KNITmuch | Issue 18

KNITmuch

KNITTING with

LION BRAND YARN

Heartland

UNIVERSAL YARN

Deluxe Worsted Tweed

Uni Merino

Merino Mini

KNITTER'S PRIDE

Cubics

Lantern Moon Destiny

Needles

2-handed

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ART DIRECTOR

Carla A. Canonico Carla@KNITmuch.com

ADVERTISING SALES

John De Fusco John@KNITmuch.com

PUBLISHER

A Needle Pulling Thread

PHOTOGRAPHERS

John De Fusco, Carla A. Canonico, Contributors BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS

Cindy O'Malley cindooknits.blogspot.com

Fiona Stevenson www.fionaknits.com

Anne Caissie @3amknitter

Cynthia MacDougall ktogdesign@gmail.com

GRAPHIC DESIGN

Carla A. Canonico Carla@KNITmuch.com

Sondra Armas Sondra@KNITmuch.com

SOCIAL MEDIA and WEB

Maria Corina Guillen

Joaquin Rojas

WEBSITE / BLOG : KNITmuch.com

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WHERE TO GET YOUR COPY

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EDITORIAL

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©2023 KNITmuch. All rights reserved. Issue 18. ISSN 2368-5913

No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are for private, non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted material owned by their respective creators or owners.

KNITmuch

...to K, is to

6 Colorwork

10 Argyle socks, Did You Know?

16 Great new colors for a soft and cozy yarn

17 Knitting swatches: Taking needles and yarn for a test drive

19 A hat pattern designed for all ages (FREE knitting pattern)

21 Knitting a warm and cozy cowl [free pattern]

23 Weave or knit a houndstooth pattern with Deluxe Worsted Tweed yarn

26 Knit a log cabin retro chic Rockwell blanket: The '70s are back, baby!

28 How to knit a vintage ‘70s style blanket – block by block

31 Essential hand exercises for knitters as the Rockwell blanket grows!

34 Log cabin knitting: The final stretch to a retro Rockwell blanket

36 Knitting border blocks on a log cabin blanket

38 Knit, Relax, Smile, Repeat! Uni Merino and Merino Mini

39 Choosing UY Uni Merino colors to knit the West Wind Hat…hmmm

40 No more yarn tangles! | Two-handed Fair Isle knitting

41 Square knitting needles? A skeptic's review of KNITTER’S PRIDE Cubics

42 I HEART Lion Brand Yarn Heartland | the story of 3 hats and a cowl

Welcome to the latest edition of KNITmuch!

I'm thrilled to share our review of a delectable assortment of yarns from Universal Yarn and Lion Brand Yarn. We thoroughly swatched and knitted with both thick and thin yarn, while putting KNITTER'S PRIDE Cubics and Lantern Moon Destiny needles to the test in creating hats, cowls, and a vintage blanket.

In 2022, I eagerly took on the challenge of knitting the cropped version of Cynthia MacDougall's Seafaring Cabled Pullover, featured on page 14 of this issue. Let me tell you, it was one of the most delightful knits I've ever undertaken. There was a tight deadline to meet for its inclusion in Issue 60 of A Needle Pulling Thread magazine, so you can imagine the rush I was in! It wasn't until I embarked on my next knitting project that I realized the extent of the pain in my right shoulder. It was as though I had disregarded it entirely in my determination to finish the Seafaring Cabled Pullover. The truth hit me hard: knitting had become a painful endeavor! And let's be honest, September through November is the prime season for gift-knitting in preparation for the holidays. To my dismay, I had to take a few weeks off from knitting. I missed it dearly. Knitting serves as a form of meditation that soothes my soul at the end of each day, reassuring me that all is well. I'm sure you can relate. When I eventually resumed knitting, I did so cautiously and at a slower pace, focusing on the hats and cowl set described in " I HEART Lion Brand Yarn Heartland | the story of 3 hats and a cowl " starting on page 42.

Although I knitted slowly, and perhaps not every day, it took some time for the pain to fully dissipate. Thankfully, the subsequent projects were smaller in scale. Having said all that, I must express my gratitude for Fiona Stevenson's contribution to this issue. She emphasizes the significance of stretching before, during, and after every knitting session. Fiona is knitting a vintage log cabin blanket, the Rockwell Blanket by Lion Brand Yarn, and she reminds us to incorporate stretching into our knitting. I could have used this reminder when racing to complete the cropped Seafaring Cabled Pullover, but it's an experience I won't soon forget.

It was a pleasure to contribute a feature to this issue. I thoroughly enjoyed knitting the hats and cowl, and I found LBY Heartland to be delightfully soft and pleasant to work with. I also crafted a matching scarf, the Scalene by Carina Spencer, which is showcased here.

And now, it's time to stretch my fingers. Happy Knitting.

Cheerfully,

Knit Together

Colorwork

Color has a way of inspiring knitters. Yarn shop owners often find that knitters want to make a garment in either the same colours as the sample in the store, or the same colours as the pattern book. There are many ways to add color to knitting, from simple stripes to complex pictures. Two of the most common ways to add color to knitting are color stranding and intarsia. Fiona Ellis’ Reversible Inukshuk Cushion from ANPTmag Summer 2012 Issue, uses both methods.

Knit

Cynthia MacDougall

Together Design Studio

PO Box 562 Stn Main

Orillia, ON L3V 6K2

ktogdesign@gmail.com

ravelry name: macknitnow

Color stranding has a rich history and tradition. It is found in many cultures across Europe and the British Isles. Color stranding involves the carrying of two or more colours of yarn across a row to complete a design.

Intarsia also involves two or more colours across a row of knitting, but, instead of taking each color all the way across the row, the colours are ‘blocked’ into their respective areas, and each area has a strand of yarn dedicated to it.

These two types of knitting have two things in common: both need practice to get the tension even at the color changes, and color changes can be worked in the same way. To change colours on knit rows, release the first color of yarn. I like to put it down and angle it to the left. Then, pick up the next color and continue knitting. Photo 1 On a purl row, do the same thing: put the first color down, angle it slightly to the left, then pick up the next color and continue purling. Photo 2. I use this method for both color stranding and intarsia. I knit “British style”, which means I “throw” the yarn with my right index finger (see Picking and Throwing – sidebar). I find that this method gives me a good, consistent tension and I prefer the look of the back of the work when I use this method for color stranding. It makes a very neat appearance, as the yarns are always twisted in the same direction. Photos 3 and 4 . The one drawback with this method is that the yarns twist around each other, making it necessary to stop periodically and untangle the yarns.

To make the single inukshuk, the yarns are kept in blocks: to work the inukshuk’s “feet”, five strands of yarn are used: one for each white area, and one for each brown “foot”. Once the feet are completed, the center white strand is removed, and the second brown strand is also removed, to work the remaining three blocks of color in each row.

This side of Fiona Ellis’ cushion uses color stranding. The white strands and the brown strands are carried across the full width of the cushion to make the rows of inukshuks. A close look shows the brown yarn strands behind the white yarn between each inukshuk motif.

with Cynthia MacDougall

Photo by Mike Guilbault.

In color stranding, both yarns can be held in one hand or the other. The yarns can be carried over the same finger, or they can be separated by a finger with a yarn guide designed to keep the yarns slightly apart. Yet another way to work color stranding is to hold one color in each hand. This method requires some familiarity with both “British” and “Continental” style knitting (see Picking and Throwing sidebar). Holding one color in each hand can produce a very attractive fabric, but it can also pose problems with tension if the knitter has different tension between the two styles of knitting. For this reason, I recommend experimenting to find out how this method affects your knitting tension. I also recommend making a note on the pattern as a reminder of which color is assigned to each hand; or making it a habit to always carry one yarn in a specific hand – my motto is “light in the right” – I always carry the lighter coloured yarn in the right hand, and the darker coloured yarn in the left hand.

