QUILTsocial | Issue 22 by A Needle Pulling Thread

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EAT, SLEEP, QUILT, REPEAT!

22+ essential TIPS for free motion quilting success [beginners] Marking interfacing for art quilt appliques Simple free motion quilt designs In quilting, using a twin needle IS double the fun [tutorial]

How to choose the right stabilizer for your machine embroidery project

Everything you need to know about making ART QUILTS!

Editor's Letter If you’ve struggled with free motion quilting before and thought there’s not much hope for achieving the results you imagine, take heart! We have excellent free-motion quilting exercises to restore faith in your quilting potential. Think of freemotion quilting as writing or drawing with two hands facing down and motioning the desired images. This quilting technique takes the same kind of hand-eye coordination and practice as it does when learning to hold a pen and write, in this case, the trick is to learn how to move your hands in a new way. And so, in this issue, Robin Bogaert reveals important exercises that help you prepare for quilting designs on your sewing machine. After practicing the motion on paper, all it takes is a little practice on scraps of fabric. Practicing will give you the fluidity

you’re looking for. Check out her potholders, made by using fabric to practice free-motion quilting. Or you might want to turn your fabric samples into a reference ‘book’ of your quilting designs. We also show you how to make those outstanding art quilts you drool over at quilt shows. How do these fiber artists achieve their quilted masterpieces? Awardwinning quilter Claire Haillot walks you through how she did her version of quilt artist Lise Bélanger’s Ariel quilt. She writes about the importance of color values and contrast play, and the must-have tool for fabric placement which is so important for art quilts. Claire also explains how six essential

tools for detailed art appliques and marking your interfacing for art quilt appliques make a world of difference in achieving the art quilts you’ve been dreaming about. Then if this wasn’t enough quilting tutorials in one single issue, see Jean Boyd’s tutorial on using a twin needle to double up the quilting fun. I hope you’ll give these exercises and tutorials a try, the trick is to be patient and practice! Enjoy the issue. Cheerfully,

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PUBLISHER, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ART DIRECTOR Carla A. Canonico carla@QUILTsocial.com PUBLISHER, ADVERTISING SALES John De Fusco john@QUILTsocial.com PHOTOGRAPHERS Carla A. Canonico, John De Fusco BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS Elaine Theriault crazyquilteronabike.com Jean Boyd patternsbyjeanboyd.com Robin Bogaert quiltingintheloft.com Claire Haillot quiltingwithclaire.com GRAPHIC & WEB DESIGN Carla A. Canonico carla@QUILTsocial.com GRAPHIC ASSISTANT and SOCIAL MEDIA Sondra Armas WEB and IT SUPPORT Alejandro Araujo WEBSITE / BLOG : https://QUILTsocial.com Like us on Facebook : QUILTsocial Follow us on Pinterest : quiltsocial Follow us on Instagram : quiltsocial Follow us on Twitter : @QUILTsocial WHERE TO GET YOUR COPY QUILTsocial is a quarterly eMagazine published by A Needle Pulling Thread. It is available free for personal use online at https://QUILTsocial.com. A limited number of printed copies of QUILTsocial are available for purchase at select quilt shops and specialty stores. Ask for it at your local shop. QUILTsocial is not available by subscription.

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QUILT SHOPS If you are interested in carrying QUILTsocial in your store, please email john@QUILTsocial.com. EDITORIAL Designers and other contributors who would like to be considered for future issues please email carla@QUILTsocial.com with a brief description of your work and your proposed project for the magazine. ©2022 QUILTsocial. All rights reserved. Issue 22 ISSN 2368-5913. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are for private, non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted material owned by their respective creators or owners.

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EAT, SLEEP, QUILT, REPEAT!

CONTENTS 8

Color values and contrast make this art quilt a ‘mane’ event

The must-have tool for fabric placement and art quilt success

Marking your interfacing for art quilt appliques

6 essential tools for detailed art quilt appliques

Must-have tools to guide you through free motion quilting

The Brother NQ700 and decorative stitches: the perfect match for quilting

The very best way to prepare your template from a quilt pattern

Making the most of decorative stitches for making applique mittens

In quilting, using a twin needle IS double the fun [tutorial]

What to do with leftover fabric: It’s all in the border

10 key tools for successful free motion quilting and how to use them

22+ essential TIPS for free motion quilting success [beginners]

How to free motion spirals on your quilt: 3 dynamic designs

Boost your free motion quilting skills with these 3 nature-inspired designs

2 great template sets you need for impressive free motion quilting

How to choose the right stabilizer for your machine embroidery project

INSPIRA water-soluble stabilizers for superb machine embroidery results

In machine embroidery: knit fabric stays put with the right stabilizers

How to fix a hole in a knit sweater with machine embroidery

Sewing on a button and a snap with the Husqvarna Viking Designer Ruby 90

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and there's so much more! 6

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Presenting the Ariel Art Quilt Pattern by Lise Bélanger

Color values and contrast make this art quilt a ‘mane’ event Claire Haillot

If you're looking into trying something new in quilting, well I really have a special project for you this week. I decided to make Ariel, a beautiful art quilt from the talented Lise Bélanger. And if that’s not enough! I also have a bunch of notions to help me create this masterpiece with more ease. I just can’t wait to share all my new favorite tools and how they made this project easier to achieve. I have so much to share… I honestly don’t know where to begin! Let’s start with the pattern! Ariel is an art quilt pattern created by the very talented Lise Bélanger. She’s won several awards and has ventured into making beautiful patterns that are absolutely easy to follow. And with this week’s blog posts that include all my tips and tricks, the process is even easier! Now the pattern gives all the details for the quantities of fabric needed to make the quilt, but there’s one tool that I really love using to help me choose the color coordination wisely. It’s the SEW EASY Colour & Tone Guide and Tonal Estimator. Also check out this video for more information. So go through all your fabrics and pick wisely thanks to the SEW EASY Colour & Tone Guide and Tonal Estimator! I’ll be back you tomorrow for more awesome tools to make this great project.

Choose the right fabrics with the SEW EASY Colour & Tone Guide

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The must-have tool for fabric placement and art quilt success

I’ll show you how I got ready to prepare the pattern for fabric placement. Inside the pattern, you have a true to size layout of the art quilt, in mirror effect. This is intended to help you prepare the cellophane and interfacing easily.

But before I begin, I have to tell you about my must-have tool for making this project. I wasn’t sure how useful it would be at first, but as soon as I started working on transferring the pattern, I realized I couldn’t make this project without it. It’s the UNIQUE Lighting Foldable LED Desk Lamp. This desk lamp has a bright white light offering true-to-life colors and clearer, sharper details. And the best part is that is has a magnifier with 2x magnification and 4x insert. It’s removable… but trust me… you’ll want to keep it as it’s really handy to mark and cut the fine details on this project.

The UNIQUE Lighting Foldable LED Desk Lamp is an absolute must have

Transferring your design on cellophane

I followed the instructions in Lise Bélanger’s pattern. She suggests drawing the design on cellophane to help you position your fabrics in the next step. You can usually find cellophane in most stores in the wrapping paper section; you can even try to get some at a florist as that’s what they use to protect flower arrangements.

Using cellophane to mark the design

Here is a video showing you exactly how I transferred the design onto the cellophane. Once the design is all traced on the cellophane, remember to write ‘BACK’ onto the cellophane. So you know to reverse it before positioning it over your background fabric. You should now see the design exactly how you see it on the cover of the pattern. Use your Omnigrip Ruler and Clover Water Soluble Marker (thick) to mark the outer edge of your background fabric for easy placement of the cellophane. The cellophane has to be well positioned and easy to move around as you’ll be adding your fabrics piece by piece in the next step… and believe me… it will be exciting to see this come to life! Tell me what you think of my must-have tool - the UNIQUE Lighting Foldable LED Desk Lamp. Are you running out to your local quilt shop to get yours now?

Marking your background fabric with Omnigrip ruler and Clover Water erasable marker (Thick)

Photos by Claire Haillot

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Marking your interfacing for art quilt appliques

Marking your HeatnBond interfacing for art quilt appliques

Now I’ll show you what you need to prepare all your appliques. You probably all guessed by now that you need interfacing to make this project. I decided to test out HeatnBond Feather Lite Iron-On Adhesive. It is a lightweight iron-on adhesive that doesn’t add extra weight or stiffness to the project. The solid sheet adhesive and paper backing allowed me to easily draw my pieces; I didn’t need a light table to see the design underneath. Once applied using the directions on the package, it was also easy to quilt. When you use HeatnBond Feather Lite Adhesive iron on, you’ll notice that the interfacing is attached to one of the papers and the other piece of paper is removable. That piece is there to protect the interfacing before you use it. I remove that piece before I mark my interfacing to ensure that I mark the correct one, hence the one that is attached to the interfacing. I simply place it on top of the design and mark my pieces. I thought I would make this part easier by preparing a video explaining how to mark the Ariel pattern by Lise Bélanger onto your interfacing. Now for this project, I divided my interfacing into color categories just so that I wouldn’t get too lost. Keeping the color codes in sections made it easier for me during the process of getting the interfacing onto the fabrics. I made another video to show you how to determine when you need to begin your excess seam allowances around your pieces.

Categorizing your pieces by color groupings

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So, get all your interfacing marked using the HeatnBond Feather Lite Iron-On Adhesive and cut the pieces out leaving at least ¼’’ around all your marked edges. Remember to keep all your pieces categorized by fabric color.

6 essential tools for detailed art quilt appliques Let's get the interfacing onto your fabrics and create the wonderful Ariel quilt pattern designed by Lise Bélanger.

Since you’re now familiar with HeatnBond Feather Lite Iron-On Adhesive, I’ll present the other tools that really helped during the project. KAI 1000 Series Embroidery Scissors – 5½’’ With a sharp point and straight blades, these scissors are great for cutting your fused fabrics as precision is important. But I have to admit that it’s the fatiguefree cutting that was the deal breaker for me! They have soft ergonomic handle grips and hardened stainless steel blades which offer superior cutting action. The trick is to always cut in the bottom half part of the scissors and keep the piece moving so you don’t lose momentum in the motion. If you cut using the tip of your scissors and without the continued motion, you won’t have a smooth edge. UNIQUE Sewing Twizzers - Straight Blades This helps me cut small details, but I mostly use it for when the piece is fused and I need to cut out specific areas once I am in the quilting stage of the project. The stainless steel straight blades always cut with precision. UNIQUE Sewing Bent Tweezers A must-have! I use it for handling all the small pieces that need to be cut when preparing the fabrics with interfacing. And then I use it once more to position the pieces under the cellophane. And that’s not all! I use them again when quilting my projects to grab my threads (I’ll show you on Friday…. Promise!)

UNIQUE Quilting Wool Pressing Mat - 14’’x 14’’ - Grey This is absolutely my new best friend! The pressing mat is made of premium quality New Zealand wool that is tightly felted and very thick (½’’), and as wool retains heat, it’s like your fabric gets ironed from both sides at the same time. I love it so much; I even got the bigger size, 18’’ x 24’’, and keep it at all times beside my sewing machine. UNIQUE QUILTING Double Sided Applique Pressing Sheet - Brown - 18’’ x 18’’ This is a double-sided pressing sheet that you need to use when bonding interfacing (fusible web, glue or any type of sticky stuff when crafting) with your iron. You place it in between your project and your iron to protect the surface of your iron. You’ll never have to clean a dirty iron again. The applique pressing sheet is easy to clean also! Just rub off the excess glue and you can continue with the next piece!

Presenting the perfect tools for detailed art quilt appliques

Pressing the interfacing onto the fabric and cutting on the marks

Using the magnifier to help you cut tiny pieces

OLISO PRO TG1600 Pro Plus Smart Iron And the final must have tools for this project is my OLISO Pro TG 1600 Smart iron. Although I must say that I also used my OLISO M2Pro Mini Project Iron when fusing sections of the mane onto the project. You can read my thoughts on both irons in this previous blog post I wrote: Introducing the new baby in my quilt life: Oliso mini project iron.

