QUILTsocial | Issue 17

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Visit QUILTsocial.com to download a PDF version of this issue.

ISSUE

17

EAT, SLEEP, QUILT, REPEAT!

10 must-have

Odif adhesive spray products for your quilting space Noodles Quilt Modern Baby Quilt Indispensable tips for bias tape applique quilting Kayana Autumn Quilt Crumb quilting: What’s it all about?

Social Distancing – the perfect time for a hexies quilt pattern OUILTsocial 

* When* When compared compared to Brother to Brother DreamCreator DreamCreator XE VM5100, XE VM5100, Babylock Babylock Journey, Journey, Bernina Bernina 590E, and 590E, Janome and Janome Horizon Horizon Memory Memory Craft 1400.

Craft 1400. ** When ** When compared compared to Babylock to Babylock Crescendo, Crescendo, Brother Brother InnovisInnovis BQ3050, BQ3050, and Bernina and Bernina 770QE.770QE. VIKING, VIKING, DESIGNER DESIGNER SAPPHIRE, SAPPHIRE, and EPIC andare EPIC trademarks are trademarks of KSIN ofLuxembourg KSIN Luxembourg II, S.a.r.l.

II, S.a.r.l.

HUSQVARNA HUSQVARNA and theand “H”the Crown “H” Crown DeviceDevice are trademarks are trademarks of Husqvarna of Husqvarna AB andAB areand used areunder used under license. license. ©2020©2020 KSIN Luxembourg KSIN Luxembourg II, S.a.r.l.

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Editor's Letter

There is a kind of comfort brought about by cooler weather and shorter daylight gearing up for a sense of hibernation I simply adore. It's butternut squash soup, a cozy wool sweater and quietly working over a holiday table runner that makes the notion of the winter season ahead tolerable. A hush takes over my sewing space and I rejoice to be able to escape in my thoughts and quilting.

This quiet time helps the creative process work its magic and to come up with solutions to quilting stumbling blocks.

I had been working on a holiday table runner last December until I came to halt as I contemplated quilting the contours of these lovely poinsettias by hand or free motion by machine. And so, it sat there all year until this moment, where I'm picking it up again and decided to use free-motion. Sometimes it takes that long to figure it out, particularly when life gets noisy outside my sewing space as it did this year.

This is my first shot at free motion quilting, although I'm following the path of the petals, I think it rather lucky to have that guide. I've read many tutorials on how to do free motion quilting, and still it was nerve racking!

But as the colder winds pick up outside, and the leaves fall, I'm overtaken by a sense of completion calling me to finish the runner. I coupled the tapestry fabric with velvet sashing, not easy to sew as it tends to shift; slowly but surely is the trick. And so, slowly but surely is the trick to free motion quilting.

Publishing three magazines and daily blog posts, including QUILTsocial, I'm pressured with deadlines every day, as you might imagine. But giving myself until the end of November to finish this runner, is a deadline I can meet without rushing. Way ahead of schedule and the only quilting project on the go, I pray for quiet autumn evenings.

Quiet autumn evenings are also perfect for joining our sparkling Spectrum QAL 2020! A quilt-a-long like no other: 12 quilt blocks, 3 designers, 3 fabric collections, check it out! Get more details and an update on the completed quilt blocks so far, on page 6.

I hope you find some quiet time this winter to immerse yourself in a favorite project.

Stay warm, positive and quilt.

Cheerfully,

I hope this letter finds you in good health.

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EAT, SLEEP, QUILT, REPEAT!

PUBLISHER, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ART DIRECTOR Carla A. Canonico carla@QUILTsocial.com PUBLISHER, ADVERTISING SALES John De Fusco john@QUILTsocial.com PHOTOGRAPHERS Carla A. Canonico, John De Fusco BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS Paul Leger paullegerquilts.com Tania Denyer gingerquilts.ca Jean Boyd patternsbyjeanboyd.com Sarah Vanderburgh sewjoycreations.com Claire Haillot quiltingwithclaire.com Pam Voth GRAPHIC & WEB DESIGN Carla A. Canonico carla@QUILTsocial.com GRAPHIC ASSISTANT and SOCIAL MEDIA Sondra Armas

* projects * techniques * product reviews

WEB and IT SUPPORT Alejandro Araujo WEBSITE / BLOG : https://QUILTsocial.com Like us on Facebook : QUILTsocial Follow us on Pinterest : quiltsocial Follow us on Instagram : quiltsocial Follow us on Twitter : @QUILTsocial WHERE TO GET YOUR COPY QUILTsocial is a quarterly eMagazine published by A Needle Pulling Thread. It is available free for personal use online at https://QUILTsocial.com.

A limited number of printed copies of QUILTsocial are available for purchase at select quilt shops and specialty stores. Ask for it at your local shop. QUILTsocial is not available by subscription.

QUILT SHOPS If you are interested in carrying QUILTsocial in your store, please email john@QUILTsocial.com.

EDITORIAL Designers and other contributors who would like to be considered for future issues please email carla@QUILTsocial.com with a brief description of your work and your proposed project for the magazine. ©2020 QUILTsocial. All rights reserved. Issue 17 ISSN 2368-5913.

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No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

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Elaine’s Quilting Tech Tips!

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All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are for private, non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted material owned by their respective creators or owners.

Advertiser Index 52 A Needle Pulling Thread Magazine 51 Brother 50 Business Directory 25 Gütermann Creativ 02 Husqvarna Viking 17 Melissa Marginet 26 Northcott Fabrics 49 PFAFF 04 QUILTsocial.com 15 Schmetz 27 #TheSewGoesOn

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issue 17

CONTENTS 06

Update on the Spectrum QAL 2020

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10 must-have Odif adhesive spray products for your quilting space

10

2 essential adhesive sprays make quilting easier: Odif 404 and Odif Grippy

11

Easy-to-apply Odif 606 Iron-on Adhesive replaces double-sided interfacing

12

Quilters’ favorite basting spray: Odif 505 Temporary Fabric Adhesive

14

Why, when and how to use Odif OdiCoat and Fabric Protect on your quilts

18

Brilliant bias tape creations with UNIQUE Bias Maker

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Simple steps to bias tape with UNIQUE Bias Tape Maker!

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How to draw with bias binding strips on your quilts

21

Indispensable tips for bias tape applique quilting

22

A favorite quilt binding technique for a clean finish

24

Edge-to-Edge Walking Foot Quilting Designs by Melissa Marginet

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Falling in love with Banyan Batiks Kayana autumn fabric collection

29

How to choose a quilt design for fabric too beautiful to cut into

30

How a short stitch, in quilting, can save the day

31

The secret to modern quilting using the straight stitch

32

5 tips to create the best ever quilt binding finish

34

Crumb quilting: What’s it all about?

36

Crumb blocks for a wall quilt

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How to piece crumb blocks into larger pieces of fabric

38

Piecing the crumb quilt is easy using the ¼” foot with guide

39

Brother BQ3050 and its 3 free motion feet

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This modern baby quilt steals the show!

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Floating stitches on a modern baby quilt makes all the difference

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HSTs and piecing a baby quilt top with PFAFF performance icon

43

Radiant Stitches on the performance icon add joy to a baby quilt

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Stippling Stitches on the performance icon add whimsy to a baby quilt

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Yo-yos make your quilts complete

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Social Distancing – the perfect time for a hexies quilt pattern

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Claire's quilt design using Anthology Fabrics Little Girl in the Blue Armchair Collection

September 2020 to April 2021

Join us!

WHAT IS IT ?

Elaine's quilt design using Riley Blake Designs Blue Stitch Collection Little Girl in the Blue Armchair

Paul's quilt design using Benartex Fabrics Wave Texture Collection Blue Stitch Collection

Wave Texture Collection

Fabric Collections

QAL2020

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This QAL is not your typical QAL, it’s far more exciting and gives you the flexibility to design your own finished quilt! Claire had a gorgeous quilt pattern waiting in the wings for a long time for the right time - NOW! Claire’s design is the original quilt pattern with a total of 12 sparkling blocks. Elaine and Paul will be making the same blocks using other fabric lines and arranging them to create totally different quilts. Aren’t you curious to see how the same 12 blocks will give 3 totally different quilts?

Read on!

These are the first 4 spectacular quilt blocks of this QAL in the 3 highlighted fabrics.

Click on the block to get the piecing instructions and valuable tips to make your quilt blocks exceptional!

Block 1

Block 2

Block 3

Block 4

Join us!

We are so excited about this QAL we want to know what your QAL 2020 blocks look like too!

Share your photos on your IG page and add #TheSewGoesOn.

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10 must-have

Odif

adhesive spray products

for your quilting space Paul Léger The 10 Odif products being featured in this series

Odif adhesive spray products are very useful in creating cherished quilts. In this series of articles I'll explain the purpose for each one and why it's important to have these in your quilting space.

For many of you, the name Odif may not ring a bell, but if I say 505 basting spray, I’m sure many of you know what I’m talking about.

Odif 808 Paper Pattern Adhesive

Well, Odif is the company that makes our much loved 505 Temporary Fabric Adhesive (basting spray). Odif also makes many other labor-saving products I was unaware even existed 24 months ago! Since I found out about these new products, I’ve made it my mission to learn more about each and discover how they can bring even more joy to our quilting lives. Over the next 5 articles, I’ll demonstrate and explain the many uses of 10 Odif products.

Winter’s due to arrive in just over a month from now, so I decided to make a little applique winter scene using most of the available Odif products. materials

• 14” x 19” blue fabric for sky • 10” x 19” white for ground and snowman (ground piece is 3” x 19”) • 8” x 8” black for hat, mouth, eyes and buttons • 2” x 4” red for hat band • 2” x 4” orange for nose • (2) 2½” strips for binding • fat quarter for backing

Click the link to download Frosty Winter Scene templates.

I’ll share different methods. As in all methods and techniques, once you’ve seen the demos, pick the one you prefer, but it wouldn’t hurt to try them all first.

Let’s start by looking at Odif 808 Paper Pattern Adhesive spray, 808 for short.

Frosty the snowman enjoying a snowflake 19” x 16½”

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Photos by Paul Léger

In case you’re wondering what a paper pattern adhesive does, read on!

After I spray the 808 onto paper, the paper will stick to the fabric when heat is applied to the reverse side of the paper.

Essentially, I’m making homemade freezer type paper. No more rolls of freezer paper, no more fitting to rip it from the box.

I’ll show 2 ways to use Odif 808 spray for this project.

1. When there are several pattern pieces to cut from one variety of fabric, 808 is very handy for raw-edge applique.

• Spray the 808 on the sheet of

pattern paper from a distance of about 6”.