The single inukshuk cushion top is an ideal project for a knitter who wants to try intarsia knitting, as it requires only a maximum of five strands of yarn per row. Intarsia patterns can get very complex, with as many as 20 colours or color blocks across a row. To keep the back of the work as neat as possible, bobbins can be used to hold reasonable amounts of yarn at the ready. Bobbins can be purchased or made from makeshift materials such as cardboard, a clothes peg, or hand-wound “butterflies”.

Color stranding knit This photo was taken facing the knitter to show the yarns ready to change. The first color of yarn has been dropped and taken to the right side of the photo (which is to the knitter’s left). The next color has been picked up and is ready to begin.

Intarsia purl: This photo shows the knitter’s point of view. The last color has been dropped and taken to the knitter’s left. The next color is in the right hand, ready to knit the next stitch.

Photos this page by Cynthia MacDougall

It is very easy to get a hole in intarsia knitting if the yarn is not picked up correctly. When yarns are changed using the method described at the beginning of this article (see “To change colours…”), the yarns will wrap properly and no holes will occur. If a hole does occur, it can be repaired after the knitting is completed by using a strand of yarn in either of the colours beside the hole threaded through a sewing needle, and closing it up with stitches.

There are times in intarsia knitting when the contrasting color yarn needs to be carried across several stitches due to jogs in the design. The inukshuk in the cushion top has some great examples of this. The yarn can be “floated” across several stitches or woven in as one would do for color stranded knitting. It is a good idea to keep an eye on the next row of the pattern, so that the yarns can be carried to the correct place for the following row.

Both color stranding and intarsia knitting leave lots of ends to weave in when the knitting is finished. This is a good way to practice different ways of weaving ends and weaving them in as invisibly as possible. It also offers practice in snugging up the tension at color changes to match the tension of the rest of the knitting.

Achieving even tension in both color stranding and intarsia knitting may take practice. It may also be necessary to adjust the needle size. I find that when working color stranding, I often need to increase the size of my needles.

There are many books by many designers that can inspire a knitter to work with color.

Color can add joy to any knitting project. Let it inspire you to try stranded knitting or intarsia.

Mossbank WS and RS: The pattern on the wrong side of this fine Shetland sweater (top) is almost as clear as the right side (bottom).

Sources:

A History of Hand Knitting, Richard Rutt, 1987, Interweave Press

The Essential Guide to Color Knitting Techniques, Margaret Radcliffe, 2008, Storey Publishing

Inspirational Reading:

Andean Folk Knits, Marcia Lewandowski, 2005, Lark Books

Around the World in Eighty Sweaters, Sue Bradley, 1988, Henry Holt and Company

Family Album, Kaffe Fassett and Zoë Hunt, 1989, Century Hutchinson Ltd.

Glorious Knitting, Kaffe Fassett, 1985, Century Hutchinson Ltd.

Knits from the North Country, Cindy Nicholls, Ed., 2004, Briggs & Little Woolen Mills

Knitting Color, Brandon Mably, 2006, Sixth & Spring Books

Knitting Masterpieces, Ruth Herring and Karen Manners, 1987, Pantheon Books

Knitting out of Africa, Marianne Isager, 2005, Interweave Press

Norwegian Handknits, Sue Flanders and Janine Kosel, 2009, Voyageur Press

Summer and Winter Knitting, Rowan’s Designer Collection, 1987, The Westminster Trading Corp.

The Art of Fair Isle Knitting, Ann Feitelson, 1996, Interweave Press

Traditional Fair Isle Knitting, Sheila McGregor, 1981, Dover Publications Inc.

Traditional Scandinavian Knitting, Sheila McGregor, 1984, Dover Publications Inc.

Picking & Throwing

There are many ways of holding needles and yarn, and even more ways of describing them. The two methods with the most generic names are picking and throwing.

Picking is frequently called Continental style knitting. It is often used by left handed knitters or by crocheters who may find it comfortable to have the yarn held in their left (dominant) hand. It is called picking because the tip of the right needle goes through the stitch on the left needle and behind the yarn, where the loop is “picked” up and brought back through the stitch before removing it from the left needle. This method of knitting uses a minimum amount of body movement.

Throwing is also called British style, or sometimes Victorian style. It evolved in the parlors of Victorian England, because it put the hands in a more dainty pose which was quite different from the hand position used by production knitters. In British style, the yarn is held in the right hand, and woven through the fingers so that it crosses the tip of the index finger. The right needle tip is inserted into the stitch on the left needle, and the yarn is “thrown” around the tip of the right needle by the right fingertip before the loop is pulled through the stitch. Depending on the thickness of the yarn and needles, this form of knitting can require anything from a flick of the finger to the moving of the entire hand to complete a stitch, making this less efficient, and sometimes slower method of knitting. - Cynthia

Did You Know?

There is little documentation about the history of many knitting techniques. This holds true for color stranding and intarsia, however color stranding appears to pre-date intarsia by at least a century. Examples of color stranded knitting have been dated as early as 1297 (Rutt, p. 56) and many ethnic knitting traditions – including Fair Isle, Norwegian, Andean, and Estonian – historically used color stranding. There are several possible reasons why color stranding was invented.

by Cynthia MacDougall

high enough for a man of the cloth to wear. Two examples of these gloves appear on page 57 of Richard Rutt’s A History of Hand Knitting. Believed to be made in the 1500s, one is a masterpiece of color stranding. The other has a very detailed motif on the back of the hand that looks as though it might have been worked in a combination of intarsia and color stranding. However, this is unlikely because the gloves would have been knitted in the round. It is probable that the contrasting color was carried with all stitches on each round, because, in order for the colours to be in the correct place for the next row, intarsia has to be worked back-and-forth.

Another possible reason for using color stranding in centuries past would be to use every last bit of yarn. It took a lot of time to process and spin yarn before the advent of industrialized yarn processing. In addition, yarn and fibers were dyed by hand in small batches, making it difficult to produce large quantities of yarn with the exact same color, or dye lot. Color stranding made it possible to incorporate many different shades into one garment. If the brown used in the sleeves wasn’t exactly the same color as the brown used in the body, it wouldn’t be as noticeable as it would be if the colours were knitted in a solid block.

Centuries ago, knitters worked with very fine yarns, sometimes with as many as 20 stitches to the inch/2.5cm (or 80 stitches to 4 inches/10cm). Carrying a second color across each row effectively doubled the thickness of the cloth and added warmth.

Craftsmanship was very important in centuries past, and the detail that can be achieved with color stranding made it possible for the knitter to make very intricate patterns. Fine knitted gloves were used in religious practice; great care was taken to ensure these knits were made of a quality

Intarsia is a relatively new technique to the craft of knitting. According to Rutt, the first use of the word in relation to knitting was made in 1957. Early examples of intarsia were used in curling sweaters that were popular in the 1950s by companies such as Mary Maxim. These sweaters featured pictures of birds, deer, beavers, and other animals. They were worked in bulky yarn that was warm enough to work in one layer. The color-blocked sweaters the 1980s brought intarsia knitting back into popularity.

Photo by Michael Wright

Thoughtful Soles Series

Welcome

Aurora Cowl & Midnight Over Blue Mountain Shawl by

Nancy Lekx

Soft

Issue 61

Great new colors for a soft and cozy yarn

Welcome to a new KNITmuch Issue, where I’ll knit with some of the new colors of Universal Yarn Deluxe Worsted Tweed This classic tweedy look yarn is a great choice for warm and cozy garments, accessories, and home decor. In addition, I’m using Lantern Moon Destiny circular knitting needles for my projects.

Deluxe Worsted Tweed was already available in an amazing variety of 20 different colors, but 7 new colors were added to the mix of which I’m using 3 in this feature – Beet, Great Lakes, and Putty.

This is how the yarn arrived at my home – neatly packaged up in a box and wrapped in tissue. I felt like the yarn fairy had delivered this package just for me.

Deluxe Worsted Tweed is comprised of 90% Superwash Wool, 3% Viscose and 7% Acrylic. It’s machine washable on a gentle cycle in cold water and can be tumbled dry at a low temperature, which makes for easy-care garments for all ages. Each 3.5oz [100g] ball contains 218yds [200m] of extremely soft and lovely yarn with a recommended gauge of 18 sts x 24 rows = 4” [10cm] using a US7 [4.5mm] needle.

