The Perfect Heel Quest!
5 ways to knit your heel !
Weaving a cover-up perfect for summer fun!
Knit Together: Measuring Tension
Cotton Supreme Speckles: knitting hat & tote set
How to adapt a knitting pattern for a different yarn
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ART DIRECTOR
Carla A. Canonico Carla@KNITmuch.com
ADVERTISING SALES
John De Fusco John@KNITmuch.com
PUBLISHER
A Needle Pulling Thread
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Carla A. Canonico, John De Fusco, Contributors BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS
Cindy O'Malley cindooknits.blogspot.com
Cristina Simionovici
Cynthia MacDougall ktogdesign@gmail.com
GRAPHIC DESIGN
Carla A. Canonico Carla@KNITmuch.com
Sondra Armas Sondra@KNITmuch.com
SOCIAL MEDIA and WEB Maria Corina Guillen
Joaquin Rojas
WEBSITE / BLOG : KNITmuch.com
Like us on Facebook : KNITmuch
Follow us on Twitter : @KNITmuchmag
WHERE TO GET YOUR COPY
KNITmuch is a quarterly eMagazine published by A Needle Pulling Thread. It is available free for personal use online at KNITmuch.com
A limited number of printed copies of KNITmuch are available for purchase at select yarn shops and specialty stores. Ask for it at your local shop. KNITmuch is not available by subscription.
YARN SHOPS
If you are interested in carrying KNITmuch in your store, please email John@KNITmuch.com
EDITORIAL
Bloggers, designers, and other contributors who would like to be considered for future issues please email Carla@KNITmuch.com with a brief description of your work and your proposed project.
©2024 KNITmuch. All rights reserved. Issue 19. ISSN 2368-5913
No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.
All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are for private, non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted material owned by their respective creators or owners.
...to K, is to
6 Knit Together - Measuring Tension
10
Knowing when to knit a swatch [free pattern]
11 How to adapt a knitting pattern for a different yarn
12 Knitting the back of the Blissful Tee – Placing the openwork [free pattern]
12 Knitting the front of a t-shirt to match the back – Making stripes work
14
3 needle bind off + mattress stitch = finish a knitted t-shirt
16 The Perfect Heel Quest | knitted socks with a heel flap and no gusset
18 The Perfect Heel Quest | knitted socks with wrap and turn short rows heel
19 The Perfect Heel Quest | Cat Bordhi’s Sweet Tomato Heel
21 The Perfect Heel Quest | the Fleegle Heel
23 The Perfect Heel Quest | Fish Lips Kiss Heel
26 Hot fun in the summertime with cool cotton
28
30
Knitting swatches with Cotton Supreme Speckles | French Knitting with DK
Knitting a sun hat that is cool and breezy
33 Knitting a tote to match the knitted sun hat
36
Weaving a cover-up (Ruana) perfect for summer fun!
Welcome to another delightful issue of our beloved knitting magazine, where we weave together the threads of inspiration, technique, and creativity. In this edition, we embark on a journey that celebrates the artistry of knitting while embracing the joys of summer crafting. Our feature article, "Knit TogetherMeasuring Tension," serves as the foundation for this issue, reminding us of the importance of understanding and managing tension in our knitting projects. Learn when to knit a swatch, and enjoy several complimentary patterns that put this knowledge into practice, ensuring your projects are a perfect fit every time.
For those adventurous souls seeking to adapt patterns to different yarns, our guide on "How to Adapt a Knitting Pattern for a Different Yarn" will be your trusted companion. And if you've been looking for a pattern for a knitted tee, dive into Cristina Simionovici’s article that guides you through the intricacies of knitting the back and front, making stripes work seamlessly.
that polished, professional look. And for sock enthusiasts, join us on "The Perfect Heel Quest," where we explore various heel styles, from classic heel flaps to innovative techniques like Cat Bordhi’s Sweet Tomato Heel, the Fleegle Heel, and the Fish Lips Kiss Heel.
As the temperature rises, indulge in "Hot Fun in the Summertime with Cool Cotton." Explore the wonders of knitting with Cotton Supreme Speckles and French knitting with DK, and then turn your needles to a breezy sun hat and a matching tote for the ultimate summer ensemble!
For those seeking a bit of bohemian flair, immerse yourself in the process of weaving a cover-up, also called a Ruana, perfect for summer fun – a versatile piece that effortlessly transitions from beach to brunch.
Join us in celebrating the upcoming warmth of summer with these exciting projects and informative articles. Let your creativity flourish and your needles dance!
Discover the art of finishing with the “3 Needle Bind Off + Mattress Stitch," a technique that will give your knitted t-shirts
Happy Knitting,
Cheerfully,
Cynthia MacDougall Knit Together Design Studio
PO Box 562 Stn Main
Orillia, ON L3V 6K2
ktogdesign@gmail.com
ravelry name: macknitnow
You hear it time after time: tension in knitting is important. Tension is important, but it is only important if a knitter wants a knitted item to fit well – and who doesn’t want that?
I think the reason a lot of knitters dislike tension is because it requires additional tools and some use of mathematics. However, a ruler and pins are musthaves in every knitter’s tool kit, so that shouldn’t be an issue. The math is simple math, not calculus, so that shouldn’t be a concern, either.
Simply stated, the tension determines how closely the finished garment will match the pattern to the designer’s original creation. If the knitter’s tension differs from the designer’s plan, then the knitter’s end result will vary from the original design.
Normally, pattern tension is given over four inches, or ten centimetres. In order to get accurate measurements, it is better to knit the tension swatch wider than this, as edge stitches can skew the results, and some stitch patterns, like stocking stitch, have a tendency to curl. Adding a border to encourage the swatch to lay flat makes it easier to do the measuring later. Sometimes it is a good idea to measure tension in several places and determine the average tension. A larger swatch makes it possible to do this.
Because tension can differ from one needle style to another, wherever possible, use the same style of needle to make your tension swatch as you will use to make the garment. If you will be knitting on double pointed needles, make a circular swatch using those needles; if you are going to use bamboo needles to make a sweater, use bamboo needles to make the tension swatch.
The tools needed to measure tension accurately are very basic: two pins and a ruler with either inch or centimetre markings on it. There are specialty pins made that are long, with blunt tips and large, flat heads, but standard sewing pins, T-pins, or even tapestry needles will do the job.
Most patterns state tension in the form of the number of stitches (and sometimes rows) to four inches or ten centimetres. Fortunately, ten centimetres and four inches are almost an exact match, which gives Canadians (and Americans who are familiar with the metric system) the advantage of being able to use either scale on the ruler for measuring.
Stitch tension is often more important than row tension, however there are times when row tension is just as, or even more, important. For example, a sweater knitted from side-to-side would require close attention to row tension. In the following examples, the word “rows” can be substituted for “stitches”. Remember that some patterns require accurate tensions for both stitches and rows. This will require measuring a swatch in both directions and it may be necessary to make a decision if either the row tension or the stitch tension won’t work up exactly to the pattern tension.
