Antognolla Magazine Spring/Summer 2024

Antognolla

BLENDING PAST PRESENT &

INSIDE SIX SENSES ROME WITH FRANCESCA TOZZI

HIDDEN CORNERS

CHOCOLATE IN PERUGIA

ELIZAVETA TERLETSKAYA

ON RESTORING THE TREASURES OF UMBRIA

PODERE COLLEPRATO

RESTORATION OF A DREAM FARMHOUSE

FACES OF ANTOGNOLLA

ROVENA GIORGI ON DESIGNING THE RESIDENCES AT ANTOGNOLLA

EXPLORE UMBRIA

OUR TOP 6 ARCHITECTURAL LANDMARKS

GROWING UP IN ANTOGNOLLA CASTLE

AN INTERVIEW WITH ERMANNO POLLA

WELCOME TO ANTOGNOLLA

5 What's New?

8 Antognolla Golf

PODERE COLLEPRATO

12 Restoration of a Dream Farmhouse

FACES OF ANTOGNOLLA

17 Rovena Giorgi on Designing the Residences at Antognolla

18 Elizaveta Terletskaya: Restoring the Treasures of Umbrian History

EXPLORE UMBRIA

20 The Umbria Itinerary: A Journey through History and Beauty

22 Our Top 6 Architectural Landmarks

HIDDEN CORNERS

24 The Chocolate Affairs of Umbria

MEET THE LOCALS

26 Ermanno Polla: Growing Up in Antognolla Castle

28 Turn On the Jazz, Signor Pagnotta

BLENDING PAST AND PRESENT

30 Inside Six Senses Rome with Francesca Tozzi

UNTIL NEXT TIME

32 Five Facts about Umbria

34 Enquiries

Umbrian Spaces

Welcome to the second edition of Antognolla Magazine, the biannual, bilingual Umbrian anteprima from us to you. We created content dedicated to architecture and design and strove to incorporate a sense of space, which is the theme of this edition.

We invite you to discover Antognolla and experience Umbria through the pages of our magazine. Learn about how Antognolla is restoring artefacts, and about the colours, collaboration, and spirit that went into designing the residences.

Explore an itinerary featuring must-visit spots and celebrations in the region, and learn about their significance. Find out how Umbria became known for jazz and chocolate. See how Six Senses Rome is preserving Rome’s cultural legacy. Discover what it was like to live in Antognolla Castle not so long ago.

Why Umbria?

Ask a wine connoisseur, and they will say that the climate is just right.

Ask an entrepreneur, and they will say that nature gives them space to think.

Ask a golfer, and they will say that the terrain makes for challenging golf courses.

Ask a historian, and they will say they’re searching for original Renaissance paintings.

Italy offers an unparalleled package of culture, history, cuisine, and beauty. The local authorities are even offering a helping hand with Italy’s flat tax rate for new tax residents. If you are considering coming to Italy and want to be at the centre of everything but away from the noise, the green heart of Italy awaits.

At Antognolla, you not only have access to outdoor experiences, historical sights, and an award-winning golf course, but you also become part of the future, with the development of the resort and restoration of the Castle under way. Rome and Florence can easily be reached from the property within approximately two hours.

Here you can have it all. But more than that, here you can live life to the fullest.

ANTOGNOLLA WELCOME

‘Visitors here will feel like royalty.’

— DESIGN STUDIO SPIN

RESORT DESIGN

For SPIN, the 22-year-old Japanese interior design studio, Antognolla is a first. SPIN primarily operates in the luxury market, having worked on a dazzling list of five- and six-star hotels globally. Although they are based in Japan, 60%–70% of their projects are international, and Antognolla marks their first project in Italy.

’Working around a highly sustainable design by Woods Bagot , the architectural firm building the resort, SPIN is designing a modern interior guided by Umbrian tradition.

Here is what SPIN has to say about the project: ‘People will continue to return, not only for the experience, but also because each room is different. This is precisely the charm of the property that will keep guests wanting to come back again and again. They want to know and discover even more. To feel everything, marvel, rejoice, and experience everything for themselves.’

What's New?

RESORT

Despite the over 900-year difference between them, the 12th-century Antognolla Castle and the 21st-century Main Building will stand together to create the Six Senses Antognolla resort, the first branded resort in the region. When the resort opens, the contemporary Main Building, designed by the British–Australian architectural bureau Woods Bagot and the Japanese interior design studio SPIN, will host guests looking for a contemporary edge to tradition, while the Castle will welcome those who value heritage in the modern age.

The Main Building will also house the reception and 40 suites which will have direct access to the spa. The spa, with an eclectic range of wellness and lifestyle experiences, is expected to become a destination in itself. The works for the Old Borgo, the Castle, the speciality restaurant, the golf reception, and more, will soon be under way. We are gradually revealing Antognolla’s exclusive offering. If you’d like to follow our progress, we invite you to sign up for our newsletter here

Surprise with a clink! Antognolla had its first harvest of Chardonnay last year, and the bottling of base sparkling wine is taking place this spring. Our very own Metodo Classico sparkling wine, aged 36 months, brought to you in collaboration with the world-renowned oenologist Riccardo Cotarella, will be ready for consumption in 2026. In 2026/2027 our guests will also be able to savour local Merlot from grapes which we are harvesting this year.

