QUILTsocial | Issue 19

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19

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EAT, SLEEP, QUILT, REPEAT!

excellent alternatives to ironing boards ruler work made easy sewing on-point quilt blocks

4

steps to clean your

iron

Making the Diamond Hexagon cushion

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I can always appreciate when I get a helping hand from notions and sewing tools. Just like the tools in the kitchen, in some cases I could do without, but it's always easier or faster to use useful gadgets. This issue is full of suggestions on notions that make our tasks easier in the sewing and quilting process, starting with the iron, and ironing board. It's an essential tool for piecing a quilt together. See Christine Baker's feature on everything you wanted to know about ironing versus pressing, indispensable pressing tools, and her DIY ideas for ironing boards.

We also look at how to use features on the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 and the PFAFF performance icon that make piecing and quilting so easy and precise that encourage you to keep up your quilting experience.

Quilting, after all, is how we express ourselves, how we spend quiet time with our creative thoughts, and how we feel when we offer a quilt we made to someone we cherish.

And if sewing and quilting notions on our cutting table weren't enough, we also have quilting rulers to help us achieve that quilted look we admire so much! Using the INSPIRA Ruler Foot Template Set on the PFAFF performance icon makes this happen.

The template set includes four templates, three of which are beautiful templates designed to enhance your quilts for quilting

Backdrop photo by Annie Spratt

Editor's Letter

feature designs, for blocks, border, and backgrounds. These rulers give you the confidence to achieve intricate quilting designs. See how Sarah Vanderburgh’s table runner turned out using these templates and her tips for using them.

Among other features in this awesome issue, there's the bold and attractive Diamond Hexagon Cushion top designed

by Claire Haillot. It looks difficult to make, but the step-by-step process and the Sew Easy 60° Triangle Ruler make it indeed ‘so easy’ to accomplish - get your favorite bold fabrics off the shelf and onto your cutting board and experience the magic!

I hope you enjoy exploring new-to-you notions and techniques in this issue, for happiness is easily achieved when quilting goals are met! And if nothing else, we can enjoy the happy process on our way to meeting them.

Cheerfully,

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PUBLISHER, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ART DIRECTOR Carla A. Canonico carla@QUILTsocial.com PUBLISHER, ADVERTISING SALES John De Fusco john@QUILTsocial.com PHOTOGRAPHERS Carla A. Canonico, John De Fusco BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS Elaine Theriault crazyquilteronabike.com Claire Haillot quiltingwithclaire.com Sarah Vandeburgh sewjoycreations.com Jean Boyd patternsbyjeanboyd.com Pam Voth noroomforphonies.com GRAPHIC & WEB DESIGN Carla A. Canonico carla@QUILTsocial.com GRAPHIC ASSISTANT and SOCIAL MEDIA Sondra Armas WEB and IT SUPPORT Alejandro Araujo

* projects * techniques * product reviews

WEBSITE / BLOG : https://QUILTsocial.com Like us on Facebook : QUILTsocial Follow us on Pinterest : quiltsocial Follow us on Instagram : quiltsocial Follow us on Twitter : @QUILTsocial WHERE TO GET YOUR COPY QUILTsocial is a quarterly eMagazine published by A Needle Pulling Thread. It is available free for personal use online at https://QUILTsocial.com.

A limited number of printed copies of QUILTsocial are available for purchase at select quilt shops and specialty stores. Ask for it at your local shop. QUILTsocial is not available by subscription.

QUILT SHOPS If you are interested in carrying QUILTsocial in your store, please email john@QUILTsocial.com.

EDITORIAL Designers and other contributors who would like to be considered for future issues please email carla@QUILTsocial.com with a brief description of your work and your proposed project for the magazine. ©2021 QUILTsocial. All rights reserved. Issue 19 ISSN 2368-5913.

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Elaine’s Quilting Tech Tips!

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All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are for private, non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted material owned by their respective creators or owners.

Advertiser Index 60 A Needle Pulling Thread Magazine 35 Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 59 Brother Luminaire 2 58 Business Directory 23 Gütermann Creativ 02 Husqvarna Viking 12 Mary Ellen Products Best Press 13 Melissa Marginet 55 Northcott Fabrics 45 PFAFF 04 QUILTsocial.com 17 #TheSewGoesOn

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issue 19

CONTENTS 06

2 excellent alternatives to ironing boards

10

Ironing vs Pressing do YOU know the difference?

14

9 steps to quick and easy fusible applique, the right way

18

4 steps to clean your iron the absolute easiest way

20

9 easy steps to sew a handy ironing board caddy!

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Introducing raw edge applique with the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 machine

27

Easy quilting using the MuVit Open-Toe Dual-Feed Foot

28

Applique houses – basted by machine but stitched by hand

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Machine basting and topstitching a spring table runner

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Springtime applique flowers with the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 machine

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Spring has sprung all over this quilted table runner!

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How the PFAFF performance icon helps sewing on-point quilt blocks

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Perfect stitch-in-the-ditch quilting with the PFAFF performance icon

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Beautiful ruler work made easy

43

Echo quilting makes the Spring Table Runner complete

46

In quilting, diamonds made easy with the Sew Easy 60° Triangle Ruler!

49

1 ruler, 1 rotary cutter for making half diamond units

50

4 easy steps to piecing the colorful Diamond Hexagon cushion top

52

How to quilt Diamond Hexagon cushion top using your walking foot

54

How to make a custom filler for the oversized Diamond Hexagon cushion

56

My Quilting Life: Japanese Quilt Blocks for a Zen Cushion

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2 excellent alternatives to ironing boards

Christine Baker

UNIQUE home Iron Sole-Plate Cleaner, UNIQUE sewing Self-Gripping Fastener Strip, Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron, Clover Hot Hemmer, Clover Hold It Precision Stiletto, UNIQUE Wool Pressing Mat, Misting Spray Bottle, Gütermann Thread

Quilters use irons all the time. But are we taking full advantage of all the great accessories that can make ironing and pressing more efficient and enjoyable??

Let’s find out!

A 14'' x 14'' Wool Pressing Mat from UNIQUE.

The Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron

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Let's talk about ironing surfaces. I think every quilter has a standard ironing board to do their pressing, but sometimes we need something smaller and more portable or something bigger to work on larger projects. Wool pressing mats have only been a ‘thing’ for a couple of years, but they have taken the quilting world by storm. Not only are they lightweight and portable, a 100% felted wool ironing mat retains heat, so when you iron your fabric it’s like ironing from both sides at the same time!

The UNIQUE Wool Pressing Mat is made of premium quality tightly felted New Zealand wool and absorbs moisture from heat, allowing for minimal to no required steaming. The ½” thickness keeps fabric stable and minimizes stretching and shifting, so there’s no distortion when pressing. Knitted, crocheted or hooked projects can also be pinned to the mat for blocking.

The pressing mat can be used with a dry iron on any surface, so if you want a small pressing station beside your sewing machine, you can place it on top of a TV tray, and it would be at your side and super handy. If you need to use steam, be sure to place the mat on a protected surface, since moisture does go through the mat and can harm the surface below.

I’m trying out my new Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron. To say this iron is cute is a total understatement!! I have (and love) an Oliso Pro TG1600 Smart Iron which I use all the time, but I’ve never had a mini iron before now. This little cutie has the power of a full-sized iron in a compact and lightweight design. When we can finally go on quilt retreats again, I can use it and my wool pressing mat right next to my sewing machine, and the mini iron won’t take up any space in my retreat bag, either!

Unlike its big sister, The Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron doesn’t have the patented Scorchguards which cause the iron to lift when you’ve stopped ironing to prevent burns, scorching and tipping, but it does come with a silicone Solemate which lets the hot soleplate safely rest during ironing and protects fabrics. When you go to store the mini iron, this Solemate fits like a glove on the sole of the iron to protect the surface.

Making a large pressing board

Step 2 – Staple your first layer

Sometimes, when you’re doing fusible applique or sewing large blocks, you want a large, flat surface for pressing.

Years ago, I made a pressing board and I use it all the time for large fusible applique projects. It’s become quite ratty, so I want to make a new one, and I have this super cute fabric I want to use.

Lay your Therm Fleece on the table or floor with the shiny side down. Center your wooden board on top of the fleece.

Wrap the fleece around to the back of the board and using a staple gun, staple the edge of the fleece to the board.

This process will work for any sized board, so if you’re really ambitious you could make a large rectangular board that fits right on top of your ironing board, or you may have an old wooden TV tray you can recover to make a portable pressing board. Whatever size you make it, the process is the same.

UNIQUE Quilting Therm Fleece

The best way to make the fleece even and smooth is to first staple the middle of one side and then pull the fleece smooth and staple the middle of the opposite side. Repeat this process on the remaining two sides.

The first thing we need is a piece of wood. As long as it’s at least ½” thick, you should be fine. I’m using a piece of melamine that we’ve had in the garage for a while – a leftover from our last kitchen reno.

Next, we need some fabric (wait until you see mine!) and some heat-resistant fleece. I’ve got a package of UNIQUE Quilting Therm Fleece, so I’m ready to go!

Fairfield Toasty Cotton Quilt Batting

Therm Fleece is a heat-resistant material that can be used for both hot and cold insulation and it provides protection from hot surfaces up to 390°F (200°C).

You can use it for potholders, oven mitts, tea cozies, wine caddies, lunch boxes, slippers, window coverings, table pads, ironing board covers, casserole holders, outerwear, coolers, and more! Just remember that Therm Fleece is designed as a liner, so it shouldn’t make direct contact with your iron. The package says you should have at least one layer of cotton batting between it and the outside fabric cover, so I’ll use a piece of Fairfield Toasty Cotton™ Natural Cotton Quilt Batting too.

Staple the middle of each side first.

Step 3 Remove extra bulk in the corners Before you finish stapling the rest of the Therm Fleece to the board, use a pair of sharp scissors to cut away a square from each corner of the fleece. This will remove some of the excess bulk in the corners and will make the other layers easier to secure.

Step 1 Measure and cut the three layers Measure your piece of wood and cut your Therm Fleece 4“ wider and longer than your board. Cut your cotton batting 5“ wider and longer than the board and cut your cotton (top) fabric about 7“ wider and longer than the board.

Use a staple gun to staple the edge of fleece to the board.

Photos by Christine Baker

Cut away each corner

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Continue stapling around the edge of the Therm Fleece. Once you have put in a staple every 4“ or so, add the next layer.

Here is my board with the layer of Therm Fleece thoroughly secured to the back of the board: Step 4 – Add the cotton batting layer Repeat the above steps using the Fairfield Toasty Cotton Quilt Batting. Don’t forget to cut away the corners of the batting to reduce bulk.

The coating on my wooden board is very hard, so I had a little trouble getting my staples to go all of the way in. If you have the same problem, just use a hammer and give them a few taps.

