QUILTsocial | Issue 28

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9 ways to use a SERGER for your quilting and sewing projects

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getting creative with Mont Marte Fabric Paints

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essential sewing tools for beginners +making a crib quilt

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waterproof sewing projects +what you need

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4 types of optional feet to quilt anything powerquilter 1600

Getting to know the

Husqvarna VIKING Amber Air S600

PFAFF powerquilter 1600 Long Arm Quilting Machine | issue 28 O  UILT

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Editor's Letter There’s so much to say about this exciting new issue where creativity meets functionality in sewing and quilting! In this issue, we've curated an array of projects and articles that cater to both novice and seasoned crafters, showcasing innovative techniques and must-have tools.

We kick things off with a focus on waterproof sewing projects, exploring various techniques to keep your creations safe from the elements and spills. From snack bags to all-purpose totes, discover the wonders of HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl and Odif Odicoat Gel Coating. Our step-by-step guides ensure you have everything you need to embark on these waterproof adventures.

For those just starting, we delve into the essential tools every beginner quilter should have. Learn the basics of making a crib quilt and equip yourself with the knowledge to tackle more intricate projects in the future.

Delve into the world of quilting with our exploration of GÜTERMANN Thread and demystifying the quarter-square-triangle. We also shed light on the underestimated but indispensable seam ripper and introduce UNIQUE sewing tools, making ripping easier and mistakes less daunting.

Discover the features and tips of the Husqvarna VIKING Amber Air S600 serging machine, it's not just for serging! From piecing quilt tops to exploring the wonders of serging, this versatile machine proves to be a valuable asset for your sewing projects. Uncover nine ways to use a serger and troubleshoot common issues with our comprehensive guide.

Dive into the world of creative expression with Mont Marte art supplies. Recover a lampshade, explore fabric paints, and embark on a freemotion stitching journey with DIY lampshade covers. Design a vibrant beach tote with Mont Marte fabric paints and experience the joy of painting on fabric with Mont Marte Paint Sticks.

Explore the capabilities of the PFAFF powerquilter 1600 Long Arm Quilting Machine. From its features and benefits to threading and free-motion quilting, this powerhouse of a machine opens new possibilities for quilting enthusiasts. Gain insights into stitch regulation and discover four types of optional feet that allow you to quilt anything your heart desires.

As we navigate through the pages of this issue, we hope you find inspiration, guidance, and the motivation to embark on new sewing and quilting adventures. Whether you're a seasoned pro or just starting your creative journey, there's something for everyone in this exciting QUILTsocial issue.

Enjoy the issue!

Cheerfully,

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PUBLISHER, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ART DIRECTOR Carla A. Canonico carla@QUILTsocial.com PUBLISHER, ADVERTISING SALES John De Fusco john@QUILTsocial.com PHOTOGRAPHERS Carla A. Canonico, John De Fusco BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS Jean Boyd patternsbyjeanboyd.com Elaine Theriault crazyquilteronabike.blogspot.com Paul Léger paullegerquilts.com GRAPHIC & WEB DESIGN Carla A. Canonico carla@QUILTsocial.com GRAPHIC ASSISTANT and SOCIAL MEDIA Sondra Armas Maria Corina Guillen WEBSITE / BLOG : https://QUILTsocial.com Like us on Facebook : QUILTsocial Follow us on Pinterest : quiltsocial Follow us on Instagram : quiltsocial Follow us on Twitter : @QUILTsocial WHERE TO GET YOUR COPY QUILTsocial is a quarterly eMagazine published by A Needle Pulling Thread. It is available free for personal use online at https://QUILTsocial.com.

A limited number of printed copies of QUILTsocial are available for purchase at select quilt shops and specialty stores. Ask for it at your local shop. QUILTsocial is not available by subscription.

QUILT SHOPS If you are interested in carrying QUILTsocial in your store, please email john@QUILTsocial.com.

EDITORIAL Designers and other contributors who would like to be considered for future issues please email carla@QUILTsocial.com with a brief description of your work and your proposed project for the magazine. ©2024 QUILTsocial. All rights reserved. Issue 28. ISSN 2368-5913.

No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are for private, non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted material owned by their respective creators or owners.

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Elaine’s Quilting Tech Tips!

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43 A Needle Pulling Thread Magazine 67 Business Directory 68 Husqvarna VIKING 13, 29, 45 Olfa 25, 39, 63 Oliso 02 PFAFF 53 QUILTsocial.com

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CONTENTS 6

Waterproof sewing projects | What you need

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Using HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl to sew a waterproof snack bag

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Making a waterproof all-purpose bag with Odif Odicoat Gel Coating

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How to make a quick and easy lunch bag, and waterproof it!

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How to sew the easiest outdoor placemats and coasters ever!

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Essential sewing tools for beginners | Making a crib quilt

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Piecing shoo fly quilt blocks with GÜTERMANN Thread - a great notion

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In quilting, a quarter-square-triangle sounds scarier than it is

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The Underappreciated seam ripper, UNIQUE sewing makes ripping easier

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Finishing off the bright crib quilt with the beloved thread snips

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Getting to know the Husqvarna VIKING Amber Air S600 [Tips and Features]

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Piecing a quilt top with the Husqvarna VIKING Amber Air S600 [Serger]

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9 ways to use a serger for your quilting and sewing projects

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Why a coverstitch machine is a valuable tool

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8 things to check if things go wrong when using a serger

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Recovering a lampshade with Mont Marte art supplies - Part 1

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Getting creative with Mont Marte fabric paints - Part 2

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Free motion stitching on a DIY lampshade cover - Part 3

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Design, color, and stitch a beach tote with Mont Marte

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Painting on fabric is fun with Mont Marte Paint Sticks

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Introducing the PFAFF powerquilter 1600 Long Arm Quilting Machine

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More features and benefits of the PFAFF powerquilter 1600 – Get threaded!

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Free motion quilting on the PFAFF power quilter 1600 [Manual Mode]

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Stitch regulation on the PFAFF powerquilter 1600

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4 types of optional feet to quilt anything | powerquilter 1600

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Waterproof sewing projects What you need

HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl

Let's start by showing you how to use HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl and Odif Odicoat Gel Coating to make some fun, water-resistant projects that are perfect for using on car trips with the kids or outings to your favorite beach or park this summer.

After you apply the gel, you can sew or cut the fabric. Odicoat can also be applied to already finished projects using a soft brush. Finished projects may be washed by hand or machine.

Odif Odicoat Gel Coating is a transparent, odorless, acid and solvent-free product.

HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl is a clear laminating product that protects fabrics and other smooth surfaces. Iron it on your choice of fabric at a medium temperature using a Teflon pressing sheet underneath. It's extra clear to allow material to show through and you can use it on one or both sides of most fabrics. HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl comes with both a lustre and matte finish. I'll use the lustre finish for the projects in this feature.

I’m also using the following supplies:

Odif Odicoat Gel Coating is a waterproof gel that protects fabrics from moisture and is a very strong permanent glue for fabric. When dry, Odicoat provides a finish on fabric like oilcloth while protecting it from UV and stains. It’s touch dry in 30 minutes and completely dry within 12 hours.

• Oliso Pro TG1600 Pro Plus Smart Iron • SCHMETZ Denim Needles size 90/14 • 3/8" Unique Sewing plastic snap fasteners • Unique Snap Fastener Tool • Unique Clever Clips • VELCRO Sew On Soft and Flexible Tape • Unique applique pressing sheet I'll show you how to use HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl and Odif Odicoat Gel Coating to make 2 different all-purpose bags – a lunch bag, and placemats and coasters. So, dig into your fabric stash and get ready to create!

Odif Odicoat Gel Coating

Snack bag made with HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl

Supplies for the projects

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Jean Boyd

Using HeatnBond Iron On Vinyl to sew a waterproof snack bag HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl and Odif Odicoat Gel Coating are new products for me, so I'm looking forward to using them on some quick, waterproof items that are perfect for use outside in the summer.

The instructions for using the iron-on vinyl are included with the product, but I’ll go through them, step by step, so you see how it’s done.

Instructions for using HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl

We'll start by making this little snack bag that measures 7" x 8".

Set your Oliso Pro TG1600 Pro Plus Smart Iron to medium heat with no steam.

Peel the vinyl from the protective paper and place it, sticky side down, on the wrong side of the fabric.

• Place the UNIQUE Quilting Double

Sided Applique Pressing Sheet on an ironing board to protect it.

• Place your fabric on the pressing sheet, vinyl side up.

Snack bag covered with HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl

• Place the protective paper that you

• Press and hold the iron on the

protective paper for 8 seconds.

Repeat until the entire surface is laminated. Don't touch the iron directly to the vinyl.

• Turn the fabric over. Press and hold the iron on the back for 4 seconds.

Repeat until the entire surface is heated.

just removed, on top of the vinyl.

• Wash fabrics without fabric softener.

• Cut 1 piece of fabric 8½" x 17½".

• Cut 2 pieces of HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl 8½" x 17½".

• Pre-heat your Oliso Pro TG1600 Pro

Plus Smart Iron to medium heat with no steam.

Place HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl on fabric.

Photos by Jean Boyd

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• Apply another piece of HeatnBond Iron-On

Vinyl on the right side of the fabric, following the earlier directions. You now have a piece of waterproof fabric with vinyl on both sides.

• When the fabric has cooled, trim it to 8" x 17".

Putting it all together

• Measure 7" down from the stitched short edge for the bottom fold. Draw a line with a chalk marker if desired.

Trim the vinyl-covered fabric to 8" x 17".

• Fold on the drawn line with wrong sides

together. You’ll have a little flap that’s about 3" deep at the top.

• Round the corners of the flap piece using scissors or leave them straight.

• Stitch across the other short edge using

a SCHMETZ Denim Needles size 90/14 and a walking, even feed or Teflon foot on your machine. Stitch ¼" from the outside edge.

• Fold fabric on the drawn fold line, wrong sides together.

• Holding the sides together with UNIQUE

Use UNIQUE Quilting Clever Clips to hold fabric in place for sewing.

Quilting Clever Clips, sew from the bottom fold, up the side, across the top and down the other side. Use a 2.5mm stitch length and sew with a ¼" seam allowance. Back stitch at the beginning and end of seams.

Applying the snaps

• Use the UNIQUE Sewing Snap Fastener Tool to apply snaps on the flap and the main part of the bag. Directions for using this tool are printed on the package.

UNIQUE Sewing Snap Fastener Tool and plastic snaps

All-purpose bag covered with Odif Odicoat Gel Coating

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Making a waterproof all-purpose bag with Odif Odicoat Gel Coating We'll make another little bag, this time using Odif Odicoat Gel Coating. This product is a waterproof gel that protects fabrics by creating an oilcloth-like finish.

Odicoat is applied to the fabric using a soft bristle or foam brush or the plastic card that comes with the product.

Complete instructions are printed on the label. Finished projects may be washed by hand or machine. This bag can be used for snacks, toys, pencils, or any similar articles. It's also easy to modify the size to suit your needs.

• Trim the fabric so it measures 8" x 17".

• Fold the fabric in half, right sides together. Clip sides together with UNIQUE Quilting Clever Clips.

• Sew the 2 side seams. Use a walking,

even feed or Teflon foot on your machine. Stitch a ¼" seam. Use a 2.5mm stitch length. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam.

Applying the snaps

• Use the UNIQUE Sewing Plastic Snap Fastener Tool to apply snaps on the flap and the main part of the bag.

Directions for using this tool are printed on the package.

And there you have it – another quick and easy all-purpose bag.

• Sew a double row of stitching around the top edge.

A double row of stitching around the top edge

• Fold the bottom corners as shown in

the picture. Stitch across each corner, about 1" from the point. This will give the bag a nice, square bottom.

Snack bag using HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl

An all-purpose bag covered with Odif Odicoat Gel Coating

Let's get started

• Cut 1 piece of fabric 8½" x 17½".

• Apply Odif Odicoat Gel Coating to one side of the fabric. Let dry for about ½ hour or until it’s no longer sticky.

• Turn the fabric over and apply

Odicoat to that side. Let the Gel Coating dry for 12 hours before using the fabric for the bag.

Stitch across the bottom corners.

Vinyl covered lunch bag Apply Odif Odicoat Gel Coating to fabric.

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How to make a quick and easy lunch bag, and waterproof it!

Now we'll use HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl to make a lunch bag. I used 2 different fabrics for my lunch bag, but you can use whatever you have on hand. This is a great opportunity to use up some scraps from your stash! Let’s get started.

You can use the lunch bag just as it is now or you can make a double 1" fold and then use VELCRO Sew On Soft and Flexible Tape as shown in the photo. This will give you a more secure closure.

Tape the Velcro in place so it won't slide around on the vinyl as you’re stitching.

• From the fabric, cut the following

pieces. 2 – 8½" x 13½" for the front and back

2 – 5½" x 13½" for the sides 1 – 5½" x 8½" for the bottom

• From the HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl cut pieces the same sizes as the fabric.

• Press the vinyl to both sides of the

fabric following the instructions given for the snack bag or the instructions that come with the vinyl.

• When the vinyl and fabric pieces have

cooled down, cut them as follows: 2 – 8" x 13" for the front and back

2 – 5" x 13" for the sides 1 – 5" x 8" for the bottom

Start and stop stitching ¼" from the outside edges of each piece.