Pair wine with bread and olive oil, Italian staples blessed by the climate in Umbria, which is known as the ‘gold coast of Italy’. Olive oil at Antognolla has a story. The beautiful centenary olive trees were neglected, but we restored the plots and nurtured the soil to enable the olive trees to grow and produce again. Protecting Umbrian heritage is our mission. We’re fortunate enough to get to taste it too.

You can find Umbria’s ‘liquid gold’ at La Boiola, to take home or to taste on its own as an appetiser infused in our recipes, for which we have chef Filippo Amenduni to thank.

DINING

From our kitchen to yours

Chef Filippo Amenduni shares a recipe where olive oil is the main character:

Ravioli stuffed with liquid oil & garnished with olive powder

INGREDIENTS

- 300 g of fresh pasta dough

- 7 g of agar

- 160 g of water

- egg white

- butter

- 250 g of extra virgin olive oil

- salt flakes

FOR THE POWDER

- black olives

- sugar

- water

FOR THE FILLING

Bring the water with the agar inside to a boil, and once it has melted add the olive oil and remove from the heat. Whip the liquid in a mixer.

FOR THE OLIVE POWDER

Pit the olives, boil them in water and sugar for 5 minutes, spread them on a paper-lined baking tray and dry them in the oven for 3 hours at 80°C.

Next, roll the fresh pasta thin, cut it into squares, brush them with egg white and fill them with the filling, which will have solidified in the meantime, then close the pasta like you would normal ravioli. Boil the ravioli in salted water and sauté them in butter. Finally decorate them with olive powder.

Last year, tourism in Rome was transformed and a new Italy emerged: the Italy of golf. Rising from the legacy of the Ryder Cup, which took place in the country’s capital in September 2023, this new Italy is not a typical golf destination, but it certainly deserves a trophy for being the most beautiful one. Italy’s offering includes countless strolls through history, immersion in art, famous cuisine, breathtaking nature, and, now, fresh golf infrastructure.

But what do Italians themselves think about this development? Antognolla discovered that 35% of Italians and 70% of experienced Italian golfers believe that the number of golfers in Italy will grow within the next three to five years. These numbers are according to an opinion poll commissioned by Antognolla

Golf and conducted by Noto Sondaggi in light of the Ryder Cup. What’s more, the sixth annual Antognolla Open took place just one week before this legendary tournament, and the next Open will take place in the autumn of 2024.

We also hosted surprise visitors on our renovated 18-hole course, like Costantino Rocca, one of the most beloved Italian golfers and 1997 Ryder Cup winner. Join his Castle Conversations here. Find him on the course here

Follow Antognolla Golf on social media for more. As of September 2023, Antognolla Golf’s rich content is being brought to you in collaboration with P54, the global leader in sports advisory and strategy.

ANTOGNOLLA

GOLF IN THE NEWS: SELECTED FEATURES

Located in the ‘green heart of Italy’ and just two hours from Rome and Florence, Antognolla has become the country’s premiere golf destination. We are delighted to have inspired some thoughtful writing in the press.

Ryder Cup in Rome: How Italy is taking a swing at becoming Europe’s next top golfing destination (Euronews)

How The Antognolla Golf Course Is A Driver Between Golf And Fashion (Forbes) Italy is even better (and cheaper) in autumn – here’s where to go (The Telegraph)

When in Rome (Golf Digest)

Antognolla Golf Instagram

INSIDE GOLF ANTOGNOLLA through

ANTOGNOLLA GOLF

18 holes. 6,112 metres. A Robert Trent Jones Jr. design. Renovated, sustainable, challenging. Twice named ‘Italy’s Best Golf Course’ by the World Golf Awards (2020, 2022). Visit and play

THE ANTOGNOLLA GOLF MASCOT

Before you dive into your game, as you warm up on the putting green, you might be graced with a touch of elegance and majesty. Our charming Antognolla mascot, the peacock, could reveal itself in all its magnificence, unfurling its tail in a fan of vibrant colours. This local inhabitant often wanders around the clubhouse, looking to add a beautiful touch to the start of your round.

WHERE TO GET THE BEST VIEWS OF THE Castle ON THE COURSE:

HOLE 13

Visit the 13th hole and you may find yourself playing with Zeke Martinez, Head of the Golf Academy at Antognolla. ‘You’re sitting up on top of the tee and you’re looking all about the golf course. You can see the Castle in the background. It’s a very nice spot to be.’ Read more in Zeke’s interview

HOLE 10

‘Antognolla is home to one of the most scenic golf courses I have encountered in my career, but hole 10 stands out to me for its spectacular views of the Castle’, says César Burguière, Golf Director at Antognolla Golf. Get to know César and his vision for Antognolla Golf in our magazine’s first edition here

HOLE 18

Antognolla’s Golf Sales Manager, Laura Bortolato, knows how to balance skill and aesthetics. ‘If you’re looking for a challenge with a gorgeous backdrop, then you need to visit hole 18. You’ll find yourself surrounded by greens, a water hazard, and the Castle above. Good luck staying focused!’

PODERE COLLEPRATO:

Restoration of a dream farmhouse

We’re delighted to have completed restoration works on this dreamy farmhouse found secluded at the top of the estate overlooking the golf course. The main building has been divided into two self-contained apartments, along with a collection of outbuildings designed for the utmost flexible stays.

