APJ Vol 20 2014

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2014

Autumn Issue Volume 20.

AESTHETICS

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

PRACTITIONERS Journal

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The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ISSN: 1836-9812

Autumn Issue Volume 20. 2014

Returning what time has taken away Discover the power of hydrodynamics through the

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Hyaluronic acid + Aquaporin activator ㈵

Proven results:

90% improved in wrinkles caused by dehydration 100% ultramoisturising in one session Continuous hydration that lasts 24 hours


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INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS

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58-59 78-81 88-89 90-91

CEO’s Heart-2-Heart Report How to set your “Business Nets” to capture new clients and achieve Higher Business Yield in 2014 Member Profile Aesthetic Industry Bulletin Product Innovations HairPort 1 – The Evolution of a Business

REGULATIONS, EDUCATION AND TRAINING

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Are you ready for the new Degree Qualification in Clinical Aesthetics? 32-33 Mastering the Art of Eyelash Extension 40-43 Stratum Corneum – The futuristic Battleground for ingredient application 108-109 The power of your Informed Consent Form in protecting your practice 120-121 Bullying – The New Law

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 34-35 44-45 54 68-70 100-102 103-105 106-107 110-113 116-118

The new Era of Multi-Functionality reshaping the cosmetic world The ritual and purpose of Skin Cleansing The new advances in Radiofrequency for Skin Tightening and Body Shaping Early Research shows link between Probiotics and clear skin The Healing benefits of Birch Bark Scientific News Carrots and their role in skin and body health Looking at the verdict on Milk New Research findings on the benefits of Avocado

BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 16-17

The role of the Profit Maximising Specialist in Business Development and Growth 18 Taking the stress out of employing staff through correct Employee Record Keeping 20-21 The New Crowing Glory of Communication – Content Marketing 24 Ask the Expert 48-49 From Strength to Strength 66-67 Are you ready to Evolve your Business? 82-86 Business News 92-93 Are you planning to Hire New Staff? 94-95 Etiquette and your Competitive Advantage 96-98 Reaching your sales targets with ease 114-115 Is Your Computer Safe From Attacks?

SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES ㄰

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APAN

AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE

2014

31 50-52 60-64 72-76 123

APAN Australian Aesthetic Conference, WA Speaker Program APAN Australian Aesthetic Conference, Perth WA Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference Another successful APAN Aesthetics Conference (Gold Coast) What's new in the Business of Beauty – A Report on Cosmoprof Asia 2013 APAN Australian Aesthetics Conference 2014

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Happy, Productive Staff are the Backbone of a SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS Let us help you find them CTITIO NE PRA and keep them S

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EDITOR’SNOTE

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Welcome to the first issue of APJ for 2014. This is a new year with new dreams and expectations, so plan to achieve your goals and don't allow past discouragements to rob you of your enthusiasm for great thing to be achieved this year – set yourself up for success and start with a determined attitude.

This year I am implementing a gratitude diary. Each morning I take a few minutes to reflect on what I can be grateful for and prepare myself for a positive day.

While the world will always have something to moan about, I choose to look to the good news that I can hope to add to through my efforts and commitment to be a catalyst for positive change for those I come in contact with and also for my own life. Indeed, while there is a mixed bag of positives and negatives when it comes to the economy, I believe the Federal Government is doing its best to get the budget into surplus, meanwhile our industry can be dependent on to cheer up consumers with our offerings. Technology has given us some amazing advancements that will allow us to offer even better services than ever before. Last week I tried a RadioFrequency facial treatment as well as my first ultrasonic cavitation with RF for body contouring and I can tell you first-hand, I saw results that I have been able to sustain with just one treatment. This is one technology I will definitely invest in. To encourage you to do the same, in this issue of APJ we feature several technologies, and for those who believe that the natural approach is the best option, most of these technologies have been used for healing purposes. What they now offer us is a wonderful array of tools to achieve amazing results. There are several great business articles, as well a great article from Terry Everitt on the epidermis from a more scientific perspective. I found this article very exciting as it offered a glimpse of things to come. We are entering an exciting era of higher education that will open up to us new possibilities and indeed bring a new level of professional excellence and intelligence to our industry. When it comes to expos and conferences Terry has also submitted his observations on last year's Cosmoprof Asia, which pretty much supported my observations of changes in global trends. Tarnya Grice presented an excellent report on the 9th National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference that was held in Sydney in November last year with some interesting information. This year APAN is staging three exciting Conference programs. Our first one will be in Perth, Western Australia on the 25th May. We have some great topics and amazing speakers, so if you can attend this event please plan to be there, we would love to catch up with you. Otherwise check out details about our other two events in Sydney and Hobart.

http://www.facebook.com/APAN.page

Tina Viney, Editor info@apanetwork.com

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APAN Website: http://www.apanetwork.com APAN Office Email: info@apanetwork.com

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May this year be a great success for you and I trust you will choose to allow us to be part of your most trusted support structure.

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Editor

Welcome to APJ

Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com

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Typesetting & Graphics

Mark Viney Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@apanetwork.com

Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Design & Production Artwork and Editorial Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd 8 Parkdale Court Robina Q 4226 Phone: 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@kharis.com

Printed for Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169

Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia

Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt – Education features Wendy Neely – PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose – Scientific content Caroline Nelson – Business Features

National Advisory Council ㄰ 㤵 㜵

John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa

ISSN: 1836-981 ㈵

Print Post Approved [100000257]

Circulation 6900

FRONT COVER Vogue Image Group 1800 544 545 | 03 9821 0033 Email: info@vogueimage.com.au See pages 12-15 for further details. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

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The CEO’s Heart-2-Heart REPORT

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I am not a teacher, but an awakener. ― Robert Frost Dear colleagues and friends When I saw this quote it immediately resonated with me and my position in the industry. I have spent 17 year as a beauty therapy lecturer in the past and during that time while I loved imparting my knowledge to the students, more then anything I wanted to leave an impression on them that would change their lives and go far beyond the one year they spent with me. Indeed, I am a strong believer that for knowledge to transform someone it must touch their heart where they can take the information and make it their own. The acquisition of knowledge should give us more than the ability to pass our exams, it should also transform us as individuals. Today, my main communication platform is either this journal, my blogs and social media tools as well as my daily consultations with members with whom I speak over the phone, helping them overcome and solve their problems. I also speak at our APAN conferences, but I no longer teach, so hopefully through these splashes of communication I may awaken in you something that will ignite your own passion about where you are now and where you want to be, and hopeful help you identify the tools that will get you there.

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Recently I become aware of the statement Carpe Diem and was intrigued by its relevance to life and our profession. For those who are not familiar with the term 'Carpe diem' is a Latin expression that means 'seize the day'. However, the more pedantic Latin scholars translate 'Carpe' literally as 'pluck', with particular reference to the picking of fruit, so a more accurate rendition is 'enjoy the day, pluck the day when it is ripe'. For me Carpe Diem suggests that life will always present us with moments that are pregnant with opportunity, ripe and ready for the picking. What is needed is for us not to

be so laden down with pressure that we fail to identify valuable opportunities that can change our lives. Some of the best opportunities we miss are those that are designed to help challenge our thinking and transform us into more vibrant, enthusiastic and optimistic individuals, because only in such a positive state of mind can innovative ideas come to light that are truly uniquely our own. These environments are usually either found at conferences or through formal education, both of which I strongly support. Sometimes you just have to stop procrastinating and seize the moment. I hope that you take such steps this year and decide to invest in dynamic environments that will equip you with new knowledge and information and give you the fortitude to pave the way for a better tomorrow. I invite you to include in that list your attendance to one of our APAN Australian Aesthetic Conferences.

This year we are staging them in three locations, so why not attend the one closest to you: PERTH: Sunday May 25th SYDNEY: Monday August 25th HOBART: Sunday October 26th Every State has its own unique program. This allows you to attend more than one event if you wish as the seminars presented at each location will be different. What we do promise is that at each of these events you will gain valuable and life-transforming information.

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THE APAN POLICY ON WAGES HELPING YOU MINIMISE YOUR STRESS I want to cover another important matter that concerns me and that is the issue of industrial relations.

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PLEASE don't take the risk of not getting it right by just seeking verbal advice, the risk is not worth it.

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IPL AND LASER REGULATIONS

Running a business can be difficult and we want to ensure that all businesses can operate with the minimum amount of stress. Our analysis has identified businesses that predominantly struggle with getting their wage rates correct as well as dealing with industrial relations issues with their staff. At this point I want to clarify APAN's position on the matter and explain why we have this policy. As an organisation we recognise that often stress is as a result of getting the wrong information, particularly when it comes to wages. Getting it near enough is not good enough. While your employees may not notice at first, in the event of a grievance the number one issue that arises is “Have I been paid correctly?”

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It is alarming to note that several times members who have sought advice from other bodies have sometimes been given the wrong rates, this is possibly because they did not provide the organisation with sufficient details to determine the correct answer. We don't want this to happen to you as we recognise that errors can happen. For this reason APAN's policy is that all wages and industrial relations issues are addressed by a law firm that specialises in industrial relations issues and business law. Because we recongise how easy it is to make a mistake we only offer legal advice and that is given to you in writing from a specialist lawyer. The standard turnaround time that you will get your response is usually between 12 to 24 hours. In that way we can ensure our members are getting the best professional support possible and the maximum accuracy.

At this point I wish to report that currently as part of the Working Group with ARPANSA we are preparing information for the drafting of the Regulatory Impact Statement for the development of regulations for the use of IPL and Lasers. This work is currently under way and it is anticipated that it will finalised by 2015. As national regulations will soon be introduced it is imperative that all practitioners review their qualifications and consider upgrading them to ensure they can meet the minimum qualification requirements, as legislation will definitely include the need for formal qualifications.

Currently Service Skills Australian is looking at introducing over 19 new units to address the current changes in the industry, including IPL and laser qualifications. Additionally, formal qualifications are available through all the colleges featured in this journal, so we encourage you to explore your options and invest in this area. As an organisation, APAN is committed to defending the future of the industry in specific ways through actively engaging in working groups, advocacy and lobbying on behalf of the industry. We are very committed to such matters as we recognise that the industry needs a voice at such levels. As a result, a certain percentage of membership fees go towards such activities. At this point in time I would like to thank all those who have invested financially in their APAN membership and acknowledge my appreciation for your trust and support. On our part, I confirm that APAN is highly committed to your success at every level possible. If you are not a member of APAN and would like to join our community of practice, or for further information, please email me on info@apanetwork.com or phone 07 5593 0360. We would be delighted to listen to your needs and look at ways to help you succeed in your profession and your business. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Tina Viney Chief Executive Officer

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Luca Mora is quietly-spoken, but a passionately committed director and trainer of two powerful innovative brands in cosmeceutical skincare and equipment. These world-leading names are instantly recognisable, SKEYNDOR and SORISA. Mora's knowledge of both ingredient science and treatment protocols for leading results is unparalleled. She is very much a researcher of ingredient information as well as a hands-on practitioner/trainer with many years of industry experience, and she has no hesitation in freely sharing this knowledge to all she trains.

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Now launching the advanced Power Hyaluronic, APJ caught up with Luca for a very personal interview on her insight, knowledge and expertise of industry developments and the effective use of products.

The launch of the new Returning what time has taken away APJ Q1. Luca, you have extensive knowledge and experience as a therapist and trainer in results-oriented procedures and technology. What is so exciting about the new Power Hyaluronic formulation and how is it more advanced than previous formulations? Luca: Power Hyaluronic is a completely unique formula that differs from anything on the market today. Generally speaking, companies use High Molecular Weight or Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid, but Skeyndor Power Hyaluronic uses both. Additionally PH has encapsulated magnetised water that reaches below the surface of the skin, normally water molecules cannot achieve this. Skeyndor’s technology opens the aquapores to allow the water into the cells and will achieve sustained hydration within the skin and a specific molecular size to achieve the objective: ! VLMW HA (very low molecular weight) is the only size HA that can penetrate to the dermis. This is where the main skin reservoir of HA is found. VLMW HA is involved directly in the synthesis of new endogenous HA, which allows the maintenance of youthfulness (for younger clients) or regain (for more mature) optimum levels of HA for a perfectly hydrated skin. With the help of other assets designed to increase the synthesis of aquaporins and ceramides, Power Hyaluronic perfectly regulates the skin’s water dynamics. By that I mean the inflow and outflow. In turn, the skin always has the right degree of hydration to ensure a healthy skin.

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APJ Q2. What skin type does it best suit and what treatment results can a salon expect? Luca: All skin types, but it is particularly beneficial for dehydrated and mature skins. Anyone over 20 years of age can use Power Hyaluronic. It is a must for pre and post-menopause skin, when the skin's hydrodynamics can change dramatically and the skin can become very dehydrated due to hormonal changes in the body that accelerate water loss in the skin, leading to an increase in lines and wrinkles. We are also combining HA with our Corrective range, which has filling effect with expanding microcapsules of hyaluronic acid (the

microcapsules expand 30 times its size in the skin, plumping and filling the lines instantly. The Corrective Line was honoured at the Asia Spa Awards 2012, winning “Best Anti-ageing Product of the Year”. Corrective also works very well in supporting the life of injectable fillers. Corrective can make the injectable act faster in the skin and will also maintain the effect and prolong the time between injections. It is also given to patients at cosmetic surgeons as an aftercare product.

APJ Q3. Can the results become longer-lasting if used with technology and if yes, which technology has proven to provide higher results? Luca: The Power Hyaluronic is formulated to effectively release its actives to the deeper layers of the skin through enhanced delivery technology. It is also compatible using iontophoresis, ultrasound or Skyndor's Meso-Science device that has amazing capabilities to improve skin firmness and brighten the complexion.

APJ Q4. You have been in the industry for many years. What changes do you believe salons need to understand and prepare for to meet with the constant demands of consumer expectations? Luca: We have to understand that we are now dealing with a very different consumer than we did a few years ago when your client only reached out to you as the expert to be informed of their options. Today's consumer is information-savvy. They conduct their own research over the net and check out what is considered the best options for them, not only in Australia, but also across other countries. Consumers today have several concerns when it comes to their skin that we as professionals need to fully understand and address. The chief concerns are: 1. Effectiveness: Which products can deliver the best possible results and effective solutions for their concerns? They also want the results to be evident, immediate and long lasting. 2. Safety: There is also growing interest in the safety parameters of the product. Are the ingredients safe to use, especially if they penetrate deep down? They also spend time and are fiercely interested in ingredients before accepting the products. 3. Environmentally friendly: Consumers continue to also look at issues such as, is the product or the ingredients tested on animals

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and are they environmentally friendly?

4. Biotechnology: There is also a strong

interest in bio-technology. They prefer ingredients that are naturally derived. All these factors should be taken into consideration when we communicate with our clients.

APJ Q5. In your experience what are the characteristics of the most successful salons. What are they doing better than struggling salons? Luca: Those specialists and therapists that consistently update their knowledge and skills. In addition they need to be aware of the latest information on research findings and new technologies. And be able to introduce leading quality innovative products and treatment solutions to their clients. They look for brands that are market-leaders that can offer the very best results – leading products and techniques. This allows them to meet and satisfy the high expectations of the discerning and well-informed client.

that is not part of its own physiology. Alternatively, in aesthetics we often work with technologies that have been used in medicine for healing purposes. These include lightbased technologies like Photocare LED that offers incredible antiinflammatory properties, or the Accura microcurrent that works on the cell's DNA to stimulate the skin's own ATP energy, naturally and more gently supporting the skin's regeneration. This protocol primarily

Skeyndor understands that the modern clinic and salon has to meet with fierce competition, not only with each other and the internet, but also other facets in the industry such as cosmetic clinics providing injectables and other protocols available that offer fast, visible results. Skeyndor therefore focuses on products and treatment solutions that can confidently compete with these expectations – real outcomes that clients can see and invest in. Skeyndor is not only committed to leading cutting-edge innovative products, but has also developed comprehensive treatment approaches. These systems allow for the continued and incremental improvement of the skin and body in a sustainable way for both short-term and long-term improvement. This is now a necessity for salons and clinics in order to be able to keep their clients loyal. For example, Skeyndor has developed solutions for rebalancing the skin's pH and improving its hydration levels so that the skin becomes stronger and its health is restored. This then allows subsequent treatments, such as improving skin clarity, brightening the complexion and fading and eliminating discolouration and pigmentation, to be more successfully achieved. In addition, they offer another phase for lifting and toning the skin so that it can act and look noticeably younger. This is achieved through new product formulations that can better penetrate the skin, as well as equipment technology that can stimulate and energise the skin to respond and act more like a younger skin.

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While fillers may work to enhance the appearance of the skin, in some instances they may stress the skin and can trigger inflammation. There are always risks involved when something is introduced into the skin

works with the body's own electrical charges and more closely with nature rather than against it. Most of the aesthetic electromagnetic modalities trigger the body's own physiology to heal itself, and therefore, assist the skin to act more like a younger skin. By understanding how the body works we can select products and technologies that can support the body and achieve new set-points, while minimising the impact of factors that contribute to ageing. We now have the tools to do this, and with the correct technology, training and knowledge, we can offer immediate and long-term results, meeting the requirements of today's consumers. We are finally able to achieve results that can make the skin look five to 10 years younger, and we should be promoting that.

APJ Q6. Tell us a little about other new-generation skincare formulations that Skeyndor offer and what results do they offer salons and consumers? Luca: While our new Power Hyaluronic system supports and optimises skin hydration, we also have two other market leaders. These are Power C+ and Global Lift. We know that collagen and elastin are the key proteins that give skin structure and volume. We therefore need to strengthen the skin and the best way to achieve this is by offering effective lifting and toning. Power C+ is an amazing newgeneration, fat-soluble Vitamin C in ester form. It combines pomegranate extract enhancing its absorption into the skin. This

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powerful formula stimulates collagen synthesis and in Europe is considered as the highest-strength Vitamin C on the market.

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With Global Lift, Skeyndor has untilised a series of scientific strategies aimed at preventing ageing signs at a more definitive and effective level. This is achieved through a series of advanced and progressive anti-senescence marker techniques. The aim of these marker techniques is to improve the functionality of cells that have a slow metabolism and, which can cause skin to lose its fullness and definition, and a host of other age reflectors that we recognise as traditional markers of ageing.

The Skeyndor scientific team developed [ProGEN-in], an exclusive and unique technology (based on these anti-senescence therapies) to specifically target and get to the source of the problem: Progerin, a protein responsible for cellular ageing.

There are three specific active ingredients in the Global Lift that allows it to achieve this: 1. A biomimetic peptide derived from Elafin, winner of the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award 2012 at In-cosmetics®, Barcelona 2012. This is an enzymatic inhibitor with an antiprogerin (inhibits progerin production; progerin increases as the cell ages) and anti-elastase (reduces enzyme that breaks down elastin) effect that combats flaccid tissue in mature skin. 2. Menyanthes trifoliata extract (Bogbean), a potent nextgeneration antioxidant that protects cellular vitamin C content, an essential cofactor in improving the quality and quantity of collagen in the skin. Menyanthes trifoliate has been used for centuries to treat scabies, which as we know is as a result of severe vitamin C deficiency.