• Sew across the top edge of each

front, back and side piece ¼" from the edge.

hold the side pieces to the front, back and bottom sections, wrong sides together.

• Starting at the top edge, sew a side

piece to a front piece. When you get to the bottom, stop stitching ¼" from the edge of the fabric and backstitch.

Sew the other side together in the same way. pieces, starting and stopping ¼" from the edge of the fabric. This will give you nice square corners on the bottom of your bag.

Pieces cut for a lunch bag

• Holding the pieces wrong sides

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Use the free-arm feature on your machine to sew the Velcro in place.

• Use UNIQUE Quilting Clever Clips to

• Sew the bottom piece to the side

together with UNIQUE Quilting Clever Clips, sew the bottom piece along the 8" sides, using a SCHMETZ Denim Needle size 90/14 and a walking, even feed or Teflon foot on your machine.

Sew a ¼" seam. Use a 2.5mm stitch length. Start and stop stitching ¼" from the outside edges of each piece.

Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam.

Tape Velcro in place.

Sew the bottom piece to the side pieces.

Stitch Velcro in place.

And here’s the finished lunch bag.

HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl makes this bag sturdy, waterproof and easy to clean.

How to sew the easiest outdoorplacemats and coasters ever!

Let's make some placemats and coasters using both HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl and Odif Odicoat Gel Coating. These placemats and coasters are perfect for outdoor use, as they are water-resistant and can be wiped off easily when it’s time for clean-up. Placemats are great for using up fabrics from your stash, especially those large prints and specialty fabrics you probably have on hand.

Here's the HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl method.

• Cut your placemat fabric about ½" larger all around than the desired finished size.

• For each placemat, cut 2 pieces of HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl.

• Following the instructions from instructions given for the snack bag or those that come with the iron-on vinyl, press one piece of vinyl on each side of the placemat fabric.

If you’re using a fabric like batik, you’ll have a reversible placemat because the design is often the same on both sides of the fabric.

• Trim off excess fabric and vinyl to make the placemat to the desired size.

Finished placemat and coaster

• If you wish, you can stitch ¼" from the outside edges all around for extra reinforcement.

Trim extra fabric and vinyl.

Stitch ¼" from outside edges.

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You can also use Odif Odicoat Gel Coating to make placemats.

Follow the method described earlier, but treat each side of the fabric with Odif Odicoat Gel Coating instead of using the vinyl. This product is a waterproof gel that protects fabrics by creating an oilcloth-like finish.

Apply Odicoat to fabric using a soft bristle or foam brush, or the plastic card that comes with the product. Wash the finished projects by hand or machine. Let the Gel Coating dry for 12 hours before using the fabric.

And here are the finished placemats!

To make a set of coasters, choose a piece of fabric that will give you the number of coasters you want.

Apply Odif Odicoat Gel Coating on fabric.

Put HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl or Odif Odicoat Gel Coating on both sides of the fabric.

Trace around a circle shape.

Cut out the coasters using scissors.

And that's it! Your outdoor, reversible placemats and coasters are ready to use!

I hope you enjoyed learning about HeatnBond Iron-On Vinyl and Odif Odicoat Gel Coating. There are so many possibilities for creating projects from these two products.

Enjoy!

Trace the coaster shape on the treated fabric.

Finished placemats and coasters

3 finished placemats

Jean Boyd

patternsbyjeanboyd.com

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Essential sewing tools for beginners Making a crib quilt

Paul Léger

I’ve been asked numerous times by new quilters what they should purchase first when beginning to quilt. I always suggest affordable notions and tools! With this in mind, I’ll share with you the essential must-have tools for beginners while making a fun and easy crib-size quilt!

Quilting and sewing tools for making a crib quilt. materials tools

• HOBBY Cutting Mat/45mm Rotary Cutter Starter Kit - 18'' x 24'' (45.7 x 61cm)

• KOMFORT KUT Replacement Straight Blades (5PC) - 45mm (13/4'') • SEW EASY Quilting Ruler - 12'' x 61/2'' (30.5 x 16.5cm) • SEW EASY Quilting Ruler - 24'' x 61/2'' (61 x 16.5cm) • ODIF Grippy Non-slip Coating - 108g • GÜTERMANN 12 pc Sew-All 100m Thread Set - Neutral Colors • GÜTERMANN 12 pc Sew-All 100m Thread Set - Primary Colors • RAZOR EDGE Scissors - 8" (20.3cm) • INFINITI Thread Snips - Black - 41/2'' (11.4cm) • UNIQUE SEWING Seam Ripper Large - Extra Large Comfort Grip

Basic quilting tools

- Blue and Cream

• HEIRLOOM Crystal Head Pins - Blue & Yellow - 47mm (17/8'') • SCHMETZ #1739 Piecing & Quilting Needles Pack Carded Assorted - 5 count

• OLISO PROTM TG1600 Pro Plus Smart Iron - Turquoise fabric

• 1 yd [1m] red fabric to match the orange and yellow fabrics • 1 yd [1m] yellow • ¾ yd [.7m] orange • 3/8 yd [.33m] binding • baby size batting

Quilt fabrics

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The quilt will measure 39” x 51” before it is quilted, this is targeted layout.

There are plenty of choices for rulers out there some are very pricy others like the SEW EASY Quilting Ruler - 12'' x 61/2'' (30.5 x 16.5cm), and SEW EASY Quilting Ruler - 24'' x 61/2'' (61 x 16.5cm) are more affordable.

As these rulers are not anti-slip let me suggest spraying a layer of ODIF Grippy Non-slip Coating - 108g on the bottom side of the rulers. Grippy will greatly reduce the chances of your ruler moving while cutting fabric.

Once the first fabric is squared off cut two strips measuring 3½” x the width of fabric (WOF). Repeat this squaring-off process with the yellow fabric and cut two 3½” x WOF strips.

Why a 3½” strip when 3” x 3” squares are needed? To get 3” x 3” finished squares, 3½” x 3½” squares must be cut. The additional ½” will be the seam allowance.

The next photo is of one ruler sprayed with Odif Grippy and one without.

The one that was sprayed has an opaque finish. Once on the fabric, the opaqueness will be as if it had not been sprayed.

An easy-to-make brightly colored crib quilt

Cut two 3½” strips.

The quilt blocks will be easy to make starting with the nine-patch being one of the easiest patchwork patterns. It consists of nine 3” x 3” finished squares.

From the 3½” strips cut the following:

• 20 – 3½” x 3½” squares of the orange fabric

• 16 – 3½” x 3½” squares of the yellow

Note: All blocks in this feature will measure 9½” x 9½” unfinished.

fabric.

Sew Easy Rulers sprayed with grippy.

Nine path

To make the nine-patch we’re using a cutting mat, a rotary cutter and two rulers.

I recommend the HOBBY Cutting Mat/45mm Rotary Cutter Starter Kit - 18'' x 24'' (45.7 x 61cm). The mat size is big enough for any quilter to cut most required pieces for any quilt and comes with a 45mm rotary cutter. This mat has both inches and centimetres marking, it’s also a convenient size to take with you at retreats or workshops.

Before starting to cut the orange fabric into squares the fabric needs to be squares off. To do so ensure the selvage edges of the fabrics are perfectly aligned.

Using the lines at one end of the ruler align them perfectly on the fold of the fabric then cut the raw edge.

Pair and sew 12 orange squares to 12 yellow squares. Sew along one side using ¼” seams.

Square off fabric and trim.

Sew an orange and yellow together making 12 pairs.

Cut 3½” squares.

Note: All seams in this quilt are ¼”.

Photos by Paul Léger

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Sew four yellow squares to the orange fabric of four pairs sewn in the previous step.

Now sew four orange/yellow/orange units to four yellow/orange/yellow units.

With all the 3½” x 3½” squares sewn, the four nine-patch blocks needed to make the quilt are completed.

Sew a yellow square to pair.

Sew the last eight orange squares to the yellow squares of the eight remaining pairs.

Sew four orange/yellow/orange units to four yellow/orange/yellow units.

Sew the remaining four Orange/yellow/ orange units to the yellow/orange/ orange side of the previous step.

Nine-patch blocks

Using tools such as the HOBBY Cutting Mat/45mm Rotary Cutter Starter Kit - 18'' x 24'' (45.7 x 61cm), a SEW EASY Quilting Ruler - 12'' x 61/2'' (30.5 x 16.5cm) and a SEW EASY Quilting Ruler - 24'' x 61/2'' (61 x 16.5cm) made sewing easy.

Anyone who has been following me knows how I always have spare needles and blades in my studio. All blades will dull with time or an accidental nick can happen so, for this reason, get a pack of KOMFORT KUT Replacement Straight Blades (5PC) - 45mm (13/4'') on hand for when a new blade is needed.

Sew an orange square to a pair.

Using the turquoise OLISO PRO™ TG1600 Pro Plus Smart Iron press all squares. For this quilt, I pressed to the darker fabric.

Completed block

Press seams toward the darker fabric.

Komfort KUT 5 replacement blades

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Piecing shoo fly quilt blocks with GÜTERMANN Thread - a great notion This block is called the shoo fly block and will be a little bit more difficult than nine-patch quilt block, but I’ll make it easy. This crib quilt requires four shoo fly quilt blocks.

It’s important to use a quality thread, for this reason, I’m using cream-colored thread from the GÜTERMANN 12 pc SewAll 100m Thread Set - Neutral Colors pack.

This is a great beginner pack to have as it has so many shades of neutral colors.

To make the HSTs cut one 3 7/8” x WOF strip of both the orange and yellow fabrics. On the back of one of the strips make vertical lines at every 3 7/8” (if using 4” strips make vertical lines at every 4”).

Then draw diagonal line between each vertical lines as shown in the next photo.

Then pair both strips together with right sides facing each other and pin.

Note: We only need 16 HSTs for these blocks but with two strip sets a total of 20 HSTs can be created. I'll make all 20 in all as more HSTs will be used in this feature.

Nine patch with half-square-tringles in corners = shoo fly quilt block

Before explaining how to make the shoo fly block, I want to talk about some key questions about thread.

What color should be used? You can’t go wrong with a selection of neutral colors.

My two favorite neutral colors are light gray and cream. When I start a project, the fabric colors tell me which color to choose.

What weight should be used? The weight (thread size) is important. The standard sewing machine weight for a thread is 50wt. Heavier threads are typically used for embroidery, quilting, adding a decorative stitch or used for hand work. There are also lighter threads which are often used in bobbins or hand applique to mention a couple of examples.

Cotton or polyester threads? Some will only use cotton threads and there are some, like me, who will use polyester and cotton threads. The reason I use either one is that the manufacturing of threads has so much improved over the years that some of the old stories about polyester thread from 50, 75, and 100 years ago are no longer valid.

Gütermann 12 piece sew-all 100m thread set in neutral colors

Mark vertical lines at every 37/8” then mark diagonal lines going from corner to corner.

To create the shoo fly quilt block, I’ll need the following:

After all lines are drawn, it’s time to sew a seam ¼” on both sides of each diagonal line.

• 16 – 3½” x 3½” yellow squares • 4 – 3½” x 3½” orange squares • 16 – 3½” x 3½” yellow and orange halfsquare-triangles (HST) squares

Using the unused portion of the orange strip cut four 3½” x 3½” squares.

In addition to the remaining piece of the yellow strip, another 3½” x width of fabric (WOF) will be needed to get 16 – 3½” x 3½” yellow squares.

I briefly explained to add ½” to both sides of an unfinished square to get the desired size once sewn. For example: a 3½” x 3½” square once sewn will measure 3” x 3”.

Sew on each side of the diagonal lines.

To make an HST, add 7/8” to the desired finish block. Example: a 3 7/8” x 3 7/8” square will make a 3” x 3” HST. With this said I use a 4” x 4” square and trim once the HSTs are done.

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Press toward the darker fabric.

Make rows of three squares and HSTs.

Sew rows together to complete four shoo fly quilt blocks.

Press HSTs.

If 4” strips were used, trim HSTs to 3½” x 3½”. I used 4” strips.

Four completed shoo fly quilt blocks.

Gütermann 12 piece sew-all 100m thread set with primary colors

If required, trim HST to 3½” x 3½” square.

Sew eight 3½” x 3½” yellow squares to an HST. Also, sew four yellow 3½” x 3½” squares to four 3½” x 3½” orange squares.

Once seams are cut along each vertical and diagonal line

Cut along each vertical and diagonal line.

Pair yellow squares HST and orange squares.

Sew the remaining eight HSTs to the yellow/HST pairs then the four yellow 3½” x 3½” squares to four orange/yellow pairs.

This will complete the required rows for all the blocks.

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This easy HST sewing method is done.

For me, this is the easiest method when using strips. There are other methods to make HSTs that I’ll cover in another quilt project.

As I mentioned, I used a neutral creamcolored thread from the GÜTERMANN 12 pc Sew-All 100m Thread Set - Neutral Colors. One cannot go wrong with this set of threads. If colorful threads are necessary consider getting the GÜTERMANN 12 pc Sew-All 100m Thread Set - Primary Colors as it has all the basic color shades.

In quilting, a quarter-square-triangle sounds scarier than it is You might have guessed by the title is about making quarter-square- triangles (QST). It sounds scarier than it is. It’s very easy too.