Using the UNIQUE Bent Tweezers to position your fused fabrics

The final layout of the Ariel art quilt pattern

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Must-have tools to guide you through free motion quilting I am so happy to share my tips on how to free motion quilt this project. I must say that creating this quilt had its share of challenges, but I was able to succeed thanks to several tools I found. These tools are must-haves when it comes to free motion quilting. Here are the must-have tools I loved using for quilting this project. Klassé Quilting Needles Size 80/12

Presenting the must-have tools for free motion quilting the Ariel art quilt pattern by Lise Bélanger

These needles are ideal for quilting this project using Gütermann 30 wt cotton quilting thread. Their strengthened longer shaft helps reduce needle deflections as the needle penetrates multiple layers of fabric while maintaining a perfectly straight stitch. Now keep in mind that I used Fairfield Toasty Cotton Natural Cotton Quilt Batting for the project. And I can honestly say that I used all the 5 needles in the cassette to quilt this project. As soon as you start ‘hearing’ the needle punching through the fabrics, it’s time to change needles (tops 8 hours on this piece as there was a lot of layers and interfacing). UNIQUE Quilting Grip Gloves I honestly can’t quilt without them! Wearing these gloves help you easily control your project as you quilt! They have soft, flexible grips that give you full hand control so you can guide fabric effortlessly reducing tiredness and tension in hands, arms, shoulders and neck. UNIQUE Sewing SeamFix Red Seam Ripper and Thread Remover

Quilting straight lines to reproduce the horse’s body

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Now this is a new tool for me and I can honestly say that it will never leave my side. Now it starts as a seam ripper with sharp blades, so there’s nothing amazing about that part. But it’s for what follows that makes this tool so great! It has a safety ball and lid with innovative thread removers on each end. Especially formulated plastic material grabs and removes excess threads without marking or sticking to the fabric.

And yes! I had to make a video to show you exactly how useful it is when you need to undo a section you just quilted. I really enjoyed quilting Ariel using the free motion quilting. I started by quilting the eye as those were the smallest fabric pieces and I didn’t want them to accidentally peel off while quilting the rest of the project. And then I moved around the eye. Changing the thread color every time I changed sections to match the fabric. The trick to a smooth free motion quilting is to adjust the speed of your machine and knowing what you want to quilt before starting. Here’s a video showing how I quilted the straight lines using the free motion technique. And here is a video demonstrating how I free motion quilted one of the manes. I also demonstrate how the bent tweezers are so useful to grab the threads at the beginning of the quilting to ensure proper tension. And listen to the end as I show how to cut off and hide the thread at the end of the quilting.

Free motion quilting on the Ariel art quilt pattern by Lise Bélanger

Now I know what you’re thinking! You’re afraid to make this quilt cause you don’t think you can pull the quilting off…. Well, here’s the scoop… YES, YOU CAN! This project makes it really simple… because the mane is a collection of small pieces, they’re actually the perfect size to practice. And best of all you can practice with a pen and paper beforehand. Here’s another video to explain my process! Once you finally finish quilting, you’ll have one last thing to do, after you finish the binding of course! The final tool you need for this project is the Odif Fabric Protect. You simply spray an even application throughout your project to protect it from dust or unexpected spills while also protecting it against sun fading from the UV rays. And don’t worry, it won’t stiffen, soak or discolor your fabrics. It’s the final touch for any art quilt.

Odif Fabric Protect is the must-have product for any art quilt

Claire Haillot

www.quiltingwithclaire.com

And that ends my blog posting on how to create this stunning art quilt. I really hope that I’ve convinced you to make one for yourself. It’s not too late to get started; it can be the perfect Christmas gift for a loved one. And remember that free motion quilting can be a success with the help of tools like Klasse Quilting Needles Size 80/12, UNIQUE Quilting Grip Gloves, and UNIQUE Sewing SeamFix Red Seam Ripper and Thread Remover.

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T he Brother NQ700 and decorative stitches: the perfect match for quilting Jean Boyd In September and October, I introduced you to the Brother Innov-is NQ700 machine as we made a fun Halloween wall quilt and some quick Christmas gifts. The Brother NQ700, also known as the Sewist, is a small machine, but it’s packed with features that you usually only find on the larger machines. Be sure to check out the September and October blog posts to learn more about these features. I'm showing you how to make the most of the many decorative stitches on the Brother NQ700 machine, as well as how to use a twin needle to create even more stitches as we make this cute mittens wall quilt or table topper that measures 34" x 34". Here's what you need

Fabrics and notions for the winter mitten quilt

• 4 – 14" squares for the background • 4 – 7" x 11" red rectangles for the main part of the mitts (I used 2 different red fabrics.)

• 4 – 9" x 5" blue rectangles for the cuffs

and tops of the mitts (I used 4 different blue fabrics.)

• small pieces of red and blue fabrics that are at least 7" wide for the border

• assortment of ribbons (I also did some

decorative stitching on wide rick rack and ribbons for added embellishment.)

• 1m (approximately 40" x 40") fabric for backing

• 1 – 38" x 38”-piece of light-weight batting

• HeatnBond Feather Lite light-weight fusible web

• Sulky threads in variegated colors for decorative stitching

• 1 – 8" square of template plastic • 4 – 7" x 11" pieces of light-weight, tearaway stabilizer

• removable fabric marker • size 6.0/100 twin needle Finished winter mitten quilt

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T he very best way to prepare your template from a quilt pattern See the pages that follow for the mitten pattern that’s ready to print. Once you print out the pattern, cut out the paper shapes, leaving about ¼" around each shape.

Pin or baste a 7" x 11" piece of lightweight, tear-away stabilizer on the back of a red rectangle.

Lightly glue each paper shape to the template plastic. Cut out the shapes on the printed lines. The 2 feet on the left are best for decorative stitching

Pin or baste stabilizer on back of fabric.

Glue paper shapes to template plastic

Press 1 piece of light-weight fusible web such as HeatnBond Feather Lite on the back of each 7" x 11" red rectangle. Remove the paper backing. Using a removable fabric marker, trace around the template for the main part of the mitten on the right side of the fabric. Then turn the template over to make a mirror image for the other mitten shape. These lines will be a guide for the placement of the stitches. You can also mark a straight line along the center of the shape for an additional stitching guide.

Put a new top stitch or embroidery needle in your machine. The weight of thread you're using determines the size of needle to use. I used 30wt Sulky thread that comes in many variegated colors with a 90/100 top stitch needle.

Sulky variegated threads for decorative stitching

Choosing the correct foot for decorative stitching is also important. My favorite is the open-toe foot that comes with the Brother NQ700 machine. There are other feet that work well too. The important thing to look for is the groove on the underside of the foot. When using heavier threads, this feature allows the stiches to feed under the foot smoothly and not bunch up.

It’s a good idea to do a few sample stitches before starting your project. There are so many stitches on the Brother NQ700, you won't have a problem finding the ones that are perfect for your project. My own pile of stitch samples is getting larger all the time! Make sure to write the stitch number and the settings you use so you can use that information in future projects.

Stitch samples using a variety of threads and stitches

Remember that you can also change the width and length of the stitches just by pressing the arrow keys. You can also stitch a single stitch or press the back to the beginning key to start at the beginning of any stitch pattern.

Trace around template on red fabric.

Photos by Jean Boyd

Key pad showing useful keys for decorative stitching

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Making the most of decorative stitches for making applique mittens There are over 100 decorative stitches on the Brother NQ700 machine and most of them can be made wider and/or longer to create even more stitches! Once you choose a stitch, you just press the + or – key to adjust the settings. I used Sulky threads in variegated colors on my first piece of red fabric for the main part of the mitten.

Cut out mittens on the drawn lines. Using the plastic templates for the cuff and top of the mitten, trace the shapes on the paper side of the fusible web. Trace 1 shape and 1 reversed shape for each mitten. Cut out the shapes leaving about ¼" all around. Press the shapes onto the blue fabric. Cut out the shapes on the drawn lines. Remove the paper backing from the fusible web. Set the pieces aside until all the mittens are completed.

Finished ribbons

I finished the rest of the fabric with more of the many decorative stitches on the Brother NQ700 machine. I love the way the decorative stitches are all shown on the cover of the machine as well as in the manual that comes with the machine! Key pad showing useful keys for decorative stitching

Trace around the template, using a removable fabric marker and lining up the decorative stitching as desired.

Fabric shapes for the first pair of mittens

For my next pair of mittens, I decided to use some decorative ribbon. Again, using the open-toe foot that comes with the Brother NQ700 machine, I stitched a simple zigzag stitch down the center of the ribbon. Then I sewed it to my red mitten fabric with a straight stitch along the edges.

Decorative stitches on the machine cover

Cut out the mitten shapes the same way you did for the first pair of mittens. Trace around the template.

Here’s my second pair of mittens already to place on the background fabric.

Remove the excess tear-away stabilizer from the back. A small amount of the fusible web will show. This helps to stabilize the fabric when it's placed on the background square. Sewing a decorative stitch on ribbon

Another pair of mittens with decorative stitching Remove excess stabilizer from the back.

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In quilting, using a twin needle IS double the fun [tutorial] All the stitches are shown on the inside of the top cover of the Brother NQ700 and also in the included manual for easy reference. We'll be using the double spool holder and a twin needle to create even more decorative stitches. To install the double spool holder, you must remove the top cover. Full installation instructions come with the double spool holder.

Double spool holder and installation instructions

On the menu screen of the Brother NQ700 machine, you can see the option to turn the twin needle on. Not all stitches work with a twin needle, so if this option is turned on, the machine lets you know if your chosen stitch will work.

Twin needle option is turned on

This is the screen you see if your stitch can’t be used with a twin needle. This is a great feature and will definitely stop you from having broken needles or damaging the machine!

Double spool holder installed and ready to use

Not all stitches work with a double needle

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Twin needles come in a variety of sizes. I used a 6.0/100 size. Again, it’s a good idea to do some test stitches before starting on your project. I planned to stitch on some jumbo rick rack, so that's where I did my sample stitches. Use a slow speed when doing this type of stitching to give you more control.

And here’s my next pair of mittens ready to sew onto the background square.

Another pair of mittens finished! Twin needle is threaded

Here are my finished rick rack strips with twin needle stitching.

When I had 4 pairs of mittens finished, it was time to sew them to the 14" background squares. These squares will be trimmed to 12½" after the mittens are stitched on, but I like to have a little extra fabric all around, just in case something gets a little off center. If you wish, you can trace around a 12½" plastic square to give yourself a guideline for placing the mittens. Arrange 1 pair of mittens on each background square as desired and press in place. Stitch around each shape. I used blanket stitch #33 and adjusted the width and length to 3.0. It's so easy to adjust the stiches on the Brother NQ700 machine – just press the + or – key on the keypad.

Decorative stitching with a twin needle on wide rick rack

Sew the mittens to the background using Blanket stitch #33.

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The Halloween wall quilt and some quick Christmas gifts I explained how to make in September and October 2021when introducing the Brother Innov-is NQ700 machine. Click on the links above to get the full patterns and more information about the NQ700! Finished Halloween quilt

Finished Christmas picture quilt

43⁄4"

Winter mitten quilt templates Actual Size

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What to do with leftover fabric: It’s all in the border Now it’s time to square up each block so it measures 12½".

I made 4 pieced strips that were each about 32" long. Trim the excess fabric so each border measures 6" to 6½" wide.

Now the Winter Mitten project is all ready to quilt and bind.

Sew the strips together to make 4 borders.

4 mitten blocks are finished

Sew on the first border strip across the top. Sew with a partial seam, so the end of the border strip is loose at the right side.

Sew the 4 – 12½" blocks together to make a square that measures 24½". I decided I wanted a border that would be 5" to 6" wide, so I cut up my leftover mitten fabric into strips of varying widths from 1½" to 3" wide and about 6½" long. As you can see in the picture, some of my strips are longer than 6½", but they will all be trimmed to the same width after the strips are sewn together.

After finishing the quilt, you might like to add some ribbon or rick rack ‘strings’ to join each pair of mittens together. Have fun adding these extra embellishments!

Sew on the first border with a partial seam.

Continue sewing on the border strips, counterclockwise, trimming the ends as needed. Complete the partial seam that you used for the first strip to complete the border.

Strips are cut in varying widths for the border Finish sewing the partial seam on the first border.

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Finished Winter Mittens quilt top

I've been using the Brother NQ700 machine for a few months now, and I'm very impressed with the stitch quality, the number of built-in features it has and how easy it is to operate. I've even taken it to a couple of quilt retreats that I attended and it was the perfect portable size. I hope you’ve enjoyed learning about this machine and making this fun winter project. Be sure to check out my previous QUILTsocial blogs from September 2021 and October 2021 to learn even more tips and techniques for using the Brother NQ700 machine.