Speaking of needles, as I mentioned at the beginning of this feature, I also get to use Lantern Moon Destiny Circular Needles for my projects. To quote the manufacturer…

“These fixed circular needles are made using Ebony, one of the world’s most premium wood. Its strength, dense grain and durability make it a preferred choice for knitters.

The liquid silk finish on our needles, plus the 24K gold finish on the brass connectors and the smooth nylon-coated stainless steel cord ensures that your knitting will glide with no-snag ease. The perfectly shaped tips work well with every yarn to help you create your very best work.”

Late summer is a gret time to knit for the holidays tackling those cozy and warm items that you can give as gifts, but most importantly, can donate to a multitude of charitable organizations.

Up next, I knit some swatches with Universal Yarn Deluxe Worsted Tweed and my new Lantern Moon Destiny handcrafted circular knitting needles.

Lantern Moon Handcrafted Circular Needles in ebony

Photos by Cindy O’Malley

Universal Yarn Deluxe Worsted Tweed

Cindy O'Malley

Knitting swatches: Taking needles and yarn for a test drive

I’m knitting some swatches to test out the gauge of the yarn using the Lantern Moon wood needles. As I mentioned , the recommended gauge is 18 sts x 24 rows = 4” [10cm] using a US7 [4.5mm] needle. I’m using both a US7 [4.5mm] and a US6 [4.0mm] needle to determine the gauge that I achieve for my projects.

Since the needles are dark in color, I’ll use Putty to knit my swatches. I prefer to knit with circular needles, even when working flat, however, I almost always use metal needles. I have wooden needles, which I do use on occasion when I need a little extra grip on slippery yarn. This was an adjustment for me, so I started knitting with them but reserved judgment until I had a chance to get used to them.

For my first swatch, I’ll use the recommended needle size of US7 [4.5mm]. One of the differences I find when knitting with metal needles versus wood is that I tend to knit a little tighter with metal. That’s because I slide my yarn on the needle which could result in a loose gauge. When knitting with wooden needles, I need to relax a little or else I end up with very tight stitches. I usually start my swatches with a couple of garter stitch rows and this was enough to allow me to loosen my grip before getting to the stocking stitch section.

The key factors for me in evaluating circular needles are:

• The points – I prefer pointed over rounded and the Lantern Moon needles have really good points.

• The smoothness of the needle – very smooth and once I lessened my grip a bit, the yarn slid smoothly along the needle.

• The pliability of the cord – I use a Magic Loop for all my knitting in the round so the pliability of the cord is an absolute must – good pliability.

• The transition between the cord and the needle – this wasn’t as smooth as I’d like, but this may be largely due to me not being adjusted as yet.

Deluxe Worsted Tweed in Putty with Lantern Moon circular needles in Ebony

As for the yarn, the Deluxe Worsted Tweed is lovely and soft to knit and I like the speckled tweed look. It has a really good stitch definition and I achieved the recommended gauge of 18 sts x 24 rows = 4” [10cm].

Since I plan to make warm and cozy accessories for the chilly days ahead, I decided to go down a needle size to measure the fabric gauge. This time, I used a US6 [4.0mm] needle to knit up my swatch.

This was a very interesting exercise for me. I would normally expect and generally achieve a gauge of 20sts x 26 rows = 4” with a US7 [4.5mm] on worsted weight yarn, but I achieved that with a US6 [4.0mm]. What I find interesting is that a gauge of 18 sts usually means an Aran weight yarn, just slightly heavier than a worsted, but I wouldn’t classify Deluxe Worsted Tweed as an Aran weight. It’s very light, even for a worsted weight. I can only attribute it to how the yarn blooms when knit, which should make for very cozy garments and accessories. I’m really looking forward to working with it.

As for the Lantern Moon needles, I preferred knitting with the US6 [4.0mm]. I found the transition between the cord and needle was much smoother, but as I mentioned here, that could just be me adjusting as I knit. I’ll be using both sizes over the next couple of days, so I’ll let you know. I

Deluxe Worsted Tweed is soft to knit and the tweed effect highlights the stitch definition.

achieved a gauge of 20 sts x 26 rows = 4” with a US6 [4.0mm] needle.

A hat pattern designed for all ages (FREE knitting pattern)

I knit a lot of hats for the family and charity drives. Sometimes I’ll knit up a specific hat pattern, but most often, I use a stock template hat pattern and personalize it with my own pattern stitch ideas. Hats are a great way to experiment with different patterns and colors, and this feature is no exception!

There are so many hat patterns to choose from on Ravelry, which is my main source for looking up ideas. One of my favorites is Bankhead, which is a free pattern designed by Susie Gourlay. I originally discovered this pattern at the request of my son, who works in construction, and wanted a warm hat he could wear under his hard hat. This seemed to fit the bill, so I downloaded it, knit it and proceeded to knit one for every male family member. The following year, I started personalizing them by knitting them a little differently for each person, including the young-uns. Why? Because this pattern is sized for Infant to Adult X-Large in a gauge of 20sts = 4”. The designer did all the heavy lifting for sizing and all I have to do is adjust for my pattern multiple. I also knew I had a winner with this pattern when I started to get repeated requests from some family members. Hence, Bankhead has become my template hat pattern. The first hat I knit was the Child/Toddler size, in which I followed the lovely design of the pattern. Every other hat I’ll be knitting will be based on this pattern but will look completely different.

I’m really pleased with the stitch definition and tweed effects of the Deluxe Worsted Tweed yarn. I think the hat knit up beautifully and it’s really soft. The twisted rib stitch is really stretchy, but it contracts really well which gives this hat a snug fit. The stretchiness of the rib section is largely dependent upon the cast-on method. I used two separate strands of yarn to do a long tail caston with the alternating thumb method, which is where you alternate the position of the yarn over your left thumb with each stitch cast on. Here’s a close-up photo of what this method looks like. For this example, I used 2 different colors of yarn to illustrate how to alternate the working yarn around your thumb for each stitch cast on the needle which creates pairs of stitches resulting in a stretchy cast-on method. I use this method a lot, especially when knitting top-down socks.

Bankhead hat in Toddler size knit with Deluxe Worsted Tweed in Putty and US6 [4.0mm] needle

Here’s a pattern for a second hat that I’m currently knitting based on the same template pattern, but this time, I’m using a mock or faux cable pattern. I use this quite often on hats and socks and it’s based on a pattern repeat of 5sts which works really well with the Bankhead pattern instructions.

By the way, here’s a little TIP I’d like to share with you. Whenever there’s a slipped stitch, people often ask if it’s slipped knit-wise or purl-wise. The rule of thumb is always purl-wise unless told differently, but here’s another - Knit now, Purl later. That means if you’re using the slipped stitch right away, it’s generally slipped knit-wise (e.g., Sl1, K2, psso); if it won’t be worked until later, then it’s slipped purl-wise.

abbreviations

K = Knit

P = Purl

K1tbl = Knit 1 through the back loop

Sl = Slip stitch knit-wise

psso = Pass slipped stitch over

yo = Yarn over.

Body

Round 1: *K1tbl, p1, k2, p1*, repeat from *.

Round 2: *K1tbl, p1, k1, yo, k1, pl * repeat from *.

Round 3: *K1tbl, p1, k3, p1* repeat from *.

Round 4: *K1tbl, p1, Sl1, k2, psso, p1* repeat from *Crown

When it comes to decreasing stitches for the crown, you can get creative and do your own thing or you can just switch to stocking stitch (Knit all rounds) or garter stitch (Knit 1 round, Purl 1 round) and work your decreases based on the pattern instructions. I tend to vary my approach based on the pattern I’ve chosen to use as the body.

These are just 2 examples of how you can create very different-looking hats based on the same template pattern. But we’re not done yet.

Alternating the way the working yarn wraps around your thumb creates a stretchy long tail cast on.

