QUILTsocial | Issue 27 by A Needle Pulling Thread

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Exploring the Husqvarna Viking PLATINUM™ Q160

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Ruler work: The STRAIGHT talk on quilting STRAIGHT lines

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Gütermann Denim Love Nostalgia Box INSPIRES a creative denim quilt

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Bosal batting strips make a good old fashion mat: Let’s get started! | issue 27 O  UILT Playing with color and movement: Making placemats with jelly rolls

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Editor's Letter As quilters, we aim to create treasured quilts with the help of efficient tools and techniques that add to the joy of quilting. Even when working on practical projects such as totes, mats, or placemats, we always strive to find tools that simplify our tasks. This issue contains some of our preferred notions and techniques for an innovative denim quilt, distinctive 'crisscross' placemats, and a quilted craft bag. Let's start with a fantastic guide on how to use Bosal batting strips to create a timeless mat. If you're interested in a more contemporary approach to mat-making, you'll love our tutorial on using the Clover fabric tube maker. Discover how to craft an impressive floor mat that will leave your guests in awe. When crafting quilted bags, it's important to consider the shape and structure. These bags need to be both functional and stylish. You can take your sewing projects to the next level with Bosal Sew in Foam Stabilizer. Additionally, you can learn techniques to make adding an inner lining to your bags an easy task.

Looking to turn your old jeans into something new? Try your hand at creating unique quilt blocks with Paul Léger’s easy-to-follow guide on cutting and piecing denim. This article combines sustainability with creativity. When it comes to cutting denim, OLFA cutters are your best bet. Discover how effortless they make the process. I particularly love how Paul incorporated boy’s clothing into the design. Just imagine how charming it would be with a girl’s dress! To make your quilt even more special, consider incorporating clothing from your child’s younger years. The Gütermann Denim Love Nostalgia Box offers all the thread colors you’ll need for this oneof-a-kind denim quilt. Finish it off with parallel line stitching and a unique binding technique using strips from old jeans. This sustainable and creative approach is sure to make your project stand out. Moving on to sewing and quilting machines, let's take a closer look at the PFAFF passport 2.0 sewing and quilting machine, which is perfect for unleashing your creativity. We'll explore its features and capabilities and show you how to create unique placemats with jelly rolls. Elevate your quilting project to the next level with the PFAFF passport 2.0's precision and create a stunning grid design. These placemats will add a touch of style to any dining table.

Are you struggling with free motion quilting? Don't worry, we have the solution with the Husqvarna Viking PLATINUM™ Q160. Follow the expert advice of Elaine Theriault, who will guide you through the unboxing process and offer step-by-step instructions to set up your quilting machine with ease. Learn about the impressive features and benefits of the Husqvarna Viking PLATINUM™ Q160, which will enhance your quilting experience. Make sure to check out Elaine's tutorial on ruler work for even more tips and tricks! We hope that this wide range of articles provides you with inspiration and guidance in your quilting pursuits. Regardless of whether you prefer traditional methods or are keen on embracing modern techniques and tools, there is a universe of creativity to discover within these pages. Wishing you a joyful quilting experience! Cheerfully,

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PUBLISHER, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ART DIRECTOR Carla A. Canonico carla@QUILTsocial.com PUBLISHER, ADVERTISING SALES John De Fusco john@QUILTsocial.com PHOTOGRAPHERS Carla A. Canonico, John De Fusco BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS Claire Haillot quiltingwithclaire.com/wp Elaine Theriault crazyquilteronabike.blogspot.com Paul Léger paullegerquilts.com GRAPHIC & WEB DESIGN Carla A. Canonico carla@QUILTsocial.com GRAPHIC ASSISTANT and SOCIAL MEDIA Sondra Armas Maria Corina Guillen WEBSITE / BLOG : https://QUILTsocial.com Like us on Facebook : QUILTsocial Follow us on Pinterest : quiltsocial Follow us on Instagram : quiltsocial Follow us on Twitter : @QUILTsocial WHERE TO GET YOUR COPY QUILTsocial is a quarterly eMagazine published by A Needle Pulling Thread. It is available free for personal use online at https://QUILTsocial.com. A limited number of printed copies of QUILTsocial are available for purchase at select quilt shops and specialty stores. Ask for it at your local shop. QUILTsocial is not available by subscription. QUILT SHOPS If you are interested in carrying QUILTsocial in your store, please email john@QUILTsocial.com.

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EDITORIAL Designers and other contributors who would like to be considered for future issues please email carla@QUILTsocial.com with a brief description of your work and your proposed project for the magazine. ©2023 QUILTsocial. All rights reserved. Issue 27. ISSN 2368-5913. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are for private, non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted material owned by their respective creators or owners.

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Elaine’s Quilting Tech Tips! 4

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51 A Needle Pulling Thread Magazine 50 Business Directory 17 Gütermann Creativ 02 Husqvarna Viking 23 OLFA Cutters 07 OLFA Mats 52 PFAFF 04 QUILTsocial.com 35 RIT Dyes 27 SCHMETZ 49 Soak Wash

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Bosal batting strips make a good old fashion mat: Let’s get started!

Easy-to-use Clover fabric tube maker helps make a fantastic floor mat (tutorial)

Bosal Sew in Foam Stabilizer gives shape to your sewing projects

Heirloom, OLFA, and Omnigrid: The right brands for the right quilting tools

Inserting an inner lining for a quilted craft bag: Tools to make it easy

OLFA cutters cut through denim with ease - Make a denim quilt

How to cut and piece denim from old jeans to make quilt blocks

Gütermann Denim Love Nostalgia Box INSPIRES a creative denim quilt

Parallel line stitching: A fun way to add interest to your quilt

Binding a denim quilt with strips from old jeans: It takes pant legs!

Unleash your quilting creativity with the PFAFF passport 2.0: Lots to love!

Playing with color and movement: Making placemats with jelly rolls

Color and movement: Creating a grid design with the PFAFF passport 2.0

Precision stitching on the PFAFF passport 2.0

Choosing a quilting design for your quilt | Movement and dimension

Unboxing and setting up the Husqvarna Viking PLATINUM™ Q160

Exploring the features and benefits of the Husqvarna Viking PLATINUM™ Q160

How to make free motion quilting a smooth operation [tips and tools]

Ruler work: The STRAIGHT talk on quilting STRAIGHT lines

3 Husqvarna Viking accessory feet to make free motion quilting FUN and EASY

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Bosal batting strips make a good

old fashion mat:

Let's get started! Paul Léger

Something I like about writing these articles is the challenge of stepping out of my comfort zone by trying new notions and products. Well, in this issue I get to try the new Clover Fabric Tube Maker and Bosal products. This will be interesting as I’m a guy that normally makes quilts but not for this feature. For the first project, I'm using 2½” strips and for the second project I'm making a bag for all my crafting needs. I’m trying some of these Bosal and Clover products.

• Bosal Katahdin Batting Strip - 6.35cm x 22.86m (21/2'' x 25yds) • Bosal In-R-Form UNIQUE Sew-In Foam Stabilizer - 45.7 x 147.3 cm (18'' x 58'')

• Bosal In-R-Form Double Sided Fusible Foam Stabilizer - 45.7 x 147.3 cm (18'' x 58'')

• Bosal In-R-Form Single Sided Fusible Foam Stabilizer - 45.7 x 147.3 cm (18'' x 58'')

• Clover Fabric Tube Maker Bosal batting strips, Bosal foams stabilizers and a Clover fabric tube maker For some time now many sewists have made mats, pot holders, and all sorts of other items using Bosal Katahdin Batting Strip 6.35cm x 22.86m (21/2'' x 25yds), but I’ve yet to try. In this feature I get to do a mat of my own. Let the fun adventure begin!

Bosal batting strips, Bosal foams stabilizers and a Clover fabric tube maker

Bosal batting strip roll

As I’m a thrifty quilter, I take all my quilt scraps and trim them down to make squares of many sizes and strips of different widths. I decided to dive into my scrap stash and pull out some 2½” strips. According to my calculations, 22½ strips which have the approximate length of 40” should do the trick.

A variety of 22½ – 2½” strips measuring approximately 40” in length

Photos by Paul Léger

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Trim the fabric ¼” away from the seam and press the seam open. Repeat this step everywhere a seam was made. Press the full length of all the strips to prepare them for the next tube-making step.

Make a 45-degree diagonal line at both ends of every strip.

Take all the strips and make a 45-degree line at both ends of every strip. Place strips right sides together at a 90-degree angle and sew on the diagonal line. Repeat this step until all strips are sewn together. Note: The reason I’m doing a diagonal seam instead of a straight seam is to reduce the bulk of fabric that will go through the Clover fabric tube maker.

Trim strips ¼” away from the seam and press the seam open.

It’s unbelievable how easy this project is using Bosal and Clover products.

Clover Fabric Tube maker

Place strips right sides together at 90-degree angles and sew on the diagonal line.

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Easy-to-use

Clover fabric tube maker

helps make a fantastic floor mat (tutorial)

I’ll also be using the Clover Fabric Tube Maker. When I looked at this new-to-me notion by Clover, I was a little bit worried about how this would work. I’m now impressed with the simplicity and ease to use.

Fold the Bosal and fabric strip in two and insert into the larger piece of the Clover tube maker.

Insert the Bosal and fabric strip in the Clover Fabric Tube Maker.

Clover Fabric Tube Maker

Once the strips are inserted snap the second largest piece into the larger part.

Place the Clover Fabric Tube Maker parts side by side as follows.

Separate the Clover Fabric Tube Maker into its four parts.

I took the Bosal Katahdin Batting Strip roll and laid it on the wrong side of the fabric strip I prepared.

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In the next photo, it appears I’m finishing the sewing of the strips. I’m actually starting. Due to the number of layers and the difficulty of feeding them under the presser foot, I turned the tube as shown in order to sew the first two or so inches.

Insert and snap the second larger part in the larger Clover Fabric Tube Maker.

Fold the Bosal and fabric strip one more time and insert them into the larger of the two remaining pieces of the Clover tube maker.

Re-insert the Bosal and fabric strip in the larger of the two remaining Clover Fabric Tube Maker.

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Insert and snap the last piece of the larger Clover Fabric Tube Maker.

Note: For this step, I like to use an open toe embroidery foot with the needle to one side and not centered.

Lay Bosal batting strip on wrong side of a fabric strip.

Once the strips are inserted, snap in the last piece.

Sew the first two inches of the strips as if it was the end of the fabric tube.

Once the two or three first inches are sewn, turn the tube around and sew along the full length. As the tube is fed under the presser foot, gently move the pairs of the Fabric Tube Maker away from the needle in three-to-four-inch increments.

Remember to move the needle position to the opposite side.

Once the length of the fold is sewn, gently curve the long length of the tube. This step is a tricky one because there is a lot of bulk. As the turn gets wider, it will get easier.

For a large mat, sew to the left of the needle.

The mat is completed. Sew along the full length of the fabric tube.