Jean Boyd

patternsbyjeanboyd.com

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Innovative features that deliver professional quality results! Sew Straight™ Laser Vision Guide* helps you sew straight lines when quilting, piecing, pin tucking and more.

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Deluxe Quilters Bundle Included with the BQ3100: Wide Table, Open Toe Foot for MuVit, Stitch in the Ditch Dual Feed Foot, Dual Feed 1 ⁄4” Guide Foot, Dual Feed Quilting Guide, Couching Dual Feed Foot, and a 2-Spool Thread Stand Quilters Bundle Included with the BQ2500: Wide Table, Open Toe Foot for MuVit, Stitch in the Ditch Dual Feed Foot, and a 2-Spool Thread Stand

Visit an authorized Brother dealer today to find out more! To find an authorized Brother dealer, visit brother.ca/store-locator brother.ca *Feature only available on the BQ3100. Photos are for illustration purposes only. Brother and its logo are trademarks of Brother Industries, Ltd., Japan. All specifications are subject to change without notice. All registered trademarks referenced herein are the property of their respective companies. ©2022 Brother International Corporation (Canada) Ltd. 1, rue Hôtel de Ville, Dollard-des-Ormeaux, Québec, H9B 3H6. 01/2022-MS308

10 key tools for successful free motion quilting and how to use them Robin Bogaert Free motion quilted sandwiches ready to be made into practical potholders

I’m excited to change the mindset of anyone who’s intimidated by free motion quilting, or a beginner who just wants to learn how to free motion quilt effectively. As a seasoned free motion quilting instructor, I promise you that learning to free motion quilt is not only achievable, it’s a very important skill to learn and make all your quilting projects look gorgeous. We’ll discuss essential tricks, supplies, and tools you need to get started, and conquer your fears. I’ll also share a repertoire of quilting designs to practice and choose from. We’ll also discuss the right fabric choices with Fabric Creations and Fabric Palette, Gütermann Threads, UNIQUE Quilting Therm Fleece, Sew Easy Jelly Monster Template, Sew Easy Freezer Paper, Odif 505 Temporary Adhesive for Fabric, SCHMETZ Quilting Needles and the UNIQUE Sewing WashOut Marker. These essential quilting supplies are guaranteed to improve the look and quality of your free motion quilting. To not waste fabric, I suggest we make some seasonal potholders from our practice samples this week as you follow along. I always tell my students to make potholders, mug rugs or coasters from their practice samples. See my practice potholders below. Let’s get started with essential supplies and tools you need to achieve success with free motion quilting. 12 seasonal potholders made from practice samples with beautiful Fabric Creations and Fabric Palette fabric

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These are the items you need for free motion seasonal pot holder practice samples.

materials • free motion foot for your machine

(also called a stipple foot, darning foot, spring action foot and embroidery foot); you must be able to lower your feed dogs (please refer to a machine manual for this)

• 3 yds of background fabric in gray,

white or a light neutral color (so that stitches are visible) for front and back of samples

• 2 yds of heat resistant or thermal batting

• 12 different pieces of seasonal fabric made of 100% cotton (these can be fat quarters or ¼ yard pieces)

• thread (I used 100% cotton, metallic variegated, 100% polyester and Gütermann Sew-All thread)

• templates or shapes to pre-draw quilting guidelines

• freezer paper (optional, but helpful to pre-draw designs)

• temporary adhesive spray for the fabric and batting

• quilting Needles (I used 75/11, and 90/14 for metallic threads)

• wash-out marker for pre-drawing designs on fabric

• paper and pen or pencil to draw

designs before stitching (essential)

• ruler • Velcro (hook and loop) for the back of the recipe pocket (optional)

• recipe card with favorite recipe

written on it to put in the pocket (12 copies optional)

Once you gather all supplies, it’s time to cut some fabric practice samples, thermal batting, binding, pocket, and loop tab fabric for the potholders. Note: I sewed pockets on the back of the potholders so that if I give away my samples as gifts, I can place a recipe card or some candy in the pocket. This is of course an optional step.

Cutting instructions • Cut 24 pieces of white, gray, or

neutral light fabric 12” x 12”; 12 pieces for the front (practice area) and 12 for the back.

Supplies needed to practice free motion quilting

• Cut 12 pieces of heat resistant batting 12” x 12”.

• Cut 12 - 2½” x 44” pieces of binding

fabric from the seasonal fabric (you need to piece this from your fat quarter (FQ) or ¼ yard pieces. Refer to to this free binding tutorial download here.

• Cut 12 pieces of fabric 10” x 10”

seasonal fabric for the pocket on the back.

• Cut 12 pieces of Velcro 1” x 1” (loop and hook pieces).

• Cut 12 pieces of fabric 2” x 6” for loop tab.

This Fabric Creations and Fabric Palette fabric was used for this week’s practice sample potholders.

Note: Cutting instructions are for 12 practice samples. Join me as I share tips for success and 3 beginner free motion designs to draw and quilt. These tips and designs will ensure that you start your free motion pathway to success.

• candy of choice (chocolate

preferred!!!) to put in the pocket (optional)

Gorgeous Fabric Creations and Fabric Palette cotton along with UNIQUE Quilting Therm Fleece and Velcro cut out and ready for practice samples

Photos by Robin Bogaert

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22+ essential TIPS

for free motion quilting success I’m sharing tips for free motion quilting success, and demonstrating 3 fill designs to get you started. It’s so exciting! We’ll be working with Fabric Creations Cotton - Textured Grey, UNIQUE Quilting Therm Fleece, Gütermann Thread, Odif 505 Temporary Spray Adhesive and SCHMETZ Quilting Needles. Important Please read all my tips for success and implement them. I’m confident they’ll improve your free motion quilting, and you’ll come to love your quilts.

22 TIPS for success 1. The most important tip is to develop a can-do 2. Find as much table surface area as you can for quilting; for example, extension tables to attach to your machine throat area and a table surface devoid of clutter. 3. Make sure to have a free motion foot on your machine. 4. Put your feed dogs down on your machine (read your machine manual to find out how to do this). 5. If there is a needle down position on the machine, set it in needle down so that when the machine stops, the placement of the needle does not move. 6. Move your fabric with needle down if you start to feel your hand position is awkward. 7. Match thread colors and weight in both top threading and bobbin.

Drawings for classic stippling, e’s and o’s and wavy lines. Drawings are essential to train the brain prior to free motion quilting on fabric.

8. You may have to adjust your upper thread tension and/or use a vertical spool pin or thread stand to avoid tension issues and thread breakage. 9. Set your tension initially at the manufacturer’s suggested auto setting and adjust as necessary.

[beginners] 10. Hide your mistakes with busy fabric prints for the backing of your quilts when starting out. 11. Spray baste your quilts; it’s easier and quicker than pin basting or hand basting. 12. Wear quilting gloves or finger grips to be able to grip your fabric and avoid hand and shoulder strain. 13. Practice on scraps and small projects first, like potholders, coasters, and mug rugs. 14. Choose simple quilting designs to start with. 15. Come up with a quilting plan before quilting. 16. Draw out your designs to audition them on paper first; this helps your brain to visualize the design and with hand coordination. 17. Fill in the background areas with lots of texture. Use stencils and templates if necessary to assist in the drawing of a design. 18. Use a removable marker to mark designs. 19. When starting to quilt, always bring up the bobbin thread from the back of the quilt to the top so that there is no thread nest on the back of the quilt. Complete a few (3) stitches in place to secure, then cut the bobbin thread away. 20. If possible, set the machine speed at the middle setting to be able to have some control over the stitching, and move your hands on your quilt sandwich slowly. 21. Educate yourself, take classes, read, and watch tutorials. 22. Practice, practice, practice!

Bobbin thread is the same as in the top thread with Gütermann Sew-All Thread being used from the Classic Holiday Collection; ready to get stippling.

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Machine set up with feed dogs down, free motion quilting foot and SCHMETZ Quilting 75/11 Needle inserted, threaded with white Gütermann Thread Sew-All and ready to get started.

Free motion quilting designs These 3 free motion quilting designs are your pathway to success and include classic stippling, e’s and o’s, and wavy lines. Draw them out on paper first to practice.

About thread

• Spray baste three layers together as

shown; very light spraying is all that’s needed to keep the top layer of fabric adhered to the fleece and the fleece adhered to the bottom fabric. Odif 505 Temporary Adhesives spray is fantastic as you can reposition your fabric; it’s invisible, light and stops your fabric and batting from shifting.

Use any thread preferred if it works with your machine. Gütermann Thread is versatile as it is strong, comes in many colors, thicknesses and types and works fantastic with my machine. A word of caution though, as with any thread, upper thread tension may need to be adjusted, particularly with metallic threads or decorative threads, and you may need to change the machine needle size.

How to free motion quilt • Sandwich the quilt sample by placing one 12” square of fabric on top of the UNIQUE Quilting Therm Fleece, shiny side facing the wrong side of the top fabric (therm fleece is substituting as the batting as it would be used for a quilt). Place the backing fabric under the Therm Fleece with the right side facing down.

Stipple quilting design drawn on paper to prepare for stipple quilting on a practice sample

• Once the drawing is complete, start

Spray basting with Odif 505 Temporary Adhesive

• Thread the machine, insert a free

motion foot and lower the feed dogs (this is essential).

• Draw out the designs ahead of time on paper.

Note: If you wish to substitute batting, I recommend 80/20 (80% cotton, 20% polyester, for loft and durability). We are using Therm Fleece as these samples are being made into pot holders and it has fantastic heat resistance for pot holders, oven mitts and mug rugs.

on a quilt sandwich by bringing up the bobbin thread and stitching 3 stitches in place to secure, then cut the bobbin thread. Refer to the stipple drawing and stitch out a stipple. Make sure to set your machine speed at medium, with your hands gently moving the quilt sandwich as you go.

Important Think of the needle as a pencil and draw the stippling onto the quilt sandwich. There are no feed dogs, so the machine operator controls the movement and stitch length. Once this is practiced many times, there’ll be a rhythm and the stitches will become very consistent. It’s all about practice.

Starting to draw the stipple design

Quilt sample sandwiched together with right sides of the fabric facing out

When I draw stippling, a classic, beginner design for quilting, I think of puzzle pieces and draw it out on paper ahead of time. It’s a continuous puzzle piece design. Start wherever you want to on the paper or quilt and the end goal is to fill in the square of paper or quilt sandwich. This prepares the brain for the drawing and free motion quilting as it will be done on fabric, and is an important step.

Bringing the bobbin thread up to the top of the quilt sandwich avoids thread nests on the back of the quilt

Free motion quilted stipples should look like this approximately

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Another design is e’s and o’s. This design also looks great as strands of Christmas lights.

The third design for today is wavy lines. When I first started to quilt, wavy lines were my signature quilt design because I could achieve these easily. As a beginner quilter, I found it difficult to quilt a straight line and therefore I used wavy lines. Wavy lines look great on most areas as a fill stitch. Draw lines vertically, horizontally, and diagonally. Cross over the lines in any way with a preferred uniformity and density.

Note: I used a UNIQUE Sewing Washout Marker (Blue) and a ruler to draw the quadrants on the quilting sample as shown. It washes out immediately with a spritz of warm water. It’s an amazing removable blue marker.

Completed e’s and o’s drawing ready to sew out on a practice sample Drawing of quadrants on wavy lines sample completed with UNIQUE Sewing Wash-out Marker, blue. An excellent tool to mark quilts and removes easily with a spritz of water.

Wavy lines drawing completed before attempting to quilt it out

How to start drawing e’s and o’s - they can be drawn in a straight line or all over the page. Wavy designs quilt sample completed with Gütermann Cotton 50wt Thread in Teal

Drawing wavy lines in preparation for free motion quilting on fabric

The finished e’s and o’s practice sample, using Gütermann 50wt Sew-All Thread in royal blue from the Classic Holiday Collection Stippling, e’s and o’s and wavy lines on practice samples, made into potholders

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How to free motion spirals on your quilt: 3 dynamic designs

I’m sharing how to do some spiral designs including continuous spirals, spiral flowers, and ocean waves. I’m also working with some luscious Gütermann Metallic Thread and continuing with the UNIQUE Quilting Therm Fleece and very pretty Fabric Creations cotton fabric. Spirals are a fun whimsical, somewhat modern design that adds some lovely texture to quilts. Let’s get started with how to draw them on paper, and then apply the drawing to a quilt sandwich.