The Therm Fleece covered wooden board

Fold under the raw edge of the cotton fabric before stapling.

Step 5 Add the top cotton fabric layer Now, add the top layer of cotton quilting fabric. This is where you can personalize your pressing board! Use fabric to match your quilting studio or make it totally different. Since nothing in my quilting studio matches, I decided to use this super cute laundry-themed fabric!

Cut away each corner of cotton batting.

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Lay your fabric down on the table or floor, right side down, and center your pressing board on top with batting side down. Wrap the fabric around to the back of the board, folding under the raw edge before you staple it. This will give the fabric a nice, finished edge and will hide the layers of Therm Fleece and batting. Staple the middle of each side first, as before.

Fold the corners of the fabric to the back and then wrap the two adjacent edges around the corner.

Step 6 – Fold and tuck the corners This time, instead of cutting away the excess in the corners, fold over the corner of the cotton fabric first, and then fold up the two edges beside the corner. Tuck under the raw edge and staple. This gives a nice finish to the corners and will hide where we cut away the layers of fleece.

Step 7 – Finish stapling around the edge Using the staple gun, go around the entire edge of the board to secure the cotton fabric with staples. I found when I started holding the staple gun as shown in the photo (with the body of it resting on the board instead of in the air) the staples went in a lot better!

Extra staples in the corners make the cotton fabric layer more secure.

Secure the entire edge with staples.

I put a staple into the cotton fabric about every 2“. I also decided to put in a couple extra staples along the fold in each corner to further secure the fabric.

Here’s my new pressing board. Now, isn’t that fabric perfect?

My Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron looks so tiny on the pressing board! My new board is about 24“ x 30“ and is perfect for pressing some of my bigger projects with my Oliso Pro TG1600 Smart Iron.

But it weighs a ton, so it won’t ever be traveling to workshops or retreats with me! I’ll stick with my new UNIQUE Wool Pressing Mat for that!

I hope you feel inspired to make your own pressing board with UNIQUE Quilting Therm Fleece and Fairfield Toasty Cotton Natural Cotton Quilt Batting, but if you aren’t into using staples guns, you should really think about treating yourself to a new wool pressing mat. The UNIQUE Wool Pressing Mat comes in two different sizes, so I’m sure you’ll find one that works with your sewing space.

My finished DIY pressing board

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Ironing vs Pressing do YOU know the difference?

Ironing and pressing are often used interchangeably, but they’re actually two separate techniques. Ironing is the back and forth sliding motion most of us are familiar with and do regularly at home when getting wrinkles out of clothes.

Pressing is the placing of the iron on the fabric, holding it there, and then removing it. Pressing is the technique that should be used when quilting, as it prevents the stretching and distorting of quilt blocks.

Making pressing and ironing easier

Sometimes you need a little help to get creases and wrinkles out of fabric. When we’re rotary cutting, it’s best to have wrinkle-free fabric, so your cuts are the most accurate. Sometimes it’s nearly impossible to get those wrinkles and creases out with just your iron and some steam, so a product like Mary Ellen’s Best Press becomes a quilter’s best friend! Best Press makes ironing and pressing easier, and makes fabrics look like new again.

Plus, there’s no flaking, clogging, or white residue left on dark fabrics! A special stain shield protects fabrics, and the product helps resist and relax stubborn wrinkles. And Best Press comes in a variety of scents from lavender to citrus grove as well as scent-free!

The Best Press Spray and Misting bottle is a high-quality step up from the average spray bottle! This spray bottle features a unique bladder design that allows for easier refilling and gives an extra-long, consistent, non-drip spray of extra fine mist. You get better coverage on your fabric and use less of the liquid. Nonpressurized and propellant-free, this refillable spray bottle is ideal for applying Best Press liquid starch, other ironing aids, or for almost any application around the home – from hair products, pet or car care, and gardening.

Here’s more of the fabric that I used to cover my DIY pressing board. In a couple of days I’ll use it to make an ironing board caddy, but in this feature, I’ll use it to demonstrate how well the Mary Ellen’s Best Press works. As you can see, there are a couple of large creases across the middle of the fabric.

Prior to pressing, I used the Spray and Mist bottle to apply a small amount of Best Press along the creases in the fabric.

Spray Best Press along the crease in the fabric.

Now I’ll use my Oliso Pro TG1600 Smart Iron to press the fabric until it is dry.

Creases on the fabric Press until the fabric is dry

Mary Ellen’s Best Press and Spray and Misting bottle

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Once the fabric is dry, the creases are gone! I’ll set this fabric aside for now, and I’ll use it for my ironing board caddy project later.

Prepping a background for fusible applique Next we’ll work on a little spring-themed fusible applique project, we’ll prepare the simple background. For this project we need just a few fabrics:

• Black & white background fabric – 7” x 13”

• Blue border – two pieces 1½” x 13”

each, and two-pieces 1½” x 9” each

Setting your seam

• Scraps of fabric for applique pieces Step 1 Sew the two longer pieces of blue fabric to the two longer sides of the black and white background. Set the seams and then press the seams towards the blue borders. I’m using my handy Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron for this.

Step 2 Perfectly pressed fabric!

The Benefits of Pressing Pressing your projects the correct way makes a world of difference in your quilting!

Your finished item will look more professional in the end because you used pressing in the process.

Pressing helps you to match up your seams better which will help you to have nicer, more accurate blocks.

Pressing blends the stitches into the fabric, flattening and smoothing any puckers that may have occurred during sewing.

Tips for Pressing During Quilting

• Lift and press your iron into the

fabric with a gentle motion, applying pressure only for particularly stubborn seams.

• Never press over pins. You could

create dents in your fabric, possibly scratch your iron, or melt the pinhead onto the iron or the fabric.

Sew the remaining two blue borders to shorter sides of the black and white background fabric, and press seams towards the borders.

Although pressing is defined as the process of lifting and pressing the iron repeatedly onto the fabric, I often use the side of my iron to press my seams using the motion shown in the picture below. I find that this process helps to make a crisply pressed seam but prevents the fabric from being stretched or distorted. Like shown, I start on the fabric closest to me and then move the iron at a 90° angle to the seam using the side of the iron instead of the tip.

As you can see, pressing the right way makes your sewn seam more accurate and makes it look more professional.

Using accessories like Mary Ellen’s Best Press and the Spray and Misting bottle makes pressing and ironing with my Oliso ProTM TG1600 Smart Iron so much easier! Now that my background has the small blue border on it.

Pressing the seam with the side of the iron

• Keep your iron and ironing board

handy so you won’t be tempted to skip the pressing step as you sew.

Press every seam to make them look as professional as possible.

• Set your freshly sewn seam flat before you press the seam allowances to one side or open. This will allow your stitches to relax and really allows the finished seam to be pressed flat.

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9 steps to quick and easy fusible applique, the right way We’re working on a small spring-themed fusible applique project. It’s a Spring Thing is a pattern I designed in 2012, along with three other seasonal wall hangings. Although all four of these wall hangings were designed with batik fabrics, I always love seeing my patterns done in different fabric selections.

We’ll use just the birdhouse and bird appliques from this pattern to make a small spring wall hanging. We already made the background for our applique project. Below is a PDF with the applique designs.

Fusible applique is one of my favorite quilting techniques, and between my partner, Nellie Holmes and I have many, many fusible applique patterns. It’s an easy and forgiving technique and although I always hand blanketstitch my projects, you could easily do all of the applique stitching on your sewing machine.

It’s a Spring Thing pattern by Christine Baker, Fairfield Road Designs

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I’m using HeatnBond Lite Iron-On Adhesive Sheets to fuse the applique shapes to the background.

HeatnBond Lite is specially formulated for securing light to medium weight fabric pieces onto other fabric surfaces so they may be machine or hand sewn. It’s ideal for attaching fabric appliques, and because it’s activated at a low temperature, it’s the ideal adhesive for most fabrics. I’ll also be using a pair of OLFA 5'' Stainless Steel Serrated Edge Scissors, the Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron and the Heirloom nonstick Teflon Applique Mat to make the process so much easier.

Tracing the applique shapes on to the paper side of the HeatnBond Lite

Iron HeatnBond shapes to the back of your applique fabrics.

Cut along the drawn lines

Step 1 – Trace the applique shapes The first step in fusible applique is to trace your applique shapes to the paper side of the HeatnBond Lite. Trace each shape separately, leaving about ½” between each one. Dotted lines on the pattern shapes show where the top fabric overlaps a fabric beneath it, so trace each of those shapes individually, following the dotted line for the bottom shape.

Cut along the drawn lines

Step 2 – Cut apart the shapes Next, use a pair of scissors to cut each of the applique shapes, about ¼” away from the drawn line.

Step 3 – Iron to fabrics Iron each of the applique shapes to the back of your chosen fabrics – I’m using Northcott Colorworks Solids. To save space on the fabric you can overlap your HeatnBond like I did below, as long as you don’t overlap the drawn lines.

HeatnBond Lite Iron-On Adhesive Sheets

Step 4 – Cut along drawn lines The Heirloom Non-Stick Teflon Applique Mat

Use a pair of sharp scissors like these OLFA 5'' Stainless Steel Serrated Edge Scissors to cut each of the shapes along the drawn lines.

Step 5 – Peel off the paper backing Peel the paper backing off of the applique shapes. As you can see, the back of the fabric is now shiny. That’s the adhesive fused to the fabric.

Now I’ll show you the magic of the Heirloom Non-Stick Teflon Applique Mat. This mat can be used for a variety of crafts involving adhesives since it provides a multi-purpose, non-stick surface were any substance from glue to paint wipes away easily.

Arrange the fabric shapes on the Teflon mat.

Spring wall hanging applique designs, Click to download PDF

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Press the applique shapes.

The fused bird and birdhouse shapes

Step 6 – Arrange applique shapes on the Teflon mat Arrange the applique shapes into groups on the Heirloom Non-Stick Teflon Applique Mat. All the pieces of the birdhouse can be arranged as they would look on the finished quilt. Place the body of the birdhouse down first and then arrange the roof, the hole, the base and the pole, tucking under fabrics as shown by the dotted lines on the pattern pieces.

Step 7 – Press

Press the shapes to fuse them in place.

Follow package instructions, and press the applique shapes so the adhesive on the backs of the fabrics sticks the different shapes together. They will temporarily stick to the Teflon applique mat but can easily be peeled off once they are cool.

It’s important at this stage to press (move side to side), not iron, because you don’t want to shift any of the pieces or catch their sides on the edge of the iron. Just press in place, lift and move to another spot and press again.

Step 8 – Peel the shapes off the Teflon sheet Once cooled, the shapes can easily be peeled off of the Teflon applique mat.

