RC (4 over 4 right cross) Slip 4 sts to cable needle and hold in back of work, k4, then k4 from cable needle.

Crown

With right side of the band facing, pick up and knit 96 sts, PM to mark BOR. Remember to slip the marker on each round.

Dec Rnd 5: K5, CDD, *K10, CDD; repeat from * to last 5 sts, K5. 77 sts

Knit 1 round.

Dec Rnd 7: K4, CDD, *K8, CDD; repeat from * to last 4 sts, K4. 63 sts

Set Up Rnd: *K8, P2, K4, P2, repeat from * to end of round.

Dec Rnd 11: K2, CDD, *K4, CDD; repeat from * to last 2 sts, K2. 35 sts

Rnd 2 and all even rounds: Work sts as presented; i.e., Knit the knits and Purl the purls.

Dec Rnd 15: *CDD; repeat from * to end of round. 7 sts

Increase Rnd: *K5, kfb, repeat from * to end of round. 112 sts

Dec Rnd 9: K3, CDD, *K6, CDD; repeat from * to last 3 sts, K3. 49 sts

Rnd 1: *K3, 1/1RC, K3, P2, 1/1LC, 1/1RC, P2; repeat from * to end of round

Dec Rnd 13: K1, CDD, *K2, CDD; repeat from * to last st, K1.

21 sts

Rnd 3: *K3, 1/1RC, K3, P2, 1/1RC, 1/1LC, P2; repeat from * to end of round

Cut yarn and draw through remaining 7 sts to close up.

Weave in ends.

Set up Row: P3, K2, P2, K2, P8, K2, P2, K2, P3.

Start Decreases:

Row 2 and all even rows: Work sts as presented; i.e., Knit the knits and Purl the purls.

Rnd 2 and all even rounds: Knit.

I’m very pleased with the end result. Tawny Port was an excellent choice for highlighting the patterns of the hat. It also fits really well, so I’m claiming it for me. Think I’ll make another band with the leftover yarn as it will make a great headband – warm and beautiful. That one I’ll give to someone in their stocking.

Lion Brand Wool-Ease is available in 12 different colors. I’ll be using Tawny Port for the hat.

The finished hat with Wool-Ease in Tawny Port.

The Hat Band

With crochet hook and US 7 [4.5mm] needles, cast on 26 sts and leave a long tail for seaming.

Rows 1 & 3: K3, P2, 1/1RC, P2, K8, P2, 1/1RC, P2, K3.

Row 5: K3, P2, 1/1RC, P2, 4/4RC, P2, 1/1RC, P2, K3.

Repeat these 4 rounds 3 more times.

Dec Rnd 1: *K3 K2tog, K3, P2, 1/1LC, 1/1RC, P2; repeat from * end of round. 105sts Dec Rnd 3: K6, CDD, *K12, CDD; repeat from * to last 6 sts, K6. 91 sts

Rows 7 & 9: Same as Row 1.

Work these 10 rows 11 more times.

Cast off in pattern, but do not cut yarn.

With the tail, sew the band together to form a circle.

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Are they hand warmers or mittens … you decide Now I’m knitting a pair of hand warmers with Tawny Port that are a little on the unconventional side.

I like to wear hand warmers in the winter as it frees up my fingers when working my phone, or fishing change out of my wallet or pocket; but, sometimes my fingers get cold and I try to draw them up inside. Walking with hands in my pockets is not safe as a stumble could result in a bad fall. My solution is to make them extra long so that I can fold them back to expose my fingers, and unfold them to keep me warm.

The pattern motifs I’ll be using include the 1/1RC that was used on the hat, but also patterns D & E from the poncho, which are essentially the same pattern, but one leans left and the other right.

Perfect -- I’ll use one on the left hand and the other on the right.

The other technique used in this pattern is M1L (Make 1 Left) and M1R (Make 1 Right) which is an increase method. Whenever you see explanations for this technique it instructs you to pick up the bar between the stitches from the row below from either the front (M1L) or back (M1R).

If you look at the stitches on your needle, the right leg of the stitch is on the front and the left leg is at the back. Normally, you knit into the front stitch unless instructed to ktbl (knit 24

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through back loop) which twists the stitch and makes it lean left.

When knitting a M1R or L, you’re knitting into the left leg of the stitch. When you pick up the bar and put it on the left needle you want to orientate the left leg of the stitch to either the front of your needle (M1R) or the back of you needle (M1L) and knit into it. By having the left leg on the front of your needle and knitting it, it makes the resulting stitch lean right and when at the back of needle, you’re actually doing a ktbl resulting in a left leaning stitch. Also, whenever you see M1 (make 1), it’s the same as M1L. On several occasions, I’ve heard many a knitter trying to recall how to do a M1L vs. M1R. I find it easier to remember Right Front, Left Back.

notions

materials

M1L = Make 1 Left – see explanation above

The Pattern yarn

• (1) 3oz [85g] ball of Wool Ease in Tawny Port needles and hook

• US7 [4.5mm] crochet hook or close in size

• US7 [4.5mm] 16” circulars, or 32” circulars for magic loop, or dpns knitting needles • US6 [4.0mm] 24” circulars for magic loop, or dpns • cable needle

• stitch marker

• scrap yarn to hold thumb sts • tapestry needle

size Fits average woman’s hand in width, custom fit in length.

gauge 20 sts and 26 rows = 4” in stocking stitch on US 7 [4.5mm] needles abbreviations K = Knit

P = Purl

K2tog = Knit 2 sts together St(s) = Stitch(es)

PM = Place Marker

BOR = Beginning of Round Rnd = Round

Inc = Increase

M1 = Same as M1L – increase 1 st

M1R = Make 1 Right – see explanation above

YO = Yarn Over – bring yarn to the front of your work and knit the next stitch

YRN = Yarn Round Needle – bring yarn to the front of your work under the needle, take it to the back over the needle, then bring it to the front and purl the next stitch.

1/1LC (1 over 1 left cross) Slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in front of work, k1, then k1 from cable needle.

1/1RC (1 over 1 right cross) Slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in back of work, k1, then k1 from cable needle.