Let’s get to making QST. In the first part of this feature I indicated a 3½” x 3½” square needed to be cut to make a 3” x 3” finish square.

In the second part, I said to make half square triangles (HST) the size of the squares measuring 37/8” x 37/8” would make 3” x 3” finished HSTs.

Sew on the right side of the diagonal line but sew no further than where the lines intersect. See the next photo.

Note: Black thread was used so it would show up better on the photo.

And here I’m showing you my method for making QSTs. To make a QSTs a 1¼” must be added to the desired finished size of the QST. For this reason. I’ll be cutting one 4¼” x

Quarter square triangle quilt block

width of fabric (WOF) strips of the orange and yellow fabrics. Once everything is sewn, it’ll be a 3” x 3” finished QSTs.

Sew ¼” away from the diagonal lines.

Cut along both diagonal lines.

Eight QSTs are needed to complete these two blocks. From the 4¼” strips cut four 4¼” x 4¼” squares from both the orange and yellow farics. From every two 4¼” x 4¼” squares, two QST will be made.

Gütermann 12 pc sew-all 100m thread sets

Before I demonstrate how to make QSTs I want to suggest sewing needles. My goto is SCHMETZ needles. For new quilters, I recommend SCHMETZ #1739 Piecing & Quilting Needles Pack Carded - Assorted - 5 count. This pack has two size needles which are naturally great for sewing and to try different size threads.

On the back of the four orange fabric pieces, I made two diagonal lines from corner to corner. I then took the yellow 4¼” x 4¼” squares and matched them to the orange 4¼” x 4¼” squares (right sides together) and pinned them.

Cut on diagonal lines.

Once cuts are made, press open.

Diagonal lines drawn on 4¼” x 4¼” squares.

Press open.

SCHMETZ 1739 quilting needles in size 75/11 and 90/14

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Match two half sets of QSTs on the longest side and sew.

Repeat this step eight times to join all QSTs. Trim to 3½” x 3½” if required.

Make rows.

Sew the rows together as shown in the photo to complete the quilt blocks.

Trim edges of QSTs if necessary.

Cut another 3½” x WOF strip from both the yellow and orange fabrics. From those strips cut two 3½” x 3½” orange squares then eight 3½” x 3½” yellow squares.

Sew four QSTs to 3½” x 3½” yellow squares. Make sure one of the orange sides of the QST is sewn to the yellow fabric. Then sew two QSTs to 3½” x 3½” orange squares. This time making sure one of the yellow sides of the QST is sewn to the orange fabric.

Two completed quilt blocks

Remember to have some SCHMETZ #1739 Piecing & Quilting Needles Pack Carded - Assorted - 5 count close to the sewing machine.

As quilters and sewists, do check out all the other types and varieties of needles SCHMETZ offers. There is a type for all possible sewing projects. The variety is amazing. The next photo is only a small sample of some of the many needles from the SCHMETZ collection.

Sewn pairs.

On the four QST/yellow sets, sew the four remaining yellow 3½” x 3½” squares. Then sew the two QST/orange sets and sew the two remaining QSTs.

Sew many SCHMETZ needles!

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The underappreciated seam ripper, UNIQUE sewing makes ripping easier With a pack having two needle sizes, you get to choose the one you prefer. Believe me when I say that over time your sewing needle collection will grow… I have SCHMETZ #1730 Microtex Needles Carded - 80/12 - 5 count for sewing with 100wt threads and I have SCHMETZ #1712 Denim Needles Carded - 100/16 - 5 count for sewing with a heavy denim weight thread. I also have so many others for other purposes. Get the right needle for the right job!

TIP Every needle should be replaced after approximately eight hours of sewing or anytime a needle is nicked.

Welcome to the underappreciated seam ripper. It’s a tool no one likes to use but one which everyone uses, I’ve already used it a few times… Every sewist or quilter needs at least one in their tool notion drawer. I own several. My favorite is the UNIQUE SEWING Seam Ripper Large - Extra Large Comfort Grip - Blue and Cream. I like it because of its size. It fits nicely in the palm of my hand making an unpleasant task comfortable and easy to work with.

UNIQUE sewing seam ripper extra large

Now to the last block in making the adorable crib quilt. This quilt block uses a combination of half-square-triangles (HST) and quarter-square-triangles (GST).

On the back side of the fabric, I marked an 8” x 8” square and then subdivided it into a 4” x 4” square. I then drew four diagonal lines as in the photo below.

Stellar block for the crib quilt!

The last quilt block I’m sharing with you is a combination of all the quilt block techniques I covered in this feature using the half-square triangle, the quartersquare triangle, and the nine-patch.

This method for making HSTs is best used when working with a large square or rectangular piece of fabric. I’ve tried multiple sizes but no bigger than a fat quarter.

The finish size of the HSTs needs to be 3” x 3”, therefore the two fabrics needed to make HST must be 37/8” x 37/8” square each. As I find these measurements leave no room for error, I’ll use a 4” x 4” square formula and trim once the HSTs are done.

Mark four 37/8” x 37/8” squares with a diagonal line in each.

Sew a seam ¼” away from both sides of the diagonal lines.

Note: For the seams to show on the photo, I used black thread.

Remember with each two fabric squares sewn together will make two HSTs. For eight HSTs I need four sets of fabrics measuring 4” x 4” or two square pieces of fabric measuring at least 8” x 8”.

When I was selecting the fabrics for this quilt, I noticed I had an orange scrap piece of 8½” x 8½” which will be great for this method!

Sew on each side of diagonal lines.

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Cut along each marked line in between the seams.

Sew rows to make blocks as the completed block photo.

On occasion in this feature I mentioned pinning. I find I prefer a long thin pin such as the HEIRLOOM Crystal Head Pins - Blue & Yellow - 47mm (17/8”). I also like the fact they’re made with crystal heads; I don’t have to worry they’ll melt it I accidentally put a hot iron on them.

Cut along each line in between the seams

Sew a QST to each pair.

Trim each HST to 3½” x 3½”.

Two yellow 3½” x 3½” squares will complete the blocks.

Sew four HSTs to four QSTs. Also, sew two QSTs to the two yellow 3½” x 3½” squares.

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Sew the remaining eight QSTs to the pairs sewn in the previous step.

Completed blocks.

Making pairs.

Heirloom crystal head pins won’t melt if they are under a hot pressing iron, accidentally.

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Finishing off the bright crib quilt with the beloved thread snips I added the seam ripper and crystal head pins as essential to the sewing toolbox. I’d like to finish off my beginner sewing tools recommendation with the INFINITI Thread Snips - Black - 41/2'' (11.4cm).

It’s amazing how often it gets used when threads need snipping. They’re also handy to have for hand-sewing projects, like embroidery.

Here's how to put it together. On the left side of every block sew a 3½” x 9½” rectangle. Also, sew a 3½” x 9½” rectangle on the right side of the four blocks that will be on the right side.

Each row will have four squares and three rectangles.

Sew four rows of three blocks each.

Sew five rows of alternating squares and triangles.

INFINITI snips

I’m finishing up my bright happy crib quilt. I hope you’ve been following along successfully. Next! With the blocks completed it's time to assemble the quilt top. To do so the following is required.

From three 3½” strips cut 25 yellow 3½” x 3½” squares.

From the reddish fabric cut eight 3½” strips. From these strips cut 31 - 3½” x 9½” rectangles.

Remember to square off the fabric before cutting strips.

31 - 3½” x 9½” rectangles and 25 yellow 3½” x 3½” squares

I’m using the layout on the right, but you can decide on a different layout.

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Sew the yellow squares and reddish rectangles between each row of blocks in addition to one on top and one on the bottom.

Once the quilt top is completed all that’s required to do is to quilt it, bind it, and find a new home for it. If you’ve never done the binding before, you might want to check my post https:// quiltsocial.com/perfect-quilt-binding-by-hand-perfect-quiltbinding- by-machine/ and this other post too by Elaine Theriault, https://quiltsocial.com/7-essential- tips-for-sewing-the-bindingon-a-quilt-by-machine/.

8” Razors Edge Scissors

Before I close this series of essential sewing tools I’ll introduce a pair of RAZOR EDGE Scissors - 8" (20.3cm). Every sewist needs a good pair of fabric scissors. These have a good weight and length making them a joy to use. They may not get used often but they’ll come in handy when needed.

TIP Don’t use fabric scissors for cutting paper! Fabric scissors are for fabric only.

Last but not least, let’s not forget the handy VIVACE Craft/ Accessories Tote - Leafvines - 33 x 25 x 13cm (13in x 10in x 5in) to store all these tools and notions. This accessory tote has 24 compartments of different sizes and is the ideal size for holding all the basic tools and notions. In addition to being excellent for storing tools and notions, this tote is also very handy to bring to a workshop, sew day and retreat.

VIVACE craft and accessories tote

Completed quilt

Paul Léger

paullegerquilts.com

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I hope everyone enjoyed this tutorial on how to make this beginner crib quilt and exploring essential sewing tools. I enjoyed going back to the basics.

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Rows of blocks and horizontal lattice sewn together.

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Getting to know the Husqvarna VIKING Amber Air S600 [Tips and Features]

Elaine Theriault I'm very excited to be back, and I have something special to share with you. We're talking about sergers and quilting! What?

Technically you can do without one, but when you see how a serger can help with your quilting, you'll change your mind!

And then, when you get the urge to make garments, you're set!

You may have heard of a serger or an overlocker, two names for the same type of machine. They produce the same stitching and have two loopers – an upper looper and a lower looper.

The ability to do chain stitch or cover stitch requires a third looper, called the chain looper. I'm using the Husqvarna VIKING Amber Air S600 serger with Coverstitch, which has three loopers and is super easy to convert from serging mode to cover stitch.

Husqvarna VIKING Amber Air S600 serger

The most exciting news about this serger (besides the fact that it's also a cover stitch machine - more on that later) is that it uses air-threading technology to thread the loopers. Yes – the headache of learning how to thread the serger manually is gone.

Inside the serger, a lever switches the serger from overlock mode to threading mode. A quick rotation of the handwheel locks the looper pipes in place, and now all we have to do is insert about ½” of thread into the appropriate threading holes and hit the button on the right. A poof of air pushes the thread through the tubes and out the end of the looper. How simple is that?

Wait – I'm getting ahead of myself, but I was so excited to share the news about air threading with you!

Air threading holes for the loopers

Accessories for the serger

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A full range of accessories comes in a nice plastic box, including the Allen key needed to change the needles, spool holders, and caps to accommodate different types of spools of thread–an extra knife blade, a threading wire, and a whole lot more.

The User's Guide

The number of people who never read the User's Guide amazes me. And yet, so much information in there makes using the Amber Air S600 much easier.

Thankfully, the User's Guide is not very large (60 pages), so it won't take long to go through it! I recommend reading it in sections and sitting in front of the serger as you do so. You'll be a serger pro with a few tips and tricks in no time!

In addition, a two-sided Quick Start Guide provides step-bystep instructions for a wide 5- Thread Safety Stitch on one side and a Triple cover stitch on the other. You'll find the same information in the User's Guide, and before you know it, you won't need the Quick Start Guide or the User's Guide to thread the serger!

Like anything, the first couple of times, you might struggle, but once you understand how to thread each looper and each needle, consulting the User's Guide to know which needles and loopers you need for the particular stitch you chose is simple.

Inside the cover, you’ll find more color-coded diagrams for threading and the stitches. There's loads of room inside with only two controls, one to switch from threading to serging mode and the other to disengage the upper looper. You'll also find a place for the stylus (handy for the touch screen) and a place for the tweezers. Tweezers are necessary when working with a serger, so keeping them handy is nice.

If you haven't picked up on it, all thread paths are colorcoded – even on the top of the serger. One of the things that people struggle with on a serger is the tension. Here's a tip for threading.

The Quick Start Guide for a wide 5-thread safety stitch

TIP To avoid tension issues, ensure the thread is correctly seated under the pretension thread guide and inserted between the tension disks (inside the slots). If you don't pay attention, the thread can be sitting outside the tension disks, and you’ll never get a good stitch, no matter how much you change the tension on the serger!

There are 26 stitches on the Amber Air S600, so you have plenty to choose from. To make it easier to understand the stitches, I like to break them into two categories – the construction stitches and those used to finish the edges. That’s a rough generalization, but it works for me.

Here's another tip to help you learn which thread goes where on each stitch.

TIP When learning your new Amber Air S600 serger, use the same color thread as the thread path. This trick helps you to identify which thread is which part of each stitch, and if there's a tension issue, you'll know which tension to adjust. You'll find references to the color-coded path everywhere!

Inside the front cover

Once you understand where the threads lie on each stitch, use the appropriate colors to match your project!

Colored thread to match the color-coded thread path

Color-coded thread path on top of the serger

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The last tab gives you a description of when and how to use this chosen stitch.

We can see that this is a construction stitch for knits.

The Amber Air S600 has three different configurations. The cover shown below is called the Flat Bed Extension. Notice how much room there is to the right of the needle. There are five LED lights so you can work long hours with minimal eye fatigue.

An example of how to set up the serger for a chosen stitch

You can use the User's Guide for this, or because the Amber Air S600 is a fully computerized serger, you'll find that information on the colored screen.