There are two ways to measure tension: the first works well with a ruler that measures in either inches or centimetres. Lay the tension swatch on a flat surface and mark off the distance (again, usually four inches or ten centimetres) on the knitted fabric with pins, then count the number of stitches – and partial stitches – in between the pins. When measuring tension on a stocking stitch fabric, pay attention to the “V”s: each stitch is a full
“V”, and if the measurement contains a half “V” (a “\” or a “/”), include that half stitch in the stitch count. It may even be necessary to count one-quarter or threequarters of a stitch. See sample 1. If the number of stitches between the pins is the same as the number of stitches stated in the pattern’s tension, congratulations! Your tension is perfect. If the number of stitches between the measurement is fewer than what is mentioned in the pattern, your tension is too loose, and your garment will turn out larger than desired, unless you keep sampling. If there are more stitches between the pins, your tension is too tight, and your garment will be smaller than planned. See sample 2. To correct tension that is too loose, choose the next smaller size of needle, knit another swatch, and measure these results. It may be necessary to go down two or even more needle sizes. If the tension is too tight, repeat the process using the next size larger needle. It may take several tries to get the tension perfect, but it is worth the effort to get it right.
The other way to measure tension works well with the metric side of the ruler. I like to use it in cases where I can choose to work the pattern in a different size if my tension is not quite accurate. To follow this method, lay the tension swatch on a flat surface and place a pin between two stitches. Count across the number of stitches stated in the pattern’s tension, and place the second pin between that stitch and the next one. Lay the ruler down and measure the distance between the two pins.
This is a good time to explain the advantage of measuring by ten centimetres: each centimetres has ten “tick marks” (millimetres) on the scale, and 10 centimetres has 100 millimetres. This makes it very easy to make calculations based on percentages. If the number of stitches measures 9.5 centimetres (95 millimetres), as in the pink sample in the photo, you know your tension is short by five percent. (95 out of 100) At this point, take a calculator and multiply the finished size you planned to make by 95%. The result is the finished size that your garment will be using the
same needles and yarn used to make your swatch – in this case, 38 inches. See sample 3. If the number of stitches measures more than ten centimetres (e.g., if your stitches measured 103 millimetres), multiply the finished measurement of the sweater by 1.03 to find out the size of your finished sweater. In this case, you might want to work a smaller size to have the garment come out the size you desire.
Tension not only affects fit, it also affects yarn yardage. Patterns usually over estimate the amount of yarn needed to make a specific size, but, if the knitter’s tension varies too far from the pattern tension, additional yarn may be required. To measure tension on garter stitch, place the pins as described above, and count the number of "bumps" between the pins. Use either the upper bumps “ ”, or the lower bumps “ ”, not both. See sample 4.
Sometimes it is not practical to make a large tension swatch. In such cases, measure one inch worth of stitches (including any fractions of a stitch) and multiply it by four to get the number of stitches to four inches. Again, it may be more practical to use the metric side of the ruler: measure the number of stitches in five centimetres and multiply it by two to get the number of stitches in ten centimetres. Just remember that fractions of a stitch are even more important in this method, and that the results might not be 100 percent accurate. There are times when tension is not as important for fit. Projects such as shawls, hats, and scarves might fit just fine if the tension is not quite perfect. Who is going to worry if a scarf is 8in/20cm wide or if it is 7¾in/19.5cm wide? But, when a garment has to fit, the best results will happen if careful attention is paid to getting the correct tension.
Some knitters say that they don’t like to make tension swatches because it uses up valuable knitting time, however, a lot more valuable knitting time is wasted by making garments that don’t fit. I consider the time spent making tension swatches as time well spent. It gives me a chance to work with the yarn and learn its qualities, and I get the opportunity to make sure that the finished garment is going to fit me or whoever will wear it. z
The pattern for sample 3 calls for 22 sts to 10cm, however 22sts on our sample measures only 9.5cm. A pattern with a finished measurement of 40in/100cm would work up to 38in/95cm at this tension. In this case, it might be acceptable to make the next size larger, working to the tension of the sample, or the knitter might choose to make it this size and have a little less ease in the garment.
Photos this page by
Cynthia MacDougall
Spellbound Scarf Nancy Lekx
Inspired by Textures
Tweedy Cabled Poncho Nancy Lekx
One of the relatively new yarns available for knitting is the UNIVERSAL YARN Filly. It’s a fine self-striping sock yarn with the perfect content for warmer days. It’s made up of 46% cotton, 33% superwash fine merino wool, 12% polyamide, and 9% PBT. It has good yardage too – 492yds [450m] in a 100g skein.
The self-shadowing colorway of Kite, my chosen color, features an array of various blue, lilac, aqua and pink hues. I’m trying out Filly with KNITTER'S PRIDE Mindful 80cm (32") Fixed Circular Lace Knitting Needle - 2.75mm (US 2).
I found a free knitting pattern that I like a lot, the Blissful Tee pattern by UNIVERSAL YARN. The pattern requires a different yarn, therefore my challenges for this project are to:
• use the self-striping yarn with open work, and
• adjust the pattern using Filly yarn and my gauge. I need to make a swatch!
Using US 2 [2.75mm] KNITTER'S PRIDE Mindful needles, I casted on and started the swatch. The fabric will be a little bit airier using larger needles. I need to see how the open work pattern will look when using the selfstriping yarn!
I worked the swatch with three things in mind:
1. I worked in stockinette enough to be able to measure my gauge and could not wait to start the open work stitch pattern.
2. I worked a few rows of ribbing to see if I needed to switch to smaller needles for the ribbing.
3. I finished the swatch, soaked it in warm water and let it dry on a flat surface.
Doesn’t the open work stitch look great in the multicolor yarn?
Next, I’ll have to decide on the pattern adjustments.
Let's adapt the pattern Blissful Tee designed by the UNIVERSAL YARN Design Team and getting to work on it.
Because the pattern is written for a different yarn, I’ll compare the gauges and decide which size of the pattern will suit me best. The number of rows in the pattern gauge is less likely to impact a lot since there’s very little shaping around the neckline. But the number of stitches will decide the fit of the garment. My stockinette gauge has 29 stitches in 4”, and the one recommended in the pattern is 24 stitches in 4”. 21.7 * 29/4 = 157 stitches.
The pattern states that there is an ease of 4-6”. I can take that into account. My usual size is medium, so first I'll check how many stitches are required for a size M (medium) following the pattern.
I can reduce the positive ease. If the total positive ease is 6”, I can reduce up to 3” for the front and the same for the back:
(21.7-3) * 29/4 = 135 stitches.
The pattern recommends 130 stitches for size M (medium) and 142 stitches for size L (large).