3. α - g l u c a n s a n d B l a c k P e p p e r ( P i p e r n i g r u m ) rhamnogalacturonans is the third active ingredient. These molecules act in the deeper skin layers (reticular dermis) to improve the skin's supportive properties, particularly in prematurely photo-aged skin and skin that lacks tone and elasticity. Black pepper stimulates the fibroblasts and also stimulates the reticular dermis and therefore has the ability to strengthen the skin against sagging such as in the jaw and neck. It supports the skin in areas such as a double chin, a result of a lack of tone. In the past products could only work to a more superficial level of the papillary dermis, however, we now know that we need to reach the reticular dermis if we are to achieve effective lifting and toning in the skin. There has been an amazing amount of research and development into the formulation of the Global Lift Skeyndor has developed in order to support us all to look younger. It is amazing that we now have the tools to restrain progerin, which we know is the cause of ageing skin as well as glycation. In fact, even in forensic science it is the progerin markers that are measured to determine the age of the person's body.

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As progerin builds up in the body it breaks down the walls of the cell nucleus and contributes to its ageing and degeneration. Global Lift literally stops the formation of progerin and makes the skin look younger for longer. It can help reverse the look of ageing skin by up to six to 10 years with noticeable firmness and fullness.

APJ Q7. Why is the use of technology in a salon or clinic becoming so important and which ones would you recommend for someone to start with and why? Luca: Clients today are familiar with technology. In fact, in the next 2-3 years over $40 billion will be spent on the development of hand-

held devices. Consumers are comfortable that appropriate technologies are part of the latest tools in skin improvement and antiageing results. It therefore stands to reason that as a professional you are also using appropriate technology to achieve professional results. Another feature that consumers are familiar with is the benefit of multi-fuctionality. As a salon owner starting out in your practice or business even with a limited budget you can still have quality professional equipment that offers various technologies in the one unit. We offer the ACCURA, which is an extremely cost-effective modern device that combines various technologies in the one device so that every specialist can achieve superior and high-standard results.

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APJ Q8. If a salon is looking for sustained long-term results in terms of lifting and firming (anti-ageing), which currents and technology can offer them the most effective tools to achieve this? Luca: If your budget can stretch a little further, one exceptional piece of equipment is the SkinLight. This machine offers seven different functionalities including: ! Diamond Microdermabrasion – for face and body exfoliation ! Lymphatic drainage – for improvement in skin immunity and circulation ! Electroporation – for enhanced product penetration ! LED – for anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing properties and to heal the skin ! Cryotherapy – to cool, decongest, increase skin comfort, firm the skin and assist in stabilising actives. For the body the Impact offers Ultrasonic Cavitation that merges technologies such as electroporation for effective body sculpturing and shaping to deliver fantastic results in improving body shape and supporting weight-loss efforts. We offer numerous technologies to suit every budget and professional need. With new advances in multi-functionality many of our machines offer both face and body treatment options in one. We also offer affordable leasing options to assist any business wishing to improve results, their scope of treatments and grow into a reputable and successful business.

APJ Q9. If there was one thing that you believe that aestheticians should lose, what would that be? Luca: The new direction towards the clinical approach is all about results, but unfortunately what is being lost is the whole issue of client relaxation, comfort and experience. This is not luxury and in fact it strongly contributes to your respect and connection with your client and is the crucial part of the wellness and the feel-good experience that is often neglected. It is important that we don't lose this in our quest to achieve clinical results. There is sufficient evidence that clients want the full package results, plus the feel-good experience. In fact, this may be the one deciding factor that ensures your client returns because, you not only want to make her look good, but also feel fantastic after their visit with you. You cannot underestimate the value of this as an important part of the equation.

For further information please contact VOGUE IMAGE GROUP 1800 554 545/03 9821 0033

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Are you ready for a higher level of skin improvement without the need for surgery?

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Ultimate Multi-functional device The number one choice of dynamic beauty therapists world-wide Exceptional delivery of actives Super-charged, immediate and long-lasting results for face and body Proven clinical results

For a copy of the Clinical Trials or to arrange a demonstration please contact

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businessspecialist ㄰

The Role of the PROFIT-MAXIMISING SPECIALIST in Business Development and Growth By Caroline Nelson

Last year after one of my business-development seminars I had a delegate come up and say to me ,“Caroline, you are the beauty business whisperer”. What a lovely compliment. But this got me thinking about what I do when helping salon, spa or clinic owners improve their business. And to consider if the popular term of business coach or mentor best describes what I provide. On deliberation and while I liked the 'beauty business whisperer' title, I believe what I consider myself to be is a Profit-Maximised Specialist. So what is the role and requirements of a profit-maximising specialist and what can one do for a business? First, the specialist needs to uses their industry experience, expertise and in-depth analysis of the individual business to identify strategies that will increase revenue and market share by improving competitive advantage. In addition they help businesses to grow by solving problems and finding new and better ways of doing things, thus increasing the value of the business. As the old saying goes “two heads are better than one” and this is certainly the case if you want to grow a hugely profitable beauty business. While I would like to see all businesses have the support of an expert specialist to assist them in these areas, this may not always be possible. It may not even be necessary if the business is flourishing, prosperous and highly profitable. But if it isn't then let's consider some of the ways a profit-maximising specialist could improve the business and the success strategies that would be applied.

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Before any changes or improvements can be implemented I complete an in-depth professional Business Needs Analysis of my client’s business and measure how effective the current operations are working. You could use this list to guide you in completing your own analysis.

These are the 10 key areas of the analysis: 1. 2. ㈵

3. 4.

What is the business’s USP – Unique Selling Proposition What are the business's Strengths – Weaknesses – Opportunities Competitor analysis Client data analysis

5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Service and Retail analysis Customer Service Policy Procedures and Systems documentation Employee Appraisal Business Plan and Financial Management Marketing Strategies and Plan

I generally find conducting the business analysis engages my clients more fully with their business and allows me to quickly find the best solutions to specific challenges they might be experiencing. It also assists me to link solutions, effective strategies and time-line plans to reach business goals. Conducting your own analysis could be a real eye-opener on just how well your operating systems are working or not working. Once the a business needs analysis has been completed many business owners who have previously been overwhelmed and plagued with indecisions will not only have a clearer picture of how their business is currently operating and how it could improve, but also be more confident in commencing on the necessary changes. Improved and efficient strategies will have a positive influence on sales and will assist in increasing your revenue, while supporting employees in reaching sales targets. This in turn relieves management and staff stress, making for a happier workplace. At this point I have had many clients say it's like a pressure valve has been released, reducing stress levels of all concerned. The business needs analysis report is also a 'blueprint' or plan. But why is it so important to have this 'blueprint' or plan? To start with I think you would agree that if you were building a new house you would expect the builder to use architectural plans and engineering blueprints during the building phase, especially if you wanted the house to have the desired features and to look and function how you wanted it to. The same goes with your business. If you want it to achieve your goals and financial objectives you and your team will need to know the resources that are necessary and how best to utilise them. A blueprint

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is like a very effective checklist, allowing everything to be ticked off as a project is completed.

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CREATING THE RIGHT CONDITIONS FOR BUSINESS SUCCESS As business owners we are responsible for our own success, but it goes without saying that we need to give ourselves every chance to succeed. To do this we need to know that each business decision we make is based on accurate facts so that all actions we take will move us closer to achieving results. Often even with all the facts we may be lacking the wherewithal, knowledge or skills required. Our industry is undergoing rapid change and the more competitive it becomes the harder it is to keep pace with the necessary changes we also need to make. Innovations in technology, changes in consumer spending habits, cyber marketing through websites, emails, social media, and new management strategies all need to be addressed. Some of these areas you will have the necessary skills, while others you may not, but if you don't then your competitors who do will have the competitive edge. This is why having someone with expert knowledge to advise and support you will be invaluable. As a leader of your team you need to have accountability strategies in place so that you can monitor, compare, and benchmark their progress and sales results and put into place any training necessary for improved performance, depending on their productivity or lack thereof. But who are you accountable to? Who can monitor, compare, and benchmark your progress and sales results, and who is skilled to train you in the latest management and marketing techniques? The beauty and aesthetics industry is undergoing huge challenges, from medical practices that have jumped on-board and are now in

direct competition to you, to the Internet that now not only allows customers to buy many of the products you are selling them, but also at prices that are often cheaper than what you can buy them from your suppliers. Additionally, many of the services that clients were coming to us for can now be done at home. They can even purchase online some of the technologies we think are just available to us, such as hand-held IPL and skin-toning devices. While we are aware that these home-treatments are not as effective as a salon or clinic service, we are still losing some of our market share.

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Having a profit-maximising specialist, business coach or mentor isn't a luxury, it's a necessity your business must have if it's to keep up, grow and continue to be profitable. They are invaluable to give you a fresh perspective, identify weaknesses and illuminate new possibilities, and to provide you with proven business-building strategies.

So how did your business stack up in the 10 key areas of the Business Needs Analysis? Are you confident that all 10 are working efficiently? If they are then you are to be congratulated, but if you honestly see some weaknesses or deficiencies then you should take action to turn things around. Whether you are skilled enough to accomplish this yourself, or you need to get an expert's advice, whichever the case may be, make sure you have positioned your business for sustainability and ongoing success. © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2014

Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert with over 40 years experience who specialises in business development for salons and spas. Visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com to see her full selection of Beauty Industry business tools and up-coming Business Development seminars.

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apanbusinesshelp ㄰

Taking the stress out of employing staff through correct

EMPLOYEE RECORD KEEPING If you employ staff in your business, you'll already know the importance of paying them correctly and on time. Being aware of your obligations for providing pay slips is equally important, although an often less understood requirement. APAN can assist you in making sure you have the correct documentation to meet with your legal obligations and can provide you with simple advice. Once you have the right format in place it makes life so much easier and stress-free. Many of the frustrations that businesses encounter are due to insufficient or a lack of structure when it comes to employee engagements. For example, some of the legal requirements you should be aware of include: ! Giving all employees a pay slip within one working day of their pay day, even when they're on leave. ! Making sure the correct information is provided on the pay slip. ! Issuing the pay slip either electronically or on paper.

It's also recommended that you:

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Use plain English Give pay-slips to staff securely and confidentially in an easily printable format Ensure your staff can access and print their pay slips in private.

Not providing a pay slip, or providing one without the required information, can result in a fine for your business. APAN can provide you with a full set of documents that are available as templates so that you can duplicate them as the need arises. You therefore only need to purchase them once. These include: ! Employment record details ! Payslip templates ! Weekly wage records ! Time sheets ! Roster templates

We also prove you with:

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Employment Agreements, as well as Human Resource Templates Annual leave application guidelines Flexible work arrangements guidelines Parental leave

Maintaining correct records will not only gain you the respect of your employees, but will also remove unnecessary stress. Without correct record-keeping documentation you may feel insecure and potentially sitting on a time bomb when some misunderstanding may occur between you and your employees.

Here is one example: A salon owner phoned in total panic when one of her employees notified her that as of the following day she was taking her annual leave. As she was a casual employee she felt that it was within her rights to take time out and join family members on a holiday overseas with just one day's notice. Meanwhile, the employer had ongoing bookings for her without anyone to replace her. While there was a loose policy in her Workplace Agreement about annual leave, if she was required to complete an Annual Leave Application form this would have necessitated that she first communicate with her employer beforehand. We regularly receive examples of communication breakdown between employers and employees and most of them are as a result of a lack of agreements in place and appropriate record keeping.

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If we can assist you in this regard please contact APAN for further details. You can purchase these documents from us. Better still, join APAN as a member and receive these documents at a discounted price and ongoing advice and support for free.

Phone APAN on 07 5593 0360 or Eemail info@apanetwork.com

APJ 18


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businessmarketing The New Crowning Glory of Communication

CONTENT MARKETING

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By Gill Fish ㈵

Any business requires a constant stream of committed clients that will trust and engage with them for their products and services. While a number of loyal clients may make the core of your business, a certain percentage will drift away due to varying reasons, so part of any successful business is to have a constant plan and strategy that improves client engagement and growth. However, with the plethora of social media and the multiple means of communication, is your message getting lost or overlooked as consumers are constantly flooded with emails and other social media messages? However, there is now a solution. Content Marketing is the new strategy that is achieving amazing results. It is a new discipline that utilises the social media platform with a more sophisticated approach to engagement. Gill Fish is the director of Brand New Solutions, the leading PR, Branding and Business Development agency in the health and beauty arena. Here she explains social marketing and why it so important in achieving client growth in the era of high technology. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

In a world of super-fast communications and of a myriad of product choices for consumers, the days of relying solely on traditional advertising or PR for promoting products and services are over. Gill Fish, Managing Director of Specialist Beauty and Health PR and Content Marketing Agency Brand New Solutions, demystifies Content Marketing, the new buzz on the comms scene, explaining how Content Marketing with an integrated approach to PR, Marketing and Communications is absolutely key to communications success for the future.

The advent of social media that is driven by the power of 24/7 online via mobile phones, tablets and desktops, the ability of brands to build longer-lasting meaningful relationships that enable call-to-action messaging in subtle ways, rather than with a hard sales focus, has led to the explosion of what is known as Content Marketing.

WHAT IS CONTENT MARKETING? Content Marketing (CM) is acknowledged as the new black of Communications, defined by the Content Marketing Institute as “a marketing technique of creating and distributing engaging, helpful and informative content to attract, acquire and engage a clearly defined and understood target audience with the objective of driving profitable customer action”. CM is about engaging consumers at a level deeper than just product placement or logo recognition. CM uses a host of different tools (ebooks, feature articles, white papers, micro-sites, apps, videos, imagery, blog posts, newsletters, posts and more) in an integrated strategy (with PR, ABTL & Social Media) to capture the attention of the target audience, to build a lasting relationship, which ultimately presents the messages that encourage the audience to try your product or service. Successful CM delivers messages in ways that are not overt, but rather subtle, contextual, educational and helpful, which have relevance to the target consumer's life experience and life style.

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CM helps to build relationships with target audiences. They are not viewed as sales messages. But, if successful, they help to engage the consumer over time, which in turn helps to drive sales through trust and engagement. CM

is relevant for Small Business Marketing (experts, clinics)

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including regenerative skincare; or an Infographic with antiinflammatory foods to eat to avoid skin ageing, on Facebook. Then, develop the content plan and editorial calendar; develop the tone of communication (text and images).

through to Multi-National corporate Marketing (Beauty, Health and other brands). Let's take stem-cell derived skincare, within a crowded skincare market; a market where consumers are less likely to change brands (vs makeup); where consumers are generally loyal. How does one get cutthrough?

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success of CM, providing insights into the effectiveness of your stories and enabling you to tweek or change tactics. Measured by how many people have viewed the content, commented or shared, downloaded, etc. How engaging is the content? Be it a feature article on a third party website or a blog post on owned media. Is Mrs A.G.E. Less returning to the sites? Is she sharing or commenting?

Let's define our target customer for stem-cell derived skincare as 40 year old, female, suburban, middle income – let's call her Mrs A.G.E. Less. She has photo-ageing of the skin. Yes, product placement in magazines and blogs are great. But where's the X-factor that gets her or her friends to leave their tried and trusted serum to try stem-cell derived skincare? The answer lies in a process of educating her about stem-cells and the principle of regenerative skincare through explaining in depth how we age; why we age (internally and aesthetically); what lifestyle factors cause ageing; what foods cause ageing; how ageing happens; by becoming her trusted advisor for c r e d i b l e information about all things ageing (get her to sign up to your newsletter; to watch your videos; to read articles written by your experts on micro-sites. Educate her about through a myriad of engaging and educational messages, which are not specifically product driven. Does that mean you shouldn't mention product? No, it's about understanding where in the purchase cycle (ie through the different phases of her making her decision to purchase) it is relevant to include product information.

Measure the outcomes – Listening and measuring are key to the

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Optimise your content and make it work for you – with call to actions (great for database capture, for example by a newsletter, or downloadable e-book on anti-ageing); meta-tags, link building, gated content, keywords, PR, SEO. In addition earned free media (Facebook, Google+, Pinterest, etc) or paid media (Facebook ads and promoted posts; Paid Content Amplification , etc).

“if you can help somebody you will have a customer for life”

FIRST, WE NEED TO DEVELOP OUR CONTENT STRATEGY Before embarking on a CM program it is essential to plan a Content Strategy. This would include: ! Define the objectives – Create brand awareness; generate demand; create leads and convert; build customer loyalty and retention (Mrs A.G.E. Less doesn't yet know about regenerative skincare and the role of stem cells that could help her reverse some of the signs of skin ageing so we need to educate her on the mechanisms of regenerative skincare; the role of stem cells, all within content which she will relate to. In order to do this, we need to monitor and listen to messages of competitors and to places where Mrs A.G.E. Less' regularly visits. Is it a website? Facebook or a blog?

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Develop and understand the audience personas – What is her need? How big is her need? Visualise your audience age range, major concerns, key purchase drivers, preferred content medium, what drives them to make decisions and when? What information are they seeking in their lives (not product), but educational and contextual anti-ageing and prevention, not only for skin, but for internal. Do we have a unique value proposition to offer her?

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HOW DO YOU CHOOSE A CONTENT MARKETING AGENCY? Successful Content Marketing relies on the skills of expert Content Strategists and Generators who think like journalists. They should plan the content strategy for your brand or clinic in the same way a magazine is compiled with a brand strategy, a creative strategy, an engagement strategy and an amplification strategy. Your agency should have proven media expertise and a track record for out of the box thinking in Content Generation. They should be able to engage advocates for your brand and understand how to amplify content 10+ times over for maximum benefit.

CONTENT MARKETING SUCCESS What does Content Marketing success look like? With a defined strategy, over time a successful CM campaign can deliver various outcomes, depending on the original objectives set. ! Customer acquisition ! Engaged customers ! Customer conversion ! Build customer loyalty ! Enhance message sharing with family and friends ! New revenue streams ! ROI ! Take control of your messaging ! Online marketing

Define the tactics i.e what tools to use? What do we already

The Internet and CM has provided beauty and health brands and clinics with opportunities never dreamt of 10 years ago. Brands have now become publishing/media houses, generating content, publishing and amplifying their own content, rather than relying on a traditional media journalist's decision to publish their story/product review or not.

have? Facebook, website, Twitter? What new tools do we need? Blog? White paper? Videos? Feature articles on sites? What does Mrs A.G.E. Less visit most frequently?

The world is our oyster and the good fortune and future of our businesses is in our hands, thanks to Content Marketing.

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Prepare the Content Plan – Take into account the different tools and channels as well as the different approaches to messaging for each eg Q & A series with a respected plastic surgeon about skin ageing on a blog; or a feature article on a weekly magazine website about the hottest celebrity skincare trends in Hollywood,

For a FREE half-hour Content Marketing Assessment with Brand New Solutions please contact Gill Fish gfish@brandnewsolutions.com.au 0400 200 441 or 02 8356 9595

APJ 21


advancededucation

Are You Ready for the New Degree Qualification in CLINICAL AESTHETICS?

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WHAT ARE STUDENTS SAYING ABOUT THIS DEGREE?

Student Testimonials: Bradford Fenton Creese With over 17 years’ training and sales experience in the aesthetics industry, I am very excited by the launch of this new degree program – the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) and with my decision to undertake this qualification. It is great that for the first time we have in Sydney a nationally recognised degree qualification that addresses the advanced skills and knowledge required by the rapidly evolving developments in technology and ingredients that are entering the aesthetics industry. As aesthetics is now closer aligned with cosmetic medicine it is important that professionals become better qualified and competent in clinical aspects of the profession. These advances now require that we gain greater knowledge and skills to keep up with these changes, and I believe that the current diplomas and advanced diplomas offered do not comprehensively cover the level of skills needed, nor does any other degree qualification currently on offer.

