QUILTsocial | Issue 15 by A Needle Pulling Thread

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ISSUE

EAT, SLEEP, QUILT, REPEAT!

stippling in the hoop

machine embroidery bliss

exciting technology of mySewnet file sharing user friendly free motion quilting

20 projects

quilts, table runners, quilted gifts, recycling jeans, holiday stockings & gift ideas, banners

air thread overlock machine

Air Threading Loopers Built-In Needle Threader 4 / 3 / 2 Thread Sewing 15 Stitches Differential Feed LED Lighting Lay-In Tension

Celebrate the creative possibilities Wrap up your holiday projects with the elegant functionality and precision of PFAFF®.

PFAFF® Colour Touch Screen Large Sewing Space

sewing machine

The Original IDT System ™

Exclusive PFAFF® Stitch Techniques Exclusive Stitch Creator™ Feature

www.pfaff.com/en-CA

Editor's Letter Here we are, the holidays fast approaching, how are you doing with your list of gifts you're making? Don't fret, there are always solutions to the gift giving dilemma. There are always quilters and sewers on my list, I love to give gifts they will no doubt need and use. Any quilting accessory will be perfect from quilting rulers to batting to sewing machine needles, and you get the idea… Chocolate is always an easy option, but I'll tell you, I was once given a tin box full of quilting clever clips, (from a knitter friend no less) I admit I squealed! I had a few laying around my sewing space, but a boxful was a thrill to receive! Consider any kind of quilting or sewing tool or accessory, chances are the giftee might just be in need of it. In this issue is a fun collection of various quilting and sewing options for getting holiday ready. I also included some ideas for recycling jeans and the threads that help to make the transformation look professional. We take a close look at the capabilities of the PFAFF quilt expression 720 and the Brother Lumaire XP1. Sewing isn't sewing anymore, rather sewing and quilting are synonymus with exploring.

In particular, we look at stippling in the hoop on the quilt expression 720, how convenient when the machine does it for you so you can take it section by section on a bigger piece of quilting. Check out the machine embroidery of the Luminaire XP1 - program the design and watch it unfold. I wouldn't know where to start with all there is to explore. Interesting read is the article about mySewnet Cloud, a tool that let's you save and access your preferred stitches, designs and projects from different devices: your mySewnet™ enabled machine, your PC or Mac, your smartphone or tablet. See how this mySewnet can be a design and sewing tool as well as a way to share projects and design ideas with like-minded friends. Cheerfully,

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EAT, SLEEP, QUILT, REPEAT!

PUBLISHER, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ART DIRECTOR Carla A. Canonico carla@QUILTsocial.com PUBLISHER, ADVERTISING SALES John De Fusco john@QUILTsocial.com PHOTOGRAPHERS John De Fusco, Carla A. Canonico BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS Sarah Vanderburgh sewjoycreations.com Tania Denyer gingerquilts.ca Elaine Theriault crazyquilteronabike.blogspot.ca Robin Bogaert quiltingintheloft.com Liana Kirkey lianak.stc@gmail.com GRAPHIC & WEB DESIGN Carla A. Canonico carla@QUILTsocial.com Sondra Armas WEB and IT Support Alejandro Araujo

* projects * techniques * product reviews

WEBSITE / BLOG : https://QUILTsocial.com Like us on Facebook : QUILTsocial Follow us on Pinterest : quiltsocial Follow us on Twitter : @QUILTsocial WHERE TO GET YOUR COPY QUILTsocial is a quarterly eMagazine published by A Needle Pulling Thread. It is available free for personal use online at https://QUILTsocial.com. A limited number of printed copies of QUILTsocial are available for purchase at select quilt shops and specialty stores. Ask for it at your local shop. QUILTsocial is not available by subscription. QUILT SHOPS If you are interested in carrying QUILTsocial in your store, please email john@QUILTsocial.com. EDITORIAL Designers and other contributors who would like to be considered for future issues please email carla@QUILTsocial.com with a brief description of your work and your proposed project for the magazine. ©2019 QUILTsocial. All rights reserved. Issue 15 ISSN 2368-5913. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

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Elaine’s Quilting Tech Tips! 4

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Advertiser Index 68 A Needle Pulling Thread Magazine 67 Brother 66 Business Directory 39 Coats 65 eQuilter.com 19 Gütermann Creativ 33 Husqvarna Viking 65 Melissa Marginet 45 Northcott Fabrics 02 PFAFF 04 QUILTsocial.com

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CONTENTS 06

How to make your holidays sew much easier

2 fabulous felt projects to make your holidays sew much easier

Mini Holiday Countdown Stockings are sew easy to make

Simple Essentials Travel Tote is sew easy to make for gifting

Making a stand mixer cover for the baker on your holiday list

How to use the exciting technology of mySewnet file sharing

Free motion quilting with the PFAFF quilt expression 720

Making a quilted banner for your sewing space

Free motion the easy way with the PFAFF quilt expression 720

User friendly free motion quilting with PFAFF quilt expression 720

Tidy topstitching makes the Sew Joy quilted banner sparkle!

Recycling denims using Coats Dual Duty XP and Plus threads

The beauty and strength of a denim note book cover

Making the Shirr Thing Bag

Denim Bracelet Trio, no one will ever guess!

Band Together Tote gets everyone smiling

Quilting for baby Tummy Time Mat

Dresden Delight quilt block

Thinking of fall, a quilted runner

Holiday Mini Quilts

Exploring the vast embroidery capabilities of the Brother Luminaire XP1

Embroidery screen workflow of the Brother Luminaire Innov-is XP1

Playing with the Brother Luminaire embroidery editing tools

Create stippling-in-the-hoop with the Brother Luminaire

Making your own appliques on the Brother Luminaire

Alilah fabric makes the Magical Moose Crossing table runner, whimsical!

Making the leaf quilt block for the Magical Moose Crossing table runner

A background of beautiful maple leaves and simple grid quilting

Making a moose applique realistic using Banyan Batiks Alilah!

Magical Moose Crossing quilted table runner, finished and on the table

How to make your holidays sew much easier

Robin Bogaert

materials Makes 2 Microwave Mitts • 4 - 6" x 4” cut of HeatnBond Non-Woven Light Weight Fusible Interfacing Fleece by • 4 - 6" x 4” cut of Therm UNIQUE quilting pocket fabric, fabric used: Nothcott Red Gingham Sugar and Spice • 4 - 8" x 4½” cut of main fabric: Northcott Sugar and Spice • 4 - 8" x 4½” cut of UNIQUE Therm Fleece • Gütermann metallic thread, Gütermann Rayon, Sulky Sliver • thread to match your fabric sewing instructions

• Iron the HeatnBond Interfacing with

fusible side to the wrong side of your 4 pocket fabric pieces.

Holiday Ornament Hot Pad and Microwave Mitts

Are you thinking about your holiday preparations yet and wondering, "What can I sew or quilt to make my holidays easier and fun?" I'm happy to be showing you How to Make Your Holidays “Sew” Much Easier. The content will include creative gift ideas for all ages and festive decor using Gütermann Dekor Rayon and Dekor Metallic threads, Therm Fleece, HeatnBond Light Weight Fusible Interfacing, UNIQUE Wash-out Marker and UNIQUE Rick Rack. Two Easy Gift Items for Cooks Spending time in the kitchen during the holidays is a tradition almost every family enjoys, so why not have it looking festive? I’ll share 2 projects that are a combination of useful, holiday decor Mini Microwave Mitts

and/or simple gifts for friends, neighbors’, coworkers and hostesses. Let’s get started with Mini Microwave Mitts. Often we’re taking a smaller dish out of the microwave and these items can be very hot. This microwave mitt project will prevent you from burning your fingers and will also look great sitting near your microwave, an added bonus as they take up very little space. Time to use some gorgeous Christmas fabric! Pictured is fabric from Northcott Sugar & Spice Holiday Collection and it’s trimmed with the red gingham also from this collection. Essential in this project (and many more) is Therm Fleece from UNIQUE Quilting as it acts as a thermal layer to keep the heat away from your tender fingertips.

Fusing HeatnBond Non-Woven Light Weight Fusible Interfacing to hand pocket pieces

• Fold and press

in half each interfaced hand pocket piece wrong sides together along the length and set aside. Hand Pockets folded in half along the short side

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• Pin Therm Fleece

to the wrong side of your 4 main fabric pieces, the metallic side should face toward the fabric. • Quilt through the Therm Fleece and main layers with Pinning Therm Fleece a walking or free to the wrong side of the fabric motion foot.

• Sew around the perimeter of your

mitts using a walking foot and a ¼” seam allowance, do not sew in the 2” opening. • Remove pins, clip corners and turn to the right side through the gap, sew the gap closed with hand stitching. • Admire your efforts! These take very little time, great for small gifts,The finished mini stocking stuffers microwave mitts, ready for gift giving etc. Another great holiday kitchen decor idea with useful appeal…An Ornament Hot Pad with recipe pocket. Place your favorite recipe in the pocket on the back and give it to your holiday hostesses this year.

» 1- 10" x 12” cut of backing fabric ,

Northcott Sugar and Spice » 1- 10" x 12” cut of pocket fabric (on back), Northcott Sugar and Spice » 1- 10" x 12” cut of Fairfield Quilter’s 80/20 » 1- 10" x 12” cut of Therm Fleece » 1- 2½” cut x width of fabric for binding, Northcott Swedish Christmas Red » 5½” x 4” cut of silver or grey fabric (metal neck of ornament) » assorted decorative threads for embroidery stitches, used in this project Gütermann Dekor Metallic #41, Sulky Metalic Christmas Red, Sulky Sliver Xmas Green, Gütermann Dekor Rayon Variegated Foliage » Schmetz Metallic Needles » Unique Wash out Marker » Free pattern download provided here » sewing thread to match your project sewing instructions

• Sew all of your beautiful fabric strips

Quilt through therm fleece and main fabric

together and measure to make sure there's 12” in width when complete, press seams open. Cut a piece from the strip set 10” x12”, you can save any of the remaining strip set for more hot pads.

• Square these 4 main pieces to 7½” x 4”.

• Pin the raw edges of the hand pocket pieces to the 4” end of 2 of the quilted main pieces, you will have 2 other main pieces and they’re now the backs of the mitts.

2 quilted back and 2 front pieces with hand pockets pinned to front

• Baste 1⁄8” around the raw edges of

the hand pockets, removing pins as you sew. • Place your back pieces right side down on top of the pocketed front pieces and pin leaving a All layers sandwiched 2” opening for together and pinned, turning. leaving a 2'' opening for turning

Holiday Ornament Hot Pad

materials Makes 1 Ornament Hot Pad • 5-6 strips of fabric cut width of fabric in various widths to measure 12” width total when sewn together, fabric used was Northcott Fabrics Swedish Christmas and Nothcott ColorWorks Premium Solid 9000

Strip set sewn together and seams pressed open

• Decorate the

right side with Decorative & Metallic Threads, Embroidery Machine Needles, Luscious and sparkly thread from Rick Rack and decorative stitches. Gütermann really makes this project shine This is a great time to audition the decorative stitches on your sewing machine.

Photos by Robin Bogaert

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• Press the grey to the backside and

sew a discrete line of sewing on the ¼” folded side on the back of the hot pad, you may also wish to quilt the ornament hanger.

Decorative stitches and threads used to make the “ornament” hot pad sparkle and shine

Ornament hanger quilted with Gütermann Metallic thread in Silver

• Iron your back pocket piece wrong

sides together in ½ along the 12” length and press so there is a crisp fold, set aside. • Prepare binding fabric as you would for a quilt by folding wrong sides together along the length and press, set aside. • Make a quilt sandwich by placing 4 layers together, the back piece right side down, wrong side facing up, batting on top, Therm Fleece placed on top (metallic side facing up) and then your strip set on top, right side facing up.

Pattern pinned to top of quilt sandwich ready to be traced and cut out

• Iron one 4” edge

of your grey fabric (for ornament hanger) under ¼”. • Measure and mark the center of the quilt sandwich at the One edge of fabric top and mark 2½” pressed under ¼” down from center with your wash-out marker. • Lay the raw edge of the 4” side of the grey fabric on the 2½” mark you just made, pin, sew along the 4” length and flip to the back side of the quilt sandwich.

• Baste your pocket piece to the back

of the quilted ornament with a 1⁄8” seam allowance and fold placed towards the center back, match bottom edges and cut out even with the ornament front.

Press the grey to the backside and sew a discrete line of sewing on the ¼” folded side on the back of the hot pad, you may also wish to quilt the ornament hanger.

• Once cut out, bind the ornament as

4 layers sandwiched together

you would a quilt. It’s recommended to sew the binding on the right side of the ornament by machine, stop at the left top of the grey fabric and leave a 5” loop of binding fabric. Resume sewing on the right top side of the grey fabric and complete the sewing of the binding as you would for a quilt. Refer to photo.

• Pin and quilt through all layers with a walking or free motion foot.

• Using the free pattern, cut out your

pattern and lay it on your quilt sandwich, mark your sandwich along the lines of the pattern with a Unique Wash Out Marker and cut out all layers with scissors. Grey fabric (ornament hanger) on 2½” marker made by wash-out marker

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Place a favorite recipe in the pocket on the back of the ornament. We all enjoy favorite Holiday Cookie recipes!

Binding sewn to the front of the ornament

Completed Ornament Hot Pad, ready for gift giving

Folding the loop to look like binding

• Press and hand sew the binding on

the back of the ornament and at the 5” loop section. Fold the 5” loop section to look like the binding. Refer to photo. • Place a favorite recipe in the pocket on the back. • Admire your efforts, it’s ready for holiday decor, gift giving and for the cooks/chefs in your life!