I decided to eliminate the positive ease and follow the instructions for size M (medium).
I casted on 130 stitches. Based on my swatch, I can cast on and make my 1/1 rib with the same size needles.
I'll have to find a sharp color change in the yarn and use it as a guide for the beginning of my cast on. I want the back and the front to have the stripes of color matching as closely as possible.
I started with the back, as I wanted to see how well my calculation will work out.
I casted on 130 stitches and started the 1 by 1 rib.
To help me keep track of the number of rows worked, I carry along a loop of cotton yarn. This way I can make sure the front and the back are the same length.
The alternating colors keep the stockinette part of the knitting interesting.
For the length of the back of the t-shirt and the armhole, I’ll measure my work and follow the pattern’s schematic. The schematic is on the last page of the Blissful Tee pattern.
The openwork is placed above the beginning of the armhole, so I marked the armhole opening and continued following the instructions.
The openwork part is fun, the color changes don’t interfere with the lace pattern; which makes it more interesting.
I’ve now finished the back, and I left the live stitches for the shoulders on a cord. I’m happy with the result.
It’s time to start the front. I need to find the same color change that I marked when I casted on for the back, then I’ll cast the same number of stitches as for the back and follow the pattern. The only difference will be the neckline shaping.
With the experience I gained while knitting the back, matching the colors around the neckline is easier.
Because I used one ball of the Filly Sock Yarn for the back, I know another ball will be enough for the front.
The front and the back are now done. The color changes match better than expected.
I’ve placed the shoulder stitches for both front and back on the needles and using a three needle bind off, I’ll complete the shoulder seams first.
The next step is seaming the side seams.
Starting at the bottom of the work, I use the mattress stitch to close the sides. The colors match quite nicely. Starting with the same color change for the front and back worked well!
Now that the side seams are finished, it’s time to pick up stitches for the neckline and the sleeves. I pick up stitches around the neckline and knit around a 1/1 rib.
The armholes are also finished in the round after picking up stitches and knitting a 1/1 rib for 1½”.
The project is finished!
When I try the top on, I find there’s no positive ease, but it fits me well. Now I’ll wash it with Soak wash and lay it flat to dry.
It was so much fun knitting up the Blissful Tee, I used UNIVERSAL YARN Filly, KNITTER'S PRIDE
Mindful 80cm (32") Fixed Circular Lace Knitting Needle - 2.75mm (US 2) and Soak Wild Mint wash
On a nice spring or cooler summer day, I can wear my new top and enjoy the compliments.
Cristina Simionovici
CLICK on the cart to purchase the pattern!
Welcome to Thoughtful Soles Series by Lorraine Thompson! This is a zany collection of knitted sock patterns to tickle your funny bone every time you wear them.
I like wearing hand-knitted socks from fall to spring and in this feature I’ll tell you the story of my quest to knit the perfect sock heel using UNIVERSAL YARN Zesty Sock #1895 Yarn - 100g - 1 Super Fine - 400m (437yds). Zesty Sock yarn is made of 75% superwash merino for warmth and softness and 25% nylon for more durability. Here, I'm looking at various ways to knit the heel using the free Basic Toe-up Socks Pattern
I chose the Iceberg colorway to work well with my shoes and boots. My supplies arrived!
I knitted a swatch and had to adjust my knitting needles, going down to a different size than the one recommended in the pattern, to get the gauge for the socks.
KNITTER'S PRIDE Karbonz 32" [80cm] Fixed Circular Knitting Needle US1 [2.25mm]
I like knitting socks, they make a small, portable knitting project that I can carry around and work on while travelling or waiting.
I like working my socks toe-up.
I like working my socks two at a time, on circular needles, this way avoiding the second sock syndrome. There are other reasons why I like to knit two socks at a time: my tension changes based on mood, how tired I am or the humidity of my surroundings. Working the two socks at the same time helps me make the best matching pair I can knit.
But I don’t like it if the socks are too wide, too tight, or create fabric bulges that can bother me while wearing them. So, I’ll start a quest to find the bestfitting toe-up sock for myself.
Photos by Cristina SimionoviciI’ll use the basic toe-up sock pattern as the baseline, all my socks will start with the same toe, will have the same foot/instep length up to the base of my ankle hinge, and will have the same length of the foot and the cuff. What will be different? The heel!
I’ll try the following heels:
• Basic heel with a heel flap (no gusset) – the one from the basic toe-up sock pattern
• Wrap and turn short row heel
• Cat Bordhi’s Sweet Tomato heel
• The Fleegle heel
• Sox Terapist’s Fish Lips Kiss heel
Different methods of turning the heel can change the size and the fit of the socks. All these socks will be knitted with the same yarn, same needles, and the same number of stitches and I’ll be able to compare the heels and decide which one is the best one for me.
Note: Another heel may be the perfect one for someone else.
I started with my baseline, the basic toe-up sock.
I knitted the toe following the pattern instructions until I reached the required 60 stitches, 30 stitches for the sole and 30 stitches for the instep.
I continued following the pattern for the foot and the heel.
I knitted the heel flap, turned the heel following the instructions and knitted the leg and the cuff. The sock is ready, it has a good fit, rather tight around the ankle.
The completed basic toe-up sock
The next sock I’m knitting has a traditional Wrap and Turn short rows heel.
For starting all my socks, I use Judy’s Magic Cast On. There are some instructions in the basic toeup sock pattern, and you can find a lot of videos describing this cast on, besides the tutorial mentioned above.
After the toe, I continued knitting in the round on the 60 stitches up to the same length of the sock I worked: 7½”.
I worked back and forth to complete the heel.
The math for a classic wrap and turn short row heel is simple. Half of the stitches are left to rest on one of the needles or a flexible cord while the wrap and turn (W&T) short rows heel is worked on the other half.
My sock has 60 stitches, so I worked my short row heel on 30 stitches.
l worked the first part of the heel, the decrease part, until I had one-third of the stitches, which means 30 stitches divided by 3 = 10 stitches, left in the middle, unwrapped.
Step-by-step instructions for the 30 stitches of the heel:
First part of the heel (decrease)
Row 1: Knit to 1 stitch before the end of the heel, wrap and turn. For the wrap and turn: slide the first stitch on the left needle to the right needle (do not insert the needle as if to knit!), bring the yarn to the front of your work, slide the stitch back from the right needle to the left needle and bring the yarn to the back of the work. The wrap is done. Now it’s time to turn. Turn your work and continue.
Row 2: Purl to 1 stitch before the wrapped stitch, wrap and turn.
Row 3: Knit to 1 stitch before the wrapped stitch, wrap and turn.
Row 4: Purl to 1 stitch before the wrapped stitch, wrap and turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you have 10 stitches unwrapped in the middle.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all wrapped stitches are worked. There are excellent step-by-step instructions on YouTube, one example this one, where you can find all the techniques and tips for achieving a good short row heel.