2/2LC (2 over 2 left cross) Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

2/2RC (2 over 2 right cross) Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

2/1LC (2 over 1 left cross) Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front of work, k1, then k2 from cable needle.

2/1RC (2 over 1 right cross) Slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in back of work, k2, then k1 from cable needle.

Pattern for Hand Warmer Mittens

Pattern over 12 sts (Same as Patterns D and E of Poncho) Row 1: P4, 2/2RC, p4 – Right Hand.

Row 1: P4, 2/2LC, p4 – Left Hand.

Row 2: P4, k4, p4.

Row 3: P3, 2/1RC, 2/1LC, p3.

Row 4: P3, k6, p3.

Row 5: P2, 2/1RC, k2, 2/1LC, p2.

Row 6: P2, k8, p2.

Row 7: P1, 2/1RC, k4, 2/1LC, p1.

Row 8: P1, k10, p1.

Cuff

Using the Crochet Cast on method, cast on 36 sts. Place marker (PM) to denote Beginning of Round (BOR). Be sure to slip the marker on each round. Join in the round being careful not to twist the stitches.

Rnd 1: *K2, p1; repeat from * to end of round.

Rnd 2: *K2, p1, 1/1RC, p1; repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until cuff measures 3” (18 rows), or desired length.

Knit 1 round and proceed to instructions for Right and Left Hands.

Right Hand

Inc Rnd: K17, M1, k2, M1, knit to end of round. 38 sts

Set up Rnd: K3, p4, k4, p4, k23.

Rnd 1: K3, p4, 2/2RC, p4, k3, M1L, k2, M1R, k18. 40 sts

Rnd 2 and all even rounds: Work sts as presented; i.e.

Knit the knits and Purl the purls.

Rnd 3: K3, (Pattern 3), k3, M1L, k4, M1R, k18. 42 sts Rnd 5: K3, (Pattern 5), k3, M1L, k6, M1R, k18. 44 sts Rnd 7: K3, (Pattern 7), k3, M1L, k8, M1R, k18. 46 sts Rnd 9: K3, (Pattern 1), k3, M1L, k10, M1R, k18. 48 sts

Rnd 11: K3 (Pattern 3), k3, M1L, k12, M1R, k18. 50 sts

Rnd 13: K3, (Pattern 5), k3, M1L, k14, M1R, k18. 52 sts

Rnd 15: K3, (Pattern 7), k3, place next 16 sts on a scrap piece of yarn, K18.

Rnd 17: Continue working rounds on remaining 36 sts incorporating pattern rows 1 – 8 twice more.

Once all pattern rows have been completed, continue to work as follows until mitten length is equal to the topmost knuckle: K3, P1, K10, P1, K21. For my small hand, this worked out to be 2 rows.

Begin 2x2 rib (beginning with K2) until work measures to the tip of the topmost fingernail – my hand was 12 rows.

Final Row: *YO, K2tog, YRN, P2tog; repeat from * to end of round.

Cast off in 2x2 rib.

Left Hand

Inc Rnd: K1, M1, knit to last st, M1, k1. 38 sts

Set up Rnd: K23, p4, k4, p4, k3.

Rnd 1: K18, M1L, k2, M1R, k3, p4, 2/2LC, p4, k3. 40 sts Rnd 2 and all even rounds: Work sts as presented; i.e.

Knit the knits and Purl the purls.

Rnd 3: K18, M1L, k4, M1R, k3, (Pattern 3), k3. 42 sts Rnd 5: K18, M1L, k6, M1R, k3, (Pattern 5), k3. 44 sts Rnd 7: K18, M1L, k8, M1R, k3, (Pattern 7), k3. 46 sts

Rnd 9: K18, M1L, k10, M1R, k3, (Pattern 1), k3. 48 sts

Rnd 11: K18, M1L, k12, M1R, k3, (Pattern 3) k3. 50 sts

Rnd 13: K18, M1L, k14, M1R, k3, (Pattern 5), k3. 52 sts

Rnd 15: K18, Place next 16sts on a scrap piece of yarn, k3, (Pattern 7), k3.

Rnd 17: Continue working rounds on remaining 36 sts incorporating pattern rows 1 – 8 twice more.

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Once all pattern rows have been completed, continue to work as follows until mitten length is equal to the topmost knuckle: K21, p1, k10, p1, k3.

Begin 2x2 rib (beginning with p2) until work measures to the tip of the topmost fingernail – my hand was 12 rows.

Final Row: *YRN, p2tog, yo, k2tog; repeat from * to end of round.

Cast off in 2x2 rib.

Thumb

Remove scrap yarn from thumb sts and place on needles.

Join the yarn to the thumb stitches by making a stitch from in between the two stitches below on the hand.

Join yarn by making a st between the two center sts of the hand and place it on the right needle.

Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog – this closes the gap between the hand and thumb sts.

Continue to knit rounds until thumb measures to the middle of the knuckle on your thumb.

Switch to US 6 [4.0mm] needles and knit two more rounds or to the bottom of your thumbnail.

Work in K1, P1 Rib until thumb measures to the top of your thumb nail.

Cast off in 1x1 rib and fold rib section down.

The hand warmers in Tawny Port are complete.

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Weave in all ends.

Draw String Cord (make 2)

Cut a length of yarn approximately 40” and secure one end to a solid structure (e.g., Drawer Handle, Tap, etc.).

Twist the strand in the same direction as the natural twist of the yarn until it folds over onto itself in a fairly tight twist.

Double it up and tie the open end to secure the cord.

Weave it through the YO holes at the top of the mitten, fold back and make a bow.

My hand warmers are complete.

I love the pattern motif on the back of the hands – left cross on the left hand and right cross on the right. I’m also very happy with the ribbing on the cuff. It’s not only pretty but it holds its shape very well – it doesn’t over stretch. If my fingers and thumb get cold, I can easily unfold the top ribbing sections to cover them up and use the draw string to close them like mittens. To answer the question are they hand warmers or mittens … they’re both!