As you can see, the entire shapes of the birdhouse and bird are now complete and can be moved around easily.

Step 9 – Arrange and press in place

Place the shapes on the background fabric.

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Now you can easily place applique shapes on your background fabric. Use the background made earlier and place the birdhouse and bird on the fabric.

Move them around until they look good to you. Now that we’ve grouped the shapes together using the Teflon applique mat, it’s so easy to arrange and

rearrange things on the background.

Imagine if you had a complex applique design with lots of small sections – this applique mat would make a world of difference!

Now I’ll use my Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron to fuse the shapes to the background fabric. Same as before, press, don’t iron!

Now all that’s left to do is stitch the pieces to the background! You can do this by hand or machine, or you can simply layer the top with batting and backing and quilt along all the raw edges to secure and quilt at the same time.

The OLFA 5'' Stainless Steel Serrated Edge Scissors and the Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron make light work of fusible applique projects. I love fusible applique and I’ve designed lots of patterns using this technique. HeatnBond Lite IronOn Adhesive Sheets and the Heirloom Non-Stick Teflon Applique Mat are great products to use for this quilting method, but HeatnBond also makes other fusible products for crafting. If you’re unsure of which one to pick for your project, check out this handy HeatnBond Flowchart that walks you through the selection. One thing about fusible applique though is that sometimes, despite being super careful, I get adhesive stuck on my iron, so next we’ll talk about how to clean your iron the easy way!

#TheSewGoesOn While we are sew at home, together we keep the spirit of sewing alive.

Be part of a passionate sewing community. Share your sewing and quilting projects on Instagram using #TheSewGoesOn Look for giveaways, supplies and special offers!

Share your love of sewing

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4 steps to clean your iron the absolute easiest way

I do lots of fusible applique and unfortunately, I’ve managed to get quite a bit of adhesive (and other substances) on the soleplate of my Oliso PRO™ TG1600 Smart Iron. So, it seems like a good idea to show you the absolute easiest way to clean your iron!

So, I obviously haven’t cleaned my iron in a while, but that’s only because I wasn’t sure how to do it. Enter the UNIQUE Home Iron Sole-Plate Cleaner found at your local quilt store.

Step 1 – Remove the cap

The dirty soleplate of Christine’s Oliso Pro™ TG1600 Smart Iron.

The first thing to do is to remove the cap on the UNIQUE Home Iron Sole-Plate Cleaner. There’s a plastic ring on the bottom that you pull off and then the cap will slide off to expose the hard, waxlike substance underneath.

Remove the outer cap.

The UNIQUE Home Iron Sole-Plate Cleaner

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Step 2 – Heat up the iron and rub the cleaner on the soleplate The UNIQUE Home Iron Sole-Plate Cleaner package says to set your iron to 60°C – this is probably the lowest setting on your iron. Place the iron in an upright position on a cloth and then cover the sole-plate with a thin layer of cleaner. The wax-like substance melts as it touches the hot soleplate.

Cover the entire area with the milkywhite cleaner.

Step 3 – Rub the sole-plate Now use an old towel or some other textured cloth to rub the sole-plate to remove all traces of dirt. Keep rubbing until all the cleaner has been removed.

Since my iron was so heavily soiled, I reapplied the cleaner and rubbed it clean a few times.

Cover the sole-plate with a thin layer of the cleaner.

Cover the entire sole-plate.

Rub with a textured cloth.

After the cleaner

Step 4 – Blast some steam If you’re cleaning a steam iron, increase the temperature to the cotton setting and give a couple blasts of steam to free the holes of any cleaner residue.

And here’s my clean iron! As you can see, not all the stains were removed but I’m very pleased with how the iron turned out. The stains on my iron have been there for a while now and I wasn’t expecting all of them to be go away, so I’m happy with how much of the adhesive and dirt was removed!

I’m so happy with how my iron turned out after using the UNIQUE Home Iron Sole-Plate Cleaner! And now that I know how easy it is to clean an iron I’ll do it more often to prevent any more permanent damage to the sole-plate.

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9 easy steps to sew a handy ironing board caddy!

we’re making a handy ironing board caddy to store ironing accessories, using the Heirloom Teflon Non-Stick Applique Mat and a UNIQUE sewing Self-Gripping Fastener Strip. This is a super easy project and you can make it to match other items in your quilting studio! I’ll use the same fabric as I used to cover the DIY pressing board I showed you at the beginning of this feature – so I’ll have at least two things in my quilting studio that match – LOL! For this project, you’ll need about half a yard [0.5m] of fabric for the caddy and pockets and a fat quarter of coordinating fabric for the pincushion and binding. You’ll also need a small piece of batting, and something to fill the pincushion. I used crushed walnut shells, but something like rice would work just as well.

You want this stuffing to be heavy so it weighs down the caddy and prevents it from sliding off of the ironing board.

Project requirements For this project you need the following:

• • • •

½ yard [0.5m] main fabric

Trim your quilt sandwich to 8” x 30”.

Step 3 – Make your binding

Sew the 2½” x 20” strips of accent fabric end to end with a mitered seam. Trim the excess fabric from the seam allowance, iron the seams open and fold the long strip in half with wrong sides together and press. If you need more information on making binding there are many great tutorials on QUILTsocial, Including Do you know how to bind a quilt?.

Step 4 – Make your pocket(s) Take the 8” x 10” rectangle and fold it in half to make a 8” x 5” rectangle. Sew one 8“ piece of binding to the top (folded) edge.

Fold over and topstitch just along the seam. Repeat to make a second pocket if desired.

Lay the pocket on one end of the quilted base, so the raw edges of the pocket line up with the raw edges of the base. Pin in place. If you’ve made a second pocket, line it up on the other end of the base.

fat quarter of accent fabric for pincushion and binding 12” x 34” batting pincushion fill, such as crushed walnuts or rice

Step 1 – Cut your fabric From your main fabric cut:

• 1 rectangle 9“ x 31“ • 1 rectangle 12“ x 34“ (for backing) • 1 rectangle 8“ x 10“ (for pocket – cut two if you’d like a pocket on both ends of the caddy)

From your accent fabric cut:

• 2 rectangles 8½” x 9½” • 4 strips 2½” x 20“ (for binding) Step 2 – Make your quilted base Place your 12” x 34” backing fabric right side down on a hard surface. Place batting on top and center your 9” x 31” rectangle on top, right side up. Use either Odif 505 Temporary Quilt Basting Adhesive Fabric Spray or Klassé Curved Safety Pins to baste the three layers together. Use either free-motion quilting or your walking foot to machine-quilt from one end to the other. Check out an earlier article on 2 great products to help organize your sewing machine area to see how I used this same process when making my quilted sewing machine mat.

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Line up the raw edges of the pocket with the raw edges of the caddy base.

Step 5 – Sew on the binding Sew the binding to the outside edge of the base, securing the pocket(s) in place. You can either sew the binding to the front, fold it around to the back and hand sew in place, or you can sew the binding to the back, fold around to the front and machine stitch in place.

Step 6 – Make the pincushion inner and outer layers

Sew binding to outside edge.

First, fold the two 8½” x 9½” rectangles in half to make two 4½” x 9½” rectangles.

On the first rectangle, sew two raw edges using ¼” seam (bottom rectangle in photo). On the second rectangle, sew the three raw sides using a ½” seam, leaving 2⁄3 of one end open for filling (top rectangle in photo).

The two layers of the pincushion.

Step 7 – Fill the pincushion Using your chosen filling material, fill the inner layer of the pincushion (top rectangle in the picture) so it’s about 9/10 full. You don’t need to turn this layer right side out, just fill as shown and stitch the end closed.

Sew the seams as shown.

Turn the other rectangle right side out. This will be the outer layer of the pincushion. Now we have to get the filled inner part of the pincushion inside of the outer layer. To make this easier, roll up your Heirloom Teflon Non-Stick Applique Mat to make a funnel shape.

Insert the smaller end into the outside layer of the pincushion. Slip the filled inner bag inside of the applique mat and it’ll slide right into the outer section.

Hand sew the open end.

Here’s what the two layers of the pincushion should now look like.

Step 8 – Sew the pincushion closed Fold in the raw edges of the opening and, using a slip stitch, hand sew the opening closed.

Step 9 – Attach the pincushion to the caddy The next step is the easiest one since we’ll be using adhesive-backed UNIQUE sewing Self-Gripping Fastener Strips to secure the pincushion to the caddy!

Use the Teflon applique mat to slide the filled pincushion bag into the outer fabric bag.

Open the package of UNIQUE sewing Self-Gripping Fastener Strips and cut a 7“ long section of each of the hook tape and the loop tape.

UNIQUE sewing Self-Gripping Fastener Strip

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Peel off the backing.

Finger press firmly in place.

Stick loop tape to the ironing board caddy base.

Peel the adhesive backing off the hook tape.

Center the hook tape on one side of the pincushion and finger press firmly in place.

Lay the caddy on top of your ironing board with the ends hanging over the sides to determine the desired position for the pincushion. Peel the backing off the loop section of the UNIQUE sewing Self-Gripping Fastener Strip and finger press firmly in place on the caddy base.

The completed ironing board caddy.

Wait 24 hours before using the UNIQUE sewing Self-Gripping Fastener Strip to secure the pincushion to the caddy. Then, position your pincushion in place and you’re ready to use your new caddy!

As you can see, my scissors, Clover Hot Hemmer and Clover Hold It Precision Stiletto all fit nicely in the pocket on the front of the caddy. I positioned my pincushion so it’s at the back edge of the ironing board – that way there’s lots of room for my Oliso PRO TG1600 Smart Iron or my Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron to sit on top of the caddy. Maybe now that I have all these tools in one place, there’ll be room to actually iron on my ironing board!

I use my Oliso PRO TG1600 Smart Iron and my Oliso M2Pro Mini Project Iron a lot, and rely on it to help make beautiful projects, so having a handy ironing board caddy – made using UNIQUE sewing Self-Gripping Fastener Strip and the Heirloom Teflon NonStick Applique Mat – will help me be even more productive. And now that I’ve shared some of these great irons and accessories with you, I hope you’ll find ironing and pressing more enjoyable and productive too. Have fun making your own DIY pressing board and ironing board caddy, and make sure you finish up your birdhouse wall hanging in time to display this spring!

Hot Hemmer and Hold It Precision Stiletto from Clover

Christine Baker

christinebaker-fairfieldroaddesigns.blogspot.com

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See you in a couple of months for more fun on QUILTsocial.

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Introducing raw edge applique with the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 machine Jean Boyd

I made several of these hand-stitched blocks, using up lots of scraps along the way, and finally made this wall quilt.

I also made this little, hand-stitched house quilt.