The Flat Bed Extension

If you remove the Flat Bed Extension, you can access the free arm if the item you're working on is small.

The first screen for the chosen stitch provides me with a picture of the stitch.

Notice the colored ‘stitches.’ Yes – those colors match the color-coded thread path, making it easy to know which thread has an issue if it does, provided I've used the appropriate colored threads. I can also see that I'm using two needles (yellow and blue) and the upper looper (red), and the lower looper (green). The chain looper (purple) isn't necessary for this stitch.

The serger in free-arm mode

Or remove the Flat Bed Extension and use the included extension table, which gives you ample room to work on any sized project. I love the flexibility of all three modes.

Another area of serging that stumps many people is knowing which stitch to use. By becoming familiar with the stitches and putting them into either group (construction or edge finishing), and understanding which stitches are for knits and which are for woven, you'll quickly know which stitch to use and when.

A description of the chosen stitch

This serger also has an Exclusive Sewing Advisor, where you can select the type (woven or knit) and the weight (heavy, medium, light). Based on the settings in the Sewing Advisor and the stitch, the needle size, the needle(s) positions, the stitch length, tensions, and the differential are all selected!

A diagram of the selected stitch on the serger screen

The included extension table

Unlike a sewing machine, it's almost imperative that you sew with the User's Guide next to you. Inside you'll find a section devoted to the serger setup for each stitch. After you've used the serger for a while, you may not need that information, but it's always a good idea to double-check.

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The next tab provides me with the physical setup needed for this stitch.

After switching from one stitch to another several times, you'll understand all the icons and quickly move from one stitch to another in no time.

The Exclusive Sewing Advisor

And here is the main screen. Notice the stitch selected at the top. All the settings and information are easily accessible on the screen. You can use your finger or the stylus to make your selections.

An information screen to show the physical setup needed for the chosen stitch

The tensions are also automatically set depending on the stitch and selections in the Exclusive Sewing Advisor. You can override any or all of them if you need to. Again, notice the color code system.

Understanding and using this simple tool will make your life with a serger so much easier! Be sure to practice the stitches with the various colored threads, and you'll find your time well spent.

The screen for a Coverstitch narrow

Notice the needle positions changed when I move to an overlock stitch. The front needles (C, D, E) work with the chain looper, but we're getting ahead of ourselves. Notice the width for the knife blade appears, whereas, in the previous screen, set to a cover stitch, there's no setting as the knife is disabled for the cover stitches.

Saving a stitch

The tension settings

And if that isn't enough, you can save your stitches. Let's say you have a particular stitch you're using for a project.

You've got the tensions set differently than the default. It's easy to save the stitch using the Save Stitch button on the right, and the next time you work on a project, you can pull up that stitch.

How easy is that?

I'll confess that I used to be scared of sergers as I didn't understand which stitch to use nor how to adjust the tensions, But when I started to use the color-coded system with matching thread colors to practice, it became apparent which thread was used where! Like anything, the more you use and understand the serger, the more often it'll get used, and it won't stay permanently in the 4-thread overlock position.

The Husqvarna VIKING Amber Air S600 is so easy to use that it makes you want to experiment and see what other options you can do with a serger!

The settings for a four-thread overlock

Photos by Elaine Theriault

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Piecing a quilt top with the

Husqvarna VIKING Amber Air S600 [Serger] How often do you say you're off to quilt when you really mean you're piecing the quilt top? I can technically use the serger (in coverstitch mode) to quilt all three layers, and I can make a ‘quilt as you go’ project, but now let's focus on piecing!

I selected Woven Medium on the Exclusive Sewing Advisor for Woven medium and used the default settings. I love not having to fuss with tension!

So what kind of quilt would you piece on a serger? Pick something simple like squares, strips, log cabin style, or other large shapes, and avoid diagonal seams or intricate patterns.

And another tip about needles: if you move the needle from one slot to another, unthread it and ensure it's threaded through the correct tension disk!

If I had to pick a sewing machine or a serger for a jelly roll race quilt? In a heartbeat, I'd choose the serger.

What's nice is you get finished seams on the inside, so if you're thinking of making a duvet cover, pieced pillow, or cushion cover, think about using the serger. It's fast and accurate, and the project will hold up forever without worrying about frayed seams on the inside.

The three-thread wide overlock stitch

Now let's look at the four-thread overlock. It's the same stitch, except there are two straight lines of stitching because I'm using two needles and the upper and lower loopers.

Let's talk about which stitch to use.

There are two options – the three-thread or the four-thread overlock. The threethread overlock can be wide or narrow, the difference is the needle's position.

We aim to have a ¼" seam allowance, so we'll focus on the three-thread overlock wide.

The three-thread overlock uses one needle and both the upper and lower loopers. It's a durable stitch, which works great for construction.

I used beige thread for the construction, and the straight line of stitching parallel to the edge is the needle thread. The looping stitch in the first line of stitching is the upper looper, and the looping stitch on the second seam is from the lower looper. Notice how the two looper threads meet nicely at the edge of the fabric, making a well-formed stitch with balanced tension.

Here's a tip about needles. If you switch from a four-thread overlock to a threethread overlock, remove the extra needle. You don’t want to take a chance that the needle will damage your fabric or get caught in the stitch formation.

Play it safe and remove it!

A four-thread overlock seam

So where would I use one stitch over the other? If I construct a garment that will get wear and tear, I'll use the four-thread overlock to provide extra strength to the seam. The four- thread uses more thread, which isn't a concern but adds ‘weight’ to the seam allowance. In my quilt, I don't need the extra strength on the seam, nor do I want the extra ‘weight,’ so a three-thread wide overlock works just fine.

Let's talk about the stitch width and length. Depending on the type of fabric and stitch, you'll get a default stitch length, and if you wish to change the length, it's easy to do on the screen of the Amber Air S600. The needle position or the cutting width dial changes the stitch width. I'm using the left-most needle position, and the cutter is set to 6.5, giving me the desired ¼" seam allowance. It doesn't get any easier than that!

I wanted to make a jelly roll quilt but didn't have an extra jelly roll, so I cut up a fabric grouping into 2½" strips (can be any width – you choose) and then sewed the short ends together until they made one long strip. Here's a bonus when using the serger to do this – you do not need to remove the selvages, as you'll cut them off as you sew the two strips together.

I chain pieced as I would on a sewing machine, and once I finished the entire batch of strips, I cut them apart. There's no need to backstitch.

No need to trim the thread ends from chain piecing.

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Keep repeating this process until you have a strip set that is 16 strips wide.

Grab both ends one last time and serge them together.

There's no need to trim the thread ends exactly, as they'll get cut off with the knife and secured when you stitch the next line of stitching.

Two strips serged and pressed

As you can see in the waste tray, I'm cutting off threads and the selvages but nothing from the edges of my strips.

Strata of eight strips at the ironing board

At the end of each seam, I use scissors to cut the section in half. Do this just before you reach the end of the seam.

The thread ends will get cut off with the next seam.

While the knife is still engaged, I'm not using it to cut, but I'm using it as a guide to run the edge of my fabric along. The cutter removes the extra thread from the ends of the stitching and any errant threads that have ravelled off.

Scrap threads in the waste tray

It's now time to grab both ends and start serging them together. It doesn't matter if the long strip has a twist; you can cut it apart when you arrive at the end.

Then I take the time to press the long seam with steam, and I keep it neatly lined up so the next time I grab both ends, I know that it's not twisted.

Use scissors to cut the bottom section.

It's time to sit back and admire the quilt top. Check the size – if it's right, you can stop, or add borders to make the project larger.

Using the knife as a guide

Although I had only recently cut the strips, they’re starting to fray badly, so serging those seams is good. I press everything as I go so it doesn't become a massive job when the top is together.

Notice that even when pressed, you don’t see the stitches from the good side which is another sign that the tension is well-balanced for this stitch.

Pressing the long seam for the jelly roll quilt.

Then grab both ends and repeat the process. Again, I press the seam with steam and keep it neatly lined up for the next seam.

The next seam is also pressed and neatly laid out.

The jelly roll quilt

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Look at the back of the quilt. Those seams are beautifully finished and won’t go anywhere. Imagine the inside of a duvet cover. Serging a duvet cover is a perfect solution, allowing you to wash the cover and not worry about a mess of threads inside.

The bottom line of stitching is with a differential setting of 1, where both feed teeth move at the same speed. But on the top line of stitching, the differential is at its highest, meaning the front feed teeth move twice as fast as the rear feed teeth.

It almost appears that it gathered the edge of the fabric, as that edge is pulled in smaller than the bottom stitch line.

The wrong side of the serged quilt top

A line of stitching with the differential at 2.0

I've decided to add borders to my quilt, and yes – I will put them on with the serger. Use the same process as you do to piece a quilt. Measure through the quilt's center and cut the side borders to that measurement. Pin them on and serge them. Press them to the border and then measure for the top and bottom borders.

I used the same fabric on this next sample but set the differential to 0.6.

The front feed teeth move slower than the back. Notice how rippled the knit fabric is. It's a good idea to try knits and wovens with different settings on the differential so you understand how it works and where it can help you with any project. Experimenting – that's the only way to learn.

The inevitable will happen where the border or the quilt will be longer than the other. What to do? You can use the differential on the serger to help you.

There is a front and back set of feed teeth on a serger instead of one set that you'll find on a sewing machine. The back feed teeth move at a constant speed, but you can change the speed of the front feed teeth, allowing the differential to ease in excess fabric or create waves.

Many people don't understand the nature of what the differential will do, so here's some experimenting.

I've used a single layer of knit fabric and stitched several lines with different differential settings.

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The borders on my quilt were good, so I didn't need the differential, but I know how to use it!

My jelly roll quilt with a border

Here's a tip about pins! If you pin your borders on, and I highly recommend that you do, pin them perpendicular to your project and have them stick out to the right. This procedure makes them noticeable and easy to remove, as you don’t want to run the pin into the knife blade, as that's a bad thing!

The top line of stitching with a differential of 0.6 Remove the pin before it reaches the knife.

So there you have it. Piecing on the serger is a piece of cake! Set the stitch, choose your neutral threads, and start stitching. It's fast!

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ways to use a serger for your quilting and sewing projects 3. Tidy edges

Here are more reasons why you, as a quilter, will want a serger. And I'm throwing in a few extras, just because!

Another great way to use your serger is to tidy up the edges of your quilt project.

If you quilt your project on a domestic machine, chances are you haven't quilted right to the edge, and it's three distinct layers, which makes it difficult to attach the binding.

1. No more fraying Do you prewash your fabric? Aren't you tired of the frayed mess when you open the dryer? If you serge the raw edges of your yardage, the pieces will come out of the dryer with no fraying.

I tried several different fabric types, and it worked beautifully on all of them.

The results of washing a rayon/linen blend

Since I was only finishing the raw edge, I didn't need a construction stitch, so I chose the two-thread overlock.

Switching from one stitch to another used to be scary, but if you select the stitch on the drop-down menu on the screen and follow the steps, you'll have no issues moving from stitch to stitch.

2. Piece and trim in one step

The two-thread overlock

Serging a quilt back

Notice the serged edge on the quilter's cotton didn't fray, while the unserged edge is a mess.

I love how fast this is. I'll use a four-thread overlock for this seam as the seam will get more wear and tear, and the two needle threads will provide a stronger seam. Look at that beautiful four-thread overlock!

If you need to make a backing for a quilt, you likely have to piece large pieces of fabric together, and you likely have to trim off the selvages. Guess what? You can do both in one step on the serger.

The unquilted corner of a project

It's easy to serge around the outer edges, securing the three loose layers so they’re one. Attaching the binding will be easy, with no danger of tucks. I used a four-thread overlock, but I could’ve used a two or three-thread overlock, as this is not a construction seam. When I attach my binding (cut 2½" strips), I use a slightly wider than ¼" seam allowance so this serged seam disappears inside the binding.

Serge the edge to secure the layers.

You can even use the serger to attach the binding to the quilt, as you do with your sewing machine. I haven't tried that yet, but why not?

The serged seam didn't fray.

Here's a rayon/linen blend that I also washed, and look at all the fraying. The fraying probably isn't a big deal, but wash several pieces of fabric together, and it becomes one big thread ball.

A four-thread overlock

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4. Easy tote bags

5. Piecing a fleece blanket

Quilters love to make tote bags. Let's say you're constructing a tote bag from a preprinted panel. Sometimes, the fabric doesn't behave quite how it should, and if you decide not to put a lining in, those seams will fray.

You can also use the Amber Air S600 to use up your fleece scraps. If you make fleece garments or use fleece for the backing of a quilt, you'll end up with leftovers. I cut the pieces into squares (you can piece sections together to get the square size you need).

Then serge them together. I used a decorative thread (30wt variegated) in the upper looper to give a decorative edge to the stitch.

These blankets are perfect for donating to your favorite charity for young children or make them a bit smaller and donate them to the pet shelter. Either way, it's a great way to use up scraps and get more practice with your serger.

A preprinted panel for a tote bag

The weave is relatively loose, and you can see along the edge that this fabric will fray if the edges are left unfinished.

6. Create fancy trims Flatlock seam on fleece with variegated thread

The other side of the flatlock stitch is the ladder stitch. Experiment with different stitches to see which one you prefer.