Take a peek at this page and the next to discover the beautiful corners and characteristics of Podere Colleprato, from the preserved stone archway to the cosy living area and theatrical kitchen, bedrooms flooded with natural light, and masterful bathrooms that feature iconic local tilework and indulgent free-standing tubs.

The exquisite interiors of Colleprato are what inspired the interiors of our Borgo Massarello residences, which are coming very soon. You’ll be able to read more about the themes and colours used in the design in our interview with A2Zen co-founder Rovena Giorgi in the next section of this edition.

Keep your eyes peeled later this year for a chance to stay at Colleprato and be among the first to experience life at Antognolla, where long summer days tumble into balmy evenings, and tired legs are eased around the fire after a day adventuring in the rural hills.

Keep your eyes peeled later this year for a chance to stay at Colleprato and be among the first to experience life at Antognolla, where long summer days tumble into balmy evenings, and tired legs are eased around the fire after a day adventuring

ROVENA GIORGI

On Designing The Residences At Antognolla

A2Zen is where ‘personal touch and extra attention make the difference’, says Rovena Giorgi, co-founder of the design firm.

Ms Giorgi founded A2Zen together with Massimo Paradisi in 2006, fusing her international upbringing and former career in asset portfolio management with Massimo’s experience working in his family’s Italian high-end furniture retail company.

Over the years, A2Zen has grown internationally but still maintains its Italian essence. Although it is a large, well-established firm with offices in Asia and Europe, A2Zen is not corporate; it has held on to its boutique style, blending the best of both worlds together. Now, A2Zen is bringing its extensive experience in high-end design and Italian character to Antognolla.

Ms Giorgi spoke with us about the inspiration and Umbrian spirit that went into designing the Antognolla residences. Read on for a glimpse of four walls made of wine, oil, and sun.

What came to mind when you first set foot in Antognolla?

It was a very long time ago, and I immediately fell in love with the energy, the tranquillity, and I hoped to work on the project. After so many years working overseas, we loved the opportunity to work on something so close to our heritage and to bring out the most traditional traits which would appeal to an international market.

What was the process of designing the residences like?

It was a long process, as we had to combine many aspects: the operator’s requirements, the client’s requirements, our vision, and the architect’s design. Our main inspiration came from the design of Podere Colleprato, a standalone farmhouse in the centre of the golf course. We then developed the design to suit the residences.

What makes the design you’ve created unique to Antognolla?

Everything for this project was designed bespoke. Even the proprietary pieces were customized to our requirements. We strived to maintain a sense of place at all times, and this can be found in the finishes we used, especially the white stone, the wrought-iron details, and the use of natural, textured wood. We juxtaposed the traditional elements with modern lines and contemporary comforts but always maintained traditional finishes such as linen fabrics and wool carpets to ground the design.

What Umbrian themes did you use in the design?

We focused on three main themes which are fundamental elements of the Umbrian rural landscape: wine, oil, and sun. Consequently, the colour accents fell on olive greens, shades of burgundy, and a touch of yellow.

How did you select collaborators?

We have worked with artisans from the region for a long time and were well acquainted with them. This was our added value as designers. We greatly enjoyed working with the local ceramics company Rometti to produce the unique bedside table lamps which we designed and which they skilfully handcrafted.

What are some items belonging to the Antognolla residences that cannot be found anywhere else?

We especially enjoyed designing the bespoke rugs to replicate the intricate Cotto patterns traditionally used for flooring or wall decorations.

What does sustainability mean to you?

Sustainability means supporting local small businesses as opposed to large multinationals. It means reducing our carbon footprint by sourcing locally produced materials. We achieved all of this with flying colours in our design of the residences.

Elizaveta Terletskaya

Restoring the Treasures of Umbrian History

faces of antognolla

A conversation with Elizaveta Terletskaya, Senior Design Manager at Antognolla

How challenging is it to transform a 12th-century castle into a modern high-end resort?

The ambitious project of transforming Antognolla Castle into a Six Senses resort, while preserving its historical heritage, is a task which demands immense creativity and precision. Leading this extraordinary endeavour is Elizaveta Terletskaya, Senior Design Manager at Antognolla.

‘In renovated historical buildings, it is especially challenging trying to fulfil all operational requirements while improving the state of the building and managing existing constraints. This delicate balance is key in preserving the historical essence of Antognolla Castle while ensuring it meets the contemporary standards of a luxury resort’, she says.

An architect by education and profession, Elizaveta has 15 years of international experience in premier hotels under her belt. As part of her responsibilities, she coordinates around 20 design consultants who are involved in the architectural and interior design and the engineering systems for the Antognolla project. When she was offered the opportunity to lead the Castle’s transformation, she took on the challenge with a blend of respect for history and a flair for modern luxury.

‘I have been working in hotel construction for many years, but it never ceases to amaze me how complex these buildings are. There is a space dedicated to the residential area, there are F&B facilities, swimming pools, conference rooms, and you need to know the specifics of each of these areas, from a Michelin-level kitchen to the yoga studios, and from saunas to gardens. The scale of Antognolla, taking into consideration the entire territory including the residences, the restoration part, new buildings, and vineyards, is immense, but at the same time it’s human and cosy.’