Admire the colors of the fabric tube.

Pivot the tube to make a circular mat.

As the mat gets larger, it will get easier to go around the ends. If you’re making a large mat, sew to keep the mat to the left of your needle. This makes the whole process easier than trying to squeeze everything to the right of the needle.

25 yards of fabric tube

I really enjoy the process and ease of making this mat; so much so I’ll probably do another one with five rainbowed colored jelly rolls. I calculated it will take eight to ten Bosal Batting Strip - 6.35cm x 22.86m (21/2'' x 25yds). It will be big and beautiful. The roll of Bosal Batting Strip and the Clover Fabric Tube Maker are a perfect match for each other and I look forward to using them again to play some more.

Note: As the mat was getting larger, I was able to reduce the width of the zigzag stitch by almost half.

Fold one end of the fabric tube and pin it. I folded approximately 6”. If I had folded a longer length, the mat would be more oval.

Fold one end of the fabric tube and pin.

Set the sewing machine to make a wide zigzag stitch. The first few stitches should be tight. After I sewed a couple of inches, I increased the stitch length to four.

Sew a zigzag stitch over both edges of the tube.

Completed mat

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Bosal Sew in Foam Stabilizer gives shape to your sewing projects

I’m using the Bosal In-R-Form Unique Sew-In Foam Stabilizer along with the Omnigrip 201/2” x 201/2” Ruler, OLFA Rotary Cutter, the 24” x 36” Heirloom Double Sided Cutting Mat and the small Heirloom Clever Clips to make a craft bag.

With the black 2¼” pieces sewn to the outer bag fabrics, there are now four sets of fabric measuring 14¼” x 18” and 6½” x 18”. Pair all four sets completed, as well as the black 6½” x 14¼” rectangle and pair them to the matching sizes of cut pieces of the Bosal In-R-Form Unique Sew-In Foam Stabilizer. I placed a couple of pins to keep everything together. Fabric selection for the craft bag

Cut the Bosal In-R-Form Unique Sew-In Foam Stabilizer and fabrics as per the cutting directions. The right products for making a bag

You need three fabrics to complete this craft bag. From ½ yard of the outer bag fabric (to give the bag a bit more stability, I’m using a canvas weight fabric for the outer bag sides), cut

• Two – 14½” x 16¼” (front back) • Two – 6½”x 16¼” (sides) From the black base fabric (2/3 yard), cut:

• Two – 2¼” x 14½” (front and back) • Two – 2¼” x 6½” (sides) • One – 6½” x 14½” (bottom) • One – 3” x 40½” (binding) • Two – 4” x 21” strips (straps)

Match the outer fabrics with black strips to the Bosal In-R-Form Unique Sew-In Foam Stabilizer of the same size.

Using the Omnigrip 20½” x 20½” square ruler, cut the Bosal In-R-Form Unique Sew-In Foam Stabilizer.

Before assembling the bag, I sewed all the fabrics, including the bottom, to the Bosal In-R-Form Unique Sew-In Foam Stabilizer to give it a quilted look.

Sew the two black 2¼” x 14½” pieces to the two 14½” x 16¼” outer bag fabrics. Sew the two black 2¼” x 6½” pieces to the two 64½” x 16¼” outer bag fabrics.

From the interior bag fabric (1 yard), cut:

• Two – 14¼” x 18” (back and front) • Two – 6¼” x 18” (sides) • One – 6¼” x 14¼” (bottom) • One – 12½” x 12½” (pocket) • One – 7½” x 12½” (pocket) From the Bosal In-R-Form Unique Sew-In Foam Stabilizer, cut:

• Two – 14½” x 18” (front and back) • Two – 6½” x 18” (sides) • One – 6½” x 14½” (bottom) 10

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Sew the black 2¼” x 14½” and the two 2¼” x 6½” strips to the outer bag fabrics.

Secure outer fabric to Bosal In-R-Form Unique Sew-In Foam Stabilizer by sewing a simple line.

Take the 4” x 21” black strips. Fold lengthwise in two and press. Fold each half lengthwise in half again and press. With the four corners sewn, the outer bag is completed. Pin and sew down straps to both the front and back panels. 4” x 21” black strips folded in two lengthwise twice and pressed

On the edge of the black strip which is open, sew a seam. I also sewed a small zigzag stitch at the end of both strips.

With both straps sewn to the front and back panels, sew the front, back and side panels to the base of the bag. Use the small Heirloom Clever Clips to help keep everything in place.

The completed outer bag

Sew a seam on the edge of the black strip.

Place a small mark 6” away from the ends of the two black strips. Center the ends of each strap 4” apart on the front and back panels. Place the 6” markings on the upper edge of each panel.

Heirloom clips keep everything in place while sewing.

Sew the four corners of the bag.

With the help of the following tools, Bosal In-R-Form Unique Sew-In Foam Stabilizer, Omnigrip Ruler, OLFA Splash Handle Rotary Cutter 45mm, Heirloom Double Sided Cutting Mat and small Heirloom Clever Clips, this project was not difficult to make.

Sew the strap to the bag ¾” from the top edge of the bag. Sew down on the side of the strap, then the bottom, then the second side stopping ¾” from the top edge of the bag. Sew the bag’s four corners.

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Heirloom, OLFA, and Omnigrid:

The right brands for the right quilting tools Let's work on the interior of the craft bag. To accomplish it I’ll need the help of the Omnigrip Ruler - 201/2'' x 201/2'' (52 x 52cm), an OLFA Splash Handle Rotary Cutter, and the Heirloom 24'' x 36'' Double Sided Cutting Mat and the Oliso Pro TG1600 Pro Plus Smart Iron.

For the wider pocket, I decided to place another set of parallel seams in the center. This will allow me to put smaller items such as knitting circular needles, a box of pins, pens and again many other smaller items.

Sew next to one long folded edge of both pocket fabrics.

Center and pin the 12½” x 12½” piece to the 14¼” x 18” piece of fabric then center and pin the 7½” x 12½” piece to the other 14¼” x 18” piece of fabric ensuring the folded edge with the seam is on top.

With the pockets in place, it’s time to sew the four sides of the inner bag to the 6¼” x 14¼” inner bag bottom. When doing so ensure the pocket openings are not facing the bottom piece.

Tools a quilter needs

I indicated all the fabrics you need for the craft bag in the cutting list. The only fabric not used was the one for the interior so let's use it! The first step is to take the two fabrics earmarked for the interior pockets. Turn the edge approximately ¼” on all four sides of both the 12½” x 12½” and the 7½” x 12½” pieces.

Stitch parallel lines down the center of the wider pocket.

Center and pin a pocket fabric to each of the inner bag fabric's 14¼” x 18” pieces.

Once the pocket fabrics are pinned to each of the 14¼” x 18” pieces of the inner bag fabric, make a stitch line on the sides and bottom of the pocket fabric. To give more strength to the pocket I highly recommend adding a second parallel stitch line next to the first.

Sew the four sides to the bag piece.

For the last step, take the four sides and sew them together. The inside of the craft bag is then completed.

Turn over all edges ¼” on each of the two fabrics earmarked for the pockets.

With the edges turned and pressed, I sewed a seam on the folded edge of one long side of each fabric for the pocket.

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Stitch two lines next to each other on the pocket sides and bottom.

I want this craft bag to be multi-purpose. For this reason, the large pocket will only be stitched down on three sides. These pocket sizes will allow me to easily put in a book, a decent size ruler, a large pattern, and many other items.

Completed bag

Inserting an inner lining for a quilted craft bag: Tools to make it easy Now I'm using Odif 606 Iron on Adhesive for the fabric to complete the bag.

Once the bag is fused, check the top of the bag to ensure the fabrics are squared with the Bosal In-R-Form Unique Sew-In Foam Stabilizer. Trim as required. The last step is to Trim and square off the upper portion of the bag. place a binding to the upper rim of the bag. This process is the same as putting on a binding to a quilt. Sew the binding to the inside of the bag first, then fold over the edge and sew it down to the front of the bag. Note: I strongly recommend sewing the binding down by machine, not by hand. This method adds strength to the bag.

Bosal Foam Stabilizers and Odif 606

I’m putting the inner bag in the craft bag and finishing the bag’s edge. The first step is to spray some Odif 606 Iron on Adhesive for the fabric inside of the outer bag. Once heated, the spray will help fuse both the inner and outer bags.

As you sew the binding, flip the bag’s handles up and sew them to the binding and bag.

After I sprayed the inside of the bag, I inserted the inner bag and carefully positioned it. Once I was happy with the placement, I used my Oliso Pro Smart Iron to press and fuse the inner bag to the outer bag. I started by fusing the bottom of the bag and then moved to the sides.

With the binding in place, I decided to place another seam right at the outer edge of the binding and again sewed down the straps of the bag as part of the process.

To activate Odif 606 press with hot iron.

Sew a seam at the outer edge of the binding.

Sew handles to binding and bag.

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Products to make making easy

Interior of craft bag

Now that the binding is on, the craft bag is completed. The bag has lots of storage space for most craft projects. With my limited to no experience in making mats and bags, I enjoyed trying out Bosal products as well as the Clover Fabric Tube Maker. What would I do differently? Lots, but then again, I did learn some things. I can see how using a fusible Bosal foam stabilizer made inserting the inner bag into the larger bag easier. While doing the whole process, I came up with a couple of other ways to maybe attempt to bag another bag. I know for sure I’ll make another mat; one that’s so much bigger for my studio floor where my cutting table is. I can see it now - so colorful. Before I end this feature, I invite everyone to go see all the different sizes that Bosal products are sold in. I used a package of 18” x 58”. They’re also available in a 36” x 58” size and 58” x 15 yards. Think of all the projects you can make with these products, not just bags, and they’re so easy to use! Thanks for following along. Completed bag

Paul Léger

www.paullegerquilts.com

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OLFA cutters cut through denim with ease Make a denim quilt Paul Léger

When I was presented with the Gütermann Demin Thread Box for these posts, I knew exactly what I wanted to create, a clothinginspired denim quilt.

Supplies for this project

This quilt measures 56” x 70” before quilting.

• Gütermann Denim Love Nostalgia Box Denim Thread 100m 12 Shades

• OLFA Deluxe Ergonomic Handle Rotary Cutter 60mm

• OLFA Tungsten Tool Steel Rotary Blade 60mm - 5pcx

• OLFA 24'' x 36'' Double Sided Rotary Mat • Oliso Pro TG1600 Pro Plus Smart Iron • Omnigrip Ruler - 81/2'' x 24'' (21.6 x 61cm) • Omnigrip Ruler - 201/2'' x 201/2'' (52 x 52cm) • SoftKUT Dressmakers' Scissors - 81/4'' (21cm) • Fairfield Quilter's 80/20 Quilt Batting - 229 x 274cm (90'' x 108'')

• HeatNBond Non-Woven Light Weight Fusible Interfacing - 50.8cm x 22.8m (20'' x 25yds)

• UNIQUE Quilting Clever Clips Small - 12 pcs

The fabrics for this quilt are from old pairs of well-used and love jeans. When I got the idea for this quilt, I didn’t have the required quantity of jeans. Luckily, when I put out a call to friends for their old jeans, they answered. I didn’t care what color or condition they were in as long as they were not stained with paint and such. Photos by Paul Léger

Clothing-inspired denim quilt

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I needed to square off each pant leg, As the length and width of the pant legs are longer and wider than the rulers I have, I used both the Omnigrip Ruler - 81/2'' x 24'' (21.6 x 61cm) and the Omnigrip Ruler - 201/2'' x 201/2'' (52 x 52cm). I butted the edge of both rulers together just below the leg’s inner seam and ensured both rulers were perfectly aligned. Then I trimmed the top and side edges.