The finished edge

I fused my interlining to the panel to give the bag body, and then I serged around all the edges. Those threads aren't going anywhere now! I used a four-thread overlock, but I could’ve used a two-thread overlock for this part and then used the four-thread overlock to sew them together. Or, I could’ve left the edges unfinished and used the fourthread to construct the tote bag. In this instance, someone else used the sewing machine to assemble the tote bag, so I only finished the edges for them. Lots of options!

The back of the fleece blanket

Another use for the flatlock stitch is to create a fancy trim along each seam. In this instance, I made a log cabin block and used a flatlock stitch. One side looks like a serged seam, while the other looks like a ladder stitch. You can weave a narrow ribbon through the ‘rungs’ to get a completely different look. How about using contrasting threads and ribbons to jazz up the blocks?

I'm using the same flatlock stitch I used for the fleece blanket, but now the ladder stitch has become the right side.

It's a very versatile stitch!

The ladder side of the flatlock stitch

It's so fast and easy to make, and the variegated thread puts a pop of color in those solids squares of color.

A ribbon woven into the ‘rungs’ of the flatlock stitch

It takes a bit of time, and I use a weaving needle to help keep the ribbon from twisting, but the effect is beautiful and worth the time.

The edges are fraying.

Scrap pieces of fleece make a fleece blanket.

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The Amber Air S600 had no problem going through all those layers.

And here's the back.

The back of the quilt-as-you-go placemat A wonky log cabin block with ribbon along each seam

8. Create piping

7. Easy quilt-as-you-go

Dress up your quilts with piping you can create with your serger. What's the advantage of making piping on the serger over the sewing machine? The seam allowance gets trimmed as you make the piping! It's super easy to make piping using the optional piping foot. Be sure to check with your dealer to discuss the options for the cord diameter you'll use and compatibility with your serger.

Here's one more thing you can do with the Amber Air S600. Why not make a quilt-as-you- go? Horizontal or vertical strips or a log cabin style are perfect for this quick quilt. Don't make the strips too small or too wide; somewhere between 2" and 6" is good, and choose the strip's width depending on the project size. So the larger the quilt, the wider the strip.

You’re serging the project together in sections, and it's critical to layer them in the correct order. The top section (left) consists of two strips of the quilt top, with the right sides together, and a batting strip. The bottom section consists of two strips of the backing, the right sides together, and a batting strip.

Stitching through four layers of fabric and two layers of batting

Again, this type of project is great for using up scraps. Make the project small enough for a placemat or a pet mat.

Serge the seam. Open it up and press, and add another strip of backing (right sides to the backing); the top strip should be right sides to the top, and the batting can be on the top or the bottom.

Continue until the project is as large as you want, and bind the edges.

A sample of piping with the piping foot

Piping can add a beautiful finish to the edge of a quilt, and it's so fast using the Husqvarna VIKING Amber Air S600.

The front of the quilt-as-you-go placemat

Preparing the first seam in a quilt-as-you-go project

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9. Insert a zipper And one more thing you can do with your serger, which doesn't have anything to do with quilts, but did you know you can insert a zipper with a serger? Use a zipper that is longer than you need and serge on and off, and the zipper will be in with a beautifully finished edge on the inside.

You can't beat the finished seam look with the zipper.

Piping inside the binding

A zipper inserted with a serger

The finished seams on the zipper

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And there you have it – 9 things you can do with your serger. Yes, you have to change the stitches, which means switching needles or threading loopers, but with the Husqvarna VIKING Amber Air S600, switching from one stitch to another is a breeze. I joyfully cut all my threads and start over each time I switch.

I was not a fan of serging and primarily used a four-thread overlock. The ease of use of the Husqvarna VIKING Amber Air S600 was a game changer for my serging!

Why a coverstitch machine is a valuable tool Well, are you convinced about the usefulness of a serger? The more I use the Husqvarna VIKING Amber Air S600, the more I love it and the more uses I find.

Another type of stitch is the coverstitch, used to achieve a professional look on knit garments.

I didn't have much experience with a coverstitch machine, so it was exciting to have the opportunity to test it out.

So what exactly is a coverstitch, and why would you want (need) one? First, I'll show you the main difference between an overlock and a coverstitch machine.

The Amber Air S600 has an extra looper called the chain looper, which sits in front of the upper and lower loopers.

You can see the upper looper in the back, the lower looper in the middle, and the chain looper in front.

Three additional needle positions work with the chain looper. You'll find functions on the serger to allow you to use the chain looper, but the looper and the extra needle positions are the main physical differences.

Coverstitch used to hem a knit garment

One of the hassles with using a coverstitch machine was converting it from overlock mode to coverstitch mode. I'm thrilled to say there are a few simple steps on the Amber Air S600, and you're in coverstitch, and it's equally easy to convert back to overlock.

Start by selecting the appropriate stitch from the menu on the touch screen.

Then you'll find a list of things that need to be changed. Get to know those symbols, and you're good to go. I've got the process memorized; it's that simple.

Stitching on the wrong side of the fabric, with a decorative thread in the looper, can create beautiful decorative stitches.

Did you know that? I didn't! Use a 30wt decorative thread in the looper to get beautiful decorative stitches using the coverstitch and chain stitches.

The wider stitch in this photo is the narrow coverstitch, and the narrower line of stitching is the chain stitch, also stitched on the wrong side with a decorative thread in the looper.

The information screen shows the physical setup to convert to the coverstitch.

The first thing on the list is to change the Cutter Cover to the Coverstitch Table, but I do that one last.

So I start by lowering the upper cutter, which is simple. Pull the knob out and rotate the blade downward.

The three loopers on a coverstitch serger

The extra looper allows you to stitch a four or five-thread safety stitch, providing additional security to a serged seam. It’s a line of stitching (chain stitch is shown in yellow thread) combined with the three or four-thread overlock.

Coverstitch and chain stitch are used as decorative elements.

And the last stitch type is the chain stitch, used for construction, hemming, or decorative purposes. See an example in the photo above.

Pull the knob out and rotate it down to disengage the upper cutter.

It's easy to convert from overlock to coverstitch.

Examples of a safety stitch

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Ensure the two-thread converter is not engaged.

That's super easy to ensure.

You also want to disengage the upper looper, which is also easy, by lowering it to the lowest point and then moving a lever to disengage it. Note the upper cutter is not in the down position in the second photo.

Move the stitch finger from N to R. Ensure the pressure foot presser is at N for normal.

The two-thread converter is not engaged.

And the last thing is to change the cover, which is equally easy to switch out the cutting cover for the coverstitch table.

The upper looper is in the lowest position.

The coverstitch table

Lastly, insert the needles in the correct position (also shown on the touch screen), thread the loopers (air threading – yeah) and the needles, and you're good to go. Not counting the needles, I can switch from one mode to another in less than one minute. LOVE! Let's talk a bit more about the coverstitch. You have several options on the Amber Air S600, and all you need to do is select the one you want, change the settings, and start hemming!

The free arm can help when it comes to using the coverstitch in a tight space.

The stitch finger control

Using the coverstitch in free-arm mode

The presser foot pressure dial

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And this is what the inside of the coverstitch looks like. It does take some practice to get it lined up at the right spot; otherwise, you may have to trim the excess hem with scissors. I took extra care to ensure the edge of my hem was ‘hidden’ inside the stitching line.

The coverstitch hemmer

The right and wrong sides of a coverstitch hem on a knit garment

There's a coverstitch hemmer to help with hemming a garment. The trick is pressing the hem, getting it seated correctly in the hemmer, going slow, and checking that the folded fabric hasn't shifted. With some practice, you'll be doing professionallooking hems in no time.

Using the push pin with the row of holes on the extension table, you can make circular patterns using the cover and chain stitch. Don't forget those decorative threads!

Remember, depending on the look you want, you can use either side of the coverstitch and chain stitches. I recommend using the included knee lift with the coverstitch if you’re going on and off the edge of your fabric. A coverstitch is not as easy to serge off as we do with an overlock stitch, and it's best to stitch onto a scrap of fabric at the end of each line of stitching. Hence the knee lift will come in hand.

Using the push pin and the holes on the extension table to get circular patterns

WOW! Who knew you could do all that with a coverstitch? I thought it was only for hemming T-shirts!

This article is not a tutorial, and there are many tips and tricks that I haven't mentioned about the coverstiching and chain stitching.

The knee lift

The Husqvarna VIKING Amber Air S600 in coverstitch mode is fantastic. Now that I know how easy it is to convert from coverstitch to overlock mode, I'll use it much more.

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8 I’ve discovered that many sewists are afraid of a serger. They’re convinced they need one and then it sits in the box. I wasn’t totally frightened off, but I was hesitant as I didn’t have a lot of experience and if something went wrong, how would I fix it?

So I thought I’d share with you, some of the things to watch for! Of course, having a great serger like the Husqvarna VIKING Amber Air S600 makes it so much easier to work with because of the computerized screen and the air threading.

The first thing to do, which pretty much makes the rest of the setup foolproof is to select the appropriate stitch from the pull-down menu.

things to check if things go wrong when using a serger And don’t forget to thread the needles!

I’ve been so excited by the air-threading the loopers that I completely forget to thread the needles and then wonder why the stitch isn’t working. I thread the needles by eye, but a handy manual needle threader is in the accessory box.

2 The other thing to pay attention to Coverstitch Narrow #25 and its details

However, there are a few things I want to highlight.

is ensuring the threads go through the tension disks. I’ve got caught a couple of times on this and I have only myself to blame. If you look at this thread, you can see it’s sitting outside the tension disks.

1 The first is about the needles.

Depending on the stitch you select, you have up to five different needle positions to choose from. Which ones to use?

This thread sits outside the tension disk.

Coverstitch selection from the pull-down menu

When you go into the information screens, you’ll see what needles to use, and what physical setup you need and if you follow that, you’ll pretty much solve all the problems you may encounter!

The how-to information screen solves pretty much every issue you might have.

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Needle slots A, B, C, D, and E

If the needles are not inserted in the correct position, the stitch will not be formed properly. And be sure to insert those needles into the top of the appropriate slot. You’ll notice that the needles in the A and B positions are not parallel to each other, and they are not supposed to be. It has something to do with how they work the loopers and form the stitch.

If you switch a needle from Position A to B or any other position, do not just switch the needle. Rethread the needle to ensure the thread goes through the appropriate tension disks.

It doesn’t matter how much you play with the tension settings; nothing will change with your stitch. So if you’re playing with the tension settings and nothing happens, check that the thread is properly seated in the disks. It’s a good idea to ‘floss’ the thread into the disks every time you thread them. You'll never have issues if you get into this habit from the start.

And then with the auto tension settings, depending on the weight and type of fabric you’re using, tension issues should be a thing of the past with the Amber Air S600.

There are thread guides, so make sure you get the thread properly into them. This one changes the needle thread direction as it goes to the needle. Be sure, the thread sits underneath it and not along the front. I’ve never had it misguided in this part, but best to be aware that it may be if you don’t pay attention. The way the guide is designed, I think you’d have to do something very wrong for it to miss that spot.

This thread guide changes the needle thread direction as it goes to the needle.

There are more guides above the needle; check the User’s Guide to see where the thread needs to go. These guides help to keep the multiple needle threads separate.

Threads for the loopers must be in the appropriate slots as they enter the air threading tubes.

4 Something else to keep in mind is that you’re in threading

mode or serging mode. Thankfully, the Amber Air S600 has an ingenious notch on the lid. So if you forget to move

from threading mode to serging mode, that notch will not allow the cover to close. AHA – then you move the lever to serging mode and you’re ready to go! You have to love all the things the engineers have done to make serging a snap with the Amber Air S600.

Two guides help keep the multiple needle threads separate.

3 You also want to ensure your threads for the loopers are in the appropriate slots as they enter the air threading tubes. I have to say that I’ve never had issues with this, but these are things to double-check if you’re running into problems.

You’ll notice that there is zero slack in the threads as they go into the air threading tubes. When you’re threading, be sure to leave about 18” of loose thread before you hit the air button.

That leaves enough length for the thread to be pushed through the tube and come out of the looper.

Make sure to switch the threading mode or serging mode!

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5 Another thing to check and again, this is listed in the list of physical attributes for each stitch, but are you supposed to be using the upper looper or is it supposed to be disengaged?

Check the lever in the bottom to see what position the upper looper is in. A, the looper is engaged, B, the looper is parked.

Checking to make sure the stitch finger hasn’t been left in the R position.

8 Also, check the upper cutter. If your fabric isn’t cutting clean

or not at all, check if the cutter is up or down. Perhaps the cutter got damaged or needs replacing.

A, the looper is engaged, B, the looper is parked.

6 Depending on which stitch you’re using, is whether the two-thread converter is needed. This is built-in and is easy to flip out of use or snap into place into the upper looper.

The bottom line is that the Husqvarna VIKING Amber Air S600 serger is a game changer when it comes to serging. It’s easy to select the appropriate stitch, it’s super easy to convert from overlock (serging) to coverstitch, the computerized screen eliminates the need for the User’s Guide and well, it just doesn’t get any easier than that to serge.

I was a timid serger before, but now? I feel like a serger queen and I can serge pretty much anything!

Be sure to check it out at your local Husqvarna VIKING dealer.