Knitting the Galway Poncho with confidence It’s time for the Galway Poncho! I fell in love with this pattern the moment I saw it. What intrigues me is all the pattern motifs used together in harmony and the oversized rib collar is gorgeous. When I showed it to other knitters, some of them responded by saying it was beautiful but felt they couldn’t make. That was my inspiration for this week’s posts. There is only one way to gain experience in knitting – by trying new things.

Let’s get started.

The first tip is to have lots of different colored stitch markers on hand.

You can never have too many stitch markers. They tend to disappear on a regular basis, or in my household, it’s a race against the kitties to find them.

They always seem to win, hence you need lots.

Let's focus on how to break down a seemingly complicated pattern into smaller manageable chunks, thus turning intimidation into accomplishment.

The Galway Poncho is a free downloadable pattern designed for Lion Brand Fisherman’s Wool. The specifications for Fisherman’s Wool is 16 sts x 22 R on a US 9 [5.5mm] needle, but I’m using Wool-Ease which is rated at 18 sts x 24 R on a US 8 [5.0mm] needle. The pattern gauge is significantly different but through the on Day 2, I was confident that Wool-Ease was a good substitution. If you’ve followed any of my previous posts, I tend to always personalize a stock pattern, but not in this case. I love it just the way it is. The only change I’m making is the yarn and color – I never make a pattern in the color depicted.

The Galway Poncho made with Wool-Ease in Oxford Grey is complete.

If you look closely at the picture above, you can see one of my green markers that the kitties got to first. They chewed through it making it a removable marker instead of a fixed marker. If you don’t have a collection of different colored markers then you can use what you have and tie on a little piece of yarn or thread to distinguish it from the other colors.

Just make sure it’s visible to you as

You can never have too many stitch markers.

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you progress across the row.

This is how I used my markers: Green – Pattern A

Purple – Pattern B

Blue – Pattern C & F

Pink – Pattern D & E White – Decreases

Green = A, Purple = B, Blue = C & F, Pink = D & E, White (not shown) = Decrease

You may be wondering why I used Blue for both C & F, and pink for both D & E. Did I run out of colors? On the contrary …. C & F are the same pattern motifs as are D & E. The difference is that C & D are right leaning patterns and E & F are left leaning patterns. C & D are used on right of center and E & F are used on the left side of center . . . straight forward and simple to remember. As you progress, the pattern asks for a different colored stitch marker to denote where the decreases will occur. That’s where I used the white markers.

It’s Confessions of a Knitter time …

I frequently use stitch markers to denote a change in the knitting, but not usually so diligent about color coding it like I did here. I must confess, it made it so much easier to knit. (Is that a choir I hear singing ah-h-h-h-h-h?) Sometimes it pays to follow your own advice.

The next thing that the pattern recommends about experience is the ability to read your knitting. This is fairly challenging as I don’t know of any classes or YouTube videos that teach how to read your knitting. In the Knit Night for our guild, we did a segment on this topic and it was a challenge. As instructors, we all knew how to read our knitting from experience, but how to teach others was a new playing field. So we had participants do different types of stitches like left leaning vs. right, but it all boiled down to one thing … observation.

Pattern B (L), Pattern A (C), Pattern C (R)

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When you first get started with a pattern, it takes several rows to see the pattern emerge. But once it starts to reveal itself, you can see what’s happening and can anticipate the next set of stitches. If you look at the picture above, pattern B is on the left, A in the center, and C on the right.

Pattern B – 1st row leans the stitches out, 2nd row purls back, 3rd row leans the stitches in, 4th row purls back. By noticing how the stitches are flowing out and in a zigzag pattern makes it clear on what to do on the next row.

Pattern A – Note how every 5th twisted stitch is marked making it easy to determine when the next 4/4RC of Pattern C should be knit.

Pattern C – This pattern is worked on the right side of center, therefore, the 4/4 cross should always flow right.

This is what it means by “reading your knitting”. The number 1 rule in learning to read your knitting is Stop and admire your handiwork!

Admiring your handiwork not only helps to anticipate the next stitch, but it also helps to identify the occasional boo-boo. We all make mistakes when we knit – we get distracted by other things and zig when we should’ve zagged.

The sooner you catch it, the easier it is to correct. Confessions time again – the pattern that caused me the most grief was Pattern A, the easiest one. In the section where there are multiple occurrences of the Knot Stitch, I would count to 8 before I realized I should’ve stopped at 3. Back I went 5 stitches, fixed the problem and carried on. See, we all make mistakes.

I sincerely hope that these tips were helpful in converting intimidation into confidence. Just remember these key points: 1. Stop and admire your handiwork.

2. Use color coded stitch markers to delineate the different pattern motifs.

3. Right leaning patterns on the right of center and left leaning patterns on the left of center.

4. Use a removable stitch marker to tag the row of a cable cross.

5. Stop and admire your handiwork.

Now for the grand finale!

My ensemble is complete … all made with Lion Brand WoolEase in Oxford Grey and Tawny Port. I’m really looking forward to wearing the hat and hand warmers, but likely giving the poncho to one of my nieces. I’m actually still undecided about that after putting it on and wearing on a chilly October evening … it was so nice and warm. Maybe I’ll have to make another.

Cindy O'Malley

cindooknits.blogspot.com

You’re allowed to take pride in your handiwork. It’s not a cardinal sin when it comes to knitting, so makes sure you frequently stop and admire your handiwork. This will really help you during the decrease sections as well.

The poncho is now complete.

I was a little concerned at the beginning that Oxford Grey might be a bit dark for the patterns to emerge, but not the case. The pattern detail comes shining through which is what I loved about knitting it in the first place. It was a joy to knit.

The Galway Poncho, Hat, and Hand Warmers mittens all made with Lion Brand Wool-Ease.

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Smooth and speedy knitting with Hue + Me Where is the time going? It’s been 5 months since I took my first look at Lion Brand Hue + Me yarn! Back then, I only dedicated one post to it - this time, it’s a whole series of five which will include information about several stitching techniques. In this post, though, we take another look at the yarn itself.

Hue + Me is a designer yarn that is color-curated for people who have difficulty matching colors.

Every color of this yarn was designed to complement every other color in the Hue + Me line.