Sneak preview of the Faux Cable pattern in progress with Deluxe Worsted Tweed

Knitting a warm and cozy cowl [free pattern]

Once again, I’m using each of the 3 new colors of Deluxe Worsted Tweed to knit up the cowls, beginning with Great Lakes. Designed by Gretchen Tracy, the Sailor’s Rib Cowl is based on a worsted weight gauge of 20sts = 4” which is perfect for Deluxe Worsted Tweed. I love the texture of the pattern just as it is, but I’ve also personalized it by using different pattern motifs.

For the first cowl, I’m using Deluxe Worsted Tweed in color Great Lakes and the Lantern Moon US6 [4.0mm] circular needles. My needles are 32” which means I’ll need to either use the Magic Loop method and/or, what I refer to as ‘choking up’ on the needles. This should be a really good test for the Lantern Moon needles.

I love the texture of this stitch and the tweed effects of the yarn really highlight the pattern. My goal is to knit 3 in total, one in each color of which at least one is sized for a child.

How will I do that when the pattern is one size? By using the stitch count of the hat pattern from the previous article, of course. If you notice, the stitch count for the Adult Large hat is the same as the Cowl. Since cowls are not form-fitted, the sizing just needs to be close. As for the length, it can be folded over if it’s too long. That’s one of the things I really like about the pattern; it looks good on both sides and folded over adds to the warmth.

I intend to use last mock or faux cable pattern to knit one of the cowls. It gives me variety when I knit and it looks good. You can use a multiple of 5sts from any pattern, but if the pattern motif you want to use is a multiple of 6sts, you can use 102sts instead of 100. It doesn’t have to be exactly the same as the pattern, just close enough to maintain the sizing.

Sailor’s Rib Cowl knit with Deluxe Worsted Tweed in Great Lakes and US6 [4.0mm] needle

Here are the instructions for the Mock or Faux Cable Pattern I used on the hat and will be using on another cowl.

abbreviations

K = Knit

P = Purl

K1tbl = Knit 1 through back loop

Sl = Slip stitch knit-wise

psso = Pass slipped stitch over

yo = Yarn over

Mock or Faux Cable Pattern

Round 1: *K1tbl, p1, k2, p1*, repeat from *.

Round 2: *K1tbl, p1, k1, yo, k1, pl * repeat from *.

Round 3: *K1tbl, p1, k3, p1* repeat from *.

Round 4: *K1tbl, p1, Sl1, k2, psso, p1* repeat from *.

I love the look of this cowl and I really enjoy knitting it. I’ve made it many, many times, just like the hat and I’ve had requests for more. Universal Yarn Deluxe Worsted Tweed is a great choice for this pattern. The tweed effects and stitch definition of the yarn work really well with the stitch pattern. I think when I make another hat, I’ll use the Sailor’s Rib stitch pattern.

I must say that I’ve fully adjusted to using wood needles as opposed to my usual metal ones. The Lantern Moon Destiny circular needles performed really well for Magic Loop knitting.

Lantern Moon Destiny Needles

Sailor’s Rib Cowl folded over

Weave or knit a houndstooth pattern with Deluxe Worsted Tweed yarn

Now we’re combining colors in a weaving and knitting projects. When I first felt the yarn, I was just as curious as to how it would weave as it was to knit. The softness, the color and the tweed effects were wonderful for knitting, but now I want to see how it looks in a woven fabric. I’m setting aside the knitting needles for the Rigid Heddle loom, and this time, I’m using all 3 colors together to weave a wrap or oversized scarf. To begin, I had to plan out my design and finished size of the project.

I decided on a houndstooth pattern which usually is in 2 colors, however, I opted to use all 3 colors together. I was shooting for a finished size of 15” wide x 66” in length without a fringe which meant I needed to plan for approximately 18” wide x 72” long. The yardage requirements calculated as: Beet 166, Great Lakes 176, Putty 242, which means I need 1 ball of each Beet and Great Lakes, and 2 balls of Putty.

The heddle I used was 5 dents per inch (dpi) which means there are 5 warp threads to the inch and I tried to weave at 5 picks per inch (ppi) for the weft threads. I was concerned that it was too loose and wished I had used 7.5 dpi. When I took the finished project off the loom, I hand-washed it and laid it flat to dry. It looked a little better, but I still thought it was too loose. A suggestion made by one of my Weaving Guild friends was to put it in the washer and dryer. So, I followed the laundry instructions for Deluxe Worsted Tweed which state, Machine Wash Cold Gentle Cycle, Tumble Dry Low Temperature and voilà!

Universal Yarn Deluxe Worsted Tweed

Design draft of Houndstooth weaving pattern using 3 colors of Deluxe Worsted Tweed

Houndstooth pattern on the Rigid Heddle loom using 5 dents per inch

It’s perfect. It launders beautifully, and the finished product is soft and luscious. The yarn has bloomed in both color and feel. I’m so pleased with the results and the finished size turned out to be 14” wide by 66” in length without the fringe. This makes me want to weave some more. But I have one last knitting project I want to do - a houndstooth hat, this time using 2 colors, Beet and Putty.

I deviated from the Bankhead pattern a little bit for this one, so I’ll write out what I did and what I used since I use the Magic Loop method. If you don’t use Magic Loop, you may prefer to use double-pointed needles or 16” circulars.

materials

yarn

• 1 ball each of Deluxe Worsted Tweed in Beet (MC) and Putty (CC)

needles

• US6 [4.0mm] Lantern Moon Destiny 32”

circular knitting needles

• US7 [4.5mm] Lantern Moon Destiny 32”

circular knitting needles

abbreviations

K = Knit

P = Purl

MC = Main Color

CC = Contrasting Color

K2tog = Knit 2 sts together

St(s) = Stitch(es)

Rib section – 2 x 2 rib

Using smaller size needles and MC, cast on 96 sts and join in the round being careful not to twist the stitches and place a marker to denote the beginning of round.

Knit in 2x2 rib (K2, P2) for 3” or desired length. Knit 1 round increasing 4sts evenly around (100sts).

Full length view after laundering, the 5dpi was perfect for this weight of yarn.

Close-up view after laundering; the 5dpi was perfect for this weight of yarn.

Houndstooth knitted hat in Deluxe Worsted Tweed in Beet and Putty

Body section – Houndstooth pattern

Switch to larger size needles and join CC.

Beginning with Row 4 of the Houndstooth chart pattern, work pattern 6 times (or desired length) and end with a Row 1 of the chart.

Crown section

Switch to smaller size needles and knit 1 round in MC.

Decrease rounds:

*K8, K2tog, repeat from * to end of round. Knit 1 round.

*K7, K2tog, repeat from * to end of round. Knit 1 round.

Continue to decrease in this manner until 20sts remain on the needles.

K2tog to end of round.

Cut yarn leaving a long enough length to thread through the remaining 10 sts, draw tight and secure.

Weave in all ends.

There we have it, a weaving pattern incorporated into a knitting pattern. Because of the houndstooth pattern, I opted for a 2x2 rib instead of the twisted rib pattern. I thought it flowed better, but it tends to be looser which is why I started with 96sts, but increased to 100sts and the larger size needle for the 2-color section. This helped to keep it from being too tight. I could’ve used the crown decreases from Bankhead which would have worked just as well but I really like the spiral effect of the decreases on the crown.

As much as I love both the woven and knitted version of the houndstooth pattern, I wouldn’t wear them both at the same time. I think the scarf with a hat made with Great Lakes or with Beet would be lovely together, as would the hat with a cowl knit with either Beet or Putty. This was a lot of fun. I really enjoyed working with Universal Yarn Deluxe Worsted Tweed and using the Lantern Moon Destiny wooden knitting needles. It’s good to step outside of your comfort zone now and then. As you can see from the photo, I’m far from finished. I intend to use up every bit of this lovely yarn to make warm and cozy items to donate to charity. Of the 9 balls of yarn I started with, I still have half of it left which means I have a lot more knitting to do over the next couple of weeks. Look for my finished projects on Facebook.