Once the heel was completed, I continued with the leg and cuff. The foot of the sock is shorter than the one I knitted; it also feels tighter around the heel and ankle once I try it on.
It will be good for someone with slim ankles, but it is not very comfortable for me.
Cat Bordhi was the magician of the sock world. She invented new constructions of the sock, added her humor and fearless approach to sock design and gave new pathways in sock constructions.
The sweet tomato heel is a smooth heel, created with short rows but instead of using the increase and decrease sections of the heel Cat Bordhi teaches us how to create “wedges” on the heel. Her wonderful tutorial is on YouTube and teaches us all there is to know about this heel.
I cast on using the wonderful Judy’s Magic Cast On, I work my sock up to the point where my foot flexes, which is also approximately the highest point of my sole arch and the recommended 7½” in the basic toe-up sock pattern. At this point, I’m ready to start the heel.
Both, the Sweet Tomato heel and the Wrap and Turn Short Rows heel can be used on both toe-up or cuff down socks. The construction depends on the number of stitches and not the direction in which the sock is knitted.
The Sweet Tomato Heel is worked on two-thirds of the total number of stitches, for me this will be 60:3 * 2 = 40 stitches.
I must move 10 stitches from the beginning of the instep on the heel needle, and the last 10 stitches of the instep on the heel needle. Now I have 40 stitches on the heel needle and the middle 20 stitches of the instep on the instep needle.
The “wedge” of the heel is worked only on the heel needle, back and forth and is followed by knitting in the round to close the gaps.
Follow Cat Bordhi’s detailed and humorous tutorial to understand the construction.
Row 1: Knit up to the last 2 stitches, turn your work, no wrap is necessary.
Row 2: Purl up to the last 2 stitches, turn your work, no wrap required.
Row 3: Knit up to 2 stitches before the gap created by the previous turn.
Row 4: Purl up to 2 stitches before the gap created by the previous turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you have 12 stitches left in the middle between gaps:
Next round (knitted in the round) – close the gaps: Knit 9 stitches.
The 10th stitch is before the gap. Identify the stitch under the 10th stitch (the mother stitch) and lift it onto the needle. Knit the tenth stitch together with the lifted stitch from the previous row (the mother stitch).
*Knit 1 stitch (on the low side of the gap). Lift the previous row stitch on the needle and knit the next stitch together with the lifted mother stitch**.
Repeat from * to ** until all gaps are closed. Knit across the instep stitches up to the first gap.
*Knit the stitch on the lower side of the gap. Lift the mother stitch onto the left needle and knit it together with the next stitch.**
Repeat from * to ** until all gaps are closed.
The picture shows the first wedge, just before knitting the round to close the gaps. The marker shows the row where the wedge started.
I knitted the wedge 2 times more and continued with the leg and the cuff.
The Knitter’s Pride Karbonz circular needles are perfect for this task. The cable is smooth and does not tangle during the many turns or while switching from knitting in the round to knitting flat. As the cable is flexible it does not stretch the edge stitches too much!
And here’s the finished sock!
The ankle section is wider than the other socks and the heel is deep and comfortable (…maybe a little too deep?). These will be comfortable socks around the house on a cold winter day.
My next sock will follow the rules: the same toe, same foot length until starting the heel, but this time I’m using the instructions for the Fleegle Heel, a heel designed for toe-up socks.
The basic instructions for the Fleegle Heel were published back in 2006, but I only came across them recently. The instructions were published on and you can still find it there.
The construction of the Fleegle heel requires a gusset but the math used is simple and intuitive.
I started my toe-up sock using Judy’s Magic Cast
On on 12 stitches for the instep and 12 stitches for the sole (24 stitches), increased the tow up to 60 stitches and knitted the foot up to the point where the ankle joint connects the leg to the foot (or as recommended in the basic toe-up pattern about 7½").
These are toe-up socks so I can try them on while I knit.
To make sure that all my socks have the same foot length I carry a contrasting yarn in the middle of the “heel needle” to count my rows easily - the orange yarn visible in the work-inprogress pictures.
I must start the gusset following the Fleegle heel instructions.
Gusset
The gusset is knitted in the round. When I start the gusset, I have 30 stitches on the instep needle and 30 stitches on the heel needle. My round starts with the instep needle.
*Knit across the instep needle (30 stitches)
On the heel needle:
Knit 2 stitches, make 1 stitch, knit up to the last 2 stitches, make 1 stitch, knit 2 stitches** (2 stitches increased on the heel needle).
Repeat from * to ** until there are 58 stitches on the heel needle: 2 stitches less than the original total number of stitches of my sock before starting the gusset.
Heel turn
The heel turn is achieved with short rows.
I marked the center of my stitches for the heel. I have 29 stitches on each side of the yarn that marks the center.
Knit to 2 stitches beyond the center. k2tog, k1, turn.
Slip 1 purlwise. Purl to 2 stitches beyond the center, SSP, p1, turn.
* Slip 1 purlwise, knit to the gap, knit 2 stitches together (knit the stitch before the gap and the one after the gap together). Knit 1. Turn work.
Slip 1 purlwise, purl to the gap, purl the stitch before and the one after the gap together. Purl 1.**
Repeat from * to ** until one stitch left beyond the gap on each side of the heel needle.
With the heel turn completed, I knit across the heel stitches, close the gap at the end of the heel needle by knitting two stitches together (one from each side of the gap), continue across the instep stitches and when I reach the next gap (at the beginning of the heel needle)
I will do an SSK (slip, slip, knit) with the two stitches on the sides of the gap. All gaps are now closed, and I continue decreasing two times at the beginning and end of the heel needle until I have 30 stitches on the heel needle.
I’m back to my 60 stitches of the sock, and I can complete the leg and the cuff.
The look of the Fleegle heel is elegant and sleek, the gusset provides room around the ankle but there’s no fabric in excess.
I try it on, and it feels perfect.
Now I’m trying my last heel, the Fish Lips Kiss Heel provided by SoxTherapist on Ravelry.
First the routine part: I cast on using Judy’s Magic Cast On, increase for the toe until I reach my total number of 60 stitches and knit the 7½" for the foot; this brings my sock length to the ankle hinge, the point where my foot and my leg are connected.
And now it is time to start the heel.
The construction of the Fish Lips Kiss heel is based on short rows, making it a heel for both toe-up and cuff-down socks.
The pattern, full of useful information, is available on Ravelry.
Two videos on YouTube demystify the creation of a twin stitch and the techniques of Twin Stich Knit and Twin Stich Purl
The Fish Lips Kiss Heel for my socks is worked on the heel needle, over 30 stitches.
On the decrease section, I will work shorter rows until I have 10 stitches (1/3 of the heel stitches) remaining in center of the heel.