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2 fabulous felt projects

to make your holidays sew much easier Here's yet another way to make the holidays “sew” easy, it involves the use of craft felt, specifically Kunin Rainbow ClassicFelt, Kunin PrestoFelt. This project also uses some hand embroidery and machine stitching to make this felt look so festive without hours of effort. Kunin felt is made of polyester, acrylic. Did you know that this product is also Eco Friendly and partially made from recycled post-consumer plastic bottles? Felt is also very versatile as it does not fray, it’s easy to cut, DMC embroidery floss goes through it like butter and you can use it in single or multiple layers. It’s very affordable, light weight and makes great soft toys for children. So why not give it a try this season?

materials • Copyright free snowflake design measuring 3¾'' x 3¾'' or download this free design from here • Schmetz Metallic Machine Needles • Sulky Holoshimmer Silver • Rainbow Classic Felt in green and white or colors of your choice • Hi-tak Glue • Ripple Blade Rotary Cutter (optional)

• Insert your

•

sewing instructions

• Cut out 4 snowflakes from white felt from design source of your choice.

•

Snowflake Coasters (Make 4 at a time)

• Snowflake design in white cut out of Kunin Rainbow ClassicFelt

• Cut out 8

Four snowflake coasters

The first fabulous festive felt project is snowflake coasters made easy by using Rainbow Classic Felt, Hi-tak Glue, Sulky Holoshimmer Silver and Schmetz Metallic Machine Needles. These little coasters could also be ornaments, gift package decor and are also a great addition to a bottle of wine for those holiday parties or take away gifts.

Hi Tak Glue dots placed on the back of the snowflake

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•

Rainbow Classic Felt squares 4½'' x 4½''. • Using the Hi-tak Glue, glue the snowflake to the center of 4 of your felt squares and let dry for one hour.

•

Hi Tak Glue, great for felt projects

Schmetz Metallic Needles into your sewing machine and thread your machine with Sulky Holoshimmer Thread. Sandwich 2 squares of felt together with a plain felt square and a snowflake square facing up Use Sulky and pin to hold Holoshimmer to make your snowflake together. coasters shine Top stitch and quilt the snowflake through the two layers with an applique, open toe or free motion foot. Square your coasters to 4¼'' x 4¼'' with a ripple blade rotary cutter or straight Schmetz Metallic blade. needles help your Using a ¼'' foot, thread glide through top stitch through your needle and 2 layers around prevent breakage. square ¼'' in from the perimeter. Admire your efforts!

Sulky Holoshimmer top stitched through all three layers of felt making it sparkle

The back of the snowflake coaster, the Sulky Holoshimmer shows a sparkly snowflake design

materials (makes one tree and several ornaments) • PrestoFelt and Rainbow ClassicFelt, comes in 8 x 11½'' sheets, assortment of colors • 1 yd of green for tree (ClassicFelt), width should be at least 39” • Hi-tak Glue • DMC Embroidery Floss (used silver and light blue in this project) • sharp scissors • simple hand drawn holiday shapes of your choice or copyright fee clip art • chalk marker for tree • Gold Eye Crewel Embroidery Needles • embellishments (optional) i.e. buttons, sequins, beads, embroidery stitches sewing instructions

• Cut out felt designs Snowflake coasters attached to a bottle of wine and ready for gift giving

Felt Christmas Tree for Toddlers If you have some toddlers/grandbabies visiting over the holidays, this project may just keep them out of the real Christmas tree. Give them one of their own! This project uses PrestoFelt, Rainbow ClassicFelt, Hi-tak Glue, DMC Embroidery Floss and Heirloom Quality Gold Eye Crewel Embroidery Needles. This little tree and ornaments is a quick hand embroidered DIY project that when packaged up, could also make a very thoughtful gift for those little ones on your Holiday list.

from design source of your choice for ornaments for the Christmas tree. • Cut out the Christmas tree as shown by folding a 24” x 39” fabric piece of felt in half lengthwise and draw the Christmas tree with a chalk marker. Draw this shape free-hand, starting with a wider bottom and working smaller Draw the Christmas towards the top. tree with a chalk pencil Refer to photo: • Layer and embellish the ornaments using ClassicFelt with Hitak Glue and PrestoFelt. The PrestoFelt already has a sticky backing so it is easy to layer with it. Remove the paper backing and presto it’s easy! • Use DMC Embroidery floss and Gold Eye Crewl Embroidery Needles to make basic embroidery stitches such as a running stitch, french knots, stem stitch and blanket stitch. The crewel embroidery needles are strong and go through the Presto Felt and Hi-tak Glue with ease. The DMC Embroidery Floss adds nice dimension to the ornaments. Refer to photo.

Felt Christmas tree for toddlers

Once you complete this felt Christmas tree project, you may also please some parents with hours of ‘felty’ fun for their little ones.

Holiday shapes cut from Kunin Rainbow ClassicFelt and PrestoFelt, embellished with DMC Embroidery Floss, Heirloom Quality Crewel Embroidery Needles and hand embroidery stitches

Holiday shapes using Kunin Rainbow ClassicFelt & PrestoFelt

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Mini Holiday Countdown Stockings are sew easy to make threads machine embroidery thread assortment, used in this project • SULKY Holoshimmer Silver • Gütermann Dekor Metallic #41 • SULKY Metallic Christmas Red • SULKY Sliver Xmas Green • Gütermann Dekor Rayon Variegated Foliage • Gütermann Dekor Rayon Tutti Frutti other

• Schmetz Metallic Machine Needles • Duo Tip Fabric Markers • UNIQUE SEWING Wash Out Markerblue

All 24 holiday countdown mini stocking hanging, ready to celebrate the season. Make some using Gütermann Metallic threads, Schmetz Metallic Needles and Northcott Holiday Collections

Take time over the holidays to savor all of the special moments with family and celebrate each day leading up to Christmas with a fun holiday countdown decor project. With this project, you can use and admire some beautiful Northcott Holiday Collections and shimmering Dekor Metallic, SULKY and Gütermann threads. Mini Holiday Countdown Stockings Get into the festive spirit with this project. Fill these mini stockings with goodies each day to decorate and celebrate the holidays with all of your family members for years to come.

materials (makes 24 mini stockings) • 8 Christmas cotton prints, used in this project Northcott Holiday Collections: Swedish Christmas and Sugar and Spice, cut 6” x width of fabric • 8 pieces of batting, used Fairfield Quilter’s 80/20 Quilt Batting in this project, cut 6” x 44” • 8 pieces of lining, fabric used ColorWorks White from Northcott Fabric in this project, cut 6” x width of fabric • Cut 6 strips 2¼'' x width of fabric and subcut into 4½'' lengths of fabric for cuffs (48 needed) (set aside) used ColorWorks White from Northcott Fabric • Cut 3 strips 1½'' x width of fabric and sub cut into 5” lengths for hanging loops (white used) Download the free mini stocking pattern (front and back) and numbers here

Holiday Mini Countdown Stockings

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• free motion or walking foot • thread to match for quilting and assembly

• hot iron (cotton setting) • medium sized Christmas colored

UNIQUE Medium Rick Rack for hanging stockings

One quilt sandwich Quilt sandwiches completed, 7 more to go! completed and ready to make 24 mini stockings

sewing instructions • Make quilt sandwiches from all 8 Christmas prints used: Northcott Holiday Collections, Swedish Christmas and Sugar and Spice facing up and then Fairfield Quilter’s 80/20 Quilt Batting and lining, pin or spray baste and quilt using the method of your choice.

Hanging loop folded in half and raw edges folded towards the center

Hanging loop completed by folding the folded sides towards the center and top stitched.

• Find the center

Such gorgeous festive fabric from Northcott Holiday Collections

• Using the free pattern download

for the mini stockings, cut out 3 fronts and 3 backs from all of 8 fabric sandwiches for 24 stockings. • Make 5” x 1½'' hanging loops by folding them in half along the length and pressing both raw edges towards the folded mark in the center, fold again, press and top stitch (set aside).

of 24 of the front cuff pieces by marking with the UNIQUE SEWING Wash-out Marker in blue, 1⁄8'' from top center on the 4½'' width. Top of front cuff • Using the Duo Tip Fabric Markers marked to center numbers with UNIQUE (red used) and SEWING Wash-out the downloaded Marker (blue) numbers pattern, trace them onto the 24 cuffs, ½'' from the top edge, press to heat seal the dye in the marker. This will take about 15 seconds on cotton setting. This step is important as the heat will make the dye color fast. This is a fantastic way to achieve an appliqued number effect without the cutting and fusing involved in applique.

Duo Tip Fabric Markers, so much fun to work with for many projects!

Mini Stockings being cut out from quilt sandwiches

The stack of stocking (front and backs)

Numbers and hanging loops completed with Duo Tip Fabric Marker

• Fold the opposite side of the cuff

under ¼'' and press. See photo, the edge below the numbers and back cuff (bottom) is pressed under. • For the front and back of the stocking, lay the cuff right side down on the top of the wrong side (lining) side of the stocking (front piece with the number centered) and sew ¼'' along the top edge of the stocking, flip to the front side and press.

Front of cuff right side against lining and stitch ¼'' from the top raw edge. Northcott ColorWorks (white)

Number 2 traced onto front cuff fabric with Duo Tip Fabric Fun Marker and heat sealed with an iron to set color

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• Adhere the loops folded in half to

the back of the stocking on the right side ¼'' from the top (loop facing into stocking). Refer to photo.

Front and back of stocking cuff sewn right side against lining and sewn ¼'' from top raw edge, Northcott ColorWorks white

Stocking now sewn and curves clipped

Front and back cuffs, sewn ¼'' from edge and flipped to the right side and pressed, fabric

• Make a decorative stitch using

Gütermann and SULKY decorative threads and Schmetz Metallic needles along the ¼'' folded edge of the front to secure it to the stocking. • Top stitch the back cuff approximately 1⁄8'' from the folded edge.

Adhere hanging loop to back cuff ¼'' from top and loop facing into stocking

• Place the finished stocking pieces

(front and back) right sides together, pin and stitch sides using a ¼'' seam allowance. • Clip curves and turn to the right side through the cuff opening.

• Press the stockings. • Hang them on UNIQUE medium rick

rack on your mantle or wall and stuff them with goodies. Rick rack looks so fun, is strong and prevents the stockings from slipping as the curves of it hug your stocking loops. • Admire your Holiday Countdown Mini Stockings!

Stockings, stockings and more stockings

Top cuff complete with decorative stitch

Front and back of stocking pinned right sides together

Gütermann Metallic Thread shimmers and sparkles on holiday projects

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Simple Essentials Travel Tote is sew easy to make for gifting other • 12mm UNIQUE bias tape maker • small amount of HeatnBond Feather Lite Iron-On Adhesive for trim and monogram • 2 – 30cm/12'' General Purpose Closed End Zippers • 2 pieces of lightweight fusible interfacing cut 13½'' x 11½'' • snap or 1” piece of Velcro for closure • Heirloom Wash Out Blue Marker • thread to match all your fabric, white, black and royal blue used in this project • zipper foot, walking foot sewing instructions The Simple Essentials Travel Tote with 2 zippered pockets, a divided pocked, a large pocket, handles and a snap closure. The pockets help you to organize your travel essentials.

Everyone needs a travel tote! This tote is not only easy to make, it can be personalized with a monogram and can tote any range of items from arts and craft/sewing supplies to make up brushes, small toys and toiletries. It’s very versatile for all ages. It has 4 simply constructed pockets and for this reason, it’s called the Simple Essentials Travel Tote. Featured in this project are HeatnBond Feather Lite Iron-On Adhesive, Northcott Black and White With a Dash of Color, 2 Closed End Zippers, UNIQUE Wash Out Blue Marker and Fairfield 80/20 Batting. Simple Essentials Travel Tote This is a unique gift and an original pattern, follow along and make this tote for all ages on your Christmas list. materials fabric Northcott Black and White With a Dash of Color • ½ yd of main fabric cut one 13½'' x 21½'' (outside of tote), cut one 11½'' x 13½'' for outside of one zippered pouch, cut two 5'' x 14'' – handles, cut one 3'' x 12” for center inside band • ½ yd of inside fabric cut one 13½'' x 21½'' (inside of tote), cut one 11½'' x 13½'' for outside of second zippered pouch • ½ yd of lining fabric for zippered pockets, cut two 13½'' x 11½'' (lining for zippered pockets) • ½ yd of trim fabric – (optional) cut four ¾'' x 11'' accent strips on zippered pouches, cut two 2½'' x width of fabric for binding, cut one 10'' x 14”, small inside divided pocket and cut one 10'' x 16” large inside pocket, cut one 4'' x 4” for monogram • batting, Fairfield 80/20 cut one 13½'' x 21½'' outside of tote, cut one 1½'' x 11” for center band, cut two 12½'' x 2½'' for handles

Note: This seems like a lot of steps, but it’s really very easy and once you have made one, I’m sure you will want to make more. • Quilt the tote outside together by layering the main fabric (black print) right side up on top of the batting and then the inside fabric (dot print) facing towards the outside of the sandwich, quilt as desired using a walking or free motion foot, square this piece to 12½'' x 20½''. • Bind the outside of tote piece just completed as you would a quilt with a 2½'' x width of fabric trim pieces Outside of tote now quilted (blue as shown). Set aside. • Prepare handles by pressing each short end of handles to the wrong side under ¼''. • Press in ½'' along the length in the center, press both raw edges of long sides towards the center wrong sides together and insert the batting, press fabric in half along the length again, pin to hold batting and fabric and top stitch 2 handles. • Set aside, refer to Fabric pressed in half along the length in the photos. center, Northcott Black and White With A Dash of Color

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• Make your accent Batting inserted in handles, Fairfield 80/20, Northcott Black and White With a Dash of Color

Raw edges of handles pressed towards the center, Northcott Black and White With A Dash of Color

Handles folded, pressed once more and top stitched, Northcott Black and White With A Dash of Color, Fairfield 80/20 Batting

strips (x4) with the trim fabric and the UNIQUE bias tape maker (follow instructions on package) and top stitch these accent strips 2” down from the top of the fabric on both ends. See photos. • Lay lining fabric wrong side against UNIQUE Bias Tape Maker 12mm used for interfacing and match all sides of the trim outside pouch fabric, baste stitch the short end together at one end 1⁄8'' down from the top for both pouches.

• Install zipper on the outside top of

the pouch as shown in photo with a zipper foot, right side of zipper against right side of fabric, do this for both pouches.

