QUILTsocial | Issue 4

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ps on binding ti t n a rt o p im st o • 3 m review • TrueCut System ues to improve iq n h c te g in ilt u q • 2 racy speed and accu d word & quilting re e id ro b m e e th •

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stellar features on a NEW entry level sewing machine

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…eat, sleep, quilt, repeat 6

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Do you use these 9 basic sewing habits?

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cr eativ

100% cotton thread A fine, strong, high quality sewing thread for hand or machine sewing, no matter the stitch type or fabric.

Gütermann 50 wt. Cotton Quilting thread is made of long staple 100% Egyptian mercerized cotton; it’s versatile and gives seams a natural character.

• Suitable for hand or machine sewing; the perfect thread for your quilting projects • Larger cone sizes are excellent for long arm quilting machines • Available in 100m, 250m, 400m, 800m, 3000m and 5000m spool lengths • 186 stunning solid and variegated shades • Ideal for ornamental stitches, decorative seams and embroidery • Soft and supple with tear and abrasion resistance • Colorfast: fade resistant to UV rays and multiple washings

Look for Gütermann threads at your favourite fabric, sewing and quilting store!

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editor's letter Are you a collector?

I bet you are! If you are a quilter or a sewer, then there’s no doubt whatsoever.

Collectors always have a thousand and one stories, and a great sense of wonder for the things they collect. Their eyes bright with delight as they dive in their precious items to engage you in their stories and perhaps, with a little madness, hope you’ll get the bug as well.

As quilters and sewers we’re fortunate to have several collections going on at once, spools of thread and gorgeous fabric that then turns into scraps of which we can’t let go. And let’s not talk about the collection of UFOs! I like to keep fabric in a bookcase so I can see my favorite prints and colors whenever I walk in the room, right beside the other collection… quilting books. Another collection, right beside the books, is that of yarns, as I’m also a knitter.

When guests walk into the room and see my leftover yarns in a huge fancy glass container, the questions start to flow.

These collections become our universe.

And then, there’s the topic of sewing machines, and the possibility of having more than one. I still have my mother’s 1959 Viking Husqvarna Automatic CI-21A sewing machine. A collectable machine coveted by those who own one.

It’s actually hidden away, like someone’s going to run away with it! For those of you who might

not know, it’s a very heavy machine. It’s my pride and joy not because I’m comparing it to the Husqvarna Viking sewing machines available today, but because it holds fond memories of my childhood spent at the kitchen table with mom sewing, including the many times I used the machine as a teenager to alter clothing!

Speaking of sewing machines, the Pfaff Creative 1.5 makes me think of a little red Fiat 500, I’m not sure why, it just does! Vroom, vroom…

If you’ve been following QUILTsocial blog particularly this summer you’ll remember that Elaine Theriault posted 50 ways to keep a quilter happy while on vacation and dropped in on the local quilt shops along her travels. It’s interesting to see the variety of quilting fabric she photographed within the shops. Fabric in a shop is often a reflection of the town it’s in.

When Elaine visited the local shop in Prince Edward Island there were fabrics that reflected the sea and the sunsets there. What a perfect souvenir to get while on vacation! It will always be a sweet reminder of the trip.

I hope you enjoy collecting the quilting/sewing topics in every one of our QUILTsocial issues.

Enjoy the issue, and then go quilt something.

Cheerfully,

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…for those who gather with thread and fabric to ‘eat, sleep, quilt, repeat’.

PUBLISHER, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ART DIRECTOR Carla A. Canonico carla@QUILTsocial.com PUBLISHER, ADVERTISING SALES John De Fusco john@QUILTsocial.com PHOTOGRAPHERS John De Fusco, Carla A. Canonico, Alessia De Fusco BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS Christine Baker www.FairfieldRoadDesigns.com Gail Berry-Graham http://thequiltstudio.ca Jean Boyd www.patternsbyjeanboyd.com Nancy Devine nancywhiskeynancyo.blogspot.com Jennifer Houlden http://quiltsbyjen.ca Elaine Theriault crazyquilteronabike.blogspot.com Kathy K. Wylie www.kathykwylie.com GRAPHIC & WEB DESIGN Carla A. Canonico carla@QUILTsocial.com WEBSITE / BLOG : www.QUILTsocial.com Like us on Facebook : QUILTsocial Follow us on Twitter : @QUILTsocial WHERE TO GET YOUR COPY QUILTsocial is a quarterly eMagazine published by A Needle Pulling Thread. It is available free for personal use online at www.QUILTsocial.com.

A limited number of printed copies of QUILTsocial are available for purchase at select quilt shops and specialty stores. Ask for it at your local shop. QUILTsocial is not available by subscription.

QUILT SHOPS If you are interested in carrying QUILTsocial in your store, please email john@QUILTsocial.com.

EDITORIAL Designers and other contributors who would like to be considered for future issues please email carla@QUILTsocial.com with a brief description of your work and your proposed project for the magazine. ©2015 QUILTsocial. All rights reserved. Issue #4. ISSN 2368-5913.

No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are for private, non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted material owned by their respective creators or owners.

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Advertiser Index 25 A Needle Pulling Thread Magazine 55 Banners of Hope 60 Business Directory 59 Coats 21 Country Concessions 35 CreativFestival 2 Gütermann Creativ 61 Husqvarna Viking 4 QUILTsocial 21 Ruby Pearl Quilts 29 The Needlework Pages 21 The Quilt Store 62 UNIQUE Sewing and Quilting

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c o n t e n t s Cheryl Stranges

6 A day at the beach banner

Donna Housley

10 The picnic bag & tablecloth

Nancy Devine Gail Berry-Graham

Jean Boyd Jennifer Houlden Elaine Theriault

Coats

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14 Sewing table dishes flexible creative space Pretty pin cushion 18 A quick summer quilt project Sewing borders provides a finishing touch 5 stellar features on a new entry level sewing machine 3 Pfaff Creative 1.5 features you can’t live without 26 The super accurate way to make flying geese quilt blocks The friendship star block 28 9 reasons you should use the TrueCut System The 3 most important tips for binding

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36 Do you use these 9 sewing habits?

2 quilting techniques to improve speed & accuracy The embroidered word and quilting Embroidered memories 56 A stitch in time saves nine

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PFAFF ® provided the following sewing machine and products to make the sample:

a day at the beach

PFAFF Creative 4.5™Sewing/ Embroidery Machine All embroidery designs 6D Embroidery Software INSPIRA ® Stabilizers INSPIRA ® Machine Needles INSPIRA ® Scissors Robison Anton Threads Sulky Threads Hoops

skill level intermediate

for feet on beach and shells

finished measurements 27¾" x 29¾" [70.5 x 75.5cm]

needles INSPIRA® Microtex needle size 80 or 90 INSPIRA® Embroidery needles INSPIRA® Quilting needles

materials fabric 12" L x 15" W [30.5 x 38cm] beach background fabric 13" L x 10" W [33 x 25.5cm] umbrella background fabric additional small amounts of cotton fabric needed for umbrella and pole, flip flops, beach, water, cocktail glasses – scraps of fabric will work well for these.

12" L x 15" W [30.5 x 38cm] cotton for white background for A Day at the Beach 13" L x 10" W [33 x 25.5cm] cotton for flip flop background jelly roll strips assorted 2½" wide assorted to frame each block 30" x 33" [76 x 84cm] cotton quilt batting or Inspira® Sew Soft fusible batting 1 cotton backing piece to extend beyond finished banner edges approximately 2" on each edge sewing feet used embroidery foot ¼" piecing foot free motion foot appliqué foot general sewing foot topstitching or stitch in the ditch foot with guide 3 hole yarn foot software 6D Embroidery Fonts: Casual Size 30 and Size 40 for lettering Pfaff ®Sparkle Embroideries # 458 for umbrella Husqvarna Viking® Bathroom View #276

threads assorted colors of Robison Anton 40 wt Rayon thread for topstitching, free motion, and decorative stitches assorted colors of Sulky 30wt Blendable threads for topstitching and piecing other cutting tools to include rotary cutter, wavy blade, cutting mat, Inspira appliqué scissors Sew Slip Sheet appliqué pressing sheet Grab A Roo’s quilting gloves fabric glue INSPIRA® Fusible Web for flip flops, water, sand, drink glasses, and umbrella INSPIRA® Fast & Easy tear away fusible web strips for jelly roll strip placement assorted embroidery hoops for A Day at the Beach, and footprints, and shells marking tools embellishments silk thrums feathers for reeds yarn pieces for water assorted beads for flip flops

instructions

Casual Embroidery

1. Audition the layout of the lettering and shells before embroidery. Choose the thread combinations you would like to work with.

Note: You may want to use the embroidery font from 6D Embroidery Software or choose an embroidery font built into your sewing machine. The Casual Font is what was selected for the wording. The font had a very casual appeal to it and was perfect for a beach look.

2. Machine embroider the lettering and shells, and press and set aside.

Note: The duo color strip of white and blue forming the outer edges of this embroidery was done with 2" x 2" pieces stitched together. They were later cleaned up along the edges using a wavy edge cutting blade and placement of the strips were done near completion of the project.

A Day at the Beach Hoop the INSPIRA®Fast & Easy tear away behind the 12" x 15" piece of white cotton.

Note: You may choose to hoop the stabilizer only and use an embroidery basting feature to baste fabric to the stabilizer for all of your embroideries.

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5. When the embroidery is complete, tear away Flip Flops the stabilizer, and place Inspira fusible web An easy way to do flip flops is to take a photo on the wrong side of the sand. Fuse the sand of a pair you have. Just to get the shape piece into position on top of the water piece. of them and alter as desired. The flip flop 6. The water has been stitched using a free appliqué fabric is 3 pieces: 1piece for motion serpentine stitch here and there. And the lower bottom, 1 piece for the upper using a 3 hole yarn cording foot, yarn was bottom, and 1 piece for the strap. stitched on the upper section of the water.

1. Fuse INSPIRA® Fusible Web to the wrong 7.

Additional white yarn pieces were placed to side of each piece of fabric and draw out resemble waves. The strip of fabric with the the flip flop according to your photofish was placed on top of the background graph. See fusible web instructions. water piece and stitched into place.

Remember that with appliqué one of the flip flops will be a mirror image of the other one. Unless of course you want two left feet.

2. Cut all of the pieces out and press all flip flop pieces to the background piece using an appliqué pressing sheet. These pieces can be edge stitched in stages according to the order you decide to place them in.

3. Decorative stitches are what provide a very nice finish to your appliqués. And there are so many to choose from. Use an appliqué foot for best results with satin stitch.

4. Choose an appliqué stitch or satin stitch that covers edge of appliqué as well as part of the fabric it’s being stitched to.

5. Use a straight stitch to do raw edge appliqué around any pieces.

TIP It’s always important to use stabilizer behind all of your decorative stitches.

flipflops for pattern

Exploring fabrics

Rough sketch

Decorative embroidery neatly finishes appliqué edges

Beach Scene 1. Choose a photograph of footprints on a beach for inspiration. Just to get an idea of the direction and placement of your footprints.

2. Load the embroidery on your embroidery machine screen. The footprints can be embroidered on a rectangular piece of sandy looking fabric first, and the beach can be cut last. It’s much easier to work the fabric in this order.