2. The second way to use 808 is for applique. This time, it’s for turnededge applique.

Normally, at this time I’d turn the fabric’s edge around the paper applique shape and baste it into place. But, before I do, I’d like to show another Odif product that will make the task easier.

Note: When dry, 808 will not be sticky but the paper can be reused. To reactivate, simply reapply heat as you would with freezer paper. It’s that easy!

Odif Fabric Booster is a great help with applique. Use Fabric Booster as a stabilizer.

Most starch or sizing sprays I’ve used in the past are either too light or too heavy. You have the ability with Fabric Booster to use it as a starch or sizing, you decide from this one spray how much or how little to use.

Like the 808, there are two ways to use the Fabric Booster.

The first method consists of spraying the entire piece of fabric with Fabric Booster.

Frosty’s head and body applied to fabric

• Cut out the shape needed and spray the shape.

• Place the sprayed piece of paper

The second method will come in handy for doing turned-edge applique. Earlier, I placed the paper template onto the fabric and then trimmed around it. Odif Fabric Booster spray container is a screwon cap.

• Remove the cap from the Fabric

Booster container and pour a small quantity of Fabric Booster into a small container. The lid of one of the Odif cans works great.

• Using a cotton swab, moisten the edge of the fabric.

Odif Fabric Booster applied around the edge of the fabric

After the Fabric Booster has been applied to the fabric, fold the fabric over the paper shape and press it dry. (Check out the handy Go Iron! It’s perfect for this use!!)

TIP You might want to use a box or container large enough to hold the piece of fabric in order to prevent spraying it ems you don’t want to spray!

Allow the fabric to air dry according to the directions on the Odif Fabric Booster can. In step 1 of the 808 demo here I used this method.

Note: Clean the nozzle opening after each use.

on the fabric and press to make it adhere.

• Cut around the shape; I like to leave about ¼” extra around the edge.

Dampen the fabric by spraying Odif Fabric Booster.

Turn edge of fabric over the paper and press with an iron to create shape. (Check out the handy Go Iron! It’s perfect for this use!!)

With the help of Odif 808 and Odif Fabric Booster sprays, I’ve demonstrated some methods to use for applique. Believe me when I say there are a lot more uses for these great products! Odif 808 can be used with plants, cardboard, plastic, drawing sheet and non-fusible stabilizers while Odif Fabric Booster can be used with felt, ribbons, lace, embroidery and wools. These are truly versatile products!

Preparing Frosty’s nose for turned-edge applique

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2 essential adhesive sprays make quilting easier: Odif 404 and Odif Grippy The next two great Odif products I'd like to share are: 404 Repositionable Craft Adhesive and Grippy Non-slip Coating.

Odif 404 Repositionable Craft Adhesive and Odif Grippy Non-slip Coating

I’ll start with the Odif 404 Repositionable Craft Adhesive (404 for short). When I first found out about 404, I was transported back to 1985 when Post-it notes made their debut in my life. The link between these products is simple. The 404 spray makes paper, stencils, plastics, and stabilizers repositionable just like Post-it notes. No more picking up pieces of fabric that fell to the floor from your design wall.

In my previous article, I used Odif 808 spray to temporarily place paper backings onto my applique fabric pieces. Here, with the paper still in place, I applied:

• Place the fabric pieces face down on a protected surface.

• Spray the applique pieces from a

distance of about 8” using Odif 404.

Spray pieces with Odif 404 and wait 30 seconds for adhesive to cure.

TIP Remember 404 is repositionable, if I’m not happy with where the piece is placed I can move it to another spot.

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Odif Grippy is the solution!

In the last few years, companies have come up with great product options to use with rulers but nothing for plastic templates. Grippy is the solution for both rulers and plastic templates, all in one spray.

Here’s what you do:

• Place your ruler or template face down on a protected surface;

• From a distance of about 8”, spray a

thin layer of Grippy onto the back of the ruler or template and allow to dry; • Enjoy slip-free rulers and templates!

It’s so easy!

The use of Grippy is not limited to rulers and templates. It can also be used with stencils, plastic template sheets, etc.

Bonus! For those of you who have difficulties with clothing sliding off of hangers, you can also use it on hangers!

Note: Should you ever need to remove Grippy from your rulers and templates you can do so with another great Odif product: DK5 Adhesive Cleaner.

Frosty parts are placed and adjusted as needed

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We all have plastic rulers and templates which probably slip around on our fabrics just as we’re trying to cut.

TIP When sprayed, Grippy appears slightly white but will dry translucent.

Should you have removed the paper from the back of an applique piece before spraying or if you’re working on a collage project for which you’re not using paper backings, you can use 404

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The other product I want to introduce here is Odif Grippy Non-slip Coating (Grippy for short). If you thought I was excited about 404, you ain’t seen nothing yet! I’m just as excited about Grippy.

I sprayed Frosty’s parts, then I played with the placement of each piece.

Now, there’s a bit more good news here.

Use Odif Grippy Non-slip Coating to enjoy slipfree rulers and templates!

directly on the fabric and it will still be ‘repositionable’, just like a Post-it note.

Odif Grippy Non-slip Coating will dry translucent.

Easy-to-apply Odif 606 Iron-on Adhesive replaces double-sided interfacing Onto two more products from Odif to make your quilting and crafting life easier.

When working on a project, there are lots of great tools and products to use to help us achieve the desired result.

While working on an applique quilt like the cute one I’m working on here, the Odif line of products comes in especially handy.

Every quilter has preferred techniques.

For instance, when doing raw edge applique, I often use double-sided interfacing to stabilize and fuse; perhaps you do too!

Now you can get the same result you get with double-sided interfacing by using an easy-to-apply spray! Odif 606 Ironon Adhesive and Odif DK5 Glue Remover products do exactly that!

As I demonstrated with the 404 and the 808 sprays, these sprays are not permanent. The 404 allows you to reposition fabrics while deciding where to place applique pieces. Odif 808 allows you to make a reusable paper template which can be used over and over again.

Reduce, reuse, recycle!

Using two-sided stabilizer is the conventional way to do many applique methods. With stabilizer, there’s always the risk of getting glue on your project.

With 606 this will not be an issue.

Using high heat, press for 30 to 45 seconds. Follow the product’s directions for the best results.

I’m using Odif 606 on Frosty’s eyes and on the snowflake. Once I’ve placed the applique pieces in their proper spots, I like to stitch around the different shapes to secure them to the quilt top.

The second Odif product I’ll show you is Odif DK5 Glue Remover.

Anytime you use adhesive sprays there’s always a risk of over-spraying; which can be difficult to clean. What to do?

Enter DK5!

Odif 606 Iron-on Adhesive & Odif DK5 Glue Remover

What’s DK5? It’s a cleaning agent that’s perfect for getting tacky residue off of your unintentionally adhesive-sprayed tools and surfaces. I’ve yet to find a product that can do what DK5 can. This is another must-have Odif product given all of the adhesive sprays we’ve been using.

Simply spray DK5 onto the surface to be cleaned, wait 30-60 seconds, then wipe with a clean rag to clear away any adhesive spray residue!

Spray Odif 606 Iron-on Adhesive on the back of fabric.

In the photo below, I removed half of the Grippy I sprayed on the template.

Using 606 spray is simple. Once the desired shape is cut from the fabric: Using a Heirloom Non-Stick Teflon Applique Mat apply heat for 30-45 seconds

Spray 606 evenly in short spritzes onto the wrong side of the fabric.

TIP Ensure the edges are also sprayed.

Place the applique shape, sprayed side down, onto the desired location of your project. Getting some glue on the iron is always a risk when pressing any fusible item. I recommend you use parchment paper or a Heirloom Non-Stick Teflon Applique Mat between the iron’s soleplate and the item you’re pressing to prevent such a mess.

A template ruler partially cleaned with Odif DK5 Glue Remover.

It’s important to shed light on these essential quilting tools which can be used for other crafts. Odif 606 Iron-on Adhesive and Odif DK5 Glue Remover I showcased are handy in your quilting space.

The Frosty scene is ready for an applique stitch around every piece.

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Quilters’ favorite basting spray:

Odif 505 Temporary Fabric Adhesive

Odif AntiStatic and Odif 505 Temporary Fabric Adhesive sprays

Now I’ll introduce (or reintroduce for some of you), Odif 505 Temporary Fabric Adhesive spray (505 for short) and Odif AntiStatic Anti-static electricity spray.

Odif 505 is a product I’ve been using for years. Over those years, I’ve learned a few things about how to make the best use of it.

Third, after the batting is in place, I roll half of it down, spray the backing fabric and carefully place the batting onto the backing, ensuring there are no bumps or wrinkles.

SafetyNote: Remember, with all spray products, only use them in a well-ventilated space.

The first thing I learned was always to use 505 when it comes to basting sprays. I’ve tried others and they were awful. I remember one, in particular, was so bad everything was sticking to everything else and not in a good basting way. I’m not one to throw things away when they still have some useful life in them, but I did in this case! It went directly into the recycling bin. All I can say is 505 is the only basting spray you should use.

The first step when using 505 to baste, is to secure the quilt’s backing fabric.

TIP Normally, I tape the backing fabric to the floor.

Second, I place the batting onto the backing fabric before applying the 505.

Fold batting half way down backing

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A mistake many 505 users make is to spray very slowly too close to the fabric. Find a medium speed with which to apply the basting spray and spray from a distance of approximately 12”.

Now, the winter applique quilt is basted and ready to be quilted.

Frosty is basted and ready to be quilted.

From a distance of about 12'', spray 505 on the backing fabric

After the first half of the batting has been spray-basted, I repeat the process on the second half. With the batting secured to the backing, I’ll repeat the process for the quilt top by applying the 505 on its wrong side.

Another great use for Odif 505 is it can also be used for machine embroidery. Hoop the stabilizer only, apply a thin layer of 505 to the stabilizer, then apply the fabric on top of the stabilizer.

You do not need to hoop the fabric. You’re ready to let your machine do its thing!

Odif 505 spray is available in two sizes:

• a nice, economical 156g • a larger 312g size Note: I asked the Odif company about the care instructions on the 505 label. The directions should read that fabrics treated with 505 may be either machine washed or dry cleaned. The 505 new product labels will be changed to reflect this care statement.

When I first saw Odif AntiStatic spray, I wondered why quilters would want to add it to their tool collection. Then, it occurred to me some quilters use poly/cotton or polyester battings, while others use synthetic fabrics in the quilts. I’ve yet to find an anti-static spray created with quilts in mind, AntiStatic is that product.

From a distance of about 12'', spray 505 on the backing fabric

Spray 505 on the back of quilt top then fold onto the batting.