As you can see from the drawing above, start with a basic spiral by drawing a tail that rounds into the center point counter clockwise, and then echo that center point clockwise to come out of the center and move on to another tail that rounds into another spiral (spiral 2) and continue. Complete the entire page to train the brain for quilting on an actual practice sample (recommended). See my page below and spiral drawing number by number. Close-up of the gorgeous shiny Gütermann Metallic Thread making spiral designs look so pretty

Note: The size of the spirals doesn’t have to be consistent; this is a personal choice as the sewist is the artist. Design 2 Spiral flowers Spirals can morph into flower designs and are a very natural way to get floral designs started. In the case of a rose or cabbage rose, flowers appear to have a spiral center so it’s only natural to use a spiral to make a flower. See the progression of the next photos. Spiral designs to practice on paper before stitching out on practice quilt sandwiches

Design 1 Continuous spirals

Completed page of spiral designs number by number to show how a continuous spiral is drawn out

The continuous spiral is a basic design that you’ll quickly get the hang of with a bit of practice and is great for beginners. The following images show you how to get started.

Start with a simple center spiral design to make the beginning of a flower

Continuous spiral design drawn on paper

Completed continuous spiral practice sample with Gütermann Metallic Thread

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The cabbage rose design is a great design also to fill in a single area; for example, if you have a solid fabric that needs a design.

Design 3 Ocean waves Ocean waves are a great design to show movement, I often use it with landscape quilts to show water and waves and is a dynamic design. It’s relatively easy to draw as it is based on a cursive handwriting ‘C’. See photo below. To execute ocean waves on the practice quilt, draw a tail from the left, take the lign up to the right into a cursive ‘C’, curl towards the center and back down and around into another wave or cursive ‘C’. You’ll need to do this by starting and stopping your line. It’s also a great border design.

Wrap the spiral into the side of it to get ready to draw petals attached to the spiral

Single cabbage rose design done on solid fabric is a great filler design all started with a spiral

The flower completed with petals added continuously to the outside of the spiral design

Pretty in pink spiral flower designs with Gütermann Cotton Thread and UNIQUE Sewing Wash-out Marker used to mark quadrants

Samples of the basic flower design, continuous flowers, and cabbage rose design made by continuously building on the petals Spiral designs on free motion practice samples and made into potholders

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Ocean waves drawn like a continuous cursive ‘C’ from left to right

Boost your free motion quilting skills with these 3 nature-inspired designs

I want to discuss organic looking leaves, feathers, and plumes to add some very beautiful texture to quilts. I continue to work with Gütermann Sew-All Threads, Metallic Threads and Cotton Threads as well as Fabric Creations – Grey Textured fabric, and of course the very versatile UNIQUE Sewing Wash-out Marker. I can’t emphasize enough how important it is to draw the designs ahead of time and practice the brain to get ready for FMQ. Below are the drawings I’ll be discussing today: FMQ continuous leaves, leaf borders, feathers and combining feathers, swirls, leaves and plumes.

Full continuous leaf design; follow the numbers to see how the leaves are drawn out

Leaf border designs and feather designs

As you can see, the stem is drawn continuously as you move to the next leaf. Follow the numbers to design the leaf.

Continuous leaf practice sample with Gütermann Cotton Thread in green, an organic design that looks great in green thread! Pre-drawing leaves, leaf borders, feathers, combining leaves, feathers, plumes and swirl designs to get ready for FMQ

Design 1 Continuous leaves

Design 2 Borders The leaf borders and feathers are drawn out as shown below.

The continuous leaf design is drawn out as shown below.

How to draw the continuous leaf design before quilting it

How to draw the leaf border design

Continuing to draw the leaf border design

With the feather borders, draw the vein through the middle, first starting at the top moving downwards. When you reach the bottom, draw the first thumb almost like half a heart, and then move your way up the center vein.

Drawing a feather border design

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Draw the other side of the feather continuously from the top down as shown.

Design 3 Combining leaves, feathers, plumes and swirls Swirls are really just an elongated leaf without veins. Below is the drawing practice.

This design is pretty self-explanatory if you’ve practiced the feathers. As shown, the plumes are elongated leaves in shape, and then swirls are added in between randomly. Keep reading I’ll discuss how templates and Sew Easy Freezer Paper can help with quilt marking and the design process. I’ll also share my process for making these quilt practice samples into easy, practical potholders, ready for gift giving.

Feather design completed

The straight feather is done in the exact same manner except using a straight center vein, and I tried to omit the gaps between the feathers (a personal choice)

Drawing practice for leaf, feathers and plumes

Feathers, leaves, plumes combined with swirls and stitched with black Gütermann thread

How to draw feathers and spirals

Finished leaf and feather FMQ design with black Gütermann thread Completed designs as potholders

Finishing the design

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2 great template sets

you need for impressive free motion quilting Now we are going to use templates and freezer paper to assist with the drawing process using the Sew Easy Jelly Monster Template and the Sew Easy 9pc Circle Template Set, along with Sew Easy Freezer Paper. These tools will make your sewing quilting projects so much easier.

These templates are great because they’re made in such a bright color that is easy to see, they’re see-through and have vertical, horizontal, and 45-degree lines marked on them making them great for centering. The number of sizes available also makes them great for applique.

The finished orange peel design completed with Gütermann Sew-all Thread in Burgundy

The Sew Easy 9pc Circle Template Set Using the 2½” circle template to make an orange peel design for free motion quilting

These circle templates ranging in size from 1” to 5” are also useful for drawing out appliques and background quilting designs…the possibilities are endless.

In the Sew Easy 9pc Circle Template Set, templates range in size from 1” to 5”.

I’ll start with the circle templates. I used the 2½” circle from the 9 templates (a great value) to design the ‘Orange Peel’ quilting pattern. I drew a 2” grid within a 10” square as shown. I then made sure the edge of the template met the intersections of the grid and used the template to mark my orange peel sections.

Quilting the orange peel design using a serpentine direction to make the design continuous

Another idea for using the Sew Easy 9 piece Circle Template Set - Applique and Quilting Designs

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The Sew Easy Jelly Monster Template is useful to draw out shapes and cut from strips of fabric folded in half, or 2½” jelly roll strips sewn together. Again it’s made in the pink clear durable acrylic with clear markings for 2 sizes of circles, 2 sizes of hexagons, a diamond, a square and 2 sizes of triangles. See the package instructions below. Designing a feather shape within a square

Square shape is quilted with Gütermann Metallic Thread

Jelly Monster Template - a very useful template to draw shapes for free motion quilting as well as for cutting fabric applications

Back of package and instructions for the Jelly Monster Template - great for cutting jelly rolls and for use as a drawing tool for free motion quilting

Designing a feather shape within a square

I used the Jelly Monster Template today to draw triangle, square and hexagon shapes. A template like this has so many uses and limitless possibilities. I drew out a square with it, as shown.

Drawing a triangle shape with the Sew Easy Jelly Monster Template Designing a feather shape within a square - top is complete

Drawing the top of the square with the Jelly Monster Template

Designing a feather shape within a square bottom is complete Drawing the bottom of the square with the Jelly Monster Template

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Place ½” and 1” marks with a UNIQUE Sewing Blue Wash-out Marker to use as guidelines for quilting

Sew Easy Jelly Monster Template, SCHMETZ Quilting Needles, Gütermann Thread and UNIQUE Sewing Wash-out marker make great free motion quilting possible

Quilting the paradiox design

Design marked onto freezer paper and ironed to the right side of fabric

Ready for an extreme challenge? Try drawing a hexagon shape with the Jelly Monster Template to create a paradox design by marking ¼” all around the hexagon with a UNIQUE Sewing Wash-out Marker, as shown. Then sew from ¼” mark to ¼” mark with a controlled, slow and straight free motion quilting line, as shown. Design quilted onto the freezer paper The Paradox, Challenge Design quilted with Gütermann Sew-all Thread in Teal

Drawing out a hexagon with the Jelly Monster Template

Sew Easy Freezer Paper, great for appliques and marking for free motion quilting

Freezer paper can assist with all kinds of quilting projects including applique, for tracing designs and shapes. I use it frequently to draw out a quilting design on the matte side ahead of time, and place it directly on a quilt. I then iron it to the quilt (wax side) to the fabric for temporary adhesion, and then sew right on top of the design. It eliminates the step of transferring the design to fabric, saving time. These steps are shown next.

Peeling off the freezer paper

Freezer paper design completed

Adding ¼” increments to sew a line from ¼” to ¼” on the hexagon

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How to make potholders from free motion quilting practice samples 1. Square your practice sample down to 10” x 10”. 2. Fold the pre-cut 10” x 10” fabric in half, wrong sides together. 3. Place a piece of Velcro hook towards the folded side centered by measuring 4½” up from the raw left side and bottom, as shown. Pin the Velcro in place and sew. Measuring the pocket for the Velcro

4. Measure up the same way on the backside of the quilted sample, and place the loop of the Velcro. Pin and sew, as shown. 5. Matching Velcro and raw edges, sew the pocket piece to the back of the quilted practice sample with a 1⁄8” seam allowance along the sides and bottom.

Adding a recipe and candy to the potholder pocket

6. Bind as desired. For help with binding, check out this free quilt binding tutorial. 7. To add a hanging tab, cut a 2” x 6” piece of corresponding fabric and fold it in half lengthwise wrong sides together. Sew along the length, turn it to the right side, then press and sew it to the left corner backside of the potholder. Measuring the Velcro for the quilt practice sample

8. Add a recipe or candy to the back pocket (optional). I hope you enjoyed this tutorial on free motion quilting and that you learned and can use these tips and ideas as a pathway to successful free motion quilting!

Front of potholders

Lining up the Velcro and raw edges ready for basting

Robin Bogaert Loop tab added to the back of the potholder

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Back of potholder shows off the seasonally beautiful Fabric Creations and Fabric Palette Fabric

www.quiltingintheloft.com

A QUILTER’S DREAM COME TRUE! Explore these wonderful products at your local quilting store!

How to choose the right stabilizer for your machine embroidery project Elaine Theriault

Husqvarna Viking Designer Ruby 90

Hello everyone, and welcome to an exciting posts of embroidery and sewing with the Husqvarna Viking Designer Ruby 90. Check out some of my earlier QUILTsocial posts about the great features and benefits of the Designer Ruby 90. You'll want to appreciate the full potential of this fantastic sewing and embroidery machine.

The three mySewnet apps

Once I’ve downloaded the JoyOS Advisor app, I can open it to find this menu. The item we're exploring is the Stabilizer Guide.

Opening the Stabilizer Guide provides me with the menu of the four main categories of INSPIRA stabilizer.

We'll be looking at more built-in embroidery designs, checking out INSPIRA stabilizers and how and when to use them, plus some other great projects. The Designer Ruby 90 produces outstanding quality embroidery stitches; however, it needs a bit of input to make the final project look great. There are four main categories of INSPIRA stabilizers, and within each category you'll find several types; all of them serve a specific purpose. That means you need to consider the design and the fabric, and then select the appropriate stabilizer.

Four main categories of INSPIRA stabilizers

Did you know that if you have a free mySewnet account, you can get a lot of information on INSPIRA stabilizers right on an app on your smartphone? If you don’t have an account yet, go to mySewnet.com and sign up for your free account today! Then download the app JoyOS Advisor from the place you download your apps, and you’re all set.

The three mySewnet apps

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Photos by Elaine Theriault

Drilling further into the information on the app, I open the menu for the TearA-Way stabilizers, and I find SEVEN types of INSPIRA Tear-A-Way stabilizers. Like all smartphone apps, it's easy to scroll up and down to see all the options.

Opening up one of the options gives me a description of the stabilizer, how to use it, and how to remove it once the embroidery is complete.