3. Prepare the embroidery hoop with 1 layer of Inspira® Fast & Easy tear away.

4. Place the sand piece on top of this. Baste this into position using the baste-in-hoop function and embroider the footprints onto the sand.

single footprint

embroidery

Note: Because the background fabric looks like water, the sandy beach is simply placed on the left side or wherever you like. If you’re not sure how to draw a beach, there are many inspirational photos to guide you. sands edge

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H a v e f u n w i t h t h i s, m a k e i t l i k e a d a y a t t h e b e a c h !

Umbrella Section This appliqué section was completed after each artistic block has been pieced together.

Piecing your blocks Using Sulky blendable thread 30wt, stitch each of the blocks together using the piecing foot. Press all seams.

Piecing the blocks

Try different embellishments

Embroidered waves on umbrella

Batting 1. Cut the batting piece a bit larger than the banner, and place it behind the banner top.

2. Baste it into position and prepare any decorative stitches desired including an assortment of free motion stitching.

3. The placement of the white and blue border around A Day at the Beach block should be completed at this time simply by laying it on top of the block edges and top stitching it into place.

4. Place any other borders you choose by topstitching them into position around the blocks. You may also choose to leave the blocks without borders.

Umbrella Appliqué 1. Draw an umbrella for size estimate. Basically, it can be a half-moon or this is a great time to apply your creativity by adding your own style to the half-moon.

2. Choose an appliqué fabric for the umbrella, determine placement and select embroidery.

3. Once the embroidery is complete, use your sketch to determine how large to cut it. Fuse INSPIRA®Fusible web to the wrong side of the fabric.

4. Draw the umbrella onto the paper side, following the manufactures directions.

Cut out the umbrella.

5. Repeat for the umbrella pole. Fuse the pole down first, and then place the upper umbrella into position. Fuse. Stitch around outer edges using a stitch of your choice.

Backing 1. Place the backing fabric behind the banner, and press and fold the edges into position, you may choose to have assorted widths of borders. Experiment to see what works best for you.

2. Place feathers and yarns into borders before stitching the borders into position.

Pin, stitch and press the edges into position.

Free motion any additional areas you desire. 

Wavy cutting blade adds to the fun

Edges folded to front

feathers and silk thrums

Cheryl Stranges

Product & Event Specialist husqvarnaviking.com seecherylsew.blogspot.com

Instruction photos by Cheryl Stranges.

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What better way to enjoy a beautiful summer afternoon than to go on a picnic?

Our PICNIC bag will make it easy to carry everything you need. Ready to eat? Simply open the zippers and voilà!

PICNIC BAG

&

You have a table cloth!

Donna Housley www.hakidd.com

TABLE CLOTH 10

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skill level Intermediate finished measurements 16" [40.5cm] diameter 4" deep 22" top of handle to bottom of bag materials fabric 35½" [90cm] cotton for outside 35½" [90cm] cotton for inside 19½" [50cm] cotton for inside pocket cotton scraps of fabric for appliqué other 4 – 22" [56cm] lightweight closed end zippers Sulky Soft’n Sheer Extra 12" x 12" [30.5 x 30.5cm] 1 pkg. extra wide double fold bias binding 8" [20.5cm] – ¼" elastic notions quilter’s ruler 45mm rotary cutter Heat’n Bond Lite or Heat’n Bond EZ Print Lite all purpose thread invisible thread 40 wt rayon thread Microtex needle size 80 hand needle Suggested Notions Clover Fabric Folding Pen Pinking Shears Heirloom Air-erasable marker Heirloom Teflon pressing sheet Heirloom Sew Smooth Heirloom Rinse Away Tape cutting Cut 1 – 35" x 35" for outside Cut 1 – 35" x 35" for inside Cut 1 – 17½" x 24" for pockets Cut 2 – 17½" bias binding making the outside of the picnic bag Zippers and Embellishments Machine set up Sewing Foot: Open Toe Decorative stitch foot Thread: Rayon thread top and bobbin Needle: Microtex size 80 1. Pin the closed zippers right side up running diagonally and parallel 3" apart, as in Figure A. If you’re having trouble pinning use double sided basting tape to hold the zippers in place.

2. With a decorative stitch start sewing from the center of the bag to the outer edge. Satin stitches are not recommended for this project, as they tend to be very bulky and cause puckers.

3. Sew only the side of each zipper closest to the center of the bag. Note: Ensure the needle will not hit your sewing foot and break. Make some adjustments to the stitch width and/or placement if necessary.

4. Open the zippers and place the loose side of the zipper in a curve which becomes the side of the bag, as in Figure B.

on the dotted lines and fuse them to the back of the appliqué fabric. Follow the instructions on the package.

5. Cut out the pieces of the design (cut on the solid lines) and arrange them on the front of the bag inside the zipper circle. Remove the backing paper as you set the pieces in place. When you’re pleased with your arrangement, cover the design with a Teflon pressing sheet and fuse into place.

6. Use a zig zag, blanket or other decorative stitch; sew around all of the pieces of your applique. Match the thread color to the fabric or do all stitching in black.

TIP Use a large metal mixing bowl to trace the outline as a guide to line the zipper up to.

making the inside of the picnic bag

5. Pin or tape in place.

TIP Use the same decorative stitch to sew the zipper tape down. a couple of drops of Sew Smooth on a cotton swab and wipe the needle clean, if the needle gets gummy using rinse away basting tape.

Appliqué Use appliqué to decorate the picnic bag along with decorative stitches and embroideries.

Machine set up Sewing Foot: Open Toe Decorative stitch foot Thread: Rayon thread same color top and bobbin.

Needle: Microtex size 80 1. Cut a 12" circle of Sulky Soft’n Sheer Extra.

2. Trim with pinking shears and fuse to the wrong side of the outside fabric within one of the zipper circles.

This will give the fabric a little more stability and reduce puckers when stitching the appliqué design.

3. For the appliqué watermelon; trace the design onto the paper side of Heat’n Bond Lite or easier still use Heat’n Bond EZ Print sheets and copy the patterns using your inkjet printer.

Notice that the lettering is backwards – don’t change it! The broken line on the watermelon rind shows how far to overlap the red fabric.

4. When doing appliqué you get a nicer finish by overlapping the pieces. Cut apart the different parts of the design

Pockets and Tablecloth Machine set up Sewing Foot: Regular Sewing foot Thread: Rayon and All-purpose sewing thread top and bobbin Needle: Microtex size 80 1. Use all purpose thread and a straight stitch or rayon thread and a decorative stitch to sew the bias binding on both 17½" edges of the pocket.

2. Turn under ½" on the long sides of the pocket and press. To hold in place use double sided basting tape.

3. Refer to Figure C for pocket placement.

4. Use an air erasable marker to draw a line from center top to center bottom and side to side across the center of the pocket.

5. On the right side of bag inside fabric draw lines from corner to corner making a large X. 6. Place the pocket right side up aligning marks on pocket and inside fabric. Pin in place. Change to all purpose thread and sew down the long sides with a straight stitch.

7. Make smaller pockets for the cutlery; measure down from the bias binding 6" to 7" and draw a horizontal line across the pocket (depth will be determined by the size of the cutlery). Use a straight stitch to stitch on this line.

8. Draw 3 vertical lines from the bias binding to the horizontal line about 3" apart. This makes 3 cutlery pockets and 1 larger pocket to hold cups. Use a straight stitch to stitch on these lines backstitching at the top of the pocket.

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9. Mark the center of the 8" piece of elastic, pin it to the side of the large pocket at the center, X on Figure C. Bring each end of the elastic into the middle and pin in place.

10. Use a zig zag stitch to tack the elastic in place through all 3 layers of elastic. This makes 2 elastic loops to hold rolled up napkins. When using the bag as a table cloth the elastic holds the napkins so they don’t blow away. assembling the picnic bag Machine set up Sewing Foot: Regular Sewing foot Thread: All-purpose thread top and bobbin Needle: Microtex size 80

Fill your bag with everything you need and keep it handy for the next sunny day!

1. Pin the outside and inside of the bag right sides together.

2. Make sure that the pockets are lined up with the zipper circles on the outside. With a ½" seam allowance; sew around entire bag leaving about a 6" opening for turning.

3. Clip the corners and trim seam with pinking shears.

TIP For nicer corners run the Fabric Folding Pen along the stitches at each corner before turning.

4. Turn bag right side out. Press and sew opening closed.

5. Top stitch around entire bag if desired.

TIP When sewing over the zipper ends; turn the machine wheel by hand. This will allow you to stop and move the fabric under the foot if the needle is going to hit the little metal stopper on the zipper. finishing touches Shaping Machine set up Sewing Foot: Zipper Foot Thread: Invisible thread top and bobbin Needle: Microtex size 80 1. Flatten the bag on a table and pin through all layers around both zipper circles.

2. Use a zipper foot and a straight stitch to sew around the zipper tape on both circles. This will create a curved bottom for the plate pocket and help the bag keep its shape.

Buttons Machine set up Sewing Foot: Buttonhole Foot Thread: All-purpose thread top and bobbin Needle: Microtex size 80 1. To close the bag, close all the zippers and bring the tabs on the sides of the bag together.

2. Mark for a buttonhole and a button.

3. Sew both in place.

4. To create a handle bring the front and back tabs together over the side tabs and mark for a buttonhole and a button.

5. Sew both in place. 

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A.

PICNIC BAG templates 3"

outside of tablecloth

Black

Enlarge to 200% to get actual size

Red

Green

B.

C.

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Sewing table

dishes up flexible

creative space

47”

16 1/2” 30”

Folds down to 47”W x 16½”D x 30”H for compact storage

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Nancy Devine

To shamelessly paraphrase Virginia Woolf, a woman needs a reliable sewing machine, and a decent table to work upon, if she is to be a successful quilter. The Studio Collection Sewing and Design Table is like having a sewing room on wheels, and thus the sewing table dishes up flexible creative space.

creative Most of us make do when it comes to a sewing table. We sew at the kitchen table, in the dining room or even a sturdy vintage card table. And that’s a shame, really. Having a sewing machine at the proper height does two important things: First, when the ergonomics are right you steer clear of back and shoulder pain — and if we’re honest, we’ll sew until we need pain killers. It’s just the way we are.

Secondly, having your machine on a proper sewing table helps to keep the all important 1⁄4-inch seam straight, because you don’t have lift your hands and arms up to guide the fabric through the machine. Sitting slightly higher makes a huge difference.

The Studio Collection Sewing and Design from table from HA Kidd affords not only a good sewing table, but also an extended table surface to accommodate a cutting mat. There’s also extra space for storage. And, like the cutting table from my post here, and featured in our spring issue,it all folds away when not in use.

It’s a sewing room of one’s own on casters — so it can go anywhere. Just wheel it away when, and if, you’re finished sewing for the day. Folded away, this sewing studio can do double duty as buffet table. Throw on padded table cover and a nice cloth over it and serve up supper. Catered, of course, because we’ve been sewing all day.

I’m looking forward to using it when I have my crafty pals over for an evening of sewing and creating. The extra space will be great when one person is using the machine, another can be cutting, and yet one more can be pressing.

Let’s unbox the table and see what’s what with putting it together. Don’t try to lift this on your own. It’s very heavy. I put the table together in the living room of my home. It’s a relatively open space.

Several family members expressed concern that it might stay there. I pointed out the roll away feature. Protestors silenced, I took the pieces from the box. I actually used some of the packaging to protect the floor and the parts from damage.