So, if choosing colors isn’t your strong suit, this is the yarn for you!

Hue + Me is an 80% acrylic, 20% wool yarn that comes in 4.4oz [125g] balls. It is a 4-ply bulky weight, with a gauge of 14 sts over 4" [10cm] on size 10.5 [6.5mm] needles. Worked on size 10 [6mm] needles, you can probably achieve, or at least approximately achieve, a chunky tension of 16 sts to 4" [10cm].

The 4-ply construction makes a robust yarn, and the angle of twist makes a lovely, smooth yarn which offers great stitch definition.

Cynthia MacDougall

With Hue + Me, all colors complement one another. Here, (l-r) rosewater goes with haze, goes with agave.

This photo shows what the trio looks like when you follow the instructions.

The strong angle on the twist of this 4-ply yarn gives great stitch definition, and the frayed end shows the softness in each ply.

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I, however, can be a bit of a rebel when it comes to knitting, so my second and third hats turned out a little differently. It’s one of the pitfalls of being a designer; the desire to experiment tends to take over from time to time.

This Trio Toboggan pattern is like a popular brand of 3-sided snacks - bet you can’t make just one! I couldn’t! The whole concept of breaking up the elements of the pattern and switching them out to get more mileage out of the yarn is brilliant in my mind, and is just one of the options for working with Hue + Me yarn.

I followed the pattern for this hat, except I didn’t have the right size needles. So, I knew this hat was going to be smaller. It barely covered my ears, but it fits a friend of mine just fine.

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The theme of the post back in June was all about free hat patterns. I found the most delightful pattern written specifically for Hue + Me: the Trio Toboggan. Just one ball each of 3 colors makes 3 hats, just by changing up the colors for each one. When I found it, I thought this would be great for making ‘friendship hats’ for your best buds or your kids’ best buds!

Throughout this series, I’ll be looking at some basic stitch patterns, shawl collars, making a pocket with double knitting, and finishing the top of pockets, all with Lion Brand Hue + Me.

Seed Stitch and Moss Stitch and Hue + Me yarn In this post, we’re going back to the basics with three knit-andpurl stitches: seed stitch, moss stitch, and k1, p1 ribbing. Seed and moss stitches are basic stitches that are often confused, and, while they all use k1, p1, they aren’t actually ribbing, because the bumps of the purl stitches raise above the surface, while in ribbing, the ‘purl bumps’ recede.

Also, ribbing tends to draw in horizontally, while these stitches tend to spread out horizontally.

If I had a nickel for every knitting sample I made since I started Canadian Guild of Knitters in 2002, I could probably buy a very expensive set of interchangeable knitting needles! And, I’m doing 4 more for today’s post! For all that, I’m still a fan of sampling, and encourage all knitters to do it. If you aim to make all your samples the same dimensions, over time you can create enough squares to make a blanket or a coat of many colors!

Every color of Hue + Me is designed to go with every other color in the line. These 3 colors sure work that way! Front: agave, middle: haze, and back: rosewater.

All of these stitches can be worked back and forth, or in the round and they can be worked on an odd or even number of stitches.

All 3 of these samples were made using 21 sts and 17 rows and various arrangements of k1 p1.

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SEED STITCH - WORKED FLAT Worked over an odd number of stitches:

Row 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Rep Row 1.

Worked over an even number of stitches:

Row 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to end of row.

Row 2: *P1, k1; rep from * to end of row.

Rep Rows 1 and 2.

SEED STITCH - IN THE ROUND Worked over an odd number of stitches:

Rnd 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Rnd 2: *P1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.

Rep Rnds 1 and 2.

*Worked over an even number of stitches|: Rnd 1: *K1, p1; rep from * around.

Rnd 2: *P1, k1; rep from * around.

Rep Rnds 1 and 2.

MOSS STITCH

The Moss Stitch is worked just like the seed stitch or ribbing, except that the k and p stitches are stacked and switched out every 2 rows. This gives a lovely fabric that is attractive.

Worked over an odd number of stitches:

Row 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 2: *P1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.

Row 3: *P1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1. (as Row 2)

Row 4: *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1. (as Row 1) Rep Rows 1 - 4.

Worked over an even number of stitches:

Row 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to end of row.

Row 2: *K1, p1; rep from * to end of row. (as Row 1) Row 3: *P1, k1; rep from * to end of row.

Row 4: *P1, k1; rep from * to end of row. (as Row 3) Rep Rows 1 - 4.

Worked in the round, the Moss Stitch goes like this:

Worked over an odd number of stitches:

Rnd 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Rnd 2: Rep Rnd 1

Rnd 3: *P1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.

Rnd 4: Rep Rnd 3.

Rep Rnds 1 - 4.

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Worked over an even number of stitches: Rnd 1 and 2: *K1, p1; rep from * around.

Rnd 3 and 4: *P1, k1; rep from * around.

Rep Rnds 1 - 4.

Now I’ve just done something here that you may not have noticed: I’ve written the instructions for the 4 sections of Moss Stitch in 3 different ways.

All of them have a 4-row pattern, and all of them use a k1, p1, but the way I’ve written them shows different ways a designer can write down instructions. The first two are written for an absolute beginning knitter: every row is spelled out in complete detail, and they even show that some of the rows are repeats of rows before.

The third pattern substitutes the ‘spelled out’ instruction and points the knitter back to the other rounds that are the same.

A knitter using a sticky note to mark their place can still stop anywhere, place their note, and conveniently pick up from where they left off.

The fourth pattern conveys the same information, but in three lines instead of 5. An absolute beginner could follow it. However, it might be easy for them to lose track of where they are. For that reason, this pattern is aimed more at an intermediate knitter.

Usually, when creating knitting patterns, especially ones that will be published in books or magazines, column space is at a premium, so the fourth way of giving the instructions would be the preferred format by editors.

How to knit tidy edges In this post, I show you how to make neat edges on the sides of your scarf, or any project where you want a tidy edge: a blanket, button bands, or tunic vent.

There are times when you might want the seams inside a garment to be neatly done, perhaps to make a jacket reversible.

This is not a difficult technique.