There is a real buzz in the industry as the Australasian College of Health and Wellness has recently launched a new tertiary-level qualification – the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics). The program boasts an impressive array of diverse and comprehensive industry units that are well balanced to deliver both academically rigorous theoretical components as well extensive practical skills. In fact, this degree promises to deliver new and up-to-date units that will equip graduates with not just a new level of knowledge, but also practical skills to enter the industry with confidence from the very first day.

A BRIDGING COURSE TO HELP YOU PREPARE FOR YOUR DEGREE

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After careful evaluation I believe that the in-depth content of this program will build on my extensive mix of experience and knowledge in the retail, spa and salon sectors of the industry and put me at the forefront of current knowledge and skills. The course's hands-on clinicallybased approach will also give me the practical skills and the depth of knowledge to become a confident practitioner in a broad range of settings – cosmetics, dermal therapies, healthcare, fitness as well as in the emerging clinical aesthetics. What makes the course even more attractive to me is its flexibility of learning and the way in which I will be able to fit it in with my demanding professional commitments. Without question this is a market-leading course, and as an established professional in the field I eagerly look forward to the exciting new career possibilities it will

The Australasian College believes in giving back to the industry. If you wish to undertake a degree, but are not sure how well you will manage, the Australasian College is offering an intensive

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APJ 22


WHAT ARE STUDENTS SAYING ABOUT THIS DEGREE?

Student Testimonials: Mona Rahme

tertiary preparation course. This bridging course will allow you to up-skill your current learning capabilities and help you to more confidently pursue study at the tertiary level. This course will support students to develop their expertise in both science and academic preparation. The two subjects on offer are Special Topics in Science (ADS101) and Academic Skilling (PDS101).

ADS 101 Special Topics in Science This course content emphasises the current topics in Clinical Aesthetics such as dermal therapy and anti-ageing. The unit is designed for students wishing to improve their knowledge of the basic sciences in a healthcare context. It acts as a bridging course for articulating students who may want to develop their understanding of the basic scientific principles in the area of clinical aesthetics. ADS 101 is largely a self-directed unit taught as a series of supervised projects and assessment tasks delivered interactively by webinar, allowing students to discover and assimilate knowledge of sound scientific principles while completing the tasks. This unit makes extensive use of the online learning management system (LMS), allowing lecturers to initiate and facilitate topic discussions around tasks. While there are no formal lectures in ADS 101, students are expected to attend (by webinar) a weekly 2hr tutorial sessions for discussion, in addition to participation on the LMS. It is expected that students will allocate up to 8hrs per week of self-directed learning and use of the LMS. This program will be delivered weekly over 4 sessions.

PDS 101 Academic Skilling Academic Skilling will also provide preparation for studying in a higher education context. It is based on developing new skills and enhancing previously acquired skills. The way students learn is an acquired skill that requires further development for success as a higher education student and beyond. Academic Skilling offers students a suite of modules designed to increase their awareness of learning styles, which can be pragmatically applied for success in higher education. A wide variety of modules are covered and include: study skills, essay writing, research skills, presentation skills, critical thinking, exam preparation, e-learning resources, use of technology and the like. ㄰ 㤵

Modules in PDS101 are presented in weekly tutorial sessions delivered in the same format as ADS 101 Special Topics in Science.

If you would like further information about the bridging course or on the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) please visit www.tac.edu.au/highereducation or please contact the Head of Faculty Associate, Professor Sinan Ali on 02 8587 8888.

I studied beauty therapy six years ago in Sydney and upon graduation I worked within the industry. However, I soon realised that my real passion was in advanced skin treatments. Meanwhile, constant new technologies are entering the industry and it became confusing for me as I wanted to have a scientific grounding on these technologies in order to better understand them and the choice they would give me. I soon realised I needed to be better educated, so I started to explore my options. I was keen to do a degree qualification and I heard about the one offered by Victoria University, but it was too far for me and I didn't want to study on-line. I preferred a face-to-face learning environment. I then heard about the new Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) in Sydney and I liked the curriculum as well as the practical components, which were very appealing. Being a degree program also means I will be stepping up my qualifications to a higher level than most of my colleagues. I'm passionate about the skin and I now feel I need to gain more advanced knowledge to better understand how the skin changes as we age and effective ways of addressing concerns and improving the skin to a healthier and more youthful state. I am very keen to go more deeply into pathophysiology as well as skin biology and physiology. I need to better understand what influences the skin and also explore the holistic perspective where I can learn about factors that influence it, such as lifestyle, hormonal changes throughout life as well as nutrition, but at a more advanced scientific level than I currently have. The other major benefit of this course is that it offers significant hands-on practical and clinical components that no other diploma or degree course can match. I believe the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) will allow me to gain greater depth of knowledge so that I can move more confidently, undertake advanced procedures and be able to deliver a superior service than I am currently able to. I am already liaising to work in a medical environment upon my graduation. I'll have a better qualification and be in a better position to treat skin from a broader dermal therapies perspective and work with more advanced clinical-strength products and technologies – how exciting is that?

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ASK THE EXPERT

APAN

Solutions, insight and advice for problems that arise at work

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2. THE HIGHEST EARNERS BELIEVE THEY ADD REAL VALUE – As a professional you are constantly looking at ways

I honestly believe part of the reason that my staff members don't achieve their sales targets is because they sabotage themselves through their own thinking and beliefs. How can I help them change their beliefs and not be afraid of this area of their professional responsibility? You are so right! We can only achieve what at a heart level we believe in. While your staff members may love their work they often have heart “road blocks” when it comes to communicating to their clients the next step to their treatment outcomes e.g. homecare use and what ongoing services they will need to achieve improvement and better results. According to sales expert Phil Lee there are three beliefs that high earners have that make them achieve their sales target. If your staff examine their mindset in these three areas and embrace them they are going to overcome their hurdles. Here is what you can share with them:

1. THE HIGHEST EARNERS BELIEVE THAT THEIR TIME IS THE MOST VALUABLE COMMODITY – If you believe that your client's ㄰ 㤵 㜵

time is more valuable than your own you assume a position of apology and a lack of value of what you are about to offer them. Your clients will register this subconsciously and immediately pick up that you feel like a nuisance to them and therefore, what you have to offer them is not important so they will treat it accordingly. However, if you change your belief to one that your time is valuable and your information has not only worth to your client, but also to you, as it is your duty of care and professional responsibility to them, you immediately shift your stance to one that will command respect from your client on what you have to say.

to bring amazing results to your clients' treatment outcomes. This will require that your client take a level of responsibility to honour your efforts and collaborate with you for ongoing improvement and the success of your services. Every treatment you perform can benefit from added value by way of the correct homecare to support the salon treatment, as well the appropriate ongoing services to maintain these results and to constantly improve them incrementally. A treatment result that is ignored both through the absence of appropriate homecare or follow-up services will eventually deteriorate and your client will not appreciate that. What they are looking for is value for their money and the right strategies to sustain and support that improvement would be considered valuable. As the professional, it is you that must present these strategies to them. Ask yourself how can you help them achieve that?

3. THE HIGHEST EARNERS HAVE AN ABUNDANCE MENTALITY – A successful mindset starts the day anticipating good coming their way. They are driven by hope, positive expectations and the belief that “Today I will have a fantastic day, I will achieve successful outcomes in my work and my clients will respond positively to my recommendations”. Peak performers believe there is more business in the marketplace than they can possibly handle, subsequently they qualify their opportunities carefully and never get threatened by their competitors as they believe they are offering valuable and real solutions to their clients. The opposite belief to this is that “People don't have any money, I therefore can't ask because they can't pay”. This mentality leads to drastic discounting to the point that what you are offering is an apology and loses any value, not to mention it is the reason why many salons are going broke. The message they are giving is “I am charging you too much in the first place,that is why I can afford to discount my products and services so much”. This is the mentality of poverty and it will lead you right to it very quickly.

To assist you with staff selection, staff management and record keeping APAN has developed appropriate documentation such as the APAN Interviewing Questionnaire and the HR Policy Document and a variety of over 45 documents to assist you with your business. For further details and to purchase your copies, contact APAN on Ph: 07 5593 0360 or email: info@apanetwork.com.

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APJ 24


Reaching a new level of

PROFESSIONAL EXCELLENCE

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Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics)

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Studying for a degree is now more attainable than you think

Take it to the next level New! Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) The Degree boasts a rigorous academic program built around health science supported by extensive clinical practice skills. It aims to deliver the latest in skills and knowledge to equip graduates for the exciting and rapidly changing aesthetics industry.

ENROL NOW! Limited places available for Semester 1 The Australasian College of Health and Wellness is also offering a FREE on-line tertiary preparation course (bridging) to enhance your skills for undertaking further study at a higher education level. Our preparation units include:

! ADS101 Special Topics in Science – a course designed for students wanting to improve their knowledge of the basic ㄰ 㤵 㜵

sciences in a healthcare context, with an emphasis on the current topics in Clinical Aesthetics, Dermal Therapies and Anti-ageing.

! PDS101 Academic Skilling – prepares students for the rigour of higher education by developing skills in critical thinking, research, study skills, essay writing and exam preparation.

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Each subject will be delivered by webinar over four weeks and supported by up to eight hours of self-directed learning. ㈵

To register for this FREE on-line course contact info@tac.edu.au or call 1800 999 963

For further information about the degree please contact Head of Faculty Associate Professor Sinan Ali on 02 8587 8888. Sinan.ali@tac.edu.au | www.tac.edu.au/highereducation


starperformer ㄰

essential to our future and for generations to come,” Jane said.

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“So why did we decide to get our sprays certified? Where possible, we've always used organic certified ingredients, but we've never advertised it. The sprays seemed to be the obvious place to start since they were all plant-based, as opposed to the inorganic minerals that comprise many of our products. Sometimes people get confused between organic, meaning that the ingredient came from a live source as opposed to certified organic, which refers to the way the ingredient was grown and processed.

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“We are often asked about the process. Did the product formulation change, or was it simply because the product passed the test as it is? It was a long, complicated and arduous process. ECOCERT follows each ingredient from the moment it is sourced to the moment the final product is placed on the warehouse shelf. They also analyse every ingredient that comes from the ingredient suppliers down to parts per million to make sure there are no non-certified ingredients such as synthetic preservatives used in the manufacturing process. Laboratories, factories, warehouses are all inspected at least twice. Although the sprays already contained many certified organic ingredients, as we drilled down to the level ECOCERT required, we did change some of the ingredients. I think we have an even better product now.”

jane iredale the Green Cosmetics jane iredale’s Hydration Sprays have been reformulated and awarded ECOCERT's Natural and Organic certification. ECOCERT is one of the most respected independent, natural and organic certification bodies in the world and was the first to develop a standard for natural and organic cosmetics. ECOCERT strives to promote the use of ingredients derived from renewable resources and from organic farming, in addition to using production and manufacturing processes that are environmentally sound and safe for human health. Jane Iredale, founder of Iredale Mineral Cosmetics, shares her thoughts on the ECOCERT journey and where the company stands in terms of green cosmetics. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

“Since we started the company 20 years ago, we've always had an Eco vision, and it has been ongoing. I believe that an Eco vision encompasses not only products, but also packaging, lifestyle, inspiring employees (we have an organic vegetable and fruit garden that employees work and harvest), and an overall concern for the planet and what we're leaving behind. I believe this is not only important, but

Is there any news for the future in terms of JI taking more green steps? ㄰

“We're always taking green steps. But we also want to listen to the consumer to see what future steps she would like to see us take. As you can imagine, the process is an expensive one,” Jane confirmed.

jane iredale – THE SKINCARE MAKEUP 1300 850 008

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APJ 26



APAN – AUSTRALIAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE

Science and Business – Getting the balance right for success

112 Melville Parade, Como, PERTH, WA

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In today's competitive business environment it's not enough to simply believe you have the best products and services, what matters is, are consumers identifying what is specifically different about you and your business and why they should trust your advice and prefer your services over other businesses? This year's conference program will focus on the theme science and business – getting the balance right for success. It will lift the lid on new global trends, changes to regulations in Australia and educational pathways to safeguard your practices into the future. Learn how to effectively integrate the two powerful components – exceptional knowledge and leading marketing strategies and secure your success into the future.

CONFERENCE PROGRAM AND SPEAKERS 8.00am – REGISTRATION WELCOME | INTRODUCTION | NETWORKING TIME: 8.30 – 9.00am TOPIC: ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY OF THE SKIN – PART1. TIME: 9.00 – 9.45am SPEAKER: Professor Ray Hayek – Executive Dean of the Australasian College of Health and Wellness

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A Three-Part seminar series that will be presented by Professor Ray Hayek at the three APAN Conferences in 2014. Each day in your profession you interact with the skin, working diligently to improve its appearance and condition, but how well do you really understand the intricacies of its structure, function as well as the internal and external factors that impact on the skin's health and vitality. Gaining a more in-depth understanding of the integumentary systems will open up new possibilities on how you address skin conditions and determine more effective treatment plans. Professor Hayek is the Executive Dean of the Australasian College of Health and Wellness. He has been instrumental in the drafting of the new Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics), ensuring that this qualification addresses the current educational and skill needs of present and future aesthetic professionals who wish to adopt strategies that deliver best practice on their procedures.

IN THIS LECTURE YOU WILL LEARN:

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Anatomy and physiology of the skin – a scientific approach

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Understanding the role of the skin Skin immunity and its purpose New scientific findings This lecture will set the foundation of a deeper understanding of the skin, setting the foundation for Part 2 seminar (Sydney) on pathophysiology of skin disorders. Part 3 seminar (Hobart) Evidencebased approach to skincare and skin management as an aesthetics practitioner.

NETWORKING & MORNING TEA BREAK 9.45 – 10.15am TOPIC: UNDERSTAND UNDERLYING CAUSES FOR SKIN DISORDERS TIME: 10.15 – 11.00am SPEAKER: Gay Wardle – Director, Masters Dermal Academy In your skin treatments you often encounter various skin manifestations and disorders, but do you know what has caused them and ways that you can provide solutions and support for their management and healing? Gay Wardle is a multi-award winner and salon owner. She is also a highly respected trainer and educator in skin analysis and skin science. Having recently received her Bachelor's Degree in Dermal Therapies, Gay brings a new level of skin science that looks at the cellular structure of the skin and identifies ways to provide solutions based on credible science.

IN THIS LECTURE YOU WILL LEARN:

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Major skin disorders and their manifestation Differentiating various types of allergies and sensitivities Skin support through correct nutrition Understanding and optimising skin immunity

NETWORKING BREAK 11.00 – 11.30am TOPIC: NEW TRENDS AND TECHNIQUE IN APPEARANCE ENHANCEMENT TIME: 11.30am – 12.15pm SPEAKER: Dr Jayson Oates FRACS – Medical Director of the Academy of Facial Plastics and Laser Specialist Clinic The quest for youthfulness through surgical intervention and anti-ageing procedures is constantly on the rise. Meanwhile, new innovations are offering more subtle and natural results both through techniques and technologies. As a skincare or dermal therapist, do you know the full spectrum of options both clinically and surgically?

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Dr Jayson Oates is the Medical Director of the Academy of Facial Plastics and Laser Specialist Clinic and was past president of the Australasian Academy of Facial Plastic Surgery. In this lecture he will present new shifts and trends into appearance enhancement and expected outcomes.

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Why different techniques and modalities are chosen for different people PRP and its use in skin rejuvenation Technology and aesthetic enhancement Introduction to intimate aesthetic surgery.

NETWORKING & LUNCH BREAK 12.15 – 1.15pm TOPIC: GLOBAL TRENDS/ INDUSTRY DEVELOPMENTS – PERTH IN SPRING HOW THEY WILL The weather in Perth in May is a glorious 20-23 degrees. Renowned for its beautiful beaches EFFECT YOU overlooking the Indian Ocean, exquisite food and restaurants, buzzing café society and amazing shopping, Perth is the ideal destination to combine work and some fun. TIME: 1.15 – 2.00pm SPEAKER: Tina TOPIC: PROTECTING THE NAME AND Viney – Chief Executive Officer, APAN REPUTATION OF YOUR BUSINESS Unless we understand consumer trends we cannot be adequately prepared to face the wave of change that will TIME: 2.30 – 3.15pm influence how successful our business offerings will be. The research SPEAKER: Michael Bishop – Senior of trends has become a truly specialised area and offers invaluable Partner, Pointon Partners Lawyers

insight into current and future consumer needs and wants and how our changing world is influencing their opinions, preferences and the choice they favour when it comes to personal care products and services. Tina Viney is the foremost expert in the area of global trends. She is committed to daily research in this area and her knowledge and expertise have positioned her as an industry expert and leader. Tina will present the latest statistics in both consumer trends and industry developments in the area of regulations and standards.

IN THIS LECTURE YOU WILL LEARN:

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What are the key changes in consumer expectations How to use this information to position your services with greater relevance What changes are happening within the industry in the area of regulations Where to find the best resources when it comes to support and information

NETWORKING BREAK 2.00 – 2.30pm

Two of the most important keys to a successful business are a solid brand identity that is recognised and that is also supported by good reputation. While you may do everything to secure both, human nature sometimes can be unpredictable. Grievances with staff or clients can lead to disruptive conduct, while your hard-earnt reputation may be destroyed through social media comments and defamatory comments. So what are the legal options in dealing with such issues? Pointon Partner Lawyers is considered one of the most credible law firms in Australia and specialise in business law, industrial relations and trademarks. Michael Bishop is a senior lawyer with Pointon Partners Lawyers and has extensive experience in both business law and industrial relations.

IN THIS LECTURE HE WILL PRESENT VALUABLE INFORMATION ON YOUR CHOICES AND WHERE YOUR STAND WITH THE LAW ON:

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Derogatory comments about your business by a customer, competitor or former staff member – what you can do to stop it

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Social media policies for employees – employee comments about the workplace on social media sites Out of hours conduct by employees – how much control do you have if it is affecting the reputation of your business Business names and Trade Marks – what is the difference

NETWORKING & AFTERNOON TEA BREAK 3.15 – 3.45pm

Concurrently with the Conference a

EYELASH EXTENSION MASTER CLASS FULL DAY WORKSHOP

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will be conducted See pages 32-33 for details. ㈵

TOPIC: THE NEW MARKETING APPROACH THAT WORKS TIME: 3.45 – 4.30pm SPEAKER: Greg Milner – Co-founder & CEO Worldwide Salon Marketing

In the fast-paced world of super speed in communication and the constantly changing world of media options, salon and spa businesses often find choices confusing if not challenging on what will best work to help them increase their client base and grow their business. Greg Milner is a Marketing Expert and considered a specialist in this area and in particular in salon and spa management. Based on the Worldwide Salon Marketing client base and feedback that he engages with on a daily basis, Greg will expose what is working in this field and what to avoid. He will review the changes that have happened over the past five years and what salons and spas need to do in marketing in order to move forward in the immediate years to come. Greg will discuss the key strategies for salon owners to implement to ensure their survival and growth of their businesses.

This is a one-day intensive training course for qualified eyelash extension stylists who wish to improve their skills to a “Masters” level.

IN THIS LECTURE YOU WILL LEARN:

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Marketing mistakes most salons make and how to avoid them How to instantly stand out from the competition Getting clear about what matters online How to put more money in your bank account in 21 days or less

The course will include notes and practical training and graduates will be a awarded a Certificate of Attendance.