• Prepare the center band by pressing

under ¼'' at the short ends as you did the handles. • Press in the center along the length and press raw edges towards the center crease wrong sides together. • Insert the batting, zigzag where the raw edges meet in the center through all layers of fabric and batting. • Top stitch as shown in the photo. Set aside.

Zipper applied to one of the zipper pouches, Closed End Zipper

• Iron fabric away from zippers and top Accent strips (blue) top stitched to the zipper pouches, Northcott Black and White with a Dash of Color and used the UNIQUE Bias Tape Maker

stitch. See photo below.

Center band completed with Northcott Black and White and A Dash of Color, Fairfield 80/20 batting

• Prepare zippered pouches by fusing

lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the outside of pouch fabrics (x2).

Lining fabric wrong side against interfacing and basted at the one end (do this to both zipper pouches), Northcott Black and White With A Dash of Color Fabric ironed away from zipper and top stitched, closed end zipper, Northcott Fabric Black and White With A Dash of Color

Fusing interfacing to zipper pouches x2

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• Open zippers, fold pouches in half

right side of fabric together and place other right side end of fabric against the other right side of zipper and sew zipper (make sure sides match). See photos below.

• Sew side seams and cut away excess zipper, zigzag the seams.

Folding fabric towards other side of zipper, closed end zipper, Northcott Fabric, Black And White With A Dash of Color

Monogram fusible side ironed to outside center of bag (front), HeatnBond Feather Lite Iron on Adhesive, Northcott Black and White With a Dash of Color

• Prepare 2 trim Side seams sewn and excess zipper cut away, side seams zigzagged, Closed End Zipper

• Make the monogram from a hand

drawn letter or lettering you find from another source, add HeatnBond Feather Lite Iron-on Adhesive (follow excellent package directions) to the wrong side and fuse it to the center front of your bag.

Fabric now sewn to other side of zipper, Closed End Zipper

fabric pockets but folding them in half length wise right sides together, leaving a 2'' gap. • Sew around the sides and bottom with a ¼'' seam Trim (blue fabric) allowance, turn pocket pieces folded to right side, sew in half and sewn around sides and gap closed and bottom. press. • Sew the largest of the 2 trim pockets to the inside of the monogrammed side of bag with folded side facing towards the top of the bag.

HeatnBond Feather Lite Iron on Adhesive (fusible side on wrong side of monogram fabric)

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• Topstitch 3 sides leaving the folded side open.

The Simple Essentials Travel Tote with 2 zippered pockets, a divided pocked, a large pocket, handles and a snap closure. The pockets help you to organize your travel essentials. Add the handles by sewing, centered at the top inside of the tote as shown.

• To add the zippered pouches, lay

Trim (blue fabric) pocket pieces folded in half and sewn around sides and bottom.

• Sew the smallest trim pocket to

the opposite side and mark at 2'' intervals to divide, top stitch these lines to make dividers for small objects. See photo.

your center band in the center of your tote on the inside (mark with a marker first), sew a line down the center to secure this. • Tuck the bottom end of the zippered pouches just under the center band on each side in about ½'' and top stitch the band through all layers, center band, pouches and outside of quilted tote to secure.

Smallest pocket sewn to opposite side, divided and top stitched.

• Sew handles to both sides of tote by finding the center top of tote on the inside and spacing each handle 2” from center and top stitch.

Center band is top stitched on top of the zipper pouches and zipper pouches are tucked just under the band.

• Add a snap or Velcro closure at the top center of bag and admire your efforts!

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Making a stand mixer cover for the baker on your holiday list xo During the holiday season, baking is on almost every family’s to-do list. The very popular stand style mixers get a workout. At other times of the year they also sit idle. A stand mixer cover is a great gift for bakers (and cooks) and those that love their kitchen gadgets. Check out my KitchenAid Professional 5 Plus below, I love it almost as much as I love Christmas cookies and love it enough to take good care of it. This cover will prevent the dust from settling during the idle season and add some pretty decor to your kitchen with Northcott Mel’s Diner Fabric and Fairfield Quilter’s 80/20 Batting. KitchenAid Mixer Cover made with Fairfield 80/20 Batting, Heirloom Washout Marker and Northcott Mel’s Diner, ColorWorks

Stand Style Mixer Cover

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materials Note: You may wish to measure your own individual stand mixer to get your specific measurements and make adjustments to the ones given here as individual models vary in size- this is based on a KitchenAid Professional 5 series. • 2 each: 16½'' tall x 15'' wide main fabric, lining and Fairfield Quilter's 80/20 batting (front and back of cover); Northcott Mel’s Diner fabric was used for this sample • 53'' x 11½'' piece of coordinating fabric, lining and batting for side piece • approximately 100” length of 2½'' width strip of bias fabric for binding around curved top, front and back; Northcott ColorWorks solid turquoise fabric was used for this sample • 1 straight of grain strip 2½'' x width of fabric for bottom binding • circle template or a large glass tumbler (to mark and curve top corners) • Heirloom Wash Out Blue Marker

front and back pieces

side piece

binding

sewing instructions • Layer 2 main fabric front and back right sides facing out, batting and lining in a sandwich together and pin or spray baste, quilt as desired.

Quilt sandwiches (x3) side, front and back all ready to go along with the binding fabric.

• Layer the 52'' x 11½'' coordinating

side fabric, batting and lining together in a quilt sandwich, baste and quilt as desired. • Mark the top corners of main fabrics front and back with an Heirloom Wash Out Markerto round them using a circle template or large glass tumbler, cut out the arc. See photo. • Sew the coordinating side fabric piece wrong side against the wrong side of the front piece and sew (lining sides together). Trim any excess fabric at the end of sewing.

• Sew the back piece to the

coordinating fabric side piece wrong sides together (lining sides together), make sure to line up all edges and pin. • Sew bias binding to the front and back seams as you would a quilt. Sew by machine, roll the binding over the seam and hand stitch to secure. • Sew straight of grain binding to the bottom edge of cover.

Cutting out a curve to both top corners of the front and back quilt sandwiches with a circle template

Admire your efforts! The baker in your life will love this custom made stand mixer cover! I hope you enjoyed these projects designed to make your holiday sewing sew much easier. I certainly enjoyed sharing with you how to make the microwave mitts and ornament pot holder, felt coasters and felt Christmas tree, the holiday countdown mini stockings, the simple essentials travel tote and the stand mixer cover. More importantly, I hope these are ideas that help you to feel inspired to make for those on your Christmas list.

Sew bias binding to the front and back seams as you would a quilt. Sew by machine, roll the binding over the seam and hand stitch to secure.

Robin Bogaert

quiltingintheloft.com

Stand mixer cover ready for gift giving. Fabric by Northcott Mel’s Diner and ColorWorks, Batting by Fairfield Quilter's 80/20.

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How to use the exciting technology of mySewnet file sharing Elaine Theriault I was piecing this the other day and thought I’d share it with you. This block will be 3½” unfinished when it’s together.

Time-saving tip A good many of my presser feet are in this plastic container. When I want a particular presser foot, it’s easy to pull out this container and find the appropriate foot. I also keep a small screwdriver in the box for the odd time I need to remove the presser foot ankle.

I made all those little half-square triangles on the Opal 690Q. Each of those little squares measures 1¼”. I had no issues sewing them – it’s a matter of keeping control of your work.

This kind of organization saves so much time.

Using the guidelines on the stitch plates to sew a larger than ¼” seam. Storage box for presser feet

Excellent stitch quality In this photo, I’m sewing a quilt backing. I’m using a much larger than ¼” seam allowance which is easy to achieve by following the guidelines on the stitch plate. This is a good example of where that optional extension table comes in very handy. The extension table will hold the bulk of the fabric so it doesn’t slide off the edge of the sewing machine ensuring that I’m getting a much straighter seam.

No white thread shows through even after a good press. I’ve seen many tension issues over the years. If you can see your piecing thread on the outside of your work, your tension is off. That needs to be fixed or go the easy way and get the Opal 690Q which gives you a perfect stitch without you doing any of the work to make that happen. Ta-da!

The quality of the stitch is perfect

Don’t you love it when you think you’re done only to realize that you sewed half the block upside down?

For the experienced sewists, we take this for granted. But if you’re new to the sewing world, that extension table will help to keep things under control. What I want to show you is the quality of the stitch. The seam was stitched with a 50wt thread. Based on the settings I indicated, the Exclusive Sewing Advisor set all the parameters such as stitch length, stitch width, tension, etc. The quality of that stitch can’t be beaten. I used white thread on that dark fabric.

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The quality of the stitch is perfect

How small is too small? We often talk about how large of a project you can work with on the sewing machine, but we rarely chat about how small you can go.

Half of the quilt block got turned upside down.

Don’t you love it when you think you’re done only to realize that you sewed half the block upside down?

Photos by Elaine Theriault | issue 15

Because of the small size, it’s very hard to hold the pieces straight under the presser foot and there are a lot of lumps and bumps with all those points. I sewed slowly and used the quilter’s awl (stiletto) to help hold the fabrics in place as they were so small. The Exclusive Sensor System helps to keep all those points where they should be. I’m using the Quilter’s ¼” Piecing foot to achieve standard ¼” seams.

Even when working on a small scale, the piecing thread doesn’t show. That is such an important thing for me.

What to do when you’re bored I’m not sure that I’m ever bored when I’m in my sewing studios. I do know that I love to work with cast-off scraps and make things from them. Somewhere along the way, I acquired this stack of left and right-angled triangles. I had passed over them on several occasions and what the heck was I to do with them? Chain piecing the fabric scraps.

Then I matched them up – a dark and a light and I chain pieced them. I ended up with these very cool blocks. I’m not sure what I’ll do with them yet, but I love them. I think a nice pop of color – brilliant blue or green or red will make these blocks pop. You’ll have to wait until next time to see what I create with the blocks. What fun to use up scraps and come up with something different. I get so much satisfaction from that. Use the quilter’s awl to assist with holding small pieces.

Here’s the completed block (measuring 3½”). I don’t pin and I think the accuracy is pretty good. I rely on the standard technology in the Opal 690Q such as the Exclusive Sensor System to assist with sewing and the Exclusive Sewing Advisor to set all the settings. All I had to do was guide the fabrics.

Scraps of black and white fabrics

Did you notice the potential bulky seams at the intersections? The Opal 690Q had no issues sewing over those points using the Exclusive Sensor System.

I started by sorting the pieces into four different piles.

A small scale (3½”) block The scraps have been sorted into four different piles. Blocks made with cast-off fabric scraps.

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Sharing a project Husqvarna Viking has some amazing apps for your smartphone or tablet. These apps are free to anyone who wants to download them from the appropriate app store. The one that I’m talking about is called the JoyOS Advisor. You may also find it under Husqvarna Viking JoyOS Advisor. Regardless of your sewing machine brand, you can access the app. There’s a great guide to stabilizers and numerous projects and sewing instructions. The app is even more useful when connected to a Wi-Fi enabled sewing machine, but remember I’m working with the Opal 690Q which is not Wi-Fi enabled. Imagine having your project shopping list on your phone or being in the shop and needing to buy a stabilizer and after consulting the Joy OS Advisor, you have the correct information. It’s a handy little tool.

I started by creating a New Project. I uploaded the SAME pictures of the project that I shared about sewing the perfect square in a square. I included the fabric requirements, the cutting instructions, and finally the steps to making the project. Once I was happy with the completed file, I wanted to preview the file to see what it looked like. I opened the JoyOS Advisor app on my phone and logged in to mySewnet account. Noway!!!! There’s my square in a square wall hanging project, along with two other projects that had been shared with myself. I’m so amazed by what technology can do. Husqvarna Viking is on the cutting edge of getting information out there. This is truly amazing and imagine the possibilities.

Then I got super excited and needed to test this file sharing on a Wi-Fi-enabled sewing machine. I turned on the Husqvarna Viking Designer Epic (which is WiFi-enabled) so I could see what happened with the file.

I will use that app to share my Square in a square project with you.

I logged into mySewnet on the Designer Epic and it started to synchronize my files with the mySewnet cloud.

Here’s another free tool that you can get access to. It’s a cloud-based storage area that allows you to share project files and embroidery designs with friends. Please note that copyright needs to be respected here so what you share should be your original creations. The mySewnet Cloud provides you with 100 MG of free storage space. You can access this cloud storage from the JoyOS Advisor app on your phone or tablet, or on your Wi-Fi enabled sewing machine. Seriously?? Wait! You’ll love what I’m about to do. Within mySewnet, there’s a program called Project Creator. This is where I’ll create the instructions for the Square in a Square wall hanging that I sewed the other day.

My Square in a square project is now available in my JoyOS Advisor app.

Here’s a screenshot of the description of the project. That is just so much fun. You know technology and me – sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t. This was pretty simple to figure out. I will share the project with you all. Get the instructions for the Square in a Square wall hanging. A huge thank you to Ronda for being my product tester as I figured this out and to Emily for her guidance.

The home screen for Project Creator

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The description for the Square in a square wall hanging as it appears in the JoyOS Advisor app.

Once the files were synchronized, I was looking at the app and saw this function. What is this? I pushed the button and got this message on the Designer Epic. Whoa – what’s going on? Turns out I can connect the smartphone and the Wi-Fi enabled sewing machine so I can view the same project at the same time on both screens.

Now it’s your turn. There are 5 easy steps for you to have access to this file. I can view the project on my smartphone and the Wi-FI enabled machine at the same time.

Wow!! This is incredible. I opened the mySewnet Cloud on the Designer Epic and there was my Square in a Square file. That is just the most amazing thing. If there was an embroidery design or a video I wanted to share, I can also embed those details into the project file. This opens up a huge range of possibilities.

The Square in a square project file as it appears on the Husqvarna Viking Designer Epic.