I received more pairs of jeans than I could use. I made sure to start cutting up the worst pairs first. The unused jeans, which are still in good condition, will be donated once I’ve completed the quilt.

Cutting the leg off a pair of jeans

I used a pair of SoftKUT Dressmakers' Scissors - 81/4'' (21cm) to cut along the inseam of the jean’s leg. Nine pairs of used jeans

For most of my quilting, I use a 45mm rotary cutter such as the OLFA Splash Handle Rotary Cutter 45mm. Since I’m cutting through several layers of denim, I’ll be using the OLFA Deluxe Ergonomic Handle Rotary Cutter 60mm. When I start a project, I make sure I have spare rotary blades for the cutter I’m using. Therefore, I got a package of OLFA Tungsten Tool Steel Rotary Blade 60mm.

Using two rulers to square off a pant leg

Cutting a pant leg open

I carefully moved both rulers ensuring they were aligned with the two sides which were just trimmed before trimming the other two edges.

Even though these jeans have been repeatedly worn and washed, the outer seams on the legs are fairly straight. Therefore, I used the seam as a guide to line up my ruler to remove the bottom hem.

Trim the third and fourth sides of the pant leg.

Repeat the above steps to trim a total of 14 pant legs.

OLFA Ergonomic Rotary Cutter 60mm and a package of OLFA Tungsten Tool Steel Rotary Blades 60mm.

It’s important to have the extra blades because metal, such as a zipper, a button and grommets are used in the construction of the quilt. To make this quilt, I started by cutting the legs off five pairs of jeans. As per the photo, the jeans were cut right below the crotch seam.

Remove the bottom hem.

With everything lining up, I cut off the bottom hem of each pant leg.

Omnigrip rulers and OLFA 60mm rotary cutter

This completes the first steps for the making of this quilt.

Cut off the hem.

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Make every project perfect with your favourite Gütermann threads! Gütermann Thread is available in your local sewing and quilting stores.

How to cut and piece denim from old jeans to make quilt blocks My first idea for making this quilt was going to be simple - take the pant legs and sew them end to end, as shown in the photo. Once I auditioned the clothing on the denim, I didn’t like the look or the size, so I took it all apart and came up with plan B.

Note: When cutting out the blocks, it’s not important to keep the leg’s seam centered in the block. If some of the seams are more to one side of the block than the other, it’s ok.

together with the hole and rip toward the center of the block.

When possible, sew defects in the pant legs together. Cut a 14” x 14” square from each pant leg.

From the same pant leg, I cut out a 7¼” x 14” rectangle.

First attempt at the denim quilt

Plan B is to make large blocks. The size of these blocks was not difficult to determine. I measured the width of all 10 pant legs. The narrowest pant leg width was approximately 14½”. I could therefore certainly get 14” x 14” squares. Unfortunately, none of the pant legs were long enough to get two blocks, but I got rectangles. Once every block was cut, I cut 7¼” x 14” rectangles from what was remaining from the legs. I also calculated I’d need an additional two pairs of jeans for a total of 14 pant legs.

The fix for this was simple. From the upper part of one of the pair of jeans, I cut a larger square. I then put a piece of HeatnBond Non-Woven Light Weight Fusible Interfacing - 50.8cm x 22.8m (20'' x 25yds) large enough to cover the hole. I then fused it to the inside of the piece of denim.

Cut a 7¼” x 14” rectangle from each pant leg.

I then sewed the 7¼” x 14” rectangles by mix matching them into pairs to make six more 14” x 14” blocks. You need a total of 20 blocks to make this quilt. As I was sewing, I noticed two rectangles with flaws; one had a hole and the other one had a rip. I made sure to sew them

Fuse a piece of HeatnBond fusible interfacing to the back of a piece of denim.

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I adjusted the TrueCut 360° Circle Cutter to make an approximate 6” circle.

Use the TrueCut 360° Circle Cutter cut a circle.

It's now time to select a thread from the Gütermann Denim Love Nostalgia Box for machine applique.

Select a thread from the Gütermann Denim Love Nostalgia Box.

Cut circle.

I machined appliqued a single blanket stitch around the circle.

Cut circle

I then fused the circle over the section with the torn denim.

Machine applique a single blanket stitch around the circle.

I enjoyed selecting and using thread from the Gütermann Denim Love Nostalgia Box for my machine applique. I’m now looking forward to using more of these threads.

Fuse circle over torn denim. Gütermann Denim Love Nostalgia Box Denim Thread 100m 12 Shades

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Gütermann Denim Love Nostalgia Box INSPIRES a creative denim quilt The plan is to complete the quilt top by adding pockets where needed and attaching the shirt and jeans to the denim backdrop.

The first part of the quilt top is completed.

Because the hems on the jeans are thick, I cut them off.

First part of the quilt top is completed.

Cut off the hems.

I took a pair of child’s jeans and removed as much of the back as possible.

I then sewed all openings shut, including the pockets and the zipper flap.

As I was getting ready, I noticed there were a few spots where the fabric was very thin. I showed you how to cover holes, but now I got another idea, pockets! I took some back pockets off the upper part of the jeans and placed them where the fabric was extremely thin. I selected a matching gold thread to sew the pocket in place.

Pocket placed over a hole or where the fabric is thin

While I was sewing pockets onto the quilt top, I also took the time to randomly select a label from three faux leather labels available in the Gütermann Denim Love Nostalgia Box to sew onto the quilt top. Why not make it more fun?

Sew all openings shut. Remove as much of the back as possible.

Using my Oliso PRO TG1600 Pro Plus Smart Iron, I ironed the shirt flat.

Trim away the pockets and any other extra pieces of fabric.

Trim away excess fabric.

Iron the shirt flat.

Faux leather labels

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After ironing the shirt, I sewed the collar down, then removed the back of the shirt including the sleeves.

Sew down shirt and waistband.

The last step is to turn the quilt top over and cut out the denim covered by the jeans on the front of the quilt top.

Remove the back of the shirt.

I carefully placed the jeans on the quilt top laying them as flat as possible. I then sewed them in place. I didn’t sew down the waist at this time. The waist is sewn down once the shirt is tucked in. Note: As jeans are made to go on people of many shapes, there is no way to get them to lay 100% flat. Don’t be surprised if there are a couple of small bulges on the upper section of the jeans. Some of these will disappear with quilting.

Cut away the fabric from the back of the quilt top where the front of the jeans is sewn on.

I didn’t remove the denim from behind the shirt because to do so would leave that part of the quilt considerably thinner than the rest of the quilt. The quilt top is finished. If you haven’t done it yet, add the labels which are included in the Gütermann Denim Love Nostalgia Box; someone will love the message.

Sew jeans into place.

I tucked the shirt into the jeans and laid it on the quilt top. Then I sewed the shirt down along all sides. Once the shirt was fully secured to the quilt top, I sewed down the waistband.

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A label adds love to the quilt

Parallel line stitching: A fun way to add interest to your quilt Another way I added interest to the quilt was to play with the spacing between the sets of parallel lines. On my machine, I was able to use a seam guide to help me stay parallel to each line.

Before I start, I just want to remind everyone that there’s still time to add pockets or labels to your quilt top. Easier to do it now than once the quilting is completed.

Using large safety pins to bast quilt

Sew cute labels to a quilt top.

I placed the Gütermann Denim Love Nostalgia Box next to my sewing machine ready to select and change thread colors as I progressed with the quilting.

As I was putting this quilt together, I debated whether or not to put batting in this quilt as it will be fairly warm with the weight of the denim. Then I remembered the definition of a quilt: A top, a batting and a backing. What batting to use was another debate I had. The determining factor was the weight of the quilt. Therefore, I chose the Fairfield Low-Loft Quilt Batting, a lowloft polyester which is lightweight. The lightweight was very important to me.

Add interest by changing the distance between lines.

It was fun playing with quilting lines, changing the thread and colors found in the Gütermann Denim Love Nostalgia Box.

Gütermann Denim Love Nostalgia Box

I decided to have fun with the quilting. In addition to changing thread color as I went from section to section, I used parallel line stitching going in different directions to add interest.

Contrasting thread colors on denim quilt top

With the quilting completed, there’s one step left to be accomplished, and that’s to add the binding

Fairfield Low-Loft Quilt Batting

With the backing and batting in place, I used large safety pins to baste all layers together. Quilting using parallel line

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Binding a denim quilt with strips from old jeans: It takes pant legs! It’s hard to pick a favorite, but I’d say it was the Gütermann Denim Love Nostalgia Box filled with 12 shades of denim thread. Ready to bind the quilt?

Once all seams are completed, trim ¼” away from the seam.

Make a 5” wide strip.

From the 5” wide strip cut two 2½” strips.

Gütermann Denim Love Nostalgia Box Denim Thread 100m 12 Shades

To make the binding for the quilt, I need 2½” strips. I can get these strips from leftover denim from the pant legs I cut earlier, or from another pair of old jeans. The length of the strip depends on the length of the pant leg. Looking at what I have, it looks like the average length is 25”. With the quilt measuring 56” x 70”, I calculated 10 or 11 strips should be enough.

On both edges of the strips make a 45o line.

Trim ¼” away from the seam.

Press seams open using an Oliso Pro TG1600 Pro Plus Smart Iron.

Make a 45° line on each end of the strips. Press seams open.

Take a pant leg and lay it flat, and square off two sides with the Omnigrip 81/2'' x 24'' ruler.

Using the 45° lines at the end of the strips as a guide, sew all strips together as shown in the following photo.

Fold the binding lengthwise, and wrong side together and press the full length.

Square off two edges of a pant leg.

Sew on the 45° line.

Press binding wrong sides together.

With two edges of the pant leg squared off, make a 5” wide strip using the full length of the pant leg.

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Sew the binding on the back of the quilt.

Sew binding on the back of the quilt.

To reduce bulk in the corners, snip off the corners of the quilt.

From the top of the quilt, sew down the binding using thread from the Gütermann Denim Love Nostalgia Box.

UNIQUE quilting Clever Clips hold the binding in place.

Sew binding.