The challenge is simply remembering to do it consistently.

Selvages (selvedges, if you are British), are defined as the margin on the sides of woven cloth, where the weft (weaving) threads weave in tightly on the sides of the loom. In knitting, the knitter creates these edges as they make the fabric, usually by working them consistently on the first and last one (or two) stitches on each side of the work.

Selvages have several useful purposes, and are often overlooked. Sometimes, they dress up an edge to give it an attractive appearance.

There is an entire chapter (4) dedicated to selvages in the book, The Principles of Knitting, truly a knitter’s text book. If you’re not as avid a knitter as I am, you can look up this massive resource at your local library. I heartily recommend having a look at this chapter!

Below are the instructions I used for a tidy, chain edge on the sides of the scarf that is the project for this series of posts.

Generally speaking, if you plan to use selvages on your garment, add the stitches for them onto the number of stitches for your garment. For example, if your pattern has 110 stitches for the body panel and you want a 2-stitch selvage on each side, make sure there are 114 stitches on the panel.

To make the selvage in the photo, slip the first stitch of every row as if to purl it, keeping the yarn at the front of the work, then move the yarn wherever you need to work the next stitch.

Caveat: This works really well on the seed stitch borders, but when worked on stockinette stitch, one side may be looser than the other. This is another reason I advocate knitting samples.

For the scarf project, I have intentionally worked the collar increases at the edges of the scarf. They look like this:

I used to know a knitter who worked her selvage at the end of the row, but I find it easier to remember them at the beginning of each row.

A two-stitch selvage makes a decorative but functional design element to a garment, often adding structure at the edges of a garment. For example, a garter stitch selvage is shorter than the adjacent stockinette stitch fabric. This adds sturdiness to a side seam or sleeve seam particularly useful when working with cotton or rayon yarns.

Even though the increases are right at the edge, the scarf still has an attractive edge.

If I weren’t doing a seed stitch border, I could move the increases a stitch or two away from the edge and maintain the smooth chain in the previous photo.

A selvage creates a neat chain of stitches on the exposed edge of this scarf, but it can do the same for button bands, or a blanket.

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Double-knitted pockets add functionality to a knit scarf So far, the border (seed stitch) and selvage (chain) have been decided. It’s time to finish the planning.

I designed this piece with a knitted-in pocket using a fairly advanced knitting technique known as double-knitting, where the knitter makes two layers of fabric at the same time. These days, we can always use another place to stash a mask, and this scarf gives us two.

From top to bottom: agave, rosewater, and haze shades of Hue + Me.

Note: The term double knitting has several applications in knitting: 1.

A yarn that has a knitting tension of 24 sts to 4” [10cm] on 4mm needles; 2. A term for knitting color stranded work used in some areas, notably the Eastern seaboard; 3. When hyphenated, a reference to two layers of knitting made simultaneously.

Let’s look at the schematic:

The base length of the scarf is the wingspan of the wearer - the measurement from fingertip to fingertip with arms outstretched.

There is no point in making this scarf any longer, otherwise the wearer can’t reach the bottom of the pockets. The bottom and top borders and the depth to the bottom of the pocket is 3½” [9cm], so the finished length is wingspan + (3½ x 2), or wingspan + 7” [18cm]. Generally speaking, one’s wingspan is the same length as one’s height.

The schematic shows the pocket placement and a measurement called wingspan.

The scarf widens out above the pocket on both sides to form a collar that rolls back to keep out drafts.

There are several ways to cast on to make a double-knitting piece but as this pocket starts above the cast on, it’s actually very easy to create the bottom of the pocket: kfb (knit front and back) for every stitch.

I designed the pocket in a different color so a beginning knitter can see the stitches. An advanced knitter may choose to do everything in one color.

The first row of the pocket has kfb in each of the pocket’s 21 sts. The peach CC makes a patch of color on the back.

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Hue + Me Pocket Scarf Any size

finished measurements Wingspan + 7” [18cm] materials yarn

• Lion Brand Hue + Me, 125g skeins

• 5 balls main color (MC) (more if the wearer is taller than 5’4”) • 1 ball contrasting color (CC) needles

• US 10.5 [6.5mm]

• US 10 [6mm] needles

or size needed to obtain gauge gauge

12 sts to 4” [10cm] using larger needles abbreviations

Sl 1 - slip stitch purlwise with yarn in front Inc in first/ last st: k into the front and back of the st SCARF

With MC and larger needles, cast on 39 sts.

Row 1: Sl 1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end.

Rows 2 - 7: Rep Row 1.

Row 8: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, k to last 5 sts, (k1, p1) twice, k1.

Row 9: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, p to last 5sts, (k1, p1) twice, k1.

Rows 10 - 15: Rep Rows 8 and 9 3 times.

Row 16: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, k4, work kfb in next 21 sts, k5, (p1, k1) twice. 60 sts

Row 17: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, p4, join CC at front, (ytb, k1CC, ytf, p1MC) 21 times, twist

yarns and with MC, p4, (k1, p1) twice, k1. (39 MC sts, 21 CC sts)

Row 18: Sl1, (p1, k1) twice, k4, twist yarns at back of work, (k1MC, ytf, p1CC, ytb) 21 times, twist yarns, with MC, k5, (p1, k1) twice.

Row 19: Sl1, (p1, k1) twice, p4, twist yarns, (ytb, k1CC, ytf, p1MC) 21 times, twist yarn, with MC, p4, (k1, p1) twice, k1.

Rep Rows 18 and 19 until pocket measures 6” [15cm]. End with RS facing for next row.

Separate Pocket

Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, k4, bring CC to front and continue with MC: (put next k st on holder, p1) 21 times, k5 (p1, k1) twice (39 sts).

This opens the pocket. As long as the yarns were only twisted at the sides of the pocket, the entire cavity should open up. Wind off 12 yards [11m] of CC for the pocket top, and leave the yarn in the pocket.

Continue with MC.

Row 1 (WS): Sl 1, (k1, p1) twice, p to last 5 sts, (k1, p1) twice, k1.

Row 2: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, k to last 4 sts, (p1, k1) twice.