NETWORKING BREAK 4.30 – 5.00pm

Morning, afternoon tea and buffet lunch will also be served. As this training session will run concurrently with the APAN Australian Aesthetics Conference “students” will also have access to the APAN Exhibition at no extra charge.

REGISTRATION: APAN members $179 | Non-members $195. Delegates will receive a full kit, Statement of Attendance, morning and afternoon tea and buffet lunch. There will also be numerous prizes and gifts to be won and access to a small exhibition.

The course will include theory and practical training. To register for the Conference or the Workshop please phone 07 5593 0360 or visit the APAN website www.apanetwork.com and register on-line.

For accommodation bookings Ph: (08) 9367 0300 and state that you are an APAN Conference delegate or exhibitor for your SPECIAL RATE.

Only 10 applicants will be accepted as this is an intensive training program.

COST: $595: TIME: 9am to 5pm. ㄰

PLEASE REGISTER NOW TO ENSURE YOUR POSITION.

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LOCATION: The Esplanade 112 Melville Parade Como WA 6152.

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To register phone APAN on 07 5593 0360 or email your details to info@apanetwork.com

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APAN

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AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE

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AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCES

Science and Business – Getting the balance right for success SUNDAY MAY 25 | 8am – 5pm | Esplanade River Suites HOTEL 112 Melville Parade Como PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA Bringing National Experts and International information to Perth ! Certified Professional Development ! ! ! ! ! ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Conference Six dynamic speakers Leading unbiased educational program The latest in industry news, research and industry developments Discover what lies ahead and determine your options Gain the competitive advantage

CHANGES IN THE INDUSTRY REVEALED CAN YOU AFFORD NOT TO KNOW

THERE IS NO PROGRAM LIKE IT Who should attend Salon and Spa business owners Practitioners and therapists Dermal therapists Aesthetic nurses Educators and Trainers Industry professionals “I have attended many conference events, but the calibre of information presented at APAN's Conferences offered me the best industry insight, serious education and business strategies. Their programs offer the perfect balance of topics to help me set my direction on a more focused course to reach my goals with greater conference. This program was the best value for money.” Jane Taylor, Qld

This is a fully catered and Certified Professional Development Program Learn Conceptualise Innovate Network Implement

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APAN Members $169 | Non-APAN Members $189 | For accommodation phone 08 9367 0300 quote APAN

REGISTER TODAY by phone or on-line | Ph: 07 5593 0360 | info@apanetwork.com | www.apanetwork.com


eyelashtraining ㄰

Mastering the ART OF EYELASH EXTENSION In recent years we have seen companies going neck-in-neck to outdo each other in new lash-enhancing formulas as well as mascara formulations and brush designs, each promising more volume and greater lash length, all for a good reason. There is no doubt that one of the signs of ageing is when eyelashes get thinner, shorter and weaker, leaving the eyes looking drab, lifeless and bare. In a bid to provide a remedy, lash extensions is another innovation that is also becoming a big trend.

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While lash extensions add glamour to a younger face they also add youthfulness to those who are losing lash volume due to their age. Meanwhile, as this market trend gains popularity we are also seeing poor craftsmanship in their application, as well as poor-quality products entering the market. The frenzy in lash extension has led to a flood of new products that compete with each other for their market share by promising cheaper products and quick training time. The eyes are the window of the soul and making them beautiful definitely has its benefits. However, eyes are also very delicate and care must be taken when applying products to them. Poor-quality

adhesive can lead to irritation of the eye and poor lash application can lead to damage to the natural lashes, making them weaker and often causing damage to them. While this is an amazing procedure that can transform and take years off one's appearance, it is very much a specialty and requires detailed artistic skill to ensure the best possible results. Therefore specialist training is imperative.

MASTER TRAINER Jodie Burwood is an eyelash stylist who is considered an icon in the industry. She is raising the bar to a higher level of excellence with this procedure. Jodie is based in Perth, Western Australia and is already in high demand across Australia as a trainer. She recently opened a new salon, The Eyelash Pallas, and already has a bulging clientele who are relentlessly seeking her services.

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As a highly sought-after teacher Jodie has shared her extensive knowledge on lash extensions with more than 120 students and is

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constantly perfecting her own skills by seeking out the most innovative techniques from around the world, the latest being a Russian method that sent the lash world into a spin.

It didn't take long for Jodie to earn the reputation as Perth's premier lash expert, but what she soon realised was that she couldn't keep up with the demand from clients.

“For the past 10 years we have always had a strict theory that to maintain eyelash health we would apply just one single extension to one single natural lash. That way we wouldn't weigh down the natural lashes,” she says.

“I was turning away dozens of clients on a weekly basis,” Jodie says, “as I had no-one to recommend them to.”

“But about 10 months ago, I discovered Russian eyelash stylists were using baby-fine, super-soft, silk lashes to make a beautiful bouquet of lashes on each natural lash.” The exciting new technique can give clients lashes that are up to six times more intense than before,and Jodie is bursting with excitement about the future of lashing.

That's when Jodie decided to become a qualified teacher and developed a training manual and assessment procedures. She also devised a unit of competency since Australian criteria had not yet been set for this treatment.

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“Individual eyelash extensions have only been around for just over 10 years, so there was no guide for training new stylists,” she says. Soon Jodie started formally training eyelash stylists. As lash extensions became her passion she also created her own line of products. Lash Sublime started with three basic products, but has today grown to offer more than 100 lines.

The dynamic stylist first discovered her passion for creating luscious lashes when daughter Pallas, now nine, was born. Jodie was working part-time as a cosmetic company sales representative and looking for an opportunity that fitted with her new responsibilities.

MASTER CLASS TRAINING OPPORTUNITY

"Lashing became my moonlighting. It was all I could manage while Pallas was tucked in for the night," she said. “It quickly became my passion.”

We are delighted to announce that Jodie will be delivering a EYELASH EXTENSION MASTER CLASS in conjunction with the APAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE in Perth on Sunday, 25th May, 2014 at the Esplanade in South Perth.

Jodie threw herself into the world of eyelash extensions by reading and researching everything she could on the subject, and she laughs as she confirms that practising new techniques on her family and friends was what allowed her to perfect her skills.

The class will run concurrently with the Conference and will include morning and afternoon tea as well as a buffet lunch. For details see below:

EYELASH EXTENSION MASTER CLASS This is a one-day intensive training course for qualified eyelash extension stylists who wish to improve their skills to a “Masters” level. The course will include notes and practical training and graduates will be a awarded a Certificate of Attendance. Morning, afternoon tea and buffet lunch will also be served. As this training session will run concurrently with the APAN Australian Aesthetics Conference “students” will also have access to the APAN Exhibition at no extra charge. ㄰

The course will include theory and practical training.

Only 10 applicants will be accepted as this is an intensive training program.

Cost: $595: Time: 9am to 5pm. PLEASE REGISTER NOW TO ENSURE YOUR POSITION. Location: The Esplanade 112 Melville Parade Como WA 6152. To register phone APAN on 07 5593 0360 or email your details to info@apanetwork.com

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industrytrend ㄰

The new Era of MULTI-FUNCTIONALITY Reshaping the cosmetic world By Tina Viney The term multi-functionality needs no explanation – it simply means being able to perform more than one function. There is nothing new about this term. What is new and noteworthy, however, is the significance of this term and its relevance to our industry. Multifunctionality and customisation are about giving clients not only choice, but flexibility and diverse benefits all at the same time, whether in one product or in a treatment, and these, both as a term as well as a phenomenon, are about to take centre-stage in the next few years. It is therefore important that we take note of this trend and introduce its version in the way we operate and communicate with our clients. It all began with the recent introduction and popularity of the multifunctionality of the BB creams that allowed consumers to gain the benefit of a makeup that combined the benefits of skincare in a variety of functions, including anti-ageing properties, moisturising, sun protection, skin whitening and anti-blemish properties. Their popularity was so great that CC creams followed providing Colour Control for the skin, and now followed further with the introduction of the DD creams that have the same type of properties, but target the body and feet and are often marked as self-tanning products. Taking note of this new trend major brands that specialise in haircare like L'Oreal recently announced a major product redesign and rebranding for its Redken professional hair styling products around a similar concept of customisation. The new range springs from eight different styling features, including volume, texture and smoothness together with a choice of hair holding strengths on a scale of 1 to 30. So what about skincare?

MULTI-FUNCTIONALITY AND AESTHETICS

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In professional skincare formulations we will also see the issue of multi-functionality being introduced as well an emphasis on customisation. This is where base creams are formulated that are then finalised at the time of use through the addition of specific actives that the therapist introduces to the formula at the time of the consultation. This allows the therapist the flexibility to accommodate any changes to the client's skin since their last visit. These changes may be due to hormonal, seasonal or health issues. The end product will therefore aim to best meet the needs of the current state of the skin and correct any deficiencies. One company that offers this flexibility is Bioelements, distributed in Australia by Absolute Spa (see back cover of this journal). While some companies argue that this is not safe because there is no stability or quality control, the fact is that these

products are formulated to accommodate these additions, so providing this phase is delivered with the company's own actives and serums for which they are designed to be compatible, the product will be stable. Another way that we are seeing this concept is through layering of products – introducing a serum to the cleansed skin, or an essential oil formula, allowing it to be absorbed then applying the correct moisturiser or nourishing cream. Both these concepts require the therapist to understand the skin at a deeper level and investigate the cause of the problem, not just the manifestation, before deciding on a solution. To achieve this level of customised care the skin will need to be assessed in detail each and every time there is a consultation. This approach is very different to the method of a standardised facial that is predetermined, predesigned and dictated by the manufacturer rather than the final decisions being made by the therapist, subject to the presented deficiencies at the time of the treatment. It is also more flexible, prescriptive and ultimately more accurate as a treatment concept. It puts the therapist in the driver's seat as the professional, a position that is currently under threat with the boom in products and equipment developments that attempt to lure consumers to purchase products and hand-held devices independent of professional advice.

PHOSPHOLIPIDS – THE NEW MULTI-FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENT Manufacturers are also now looking for ingredients in their skincare that perform multifunctional benefits. One such ingredient is phospholipids from hydrogenated soybean extract. In cosmetic products phospholipids can benefit the skin in many ways. As a technical ingredient phospholipid can be used as an emulsifier, a liposome former, a solubiliser and a wetting agent. On top of that phospholipids are cosmetic actives. As a biodegradable natural ingredient phospholipid molecules comprise a glycerol backbone that is esterfied at three stages with fatty acids and with phosphate. Due to its molecular structure, which is comprised of a hydrophilic part and a lipophilic part, phospholipids have a special amphiphilic character. When mixed with water, they also form various structures depending on the number of fatty acids esterfied to the glycerol backbone and the resulting geometry of the molecule. When only one fatty acid is esterfied to the glycerol backbone, the molecules

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are cone shaped and they are able to form micelles. As a cosmetic active, natural phospholipids isolated from soybean provide the essential fatty acids linoleic acid and linolenic acid. These are renowned for their ability to maintain the skin in healthy condition and to ameliorate skin disorders like acne valgaris and neurodermatitis, as well as slow down skin ageing. Furthermore, they play a role in liquefying the stratum corneum and act as penetration enhancers, delivering actives deeper into the skin. Another capability is that they act as compounds that strengthen the skin's barrier function. The availability of multi-functional natural phospholipids in various grades and modifications with control quality, provide the formulators with a valuable toolbox for designing optimal cosmetic products.

in the hands of consumers. This can be viewed both as a threat as well as an opportunity. Many of these devices will be lasers and lightbased devices, which is also a safety concern. As a result a new laser classification will be introduced by the International Electroclinical Commission (IEC) that will define hand-held lasers as Class1C in its draft revisions to IEC standard 60825-1. This is how seriously they are taking this new category.

In this issue of APJ you will also see the launch of the Power Hyaluronic by Skeyndor – another powerful ingredient that is now offering multi-functional benefits thanks to biotechnology. We know that hyaluronic acid is a natural protein found in abundance in babies and young skin. The unique feature of HA is that it can hold 1000 times its weight in water and therefore is a key component that contributes to the skin being able to maintain its own water content and therefore its hydration levels. It is the most powerful hydrating ingredient known to science, used in skincare and cosmetic injecables to fill in wrinkles. As skin ages, hyaluronic acid diminishes, resulting in a loss of elasticity that leads to the formation of wrinkles. When applied topically, hyaluronic acid holds water on to the surface of the skin, while allowing the skin to 'breathe'. Used topically, HA also reduces dryness, itching and burning of the skin and it offers an excellent environment for the growth of new cells and healing following skin peels and other cosmetic procedures.

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However, HA consists of large protein molecules that cannot penetrate the skin, so as a rule its function in skincare has been in fact as a barrier product protecting the skin from dehydration. Now biotechnology has removed this limitation. Science has found a way to change the molecular size and weight of HA so that it can penetrate the skin and reach the deeper layers of the skin. This now allows it to act as an effective anti-ageing ingredient. Introduced through a liposome or other trans-epidermal penetration means it can penetrate the stratum corneum and reach the reticular junction where it can target dehydration at a deeper level. What this means is that as a therapist you now should question the molecular weight of your hyaluronic acid products to determine how it can be used and to what level it can penetrate, as this will determine how its function will vary. This is another example of multi-functionality in product formulations.

EQUIPMENT AND MULTI-FUNCTIONALITY ㈵

Researchers of global trends tell us that over the next 2-3 years over $40 billion will be spent on the development of new hand-held devices for beauty and anti-ageing purposes that manufacturers intend putting

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These new devices will be made as a result of serious scientific research and will offer excellent results to a certain extent. However, they will lure consumers to be self-sufficient in their skin and body “anti-ageing routines”. Is this a treat or an opportunity to differentiate our services? Our only solution is to step-up Total our services to accommodate multi-functional 12.9 capabilities and to link them to customised professional advice. 4.4

Fatty acid In phase 1 (%) In phase 2 (%) C16.0 palmitic acid 24.0 1.7 C18.0 stearic acid 7.9 1.0 C18.1 oleic acid 10.9 10.0 10.5 C18.2 linoleic acid 52.4 80.6 66.5 C18.3 linolenic acid 4.7 6.7 5.7 Table 1: Fatty acid composition (mol. %) of SPC determined by enzymatic hydrolysis followed by gas-chromatography (1)

NEW MOLECULAR WEIGHTS IN HYALURONIC ACID

Here are just three examples of devices I would like you to refer to, to demonstrate my point by just by glancing through this issue of APJ.

First let's look at the AlphaShape available through Face Magic. It offers five functions – ultrasonic cavitation, radio frequency, vacuum suction for lymphatic drainage, mio-stimulation through Faradic current and cryotherapy. This device allows you to offer a range of therapies for effective fat-cell reduction, muscle toning and body sculpturing as well as facial toning and contouring.

The Venus Legacy, distributed by the Global Beauty Group, is another device with multi-functional capabilities for both face and body. It combines several technologies, including multi-polar radio frequency, pulsed electro-magnetic fields, VariPulse technology and RealTime Thermal feedback. The combined technologies produce dense uniform heat matrix for client/patient comfort and provide effect treatment of cellulite as well as face and body toning. The combined technologies work in fat lipolysis, while supporting the stimulation of neo-vascularity collagen synthesis and contraction as well as fibroblast proliferation. Skinlight by Sorisa, available through Vogue Image Group. This device merges the benefits of six technologies in one advanced unit. The multi-platform rejuvenation device features diamond-tipped microdermabrasion and vacuum suction, electroporation, photoporation and cryotherapy to address problems such as wrinkles, skin flaccidity, hyperpigmenation, stretch marks, scarring and excessive sebum secretion in oily skin. Skinlight is also fitted with a one-touch pen to measure hydration levels in the skin pre and posttreatment. Check out further details on these devices in this issue of APJ.

PREPARING TO MEET FUTURE CHALLENGES For those who grasp the significance of these changes the future has never looked better. New innovative developments have not only given consumers more choice, but also new options for the professional world. However, as consumers are constantly becoming more informed and educated we will need to also do the same. We are required to look at ways of retaining and growing our professional status as well-informed and trusted experts that consumers can continue to turn to for the best possible information on their best choices for improving their appearance and wellbeing. Meanwhile, our language has to change when communicating with our clients to demonstrate that we are indeed in line with these changes and can service them with the very latest advances.

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globalperspective ㄰

How to set your “Business Nets” to capture new clients and achieve

Higher Business Yield in 2014 By Tina Viney If you wish to retain your clients in 2014 and also grow your client database with new clients you may need to re-look and update your consumer and business perspective, as this may be the very thing that is holding you back from achieving your business's full potential. This article addresses the value of gaining the Global Perspective in helping you achieve your business growth. The beginning of a new year can be an exciting time when we can learn from past successes and failures and start planning to forge ahead with new goals and aspirations, drawing from the wisdom of experience. However, while setting goals is paramount to our achievements, it is equally critical that from time-to-time we take a step back and look at the change needed within us in order to be able to reach our aims more successfully.

It was Albert Einstein who said that the definition of insanity is to do the same thing over and over again and expect a different outcome. It is a phenomenon in our industry that the vast majority view their profession and their business predominantly through the practitioner perspective. You only have to look at which courses get filled up first to identify that the first ones that are taken up are those that teach procedures, for example, eyelash-extension courses or eyebrow techniques are the first to be booked out, while these are beneficial, subjects that address more conceptual issues such as industry overviews, consumer trends and statistics often fail to be viewed as important, and yet the future survival of a business may depend on it. In a constantly changing world, if we are to survive we need to first examine our own thinking and perspectives. Are our views of what is needed to survive outdated? Do we understand how consumers are changing in terms of what they perceive as their needs, their preferences to modes of communication and how and where they go to get their information that is shaping their views and expectations? Do we really understand consumer trends and what are the current statistics telling us about changes in perception that ultimately lead to changes in purchasing habits and preferences on what is a priority or important to the consumer.

WHAT IS THE GLOBAL PERSPECTIVE? ㄰

A global perspective is one that takes into account the effects of any decision on a universal or global scale. This is important because many decisions that are made in terms of product development and technology are based on such information. We are in fact a global community – each day consumers read what their favourite celebrity may wear or what procedure they have had, and these affect their choice on what they also want to take on board for their own appearance and wellbeing. In terms of treatments and products consumers today expect you to bring them the “best that the world had to offer” and not just the best your region has to offer.

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globalisation also becomes one of the most important forces for necessary change in business education, at all levels, but particularly at the undergraduate and professional Masters levels. The task force's call was for academic leadership to lead this change.

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The business community should also embrace this call to action. Developing and delivering a global education should aim to equip business owners to grasp the concepts that dictate and shape the commercial world that will ultimately affect them.

WHAT IS PERSPECTIVE? Perspective, on the other hand, is the way a person sees things. What a person sees may be different to what is really happening out there. Aligning our viewpoint and perspective to accommodate shifts in consumer spending and preferences is paramount to our survival, and one of the most critical issues that will influence whether we survive or fail as a business owner.

This information should be pursued through either academic means or conference programs in which businesses and practitioners alike can be brought up-to-date on global changes that will affect them. It would seem that many are fearful of moving out of their comfort

To obtain a global perspective it takes more than an understanding of worldwide business and consumer trends. It involves taking a broader, more critical view of experience, knowledge and learning. It includes seeking to realise the links between your own life and others throughout the world. What you do with the information you gain and how you apply it to your decision- making process will be critical. The value of acquiring a well-developed global view and perspective is now central to every business college and university student's academic training and experience. Such a worldview provides the context from which students can better analyse the social, political and economic events of history and their own generation. This worldview perspective will also provide the context for more informed decision-making in many facets of life as well as business decisions, such as “modus operandi” that will best meet the needs of potential clients that are part of a global community and influenced by global trends and perspectives.