That’s super handy, and the best part? It's free. Be sure to sign up for your mySewnet account to access the information in these great apps! Once you have your account, browse through the Stabilizer Guide to better understand which products are suitable for your needs. Remember, you can use different combinations to achieve the same result. Then, pop by your Husqvarna Viking dealer to get a roll of the ones you'll use more frequently. The Designer Ruby 90 is a Wi-Fienabled sewing and embroidery machine. That means that after I connect it to the internet in my house, I can log into my free mySewnet account right on the Designer Ruby 90. I can now transfer embroidery files, created in the QuickDesign app, the mySewnet embroidery software, or the mySewnet embroidery library. I can also use the mySewnet apps to monitor my embroidery stitch out and help with the positioning of embroidery designs. I see an exciting future in the sewing industry where all of our devices will communicate with each other!

Options for Tear-A-Way stabilizers on the mySewnet app

Detailed information for the INSPIRA Fuse N' Tear stabilizer

But let's get back to the fundamentals and talk about which stabilizer to use for my project today. I found the perfect embroidery design among the signature embroidery designs in the Designer Ruby 90. Before that, though, let's get our stabilizer, fabric, and embroidery hoop ready. I'm using the Designer Splendid Square Hoop (120mm x 120mm), the smallest of the three machine embroidery hoops that come with the Designer Ruby 90. There's no better way to learn than by doing. I thought I'd start by seeing what happens when I don't use any stabilizer at all. Even if I know the result, it's great to have a visual, so you can better appreciate why stabilizers are essential to machine embroidery.

A roll of INSPIRA Fuse N' Tear stabilizer, the Designer Splendid Square Hoop (120mm x 120mm), and cotton fabric

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Be careful when you hoop your fabric. You want the fabric to be taut but not distorted. Also, don't make the fabric drum tight in the hoop, which is a common error. If the fabric is too tight, you’re pulling the fibers out of shape, and once the fabric relaxes when it's out of the hoop, it'll pucker. So taut in the hoop, but not distorted.

Oh boy, I've barely started, and I can see that we're having some significant issues with this design and no stabilizer. What do you think?

The stitches immediately pull up the unstabilized fabric

I decided to stitch the first color completely to have a great example to show you. As you can see, this is NOT a good example of successful machine embroidery, but it sure shows you what happens with no stabilizer.

I should mention that all the information in the JoyOS Advisor that you see on the app on your smartphone is also available directly in the Designer Ruby INSPIRA Fuse N' Tear 90, as the JoyOS stabilizer temporarily adhered to the wrong Advisor is built into side of my fabric the Designer Ruby 90. That's super handy! And remember, we're only looking at the Stabilizer Guide; there is a lot more information in the JoyOS Advisor. Now that I have two layers to put into the hoop, I have to loosen the screw a wee bit. You want to keep the fabric smooth in the corner where the Quick Release is. While it looks bunched up from the back, it's nice and flat on the front, and that's what counts. It's easy to get a bit of bias stretch in this corner, so be careful.

The fabric is taut in the hoop but not distorted

See how the fabric is not flat in this photo? It's not pulled evenly around the edges of the hoop, and if I were to embroider on this, my end embroidery wouldn't lie flat. I need to resolve this before I start to embroider!

What happens when you do not use a stabilizer for machine embroidery

The fabric is not correctly hooped

I selected a beautiful pine cone motif from the signature collection of the Designer Ruby 90. It's a perfect design to test stabilizers as there are some long stitches and some dense areas!

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OK, let's do that again as it was pretty bad. This time, we're using one layer of stabilizer. But which one? As I mentioned earlier, there are several options I can select. My fabric is loosely woven, and I don't need the stabilizer to stay in the items when it's finished. After perusing the Tear-A-Way options in the JoyOS Advisor, I settled on INSPIRA Fuse N' Tear. Fuse N' Tear is a product that gets temporarily adhered with the iron to the wrong side of the fabric and provides excellent stability for loosely woven fabrics.

Loosen the tension on the embroidery hoop to accommodate the layer of stabilizer

And there’s my INSPIRA Fuse N' Tear hooped with my fabric. The stabilizer has temporarily adhered to the wrong side of my fabric, which will The fabric and the provide a lot of stabilizer in the stability, preventing embroidery hoop the fabric from shifting during the embroidery process.

Now we're back to the Designer Ruby 90, where I'll stitch out the same motif. As I mentioned, this design is a perfect one to test the stabilizers as there are long stitches in The layer of INSPIRA the pine needles, and Fuse N' Tear supports the pine cone, which the long machine embroidery stitches you'll see shortly, is dense! Oh boy! I can immediately see a significant difference. Look at those long stitches, the INSPIRA Fuse N' Tear supports them well, and there's no puckering like before when there was no stabilizer.

The underlay stitches on the pinecone

Here's a close-up of those finished stitches. See how perfectly flat they are with zero puckers! Just the way you want it to appear.

I'm stitching the pine cone design one more time using two layers of stabilizers. I adhered a layer of Fuse N' Tear to the back of the fabric Add a layer of like I did before. As I INSPIRA Tear-A-Way put the embroidery stabilizer beneath the hoop back on the embroidery hoop Designer Ruby 90, I inserted a piece of INSPIRA Tear-A-Way stabilizer beneath the embroidery hoop to provide extra support for those long stitches and the dense fill pattern. I don't think I needed it, but I wanted to see if there would be a difference. It's perfect! No puckering!

Here's the first color using one layer of the INSPIRA Fuse N' Tear stabilizer. I'm super happy with those results. The one layer of Fuse N' Tear very nicely handled the long stitches, but what happens when we do the dense stitches of the pinecone?

Zero puckers with the long machine embroidery stitches

Here's the final design, and even with the long stitches and the dense fill stitches, the design came out beautifully. If you look closely, you'll see a bit of pulling in the bottom right corner. The pulling likely results from the direction of the stitches in that area falling on the bias grain. It’ll disappear after pressing. Watch when hooping as you push the inner hoop into place, that you don't stretch that last corner. But let's keep on with our experiment. The first color of the machine embroidery design using one layer of INSPIRA Fuse N' Tear stabilizer

Here's another thing to note – see the underlay stitches in the pinecone (on the left side)? Without the underlay, the dense stitches could pucker the background, even with the stabilizer. The underlay stitches help to stabilize the embroidery design and are a sign of a well-digitized design.

The pinecone design

So, learning about stabilizers and producing perfect results requires several things. It helps if you have a great sewing and embroidery machine like the Husqvarna Viking Designer Ruby 90. Choose a well-digitized design that has several types of stitches in it. Play with different combinations of stabilizers. There's never just one option, so be sure to read up about the INSPIRA line of stabilizers in the JoyOS Advisor, either on the app for your smartphone or on the Designer Ruby 90. Did you make a mistake? There's nothing wrong with playing and experimenting. Better to make a mistake when you're learning and experimenting than when working on an actual project.

The completed pinecone

Be sure to pop into your local Husqvarna Viking dealer and check out the Husqvarna Viking Designer Ruby 90 sewing and embroidery machine. There's nothing like a good test drive to check the fantastic capabilities!

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INSPIRA water-soluble stabilizers

for superb machine embroidery results Do you need information on the INSPIRA water-soluble stabilizers? Be sure to check out the Stabilizer Guide in the JoyOS Advisor. You can find it right on the Welcome Screen (Knowledge Center) when you turn on the Designer Ruby 90, or you'll find it in the app on your smart device.

I select Free Standing Designs – Thread Only. This time, I get a menu filled with free-standing embroidery designs made only with thread. These are designs that are included in the Designer Ruby 90! How cool is that? And wasn't that a whole lot easier than searching in a book or through the menus?

I selected a small motif for my experiment.

I'm looking for a specific type of embroidery design. While I could browse the menus, there's a much faster way to find a design for a particular embroidery technique. On the Welcome Screen, under JoyOS Advisor, select Embroidery.

A small embroidery design on the Embroidery Edit screen

The menu of free-standing embroidery designs – thread only

Notice that a tutorial appears on the bottom of the screen? I love having options! I can move the tutorial to the sides, top and bottom, or have it full screen! The JoyOS Advisor on the Welcome Screen

A list of different embroidery techniques appears on the screen. I choose Free Standing Embroidery, and within the free-standing embroidery section, I find three techniques. WOW – that's super impressive to see all that information built into the Designer Ruby 90, and I have it on my smartphone as well.

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I moved the tutorial to the top of the screen to access the edit tools along the bottom. The Designer Ruby 90 selected the smallest available hoop size for the motif - the Small Square Hoop The tutorial moved to the (80mm x 80mm). top of the screen to access The stitch count the edit tools is 3,246, so the design is pretty small. Did you know that you can enter all the hoop sizes you own into the Designer Ruby 90? That way, the embroidery machine chooses the most appropriate hoop size based on what you own. This feature is in the Default Embroidery Settings in the Settings menu.

Now it's time to move to Embroidery Stitch Out. You can see on the screen that the time to complete the motif is 4 minutes. Perfect for experimenting.

I'm doing a small design, so maybe I can use that filmy-looking one? Let's see what happens. Now I know what’ll happen, but as I said yesterday, an excellent visual is sometimes what we need to remember which product to choose for each job.

Ruby 90. No sense in making a mess when we know the incorrect stabilizer is in the hoop. As I mentioned, I knew this would happen, but I've never taken the time to experiment to see how quickly the stabilizer disappears. It didn't take long!

The filmy water-soluble stabilizer is completely gone from the center

The INSPIRA Water Works Soluble Film stabilizer in the hoop The embroidery motif in Embroidery Stitch Out mode

Let's chat about the INSPIRA watersoluble stabilizers. There are two kinds – one that looks like a thin film of plastic, and the other reminds me of fabric. You'll find more details about each type in the Stabilizer Guide. Remember, there’s more than one type of watersoluble stabilizer, so be sure to get the correct one for the job.

This stabilizer looks so unstable! As I start to stitch, I see the film is starting to pucker. Now the stabilizer will get washed away, so is that a big deal? Oh yes. Just wait for it!

Here's a view of the embroidery design in the hoop. See how it all pulled and puckered. Not only do we not have a stabilizer to support the remaining stitches, but the decorative stitches used to finish off the design will likely not sit in the appropriate place due to all the pulling and shifting of the base stitches. In other words, it's great to experiment, but we must learn – the filmy watersoluble stabilizers are not suitable for stand-alone designs.

The INSPIRA Water Works Soluble Film stabilizer is puckering

Oh – the stabilizer in the center of the motif has completely disappeared with the stitching. Remember, there are only 3,256 stitches in this design, so there are not many, but enough to cut through the water-soluble stabilizer.

Two different types of water-soluble stabilizer

The puckers result from using the incorrect stabilizer

What does that mean? There’s nothing to support the stitches around the center of this design. All those puckers also mean that the design will get distorted, and the final decorative stitches will not end up where they are supposed to be. Let's say that it'll be a mess. As soon as the center was gone, I stopped the Designer

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This time, I’m using the INSPIRA Aqua Magic water-soluble stabilizer, which resembles a non-woven fabric.

And here's the final embroidery design. The stabilizer is still intact around all edges of the design to give it stability. There was no distortion or pulling of the stabilizer that could distort the placement of the final stitches. It looks great.

What to do with the excess watersoluble stabilizer? I keep it, and it can be dissolved in water to provide a fabric stiffener for your free-standing lace projects or other craft items. So, where should we use that transparent water soluable stabilizer? It's a topper, which means it sits on top of our fabric to prevent the embroidery stitches from disappearing into a napped fabric. There are two toppers; one is a bit thicker than the other, so be sure that you use the correct one depending on the nap of your fabric. The Stabilizer Guide provides more details. Here's an example to show you what I mean. I had some fleece squares, and I thought I'd experiment with putting my initials on them. I found some lovely decorative letters in the mySewnet library, and I saved the two letters in the mySewnet cloud. I opened the two files in the mySewnet embroidery software and created a file which I then sent via the mySewnet cloud to the Designer Ruby 90. I love it! No cables, no USB.

INSPIRA Aqua Magic stabilizer is hooped in the 80mm x 80mm embroidery hoop

I’m using the same embroidery design. We can already see from the beginning that this water-soluble stabilizer provides enough support to prevent distortion, and it won't get cut away.

The completed stand-alone embroidery motif using a water-soluble stabilizer

The last step is to cut the excess stabilizer away and rinse the bits that remain in the motif.

I floated the fleece in the Small Metal Hoop (100mm x 100mm) because all I had was a 6" square of fleece. I used an INSPIRA Cut-A-Way stabilizer as the base. More on that type of stabilizer on the next post.