Elizaveta’s approach to high-end hotel design is encapsulated in her belief that ‘there are no unimportant details’, from the strategic placement of modern amenities like refrigerators to aesthetic choices like the colour of napkins in a restaurant. On top of that, she says that the challenge of melding the old with the new in a historical building is significant. The restoration of Antognolla is even more demanding because it involves not only structural refurbishment but also a deep reverence for the Castle’s past. ‘For any renovation work, we first study archives and old photographs in order to correctly recreate the historical visual.’

One of the noteworthy components of the restoration works is the chapel of Saint Agata. The Antognolla team is committed not only to restoring the chapel but also to retrieving its missing artefacts. ‘We are looking forward to bringing the church back to its former glory, and to once again making it a part of the local community. This is very important to us. Religion has historically played a big role in the life of Umbria, and we respect that.’

Elizaveta explains that when the current owner took over the property in 2013, most of the items that were present in the Castle and in the church in the 19th and 20th centuries had been lost. Now, the Antognolla team is on a mission to find them and place them back in their original location once the buildings are restored.

‘Now that we are doing restoration works throughout all the historical areas of the property, we are looking for any original items that once belonged to the site in order to preserve the authenticity of the place as it was…We have succeeded in tracking down two oil paintings and a table-mounted tabernacle from the church that were moved to a local convent in Canneto’, she says.

The oil paintings originally hung from the two sides of the main altar in the Saint Agata chapel. The one on the left was a depiction of Saint Elisabetta and Saint Giovannino (1), and the one on the right side depicted a Madonna with Jesus and Saint Giovannino (2). The tabernacle was situated at the altar and contained the consecrated Eucharist, which comprises an important part of the Christian sacred ceremony.

These items were removed from Antognolla, were then temporarily stored in a church in San Giovanni del Pantano, a nearby village, and were later transferred to a convent in Canneto in 1998. The paintings have been kept in a prayer room within the convent ever since. The artefacts are estimated to be 500–600 years old.

The Antognolla team is now searching for the second group of artefacts, which are believed to be stored in a museum in Perugia. ‘Of course, we hope to return these items to Antognolla. We would like to restore everything as much as possible to its original state. We already have a restoration project for the chapel, including the reinstating of its original flooring, benches, the choir balcony, the altars…’

Elizaveta says that, once completed, the chapel will be open to the public and will become a beautiful destination for wedding ceremonies. Thanks to Elizaveta, the Antognolla team, and its owners, the history of Antognolla continues.

Photos:‘Antognolla.Storiaearchitettura’by ErmannoPolla–GrifoPerugia,2001.

View of church from the choir above the entrance

(1)

EXPLORE UMBRIA

The Umbria Itinerary: a Journey through History and Beauty

By Paolo Sperini, art historian and tour guide in Umbria

In Umbria, time seems to stand still, and you need to travel only a few kilometres to find yourself in places where you can truly savour history. Ancient festivals are celebrated in charming villages where rituals have been repeated for centuries, and where a momentary glance is enough to realise that you’re exploring unique places.

One of these places is Gubbio, which is home to one of the best-preserved historical centres in Europe, where one of the oldest religious festivals in the world – La Corsa dei Ceri – takes place in the town centre every year on 15 May. The festival features teams that carry three 10-metre-high wooden structures topped with statues of saints. The teams hoist the structures onto ceraioli (candles) and then run uphill through the streets of Gubbio to the Basilica of Saint Ubaldo. The event dates back to the 12th century and is dedicated to the patron saint of the city, Saint Ubaldo.

In addition to being known for the festival, Gubbio features several ingenious engineering solutions, such as its iconic hanging square, home to the beautiful Palazzo dei Consoli, one of the most interesting examples of civil architecture in central Italy.

The holy traveller Saint Francis also passed through the city, coming from the not-too-distant Assisi, another hamlet symbolic of the Umbrian Middle Ages. Assisi gave birth not only to Saint Francis but also to Italian painting. The Florentine painter Giotto, who, together with other great masters, decorated the Basilica of Saint Francis, introduced one of the first examples of pictorial perspective into art. Here, art and spirituality complement each other perfectly.

Inspired by this harmony, the citizens of Assisi initiated the Calendimaggio festival in 1927. Calendimaggio is a traditional folk festival that celebrates the return of spring and the renewal of the cycle of life. The festival consists of historical re-enactments of medieval life, representations of trades, floats, and musical challenges that in the end are judged by a jury of renowned experts in the field.

If you are in the area from 12 to 22 July, take a trip to Perugia, which has been hosting Europe’s most important jazz festival, Umbria Jazz, for the past fifty years. It is an iconic open-air festival where you can hear some of the most prominent figures in jazz history as well as special guests, like Lenny Kravitz, who will perform at the festival in 2024.

Amidst the musical notes that fill the streets and squares, you’ll be visiting a city with seven museums and more than 2,000 years of history, where all eras are clearly visible. Don’t miss the underground passages of the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, where, descending 25 metres, you can travel through history from the time of the Etruscans, through the Roman period and back to the Middle Ages, when Perugia was a papal residence.