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In fact, the global perspective is now embedded in nearly all new curriculums, as it inherently expands the mind of the student's broader base knowledge that becomes a fundamental building block for the formation of a wellrounded student. If the global perspective has now become part of academic requirements for future business graduates, how relevant and important is it also for the currently operating business persons?

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In an important study published by AACSB (Association to Advance Collegiate Schools of Business) in the US, the taskforce concluded that “globalisation is one of the most significant forces of changes for business”. By extension,

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zone, they are afraid to understand what the future is all about and as a result adopt the ostrich approach, burying their head in the sand and hoping that any changes will not affect them.

THE IMPACT ON OUR INDUSTRY So how does knowledge on the global perspective impact our professional and business world?

Philosophy: World-views and perceptions of what constitutes attractiveness and youthfulness do charge depending on cultural influences, shifts in trends and the development of product and equipment innovations. First of all we need to embrace the changes in philosophy and align our viewpoints to reflect what is indicated by global changes in perspectives. However, we cannot do that while busy performing our treatments. From time-to-time we need to step out and gain the broader perspective. Conferences such as APAN's Australian Aesthetics Conference programs recognising the importance of such perspectives, always include global trends as a key lecture at these events that offer clearly defined up-to-date information on what is happening globally in this space. They offer valuable insight based on global research and credible statistics that point to what changes we can expect in consumer purchasing habits.

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product. What that means is that rather than just pointing out the active ingredients the client is educated in appreciating that the product's ingredients will deliver several functions These may be anti-inflammatory properties, long-term hydration, protection, antioxidant benefits, etc. The new language, by reflecting what research is indicating about consumer preferences, will not only retain existing clients, but will also attract new ones as they will appreciate this approach.

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Communication with your clients: Based on this information a business can change their communication language to reflect a more modern approach to educating their clients that what they will be offering them will in fact reflect exactly what the client is looking for. For example, one trend is that consumers are looking for multi-functionality in a

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3. Treatment plan: Global trends are not just about skincare, they are equally about procedures and innovative technologies. The concept of multi-functionality is also spilling on to the treatment platforms. Combining technologies innovatively within one treatment plan will offer the kind of results that consumers are looking for, while allowing the business to customise an effective treatment package that can offer a much higher standard of treatment outcome.

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The new marketing language: Global changes in consumer

trends will not only change the language with which we communicate, but also our methods of communication. Embracing such changes can substantially allow us to capture more clients, while retaining our existing ones, instead of others taking advantage of our slow uptake of technology.

THE DOUBLE-PRONGED APPROACH I often speak to businesses who have hired businesses coaches to assist them with their business's performance, and at the end of the exercise feel disappointed that they did not achieve the results they anticipated. On the other hand, I also speak with business coaches who are frustrated when businesses do not implement the strategies they recommend. On a closer examination in those instances I have identified that the problem has not been in the marketing and promotional strategies, but rather in the lack of updated services they are delivering. As a result consumers are bored and unenthusiastic in responding to their marketing and promotional offerings and bypassing them for new and innovative services, strategies and techniques. Selling packages with six microdermabrasion treatments will no longer excite your clients. Furthermore, they are not only an outdated treatment option, but have actually proven to be detrimental to skin health as a stand-alone treatment. In other words modern marketing and business strategies will not get you the clients if what you are offering is outdated in concept and does no longer meet the needs of the astute consumer.

It is therefore important when reviewing the global perspective that you examine two specific areas: 1. Consumer trends – What are consumers currently looking for? This information must be backed by comprehensive research.

Complete Retail & Professional Aromatic Spa Body Rituals “Thai Herbal Healing” RRP $50 and under 100% Mark-up Formulated WITHOUT: Parabens, SLES, Petroleum Derivatives, Animal Products, Propylene Glycol, Artificial Fragrance & Colour. CRUELTY FREE!

2. Advances in technologies, methodologies and innovative techniques. Check that you are up-to-date with research findings, ingredients and technologies and the best way to implement them for exceptional results. This may require some formal education and training. Once you have brought yourself up-to-date in these two areas then you are ready for a dynamic marketing and promotional plan that will succeed.

Success is as much about having the right sequence of events in place as it is about implementing and working the plan to meet its objectives.

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If you would like to gain further information on gaining the global perspective and global trends contact APAN on info@apanetwork.com or ph: 07 5593 0360 This and other excellent topics will be covered in depth at their next APAN Australian Aesthetic Conference programs www.apanetwork.com

Dynamic Skin Solutions P: 02 9525 8368 E: info@dynamicskinsolutions.com.au W: www.dynamicskinsolutions.com.au


skinscience ㄰

STRATUM CORNEUM The Futuristic BATTLEGROUND FOR INGREDIENT APPLICATION By Terry Everitt This article poses not so much the answers, yet more importantly the questions. What is the future of skincare ingredients and those practised in not only the art, but also the science of skincare. What knowledge will be required in working successfully in skincare in this rapidly changing scientific age?

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Terry Everitt takes on the possible future and some of the present thought that needs to change for continued success in a more scientifically based skincare environment. In this article he addresses the epidermis. Hopefully in a future article he will share his knowledge of what actually happens in the dermis.

The array of biological interaction occurring is mindboggling and we do not even know most of what is happening in this stratified, nonvascularised epithelium of between 75 and 150 mm (up to 600 mm thick on palms/soles). It is no longer sufficient to think of the skin simply as the epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous. Each has 'sub layers' that are full of activity in both anabolism and catabolism. To be effective in specialist skincare, we need to know what is happening in the various layers to bring the specific 'antidote' to address the client's skin concern. No longer can we just throw on some moisturiser after a mask and hope for the best.

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The epidermis is not only the largest, but the most amazing bioactive organ we have, given its depth and the assaults it is constantly receiving each moment in time. It is the epidermis that provides much of how we represent ourselves to the world, providing visible evidence to all of how we care for our skin.

Not only is a knowledge base of ingredients required, but more importantly we need to understand how effective the epidermis is in keeping almost everything out. How does your product get into the skin layers when the prime responsibility of the epidermis and particularly the stratum corneum is to keep stuff from getting in?

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SKIN BARRIER(S) There are a number of individual barriers that interconnect when we think of the skin barrier. Actually 'the skin barrier' implies one; of course there are many different components to the barrier so we need to think of it in plural terms – skin barrier(s). These consist of: The physical barrier – being the responsibility of the individual corneocyte cells and their interconnection of the stratum corneum providing the external surface of the skin. The chemical barriers are in simplistic terms the 'acid mantle' and the Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF), both of which are comprised of a number of different chemicals.

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Then there are the secondary defence systems such as the immune and neuronal adaptations taking place to help protect the epidermis. These are helped underneath the epidermal junction by the vascular and lymphatics doing their function for barrier protection.

STRATUM CORNEUM Well gone are the days of thinking the stratum corneum is a dead layer of cells just waiting to fall off. The stratum corneum now is described in many ways, depending on the focus of observation. In the study of the corneum, it is regarded as two separate yet totally interconnected components – the stratum dysjunction and the stratum compactum. This distinction comes from the study of the laminar layers and the effect this has on the junctions between the individual cells. This in turn primarily rests with a group of lipids termed ceramides – perhaps the subject of another article. Did you know there are over 350 ceramide species in human skin that have been identified (Tobin 2005, Ishikawa et al 2013). Ultimately the corneum and other stratums of the epidermis can be thought of as a biophysical structure composed biologically as a hydro-proteal-lipid membrane. The hydro part is the water content, which is abundant in the lower layers of the epidermis and quickly reduces in the upper layers of the epidermis. This decrease becomes more pronounced in layers of the corneum. The proteal (protein) is comprised of keratin of which there are many types. K1 and K10 being the protein that forms the corneocytes resulting in the stratum compactum, having changed from K5 and K14 (primarily) that began forming the fibrils of keratin in the stratum granulosum. Deeper there is a host of amino acids that form the profribrials that finally end up as keratin that fills the cell, replacing all organelles and cytoplasm. Not any old lipid will do to maintain the lipid barrier there needs to be a combination of cholesterol, ceramides and free fatty acids required to be present in appropriate ratios, with more ceramides than the other two. We now know that ceramides account for approximately 50% of corneum lipids, followed by cholesterol and free fatty acids.

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Cholesterol is essential not only for lipid bilayer integrity, yet also for the manufacture of Vitamin D in the skin. At least half, if not more, of the fatty acids needing to be in the skin are polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA). The skin is an active metaboliser of these in creating more specific linoleic acid (Tobin 2005).

The understanding of the importance of lipid structure in particular is traced to a landmark study, where in part the conclusion stated: “The sequestration of lipids to intercellular domains and their organisation into a unique multilamellar system have broad implications for permeability barrier function, water retention, desquamation, and percutaneous drug delivery.” Elias & Menon (1991, p.25)

A NEW WORLD OF TERMINOLOGY APPROACHES There is a whole new world of technology bearing down on cosmetic chemistry, not only with ingredients, but also how these ingredients are being used, stabilised and their effectiveness on specific biological targets. This is in concert with new and more precise investigative analysis being available, such as normal phase liquid chromatography, electrospray ionisation and adaptations of mass spectrometry. These types of analysis can specifically determine where and how absorption takes place and the notion of ingredient reservoirs to be realised. With terminology increases, aestheticians will need to know and understand such things as glycation, sirtuins, aquaporines, matrix metalloproteinase, integrins and transglutaminase, along with various pathways that allow cell signalling such as the Fas-mediated pathway, tumour necrosis alpha (TNFa) pathway, and even how cells die via apoptosis mechanisms. We will no longer speak of hyper and hypopigmentation as broad indicators of dysfunction. We will be much more concerned with melanosome integrity and transferral rates of chemicals used to create melanin (and I don't mean tyrosine). We need to understand the various epigenetic co-factors at work that provide such different results in skin colour harmonisation. This results in needing a number of different topicals to target these specific biochemicals. In relation to working with melanin, it will be different targets we will reach, with DOPA (dihydroxyphenylalinine) becoming as common as tyrosine in our vocabulary. We will be surrounded by an alphabet of precursor ingredients, such as AP-1 (Activator protein-1 [as a transcriptase factor]), NF-kB (nuclear factor kappa B), NAD (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide), TIMPs (tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinase), TGF-β (transforming growth factor beta) as examples. We are moving beyond amino acids to nucleic acids and nucleotides; beyond enzymes to their cofactors and coenzymes adding to our alphabet of understanding. The new world which we will base our practice within, has already been entered with ingredients working at different aspects of stem cells for rejuvenation and even deoxyribonucleic acid, the DNA of cells. The nascent research in modulation of these will herald a new

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the skin's structure it is not doing what it is supposed to. Knowing what is happening at that layer allows formulation of effective treatment modalities and ingredient usage to affect that structure rather than being wasted on 'the skin' without affecting the target biological functioning.

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This not only rests with using the correct concentration and molecular size and composition of ingredients, but also in knowing and understanding the correct delivery method to ensure what you are using gets to where it needs to go for effectiveness. Even with the best ingredients, if they are not formulated in the correct molecular weight, then it is a waste of product use.

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DIFFERING SKINCARE PHILOSOPHIES

dimension of effective biologically based skincare, delivered in ways outside of a bottle and massage. Cosmetic chemistry and skincare has come a long way – the effectiveness of skincare product use rests on the most appropriate ingredient in the best delivery mechanisms for the underlying causative factors that provide the external manifestation. The role of genetics is great, but what we need to be concerned with is the role of epigenetics and how we can contribute to negating many of the follow-on effects of what our clients do. From my small vantage point, I believe most of the work ahead will be in combatting the sub-acute inflammation that causes disruption in the biological working of our skin and body.

A SHIFT IN APPROACH You do need to protect the skin from environmental damage, yet also help repair the skin, particularly if there is barrier damage. This is more than mere moisturising. The repair of the abnormality requires identification of what actually is causing the impaired barrier and then stimulating the skin to help repair itself. If this is not achieved, the client will always be reliant on stopgap measures of dysfunctional maintenance rather than a cure. We will fundamentally move from maintaining good skin to curing dysfunctional skin. The need is repair and renewal of epidermal cell growth along with the protective biological components in and between the cells. Without this action on your part, the client’s skin will always be in a dysfunctional state and without returning to normal homeostasis it will never be in a position simply to maintain a healthy skin environment.

While you may not consciously think in terms of individual biological processes occurring, you do need to work your magic on inter and intracellular functioning of biological process.

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Perhaps one of the best ways to do this is using skincare ingredients that to a large extent are part of the skin’s physiological makeup. You do, however, have to know what is happening in the skin and how the insults of both extrinsic and intrinsic environmental milieu are affecting the various layers of the skin and how best to treat this.

It is no longer sufficient or efficient just to put a moisturiser on the top of the corneum. To be truly effective you need to know at what level of

Without having cosmetic chemistry scientific-based knowledge it is incredibly difficult to discern between the various product lines out there and their skincare philosophies. Exfoliation is a classic example – some skincare lines are all about exfoliation, while others are against it. Each appears to provide reasoned explanation as to why their way is best, yet contradicting the other. So called experts abound, generally because they are pushing a particular product line. It is therefore important to know that the information received regarding a product will be skewered towards the ingredients in the product. Some push Vitamin A, others Vitamin C, others only concern themselves with enzymes as the way forward. Some have fancy names such as corneotherapy or dermafusions to explain their way of getting good skin out of their bottles of potions and lotions. The truth is, they are all correct. However, the issue of their effectiveness will totally depend on exactly what is the client's skin presentation that they are concerned with and what is the fundamental biological process that is causing it. Many waste valuable time in treating the presentation and not what is causing it. Historically that is all we could do – provide moisture or such. With today's armenterium of ingredients, there are no individual products that can do everything; let alone for everybody. You need an array of ingredients and skincare philosophies to combat the disruptive biological processes occurring across a wide range of client concerns and skin presentations. Sometimes this will mean heavy exfoliation just to get rid of many layers of tissue quickly, at times removal of the desmosomes between the cells is the way to go using an AHA; other times for a different skin perhaps a better result will be with enzymes that can dissolve the keratin of the cell. Sometimes exfoliation by any means will be contraindicated and use of specific bio-identical fatty acids will be sufficient. The use of specific surfactants in a cleanser may be the disrupting causative factor, or on the other hand, knowing what surfactant does what can be effectively used to repair the damage, insofar as mediating the individual lipids and indeed actually replenishing them. (Ananthapadmanabhan, Chander & Mukherjee 2013) ㄰

Complicate this with sebum content or skin gender or age – all will make a difference in your thinking and ingredient use.

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IT'S NOT JUST THE PRODUCT, BUT HOW TO USE IT While we will have an ever-increasing armamentarium of care components, the single most ineffective complication in all of this is the client. Having the most scientifically advanced ingredients in the bio-

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identical molecular format specific to the target molecules you need to interact with, will all be useless unless the client knows and understands what to do with it. Sensitive skin frequently is a result of using inappropriate skincare; either specific ingredients or the complete product that is incorrect for the client's skin, which weakens the innate skin barrier. The client may in fact be using skincare prescribed for them three or so years ago, which is no longer appropriate for the skin condition as it is presently. Another complication is that the client may not be using the correct skincare products in the way they are supposed to be used. You will be amazed at what they get up to with their skincare products, resulting in lack of effectiveness and efficiency. Of course they are now going to blame the products or you for the lack of progress. When was the last time you asked your client ‘How and when are you using the [insert product name]?’ Fortunately I learnt to ask this question early in my career, which has prevented a number of mistakes being made. I have had clients using really aggressive scrubs daily; putting the moisturiser on first then washing the skin, thinking this would help the skin dryness (and not putting the moisturiser on after washing). I even had one who used a chemical peel as a face wash. Generally, most therapists tell the client at the end of the service (when they are not actually concentrating) about all the wonderful products they need to be using at home. While it makes perfect sense to you, they can and will forget what goes where and when so will decide for themselves what to use and when frequently not the same as you told them.

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Handy hint; Homecare routine should always be written for the client, not just stated verbally. This written instruction must be simple and clear to understand 1. Use [insert product] …where…when…how; 2. Use [insert product] …where…when…how.

CONCLUSION The acquisition of knowledge in the bio sciences will be essential for the practitioners of effective skincare. Knowing the difference in the skin's structural ability and capability will provide the scaffolding to base efficient care specific to the client's needs.

therapy to move into the present and beyond. Tomorrow brings a host of new possibilities in techniques, equipment and ingredients, just to name a few. A deeper knowledge base is required in the understanding of this horizon – an understanding of the biological sciences that will base all that you do. The concepts of intrinsic and extrinsic ageing will no longer be relevant, it will matter not the broad categories we now use. The specific interactions occurring are our target, what is happening now and where; how can we modulate this will be the basis and the importance of care. Sub-acute inflammatory and oxidative stress will be the new mantra – what is happening to what structure and what then is the best way to help that structure return to homeostasis. The structure, however, is not 'the skin', but the individual microscopic structure of the cellular membrane, or specific organelles within the membrane or the cytoplasm. Modulating the signalling pathways or the multitude of enzymes and co-factors is the future. Hopefully, I will live to see the scientifically trained skincare specialist involved in the broader area of health science, having at their disposal a deep knowledge of (and use of) client care based not on folklore, but solid evidence-based aesthetic science.

REFERENCES Ananthapadmanabhan, K. P., Chander, P., Mukherjee, S. 2013. 'Stratum corneum fatty acids: their critical role in preserving barrier integrity during cleansing', International Journal of Cosmetic Science, Vol. 35. No. 4. pp. 337345. Elias, P. M. Menon, G. K. 1991. 'Structural and lipid biochemical correlates of the epidermal permeability barrier', Advanced Lipid Research, vol.24, pp: 1-26. Ishikawa, J. Shimotoyodome, Y. Ito, S. Miyauchi, Y. Fujimura, T. Kitahara, T. Hase, T. 2012. 'Variations in the ceramide profile in different seasons and regions of the body contribute to stratum corneum functions', Archives of Dermatological Research. Published on line, 18 Sept 2012. Tobin, D. J. 2005. 'Biochemistry of human skinour brain on the outside' Chemical Society Reviews. First published as an Advance Article on the web 26th October 2005.

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Many of us will need to distance ourselves from the history of beauty

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treatmentprotocol The choice of a mild cleansing agent is important in the adjunctive management of various skin conditions, such as atopic dermatitis, acne vulgaris, rosacea and photoageing. The three major categories of cleansing agents are soaps, synthetic detergents and lipid-free cleansing agents, usually in gel form. Agents with slightly acidic or neutral pH, non-ionic surfactants and minimal skin residue may be preferable for people who are at increased risk for irritancy reactions.

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THE SKIN`S NATURAL FLORA The natural flora of skin is made up of bacteria such as Staphylococcal aureus, Streptococcus, Epidermis bacteria, Corynebacteria and Propionibacteria to name a few. In fact there are over 100 species of bacteria that live on the skin. I know this is going to make you want to have a long shower, but most of them are there to protect us from disease.

The Ritual and Purpose of

There are different bacteria that reside in different areas of our bodies, for instance the bacteria that resides on the outside of the elbow will be different to the bacteria that resides on the inside of the elbow. The skin cells are the same, but the bacteria is different, hence on the outside there is more tendency to develop psoriasis and on the inside there would be more tendency to develop eczema. Considering the skin cells in both areas are the same it is the bacteria that can cause the problems.