I hope you enjoyed and hope you will experiment by taking a tried and true pattern and having some fun with it. Happy knitting.

Cindy O'Malley cindooknits.blogspot.com

Knit a log cabin retro chic Rockwell blanket: The '70s are back, baby!

Nostalgia knitting

When I saw the photo of this Rockwell blanket, I just knew I had to knit it! I’m a kid of the seventies, and this log cabin knit blanket filled me with nostalgia for my childhood in a small country town. My mom would cover couches and beds with blankets like these which she had made herself or had found at a local craft sale. Time travel along with me as I teach you how to log cabin knit this nostalgic Rockwell blanket with a free pattern from Lion Brand Yarn Hue+Me, and Lantern Moon Destiny needles. We’ll knit together this super cozy blanket, color block by color block, using the log cabin knitting technique. Bonus, it’s really easy to learn! The whole project is knit flat using garter stitch (only knit stitches) throughout. First, let me explain a bit about log cabin knitting, then I’ll provide a list of materials and links, so you can get your supplies to join in the fun of bringing a little of the seventies to 2023.

Lion Brand Yarn

Fiona Stevenson

Photos by Fiona Stevenson

Log cabin knitting and Hue + Me yarn make this cozy retro Rockwell Blanket.

Log cabin knitting builds block upon block.

What is log cabin knitting?

Log cabin knitting is a technique that was adapted from quilting that creates a dynamic design. It starts with a single square or rectangle which is bound off. Stitches are then picked up along one side to build out the next block. When this block is bound off, a new block begins by picking up stitches along the edge of the two blocks that were just finished. Each block has the opportunity to change the color of the yarn, the direction of the stitches, and its size which creates interesting structures in the knit design. The finished project will be square or rectangular with blocks of color flowing throughout it. Think back to building a toy plastic brick house when you were a kid, and this has a similar playful result.

Log cabin knitting is quite simply a method of building a knitted project block by block using a series of bind offs and picked up stitches. In this feature you’ll learn how to knit the log cabin method with photo tutorials that will help you follow the pattern of the Rockwell blanket to completion. This technique is an easy but impactful way to add color to any project.

Materials for the Rockwell blanket

Are you itching to get started? Then let’s get the materials and go! You’ll notice I used the exact same yarn in the same colors as the pattern. The only change was adding a single ball of Desert (8 instead of 7). I ran out of

Desert before finishing blocks 19 and 20, and had to substitute the color Werewolf. I recommend using a long circular needle to knit back and forth to keep the weight of the blanket even as you knit it to reduce strain on your hands and wrists.

Free Pattern Rockwell Blanket by Lion Brand Yarn

materials

yarn

LBY Hue+Me

• 8 skeins Desert

• 1 skein Spicy

• 1 skein Arrowwood

• 1 skein Bellini

• 1 skein Werewolf

• 1 skein Magic Hour

• 1 skein Juniper

needles

• Lantern Moon Destiny 9mm 32” Circular notions

• UNIQUE Knitting round tip yarn needle

• scissors

• a locking stitch marker

Rockwell blanket colors of Hue+Me yarn

How to knit a vintage ‘70s style blanket – block by block

Blocks 1-6

I knit my blanket using the exact yarn and colors of the pattern, so it was easy to get started. You’ll learn the basics of log cabin knitting with a couple of videos to help you pick up stitches for log cabin knitting patterns. I’ll explain, block by block, how to build the Rockwell Blanket with helpful graphics to keep you on track. Are you ready to jump into blocks 1-6 of this nostalgic knit? Good, let’s go!

Let’s get started with block 1

Here we go with block one! Grab your color B (this is the Spicy colorway in Hue+Me wool). Just a warning about the circular needles if you’re new to using them for flat projects. I chose the

Lantern Moon Ebony needles with a 32” cord which is quite long for the first few squares. I did it because, as the blanket grows, the longer rope is needed to hold all the stitches. Unfortunately, until the blanket grows, the cord can be a little in the way.

Trust me, it’s worth the inconvenience for the benefit of having the extra length to help balance such a heavy and large knitting project. That said, let’s get the first block done. This is the simplest, most straightforward part of the blanket. Cast on the 14 stitches loosely, knit 26 rows, then bind off. Easy!

Place the tail of the bind off on the upper left hand corner and a locking stitch marker on the front of the square marking the right side of the work.

There are two important steps to do next. First, make sure to have your square turned so the tail of the bind off is at the top left hand corner (see photo). Then place a locking stitch marker on the fabric that is faced towards you to mark the right side of your work (see photo). The garter stitch looks identical on both sides, and it’s easy to lose track of the right side of your work in the beginning. To pick up your stitches properly for the log cabin knitting technique, you need to be clear that you’re on the correct side. You will always pick up stitches with the right side facing up…always! Now, you’re ready to start your second block and begin creating the log cabin pattern that will continue throughout this project.

Picking up the stitches for block 2

Here is an illustration to help you see the side of the block from which you will be picking up the stitches for block 2 and in what direction they are to be picked up.

Using your color A (colorway Desert - Hue+Me wool), pick up and knit 14 stitches along the right side edge of the first block. If you’re not sure how to pick up stitches along a garter stitch edge, the video below by Martha Lyons is very helpful.

Here’s a quick video showing how to pick up stitches on a garter stitch edge

Pick up a stitch at the cast on edge and then one for each garter ridge at the edge. Two rows of knitting in garter stitch (the right side and wrong side row) actually make up one edge stitch bump. So, the 26 rows of knitting you completed on block one only need 13 stitches picked up for this block. Along with the one stitch picked up at the cast-on edge, this makes the total of 14 stitches you need to knit block 2. Go on and knit block 2 according to the pattern, and we can move onto the next step.

Picking up the stitches for block 3

The next step is a little different from the last one. Below is a graphic to show you where to pick up the stitches for the next square. It has an arrow indicating the direction for the picked up stitches. This time you’ll pick up across 2 blocks not just one, and you’ll be doing it on a garter edge (block 2) and bind-off edge (block 1). Pick up the stitches across the top of blocks 1 and 2 from right to left using color A (Desert) as follows: pick 1 stitch at the bind-off edge of block 2 then pick 20 stitches at the garter edge of block 2; then pick up the 13 remaining stitches (remaining because one stitch was already worked to start block 2) of block 1. Knit block 3 as described in the pattern then bind off all the stitches loosely.

Lantern Moon Destiny Needles in ebony

Follow the direction of the arrow to pick up stitches for block 2 along the side edge of block 1 from right to left.

Follow the direction of the arrow to pick up stitches for block 3 across block 2 then block 1.

Follow the direction of the arrow to pick up stitches for block 4 across block 2 then block 3.

Block 4

Follow the direction of the arrow to pick up stitches for block 5 across block 4 then block 3.

To help you complete blocks 4 to 6 I added graphics showing on which side to start the next block with an arrow showing the direction in which these stitches are picked up. Follow the instructions in the pattern for how many stitches to pick up for each block and what color of yarn to use. Be sure to read carefully how many stitches to pick up and note if there is a bind off stitch picked up at the corner before the garter row edges. Switch to color C (Arrowwood) and pick up the remaining 13 stitches (14 stitches bound off for block 2, but only 13 remain because one was used for the pick-up of block 3) along the bind-off edge of block 2. Then pick up 50 stitches along the side edge of block 3. Knit the number of rows given in the pattern then bind off all the stitches.

Block 5

For block 5 return to color A (Desert). Pick up 1 stitch at the bind off edge of block 4 then 13 more stitches at the side edge of this block. Finish the setup for block 5 by continuing to pick up 33 stitches along the bound off edge of block 3. Knit the number of rows given in the pattern then bind off all the stitches.

Block 6

Follow the direction of the arrow to pick up stitches for block 6 across block 4 then block 5.

Block 6 continues with color A (Desert). Pick up the remaining 62 stitches of the bind off edge of block 4 then 13 stitches along the garter ridge edge of block 5. Knit the amount of rows for block 6 found in the pattern, then bind off all the stitches.

That’s a good start - let’s keep going!