Also helpful is using a magnetized tray — found in auto parts shops — to hold the many, many pieces of hardware. A note about the bags of hardware: Each one has a sticker affixed, they’re very helpful in sorting out which bolt, nut or screw you’ll need. Sadly, they fall off easily. Take a moment to really press the stickers onto each bag it will save time.

The Studio Collection Sewing and Design Table ships as a flat pack.

Speaking of time, the instructions indicate this project will take 30 minutes. It took me a total of three hours over two days. But then again, I live in a family with lots of distractions.

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very nice sewing table deserves a pretty pin cushion.

Irresistible! Here’s the witty pin cushion incorporated in a milk glass compote! Use the edges to hold small scissors, threads or ribbons…

Using up fabric scraps is even better. Let’s make one!

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Pin Cushion Compote Template

cut 4 add 1⁄4" seam allowance Pin cushion Compote © QUILTsocial Nancy Devine Pretty and practical pin cushion will help decorate the table top.

For the pin cushion, I used a small vintage milk glass compote I found at a thrift store. These are usually readily available. The “lacy” decoration around the edge is a great place to store scissors. I used the scraps from my stash of precious sewing themed fabrics.

•• Add a 1⁄4" seam allowance to the template provided and cut two quarter circles from different fabric scraps.

•• Sew two together using a 1⁄4" seam allowance. Sew the other two together, and join the half circles together. Press all the seam allowances open.

shopping list fabric scraps snipping scissors thick white glue fiber fill Sew Smooth thread conditioner upholstery thread

•• Zig zag around the resulting circle using a narrow stitch.

Thread a hand sewing needle with some upholstery thread.

Place a dot of Sew Smooth thread conditioner on your forefinger and run the thread between your thumb and forefinger. The conditioner will enable the thread to glide through the fabric without tangling.

•• Sew around the circle with a running stitch about 1⁄4" from the edge.

•• Pull up the gathering threads until there is a 2" diameter opening at the bottom. Stuff firmly with fiber fill. Move the stuffing around, evening out and to plump up the gathered areas as much as possible.

•• When the cushion is firmly stuffed, run another line of gathering stitches near the previous ones and pull up on them until the hole at the bottom is quite small. Tie off the thread three or four times.

•• Place the cushion in the dish. Use a hot iron and a lot of steam to press the cushion into the dish.

•• This will help fiber fill flatten slightly, and further fill in any gathers.

•• Use thick white glue to cover the inside of the dish and place the cushion inside. Weight the cushion down into the dish with a heavy book until the glue dries.

•• Decorate with pretty pins.

•• Add your small snipping scissors.

Use thread conditioner to make gathering the circle easier.

Cute, right?

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a quick Summer Quilting Project Gail Berry-Graham Using pre-cut layer cakes makes for a quicker project

One night my husband came home and asked if he remembered to tell me he had volunteered us to make a quilt for the secretary from our church who was retiring? My answer was “No honey, I’m pretty sure you didn’t tell me that. No problem though, when do you need it done by?” His answer? Are you sitting down?

“Two weeks!” Not necessarily something to panic about IF we weren’t going away for a week and if I wasn’t working the next week. I needed a Quick Summer Quilting Project and I needed it now, there would be no better time to put my new PFAFF Quilt Ambition 2.0 sewing machine to the test.

We were going to piece a quilt in the next two days, while on vacation, so it not only needed to be quick I needed to be able to easily pack everything I needed to take with me. We were driving to this vacation destination so that made it a bit easier.

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I started with a layer cake. I love pre-cuts when I’m in a pinch.

Not only is everything coordinated, but much of the cutting is already done for you. Now I could have just taken those wonderful coordinated 10” squares and sewed them together but I wanted to do a bit more than that. After all, this was a gift. I used a layer cake that had a nautical theme, the receiver is from the East Coast and is hoping to return there after retirement. To that I will add a small inner boarder and a larger outer boarder.

A few cuts and we are ready to go!

Today I want to get the main body of the quilt top all cut and pieced together. This needs to go fast. Did I mention I'm on vacation?...

The first of two cuts for a simple yet effective block

I took the 10” squares and cut a 6" strip.

The 4" x 10" strip gets cut into two pieces, 4" x 5"

From the remaining 4" x 10" strip I cut that in half and ended up with 2" x 5" pieces.

It was time to start sewing!

Time for the design wall and block placement I then started to place these on my design wall (a fancy word for that flannel table cloth taped to the wall).

Beside each 6" strip I placed two of the 4" blocks. This really is going to be a rather scrappy yet coordinated quilt so I didn’t spend a lot of time doing this. I did try to have one dark, one light and one medium piece of fabric in each block.

I made 5 of these blocks across.

In row two I switched the blocks around starting with the two 4" pieces and then the 6" piece. There are a total of 6 rows of 5 blocks for a total of 30 blocks — Yes I had some left overs from my layer cake I could have made the quilt bigger but I wanted a ‘sofa’ quilt, one for her to cuddle up on the sofa and sip tea and watch a movie so by the time I added a couple of borders this was going to be big enough.

Shortening my Stitch Length to 2.0

That done, I get my ¼” foot out that came with my machine and get to sewing. I'm a chain 'piecer' so I went to my design wall and took down all my pairs of 4" x 5" squares and sewed them all together using a ¼" seam. To end up with a 4" x 9½" pair.

I then took each pair and sewed them to the long side of my 6” x 10” piece of fabric. And no — they didn’t fit exactly, my 4” x 5” pieces which were sewn into pairs now measured 4" x 9½". I still sewed them to the 10” piece of fabric as I was going to square them up after the next pressing.

Once all of my blocks were together I set out to square them all up to a nice 9½" square.

Time to square up! 9 1/2 X 9 1/2

I sewed those squares together to make rows, pressing each seam open.

I love my 1/4" foot--included with my PFAFF Quilt Ambition 2.0!

Once they were all sewn together in pairs I went to the ironing board. First I set the seam then proceeded to iron that seam open. Yep, you read that right - open!

Then sewed the rows together. The whole quilt top to this point was cut, pieced and pressed and assembled in a day (not a long day just a good steady day, where I managed to cook dinner and read a couple of chapters of a book I just can’t seem to put down).

Next…borders. I'm thinking red, for pop!

My design wall...all laid out and ready to go

First thing I did was wind a nice fresh bobbin on my PFAFF Quilt Ambition 2.0 sewing machine.

Then I shortened my stitch length. The default stitch length setting on this machine is 2.5. I shortened it to 2.0. I like a shorter stitch length when I'm piecing.

The 2.5 stitch length works great for sewing garments with wider seam allowances but I like that shorter stitch length for my ¼” seams. It's so easy to change the stitch length on this machine that there is really no excuse for me not to.

Pressing the seam OPEN

I started pressing almost all of my quilting seams open. It makes for a flatter and I think cleaner press and makes free motion quilting or even stitch in the ditch quilting a piece of cake!

Photos by Gail Berry-Graham.

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Sewing BORDERS provides the finishing touch

In the border vs no border questions I almost always and exclusively vote for borders. At least one! I generally lean to a small inner border to provide a frame and then a larger outer border. Borders aren’t for everyone and you certainly don’t need to add any—a layer cake quilt top is a great size for a sofa or cuddle quilt. But for me? Sewing borders provide the finishing touch, I love them. Also, adding borders to this quilt just gives me another reason to keep using my PFAFF Quilt Ambition 2.0 sewing machine.

A 1 1/2" red border will provide a great pop of color

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Lots of throat space makes adding borders effortless

I'm usually all about color.

If you know me at all you know I’m all about color. It’s everywhere in my house and my quilting, but this quilt isn’t for me, so the colors in the main body of the quilt are a bit dark for me, a navy blue, a beige and a tan. So the inner border was screaming to be a color of interest.

I had some great red in my stash and thought it would provide that ‘pop’ of color needed.

The finished inner border is 1½" so I cut 2" strips by the width of fabric and pieced them together in sets of two.

Sewing them to the quilt top using my ¼" sewing foot to make a ¼” seam. I also shortened my stitch length, which is so easy to do on the PFAFF Quilt Ambition 2.0 sewing machine.

That inner border looks great as far as I’m concerned. The outer border is going to be a bit trickier. Remember this is a gift for someone, the inner part of the quilt is made with fabric with a ‘coastal’ theme, seagulls, lighthouses etc., she is an East Coast girl and is hoping to return there upon retirement. She also loves houses, house hunting, open houses etc. Just houses, and I had the perfect fabric for the outer border but it meant I would have to cut some of the fabric length of fabric as these houses were directional.

I cut three pieces of 6½” width of fabric for the top and bottom borders, making sure I had the ‘houses’ going in the upright position when I sewed the borders on.

Then I carefully measured the length of my quilt and cut two pieces 6½” length of fabric. I know, I hear you, length of fabric cuts seem rather wasteful but this fabric just called out to be cut to show off it’s design, so I did it. I have lots left I’m going to use to make some blocks for another quilt. Because I was adding directional fabric I wanted to sew in a certain direction, I had lots of room with 200mm of throat space. After adding the side borders it got a final pressing and it looks great in my opinion!

Making this quick and easy summer quilt was a cinch using the PFAFF Quilt Ambition 2.0 sewing machine.

The IDT system on the PFAFF machines makes piecing effortless—did I tell you I didn’t use one pin making this quilt?

I don’t find pinning necessary with the IDT system. Changing stitch length is as simple as a touch of a button right in front of me and using the ¼" foot included with my machine made completing this quilt top not only possible but fun.

Really though, sewing borders provide the finishing touch for me. Next will come the quilting and binding.

This quilt will be finished in plenty of time for the retirement party next week. I hope you enjoyed this quick quilting project. Make it your own by choosing the colors you like and finishing it the way you like - with or without borders.

Ruby Pearl Quilts 500 King Street West Oshawa, Ontario L1J 2K9 905 436 3535 www.rubypearlquilts.com

y & Embroider

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Visit village of of Visitour ourlovely lovelyand andunique uniquequilt quilt shop shop in in the quaint village Cookstown.

Cookstown.We Wehave haveover over7000 7000bolts bolts of of the the finest quilting cottons Join cottonsplus plusaawide wideselection selectionof of patterns, patterns, books books & notions. Join Dufferin St St 11 Dufferin Cookstown On Cookstown, Ontario 705 705 458 458 4546 4546

one oneofofour ourexciting excitingclasses classesfor forevery every skill skill level. We are a Pfaff centre.

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5

stellar features on a NEW entry level sewing machine Gail Berry Graham

1. The Original Pfaff IDT System IDT is the Integrated Dual Feed, in short the Pfaff IDT is the equivalent of a built-in walking foot. When I piece my quilt top with the IDT I never, and I mean never, use pins. I don't need to.

2. Large sewing area The large sewing area to the right of the needle is perfect for all my quilting and other sewing needs.

That is 8" of space to be precise, this is a remarkable size of throat space for an entry level machine.

It's here, it's here, it's finally here! 5 stellar features on a NEW entry level sewing machine, the PFAFF Creative 1.5!

Let me tell you how excited I am about this new sewing machine.

If you're in the market for a great, and I mean a great entry level sewing and embroidery machine and don't want to compromise quality, then this is the machine for you! I couldn't believe my eyes, and the manual that comes with the Pfaff Creative 1.5, that for an entry level machine it's souped up with these, but not only, 5 awesome features found in the higher end models.

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3. The large throat space allows for a large embroidery area.