1. You need to download the Husqvarna Viking JoyOS Advisor app to your smartphone or tablet. It’s a free app for anyone to download. 2. Go to HusqvarnaViking.com and create a mySewnet account. This is free and you do NOT need a Husqvarna Viking sewing machine, although why wouldn’t you want one with this cool technology. To create the mySewnet account, there’s a mySewnet tab in the top right of the screen. 3. Log into your mySewnet account on your smartphone by opening the JoyOS Advisor app and click on the last item in the list of items that appear. It’s called mySewnet. 4. Click on this link (easier if you’re on your device which has the app) which will take you to a web page in Project Creator. At the bottom of the page, there’ll be a command to save the file to your mySewnet Cloud. Save the file which is called Square in a square. 5. Now go back to the Husqvarna Viking JoyOS Advisor app on your phone. Make sure you’re signed into mySewnet. Click on mySewnet which is the last item on the list of items. You should see the project file with the pictures and instructions.

What is

mySewnet? mySewnet™ Cloud is a service where you save and access your personal files, projects, stitches and designs, over the Internet instead of on your computer’s hard drive. Your files in mySewnet™ Cloud can be saved and accessed from different devices; your mySewnet™ enabled machine, your PC or Mac, your smartphone or tablet. mySewnet™ Cloud Sync Tool – Mac or PC is a tool to support synchronization of a local folder on your PC or Mac with the files stored in mySewnet™ Cloud.

Isn’t that just the best?

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Free motion quilting with the PFAFF quilt expression 720 Sarah Vanderburgh

Stippling Stitches The stippling stitches are what convinced me to give free motion quilting a go. There’s a whole menu of stitches to choose from! I’ve never been a fan of meandering, so seeing all of these different options – several I would never have thought of on my own – makes me feel like I can add personality to my quilting. I like to have choice and have tried out several of these stitches. The quilt expression 720 makes it easy to know what to do once you’ve picked a stitch, too. The stitch screen tells you which foot to use, if you require a stabilizer, and where the needle will start in the stitch so you can position the quilt top where you want to start stitching. And – you don’t have to use the free motion mode to use these stitches! Free motion mode PFAFF quilt expression 720

There’s always something new to learn! I’ve been quilting for a few decades and am just feeling finally ready to learn how to free motion quilt. The PFAFF quilt expression 720 is a big part of that reason. This machine not only makes sewing together a quilt top precise and easy, it’s also set up for finishing quilts too. What a concept! Here's a quick overview of the features on the quilt expression 720 that made me a confident free motion beginner. User’s Guide The manual for the quilt expression 720 is an invaluable resource of the machine’s capabilities when it comes to free motion quilting. It goes over several of the features I mention here and includes illustrations and tips for best practices. While it’s always a good idea to read through a machine’s manual to make sure you’re doing things right, it’s also a way to discover what else your machine can do. You can peruse the user guide by scrolling down this page and clicking on it on the bottom right under documents and charts.

Machine Buttons I love the buttons on this machine! Not only what they do, but also the fact that they are right in front of me above the needle when I’m sewing. You’ll notice as I work through a project I’m constantly using the buttons – I can hardly imagine not using them now. For free motion quilting specifically, I rely on being able to adjust the sewing machine’s speed with the speed slider and using the Start/Stop button to let the machine do the work of keeping the needle speed constant while I focus on moving my hands.

Free motion mode pop up

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Almost every stitch – there are over 400! – on the quilt expression 720 can be used in the free motion mode. When you touch this icon in the Color Touch Screen, a pop up comes giving you even more options. You can select one of the three different types of feet that can be used to free motion quilt with this machine. Once you select an option, the feed dogs automatically lower. Then you touch OK and you’re ready to go! Remember you can preview all the stitches through the menus built into the quilt expression 720. You can also view a stitch guide through the PFAFF website here.

Photos by Sarah Vanderburgh

Buttons on quilt expression 720

Presser feet The quilt expression 720 comes with 10 presser feet, one to use with the free motion mode. There are several optional feet you can also get that work with this machine to perfect your free motion quilting. The embroidery/ sensormatic free motion foot 6A comes with the machine and is the third option in the free motion pop up window. I like how this foot frames the area I’m working in to help focus my attention on what the machine is stitching. Have I convinced you yet? The PFAFF quilt expression 720 is really set up to let you successfully create a quilt from the block assembly to quilting. The features are there ready and waiting with tips and guidance along the way. Join me as I make a project to practice my free motion quilting using the quilt expression 720.

Sensormatic free motion foot 6A

Making a quilted banner for your sewing space I’m finally doing it! I have wanted to make myself a banner for my sewing space – forever. I combined my desire to create with my determination to learn something new and am really happy with the results. Maybe you need a quilted banner too?! Did you guess it would be in rainbow colors? Of course yours doesn’t have to spell what mine does; in fact there are several trendy 7 letter words out there including, INSPIRE and IMAGINE. You could also make a banner in different colors or with more sections – I’m tempted to make one that spells PUMPKINS, but am resisting. Regardless, follow along and see how I mastered my fear of free motion quilting and made this cute quilted banner in the process.

Quilted sewing room banner

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materials fabric

• 7 different color fabrics, each measuring 6'' x 11'' long

• ½ yard of fabric for letters, backing and binding

thread

• neutral piecing thread • matching thread for each color of fabric

other • ½ yard of fusible fleece • fusible webbing • Fast and Easy Tear-A-Way Light • letters template • banner section template

For the middle green section on my banner I decided to use pieced green selvage fabric which is something I enjoy doing. See my tutorial on how to make selvage fabric. I didn’t quilt this section but I did add some decorative stitches built into the quilt expression 720. I used the sewing machine stitch (stitch 6.3.1) and a heart stitch (stitch 6.1.5) in green thread. All that’s left is to make sure the quilt expression 720 is ready to quilt. Insert a quilting needle, make sure the bobbin case is clean, and wind some bobbins to match each color of thread you’ll be using.

Decorative stitches on selvage section of banner

Prepare fabrics for quilting Cut a piece of fusible fleece for each of the 6'' x 11'' fabric pieces and fuse it in place. Trace the letters onto the fusible webbing of your choice and fuse to the backing fabric. Cut out the letters and set them aside until quilting the fabric pieces is done.

Bobbins and presser foot tray

Cutting fusible fleece

1’’ Test Square

Line up letter and center between these marks

1” test square

Enlarge both templates by 200%

* Quilted Banner Template Svanderburgh2019

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Free motion the easy way with the PFAFF quilt expression 720 Sometimes you need someone to hold your hand when trying something new. The PFAFF quilt expression 720 is definitely userfriendly when it comes to starting the free motion quilting journey. That’s right, you can use the stippling stitches on the quilt expression 720 just like regular stitches. Select a stitch then attach the presser foot indicated on the Color Touch Screen. For example, I chose a closed looped stippling stitch, stitch 2.2.5, for the dark purple fabric. The recommended presser foot is Fancy stitch foot 1A for IDT system which is included with the machine. The IDT system engages with this foot and helps feed the fabrics evenly under the needle. This is when I start to use some of those buttons I mentioned. I slow the speed of the machine down by long touching on the speed button. I use the Needle Up/ Down button to keep the needle in the fabric and use it like a third hand while guiding the fabric – the presser foot then hovers above the fabric to make it easy to pivot the fabric to check on my stitching. I also use the Start/Stop button and let the machine do all the work of moving the needle at an even speed. For the light purple fabric I used my neutral thread and stippling stitch 2.2.11. I quilted the stitch up and down the short width of the fabric because I thought this stitch mimicked the shape of an “S” nicely which is the letter that will be appliqued on this piece later.

Here’s a photo showing the Color Touch Screen with my stitch selected for the red fabric. You can see in the upper left, I lowered the machine’s overall speed and beside that you can see what the stitch will look like. Not only that but the screen shows how the stitch is lined up with the presser foot so you know where a stitch will start. For all of the stitches, each time I completed a row I tried to remember to press the Stitch Restart button so that each row started in the same place. This let me have a predictable repeat. Of course, I forgot once or twice, but no big deal! It would be hard for me to go back now and show you where I forgot. Actually, I caught myself on the red fabric and stopped and took out a few stitches then restarted that row. You can also see on the Color Touch Screen that I could change the stitch density, stitch width and thread tension for the stitch as well. I didn’t, but it’s fun to know that I have options. If I had wanted to, I could fit this stitch into a smaller sashing or manipulate it for a design.

Stitch in Color Touch Screen

Stippling stitch 2.2.11

Here are the columns of stitch 2.2.10. I started this one on the left side of the fabric and moved right. This is another choice you can make! Quilting these fabrics didn’t take long at all. Actually, it was quite easy and fun to try out several of the stippling stitches that come with the PFAFF quilt expression 720.

Stippling stitch 2.2.12 with presser foot

Stitch 2.2.10 in red thread on red fabric

Stitch on Color Touch Screen

On the blue fabric I quilted with blue thread, again going up and down on the shorter side, stippling stitch 2.2.12 which reminded me of a “W”. Can you see how much fun I was having?! This stitch required the Maxi-stitch foot 8, also included with the machine.

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User friendly free motion quilting with PFAFF quilt expression 720 What’s the difference between quilting a quilt and free motion quilting? Quilting is the term for stitching through three layers of fabric to secure them. Free motion quilting is when the quilter is fully in charge of moving the quilt and when done on a domestic sewing machine, this usually means that the feed dogs that help feed the fabric under the needle are lowered and it’s up to the quilter to move the quilt under the needle. Maybe that sounds easy, but moving the quilt with your hands under the needle so that the stitches are still and even, takes practice. And that’s what I decided I would do for the last two sections of the banner. I used the regular sewing stitch and touched the free motion mode icon. I selected the Spring foot free-motion setting and attached the open toe free motion foot. There’s a little screw at the top of the presser foot area that part of the foot goes in to attach it to the machine. I used my neutral thread to stitch on the yellow fabric and lowered the machine speed to the lowest option. This is one of the first tips about free motion quilting I heard many years ago: have the machine set at its lowest speed so you can still press all the way down on the foot pedal. In this case, I used the Start/Stop button so I could just focus on moving the fabric with my hands.

While I’m not sharing a closeup of my yellow section, I wasn’t disappointed. I knew it would look like beginner free motion and I did use it for my banner. I think it will be fun to look back one day and wonder why it took me so long to try free motion quilting!

Once cut out, use the template with the window and guide marks to center each letter in its section. Peel the paper off the webbing and iron to fuse the letter in place.

In addition to the quilt expression 720 being set up to make free motion quilting an easy option, I also referred to Pat Sloan’s machine quilting book to show me a few beginner stitches to try. On my orange sample, I tried doing the loops of squares. My first sample I was going too fast and my stitches were really pulling. Then I remembered what it sounded like when the machine was doing the work and how rhythmic the stitching was. I decided to try again and paid more attention to the speed of my hands and was pleasantly surprised with my second attempt! Check it out!

Two samples of free motion quilting.

Use template to position letters.

Now it’s time to stitch around each letter. I used purple thread to stitch around all of the letters. I used stitch 2.1.6 and attached the Clear Open Toe Foot for IDT system to let me see the edge of the fabric and watch where the stitch was landing and to keep turning the fabric as needed. I’m pretty happy after finally doing some free motion quilting and pleased with the results. It definitely isn’t hard, but does require practice! I think the features on the quilt expression 720 helped push me into the land of free motion. I really want to finish my banner and get back to finishing quilts!

Now that all of the sections are quilted, it’s time to cut each one out using the banner template.

I’m pretty happy after finally doing some free motion quilting and pleased with the results. It definitely isn’t hard, but does require practice! Clear Open Toe Foot for IDT system Cut out quilted sections for banner.

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Tidy topstitching makes the Sew Joy quilted banner sparkle!

Quilted banner

To finish the banner we first need to sew the backing fabric to each of the sections. If you haven’t already, cut a backing for each fabric using the banner template. To sew the backing fabric to each section I used my neutral thread. The quilt expression 720 will need a few accessory changes to get ready too. The machine comes with a straight stitch plate and I inserted it now to do the rest of the stitching. I also switched to the ¼'' quilting foot that is included with the machine.

Straight stitch plate and ¼'' quilting foot

With right sides facing, sew the backing fabric to a quilted front banner section leaving the top edge open. The outer edge of the ¼'' quilting foot is a ¼'' away from the needle and can be used to make consistent seam allowance; press the Needle Up/Down button and sew guiding the foot around the edge.

Straight stitch plate and ¼'' quilting foot

Turn the banner section right sight out through the top edge then smooth the section flat with your fingers. At this point I topstitched around each section using the same color thread that I used for the free motion quilting.

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Here you can see my free motion quilting on the yellow section. I’m still using the ¼'' quilting foot for the topstitching because the inner edge is 1⁄8'' from the needle which is the typical distance for topstitching. Again using the Needle Up/ Down button I’m able to guide the edge of the section smoothly under the needle. I did the yellow and light purple sections first, then switched the thread and bobbin for each banner section and topstitched them. The banner sections are ready and now we just need the binding. I cut one strip of the backing fabric 1½'' x the width of the fabric which was 42''. I pressed a ¼'' hem to the wrong side of the binding. Straight stitch plate and ¼'' quilting foot

Pinning the binding to the back of banner sections

Next lay out the letters in reverse order but with letters still in the correct orientation and then turn them over so the backing side is up. Fold the binding in half and mark with a pin, then pin the center of the middle section with the pin marking the center of the binding on the non folded edge. Pin the sections to the binding leaving approximately 2'' space between them – I used the lines on my cutting mat to help with this step. Using the neutral thread and a ¼'' seam, sew the binding to the sections. I also sewed over the binding in the spaces to secure the turned edge. Fold the remaining binding in half then turn to front and sew the binding to the front to complete the banner. I folded the binding edges inside the end and stitched over it to secure the cut edge – I may sew ric rac to the ends if I want the banner longer at a later date. It was so satisfying to see my completed banner. I love looking at the texture created by the free motion quilting. I know that it was the features on the quilt expression 720 that gave me the confidence to finally create this for myself. You can be sure it’ll boost your confidence too to free motion quilt. I wonder what I’ll create next!

Sarah Vanderburgh sewjoycreations.com PFAFF quilt expression 720

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GET THE RIGHT SEWING MACHINE FOR YOU!