Corners–don’t cut them! Often when applying the 505 basting spray, somehow the corners get missed. When we notice the missed corners, we try to fix it by giving only a quick spray 2”-3” over the missed area. Doing that will only result in a glob of glue messing up your work.

Both polyester batting and synthetic fabrics could interact and generate static electricity. When this happens, a good anti-static electricity spray is suggested. Years ago, when I first heard of anti-static sprays, I thought you sprayed the fabric item with them without concern for distance, but that’s not the whole story. Yes, you spray the items, but do so from a distance of approximately 8” for best results.

A small spritz will go a long way to get rid of the static electricity on your quilts and other items that may be subject to static electricity.

It’s important to spray the missed corners evenly from 12” away to prevent such a mess. Don’t worry about spraying beyond the area you need to cover, Odif DK5 Glue Remover will help you remove the excess.

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Why, when and how to use

Odif OdiCoat and Fabric Protect on your quilts

Apply OdiCoat with the OdiCoat card.

Odif OdiCoat and Odif Fabric Protect

Last, but not least, I’ll showcase Odif Fabric Protect and Odif OdiCoat products.

Most of us have experienced having quilt colors fade when left on a bed that’s exposed to too many UV rays. This has been a never-ending problem with quilts made of 100% cotton fabrics.

Odif Fabric Protect has quilters and fabric artists in mind, all other products I’m aware of are designed for upholstered furniture.

Scoop some gel from the OdiCoat container using the card and spread in a thin layer onto the fabric. Ensure the gel has penetrated the fabric, then let the first coat dry for 30 to 60 minutes.

When the first coat is dry, apply a second coat and let it dry for a full 24 hours.

No longer! Enter Odif Fabric Protect!

Press your project after the OdiCoat has dried, you’ll need to protect your iron’s soleplate by using parchment paper between the fabric and the iron.

Odif Fabric Protect will protect quilts against:

Some other objects you may wish to apply OdiCoat to include:

• harmful UV rays • spills • dust • dirt Apply Odif Fabric Protect using a sweeping motion while spraying your quilt or project from a distance of 6” to ensure the fabric of your project or quilt is well coated.

TIP If you wash your quilt, you’ll need to apply a new coating of Fabric Protect. You should do this on a regular, 3 month cycle.

Odif Fabric Protect is great for protecting quilts AND it can also be used on all fabric-related projects, including upholstery!

Now, let’s look at Odif OdiCoat.

I’m sure you’re all curious to know what this product actually does.

OdiCoat will render your fabric projects waterproof! Yes, you read that correctly! OdiCoat not only waterproofs, it’s also easy to use! I’m not aware of any other product that have been produced to be used at home to waterproof fabrics you own.

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To apply OdiCoat, use the OdiCoat card or an expired gift card or plastic hotel key in a pinch.

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• the underside of cloth bags • lunch bags (if all the contents are wrapped and sealed) • outdoor table centerpieces Guess what? Unlike Fabric Protect, there’s no need to reapply OdiCoat after washing!

Note: A new label is being designed to indicate that OdiCoat is for waterproofing fabrics.

During this series of articles, I shared a brief description of some of the benefits and uses of these Odif product. Go to your local quilt store and get them. You will love them, I sure do!

Paul Léger

paullegerquilts.com

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don't miss these projects & tutorials online!

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the new baby in my quilt life:

Discovering the

QuiltBroidery feature on the

Oliso mini project Iron

Luminaire XP2

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How to create embroidery designs using

Premier+ 2 software

How to bind a quilt with

challenging corners

and there's so much more!

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Brilliant bias tape creations with

UNIQUE Bias Maker Tania Denyer

The image I drew to recreate in bias tape applique

HeatnBond Adhesive Tape comes in a variety of sizes for bias tape projects

Three sizes of UNIQUE Bias Maker ready to go!

2015 QuiltCon winner CPU by Katherine Jones of Tasmania, Australia

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I have been quilting for many years now so I have seen more than a few trends take place. I remember when I started quilting, Celtic knotwork was very popular and I took a class to make a sampler quilt using this technique, I still have it. I remember making the bias tape was tricky but once I got the hang of it, everything went smoothly.

If you look back at any of my earlier QUILTsocial posts, you will see how much fun I like to have with applique and this feature is no different. I like to show how you can play with your quilting and even if you don’t make the project exactly as I have done, hopefully, I’ll give you some ideas of how to play on your own!

So when deciding what I could share here on QUILTsocial, I remembered those bias tape makers. I went to Pinterest, as I do, and found out the modern quilting movement has also rediscovered bias applique and there are some pretty incredible creations being made with an old and familiar quilt tool. There is even an online beginner quilt class showing the simple, graphic designs that can make with bias binding.

In 2015 QuiltCon held a Bias Tape Quilting Challenge and the results were pretty spectacular. This is a picture of the first place quilt, CPU by Katherine Jones of Tasmania, Australia. I was completely inspired. Bias tape has so many uses beyond the traditional ones and I hope to encourage you to find your bias tape maker or purchase a new UNIQUE Bias Maker and get started making some creative designs!

After seeing all these amazing quilts, I thought it would be fun to reacquaint myself with the bias tape maker. I decided to start with the UNIQUE Bias Maker. I picked sizes 9mm, 12mm and 25mm. UNIQUE bias makers are simply designed and easy to use. The plastic handle keeps fingers well away from the hot iron needed to create a crisp bias tape edge.

I also picked up some HeatnBond Lite Iron-on adhesive as I wanted to use in my creation. You can choose to make the bias tape and add the fusible web at the same time if you like. I thought my bias tape skills were probably a bit rusty after all these years and wanted to take it easy.

I’ll be honest, creating bias tape can be tricky but as long as you take it slow and follow the instructions (and have a nice hot iron) you’ll be making reams of bias tape in no time, I know I did.

When deciding what pattern you would like to create, there’s no limit. Think of it this way, a strip of bias tape is the same as any other line, you can quite literally draw with bias tape. Look around on Pinterest for ideas and anywhere else you like to find inspiration. I ended up drawing an image of what I thought I could achieve with bias tape… noodles of course! This is my initial drawing.

Remember to keep it simple. I had to make some small changes to the design from the picture, what I want the bias tape to do and what it decides to do are two different things!

Once you have decided on an image, pick your colors. Bias tape works particularly well with solid fabrics but you may choose whatever you like as long as the fabric is good quality.

Photos by Tania Denyer

I’ll go through how to make bias tape step by step, with some tips and tricks I learned as I go along.

Let’s make some noodles! material for creating bias tape 1. iron 2. ironing surface 3. pins 4. fabric, cut into required width

Simple steps to bias tape with

UNIQUE Bias Tape Maker!

5. patience Cut fabrics into the correct width for the bias tape maker you’re using. I chose to cut fabric on the bias but it’s not strictly necessary. The more wavy lines in your design, the more you want to call on the fabric to move, this is where a bias cut tape will help.

I used the 9mm size UNIQUE Bias Maker. I cut my strips into ¾” lengths. Test the first cut strip before making more to make sure it’s the right width.

You may also piece your lengths into one continuous strip but I found the joining seams do not move easily through the bias maker and can cause some frustration so if this process is new to you, eliminate that step.

With all the UNIQUE Bias Makers, the instructions are on the packaging but the steps following have extra hints and tips I’ve learned.

Noodle fabric cut into ¾” bias strips

Pull the fabric through about ½” to 1'' to get the folding action started

1. Cut ¾” strips on the bias (for the 9mm size bias maker) 2. Cut the end of the bias strip at an angle to feed through the bias maker 3. Use a hot iron 4. Using a seam ripper or stiletto push the cut fabric through until the end pokes out 5. Gently pull the edge through, about ½”, this may take some adjusting to get the fold just right, be patient

Pin the pressed end of the bias tape to ironing surface Keep fabric strip taut as it moves through the bias maker

6. Iron the starting end 7. Pin end to ironing surface 8. Continue pressing letting the iron tip push the bias tape maker 9. It helps to pull slightly on the fabric strip as it enters the bias maker, the tension on the fabric strip helps to create a crisp fold 10. Press the entire length of the strip 11. Roll the bias tape to keep the fold if not using right away Make a variety of colors and sizes for your project and as you make more, the process will become easier.

You can roll your bias tape if you wish, I find it keeps its fold longer if I’m not appliqueing it straight away.

Keep bias tape rolled if not using it right away

Click to download PDF Pattern

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Some tips on how to applique bias strips

How to draw with bias binding strips on your quilts The next step in the noodle quilt is drawing with bias binding strips.

Take your time stitching bias strips in place

A closer look at the lettering, you can see the stitching best on the ‘S’

1. Make the background piece at least 2'' larger all around than you want your final piece to be. This allows for wiggle room while sewing the bias strips down. If you are making your own noodle bowl wall hanging you’ll use a ½ yard of bright red fabric.

2. Press the background in half and half again to get a cross-crease to help position the pieces.

3. Decide which line will be the first and pin it down. Use a lot of pins and ease the curves with your fingers. Don’t worry too much, a lot of the crinkle will be erased as it’s sewn down.

4. Take the piece to the sewing machine and sew the inside edge of the bias strip down first. Often the bias strip will lay flat easier when you start with sewing the inner edge down.

5. Take to the iron and press from both sides, front and back.

6. Sew the outside edge of the bias tape.

7. Press again.

8. Continue with this process until your image is complete.

You may transfer the drawn image directly onto the background fabric if you prefer. Remember the bias tape won’t always behave exactly as wanted so use a light pencil or other removable marks in case the bias tape does not completely cover up the lines.

I chose to keep a copy of my design handy so I could compose the lines as I went. You can be as spontaneous or as planned as you prefer, this is your art!

Showing different ways to finish off bias strip ends.

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When I applique, I choose to use my walking or my even feed foot. It allows for a flatter finished stitch and less bunching and stretching of the background fabric.

For my design, I lay down 4 of the noodles first, then add the chop sticks, two more noodles, bowl and finally the lettering.

If you’re making a noodle bowl of your own, the chopsticks are approximately 12'' long, the letters are about 2'' square when complete and the black strips below the bowl are 14'', 8'' and 8''.

I did not use HeatnBond Lite Iron-on adhesive on the back of the noodles as they were fairly easy to create, but I did use HeatnBond on the letters to keep them in place as I sewed them down.

HeatnBond Lite Iron-on adhesive is a good tool, use it carefully and remember you can’t easily move the bias tape once it’s fused in place.

When sewing, it’s easiest to change the thread color with each color of bias tape you sew. If you keep the bobbin thread the same, you avoid the pop-ups that happened in my work. (I used red as my bobbin thread for all colors).