A 9 1/2" X 6" embroidery area. This large hoop is included with the machine allowing me to add embroidery details to my quilts and even more important to me, add personalized, long lasting embroidered labels to my quilts. With two fonts and 101 built-in designs there's sure to be something to make me happy. Not to mention how easy it is to download designs and transfer them to my machine.

4. Ultra fast embroidery While we're talking about embroidery--I'd be remiss not to mention how fast this machine sews. I finished my label in no time at all, allowing me more time for piecing and well other important things that can get in my way of quilting such as meal preparation and laundry.

5. Software Let me tell you how helpful and important this introductory software is. I can use the machine without the software but I can accomplish much more with this easy to use and intuitive software. It occurs very often for me to travel, commute, wait around at hockey or dance practice, and as long as I have my laptop with me, I can design quilt labels or other quilting elements I want embroidered on my quilt, home decor or clothing items. The software is a bridge between my creativity, my laptop and the Pfaff Creative 1.5.

This machine is for you, and you and you…

I know what you're thinking-there's no way one machine is right for everyone and perhaps you're right but this one comes as close as you're going to get to meet the needs of a cross spectrum of sewers and quilters.

This is the sewing machine for you when: 1. You're looking to getting your first embroidery machine, on a budget.

2. You want to learn more about sewing machine software but aren't quite ready to jump in with both feet and buy an expensive model you might not use all features.

3. You're in the market for a second sewing machine for the cottage, winter place, traveling to classes.

(I know I'm guilty of this – I have a chair on wheels and roll between machines when I'm really in a hurry to get something done!)

The Pfaff Creative 1.5 is the machine for you! It's a great second machine which gives you the freedom to do some embroidery or sew, it really is an all in one affordable sewing machine.

In case you haven't figured it out, I LOVE this machine. It meets the needs of so many, it has a great introductory price, comes with a boatload of feet, designs, stitches etc. And maybe most important to many of us – EASY to use with PFAFF quality.

There's more to love about this machine than the 5 stellar features on a NEW entry level sewing machine.

Isn't it pretty? I'm trying to find a name for her right now Do you name you machines? I want to find the right name for this sleek, modern machine who makes me so happy!

4. You're an embroidery fiend and sometimes want two machines going at the same time.

The new PFAFF Creative 1.5 Sewing and Embroidery machine.

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3 PFAFF Creative 1. 5 features you can't live without

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machine just to ensure you're doing it the way the manufacturer recommends.

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orget that new car smell, nothing makes me smile more than that 'new machine' smell. I can't describe it any other way than to say it's a smell of happiness and wonder at the same time.

It's better than being a kid at Christmas because as an adult I'll cherish this new machine experience. As I explained in yesterday's post, there are 5 great features to the PFAFF Creative 1.5 but there are 3 PFAFF Creative 1.5 features you can't live without.

Let me explain it further.

It's the little things that make me happy too. The pretty packaging, not just a plain cardboard box, two boxes within the large box, one for the machine and one for the embroidery arm. It's like getting three presents in one! It's a pretty basic set up, the power cord goes into the side of the machine and then into the wall outlet, the foot pedal cord plugs into the machine and once you turn the machine on you're ready to rock and roll.

Let me share an important tip here...when I say plug your machine into the wall outlet that's fine but what I really mean is plug your machine into a battery back up surge protector which is plugged into your wall, especially if you live in an area prone to power surges and outages. You don't have to do this, but don't you want to take the best possible care of your machine?

If I were to tell you one of the best gifts I ever got for Christmas was a label maker you would think me just a little nerdy and organized. I must confess to at least being a little nerdy but I love my label maker so I can work towards being organized. So after that confession, is it any surprise to find out that I love the next part of unboxing a new machine? I open the manual to the page where it lists all the accessories and feet that come with the machine.

Let me tell you this machine is loaded! Eight, count them, eight different presser feet are included with this machine including a one step buttonhole foot, an embroidery slash free motion foot and all of the standard pressure feet needed to stitch out one of the 150 built-in machine stitches including some that go up to 7mm wide.

Once I have all of my bits and bobs accounted for and stored safely in the accessory tray that's included it's time to go for a test drive. Before you can start you need to wind a bobbin and thread the machine. Get out your handy, dandy, easy to read and well illustrated manual.

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This is a manual one can actually understand! If this is the first machine you buy ever-- don't worry, you'll love this manual, if you have been sewing and quilting since you were little and have used multiple machines it's still a good idea to get out the manual for a new

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There could be a little nuance you aren't aware of, or heaven forbid you picked up a bad habit somewhere down the line, you don't want to transfer that bad habit to this new machine.

I love the self-explanatory screen telling me what the machine is doing at any given time.

How many times have you been called out of your sewing space for very important reasons like someone can't find the peanut butter jar, or better yet the doorbell rings and someone is trying to sell you something you neither need nor want. For one reason or another, I often leave a room to go do something else and when I get back to the original room I can't remember what I was doing before I got interrupted. No problem! I just check out the nice clear screen on PFAFF Creative 1.5 sewing and embroidery machine and I know what I was doing, in this picture... I was winding a bobbin.

This is very exciting, as this machine is so new it's just hitting your local PFAFF dealer now, I think the demand for this fine tuned entry level is going to be hot.

I'm not surprised, after seeing the 5 stellar features discussed yesterday and the 3 PFAFF Creative 1.5 features you can't live without discussed today! This is a great machine to have as a second machine to take along travels, or classes. Delay no further! Time to treat yourself. Tomorrow, we start a project, I'm thinking of Christmas in July...time to start THOSE projects...

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A super accurate

way to make

Here’s how to make the Flying Geese blocks: 1. For each Flying Geese block, cut 1 - 4" x 7" rectangle from your main fabric and 2 4" squares from a different fabric.

2. Using a fabric marking tool, draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the wrong side of each square.

1

Flying Geese

quilt blocks Jean Boyd

I have been a quilt maker for many years and have been designing and publishing patterns since 1997. For the past several years I have designed patterns for new fabric collections from Northcott Fabrics. A recent design required me to make several Flying Geese blocks that would finish at 3" x 6". I'm happy to share with you my super accurate way to make Flying Geese blocks. We'll have fun exploring wonderful possibilities with Flying Geese and the bonus feature of what to do with the leftover half-square triangles!

When making Flying Geese blocks, I always make a slightly larger block than necessary and then trim it to the exact size. Although this takes a little longer, it results in very accurate blocks.

When trimming the blocks, I discovered that I had a lot of little half-square triangles left over. The perfect chance to create another project.

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3. Stitch on the drawn line to sew a 4" square to one end of a 4" x 7" rectangle, right sides together.

4. Then stitch ½" away from the pencil line.

5. Cut between the stitching lines. Press the triangle away from the rectangle.

2

3

4

6. Sew a 4" square to the other end of the rectangle. Cut and press as before.

5

6

7. You now have a Flying Geese block and 2 small half-square triangles.

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A super accurate way to make Flying Geese blocks may take a little more time, but it's very well worth it!

A variation of the Friendship Star quilt block The finished size of this block is 22½".

After it is quilted and bound, it will be a great little table topper or wall quilt. You could also add an outside border if you wanted to make it a little bigger.

What a good way to use up those leftover half-square triangles from those Flying Geese blocks!

A clever variation of this quilt block is as simple as using the same fabric in the center of the block that you used for the star points. It gives a whole different look to the design.

And now you have a variation of the Friendship Star Wreath quilt!

Friendship Star quilt block made up in a wreath formation.

Made with leftover half-square triangles from Flying Geese blocks.

Friendship Star quilt block made up in a wreath formation.

Made with leftover half-square triangles from Flying Geese blocks.

So, the next time you're making Flying Geese quilt blocks, remember you'll have some bonus half-square triangles to play with! It's super easy to put together half-square triangles and make another Friendship Start quilt block. See if you can make up your own combination of half-square triangles!

Until next time...happy quilting.

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After a visit to my favorite fabric store a couple of weeks ago I came home with some very exciting tools and notions to use.

I'm always keen to try new tools and today I'm using the cutting system called TrueCut which includes My Perfect Rotary Cutter and a 6" x 24" TrueCut ruler.

So without further ado, let's check out those 9 reasons why you should use the TrueCut System.

I'll be creating a summer table runner with all of these wonderful tools. It's fast and easy and perfect for home or the cottage.

9

Gather up the materials and follow along.

The tools and notions found at my favorite fabric and quilt shops!

reasons why you should use

The TrueCut System

Jennifer Houlden

shopping list yy 5 black & white fat quarters for background and binding yy 3 fat quarters in 3 different colors yy fusible web such as Heat n Bond yy variegated threads for decorative stitching such as Sulky Cotton Blendables yy 1 package green Rick Rack yy piece of low loft batting yy buttons for embellishment such as the Dress It Up decorative buttons

TrueCut ruler, My Perfect Rotary Cutter and Unique cutting mat

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Shall we get started?...

The TrueCut System I'm all ready to go with my ruler, cutter and mat.

I love the vibrant blue of the Unique cutting mat, it definitely adds some color to my cutting table.

1 - The lines are well marked on the clear plastic in black with a gray outline for easy visualization. I wasn't sure about the open cross area at first as I found the ruler really busy. But then realized that these open areas made it easier to view the edge of the fabric for precise alignment.

2 - The vertical edges of the ruler have a lip that act as a track for the cutter.

The coolest feature I've ever seen in a ruler. This means no more wandering rotary cutter and no more wasting fabric. Especially perfect for beginners or quilter's with arthritis or shaky hands.

Close up of ruler markings

Track on edge of ruler

Photos by Jennifer Houlden.

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My Perfect Rotary Cutter

3 - The Handle: My Perfect Rotary Cutter doesn't look like all the other cutters you've seen and that's because it's made with a unique handle to reduce strain on the wrist. The cutting power is directly over the blade with this unique handle design.

4 - Safety Guard: with the slide of a button the safety guard is released to expose the blade for use. It's always a good idea to keep the safety guard engaged when the cutter is not in use.

5 - Cutter Guide: My Perfect Rotary Cutter has a guide that fits onto the ruler track making for perfect cuts every time. No wandering off the edge of the ruler. Such a brilliant feature and not only perfect for the beginner quilter but also everyone else too!!!

Unique handle design

6 - It can be switched to a left-handed set up.

7 - The blades are easy to switch out and the straight blade can be switched to a pinking blade if needed.

Safety guard release

Guide area that fits in track on ruler

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8 - Just remove the guide system and My Perfect Rotary Cutter can be used with any other ruler.

9 - This last feature is so cool - it can be personalized!! The clear cover on the handle is removable and your name can be put in place of the TrueCut emblem. Having your tools marked clearly with your name is always a must when going to class and retreats and TrueCut hasPersonalized made itcutter easy to do so.

And finally My Perfect Rotary Cutter is available in three different sizes - 28mm, 45mm and 60 mm. I guess there are really 10 reasons not 9!

When I first started quilting way back when I bought all my fabric for my first project and was cutting all the pieces prior to class.

Well, I kept arcing the cutter away from the ruler's edge and wasting fabric. My husband who is an engineer finally said give that thing to me and I'll cut your pieces so you don't waste anymore fabric. Now if I had this cutting system when I first started out, there would not have been any fabric wastage. Even now as a veteran rotary cutter and ruler user I still occasionally wander off the path and now with this system I'll never wonder off the path again.

Cutter sitting in track on ruler

Bonus: personalized cutter!