In the increase section, I will start with the 10 center stitches and continue following the Fish Lips Kiss pattern until I am ready to resume knitting in the round on all 60 stitches.
The Fish Kiss Lips heel is completed: Now I must knit the leg, a length of 6”.
toe-up Fleegle heel
The cuff is knitted in a 2 x 2 rib for 2”. For all socks, I used Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off (JSSBO) for 2 x 2 rib.
Now that I finished all my socks with different heels, I blocked all of them and noticed the following:
The Feegle heel sock is taller than the other socks. The gusset added not only extra width around the ankle but also additional height to the sock.
The Sweet Tomato heel sock has a wide ankle. It can be adjusted with fewer short rows on each wedge.
The best fit for me is the Fleegle Heel sock, maybe because I have wider ankles. For narrower feet and ankles, the Fish Lips Kiss sock will be a very good fit.
And here are all the different heels tested in this quest for the best heel fit for me and the rankings.
Have fun experimenting with UNIVERSAL YARN Zesty Sock and KNITTER'S PRIDE Karbonz 32" [80cm] Fixed Circular Knitting Needle US1 [2.25mm] and finding your perfect heel!
toe-up Fish Lips Kiss heel
Welcome to another article on KNITmuch, where I’m working with UNIVERSAL YARN Cotton Supreme Speckles. This sumptuous, worsted weight 100% cotton is incredibly soft and perfect for summer garments and accessories. To complement the brilliant pops of color that decorate the creamy base, I’m also using a solid color of Cotton Supreme.
But that’s not all, because I’m knitting, crocheting, corking, and weaving, and washing everything in Soak, a rinse-free laundry product that is as gentle on your skin as it is on your clothes.
Cotton Supreme Speckles is available in 6 different colors all with whimsical names like
Popsicle and Festival of which I’m using Fruit Punch. The solid color version, Cotton Supreme is available in 45 different colors, but I’m using Cotton Supreme DK in Lavender, which is one of 22 solid colors
Cotton Supreme Speckles is classified as a Worsted Weight yarn, however, I’m more inclined to call it an Aran Weight. Each 3.5oz [100g] skein contains 180yds [164m] of cottony softness. The recommended gauge is 17sts x 23rows = 4” [10cm] using a US8 [5mm] needle, which is why I consider it to be an Aran Weight. Cotton Supreme DK contains 230yds [210m] in a 3.5oz [100g] skein with a recommended gauge of 21sts x 28rows = 4” [10cm] using a US6 [4mm] needle and is just as soft as its bigger cousin.
I have a bit of a confession to make. When I ordered the Lavender solid color, I intended to order Cotton Supreme, but I made a typo in the stock number. When Cotton Supreme DK arrived, I thought to myself “Oh No!”, but it turned out to be the better choice for my projects.
I mentioned that I’ll be corking, aka French Knitting. When I get together with my knitting pals, we all refer to it as corking so I don’t know when it became known as French Knitting. When we were kids, many of us had homemade versions. Dad would hammer in finishing nails on the top of an empty thread spool and Mom would contribute leftover yarn. That was my first one until I got a real corker in my Christmas stocking.
I use Soak regularly to launder my knitwear. It’s a great product for hand or machine washing your knitwear or delicate fabrics. I’m using one of my favorite scents, Lacey.
Cotton Supreme is machine washable in warm and tumble dry, making this yarn perfect for a cottony soft baby blanket, however, these projects are not for babies… well, maybe a beach babe as grownups deserve cottony softness as well.
The theme is beachwear as well as tubes and cords -- all kinds of tubes and cords in both knitting, crocheting, and corking. Here's a sneak peek as to what’s in store
Who’s that lovely lady off in the distance looking like she’s headed for the beach or pool? That’s DeeDee the mannequin. If you can’t quite make out what she’s wearing, you’ll have to wait until the last part of the feature for a close-up view. Read on.
But first, I need to put both the yarn and corker to the test. I hope you’ll join me as I knit some swatches with UNIVERSAL YARN Cotton Supreme Speckles and learn how to cork again.
I mentioned that Cotton Supreme Speckles is rated as a worsted-weight yarn, but I consider it more of an Aran weight based on the recommended gauge. I’ll put that to the test, however, my main objective is to determine what needle size I’ll use for my projects. I won’t actually be knitting with Cotton Supreme DK, at least not in the conventional sense. I’ll be using this yarn for embellishing my projects, including using the French Knitter for corking.
As mentioned, the recommended gauge for Cotton Supreme Speckles is 17sts x 23rows = 4” [10cm] using a US8 [5mm] needle. I’ll begin there.
My results yielded 18sts and 23rows to 4” [10cm] after blocking, and the fabric was luxuriously soft with wonderful drape. A garment made with this would be like wearing pijamas.
My experience with 100% cotton knitwear is that it tends to go from square to rectangular unless blocked every time. I often go down a needle size when knitting with cotton to help keep its shape. So, I’m using a US7 [4.5mm] needle for my next swatch.
This time, my results are 19sts x 25rows to 4” [10cm] after blocking. It’s still incredibly soft but I prefer the fabric at this gauge, which is closer to a worsted weight gauge. If I were to knit a sweater with this yarn, I would use a US7 [4.5mm] needle. Based on my results, I guess it is a worsted weight, not an Aran weight.
Now for playtime. I made the following swatch using two different needle sizes; a US6 [4mm] and a US5 [3.75mm] in both stocking stitch and in an open mesh pattern.
I didn’t increase the number of stitches on my swatch from that of my previous two swatches, which is why my gauge numbers are over 1” and 2” instead of 4”. My results are as follows:
US 6 [4mm] = 5.5sts x 7.25rows in stocking stitch
US 5 [3.75mm] = 10.75sts x 15rows in stocking stitch.
The results were very similar, but the tell for me was the mesh. Based on my chosen projects, I’ll use the US5 [3.75mm] as the fabric seems denser. Now I can’t wait to get started, but first, I need to relearn corking.
It comes with two different sets of pegs; one set of 6 for thicker yarns and another set of 12 for thinner yarns. Since I’ll be using a DK weight yarn which is medium weight, I opted to use 6 of the thinner pegs.
I started off with scrap yarn to relearn the technique. I found the hook that comes with the French Knitter to be too pointy as it kept splitting the plies of my yarn. I then went into my knitting tool kit and found a small cable needle that worked better for me. Before long, I was 7 years old again and corking away. It’s amazing how quick and easy it is. Instead of using DPN’s and knitting I-cords, I can use the corker.
Now that I’ve relearned corking and determined my needle size, it’s time to get started on my projects.
Based on the playtime test swatch, I’ve opted to go with a denser gauge to give the hat more body. The hat is knit with Cotton Supreme Speckles in Fruit Punch and embellished with Cotton Supreme DK in Lavender.