SKIN CLEANSING By Gay Wardle Your skin performs very important functions that help to keep the body healthy every day, yet too often the crucial ritual of cleansing the skin is either overlooked or performed inadequately. As skin therapists we know that it is important to cleanse away makeup, dirt and other debris from the skin before applying serums and creams to the skin or performing treatments. What I would like to cover in this article is how well do you cleanse the skin before performing invasive treatments, as well as cleansing for non-invasive treatments, and the significance of this all important step.

I have already mentioned that we need bacteria living on the surface of our skin to prevent disease and other bacteria entering our bodies.

HARSH SURFACTANTS IN CLEANSERS CAN CAUSE DAMAGE

Okay, now let us think about some of the treatments that we perform and how we are cleansing the skin prior to these treatments.

Cleanser technology has come a long way from the old harsh formulations. Today, cleansers are formulated to offer additional benefits such as pH balancing the skin and even moisturising it as well.

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It is known that harsh surfactants in cleansers can cause damage to skin proteins and lipids, leading to tightness, dryness, barrier damage, irritation and itch. In order for cleansers to provide skincare benefits, they first must minimise surfactant damage to skin proteins and lipids. Second, they must deposit and deliver beneficial agents such as occlusives, skin lipids and humectants under wash conditions to improve skin hydration, as well as mechanical and visual properties. While all surfactants tend to interact to some degree with lipids, their interaction with proteins can vary significantly. Surfactants that cause significant skin irritation interact strongly with skin proteins. The pH of the cleanser can also have an impact on irritation and dryness to the skin. Mildness enhancers and moisturising agents such as lipids, occlusives and humectants minimise damaging interactions between surfactants, skin proteins and lipids, and thereby reduce skin damage. Furthermore, these agents play an ameliorative role, replenishing the skin lipids lost during the cleansing.

Keratinocytes require Toll-like receptor 3 (TLR3) to have a normal inflammatory response to injury, and this response is kept from becoming too aggressive by staphylococcal.

CLEANSING FOR INVASIVE TREATMENTS Skin needling: In this procedure we are penetrating the skin and anything on the surface of the skin can be pushed into the deeper layers of the skin if the skin is not cleansed correctly. For instance the needle is puncturing the skin's surface and can give a portal of entry to bacteria that should not enter the skin. The result could be an infection or the start of some other skin disorder. To correctly cleanse the skin for these treatments you would first use hand hygiene yourself. Have a different throw-away cleansing applicator (preferably gauze) for each area that you will be cleansing and only go in one direction, for instance cleanse the forehead in one direction and throw the applicator away. Then continue to cleanse each area in that way. Cleanse the T-zone going in one direction and throw away the applicator, cleanse one side of the face going in one direction and throw away the applicator, then move onto the other side and then the neck and so on. Each time apply the cleansing solution you are using to the applicator.

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You should have clean water for each area as well. Never re-dip your applicator into used water.

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These steps are just as essential when cleaning the area also posttreatment. Each time you touch something else other than the patient’s skin you must use hand hygiene to prevent contaminating the skin. Even if you wear gloves you must use an alcohol rub.

This practice should be used for all your invasive treatments i.e microdermabrasion, skin peels, anything where you will be disrupting the corneum layer. Now you might think this will be adding extra time and cost to your treatments, but if you are pricing your treatments correctly then you will not have an issue with this. Your patients will see that you are practising strong hygiene methods in your business and that will give you credibility.

CLEANSING FOR NON-INVASIVE TREATMENTS Develop a protocol that relaxes your client prior to the commencement of cleansing. It might be massaging the scalp for a minute or two before touching the skin, or placing a tissue over the eyes with the scent of a relaxing essential oil. Hand hygiene, clean water and throwaway applicators are just as essential for this type of cleanse as they are for invasive cleansing. I have found that while the face is generally well cleansed the nasal area tends to be a little neglected. This area is often a concern for your

client where they complain of comedones, so it is extremely important to pay as much attention to the poor old nose as you do to the rest of the face.

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REFLECTORS IN MAKEUP Refectors that are found in makeup are not easy to remove with cleansing. which could pose a problem when treating the skin with laser or IPL devices. Where you may have a client that wears makeup with reflectors you might need to cleanse more than the normal recommended two cleansers. Most makeup today, including certain tinted moisturisers, have minute reflector particles. These are like tiny little mirrors on which light bounces off giving the illusion that the skin is more radiant. However, when using light-based therapies such as IPL/Laser or LED, if you do not remove this makeup you are in fact restricting the light from achieving its purpose. Think about that.

CONCLUSION Remember, correct facial cleansing always starts with performing hand hygiene. There is a government site where you can download charts and information on correct hand hygiene. This site is www.hha.org.au/handhygiene Use clean water each time. If you use contaminated water to rinse your applicator you run the risk of cross-contamination. If your client has a reaction it could be something as simple as how you cleansed their skin. It all comes down to best practice and attention to detail and this includes a correctly performed cleansing protocol.

Advance your knowledge and education to a higher level. MDA is now offering Post-Graduate courses to empower you for greater treatment results and business growth.

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With the advances in new equipment and skincare technology, heightened awareness by consumers and the collaboration between professional aesthetics and medical and anti-ageing practices there is now the need for education and specialised Post-Graduate training to support and deliver higher levels of expertise and advanced results.

Gay Wardle is without question today's leading and most influential educator in Australia. Winner of over 12 industry and business awards, she has a strong understanding of the aesthetics industry and the elements that are necessary for a successful salon or aesthetic practice.

Gay Wardle has launched a new training MASTERCLASS PROGRAM in 2011 to equip and empower you to make the transition with greater confidence into the realm of advanced treatment protocols for greater treatment outcomes.

Constantly investing in her own education and knowledge, she is not only passionate about training but has a Bachelor's qualification with Victoria University.

MASTERCLASSES IN DERMAL TRAINING INCLUDE: ! One-day Insight into Skin Evaluation ! Two-day Insight into Skin Evaluation ! Three-day Journey to Understand and Empower your Knowledge in Advanced Skin Evaluation ! Skin Preparation Programs to Optimise Results from IPL, Needling and Microdermabrasion ! Treatments to Target Pigmentation ! Understanding Ageing in the Skin and Treatments for Ageing Skin

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TRAINING DATES: PERTH 13 & 14 April 2014 | DARWIN 15 & 16 May 2014 ㈵

ENROL TODAY

Training Available in most States. For further details and to book

Visit www.masterdermalacademy.com.au | Email: gay@m-da.com.au or info@masterdermalacademy.com.au

Ph: 0418 708 455

formerly Advanced Aesthetics

Masters Dermal Academy


starperformer ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Dr Spiller SKINCARE has many loyal advocates including some famous faces you may know. Here are some testimonials.

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“Working in media and T.V industry as a hairdresser and makeup artist for 22 years I'm up close and personal with a different actor, presenter or celebrity every day and I'm always being asked, ‘What products do you recommend?’ “After personally using Dr. Spiller Scrubs, Cleansers, Toners and Moisturisers for quite a few months I have now added the range into my professional makeup kit and feel confident recommending it to the faces I touch. Living in a very harsh climate here in Australia, most skin I come across is undermoisturised or often left feeling dry shortly after moisturising due to using an inadequate product. That's why my absolute personal favourite is the Dr. Spiller Collagen Cream, it keeps my skin moist and plump all day, every day…I love it…and recommend it!”

MICHELE SCOTT – CELEBRITY MAKEUP ARTIST & HAIRDRESSER ㄰

“As a medical clinic, we understand the role “I have known Sue for several years now and good skincare plays in achieving a total right away I was impressed with her wealth result. We have used Dr. Spiller for the last of knowledge around skincare, and how the two years and our patients have never been products worked. I followed her instructions happier. Dr. Spiller delivers excellent postafter my first facial and the results were operative care while providing daily skincare visible within weeks. I quickly replaced the maintenance. With such an extensive range to more expensive, but ineffective brands I had treat so many skin conditions, we are always been using until then. Dr. Spiller is a brilliant able to provide the right treatment and product and really gets into the skin healing homecare prescription for increased skin the problem from the inside in. I would quality.” highly recommend it to anyone, especially DR. WILLIAM MOONEY MBBS FRACS FAAFPS for problem skin or ageing skin. Sue is also a delight to deal with, and makes the facial FACEPLUS MEDISPA experience a rewarding one. Her expertise, encouragement and her ability to focus on your individual needs makes you feel you are in safe and capable hands indeed. “Dr. Spiller is a brilliant product and really gets under the skin treating the problem quickly and balancing the skin. I would highly recommend it to anyone, especially for problem skin or ageing skin.”

HELEN KAPALOS – TV PRESENTER

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DR. SPILLER BIOMIMETIC Collagen Cream RRP $120.00

When dehydrated, dry and tight, the skin requires special support, and this popular antiageing cream has earnt its nickname “Blue Rules” thanks to the cream's distinctive blue colour, which is derived from calming azulene (German Chamomile). This concentrated emulsion, rich in collagen hydrolysates, is a powerful anti-oxidant with moisture-binding properties that provide the skin with long-lasting anti-ageing moisture protection. The skin appears plump, smooth and radiant.

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Biomimetic Skin Care

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11/02/14 4:41 PM


From Strength to Strength It's been little over two years since Australian Skin Clinics launched its first franchise concept clinic in Queensland but their brand success has taken the industry by storm. In this follow up interview we asked CEO Deb Farnworth-Wood what she attributes to the success of their brand.

Deb Farnworth-Wood

We speak to Australian Skin Clinics CEO, Deb FarnworthWood, about the lessons and challenges in growing a successful franchise.

What was the most difficult part of growing the franchise? The three years work that we did in preparing to launch the first clinic. Many franchised businesses develop the rules as they go along but this creates disharmony with the franchisees. We wanted to have the right model from the beginning and so we researched successful international franchise models and identified traits that made them successful.

What are your current challenges? I have three challenges currently: Recruitment, training and sourcing premises. 1. Recruitment is a particular issue in Queensland. Although we receive literally dozens of applications each week we find that the candidates rarely have the laser licensing required in Queensland. 2. Training of new franchise staff is time consuming and relentless, but we have a great training team who work tirelessly to bring staff up to our standards. Every new staff member, no matter their background, goes through our own training program to make sure that they understand the Australian Skin Clinics’ way.


3. In sourcing premises there seems to be the belief that "any place will do". It's just not true. We are very particular about the locations we choose, the demographic of the area and the surrounding businesses. Our site selection policy is very specific and often we disappoint would-be franchisees by rejecting their proposed area.

Where do you acquire your franchisees? Mostly word of mouth. Five of our first six franchisees are already looking for their next clinic and we receive a steady stream of enquiries. Several of our staff are opening clinics in the future too. For the right staff member we also provide part equity options to make it easy to buy into a clinic.

Who are your ideal franchisees and what strengths do you look for? Our existing franchisees are a mixed group. We have doctors, nurses, laser technicians and investors. We look for ambitious people with the drive and business acumen to grow their business while at the same time being able to follow our pre-defined model.

Any advice for a therapist looking to open their own clinic and why would taking on an Australian Skin Clinic be an attractive proposition to them?

Firstly do your homework on the area you want to be in and secondly make sure you have all the business skills you are going to need. In your own business you need to be the marketing, buying, merchandising, book keeping and IT departments all rolled into one when probably all you really want to do is treat your clients! In a franchise situation you have the skill set of a larger specialist head office team behind you and streamlined administration allowing you to concentrate on your clients and your sales.

You mentioned international franchising does this mean you plan to be the next global brand? Its early days yet but we are receiving a number of overseas enquiries. For now though, we are concentrating on growing our Australian business.

For more information about the franchise visit www.ozskin.com/franchise or phone the head office 07 5509 0000 to find out more. For career opportunities, visit www.ozskin.com/careers


conferencereport ㄰

Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference By Tarnya Grice November 2013 saw another successful educational event – the 9th National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference, supported by the Australasian College of Aesthetic Medicine and the Australasian Society of Aesthetic Medicine, once again attracted medical, dermal and aesthetic professionals in search of the latest education on a variety of diverse topics. The event was held at the Sofitel Wentworth Hotel in Sydney and was proud to support the Nepal Reconstructive Program run by Health Outreach, Sydney Adventist Hospital. Incorporating product demonstrations at the exhibition floor allowed delegates to interact with relevant companies on the latest technologies and devices. Concurrently a Paramedical Workshop sponsored by Device Consulting was also conducted. The workshop included a Laser Safety Officer Certificate training and the Paramedical program focused on aspects of IPL and Laser treatments. In addition VIVA an RTO provided an interactive training session on CPR.

Combining over 20 exhibitors ranging from education providers to skincare products and devices gave delegates the opportunity to advance their knowledge through the various aspects of the conference. The conference provided a comprehensive two-day informationpacked program with a variety of lecture topics on cosmetic and aesthetic medicine. Key topics included: ! Stem Cell and Anti-Ageing medicine ! Laser, including fractionated laser technologies and non-ablative lasers ! Surgical and non-surgical management of skin cancer ! Injectable Dermal Fillers and Varicose Vein Treatments ! Regulatory advances

HERE ARE SOME HIGHLIGHTS OF THE CONFERENCE:

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Stem cells in Aesthetic Medicine presented by Dr Ralph Bright

Dr Bright spoke about the “Stem Cell Facelift”. He explained the benefits of combining multiple modalities such as stem cells with laser and fat transfer as an extremely synergistic option. He explained how stem cells can help reverse ageing and how critical telomere length is now available to determine cell age and allow practitioners to determine cell age before and after treatment.

Liposuction/Liposculpture – Old and New, presented by Dr Michael Rich Dr Rich addressed various techniques that can assist in removing pockets of fat through liposuction/liposculpture that are hard to remove by other means such as diet and exercise. He explained how techniques have now varied and that numerous devices are being used to enhance results, both in volume removal and to enhance other retractions. He also address the issue of efficacy and safety.

Laser Tattoo Removal presented by Dr Adam Rish Dr Rish presented a paper on the history of tattoos and tattoo removal. It focused on the methods, rationale, protocols, limitations and clinical outcomes of laser

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tattoo removal using nanosecond Q-Switch lasers that offer a very high level of patient satisfaction. He stated that the number of treatments required for tattoo removal is increasing the interval between treatments to at least three months.

Autologous PRP, the right stuff for surgical and non-surgical tissue rejuvenation, also combined with lasers, by Dr Robin Chok Dr Chok stated that one of the safest and efficient additions to manage the ageing process in aesthetic medicine is the treatment of living fresh autologous cells obtained from the patient's own platelet-rich plasma (PRP). PRP also contains specific white cells (monocytes and lymphocytes) with all plasmatic proteins (Fibrin) and is also referred to as autologous platelet gel, plasma- rich growth factors (PRGFs) or autologous platelet concentrate. He explained that apart from platelet-derived growth factors, PRP contains many factors essential for cell survival such as nutrients, vitamins, hormones, electrolytes and proteins. PRP can be applied immediately after ablative laser and chemical peeling to shorten the downtime of oedema, inflammation, pain and the risk of infection.

International progress in standards and regulation for light-based home use devices, presented by Dr Godfrey Town Dr Town discussed how the recent development of light-based laser and intense light devices for consumer use has raised new challenges in safety standards and regulatory requirements for those applications. A new laser classification will be introduced by the International Electroclinical Commission (IEC) defining a new laser Class1C in its draft revisions to IEC standard 60825-1.

New grounds for the treatment of acne and acne scarring presented by Dr Davin Lim Dr Lim presented novel methods of treating acne on low-dose isotretinoin with subablative lowjoule RadioFrequency. His lecture was followed by a demonstration.

The 10th National Laser & Cosmetic Medicine Conference will be held at the Sofitel on Collins, Melbourne 15th and 16th November 2014. For further details visit http://www.dcconferences.com .au/lcmc2014/

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Spotlight on Careers

Laser Technician Lucy

When did you go into the beauty industry and why?

I enrolled in a Beauty Diploma in New Zealand. During my first year of training my Beauty Tutor introduced me to the advanced side of the aesthetic industry as she worked with a Cosmetic Surgeon. This fueled my interest in this exciting side of the beauty industry.

What is it that you love about your current role?

I love that I have been given the opportunity to receive extensive laser training – I have completed a laser safety course (accredited and run by Australian Skin Clinics), undertook many logged hours of practical, supervised training and received my laser license. I also get great satisfaction from being able to give my clients advice and treatments that really help them with their skin concerns.

Where do you see yourself in five years?

In five years I would like to be in a treatment training role with Australian Skin Clinics, and be well on my way to owning my own Australian Skin Clinic.

What is the best part about working with Australian Skin Clinics?

The staff are so talented and to be able to work within a team that functions so well together is such a pleasure. Also the opportunities that I have been given to train in a wide range of treatments has broadened my knowledge and allowed me to plan my future career like never before.

Recruitment: www.ozskin.com/careers | Franchising: www.ozskin.com/franchise | 1300 303 014


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Radiofrequency (RF) energy treatment is technology for nonsurgical tightening of the early signs of loose or sagging skin; ideal for those people who either don't want or don't believe they are old enough to have a surgical procedure.

looking for a natural improvement and are not yet ready for a surgical face-lift.

Radiofrequency (RF) can accomplish a number of goals for both face and body. It can tighten the skin, contour it, and also encourage new healthy collagen to be stimulated, helping the skin regain its volume.

Pure RF energy alone (such as the Accent™, Pelleve™, Thermage™ and Tripollar™ devices) is primarily used to treat skin laxity by facial Radiofrequency By Tina Viney tightening, and is best warms the underlying suited to patients with mild to moderate sagging of facial tissues, layers of the skin to approximately 40-50 degrees Celsius stimulating usually those in their mid 30s to early 60s, with any skin colour. It is and activating the body's natural collagen. Modern devices usually commonly used to treat the forehead, under the eyes, cheeks, midalso have cryotherapy capabilities that successfully cool the skin and face, jawline, and neck. keep it comfortable. The device is merely placed on the target area, face and neck, and creates a sensation of deep heating. This does result The use of RF (Radio Frequency) in medical and non-medical in the patient feeling a slight heating sensation, but not as severe as aesthetic is not new. As a surgical tool, RF energy is found in almost laser or IPL. every operating theatre around the world. Beauty Therapists have utilised RF energy for electrolysis since the early 1900s. Once the collagen reaches the right temperature, it both rises to the upper layers of the skin and also tightens. The entire Radiofrequency method process can be done in 30 minutes to one hour. While NEW ADVANCES IN RADIOFREQUENCY TECHNOLOGY immediate results of lifting can be seen, the process of the collagen In the early1990s laser skin resurfacing was a popular cosmetic stimulation will continue for several months. Also, as the collagen is procedure that involved the use of lasers with selected wavelengths activated, new strands will grow to take their place within the lower highly absorbed by water. Laser parameters were controlled in such a dermal layer. This is why the full effect of the Radiofrequency manner that their energy was contained within the highly water-based treatment cannot be seen immediately, but rather after three to six epidermis, however, it was noted that a certain amount of heat months after the first treatment. conducted through to the dermis. Clinical studies determined that this

New advances in Radiofrequency for

SKIN TIGHTENING & BODY SHAPING

heat was directly responsible for the production of fibreblasts resulting in the formation of new collagen. This new collagen thickened the dermis and added renewed elasticity, helping to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improving the overall skin texture. In the right hands this procedure today still delivers excellent clinical outcome, but lost favour due to lengthy recovery and risk of hypopigmentation. However, the cosmetic benefit of heating the dermis has not been overlooked. One of the first non-ablative applications of RF as an alternative to Light-based technologies in aesthetics was to drive heat into the dermis while retaining the integrity of the epidermis. Initially Radiofrequency devices were designed to address facial skin rejuvenation. However, with continued competition device manufacturers are outperforming each other with new and better performing product innovations. One such technology is RF, as we now find radio-frequency capabilities in devices that can perform several functions both for skin tightening as well as body reshaping when combined with other technologies such as ultrasonic cavitation and cryotherapy.