Strips cut and ready for sewing

After reviewing these wonderful cutting tools and familiarizing myself with how they work I'm going to put them to use cutting two of my fat quarters each into five - 3½″ x WOF strips to create the background. I used a white with black and a light gray with black fabrics for the checkerboard. What fabrics are you going to use?

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3

the

most important

Ladybug Garden Runner Making the binding

tips for

If you would like to see the whole process of making this zany quilted runner, I encourage you to visit QUILTsocial.com (week of July 13, 2015) for the free step by step tutorial. Because I get many questions about binding, I thought it would be a great idea to write up a tutorial for this summer issue. Here we go...

I chose to use the black fabric from my bundle of fat quarters that I found at my favorite fabric store. The black will finish the piece nicely by creating a frame around the flowers.

binding Jennifer Houlden

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TIP 1 It's important to get a full binding. By that I mean that there's no excess flat fabric but rather the binding is full of the three layers of the quilt. A good way to achieve this is to cut the binding at 2″ or if you prefer 2⅛″. Most people cut their binding at 2 ½″ which can result in a flat binding at the edge of the quilt. I have always cut it at 2 ¼″ but today I am going to cut it at 2″ and see how it goes.

After cutting the binding strips I sewed them together on the bias to make one long continuous strip. In order to ensure that the strips are even, you may wish to draw a diagonal line to sew along.

Once sewn together trim the excess fabric to a ¼" at the joins and press the fabric in half with wrong sides together.

I use steam when doing this to get a nice crisp edge on my binding. This is the edge that will be hand sewn to the back of the quilt.

Drawn line as stitching guide

Attaching the binding TIP 2 It's very important to use a walking foot or a dual feed action foot when sewing the binding to the quilt top.

Because the binding is being stitched through the layers of the quilt there's extra fabric to move along under the foot. With a walking foot or dual feed foot the fabric is moved evenly and smoothly under the foot and over the feed dogs making for a crisp clean stitching line to hold the binding in place.

Crisp clean edge on pressed binding Waling foot and dual feed foot

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TIP 3 It's also important to stop a ¼″ from each corner to create the perfect mitered corner. By not sewing that ¼″ from the corner it allows some space for the fabric when turning it to the back of the quilt and create a perfect flat mitered corner with no puckers.

When attaching the two ends of the binding I also sew them on the bias, trim the excess fabric away and finish sewing the binding strip to the quilt top.

Once the binding is attached I then press the binding over with steam to create a nice crisp seam and then turn over to the back and hand stitch in place.

A wonderful tool to hold the binding in place while hand sewing are the Wonder Clips from Clover. They look like teeny tiny clothespins and clip over the binding to hold it in place. They come in several sizes and colors.

The mitered corner is perfect thanks to all the important tips from above.

Stop a quarter inch before the end at each corner - stylet shows edge of fabric and needle is a quarter inch back

Attach binding ends with a bias join

Press binding over with a steam iron

Perfectly mitered corner

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Wonder clips to hold binding in place for hand sewing Photos by Jennifer Houlden.

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Do you use these

9

good sewing habits?

Elaine Theriault

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Preventing unsightly thread nests You know what I’m talking about! Ugly messes of threads – how do you tame those threads when you start sewing at the edge of a piece?

I’m using the Husqvarna Viking Holding the threads at the beginning of a line of decorative stitching

Sapphire 930 sewing machine to show you some “neat” little

Bobbin and top thread will make a mess if not controlled at the beginning of a seam

housekeeping habits to make your projects

Hold those threads

Two ways to control those loose threads when you start a seam.

1. Hold the threads in your hand so they don’t become entangled on the underside of the work.

2. Use a scrap of fabric to start the seam and let the threads tangle on the scrap.

look amazing! I’ve Top and bobbin threads are easy to clip off – no tangled threads

thrown in a couple of other tips as well.

I wonder, do you use these 9 good sewing habits? - Elaine

Thread ends were not held at the beginning of the seam and they have tangled on the underside of the work

Hold the top and bobbin threads in your left hand when you start the seam to prevent the threads from tangling

Husqvarna Viking Sapphire 930

Start your seam on a scrap of fabric to prevent tangling on the underside of your work

In the next example below, I’m doing some rows of decorative stitches. I’m holding the threads behind the needle to get started.

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Pull up the bobbin thread If you’re going to start sewing in the middle of your project, bring the bobbin thread up through your work and tuck the threads behind the presser foot. This prevents any thread nests underneath the project.

It’s easy to bring the bobbin thread up.

Position your needle where you want to start sewing. Use needle up/needle down twice. Pull on the top thread and the bobbin thread will pop to the surface. Then tuck both threads behind the presser foot. No more tangles!

Selective Thread Cutter in the top row of the function button panel Pulling the bobbin thread to the top of the project

Cutting the threads at the end of a seam On the Sapphire 930, there are three ways to cut your threads at the end of a seam. You can use 1. the Selective Thread Cutter, 2. the manual thread cutter or 3. use a pair of snips (small scissors with finger holes).

I have used all three and I have to say my personal favorite is by hand with a pair of snips! It’s all what you get used to and after my thread cutter broke, well I had no choice! Now that I have the option again, I find that I’m perfectly happy trimming the threads by hand.

Try all three ways – some work better than the others depending on what you are sewing and how much of a hurry you are in!

Using the selective thread cutter, aka... the scissors!

The scissors are a great feature, especially if you’re working on something bulky that would be difficult to reach underneath and cut the threads off.

If you’re using the scissors feature on the Sapphire 930, then the bobbin thread won’t be long enough to pull through as mentioned in the previous tip.

The scissors do leave a tail that you’ll have to ignore or deal with.

This feature can also be programmed into a sequence of stitches.

Thread tail end when using the thread cutter

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Using the manual cutter on the side of the sewing machine When you finish the seam, pull the work to the side and use the manual thread cutter on the side of the sewing machine to cut off the bobbin and top threads.

Doing this will leave a healthy length for the start of the next seam. A quick downward motion works best. This is great when you’re in a hurry and need to get to the next step quickly!

I’ve been known to be already standing and ready to walk to the ironing board and yank the threads through the cutter!

Chain piecing Nothing to trim once the pieces are snipped apart

Chain piecing Another way to keep your work tidy is to chain piece.

Because you can get those pieces very close together when you’re sewing them, there are no threads to trim once you clip the pieces apart.

Manual thread cutter

Clip the threads by hand using snips When I complete the seam, I pull my work to the back of the sewing machine.

Then using a pair of snips, I clip the threads close to the work.

I find that pulling to the back rather than the front or the side gets my threads more or less organized for the start of the next seam.

Pull the work to the back so the threads are more or less organized for the start of the next seam.

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Anchoring the end of a seam

The needle threader

When we sew clothing, we do a backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to ensure the seam is secure. When we quilt, there’s no need – again you must watch the stitch length.

Needle threaders are a great feature on the sewing machine but can sometimes be very frustrating to use.

If you find that your needle won’t stay threaded once you release the needle threader, try putting some slack in the thread – the needle will stay threaded every time.

However there are times when it’s necessary to anchor the ends of the seams and the Sapphire 930 comes with a FIX function which essentially ties a knot by stitching forward and backward several times in the same spot. So where exactly would you use this FIX function?

The FIX function is great if your seam is going to start or finish in the middle of the work rather than the edge of the piece where the seam end will be encased in another seam.

Applique – You must secure the end of applique stitching if no other stitching will anchor the end.

The needle threader

Top stitching – The ends of the row of top stitching must be anchored if no other row of stitching will anchor the end.

Stitching down trim, decorative stitches are a couple of other instances that come to mind.

And one more – when you’re making a pocket for a bag (or other item similar), you’ll stitch around the pocket leaving an opening to turn inside out. I anchor the beginning and the end of those seams to prevent the stitching from pulling out when I turn the item inside out.

Anchor the beginning and ending of these seams (pocket to be turned inside out) with the FIX function

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No slack in the thread when I am trying to use the needle threader

A little slack in the thread should keep the needle threaded once you release the needle threader

No pressure foot lever One other feature that I wanted to point out with the Husqvarna Viking Sapphire 930 is that there is NO presser foot lever! The presser foot lowers automatically once you hit the foot pedal or the STOP/START button on the function panel.

A very useful feature especially if you have something very tricky lined up to sew and you need both hands to hold all the pieces in place (can you tell I hate pinning!). No need to reach behind and drop the presser foot.

No manual lever for the presser foot

Pressing Although this tip has nothing to do with the sewing machine, I came across these blocks this morning and thought they would be a good example to show you how important pressing is.

I hate when things are not well pressed. It can make a piece look absolutely terrible.

Have a look at the poor block below – yes it has been pressed but not well.

A poorly pressed block

The block is now well pressed and looks much better

If I were in the market for a general all purpose sewing machine, I have to say that the Husqvarna Viking Sapphire 930 is a beautiful sewing machine.

Even though I’m technically on vacation – I can’t stop sewing! Once you get comfortable with the features and functions, there’s NOTHING that this sewing machine doesn’t tackle beautifully!

There you have it – I hope you use these 9 good sewing habits and hopefully they save you a bit of time as well!

The seams are very wonky on the back

The back of the well pressed block

Photos by Elaine Theriault

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2

quilting techniques to improve speed and accuracy Elaine Theriault I never seem to have a shortage of quilting topics to talk about on QUILTsocial, however I do have time management issues. Of course – I have time management issues all the time.

To help me out, there are lots of time saving features in the quilting world. And remember that old saying “a stitch in time saves nine”?

If you take the time to perfect the two areas we are talking about today, you’ll become a much more accurate sewer and save time to boot. How awesome is that?

Read on and see what I'm talking about.

Husqvarna Viking Designer Ruby Royale

I spend a lot of time teaching classes and I get a lot of questions about technical issues in the quilting world. I thought it would be good to address two issues that I see over and over again since both are related to the sewing machine. I’m going to use the Ruby Royale as my guinea pig as I walk you through what causes these issues and how to fix them.

Stitch Length

If you are a garment or home decorator sewer, your sewing techniques and sewing machine settings differ substantially from those of a quilter. When I learned how to sew clothing way back when, I learned to start and stop seams with a back stitch to ensure that the seams were not going to pull open at the ends.

Three strips joined together in a strip set

All computerized sewing machines are set with a default stitch length which seems to vary between 2.0 and 3.0. The default on the Ruby Royale is 2.5. My rationale for this is that sewing machines are mostly used for garment or home dec sewing. Gasp!!

You mean sewing machines are not made for quilters? Nope – I could be making that up, but there are a lot of non-quilters who are purchasing sewing machines.

Depending on the pattern, quilter’s have unique methods like strip piecing and chain piecing which means that the end of each seam is not secured.

For those not in the know, strip piecing means joining several strips together along the long side and then sub cutting them into sections.

You can see from the above example that it would be very hard to back stitch between those sections since the seams were initially sewn as one seam. To cut the pieces individually and secure each beginning and end would be very time consuming.

Strip set cut into sub sections

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Chain piecing means sewing one seam after another without cutting the thread.

If the stitch length is too long, then the seams will have a tendency to come apart. I see this very frequently on quilts, especially at a border where there is no cross seam to secure the stitching in place.

When I sew another seam across the end of a seam, that helps to secure the stitching so it doesn’t pull apart.

However as in the case at the bottom right, there is no seam that crosses that border seam to hold it in place.

I frequently mention to people that their stitch length is too long and I usually get one of two common answers: 1. ” I didn’t know it should have been smaller. I just sewed at whatever the stitch length was when I turned on the sewing machine.”