The denim quilt is completed. Using the OLFA 60mm Deluxe Ergonomic Handle Rotary Cutter to cut through multiple layers of jeans was the best tool to do the job. Decorating the quilt with threads from the Gütermann Denim Love Nostalgia Box was a fun adventure. Now I’m looking forward to starting another project using old jeans.

Snip corners off the quilt.

Fold the binding over the edge of the quilt and use UNIQUE Quilting Small Clever Clips to hold the binding in place.

Paul Léger

www.paullegerquilts.com

Completed quilt

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Unleash your quilting creativity with the

PFAFF passport 2.0: Lots to love! Claire Haillot

I’m so excited to share great quilting ideas to get you to explore your quilting abilities while discovering the PFAFF passport 2.0 sewing machine. If you’re a quilting enthusiast, you know how important it is to have a reliable sewing machine even when heading out to a quilting class or retreat. The PFAFF passport 2.0 is a perfect sewing machine for beginners just as much as it is for more seasoned quilters looking for a lighter sewing machine to carry around. The PFAFF passport 2.0 is loaded with features and designed for on-the-go convenience, thanks to its lightweight and compact design. Weighing in at only 13.9 lbs / 6.3 kg, this sewing machine is perfect for taking to classes or travelling. It also makes it perfect for use in small spaces as it takes up minimal shelf storage when you can’t quite make time for quilting. This sewing machine offers you no limits, just the freedom to create wherever and whenever you want.

This feature is unique to PFAFF machines and ensures you get even fabric feed without any puckering or stretching. The PFAFF passport 2.0 also comes with a large number of stitches, including 70 beautiful 7mm stitches, utility stitches, buttonholes, decorative stitches, quilt stitches, needle art stitches, and satin stitches. You also get a beautiful applique pin stitch that’s easy to achieve and customizable. What makes the PFAFF passport 2.0 fantastic is that, although it’s a smallsized machine, it has great features that are usually only for higher-priced machines. Features such as:

The PFAFF passport 2.0 features One of the standout features of the PFAFF passport 2.0 is the Original IDT System, which precisely feeds all types of fabric from the top and bottom for perfect stitching every time.

Your PFAFF passport 2.0 is ready to go wherever you go.

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• Start/Stop button, which allows you to sew without the foot control.

• Full control over your sewing speed with the speed slider.

• External Feed Dog Drop feature lets

you conveniently lower the feed dogs from the back of the free arm to get started with your free-motion quilting project.

• LED lights that illuminate your

sewing area without shadows.

• Built-In needle threader. • Needle up/down positioning. • Immediate tie-off. To help you get started with your PFAFF passport 2.0, I prepared two videos. The first video demonstrates how to thread the sewing machine. Let’s face it, it can get quite stressful and confusing when threading your machine. So, I made the video to guide you through the process and understand where your tension problems can potentially come from, as threading your machine correctly is key to great tension. Ever wondered how to position your thread spool on a machine? I’m sure you’re not alone. That’s why I made the second video to show how to position a large or small spool horizontally for sewing. It’s important to note that only specialty threads should be positioned vertically on a sewing machine. The PFAFF passport 2.0 is a high-quality, reliable, and versatile sewing machine that’s perfect for all types of sewing projects. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sewing enthusiast, this machine is sure to take your sewing to the next level.

Your PFAFF passport 2.0 is loaded with great features.

Playing with color and movement: Making placemats with jelly rolls I’m using the machine to create a simple yet fun project: making placemats using jelly rolls.

instructions 1. The first step in making these placemats is to break open the jelly roll kit and start playing with the strips. 2. Pick eight strips and align them side by side. Play with them, rotate them, and see which ones play best with one another.

Using jelly roll strips to create placemats using the PFAFF passport 2.0

For this project, I’m playing with jelly rolls to create movement in our placemats. Let's say it’s a follow up to last year’s Improvisational quilting for beginners. The jelly roll kit I’m using consisting of 20 strips and 3 yards of a neutral fabric for the backing and binding. However, you can adjust the supplies based on how many placemats you want to make and how much jelly roll you need to create a specific look. I know I have too many strips for the project, but the intent is to study how their texture and color play with one another so I couldn’t limit the supply to just eight strips. materials fabric • jelly roll kit • 3yds [2.7m] of a neutral fabric • crib size light batting thread • 50wt thread for piecing • 40wt thread for quilting notions • Universal needle • Quilting needle • Odif 505 adhesive spray • 45mm rotary cutter • Omnigrid self-healing mat • Omnigrip 8½’’ x 24’’ ruler

3. Take pictures so you can remember the combinations you like the most. If you find it overwhelming, begin by simply positioning them from lightest to darkest and work from there.

One set of 8 strips makes three placemats

5. Cut the piece into three equal units of about 14½” x 16½”. You now have three placemats ready for quilting. You can proceed to make more placemats with the other jelly rolls.

Playing with jelly roll strips to create movement in placemats

Piecing strips together is incredibly easy with the PFAFF passport 2.0

4. Once you decide on your eight strips, stitch them together. I used the PFAFF passport 2.0 sewing machine with the optional ¼" Quilting Foot for IDT System to precisely feed my strips through the sewing machine. Piecing strips together is incredibly easy with this machine. Once the strips are pieced together, you’ll end up with a large piece measuring 16½” by approximately 40”.

This project is a simple and fun way to experiment with color and movement in your quilting projects. By playing with jelly rolls, you can create different looks or ‘moods’ to your projects. But don’t start quilting your placemats just yet! Next, I’ll play with the second unit to create another design for a placemat that will look completely different!

Photos by Claire Haillot

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Color and movement:

Creating a grid design with the

PFAFF passport 2.0

Color and movement can transform a simple placemat into a beautiful quilted project. Let's create a grid effect and add a new dimension to the design.

3. Stitch the ¾” strips along each cut while trying to match the strip alignment. The placemat will begin to look uneven, but don’t worry, I’ll cut at the end of the project to make it a rectangle again.

Creating a grid to add movement to the placemats using the PFAFF passport 2.0

Instructions 1. Cut four ¾” strips from the neutral fabric. Prior to cutting, I recommend using Mary Ellen’s Best Press on the back of the neutral fabric and placemat to help you sew such thin strips to the project.

5. Stitch the ¾” strips along each cut while trying to match the strip alignment.

Sewing the ¾” strips to form a grid on the placemat Sewing the ¾” strips into the placemat creates an indentation.

4. Position the ruler to create a perpendicular cut to the 60-degree strips. Cut the following lines at a 3” increment.

Once the strips are pieced together to form a grid, cut the placemat to form a rectangle. My placemat measures 10½” x 16½”, but before cutting to the same size, look at the size of your dinner plates to determine the size you need. The PFAFF passport 2.0 sewing machine with the optional ¼” Quilting Foot for IDT System precisely fed my strips through the machine and made it easy to piece the units together to form the grid. This project is just the right size to test sewing smaller strips at an angle. Once you make this piece, you’ll feel more confident to experiment with movement and color on other personal projects.

Sewing on ¾”strips add movement to the placemat.

2. Position the ruler at a 60-degree angle on the placemat and begin cutting. Cut the following lines at a 3” increment.

Cutting into the placemat unit at a 60-degree angle

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Cutting perpendicularly to the 60-degree strips Piecing the grid strips together is incredibly easy with the PFAFF passport 2.0

SCHMETZ MAKES NEEDLE SHOPPING EASY! Make your next needle purchase an easy one with Schmetz’ simple-to-use needle guide. Needle Size

Needle Type

130/21

125/20

120/19

110/18

100/16

90/14

80/12

75/11

70/10

65/9

60/8

Universal

Stretch

Jersey

Jeans

Leather

Microtex

Quilting

Embroidery

Metallic

Topstitch

Specialty

Spring

Hemstitch

Double Eye

Quick Threading

Super NonStick

Overlock

Precision stitching on the

PFAFF passport 2.0

3. Cut four ¾” strips from the neutral fabric. Position the ruler at a 60-degree angle on the placemat and begin cutting. Cut the following lines at a 3” increment. Prior to cutting, I recommend using Mary Ellen’s Best Press on the back of the neutral fabric and placemat to help you sew such thin strips to the project.

Let’s go one step further with color and movement to transform a simple placemat into a beautiful quilted project.

Creating various strip sizes and a grid to add movement to the placemats using the PFAFF passport 2.0

Instructions

Placemat foundation after cutting and rotating fabric

2. Cut a 1¼” x 14” and a 2¼” x 14” rectangle from the neutral fabric and add to the placemat.

1. Position the foundation placemat on the cutting mat and cut in the middle of the third and sixth strip. Then take the middle piece and rotate it 180 degrees.

Cutting into the placemat unit at a 60-degree angle

Adding the neutral fabric to the foundation unit

Placemat foundation before cutting and rotating fabric

4. Stitch the ¾” strips along each cut while trying to match the strip alignment. The placemat will begin to look uneven, but don’t worry, it will get cut at the end of the project to make it a rectangle again.

I could stop ‘exploring’ here as it is a nicelooking placemat. But I felt like adding the grid once more to see how it would look.

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6. Stitch the ¾” strips along each cut while trying to match the strip alignment. Again, the placemat will look uneven, but we’ll cut it once completed to make it a rectangle again.

Sewing the ¾” strips into the placemat creates an indentation

5. Position the ruler to create a perpendicular cut to the 60-degree strips. Cut the following lines at a 3” increment.

Sewing the ¾’’ strips to form the grid on the placemat

Once you piece the strips together to form a grid, you can cut the placemat to form a rectangle. My placemat measures 11” x 17”, but before cutting to the same size, look at the size of your plates to determine the size you need.

Cutting perpendicularly to the 60-degree strips

Piecing the project together is incredibly easy with the PFAFF passport 2.0

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Throughout this project, I used the PFAFF Passport 2.0 sewing machine with the optional ¼" Quilting Foot for IDT System. This feature allowed me to precisely feed my strips through the machine and make it easy to piece the units together to form the grid. If you’re looking for a fun and creative project, give this one a try. It’s just the right size to experiment with color and movement. Having made this piece, you’ll feel more confident to experiment on your own project. Playing with color and movement can transform a simple placemat into a beautiful quilted project that is both practical and aesthetically pleasing.

Choosing a quilting design for your quilt

movement and dimension Quilting is a great way to add texture and dimension to any project, and placemats are no exception. I’m taking it to the next level by quilting the placemats using the PFAFF passport 2.0 sewing machine to add a new dimension.

Quilting placemats to add movement is easy with the PFAFF passport 2.0.

When it comes to quilting, choosing a design can be one of the most difficult parts of the process. My trick is to use my smartphone image app to test out various patterns until I find one that pleases me. For this project, I found that circles added the perfect amount of movement to the placemats.

To free-motion quilt the circles, I lowered the feed dogs on the PFAFF passport 2.0 sewing machine by moving the switch at the back of the free arm to the left. Then, I attached the optional open toe free-motion foot and set the machine for straight stitching. I also adjusted the speed on the machine to ensure that I can take my time to create the circles.