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The Radiofrequency method process helps to firm the face, especially along the jowls and upper neck, and tighten the eyes, reducing creeping of the skin and hooding, and cuts down on the under-eye bagginess. Treatment recommendations are usually 4-6 treatments, depending on the condition of the skin, and for the body 10 treatments are usually recommended. Results usually last for around two years, however, they can vary depending on several factors such as the client's age, physical condition, frequency of sun exposure, smoking, how much weight they lose or gain as well other health and lifestyle factors. RF can also be successful combined with injectables if required, but these must be performed 48 hours after an RF treatment. RF offers wonderful non-surgical face-lifting benefits for ageing skin and can be delivered alone or in conjunction with other technologies. It can improve the appearance of ageing skin by up to 10 years and provides an amazing tool for skin improvement and facial contouring. When present in multi-platform devices RF can successfully perform body reshaping and skin toning. As you will see from my article on multifunctionality, the spectrum of treatment options are numerable and can deliver noteworthy and impressive skin and body improvement.

RADIOFREQUENCY FOR FACIAL TONING ㄰ 㤵

Radiofrequency works by sending heat into the deep, subcutaneous layer under the skin, stimulating collagen production in the dermis. This is a most natural approach to firming and tightening the skin without using any invasive procedures.

Faces usually require skin tightening rather than fat reduction, although some clients do have a small fatty deposit below the jawline. Radiofrequency soundwaves are a safe, non-invasive way of tightening loose or lax skin around the forehead, eyes, cheeks, mouth, jawline, jowls and also the area under the chin/neck. This is a great way of reducing fine lines and wrinkles, enlarged pores and improving skin tone/texture and dull skin. It is suited to individuals who are

SIDE-EFFECTS There are no known side-effects with RF treatment, but there have been some reports of slight redness at the treatment area, small swelling or bumps, and even tiny heat blisters. None have been reported as lasting more than a few days. However, pregnancy, epilepsy and metal implants are standard precautionary contraindications.

Radiofrequency without a doubt is a valuable tool for salons or clinics who wish to provide immediate and long-lasting results and continue to offer consumers results they can be satisfied with.

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starperformer ㄰ 㤵 㜵

®

Cosmelan by mesoestetic The No 1. Melasma Treatment Worldwide Is Now Available in Australia Hyperpigmentation or dark spots (an accumulation of melanin) are one of the most common yet difficult to treat skin conditions. These dark patches can be caused by a number of factors such as genetic predisposition, ageing or hormonal changes, etc. This skin disorder mostly affects women for various reasons, such as pregnancy, menopause, physical changes and endocrine disorders. Another common cause of dark patches on the skin is exposure to the sun's UV radiation. This exposure can lead to the formation of new pigmentation on the skin and to the worsening of already existing ones. The sun is the leading cause of the dreaded brown spots. However, dermatologists agree that excessive sun tanning is not the only cause of skin damage as generally believed; the main source of damage is daily exposure to sunlight. mesoestetic®, a leading specialist in cosmetic medicine, now offers an intensive anti-spot treatment that has become a world standard in the field of dermatology thanks to its effectiveness and reliability. Formulated for the Australian market, Cosmelan® is an effective topical skin brightening treatment that helps to visibly lightens dark spots and blemishes caused by excess melanin in the skin. Its cutting edge formula has been designed to achieve maximum efficacy. The Cosmelan® method acts on the cells that are responsible for skin, pigmentation, Cleverly slowing down melanin production in hyperpigmented areas and thereby helping to lighten unsightly blemishes and spots.

THE COSMELAN® TREATMENT IS A TWO-STAGE PROCESS: STAGE 1: Professional treatment in the salon or clinic and, STAGE 2: Home-care treatment pack.

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This all-encompassing treatment, features a highly effective formula that helps interrupt the main steps in the melanin synthesis pathway. During treatment, however, it is important to protect the skin at all times using an ultra-high SPF sunscreen and reapply it regularly throughout the day. This will ensure that the treatment is effective as it helps prevent hyperpigmentation.

RESULTS After the second or third week of treatment with Cosmelan® the appearance of the skin is visibly improved. The spots are lighter and less noticeable while the skin has a more youthful appearance and radiant glow. The Cosmelan® treatment has an effectiveness rate of 95% in 99% of the cases of skin spots and hyperpigmentation. With significant research conducted into the treatment’s efficacy, Cosmelan® is a proven, highly effective and accessible solution to combat this common skin condition.

For further information please contact Advanced Cosmeceuticals on 1800 242 011 or visit www.advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au

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Spotlight on Careers

Franchisee Kerry-Ann

Why did you choose the beauty industry?

My first role was working with Myer on their management training program and then with Clinique as Counter Manager. I then studied Beauty Therapy to gain better understanding of the skin, and went on to be the Queensland Trainer for Clinique.

What is it that you love about being a franchisee? Every day you learn something new, but by far the most exciting part is watching your business grow to the point that you need more lasers and equipment and more staff to accommodate the volume of clients you have.

What advice would you give others choosing to follow you into the aesthetic industry?

Immerse yourself in learning and keeping up to date with research and treatment information. Have a clear direction of where you would like to be in one year, and a long-term plan in place for yourself too.

Where do you see yourself in five years?

I am now looking to open two more Australian Skin Clinics, in Melbourne and the Gold Coast, in collaboration with another staff member who is just as passionate about this industry that we work in.

What is the best part about working with Australian Skin Clinics?

Working with a group of driven professionals who are task focused in a friendly team-oriented work environment. This stems from our CEO who works tirelessly to empower all her staff to be the best they can be, and she provides continual training available. It feels asthough we are all part of an amazing journey as we grow and expand throughout Australia.

Recruitment: www.ozskin.com/careers | Franchising: www.ozskin.com/franchise | 1300 303 014


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Our APAN members are committed professionals who strive for excellence in their profession. They value their work and the importance of accurate information to achieve their objectives and goals. As an organisation we invest in ensuring we offer them accurate information and the best possible support. In return we acknowledge and recognise their commitment to the profession, and so in every issue of APJ we profile an individual as well as a business to capture a little about who they are and their views and experiences. Here we spoke to Maria Rabaka from Laser Training Academy in Sydney.

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APJ Q1: Maria, tell us a little about your background and how you got involved in the industry and what is your current position? Maria: I spent the first 20 years of my career in the aviation industry before I entered the educational side by default. It all started 15 years ago when I had completed a Nail Technology workshop as a hobby and was playing around with family and friends doing their nails. While on maternity leave with Qantas, a colleague asked if I was interested in teaching the subject at TAFE. I completed appropriate qualifications and spent the next six years doing this. I was very fortunate to gain full-time permanent employment in an organisation that had just opened its own RTO. I began as a compliance administrator and found that I was interested in qualifying to perhaps one day deliver training in more advanced courses such as SIB70110 VGC in IPL and Laser Hair Reduction. Since our plans of expansing nationally, I have been given the role of the legislative compliance person to instruct the company and our new franchisees of regulatory requirements. This is a very exciting time for us.

member profile

APJ Q2: From your experience what do you believe is the biggest challenge that salons have today, please explain? Maria: The biggest challenge that I believe salons have is getting the balance right between working ethically, while at the same time surviving as a business. The fact is owners/operators need to be accredited with current qualifications, stay informed on local health requirements and perform hygienic practices, as well as provide treatments that can guarantee results. These issue should be given equal consideration to pricing and profits. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Today, many businesses have primarily focused on price undercutting, which has been driven by the activity of the group buying sites. To survive with the pressures they are constantly discounting and as a result they have engaged in bad practices and dropped their standards. This has led to a deterioration of their reputation and in the end these two forces have resulted in them going broke. While it is true that the competition is fierce, it is important that businesses know and define their point of difference that is based on quality and standards.

APJ Q3: What aspect of your work do you love the most and why? Maria: Because our company has become successfully established, it is able to offer consumers great value for money using the best light therapy equipment. Now that we have an RTO for internal training purposes my main focus will be to ensure that our programs provide our team with incomparable training and practical skilling to achieve great results and minimise any adverse effects, which at present is our biggest threat in our industry. It gives me great satisfaction to have been given the opportunity to source industry experts that can provide our teams with the appropriate tools and confidence.

APJ Q4: What are the key changes in the industry that you have experienced in the past five years? Maria: The introduction of technology has revolutionised results we can achieve in our salons and it is therefore important for those who wish to survive to embrace these advances. It's fair to say that the beauty industry has 'seen the light!' On the other hand, basic grooming services are experiencing threats from such businesses as waxing and nail bars. Meanwhile, franchises with their slick marketing exposure and great packages are also a threat to other businesses. It is therefore important for the industry to realise that in order to survive they will need to invest in taking their business operations seriously by advancing their knowledge and updating their skills, as well as their business practices.

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APJ Q5: If regulations were introduced in the operation of laser and IPL devices what would you like to see implemented? Maria: Regulations should be mandatory and uniform nationally. We are able to utilise high-

powered machinery, which can be extremely dangerous without sufficient and competent training. It gives the industry a bad reputation when at the end of the day and in most cases it's 'the fool not the tool' that is incorrectly operating the device that is the real problem. As we know, most burns are due to operator error.

APJ Q6: What is the best way that you relax and how important is it to have work and life balance and do you achieve it? Maria: At the moment I don't have too much time to relax as I'm a single mother and a hectic

work schedule, which includes study. Back in the early days I had the opportunity to travel the world at a fraction of the price! This improved my understanding of people from a diverse culture and background and contributed to a big part of my success at any role I've had.

APJ Q7: Why did you join APAN and how have you benefited from your membership? Maria: Belonging to a professional body is all part of being professional, but more importantly in being kept up-to-date with new developments and current information. I have found APAN's assistance invaluable. Any time I require help on industry issues, regulations or other matters they have answered my questions promptly and accurately in a professional and totally unbiased manner. They are specialists in this are and I have found their assistance invaluable in helping me stay abreast of regulatory changes, which are vital in directing our company.

Maria Rabaka can be contacted at Laser Training Academy P: (02) 8014 8939 | M: 0405 311 744 | E: m.rabaka@lta.com.au


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APAN Another successful APAN Aesthetics Conference Building Expertise and Reputation Finishing off with their third conference for the year, APAN staged its last event for 2013 at the RACV Royal Pines Resort on the Gold Coast on Sunday 27th October. The theme was Building Expertise and Reputation and the program featured a diverse range of topics to challenge delegates on the changes, options and possibilities that await those who wish to ensure their growth and success in the years to come. First off Professor Ray Hayek presented information on the current challenges facing the industry and the need for more formal education to support and grow aesthetics as a profession rather than a trade.

As the Executive Dean for the new Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) Professor Hayek has worked extensively identifying the current skills-gap shortage within the industry and the need for higher education to better equip the industry to face the future with greater confidence. He addressed the advances in technology and the growing consumer demand for more advanced treatment outcomes. Tina Viney challenged the industry on the new wave of change that is happening in product and equipment innovations that is targeting consumers, as well as new technologies with advanced capabilities that are now available to the industry, with the need for greater skills and knowledge in meeting with consumer expectations.

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She also presented the current developments within Australia in the area of regulations and how the industry will need to prepare to face the future.

are now available to help businesses pinpoint their strengths and weaknesses and identify more specifically what is really happening within their business.

Terry Everitt gave an excellent presentation on how skincare can change the inner workings of the skin cells and identified specific ingredients and research findings on their functionality and capabilities as well as warned against exaggerated claims that are not substantiated.

Presenting an innovative way to improve staff performance by understanding their personality style, Jayne Jennings and Valerie McDougall, the directors of Pink Shoe Power Time Management System, together discussed how different

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Caroline Nelson challenged the industry in the need for change and presented strategies on how businesses can lift their game to become more successful and profitable. Michael Bishop discussed the all-important hot topic of unfair dismissal and helped businesses better understand their options and obligations. As a lawyer his presentation was spiced with examples of incidents that can go wrong and how to avoid them. Ian McManus spoke on business management and presented valuable tools that

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personalities relate to time and time wastage. The lecture was based on comprehensive research into personalities and how they respond differently to stressors. The event was also supported by a small exhibition of quality exhibitors that created an important part of the overall learning and educational experience.

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These events are intended to create a dynamic educational and networking opportunity for the industry, as new information can be more powerfully presented to businesses and practitioners alike in a fun face-to-face environment.

If you have never attended an APAN Australian Aesthetic Conference Program we invite you to join us in 2014 at the three locations – Perth 25th May, Sydney 25th August and Hobart October 26th. To find out more visit www.apanetwork.com or see pages 28-31.

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Medispa management gets a makeover. AACDS now offers the Diploma of Management - Medispa Practice. This qualification is a unique addition to the Australian beauty and cosmetic medical industry. Developed in close consultation with industry professionals, it focuses on the provision of dermal therapies and cosmetic medical services in a medispa, dermal therapy clinic or cosmetic medical practice. This online course is ideal for those working in clinics offering cosmetic medical and dermal therapy treatments, who wish to strengthen their management capabilities and the business’ profitability. So too for those planning to introduce these services into their business model, or anyone aspiring to manage a medispa. This Government-accredited qualification is fully-covered by VET Fee-Help.

aacds.edu.au | T 08 9226 3366

2362 AACDS Medispa AD AW.indd 1

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Are you ready to Evolve your Business?

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Isabelle Sennery is a highly intuitive woman and a force of positive energy. She is unique in that she possesses both strong visionary, as well an managerial capabilities and these strengths influence her unique style of business coach/life coach, with equal consideration given to both credentials. Isabelle researches her information well to ensure what she presents is credible and relevant to today's business challenges and consumer needs. Her approach is holistic, meaning that she is equally interested in helping transform her clients both as individuals as well as a business owners or managers. This is because she is a strong advocate that change always starts from within. She holds the passionate belief that when your thinking is aligned with your convictions and you have clarity about what are your individual gifts and strengths, you can then find your true passion. From there, mapping out a business strategy to achieve your goals becomes much easier and more fun. We caught up with Isabelle to question her about how her services work and what they offer businesses.

APJ Q1: Isabelle, tell us a little about your business model, how it came about? Isabelle: Several years ago I looked at the whole context of business coaching and identified that while it solved some problems it left others unsolved. What I identified as the missing link was the fact that some of these approaches were one-dimensional and focused primarily on one level – the business activities, with little consideration of the human elements; by this I mean the inner state of the individual running the business, their mind set and world view that may not be in harmony at a heart level with the business plan. It is my experience that this lack of coherence between the outer business focus and the inner quest to find meaning and purpose in the daily activities undermines the success of the whole business strategy.

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On closer examination I identified two other gaps, the first one refers to change. Nobody would argue that we are living in a changing world. This is nothing new, what is new however, is the speed of change. I studied some of the discoveries in quantum physics and bioenergetics and right there I could see how the world is no longer what we think it is. Many parameters have changed, however, we are still living our lives and running our businesses as we were two to three decades ago. The second gap refers to the health epidemic we are currently experiencing, such as viewing beauty independent of health. Today a growing number of individuals are concerned about the environment, toxicity issues and wanting to look after their health in a more proactive manner.

Our world views and beliefs shape us and it is important that all these factors should be part of our plans and goals – who we are as individuals and where we want to go in business and in our careers should be aligned and part of the equation – the overall purpose and plan if we are to achieve success and stay on track with our goals. As professionals we first need to determine and gain clarity on our core values and ascertain what they are and how they shape our convictions. We need to gain clarity on what we are prepared to stand for? Gaining clarity on your beliefs will allow you to move with greater purpose on how you want to make a difference in your world – it's about your mind and the heart working together and not existing as two separate fragmented parts. When you determine your beliefs you will also be able to choose products and services that are aligned with those beliefs, rather than take on something that does not resonate with your values. Our core program is designed like a puzzle – broken down in four modules. Each one reveals a different part of the overall picture. The first module presents the perspective on the philosophy and purpose of the program as a whole. It is intended to explore the trends that are currently shaping our world and influencing the industry. It reveals how powerful small businesses can be in shaping how the future of this planet unfolds. From there we move to subsequent modules, each unfolding a new picture, from your personal position, to identifying and finding the right client, to effective strategies on how to build your business. Each module has tools and templates to enable you to structure your progress not just through external protocols, but also on a foundation that reflects your real values. This is our point of difference and it is making the difference to many businesses as it helps them get their passion again about why they are in this profession, and once again become fully engaged and excited with their life and business. Finally, each module includes an individual session with me by phone or skype where together we bring it all together with greater clarity.

APJ Q2: How are your services different from the standard business coaching available through other companies? Isabelle: I guess we ask different questions to standard business coaching. We ask business owners to start by better understanding themselves and what is important to them. More than anything, we ask business owners to understand how their business fits into the bigger picture. If you consider the shape and state of the world today, we have a responsibility to fix what is the result of decades of planetary neglect in the name of profit. There is nothing wrong with

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profit, but it is now our responsibility to bring back balance in a world that has gone mad (diseases, poverty, pollution, wars, etc.). We can do this using our businesses, simply by choosing to do a few things differently. We explore information from the emerging science of quantum physics, epigenetics, brain neuroplasticity, etc that provide us powerful new insight and understanding on life at a cellular level and how we can integrate this information through better choices.

We also help business owners and managers identify and understand the psyche and needs and wants of their ideal clients – what do they value, what are they looking for? From there we give them the tools to develop programs and treatment menus that will better meet with their clients’ expectations and resonate with what these individuals are really looking for. By establishing a more targeted approach, engaging and retaining these clients for life will become much easier. What we are finding is that often businesses evolve and constantly add services without reviewing how this is all shaping up. This results in having far too many options that can be confusing to the client. Furthermore, the business loses brand strength and starts to look like other businesses that are competing with them. We also review the whole notion of competition. Today, we are seeing the rise of networks that engage in a spirit of co-operation. A whole new psyche is emerging and what is particularly important here is that the rise of this phenomenon is driven by the consumer. We question what does that mean for business? This is another area that we explore. Following this we give businesses tools on how to advertise, promote and sell products and services and communicate with their clients through hands-on business tools and strategies. Through this approach the whole process is more meaningful, consumer friendly and appealing to their target market consumer.

APJ Q3: In your opinion what areas do you believe businesses in our industry struggle with the most and how do your services offer a solution? Isabelle: The key problem we are

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finding in most instances is that businesses have lost sight of who their target market is – they are trying to be everything to everyone. Being better informed consumers now have a clearer understanding of what they want. They are looking for products, treatments and services that align with their own values, are effective yet safe for them and the environment, and are delivered by qualified experts. Quality clients know what they want, and when they identify it they will stick with it.

We often find that many of the issues we address with businesses are things that they appreciate and have loosely in place, but where they have failed is in the ability to clearly articulate them. What we

do is give them the tools to do this throughout the whole communication process with potential and existing clients, and this makes all the difference to their business growth.