2. “Oh I know – I like it like that. It makes it easier to rip out stitches!”

Ooops – neither answer is acceptable!

The best way to solve this problem is to decrease the stitch length to 2.0. This shorter stitch length allows you to strip piece and chain piece and no worries about the stitches coming loose at either end of the stitching.

Chain piecing

The first thing I do when I turn on the Ruby Royale (or any of my sewing machines) is to decrease the stitch length to 2.0.

You can always use the My Stitches menu on the Ruby Royale to make your own custom stitch (with a shorter length) so you don’t have to remember to change it. But I find it very simple to just use the stylus and decrease the stitch length to 2.0. Then I'm good to go for that piecing session.

¼" Seam Allowance

This is a HUGE issue with many quilters. They're unable to get an accurate or consistent seam allowance.

What exactly is a 1⁄4" seam allowance? When we talk about 1⁄4" seam allowance, what we really mean is a scant 1⁄4" seam allowance. The seam allowance should be just a thread or two less than 1⁄4". And why is that? Well as your fabric folds back over the seam allowance, the height of that fold takes up some fabric. If you don’t compensate for that fold, your seam allowance will be perfect, but the piece will be too small.

The end of this border seam is pulling apart

There are many many different styles of 1⁄4" feet available. Some are clear, some have guides, and it really requires that one experiment with the various styles to see what works best for you.

I know that switching from one style to another is a big deal! It takes some time to readjust to the new foot.

Things like needle position, thickness of thread, your fabric, how you position the seam – all of these can have a bearing on the actual seam allowance.

Every time you switch to a new foot you should do the following test to make sure that your seam allowance is what you want it to be.

Large stitches will result in seams pulling apart at the unsecured ends

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Take three pieces of fabric that measure 11⁄2" x 6". (make sure that your cutting is accurate). Sew them together along the long side with what you think is your scant 1⁄4". Press the seams well (that is another story).

Top row – Stitch length of 3.0 Middle row – Stitch length of 2.5 Bottom row – Stitch length of 2.0

Lay a quilting ruler ON TOP of the sample. Does it measure 31⁄2" wide? If not, what is wrong? If the sample is narrower than 31⁄2", then the seam allowance is too big.

In the examples, you can see that the edge of the fabric extends to the right of the Quilter’s 1⁄4" Piecing foot P (the front part of the foot). This results in a seam allowance that is a bit too generous. You can see that when we place the ruler on top of the sample, the piece is smaller than 31⁄2".

If the sample is too big, then the seam allowances are too small.

Now the seam allowance is too small resulting in the test piece being too large once the ruler is placed on top of the sample.

Even when “stretched”, the end of the seam allowance is secure with 2.0 stitch length

Yet another sample here (using the Quilter’s 1⁄4" Piecing foot P), the edge of the foot gives a nice scant 1⁄4" seam allowance. The test piece is exactly 31⁄2".

Imagine you're making a block with a lot of seams. If that seam allowance is not correct, you will end up with a very different sized block than you’re supposed to have.

While there are numerous gadgets and guides on the market to help with the scant quarter inch, I find that if you do a bit of work up front and use the foot on the sewing machine, you will have no problem with accuracy.

A few threads are taken as the fabric folds over the seam allowances, hence the need for a SCANT 1⁄4", not an exact 1⁄4"

Depending on the 1⁄4" foot and settings on the sewing machine, you may have to move the needle to get the scant 1⁄4" seam allowance. Alternatively, you may have to move the fabric slightly away from the edge of the foot or flange. The key is to TEST so you know what position your fabric needs to be in, in order to get that accurate and consistent seam allowance.

Quilter’s 1/4" Piecing foot P

Because each sewing machine and/or foot can be very different, it's important you sew the same project on the same machine with the same foot. However I found that I started using several different sewing machines and it became an issue to remember which project had been started on which sewing machine and with which foot.

Four different styles of 1⁄4" piecing feet for the Husqvarna Viking sewing machines

Seam allowance test sample is TOO SMALL

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I found the Quilter’s 1⁄4" Piecing foot P and I fell in love with it.

There is a hole in the center of the foot which means that I do NOT rely on the needle position or any setting on the sewing machine for my scant 1⁄4" seam allowance. I use the EDGE of the

The fabric extends beyond the edge of the 1⁄4" foot

foot as my guide. That means I can use this foot on ANY of my sewing machines and I will get the SAME quarter inch.

What a huge time saver that is. I love it!

Either way, you MUST figure out the setting that works for you. If you do not, you will find yourself ripping and since you have shortened your stitch length, it won’t be as easy!

Keep the seam allowances consistent all the way through the seam. Sewers have a tendency to let go of the fabric as they near the end of the seam and the fabric shifts creating a too small or too large seam allowance at the end.

Sew to the end of the seam, then stop.

Think of driving a car – once you reach the end of your driveway, do you take your hands off the wheel to collect your things? I didn’t think so!

Now it’s time for you to get to work.

Get some scraps and experiment. This is not a hard exercise, yet the time and effort you will save will be huge.

Seam allowance test sample is TOO BIG

See how the fabric is positioned to the left of the edge of the Quilter’s 1⁄4" piecing foot P

Seam allowance test sample is exactly 31⁄2" – PERFECT

The fabric is right on the edge of the Quilter’s 1⁄4" piecing foot P

Bobbins

A quick word about bobbins. I was sewing the other day and the Ruby Royale was making a terrible noise.

The bobbin sounded like it was jumping out of the bobbin case. I had visions of the tension going crazy. I checked the back – no – everything seemed to be OK. I checked the bobbin and didn’t “see” anything unusual.

I finished the bobbin with it making a noise the entire time. I switched to a different bobbin.

AH – I know what the problem was.

The first bobbin I used was OLD and WORN OUT. Thus it was bouncing around in the bobbin case and making all that noise. Once I put a NEW bobbin in, the sewing machine made no noise.

Top seam allowance is too big Middle seam allowance is too small Bottom seam allowance is perfect!

Quilter’s 1⁄4" Piecing foot P

Lesson learned – bobbins do wear out. If they make noises – ditch them.

Ooops – not hard to tell which bobbin is the old one! OK – I will go through my bobbins and throw out the old ones.

After all these years – I'm still learning.

New bobbin on the left – old bobbin on the right

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The

mbroidered E word

Designer Ruby Royale Sampler book

I'm very excited to share with you all the project possibilities that one can do with the built-in software on the Husqvarna Viking Designer Ruby Royale. Let's have a look at the written word and quilting.

Words are powerful. Among other things, they can be emotional, they can be fun and they can be functional. Let’s have a look at how easy it is to build words into some quilting and sewing projects.

Built-in Fonts

&

quilting Elaine Theriault

The Designer Ruby Royale has four built-in fonts that come in three different sizes for each font. To familiarize myself with all the font styles and sizes, I stitched them all out one day for a reference even though there are good examples of them in the Sampler book.

Memory Pillow

I made a memory pillow for a friend of mine last month. She gave me a nice sentiment and I machine embroidered it on the pocket of the memory pillow. Check the following pages for the full instructions on how to make this pillow. This kind of project can be made for any occasion.

Get that thinking cap on and come up with your own idea.

Don’t forget to send us pictures. I’d love to see your ideas.

Words on a quilt Stitch out of the four built-in fonts in three different sizes for each font

Since I’m predominately a quilter, it would make sense that I try to find ways to use words on quilts. Giving the Designer Ruby Royale a test drive was a good opportunity to finish up a quilt top that I had started years ago (yes – a UFO!) I wanted to embroider words in a border for this I Spy quilt. It just never happened.

Now I get to walk you through the process! While you're following along, can you think of a project that would benefit from the addition of words?

I started by compiling a list of “I Spy” items from the novelty prints in the quilt.

Now I had two ways of embroidering the words on the border. I could do each word individually and sew the words together or I could embroider them on one piece of fabric.

I decided to embroider just the words and sew them together afterwards. That would give me a lot of flexibility and it would be faster as I would have no color changes to deal with.

Memory pillow with embroidered sentiment on the pocket

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Once the design (six words) was set and I entered into Embroidery Stitch-out, I was able to see how long it would take to embroider each hooping. In this case – 19 minutes. I have an interesting story to tell you about the length of time to stitch out designs later in this post. I did four separate hoopings. One

for yellow thread, one for blue, one for green and one for red.

Rather than have the embroidery machine stop after each word, I simply shut off the STOP (monochrome function in Embroidery Mode) function which kept the embroidery machine working until it had completed all the words for each hooping. If I would have had to change colors, I would have left STOP/monochrome function engaged. In some cases, the words were short enough that I could get two words per line. There may be a way to keep the images completely separate, but I ended up putting spaces between the words. The stitches were very large and easy to remove once I was ready to work with the words.

I have to confess that I wasn’t as careful as I should have been with the placement of the words. I cut the border 2 1⁄2" wide and I hadn’t left quite enough room between the bottom two rows of words. Note to self: ‘Next time – make sure to leave ample room between the lines.’

There was plenty of room at the top of the hoop so I could have easily got six words per hooping.

I cut the words into 2 1⁄2" wide strips. Then I arranged them around the quilt to help with the initial placement.

The completed quilt top – it is GORGEOUS!

Once I had a basic idea of how to divide up the colors, I was able to fit the words into a border around the I Spy quilt.

My inspiration for the above quilt came from a book from Possibilities. I was just starting to quilt (1998) and when I saw how the words were used in the border of the I Spy quilt – well if I have to be honest – I think that was the clincher to buy an embroidery machine many, many years ago.

That first I Spy quilt, which was intended for my daughter, was donated to a guild for a raffle quilt. This is the replacement quilt and now the top is done! My daughter is now 19 – perhaps a bit old for an I Spy quilt?

The stitch pattern is very dense

THE sashes (or how our children get us into trouble)

I will reiterate that I love to have the ability to do machine embroidery – I just don’t have too many opportunities. However when I want to machine embroider something, I CAN! Two years ago, my daughter was graduating from high school and was on the prom committee. At prom, various awards are presented in the form of sashes. The awards included Most Unique, Prom Queen and Prom King, Best Dressed, etc. There were 14 in total.

Madeline came home and asked if we could make nice sashes out of satin instead of whatever the committee was going to come up with. My Mom instincts kicked in and I said YES. Then horror of horrors – the committee was going to do some horrible glitter glue thing for the lettering on my beautiful sashes.

No way! I thought about appliqueing the letters on, but there were a LOT of letters. Hmmmm – why not embroider them? It won’t take long.

So I made the sashes out of an inexpensive satin. And to make things more challenging, the letters had to be in gold metallic.

If you want to read the original story on my personal blog it is pretty funny.

“Manni” modeling one of the sashes

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I started those sashes with the best of intentions, however, I had no idea that the fill pattern we chose for the letters was dense.

Oh – let me rephrase that – that Madeline chose. Me, not being the smartest embroidery machine operator in the room, said, “No problem”.

Quilt label stitched out with an embroidery machine

Well I don’t remember how much in advance of the prom we started those sashes, but I swear my embroidery machine ran night and day for weeks to get them done. I timed my errands around the hoopings. I was counting down the minutes and those sashes got delivered to the prom (I know that was cutting it close) with not much time to spare before they were presented! This is an experience I’ll never forget! If memory serves me correctly, each letter took between one half hour and one hour to stitch out. There were 14 sashes in total (155 letters). Yes – do the math!!!