After quilting my three placemats, I added the binding and chose a curved decorative stitch to machine stitch the binding (stitch #40). This created a beautiful finished edge that harmonized with the quilting movement of the placemats. Here’s a video explaining how I stitched the decorative stitch on the binding and maneuvered the corners.

One of my favorite features on the PFAFF passport 2.0 is the needle up/down function. This function allows you to set the needle on the down position so it automatically stops in the placemat when you stop quilting. This ensures your quilting motion remains on track whenever you need to stop. The tie-off function is another great feature that makes quilting easier. Once activated, you simply press the reverse button while actively sewing for the stitching to stop and proceed to the automatic tie-off.

The PFAFF passport 2.0 was the perfect machine for this project. Its features made quilting easy and the end result was a set of beautiful placemats. Playing with color and movement can transform a simple placemat into a beautiful quilted project that’s both practical and aesthetically pleasing. Thank you for joining us on this journey and seeing the quilting process using the PFAFF passport 2.0 sewing machine.

Drawing quilting designs using my smartphone image app

Claire Haillot

quiltingwithclaire.com/wp

The PFAFF passport 2.0 was the right machine to create this project.

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Unboxing and setting up the Husqvarna Viking PLATINUM™ Q160 Elaine Theriault

Husqvarna Viking PLATINUM™ Q160

Hello everyone, and welcome to a super exciting feature. I'm bursting to share my experience with you! Years ago, when I first took up quilting, I saw a sit-down quilting machine with a long throat space. The quilting machine was an industrial model and wasn't for sale, but I did get to spend a wee bit of time playing with it. What freedom! While I can quilt on my domestic sewing machine, I struggle to get comfortable and find that I've got my arms out like I'm trying to fly, resulting in neck pain and frustration. I think back to the industrial quilting machine, and I remember how easy it was to use. However, I'm thrilled to share my unboxing experience with the Husqvarna Viking PLATINUM™ Q160, a stationary quilting machine, which is the equivalent of the early industrial machine I saw, but way better. So, what is a stationary quilting machine? It's similar to your domestic sewing machine in that you move the quilt under the needle. The PLATINUM™ Q160 is a dedicated machine for quilting (although I did other stuff with it – wait for that), but the beauty of this machine is the amount of space you have to

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manipulate your quilt. Add in the fact that the throat area sits flush with a large, flat surface, and you'll be in for a treat when you sit down to quilt.

There's a detailed set of instructions for the assembly, and it's always a good idea to check that you have all the bits and pieces before you start.

I'll share with you step-by-step just how easy it is to set up the PLATINUM™ Q160. A heavy-duty, adjustable height table is part of the PLATINUM™ Q160 package. And did you know there's a built-in stitch regulator? More on that later. While one person can set the PLATINUM™ Q160 up, there are several spots where an extra pair of hands are welcome. The actual quilting machine is heavy, so make sure you have someone who can lift it. You'll find all the hex tools required to set up the table and the machine in the boxes. Let's have a peek at what the setup is all about. The PLATINUM™ Q160 comes in two boxes, one for the table and one for the quilting machine and accessories. The flat one is the table, so it's best to start with that one.

Assembly instructions

The top of the table comes in three sections – the two side pieces and the shelf where the quilting machine sits. Assemble the table upside down; so start by laying out those three pieces and insert the screws.

The three sections of the tabletop are upside down and ready for assembly (note – do not use the long screws)

There's a saying – do as I say, not as I do? Well, that's the case here. I grabbed four screws from the bag and didn't check the length. So in the photo above, I used the long screws, not the short screws. I must admit I wondered why those screws were so long as I installed them! Notice the long slot where the shelf will be attached to the side pieces? Place the shelf in the lowest position (which in the picture is the top of the slot) since the tabletop is upside down.

The adjustable legs for the table

A little help from my foot to push the legs into the bracket

the table first and, before putting the PLATINUM™ Q160 into the table, test the height. It's much easier to adjust the height if you don't have to deal with the weight of the quilting machine.

You may need a gentle push to get those legs entirely into the bracket. I used my foot, and it worked just fine.

The base of the legs fits into the square brackets on the two side sections of the tabletop – remember, you are building the table upside down!

The holes in the legs must match up with the holes in the brackets of the tabletop. Now you can use more of the short screws to secure the legs in place.

Use the short screws to put the tabletop together. I was so excited to get started that I didn't pay attention, and yep – I had to take them out and use the short ones.

The screw holes on the legs must match those on the brackets on the tabletop.

Use the short screws to attach the shelf to the sides of the tabletop.

Once the tabletop is together, it's time to put the legs on. The beauty of these legs is that they’re adjustable. So if you want to sit down to quilt, you can, or if you want to stand to quilt, you make the legs longer. I highly recommend you construct Photos by Elaine Theriault

Inserting the top section of the table legs

Here's a little tip for inserting those legs. They fit snugly, and you must ensure the leg section stays parallel to the floor so both ends slide into the brackets simultaneously. If the leg section goes crooked, you'll have difficulty getting them in the proper position, and this is where the second pair of hands is convenient.

To further stabilize the table, the long screws secure the legs to the middle of the tabletop. Near the bottom of the photo, you can see one of the short screws for securing the three tabletop pieces.

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You can use the height of your sewing table as a guide. But remember, if your sewing machine sits on top of the table rather than in the table, you’re working at a different height than the PLATINUM™ Q160, as it sits down in the table. I found it easier to flip the table upside down to adjust, so you’re only pulling up or pushing down on the bottom section of the legs, not the much heavier tabletop.

The long screws secure the legs to the tabletop

The last part of the tabletop assembly is to take the bottom part of the legs and insert them into the top part of the legs. There are notches on the bottom section of the legs and release handles on the top. Select the desired table height. When I set up the machine for sit-down quilting, I use the bottom-most setting, so the table is the lowest it can be. I find it very comfortable, and I easily quilted for hours.

If you follow the instructions in the assembly book, this table is super easy to set up. If I had not messed up those long and short screws, I could’ve had it assembled in 30 minutes! Now comes the fun part – unboxing the PLATINUM™ Q160. OK – so this has a stitch regulator and wires and cables, and will it be complicated? Nope – it's so easy, and it only takes another 30 minutes to set up the machine and get ready to quilt.

Unpacking the quilting machine

I have some tips on height adjustment coming up. Remember, the table is still upside down at this point.

The shipping box for the PLATINUM™ Q160

The adjustable table legs

Before adjusting the height, add the crossbar on the bottom at the back and the leveling feet. It's best to have someone help you flip the table right side up, and now you can test the table's height. Sit down at the table with the chair you plan to use. Is it comfortable? What is the position of your elbows relative to the table? Are your arms parallel to the tabletop? Could you sit here all day?

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Be mindful of the weight of the quilting machine. It's heavy, and it's best to unbox it with two people. Carefully tipping the box helped get the machine out, rather than trying to pull the box off. Keep the pink foam pieces together, as you don’t want the machine to come out of the box and fall over. The stitch regulator comes in the flat box inside, so remove it before you take the machine out.

The box containing the stitch regulator insert

Here's the quilting machine after lifting off the protective foam. OH – this is so exciting! You get some practice spools of thread, a fantastic bobbin winder, the User's Guide, cords, and some accessories.

So far, so easy, and we're almost done. The next step is to remove the table insert with the built-in stitch regulator from the box. Slide it into the table from the front, ensuring the two cables don’t get caught along the edges of the quilting machine.

Adding the thread rack to the back of the quilting machine

The PLATINUM™ Q160 in its protective foam

I set aside the extra stuff and lifted the machine into the table. It looks amazing, and I can't wait to start quilting.

Now it's time to add the color touch screen to the front of the PLATINUM™ Q160. It's a simple job requiring two screws. The hinge on the back of the touch screen may be tight, and you must pivot the hinge to make it easy to insert the screws. When you start to quilt, adjust the touch screen so you can readily see the controls.

The stitch regulator insert

After you push the insert flush with the front of the table, you may have to adjust the position of the quilting machine so it sits tight against the insert.

The PLATINUM™ Q160 in the table

The instructions to set up the PLATINUM™ Q160 are in the User's Guide, so be sure to get it out. You'll find all the necessary hex keys in the small bag of supplies.

The color touch screen is horizontal to allow access to insert the screws.

See how I pivoted the touch screen to a vertical position. Next, connect the touch screen to the PLATINUM™ Q160 with the short cable. Since this is the only external cable, the quilting machine looks clean and sleek, and your quilt won't get caught.

Bring the quilting machine forward to meet the insert.

Tools to add the accessories

Add the four-spool thread stand to the back of the PLATINUM™ Q160. The screws are already in place; loosen the screws and position the holes in the thread stand over the screws. Tighten the screws up, and the thread stand is in place.

The cable to connect the touch screen to the quilting machine

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Swing the two brackets, under the front of the insert, into place and use the black knobs to secure the stitch regulation insert to the tabletop. Oh my --- it's so easy, and it's almost time to play!

Plug the connector from the stitch regulator into the back of the machine, and don't forget to attach the power cord.

I mentioned there are two cables with the stitch regulator. One connects the stitch regulator to the quilting machine, and the other attaches to the foot pedal. So now you can operate the quilting machine automatically or with the foot pedal. More on that up ahead. Make sure they’re connected well; it looks like I could’ve attached them better.

Knobs secure the insert to the quilting table

Cables for the stitch regulator and the power cord

Connect the foot pedal.

That's it! I can't believe how simple it was to set up the table and the quilting machine. It didn't take long, and I was impressed with the quality of the entire machine. And here it is – the Husqvarna Viking PLATINUM™ Q160 is set up, turned on, and ready to quilt!

The Husqvarna Viking PLATINUM™ Q160

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Exploring the features and benefits of the

Husqvarna Viking PLATINUM™ Q160 The Top Thread Tension Assembly looks a bit different from the tension discs on a regular sewing machine. But the principle is the same, and it’s easy to use and easy to adjust. Make sure the thread is well seated in the tension discs, and the thread is in the spring.

We’re exploring the controls. You’ll run into trouble if you’re unfamiliar with free motion quilting and don’t know your machine. Getting comfortable with free motion quilting requires lots of practice. Thankfully, learning the controls on the PLATINUM™ Q160 takes a lot less time, and once you know the controls, you can focus on your free motion. All the controls are on the color touch screen.

The thread mast for four cones of thread

Threading this machine is very similar to threading a regular sewing machine, but with some differences. There are more thread guides; the second one you come to is the Three-Hole Thread Guide, which prevents the thread from looping as it feeds through the thread path.

The color touch screen

The screen is very responsive, and the intuitive controls make learning easy. Before we get to the controls, here are some tips for threading the PLATINUM™ Q160. There are short videos to show you how to load the bobbin, adjust the tension, plus more. Check them out, as they’re worth your while to review. Some of the included accessories are slightly different, but there’s still lots of great information. Depending on your needle and thread combination, you can quilt with multiple threads, but for the most part, I only quilted with one thread at a time. The spool holder has room for four thread cones, so if you need more than one thread, it’s a good idea to put the other colors on the thread holder until you need them to prevent them from falling off the table.