The Tubular Cast on is often used in two-color brioche and double knitting, and is also a great technique for top-down socks. It can be done in the round, but since I intend to insert a wire into the tube, I’ll be working flat using a provisional cast on with scrap yarn. materials yarn
• 2 - 3.5oz [100g] skeins of Cotton Supreme Speckles in Fruit Punch
• scrap yarn for the provisional cast on needles
• 1 - 32” US5 [3.75mm] circular needle for magic loop or double pointed needles or 2 circulars and a similar sized crochet hook for the provisional cast on gauge 22sts = 4” in stocking stitch (approximately)
abbreviations
K = Knit
P = Purl
St(s) = Stitch(es)
K2tog = Knit 2 stitches together
Inc = Increase
Dec = Decrease
Rep = Repeat
Rnd = Round
Sl = Slip stitch purl-wise.
Slwyf = Slip stitch purl-wise with yarn in front.
Sl YO = Slip the YO stitch.
M1 = Make 1 stitch by picking up the bar between the two stitches and knitting it through the back loop.
RH = Right hand needle.
LH = Left Hand needle.
PM = Place Marker.
YO = Yarn Over, bring yarn to front of work and knit the next stitch.
DYO = Double Yarn Over, bring yarn to front of the work, wrap it over the RH needle, bring back to the front of work and knit the next stitch.
Using scrap yarn, circular needle and a crochet hook, chain 3 sts then proceed with a crochet cast on for 91sts, then chain 3 or 4 more times.
Row 1: With Cotton Supreme Speckles and leaving a lengthy tail, knit across all sts and turn.
Row 2: *P1, m1, repeat from * to last st, P1. (181sts)
Row 3: *K1, slwyf, repeat from * to last st, K1.
Row 4: *Slwyf, p1, repeat from * to last st, Sl1.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 once more.
Join in the round for the brim
Rnd 1: Slip the last st from the RH needle onto the LH needle and K2tog, knit to end of round and PM. (180sts)
Rnd 2: *YO, k2tog, k12, k2tog, yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. (10sts dec = 170sts)
Rnd 3: Knit.
Rnd 4: *YO, k2tog, k11, k2tog, yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. (10sts dec = 160sts)
Rnd 5: Knit.
Rnd 6: *YO, k2tog, k10, k2tog, yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. (10sts dec = 150 sts)
Rnd 7: Knit.
Continue working in this fashion, i.e., knitting 1 st less between k2tog stitches and knitting the next round until 90sts remaining.
Begin the hat band
Rnd 1 and 2: Purl.
Rnd 3: *DYO, k1, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round.
Rnd 4: *Sl yo letting the extra yo drop off the needle, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Rnd 5: *Knit yo and slipped stitch from previous round together, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Rnd 6 and 7: Purl.
Begin the crown
Rnd 1: Knit.
Rnd 2: *YO, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round.
Rnd 3 - 18: Repeat Rounds 8 and 9 - 8 more times.
Rnd 19: Purl.
Crown decreases
Rnd 1: Knit all odd-numbered rows.
Rnd 2: *(YO, k2tog) 4 times, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. (9sts dec = 81sts)
Rnd 4: *(YO, k2tog) 3 times, k2tog, k1, repeat from * to end of round. (9sts dec = 72sts)
Rnd 6: *(YO, k2tog) 3 times, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. (9sts dec = 63sts)
Rnd 8: *(YO, k2tog) 2 times, k2tog, k1, repeat from * to end of round. (9sts dec = 54sts)
Rnd 10: *(YO, k2tog) 2 times, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. (9sts dec = 45sts)
Rnd 12: *(YO, k2tog) 1 times, k2tog, k1, repeat from * to end of round. (9sts dec = 36sts)
Rnd 14: *(YO, k2tog) 1 times, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. (9 ts dec = 27sts)
Rnd 16: *K2tog, k1, repeat from * to end of round. (9sts dec = 18 ts)
Rnd 17: K2tog to end of round. (9sts dec = 9sts)
Rnd 18: *K1, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round (3sts dec = 6sts)
Cut yarn and draw through remaining sts and secure.
Wire the brim
I acquired a spool of decorative wire from my local dollar store to thread through the caston tube of the brim. This wire is very flexible, so I was able to thread it through the eye of a blunt needle and then through the brim. I left it a bit longer than the actual brim which created a scalloped effect. I secured each end together by twisting it around itself and seamed up the tube with the tail from the cast on. This should survive a delicate wash cycle, but if not, I have lots more wire to rethread if needed.
I wanted to make the hat stiffer so I researched making a fabric starch. I haven’t done this before so it was an experiment. Most of the sites I found had a similar recipe:
• ¼ cup lukewarm water
• 2 tbsp cornstarch
• 2 cups boiling water
Dissolve the cornstarch in lukewarm water. Add the boiling water and stir or whisk vigorously to remove all lumps. Let it cool then place it in a sprayer.
Sounds simple enough, however, my sprayer didn’t mist. Maybe the liquid was too thick for the sprayer or maybe it wasn’t the right sprayer. Instead of misting, it came out like a stream. I spread it around the hat best I could, which reminded me of decoupage. The hat was placed on an old straw hat to keep its form while the starch was drying … it took a long time due to the amount of starch on it. Oh well. It worked. My hat is stiff and looks great.
The hat is one size, however, all heads are not the same. It fits my head but as you’ll see from the photo, it’s a little big on DeeDee. A sun hat shouldn’t be snug on your head, but an adjustable hat band can help to size for fit.
To make the hat band, I used Cotton Supreme DK in Lavender with a US-E [3.5mm] crochet hook and US4 [3.5mm] circular knitting needle.
Using the crochet cast-on method, cast on 250sts onto the circular knitting needle.
With the crochet hook, slip the 1st stitch off the knitting needle and chain 1, then slip the 2nd stitch off the knitting needle and do a single crochet. This technique essentially does the knit stitch and cast-off stitch all in one motion. Continue across the balance of the stitches until all have been worked and weave in the ends.
The result is a crocheted ribbon that is then woven through the band section of the hat and tied into a bow.
My hat is complete and I’m very pleased with the results even though it took a lot of work to remove the overspray of starch from my table. It’s just how I envisioned it and DeeDee looks great wearing it. The mesh crown should allow the breeze to flow through and the crocheted ribbon hat band makes it adjustable. The wired brim and starch treatment help to keep its shape and it’s washable.
I’m using the same combination of colors to make a tote to match. Whether poolside or on the beach, you need a tote to carry things, like your phone, a bottle of water, and sunscreen to name a few. I previously mentioned that the subtheme is tubes. Now is more like knitting a cylinder and accenting it with I-cords. The tote is knit from the base up using Cotton Supreme Speckles in Fruit Punch and the embellishments are knit with Cotton Supreme DK in Lavender.