Stitching the stand-alone embroidery motif on water-soluble stabilizer

The embroidery stitches are sinking into the nap of the fleece

The finished free standing embroidery design removed from the excess water-soluble stabilizer

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Even though we don't think of fleece as having a deep pile, it does, especially when it comes to embroidery, so choose a large design to show on the fleece. Here's the finished design. Although it's passable, I can see the red fleece popping through the center of the letters. Hmmm – I think I can do better than that.

Here's the completed design. Remember No more than eight magnets on any of the metal hoops. I sure love those metal hoops for small pieces of fabric or anything that won't easily fit in a traditional two-part hoop. The Small Metal Hoop (100mm by 100mm) is the smallest of three metal hoops available.

Even with the little bits of water-soluble stabilizer trapped in the threads, the finished design looks way better than the one done without the topper! All that's left to do is to rinse those bits away. I don't know about you, but I want to grab all my fleece jackets and embellish them with this! That is so cool!! And there you have our stabilizer experiment for today. Thanks to the Husqvarna Viking Designer Ruby 90, it was easy to find designs using the JoyOS Advisor or transfer the files from the mySewnet library to the mySewnet embroidery software to the Designer Ruby 90. It's all seamless and so easy! Remember, you need a Wi-Fi-enabled embroidery machine and a mySewnet account! And don't forget how important it is to choose the right stabilizer for the job and your fabric!

The red fleece is visible through the black stitches

I used the same small metal hoop and stabilizer. But this time, I added the INSPIRA Water Works Soluble Film stabilizer to the top of the fleece. Even as the design starts to stitch, I can see the embroidery design more readily as the film prevents the stitches from sinking into the nap.

The water soluable topper prevents the embroidery stitches from sinking into the nap

The completed design using INSPIRA Water Works Soluble Film

Notice how the water-soluble film didn't detach from the design like it did when it was the only stabilizer I used. It's easy to tear the excess away.

Removing the excess water soluable stabilizer

Successful embroidery on fleece!

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In machine embroidery: knit fabric stays put with the right stabilizers Isn't it super exciting to learn something every day? Whether it's learning about the mySewnet Ecosystem, embroidery techniques, or stabilizers, there's so much exciting stuff going on in the sewing and embroidery world. There's no end to learning new things with the Husqvarna Viking Designer Ruby 90. I think I've mentioned several times that I keep a pile of fabrics, garments, or other objects that I've collected that I use to experiment with embroidery techniques. So there's never a lack of having something to embroider. INSPIRAtion and designs are available from so many places! The problem is choosing the items and deciding what embroidery design to stitch on them. One of the advantages of an embroidery machine is you can personalize anything. You may want to personalize your quilts by embroidering the recipient's name on the quilt, embroidering the block names on sashings, or making a block from a machine embroidery design. Or how about personalizing an article of clothing? There's no limit to your creativity with the embroidery tools we have available to use, especially if you want to play with the mySewnet Embroidery Software. I'm working with different kinds of stabilizers. The more you know about the supplies and how they work, the easier it'll be to select the correct product for the job at hand, and nothing will be offlimits. So far, we've had a look at Tear-AWay stabilizers, as well as water soluble stabilizers. Now, it's all about Cut-A-Way.

There's no time like the present to experiment with knit fabrics. My experience with machine embroidery on knits is limited, so I found an old cardigan that is ideal for embroidering a monogram. I created the monogram using letters that I found in the mySewnet Library. Then I sent them to the mySewnet Embroidery Software and finally to the Designer Ruby 90. That entire process happened through the mySewnet Cloud – no USBs required.

Now that I have the placement right, I'm using the template to mark some registration lines to hoop the sweater properly. I

I printed out a template using the mySewnet Embroidery Software to help me with the placement of the motif on the sweater. When placing your motif, you must be careful as you don't want the monogram sitting too low. I laid out the sweater and pinned the template in place. After trying it on, I realized it was right where I didn't want it to be. So I raised the template, and it's much better. If possible, I’ll try the garment on with the template pinned in place. I'm a visual person, and I want to see where it's going! Sometimes, we think we are right, and do the embroidery only to be disappointed with the placement. So check it several times to be sure. There are embroidery placement charts that you can find online, but I'm good at using my judgment and eye.

Using the paper template to place registration lines on the garment

used the Husqvarna Viking Small Metal Hoop so I wouldn't have to hoop the knit in a traditional hoop. I love that metal hoop and find that it's becoming my go-to hoop for unusual things. I used the INSPIRA Cut-A-Way stabilizer. Since the Cut-A-Way is not fusible, I used Odif 505 emporary spray adhesive to stick the stabilizer to the back of the sweater and then hooped the sweater and the stabilizer together.

Cut-A-Way stabilizers are great when working with knits. Knits are stretchy, and we certainly do not want them stretching out of shape because the machine embroidery distorted it.

The paper template for the monogram on the sweater INSPIRA Cut-A-Way stabilizer

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Because I'm working with a knit, I also used the INSPIRA Water Works Film Stabilizer on the top to prevent the stitches from sinking into the nap of the knit.

Before I hit START, I can double-check the placement of the design. Is the needle centered on the crosshairs of my registration lines? Yep – everything looks good.

Checking the position of the embroidery motif

Now here's an essential thing. Before you start, make sure that none of the garment is beneath the embroidery hoop. The last thing you want is to have the sleeve or an edge embroidered into the back of the design. Yep – we've all done it. So be sure to check and perhaps double-check to make sure the bottom of the hoop is clear.

A topper stabilizer sits on the sweater in a metal hoop

I used a white Clover Chaco Liner to mark some registration lines on the sweater, and now it's easy to line up those registration lines with the metal ridges on the Small Metal Hoop.

The mySewnet Cloud menu on the Designer Ruby 90

I didn't want any jump stitches to appear inside the sweater, not that there were a lot of jump stitches in this design. Still, as I moved from Embroidery Edit to Embroidery Stitch Out, I turned off the Automatic Thread Cutter and Automatic Jump Stitch Trim feature. The Designer Ruby 90 stops a few stitches after starting the embroidery to let me trim the thread tails on the top.

Everything is now ready to start the machine embroidery

If you’re working with a garment that wants to fall into the embroidery hoop, you can get a Metal Hoop Fabric Guide Set, which helps prevent your work from falling inside the top of the hoop. I didn't need them here, but they can come in very handy.

Matching the registration lines with the marks on the side of the small metal hoop

Now that the sweater is hooped and ready to be stitched, it's time to get the embroidery motif. I'm using the same monogram I used on the fleece sample yesterday. Now, where’s that darn USB that I saved it on? Wait! I saved it in the mySewnet Cloud. So I opened up the mySewnet Cloud on the Designer Ruby 90, and there is my file. How easy is that?

The Welcome to Embroidery Stitch Out screen

A metal guide prevents fabrics from falling into the embroidery hoop

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I had to put the sweater on right away to check it out. The monogram is in the right place, and it looks stunning.

Now we're ready to hit START! I'm mesmerized when watching the embroidery machine stitch out. I could watch it for hours. But this is a small design, and it won't take long. And see how that topper is preventing those stitches from falling into the knit.

The embroidery stitches sitting on top of the topper stabilizer

Here's something else to watch for when hooping your garment. When marking your registration lines, you want those lines to be parallel to the grain lines of the knit, so the design looks straight. When hooping the knit, double-check that the lines of the knit are straight! No one wants a crooked monogram. There's one more thing to mention about working with the metal hoops. Be careful of the placement of the magnets. You do not want to position them into the embroidery area as they can affect how your design gets stitched out if it is close to the edge, as was the case with my monogram. This magnet is too close, so be sure to watch that when hooping your fabric.

The monogram is complete.

I removed the excess Water Works topper stabilizer, and the monogram looks awesome! And it seems pretty straight on the grain of the knit.

The next step was to cut away the excess Cut-A-Way stabilizer on the back. Be careful when you do this. The last thing you want is to cut a hole in your garment. There is a wide variety of INSPIRA Applique Scissors that you can use to trim the excess stabilizer away. Just be careful!!

Oh my gosh – it's done, and I quickly took it off the Designer Ruby 90 and unhooped it. The back of the monogram with the INSPIRA CutA-Way stabilizer that is permanent

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And here's the final result. That looks so cool. OK, this was just a test on an older sweater to see how it would turn out. I'm thrilled with the results, so I say look out! I'm ready to tackle a new sweater!

The monogram

Watch the placement of the magnets.

The last test was to wash the sweater The monogram on the to see what sweater happens with the Cut-A-Way stabilizer that stays on the back of the embroidery design. Oh – it's perfect!!!!! There is no pulling or rippling – the monogram lies beautifully flat on the garment.

The upcycled sweater with a monogram

Isn't that just the best way to dress up a plain sweater? You can personalize it as I did with a monogram or try another motif – florals or something geometric. There are many options in the mySewnet Library or the mySewnet Embroidery Software. The key is to have good tools like the Husqvarna Viking Designer Ruby 90, and don't forget the INSPIRA line of stabilizers. Be sure to follow all the steps so the result will be exciting. Let's not forget the fantastic technology in the mySewnet Ecosystem that allowed me easy access to my embroidery file – right on the Designer Ruby 90.

How to fix a hole in a knit sweater with machine embroidery The success of adding the monogram to the knit sweater made me think of a sweater that needed repair. Could I possibly use the Designer Ruby 90 to mend the sweater? Why, yes, I could!

A cashmere sweater

I purchased a with two tiny holes in beautiful cashmere the front sweater a while back, and somehow, it developed two tiny holes in the front. Today, I'm using machine embroidery as a means of mending the sweater so I can wear it again. The first step is to measure the holes to know how large an embroidery design A tape measure to I need. I didn't want guesstimate the size of the embroidery design anything large or heavy as the sweater is relatively delicate. A measuring tape made quick work of guesstimating the design size needed. Now it'll be easy to search for a design about 30 mm in diameter. I started by looking at the Mini Designs in the N Menu on the Designer Ruby 90. I found lots, but not quite the right size that would suit the mending process. They were a bit too tiny.

The N Menu with Mini Designs

Browsing the internet-based mySewnet Library from the Designer Ruby 90

I didn't find a design suitable in the N Menu, but guess what? I can search the mySewnet Embroidery Library to find a design. And the best thing is that I can search by size, technique, and theme. Since the size of the embroidery design is critical for my purposes, searching by size was very much appreciated. Even better is that I can search for the design directly from the Designer Ruby 90 because it's Wi-Fi enabled and connects directly to the mySewnet Library. I found three potential candidates and downloaded all three into the Embroidery Edit screen. That's a pretty handy feature to have as you can access over 7,000 designs in the mySewnet Library, and it's easy to transfer the designs by saving them to the mySewnet Cloud or sending the designs directly to the Wi-Fi enabled Designer Ruby 90.

Three potential embroidery designs

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Then I did a test stitch-out of all three to understand how they were digitized and picked the most appropriate for my mending task.

Once I was in Design Positioning, I selected the center of the design as the anchor point. Design Positioning is a two or four-step process depending on how big your embroidery design is and the location of where it's going. My floral design was small and symmetrical, so it was easy to position using the two-step process. You can see the four steps in the bottom left of the screen. I love this feature, and it makes it super easy to get your embroidery design positioned precisely.

A stitch-out of the three potential embroidery designs

Starting the embroidery process – without a topper on the knit

Once I selected the most appropriate design, I hooped my sweater using the same technique as yesterday. I used the INSPIRA Cut-A-Way stabilizer and a bit of temporary adhesive spray to stick the stabilizer to the wrong side of the sweater, and then I hooped it using the Husqvarna Viking Small Metal Hoop.

The small metal hoop with four magnets

And this time, I put some pieces of the INSPIRA Water Works Soluble Film stabilizer (topper) over the sweater before I started stitching. Now, if you're very observant, you'll see a black dot in the center of the front flower. That's because I put the center of the design right in the sweater hole the first time. I wasn't ripping it out. But I learned for the second design.

The Design Positioning screen

The design had to be placed in the correct spot to conceal the hole. That was super easy using Design Positioning. This handy tool let me to move the design around on the Embroidery Edit screen and helped me position the design exactly where it needed to be.