To complete the ends of the bias tape you have a couple of options:

• Fold the bias tape over to make a squared end and sew down.

• Fold the bias tape at a 45 degree

angle, sew all edges and trim the excess.

Last picture is an example of each.

Indispensable tips for bias tape applique quilting Let's discuss how to quilt the applique piece.

It can be a bit intimidating to decide how to quilt your work after you have put in so much effort in the applique. I let the piece tell me how to quilt it, this is my process…

I always use a walking or an even feed foot… always. It makes all the difference to have all layers of your quilted project feeding through your machine evenly. I pick a longer stitch for machine quilting because the needle is going through three layers, you need the length to create an even and visible stitch.

Close up of background quilting in red thread

I work from the inside out. I start by quilting between the noodles and every two or three quilting lines I stitch, I check the back to make sure it’s smooth.

I then stitch outside the noodles to the edge of the quilt. I didn’t go above the chopsticks or below the bowl. I like to work in sections to minimize any chance of bunching, particularly on the back.

Next I stitch the bowl.

Then I work on the top above the chopsticks and below the bowl, still working as much as possible from the outside in.

TIP Keep the quilting in the same direction. I work from the top down. When switching directions, the fabric is pushed in two different directions causing ripples on the front and often puckers in the back.

I change thread color depending on the background, in this case I used red and black. I kept the design simple and made sure there was an even amount of quilting over the entire piece.

TIP Stop quilting every so often, press your work and hold it up to make sure it’s hanging as evenly as possible. Quilts are fabric, so not meant to be perfectly straight like a sheet of paper but you’ll be able to keep distortion in check with this practice.

Enjoy the process and take your time.

I quilted around the applique rather than over it.

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Now I’m giving instructions on how to complete your piece of art to hang on the wall. The following is my preferred technique for binding.

To make the binding, cut strips at 2½” wide x the width of the chosen binding fabric (approximately 42'' on average).

Sew strips together at a 45° angle. Press seams and trim.

A favorite quilt binding technique for a clean finish

Step 1: open your binding strips and press your binding strip end at a 45° angle

Step 2: fold the binding back up and press again

Step 3: trim away the excess leaving about ¼” seam

Now for the hanging sleeve, cut a length of background fabric 3'' x the width of your quilt. Press sides in and bottom-up.

Pin to the top edge of your quilt before adding the binding and pin in place. I was able to create my hanging sleeve from the finished edge of the fabric so I didn’t need to fold the bottom edge under!

Remember to consider the binding and background colors when threading your machine to bind. I had a black thread in the top and a red thread in the bobbin, because my binding is black and my background fabric (on the quilt front) is red.

Make sure the hanging sleeve is flat against the back of the quilt as you sew on the binding.

Stitch machine binding on the back of quilted project, following the binding edge as closely as possible.

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Press length of binding in half and make a 45° cut and fold at the start of the binding, as shown here.

Begin the binding at a few inches away from a lower corner and a few inches past where the binding begins. Stitch all the way around making miters in the corners and when you come to the end/beginning of the binding strip, tuck them together.

Take the quilt to the ironing board and from the front, press the binding to help it flip over to the back.

Fold the binding to the back and pin in a few spots. Machine stitch from the back. If you keep just to the edge of the binding, the seam will nestle just beside the binding on the front.

Press your project and hang it on the wall. Art can be made of fabric too. Now that you have the skills to create bias binding with the Unique Bias Maker, look for images and ways to draw with it again.

It’s been fun sharing my process with you. Please connect on Instagram @iamgingerq so I can see what you create.

Until next time…

With practice, the stitch line of machine binding will nestle beside the binding on the front.

Noodle Bowl Art! With UNIQUE Bias Makers, anything is possible.

Tania Denyer

gingerquilts.ca

A close up showing the front and the back of machine-finished binding… it’s possible!

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Edge-to-Edge Walking Foot Quilting Designs After the resounding success of Melissa Marginet’s Walking Foot Quilting Designs, Melissa is back with her second brilliant book: Edge-to-Edge Walking Foot Quilting Designs. This book is another must-have reference book for your quilting space if you’re serious about exploring exciting ways to quilt your projects.

Edge-to-Edge Walking Foot Quilting Designs is particularly useful for the beginner quilter puzzled about how to quilt on a domestic sewing machine. It’s a reference book you’ll use time and time again for small or large projects. Edge-to-Edge means no threads to bury and no rotating your quilt!

Edge-to-Edge Walking Foot Quilting Designs is a collection of designs that are created from 6 basic designs used in different combinations and orientations to give you over 200 more ideas.

The designs are created for the walking foot but can also be used for free motion quilting, ruler work, long arm quilting, and hand quilting.

For more information or to order online visit Melissa Marginet’s website at http://www.melissamarginet.ca/.

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by Deborah Edwards

Part of our range of Bold, Beautiful Basics, CANVAS features a vibrant palette of premium quality fabrics with a soft hand and a superior thread count. Perfect for adding subtle depth, this range of textured-looking blenders offers 57 saturated colors, that are sure to add some pop to any project. Make your next design jump off the quilt with CANVAS! View the full collection at www.northcott.com and ask your local quilt shop if they are carrying CANVAS!

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#TheSewGoesOn While we are sew at home, together we keep the spirit of sewing alive.

Be part of a passionate sewing community. Share your sewing and quilting projects on Instagram using #TheSewGoesOn Look for giveaways, supplies and special offers!

Share your love of sewing

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Falling in love with Banyan Batiks Kayana autumn fabric collection

Refer to photo when cutting the six 6½” squares in each distinctive colorway.

Claire Haillot If fall is your most favorite season, you'll love this project as it features the Kayana collection from Banyan Batiks which highlights the awesome autumn colorway. It’s the perfect weekend project you can make, no matter your skill level, and gift without breaking your heart.

The secret to this easy project is the beautiful masterpiece #80296-25 from the Kayana Autumn collection as its color changes from one selvage to the other. It’s the perfect key element for the pattern I have in mind.

Falling in love with Kayana Autumn Collection from Banyan Batiks

fabrics • 1½ yds #80296-25 from the Kayana Autumn collection for the top and backing • 1⁄8 yd each of 6 coordinating fabrics from the Kayana Autumn collection • 26” x 38” batting This makes a 24” x 36” quilted throw. cutting instructions Main fabric

• Cut one 12½” piece (D) (ensure this is cut from selvage to selvage)

• Cut one 6½” WOF strip » subcut into six 6½” squares (C)

(ensure the blocks are made with each distinctive colorway: one beige, two pink, one brown and two brown/black) Refer to photo to see color blocks.

Coordinating fabrics

• Cut one 2½” WOF strip from each The main piece of the collection features the color range of the complete collection in a masterful way.

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coordinating fabric » subcut into two 2½” x 6½” rectangles (A) and three 2½” squares (B)

How to choose a quilt design for fabric too beautiful to cut into That’s one thing I truly love about this Kayana collection. Not only are the various fabrics beautiful on their own. But! The main piece featuring a gradation in the colorway from selvage to selvage is absolutely fabulous. Seeing this kind of fabric can sometimes overwhelm us as quilters.

So that’s why I decided to come up with an easy design giving the fabric front and center stage. We automatically think that the fabric is so beautiful that we couldn’t dare cut it. But this project is quite the opposite. At first there’s a huge piece that keeps the gradation levels as is. And then using some squares that have been fussy cut out of sections of the fabric to make solid – ish squares to use inside the project.

Ready to begin this beautiful table runner project that can be done in a weekend?

Begin by sewing two B squares together, pressing the seams toward the darker fabric.

Intimidating no more!

Now that all the pieces are cut, let’s get right into making the main six blocks.

Grab all the A and B pieces and arrange to form six blocks with your favorite color arrangement. Ensure that the color variation is strong enough to actually see the design of the blocks.

Then sew the third B square to the piece, again pressing the seams toward the darker fabric.

Grab all the A and B pieces and arrange to form six blocks while ensuring that the color variation is strong enough to actually see the design of the blocks.

Now sew the three B squares together as established in the arrangement. Begin by sewing two B squares together, pressing the seams toward the darker fabric.

Then sew the third B square to the piece, again pressing the seams toward the darker fabric.

Great work! See how easy it is to enjoy playing with the beautiful fabrics of Banyan Batiks Kayana Autumn Collection without feeling intimidated or overwhelmed!

Sew the A rectangles on each side of the pieces ensuring the right color combination.

Photos by Claire Haillot

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How a short stitch, in quilting, can save the day How the short stitch saves the day Step 1

Kayana Autumn Collection transformed into a beautiful table runner for any occasion.

Design combination 1

Step 2 Position the piece under a ¼” foot positioning the needle ¼” before the center seam. This is Step 2 when the lines on the foot can be pretty useful.

I’ll show my foolproof trick: the short stitch that saves the day.

So now I have six blocks. I also have cut out six solid blocks from the main fabric piece. It’s now time to play with the positioning of the blocks to make the project. You may notice this pattern isn’t like my typical projects. That’s because I really want you to play with the colors and design to your liking, just like the fall foliage is different from one tree to another, this project can also be transformed to feature the colors the way you want it.

I took my blocks and main fabric and played with the disposition on my design wall. Here are the two combinations that caught my attention. Keep in mind that I had only two days to make the project! I personally like symmetrical placements and opted for the second design as shown in the pictures. I found that the light beige block positioned on the near center edge of the table runner made the eye rest and move seemingly through the design.

Design combination 2: my fave!

Sewing the blocks 2 x 2

Remove the piece from the machine and look to ensure that the seams are perfectly aligned.

Sew the 2 x 2 blocks together. And I’ll give you my little trick to sew them together while keeping the seams perfectly aligned.

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Stitch along until reaching ¼” past the center seam. Now remove the piece from the machine and look to ensure Step 3 that the seams are perfectly aligned. If satisfied, sew the two blocks together and continue in the same manner for all the other blocks.

Although for this project, I simply short stitched all the blocks together and then I sewed all of them together.

The last trick I want to show is how I iron the seams on the back. For this project, it’s pretty simple as I simply ensure all of the seams are going in the same direction. You’ll notice that one of the four is heading in the opposite direction, simply turn that one and magically see a mini four patch on the back side.

You can use that trick for each connecting block. It works!

Seams positioned to reduce bulk

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Step 3

Ironing out the seams

Once again, you can opt for another way.

Once the design is chosen, it’s time to sew the blocks 2 x 2.

Align the seams one against the other right sides together, ensuring that they are not overlapping or leaving the tiniest Step 1 gap in between.

Now all that’s left to do is to stitch the main piece onto the edge of my piece.

The final piece top should now measure 24½’’ x 36½’’ and be perfectly aligned as you’ve used my short stitch trick that saves the day.