JADE™ 20

DESIGNER BRILLIANCE™ 80 Sewing & Embroidery Machine

Sewing & Embroidery Machine

• 82 beautiful 7mm wide stitches • LED Display • 200mm sewing space • Sewing guide • Needle stop up/down

• Over 550 stitches & 5 sewing fonts plus over 565 embroidery designs & 5 embroidery fonts • Large colour display with capacitive touch (7”, 154x86mm ) • 250mm large sewing space & embroider up to 360x350mm with optional hoop • JoyOS ADVISOR™ feature • Interchangeable Dual Feed foot included

• 120 stitches & 2 sewing fonts plus 70 embroidery designs & 1 embroidery font • Stitches are shown in real size on the Graphic Display • 200mm sewing space & embroider up 240x150mm • Exclusive SEWING ADVISOR™ feature • Embroidery Intro PC software included

Sewing Machine

DESIGNER JADE™ 35

THE BEST JUST GOT BETTER! Introducing the New Top-of-the-Line DESIGNER EPIC™ 2 Sewing & Embroidery Machine

NEW MACHINE FEATURES • Integrated Dual Feed technology • Additional front feed teeth for exceptional fabric feeding • Adjustable Laser Sewing Guidance projects directly on your fabric to easily line up your stitches • Impactful 9mm decorative stitches • Optional Multi-Function Foot Control – controls multiple functions of your machine INDUSTRY LEADING FEATURES • mySewnet™ Library – Browse through thousands of embroidery designs on your DESIGNER EPIC™ 2 screen via the optional mySewnet™ Library subscription for that perfect design • Ribbon Embroidery Attachment – Stitch down ribbon in embroidery mode in all directions with the optional Ribbon Embroidery Attachment • Laser Pictogram Stitches • Design Placement through mySewmonitor™ APP

Coming in October 2019 at Participating Dealers

VIKING, DESIGNER EPIC, JADE, DESIGNER JADE, DESIGNER BRILIANCE, MYSEWNET, JOYOS ADVISOR, SEWING ADVISOR and MYSEWMONITOR are exclusive trademarks of KSIN Luxembourg II, S.a.r.l. HUSQVARNA and the “H” Crown Device are trademarks of Husqvarna AB and are used under license. ©2019 KSIN Luxembourg II, S.a.r.l. All rights reserved.

www.husqvarnaviking.com/en-CA

Recycling denims using Coats Dual Duty XP and Plus threads Lynn Brown

Coats DENIM thread, ideal for all your denim sewing needs.

What can you do with denim pants you no longer want to wear, other than getting rid of them? Let us suggest a few creative and practical ideas! Most start with a denim garment as the base and then are embellished or restyled. So hit the thrift store or your closet and get started. Let’s start with the Denim Organizer using these threads: Coats Dual Duty thread for Jeans, excellent abrasion resistance for jean repair and embellishment Coats Dual Duty thread for Jeans is one option – match the color to your denims.

OR Coats Dual Duty Plus DENIM thread to match denim, • All-purpose weight cotton-covered polyester and the color blends when sewing or mending jeans • New Trap spool holds the thread neatly and securely

You can find out more about these threads by following the provided links. This fun organizer, designed by Lynn Brown of Coats & Clark, made from the legs of cut-off jeans is a great project for summer teen sewing classes. The finished hem of the jeans creates the top of the pockets so that there is no need to bind the edge. This project can be embellished in many ways. We used machine embroidery and decorative stitches. Other options include hand embroidery, rick rack or other trims or applique. It could also be personalized and the pockets labeled. Get the full instructions in a downloadable PDF for the Denim Organizer. On to another fun denim idea using Coats Dual Duty XP and Plus thread collections.

and Coats Polyester Embroidery thread colors 182 Spark Gold and 51 Chona Brown were used in this project.

Here’s one super idea to recycle those jeans you no longer use and still feel good about making more use of them. It’s both creative and practical.

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Photos courtesy of Coats & Clark

The beauty and strength of a denim note book cover Denim Book Cover: strength meets elegance; free pattern using Coats Denim and Jean threads

Next, we suggest using denim fabric to cover a notebook, but see how elegant this is? The pocket is so handy for placing writing tools, business cards, or cell phone? Designed by Linda Turner Griepentrog, the Denim Book Cover is further enhanced by the stitching and thread used. It’s fun to find an embellished pocket and repurpose it. Adding topstitching with Coats Jeans Thread accents the pocket. The threads used for this project are: Coats Dual Duty XP All-purpose thread in coordinating color and Coats Jeans thread It’s in making the small things that we get the confidence to try the greater projects, try out this denim book cover. Whether you’re covering a binder, a book, or a composition notebook, recycled denim is a great way to go. Denim Book Cover sewn using threads: Denim, Jean Topstitching and All Purpose threads by Coats

Coats Dual Duty XP All Purpose thread in yummy red

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Making the Shirr Thing Bag Here's an everyday denim bag with fun shirring on the front. The secret? Using heavyweight Jeans thread to make the shirring!

fabric. A trendy synonym for shirring is ruched. To make this bag choose a softer denim from your collection instead of a sturdier option.

Three threads make these cool recycling projects fabulous. Coats Dual Duty Plus and Dual Duty XP collections with an emphasis on Denim, Jeans Topstitching, and All Purpose threads. The Shirr Think Bag is a brilliant design by Linda Turner Griepentrog, and you can download the free pattern and templates by clicking on the photo. Shirring is sewing with elastic thread in the bobbin of your sewing machine to create a smocked appearance on your

All the thread you need for sewing with denim from Coats Dual Duty XP and Plus collections: All Purpose, Jean Topstitching, and Denim threads

Right on trend: a shirred bag sewn with Coats Dual Duty XP Denim and Jean Thread

Denim Bracelet Trio, no one will ever guess! Denim accessories couldn’t be hotter, whether you choose a bleached option, indigo print or solid navy these denim bracelets rock. Topstitched with Coats Jeans thread, they are simple to make, so make one or two or three! Coats Dual Duty XP All-purpose thread, Coats Jeans thread, and Coats Denim thread make the Denim Bracelet Trio stand out. Check out the stitching on these, and see how you can add your own special touch by adding embroidery to the fabric strips or decorative stitches. You’re the boss, and no one will ever guess they are part of a recycling denim project! Denim Bracelet Trio can be made simply as shown, or perhaps try adding your own embroidery or decorative stitches before assembly.

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Band Together Tote gets everyone smiling Just like the Denim Bracelets Trio, here’s another recycling denim project that stretches the imagination. The Band Together Tote however, did bring a smile to my face for its ingenuity. While the Shirr Think Bag required a softer, lighter weight denim fabric, the Band Together Tote is made of ‘fabric’ that is inherently sturdy to begin with. Using the jeans waist bands makes the fabric very solid, as if ‘stabilized’. This is a sturdy tote! Whether you have old jeans around the house, or you’re a thrift store shopper, this casual bag is a great way to showcase the waistbands. And, you can save the rest for other recycling projects. A hint of the stripe lining bands the top and a handy fob keeps your keys within easy reach. I enjoyed sharing five ways to recycle denim projects with you. I hope you’ll explore your own creativity by adding your own personal touch to the suggested denim projects. These great ideas have all been designed by Coats’ very own Linda Turner Griepentrog. Denim, Jean Topstitching, and All Purpose threads, from the Coats Dual Duty XP and Plus thread collections, are your best companions in reaching your creative goals. Enjoy!

The jean waistband makes for a solid foundation for this Band Together Tote. Coats Denim, Jean Topstitching and All Purpose threads used to recycle denim.

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Quilting for baby Tummy Time Mat Tummy Tim skill level Intermediate

Carla A. Canonico

finished measurements 36” x 36” [91.44 x 91.44cm]

materials • Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP® All-purpose Thread • 1⁄4 yd each of 8 assorted fabric prints for mat • 1⁄4 yd each of 4 different coordinating solid colors for prairie point border • 1 yd backing fabric • triangle template • template plastic

• Tummy Time Mat template

Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP® All-purpose Thread is 100% polyester thread useful for hand sewing and machine sewing. Use hand needles 7, 8 and machine needles 11, 14 for best results. This project designed by Linda Turner Griepentrog, uses sewing and quilting and can be completed in a weekend, but you know, there’s no rush.

Tummy Time Mat

preparation Trace the triangle onto template plastic and cut out.

Linda says, “Every baby needs some tummy time. This padded mat makes a safe place to put them down for tummy exercise. It’s convenient size makes it easy to take when visiting.”

cutting WOF = Width of Fabric From each 1⁄4 yd fabric print, cut: (1) strip, 6½” x WOF; alternating directions, sub-cut (10) triangles across the fabric width From each 1⁄4 yd solid fabric, cut: (8) squares, 5” From backing fabric, cut: (1) circle, 32” diameter Note: Seam allowances are 1⁄4”.

The back of the Tummy Time Mat

TEMPLATE

m) quare should

ure 1" x 1"

ACTUAL SIZE

m x 2.54cm)

emplates before cutting to confirm printing at 100%***

n printed.

CS0513

makeitcoats.com

Version 1.0

3 of 3

assemble the mat top assemble the prairie point border easure1. templates before cutting to confirm printing at Randomly lay out six rows of twelve 1. 100%*** Press each solid square in half. Fold the short triangles each, alternating direction. ends to meet the lower cut edges, forming a CS0513 ght Coats 2019 Version 1.0(not the the seam allowances 2. ©Matching folded point at the top center edge. Press firmly. cut ends), sew the triangles together in 2. Continue folding and pressing all the 5” each row. Note that you will have some squares into prairie points. triangles leftover for another project. 3. With the folds and triangular points facing the right side of the mat, pin the prairie 3. Offset the adjacent rows, matching the point of one triangle to the center of the base of points evenly around the mat perimeter the adjacent triangle. Sew the rows together matching the cut edges and overlapping in order. Press all seams in one direction. as needed to fit. You may have extra prairie 4. Layer the batting and pieced triangle top points, depending on your overlap distance. wrong sides together. Quilt as desired. Baste in place. 5. Cut a 32” diameter circle from the quilted top. 4. Double check all the prairie points to be sure none got tucks or shifted during basting.

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assemble the mat 1. With right sides together, place the backing fabric onto the quilted mat top, matching cut edges. 2. Sew around the mat perimeter, leaving a 5” opening. 3. Turn the mat right side out through the opening, pulling out the prairie points evenly, and press flat. 4. Hand-stitch the opening closed.

Coats Dual Duty XP All Purpose Thread – Strong and smooth medium weight thread perfect for hand and machine sewing on all fabrics

mak

Your Favorite Thread Brand With over 350 colors, Coats Dual Duty XPÂŽ has exceptional performance and durability for hand and machine sewing on all fabrics.

makeitcoats.com Coats & Clark, Greer, SC 29650

Dresden Delight quilt block skill level Experienced Beginner finished measurements 14'' square materials • Coats® Cotton Covered Piecing and Quilting thread, to match background and fabric • Coats Dual Duty XP® Heavy • coordinate with fabric color • assorted scraps or (5) 1⁄8 yd cuts of fabric for wedges • ¼ yd or scrap fabric for Dresden center • 19 assorted buttons in coordinating colors • ½ yd ecru print background fabric • ½ yd cotton batting • 6” square lightweight fusible interfacing • 14” square pillow form • 2 yds ready-made piping • plastic template material • zipper foot I have a bright and inspiring sewing project designed by Linda Turner Griepentrog, called Dresden Delight. She originally made it for a cushion cover, but if you love the Dresden plate design you can make several of these blocks to make a quilt.

preparation

For piecing the Dresden pieces use Coats® Cotton Covered Piecing and Quilting Thread, and construct the cushion cover using Coats Dual Duty XP® Heavy Thread.

From the assorted scraps or 1⁄8 yd cuts, cut: • (20) wedges

Trace the wedge and circle patterns onto template material and cut out. cutting

From the ecru background fabric, cut:

• (2) squares, 14½”

Coats® Cotton Covered Piecing and Quilting Thread has the feel and look of cotton with the strength of polyester.

From the batting, cut:

• (1) square, 15”

Coats Dual Duty XP® Heavy offers consistent tension and excellent stitch formation. This heavyweight thread is smooth, very strong, colorfast and weather resistant. Excellent for interior and exterior upholstery fabrics. Featuring coats Dual Duty XP, Linda says the classic Dresden Plate design is the perfect embellishment for this bright and cheery pillow. The scrappy look and button accents make it ideal for stash utilization, as both components can be totally an eclectic mix.

Coats Dual Duty XP Heavy offers consistent tension and excellent stitch formation. This heavyweight thread is smooth, very strong, colorfast and weather resistant. Excellent for interior and exterior upholstery fabrics.

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Note: Seam allowances are ¼”.

Coats Cotton Covered Piecing & Quilting Thread – The feel and look of cotton with the strength of polyester.

Preparing the Dresden Plate 1. Fold each wedge right sides together and sew across the large flat end. Finger-press the seams open. 2. Turn the point right side out and center the seam exactly. Press the point flat. 3. Matching the upper edges, sew the wedge long edges together in pairs, then in groups of five. Press all seams open.

Dresden De Dresden Delight TEMPLATES ACTUAL SIZE

Wedge Cut 20 Wedge Assorted

Cut 20 Assorted

Wedge

Center

Cut 20 Assorted

4. Sew the wedge groups together to form a circle. 5. Fold one ecru square in half and in half again and lightly press the es before cutting to confirm printing at 100%*** folds to mark the center and quarter mplates before cutting to confirm 100%*** points. Repeat for theprinting Dresdenatcircle. CS0409 Version 1.0 6. Matching quarter points, center the Dresden circle over CS0409 2017 Version 1.0the background square and pin in place. utting to confirm printing at 100%*** 7. Using coordinating thread, sew the outer Dresden points to the Version 1.0 background square. 8. To prepare the center, place the Dresden center circle right sides down on the fusible side of the interfacing square. Sew around the circle edges and trim the interfacing to match the circle. Carefully cut away the center of the interfacing layer only, leaving ½” of fusible interfacing intact around the circle edges. 9. Turn the interfacing to the wrong side of the circle and finger-press the edges.