Once I had the embroidery design where I was pretty sure I wanted it, I double-checked by lowering the needle, and yes – it's in the right spot. You'll notice that the hole in the sweater is just behind and to the left of the needle. I did that for a reason. If I placed the center of the flower in the hole, I would likely end up with a hole in the finished flower. So, I positioned the design so one of the petals covers the opening.

The Design Positioning tool second from the left on the bottom

Using the needle to double-check the placement of the embroidery design

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And then I started to do the embroidery. Wait – I forgot to put the topper on the knit. Shoot, you can see how it was already pulling the stitches. So, I stopped and ripped out the stitches, which was easy, and then started again.

Use a topper so the embroidery stitches don't pull or sink into the knit.

And there are the three floral embroidery designs. There were only two small holes, but odd numbers look more pleasing, so I added a third embroidery design. I mended the two holes first and then spaced the third one so it ‘fit’. I loaded the floral design once in the Designer Ruby 90, and I used Design Positioning to move the design to each spot.

Then using a pair of INSPIRA Applique Scissors, I carefully removed the excess CutA-Way stabilizer from the back. Because the sweater is very light, I cut around each motif. I can't say enough about being careful when you do this. You do not want to cut the garment! And here is the repaired sweater. It's a very loose informal garment, so adding the three flowers looks perfectly OK. And even if it didn't, it's my sweater – I can do what I want with it! And I saved throwing out that expensive cashmere sweater! I'm good with that.

Using applique scissors to remove the excess Cut-

A-Way stabilizer Oh my gosh! Wasn't that just the best? If you haven't tried mending with your embroidery machine – start looking around your house. I’d like to mend a pair of pants or something made with denim, but alas, there isn't anything much that needs mending around here. But I'm on the lookout for other garments that I can repair with the embroidery machine. The three embroidery flowers used to mend the sweater

Now to remove the excess topper. I was a bit concerned about the thread color – it's pretty vibrant compared to the sweater. But hey, if I'm putting those flowers on the sweater, I want people to see them. If they ask questions, I'll tell them how I mended the sweater. It’d be such a shame to throw out this expensive cashmere sweater! I'm thrilled with the results.

It was such an easy task to do with the Husqvarna Viking Designer Ruby 90. I quickly browsed the mySewnet Library right on the screen because the Designer Ruby 90 is Wi-Fi enabled. I used the Design Positioning tools to get the embroidery designs positioned in the exact spot, and it was so easy to hoop the sweater using the metal hoops. I can't wait to do it again!

The three embroidery flowers with most of the water-soluble topper removed

The cashmere sweater after the repair using machine embroidered flowers

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Sewing on a button and a snap with the Husqvarna Viking Designer Ruby 90

I'll admit that I'm a bit of a lazy sewist. I love handwork, but if I can do the task with a sewing machine, I'll do it. I have a jacket to repair today, and I was going to do it by hand, but that meant finding some hand needles, and well, the Designer Ruby 90 was calling to me. So, I'm repairing the jacket with the sewing machine. Now the repair is straightforward. A snap used to close the jacket, which I had initially stitched in place by hand, was coming loose, and I figured it was better to fix the snap now before it completely fell off and got lost. You know what they say – a stitch in time saves nine! It's so easy to sew buttons on with the sewing machine, but did you know there are several ways to do that? Let's have a look. I'll start with the optional Button Foot with Placement Tool. It easily snaps onto the presser foot ankle.

The Button Foot with Placement Tool

What's nice about the Button Foot is that if I need the button sewn on without a shank, it stays in the position shown above. If my fabric is thick, then I need the button sewn on with a shank. It's easy to transition between the two settings as there's a small gray lever on the right-hand side, and by pulling that forward, a plastic ridge appears at the front, and the shank (made of thread) forms over that ridge.

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The Button Foot set to sew a button with a thread shank

Using the Placement Tool to insert the button into the Button Foot

Along the front of the Button Foot, you’ll notice that there's a slot on either side of the foot. These slots hold the button in place. It can be tricky to get the button into the slots and get the holes lined up with the needle. However, there's a handy tool that makes this job super simple. The Placement Tool has two prongs that you insert into the holes of the button.

Then you can remove the tool, and you are ready to sew. But wait – the needle isn't in the correct position in this photo because I did not select the stitch that I’ll use to sew on the button.

Use the prongs of the Placement Tool to grab the button.

The button sits in the Button Foot, ready to be stitched in place.

Then it's simple to insert the button into the front slots. The way the Placement Tools grabs the button ensures the button's holes are in line with the needle.

Elaine Theriault crazyquilteronabike.blogspot.com

It's so easy; it's child play! When I turn the Designer Ruby 90 on, the JoyOS Advisor appears on the opening screen. And let's look in the bottom right-hand corner. What does that say? The JoyOS Advisor Sew on button! Wow – how easy is that? Selecting that icon opens a window with the correct stitch for sewing on the button. A tutorial to explain what supplies are needed and how to sew the stitch also The machine settings and appears. And a tutorial for sewing on a even better, the button appear on the screen. Designer Ruby 90 is now ready to sew the button on. All the settings are taken care of by the JoyOS Advisor. I love it! Now you'll notice in the tutorial, that the Multipurpose tool is used to hold the button in place. If you need a thin or thick shank, the Multipurpose tool can be used instead of the Button Foot. The Multipurpose foot is part of the accessories for the Designer Ruby 90. Either option will work.

The default width of the stitch for sewing on the button is 3mm. That is pretty much an industry standard, but I still manually test the left and right needle position by manually turning the handwheel. The last thing I want is bits of broken buttons or needles flying around the studio.

Manually checking the needle position for sewing the button on

The other thing to note on the tack stitch used to sew on the button is the number of times the needle goes left to right. You'll see in the settings that the default is 8. That's probably The default width and length of the standard a couple more stitch used to sew buttons than I would do if I were sewing the button by hand. You can increase or decrease that number. Now that everything is ready, let's see it in action. Isn't that just the best? But I want to re-attach a snap, so I'll use a slightly different technique to fix the jacket. I've removed the Button Foot, and I'm not going to use the Multipurpose Tool. I'm simply going to use the presser foot ankle to hold the snap in place. Only two sides of the snap were loose, so I didn't need to secure it to the jacket. But if I had to, I could use some tape, which they recommended in the built-in tutorial.

The Multipurpose tool

I carefully positioned the snap so the hole would line up with the needle. I manually tested that the needle would go back and forth and not hit the snap.

Use the presser foot ankle to hold the snap in place while it's tacked in place.

That was too easy. Make sure you clean up the old threads first. And here is the snap, firmly attached on all sides. I really should’ve removed the rest of the hand stitching and secured all four sides of the snap with the Designer Ruby 90. Since each securing stitch took seconds, I might go back and do that.

The snap is now securely back in place.

WOW – WOW – WOW – that was so easy! I'm having so much fun creating new things and repairing things with the Husqvarna Viking Designer Ruby 90. It's an excellent machine that does all kinds of jobs! My week is up, but you can bet that I'm scouring that pile of projects to see what else I can fix or create with this fabulous sewing and embroidery machine. Be sure to stop by your local Husqvarna Viking sewing machine dealer and ask for an in-person demo. You'll be impressed. Until next time, Have a super day! Ciao!

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BUSINESS DIRECTORY

To list your business in this space please call 1.866.969.2678.

CANADA Brampton Sew & Serge 289 Rutherford Rd S, Unit 7, Brampton, ON L6W 3R9  905.874.1564  bramptonsewnserge.com  monique@bramptonsewnserge.com Welcome to Your One Stop Sewing Centre! We are authorized dealers of Baby Lock, Husqvarna Viking, and Singer sewing machines and sergers. We also offer a full schedule of sewing classes for everyone. Brandon Sewing Centre 821 Princess Ave, Brandon MB R7A 0P5, 204.727.2752 Bytowne Threads - Ottawa, ON  1.888.831.4095  bytownethreads.com  mlj@bytownethreads.com Featuring Aurifil thread from Italy. Long staple Egyptian cotton threads - 270 colours in 12, 28, 40 and 50 wt; 88 colours in 80 wt. Polyester Aurilux - 240 high sheen colours. Wool threads - 192 colours. Many kits available. Check our website! Canadian National Fabric - Brampton, ON  https://canadiannationalfabric.com/  info@canadiannationalfabric.com We are an online fabric shoppe offering a wide variety of fabrics, patterns, books and notions for all your sewing needs. Flat rate Canada wide shipping of $5. Shop in person available by appointment! Carellan Sewing Centre 1685 Corydon Ave, Winnipeg MB R3N 0J8 204.488.2272, facebook.com/CarellanSewingCentre Country Concessions 35 King Street N, Cookstown, ON L0L 1L0 (new address) 705.458.4546, countryconcessions.com Gitta's 271 Lakeshore Rd E, Mississauga, ON L5G 1G8  905.274.7198  gittas.com  questions@gittas.com Nestled in the east village of Port Credit, Gitta's is the place where stitchers meet with their stitching friends, shop for stitching supplies and see the new stitching designs from Europe and the United States. Hardanger House, designs by Betty Stokoe Oldham PO Box 1623, Penhold, AB T0M 1R0  403.573.2003  bettyoldham53@gmail.com  tnplisting.com/hardanger-house Hardanger embroidery charts and kits. Designs feature contemporary adaptations of this traditional cutwork embroidery from Norway. Shop online at etsy.com/shop/ HardangerHouse. Some digital downloads available. Haus of Stitches 626 Main Street, Humboldt, SK S0K 2A0  306.682.0772 or toll-free 1.800.344.6024  hausofstitches.ca Our one of a kind store offers everything you need for sewing, quilting, knitting, rug hooking and needlework. Authorized dealers for Janome and Elna. K & A Quilt Studio 90 Samnah Cres, Ingersoll ON N5C 3J7 (New Location!)  519.425.4141  kaquiltstudio.com Where friends and creativity meet! Authorized distributor of Husqvarna VIKING sewing machines, and a Kimberbell Certified Shop. We stock full collections of quilting fabrics, featuring Northcott and Moda, plus lots of patterns, books, and samples to inspire you! Kelly's Creative Sewing 804 Main St, Dartmouth, NS B2W 3V1  902.435.7380  kellyscreativesewing.ca  kellyscreativesewing@gmail.com We offer sales and on-site service of high-end domestic embroidery, sewing machines and sergers, as well as a variety of educational programs. Ottawa Sewing Centre 1390 Clyde Ave, #107, Ottawa, ON K2G 3H9  613.695.1386  ottawasewing.com  ottawasewing@gmail.com Authorized Dealers for Brother, BabyLock, Elna, Q'nique & Grace quilting frames. Specialize in sales, parts & servicing for all makes & models of quilting/embroidery/sewing/ serger/overlock machines & cabinets by Sylvia Design.