Rows 3 - 7: Rep Rows 1 and 2.

Shape Collar

Row 8: Inc in first st, (p1, k1) twice, k30, p1, k1, p1, inc in last st.

41 sts Row 9: Sl 1, (k1, p1) twice, k1, p29, (k1, p1) twice, k2.

Row 10: Sl 1, (k1, p1) twice, k31 (p1, k1) twice, k1.

Rows 11 - 14: Rep Rows 9 and 10.

Row 15: Rep Row 9.

Row 16: Inc in first st, (k1, p1) twice, k31, (p1, k1) twice, inc in last st. 43 sts Row 17: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 3 times, p29, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1.

Row 18: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 3 times, k30, (p1, k1) 3 times.

Rows 19 - 22: Rep Rows 17 and 18.

Row 23: Rep Row 17.

Intermediate and Advanced knitters: continue in this manner, keeping continuity of border pattern and inc at the beg and end of every 8th row until the borders each have 15 sts. Pick up again at the instruction “Go to Row 81.”

The following instructions give detail for beginning knitters:

Row 24: Inc in first st, (p1, k1) 3 times, k30, (p1, k1) twice, p1, inc in last st. 45 sts

Row 25: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 4 times, p28, (k1, p1) 3 times, k2.

Row 26: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 3 times, k31, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1.

Rows 27 - 30: Rep Rows 25 and 26.

Row 31: Rep Row 25.

Row 32: Inc in first st, (k1, p1) 3 times, k31, (p1, k1) 3 times, inc in last st. 47 sts

Row 33: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 4 times, p29, (k1, p1) 4 times, k1.

Row 34: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 4 times, k30, (p1, k1) 4 times.

Rows 35 - 38: Rep Rows 33 and 34.

Row 39: Rep Row 33.

Row 40: Inc in first st, (p1, k1) 4 times, k31, (p1, k1) 3 times, p1, inc in last st. 49 sts

Row 41: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 5 times, p28, (k1, p1) 4 times, k2.

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Row 66: Sl 1 (p1, k1) 6 Row 42: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 4 times, k30, (p1, k1) times, k31, (p1, k1) 6 times.

4 times, k1.

Rows 43 - 46: Rep Rows Rows 67 - 70: Rep Rows 65 and 66.

41 and 42.

Row 47: Rep Row 41.

Row 71: Rep Row 65.

Row 49: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 5 times, p29, (k1, p1) 5 times, k1.

Row 73: Sl 1 (k1, p1) 7 times, p 38, (k1, p1) 6 times, k2.

Row 48: Inc in first st, (k1, p1) 4 times, k31, (p1, k1) 4 times, inc in last st. 51 sts

Row 72: Inc. in 1st st, (p1, k1) 6 times, k30, (p1, k1) 5 times, p1, inc in last st. 57 sts

Row 74: Sl 1 (k1, p1) 6 Row 50: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 5 times, k31, (p1, k1) times, k30, (p1, k1) 6 times, k1.

5 times.

Rows 51 - 54: Rep Rows 49 and 50.

Row 55: Rep Row 49.

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Row 56: Inc in first st, (k1, p1) 4 times, k31, (p1, k1) 4 times, k1, inc in last st. 53 sts

Rows 75 - 78: Rep Rows 73 and 74.

Row 79: Rep Row 73.

Row 80: Inc in 1st st, (k1, p1) 6 times, k31, (p1, k1) 6 times, inc in last st. 59 sts

Row 81: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 7 Row 57: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 5 times, p29, (k1, times, k1, p29, (k1, p1) 7 times, k1. p1) 5 times, k2.

Row 82: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 7 Row 58: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 5 times, k30, (p1, k1) times, k31, (p1, k1) 7 times.

5 times, k1.

Rows 59 - 62: Rep Rows 57 and 58.

Row 63: Rep Row 57.

Row 64: Inc in first st, (k1, p1) 5 times, k31, (p1, k1) 5 times, inc in last st. 55 sts Row 65: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 6 times, p29, (k1, p1) 6 times, k1.

Rep Rows 81 and 82 until length from bottom of pocket measures one-half of the wingspan. Place a marker and work the same number of repeats of Rows 81 and 82 to complete the back of the collar.

End with RS facing for next row.

A double-knitted pocket scarf with Hue + Me part 2 The following instructions again provide detailed information for beginning knitters. Intermediate and advanced knitters can skip to (39 sts) once they’ve established the decrease routine.

Let’s knit on.

Decrease collar

Row 1: K2tog, (k1, p1) 6 times, k31, (p1, k1) 6 times, ssk. 57 sts Row 2: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 7 times, p28, (k1, p1) 6 times, k2

Row 19: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 5 times, k31, (p1, k1) 5 times, k1.

Rows 20 -23: Rep Rows 18 and 19.

Row 24: Rep Row 18.

Row 25: K2tog, (p1, k1) 5 times, k30, (p1, k1) 4 times, p1, ssk. 51 sts

Row 26: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 5 times, p29, (k1, p1) 5 times, k1.

Row 27: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 5 times, k30, (p1, k1) 5 times.

Rows 28 - 31: Rep Rows 26 and 27.

Row 3: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 6 times, k31, (p1, k1) 6 times, k1

Row 32: Rep Row 26.

Row 8: Rep Row 3.

Row 34: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 5 times, p28, (k1, p1) 4 times, k2.

Rows 4 - 7: Rep Rows 2 and 3.

Row 33: K2tog, (k1, p1) 4 times, k31, (p1, k1) 4 times, ssk. 49 sts

Row 9: K2tog, (p1, k1) 6 times, k30, (p1, k1) 5 times, p1, ssk.

55 sts

Row 35: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 4 times, k31, (p1, k1) 4 times, k1.

Row 10: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 6 times, p29, (k1, p1) 6 times, k1 Row 11: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 6 times, k30, (p1, k1) 6 times

Rows 12 - 15: Rep Rows 10 and 11.

Row 16: Rep Row 10.

Intermediate and advanced knitters: Continue decreasing in this manner until there are 39 sts on needle. Go to end of Row 73, (39 sts) below.