To make this tote, you will need the following:
materials
yarn
• 1 - 3.5oz [100g] skein of Cotton Supreme Speckles in Fruit Punch and Cotton Supreme DK in Lavender for the handles, drawstring and I-cords.
Note: It won’t take the entire skein of DK as I made the embellishments for both the hat and tote from a single skein with lots leftover. I had to go into a 2nd skein of Fruit Punch to finish my tote but I don’t think I started with a full skein. To be safe, have a 2nd skein available or use the balance of the skein from the hat.
needles
• 1 US5 [3.75mm] 32” circular needle for Magic Loop or DPNs
gauge 22sts = 4” in stocking stitch (approximately). Gauge isn’t that important but will affect the finished size.
abbreviations
K = Knit
P = Purl
St(s) = Stitch(es)
K2tog = Knit 2 stitches together
K2togtbl – Knit 2 stitches together through back loops
Inc = Increase
Dec = Decrease
Rep = Repeat
Rnd = Round
Sl = Slip stitch purl-wise
Sl YO = Slip YO stitch purl-wise
M1 = Make 1 stitch by picking up the bar between the two stitches and knit it through the back loop
Kfb = Knit into the front and back of the same stitch
RH = Right hand needle.
LH = Left Hand needle.
PM = Place Marker.
YO = Yarn Over, bring yarn to front of work and knit the next stitch.
DYO = Double Yarn Over, bring yarn to front of the work, wrap it over the RH needle, bring it back to the front of work and knit the next stitch.
Using Judy’s Magic Cast on, cast on 5sts.
Set up Round: Purl
Rnd 1: Kfb to end of round. (10sts)
Rnd 2 and all even rounds: purl.
Rnd 3: Kfb to end of round. (20sts)
Rnd 5: *K1, kfb, repeat from * to end of round. (30sts)
Rnd 7: *K2, kfb, repeat from * to end of round. (40sts)
Continue working in this manner increasing each odd numbered round by 1 knit stitch until 100sts, ending with a purl round. Your work should measure approximately 5½” in diameter.
Without cutting the yarn, move the working yarn to the back of your work.
This tubular edge incorporates both the I-cord cast-on and cast-off techniques in one step. With DK Lavender, cast on 3sts on the RH needle and shift them to the LH needle. The yarn from the ball should be attached to the leftmost stitch. Begin knitting the round as follows:
*Kfb, k1, k2togtbl, slide 3sts from the RH needle to the LH needle and repeat from *.
Continue to work all the stitches in this fashion until the end of round. You should have 103sts on the needle.
Cast off and seam (or graft) the last 3sts to the beginning of the round. You should now have 100sts in Lavender on the needle.
Using Fruit Punch, Knit 1 round increasing 1 stitch at the end of the round. (101sts)
Then work 8 rounds of Seed Stitch over an odd number of stitches as follows:
Rnd 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to last stitch, K1.
Rnd 2: *P1, K1, repeat from * to last stitch, P1. Repeat these two rounds 3 more times.
Rnd 9: Knit to last 2sts, K2tog. (100sts)
Note: When working in the round you will often get a jog in the pattern between the end and beginning of the round. By working the Seed Stitch pattern over an odd number of stitches, the jog seems to disappear. Then work the Mesh section as follows:
Rnd 1: *YO, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round.
Rnd 2: Knit to end of round.
Rnd 3: Purl to end of round.
Rnd 4: Knit to end of round.
Repeat these 4 rounds 5 more times. On the last knit round, increase 1 stitch (101sts)
Repeat the Seed Stitch section once more. (101sts)
Repeat the Mesh section. (100sts)
Repeat rounds 1 – 4 of the Seed Stitch section. (101 sts)
K49, m1, knit to end of round. (102sts)
Work the Double Yarn Over section as follows:
Rnd 1: *DYO, k1, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round.
Rnd 2: *Sl yo letting the extra yo drop off the needle, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Rnd 3: *Knit yo and sl together, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Rnd 4: K49, k2tog, knit to end of round. (101sts)
Repeat rounds 1 – 6 of the Seed Stitch section.
Knit 1 round decreasing 1 stitch at the end of round. (100sts)
With Lavender, cast on 3sts on the RH needle and transfer them to the LH needle. The feeding yarn from the ball should be on the leftmost stitch.
*K2, k2togtbl, slide 3sts from the RH needle to the LH needle and repeat from * until all Fruit Punch stitches have been cast off. Cast off and seam (or graft) the remaining Lavender stitches to the beginning of the round. Weave in ends, wash and block.
Now that all the knitting is complete, it’s time to embellish the tote. This first task is to reinforce the bottom of the tote. I found a piece of white foam core and cut it to size to fit the bottom which worked out to be approximately 6¼” in diameter. I inserted it while the tote was drying and blocking, and it can be easily removed for laundering. To block, I set it upside down on a large vase so that it hung down straight. Then lightly sprayed it with the starch solution from earlier, but didn’t overdo it like I did the hat. It dried with just enough stiffness to hold its shape. The next step was to make handles, and this is where I used some of my corking. I made two pieces approximately 23” in length. I then raided my button box and found 4 buttons to sew onto each end. The buttons fit snuggly through the DYO section. If I find 4 lavender buttons, I’ll attach them to the front side of the handles as decoration.
The last step was to make a drawstring closure. This time I cut the length of yarn (approximately 90”), halved it, then twisted it until it doubled over onto itself. Then I wove it through the top mesh row. This can be made to any length. In fact, mine is a bit on the long side but it can easily be shortened.
And there you have it … a tote to carry the “fun in the sun” essentials that match the sun hat! The finished tote size is approximately 11” in length and 22” in circumference.
What’s a Ruana you ask? A Ruana is a type of wrap that you throw over your shoulders and drape over your arms and body. Similar to a poncho, however, it’s open in the front and typically square, but that would mean it would cover most of your arms. In this case, I just want it to drape over the shoulders and cover the upper arms – a delicate spot for potential sunburn. My Ruana will be rectangular.
As I mentioned, I’m weaving this project on my 28” Knitters Loom which is a rigid heddle loom. I had a friend measure my desired finished width and knew this would fit me nicely. If your loom is smaller in width, you can make it in two pieces and seam the back. This also applies if you want to make it wider than your loom can handle.
For this project you will need the following: materials
yarn
• 5 - 3.5oz [100g] skeins of Cotton Supreme Speckles in Fruit Punch
• 1 skein of Cotton Supreme DK in Lavender total weaving yardage requirements 786yds Fruit Punch and 62yds Lavender tools
• 1 US4 [3.5mm] crochet hook for the edge embellishments
• a tapestry needle for weaving in ends and doing the hemstitch
• 3 (or 4) shuttles needle 7.5dpi
abbreviations
Dpi = Dents per Inch (measurement of the slots and eyelets in the heddle
Epi = Ends per inch (the number of warp threads per inch)
Ppi = Picks per Inch (refers to the weft)
Warping Instructions
Direct Warp Length = 82” based on a finished length of 64”.