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| issue 22

Sew Inspired 375 Daniel St S, Arnprior, ON K7S 3K6  613.623.0500  sewinspired.ca  info@sewinspired.ca Your Ottawa Valley PFAFF® Authorized Dealer. We have a large supply of quilting & sewing supplies, knitting supplies, as well as in stock PFAFF® sewing machines. We also have a listing of sewing and quilting classes. Sew With Vision 480 Parkland Dr, Halifax, NS B3S 1P9 902.479.2227, sewwithvision.net Stitch By Stitch 550 Days Rd Unit 1, Kingston ON K7M 3R7 613.389.2223, stitchbystitchkingston.com That Sewing Place 16610 Bayview Ave #10, Newmarket, ON L3X 1X3 905.715.7725, thatsewingplace.ca The Quilt Store / Evelyn's Sewing Centre 17817 Leslie St, Unit 40, Newmarket, ON L3Y 8C6  905.853.7001 or toll-free 1.888.853.7001 The Quilt Store West 695 Plains Rd E, Unit 6, Burlington, ON L7T 2E8  905.631.0894 or toll-free 1.877.367.7070  thequiltstore.ca Now with 2 locations to serve you, we are your Quilt Store Destination! The staff here at The Quilt Store is always on hand to provide Quilt Wisdom, Quilt Inspiration and most of all we pride ourselves as the place to make... All Your Quilt Dreams Come True! The Stitcher's Muse Needleart #101 - 890 Crace St, Nanaimo, BC V9R 2T3  250.591.6873  thestitchersmuse.com  info@thestitchersmuse.com A divine little shop with supplies for all your hand stitching needs! Friendly, knowledgeable, helpful staff. Cross stitch, canvaswork, needlepoint, embroidery, counted thread, lace making & more. Books, patterns, fabric, threads, tools. The Yarn Guy 15 Gower St, Toronto, ON M4B 1E3  416.752.1828 or toll-free 1.800.836.6536  theyarnguy.com  info@sewknit.ca See us on Facebook, follow us on Twitter! Knitting machines, sewing machines, repairs, parts for Passap, Studio, Singer, Silver Reed, Superba, White. Sewing notions and supplies, books, ball yarns, coned yarns, TAMM yarns, Paton's yarns, Bernat yarns, Phentex yarns, Bernat kits & crafts. Upper Canada Quiltworks – Quiltworks Studio PO Box 64, Brockville, ON K6V 5T7  613.865.7299  uppercanadaquiltworks.com  uppercanadaquiltworksstudio@gmail.com Quilt patterns and books, fabric and notions, felted wool, wool kits, punchneedle patterns and supplies and Valdani embroidery floss. Workshops in quilting, punchneedle, wool applique, rug-hooking, sewing, sign painting & more! UNITED STATES A Quilter's Folly 8213 Brodie Ln #100, Austin, TX 78745 512.899.3233, aquiltersfolly.com A-1 Singer Sewing Center 1012 S Oliver St, Wichita KS 67218 316.685.0226, a-1singer.com American Folk Art and Craft Supply 1415 Hanover St, West Hanover, MA 02339 781.871.7277, americanfolkartonline.com Charlotte Sewing Studio 1109 Tamiami Trl Unit 2, Port Charlotte FL 33953 941.235.3555, charlottesewingstudio.com Close to Home Sewing Center 277 Hebron Ave, Glastonbury CT 06033 860.633.0721, closetohomestores.com Cottage Quilts * Sew Creative Studio 1310 Center Dr Unit A, Medford OR 97501 541.500.8071, cottage-quilts.com Discount Fabric Warehouse 933 Kanoelehua Ave, Hilo HI 96720 808.935.1234, discountfabricwarehouse.com

El Cajon Sew & Vac 1077 Broadway, El Cajon CA 92021 619.442.2585, sewezr.com Hursh's Country Store 2425 W Main St, Ephrata PA 17522 717.721.2575, hurshscountrystore.com Jessamine Quilt Shop LLC 1301 Old Cherokee Rd, Lexington SC 29072-9047 803.490.1031, jessaminequiltshop.com JS Linen and Curtain Outlet 1250 Northside Dr, Statesville NC 28625 704.871.1939, jslinenoutlet.com/js-quilt-shop Just Sew Studio 51 Third St NE, Waite Park MN 56387 320.654.1580, justsewstudiomn.com Keeping You Sewing 226 4th Ave S, Clinton IA 52732 563.242.6135, keepingyousewing.com Lone Star Quiltworks 4301 S Texas Ave, Bryan TX 77802-4360 979.595.1072, lonestarquiltworks.com Maryland Vacuum and Sewing Center 26845 Point Lookout Rd (Rt 5) Leonardtown MD 20650 240.309.4019, mdvacsew.com New England Sewing 501 Hartford Rd, Manchester CT 06040 860.647.8119, nesewing.com Options Quilt Shop 102 E Commerce St, Jacksonville TX 75766 903.586.9546, optionsquiltshop.com Paramount Sewing & Vacuum 3960 Rickey St SE, Salem OR 97317 503.990.8186, paramount-sew-vac.com Pick Your Stitch 6701 Manlius Center Rd, East Syracuse NY 13057 315.437.0962, pickyourstitch.com Quality Vac and Sew 1213 Gilmore Ave Ste E2B, Winona MN 55987-2632 507.452.2203, qualityvacandsew.com Quilter's Attic Sewing Center 118 Maple Ave, Pine Bush NY 12566 845.744.5888, quiltersattic.com Quilters' Corner @ Middlebury Sew-N-Vac 260 Court St Ste 4, Middlebury VT 05753 802.388.3559, middleburysewnvac.com Quintessential Quilts 940 East Main St, Reedsburg WI 53959 608.524.8435, qquilts.com Select Sewing 2415 East 65th St, Indianapolis IN 46220 317.255.6332, selectsewingservice.com Sew Special 688 W Main St, Uniontown PA 15401 724.438.1765, sew-special.biz Sew What? Fabric Shoppe 7 W Front St, Addison NY 14801 607.359.4308, sewwhatfabricshoppe.com Sewing Solutions 1505 S Glenburine Rd, Ste G, New Bern SC 28562-2689 252.633.1799, sewingsolutionsnc.com Sierra Sewing, Quilting, and Vacuums 8056 S Virginia St Ste 6, Reno NV 89511 775.823.9700, sierrasewing.com Singer Factory Distributor 4914 W Irving Park Rd, Chicago IL 60641 773.545.6834, singerfactorydistributor.com Suddenly Sewing 5850 Kroger Dr Ste 110, Fort Worth TX 76244 817.741.5400, suddenlysewing.com Thimbelina's Quilt Shop 118 North B St Ste B, Livingston MT 59047-2662 406.222.5904, thimbelinasquiltshop.com Wise Monkey Quilting 501 Hwy 39 N, Denison IA 51442 712.393.7979, wisemonkeyquilting.com

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EMBROIDERY EMBROIDERY EMBROIDERY EMBROIDERY

sewing & embroidery machine sewing sewing & embroidery & embroidery machine machine

FEATURES: sewing & embroidery machine FEATURES: •FEATURES: With its large 8" full-colour capacitive touchscreen, drag and drop embroidery designs on screen, advance • • With •FEATURES: With its large its large 8" full-colour 8" full-colour capacitive capacitive touchscreen, touchscreen, through edit designs, andscreen, more drag drag and drop andtutorials, drop embroidery embroidery designs designs on on screen, advance advance • With its large 8" full-colour capacitive touchscreen, • through through tutorials, tutorials, edit designs, edit designs, and more and more drag andwith dropover embroidery designs on screen, • Loaded 620 embroidery designs & 8advance through tutorials, andthousands more embroidery fonts plus, access to • Loaded • Loaded with with over over 620 edit embroidery 620 designs, embroidery designs designs & 8 &more 8 designs ™ * in mySewnet Library directly embroidery embroidery fontsfonts plus, plus, access access to thousands toon-screen thousands moremore designs designs• • Loaded with over 620 embroidery designs & 8 ™ ™ * * in mySewnet in mySewnet Library Library directly directly on-screen on-screen plus,included: access to thousands more designs • 3embroidery Embroideryfonts Hoops ™ * ™ Library directly on-screen inEmbroidery mySewnet Splendid Square Hoop, 120 x 120mm • 3 Embroidery • 3DESIGNER Hoops Hoops included: included: ™ ™ ™ Splendid DESIGNER Splendid Square Square Hoop, Hoop, 120 x120 120mm x 120mm 260 x 200mm • DESIGNER 3 EmbroideryCrown HoopsHoop, included: ™ ™ ™ DESIGNER Crown Crown Hoop, Hoop, 260 x 260 200mm x 200mm ™ Royal Hoop, 360 x 200mm DESIGNER DESIGNER Splendid Square Hoop, 120 x 120mm ™ ™ Royal Hoop, Hoop, 360 x360 200mm x x200mm DESIGNER DESIGNER ™ Royal DESIGNER Crown Hoop, 260 200mm

• Design Shaping, 10 different shapes Design • Design Shaping, Shaping, 10 different 10 different shapes shapes • Design Appliqué, 45 built-in shapes, Shaping, 10 different shapes 6Design different stitch options Design •• Design Appliqué, Appliqué, 45 built-in 45 built-in shapes, shapes, 6 different 6 different stitchstitch options options Design Appliqué, 45 built-in shapes, •• mySewnet - enabled with cloud-based 6 different stitch options wireless transfer of designs, mySewnet • storage, mySewnet - enabled - enabled with with cloud-based cloud-based and wireless updates storage, storage, wireless transfer transfer of designs, of designs, • mySewnet - enabled with cloud-based and updates and updates storage, wireless transfer of designs, and updates

DESIGNER™ Royal Hoop, 360 x 200mm

sewing and embroidery machine sewing sewing and and embroidery embroidery machine machine FEATURES: sewing and embroidery machine FEATURES: FEATURES: • Large 10.1” capacitive touch tablet-like screen allows you to easily navigate on screen with touch • • Large • Large 10.1”10.1” capacitive capacitive touch touch tablet-like tablet-like screen screen FEATURES: gestures allows allows you to youeasily to easily navigate navigate on screen on screen with with touchtouch • Large 10.1” capacitive touch tablet-like screen gestures gestures allows650 youembroidery to easily navigate screen with touch • Over designsonincluding Ribbon • gestures Embroidery capability with theincluding optional attachment • Over • Over 650 embroidery 650 embroidery designs designs including Ribbon Ribbon Embroidery Embroidery capability capability with with the optional the optional attachment attachment Over 650 embroidery designs •• More space to work with moreincluding than 12”Ribbon (310mm) to Embroidery capability with the attachment the right the needle andmore over 5.5” (140mm) in height • More • More space space toofwork to work with with more thanoptional than 12” (310mm) 12” (310mm) to to • the right the right of the ofneedle the needle and over and over 5.5” 5.5” (140mm) (140mm) in height in height • More space to work with more than 12” (310mm) to the right of the needle and over 5.5” (140mm) in height

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• Sew and embroider for longer periods without interruption with bobbins • Sew and embroider for longer periods without Sew and embroider forlarger longer periods without interruption bobbins interruption with with largerlarger bobbins Sew and the embroider longer without •• Achieve perfect for thread feedperiods no matter ™ interruption with larger bobbins Stitch the the thread fabric with the • Achieve theorperfect thread feed no matter Achieve perfect thread feed nodeLuxe matter ™ ™ System the thread or fabric the deLuxe Stitch Stitch the thread or fabric with with the deLuxe • Achieve the perfect thread feed no matter System System ™ the thread or fabric with • Hassle-free threading withthe thedeLuxe fully Stitch System automatic needle threader Hassle-free • Hassle-free threading threading with with the fully the fully automatic automatic needle needle threader threader • Hassle-free threading with the fully automatic needle threader

VIKING, DESIGNER, DESIGNER RUBY, DESIGNER SAPPHIRE, DELUXE and MYSEWNET are trademarks of KSIN Luxembourg II, S.a.r.l. HUSQVARNA and the “H” Crown Device are trademarks of Husqvarna AB and are used under license. ©2022 KSIN Luxembourg II, S.a.r.l. All rights reserved. All pricing decisions are at the sole discretion of the VIKING, VIKING, DESIGNER, DESIGNER, DESIGNER DESIGNER RUBY,RUBY, DESIGNER DESIGNER SAPPHIRE, SAPPHIRE, DELUXE DELUXE and MYSEWNET and MYSEWNET are trademarks are trademarks of KSIN of KSIN Luxembourg Luxembourg II, S.a.r.l. II, S.a.r.l. HUSQVARNA HUSQVARNA and the and “H” theCrown “H” Crown retailer. No prior purchases. Valid at authorized HUSQVARNA® VIKING® retailers in Canada. DeviceDevice are trademarks are trademarks of Husqvarna of Husqvarna AB and ABare and used are under used under license. license. ©2022©2022 KSIN KSIN Luxembourg Luxembourg II, S.a.r.l. II, S.a.r.l. All rights All rights reserved. reserved. All pricing All pricing decisions decisions are atare theatsole thediscretion sole discretion of theof the a separate subscription. ® *Requires ® ® ® VIKING VIKING retailers retailers inthe Canada. in Canada. retailer. No prior No prior purchases. purchases. Valid of at Valid authorized at Luxembourg authorized HUSQVARNA HUSQVARNA VIKING, DESIGNER, DESIGNER RUBY, DESIGNER SAPPHIRE, DELUXE retailer. and MYSEWNET are trademarks KSIN II, S.a.r.l. HUSQVARNA and “H” Crown *Requires *Requires separate a separate subscription. Device are trademarks of Husqvarna AB and are used under license. ©2022 KSIN Luxembourg II, S.a.r.l. All rights reserved. All pricing decisions area at the solesubscription. discretion of the retailer. No prior purchases. Valid at authorized HUSQVARNA® VIKING® retailers in Canada. *Requires a separate subscription.

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