If you prefer classical music, opera, or ballet, we have the perfect solution: Spoleto’s Festival dei due Mondi. Since 1958, visitors have been enjoying high-level performances in a refined and lively atmosphere at various locations around this dynamic city. Among Spoleto’s squares, theatres, and gardens, you can enjoy a rich programme immersed in beauty.

The centre of Spoleto is the Duomo, with its Romanesque façade of rare beauty and an interior rich in priceless paintings by great Renaissance masters such as the Florentine Filippo Lippi and Pinturicchio, the favourite painter of Pope Alexander VI. Not to be missed is the architectural jewel of the city, the Bridge of Towers, which unites the landscape with the urban context in an extraordinary way.

An obligatory stop along your journey is the town of Spello and its annual magical feast of Corpus Christi, when the charming streets of the city are covered with flowers for the so-called infiorate. The feast will take place this year on 2 June, when around two kilometres of streets and alleyways will be covered with a floral carpet made from the petals of more than 70 different types of flowers. The effect is incredible but brief, lasting only until the religious procession passes by a few hours later.

With its pink stone and ridge-top location, Spello offers travellers picturesque views and a magical atmosphere. The town’s most important artistic masterpiece is the Baglioni Chapel in the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, painted during the Renaissance by Pinturicchio.

When it comes to the Renaissance, we can’t forget Pietro di Cristoforo Vannucci, known as ‘Perugino’. The most important Umbrian master between the late 15th and the early 16th centuries, Perugino undertook a number of famous projects, including painting frescoes on the walls of the Sistine Chapel. For this reason, we recommend a visit to his birthplace, Città della Pieve, a village distinguished by its red colour, produced by the use of red brick.

In the small oratory of Santa Maria dei Bianchi, Perugino left one of his most iconic masterpieces, the Adoration of the Magi (painted in 1504). This large fresco occupies the entire back wall, enabling viewers to fully appreciate the undisputed skill of this great painter.

The best time to visit the village is during the Palio dei Terzieri, a 10day period of historical remembrance, established in the 1960s, that usually takes place in the second half of August (this year’s dates have not yet been released, but they should be 9–18 August). The whole village, including its inhabitants, take a dip into the past, returning to the time of Perugino. During the event, one can savour typical traditional dishes in the historical taverns and enjoy various shows, including a beautiful parade. Everything ends with an enthralling challenge between the three terzieri (quarters), where, armed with bows and arrows, participants must try to hit the moving silhouettes of Chianina bulls.

Photos: umbriatourism.it

ChiesadiSanMicheleArcangelo,Perugia

Duomo, Spoleto

Spello

Corsa dei Ceri, Gubbio

Storie della Vergine, part. Cappella 1424, Foligno, Palazzo Trinci. (Photo: ComunediFoligno–ServizioMusei)

architectural our top landmarks 6

LA SCARZUOLA IN MONTEGABBIONE

The 20th-century architect Tomaso Buzzi’s highly original architectural complex with fantasy-like features, disproportionate stairways, and tunnels, which leaves an everlasting impression on visitors.

Photos:@lascarzuola

DUOMO OF ORVIETO IN ORVIETO

A 14th-century Gothic cathedral dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. The façade of the cathedral is decorated with vibrant frescoes, mosaics, sculptures, and bronze elements.

Photos:Unsplash.com

VILLA OF MOSAICS IN SPELLO

One of the most extraordinary archaeological discoveries in Umbria, with nearly 500 square metres of recovered mosaic tiles which include geometric decorations, drawings of wild animals and mythical creatures, human figures, and scenes of ancient everyday life.

Photo:VillaDeiMosaicidiSpello

PALAZZO DEI PRIORI IN PERUGIA

A Gothic town hall which now houses the National Gallery of Umbria, an art gallery of international renown with a collection of paintings and sculptures from the 13th to 19th centuries. Read about the gallery’s 2023 dedication to the Italian Renaissance painter Pietro Perugino in our first edition here

©GalleriaNazionaledell’Umbria.PhotocreditsMarcoGiugliarelli

The former residence of the Trinci, a ruling family active from 1305 to 1439, which currently unites several museums and an art gallery under its roof.

Photos:ComunediFoligno–ServizioMusei

BASILICA OF SAN FRANCESCO (SAINT FRANCIS) IN ASSISI

A Gothic masterpiece with a Lombardic touch, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Learn more about the Basilica in our magazine’s first edition here

Photo: umbriatourism.it

Ottaviano Nelli da Gubbio, Cappella

PALAZZO TRINCI IN FOLIGNO

Dear reader,

If you’ve already visited Umbria, you’ll know that it is one of the most exquisite and unconventional travel destinations for architecture enthusiasts. We hope you enjoy exploring our six favourite architectural wonders and must-visit landmarks of this enchanting region.

In Umbria, you will find a blend of medieval, Romanesque, and Renaissance architecture. The region’s architectural heritage covers every historical era to the present day: from the practical approach of the Etruscan period to the religious symbolism of the Middle Ages, from which a sophisticated contemporary style was born.

See you in Umbria, the meeting point of art, history, and architecture.

Warm regards, Antognolla

HIDDEN CORNERS

The Chocolate Affairs of Umbria

hen Mr Giordano Mangano first entered his father’s small chocolate atelier in Perugia more than 20 years ago, he knew nothing about chocolate production. It was Giacomo, his father, who passed on all the secrets to making chocolate the way it was traditionally produced in the past: crafting each piece one by one to create a uniquely perfect product. Now, Mr Mangano is heir to the Augusta Perusia chocolate shops, which began with the atelier created by his father.