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The instructions state to use all three holes, but I tend to use only two. As long as you’re getting good tension and no loops, pick the number of holes that work for you. Sometimes a more delicate thread requires all three or only two. You must be willing to experiment with your quilting machine to understand what settings work with which thread combinations. What works for a particular thread may not work for a different kind of thread. Feel free to experiment. I found the PLATINUM™ Q160 was up and running with no fuss!

It’s great to see the tension setting on the touch screen. Once you get a good combination for a particular thread type, it’s easy to make a note so you can easily duplicate the setting for a thread type. If your current quilting machine doesn’t have this setting, then it’s a huge deal!

The Top Thread Tension Assembly

In this photo, the tension setting is 85. If I turn the tension dial to the right (towards the back of the machine), the number increases, resulting in a tighter top tension. If I turn the tension knob to the left (towards the front of the machine), the number decreases, loosening the top tension. I love how this number on the touch screen takes the guesswork out of figuring out tension.

The Three-Hole Thread Guide

The touch screen with a tension setting of 85

You’ll see several spiral thread guides. Be sure the thread goes through the center of the spiral and not twisted around the metal as you will not get good stitches and likely end up with a broken thread.

I use a medium brown as the top thread and cream in the bobbin. So, if there are tension issues, they show up.

M-class bobbin

A spiral thread guide

The PLATINUM™ Q160 comes with an excellent bobbin winder. Minimal assembly is required (screwing in the spool holder and the thread stand), but then you’re ready to go.

The last thread guide is near the needle. Once the thread is through this last guide, thread the eye of the needle from front to back. This guide keeps the thread in the groove on the needle and gives you a better stitch. The thread is not in the eye of the needle here, so it shows up at an angle when it should be parallel to the needle.

Perfect tension on the back of the project

The bobbin winder

The last thread guide above the needle

There’s a speed control on the bobbin winder, great for winding the bobbin slowly (recommended for an invisible thread or lighter thread weights). The bobbin fits into a bobbin case and is easy to insert. It may seem cumbersome initially, but after several bobbin changes, you’ll learn to do it by touch, and it’s so easy.

It was easy to thread the PLATINUM™ Q160, and you can use any thread you wish. Just be mindful of the guidelines for various thread types; you may need to loosen or tighten the tension to get the desired results. Now let’s talk about the bobbin. Oh my – you’ll love the bobbins for the PLATINUM™ Q160. There’re the M-class bobbins, and look at the size of them! Depending on the thread weight you’re using, you can quilt for a very long time without having to change the bobbin.

OH – look at the back of the test! The tension is perfect as none of the brown thread showed through to the back and vice versa. I did a happy dance at that moment, and I will say that for all the projects I worked on, it was super easy to adjust the tension (if I needed to). I’m very impressed with the quality of the stitch.

I had so much fun just playing, that I soon filled up my test sandwich and had to make another. You must try quilting on the PLATINUM™ Q160, so be sure to call your local dealer and request a demo. Having a huge flat surface to work on is amazing, and although my piece was small, I had zero issues with running out of room with my larger projects. The table is smooth, and well, I had so much fun, I could’ve quilted all day! And I did!

Messing around with free motion

Speed control on the bobbin winder

It’s time to test the tension on the PLATINUM™ Q160. Before getting to your actual project, it’s essential to test the tension. I make quilt sandwiches with muslin for the front and back and batting scraps. The muslin helps me to see if there are any tension issues.

Now that we know the tension is correct and everything is working just fine, we need to look at the touch screen and figure out how to use the various settings. I highly recommend taking the User’s Guide, several practice sandwiches, and walking through all the commands. Push those buttons to see what they do. There are several ways of operating the PLATINUM™ Q160, and you may find one works better in a certain situation, while another works better elsewhere.

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You can use the Pause/Play button instead of the foot pedal to start the quilting process, but instead of removing your hands from your work to touch the function, tap on the foot pedal, and the machine stops. Not many people know this feature, and I love using the foot pedal to stop the stitching process.

Now there is one other feature in Manual mode that I love. Do you see the big B in the white oval? That’s a basting function. Yes! Basting your quilts is now a snap. In Manual mode, you can select the basting stitch to occur at 0.5, 0.75, 1, or 2-second intervals. You can dictate the length of the stitch by how fast you move the quilt between stitches. The color touch screen in Manual mode

The foot pedal

OK – so let’s take a look at the touch screen. The Pause/Play button is the arrow in the bottom right-hand corner; if a function is blue, it’s active. There’s a good description of all these functions in the User’s Guide, so be sure to go there for more information, but here are some highlights.

The color touch screen in Regulation Mode

The PLATINUM™ Q160 has two modes of operation, Manual and Regulated. In Manual mode (the big blue M), the settings indicate the number of stitches per minute, while in Regulated Mode (the big R), the setting is the number of stitches per inch. Remember, in manual mode, the machine’s speed and how fast you move the fabric create the stitch length. Let’s focus on Manual Mode for a minute and notice how the screen changes from the one above when it was in Regulation Mode.

The PLATINUM™ Q160 can do a maximum of 2,100 stitches a minute. WOW – that’s a lot of stitches, and depending on what you are doing, you may need speed. However, my preference is in the 200 to 700 stitches per minute. The number of stitches per minute in the photo is 775, and I can increase or decrease the number using the plus and minus buttons. I can also have 2 presets shown in the bottom left, and the folder with the heart is the save button. Set the speed to what you’re comfortable with, let’s say for stitch in the ditch around applique where you need a slower speed for detailed work, and save it as one preset. Then for overall background fills, you can set the other preset speed faster where you don’t need the same control. It’s super easy to switch between them by touching the numbers on the left. I didn’t have time to play with the Low Bobbin Sensor, so it’s currently not active on my machine. There are two buttons for the needle position, and you can do several things with them. Depending on which one is blue indicates whether the needle stops in the up or the down position when you’re quilting. You can also use these to lower and raise the needle when you need to. The third function is the Up/ Down/TieOff function (the bottom one). When you touch and hold this function, it creates a tie-off stitch and causes the needle to stop in the down position, which is what I like for quilting.

The Manual mode basting stitch at 0.75-second intervals

Here’s an example of the basting stitch with a 0.75-second interval. I didn’t experiment too much with this, but enough to get the concept. I might want those stitches a bit further apart on an actual quilt. But the beauty is, we have options! I love options!

Basting stitches in Manual mode

OK – let’s talk about the Regulation mode. Within the Regulation mode, there are two options. One is Precision (the white area with the black dotted circle), and the other is Cruise (the blue area with the circular arrows.

It took me only a few minutes to figure out all these controls – the User’s Guide is self-explanatory, and the controls are intuitive.

The Cruise option in Regulation mode

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What’s the difference between these two? In Precision, the machine starts to stitch when you move the fabric, and in Cruise, you turn on the quilting machine using the Pause/Play button, and it starts immediately at the set speed and maintains the same speed throughout your session.

You can also baste a quilt in Regulation mode. This time, you set the basting to the length (in inches) of the basting stitch, which can be 0.5, 1, 2, or 4 inches. And the PLATINUM™ Q160 only takes a stitch when you move the fabric by the length of the basting stitch you set. That’s so cool!

There’s another set of LED lights around the needle, which you can see reflected on the table. Again, the set of lights can be turned down or turned off as needed, and the controls are independent. As I keep saying, options are great as we all have different needs and work in different locations.

Both are excellent, but you’ll find one is better than another in certain quilting applications. The Precision mode is fantastic when going around applique shapes or areas that need super control, while the Cruise is great for filling in large background areas. Do yourself a favor and learn how to use both properly. The learning curve isn’t steep, but you must become familiar with both, or you’ll be frustrated. Here is something else that’s critical to the success of using the Stitch Regulation. See those two black areas on the front of the table insert? Those are the sensors for the stitch regulation. They sense how quickly your fabric is moving and ensure even stitches.

Long basting stitches are easy in Regulation mode.

There are some very cool features and benefits on the PLATINUM™ Q160, and you can check out the entire list. But here’s one other thing I want to share with you. The lighting on this quilting machine is BRILLIANT – pun intended! There’s one set of LED lights over the work area, which are very bright, and I had to turn them on and off to take pictures; sometimes, the light was too bright for what I was quilting. But it’s no problem because there’s a switch on the touch screen to dim or turn them off.

The reflection of the front set of LED lights

There’s also a Tools menu where you control the lights, set the low bobbin sensor, set alarms, and set the timer and stitch count in the event you want to see how long it takes you to quilt a project. I’ve talked forever, but there are so many great features and benefits of the Husqvarna Viking PLATINUM™ Q160 that I didn’t want to miss any of them!

The sensors for the Stitch Regulation

The Stitch Regulation does not work correctly if even one sensor is exposed. I have a fix for that, see what I discovered. The LED lights in the work area The Tools menu

The Stitch Regulation does not work if even one sensor is exposed.

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How to make free motion quilting a smooth operation [tips and tools] You can cut out a rectangle at the front of the silicone sheet or position the sheet behind the needle to smooth the joint on the area behind the needle.

Let’s work on an actual quilt and see what happens. Am I a bit excited? You bet! I can hardly wait to get an actual quilt under the 16” throat space. As I mentioned before, two things can cause us grief when doing free motion quilting. One is not knowing what motifs to quilt, and the second is not knowing your machine. Hopefully, you practiced with some quilt sandwiches to understand how each quilting mode works. It’s pretty easy to learn, so that’s good. However, choosing quilting designs and stitching them out is a different story. My blog post about The power of paper, marker and clipboard for free motion quilting designs provides ideas on how to practice so you’re ready to go when you sit down at your quilting machine.

Quilting gloves and snips are essential to successful quilting.

The tabletop is pretty smooth, but if you wish, you can add a silicone sheet to smooth out the joint between the table and the machine. Several brands are available, and you’ll have to position it differently than you would for your domestic sewing machine.

You want to start by gathering your tools. I love using my quilting gloves. Even with all the extra space, my hands and the fabric are slippery, so the gloves help me maintain control over the work. The more control you have, the easier it is to get smooth lines of stitching. My favorite ones are the ones that fit close to your hands. There are many other options for getting a grip on your quilt. If something isn’t working, ask your friends what they use and then try other options. We’re quilters, and we deserve the best! You also need a pair of snips. Again, there are loads of options, but make sure they work well for you. Some people like to have the snips attached to their shirts with a pull-out cord or a magnet pin, or leave them on the table. It doesn’t matter as long as it works for you. Don’t be afraid to ask people for their advice; instead of just getting their opinion, ask them why they prefer one tool over another. That’ll help you make your decision!

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A silicone sheet on the table of the quilting machine

See how it covers the Stitch Regulation sensors? The stitch regulation does not work if the sensors are beneath something other than your quilt.

The Stitch Regulation sensors do not work if the silicone sheet conceals them.