Cut 1Center fabric Cut 1 fusible Cutinterfacing 1 fabric

Cut 1 fusible interfacing Center

Cut 1 fabric Cut 1 fusible interfacing

10. Center the circle over the Dresden circle and press in place, tucking the interfacing under at the edges. Edgestitch around the circle. Quilting the Pillow Top 1. Layer the pillow front over the batting square. Using matching thread, sew three circles around the Dresden plate, about 1⁄8” apart. Bring the thread ends to the underside and tie off. 2. Position the assorted buttons between the wedge points and hand-stitch using Heavy Thread to attach. 3. Trim the batting to match the pillow front size.

3. Using a zipper foot, sew around three sides of the pillow and 1” around the corners onto the fourth side, but leave the remainder of the fourth side open for stuffing. Stitch as close to the piping cord as possible, using a makeitcoats.com left needle position if your machine has it. makeitcoat 4. Trim the corners to reduce bulk and turn the pillow right side out. Gently poke out the corners. makeitcoats.com 3 of 3 5. Insert the pillow form, pushing it all the way into the corners. 6. Hand-stitch the opening closed.

Finishing the Pillow 1. Baste the piping to the pillow edges, clipping corners to turn and overlapping the joining ends. 2. With right sides together, layer the pillow front and back squares, matching the edges.

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Thinking of fall, a quilted runner

Coats Dual Duty XP All Purpose Thread – Strong and smooth medium weight thread perfect for hand and machine sewing on all fabrics

Here’s a Halloween Runner by Turner Griepentrog, using the very versatile, Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP® All-purpose Thread and Coats Machine Quilting Cotton Thread Coats Dual Duty XP All Purpose Thread is 100% polyester thread useful for hand sewing and machine sewing. Use hand needles 7, 8 and machine needles 11, 14 for best results. Coats Machine Quilting Cotton Thread – Excellent machine sewability on natural fibers. Ideal for piecing and quilting. Add some pumpkin pizzazz to your holiday decor with this pieced table runner. Whether you use scraps from your quilting stash or yardage, it’s a fun combo of Halloween spirit. skill level Intermediate finished measurements 12½” x 40½” materials • Coats Dual Duty XP All-purpose Thread • CoatsCotton Machine Quilting thread • assorted scraps of orange prints OR 1⁄8 yd cuts of assorted orange prints • 5⁄8 yd black background fabric includes binding • 5” square green fabric, for stems • 7⁄8 yd backing fabric • ½ yd batting

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From assorted orange print fabrics, cut: (67) 2½” squares (4) 27⁄8” squares From black background fabric, cut: (4) 27⁄8” [7.30cm] squares (2) 2½” x 10½” strips, for pumpkin bottom borders (4) 2½” x 5” strips, for stem section (2) 1½” x 12½”, for center side borders (2) 1½” x 14½”, for center top/bottom borders (3) 2½” x width-of-fabric (WOF) strips, for binding From green fabric, cut: (2) 1½” x 2½” strips, for stems From backing fabric, cut: (2) 15” x WOF strips Note: Seam allowances are 1⁄4”.

Assemble Pumpkin Blocks 1. For each pumpkin, lay out two rows of five 2½” orange print squares and two rows of three squares. Sew the squares together in each row and press seams in alternate directions for adjacent rows. 2. Sew the five-square rows together and press the seam in one direction. 3. To make the corners, draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each 27⁄8” orange square. Place the marked square right sides together with a 27⁄8” black background square. Sew 1⁄4” on each side of the marked line. Cut along the drawn line to make halfsquare triangle units (HST). Open the triangles and press seams toward the black background. Trim to 2½” square, if needed. 4. Following the runner photo for orientation, sew a HST to each end of the three-square rows to form the pumpkin corners. 5. Sew a corner row to the top and another to the bottom of the fivesquare rows. Make two pumpkin blocks. 6. To make the stem, sew a 2½” x 5” background strip to each side of the green stem strip. Press seams toward the stem. 7. Sew a stem row to each pieced pumpkin top. 8. Sew a 2½” x 10½” black background strip to the lower edge of each pumpkin.

Assemble the Runner Center 1. Lay out thirty-five 2½” orange squares in five rows of seven blocks each. Sew the squares together in each row, pressing seams in alternate directions for adjacent rows. Sew the rows together, matching adjacent seams. Press seams in one direction. 2. Sew a 1½” x 14½” black background strip to the top and another to the bottom of the pieced section. Press seams toward the borders. 3. Sew a 1½” x 12½” black background strip to each side of the pieced section. Press seams toward the borders.

Finishing 1. Sew the binding strips end to end using diagonal seams. Press the binding in half wrong sides together. 2. Place the binding on the right side of the runner matching raw edges. Sew in place, mitering the corners. 3. Turn the binding to the runner underside and hand- stitch the folded edge to the backing.

Assemble the Runner 1. Lay out a pumpkin block at each end of the pieced center block, with the stems facing the center. 2. Sew a pumpkin block to each end of the center block and press seams toward the borders. 3. Sew the backing strips together end to end and trim to 45” long. 4. With wrong sides together, layer the backing, batting and runner top. 5. Quilt as desired using cotton machine quilting thread. 6. Trim the backing and batting to match the runner top.

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Holiday Mini Quilts

other • beads • cotton batting • two 1⁄4” ribbon pieces cut 2” long • one pkg 3⁄8” grosgrain ribbon for hanging • Holiday Mini Quilts PDF Templates Cutting From background fabric: (5) rectangles 5½” x 6½” From the five different fabrics for backings and binding: (1) binding strip 2¼” x 26” from each fabric for binding (1) rectangle 5” x 6” from each fabric for backing Sewing

Here’s an adorable holiday garland made up of Holiday Mini Quilts to deck your home with warmth! It features Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP® All-purpose Thread and Coats Dual Duty Plus Hand Quilting Thread. Making these adorable “mini” quilts is easy! Then, comes the hard part. Should they be mug mats? Or maybe tree ornaments, or holiday greeting “cards”, or maybe a banner as shown here. skill level Beginner finished measurements 5'' x 6'' each mini quilt materials fabric • variety of scraps of holiday fabrics including batiks for appliques • ¼ yd light-colored neutral background fabric • ¼ yd each five different fabrics for backings and binding threads

• Coats Dual Duty® all-purpose • Coats Dual Duty Plus® Hand Quilting thread • Coats® Beading Thread (optional)

Base quilts: 1. Layer the 5½” x 6½” background rectangles with cotton batting. 2. Using Coats Dual Duty Plus® Hand Quilting thread, quilt following the pattern in the fabric or if there is none, quilt lines approximately ½” apart. Leave about ¼” unquilted so that when you trim the finished applique, you will not cut off starting knots. 3. Quilt all of the background rectangles. 4. Using the pattern templates on page 3 – 7 cut out the applique pieces from scraps. 5. Pin the appliques on the quilted background pieces following the assembly guides as needed. 6. For the stocking and the ornament, insert the raw ends of ribbon pieces, folded as shown in the photographs. 7. Using Coats® Hand Quilting thread, stitch the pieces in place using a running stitch approximately 1⁄8” from the edge of the fabrics. 8. Decorate the appliques with some beads using beading thread. Binding 1. Trim the finished pieces to 5” x 6”. 2. Place the backing in place and baste the layers together. 3. Fold the 2¼” x 26” binding strips in half lengthwise, wrong sides together and press. 4. Stitch the binding to the mini quilts, mitering the corners. 5. Fold to the wrong side and stitch in place. 6. If desired, wash and dry. Washing gives the mini-quits a softer look with more dimension. 7. To hang, place on ribbon and pin, to determine the placement. Then stitch the mini quilts to the ribbon.

Carla A. Canonico QUILTsocial.com

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Exploring the vast embroidery capabilities of the Brother Luminaire XP1 Liana Kirkey

Also built-in to the Luminaire are over 30 video tutorials! I’m a monkey-see, monkey-do learner, so these videos are great! In poking around onscreen and playing, I’ve discovered (ask me how) that this new screen likes your finger pad (or the included soft-tipped-stylus), but not your fingernail.

See how big the Luminaire is? I measured 37'' left to right! And oh – that screen!

When asked to write about embroidery on the Brother Luminaire Innov-is XP1 (aka the Luminaire), my first thought was, “Um…wanna narrow that topic down a bit?” Fortunately, or unfortunately, that task was left to me. That’s a good thing, because I’m kinda a bit of a control freak, so getting to decide what to play with and discuss is right up my alley. But the challenge, came in that very “thing”: I know the Luminaire does so much – so how do I distill its potential into anything less lengthy than an epic novel? With pictures? If you’re a long-time reader of QUILTsocial and read my posts on the Brother NQ3500D a few years back, you might recall I like to “start at the very beginning – a very good place to start!”. And now that you’re humming along with me… According to the brochure and spec sheet, The Brother Luminaire boasts a long list of what promises to be some very cool features – some of which gave me pause. I remember thinking, “But what does that mean?”. Over the course of this feature, I’ll review and explore them together with you and really get to know this sewing, quilting, and embroidery machine – at least the embroidery part of it, and especially those 'mysterious' features. So let’s get set up and start exploring this baby, stepby-step…

The Luminaire is one BIG deal! My first impression of the Luminaire is it’s big and bold and bright, and so is the touchscreen! Let’s tackle that one first: diagonally, it measures 10.1” (5.3” x 8.5”) and its high-definition display supports the kind of sliding, swiping, scrolling, and pinching we do with our phones. Love it! It’s crystal clear and easy on the eyes. All of those add up to “a really good thing”, because the instruction manuals are all built-into the machine and you can zoom in for close-ups if you like (if you still prefer hard copies, you can download printable manuals from Brother’s support pages).

The needle-to-body measurement of the Luminaire is over 13”! Of course, that’s why it can support Brother’s largest embroidery hoop to date: 105⁄8” x 16”. And by the way, this new, extra-large hoop has grippy surfaces Four embroidery frames included with the Brother Luminaire. on the inner frame to hold onto your fabric, and a spring lever on the clamp to make hooping and unhooping easier. Speaking of hoops, the Luminaire comes with four: 4” x 4”, 5” x 7”, 9½” x 9½”, and the biggie, 105⁄8” x 16”. I’ve stabilized and hooped some fabric in the 9½” square hoop (perfect for quilters!) and slid it onto the machine – just slide and latch. The Luminaire even recognizes the hoop size. I just love this foolproof system! The picture shows what I meant by bright – even in a dark room, the 13” surround lighting (8 LEDs) lights up the machine bed so it’s easy to read the spec sheet. Being able to see the finest detail while I’m working Even with room lights off, the Luminaire’s lighting is very important to me. I don’t know lights up your project as brightly as it does this spec sheet! about you but my eyes aren’t getting any better!

Soooo many built-in embroidery designs! There’s a grand total of 1157 embroidery designs built-in to this baby, 192 of them featuring Disney® and Pixar® characters. I love browsing through the Design Guides (the catalog of the Luminaire’s built-in patterns) and imagining all the projects I wish I had time to create! Wanna sneak peek? You can download these guide and manuals here. You’ll find everything from floral, children’s designs, animals, sports, steampunk, Photos by Liana Kirkey

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medallions, quilting patterns, to tattoo art and more. Go ahead, check them out – I can almost hear your oohs and ahhs already!

Threading couldn’t be easier! I got a wonderful surprise when I opened the top cover of the Luminaire: the lid flipped over completely towards the back, forming a tray that’s perfect to hold threads, bobbins, etc at the ready. And even better, it has a thread stand that secures magnetically into the cover – that’s so cool! It took me a minute to be able to thread the top guides smoothly (I’m used to a simple drop-in, or left-to-right threading) and these go right-to-left. Threading the numbered and diagrammed needle path is pretty much the same as on other Brother machines, and you gotta love the totally automatic needle threader! Just push a button and voilà! Done!

Shown here are just two of many design menu screens on the Brother Luminaire.

Five different fill capacities for bobbin winding (inset: bobbin winding screen offers speed control).

As to bobbin winding, you can flick a switch to set any one of 5 different fill levels, which I can see working really well for some sewing or embellishing projects; but for embroidery, I’m just happy to fill ‘er up – at medium fill speed, of course, which is controllable onscreen. And truth be told, I usually fill up a whole bunch of them to keep on hand, don’t you? So I’ve picked a built-in design from the Design Guide to try out. Stabilized fabric is in the hoop, the Luminaire is threaded top and bobbin. We’re just about ready to touch the green GO button and let the machine start workin’ its magic: Ready, set…

The Luminaire’s with its top cover open and thread stand in place.

Psych! Don’t you just hate it when your favorite show is just getting to the good part and then it’s… to be continued? You see… there’s a catch. Can you spot it in the picture? That’s right – the green go button isn’t green… it’s still red. There are a few steps I’ve left out, and until they’re complete, the Luminairewon’t give the all-clear to stitch. In this feature I'll share the workflow of the embroidery screens. There are some nifty tools tucked into the Brother Luminaire Innov-is XP1 that you won’t want to miss!

The Brother Luminaire threaded and – almost – ready to sew!

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Embroidery screen workflow of the Brother Luminaire Innov-is XP1 The Brother Luminaire is almost ready to start stitching.

You’ve all heard it said that beauty comes from within, and I touched on the more than 1100 built-in embroidery designs. But… the elegant simplicity of the Luminaire hides so many practical and fun tools and toys to play with. The plan is to discuss the workflow of the embroidery screens, from design selection to stitch-out. I did stabilize and hoop some fabric, threaded up, and poked around on screen to find a design, at which point my Luminaire gave me a red no-go button instead of the expected green go button.

The Luminaire’s main design selection menu

Let me back up and share what I did to get to that point… and why I’m not ready to stitch. From the Luminaire’s home screen, I selected Embroidery, then the standard design menu, and then I perused the designs in the categorized tabbed menus until I found a pretty, two-colored feather design that suited the hoop size I’d loaded. But… even though I can see the design on my screen, this is just a preview, it’s not ready for stitching. I can view this preview even larger by touching the icon just below the home button – see it there in the top right corner of the last window? By touching the preview button, I can see the design in my selected hoop, or I can magnify the design to fill the screen. That’s not even the coolest part – with the preview simulator, I can even watch it stitch out on screen! Wanna watch a movie with me? Grab your popcorn and check this video.