I soon realized I could use this same piecing technique on my Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 machine and my never-ending supply of scraps to create some new projects. I had lots of strips, squares and half-square triangles leftover from my African Safari quilt. These would be perfect to make some little house quilts!

I gathered up my squares and halfsquare triangles, along with some pieced strips leftover from another project.

Going Round in Circles raw edge applique quilt

A closeup of raw edge applique on Going Round in Circles

African Safari quilt by Jean Boyd

Photos by Jean Boyd

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Hand-stitched raw edge applique – 7'' x 12''

Leftover strips of pieced squares

Sew strips of pieced squares together.

Lightly spray fabric with Mary Ellen’s Best Press.

Here are the steps I followed to make this little quilt:

7. Arrange the house shapes on the pieced background.

1. Give the pieces a quick spritz with Mary Ellen’s Best Press and then iron them. This product gives added body to the fabric and makes it so much easier to handle for this technique.

8. Pin or baste the layers together.

2. Sew strips of pieced squares together to make the background for the house.

3. This was a good opportunity to use the ¼” Piecing Foot with guide on my Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 so my seam would stay straight. There’s also a ¼” Foot with no guide if you prefer.

4. Using a removable fabric marker, draw the outer finished edge of the block. Mine is 8“.

5. Trim extra background fabric if necessary, but make sure to leave 1“ extra along each side.

6. Layer backing, batting and pieced background.

The Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 machine will do a great job of quilting this piece, because of the MuVit digital dual feed walking foot. There are five different presser feet for the dual feed foot. I used the open toe foot for this project so I could see exactly where to stitch. Have a look at this MuVit foot video if you haven’t seen the MuVit foot in action yet.

9. With the MuVit digital dual feed foot is attached, I’m ready to start stitching.

I wasn’t trying to cover the edges of the house fabrics with stitching, so I chose one of my favorite straight stitches – the hand-look quilting stitch (Q-04) on the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 There are many other stitches that would work well too. If you choose a stitch that isn’t compatible with the walking foot, that stitch will be greyed out on the LED screen.

Layers are basted together

MuVit digital dual feed walking foot

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More raw edge applique houses coming up Leave about ¾” – 1” beyond the line marking the outside edge.

10. Once the applique shape was stitched in place, I did some simple, straight-line quilting in the background. I used a regular straight stitch and lengthened it slightly.

11. Square up the little quilt, using an Olfa square ruler with a non-slip finish. Leave about ¾” – 1” beyond the line you drew to mark the edges of the quilt.

12. Using your drawn line as a guide, fold the excess fabric to the back, making a double fold. This is kind of a faux binding!

13. Stitch the faux binding down by hand on the back of the quilt.

Top stitch around the outside edge.

14. For an attractive finish on the front, top stitch all around the edge, about ½” from the finished edge. Again, I used the hand-look quilting stitch (Q-04) on my Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 And here’s my little house quilt all finished!

Stitching the applique pieces

Finished raw edge applique quilt

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Easy quil ting using the MuVit Open-Toe Dual-Feed Foot Now that I have finished two different raw-edge applique house quilts, I decided to make a larger wall quilt and combine hand and machine stitching. I still had lots of squares and half-square triangles, and I’m really trying to use up scraps and leftovers!

Trim the edges to square up the quilt.

Now it’s time for quilting!

Dark brown strips are sewn to top, bottom and sides

• Pin or baste the layers together. I like to baste by machine, using basting stitch 1-08.

I quilted in the ditch using the MuVit digital dual feed foot. This was a good time to use the Stitch-in-the-Ditch foot that comes with the MuVit.

Quilting with the stitch in the ditch foot

I sewed shorter strips of varying widths together to make longer strips.

I sewed dark brown strips to the tops and bottoms of the beige strips and one dark brown strip to each side. This will be the background for my raw-edge applique shapes.

pieced background.

I trimmed the top and bottom edges to square up the quilt. After it was squared up, my background measured 26“ x 28“.

When I started, I didn’t know what size the background would be. I just kept making and adding strips until I arrived at a workable size.

In my stash of beige and brown fabric scraps, I found these strips that would make a perfect background for my next quilt.

Background strips ready to be sewn together

• Layer the backing, batting, and

• If you don’t have a piece of batting

large enough, you can sew smaller pieces together. I have three favorite stitches on my Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 for this process: Q17, Q18 and 2-17. They are either zigzag or serpentine stitches. Just butt the raw edges of batting together and sew with one of these stitches. Make sure to use the SA186 Open-Toe foot so you can see exactly where you’re stitching. This is another way to use up some leftovers!

Trim the edges to square up the quilt.

Then I added some extra parallel quilting lines using the OpenToe foot on the MuVit digital dual feed foot.

I drew some quilting lines but also used the laser vision guide as a stitching guide.

Laser vision guide key If you’re not familiar on the Brother Innov-ís with the laser vision BQ3050 guide on the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050, have a look at this video.

Now the background is all quilted and I’m ready to add my applique shapes.

Use the laser light to guide your stitching

Closeup view of quilted background

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Applique houses – basted by machine but stitched by hand I’m still using up some squares and half-square triangles leftover from two previous quilts. The squares are 2½” – 4½” and the triangles are half that size.

I used a few rectangles as well. I’ll use these pieces as house shapes for this new wall quilt.

Lightly spray fabric with Mary Ellen’s Best Press.

I gave each piece a spritz with Mary Ellen’s Best Press and then pressed them.

The Best Press adds body to the fabric, and this is important because I’ll be using raw edge applique again and the raw edges do tend to fray a bit. This is not a technique I would use for a large quilt or an item that will be washed a lot, as the edges would fray too much.

I placed the houses randomly on the quilted background until I found an arrangement I liked. The shapes can be machine-stitched using any number of straight or decorative stiches on the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 machine.

House shapes are placed on the quilted background.

The basting stitch is easy to see on the bright LED screen.

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I decided to hand-stitch the houses to the machine-stitched background. I find it very relaxing to have some handstitching to do and these really don’t take much time to finish.

Once I had several houses on the background, it was time to baste them in place. I started by pinning the shapes in place, but it wasn’t secure enough for hand stitching. So, I used basting stitch 1-08 on the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050. It can be adjusted to several different lengths and this made the process much easier and faster. Because my pieces were small, I reduced the stitch size to 15mm. I wanted the houses to be a little bit wonky, so I didn’t worry too much about lining up edges. I started basting just a few houses in place, knowing I would be adding more houses as I went along. Make sure to use the MuVit OpenToe Dual-Feed foot on the Brother Innovís BQ3050 for perfect basting!

Basting the house shapes with stitch 1–08

I decided to do a simple running stitch by hand around the edges of the shapes to applique them in place. After auditioning a few thread choices, I chose a dark brown variegated thread in a slightly heavier weight than what would be used for machine stitching.

When using this method of applique, you can trim up the outside edges and sew on your binding at any time. You can sew it on before you start stitching the houses, or even part-way through.

Binding and finishing For projects like those I’ve shown you this week, the background was completely quilted before the applique was done, so I like to sew on my binding before the applique is started. This not only helps to stabilize the outside edges, but also helps you to see exactly where to place the applique shapes.

I cut my binding 3” wide and sew it on with a ½” seam to give me a ½” finished size binding. There is a tutorial on my binding method on a previous QUILTsocial post, Change up the way you make your quilt binding.

When joining binding strips together, I use the Sew Straight Laser Vision Guide on my Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 to make sure I get an accurate seam. Because the ends of the binding are cut on an angle (45° or 60°), it’s easy to get the seam a little off-center. By placing the laser guide on the intersections of the strips, you get a perfect seam every time.

Hanging Sleeve

Thread choices for hand stitching

If you’re adding a hanging sleeve to the back of your quilt, it should be sewn on before the final hand-stitching of the binding. Here’s how to make it:

• From backing fabric, cut 1 strip 6” wide and 1” – 2” shorter than the width of the wall hanging.

• Sew a narrow, double-fold hem on the 2 shorter ends of the hanging sleeve strip.

• Fold the strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press.

• Using the MuVit Digital Dual Feed Foot (included with the BQ3050) machine-baste the hanging sleeve in place on the back of the quilt, with the raw edges even across the top.

• When the binding is hand-stitched in place, all the raw edges will be covered.

Use the laser guide to help align edges of binding.

• Stitch the folded edge of the sleeve in place by hand.

• When all the houses are stitched in place, whether by

machine or hand, carefully trim any frayed edges. Once the quilt is finished and hanging on the wall, the edges won’t fray anymore.

I really like the almost primitive look of this style of applique, and the added texture it gives to the quilt. I hope you’ll give it a try too.

Edges of the binding are perfectly aligned

Press hanging sleeve, wrong sides together.

Stitch hanging sleeve to back of quilt.

Finished house quilt

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Machine basting and topstitching a spring table runner I’ll be using the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 to do both piecing and applique to create a table runner.

It was so exciting to receive this fabric from the Banyan Batiks Sugar Crystals collection. This colorway is called Cotton Candy. It just made me think of Spring, and I know we’re all ready for that right now! It also comes in another colorway called Sea Sprinkles.

Sugar Crystals collection by Banyan Batiks

I’ll show you how to make a quick table runner using this fabric and more raw edge applique techniques. Because I’m using batik fabrics, the edges will not fray as much as with regular cotton fabrics.

Baste batting and backing together with the 1–08 basting stitch.

Here’s what you’ll need to get started making this 16” x 36” table runner:

• 4 fat quarters for the table runner • 2 fat quarters for the binding and applique shapes

• 18” x 38” piece of lightweight batting or fleece

• 18” x 38” piece of fabric for the MuVit Digital Dual Feed Foot

Overlap wedge–shaped strips on the basted batting/backing

backing

Prepare the backing and batting 1. Place the batting or fleece on the wrong side of the backing fabric.

2. Put the MuVit Digital Dual Feed Foot on the machine. I prefer the open-toe foot with the system, but you have four other feet to choose from, so find the one you like best.

3. Baste the layers together using basting stitch 1-08 on the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 Make sure the two layers stay flat. You can press the layers together after the basting is finished so you’ll have a smooth surface for the next step when you add the fabric strips.

The basting stitch is easy to see on the bright LED screen.

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Topstitch strips on the basted batting/backing.

Cut the fabric 1. From each of the 4 fat quarters, cut 2 or 3 wedge-shaped pieces that are 4” – 5” at the widest point. The angles at which you cut each piece don’t need to be the same for each strip.

2. Arrange the strips as desired, right sides up, on the basted batting/backing piece, alternating the wide and narrow edges. Overlap each strip by ¼” – ½”. Don’t worry if the outside edges don’t line up exactly. They’ll be trimmed later.

3. Topstitch the strips, one at a time, on top of the batting. The raw edges will be exposed.

4. Add additional quilting lines on the strips as desired. I used a straight stitch, but you could use decorative stitching if you like. There are lots to choose from when you’re using the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050!