The secret to modern quilting using the straight stitch A simple yet elegant straight stitch with a solid beige color thread

As time was the essence for this project, I wanted to finish making the table runner in two days, so for quilting, I opted for a simple yet elegant straight line stitch with a solid beige color thread. The use of the beige color quilting thread was perfect again to show off the beautiful Kayana Autumn Color fabrics from Banyan Batiks.

Here's the secret to a straight stitch.

In order to ensure I would not create any distortions while quilting, I started to quilt my first line in the center of the piece. I don’t like to stitch in the ditch, so I align 1⁄8” – ¼” alongside of I started to quilt my first line in the center of the center seam, it the piece helped me to keep a straight line and when quilting the main theme fabric, I simply followed the straight line. It’s ok to use a white fineliner to mark the first line with a ruler if it would make you feel more secure.

Using my foot to determine length between quilting lines

Once the initial line is stitched, I need to stitch along each side going in the opposite direction.

Meaning starting from the main theme fabric to the block section. I simply used the length of my ¼” I used my rulers to square off the piece perfectly. foot to align my next stitch… like I said, I was in a hurry to finish this table runner.

Once those two lines were quilted, I stitched along each side once again starting from the block sections back to the main theme fabric. Basically, I repeated the same alternating direction quilting until the top was all quilted.

The next step was to cut off all the excess backing and batting.

I used my rulers to do so aligning with the seams from my block to ensure I squared off the piece perfectly.

Close up of ruler aligning to seams of the table I hope you enjoyed runner for perfect squaring off learning my secret to a perfect straight stitch to show off the beautiful Kayana Autumn Color fabrics from Banyan Batiks.

Keep reading, I’ll show how I made the binding with alternating fabric for a perfect finish.

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5 tips to create the best ever quilt binding finish I want to share my 5 tips to create the best ever binding finish. This project, made with the beautiful Kayana Autumn Collection by Banyan Batiks is the perfect example of how you can play with the fabric in your binding to get the final touch just right in your table runner.

I usually make a binding by adding the strips at an angle so that it’s virtually impossible to determine where the binding process actually began. But I wanted it to be different for this piece as I had a beautiful corner block showing off a light fabric along with the main piece that changed color along the way. So I needed the binding to showcase the same changes.

TIP 1: Length of binding Now for the record, I always cut my binding strips at 2¼” and fold in half so that I have a double layer binding to ensure longevity. For this project, I started by picking the fabrics and setting them beside the table runner in order to determine which should go where for a better visual impact.

5 tips to create the best ever binding finish

Once I had determined which strip went where, I was able to see which needed to be joined at an angle and which needed to be joined in a straight line. Usually, I don’t recommend joining the strips end to end as the joining area will be bulkier. But the visual impact of adding a light fabric binding edge along the corner block area on this piece outweighed the bulkiness.

TIP 2: Joining strips at a 45° angle I still joined all the other pieces at a 45° angle and sewed them to the table runner before making that corner. Here are the steps:

• Lay the two ends that are to be joined, with right sides together, at a 90° angle. I usually ensure that they overlap each other so that I can clearly see the corners.

• Sew corner to corner across. Look closely at the picture to ensure you’re sewing on the correct angle.

• Cut off the excess fabric, open the seams, and press with an iron.

Setting the binding for best visual impact

Repeat to join all the binding strips, with the exception of the light colored binding.

Fold the strip in half lengthwise and iron the fold.

Begin stitching on the top side of the table runner. Now you’ll want to sew the strip clockwise, so start about 6” – 8” from the edge of the light colored block and sew all the way until you reach 6” – 8” from the other edge of the light colored block.

Joining binding at an angle

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Cut off excess and pressing the seams open

TIP 3: Handling corners Stop sewing at a ¼” from the actual corner, leaving the needle down in the table runner.

Rotate the table runner to sew out to the corner edge.

Take the loose end of your binding and fold away from the table runner, using the seam you just made sewing to the edge of the corner.

Take the long end of the binding once more and fold it back so that the raw edge of the binding lines up with the raw edge of the next section of the table runner.

Begin sewing from the corner edge.

TIP 4: Aligning binding to table runner Align the binding to the side of the table runner and overlap the other binding edge.

I like to use the Omnigrid Marking Ruler to make this part. I set the center of the ruler on the seam of the block and I then mark the ¼” seam along each binding.

Ensure the mark is in excess on the right side. Cut on the mark and sew binding edge to edge. Then sew the binding to the edge of the table runner.

Mark the binding according to block seam

TIP 5: Quick and easy finish Here’s my final trick that I just love when I’m in a hurry to finish a project and really want a perfect binding finish.

I use ¼” HeatnBond Quilter’s Edge IronOn Adhesive Tape on the edge of the back of the table runner and position the edge of the binding over the tape and iron to hold.

Stop sewing at a ¼” from the actual corner, leaving the needle down in the table runner. Then rotate the table runner to sew out to the corner edge.

Position the binding as you want it to look once finished as the iron sets it to the tape and the back of the table runner. Then position the table runner top facing you and stitch in the ditch of the binding. This will be the final step to a perfect finish.

Hope these 5 tips will help you create your best ever binding finish. Hope you enjoyed this beautiful project using the Kayana Autumn Collection

by Banyan Batiks.

Take the loose end of your binding and fold away from the table runner, using the seam you just made sewing to the edge of the corner

Sewing the binding to the edge of the table runner

Adding tape to the back of the binding

Claire Haillot

quiltingwithclaire.com

Stitching in the ditch of the binding for a quick finish Take the long end of the binding once more and fold it back so that the raw edges of the binding lines up with the raw edge of the next section of the table runner

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My batik scrap bucket

Brother Innov-is BQ3050

My Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 with crumb scraps ready to sew!

Crumb quilting: What’s it all about?

Jean Boyd

Most quilters can’t bear to part with scraps of favorite fabrics and tend to keep them in little bins and boxes for future use. Crumb quilting, although not a new idea, is enjoying a resurgence now as we try to use up all those bits of fabric we’ve been saving. Basically, it’s sewing small pieces of fabric together to make new fabric which can be cut up to make blocks, borders, sashing and more.

I’ll be using the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 machine to do some crumb quilting using batik fabrics from my scrap bucket.

Here’s a video you might like to watch for an introduction to the crumb quilting technique.

Crumb scraps ready to sew together

Although I can just grab pieces from my scrap bin and start sewing them together, I decided to sort my batik scraps into light and dark values for 2 different projects.

Let’s start with the light fabric first!

Take 2 scraps of fabric and sew them together. The pieces don’t have to be the same size. As long as there is one straight edge on each scrap, I can sew them together.

Sew several pairs of scraps together. This is a good time to use either the ¼” foot with guide or the ¼” foot without the guide.

If some pieces end up too large, just cut them in half with either a straight or diagonal line.

Sometimes I’ll have a long strip of fabric to use. Sew several small pieces along one edge of the strip. Then cut the strip into smaller sections.

¼” foot with guide on the left and ¼” foot without the guide on the right

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Start sewing the pairs together to make 4 patches. Again, the pieces don’t have to be the same size. Look for straight edges to sew together. I can always trim one side so it’s straight if necessary.

Sew the 4 patches together to make a piece with 8 patches.

Keep sewing sections together until you have a piece the size you need.

Sometimes there are multiple seams to stitch over. I love the way the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 machine, with it’s automatic fabric sensor system, allows me to do this so easily. Make sure this key in the on position!

Cut larger pieces in half to make even more crumbs!

Sew several small pieces to one long piece.

Cut the long piece into smaller sections.

Sew 2 patch sections together to make 4 patches.

Position the 6½” square ruler where I wish to cut.

Sew smaller sections together to make larger pieces.

After the 6½” square is cut, I have more crumb pieces to use in another section.

Make sure the automatic fabric sensor system is turned on!

I’m cutting my crumbfabric into 6½” squares using a 6½” square ruler. I’ll use that measurement as a guide to let me know how big to make my new fabric.

After I cut the 6½” squares, I’ll have some fabric leftover, so I can continue to add crumb pieces until I have a piece big enough to cut another 6½” square.

Photos by Jean Boyd

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Crumb blocks for a wall quilt

Arrange 9 – 6½” blocks as desired.

Sew blocks together to make 3 rows of 3.

Now the piece is ready to be quilted!

Because of the busy design that’s been created, it’s probably best to do a simple quilt design.

You could also use these 6½” blocks for a cushion top, tote bag or part of a larger quilt, and you could make larger blocks if you wish. The possibilities are endless when crumb quilting and it feels so good to be able to use up those scraps I can’t bear to part with!

Crumb fabric made from little scraps

Now it’s time to use my new fabric. Of course, I could have kept making these crumb blocks, but I wanted to get on to another project using my dark batik scraps. So I decided to make a little wall quilt which could also be used as a table topper.

Arrange the 6½” blocks as desired.

The MuVit dual-feed foot that comes with the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 allows you to do this very easily. There are 5 different feet for the dual feed foot, including a stitch in the ditch foot that makes the quilting process almost foolproof.

Sew the blocks together to make 3 rows of 3.

Have a look at this video to see the MuVit foot in action.

Borders

Many of the decorative stitches can also be used for quilting. The serpentine stitch is a favorite of mine and you can easily change the width and length just by pushing the + and – buttons on the screen. And of course, I love the wide 5” x 11¼” workspace on the machine when quilting!

Let’s get started!

• From crumb fabric, cut 9 – 6½” blocks.

I cut my border strips 6” wide, but that can be adjusted to any size you like.

• From border fabric, cut 2 – 6” x 18½” and 2 – 6” x 29½”.

• Sew the 18½” strips to the top and bottom.

• Sew a 29½” strip to each side.

The serpentine stitch is a favorite stitch for quilting.

The MuVit dual feed foot comes with 5 different feet.

6” borders have been sewn on.

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MuVit dual feed foot with the open toe foot attached

How to piece crumb blocks into larger pieces of fabric I’ll show another project using the same crumb quilting technique, but this time I’ll be using dark-colored scraps. The batiks are so easy to use in a project like this, as the edges don’t fray or stretch. This is really important because of all the bias edges that occur when crumb quilting.

Starting a crumb quilt project

• Start by sewing 2 small scraps

together to make several 2 patch blocks. The scraps can be as small as 1½” square for this technique. Use squares, strips or any odd-shaped pieces you have.

• Sew 2 patch blocks together to make 4 patch blocks.

I’m making 3 – 8½” blocks that look like this: cutting instructions for each block

• 1 – 4½” square for center of block • 4 – 1½” x 6½” for border around center square

• 4 – 2½” x 8½” crumb strips for outer border

• Sew 4 patch blocks together to make 8 patch blocks.