Now if I would have had the Designer Ruby Royale, I would have realized right away by checking out the stitching time that I was in for a long haul. Live and learn!

The sashes were beautiful and definitely the talk of the evening – so I would like to think!

More words on quilts

While these next samples were not stitched on the Designer Ruby Royale, I thought you would enjoy seeing various ways that embroidered words can be incorporated into our projects.

These projects, like the sashes, were stitched on an older Husqvarna Viking embroidery machine.

Personalized swim team towel

I’m in the process of making a quilt for myself. The theme is “all about me – in words”. One of the words that will be incorporated into the quilt is my personal blog address. I found a neat font and stitched it out. It will likely become a border in the quilt.

Blog address stitched out in embroidery

Detail of the embroidered lettering

A number of years ago, a friend of mine got married. Another friend of mine and I decided to make a quilt, but instead of making a large quilt, we decided that two lap sized quilts would be better. They were identical so to distinguish which was which – I embroidered HIS and HERS on the quilt tops. The writing is very subtle, but it’s there!

Machine embroidered quilt labels Embroidered words on swim towels

While the above uses of embroidered words were mostly for fun, there’s also the functional side of embroidered words. My daughter was on a swim team and the entire team had the same orange towel. I choose a funky font and embroidered her name. No more lost towel!

Machine embroidered words in quilt sashings

Another use of words on a quilt is to identify the name of the block. In this example below, I used the built-in alphabet to stitch the block name on the sashing. If the sashing was larger, I could have used the embroidery fonts.

The yellow and blue words stitched out

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A customer of mine wants a memory quilt. The hands of the family members are appliqued to the block background. Each person’s name is machine embroidered in the sashing. I used the Clarendon 20 mm font from the built-in fonts on the Designer Ruby Royale.

This isn’t the final layout of the quilt, but you get the idea of how I’m using the embroidery fonts for the project.

Even more options with Husqvarna Quick Font

While there are four built-in fonts on the Designer Ruby Royale, there are scads of fonts to choose from if you happen to have the Husqvarna Quick Font software, which is free.

It has the ability to use most TrueType and OpenType fonts in the embroidery process. Oh dear – looks like I’m going to crack that software package open. My heart is racing thinking of all the possibilities.

The Husqvarna Viking Designer Ruby Royale has so many options with the built-in editing functions that we talked about yesterday.

All we need is to let our imagination and creativity go wild.

Embroidery fonts used in the quilt sashing

Block name stitched in the sashing of the block

Spaces were used between two short words – large basting stitches were easy to remove

The STOP (monochrome) function (ON in the photo) was turned off to eliminate stops for color changes Getting ready to stitch out the words in the Royal hoop

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mbroidered E Memories Machine Embroidered Memory Pillow

As you can imagine, I’m always on the hunt for new projects to share with you.

One of the ideas was a Memory Pillow. My friend Karen lost her husband last year and I thought a Machine Embroidered Memory Pillow would be perfect keepsake for her.

- Elaine Theriault

shopping list •• a shirt – preferably cotton or other woven fabric. You could do the same thing with a knit material, but best if you stabilize the knit.

•• contrast fabric for the pocket – I used a second shirt •• pillow form (I used a 20" pillow form) •• zipper (I used a 14" zipper) •• stabilizer for the embroidery •• embroidery weight bobbin thread •• embroidery thread for the embroidery 50

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I love incorporating words or letters into my projects, what better way to show them off than by using machine embroidery on this memory pillow?

Having checked out the built-in fonts on the Husqvarna Viking Designer Ruby Royale and have loads of ideas of how to add the sentimental words. It would also give me a chance to use the Royal Hoop (360 x 200), get some practice adding multiple designs to the Embroidery Edit screen and well – just have fun watching the Ruby Royale do the embroidery!

The pocket is an important element in the project. I’m making an orange pocket for the blue shirt. Initially, I was going to take the orange pocket off the orange shirt, do the embroidery on the pocket and then sew it to the blue shirt. More on that in a minute. I find it very confining to think out the entire project ahead of time. I like to make it up as I go which you’ll see during this project.

I thought it was interesting to see how the shirt pockets are reinforced in two different ways. If ever you sew a pocket on anything – a garment, a bag or whatever – you must reinforce the stitching at the top. If you don’t – that pocket will rip off with repeated use and usually tear whatever the pocket is stitched to.

Ruby Royale stitching out the built-in fonts

While it was easy to remove the blue pocket, the orange pocket had a bar tack which is very secure.

It’s easy to get rid of the bar tack. On the inside of the shirt, take your sharp seam ripper and carefully insert it underneath the stitches of the bar tack. Slice the bar tack stitches open. Then from the right side of the garment, you can just rub the bar tack with your finger nail and most of those stitches will fall right out. You may need to pick a few more out with the seam ripper. Be careful – you don’t want to cut through the garment.

Reinforced pocket tops

Bar tack to reinforce pocket top

NOTE: There is nothing like having a sharp seam ripper. Did you know seam rippers get dull? Well, they do get dull. Make sure you replace your seam ripper when it isn’t doing a good job.

Next I used scissors and cut up the blue shirt. I cut carefully around the edges of the seams. Wait until you read all my tutorial before you attempt this. Since I’m a bit of a “let’s wing it girl“, I usually end up with some sort of challenge. You’ll see what I mean in a minute!

Both pockets are removed – big difference in size between them.

Shirt back removed from the shirt

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Then I repeated the same process for the shirt fronts. Cut them carefully with scissors. More on that in a few minutes.

Now I want to stitch the shirt fronts together. I could use the buttons as a way to get the pillow form inside the pillow cover, but I didn’t want the front to gape between the buttons. So I decided to stitch the front of the shirt closed.

I’m a detail person so if I stitched the front closed, I would end up with two lines of stitching down the edge of the placket.

So I removed the stitching along the edge of the placket. The one closest to the edge of the shirt.

Then I pinned the shirt fronts together (matching the strips) and sewed the two pieces together where I had previously removed the stitching.

The shirt fronts removed from the shirt

The original stitching on the placket. I removed the right most stitching.

Technically, the shirt placket looks the same, but now that right most line of stitching isn’t only holding the placket lining in place, both sides of the shirt are stitched together.

A small detail, but this is the front of the shirt and two lines of stitching would have driven me crazy!

Now I have two big pieces of fabric to make the pillow cover. One from the back of the shirt and one from the front.

Here’s where I ran into trouble. I didn't measure. I went shopping for the pillow form and I was going to purchase an 18" pillow form. But I liked the quality of the 20" pillow form better so I bought that one.

Now a little voice in the back of my head was saying “Are you sure the shirt is going to be big enough to cover the 20" pillow form?” I promptly ignored the voice and bought the bigger pillow form.

The shirt fronts stitched together

Follow instructions for making a cushion cover that you can find on the internet or at your local fabric store.

The “new” placket

I like to cut my squares for the front and back the same size as the pillow form. For a 20" pillow form we should have two 20" squares of fabric (the back technically is bigger to start since I’m putting a zipper in).

Have a look…

Shoot – if had of been a bit more careful with the scissors, I may have been able to eek out that extra little bit. But this is where the project gets exciting for me. I wasn’t too worried, because I could always get a smaller pillow form and I would be OK. Let’s think – think – think – what can we do to solve this problem?

Just short of what I need!

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AHA – there's a hem on the shirt – let’s open the hem and see how much more that gives me.

Let’s not forget that I like to round off the corners of the pillow cover. Oh yes – I’m good to go! See? There’s always a way!

This is my version of living on the edge – a problem comes up – how can it be solved? I love it!

I wanted to insert a zipper into the back of the pillow cover. Therefore I trimmed the front to 19 1⁄2" and the back was trimmed to 19 1⁄2" wide and as long as I could get from the back. I was going to try and match up the plaid when I inserted the zipper.

Opening the hem gives me an extra one half inch!

Cutting the pillow cover front (from the shirt front) and the pillow cover back (extra long to accommodate the zipper insertion)

Zipper inserted – not too bad on the plaid matching

Yes – there really is a zipper in there.

Machine embroidering the pocket Now it’s time to move to the pocket and the machine embroidery.

Karen gave me some text to embroider on the pocket. I was working with a very small area (the original orange pocket), so I did a complete sample stitch-out to see how it would work for the size. I did have to shrink the letters down a bit so they would fit on the pocket. There are ways to print this out rather than stitching it out, but we're not there yet.

When the sample was stitched out – I realized the pocket was too small. The embroidery would fit, but barely and that would make it look too squished. Oh dear – I hate making pockets, but looks like I have to bite the bullet and make one.

Well – I had an entire shirt – so I just hooped an area of the orange shirt and did the embroidery on that. I did not bother cutting the shirt apart. Notice that they are little marks on the hoop which are excellent for lining up your fabric.

TIP

A note about the cut size of the pieces and the pillow form size: Even though the pillow forms are a certain size – you can usually get away with a slightly smaller pillow cover.

If you were to make the pillow cover exactly the same size (in this case 20"), it wouldn’t fit nice and tight on the pillow form.

Original pocket is too small for the embroidery

I matched a strip on the shirt to the mark on the center top and center bottom to get the stripes straight.

I removed the stabilizer from the back of the embroidery design and cut out the pocket. I sort of eye balled the size based on the size of the embroidery. Then I used the original pocket as a guide to cut the angle for the bottom of the pocket.

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Embroidery in progress

Embroidery is complete

Using a lined index card to press under the edges of the pocket.

The bottom angle mimics the original pocket

The pocket is sewn onto the shirt front

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I hope you enjoyed the process of making the memory pillow. If you don’t want to make a memory pillow – you could put any special message, design, an applique or even a photo on that pocket. Make the pillow for a student going away to college or leaving home for the first time, a loved one who lives far away, a friend who moves away, a beloved pet.

The possibilities are endless.

One of the reasons I hated making pockets is that I could never press the edges consistently. Well I decided that a piece of lined index card would be a perfect guide. I could use the lines to get a consistent measure and the straight edge of the card worked like a charm to get a perfectly straight edge. Hmmm – I don’t hate pockets any more!

Notice in the picture below that I fused a piece of lightweight interfacing over the back of the stitches.

The pocket is a functional pocket and I didn’t want the rough edges of the underside of the embroidery to be felt.

Note to self: In future, make sure you do all the trimming on the front of the pocket (those jump stitches in the spaces) BEFORE you fuse the interfacing on! See – these projects are learning experiences for me too!

Next up was sewing the pocket to the shirt front. Notice that I reinforced the top of the pocket.

I rounded the corners as per my tutorial that was mentioned above.

I used the J foot and an overcast stitch to sew the pillow front and back together.

Make sure you open the zipper before you sew the two pieces together so you can turn the pillow cover right side out.

Lastly stuff the pillow form inside the pillow cover and VOILÀ – a beautiful Embroidered Memory Pillow.

I must admit that I love putting the pillow form inside the pillow cover. It’s like a big pillow fight as you shift everything around to make the stuffing fit into the corners and be evenly dispersed!

A good stress reliever!

Don’t you just love that I found a matching sofa to display it on! And I added my little signature tag to the pillow cover as well. Making those tags was covered in this link.

I would like to thank Karen (and Barclay) for sharing this very personal moment with us.

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fabric ational yed in harity mbers allenge.