You won’t be disappointed. Have a great day! Ciao!

The two-thread converter

While this may sound complicated, it’s so easy with the information screen available to show you how each physical feature needs to be set up. I’m a big fan of using the User’s Guide but you don’t need it with the Amber Air S600.

7 One other thing to check is the stitch finger. If your stitch

appears to be rolling when it should be flat, check to make sure the stitch finger hasn’t been left in the R position. And I have to say that it’s pretty satisfying to know by looking at a stitch if that’s happened. This didn’t take long for me to learn and it’s all so easy!!!!!

Elaine Theriault

crazyquilteronabike.blogspot.com

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If your fabric isn’t cutting clean or not at all, check if the cutter is up or down.

A needle pulling thread

QUILT SEW KNIT CROCHET CROSS STITCH EMBROIDER HOOK RUGS

Issue

65

Visit www.ANPTmag.com to order

Get quilting!

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Recovering a lampshade with

Mont Marte art supplies - Part 1 Mont Marte makes a wide range of art materials so all kinds of creatives can access affordable, high-quality art supplies. When I was presented with the awesome line of Mont Marte Signature Fabric Paint Set, Mont Marte Signature Fabric Art Set, Mont Marte Fabric Paint Sticks and other artist tools, I knew immediately what projects I had in mind.

I’ll show you how to paint, color and sew 3 easy projects including a DIY lampshade recover, a beach tote, and a customized apron. These projects can translate into some amazing summer projects with the kiddos once they’re home from school this summer.

This project is a DIY lampshade recover made with Fabric Creations 100% Cotton Fabric, Mont Marte Signature Fabric Paint Set, Mont Marte Visual Art Diary A4 Mont Marte Acrylic Brush Set, ODIF 404 Spray and Fix Permanent Repositionable Adhesive for Craft Material and large UNIQUE Quilting Clever Clips.

Reduce, reuse, recycle and sew this gorgeous lampshade!

Robin Bogaert

materials fabric • cotton fabric – ¾yd (light-colored fabric, white or beige is recommended) thread • GÜTERMANN MCT Sew-All Thread 100m- Black • GÜTERMANN Cotton 12 wt. 200m Thread notions • lampshade that needs recovering • fabric paint • acrylic paint brushes • large UNIQUE Quilting Clever Clips • sketchbook • sketch pencil • paper to protect your painting surface • repositionable craft adhesive spray • Mont Marte Round Plastic Palette • paper to make a pattern for the lampshade • scissors • paper towel (optional) • white freezer paper feet/machine accessories suggestions • free motion quilting foot equipment • sewing machine • iron

DIY Lamp Shade Recover

Materials needed for a DIY lampshade recover project

Cutting away exterior fabric

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Photos by Robin Bogaert

instructions 1. Cut away any exterior fabric or textured fabric from the lampshade as shown in the following picture.

2. Watch the following video for pattern-making steps.

3. In your sketchbook, draw a design of what you want the lampshade to look like.

4. Using a sharpened sketch pencil, draw out a design on the right side of the lampshade cover fabric.

5. Press the fabric wrong side down to the shiny side of a piece of freezer paper.

This project is now all prepped and ready for the fun part – the painting and sewing.

I used a sketch pencil and sketchbook to draw out my design before recovering the lampshade.

Design drawn on the right side of the lampshade cover fabric

Freezer paper adhered to the wrong side of the fabric with the design facing upwards

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Getting creative with

Mont Marte fabric paints - Part 2 6. Wipe the excess paint off the brushes with the paper towel or wash the brushes between color changes with warm soapy water and rinse well.

Let's show you how to paint the lampshade cover with this gorgeous paint.

All supplies laid out ready to paint

3. It’s recommended to paint one color at a time so that only one or two bottles are open to prevent other paints from drying.

7. Think of the direction of the sun and add ‘light’ to the edge of the petals so they look like they’re sun-kissed.

To do this, mix white paint with the flower, and leaf colors.

8. Blend colors, as needed. These fabric paints perform well and are easily blended.

Fabric paint all laid out, ready to choose colors

Here are some observations about Mont Marte Signature Fabric Paint Set.

• It’s thick.

• It’s pourable.

• It’s mixable to create an even bigger palette.

• It’s easily blended.

• It’s recommended to use it thinly to avoid cracking when it dries.

• It’s colorful and stays bright when dried.

• It has saturated color.

• This fabric paint does not bleed when applied to the cotton fabric.

• It comes in many colors (up to 36).

• Clean up brushes, palette, and table with ease using warm soapy water.

• Heat set with an iron for 3-5 minutes.

• Washable on cold cycle.

• There are an unfathomable number

Using pink and white paint first to prevent drying of other paints

4. It's recommended to use the finer brushes for this design: #6 round, #1 round, #1 liner, #4 filbert.

Painted leaves, stems, magenta and pink flowers

5. Move on to other colors and fill in all flowers, leaves, and the sun, painting carefully to avoid going over the pencil sketch lines; refer to photos.

TIP Don’t be afraid to mix colors if you need different greens. Add white, black, or yellow as a suggestion to change the colors. These paints are very mixable and you can create many colors.

Finishing up the painting on the lampshade cover

of ideas to use with this paint; you’re only limited by imagination.

instructions 1. Cut away excess freezer paper from the lampshade cover.

2. Lay out all supplies, paint, brushes, plastic paint palette, the lampshade cover, paper towels and a small test piece of fabric.

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The lampshade cover with the painting completed Painting the magenta and crimson flowers

Free motion stitching on a DIY lampshade cover - Part 3 Now let's free motion stitch the floral designs with GÜTERMANN Thread and recover the lampshade with large UNIQUE Quilting Clever Clips and ODIF 404 Spray and Fix Permanent Repositionable Adhesive for Craft Material.

6. If available, place the needle of the machine in the needle down position.

7. Bring the bobbin thread up to the top of the design before starting to stitch, to avoid thread nests while stitching.

Free motion stitching around one of the flowers with 100% cotton thread outlines the flower nicely.

Paint and thread, a match made in heaven to make a very pretty lampshade cover.

instructions 1. Leave the freezer paper on the painted lampshade cover; it will act as a stabilizer for the stitching.

2. Insert a free motion quilting foot on the sewing machine.

3. Lower the feed dogs on the sewing machine.

Bobbin thread brought up to the top of the design before stitching

4. Fill a bobbin with 50wt polyester thread.

8. Stitch slowly around the flowers and leaves to outline all the details.

Free motion stitching is used to outline these flowers.

TIP Use quilting gloves to get an effective grip on the fabric and assist you with the free motion stitching process; it also helps to avoid hand and shoulder fatigue.

9. If you’re interested in looking into taking a Free Motion Quilting class to hone your unique skills, have a look at my website Classes and Teaching.

Use Gütermann 100% Cotton on top and Gütermann MCT Sew-All Thread in the bobbin.

5. Run a bobbin of polyester thread, and 100% cotton 12wt on the top spool pin. The heavier cotton thread shows up very well as an outline and enhances the colorful paint.

Getting there – free motion stitching around all the details

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10. Remove the freezer paper carefully from the back of the lampshade fabric.

Hold the stitches down with one hand as you tear away the fabric. Use tweezers, if necessary, in small areas.

TIP Use a pin to score the freezer paper to help you remove the paper.

What the freezer paper looks like on the back once the stitching is done

Removing the freezer paper

11. Heat set the stitched and painted lampshade cover by placing a paper towel or thin cloth over the design on the right side, and ironing on the cotton setting for 3-5 minutes to fix the artwork.

Ooh, it’s done and ready for spring!

12. Upholster the lampshade cover to the lampshade by referring to the video from the article Recovering a lampshade with Mont Marte art supplies. ODIF 404 Spray and Fix Permanent Repositionable Adhesive for Craft Material and large UNIQUE Quilting Clever Clips are the perfect notions to assist in the process of completing the recovering process.

They act as glue to hold the lampshade cover and a second set of hands.

UNIQUE Quilting Clever Clips

The lampshade cover was such a fun and effective process and we learned the Mont Marte Signature Fabric Paint Set is not only amazing but can be used for beautiful DIY homewares. I bet we all can think of so many more creative ideas.

Heat setting the artwork with a hot iron and paper towel

Free Motion Stitching with 100% cotton thread is complete.

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Lampshade covered with embellished lampshade fabric using fabric adhesive and clever clips

Design, color, and Stitch a beach tote with

Mont Marte I’m showing you how to embellish and stitch an adorable beach tote with Mont Marte and their Mont Marte Signature Fabric Art Set. This art set includes fabric markers, fabric paint sticks, puffy paints and the canvas tote making it an easy DIY project. This can be a great project to do with children. materials • Mont Marte Signature Fabric Art Set with canvas tote included • fine permanent marker • blue wash-out pen or pencil • sketch pad • sketching pencil • eraser • medium rickrack • pre-sketched design of your choice • ruler to mark center and lettering lines • black thread for bobbin and top spool • iron for heat setting instructions

The embellished canvas beach tote

Materials you need to make an embellished beach tote

1. Take the tote bag out of the Mont Marte Signature Fabric Art Set and prewash it. If you’re using any other blank tote bag, be sure to prewash and do not use fabric softener as it may interfere with marker pigments.

2. Draw a design; I chose Fun in The Sun (my own sketch).

2 sketches of designs for the front of a canvas tote – I chose Fun in The Sun!

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3. Find the center of the tote and plan out the lettering placement with a ruler and a blue wash-out marker.

5. Outline the blue lines with a black fine, permanent marker.

9. Stitch with free motion stitching around all the black lines

TIP Make sure this marker is colorfast by testing it on a piece of fabric first. Spray test the lines with water to saturate the canvas - if it doesn’t bleed it’s good to use.

TIP You’ll need to remove any machine table and use the free arm to free motion sew the outlines.

Finding the center and making lines on the canvas tote for letter placement

4. Draw the design with a blue washout marker by referring to the sketch and use a ruler where necessary.

The design is outlined with a black fine permanent marker.

6. Wash out the blue marker and allow the bag to dry completely.

7. Color in all of the designs with the art supplies from the Mont Marte Signature Fabric Art Set. I used markers and paint sticks.

8. Sew rickrack to the top edge of the canvas tote ¾” from the top.

Free motion outlining with the free arm of the sewing machine

Can you see this tote bag as a great project for the kids to color? Additionally, you can free motion stitch it as a collaborative effort. It’s sew easy with the Mont Marte Signature Fabric Art Set with a canvas bag included. Alternatively, make many more of your own totes for all your kids, nieces, nephews, friends, and grandkids. The markers and paint sticks last a long time and you can get many projects done with Mont Marte art supplies.

A design drawn with a blue wash out marker

Canvas tote embellished with the Mont Marte Signature Fabric Art Set, Gütermann Thread, and UNIQUE Medium rickrack in pink

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Painting on fabric is fun with

]

Mont Marte fabric paints I’m showing you how to ‘bake someone happy’ with the Mont Marte Fabric Paint Sticks. To make things easy, we’ll also be using Gütermann Thread and an adultsized Fabric Fun Apron for Embellishment.

There’s a free pattern download, so you don’t even have to sketch out a drawing for this one.

Bake someone Happy design on an apron

materials • sketchbook and sketching pencil • If you don’t want to draw, download the free Bake Someone Happy design • blue wash out marker • light box or light source • paint sticks or markers • polyester (bobbin) and 100% cotton thread (top threading) • Fabric Fun Apron for Embellishment or a premade apron of your choice (light colored so tracing is easy) • masking tape

instructions 1. Draw out a design of your choice or download the free PDF drawing for the Bake someone Happy

3. Using a ruler, place the lightbox and design under the apron against the wrong side 3½” from the top and center.

My ‘Bake someone Happy’ design

The design is centered and 3½” down from the top

2. Place the drawing on a light source or light box, and use masking tape to keep it in place.

4. Draw the design onto the apron with a blue washout marker.

Design taped on a lightbox

Design drawn on apron with a blue wash out marker

Supplies to make the embellished apron

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5. Color within the design lines with the fabric paint sticks.

6. Once the design is all colored in, free motion stitch around the design as for free motion stitching on a DIY lampshade cover - Part 3, to complete it. The word ‘someone’ is completely free motion stitched. Where there is a black line, stitch it out and fill in the blank areas with the colors of your choice.

We finished all of our projects for this feature – the DIY Lampshade Recover, the cute Beach Tote, and now a Bake someone Happy apron with Mont Marte Signature Fabric Paint, Art Set and Paint Sticks. Don’t forget to look for these products shortly at your local art supply or quilt shop.

You can create fabric to make DIY fashion and homewares with Mont Marte. Enjoy the useful and creative products, maybe you’ll have time to bake someone happy!

Coloring in the design with paint sticks

More progress on the coloring

This apron will come in handy when Robin bakes someone happy

Robin Bogaert

quiltingintheloft.com

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don't miss these projects & tutorials online!

READ NOW

Unboxing the NEW HUSQVARNA VIKING DESIGNER EPIC 3 READ NOW

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Repurposing men’s shirt fabrics: Wonky quilt block placemat Quilt-as-you-go scrappy mug rug Improv strip-pieced placemat

Scrap Quilt 3 – working with 1½” x 1½” fabric scraps READ NOW

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and there's so much more!