• As you finish each set of blocks,

straighten one edge so it’s ready to sew to the next set.

• Keep adding pieces until you have

created a new piece of fabric in the size you want.

My first crumb quilt made on the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050

Sew small scraps together to make 2 patch blocks.

In the last project, I cut my crumb fabric into 6½” blocks, but this time I’m using my new fabric to make borders. I want my borders to be 2½” x 8½”, so that’s a guide for how big to make my crumb fabric pieces.

Sew small scraps together to make 2 patch blocks.

8½” block with crumb quilt borders

Sew small sections together to get the size of block you need.

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Piecing the crumb quilt is easy using the ¼” foot with guide Let's put it all together.

Sew a 2½” x 8½” crumb pieced strip to one side, using a partial seam.

• Sew on the remaining 1½” strips.

• Sew on the remaining 2½” strips in the same way as the strips around the center square.

• Finish the partial seam that was sewn first.

sewing instructions

• Sew a 1½” x 6½” strip to one side of a 4½” square using a partial seam.

• Press seam toward strip.

Sew on the remaining 1½” strips.

• Finish the partial seam that was sewn on first.

Sew the crumb pieced strips around the center square. Then finish the partial seam that was sewn first.

Sew a 1½” x 6½” strip to a 4½ square, using a partial seam.

The block now measures 10½” x 10½”.

I’ll also be giving some tips on quilting your crumb quilt projects using the MuVit dual feed foot and the free motion quilting feet that come with the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 machine.

• Sew another 1½” x 6½” strip to the next side of the square.

Finish sewing the partial seam that was sewn on first.

• Sew a 2½” x 8½” crumb pieced strip to one side, using a partial seam.

Sew another 1½” x 6½” strip to the next side of the square.

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You’ll notice I’m using the ¼” foot with guide but you could also use the ¼” foot without the guide if you wish. Either one helps give a perfect ¼” seam, but I find the ¼” foot with guide gives that extra hand in keeping the fabric steady on its course.

Finished 10½” block

Brother BQ3050 and its 3 free motion feet How to finish the table runner using 3 crumb-pieced blocks:

Because of the busy design that has been created, it’s probably best to do some simple quilting in the blocks. You can be a little more adventurous in the unpieced outer Turn on the automatic fabric borders!

• Sew 1½” x 10½” sashing strips between the blocks.

• From border fabric, cut 2 – 5” x 32½” for side borders and 2 – 5” x 19½” for the top and bottom borders.

sensor key to ensure

The MuVit dual feed smooth stitching. foot that comes with the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 allows you to do this very easily. If you didn’t have a chance to look at the MuVit dual feed video be sure to watch it now. It really shows how versatile the MuVit dual feed foot is.

• Sew on the side

borders first and then the top and bottom borders.

There are lots of seams to sew through when making crumb quilts, but the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 machine has no problem sewing through them. Make sure you have the key for the automatic fabric sensor in the on position! Then the thickness of the fabric is automatically detected and the foot pressure is automatically adjusted while sewing to ensure the fabric is fed through smoothly. What a great feature!

When you have your blocks all put together, you’re ready for quilting!

Block with crumb pieced border made on the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 machine.

The free motion foot E, shown on the left in the picture below, is used for echo quilting. The circular lines on the foot are ¼” and 3⁄8” away from the needle position, so it’s easy to follow previous stitching lines at an equal distance.

Free motion foot C, shown in the middle in the picture below, should be used with the straight stitch needle plate for consistent stitching. Use straight stitch Q-01 or 1-30 when using this foot.

Free motion foot O, shown on the right in the picture below, is used for free motion quilting with zigzag or decorative stitches OR for free motion quilting of straight lines on fabric with an uneven thickness.

I love how the MuVit attachment comes Sew sashing strips between the blocks.

3 different free motion feet come with the Brother Innov-is BQ3050 machine.

The MuVit dual feed foot comes with 5 different feet.

with 5 different feet. You’ll be sure to find one that’s perfect for your quilting style.

The dual feed foot can be used with any of the straight or zigzag stitch patterns.

It’s best to sew at slow or medium speeds when using this foot.

Sew on side borders first and then top and bottom borders.

You could also do some free motion quilting in the plain borders of this table runner. The Brother Innov-is BQ3050 has 3 different free motion feet from which to choose. When doing free motion quilting you can use most of the straight, zigzag and decorative stitches. If you’re new to this technique, it’s a good idea to do some practice stitching before working on your quilt.

When free motion quilting, you can adjust the height of the presser foot to match the thickness of your quilt. Just press the + or – key on the free motion foot height bar on the screen. Another great feature on the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050!

I hope you’ve enjoyed trying some crumb quilt projects. I loved using the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 machine in doing so. It’s always exciting to try new techniques and use some of the many attachments that come with this machine. Don’t be afraid to play and have fun with your machine!

Jean Boyd

patternsbyjeanboyd.com

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This modern baby quil t steals the show!

Sarah Vanderburgh

Baby quilts are a fun and hopeful project. Let’s make one! I invite you to go on an adventure into the stitching land of the PFAFF performance icon. I have to admit, there isn’t another machine I’d like to take on this trip than the performance icon.

We have become close friends :) This quilt was inspired by a lot of things, including the colors of the year. I also wanted to challenge myself to make a modern quilt with solids – a very different kind of journey for me! This quilt would also be fun in novelty prints or more than 3 solid colors, so use what you have on hand.

Mostly the fabric is just the background for the story the stitches tell. I thought about what kind of blessing or dreams I would want to share with a new baby and its family to give me some focus or a theme. I came up with the song, Climb Every Mountain, from The Sound of Music. I hope you’ll be able to see how the lyrics inspired my stitching and truly led me on a wonderful quilting adventure.

PFAFF performance icon

materials fabric

• 1 yd Fabric Creations 100% cotton – royal blue • 1 yd Fabric Creations 100% cotton – kelly green • 1 yd Fabric Creations 100% cotton – white other stabilizer- I used INSPIRA Fast and Easy Tear-A-Way Light UNIQUE Quilter’s Fast Fade marker purple – thin tip 55“ square of batting 55“ square of backing; I used leftover yardage from my Fabric Creations 100% cotton fabric 2 yd packs • threads to coordinate and contrast with fabrics – I used blue, green, white, and yellow Gütermann thread

• • • •

Cutting Instructions Cut pieces in order given to make best use of fabric Blue

• 6 – 9“ squares • 2 – 8½” squares • 12 – 4½” x 8½” rectangles Green

• 6 – 9“ squares • 2 – 8½” squares • 12 – 4½” x 8½” rectangles White

Modern baby quilt

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• 4 – 9“ squares • 8 – 4½” x 8½” rectangles

Floating stitches on a modern baby quil t makes all the difference I’ll show the floating stitch technique built into the PFAFF performance icon used in the making of the modern baby quilt.

TIP Have the edge of the two-layered fabrics and stabilizer lined up with the inner metal edge of the presser foot; this way the seam allowance will stay intact.

Floating stitch menu

Repeat to make the following number of rectangle units: • Use yellow Gütermann thread to make 4 white and blue rectangle units – I used floating stitch 8.5.11.

• Use blue Gütermann thread to make 4 green and white rectangle units – I used floating stitch 8.5.6.

• Use white Gütermann thread to make 8 blue and green rectangle units – I used floating stitch 8.5.10 on 4 and floating stitch 8.5.2 on the remaining 4.

Floating stitches are found in section 8, the Techniques stitches. Submenu 5 shows all of the floating stitches built into the performance icon.

Touch the menu icon in the top right of the Sewing Mode on the large Color Touch Screen. From here you can select your stitch and find some important details, like which presser foot to use to best execute the stitch.

Presser feet for floating stitches With my stitch selected, the bottom right of the screen tells me the presser foot to use – the Bi-Level Guide Foot included with the machine – and gives me written instructions on what to do with my fabric. Reading further I find out the Bi-Level Guide Foot is used when I’m stitching on one piece of fabric folded over; for use with two fabrics, I will use the 1A foot. Both of these feet engage with the IDT to feed the fabrics evenly under the needle. Touch the word LOAD to bring your selected stitch into Sewing Mode.

Sew the rectangle units To make a rectangle unit, select a floating stitch. Put two Fabric Creations 100% cotton fabric rectangles right sides together, and place a 1” strip of INSPIRA Fast and Easy Tear-A-Way Light stabilizer on the bottom of the pair along one long edge.

Stitch the floating stitch down the edge of the pair. Remove the tear-a-way stabilizer then gently pull the fabrics open to reveal the floating stitches.

You could chain stitch all of the rectangle units of the same pair to make good use of your sewing time – if you do, be sure to press the Stitch restart button so the floating stitches start at the same spot on each pair. Or don’t! It could be fun to see the stitch not look the same from unit to unit.

I forgot to take photos of the units before quilting; the 'floating stitch' photo shows a white and blue rectangle unit with its floating stitch.

I also quilted down each side of the stitch with thread that blended into the fabrics to emphasize the floating stitch on the quilt.

The floating stitches really add some character to the rectangle units. I imagined creating stars and lakes and mountains while I was stitching mine!

Floating stitch menu

Presser feet for floating stitches

Fabric edge lined up with inner metal edge of presser foot 1A

Floating stitch 8.5.11

Photos by Sarah Vanderburgh

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HSTs and piecing a baby quil t top with PFAFF performance icon The PFAFF performance icon isn’t only full of built-in stitch techniques but is a great machine for precise sewing. I’ll sew half-square triangle units and put the top together.

Half Square Triangles (HSTs) Make HSTs using pairs of Fabric Creations 100% cotton fabric 9“ squares listed: • 2 white and blue • 4 blue and green • 2 green and white 1. Draw a diagonal line on the back of one fabric square with UNIQUE Quilter’s Fast Fade marker.

2. Sew second fabric square to diagonal line fabric square, right sides together, by sewing ¼” away from each side of the drawn line.

3. Cut on the drawn line to create 2 HSTs. Press the seam to the darker fabric.

4. Trim each HST to 8½” square.

Bottom left quadrant

Assemble the quilt top quadrants Now that all the units are made, it’s time to start putting together the quilt top. I found it easiest to assemble one quadrant of the quilt at a time using my design wall. I also chose to use matching rectangle units in each quadrant.

Use the photos below to assemble each quadrant. I included arrows to show pressing directions for each seam in the rows and then how to press the rows together.

Bottom left quadrant layout and pressing directions

Bottom right quadrant

Top left quadrant

Bottom right quadrant layout and pressing directions

You can read a post I wrote Two ways to trim larger Half Square Triangles without a square ruler with tips to help with trimming half-square triangles that are this big.