Row 17: K2tog, (k1, p1) 5 times, k31, (p1, 1) 5 times, k1, ssk.

53 sts

Row 18: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 6 times, p28, (k1, p1) 5 times, k2.

Rows 36 - 39: Rep Rows 34 and 35.

Row 40: Rep Row 34.

The reflection shows the coat sleeve in the pocket and the wrap-around effect of the shawl collar.

Row 41: K2tog, (p1, k1) 4 times, k30, (p1, k1) 3 times, p1, ssk.

47 sts Row 42: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 4 times, p29, (k1, p1) 4 times, k1.

Row 43: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 4 times, k30, (p1, k1) 4 times.

Rows 44 - 47: Rep Rows 42 and 43.

Row 48: Rep Row 42.

Row 49: K2tog, (k1, p1) 3 times, k31, (p1, k1) 3 times, ssk.

45 sts

Row 50: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 4 times, p28, (k1, p1) 3 times, k2.

The second pocket opens up as the knitting progresses. As this is viewed, the placket (in CC, top) was knitted top down, and the pocket forms as the knitting continues.

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Row 51: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 3 times, k31, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1.

Rows 52 - 55: Rep Rows 50 and 51.

Row 56: Rep Row 50.

Row 57: K2tog, (p1, k1) 3 times, k30, (p1, k1) twice, p1, ssk. 43 sts Row 58: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 3 times, p29, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1.

Row 59: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 3 times, k30, (p1, k1) 3 times.

Rows 60 - 63: Rep Rows 58 and 59.

Row 64: Rep Row 58.

Row 65: K2tog, (k1, p1) twice, k31, (p1, k1) twice, ssk. 41 sts

Row 66: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 3 times, p28, (k1, p1) twice, k2.

Row 67: Sl 1, (k1, p1) twice, k31, (p1, k1) twice, k1.

Rows 68 - 71: Rep Rows 66 and 67.

Row 72: Rep Row 66.

Row 73: K2tog, (p1, k1) twice, k30, p1, k1, p1, ssk. 39 sts

Row 74: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, p29, (k1, p1) twice, k1.

Row 75: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, k30, (p1, k1) twice.

Repeat Rows 74 and 75 two more times (WS facing for next row).

Make second pocket.

Placket

With CC and smaller needles, cast on 19 sts.

Work (k1, p1) to last st, k1, for 7 rows.

Inc row: K2, m1, k15, m1, k2. 21 sts Break yarn.

Attach Placket

With WS of scarf facing, and MC, sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, p4, p1MC, join CC, ytf, k1CC, (ytf, p1MC, ytb, k1CC) 20 times, twist yarn, with MC, p4, (k1, p1) twice, k1.

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KNITmuch | issue 15

Row 1: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, k4, twist yarns at back of work, (k1MC, ytf, p1CC, ytb) 21 times, twist yarns, with MC, k5, (p1, k1) twice.

Row 2: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, p4, twist yarns, (ytb, k1CC, ytf, p1MC) 21 times, twist yarn, with MC, p4, (k1, p1) twice, k1.

Rep Rows 1 and 2 until pocket measures 6” [15cm]. End with WS facing for next row. Break CC. Close Pocket

Row 1: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, p4, (k1, p1) 21 times, p4, (k1, p1) ¹⁄ way (fold) twice, k1

This peach scarf was my second attempt. I started it with different colors, but after knitting the first pocket I learned I didn’t have enough of one of the colors to complete the scarf. So, that piece of knitting is going to be an arm protector/pocket for the side of my knitting chair. It’s a great spot to put a phone and even the remote!

Here’s that schematic I promised! (click to download) The schematic shows the pocket placement and a measurement called wingspan. way(fold) (fold) ¹⁄ ¹⁄way

Row 2: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, p4, (ssk) 21 times, k5, (p1, k1) twice (39 sts)

Row 3: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, p to last 5 sts, (k1, p1) twice, k1 Row 4: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, k to last 4 sts, (p1, k1) twice

Rep Rows 3 and 4 twice more.

Bottom Border

17¹⁄ ” [45cm]

¹⁄ wingspan

¹⁄ ¹⁄w 17¹⁄ 17¹⁄” [45cm] ” [45cm]

Row 1: Sl 1, (p1, k1) to end of row.

Rep Row 1 6 times. Cast off in pattern.

7” [18cm]

7”7”[18cm] [18cm]

Placket for First Pocket

” [9cm] Sl sts from holder onto 3¹⁄ smaller needle (CC yarn should be near the tip of the needle.)

With CC, k2, ssk, k13, k2tog, k2 (19 sts) Work (k1, p1) to last st, k1 for 7 rows (RS facing for next row)

Cast off all sts. With CC, stitch the sides of the trim to the body of the scarf.

Weave in all ends, and block lightly if desired.

3¹⁄3¹⁄” [9cm] ” [9cm]

There are many other applications for Hue + Me yarn. This yarn has great insulative qualities perfect for warm, speed-knit baby blankets, jacket-weight sweaters, and accessories. I’m glad I had the opportunity to try it.

Cynthia MacDougall cgknitters.ca

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KNITmuch | issue 15

39

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Standard abbreviations & terms