‘Working as a chocolatier doesn’t have a single aspect that stands out as the most or least favourite. I would say, it is not really a job, it is more of a lifestyle. That is why not everyone can or wants to do it, because it means marrying your work. I have been married to chocolate since I was little’, he says with a smile.

In Perugia, chocolate is more than a sweet treat; it is a cultural emblem, a historical legacy, and a living art form. It all began in the early 1900s with the birth of a very small confectionery workshop in the old town centre in Via Alessi (Alessi Street) and a recipe by Luisa Spagnoli. Later, with the arrival of the entrepreneur Giovanni Buitoni, this small shop became one of the largest chocolate factories in the world – Perugina. The chocolate’s popularity brought ‘chocolate fame’ to the city of Perugia and gave rise to numerous other chocolate houses in the city.

Mr Mangano says it’s not a coincidence that his father worked at Perugina’s research and development laboratory for 20 years before founding Augusta Perusia. There, in the workshops of the factory that made Perugia and its chocolate famous all over the world, he learnt the techniques and secrets of artisanal chocolate production.

Mr Mangano’s approach to creating new flavours and designs is organic, driven by life’s ebbs and flows. In his craft, Mr Mangano employs meticulous artistry, prioritising perfection in every piece of chocolate. ‘There are no particular craft techniques. Rather, it is more of a specific process, like making chocolates with an individual mould one by one to achieve perfection, or liqueur chocolates – a process that takes two days’, he explains.

The chocolate-making process is difficult to describe in words, says Mr Mangano, but Augusta Perusia offers its guests the opportunity to view artisans at work at its open-view atelier in Via Piccolpasso. What’s more, the chocolatier collaborates with local producers, infusing regional specialities like extra virgin olive oil or Sagrantino Passito wine into his creations.

Another prominent event that further enhanced Umbria’s ‘chocolate’ reputation is Eurochocolate, the famous international chocolate festival that has been held in Perugia for 30 years.

Inspired by Munich’s Oktoberfest, Eugenio Guarducci envisioned a festival celebrating Perugia’s chocolate heritage. His dream materialised on 23 October 1994. The festival, initially a tribute to the city’s chocolate legacy, has evolved into a beacon attracting millions of chocolate lovers worldwide every year. It’s more than a festival; it’s a testament to Perugia’s enduring love affair with chocolate.

Thirty years later, Mr Guarducci, the President of Eurochocolate, speaks to Antognolla Magazine about his vision for the future of chocolate in Umbria.

Chocolatier – ‘it is not really a job, it is more of a lifestyle’.

— GIORDANO MANGANO

‘Eurochocolate contributes significantly to increasing tourism, not only in Perugia but in Umbria in general. Furthermore, it has encouraged the creation of new companies in the chocolate sector to the point that we can now speak of a real chocolate district’, he says.

Mr Guarducci emphasises that tourists are ‘looking for engaging, surprising or exclusive experiences that our wonderful region can certainly offer’.

Looking forward, Mr Guarducci envisions a permanent chocolate city in Perugia, further cementing its status as a global chocolate hub. ‘While we are planning the 30th edition of Eurochocolate, the project that I have been cultivating for years, a permanent chocolate city in the historical centre of Perugia is also taking shape.’

‘Let’s say that 2024 will be a year in which the sweetness of Umbria will be enriched with delicious and unmissable surprises’, he concludes. The chocolate world of Perugia awaits, eager to be relished.

Mr Guarducci, founder of Eurochocolate (PhotobyEurochocolate)

Photos:AugustaPerusiaChocolate

What initially drew you to the study of medieval architecture?

As a child, I was interested in astronomy and space travel; however, my passion took me to Rome to study architecture. The Castle of Antognolla was an important training centre. It was an inspiration for my curiosity; it pushed me to investigate the past, to enter the architectural subject. The Castle and its towers – but, above all, its roofs – became a rare observation point of reality. The human being produces, creates, invents for those who come after. An architect can highlight aspects that are not easily perceptible at first glance.

What was it like living in Antognolla Castle?

Living in a castle was something I had only seen in movies. When my father told us that we were to go live in a real castle in Umbria, I felt a wave of emotion. The fact that it was a castle that we were going to helped me overcome the fear of abandoning the sea near Rimini, where we had been living. I still remember the first time I saw it: from the car, surrounded by trees, I saw the valley, the village, and the castle appear, which from afar seemed even more imposing.

I felt like someone of importance living in the Castle. My room was the most beautiful room: encircled by frescoes with floral sculptural motifs where blue, orange, and white dominated. In the centre of the room there was a loggia with a painting of Cupid holding a mirror. It was a pavilion vault with four lunettes. The room was called the Bishop’s room.

What are some features of the Castle that stand out in your memory?

A castle like Antognolla allows the mind to travel, imagining all those who had adventured throughout the centuries. I experienced the entire Castle, its every corner, its dark areas

Interview with Ermanno Polla

‘It was my forge, my laboratory, the object of a visceral interest. I felt that those walls were one with me, they were the extension of my body.’