Top left quadrant layout and pressing directions

Top right quadrant

The bright LED lighting and the wide harp of the PFAFF performance icon makes it easy to spend time putting Sewing blocks into rows with PFAFF the modern baby performance icon quilt together.

Assemble the quilt top Sew the quadrants together and you’re done! The seams should nest easily on the quadrants. Sew the top quadrants together and press the seam to the right; sew the bottom quadrants together and press the seam to the left. Sew the top and bottom together and press the seam to the bottom quadrants.

Top right quadrant layout and pressing directions

Trim half square triangles

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The quilt is ready to stitch on now.

Thanks to the PFAFF performance icon this step went smoothly and quickly.

Radiant Stitches on the performance icon add joy to a baby quil t The PFAFF performance icon is making quick work of this project and giving me so many opportunities to take creative license with this quilt.

Mark the radiant lines To get ready for the radiant stitches I have to plan ahead. I marked the curved lines for the stitches before I layered and pinned the quilt together with the backing and the batting. I used a glass pie plate and the UNIQUE Quilter’s Fast Fade marker to mark my lines.

Radiant stitches Radiant stitches are in section 8, Technique stitches, just like the floating stitches. Select subsection 6 to view them all in the Stitch menu. The Stitch menu gives you details about stitches before you select them including in this case, instructions on how to stitch out radiant stitches. This is how I knew I needed the UNIQUE Quilter’s Fast Fade marker!

Once you’re done reading, touch LOAD to bring your selected radiant stitch into sewing mode.

The radiant stitches stitch out behind the presser foot – making sure I turned the fabric the right direction was the only hard part of this process. And really, it just meant I had to pay attention.

Pie plate and UNIQUE Quilter’s Fast Fade marker

Prepare the quilt for quilting With the label stitched into the backing, I’m now ready to lay out the backing, batting, and quilt top to pin baste them together. I also cleaned the floor first!

To start quilting the quilt, I sewed in the ditch of the vertical block seams with blue thread. Then I went in the ditch of the half-square triangles and sewed beside both sides of the floating stitches. I did all of the blue, then switched to green to do the green areas and finally the white.

Once this grid of quilting was in place, it was time to start the radiant stitches.

To use this technique, line up the needle with the marked line and press the Start/ Stop button. When the machine stops, turn the fabric and then press the button again. When the machine completes the stitch it stops again. Turn the fabric again and line it up with the marked line. This process repeats until the line is complete.

I used the Cut function button at the end of a line so the machine could secure the threads and snip them for me.

Stitching with a contrasting thread helped me create the forest and wilderness I was planning since I began this stitching adventure.

Radiant stitch instructions in Stitch Menu screen.

Start of radiant stitch row

I used as many radiant stitches as I dared! I limited myself to three radiant stitches in each quadrant. I played with using thread that contrasted or blended into the fabric color. I like to think I created sunshine, rain, pine trees, birch trees, flowers, snow (it happens in the mountains!), and goldenrod (weeds happen too!). See, I told you this was my favorite stitch technique yet!

I was really anxious to try out the radiant stitches on the PFAFF performance icon.

I had to basically make a quilt before I could test out my ideas and I was so glad to see them stitch out!

Radiant stitch line almost complete

Quilt layers pinned on floor

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Stippling Stitches on the

performance icon add whimsy to a baby quil t Modern baby quilt

The story continues with more built-in stitches on the PFAFF performance icon, and I need to finish all of the quilting and bind the quilt. Of course, I can have fun while I’m doing it!

Stippling stitches I used several stippling stitches to add more adventurous details to this modern baby quilt. I didn’t want to do a lot of quilting because I like baby quilts to have some loft. I also didn’t use all of the stippling stitches – the quilt is starting to look busy as it is!

You can check out all of the stitches available on the PFAFF performance icon in the Stitch Guide document here.

I used the same stipple stitch (2.2.10) with a longer stitch length (80mm) in most of the triangles and where two rectangle units met. I also used thread that matched the fabric so it wouldn’t be a visual distraction.

I like to think I stitched river streams and walking paths, but maybe it’s just a curvy texture that the eye appreciates with all of the straight edges in the quilt.

Green stippling stitch

I did add a few shamrocks though.

Binding I used up the rest of the green and blue Fabric Creations 100% cotton fabric in the binding along with white. You need approximately 200” of binding.

The quilt should trim square and be approximately 48” square.

I cut the binding at 2¼” which is narrower than I usually do – I just wanted to make best use of my remaining fabric and I’m so glad I did! I really like how the binding turned out. I even changed the thread as I sewed to keep it hidden in the binding.

The modern baby quilt was an enjoyable stitching adventure for me. I was so happy the radiant stitches were all I hoped they would be. The PFAFF performance icon continues to take me on many happy quilting trails. Thanks for following along!

Sarah Vanderburgh Three fabrics used for binding

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sewjoycreations.com

Yo-yos make your quilts complete Yo-yos are a fun way to complete your quilt. They can be the whole quilt or they can be easy and fast embellishments on your quilt or quilted items. Here you can find two simple ways to make yo-yos.

– Jackie

skill level beginner

materials fabric • scraps of fabric, depending on your size of yo-yo, a 5'' square for the larger one • a 3'' square for the smaller one other • TrueCut 360

instructions

Use the TrueCut 360 to cut your circle to your exact specifications.

Creating a Yo-yo 1. This first method creates what I call a raw edge yo-yo. Do a running stitch around the perimeter of the yo-yo starting on the wrong side and about 1⁄4'' from the edge.

2. Once stitches are completely around the circle, pull to gather and do a few stitches to hold.

3. Finesse to get a nice looking circle.

4. Create a smaller yo-yo to go on top of the large one and stitch down.

To create what I call a finished yo-yo, as you do your running stitch, fold your fabric in wrong sides together from the edge about 1⁄4'' and stitch through both layers going around the perimeter.

Do a running stitch 1⁄4'' from edge of circle.

When gathering the yo-yo, you can either pull tight or because you have a nice clean looking finish, leave a small opening in which you can insert a corresponding fabric and stitch down to give a unique look.

Yo-yo completed with raw edge finish.

Put a small yo-yo on top of a larger one to cover the gathered hole.

Slip a small piece of fabric into opening of yo-yo to create a pretty center.

If you want to sew yo-yos together, do simple slip stitches at the edges of each yo yo to join. Try adding a few onto your next quilt or quilted bag to make it look fun and show off your creativity.

Create a more finished looking yo-yo by folding the fabric in and stitching through both layers around the circle.

Photos by Jackie White

Yo-yos can really make your quilt complete!

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Pam Voth

Social Distancing – the perfect time for a hexies quilt pattern

Staying connected – quilting mentors and social distancing

I decided to approach social distancing and this time of isolation with an attitude of gratitude. I have lots to be thankful for – that I had started my own stash of fabrics – some may call it a ‘hoard’ but, just like that, it went from hoarding to being prepared!

I also decided to live in the learning/growing zone of this experience, expanding my learning from my last baby quilt and look for opportunities and ask myself, “When I look back at all, what do I want this moment to have been?”

Luckily, we have SO MANY ways to stay connected so, through the magic of Facebook messenger and Zoom and texting, I still managed to stay connected to my quilters and, now, my dear friends.

Fabric for my hexagon table runner with matching Gütermann thread

I had expressed a desire to create a spring table runner and prior to isolation, we headed out to shop for some spring fabrics. I have now experienced several ‘quilting group’ fabric shopping trips that include great advice, lunch, laughs and connection and friendship.

In a bit of pre-isolation wisdom, I even purchased a hexagon-maker I found NOT in the fabric section of the craft store (as we were chastised by the salesperson – apparently hexagons are not real quilting???) but instead, in the scrap booking/paper craft section. In this lesson: Don’t let anyone – ever – make you feel bad about your project. If you use batting, it’s quilting.

Paper hexies ready for Fabric with Fiskars Hexie Maker

So, with my fabrics, purchased and some from my stash, I consulted my online sources for ideas (thanks, QUILTsocial).

My quilting mentor guided me into the world of hexies, both a time consuming and satisfying way to spend days, weeks, months! At the moment, time is definitely my friend and besides – I was enthralled with this new project idea. I began by making cardboard hexies…using my hexi-maker.

Basting the fabric to the cardboard hexie

I decided that I would make 10 flowers and use the butterfly fabric for the background. I picked 7 fabrics for the flowers and began cutting and ironing my fabric into hexies. I looked up on YouTube how to baste them, picture my sad face because I couldn’t just go over and ask my mentors to show me. Sometimes, however, it’s good to figure things out for yourself and then brag about it.

I think for most of us, we miss the physical closeness of the groups we had during ‘real’ life – although this is feeling pretty real at the moment…

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I decided some online chatting and show and tell would help, so we had a sharing Wednesday morning meeting. I got to ask a few questions, like… How does one sew these flower petals together?

I was also inspired by new projects that were being completed, started, and those considered.

Cutting large hexies using my Fons&Porter Hexagon Ruler (Omnigrid) and Omnigrid Cutter

Now, I find that when I complete a piece of a project or a project completely, I text a picture for feedback, praise and suggestions. Staying connected is the important thing and feeling grateful to have quilting as something to fill my days is a thought I have daily and often share with my quilting friends.

Even if we are apart, the joy of our connectedness through quilting is still there.

Eventually, after a couple of tries, I figured out how to create my flowers without the threads showing through where I had sewn them.

10 hexagons ready to attach to my table runner

Now, with the flowers nearly completed, I needed to figure out how to display them on my runner. I texted for advice. I felt I needed to add a background to my flowers so they didn’t get lost in the butterflies and my quilting friends completely agreed, so now for cutting bigger sized hexies for the background with a different sort of ruler.

With the hexie flowers stitched to the background, I was ready to sew them to my runner.

Do you know that feeling when you find a piece of matching fabric that’s exactly the right size for the back of your runner?

I do…because during a pandemic, you don’t just run out to search for a new piece of fabric!

Auditioning a layout

Now, I find that I don’t have enough batting, so with spray basting and patience, I made a big enough piece of batting.

Background, quilt batting and butterfly front pinned together…. now to add the hexies in a pattern.

It takes a LOT of attempts to figure out how you want to arrange your hexies on the quilt – that’s fine. It’s the balance between showing off the background and arranging them (using a ruler) to look appropriately spaced on the background.

You can be the judge of my success with this!!

Photos by Pam Voth

Sewing the hexagons to the runner using Gütermann thread

Spray basting the batting together

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Now to quilt – machine quilting – thanks to my mentors and some confidence from doing it and doing it and doing it, I quilted around the large hexie shape…three times.