Essential hand exercises for knitters as the Rockwell blanket grows!

You probably also noticed the blanket is growing bigger very fast! This is where the longer cord of the Ebony needles starts to make sense. It also makes sense to add some stretching before knitting to avoid injuring yourself as you create this super bulky blanket. So, before jumping into blocks 7-11, warm up by stretching out your fingers, hands, and wrists with a few quick easypeasy exercises.

Warm-up stretches before you start

It’s easy to forget how physically demanding it is to knit stitch upon stitch sometimes for hours at a time. We, knitters, think of our craft as stationary, but I had a friend wear a fitness watch that accidentally tracked her knitting as if she was walking. When I tell you she far exceeded her steps for the day I’m not exaggerating! If we were planning to jog or hike for a few hours we would stretch to warm up our bodies for the exercise. Well, I tell you that knitting at the speed we do for the length of time we do is a marathon for the hands and arms like it is for the legs of a long-distance runner. So, we warm them up before we dive into such a physically demanding activity! Here are a few stretches to limber you up before you hit the chair of Olympic knitting.

Fingers, hand, and wrist stretches

These instructions were reposted from the Knitter’s Pride Mindful Blog: 10 Best Hand

Stretches for Knitting. Always make sure you stretch gently and never push yourself to the point of pain. As you practice these stretches you will become more flexible and they will become easier.

Wrist stretch

“Extend your arms in front of you, forming an even line with your shoulders, i.e. not too high and not too low. Keep the elbows as straight as you can without forcing them, though. Now make a loose fist and bend your wrists downward until you begin to notice a stretch in your forearms. Rotate your fists lightly until the backs of your hands face each other.”

Finger flexing stretch

“Extend one arm in front of you, keeping your elbow straight and flex your wrist as if signalling ‘stop’. Use the other hand to gently bend your wrist and fingers toward you. Hold this stretch for a few seconds. Reverse and repeat for the opposite arm. Stretch gently.”

The starfish stretch

“Hold your arms outstretched to your left and right at a 90-degree angle. Keep your shoulders down and clench your fist tightly and quickly. Then release them dramatically but gently as wide open as you can. Imagine your hands as a pair of starfish or octopuses making a dance move on the water. You can perform this exercise with both fists at once or one after the other. Repeat several times.”

Arm and shoulder stretches

The first two stretches are from the Knitter’s Pride Mindful Blog: Stretches for Knitters

Follow the direction of the arrow to pick up stitches from right to left for block

7 across block 6 then block 5.

Big Hug

Wrap the arms around your body as if hugging yourself with your left arm over the right one. Tuck the chin slowly. Hold for a moment then unwrap and do the same with your right arm over the left. Repeat a few times.

Sky Stretch

Interlace your fingers and stretch your arms above your head then gently bend to the right side. Hold for a moment then bend to the left and hold again. Repeat a few times.

The last warm-up stretch I learned from my years of swimming.

Chest/shoulder/arm stretch

Follow the direction of the arrow to pick up stitches for block 8 across block 6 then block 7.

Interlace your fingers behind your back with the palms facing each other. Drop your shoulders and stretch your chest as you gently pull your hands downwards and slightly away from the body. Hold for 10 seconds. Shake out your arms and repeat a few more times.

You’re ready to start knitting the next 6 blocks of the Rockwell blanket!

Block 7

For block 7 use color D (Bellini) to pick up one stitch of the bind-off edge of block 6 followed by 54 more stitches across the garter and bind-off edges of blocks 6 and 5 (see graphic here). Knit the required number of rows in the pattern and bind off.

Block 8

Follow the direction of the arrow to pick up stitches from right to left for block 9 across block 8 then block 7.

For block 8 switch back to color A (Desert). Take note: at the beginning of block 7, you picked up one of the bind-off stitches at the edge of block 6 before picking up the garter stitches. Because that one stitch is already knit into block 7, you’ll have one less bind-off stitch to pick up for block 8. Pick up one stitch for each of the remaining 74 bind-off stitches on block 6 followed by 11 stitches along the garter edge of block 7 (see graphic here). Knit the required number of rows in the pattern and bind off.

Block 9

Continue to use color A (Desert) for this block. Pick up one stitch of the bind-off edge of block 8 then 11 stitches for each of the ridges along the garter edge and 53 stitches of the bind-off edge stitches of block 7 (see graphic here). Knit the required number of rows in the pattern and bind off.

Block 10

Switch to color E (Werewolf) and pick up one stitch for each of the remaining 84 bind-off stitches on block 8 followed by 15 stitches along the garter ridge edge of block 9 (see graphic here). Knit the required number of rows in the pattern and bind off.

Block 11

All right, you’re on the final block. Block 11 returns to color A (Desert). Pick up the first stitch of the bind-off edge of block 10 then pick up 3 stitches along the garter edge of this block. Continue to pick up 64 stitches of the bind-off edge of block 9 to complete the set up for block 11. Knit the required rows and bind off. You’re done with this section of the Rockwell!

How’s your blanket going so far? I hope you love the way this log cabin design is growing!

Follow the direction of the arrow to pick up stitches for block 10 across block 8 then block 9.

Follow the direction of the arrow to pick up stitches for block 11 across block 10 then block 9.

Log cabin knitting: The final stretch to a retro Rockwell blanket

Block 12

This process of picking up stitches should feel very familiar by now, but I’ll continue to describe how to set up each block as the blanket grows just to be sure it all goes smoothly til the end. This series of blocks follow the same pattern as all the previous ones. For block 12 use color A (Desert) to pick up the remaining 98 stitches across the bind-off edge of block 10 then pick up 7 stitches at the garter ridge edge of block 11 (see diagram here). Knit the required number of rows in the pattern and bind off.

Block 13

Switch to color F (Magic Hour) for this block. Pick up one stitch of the bind off edge of block 12 then 5 stitches for each of the ridges along the garter edge. To complete the setup of block 13, pick up the remaining 67 stitches of the bind off edge of block 11 (see diagram here). Then knit the required number of rows in the pattern and bind off.

Block 14

Return to color A (Desert) and pick up one stitch for each of the 104 remaining bind off stitches on block 12 then pick up 9 stitches along the edge of block 13 (see diagram here). Knit the required number of rows in the pattern and bind off.

Stop! Take a quick stretch break for your back, neck, and hips.

Lion Brand Yarn

It’s really important, especially as this blanket grows heavier, to take a break in the middle of knitting to stretch out your body. Though a lot of the tension of knitting is in the hands and arms, it’s really important to be aware of the stress it puts on other areas of your body. Lion Brand Yarn has made a series of videos on yoga techniques for knitters. The video is one of the series that targets the back, neck, and hips. Take a few minutes now, and do something good for your body.

The warm and cozy ‘70s retro Rockwell blanket.

Follow the direction of the arrow to pick up stitches from right to left for block 12 across block 10 then block 11.

Block 15

Continue to use color A (Desert) for this block. Pick up one stitch of the bind off edge of block 14 then 8 stitches for each of the ridges along the garter edge. Continue picking up the remaining 72 stitches of the bind off edge of block 13 (see diagram here). Knit the required number of rows in the pattern and bind off.

Block 16

Switch to color G (Juniper) and pick up one stitch for each of the remaining 112 bind-off stitches on block 14 followed by 3 stitches along the garter edge of block 15 (see diagram here). Knit the required number of rows in the pattern and bind off.

Almost there!

Follow the direction of the arrow to pick up stitches from right to left for block 13 across block 12 then block 11.

Follow the direction of the arrow to pick up stitches for block 14 across block 12 then block 13.

Follow the direction of the arrow to pick up stitches from right to left for block 15 across block 14 then block 13.

Follow the direction of the arrow to pick up stitches for block 16 across block 14 then block 15.

Knitting border blocks on a log cabin blanket

We’re wrapping this blanket up with the final four blocks that make up the border edge. I’ll also be finishing up this feature with one final yoga stretch for knitters that will blow your mind because it works all the stress areas! But, first, let’s get blocks 17-18 done.