— ERMANNO POLLA

and in the corner there was armour from the 16th century that inspired a certain fear and awe. In that room, in my mind, I experienced duels and conquests. I felt like Ruggero d’Antognolla, remembered for his courage and willpower.

You are an architect but also a painter. How did this come about?

The wall on one of the sides of the courtyard had a niche in which there was nothing. The urge to do something was strong: I couldn’t sculpt but I could draw. I was a self-taught painter, and observation was my guide. I found fundamental ideas for my future paintings during my walks around the Castle. Everything around me was colour. I have always tried to capture in my canvases that ‘fleeting moment’ made of bright and changing colours that accompanied me even in my dreams. I painted the Castle from every angle, almost always surrounded by the silver flush of the olive trees.

In your study Sul Castello Di Antognolla lived near the Castle. How do you see the relationship between the individual architectural structures and their surrounding communities?

I looked with curiosity at the people who lived in the village, with their carts pulled by white oxen, and at the children who soon became my playmates. It was a helpful and united community. In October the whole area came alive for the harvest, and the sweet smell of must inebriated the entire valley. Wagons full of grapes would drive up to the cellar in the churchyard. And we, the children, ran to steal the goods.

Around the well, in the courtyard, there was a cavity which was used as a place to hide food: a precious asset during the war. The well also served as a natural refrigerator for drinks, cooling them on hot Umbrian summer days. The church, as a physical and spir itual meeting place, is what made Antognolla not only a village but also a community. It hosted religious functions on public holidays, particularly in the summer, where all the people from the surrounding area gathered. After Mass we all greeted each other and exchanged comments on the week’s news. Easter was also a special holiday. According to Umbrian tradition, baskets containing eggs, wine, capocollo, and other foods, along with Easter cakes made with cheese were brought to the church to be blessed, and their contents were then consumed on the day of the feast.

From the top of the highest tower of the Castle, together with some friends, we experi enced our first solar eclipse – an unforgettable event that would not have been possible in the absence of such an architectural structure.

What does it mean to be ‘Umbrian’?

The land of my ancestors was Piedmont, and I was born in a hill town, Brusnengo, surrounded by the greenery of vineyards and orchards. I arrived in Umbria at age 12, and felt welcomed by this land, rich in history. I became Umbrian by choice. This is where I got married and where my children spent their summers, carefree. Choosing life, beauty, and nature, that’s what makes Umbria, and that’s what makes me Umbrian.

TURN JAZZ ON THE Signor Pagnotta

magine chasing the nostalgic sound of a faraway saxophone in the narrow medieval alleys of Perugia. Or perhaps you prefer the image of tapping your feet to the beat of a drum, on a summer terrace, while the sun sets. The soundtrack that is sure to make you look back at your time in Umbria with longing is brought to you by one of Europe’s most famous jazz festivals. ‘I chose to dedicate the festival to jazz because I have always been a great jazz fan’, says Carlo Pagnotta, founder of Umbria Jazz.

Mr Pagnotta founded Umbria Jazz in his native region in 1973 after years of experience organising jazz concerts and frequenting music festivals in Italy and abroad. Since then, the festival has staged performances by icons such as Miles Davis, Quincy Jones, Liza Minnelli, Tony Bennett, Lady Gaga, and more, and has partnered with renowned Italian and global institutions to cultivate the next generation of jazz legends.

But jazz wasn’t always welcome in Italy. ‘Jazz was born in the southern states of the US’, says Mr Pagnotta. ‘It arrived relatively late to Italy because, starting from the 1930s, the Fascist regime developed a growing aversion to this musical genre and forbade it.’

Fortunately, it turns out that jazz conforms neither to the classical 4/4 beat nor to any laws. Umbria was once an unlikely destination for syncopated rhythms and saxophones, but now the region has become a hotspot for thousands of jazz fans around the world. Part of the appeal is the festival’s unique fusion of music, history, and architecture because of where the concerts are held.

‘Umbria, known as the “green heart” of Italy, is a small region with stupendous locations, and it was easy to find spaces for the events. In the 1980s, Umbria Jazz abandoned the itinerant idea and, since then, has established itself in Perugia, taking place over a period of 10 days in July. In 1993, the winter festival began in Orvieto, and this year, in fact, we celebrated 30 years of Umbria Jazz Winter’, Mr Pagnotta explains.

In the summer, concerts are held outdoors near some of Perugia’s most beautiful sights, like the Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi. Umbria Jazz Winter in Orvieto has taken place at locations like the gothic-style Palazzo del Popolo and the Orvieto Cathedral, where rich acoustics meet architectural masterpieces.

‘With its 50 years of history, Umbria Jazz is among the oldest and most important festivals in the world, and we are very proud of this. This is thanks to all those who, over the years, have contributed to the success of the event. Umbria Jazz has an exceptional team, and I foresee a great future for the festival, with the Umbria region at the head to support it.’

The 2024 Umbria Jazz festival will take place from 12 to 21 July. Visit the website to book your tickets.