Ready to machine quilt

OK, now for binding…time to watch a video to remind me how to do it.

I cut the strip, pieced it together and ironed it in half. Attaching the raw edge to the right side of my runner, I sewed a ¼” seam to attach the binding to the runner. Oh, and just to be clear, I did NOT plan ahead so, it was a bit of a scramble to find a piece of fabric with enough on it to make the binding. Not to mention, cutting it the WRONG width to start with and then having to re-cut…just enough fabric…luck was definitely on my side.

Preparing the binding using clips and the iron

The final step…another project almost complete…picture me celebrating by text and Zoom with my quilting group.

I folded and pressed the binding around to the back of the quilt and the blind stitching began. I chose blind stitching because I don’t think I would be able to sew the binding on by machine to my satisfaction. I know, that’s pretty crazy but, the more I quilt, the higher my standards get.

What is up next for me? The Dresden Plate… yes, I looked it up and it’s beautiful. I’m hoping that if it all works out, I’ll give it to my friend and mentor (although not a quilting mentor) for her 80th birthday.

Machine quilting around the hexagons

Quilting allows you so many opportunities to connect with people – from the online conversations, the texts and the phone calls, to the opportunity to give your hard work and love-filled pieces to some of your favorite people.

Pam Voth

The finished table runner

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Kelly's Creative Sewing 804 Main St, Dartmouth, NS B2W 3V1  902.435.7380  kellyscreativesewing.ca  kellyscreativesewing@gmail.com We offer sales and on-site service of high-end domestic embroidery, sewing machines and sergers, as well as a variety of educational programs.

Ottawa Sewing Centre 1390 Clyde Ave, #107, Ottawa, ON K2G 3H9  613.695.1386  ottawasewing.com  ottawasewing@gmail.com Authorized Dealers for Brother, BabyLock, Elna, Q'nique & Grace quilting frames. Specialize in sales, parts & servicing for all makes & models of quilting/ embroidery/sewing/serger/overlock machines & cabinets by Sylvia Design.

Sew Inspired 375 Daniel St S, Arnprior, ON K7S 3K6  613.623.0500  sewinspired.ca  info@sewinspired.ca Your Ottawa Valley PFAFF® Authorized Dealer. We have a large supply of quilting & sewing supplies, knitting supplies, as well as in stock PFAFF® sewing machines.

We also have a listing of sewing and quilting classes.

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Sew With Vision 480 Parkland Dr, Halifax, NS B3S 1P9  902.479.2227  sewwithvision.net Authorized PFAFF, HUSQVARNA VIKING, and SINGER dealer and service provider offering an extensive line of sewing, embroidery and serger machines, as well as long-arm quilting systems.

That Sewing Place 16610 Bayview Ave #10, Newmarket, ON L3X 1X3  905.715.7725  thatsewingplace.ca  jaret@thatsewingplace.ca Introducing That Sewing Place as your sewing source and Authorized Dealers for Bernina and Brother machines.

Our focus is on placing your sewing needs first, providing outstanding support, service, and training.

The Quilt Store / Evelyn's Sewing Centre 17817 Leslie St, Unit 40, Newmarket, ON L3Y 8C6  905.853.7001 or toll-free 1.888.853.7001 The Quilt Store West 695 Plains Rd E, Unit 6, Burlington, ON L7T 2E8  905.631.0894 or toll-free 1.877.367.7070  thequiltstore.ca Now with 2 locations to serve you, we are your Quilt Store Destination! The staff here at The Quilt Store is always on hand to provide Quilt Wisdom, Quilt Inspiration and most of all we pride ourselves as the place to make... All Your Quilt Dreams Come True!

The Stitcher's Muse Needleart #101 - 890 Crace St, Nanaimo, BC V9R 2T3  250.591.6873  thestitchersmuse.com  info@thestitchersmuse.com A divine little shop with supplies for all your hand stitching needs! Friendly, knowledgeable, helpful staff.

Cross stitch, canvaswork, needlepoint, embroidery, counted thread, lace making & more. Books, patterns, fabric, threads, tools.

The Yarn Guy 15 Gower St, Toronto, ON M4B 1E3  416.752.1828 or toll-free 1.800.836.6536  theyarnguy.com  info@sewknit.ca See us on Facebook, follow us on Twitter!

Knitting machines, sewing machines, repairs, parts for Passap, Studio, Singer, Silver Reed, Superba, White.

Sewing notions and supplies, books, ball yarns, coned yarns, TAMM yarns, Paton's yarns, Bernat yarns, Phentex yarns, Bernat kits & crafts.

Upper Canada Quiltworks – Quiltworks Studio 37 Perth St, Brockville, ON K6V 5C3  613.865.7299; Open 10-4, Tuesday-Saturday  uppercanadaquiltworks.com  uppercanadaquiltworksstudio@gmail.com Quilt patterns and books, fabric and notions, felted wool, wool kits, punchneedle patterns and supplies and Valdani embroidery floss. Workshops in quilting, punchneedle, wool applique, rug-hooking, sewing, sign painting & more!

Brandon Sewing Centre 821 Princess Ave, Brandon MB R7A 0P5, 204.727.2752 Carellan Sewing Centre 1685 Corydon Ave, Winnipeg MB R3N 0J8 204.488.2272, facebook.com/CarellanSewingCentre K&A Quilt Studio 160 Ingersoll St S, Ingersoll ON N5C 3V3 519.425.4141, kaquiltstudio.com Stitch By Stitch 550 Days Rd Unit 1, Kingston ON K7M 3R7 613.389.2223, stitchbystitchkingston.com UNITED STATES A-1 Singer Sewing Center 1012 S Oliver St, Wichita KS 67218 316.685.0226, a-1singer.com American Folk Art and Craft Supply 1415 Hanover St, West Hanover, MA 02339 781.871.7277, americanfolkartonline.com Charlotte Sewing Studio 1109 Tamiami Trl Unit 2, Port Charlotte FL 33953 941.235.3555, charlottesewingstudio.com Close to Home Sewing Center 277 Hebron Ave, Glastonbury CT 06033 860.633.0721, closetohomestores.com

Cottage Quilts * Sew Creative Studio 1310 Center Dr Unit A, Medford OR 97501 541.500.8071, cottage-quilts.com Discount Fabric Warehouse 933 Kanoelehua Ave, Hilo HI 96720 808.935.1234, discountfabricwarehouse.com El Cajon Sew & Vac 1077 Broadway, El Cajon CA 92021 619.442.2585, sewezr.com Hursh's Country Store 2425 W Main St, Ephrata, PA 17522-8426 717.721.2575 hurshscountrystore.com Jessamine Quilt Shop LLC 1301 Old Cherokee Rd, Lexington SC 29072-9047 803.490.1031, jessaminequiltshop.com JS Linen and Curtain Outlet 1250 Northside Dr, Statesville NC 28625 704.871.1939, jslinenoutlet.com/js-quilt-shop Just Sew Studio 51 Third St NE, Waite Park MN 56387 320.654.1580, justsewstudiomn.com Keeping You Sewing 226 4th Ave S, Clinton IA 52732 563.242.6135, keepingyousewing.com Lone Star Quiltworks 4301 S Texas Ave, Bryan TX 77802-4360 979.595.1072, lonestarquiltworks.com Maryland Vacuum and Sewing Center 26845 Point Lookout Rd, Leonardtown MD 20650 240.309.4019, mdvacsew.com New England Sewing 501 Hartford Rd, Manchester CT 06040 860.647.8119, nesewing.com Options Quilt Shop 102 E Commerce St, Jacksonville TX 75766 903.586.9546, optionsquiltshop.com Paramount Sewing & Vacuum 3960 Rickey St SE, Salem OR 97317 503.990.8186, paramount-sew-vac.com Pick Your Stitch 6701 Manlius Center Rd, East Syracuse NY 13057 315.437.0962, pickyourstitch.com Quality Vac and Sew 1213 Gilmore Ave Ste E2B, Winona MN 55987-2632 507.452.2203, qualityvacandsew.com Quilter's Attic Sewing Center 118 Maple Ave, Pine Bush NY 12566 845.744.5888, quiltersattic.com Quilters' Corner @ Middlebury Sew-N-Vac 260 Court St Ste 4, Middlebury VT 05753 802.388.3559, middleburysewnvac.com Quintessential Quilts 4261 Lien Rd Ste M, Madison WI 53704 608.242.8555, qquilts.com Select Sewing 2415 East 65th St, Indianapolis IN 46220 317.255.6332, selectsewingservice.com Sew Special 688 W Main St, Uniontown PA 15401 724.438.1765, sew-special.biz Sew What? Fabric Shoppe 7 W Front St, Addison NY 14801 607.359.4308, sewwhatfabricshoppe.com Sierra Sewing, Quilting, and Vacuums 8056 S Virginia St Ste 6, Reno NV 89511 775.823.9700, sierrasewing.com Singer Factory Distributor 4914 W Irving Park Rd, Chicago IL 60641 773.545.6834, singerfactorydistributor.com Suddenly Sewing 5850 Kroger Dr Ste 110, Fort Worth TX 76244 817.741.5400, suddenlysewing.com Thimbelina's Quilt Shop 118 North B St Ste B, Livingston MT 59047-2662 406.222.5904, thimbelinasquiltshop.com Wise Monkey Quilting 501 Hwy 39 N, Denison IA 51442 712.393.7979, wisemonkeyquilting.com

Light Years Beyond

Presenting the Luminaire 2 Innov-ís XP2. Brilliant new quilting innovations and app-based features available from your mobile devices let you find perfection in every stitch.

13.1"

Enjoy StitchVision technnology and see your designs projected on fabric before you begin to embroider.

Experience the comfort of sewing on 65 square inches of workspace, the largest of any Brother machine.

The Luminaire 2 has the magic of 192 built-in Disney embroidery designs and 10 decorative Disney stitches.

Stop your stitch in the perfect place just by placing the Snowball End Point Sticker on your project.

Large 10.1” HD LCD touchscreen display with capacitive technnology.

Enjoy 2-colour quilting sash designs, built-in hexagon shapes for auto split sash, single or triple stitching, and more.

Visit an authorized Brother dealer today to find out more! brother.ca/en/XP2 Photos are for illustration purposes only. Brother and its logo are trademarks of Brother Industries, Ltd., Japan. All specifications are subject to change without notice. All registered trademarks referenced herein are the property of their respective companies. ©2020 Brother International Corporation (Canada) Ltd. 1, rue Hôtel de Ville, Dollard-des-Ormeaux, Québec, H9B 3H6. 09/2020-2020-1065

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Visit www.ANPTmag.com to order

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Get quilting!