5. Square up the outside edges.

Sew additional quilting lines using the open toe foot.

6. Cut the binding from the two darker fabrics in the Banyan Batiks Sugar Crystals I alternated the fabrics for the binding strips to give a bit of a scrappy look.

7. Sew on the binding.

Next, I’ll show you how to finish the table runner using several different methods of raw edge applique that can all be done on the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 sewing and quilting machine!

Square up outside edges.

Sew on the binding.

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Springtime applique flowers with the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 machine Ok let's see how to use the Brother ScanNCut SDX225 electronic cutting machine to cut the applique shapes and the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 to machine applique the shapes.

Flower Appliques Using my Brother ScanNCut SDX225 electronic cutting machine and pieces of Banyan Batiks Sugar Crystals fabric leftover from the binding fabric, I cut six simple flower shapes in three different sizes. I used the Brother Fabric Mat and the Brother Thin Fabric Auto Blade to make sure I got accurate cuts of these flowers.

I arranged the flowers on the quilted background and basted them in place using my favorite basting stitch on the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 – stitch 1-08.

Once I basted the flowers, it was time for some stitching. I wanted to try a few different methods of machine applique for the flower shapes, so my table runner is now a bit of an applique sampler! The first four stitches were done using the MuVit Digital Dual Feed Foot. There are 30 stitches in the Q section, many of which can be used for applique. You can also use any of the straight stitches in the utility stitch menu.

Finished background for applique flowers

For my table runner, I used:

• • • •

blanket stitch Q14 quilting applique stitch Q12 straight stitch hand stitching with a long-running stitch and embroidery floss

• free-motion stitching Three free motion feet come with the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050: foot C, foot O and foot E. Place fabric on the fabric mat and load into the ScanNCut SDX225.

Baste the flowers in place using stitch 1–08.

Applique flowers are perfectly cut on the ScanNCut SDX225.

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Three free motion feet come with the Innov-ís BQ3050.

When in free motion mode on the Brother Innov-ís BQ3050, the internal sensor detects the thickness of the fabric, and the free motion foot is raised to the height specified in the machine settings screen. Settings can be changed on the settings screen.

For example, you would increase the setting when sewing very soft fabrics.

When using the Free Motion Quilting Foot C, you must use the included straight stitch needle plate. Free motion stitching requires some practice, but the finished results are well worth the effort. It’s a good idea to do some practice stitching on scrap fabrics before stitching on the quilt.

I used the Open Toe Foot O to stitch around two of the flowers.

Below are some close-up views of the raw edge applique stitches I’ve really enjoyed using my Brother Innov-ís BQ3050 machine, with all its wonderful features, to make these raw edge applique pieces this week. I hope you’ll give this technique a try too!

Free motion key on the Innov-ís BQ3050

Hopefully, we’ll all be able to get together soon with family and friends and enjoy a nice cup of tea!

Blanket stitch and free motion stitching on the appliqued flowers

Finished table runner using Banyan Batiks

Hand stitching, quilting applique stitch and straight stitch on the appliqued flowers

Jean Boyd

patternsbyjeanboyd.com

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don't miss these projects & tutorials online!

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Sewing up 3 Too Cool for School pencil cases

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and there's so much more!

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Take your projects from pattern to perfection If it’s your dream to create breathtaking quilts, the Innov-ís BQ3050 is the sewing and quilting machine to make it happen.

BQ3050

Designed for the expert quilter!

Sew Straight™ Laser Vision Guide helps you sew straight lines when quilting, piecing, pin tucking and more.

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5” x 11.25” Workspace comfortably accommodates large quilts and big projects.

Enjoy precision and quality with the Quilter’s Accessory Bundle – included with the purchase of every BQ3050 machine • Dual Feed Open Toe Foot • Dual Feed Stitch-in-the-ditch Foot

• Dual Feed 1/4” Quilting Guide Foot • Dual Feed Quilting Guide

• Dual Feed Couching Foot • 2-spool Thread Stand

Visit an authorized Brother dealer today to find out more! brother.ca/en/BQ3050 Photos are for illustration purposes only. Brother and its logo are trademarks of Brother Industries, Ltd., Japan. All specifications are subject to change without notice. All registered trademarks referenced herein are the property of their respective companies. ©2021 Brother International Corporation (Canada) Ltd. 1, rue Hôtel de Ville, Dollard-des-Ormeaux, Québec, H9B 3H6. 05/2021 2021-1222

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er

g Table Runn

Quilted Sprin

Spring has sprung all over this quilted table runner!

• (2) 7¼” squares – cut each square once on the diagonal to make 4 corner squares • (2) 3½” squares for nine patches

With leftover fabric, cut and sew 2½” strips to make 126” of binding Focus fat quarter

• 9½” square • (8) 3½” squares for nine patches Fat quarter B

• (4) 3½” squares for nine patches Fat quarter C

• (4) 3½” squares for nine patches Make it scrappy for spring using mask fabric cutoffs PFAFF performance icon

Spring brings to mind fresh beginnings and making space for the new. Some might call this spring cleaning, but when it comes to quilting, I think of it as using up my stash. Giving familiar fabrics a new life and repurposing makes the job of tidying up more fun. This week I’m using the PFAFF performance icon to sew a spring table runner and to quilt it too!

The PFAFF performance icon has many features that make sewing easy and yet still precise, and throughout this feature, I’ll share some of my favorites. I’ve come to realize I sometimes gloss over the built-in features that make using this machine so enjoyable, so I want to look at them in a little more detail.

Let’s start with a few fat quarters and some background fabric to make a fresh and happy spring table runner.

Fabric Requirements ½ yard background fabric 3 fat quarters ½ yard coordinating backing fabric batting

• • • •

Cutting Instructions

I couldn’t stop at just one table runner! I have lots of odd size scraps leftover from making masks. Instead of cutting them down to commonly used size scraps for my scrap bin, I’m using them to make a second table runner. Grab a ½ yard of some springinspired background fabric and mix up the rest of the pieces from your mask scraps.

Cut background fabric the same as for the Spring Table Runner (3) 2½” by length of fabric to make: (2) 2½” x 43” long border strips, and (2) 2½” x 13½” short borders 14” square – cut twice diagonally to make 4 side triangles 7¼” squares – cut each square once on the diagonal to make 4 corner squares • 3½” squares for nine patches

• • • • •

Note: For the scrappy table runner, I’ll sew 2½” wide strips from leftover mask fabrics together to make a binding strip that 126” long.

is

From background fabric

Focus square, cut 9½“ square.

(3) 2½” x length of fabric to make:

From various scraps, cut (16) 3½“ squares.

• (2) 2½” x 43” long border strips, and • (2) 2½” x 13½” short border strips • (1) 14” square – cut twice diagonally to make 4 side triangles 36

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Mask scraps for Scrappy Spring Table Runner project

With the fabric picked out and cut, all that’s left to do now is sew it all back together! Of course, it’s more fun than that, and the PFAFF performance icon will make quick, precise work of this cheerful spring project.

How the PFAFF performance icon helps sewing on-point quilt blocks Sew the nine patches For both runners, I placed the background fabric 3½” squares in the center of the middle row of the nine patch block.

For the Spring Table Runner, I positioned the focus fat quarter squares on each side of the background fabric square.

The IDT system engages with several of the presser feet included with the PFAFF performance icon. The IDT system helps feed the fabrics together under the needle and provides precise sewing every time. I’ll go into more detail later this week, but in the meantime, watch this video – What makes it so perfect?

PFAFF original IDT System.

Speaking of presser feet – the PFAFF performance icon comes with a fantastic foot, called the ¼” Quilting Foot for IDT System. This foot is almost always on my machine!

Corner square and side triangle placement with the left nine patch block.

Next, sew a side triangle to opposite sides of the center square. Look at the photo below to see how to orient the side triangles – you want the straight edges of the triangles lining up with the square. Press the seams to the triangles.

Nine patch layout for the Spring Table Runner

I wasn’t as random as I could have been with the Scrappy Table Runner since I used matching fabric squares. Position your squares in a pleasing arrangement, three in each row.

Sew the squares into rows and press the seams in alternating directions. I pressed the seams of the top and bottom rows to the left and the seams of the middle row to the right.

Piecing happiness with the PFAFF performance icon Here I go again forgetting to share with you the obvious ease I have when sewing with the PFAFF performance icon!

One of my favorite features is the Needle Up/Down button. When engaged, the needle will stay in the down position, in the fabric, when the machine stops. The presser foot will lift off the fabric enough for me to pivot to turn the fabric. It’s like sewing with an extra hand! I rarely pin when I’m sewing, unless my projects are longer than 12“, because the Needle Up/ Down feature helps keep everything moving evenly.

¼” Quilting Foot for IDT system

Add the setting and corner triangles I designed the table runner on-point to create lots of space for quilting. To sew the runner together, the units are sewn together on the diagonal. We’ll add the first row – one corner square – after we sew the other rows together.

To sew the second row, sew the bias-cut, long edge of one corner triangle to the side of one nine patch, centering the nine-patch edge. Sew the right-angle edge of one side triangle to the opposite edge of the nine-patch. Line up the squared corner with the bottom of the nine-patch block. Press both seams to the triangles.

Side triangle layout with focus fabric center.

Sew another side triangle and corner square to opposite sides of the right nine-patch block. This time it will be the side triangle first and the corner triangle on the right side. Press the seams to triangles.

Side triangle and corner square placement with right nine patch block.

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Now, let’s go back to the second row and sew a corner square to the top left of the nine-patch block, centering it along the edge. It can be helpful to fold the triangle in half and finger press at the center, then do the same for the nine-patch block row. The goal is to have an even overhang at each end for a seam allowance. Press the seam to the corner triangle.

Sew the remaining corner square to the bottom edge of the right nine-patch block unit. Press the seam towards the triangle.

Add a corner square to the left nine-patch block row.

The last step is to sew the rows together. The blocks and triangles should have nesting seams and will easily sew together. Press each seam toward the focus fabric row.

I used the Straight Stitch Needle Plate that comes with the PFAFF performance icon (in addition to the standard needle plate) which helps sew the triangles without my fabric getting pushed into the needle hole at the beginning of each row. I love that! It’s so important to not stretch these bias-cut triangles, and I know I can trust the machine to help me guide them under the needle accurately each time.

Add a corner square to the right nine-patch row.

The center of the Scrappy Spring Table Runner goes together in the same way – you can see it below. No matter the fabric, I like how easy it is to sew accurately and precisely with the PFAFF performance icon.

Scrappy Spring Table Runner top

Sew the on-point rows together.

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Perfect stitch-in-the-ditch quilting with the PFAFF performance icon

The PFAFF performance icon has great features to make sewing patchwork precise and effortless. It also makes finishing your projects easy, too! We’ll add some borders to the runner and start preparing to quilt it using quilt rulers.