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Introducing the PFAFF powerquilter 1600 Long Arm Quilting Machine Elaine Theriault

The PFAFF powerquilter 1600 sit-down quilting machine

I get to explore the PFAFF powerquilter 1600 Long Arm Quilting Machine, which is pretty impressive, and you’ll see some of the exciting reasons.

The powerquilter 1600 is a dedicated sit-down quilting machine, and until you quilt on one, you have no idea what you’re missing.

I’ve not had much chance to quilt with a sit-down quilting machine in all my years of quilting. As much as I love quilting on a domestic sewing machine, I find dealing with the bulk of the quilt to be physically exhausting and stressful for my body, especially for extended periods of quilting. While my domestic machine has a larger throat space, and I use a large extension table, there’s no comparison between quilting on the domestic sewing and the sitdown quilting machines.

Don’t get me wrong, the domestic sewing machine is a great quilting machine, but the dedicated sit-down quilting machine is so much easier to quilt on, and I could quilt all day on it and not get tired.

So when I had the chance to give the powerquilter 1600 a try, I said yes.

About five minutes into my first project, I said this is the way to go for sit-down quilting. And I’m not the only one! When the powerquilter 1600 was at my house, someone else came to try it.

They’ve done a lot of quilting on a domestic sewing machine, but they also struggled with the same issues as I did. Within five minutes, she was working out her budget to buy one! Oh yes – it makes so much difference, you won’t believe it!

So what’s the big deal? Well, have a look at this.

The PFAFF powerquilter 1600

First, look at the throat space on the powerquilter 1600. There is 16” of throat space from the needle to the tower, which is pretty substantial and beats any domestic sewing machine on the market.

Not only do you have the distance from the needle to the tower, but you have the height of the throat space, which is 8”! That’s more than enough to put any sized quilt under the needle.

Second, look at the table that comes with the powerquilt 1600! The table is 36” x 30”, so it’s pretty substantial, and the best part is the entire surface is flat. There’s no danger of your quilt getting caught on the edge of an extension table.

The sensors for the built-in stitch regulator

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Photos by Elaine Theriault

An optional extension table

The built-in four-spool thread stand

Third, did you notice how the quilting machine sits on the table? Yes – you sit at the head of the quilting machine (don’t worry, all the controls are on the panel directly in front of

If you’re constantly quilting huge quilts and feel the 36” x 30” table isn’t large enough, there’s an optional table extension. It measures 18” x 30”, and you can add one or two to

you). But this means there’s wide open space to the left and right of the needle, giving you so much freedom of movement.

the existing table. They’re easy to install and fold down when you don’t need them. If you add one to both sides of the current table, you’ll have a workspace of 72” x 30”, which is huge.

OK – sign me up! I want this!

Now let’s just back up for one minute.

The powerquilter 1600 comes in two boxes; one for the quilting machine and one for the table. Assembling the table is easy, and with a few screws and a couple of Allen Keys, I had the table together in no time. Once the table is together, connecting all the cables is easy, and you can be quilting in no time. You’ll find the tools and hardware in the box; both boxes are heavy, so it’s a job for two people, although one person can do it if they’re strong!

Now here’s something super exciting about the powerquilter 1600. See those two spots near the needle. Do you know what they are?’

The PFAFF powerquilter 1600 is an industrial quilting machine, and since I’ll be quilting a lot, I don’t want to deal with small spools of thread and external thread stands. No worries, as there’s a beautiful four-spool thread stand. Now even though it’s called a ‘spool’ stand, it’s meant for cones of thread, although you can use any size spool of thread on it.

We may not be using multiple strands of thread in the quilting process, but if I’m changing thread colors, the other colors are handy on the thread stand and not falling on the floor if they sit on the table.

The last two features I will mention here are the motor and the lighting.

The motor is powerful and can stitch up to 2,100 stitches per minute. OK – I don’t know about you, but I don’t think I could keep up with it. But that’s OK, as it means I’ll never outgrow the speed and stitching capabilities of the powerquilter 1600.

The other feature I love is the lighting.

The LED lights are intense, which is excellent for seeing what you are quilting, especially if you’re quilting on dark fabric with a dark thread. The glare of the light on the table is very intense, but the moment I place my quilt on the table, the glare disappears.

There are two sets of lights; one set surrounds the needle, and the second is in the middle of the throat space, providing more than ample light for all your projects.

Well? What do you think? I can’t wait to quilt something! Next, I finish listing all the features and benefits of the PFAFF powerquilter 1600! Let's get it threaded!

Those are the sensors for the stitch regulator! Yes – the powerquilter 1600 has built-in stitch regulation. OK – does this machine get any better? Trust me – it does!

Notice the transition from the machine to the built-in stitch regulator insert, and the table is smooth. You have a beautifully flat, smooth surface upon which to move your quilt.

The LED lighting system

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More features and benefits of the

PFAFF powerquilter 1600 – Get threaded!

I’m looking at the remaining physical features, then I can start quilting. I know – you want me to start quilting now, but here’s the thing. If I sit down and immediately begin to play, which I’ve done many times, I miss plenty of little tips and tricks and often run into difficulty. How often have I seen people struggle with threading a machine when it’s pretty simple if you follow the diagrams provided? So, I’ll take a few minutes to sit and review so I won’t have those issues.

So, the first thing I do with a new machine is to sit down and read (or at least browse) the User’s Guide.

When you need to change the bobbin, the bobbin case is easy to access in the front area beneath the needle. If you’re unfamiliar with this type of bobbin case, it’s super easy to learn, and of course, you’ll find the information for inserting the bobbin into the case and then into the machine in the User’s Guide!

The logo of the quilting machine

Let’s talk about the bobbins. The bobbins are M-class bobbins, and they are huge.

The bobbin case

The tension is adjustable using the tension spring on the side of the bobbin case. Playing with the bobbin tension on a domestic machine is frowned upon, but it’s essential when working with this kind of bobbin case.

It’s not something you’ll do every day, but let’s face it – you will want to quilt on this machine and before you know it, you’ll be using all different thread weights in the bobbin, and you need to know how to adjust the tension.

The User’s Guide

I’m somewhat familiar with this type of quilting machine, but I want to check certain things, particularly threading, which is critical to success.

There are four different modes of operation on the PFAFF powerquilter 1600, so it’s essential that I understand how those work when I start quilting.

The User’s Guide is not thick, so it doesn’t take much time to get through it, including the machine setup instructions.

OK, enough about that. What other features can we find on the power quilter 1600?

I love the name, as it makes me feel powerful and that I can quilt through anything! Power - who doesn’t love power?

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M-class bobbins

Do you know what big bobbins mean?

I won’t run out of bobbin thread very often, which makes me very happy!

It’s not that changing the bobbin is a big deal, but it’s handy not to have to change them every half hour.

There is a low bobbin indicator, which I’ll show you later.

It’s super easy and requires only a screwdriver. But here’s a tip. Do not overturn the tension. When adjusting the tension, turn the screw no more than ¼ of a turn at a time. To test the tension, I like to do the drop test. Insert the wound bobbin into the case and pull the thread through the tension spring.

Hold the bobbin in one hand and grab the end of the thread in the other. Is the tension so tight that the thread doesn’t pull out from the bobbin case when I give it a jiggle? Or when I grab the thread, does the bobbin case immediately fall, or does the thread pull out ever so slightly? The correct answer

is that the bobbin case should fall a tiny bit when suspended by the thread. It’s essential to do this test, or you could end up with a mess on the back of your quilt.

Here’s a video to see what I mean. It’s a bit hard to tell how much movement there is, but the thread has some movement as it comes out of the bobbin case.

Now when it comes to winding bobbins, a separate bobbin winder comes with the PFAFF powerquilter 1600. It’s easy to use; you can set it at various speeds depending on your comfort level and thread type. So, if you’re quilting a large quilt, you may want to wind several bobbins before you start, or you may want a break and wind the bobbins as you go.

Guess what? There’s an instruction manual for the bobbin winder, as you need to install the thread mast. I don’t need a manual for that, says I. Well, yes, I did. Before I read the instructions, the thread mast was wobbling when I wound bobbins. Once I installed it correctly, it was solid! So that’s why instruction manuals are so helpful!

A correctly wound bobbin

The important thing is that the thread needs to go through the tension disks on the bobbin winder. You want the thread to be compact. If the thread is loose and unruly, the bobbin is not a well-wound, and you’ll have an issue with the tension when quilting.

There are two presser feet, one is a complete ring, and the other has an opening to provide better visibility into tight areas. These are not feet for ruler work, but you can get optional feet which I’ll talk about later too.

I had no issues with visibility using the presser foot with the complete ring, but I’d choose the other one for more detailed work.

It’s easy to change the feet. Use the included Allen Key to undo the screw. Once the screw is loose, lift the presser bar slightly to release the foot. Then put the new presser foot on and tighten the screw.

There are a couple of other features, but I’ll mention those once we get the machine threaded and start looking at the various modes of operation.

Two metal presser feet

Well, with all those fantastic features, I can’t wait to get started quilting on the PFAFF powerquilter 1600. I’ve got a few small projects lined up, and well – let’s get started!

The stand-alone bobbin winder

Using an Allen Wrench to change the presser foot

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Free motion quilting on the

PFAFF powerquilter 1600 [Manual Mode]

I've got some bobbins wound, the machine is threaded, and we're ready to go!

The built-in four-spool thread stand

As I mentioned, there are four stitching modes on the PFAFF powerquilter 1600 Long Arm Quilting Machine, although it's probably more correct to say there are two stitching modes (Manual and Regulated), but within each mode, you have some choices, so there are a total of five options.

In Manual mode, the speed of the machine and how fast you move the quilt determines the stitch length. In Regulation mode, you set the number of stitches per inch, and the motor will speed up or slow down depending on how quickly you move the quilt.

The controls are on a small screen in front of you as you sit at the powerquilter 1600. The green M on the screen shows that the powerquilter 1600 is in Manual mode. Below the mode selection function, the number (2,100) represents the current number of stitches per minute if you push the foot pedal to the floor.

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The control screen

Setting the two preset options for speed control

Changing the number of stitches per inch using the PLUS and MINUS buttons on either side is easy. I've decreased the speed to 850 stitches per minute which works much better for me. As I'm stitching, the machine will not go beyond that setting.

There's a tension mechanism on the right-hand side, and the powerquilter 1600 must be threaded correctly. It's not a bad idea to floss the thread into the tension disks and ensure it's correctly seated in the spring.

Being able to control the maximum speed is very handy as I can quickly get up to speed by completely depressing the foot pedal, but if I need to slow down for a detailed area, I can ease back like the gas pedal on a car.

Notice the two numbers in the bottom left-hand corner beside the file folders. I can have two preset speeds, so if I prefer to use a slower speed for ruler work, I can quickly select the preset speed, and if I want to up the speed when doing free-motion, I set the other preset to the desired speed. I love this feature, so I don't have to scroll up and down using the main speed control.

Using this tension mechanism can be tricky because, traditionally, there are no numbers to help adjust the tension. I've used this tension system for several years and learned to ‘feel’ if the tension is correct. But if you're new to this type of tension, the screen has a great feature. In the bottom right above, you'll see 160, a numeric value for the current tension setting.

In the next photo, I've loosened the tension to the value of 85. The numeric value setting for the tension is beneficial if you are changing threads, working on multiple projects at once, or are unfamiliar with the ‘feel’ of the correct tension. It's a good idea to take note of the settings because it can significantly help you get back to work without much testing.

Another great feature is the needle stop, which you see on the right-hand side. It's so important to use that feature when quilting. When you need to take your hands off the quilt to reposition it or to take a break, the needle down will prevent the quilt from moving and messing up your stitches.

The first step is to bring up the bobbin thread, which is a must for quilting.

Bringing up the bobbin thread

I've brought up the bobbin thread, and now I'll move the needle back to the place where the bobbin thread came up. I hold onto those threads as I take the first couple of anchoring stitches.

Remember, in Manual mode, I control the stitch length, so taking a couple of stitches in place is enough to anchor the end of that line of stitching. I can also use the Needle Stop function to create a Tie-off stitch.

The numeric value for the tension is less

Now I can also baste with the powerquilter 1600 in Manual mode.

When I select the B (baste) function below, notice what happens to the number of stitches indicator. It changed to 1.5s, meaning every 1.5 seconds, the powerquilter 1600 will take a stitch. The range is 0.5 seconds to 2.0 seconds. So, if I want long basting stitches, I move the quilt further between stitches, and if I wish shorter basting stitches, I move the quilt less.

The Needle Stop function

There are more options on the screen, but we'll talk about those another day.

And it's a good idea to sit down with the User's Guide and some scrap quilt sandwich to test out all those functions.

It won't take long, but it's helpful to understand how they work!

OK --- time to quilt! See how much room I have and how easy it is to see my work.

I found a table runner I had partially quilted several years ago and decided it's a good one to try out the Manual mode for free motion. The manual mode freaks people out, but it's not that hard if you do some practicing, but luckily you can also use regulation mode!

Getting ready to quilt

I like to use something to help move the fabric as my hands are slippery on the quilt, and I can use the Quilting Guide with a rubberized surface on the bottom.