Border block 17

The next two blocks, 17 and 18, follow the same pattern as all the previous blocks. All four of the border blocks are done in color A. I hope you picked up an extra skein! I ran short in mine and had to pick up the last two borders in another color (I chose Werewolf black).

For block 17, using color A, pick up 1 stitch at the bind-off edge of block 16 then 9 stitches of garter edge. Move on to pick up the 80 remaining stitches of the bind-off edge of block 15 (see graphic here). Knit the number of rows required in the pattern, then bind them off.

Block 18

Continuing with color A (Desert), pick up one stitch for each of the 114 remaining bind off stitches on block 16 then pick up 4 stitches along the garter stitch edge of block 17 (see graphic here). Knit the required number of rows in the pattern and bind off. Knit the number of rows required in the pattern, then bind them off.

Block 19

Block 19 is where things get a little tricky. We’re breaking with the log cabin pattern of this blanket that was built upon the right and the top side of each set of blocks. For the first time, stitches are picked up at the bottom. Make sure to read the instructions carefully as the stitches are now picked up from the left side of the blanket to the right side.

The Rockwell blanket - retro chic at its best.

Follow the direction of the arrow to pick up stitches from right to left for block 17 across block 16 then block 15.

Follow the direction of the arrow to pick up stitches for block 18 across block 16 then block 17.

Continuing with color A, pick up the first 13 cast-on stitches of block 1 (these are picked up the same way as bind-off stitches.) Then pick garter ridge side stitches of all the other blocks right to block 18. Pick up 20 stitches for block 2, 13 stitches for block 4, 7 stitches for block 6, 11 stitches for block 8, 3 stitches for block 10, 5 stitches for block 12, 8 stitches for block 14, 9 stitches for block 16, and 4 stitches for block 18 (see graphic here). You should have 93 stitches in total. Knit the number of rows required in the pattern, then bind them off.

Block 20

The last block!!! You’ll notice this last block is made along the left side of the blanket going from top to bottom. Continue using color A and starting at the right side edge of block 17, pick up 1 bind off stitch then pick up 4 stitches of the garter ridge edge. Continue to pick up one stitch for each garter ridge at the edges as follows: 3 stitches for block 15, 9 stitches for block 13, 7 stitches for block 11, 15 stitches for block 9, 11 stitches for block 7, 13 stitches for block 5, 50 stitches for block 3, 13 stitches for block 1, and 4 stitches for block 19 (see graphic here). You should now have 130 stitches. Knit the required number of rows in the pattern and bind off.

The big stretch before the finish!

Congratulations you made it to the end! And now you have a gorgeous new 1970s retro chic Rockwell blanket. All you need to do is weave in your ends. But before you get to that task it’s time for one last yoga stretch to relax from all your hard work and get your body ready to finish your blanket. The video below, from a series of stretches for knitters by Lion Brand Yarn, has the women sitting on the floor, but if that’s too difficult you can sit at the edge of a chair instead. Remember to be gentle with your stretching and never go to the point of pain. A bit of pull, yes, but no ouchies!

A short video by Lion Brand for yoga stretches that work on all of your upper body including your hands!

Now, weave in your ends. You’re done!

A quick note before I say goodbye

I’m so grateful that you knit along with me to make your very own log cabin style Rockwell blanket using Lion Brand Yarn Hue+Me super bulky wool. I hope you found the Lantern Moon Destiny Ebony needles helpful in carrying the weight of so many stitches in a more balanced way. I also hope the stretches I shared throughout this feature made knitting this bulky project a little more comfortable as your hands stitched their way to the finish line. One quick note before I go; I didn’t feel the need to block my Rockwell. I felt like the weight of the yarn did that for me, and I kind of like the rustic look it had without blocking. That’s all I have to share. Now, get cozied up under your new toasty and nostalgic ‘70s-inspired blanket, and begin dreaming of your next great knitting adventure!

Fiona Stevenson www.fionaknits.com

Follow the direction of the arrow to pick up stitches from right to left for block 19 across blocks 1, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 14, 16, and 18.

Follow the direction of the arrow to pick up stitches for block 20 across blocks 17, 15, 13, 11, 9, 7, 5, 3, 1, and 19.

Anne Caissie

Knit, Relax, Smile, Repeat! Uni Merino and Merino Mini

Cooler temperatures can take hold early on the north shore of Nova Scotia, Canada, especially when the rain and wind pick up. It's a good idea to get ahead of the cold by knitting hat, scarf, and mitten sets in late summer.

In this feature, I’m knitting with Universal Yarn Uni Merino and Uni Merino Mini. My knitting for the next few days will bring some color to the drab days of winter!

Universal Yarn Uni Merino and Uni Merino Mini (previously known as Curio), is a wonderfully soft and squishy superwash merino yarn. Being a 75% superwash merino 25% and nylon mix, it’s perfect for colorwork knitting in socks, fingerless gloves or hats.

This yarn comes in 50 amazing colors which makes the possibilities endless when planning your colorwork projects. It’s machine washable, so it’s perfect for gift knitting!

Uni Merino comes in 3.5oz [100g] balls offering 437yds [400m] and Uni Merino Mini comes in 25g and contains 109yds [99m]. This is perfect to add a pop of color to your project without having to have larger quantities of accent colors on hand.

I’m really looking forward to casting on a fun hat project using Uni Merino. I’m also sharing my experience knitting the West Wind Hat using Knitter’s Pride Cubics dpns

Universal Yarn Uni Merino and Uni Merino Mini (previously known as Curio) in Coffee Cake, Kingfisher, Duckling, and Bone colors.

Choosing UY Uni Merino colors to knit the West Wind Hat…hmmm

Coffee Cake for the contrast. This is a fantastic example of how one pattern can be made to look original by choosing your favorite colors.

The West Wind Hat is a lightweight hat that will fit snuggly to ward off the cool temperatures and the wind while I’m out on my daily walks. This hat is knit in the round and uses stranded knitting. The 2x2 ribbing is long to wear either folded double or not. Being able to fold it double will be helpful on those walks that get a little chilly! Now onto the first fun part! Picking the colors. The pattern shows the hat knitted up in Universal Yarn Uni Merino main color Koala and Uni Merino Mini contrasting colors Cascade, Duckling, Oriole and Pickle colorways. Although these are certainly lovely, I decided to make my version with main color Bone. I chose Kingfisher, Duckling, and

I knit up a quick gauge swatch and was able to get gauge with the needle size suggested in the pattern. Is it wrong for me to say that I don’t always swatch? Bad knitter! Because this was my first time using the Uni Merino and Uni Merino Mini yarn and as I’ll talk about in a couple of days, I’m also using new-to-me KNITTER’S PRIDE Cubic double pointed needles, I thought it wise to swatch!

I’m excited to cast on this hat! I’ve decided to use my go-to two-handed fair isle for the colorwork. Check it out!

The West Wind Hat is perfect for cool weather and the colorwork is exciting to knit.

Universal Yarn Uni Merino and Uni Merino Mini color selection for my West Wind Hat.

Because this was my first time using the Uni Merino I thought it wise to swatch! Look at that stitch definition.

The beautiful set of KNITTER’S PRIDE Cubic double pointed needles

No more yarn tangles!

Two-handed Fair Isle knitting

I absolutely love Fair Isle knitting. That’s the number one reason I chose the West Wind Hat pattern for this feature. Fair Isle knitting looks like magic to me. Even after all these years of knitting, I still am amazed every single time I see it in a garment.

Fair Isle knitting does come with its challenges though. One of those challenges is the constant tangling of the yarns in your work. In the past, I’d knit until the yarns were so tangled up that I didn’t have a choice but to put my work down and weave the two balls of yarn over and under until I got everything untangled. Not ideal when you’re on a knitting roll!