Add the border The Spring Table Runner is already a nice size, but the addition of borders provides more room for a beautiful quilting design.

Sew the short border strips to each short end of the runner, pressing the seams towards the border fabric. Next, sew the long borders to each remaining side, again pressing the seams to the border fabric. The runner should measure 17½” x 43”.

INSPIRA Ruler Foot Template Set

Background fabric borders complete the Spring Table Runner top

Quilting with rulers I wanted to try something new with this table runner – quilting rulers. I’ve been looking forward to using the INSPIRA Ruler Foot Template Set. I feel pretty confident using the PFAFF performance icon now, and I’ve even tried free motion quilting with it. Testing out quilting rulers was the next logical step.

The INSPIRA Ruler Foot Template Set includes three quilting rulers and an 8” crosshair ruler to mark registration lines on the quilt top. This helps to line up the guide marks on the rulers as you move them while quilting.

8'' Crosshair Ruler on center fabric

I used the crosshair ruler to mark out lines on the center focus fabric. The ruler includes a dot right in the center to indicate where the needle starts when using the rulers.

I marked lines on the center square and both nine patches in preparation for quilting.

Closeup of needle dot in center of 8'' Crosshair Ruler

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Prepare quilt sandwich

Ruler Foot

It’s time to secure the layers together for quilting. Lay the backing fabric out, right side down, on a flat surface. Place the batting on top and center the table runner top, right side up, on top of the two layers. Pin through all three layers to secure them while quilting. I pinned every 2”, starting in the middle of each block and moving to the outer edges. I didn’t pin through the seams of the blocks because I knew I would stitch in the ditch around them. I also placed pins around the outside edge of the table runner to keep the layers together at the edge as I moved the runner under the needle.

Now it’s time to switch the presser foot to the Free Motion Ruler Foot. Don’t panic – the diagram printed on the packaging shows you how easy it is to do this!

Stitch in the Ditch I wanted to secure the layers together with some quilting before I used the quilt rulers. I changed to the Clear Stitchin-the-Ditch Foot for IDT System. I love this foot! The center metal guide helps you do perfect stitch-in-the-ditch quilting every time. I used it to stitch in the ditch around each of the nine patch blocks and the focus fabric center block.

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I activated the free-motion ruler foot by choosing it in the Free Motion menu, and noticed an image of a stitch plate appeared on the Multi-touch screen. I touched the image to see what it was all about.

I had changed the needle plate earlier, and but it’s recommended to use Straight Stitch Needle Plate with the free-motion ruler foot. I really like how this machine comes with two needle plates, and it’s easy to store the second plate in the base of the accessory tray when not in use. It’s easy to change the needle plate, too, which means I’m more likely to do it – and that means my stitching will look it’s best too.

The PFAFF performance icon has helped me successfully get this far in my runner project! The Clear Stitch-in-the-Ditch Foot for IDT System gave me perfect stitch-in-the-ditch quilting on my table runner, and I’m excited to try out the INSPIRA Ruler Foot Template Set to add some beautiful quilting to my Spring Table Runner.

Free Motion Ruler Foot

It’s easy to attach the Free Motion Ruler Foot.

Clear Stitch-in-the-Ditch foot for IDT System

Recommendations popup on the Multi-touch screen

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Beautiful ruler work made easy

Extension table added to the PFAFF performance icon

Let’s quilt our Spring Table Runner! Piecing for many quilters is what brings joy, but quilting, well, quilting can be a challenge.

The PFAFF performance icon has made quick, precise work of the project so far. Now I’ll use the Free-Motion Ruler Foot and try my hand at ruler quilting using the INSPIRA Ruler Foot Template Set. I added the extension table to the PFAFF performance icon to give me a larger flat surface for working. It easily replaces the accessory tray. The area between the needle and the Multi-touch screen is already really wide – and high too – and the addition of the extension table creates a nice, large workspace for quilting.

The quilted motif was too small for the area.

First attempt with quilting ruler Okay, so I may have been a little too excited to try out the rulers! The information printed directly on each ruler helps you line it up accurately so when you move the ruler to the next position, the design flows nicely.

One small detail I overlooked in my excitement was the size the quilting design would be when completed – the size information is also printed on the ruler. It turns out the quilting design was much too small for the space.

Using the heart template ruler in the nine patch block.

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I liked the scale of the heart ruler with my patchwork and decided to keep using it to add more quilting. This was not my original plan, so I was thinking about how else I add more curves to the top when the guide marks on the ruler inspired me to quilt half circles around the nine patch blocks themselves. I simply used the seam as a guide to line up the ruler and went around the blocks.

Registration marks on the nine patch block.

Using the top curve of ruler

Four hearts quilted with heart ruler

After using my seam ripper, I decided to change my quilting plan and use the heart ruler template instead. I started with it in the focus fabric block and quilted four hearts in a circle. I liked the design, so I did the same thing in each of the nine patch blocks. The large quilting area and bright LED lighting on the PFAFF performance icon made it easy to move the ruler across the block and see what I was doing.

The registration marks I made on the fabric helped me line up the template and complete the second half of the heart. I was encouraged by how quickly I figured out how to move the ruler while moving the table runner under the needle; remember the machine is set to a free-motion setting so the feed dogs are lowered.

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Quilting hearts on the background side triangles.

I decided to keep the theme going in the open spaces in the background. More hearts! I must tell, you at this point I was getting so confident in my ability to move the ruler over the runner and decided to use the Start/Stop button to put the machine in charge of moving the needle at a consistent speed. I wish I had done this earlier, as I immediately noticed an improvement in the stitches at the curves! The PFAFF performance icon has so many features to help make quilting easier, and I sometimes have to just stop and think, “What else can I use?”.

These hearts went quickly and smoothly; I put one in each side triangle with the point facing in and one in each corner square with the point on the outside edge.

Using the quilting rulers from the INSPIRA Ruler Foot Template Set was easier and more fun than I expected! The features of the PFAFF performance icon made this an enjoyable way to quilt the runner.

Hearts quilted with heart ruler template

Echo quilting makes the Spring Table Runner complete Now we’ll try out a new presser foot to finish the quilting. The PFAFF performance icon has been wonderful to work with on this project – from the piecing all the way to the quilting. I’ll show you how great it is for adding the binding too!

Free-Motion Echo quilting foot While the hearts look great, there’s still a lot of background fabric left to quilt. Since this is a table runner and not a quilt, a lot of quilting is okay. In fact, having an equal amount of quilting across the entire runner will help it lay flat.

I took this opportunity to try out another quilting foot available for the PFAFF performance icon – the Free-Motion Echo Quilting Foot. It attaches directly to the machine in the same way the FreeMotion Ruler Foot did. I put the parts from the machine into the echo quilting foot’s packaging so I wouldn’t lose them while I used the echo quilting foot, and they’re ready to re-attach to the machine when I’m finished with the echo quilting foot.

I used the Free-Motion Echo Quilting Foot to echo around the four hearts in each of the blocks. The extra row of stitching helped to give the hearts more definition. Next, I used the foot to echo around the outside edge of the hearts in the corner and side triangles.

Free-Motion Echo Quilting Foot

Quilted Spring Table Runner in the garden

The guide marks on the echo quilting foot helped keep an even space between the quilting lines, even going around curves.

In fact, I went around the runner three times with this foot and only realized as I was making my last round that I could turn the runner more and not always have to have it feeding straight under the needle. This foot uses a free motion setting with the feed dogs lowered, so the fabric can move

Guide marks on Free-Motion Echo Quilting Foot

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any way I want under the needle. I started to go a little faster, and really enjoyed it! I know it shouldn’t sound so strange, but I had fun quilting this table runner. Using the right tools certainly do make a job more enjoyable.

With all the quilting done, I trimmed away the excess batting and backing fabric to prepare for binding. I used the markings on one of my quilt rulers to make sure the distance from the border seam to the edge of the runner is the same on each side.

Front guide mark on ¼ Inch Right Guide Foot for IDT System

I’ll sew the binding to the reverse side of the runner first. I iron a ¼” of binding to the wrong side on one edge and sew it to the front edge of the runner to complete the binding. I like to use the ¼ Inch Right Guide Foot for IDT System to sew on the binding; the markings on the foot help me keep the seam allowance consistent, even at the corners. I use the Needle Up/Down button to hold the runner in place under the foot while I remove pins. Then I sew one side of the binding on at a time. The front guide mark on the ¼ Inch Right Guide Foot for IDT System shows me where to stop so I can turn the corner and maintain the correct seam allowance. I cut the threads and fold the binding over 90º, then fold it across itself to line it up along the next edge.

I sew the binding onto all four sides, and carefully sew the end of my binding strip onto the beginning of the strip for a bit of overlap. This is an old-fashioned way to finish (instead of joining the ends of the binding strips), but it works for me on small projects – and by small projects I mean all the quilts I do myself. ;) Now it’s time to fold the binding over to the front and sew it down by machine. I pin along the first edge, stopping as I get close to a corner. I turn it under and start pinning the next edge.

This method works because I can use the Needle Up/Down to help keep the runner in place, and the bright LED lights make it easy for me to see to pin right at the machine.

Use the inside edge of ¼ Inch Quilting foot for IDT System as a stitching guide.

I fold the binding over to the front and line it up so it just covers the stitches from sewing the binding to the back. I use the inner edge of the ¼ Inch Quilting foot for IDT System to sew close to the left edge of the binding when attaching it to the front. I’m getting better at this and my stitching line is now almost always tucked right against the binding on the back.

I can’t believe how much I enjoyed finishing the Spring Table Runner! The PFAFF performance icon made quick work of the quitting and the binding. And the second scrappy runner – it’s next in line for quilting.

Quilted Spring Table Runner

The Spring Table Runner is finished, but what am I going to do with yet another table runner?! I love the modern look of the heart quilting, so I think this one will make a great gift.

Sarah Vanderburgh

sewjoycreations.com

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In quilting, diamonds made easy with the Sew Easy 60° Triangle Ruler!

Claire Haillot

I’m so excited about this project – we’re making an oversized throw cushion!

Have you noticed how these cushions are popping up everywhere? It’s no wonder, as they’re not only very comfortable, but they allow a quilter to show off some awesome quilt designs… much more than your standard 20” cushions.

If you’re familiar with my quilting work, you’ll know I do have a particular preference to making diamond pattern quilt designs that look difficult but are actually very easy to make with the Sew Easy Triangle Ruler 60°. So, I thought I’d introduce you to diamonds with a simple pattern – The Diamond Hexagon.