alt = alternate approx = approximately beg = begin(ning) BO= bind off CC = contrast color Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com ch = chain Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com cm = centimetre(s) cn = cable needle co = cast on cont = continue, continuing Yarn Weight dc = double crochet dec = decrease(s), decreasing Symbol & dpn = double-pointed needle(s) Category foll = following Names Yarn Weight g = gram(s) hdc = half double crochet Yarn WeightType of Symbol & Fingering, Sock, DK, Worsted, Chunky, inc = increase(s), increasing Sport, Bulky, Jumbo, Symbol & Yarns in Category 10 count Fingering, Light Afghan, Craft, in(s) = inch(es) Baby Roving Roving Category Category Names crochet thread Baby Worsted Aran Rug k = knit Names kf&b or kfb = knit into front and back of st (increase) Type of Fingering, Sock, DK, Worsted, Chunky, Knit Gauge ktbl = knit Bulky, through the back loop Sport, Jumbo, Type of Range* inFingering, Sock, Worsted, Fingering, Chunky, Yarns in DK, 10 count LightJumbo,6 sts Afghan, Craft,k2tog = knit 2 sts tog (right-leaning decrease) Sport, Bulky, Roving Roving 23–26 Light 21–24 Afghan,16–20 12–15 Baby 7–11 Yarns in Stockinette10 count 33–40**Fingering, 27–32 crochet thread Baby Craft, Rugk3tog = knit 3 sts together (double right-leaning Baby Category Roving sts Worsted Rovingand Aran sts decrease) Category Stitch tocrochet thread sts Baby sts Worsted sts Aran sts Rug sts fewer m = marker Knit Gauge 4 inches m = meter(s) Knit Gauge Range* in 6 sts m1 = Make7–11 1 stitch: pick up the horizontal strand 33–40** 27–32 23–26 21–24 16–20 12–15 Range* in Recommended 6 sts Stockinette and front to back and knit it between 2 stitches from 12.75 mm sts 33–40** 27–32 23–26 21–24 16–20 12–15 7–11 sts sts sts sts sts sts 1.5–2.25 2.25–3.25 3.25–3.75 5.5–8 8–12.75 StockinetteNeedle in and and tbl (lifted increase) fewer to sts 3.75–4.5 sts 4.5–5.5 sts sts Stitch sts mm sts mm MC = main color mm sts mm mm mm Stitch to Metric Size fewerlarger 4mm inches mm = millimetre(s) 4 inches Range oz = ounce(s) Recommended p = purl 12.75 mm Recommended 17 Recommended Needle in 1.5–2.25 2.25–3.25 3.25–3.75 3.75–4.5 4.5–5.5 5.5–8p2tog = purl 8–12.75 2 sts tog (decrease) 12.75 mm and Needle U.S. 000 to 1 1 to 3 3 to 5 5 to 7 7 to 9 9 to 11 11 to 17 and Needle in 1.5–2.25 2.25–3.25 3.25–3.75Metric Size 3.75–4.5 mm4.5–5.5 mm 5.5–8 mm8–12.75 mm and mm mmpatt = pattern mm larger larger pfb = purl into front and back of stitch (increase) Metric SizeSize Range mm mm mm Range mm mm mm mm larger pm = place marker Range Crochet psso = pass slipped stitch over Recommended 17 Gauge*Ranges 32–42 6 sts RS = right side Recommended 21–32 16–20 12–17 11–141 to 3 8–11 3 to 5 7–9 5 to 7 17 Needle U.S. 000 to 1 7 to 9 9 to 11 11 to 17 and rem = remain(ing) in Single double and sts Range5 to 7 sts Needle U.S. 000 to 1 1 to 3 sts 3 to 5 Size 7 to 9 sts 9 to 11 sts 11 to 17sts and larger rep = repeat Crochet to crochets** fewer Size Range4 inch larger rev = reverse Crochet rnd = round sc = single crochet Crochet Gauge*Ranges 32–42 6 sts Steel*** 21–32 16–20 12–176 sts15 mm 11–14 8–11sl = slip 7–9 Recommended Gauge*Ranges 32–421.6–1.4 mm in Single double and 2.25–3.25 16–20 3.5–4.5 12–174.5–5.5 11–14 6.5–9 sts 7–9 9–15 sts 21–32 8–11 sts sts sts sts skp = slip one st, knit next st, pass slipped st over knit 5.5–6.5mm in Single Hook in Metric doubleRegular hook and and Crochet to crochets** fewer mm mm mm mm mm st (dec) sts sts sts sts sts sts larger Size Range Crochet to crochets**2.25 mm fewer 4 inch ssk = slip, slip, knit: slip 2 sts knitwise, 1 at a time, insert 4 inch left-hand needle into front of both sts and knit Steel*** them tog (left-leaning decrease) 15 mm Recommended sssk = slip next Steel*** Steel*** 1.6–1.4 mm 2.25–3.25 3.5–4.5 4.5–5.5 6.5–9 9–15three stitches individually, knitwise.

15 mmQ 5.5–6.5mm Recommended andfrom front to back into Insert tip of left needle Recommended 1.6–1.4 mm 6, 7, 82.25–3.25 3.5–4.5 Hook in Metric 4.5–5.5 Regular hook I–9 mm 6.5–9K–10 1⁄2 mm 9–15M-13 mm mm mm and and 5.5–6.5mmto Hook in Metric the fronts of these three largerstitches and knit them SizetoRange Hook U.S.Regular Size hookRegular mm B–1 to E–4 mm E–4 7 mm 7 to I–9 mm mm 2.25 mm to M-13 to Q together (double left-leaning decrease) largerlarger Size RangeRange K–10 1⁄2 2.25 mm hook st(s) = stitch(es) B–1 St st = stocking stitch Steel*** tbl = through back loop Steel*** Q Recommended 6, 7, 8 I–9 tog = together 1 * GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

K–10 ⁄2 M-13 tr = treble crochet Q Recommended 6, 7, 8 and Hook U.S. Size RegularI–9 B–1 to E–4 E–4 to 7 7 to I–9 to 1 K–10 lacy, ⁄2 openwork M-13patterns. Accordingly, a 1 to M-13 Q Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create WS = wrongtoside and Hook U.S. Size** Regular B–1 to E–4 E–4 to 7 Rangethe7 gauge to I–9 stated to larger hook K–10 ⁄2 gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow in your pattern. to M-13 to Q yo = yarn over 1 Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com

Standard Yarn Weight System

Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes Standard Yarn Weight System Standard Yarn Weight System

Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes

Range

hook

B–1K–10 ⁄2

larger

*** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse B–1 of regular hook sizing.

This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are above available at: YarnStandards.com * GUIDELINES ONLY: The reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories. * GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly usedweight gaugesyarns and needle or hook sizesorfor specific yarn categories. ** Lace are usually knitted crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a 11 much | issue 15 gaugeneedles range isand difficult toto determine.

Always followpatterns. the gauge stated in your ** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger hooks create lacy, openwork Accordingly, a pattern. gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern. *** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse

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KNIT