Pictured(lefttoright):ChickCorea,CarloPagnotta,HerbieHancock PhotosprovidedbyUmbriaJazz

Blending Past and Present:

Inside Six Senses Rome with Francesca Tozzi

As you step into Six Senses Rome, set within the storied walls of the Palazzo Salviati Cesi Mellini, you find yourself enveloped in an atmosphere where the history of Rome seamlessly blends with the contemporary design of Patricia Urquiola. Located within the UNESCO historic area of Rome and protected by the local municipality, the Palazzo stands as a striking testament to the Eternal City ’s architectural magnificence. Every corner of the hotel tells a story, inviting guests to immerse themselves in an authentic Roman experience with a 21st-century interpretation.

With over 20 years working in luxury hospitality from Italy to New York and back, Francesca Tozzi returned to her hometown, Rome, in 2021 in her position as General Manager of Six Senses Rome. The hotel opened in March 2023 and became the first Six Senses urban hotel in Italy. In a conversation with Antognolla Magazine, Francesca describes how classical elements blend in harmony with the contemporary, sustainable design of the hotel.

Francesca says the hotel’s design is deeply rooted in Roman classicism and the city’s history.

‘Patricia Urquiola chose materials, colours and details that speak of Rome, its historical heritage, Roman classicism, and the original architecture guided the whole concept. The materials used in the design are representative of the city, starting with Italian local stones such as travertine and cipollino marble.’

Our tour begins in the ground floor lobby of Six Senses Rome. Here, the Italian travertine flooring immediately catches the eye, highlighting a strong link with the city’s original architecture. The reception area is a modern marvel with a glass wall adorned with digital screen printing that pays homage to the frescoes of Villa Livia. This is an ideal spot for anyone who wants to admire how cutting-edge technology can breathe life back into culture and history.

(PhotosofSixSensesRomebyJohnAthimarithisPhotography)

Six Senses Rome

Next, we venture into the spa, a serene sanctuary that artfully incorporates the myth of Apollo and Daphne into the design. In the myth, Eros strikes Apollo with an arrow, and he immediately falls in love with the nymph Daphne. Daphne, however, rejects Apollo. He eventually catches her, but having asked nature for protection, she turns into a laurel, escaping him. Francesca adds: ‘This parallelism with mythology is a poetic reading linked to the theme of well-being and the relationship with nature, especially with water.’

As we move through the rooms and suites, the sustainable design philosophy becomes evident, with walls made with the ancient Roman technique of cocciopesto, using brick powder and natural clays.

‘This material was chosen by Patricia Urquiola not only because it is extremely durable but also because it is sustainable, as it is made from brick waste. The floors of the wet area of the spa are made with inserts of cipollino marble chips. This material is obtained by combining larger marble cut-offs with cement and natural oxides. Moreover, travertine, the local stone of Rome, becomes a significant design element throughout all spaces’, Francesca says.

In the bedrooms, the use of travertine in opus incertum blocks reflects a mindful approach to resource utilisation, minimising material waste in line with Six Senses’ strong sustainability values. The interior carpets are made from natural or regenerated wool, the Roman Empire’s fabric of choice.

Our final stop is at the San Marcello Al Corso Church, located right outside the hotel. To preserve Rome’s cultural legacy and support the local community, Six Senses Rome decided to renovate the façade of the church.

‘The San Marcello Al Corso Church is our next-door neighbour, and we are blessed to have such a historical site at our doorstep. Six Senses Rome sponsored the restoration works on the church’s façade in an ongoing effort to support the preservation of Rome’s priceless cultural legacy’, she concludes. The history of the church can be explored through one of the hotel’s cultural experiences.

As the saying goes, when in Rome do as the Romans do. Six Senses Rome did just that, keeping its architectural design sustainable, practical, elegant, and, of course, timeless.

(PhotoofFrancescaTozzi takenbyStefanoScatà)

five umbria

it FACTS about

1. Favourable taxes

Umbria is one of the few regions that benefit from Italy’s 7% flat tax on foreign income for retirees. Additionally, Italy is known for its flat tax rate for HNWIs and UHNWIs who wish to become tax residents and live la dolce vita

2. Local pasta

Umbricelli is Umbria’s traditional pasta. It is as long as spaghetti but thicker and is considered to date back centuries, originating in the ancient towns of Spoleto and Foligno. It is made using only water, flour, and oil, and has historically been linked to peasant traditions. Today, it is prepared throughout Umbria, in local homes and Italian tavernas as well as Michelin restaurants.

Photo:

Photo:umbriatourism

4. Ancient peoples

The Umbrians are considered to be among the most ancient Italians. In ancient Greek ombros refers to heavy rains, and Umbrians got their name from thriving despite them. Thankfully, rain showers in Umbria today are more romantic than they are heavy!

3. The birthplace of Saint Valentine

Saint Valentine is the patron saint of Terni, known as ‘the City of Love’. Terni, located about an hour’s drive from Antognolla, is considered to be the birthplace of Saint Valentine, who lends his name to Valentine’s Day, the holiday celebrated around the world on 14 February.

5 Umbria has an aerospace industry

Although it is best known for its nature and medieval villages, Umbria is also an industrial centre. It is home to an aerospace cluster consisting of 28 industrial partners, including the University of Perugia. Aeronautics, space and engineering may not be the first things that come to mind when you’re hiking in lush Antognolla, but Umbria is full of surprises and unexpected spaces – on Earth at least!

Photo: umbriatourism.it

Photo:Valerio Clementi

Photo:umbriatourism.it

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