Warp Thread Color Pattern = 2 Lavender, 24 Fruit Punch, Repeat from * and finish with 2 Lavender.
Weaving Instructions
Lavender – 4 passes with the shuttle as the 1st 2 rows will be used in the Hem Stitch
*Speckles – 24 passes with the shuttle
Lavender – 2 passes with the shuttle
Repeat from * ending with 2 more passes of Lavender for the final Hemstitch 2x3 (2 Weft, 3 Warp)
Weave in this fashion until 8 blocks have been completed, then divide for front opening. At this point, you will need two shuttles wound with Fruit Punch, however, I only used 1 shuttle for Lavender as there are only two passes required at a time.
The point for dividing is the center stripe of Lavender. Weave the right side and left side at the same time as this ensures the beating will be consistent. Since the Lavender passes are only two rows, I used 1 shuttle and wove 1 side, beat, cut the yarn, and then wove the other side.
Weave 9 blocks in total before ending with the 4 passes of Lavender, then hemstitch 2x3 (2 Weft, 3 Warp).
Cut it off the loom leaving enough length for twisting the fringe.
edging
The side and front edges are crocheted with Lavender and include belt and tie loops on each side and front. Before starting, determine where you want the loops by draping them over your shoulders and have someone place a pin marker at your waist.
Using a US4 [3.5mm] crochet hook and Lavender, pick up and SC (single crochet) one warp thread in between every other weft thread, BUT, work it like you would a Knit and Purl, alternating between each SC. That means, beginning with the Knit by inserting the crochet hook into the front of the work, then the Purl by inserting the crochet hook from the back of the work. This makes your edge lay completely flat so that the Ruana is reversible – identical on both sides.
When you get to the waist marker, CH3 (chain) and skip 3 wefts before working the next SC for the belt loop. Work the next loop approximately 3” later and continue along the edge. Work the next set of belt loops at the same place on the back (or front, depending on where you started). Once the entire side edge is complete, cut yarn and weave in ends. Repeat this process on the other side edge.
This time, you pick up from the bottom of one side, crochet up the edge, insert the tie loops where applicable, up to the neck and down the other side, repeating the tie loops in the same places.
When finished the loops are almost invisible so when not in use, you won’t have unsightly loops popping out.
Twist the fringe warp threads before laundering the Ruana. This way you can trim the ends. I rather like how mine frayed out so I’m keeping it just the way it came out of the laundry. I borrowed a fringe twisting tool from our Guild studio which made this task much quicker and easier.
Trim the ends and you’re done!
My finished measurements off the loom = 25”w x 64”l.
I made two different types of cords for the Ruana. Twisted ties for the front and/or sides, and Corking Cord. I didn’t have access to the fringe twister for the ties so I had to make them by hand. But I just have to share the corking results.
I was so enthralled with corking again after all these years that I found myself corking in the car (as a passenger), corking in front of the TV, corking in group discussions, and whenever I just wanted to do something with my hands. As a result, I ended up with about 9’ of corked cording which was way too long.
This next photo is for all my knitting pals out there who know how much I hate to cut yarn, never mind knitted fabric.
Yup, it’s true … I cut it, in two places! I experienced severe anxiety for the first cut, but on the second, I figured, in for a penny, in for a pound, and relaxed a little. The two smaller sections were used as the handles for the tote and the longer section as the belt for the Ruana. I unravelled a couple of rounds from each of the cut ends so that I could finish them off neatly and securely. Now that all my projects are completed, it’s time for the closeup reveal.
I’m really pleased with how my projects turned out this week. If you recall, the subtheme for this week was tubes and cords and they were fun to make. My error in ordering the DK weight of Cotton Supreme in a solid color worked out in the end. Even my over-starching of the hat worked out, but I’ll get a better sprayer for the next time I launder it with Soak.
I love the way the speckled yarn worked in both the knitted and woven fabrics. The specks add a bright spot of color that is cheerful and complemented by the Lavender.
I hope you enjoyed these articles. I know you’ll enjoy knitting UNIVERSAL YARN Cotton Supreme Speckles and wearing incredibly soft finished garments. Don’t forget to have some fun in the sun this summer!
Happy knitting.
Cindy O'Malley cindooknits.blogspot.com5 things I learned knitting the Roberta Bobble Cardigan
READ NOW
My Cozy Bubble Blanket Knit-on border and floats
much
don't miss these FREE projects & tutorials online!
READ NOW
How to convert a knitted sweater pattern into a cardigan
and there's so much more!
KNITmuch
Standard abbreviations & terms
approx = approximately
beg = begin(ning)
BO= bind off
CC = contrast color
ch = chain
cm = centimetre(s)
cn = cable needle
Sock, Fingering, Baby Sport, Baby DK, Light Worsted
Worsted, Afghan, Aran
Chunky, Craft, Rug Bulky, Roving Jumbo,
co = cast on
cont = continue, continuing
Roving
dc = double crochet
dec = decrease(s), decreasing
dpn = double-pointed needle(s)
foll = following
g = gram(s)
hdc = half double crochet
inc = increase(s), increasing in(s) = inch(es)
k = knit
kf&b or kfb = knit into front and back of st (increase)
ktbl = knit through the back loop
k2tog = knit 2 sts tog (right-leaning decrease)
k3tog = knit 3 sts together (double right-leaning decrease)
m = marker
m = meter(s)
m1 = Make 1 stitch: pick up the horizontal strand between 2 stitches from front to back and knit it tbl (lifted increase)
MC = main color
mm = millimetre(s)
oz = ounce(s)
p = purl
p2tog = purl 2 sts tog (decrease)
patt = pattern
pfb = purl into front and back of stitch (increase)
pm = place marker
psso = pass slipped stitch over
RS = right side
rem = remain(ing)
rep = repeat
rev = reverse rnd = round
sc = single crochet
sl = slip
* GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.
** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern.
*** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse of regular hook sizing.
This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at: YarnStandards.com
skp = slip one st, knit next st, pass slipped st over knit st (dec)
ssk = slip, slip, knit: slip 2 sts knitwise, 1 at a time, insert left-hand needle into front of both sts and knit them tog (left-leaning decrease)
* GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.
** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern.
** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern.
*** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse of regular hook sizing.
sssk = slip next three stitches individually, knitwise. Insert tip of left needle from front to back into the fronts of these three stitches and knit them together (double left-leaning decrease)
st(s) = stitch(es)
*** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse of regular hook sizing.
St st = stocking stitch
tbl = through back loop
This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at: YarnStandards.com
This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at: YarnStandards.com
tog = together
tr = treble crochet
WS = wrong side yo = yarn over