The Manual basting mode

Ample room to see for quilting

Quilt guide to help control the quilting

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Or I can wear a pair of quilting gloves.

Whatever you choose, you'll have much greater control than using your bare hands.

Quilt gloves provide control for quilting

Just because you have all that space doesn't mean you want to lay out your project to fill the work surface. The smaller you can keep the footprint of your project, the easier it is to move, thus giving you better control. You can see that I've rolled the table runner to reduce the size of the project, providing better control, and less drag, which means less effort to quilt.

Here's another tip for free motion quilting. We tend to start at the top and work to the bottom – that's how we read and write, so it becomes the default in other areas. By the way – if you're interested in seeing how I created this quilted snowman table runner, refer to this blog post from a few years ago.

Here's the finished block with the free motion stitching done in Manual mode.

It looks fantastic, and there’s so much room to work! The thing people don't like about Manual mode is that there’s no stitch length control. If you choose the color of your thread wisely and practice, this is not an issue!

OK – so if I start quilting at the top and work down, I can’t readily see where my quilting lines are as they’ll be behind the needle. Oh yes – I have so much space, but seeing behind the needle is still challenging. It's much easier to start at the bottom and work up, so all the stitching is in front of the needle, and it's a snap to see what you have already quilted.

The free motion quilting in Manual mode

And here's the back of the work. It looks fabulous. I have to say that I'm pretty happy with it, considering I don't do a lot of free motion quilting these days. It was super easy to quilt on the powerquilter 1600 and get back in the groove.

Stitching toward the back of the work, keeping the stitches in open view

Reducing the footprint of the project

And here's why we make the quilt backings larger than the top. The backing provides something to hang onto as I quilt the edge, helps control the quilting and makes it much more consistent. I’d be struggling if that backing wasn't there.

Usually, when stitching around an applique, I start somewhere along the side, where I can end my stitching at the same spot where I started. I must be out of practice because I began stitching in a corner, not in a place where I could join the end to the beginning! Oops. But when you start or stop, you can decide if you want the end stitch to meet up with the first stitch or to start your lines along a seam line or right next to your applique. Lots of options; just be mindful of the endpoint before you start.

My last stitch was along the side of the border.

The quilt backing is important to quilt to the edge.

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The back of the table runner

There's so much more to say, but I will add that I was quilting, and I noticed something very peculiar. When I quilt on a domestic sewing machine, I spread my arms out like I'm about to take flight, which causes all kinds of issues with my neck and shoulders. While quilting this table runner, I noticed that my arms naturally fell at my sides, which is the proper position. WOW --- quilting painfree and no visit to the chiropractor?

Count me in!

Stitch regulation on the PFAFF powerquilter 1600 I'm looking at one of the reasons people will want this sit-down quilting machine.

As mentioned, it has regulation mode or, as you might call it – a stitch regulator.

So, what does that mean? It means that you set a specific stitch length, like ten stitches to the inch or eight stitches to the inch, and as you move your fabric under the needle, the motor speeds up or slows down to produce the number of stitches per inch you set.

You'll run into a challenge as you near the edge of your quilt, and the quilt is no longer covering the sensors. If you have extra backing on your quilt, which you should have, this won't be a problem. But let's say you skimped on the backing fabric.

Threading the needle

It takes some getting used to, and I've included a couple of videos to help you understand what I mean about the motor.

This first video is in manual mode, where the speed of the machine (how many stitches per minute) and how fast I move my fabric dictates the stitch length.

You can hear the motor running at a constant speed. And even towards the end, the sound is consistent even when I back off the foot pedal.

In the second video, I'm in regulation mode, and you can hear the motor slow down and speed up depending on how fast I move the fabric.

The sensors are exposed and will not provide a consistent stitch.

Now what? Place a scrap of fabric on the edge of the project, so the sensors are still covered. The scrap lying on the quilt sandwich will move at the same rate as the quilt, and the sensors are none the wiser! A simple fix! Be sure not to catch your scrap in the quilting. Even better – add extra backing!

So how does the stitch regulator work?

Two sensors in the insert sense the movement of the quilt.

Add a scrap to the front to cover the sensors.

The two sensors for the stitch regulator

As you move the quilt, the sensors send a signal to the motor, which will speed up or down to stitch the requested number of stitches.

Here are a couple of tips. The first is for threading the needle. The glare of those work lights is harsh on the table's white surface. Slip your quilt under the needle to cover the glare, and if you use a contrasting color of fabric from your thread, it's super easy to see.

The second tip is about the quilting feet.

I mentioned earlier that two quilting feet come with the PFAFF powerquilter 1600.

This one is my favorite. When I use this foot, I get a clear view of my quilting and can easily tuck my threads behind the foot.

Tuck the threads behind the open-toe quilting foot.

One last thing before we have a look at the control panel. What about the tension? Well, it's bang on, and it's so easy to adjust if you have to. Look at the back of my sample stitch-out, where I used a dark blue thread on top and a light thread in the bobbin. Only a bit of the top thread showed at the beginning of my stitching line. I had not checked the speed, and the stitches were tiny. So, play with the tension and see how easy it is to adjust! Yep, you can use two very high-contrast threads and solid backs and still get good results!

The back of the sample stitch-out with highcontrast threads

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Let's have a look at the controls for Regulation Mode. Select the R (highlighted in green) to move into regulation mode.

In Regulation Mode, you set the number of stitches per inch; in the previous photo, the number is 22. That's a lot of stitches per inch, so you may not want to run it that tight. The range of stitches per inch is between 4 and 22; use the plus and minus keys to change the number.

So, let's take it out of basting mode and back to the regulation mode for quilting.

The number of stitches per inch is now 12, which is nice. Below the number of stitches per inch setting are the two regulation modes, Precision and Cruise.

The dashed green circle is Precision.

I can also baste in regulation mode. If I take the number of stitches below 4, the numbers change to inches.

The control screen set for Regulation Mode (Cruise)

Notice that the right-hand side of the control panel remains the same. The bobbin sensor is at the top, which I haven't told you about yet. Then the Needle Stop (Up/Down), and the tension controls.

Another button on the right-hand is the Pause/Play indicator (or the START button). If you don't want to use the foot pedal, use the Pause/Play to start quilting. You can use that same function to stop or tap the foot pedal, and the motor will stop.

I'm not too fond of the Pause/Play in manual mode because I can't control the speed for detailed areas. So, I choose when to use the foot pedal and when to use the Pause/Play button.

Regulation Precision mode

Basting in regulation mode

Notice the 4 has now become 4.0", which differentiates it from the number of stitches per inch. The length of the basting stitch ranges from 0.5" to 4.0".

This means that every 4" I move my quilt, I'll get one basting stitch. Move the project another 4", and I get another. If I reduce the length, then whatever the setting is, I'll get a new basting stitch once the quilt has moved that distance.

A basting stitch of 0.5"

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The Precision mode is my favorite for detailed work around applique or in tight corners.

The second option is Cruise (the two arrows in a circle), which took me time to appreciate. When you hit the Pause/Play or use the foot pedal, the powerquilter 1600 starts stitching immediately, so you must be ready!

There are multiple ways to operate the powerquilter 1600, and you'll find the one that works for you. You may also find that you use some of the controls in one mode and not in the other, which is what I found works perfectly for me.

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What does this mean? Using either the foot pedal or the start function, the powerquilter 1600 will not start to stitch until I move the fabric. I can take a breath without stopping the machine if I need to, ensuring my needle is in the down position. However, you must be careful because if you jostle the quilt for any reason, the powerquilter 1600 will think you’re trying to quilt, and it'll start stitching.

You'll notice an extra setting at the bottom right-hand side when we're in Cruise. This setting allows you to set the minimum speed the powerquilter 1600 will stitch in this mode.

Like all unfamiliar tools, you need to take this for a test drive to see how easy it is to operate. Be sure to pop into your PFFAF dealer to arrange a test drive.

You won't be sorry.

Regulation Cruise

And as easy as that – that's what Regulation mode is all about on the PFAFF powerquilter 1600. If you’re into serious quilting, and even if you're not, many options on the powerquilter 1600 make quilting much more fun than on your domestic machine.

As I mentioned, you'll find you favor one mode (manual or regulation) over another, depending on your type of quilting. Then within the regulation mode, you will prefer Cruise versus Precision, or vice versa, depending on the project.

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4

types of optional feet to quilt anything PFAFF powerquilter 1600

Four different feet or sets of optional feet are available for the powerquilter 1600. I'll start with the Ruler Foot, used for straightline or stitch-in-the-ditch quilting.

The best place to use this foot is quilting applique or a quilt with many embellishments or dimensional areas.

The curved edges will skim over your quilt without catching on any errant stitches or damaging the trims.

Following a seam line with the ¾" Echo Foot

The Ruler Foot

You'll notice that it's round like the hopping foot that comes with the powerquilter 1600. However, it's substantially higher to accommodate the thickness of the ruler and provide more stability for the ruler. Using a ruler with the hopping foot can cause problems with needle or ruler damage.

While you can stitch in the ditch without the ruler, the lines will be wobbly – ask me how I know! The ruler is the way to go, but be sure you use a ¼" thick ruler, typically sold as long-arm rulers.

The Glide Foot

The last set of feet is the Square Feet Set. These feet are for piecing. Yes – you can piece on the powerquilter 1600. Since everything is free motion, I wouldn't be piecing an intricate quilt, but if you wanted to attach your binding on the powerquilter 1600, either of these two feet would be a great option. They come in a width of ½" or ¼".

The Echo Feet Set is a set of three feet in different sizes – 3/8", ½", and ¾", representing the distance from the needle to the outer edge of the foot.

The Square Feet Set

The three feet in the Echo Feet Set

Using a ruler and the Ruler Foot for stitch-in-theditch quilting

The next foot is the Glide Foot, which looks like a shallow bowl. It's large but clear, so you can easily see your work through it. The opening for the needle is also significant to help see the detail if necessary.

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The rings extend the diameter of the original hopping foot and are helpful to echo around applique shapes in various widths. The feet are perfectly round, meaning they will work as a ruler foot giving you great options when echoing around shapes, along seam lines, or creating motifs with straight lines.

So it won't matter which style of freemotion quilting or piecing you want to do; there's a foot for each category!

I love having all those options to quilt ANYTHING on PFAFF powerquilter 1600.

Before we close, I wanted to share the options in the Tools Menu on the screen.

The options within the Tools Menu (highlighted in green)

I don't have time to go into all the functions, but here are a couple that I think you'll find interesting. I alluded earlier that there is a low bobbin sensor on the powerquilter 1600, which you'll find in the top left-hand corner of the screen.

The sensor uses the amount of thread the bobbin can hold as its guide, which differs depending on the thread weight.

To determine the yardage, load a full bobbin into the powerquilter 1600, hit the record button (red), and stitch until the bobbin runs out. Stop recording and back up the number by a bit to give you the estimate. You decrease the number to get the notification before the bobbin runs out. Save the number in one of the presets in the lower section of the screen.

Set the alarm to alert you that the bobbin is running low based on your preset estimate. Be sure to note which of the three presets applies to your current thread in the bobbin. Multiple variables are involved in this process, so it takes some trial and error to get it right. I didn't bother as I could see the moment when the bobbin ran out.

The Low Bobbin record screen

The alarm menu

The timer and stitch count allows you to track your time for each quilt. Press the reset button each time you start a new project, which is excellent if you’re quilting for a customer. You'll know how many hours or stitches you've spent on their quilt.

There's also a handy calculator if you need some quick calculations.

The calculator on the control panel

The Timer and Stitch Count screen

You can activate two alarms. One indicates if you're going too fast in regulation mode, throwing the consistent stitch length out of whack. It's a super easy way to ‘learn’ how to use the stitch regulation mode.

While I love the lighting on the powerquilter 1600, there are times when it may be too intense for specific fabric colors. On this screen, you can turn off each of the two lights or use the slider to dim them.

You can also set a timer. If you want to take a break every 45 minutes, set the timer and activate the alarm, and you'll get notified when you need to take a break.

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The other numbers indicate the versions of the various components of the powerquilter 1600, which is helpful if you need servicing or to identify if you need an upgrade.

The lighting menu

There's also a diagnostics screen.

When you open the diagnostic screen, there are several tests you can run if you are experiencing issues with the powerquilter 1600. Here's the screen for running the Motor Sensor Test. Having these basic diagnostics is good because if we can fix the problem at home without taking it to the service center, that's awesome.

A diagnostics test screen

You'll also find a System Information Screen, which provides helpful information. You'll see the lifetime stitches on the machine and whether the powerqulter 1600 can ‘see’ the two sensors and the foot pedal. In this case, there is no red X on either, so they’re correctly installed.

The System Information Screen

That's a lot of helpful information, and it's all convenient on the function panel in the Tools Menu at the top right of the screen.

The PFAFF powerquilter 1600 is an excellent sit-down quilting machine with many advantages over quilting on a domestic sewing machine. To fully appreciate what you can do, pop into your local PFAFF dealer for a test drive.

Be sure to take a quilt sandwich or two so you can play around, and don't be afraid to take a larger quilt to see how easily it fits on the large work table.

Well, what do you think? I think it's time to get busy and get quilting! Have a super day, and HAPPY QUILTING! Ciao!!!

Elaine Theriault

crazyquilteronabike.blogspot.com

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