To assist in this process, I’m using the following supplies, along with some of my favorite Kaffe Fasset Fat Quarters from my stash:

materials needed for the quilt top

• • • • • •

Komfort Kut 360° Rotating Cutting Mat Sew Easy Triangle Ruler 60° Sew Easy Half Diamond Ruler OLFA Quick Change Rotary Cutter Gütermann Cotton 50wt Thread Klassé Universal Sharps Needles – Size 70/10

for quilting the quilt top

• Gütermann Cotton 30wt Thread – Golden Sunset

• Gütermann Cotton 30wt Thread – Rustic Holiday

• Gütermann Cotton 30wt Thread – Autumn Leaves

• Fairfield Toasty Cotton Natural Cotton Quilt Batting (45” x 60”)

• Fabric Creations 100% Cotton Fabric – Light Brown – (2yds x 42”)

• Klassé Quilting Needles – Size 80/12 • Odif 505 Temporary Quilt Basting Adhesive Fabric Spray

for making the cushion

• Costumakers Invisible Closed End Zipper 55cm (22”) – Chestnut Brown

• Fairfield Poly-Fil Premium Fiber Fill – 4.5 The Diamond Hexagon oversized throw cushion

kg (10 lbs.)

• Fabric Creations Poly-Cotton Fabric – Brown (2yds x 42”)

• Gütermann Cotton 50wt Thread • Klassé Universal Sharps Needles – Size 70/10

Some supplies needed to make the Diamond Hexagon oversized throw cushion.

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For the fabrics, it’s better to have 24 different fabrics that mix well together. You won’t be needing much of each… just a strip about 21-22” long and either 2½” or 2¼” wide. You’ll also need one Fat Quarter of a solid color that blends well with all the others. This is the fun part of this project; you can go through your scraps and really have a blast picking out your favorites!

Making Diamonds Here’s the first step to making the Diamond Hexagon oversized throw cushion. The secret to making the triangle units (aka diamonds) is to use Sew Easy Triangle Ruler 60° and the Komfort Kut 360° Rotating Cutting Mat. Having the Komfort Kut Rotary Cutting Mat makes this step easy, since you won’t need to touch your fabric when cutting the triangles. You simply rotate the cutting mat, realign your Sew Easy Triangle Ruler 60°, and cut your next piece. It’s that simple, just watch this YouTube video.

Step 1

Step 1

Step 2

• Cut one 2½” strip from each of 4 different fabrics.

• Stitch them together to make a rectangle approximately 8½” x 22”.

• Repeat to make 2 while ensuring you don’t use the same fabrics.

Step 2

• Using the rotating cutting mat and your Sew

Easy Triangle Ruler 60°, cut 3 triangles from each Step 1 rectangle.

TIP The trick when cutting the triangles is to ensure you don’t cut a point at the edge of the triangle.

Ensure your ruler is exceeding the fabric by ¼” before cutting; you’ll see how it makes the whole project just a little easier to do.

• You’ll have a total of 6 triangles made for the

Ensure your ruler exceeds the fabric by ¼” before cutting.

center piece of your Diamond Hexagon.

Step 3

• Cut one 2¼” strip from each of 4 different fabrics.

• Stitch them together to make a rectangle approximately 7½” x 22”.

• Repeat to make 5 while ensuring you don’t use

the same fabrics. Note: Should you need to use the same fabric more than once, try to change the location of where it’ll be pieced – either on the edge or in the middle – in different rectangles.

Step 3

Photos by Christine Baker

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Step 4

• Using the Komfort Kut rotary cutting mat and your Sew Easy Triangle Ruler 60°, cut 3 triangles from each Step 3 rectangles.

TIP Ensure you don’t cut a point at the edge of the triangle.

Make sure your ruler is exceeding the fabric by ¼” before cutting.

• You’ll need a total of 14 triangles for your oversized cushion.

(You’ll have one extra if you cut 3 from each rectangle.)

I love making this project using the Sew Easy Triangle Ruler 60°! The horizontal lines help ensure my seams remain aligned when I’m cutting the triangles, so they’ll also align during the piecing. Watch this video explaining the benefits of the ruler.

Step 4

Step 5

• From your solid fat quarter fabric, cut 12 – 1½” strips (you’ll need all of your fat quarter).

• Cut one edge of each strip at a 60° • Stitch the strip to the edge of the triangles made in Step 4.

• Make 14 triangles (the size will be identical to those you made in Step 1).

That’s all for the instructions. Hope you’re enjoying this project so far. It’s really a simple way to make Diamonds Hexagons that only look complex. Note that I pieced the project with Gütermann Cotton 50wt Thread and Klassé Universal Sharps Needles – Size 70/10. I love to use Gütermann thread for beautiful and strong seams on my projects!

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Ensure your ruler exceeds the fabric by ¼” before cutting.

Keep all your scraps… all the cut edges left from Steps 4 and 5. I’ll show you what to do with them in the next pages when I introduce the Sew Easy Half Diamond Ruler.

Step 5

Diamond Hexagon pieced with Gütermann thread.

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1 ruler, 1 rotary cutter for making half diamond units We covered how to make the triangles (aka diamonds) for the pattern and now we’ll make the Half Diamond units using the Sew Easy Half Diamond Ruler and the OLFA 45mm Quick Change Rotary Cutter.

I’m quite fond of this rotary cutter, as I can easily change blades in just a single click. No more confusing assembly with a washer and a nut! I just need to slide the locking mechanism and the blade immediately pops out! And it’s really easy to insert a new blade. Another thing I like is the innovative spilt blade cover which allows for extra safety protection while cutting. It’s perfect for right and left-handed quilters since each side slides back and forth independently.

Watch the video to see for yourself.

Making Half Diamonds Remember at the end of the previous page I mentioned keeping all your scraps? Now’s the time to bring them back onto your cutting mat, along with your Sew Easy Half Diamond ruler and your OLFA Quick Change Rotary Cutter.

Step 1

Step 3

• Cut 8 Half Diamond units from your

• Cut a 1½” strip from another fabric of

• 4 units have the 60° angle on the left • 4 units have the 60° angle on the right

• Stitch to the edge of 4 half diamond

scraps while ensuring that:

You should also have one extra unit from the previous Step 4 (if you truly cut 3 triangles out of each rectangle, that is) and you could use it to make these half diamonds. Don’t hesitate to sew more 2¼” strips together should you need to as well.

Step 2

your choice (I chose the green with orange polka dot). units from Step 1 as follows:

» 2 units with the 60° angle on the left » 2 units with the 60° angle on the right Keep reading for the big reveal! You’ll get to see just how easy it is to make the Diamond Hexagon oversized throw cushion!

• Stitch a 1½” strip from your solid fabric to the edge of 4 half diamond units from Step 1 as follows:

• 2 units with the 60° angle on the left • 2 units with the 60° angle on the right

Step 1 with the 60° angle on the left

Sew additional strips together should you need to before cutting a Half Diamond unit.

Making Half Diamonds for the Diamond Hexagon Cushion

Final layout of the Diamond Hexagon Cushion

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4 easy steps to piecing the colorful Diamond Hexagon cushion top

Assembling the Diamond Hexagon using Gütermann Threads

Step 1 – piece rows 1A and 1B.

Just four simple steps is all it takes to piece this project using Gütermann 50wt Cotton Thread and Klassé Size 70/10 Universal Sharps Needles. You’ll be surprised how easy it is to simply piece all the units when you do it row by row.

Step 1

Yes! You read that right! We’ll piece this project like any other project – row by row. Look at the project pinned on your design wall – are you seeing the rows now? Here’s an illustration to help you out:

• Stitch all your units from Row 1A together.

• Makes an 8½” x 28½” • Repeat with Row 1B.

Step 2 – piece rows 2A and 2B.

Step 2

• Stitch all your units from Row 2A together.

• Makes an 8½” x 28½” • Repeat with Row 2B.

Do you see the rows in the design? Note the row numbers, these will help when piecing.

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Step 3

• Stitch Row 1A and 2A together.

• Makes a 16½” x 28½” • Repeat with Rows 1B and 2B. Step 4

• Stitch your two Step 3 units together.

• Makes a 32½” x 28½” See how easy it was to assemble your Diamond Hexagon cushion? Your Sew Easy 60° Triangle Ruler and Sew Easy Half Diamond Ruler help create straight seams that align perfectly when sewing. All you need to do nest the seam allowances where they meet (make sure one seam allowance goes in one direction, and the other goes in the opposite direction) as you sew to get a nice, flat seam.

The units are all sewn together to complete the cushion top Step 3 – piece 1A and 2A units together.

This completes the part on assembling the quilt top of the Diamond Hexagon cushion. I really enjoy working with Gütermann 50wt cotton thread. In fact, I like the thread so much that I have a Gütermann 3000m spool on my machine at all times for piecing!

Nest the seam allowances in opposite directions when stitching.

Assembling the Diamond Hexagon.

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How to quilt Diamond Hexagon cushion top using your walking foot

I’ll show you all my tricks for an easy quilting process. When looking at the design and choice of fabrics I made, I realized there was no need for fancy free-motion quilting. The design and the fabrics already have so much character, so I’ll do some subtle quilting to balance the ensemble.

Sandwiching your quilt The first step you need to take is to sandwich your quilt with a backing and batting. For this project, I used Fabric Creations 100% Cotton Fabric for the backing, and Fairfield Toasty Cotton Natural Cotton Quilt Batting.

The project size is 32½” x 28½”, so I cut the batting and backing to 38” x 32” and then basted the layers together using Odif 505 Temporary Quilt Basting Adhesive Fabric Spray.

If you need to brush up on this part of the quilting step, be sure to read my blog explaining the 6 essential tips to finish a quilt you want to use every time.

Quilting After waiting to ensure the basting spray was set, I went to my sewing machine and was ready to quilt using a walking foot and a Klassé Size 80/12 Quilting Needle. I had carefully planned the quilting – starting in the center and moving out – and I had three different thread colors that would help me make just the right quilting statement.

Quilted Diamond Hexagon oversized throw cushion

Quilting supplies needed for the Diamond Hexagon oversized throw cushion

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Quilt sandwiched and ready for quilting.

Section 1

Squaring off the quilt

I threaded my machine with Gütermann 30wt Cotton Thread in Golden Sunset to quilt the center of the quilt.

Once all the quilting was done, I staystitched ¼” from the edge of the quilt and cut away the excess batting and backing. Normally I’d be ready to add a border to finish the quilt, but since I’m turning this project into a cushion, there was one more thing I had to do – square off the quilt. Or, in this case, ensure it was a perfect rectangle!

To set my diamonds, I opted to stitch in the ditch, starting at the center of the piece and moving my way outward, stopping at the solid color strip. Once I had the lines stitched, I buried the threads into the quilt using a Clover Self Threading Needle. If you’ve never tried a self-threading needle, you just don’t realize how your life could be made so much easier! You’ll notice there are two eyes on the needle. The one on top has a tiny V-shape right above it. Simply grab your thread, stretch it across the V-shape, and carefully slide it downward. It’ll move right through into the eye.