BANNERS OF nd:

Visit our booth a

e of banners by th View a display ings e for Charity W d a m rs e n g si e each CHA D rg)for their outr o s. g in w y rit a h Banners of Hope (www.c . are small fabric banners with program inspirational messages that are on ti c ru st n o “C e th displayed in hospitals, shelters and in e m ti e m so d Spen our locations that greet members n construct ycharity a c u o y re e h w Zone” of the public in times of challenge.

Hope. own Banner of used in to a craft show near you! beComing n a c t c je ro p is al Learn how th te loacdisplay to promoVIEW ss of banners by the CHA e n si u b r o re o your st re o Designers m ourage cts. causes and enc ric in their proje b fa se u to rs e consum ENJOY some time in the “Construction Zone”

booth #1654

where you can construct your own Banner of Hope.

Offered at some of our events.

OH how this project can be used in your store, .org/BLEARN www.craftandhobby business, guild or community group to promote

local causes and encourage more consumers to use fabric in their projects.

For more information on events in 2015 visit

www.craftandhobby.org/Canada

Banners courtesy of Paula Jones, Ana Araujo, Kelly Goulder, Susan Pyrcz Weckesser.

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FALL

cleaning?

Regrettably, it's that time of year when my thoughts of closing the pool for the summer surface to the top of my to-do list, at least in my parts of the world. I reminisce of the good times had with family and friends, and start cleaning up the furniture for storage. This is a perfect time to check for wear and tear on patio cushions and awnings too. I check for seams that have ripped, after all it was an awesome summer hosting numerous BBQs. It's wise to stitch up these little rips to avoid more work when the rips become a bigger chore!

To accomplish this task, I use Coats& Clark Outsdoor thread for this purpose, and use the recommended needles (see tips on next page).

I see myself pulling out the patio cushions next spring with much excitement, and no repairs to make at that time, if I do it before storing it for the winter. A stitch in time, always saves nine.

While I'm at it, I'll make some more pool cushions for next year using the following instructions.

Outdoor Décor with Coats & Clark

poolside pillows One thing to keep in mind when sewing projects for use outdoors is that the fabric and thread will be constantly exposed to sunlight, moisture and humidity. Not only is a strong thread needed, but one that will not fade or weaken with constant exposure to the elements or the chlorine associated with pools.

Coats Outdoor thread is a bonded polyester, designed for this purpose. It's the same construction as the thread awning manufacturers use.

This thread is resistant to almost every form of weather-related abuse including UV rays and moisture. Use Coats Outdoor thread when sewing or repairing outdoor items like deck chairs and cushions for benches and chairs.

Coats Outdoor thread is a 12 wt., Tex 90, which is a very heavy thread – the heaviest that can be used on a home sewing machine. It does require some special handling to achieve a balanced stitch.

Photo courtesy of Coats & Clark.

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Here are some tips when using Coats Outdoor thread

Poolside Pillows Create cushions for poolside or deck using Coats & Clark’s Outdoor Thread.

Fabrics created for outside are also available and a great choice for this project.

Use a size 18 or 20 (110 or 120)

needle. A topstitching needle is recommended because it has a larger eye.

skill level intermediate

Use a longer stitch length, 6-8

finished measurements approximately 20" [51cm] squared x 3" [7.5cm] thick materials To make one pillow: Coats Outdoor Thread Outdoor fabric, 44 - 54" [112 - 137cm] wide: * ¾yd [68cm] print fabric- pillow base * 3⁄8yd [34.5cm] solid fabric for boxing strip * 1⁄8yd [11.5cm] solid color fabric for handle Foam rubber, 20" [51cm] squared x 3" [7.5cm] thick Plastic wrap or a large plastic dry-cleaner bag Instructions Cutting fabric 1. Base - 21" [53.3cm] square of print fabric. Cut 2.

2. Boxing - 4"+ x 41" [10.3+ x 104cm] strip solid fabric. Cut 2. (+ or 1" [2.54cm] wider than foam) 3. Handle - 4" x 9" [10.3 x 23cm] rectangle of solid fabric. foam Mark a 20" [51cm] square on foam. Hold foam on its edge and use a sawing motion to cut along the markings with a sharp serrated steak knife or electric knife.

Assembly boxing strip 1. On right side of both boxing strips, mark a dot at pillow corners as shown in Diagram 1. Also mark centre of each boxing strip. Mark lines for handle placement 3" [7.5cm] on either side of centre.

2. Reinforce corners by stay-stitching just inside the ½" [1.2cm] seam allowance, about an inch to each side of each dot. Clip the fabric up-to, but not-through the stay-stitching.

Place ends of boxing strips, right sides together. Stitch across end, creating a continuous circle.

stitches per 1" [4mm]. A thick thread needs more space to form a stitch If you are getting loops on the

underside, increase your upper tension.

Sew slowly. The thread is not as

flexible as all-purpose thread, so reducing your speed results in better stitch formation.

handle 1. Right sides together, fold the handle in half lengthwise and pin. Sew across each short end and long edge, leaving an opening for turning. Trim seams and clip corners. Turn and press. Top stitch 1⁄8" [3mm] along edges of handle.

2. Pin short ends at handle markings.

Stitch handle to boxing strip as shown in Diagram 2.

Joining boxing to base 1. Mark centre of each side of pillow base.

2. With right sides together and cut edges even, pin boxing strip to one pillow base, matching first each centre and seam of strip to each centre of base, then matching each clipped corner of strip to each corner of base.

Pin every 1½" - 2" [3.7 - 5cm].

3. Sew strip to base, pivoting at corners.

Sew remaining pillow base to the other side of the boxing, leaving an 18" opening centred along one edge.

Press and trim seams, clip corners and turn to right side through opening.

4. Wrap foam with plastic bag and slip into pillow cover. Reach inside cover and remove plastic. Slip stitch opening closed. Diagram 3.

Diagram 1 10 1⁄2"

20"

10 1⁄2"

x 6" x

Diagram 2

6"

Diagram 3 Diagram 3

Diagram 4 Diagram 4

faux piping With a hand needle and using a basting stitch, sew ½" [1.2cm] from seam line on both the base side and boxing strip side of the cover. Diagram 4.

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QUILTsocial bloggers 58

QUILTsocial

Jennifer Houlden http://quiltsbyjen.ca

Nancy Devine

Nancy Devine is a devoted user and collector of remnants, scraps, and vintage buttons. She lives in Aurora, Ontario, and can often be found working on her latest project, and playing around with her vintage (and much loved) Bernina machine.

Find more of her work and musings on her blog.

nancywhiskeynancyo.blogspot.com

Jean Boyd

www.patternsbyjeanboyd.com

Jean has been designing and publishing patterns since 1997. Her work has been published in several magazines in both Canada and the United States.

Jean holds a Fiber Arts Certificate in quilting and has taught extensively throughout Canada.

She was named "Canadian Teacher of the Year" in 2003 by the Canadian Quilters Association and has won numerous awards for her quilts..

Elaine made her first quilt at the tender age of 13.

The urge to quilt resurfaced when her daughter moved from a crib. The rest is history – she now teaches several days a week, makes quilts on commission and quilts for others on the long-arm.

Elaine Theriault

crazyquilteronabike.blogspot.com

Gail Berry-Graham

http://thequiltstudio.ca

.com

Jennifer runs Quilts by Jen, a fantastic educational resource for quilters with many great free tutorials ranging from how to choose fabrics, understanding the value of fabrics, pressing, building Bargello runs, pinning, binding, sandwiching, couching, quilting, and much more. Check them out!

â—?

issue 4

I fell in love with the art of quilting in my late 40s and it opened a whole new world of creativity and friendships. Thanks to this extraordinary way of life, I met amazing women and men I've come to love and call friends. I'm a blogger, long arm quilter, machine embroiderer, and a freelance educator teaching across Canada.

Designed

for the details.

Featuring Dual Duty Plus® Hand Quilting Thread.

For more information visit:

makeitcoats.com Pattern “Modern Traditional” courtesy of Cheryl A. Adam 15-023 © 2015 Coats. Coats is a registered trademark. All rights reserved.

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Authorized Bernina dealer providing quality service&support. Classroom rental space available.

Brampton Sew & Serge 289 Rutherford Rd S, Unit 7, Brampton, ON L6W 3R9  905.874.1564  bramptonsewnserge.com  monique@bramptonsewnserge.com Welcome to Your One Stop Sewing Centre! We are authorized dealers of Baby Lock, Husqvarna Viking, and Singer sewing machines and sergers. We also offer a full schedule of sewing classes for everyone.

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Log Cabin Yardage 425 Whitevale Road, Whitevale, ON L0H 1M0  416.818.1393  logcabinyardage.com  info@logcabinyardage.com LCY is your source for the newest exciting novelty and designer fabrics, kits and odds and ends.

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Rags to Rugs Craft Shoppe 98 Water Street, Pictou, NS B0K 1H0  902.485.2775 or toll-free 1.800.249.7465  ragstorugs.com  linda@ragstorugs.com Rug hooking supply store offering hooks, frames, rag cutters, new and recycled wool, dyes, scissors, rug hooking books and a variety of other rug hooking supplies. We feature the Bluenose Rug Hooking Patterns.

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Do you have written proof of its value for your insurance company? Get an appraisal now.

Ruby Pearl Quilts 500 King St W, Suite 8, Oshawa, ON L1J 2K9  905.436.3535  rubypearlquilts.com  joy@rubypearlquilts.com We are your full service source of professional quilting equipment, products, & courses. Led by 44 years of sewing experience & more than 20 years of quilting experience, we have the experience necessary to help you push your hobby to the next level!

Ruti's Needlebed 10 Thomas St, Mississauga, ON L5M 1Y5  905.821.9370  ruti.ca Mississauga's Finest Quilting and Knitting Store!! Come see our huge selection of yarn, fabric, supplies, sewing machines and knitting machines…a local store for all your quilting, sewing, knitting needs! We offer a wide variety of classes.

Sew Fancy Inc. Guelph, ON  519.824.4127  sewfancy.com  sales@sewfancy.com Your Premier Canadian Source for Specialty Sewing Supplies including Smocking, Heirloom Sewing, Goldwork, Silk Ribbon Embroidery, Needle Tatting, Swarovski Crystals, Sashiko, Quilting and more. Visit the website for the latest in sewing supplies.

Sewing Machines Etcetera 4155 Fairview St Unit 3, Burlington, ON L7L 2A4  905.639.5525  sewetc.com  info@sewetc.com At Sewing Machines Etcetera we have been in business since 1992, we will consistently and joyfully adapt to changes in technology and the marketplace, so we can offer the best in sewing related products and service to our whole community.

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Sue's Quilting Studio 22 Main St E, PO Box 427, Vankleek Hill, ON K0B 1R0  613.678.3256  suesquiltingstudio@bellnet.ca  facebook.com/pages/Sues-Quilting-Studio/ 101057286682381 Where Friends gather! Specialty fabrics, notions, courses & long arm quilting. Specialty wool & knitting supplies, Swedish weaving, bunka supplies in the Gingerbread Capital of Ontario, an hour from Montreal, Ottawa & Cornwall.

That Sewing Place 16610 Bayview Ave #10, Newmarket, ON L3X 1X3  905.715.7725  thatsewingplace.ca  jaret&liana@thatsewingplace.ca Introducing That Sewing Place as your sewing source and Authorized Dealers for Bernina and Brother machines. Jaret & Liana focus on placing your sewing needs first, providing outstanding support, service, and training.

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