The silicone sheet behind the needle and the sensors

Now that we have all our tools assembled, let’s look at our quilt. I picked a small project measuring 26” x 32”. It’s a good idea to start small! You need to get the concept of free motion movements before you tackle a large quilt. I’m not saying you can’t do a large quilt immediately, but I find it helps if you do things in stages. Get comfortable with one thing (in this case, the PLATINUM™ Q160), and then start practicing your free motion. Although, with all that throat space, it was tempting to pull out a large quilt!

The quilt for free motion quilting

This project was sitting in my ‘to be quilted’ pile for many years, but we won’t go there! It’s one of the first projects I made, and of course, not having a good quilting machine and no confidence to tackle free motion quilting, it has sat. While I gained the confidence to free motion quilt, this project never reached the top of the pile. I know you can all relate to that! When I learned to quilt, my teacher told me muslin made a wonderful quilt back because it was inexpensive. WHOA! I used muslin in the past and was never happy with the results. Why? Every little blip shows like crazy, especially if you’re using a different color of bobbin thread or top thread that can show through to the back. I debated getting a new backing for this wall quilt, but decided to forge ahead and put the PLATINUM Q160 to the test.

Muslin as a quilt back - friend or foe?

You always want your batting and backing larger than the quilt, but it’s even more critical if you use the Stitch Regulation mode on the PLATINUM™ Q160. I do have a solution which I’ll show you later, but ensure you have at least 3 inches of batting and backing on all four sides. It’s not just for the stitch regulation, but also to have something to hold as you quilt the borders! Next, take your practice sandwich and test the tension before starting. Sometimes, things change, and sometimes we forget to make changes if there was an issue the day before. Sometimes, we need to know if we’re in the mood to quilt, and we also need to remind our brain what quilting pattern we want to stitch.

A practice run before starting on the actual project

What is the first thing you do when you’re about to stitch? Yep – bring up the bobbin thread. Use the foot pedal or the needle functions on the touch screen. Pull the quilt away from the bobbin thread so you can more easily grab it, and then holding the top and bobbin thread, pull the quilt into position, so the needle lines up with the hole for the bobbin thread. This process prevents messy thread nests, especially on muslin backing!

Once everything looks good, place your quilt under the needle. Here’s a great tip on how to position your quilt. The table for the PLATINUM™ Q160 is 32” wide by 36” long. You can get an extension (18” x 36”) for one or both sides of the table if you frequently do large quilts. Notice I piled the quilt around the needle. The quilt is not flat, there are no rolls or folds, and the immediate area I’m quilting is flat around the needle. Positioning the quilt like this reduces its drag, making it easier for you to manipulate the quilt around the needle and giving you way more control and precision! You’re only moving small sections, not the entire quilt. If the project is smaller, like my wall hanging, then do the best you can as it won’t bunch up that easily. The point is to not have any part of the project hang off the edges and to reduce the footprint as small as you can make it while still having room to work.

Pulling up the bobbin thread

I chose to do a loopy design as a background stitching in the applique area as it resembled the satin stitched thread. It looked so good that I decided to quilt all the background with the same loopy design. It’s a super easy design, and with the large throat on the PLATINUM™ Q160, it was a dream to quilt. It took no time at all to finish that part of the quilting.

Be careful you don’t get any of the quilt edges tucked under the area you’re quilting! Not that this has happened to any one of us in the past!

The loopy free motion stitch for the background

Position the quilt around the needle to reduce drag.

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I used the Stitch Regulation in the Cruise mode. I used the Pause/Play button and the foot pedal to operate the PLATINUM™ Q160 and found I was equally comfortable with both. For more control in smaller areas, I found the foot pedal easier to use as I could stop and start without removing my hands from the project. In larger areas, I used the Pause/Play to start and the foot pedal to stop – many options to fit the operator and the style of quilting required.

Since the stitch in the ditch requires a lot more precision, I stayed in Stitch Regulation, but this time, I used the Precision mode, and I used the foot pedal to control start and stop. It was so easy to use, and the control was incredible. I’ve never been this accurate on my free motion stitch in the ditch before. Remember, in this mode, the PLATINUM™ Q160 only stitches when you move the fabric.

And what does the back look like with the muslin? I’m pleased with the back, as none of the colored threads show up. However, I would never use muslin again because there are so many pretty fabric options, and why shouldn’t the back be as nice as the front (it’s like a surprise)? If there are glitches, they’ll never show on a busy print.

After touching the Pause/Play function, the PLATINUM™ Q160 started stitching ten stitches per inch immediately. There’s no time for hesitation – push and go! Since this was a large loopy design, this stitching mode worked fabulously, and when I was ready to stop, I touched the foot pedal. Stitch in the ditch around the applique shapes

Depending on where and how I wanted to quilt the motifs or the background, I used all three modes – Manual, Precision, and Cruise with the latter two falling under the Stitch Regulation. What is my favorite?

The back of the quilt looks great.

Look at how much space I had to quilt this wall hanging with. Yep – I was a kid in a candy store with the PLATINUM™ Q160.

For applique, I prefer using Stitch Regulation in Precision mode and the foot pedal. So easy and super accurate.

The touch screen in the Stitch regulation Cruise mode

Once the background was quilted, I knew I wanted to stitch in the ditch around the applique shapes.

For background fills, I prefer using Stitch Regulation in Cruise mode; sometimes, I used the Pause/Play function and the foot pedal to stop and start quilting. It all depended on the size of the area and the level of accuracy I needed. And other times, I used the Manual mode just because I’ve been quilting free motion in manual mode for years on my domestic sewing machine. The stitches below were stitched using the Stitch Regulation, resulting in a consistent stitch length.

The applique shapes need stitches around them

Consistent stitch length

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So much room!

I think back to the industrial quilting machine I spotted so many years ago, and while it had lots of space to play with, it did not have all the bells and whistles you get with the Husqvarna Viking PLATINUM™ Q160.

Ruler work: The STRAIGHT talk on quilting STRAIGHT lines We’re playing with the Ruler Foot, and I have a couple of other tips for you as well. I’ll continue with the same wall quilt. The seams around the spools are perfect for ruler work. The first thing we have to do is change the foot. There are several sets of optional accessory feet, and we’ll explore next. Using a hex tool to change the foot

When you loosen the screw that holds the foot in place (no need to remove it), the foot may drop to the throat plate, but it won’t come off. I have the Ruler Foot in this photo as I got ahead of myself when taking the photos.

Optional accessory feet

The Ruler Foot is a very substantial metal foot. The distance from the needle to any point outside the circle is a perfect ¼”, making it great for precision work. The shank on the back is high to allow the ruler to fit underneath. The outside is perfectly smooth, allowing the ruler to move around on all sides of the foot.

The foot sits on the throat plate, but it won’t release.

To release the foot, lift the Feet Mount to gain a bit more height, and the foot comes off.

Two indentations provide a clear view into the center of the foot.

Make sure you’re using the proper ruler thickness, which is ¼”, and made especially for industrial-style quilting machines; not the 1/8” you use on the domestic sewing machine. That, in conjunction with the Ruler Foot, ensures the ruler doesn’t slip and hit the needle. I highly recommend putting some grips on the back of your ruler to help stabilize it. There are many brands, so check them out before buying. As I mentioned before, check with your friends to see which rulers they use. While there are all kinds of rulers with decorative edges, my preferred ruler is a straight edge that’s 12” long. It has markings in ½” increments along both long edges and lines parallel to the long edge in ¼” increments.

The Ruler Foot

To change the needle, you need a hex tool included in the supply kit with the PLATINUM™ Q160. While the standard foot with the machine looks like a Ruler Foot, the sides are not as high, and the ruler could slip and make contact with the needle, which would not be a good thing. Use the proper tool to get the job done right!

Use the correct ruler thickness with your Ruler Foot. Lift the Feet Mount to release the presser foot.

Another excellent characteristic of the Ruler Foot is the indentations on two sides, which allow you to see right into the center of the foot by the needle for 100% accuracy.

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As with any other type of quilting, you want to pull up your bobbin thread, and it’s best to keep those threads under the foot.

Pulling up the bobbin thread

The beauty of ruler work (a type of free motion quilting) is that you can easily change the direction of stitching by rotating the ruler without having to rotate the project, which is a hassle with a domestic sewing machine. However, with the 16” throat space, it was easy to rotate my small project, so I mostly stitched towards myself. However, I wouldn’t do that with a larger project.

To stitch an angle without rotating the project, rotate the ruler. Ruler work is free motion quilting, so you can go in any direction, which is a huge time saver on a larger quilt.

Remember, the outside of the Ruler Foot is ¼” from the needle, so position the ruler ¼” from the edge or line where you want to quilt. Initially, it may seem odd, but you’ll quickly get used to it.

So, I grabbed another project to quilt using the Ruler Foot.

Using the ruler to stitch on an angle

To stitch an angle without rotating the project, rotate the ruler. Ruler work is free motion quilting, so you can go in any direction, which is a huge time saver on a larger quilt. Because of the indentations in the foot, it’s easy to get precision on the corners.

Use the foot and the ruler to get precision at corners Using the ruler to stitch in the ditch

I stitched around all the spools and in the ditch around the two borders. It didn’t take long before it was complete, and it was so accurate!

A table runner basted and ready to quilt

Technically, I could’ve quilted this with a walking foot on my domestic sewing machine as it’s not very big. However, the exercise was to learn the PLATINUM™ Q160, and as I mentioned yesterday, it’s easier to learn to quilt on small projects. Once I’m comfortable with the process, it’ll be easy to proceed to the larger projects. I wanted to quilt the table runner on the diagonal through the black squares and continue the stitching into the black border. If I had done this on the domestic sewing machine, I would’ve marked the lines in the border. Because I used the ruler, the ruler was my marking tool.

And if you wish, you can even stitch backward.

No need to mark the borders as the ruler provides the guide. Stitching backward with the Ruler Foot

Position the ruler ¼” away from where you want to quilt.

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As I quilted right to the edge of the project, I started and stopped in the excess batting, so there’s no need to worry about securing the thread ends, as they’ll get caught in the binding.

As you can imagine, even though I had excess backing, the project no longer covered the sensors for Stitch Regulation once I reached the corners.

The 45-degree line is a good reference for diagonal lines of stitching.

The Stitch Regulation sensor is exposed, which is not good. Starting the lines of stitching in the excess batting and backing

I even let a few ugly thread nests occur so you can see how awful they are. They look very messy and take some time to clean up if this were the good part of your project, but it’s OK here because it’s on the excess backing to be trimmed off.

Trust me, if the quilt didn’t cover the sensors, the stitch consistency was not good. How to fix it? You could have even more backing, but that’s not always practical. I realized that if I took a small piece of muslin and placed it near the edge of my fabric as I approached the sensors, the sensor would continue to register. I placed the small piece of muslin on my table runner so it moved at the same speed as the table runner and kept the stitches consistent. Problem solved!!!