Once that portion was done, I began quilting ¼” away from each seam, beginning with the smallest section in the middle and working my way out, stopping just before the solid color strip.

Echoing the hexagon design felt just right for this project.

Use a Clover self threading needle to bury your thread ends.

Quilt ¼” away from the seams.

I pulled out my Omnigrip 20½” x 20½” Ruler and proceeded to square off one corner of the rectangle, then squared off the other corner on the same edge.

Once these two were perfectly squared off, I folded my quilt in half, positioned the square ruler alongside my Omnigrip 8½” x 24” Ruler (to get the width I needed) and cut away the excess fabric and batting.

Section 2 I switched thread color and began quilting ¼” away from the seam on the solid color strip. I stitched in the ditch at the seams that extend to the corners of the quilt (the sections where two solid color strips connect). Then I quilted the other side of the solid strips extending to the corners of the quilt.

Fold the quilt in half to finish squaring off the project.

The outer diamonds have been quilted with Gütermann Cotton 30wt thread in Autumn Leaves.

Section 3 I switched thread color once more and stitched in the ditch between the diamond and half diamonds units surrounding the center piece. This time, I started at the edge of the solid strip and worked my way out. Then I quilted ¼” away from each seam, beginning beside the solid color strip and worked my way to the edge of the quilt.

Remember to quilt in alternating directions

Remember to quilt in alternating directions, meaning if you quilt one line clockwise, quilt the next line counterclockwise. If you use the edge of your walking foot as a guide to echo quilting beside the seams, you’ll automatically do this.

The final size of my Diamond Hexagon oversized throw cushion is 27½” x 32”.

Using some of my favorite quilting supplies and tools – Fabric Creations 100% Cotton Fabric, Fairfield Toasty Cotton Natural Cotton Quilt Batting, Odif 505 Temporary Quilt Basting Adhesive Fabric Spray, Klassé Size 80/12 Quilting Needle, Gütermann 30wt Cotton Thread in Golden Sunset, Clover Self Threading Needles, Omnigrip 20½” x 20½” Ruler, and the Omnigrip 8½” x 24” Ruler – along with my helpful tricks, made quilting the Diamond Hexagon oversized cushion really easy. I hope you enjoyed the process as much as I did. I find it quite relaxing, and it’s rewarding to see how beautiful this project is turning out.

Now you’re probably wondering where we’ll find a cushion form for this size of a project. Well, that’s coming up, as I show you how to make your very own cushion form for this beautiful, quilted cushion cover. Read on!

Squaring off the project using my Omnigrip ruler.

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How to make a custom filler for the oversized Diamond Hexagon cushion

The gorgeous Diamond Hexagon cushion deserves a zipper that looks like it was inserted by professionals, I’ve already written a blog post on that. Be sure to read How the creative icon does half the work for you when adding a zipper to help you finish your beautiful, oversized cushion cover.

Here are the supplies I used to make the cushion form: Fairfield Poly-Fil Premium Fiber Fill Fabric Creations Poly-Cotton Fabric – Brown (2yds x 42”) Gütermann Cotton 50wt Thread Klassé Universal Needles – Size 70/10

• • • •

Now, I must talk specifically about the Fairfield Poly-Fil Premium Fiber Fill. This is my new best friend! One box contains 10 pounds of 100% polyester fiber fill. I thought the box looked small and figured I would need to use the entire box to make one cushion. I was happily surprised when I opened the bag inside the box, and the Poly-fill began expanding – a lot! I only used half the box to make my huge cushion! So, it’s a very good investment. And I love the feel of the cushion with this filler. It’s dense and keeps its shape.

Making the cushion form This is absolutely the easiest part of the entire project! Simply: Making the back of the cushion cover

Here’s the list of supplies I used to make the cushion cover: • Clover 2” Flower Head Pins • Costumakers 22” Invisible Closed End Zipper in Chestnut Brown • Klassé Quilting Needles – Size 80/12 • Gütermann Cotton 30wt Thread – Autumn Leaves • (2) 27½” x 16½” pieces Fabric Creations 100% Cotton Fabric • my quilted Diamond Hexagon cushion panel

• Cut a 27½” x 64” rectangle from your Fabric Creations PolyCotton Fabric, and fold in half.

• Stitch along the raw edges with a ¼” seam allowance,

leaving a 6” opening along one side to insert the poly-fill.

• Fill with poly-fill until your desired thickness. Be sure to

gently massage the fill into the corners and areas where you need to add more filling.

• Hand stitch to close the opening.

Stuffing your cushion form with Fairfield Poly-Fil.

That’s it! You’re done! You’re now ready to insert the cushion form inside your Diamond Hexagon oversized throw cushion cover.

Ready to make the cushion form

Claire Haillot

quiltingwithclaire.com/wp/

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Hope you’ve enjoyed the many tricks I showed you this week to make the Diamond Hexagon oversized throw cushion. You’ll be able to make any size cushion you want now that you also know how to create your filler cushion with Fairfield Poly-Fil Premium Fiber Fill!

Please do let me know how the project is working out for you, and don’t forget to tag #thesewgoeson whenever you post your finished project on your favorite social media. I look forward to seeing your pics!

by Deborah Edwards

Part of our range of Bold, Beautiful Basics, CANVAS features a vibrant palette of premium quality fabrics with a soft hand and a superior thread count. Perfect for adding subtle depth, this range of textured-looking blenders offers 57 saturated colors, that are sure to add some pop to any project. Make your next design jump off the quilt with CANVAS! View the full collection at www.northcott.com and ask your local quilt shop if they are carrying CANVAS!

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My Quilting Life: Japanese Quilt Blocks for a Zen Cushion

Pam Voth

Learning something new is all about adding to your muscle memory. When it comes to measuring and cutting for a quilting project, it becomes second nature. I read and re-read the measurements (I do it three times) to ensure I got it right and then, I measure three times before I cut.

There were no instructions on what to sew together first. How many times in our lives are we faced with something where we just don’t now what to do next? Taking some time to just breathe really helps. I'm, generally, impatient to get to a solution and so, learning to pause and breathe has definitely been a journey. In the end, after some thinking, I sewed the pieces together using the 5 Stitch Trick that I will share with you in my video.

The Japanese Zen Cushion finds a home

I left my last blog with a goal to use my Christmas gift book, Japanese Taupe Quilts by Susan Briscoe to create some elegant and tranquil cushion for my living room. You can be the judge of whether I achieved this state of Zen. I feel like I have worked on some difficult projects by now. I remember the Dresden Plate as a big learning curve at the time. I have become more adept at certain things. I can now create a baby quilt from my original pattern in a matter of a few hours. I love hexies of all kinds and I’m even getting better at applique. All this being said, I found this layered quadruple wheel very challenging. Not to be daunted, I moved forward and completed my first (and definitely not my last) Zen cushion.

Lockdown made this a struggle because I still couldn’t shop for fabrics. I started by using what I had but, this project required me to scrap some versions – or refer to them as practice blocks.

I ran out of border fabric – anyway, the moral of this story is stay positive and be patient. The stores opened, I figured out how to make the block work and, I achieved my Zen goal. Although, honestly, I would say that I, at times, did not feel too Zen during the process! Quilting is a great substitute for the problem solving and perseverance required in my former job as an elementary principal.

As I learned how the assembly worked best, I decided to create my first block into a smaller cushion and then create more blocs to make another cushion (later).

Cutting the squares to make the triangles

Fabrics from my stash

Photos by Pam Voth

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I created a 12” x 16” cushion by adding a border of 2½” on one side and 3½” on the other side. This, I considered, my final practice block because now I have a system and I can create the other cushion, possibly without tearing my hair out – with satisfaction, of course.

I added batting to the cushion and decided to top stitch around the block and in the pinwheel pattern. I machine quilted it and then sewed the plain back of the cushion on. I made sure that the entire cushion was 15” x 11” so that, when the cushion went in, there’s a snug fit. I debated a zipper but, it’s a living room cushion so, over time, steaming it will keep it dust-free and clean.

I completed two pillows for my living room and totally enjoyed the versatility of the blocks.

All journeys are up and down and none of them are linear. My quilting journey branches out in all directions. This month alone, I have created a baby quilt and continued working on my sampler quilt, as well as my Zen Japanese cushion. I continue to adore my quilting group. These amazing friends and mentors not only encourage and inspire me to be better than we would be on our own. When I think about being connected to someone, I’m more interested in listening to them than I’m about sharing my own thoughts but, in the end, when we share our burdens, joys, questions and lives, we grow. I have grown because I have been opened to learning from others.

Four completed layered quadruple blocks

What’s next? I’m looking forward to starting my version of the Spectrum QAL2020 with fabric support from Riley Blake Designs, I’m using the very ‘delightful’ Delightful Collection. I’ll also want to share the courage of my mentor and friend Heather, by making a beautiful bordered hexie table runner.

Japanese Zen cushion 2

I love quotes so, I leave you with this: There are no limits to what you can accomplish, except the limits you place on your own thinking.

– Brian Tracy

Pam Voth

quiltsocial.com/author/qs_pam/

Finished Japanese Zen Cushion

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Light Years Beyond

Presenting the Luminaire 2 Innov-ís XP2. Brilliant new quilting innovations and app-based features available from your mobile devices let you find perfection in every stitch.

13.1"

Enjoy StitchVision technnology and see your designs projected on fabric before you begin to embroider.

Experience the comfort of sewing on 65 square inches of workspace, the largest of any Brother machine.

The Luminaire 2 has the magic of 192 built-in Disney embroidery designs and 10 decorative Disney stitches.

Stop your stitch in the perfect place just by placing the Snowball End Point Sticker on your project.

Large 10.1” HD LCD touchscreen display with capacitive technnology.

Enjoy 2-colour quilting sash designs, built-in hexagon shapes for auto split sash, single or triple stitching, and more.

Visit an authorized Brother dealer today to find out more! brother.ca/en/XP2 Photos are for illustration purposes only. Brother and its logo are trademarks of Brother Industries, Ltd., Japan. All specifications are subject to change without notice. All registered trademarks referenced herein are the property of their respective companies. ©2021 Brother International Corporation (Canada) Ltd. 1, rue Hôtel de Ville, Dollard-des-Ormeaux, Québec, H9B 3H6. 05/2021-2021-1222

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A NEEDLE PULLING THREAD QUILT SEW KNIT CROCHET CROSS STITCH EMBROIDER HOOK RUGS

A NEEDLE PULLI NG THREAD

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Neutral wit h M ake Stay Calm

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Visit www.ANPTmag.com to order

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Get quilting!

EMBROID

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