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Watching this stitch out on screen (I chose high-speed, by the way; there are 3 speeds to choose from), I affirmed my thread color choices – I’ll substitute white for the red and use royal blue in place of the black thread. And… back to that red 'no-go' button… Why, oh whyyyy is it still red??? Oh, thank you – I was hoping you’d ask, so I could show you this: when the start button is red, and you don’t know why, just push it. The screen will tell you what’s needed to give the go-ahead! Sometimes you need to push it more than once; there may be several instructions to follow, but you won’t have to guess. I love it! So it turns out, after all that playing, I still haven’t actually set my design. The Luminaire told me first to lower the presser foot with the handy-dandy button on the machine frame, and when the button was still red after doing that, pressing it again told me to “Finish editing the design”. Turns out it’s still in a deciding kinda mode.

The Brother Luminaire offers guidance, making the process easy!

So, after touching OK, and Set, I’m on a new screen where I can edit the design in numerous ways – you can see these screens on the left. Look at the information offered on screen: the magnification factor, which hoops are suitable, and the overall design size, as well as the programmed colors. I love being kept informed! There are also a ton of editing tools, which I’ll play with shortly, but for now I just wanted to see how this beauty stitches out. (However, for you overachievers in the audience, how many of those tool icons can you figure out?)

The Brother Luminaire's Edit screen hides some very cool tools...

Since I’m not making any edits, I’m moving right along to the Embroidery screen by touching the Embroidery button in the bottom right…where I get even more information specifically pertaining to the stitching process. By the way… I have a green light – it’s finally ready to stitch. It’s actually a quick process, but I lingered on explorations and explanations. Hey, it’s our hobby – what’s our hurry, right? The last thing I want to do before beginning to stitch is to turn on the baste function to secure the fabric to the stabilizer. It’s not necessary for this design, but I love to use it when I’m floating fabric on the stabilizer (Shhh… don’t tell anyone I said that – but notice I didn’t say floating the stabilizer under the fabric. In my book that’s a no-no!).

When I use water-soluble stabilizer on top, I also like to use this function to baste it in place. See the frame around my design in the picture? That’ll stitch just beyond my design (I can control how much), and that smart little stitch just pushed itself to the front of the line so it can sew first (after all, stitching it last is kinda like closing the barn door after the horse got out, right?).

So, finally, finally! It’s truly ready… Set… Go!

Oh, let me tell you – it just purrs – so smooth and so quiet. Furthermore, as my teenage daughter with a driver’s learner’s permit (gulp!) likes to say, it really goes “shoom”. Even at the Luminaire’s top speed of 1050 stitches per minute, it hums a pleasant working sound. It even sings a short jingle when the design is done. Just look at this embroidery – isn’t it gorgeous? As I mentioned, getting to this stage seemed to take a long time (you should have seen how long it took me. I don’t get distracted easily, but – hey, what does this button do?). Oops, sorry what was I saying? Oh, yeah…it’s not as long a process as I made it out to be: in reality, I selected and Set design, bipassed editing, and went straight to the Embroidery screen. I added a baste stitch and hit go.

The Brother Luminaire’s baste function activated on the embroidery screen. A mere drop in the bucket: a single example of a built-in Brother Luminaire embroidery design.

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Playing with the Brother Luminaire embroidery editing tools We’ll look at some of the Luminaire‘s on-screen editing capabilities. Not all of them though – there truly is a method in my madness, and I’ve played enough now to have a Plan. I’ve picked out some oh-so-cool functions to review in this feature. Oh, the suspense! I’ll show you how to take a handful of the built-in designs, combine them, rotate, scale (that’s different from sizing, you know), duplicate, assign thread colors, group them, and more. I selected and Set a design from the built-in library. It’s a simple one-color flourish that I plan to add to. And…that should make it easy for you to guess my next move: which icon in the left picture will let me do this? Right you are, Harry! Touching the Add icon brings me to a familiar screen, the design menu – you can see it in the right-hand photo:

The start of something good…one design element set and more to come!

I chose the built-in designs menu #1 again, and that gives me the tabbed display you can see in the next picture set. I can swipe my finger across the tabs to get to the last one (#13), and then swipe up through the designs to scroll to the design I want. Keep doing this until you’ve set all the designs you want (and consider stitching order – the order you import them is the order they’ll stitch). Now I’ve got some designs on screen to play with, in fact, I need to rearrange them, or I’ll be stitching a layered mess! Did you notice in that last pic how they all came into the center of the hoop? And the last one I brought in has the red control handles showing? That means it’s active, or selected, and anything we do now will affect that one. So let’s open up the toy box – that’s the icon labelled Edit on screen, and see what we can do.

L-R: Swipe to design tab, swipe to design, and several designs loaded…

Hmmm. Rotate first. It’s pretty intuitive, just touch the Rotate button and then the 90° counter-clockwise icon. Couldn’t get much easier! Well, actually, it can… I now want to move that design to the left edge of the hoop – and all I need to do is drag-and-drop with my finger! Omigosh! This is so cool! Want to know what else I discovered when I went to arrange the rest of the designs? When a design is selected, it has a hollow red handle that you can drag around to rotate freely on screen! And of course, the Move icon lets you position elements with incremental precision. Perfect for us control freaks (yes, we know who we are!).

Rotate and drag&drop functionality are just two of the editing tools on the Luminaire.

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Now that I have half of a design – it’s time to create the other half. To get the flourishes on the bottom, I‘ll duplicate each, rotate, and flip them before arranging them. In the Move screen, I compared the reference numbers for the top design placement to make sure I mirrored them perfectly on the lower half.

Duplicate, Flip (mirror image) and Move tools add more customizing potential.

I really like this arrangement, and don’t want to accidentally move a single element of it out of place, so I will group them together. To do this, there’s a button beside the selecting arrows near the bottom of the screen to let us select multiple elements. You can see these steps in the next collage: Next I’ll add a monogram. The Luminaire boasts several monogram alphabets, so again, the hardest part of this exercise was choosing which one I wanted. TIP Monogram alphabets, unlike fonts, treat each letter as an individual design, rather than a string of letters we can type in all at once. Back to the Add button, then Menu #3, I chose the letter K from the last tab. As you can see, it’s way too big.

Advanced selection tools allow you to group elements on screen.

The Luminaire has an advanced processor that’s powerful enough to recalculate stitch counts when sizing a design. It doesn’t just take the same stitch count and make the design bigger or smaller, it actually adjusts the fill densities to maintain perfect embroidery – it doesn’t just size the design, it scales it. And it’s easy! Under Edit, just touch the Size tool and select the Scaling option, and either drag a corner of the design larger or smaller, or use the corresponding buttons to achieve the size and proportion you want. There are even handy Move arrows on the Size screen so you can position the element and adjust it in place. As you can see, I also rotated it. Next I’d like to show you some of the nifty things the Luminaire can do with fonts. There are 24 fonts built-in, with numbers, punctuation, and special characters for each. I used my favorite font and entered some text to go under my design, in two lines, all in one step thanks to the handy-dandy next-line button! And take a peek at the bottom row in the last pic… text size, array (curve baselines), spacing, alignment… and the ability to change your mind about the chosen font. So much control, right on the machine!

The Luminaire features seven monogram alphabets to personalize your projects.

Advanced processors recalculate the stitch count when shrinking or enlarging a design.

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Let’s Set the text and we’ll be ready to play again. Except, sigh…I typed a word incorrectly, only realizing after it was too late. Fooled you! It’s never too late! I was easily able to ungroup the text, click on the Text Edit icon, and correct my oopsie. While doing that I decided that this wasn’t my favorite font anymore – at least not for this project, and with no effort I was able to reassign another font to the already-entered text. See? Never too late! I even went and changed the second line font style, too.

The Luminaire has many font entry and design tools… too much fun!

Easy editing tools let you correct spelling, change fonts, and more – at any stage before stitching.

I have two more cool toys to share with you before we start stitching this masterpiece. Using the Thread Palette, you can assign your own color choices, so that they prompt you – no guesswork, even if you get distracted while stitching (who, me?). You can choose from several thread brands, and either enter the color number or simply pick a color from the palette. I’m using the Isacord thread color numbers. I’m really pleased with this design, and it’s about time to hit Embroider and begin stitching. Once in the Embroidery screen, the design elements are grouped, and any changes such as moving and rotating affect the whole thing. Don’t get me wrong – we’re not past the point of no return yet; we could still back up to the Edit screen and make changes. But it does make adjusting its position in the hoop easier if it’s all one piece. So, I’ve centered it, and if you’ve been keeping track… I promised you one last oh-so-very-cool tool, and here it is: This design as-is has 32 color changes (ok, that’s including the letters; it would distill that down to 10), but still…see the color bar across the top of the screen in the first of the last set of photos? One teensy little button can change all that… you can see me engaging it in second shot – and look – I’m down to four color changes! Color sorting is just magical! I’ll save this design to the Luminaire‘smemory. Even once it’s saved, I can retrieve it and edit it further, even changing the initial and name if I want. And I just might…wouldn’t this make a lovely little wall-hanging to give as a housewarming gift? Hey…think it’s time to hit the green “go” button?

Pre-assign your thread colors instead of guessing along the way.

Now we get to hurry up and wait… it’s a 38 minute design, so I’ll sit and listen to the Luminaire purr as I write the final paragraph. Heck, I can’t wait to see it! I’m so pleased with this! If you have your own Brother Luminaire Innov-is XP1, I hope you were trying out these toys along with me. Of course, you would have substituted your own initial and name, and picked your own favorite colors. Of course. Right?

Color sorting on the Luminaire can eliminate a LOT of thread changing!

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The completed design. I could only wish I had an estate, let alone two, LOL, but doesn’t this look great?

Create stippling-in-the-hoop with the Brother Luminaire Just before stitching Kirkey Estates, I saved my design compilation to the machine’s memory. When I booted up my machine after a break, I recalled the design, tried to add stippling to it…and ran into a roadblock: I created the design to completely fill the hoop, and the Luminaire just told me (via a sad face message on screen) the pattern extended to the edge of the screen and there wasn’t room to add continuous stippling all around the design. Smart machine! So…on to Plan B. Do you remember the gorgeous feather I stitched, where I explored the Luminaire embroidery screen workflow? I still haven’t taken it out of the hoop, so I could try it with that one. I recalled the feather design, added stippling to surround it, adjusted and tweaked the settings, and touched the Design Preview icon. Voilà! What do you think…does it need stippling? I’m thinking not, based on two things: I didn’t stitch this design on batting, and I really like to see more stippling around the design – see at the top and bottom of the feather, where the stippling is sparse? To solve both of those issues, I guess I could re-hoop it with batting in the larger hoop…but it’s not what I really want, and, well, there’s a new plan formulating in the back of my mind. Third time might be the charm! By now I know you’re thinking, to heck with the Plan, how did I get the stippling in there? You know, you’re playing right into my hands, because that’s exactly what I wanted to show you, in a little instantgratification project…okay, maybe not so little, but definitely quick! Remember the 105⁄8” x 16” hoop? It’s Here’s the quilt embroidery sandwich materials and layering sequence I used. just the right size to make a placemat. So in it I hooped an embroidery quilt sandwich (fabric on top of batting on top of Polymesh on top of more fabric).

Simulated preview of auto-stippling added around an embroidery design.

Selecting and positioning: click-and-drag to rotate and move the design as desired.

In the Luminaire, I’ve loaded up another one of the built-ins; this time I was looking for a design that’s mostly line-work (I’ll tell you why in a minute) and I found what I wanted in the Zundt design menu: a spectacular paisley element. After setting the design, I played, of course. I rotated it and moved it to the upper left corner of the screen, using some of the editing tools we played.

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Then I touched the most magical button: Auto-Stipple! That gave me a screen where I can choose the hoop size to fill with stippling, the distance I want my stippling from my design, and how big I want the spacing on my stippling. You can see these in the next pic – they are pretty self-explanatory and so very easy to use! That’s pretty much it – that’s all it takes to program stippling around your embroidery design! But you know me…I can’t seem to leave well-enough alone, so I’m going to take it a few steps further, just because I can. I’ll set my colors: a royal blue (think there’s a theme going here?) for the paisley feature, and a light blue to match my fabric for the stippling. What do you think?

Auto-stipple and the available controls make it easy to achieve perfect results.

Now…I hooped a complete quilt sandwich, not just a quilt cracker, because I want this project to be reversible. That’s the reason I was looking for a design that was mostly line-work, with little or no fill stitching. And…that’s why I also made sure to wind bobbins with my top colors. This type of project is one of the rare times I change my embroidery bobbin to match the top thread. I’m not a machine quilter, but I do know when quilting, one brings the bottom thread up to the top surface and secures them out of the way. I used the thread navigation tool – see it there along the bottom of the embroidery screen? The Luminaire has great stitch control; I can move through my design one, ten, a hundred, or a thousand stitches at a time! Here I only need to jump one stitch forward to put me at the design’s starting point. With the needle poised over the start point of my design, pushing the needle-down button (on the machine head) once, then again while holding the top thread, pulls up the bottom thread so I can tape both them out of the way. I really like OESD tear-away tape for this.

I like to set my colors on screen so I can see a more accurate design preview.

The stitch navigation screen is straightforward and intuitive.

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Bringing the bobbin thread up to the top lets you take the next step and tape it out of the way.

One last step before hitting GO; I turned off the automatic thread trimming, for both end color and jump stitches. I’ll tell you why after you see how I did it. With the machine not trimming the threads for me, it means I have to do it. At the end of each color, I’ll trim them long enough to thread through a hand-sewing needle and weave the tails under other stitching or between the fabric layers, whichever is most suitable. While it is an extra step, it means no messy knots and tails on the back, which means this project can truly be reversible!

The stitch navigation screen is straightforward and intuitive.