A thread nest caused by not controlling the top and bobbin thread

Don’t forget to position the ruler ¼” away from where you want the stitching line to occur. I’m right-handed, so I keep the ruler mostly to my left, but it can be in any orientation that works for you.

Using the ruler to get straight lines through the diagonal corners of the squares

Using a small piece of extra fabric to keep the Stitch Regulation sensor covered

Then as you quilt subsequent lines, in the same direction as the first line you made, ensure there are no tucks on the back as you cross the second line of stitching. If there is, remove them and redo that section. I check the back frequently to ensure there are no issues. No one wants to rip!

Ensure there are no tucks in the back as your straight lines of quilting cross each other.

And how does the tension look on the back? I used a gold thread in the bobbin and black thread on the top. Yep – I like to test the tension to the max, and it looks pretty darn good. No major tension adjustments were necessary. Notice how the backing is nice and flat, with no ripples or tucks between the lines of stitching.

Another feature I love about the ruler is the 45-degree line at the two ends. The line comes in handy as I near the edge of the table runner to ensure my starts and stops are lining up properly. Here’s another tip for straight line quilting, whether with ruler work or a walking foot on the domestic sewing machine. I do one straight line in one direction near the middle of the project, and then I do a second straight line in the opposite direction. This process helps to secure the quilt in quarters and prevents the top and backing from becoming skewed during the quilting process.

The tension on the back of the project is perfect.

Wow! Quilting the table runner didn’t take very long at all, and it was so easy with so much room in the throat space. The ruler didn’t tip as the entire surface was large and flat. Free motion quilting is no longer a four-letter word when you have the right tools!

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3 Husqvarna Viking accessory feet to make free motion quilting FUN and EASY I still have so much to tell you about the Husqvarna Viking PLATINUM™ Q160. That’ll have to wait until another time. This article is all about using the optional accessory feet.

You want to use the Glide Foot if your project has a lot of lumpy and bumpy seams, which can occur with quilts made from flying geese, half-square triangles, and other intense piecing patterns. Instead of the foot getting caught up on those lumps, the Glide Foot glides over them. Again, I’m not quilting in this video but using an already quilted quilt to highlight how the Glide Foot moves over the bumpy seams without getting hung up on the bulk. Square Foot Set

Optional accessory feet

Glide Foot The Glide Foot resembles a clear plastic bowl that allows excellent views of the needle position.

I decided to try the Square Foot Set next. This kit has two feet – one is for a ¼” seam and the other is for a ½” seam. They’re square, and while you can use a ruler with them, there’s a bracket on the back so the ruler works on the front and two sides of the feet.

The table runner is square after the quilting process.

Before I trimmed the table runner, I ran a line of basting stitches around the outside to hold all three layers together to make it much easier to put the binding on. Then I trimmed the table runner and got out the binding. But do you see how I did the line of basting stitches around the edge? I used the ¼” Square Foot, which worked like a charm!

Use the ¼” Square Foot to baste around the edge of the table runner.

The Glide Foot

The Square Feet Set with two feet

Where do you use the Glide Foot? It’s great for quilting over and around applique shapes. I’m not quilting the quilt in this video, but showing you how easily the Glide Foot glides over multiple layers of applique without getting caught, even with the backing and batting added for the actual quilting.

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Since I wanted to learn about these feet, I read the literature in the package. I know – who does that? I do – all the time, and I’ve learned so much by reading. Well, I realized these feet make it possible to sew with the PLATINUM Q160. Seriously??? Who knew?

I cut my binding strips at 2½” and like to use a generous ¼” seam (close to 3/8”) when sewing the binding on the quilt. The ¼” foot was a bit too small, and the ½” foot was a bit large. So, I fudged it by leaving a bit of extra room when I used the ¼” foot. If you want to use the edge of the foot as a guide, adjust the width of your binding accordingly.

So, then I had to think of what to sew. Hey – What about the binding on the table runner I quilted. I wasn't sure about stitching the binding to the quilt before I trimmed it, but I probably could’ve, as the table runner is square. Sewing the binding to the table runner using the ¼” Square Foot

Remember, the PLATINUM™ Q160 is a free motion quilting machine, so I have to move the fabric as I’m sewing. I can use any stitching mode, Regulation (Cruise and Precision) or Manual, whichever works best for the current situation. I used Stitch Regulation with Cruise mode to get the desired number of stitches per inch. Wow – who knew I could do that? I’ve heard of people stitching the binding on a quilt on a long arm (also a free motion quilting machine), but I’ve never done it. It was easy and fast! So, I thought if I could sew the binding on, why couldn’t I piece with the ¼” foot. I dug out some fabric strips, backing, and batting. (watch video)

Using muslin to trick the sensors in Stitch Regulation to work to the end of the seam

I kept sewing with the stitch and flip method until the batting was covered. I found the strips sometimes wonky, so I checked each strip before sewing to ensure they were straight.

The Echo Feet Set

There are three echo feet in the kit, 3/8”, ½”, and ¾”, and because the base of each of them is perfectly circular, you can use a ruler to give you greater distances between the lines of stitching.

The next seam was stitched to the batting. Let’s piece a placemat with the ¼” Square Foot.

Using a ¼” seam allowance, I stitched the strips through the batting and the backing with the stitch and flip method.

Because the foot is square and you have so much room, you can technically position your fabric to the left or the right of the needle. If I sew one seam in one direction and one seam in the opposite direction, that might help with the seams I found were a bit wonky. It’s all about experimenting and figuring out how to use the tools to our advantage!

The 3/8” Echo Foot next to the original foot

The ¾” Echo Foot next to the original foot Sewing a ¼” seam using the ¼” Square Foot

It’s not something I’d do every day, but if you’re in a bind or working with thick fabrics or thick batting, this is a good option. When I got to the end of the seam in Stitch Regulation mode, the sensors couldn’t recognize the project, so I used a scrap of muslin as I did in the previous quilting process. I got a consistent stitch length right to the bottom of the seam.

The hardest part of any quilting is choosing the quilting motif. I decided to try a chevron across the placemat and drew a couple of chalk lines to help me. Stitching the seam with the work to the right of the needle

Echo Feet Set Once my placemat was pieced, I used the Echo Feet Set to quilt it.

A reference line for quilting the placemat

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The chalk line was essential when quilting down to that line, as the reference line indicates where to pivot the ruler on an outside corner.

There's no comparison when I think back to the basic industrial quilting machine I spotted over 20 years ago and the PLATINUM™ Q160. The PLATINUM™ Q160 is super easy to learn, easy to use, doesn’t require a lot of space, and makes free motion quilting fun!

Using the ruler and one of the Echo Feet to echo the lines of quilting

Using the chalk line as a reference when quilting an outside angle

But when quilting the inside corner, it was easy to use the foot to know when to pivot.

And just like that – I now have two finished projects, and one still needs a bit of quilting. It took no time to quilt those projects, and it was fun using the Husqvarna Viking PLATINUM™ Q160. I have to say I fell in love with the quilting machine, and I hope to get to work on more quilts as it was so easy.

I hope you make an appointment with your local Husqvarna Viking dealer to take this stationary quilting machine for a test run and be sure to try out the optional accessory feet. You won’t be sorry!

Elaine Theriault

crazyquilteronabike.blogspot.com

Pivoting on the inside corner

It’s so easy to get the same straight lines as I did with the Ruler Foot, except that now I’m getting more variety of distance in my lines by using the Echo Feet rather than relying on the ruler.

The projects I quilted on the Husqvarna Viking PLATINUM™ Q160

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BUSINESS DIRECTORY To list your business please email john@quiltsocial.com CANADA Brampton Sew & Serge 289 Rutherford Rd S, Unit 7, Brampton, ON L6W 3R9  905.874.1564  facebook.com/sewnsergebellnet.ca  monique@bramptonsewnserge.com Welcome to Your One Stop Sewing Centre! We are authorized dealers of Baby Lock, Husqvarna Viking, and Singer sewing machines and sergers. We also offer a full schedule of sewing classes for everyone. Brandon Sewing Centre 821 Princess Ave, Brandon MB R7A 0P5, 204.727.2752 Bytowne Threads - Ottawa, ON  1.888.831.4095  bytownethreads.com  mlj@bytownethreads.com Featuring Aurifil thread from Italy. Long staple Egyptian cotton threads - 270 colours in 12, 28, 40 and 50 wt; 88 colours in 80 wt. Polyester Aurilux - 240 high sheen colours. Wool threads - 192 colours. Many kits available. Check our website! Canadian National Fabric - Brampton, ON  https://canadiannationalfabric.com/  info@canadiannationalfabric.com We are an online fabric shoppe offering a wide variety of fabrics, patterns, books and notions for all your sewing needs. Flat rate Canada wide shipping of $15. All orders over $55.00 before taxes and shipping will get a free mystery fat quarter. Shop in person available by appointment! Carellan Sewing Centre 1685 Corydon Ave, Winnipeg MB R3N 0J8 204.488.2272, facebook.com/CarellanSewingCentre Country Concessions 35 King Street N, Cookstown, ON L0L 1L0 (new address) 705.458.4546, countryconcessions.com Gitta's 271 Lakeshore Rd E, Mississauga, ON L5G 1G8  905.274.7198  gittas.com  questions@gittas.com Nestled in the east village of Port Credit, Gitta's is the place where stitchers meet with their stitching friends, shop for stitching supplies and see the new stitching designs from Europe and the United States. Hardanger House, designs by Betty Stokoe Oldham PO Box 1623, Penhold, AB T0M 1R0  403.573.2003  bettyoldham53@gmail.com  etsy.com/shop/HardangerHouse. Haus of Stitches 626 Main Street, Humboldt, SK S0K 2A0  306.682.0772 or toll-free 1.800.344.6024  hausofstitches.ca Our one of a kind store offers everything you need for sewing, quilting, knitting, rug hooking and needlework. Authorized dealers for Janome and Elna. K & A Quilt Studio 90 Samnah Cres, Ingersoll ON N5C 3J7 (New Location!)  519.425.4141  kaquiltstudio.com Where friends and creativity meet! Authorized distributor of Husqvarna VIKING sewing machines, and a Kimberbell Certified Shop. We stock full collections of quilting fabrics, featuring Northcott and Moda, plus lots of patterns, books, and samples to inspire you! Kelly's Creative Sewing 804 Main St, Dartmouth, NS B2W 3V1  902.435.7380  kellyscreativesewing.ca  kellyscreativesewing@gmail.com We offer sales and on-site service of high-end domestic embroidery, sewing machines and sergers, as well as a variety of educational programs. Ottawa Sewing Centre 1390 Clyde Ave, #107, Ottawa, ON K2G 3H9  613.695.1386  ottawasewing.com  ottawasewing@gmail.com Authorized Dealers for Brother, BabyLock, Elna, Q'nique & Grace quilting frames. Specialize in sales, parts & servicing for all makes & models of quilting/embroidery/sewing/ serger/overlock machines & cabinets by Sylvia Design.

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