As I read through the West Wind Hat pattern I discovered that the colorwork consisted of only two colors in each round. This is ideal for my favorite technique for colorwork, twohanded Fair Isle knitting. Two-handed Fair Isle has you carry one yarn in each hand. You place each ball of yarn on either side of you; contrast color on the left and main color on the right. You’re knitting continental style with your left hand and English style with your right. You’ll never have to let go of your yarns nor will the yarns cross over one another so there won’t be any tangling! There are numerous tutorials available online that teach two-handed Fair Isle knitting technique

KNITTER’S PRIDE Cubic double pointed needles are beautiful to look at and they feel lovely in hand.

Not having to deal with the tangles while I knit allowed me to enjoy knitting with Uni Merino and Uni Merino Mini yarn and focus on some new tools! I am for the first time in my knitting life not using regular round-shaped needles! I’m testing out Knitter’s Pride Cubics for this project.

The back side of the Fair Isle work

I've added a fifth color to this project! Hello Peachskin!

Square knitting needles?

A skeptic's review of KNITTER’S PRIDE Cubics

I’ve been knitting for 50+ years. I learned to knit with a set of straight metal needles. Over the years I’ve tried out all kinds of different styles of needles; straight single points, fixed circular needles and interchangeable circular needles. Out of all the needles I’ve used I can honestly say that it never once crossed my mind that square, yes I said square needles, would become part of my knitting tool kit. In this feature I had the opportunity to test the KNITTER’S PRIDE Cubics dpns (double pointed needles).

Even though I’ve tried a whole host of different styles of needles, they all had one thing in common. They were round! So, when I was presented with the opportunity to test out

the KNITTER’S PRIDE Cubics dpns I must say I wasn’t 100% convinced I’d like them. I mean they are square!

I cast on to swatch for the West Wind Hat with a fair amount of skepticism. I wondered how my stitches would look. I also wondered how the needles would feel in my hands.

I was pleasantly surprised! These needles are not only beautiful to look at, they feel lovely in hand. They are made from laminated beechwood and I loved the way they gripped the yarn as I knit. They are perfect for those knitters who suffer from hand pain or arthritis. The dpns come in either 6” or 8” and range in size from 2.0mm up to 8.00mm.

I knit the entire hat using these needles and I must say that I am no longer a skeptic! The needles held my stitches throughout the project even when I threw my knitting into a bag to take along with me in the car. No dropped stitches at all! I felt more in control of my needles while focusing on the two-handed Fair Isle.

I’m convinced! I’ll be using these needles again for sure!

I hope you try this golden knitting combination: Universal Yarn Uni Merino and Uni Merino Mini, Knitter’s Pride Cubics dpns, and an exciting and colorful two-handed Fair Isle knitting technique, all perfect for cooler weather knitting. Enjoy!

Anne Caissie @3amknitter

I HEART Lion Brand Yarn Heartland The story of 3 hats and a cowl

I came across Lion Brand Yarn Heartland quite by chance. It was in September 2022 when I was considering yarn to knit a cowl and hat set for winter for a young lady who is involved in a vibrant career. I was looking for a soft easy-tocare-for acrylic yarn in a medium gray. Hhmmm. After touching and considering many acrylic yarns at the store, Heartland in Great Smoky Mountains colorway was it!

You might have experienced the moment when you are lovingly gifted a hand-knitted item to wear and good lord! It’s a color you would never wear or simply doesn’t look good on you! I’m mindful of making sure the color will be adored and the pattern will be as close as possible to what the recipient might like.

So I snoop around, I ask the boyfriend, the wife, the daughter, or whoever knows the recipient very well enough to give me the answers. So far it has always worked! So, while I’m at it, why not make two hats?

and a cowl. Since it’s ‘machine wash and dry’, it’s a no-fuss yarn.

Since I was exploring yarn that was new to me it was fitting to also try KNITTER’S PRIDE

LANTERN MOON Destiny knitting needles. They are very smooth to knit with and sweetened the experience.

Heartland is a worsted weight, sensationally soft, premium acrylic that comes in heathered and tweedy shades inspired by the natural beauty of the American landscape. The subtle shades of this yarn suggest landmarks like the Redwood Forest, the Everglades, and Yosemite National Park. Heartland is an easy-care yarn that is perfect for garments, blankets, and accessories. One ball holds 251yds perfect for a hat or two

The first hat I knitted was a twisted stripes pattern found on several sites. I found the stitch definition to be very good, which you can’t always predict beforehand on a yarn you’ve never tried before.

LBY Heartland in Great Smoky Mountains colorway is the recipient’s favorite color. It’s perfect for this hand-knit hat and cowl set.

The first hat I knitted was the Twisted Stripes pattern.

Lion Brand Yarn Heartland Simple Texture Slouch Hat. As all hats, it’s quick to knit up!

The pattern for the second hat is a free one too, Lion Brand Yarn Heartland Simple Texture Slouch Hat As with all hats, it’s quick to knit up, and it’s always interesting to see it in a different colorway than the one shown in the original pattern.

I adapted my version of the Cayuga Cowl pattern originally designed for a different yarn by removing 6 stitches from the pattern and the second twist at the bottom edge. It has kept me warm all winter, particularly during my walks.

Once I had finished my cowl, my young lady’s cowl and two hats, I was curious to see how the hat would knit up in one of my favorite colors – red. So, I used LBY Heartland in Redwood colorway and started a third hat. See it in the photos on this page!

My adventure continues, however. Whenever I make a hat I like to knit a matching scarf, cowl or small shawl, as you can guess from these photos. I already started a matching shawl for my red hat and I’m using both Lion Brand Yarn Heartland colorways, Great Smoky Mountains and Redwood in the same shawl knit up in easy garter stitch. See how the little matching shawl turned out in my editor's letter of this issue.

Lantern Moon Destiny Needles in ebony

Carla A. Canonico Publisher KNITmuch

I knit two cowls based on the Cayuga Cowl knit up in the very soft and easy-care Heartland yarn.

I was on a roll, curious to know what the hat would look like in Heartland Redwood colorway.

The completed twisted stripe hat, front and back, knit up in Lion Brand Yarn Heartland, Redwood colorway!

Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com

Standard Yarn Weight System

Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com

Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes

Standard Yarn Weight System

Standard Yarn Weight System

KNITmuch

Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes

Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes

Standard abbreviations & terms

alt = alternate approx = approximately

beg = begin(ning)

BO= bind off

CC = contrast color

ch = chain

cm = centimetre(s)

cn = cable needle

co = cast on

cont = continue, continuing

dc = double crochet

dec = decrease(s), decreasing

dpn = double-pointed needle(s)

foll = following

g = gram(s)

hdc = half double crochet

inc = increase(s), increasing

in(s) = inch(es)

k = knit

kf&b or kfb = knit into front and back of st (increase)

ktbl = knit through the back loop

k2tog = knit 2 sts tog (right-leaning decrease)

k3tog = knit 3 sts together (double right-leaning decrease)

m = marker

m = meter(s)

m1 = Make 1 stitch: pick up the horizontal strand between 2 stitches from front to back and knit it tbl (lifted increase)

MC = main color

mm = millimetre(s)

oz = ounce(s)

p = purl

p2tog = purl 2 sts tog (decrease)

patt = pattern

pfb = purl into front and back of stitch (increase)

pm = place marker

psso = pass slipped stitch over

RS = right side

rem = remain(ing)

rep = repeat

rev = reverse

rnd = round

sc = single crochet

sl = slip

* GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern.

*** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse of regular hook sizing.

This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at: YarnStandards.com

skp = slip one st, knit next st, pass slipped st over knit st (dec)

ssk = slip, slip, knit: slip 2 sts knitwise, 1 at a time, insert left-hand needle into front of both sts and knit them tog (left-leaning decrease)

* GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

* GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern.

** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern.

*** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse of regular hook sizing.

sssk = slip next three stitches individually, knitwise. Insert tip of left needle from front to back into the fronts of these three stitches and knit them together (double left-leaning decrease)

st(s) = stitch(es)

*** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse of regular hook sizing.

St st = stocking stitch

tbl = through back loop

This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at: YarnStandards.com

This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at: YarnStandards.com

tog = together

tr = treble crochet

WS = wrong side

yo = yarn over