My placemat panel is completely stitched now, with the thread tails perfectly woven out of sight. All that remains is to bind it and it’s a done deal. Wasn’t that fast? Isn’t it pretty? I love the subtlety of the perfectly color-matched stippling, though it does make it a bit hard to see in pictures. I can just see it set off perfectly with white bone china? But please, hold the gravy! I mentioned earlier this method will deliver perfectly reversible results…here’s a close-up of the reverse side, just so you can see how perfect it is! The Auto-stippling function is one of my favorite tools, and I’m sure – quilter or not – it will quickly become a favorite for you, too! There are plenty of other tools on the Brother Luminaire Innov-is XP1 that just might compete for favorites. Next, I want to share another with you, and I hope to intrigue you into making a quick project with the Appliqué Creator function on the Brother Luminaire.

Hiding the thread starts and ends using traditional quilting methods – threading it in and under!

The finished auto-stippled placemat, ready to square up and bind.

The reverse side of this embroidery-quilted placemat is as perfect as the top side!

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Making your own appliques on the Brother Luminaire Ready to dive in and play? I hope so – because I’ve a fantastic little project I want to show off – a personalized key fob using the Appliqué Creator. This project is totally inspired by a Brother Blog post by Cindy Hogan, where she leads you through the steps to create a more sophisticated variation on the Brother BES 4 Dream Edition Lettering Software. Cindy is a Brother Software expert and the author of several excellent Brother PE Design and BES software workbooks. Shown here are the building blocks for this quickie project – a name and a bar.

The premise for this project is simple (I wish I’d been the one to think of it first!): Enter a name, add in a placeholder to become the ring tab, and then create an offset, contoured line around it all. Delete the placeholder, and I’m ready to stitch, where I’ll use the stitch navigation tools to stitch some pieces and skip others. Here, follow along: Building on stuff already played with over the last few days, first select a font and enter a name; Set it. Next I chose an uppercase “I” from the plain block font, Set it and sized it taller – as much as it would go. Only taller, though, not wider. I rotated it 90°, and moved it into place just before the first initial. Next, I touched the Select button, and then Select All in the selection screen. After hitting OK, I grouped the elements and the Appliqué Creator button un-greyed itself.

Select all the elements and group them to unlock access to the Appliqué Creator tool.

Touch the Appliqué Creator button to open its setting screen and whoa! Quick as a blink, all the necessary stitch layers for appliqué have been created! And for those of you who have a Brother ScanNCut that reads PES files, you’ll be thrilled to know the appliqué design created here is compatible with the ScanNCut. I won’t be using that for this project, but it’s something for you to explore. To complete the design for this project, however, all you need to do now is choose the distance you want your stitching from your name, and then touch OK. Now, since I don’t want the placeholder bar to stitch, I’ll simply Ungroup, touch the Select arrow at the bottom of the screen to grab and Delete the bar. Ta dah! The design is ready to stitch – I guess I’d better catch up!

The Appliqué Creator tool automatically sets Appliqué Material, Placement, and Cover steps with the touch of a button.

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Deleting the placeholder letter that helped form the key ring tab.

I hooped black tear-away, and cut two strips of black Kraft–Tex large enough to fit my design with a generous border for handling. I interfaced one piece to prevent my satin stitch from completely perforating out my design (this will be the top piece), and threaded up my machine with embroidery thread on top and bobbinfill in the bobbin. I’ll switch out the bobbinfill later for the same color as the top thread for the reversibility part of the project. I centered the top piece of Kraft-Tex under my design, and stitched the first part, the name, on it: When the name is complete, I’ll tape the second piece of Kraft-Tex to the back, lined up with the top piece. Again, I like the tear-away tape from OESD for this. Before putting the hoop back on the machine, I’ll switch out the bobbin for pink thread. I also chose to turn off the trimmers.

With Kraft-Tex on top of my tear-away, it’s time to start stitching.

I’ll stitch the next color step in the sequence… three times. Yep – you read that right. Once isn’t enough oomph, and I really don’t want the next color steps (the offset placement and the cover stitch) to stitch at all, so when the Appliqué Material step is don’t, I’ll use the stitch navigation tools (the same ones I use when I break a thread), to back up and stitch that same bit again. And again. Three times is the charm for the look I want. I’ll skip the last two colors completely. Now it’s done stitching, I’ll remove it from the hoop and cut it out, fairly close to the boundary stitch, leaving about a 1⁄8” border. Attach a snap – I used the Babyville snap tool for this, and then snapped it closed around a D-ring and key ring for the look I envision. What do you think? Isn’t this a cool project? I have a confession for you… that’s not all I wanted to show you. While there may be a method to my madness, there’s also often a hefty dose of madness in my methods, notably… I tend to be overly optimistic about what I can accomplish in a given amount of time (or number of words, as it happens). I had grandiose ideas of showing you another really nifty tool tucked into this magnificent machine, but it looks like it may have to wait for next QUILTsocial issue. I’ll be back to play with some more goodies on the Brother Luminaire, in particular some of the exciting advantages the built-in camera offers. Until then, happy sewing!

Here’s the second piece of Kraft-Tex, taped to hide the back of the embroidery.

Liana Kirkey

A perfect gift for someone who can never find their name pre-printed on personalized items!

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Alilah fabric makes the Magical Moose Crossing table runner, whimsical! Tania Denyer

A selection of Banyan Batiks Alilah fabrics for my leaf blocks

Tania, here, to share with you another of my fun and whimsical applique designs! I’m making a magical moose table runner with a background of maple leaf blocks with Banyan Batiks Alilah fabrics. I made this whimsical project while at the cottage this summer! I’m using the Alilah collection of Banyan Batiks and chose fabrics from the coral and sage colorways. There are so many gorgeous colors to choose from! To begin your project, here’s the material list. for the leaf blocks • ½ yd x 2 of orange-gold for the leaves • 1 yd white for the background for the applique moose head

• ½ yd black for antlers • fat quarter brown for moose head • fat eighth taupe/gray for moose hair other fabric • 22'' x 40'' approximately for batting • 1 yd or piece measuring approximately 22'' x 40'' for backing • ½ yd for binding

Red Banyan Batiks Alilah for the hanging sleeve and backing and a fabulous orange for the binding!

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I used the same orange gold as I used in the leaves. With a smaller project like this, I choose a color that does not stand out from the applique, but you may, of course, choose what you like. other supplies • threads for piecing and quilting • 1½ yds fusible HeatnBond, if you choose to do fusible applique This work involves cutting the squares needed for the leaf blocks and then we’ll piece them! You’ll make 9” leaf blocks and requiring a total of 8. They’re set in a 2 x 4 pattern, which means your table runner ends up at 18'' x 36''.

More choices from Banyan Batiks Alilah fabrics for my moose head applique

For my leaf blocks I chose two bright orange-gold batiks for the leaves and a solid white cotton for the background. cutting instructions white • (8) 3½” squares • (16) 4” squares • (16) 31⁄8” squares orange 1

• (16) 3½” squares • (8) 4” squares orange 2 • (16) 3 ½” squares • (8) 4” squares You’re now ready to get started on your Banyan Batiks Alilah leaf blocks!

Prepare the squares you need to create your leaf blocks.

Making the leaf quilt block for the Magical Moose Crossing table runner Time to assemble the leaf blocks cut for the moose background. When using Banyan Batiks fabric to create the quilt blocks you’ll find that they work wonderfully. The high quality of the fabric makes sewing on the bias for the half square triangles simple and easy and pressing is a dream! Make a total of 8 leaf blocks which will finish at 9” square. They will be set in a 2 x 4 pattern. For each quilt block • (1) 3½” square white • (4) 3½” HSTs • (3) 3½” orange • (1) 3½” stem square Stem Squares Let’s get the stem square out of the way first. The photos on the right of these instructions will help you with the steps. Take a 31⁄8” square and draw a diagonal line on the wrong side in pencil. Place the 31⁄8” white square onto a 3½” orange square on top, right sides together, two corners aligned as in the picture.

This is the block arrangement for the background.

Steps to make the stem unit for the leaf block

Making HSTs Next make your hsts, you will need 4 per block for a total of 32. I chose the following method for my HSTs as I know I’m not a perfect piecer and I prefer to give my squares a quick trim to make them tidy. The picture below shows my process and you may use whatever method you prefer.

Sew along line and press. Take a second 31⁄8” white square and draw a diagonal line on the wrong side in pencil.

Finally, assemble the quilt block as shown. You’ll have a total of 8 leaf blocks when done. Whew that was This is how to put together a lot! the leaf block.

The Coral colorway of the Banyan Batiks Alilah has a deep, rich tone and will make the moose applique obvious while making a statement in the backdrop.

As before, place the 31⁄8” white square onto a 3½” orange square on top, right sides together, two corners matching. Sew along line and press out. Trim away the excess fabric to a ¼” seam allowance. Ta da! The stem unit is complete. Now make 7 more… remember, if using two fabrics for the leaf blocks that will be 4 of one fabric and 4 of another.

Photos by Tania Denyer

These are the 6 steps I use to make a half square triangle

Completed leaf quilt block in fantastic Banyan Batiks Alilah!

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A background of beautiful maple leaves and simple grid quilting I chose to lay the blocks out in this pattern. You may arrange them as you choose as long as it ends up two squares by four squares.

Banyan Batiks Alilah make this table runner simply stunning! And it isn’t finished yet!

The unfinished size of your table runner should be 18½” x 36½”. When the top is complete, the next step is to create the quilt sandwich.

Block arrangement

Begin by ironing the background piece. It should ideally measure at least 22” x 40”. Next, lay out the backing on a clean surface, wrong side up. Add your batting and smooth in place.

Table runner sandwiched and quilted but untrimmed in preparation for the moose applique

Finally, add the pieced quilt top. You may choose to add a few pins to keep things in place when you take it to the machine to quilt. For this project, I chose a heavier weight white cotton thread for the quilting and picked a longer stitch. I wanted a simple, rustic look to the table runner to match my moose. You can change the look of your table runner quite a bit simply by changing the thread and stitch you use to quilt. Be creative and have fun! Begin the quilting lines by stitching lengthwise along the center seam and continue out following the seam lines. Then turn the quilt and repeat the quilting lines along the shorter length of the table runner. Finally, you can add a center quilting line between the seam lines to end up with a simple all over grid pattern as shown. You'll find that the moose applique will be easier to add when you have already quilted the background. Resist trimming the quilt top until after you add and stitch the applique!

Close up of grid quilting… I don’t worry too much about getting my stitch line in the ditch, so long as it is straight!

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Making a moose applique realistic using Banyan Batiks Alilah! Now lets add a moose head… well really just the top of his head and his majestic antlers created with Banyan Batiks Alilah! I chose fusible applique for this project, you may use whatever method you prefer and remember the template shapes provided. Do not include a ¼” seam. Cut moose head, ears, head fluff and antlers with templates pages provided. The moose antlers are long and you’ll need to cut the two template parts out and tape them together to get one whole antler. Banyan Batiks Alilah fabrics for moose head, ears, hair and antlers Remember to cut one of the moose antlers in reverse! Starting with the moose head, fuse the parts in place. Add the antlers using the background quilted grid as a placement guide. Finally, add the hair tuft and the ears. If you need a more detailed description of how to create fusible applique, check out one of my earlier posts here: fusible applique.

Close up of the hand-look quilt stitch you can achieve on your domestic sewing machine!

I finished the applique with a hand-look quilting stitch which I did by machine. It uses an invisible thread in the top of the machine and the color of the stitching to show will be in the bobbin. If you want to know if your sewing machine can do this stitch, simply google “hand-look machine quilting stitch” and the brand of your machine. When you’re satisfied with the quilting, trim the table runner. The trimmed measurement should be approximately 18¼ x 36¼”. The ¼” allows space to add the binding while maintaining the points in the leaf blocks. Lastly: adding binding and an optional hanging sleeve, if you choose to make your table runner into a wallhanging suitable for any cabin or cottage decor. The Magical Moose Crossing Table Runner using Banyan Batiks Alilah fabric collection adds warmth to any cottage room setting!

Use this picture to help with your applique layout

Ready for binding

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Head Cut 1

Antler 1 - Cut 2 (Cut 1 in reverse)

Antler 2 Hair Cut 1

Ear Cut 2

Tania Denyer

gingerquilts.ca

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Magical Moose Crossing quilted table runner, finished and on the table Hope you have had fun making your own or just following along as I created moose magic with Banyan Batiks Alilah. To get started you will need your backing and binding fabric. I chose a red and white Banyan Batiks Alilah for the backing and hanging sleeve and one of the fabulous orange batiks for the binding. I wanted the binding in this table runner not to stand out, because the Moose is the star of the show. Cut your binding at 2½” wide by approximately 12'' long. Follow this link for my instructions on adding binding from one of my previous QUILTsocial posts. When you’re done with the binding, add a hanging sleeve to attach to the back of the quilt if you would like a perfect wallhanging for your cabin or cottage. If you decide to attach a hanging sleeve, cut a piece from the backing or binding fabric that measures 4” x 36”.

Moose Crossing Table Runner with Banyan Batiks Alilah

Banyan Batiks Alilah fabrics in coral colorway that I chose for my backing, hanging sleeve and binding

This pattern can be used as a table runner, a wallhanging or, with the addition of more blocks, a baby quilt!

Next, make a double Binding ready to add to table runner fold at each end of the sleeve and stitch to finish the ends. Then fold up the bottom edge of the hanging sleeve about ½”. See my previous post, A sleeve and the binding, and the May Flowers wallhanging is done!, if you want more details on making a hanging sleeve. Thank you for following along with this project. If you love the design, it would be simple to add maple leaf blocks to make it into a larger wallhanging or even an adorable baby quilt! And don’t forget to check out other colorways you can use within Banyan Batiks Alilah, and the many other mesmerizing Banyan Batiks Collections that can make this table runner even more whimsical. Please share your creations on social media and tag @quiltsocial @ banyanbatiks and @iamgingerq if you are on Instagram! We would all love to see what you create.

I have enjoyed sharing this pattern with you! Many Marvelous Moose Moments may you share

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