APJ Q4: What exciting new developments do you believe the industry is experiencing that offer great promise for businesses that are prepared and well equipped for these changes? Isabelle: I believe the aesthetics industry is entering a very exciting era. With advances in both health and anti-ageing information and technologies we now have a lot more options in offering real value to our clients in a variety of modalities. Even formal education in beauty, dermal therapies and clinical aesthetics is giving us broader, as well as more in-depth knowledge on the mechanisms of ageing, nutrition and lifestyle strategies and how we can support the body to stay healthy and younger-looking – who doesn't want that? I believe that we will see the opportunity for the aesthetics industry to specialise in the area of inner and outer health. We will see greater collaboration with aestheticians and healthcare professionals, naturopaths and antiageing physicians, and we will gain the knowledge on how to address the body from a more holistic perspective. This is now become a major draw factor for many consumers.

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APJ Q5: I believe you currently have a special offer for businesses to trial your service and what can a business expect to gain from this offer? Isabelle: As our services are quite unique we are offering MODULE 1 for FREE for 7 days. This gives to you a change to trial our approach and services. If the angle we are taking resonates with you and you wish to embrace the journey fully, you can purchase the entire program for $1300 instead of $2000. We offer 100% refund guarantee. We commit to supporting you personally for the full duration of the program (8 weeks) and you commit to what is required of you in the time frame that is required (2 weeks per module). This, contrary to many on-line coaching programs, is significantly limiting the number of participants. Therefore the purpose of providing Module 1 for FREE is to make sure that you enter this program fully aware of the strong focus on the “big picture” and personal development aspect of the program. Our aim is to help businesses find new and better ways of working with joy, creativity and purpose, while providing greater value and benefit to their clients.

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keyingredient ㄰

Early Research Shows Link Between Probiotics and Clear Skin By Tina Viney In recent years, probiotics have become synonymous with helping maintain good digestive health. Whether as live active cultures found in some yoghurts or as daily supplements, probiotics are live, “friendly” bacteria that may benefit a person's health. Now, emerging research is finding that the benefits of probiotics may extend beyond the digestive tract to the skin. In fact, skin prone to acne or rosacea has shown improvement with daily probiotic use, giving dermatologists and skin therapists reason to consider supplementing traditional acne therapy with a dose of this beneficial bacteria.

PROBIOTICS SEND SIGNALS FROM YOUR GUT TO YOUR SKIN Much more is known about how probiotics work in your gut than is known about their effects elsewhere in your body. But new research shows that there may be signals coming from these gut microorganisms that are sent to your skin and mucosa. According to Professor Christine Lang, head of the working group Genetics and Molecular Biology of the 'Hüls Chemistry Research Association' at the Technical University of Berlin, the potential benefits of skin probiotics would depend on how each microorganism is selected, and the specific effects that they have on the skin.

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While probiotics are now widely known for their beneficial role in your gut health, emerging research further proves their benefits are not limited to your digestive tract. Signals from these gut microorganisms are sent throughout your body and interact with organisms in your skin and gut mucosa. Researchers are now looking into how these interactions can help with skin conditions like dryness, improve collagen, or stabilise the microflora on your skin to help with irritations.

topical or oral applications work best, but the promise is definitely there. Probiotic benefits for your skin is an area worth keeping an eye on in the next few years.

YOUR SKIN IS TEEMING WITH BACTERIA At first it may seem strange that bacteria in your gut would play a role in your skin health, but when you consider that your skin is literally bathed in bacteria it's not such a stretch after all. There are about 100 trillion microorganisms, bacteria, fungi and more, living on and in your body. The bacterial cells also outnumber human cells by 10 to 1. Even after you wash, there are still one million bacteria living on every square centimetre of your skin. There are also 70 known tribes of commensal, or beneficial bacteria, that could be living on your body right now. The word commensal comes from the Latin term “com mensa,” which means “sharing a table”. In other words, the bacteria living on your skin are involved in a symbiotic relationship with you. The bacteria on your inner elbow, for instance, process the raw fats it produces and in turn moisturise your skin. The bacteria in the human microbiome collectively possess at least 100 times as many genes as the 20,000 or so in the human genome, so it's easy to see how the bacteria on your skin can have such a profound influence on your health.

Your body is its own living ecosystem, teeming with beneficial bacteria that play a large role in keeping you alive. Some microbiologists have even stated that a person should really be considered a "superorganism”.

Research is still emerging as to precisely how probiotics interact with your skin, as well as which strains are most beneficial and whether

SKIN BENEFITS REVEALED It's already known that probiotics play a role in your skin health. For

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instance, that probiotics are beneficial for preventing eczema in infants is a finding that has been reported by experts since 2001.

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In 2003 a study of over 100 children from families with a history of eczema also found a benefit from probiotic supplementation, and just last year a study noted that daily supplements of probiotic foods may reduce the risk of eczema in children by 58 per cent.

Eczema, also known as atopic dermatitis, is more than just a skin problem, however, as it signals a problem with your immune system. In fact, eczema is said to be one of the first signs of allergy during the first days of life, and about three out of four children with eczema later go on to develop asthma or hay fever, according to the Mayo Clinic.

The incidence of eczema has been on the rise for years and one theory for the increase, which is known as the hygiene hypothesis, is that children are being exposed to a lower level of bacteria, which affects the development of their immune systems. Indeed, a study published in 2008 found that children with only a limited variety of bacteria in their intestines one week after birth are more likely to develop eczema by the age of 18 months. It's thought that giving an infant probiotics (good bacteria) helps to stave off eczema and other allergic diseases by beneficially altering the early colonisation of bacteria in their gut, which may help the child's immune system to develop and mature. It may be through a similar mechanism that probiotics help other skin conditions as well.

INFLUENCING GENE EXPRESSION Far from simply helping your body to better digest and assimilate your food (which they do very well), probiotics influence the activity of hundreds of your genes, helping them to express in a positive, diseasefighting manner. Probiotic supplements are widely available, and if you choose a highquality version they are very effective in helping to "reseed" your intestinal tract with good bacteria. Cultured foods like yoghurt, some cheeses and sauerkraut are good sources of natural, healthy bacteria, provided they are not pasteurised. And fermented foods, such as natto, can give your body the similar benefits of consuming a whole bottle of good bacteria at a fraction of the cost.

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One of the best and least expensive ways to get healthy bacteria through your diet is to obtain raw milk and convert it to kefir, which is really easy to make at home. All you need is one-half packet of kefir starter granules in a quart of raw milk, which you leave at room temperature overnight. By the time you wake up in the morning you will likely have kefir. If it hasn't obtained the consistency of yoghurt you might want to set it out a bit longer and then store it in the fridge.

new culture pack. Just one starter package of kefir granules can convert about 50 gallons of milk to kefir.

FURTHER SCIENTIFIC DISCOVERIES Most bacterial cells that live inside and on the body are harmless, and studies show that, in fact, they can be extremely beneficial to the body's normal functioning. According to Whitney P. Bowe, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist and clinical assistant professor of dermatology at Icahn School of Medicine at Mt. Sinai Medical Centre in New York, while the science of how probiotics can work to interfere with the development of acne and rosacea is very complex, researchers are studying how this type of healthy bacteria applied topically to the skin or taken orally can benefit these skin conditions.

RESULTS ON TOPICALLY APPLIED PROBIOTICS Currently, some cosmeceutical manufacturers have started using probiotics in their products based on this early research – including probiotic masks, creams or cleansers. Two companies that offer formulations with probiotics in Australia are Bioelements Ph: 1300 262 275, as well as Christina Cosmeceuticals Ph:1800 824 282. You wish to have a talk to them.

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A quart of kefir has far more active bacteria than you can possibly purchase in any probiotics supplement, and it is very economical as you can reuse the kefir from the original quart of milk about 10 times before you need to start a

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According to Dr Bowe there are different ways that topical probiotics can benefit the skin: 1. Protective Shield

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In clients/patients with acne and rosacea, living microorganisms on the skin are recognised as foreign by the body's immune system. The immune system springs into action to counter this potential threat, resulting in the inflammation, redness, or bumps common in these skin conditions. Probiotics applied topically sit on the skin's surface and prevent the skin cells from seeing the bad bacteria and parasites that can cause this immune system response. This is known as “bacterial interference”, as probiotics protect the skin and interfere with the ability of bad bugs (or bacteria and parasites) to provoke an immune reaction.

Antimicrobial Properties

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Dr Bowe explained that sometimes the substances produced by probiotics have antimicrobial properties, meaning they can create holes in bad bacteria and kill them. Similar to the way

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antibiotics work in the treatment of acne and rosacea, probiotics can help fight harmful bugs from triggering inflammation. Researchers now are testing probiotics to determine which ones make the substances that can kill bad bacteria. Dr Bowe predicts that the strains could be identified in the very near future and will then be marketed in products for their antimicrobial properties.

Calming Effect

When certain types of probiotics are placed in contact with skin cells, they calm the parts of the cells that may want to react to the presence of bad bacteria that they see as a threat. These healthy signals produced by the probiotics stop the skin cells from sending “attack” messages to the immune system that result in flares of acne or rosacea.

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Dr Bowe also reported that some of her patients are experimenting with probiotics by applying homemade Greek yoghurt masks to their skin to control breakouts or flares. There is currently no research or studies that demonstrate the effectiveness of this home remedy.

ORAL PROBIOTICS AND STUDY RESULTS According to Dr Bowe oral probiotics sold as daily supplements containing Lactobacilli and/or Bifidobacterium or in yoghurts containing live cultures could influence skin conditions such as acne and rosacea by affecting what is known as the “gut-brain-skin axis”. With this theory, stress alone or in combination with processed comfort foods that lack fibre can slow digestion. This in turn changes the type and number of bacteria that live in the gut to unhealthy bacteria. Eventually the gut lining becomes leaky and toxins are released into the bloodstream causing inflammation throughout the body. People who are predisposed to acne or rosacea can experience flares as a result of this shift in gut bacteria and subsequent inflammation. To counteract flares of acne or rosacea associated with the “gutbrain-skin axis,” Dr Bowe advises patients to find ways to help manage or cope with stress, fix their diet or introduce healthy bacteria to the gut in the form of probiotics. The probiotics will line the gut and create a healthy, sealed barrier that prevents inflammation that can trigger acne or rosacea. While studies are under way to better understand this complex process, a few international studies have shown a correlation between oral probiotic use and improvement in acne, including: ! A recent Korean study of 56 acne patients found that drinking a Lactobacillus-fermented dairy beverage effectively reduced their total acne lesion count and decreased oil production over 12 weeks. ! In an Italian study, half of patients were administered an oral probiotic supplement in addition to their standard acne and rosacea treatment. The other half of patients did not receive the probiotic supplement. The probiotic group experienced better clearing of acne and rosacea symptoms. ㄰

CONCLUSION While continued studies investigate which probiotic strands work best on the skin there appears to be sufficient evidence on the benefits of both oral and topically applied probiotics. Look out for further research findings as probiotics are further investigated and formulated in both skincare and for oral use.

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REFERENCES http://www.skininc.com/skinscience/ingredients www.articles.mercola.com/.../probiotics

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What’s new in the BUSINESS OF BEAUTY A report on Cosmoprof Asia 2013 By Terry Everitt Terry Everitt attended Cosmoprof Asia once again and here is a personal reflective article by him on his observations and new developments that he sighted. th

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Cosmoprof Asia 18 annual trade show took place November 13-15 2013, at the Hong Kong Exhibition Centre. The biggest beauty trade expo in our region has been completed for another year, showcasing all things beautiful (and some not so beautiful), in a building that is beautiful itself sitting as it does on the harbour’s edge. Over 2,168 exhibitors representing 43 countries were visited by more than 60,900 attendees, almost a 10% increase from the previous year. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Over 76,200 sq metres of exhibition floor space highlighting over 22 countries’ pavilions with over 2000 international exhibitors being seen by over 55,000 visitors. These statistics are major, yet does not describe the actual size or energy of the expo. Expanding on the previous exhibition zones, the bigger and more focused inclusion of hair and nails increased the size, yet did not take anything away from the core beauty focus – six dedicated areas under the broad titles of cosmetics and toiletries, natural health, beauty salon, hair salon, packaging and nails and accessories. This expo has

become the major reference point for the Asia Pacific region for showcasing products and equipment. Exhibitors are seen across a wide spectrum, from small to medium; large and international brands, all are showcased. Over 30% increase is noted from Italian exhibitors and 10% increase from France is pronounced by the organisers. Korea, however, takes the lead with over 190 separate Korean companies exhibiting in 16 pavilions. The Korean beauty market is well established, as anyone who has been to South Korea (particularly in Seoul) can verify. Their attention to detail is amazing in how they present their wares and in the practitioners’ use of product and equipment.

SKINCARE Skincare is about multi-functionality as consumers continue to expect more from their products. This expectation has increased since the marketing of some skincare as BB creams. Following this, of course, came the CC line-up of products and now well into the DD phase of skincare. This minor alphabet game is already confusing with different names being ascribed to them – starting with BB (blemish balm or beauty balm) to CC (Colour correction or corrective concealers), or some who have tried to push the CC as Concentrated Cream. Moisturisers with sun protection is not new, however, has been reborn as DD creams (Daily Defence).

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As you are no doubt aware, stem cells (or at least extracts) have been news for some time and Cosmoprof provided an array of such in skincare. Multiple claims are made for this, with some actually trying to convince that the product had stem cells within it.

vitamin C cream into a syringe. I do not know if they were the first, but it is somewhat common now. One interesting ingredient noted in this packaging was Tryptophan, for the use in acne treatment along with blue light.

In case you think this might be great, it actually would not be possible. There is great debate around the whole stem-cell issue, which is outside the scope of this article (maybe a great topic for a future article). What is known is that some stem-cell extracts can be isolated, and with very careful manufacturing be viable in a product.

HOMECARE DEVICES

One company has very cleverly encapsulated the whole idea of stemcell extracts into their trading name AAPE (Advanced Adiposederived stem-cell Protein Extract). They claim a successful mixture of over 800 proteins from the ADSC (Adipose-derived stem cell). Among these that are known to work are growth factors – TDG beta-1, VEGF, PDGF and beta FGF. This is perhaps not so different to many other products now appearing, however, the real difference for me is the seven peer-reviewed studies that have been achieved on the product. The product is in an ampoule presentation and suggested to be inducted into the skin with either micro-needling, RF or iontophoresis for the penetration. It included: ! TDG beta-1 – Thymine DNA Glycosylase ! VEGF – Vascular endothelial growth factor ! PDGF – platelet-derived growth factor ! beta FGF – fibroblast growth factor

Small hand-held IPL machines with different lamp heads for treatment of acne, skin rejuvenation and hair removal are readily available. They are charged up and then used without the need for cords getting in the way. With spot sizes of 3-4.5 cm, they are user friendly. One model I looked at had automatic light transmission measuring the skin’s resistance and automatically calibrating the power outage while needing the head to be touching the skin evenly before allowing it to fire.

Another interesting ingredient noted was a mix of Poly Deoxy Ribo Nucleotides – not sure how this works (I know the theory yet have problems with the practical), and perhaps they should tone down their proud claim that it is from salmon sperm. One packaging idea that seems to have caught on, possibly to make the consumer think the product is more 'medical', therefore presumably better, is the use of syringe packaging. I first came across this two years ago in Australia, when a compounding pharmacy company put

At the recent APAN conference on the Gold Coast, Tina Viney spoke of the emerging trend of homecare devices. An explosion of such devices was seen at Cosmoprof – the professional-use modalities such as radio frequency and IPL are now available for home use.

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The same company had home radio-frequency devices and what they called Epi-Q; a laser hair-removal system that comes with video instruction for home use. I am not plugging this company in any way, but if you want to look at an example of what is out there then check out http://www.mydeess.com/d/e/ (this link is for the English version). You will note that there is very little said about the technology, safety concerns or anything we would be very careful about – in Asia, simply that it works seems to suffice. Non-ablative laser devices being sold within the Asian market are well established in the homecare equipment space. While these devices are 'toned down' from the professional parameters, they still provide an action and aesthetic outcome.

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This homecare equipment will need some careful marketing and education in Australia, as many consumers may purchase such devices and think they no longer require professional care. It will be important for t h e r a p i s t s t o acknowledge that these devices are available (at least on the Internet at this time in Australia; or “coming to a shop near you”). They do not replace professional care. What they can do is help maintain the results from your professional care and elongate the effects on the skin that you achieve. I believe it will be very shortsighted to ignore this change in technology making an array of equipment available for Terry Everitt & Jennifer Taylor. the home market. Might The expo is not like the Sydney Spa and Beauty Expo. For example, be a case of “if you can't beat them, join them” and start retailing these most of the exhibitors do not sell their product at the show – they take machines as an adjunct homecare. orders only. Some are expecting big orders in the dozens or hundreds per item; so are not so interested in selling one. On the other hand, The Asian market does not have all of the regulations and legislation some do, so it is a bit hit and miss. Simply need to ask if they will sell that surrounds the Australian market, so there was a number of one or two to you, rather than expecting you to order in multiples. interesting items that simply would not be allowed here. The Asian market is particularly exciting with their enthusiastic uptake and This is in many cases due to them looking for distributors for various appetite for innovation. Whether it works or not does not seem to be geographical areas to get their wares out to a greater international the question – only what is new and different. Consequently some of market. Cosmoprof acts as a business-to-business network in the claims made are a little outside of believability and even scientific providing the space for sampling new products to a bigger audience. possibility. It appears that it is not what is said the product or equipment will do; more that you need to show or know why it won't do as they proclaim. THE MEDICAL SIDE OF COSMOPROF

HAIR, NAILS AND SPA While the expo is primarily about beauty in terms of skin, hairdressing is becoming a bigger feature at Comoprof Asia. This year they introduced “Visions of the Elite”, a major show by Intercoiffure; the international association for hairdressing. I did not go to it myself, however, reports are that it was a three-hour extravaganza of cuttingedge techniques and creativity, featuring a number of internationally known stylists and colourists. Beauty Odyssey Hair Show was another major show of hair creativity.

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The nail sector is not forgotten, with 128 specialist nail companies across all segments of the nail industry coming together in the one place showing the latest in nail care, nail art and decoration techniques, trends and textures. The introduction of the “International Nail Day” program encourages nail specialists to network and exchange ideas and techniques. The sixth Cosmoprof Asia Spa Conference took place Thursday 13th November, which featured 13 industry leaders who shared their knowledge and insights concerning the spa industry across specifics such as marketing, operational subjects, technology and trends.

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What was of interest was that a number of exhibitors had threads – the surgical kind for facial rejuvenation. All quickly stated they were for doctor use only. I was surprised that there were so many of them available, with exhibitors showing multimedia presentations of actual use and placement of them. Also a number of mesotherapy guns were sighted. The guns are used to provide concise measurement of doses per shot which can be adjusted for volume and time for syringe size of 1-10cc for the treatment of cellulite. While not exactly new, the trend appears to be liposuction with radio frequency under the grand title of 'Dissolution and Suction Lipectomies”, using 1MHZ with various cannula sizes providing suction of some 90Kpa. I am not sure if they were told there would be many doctors attending or something else to have them there.

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EQUIPMENT The trend in equipment (apart from the home market equipment) appears to be following skincare in being multi-functional. The use of different modalities in the same machine were promoted, for example Laser and IPL with multi phases of the laser (not only in variables of

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power yet in bandwidth as well). Radio frequency and ultrasonic mixeduse machines were on a number of stands.

Of some interest to m e w a s a Fractional Radio Frequency Needle system – this has a head that injects 25 pins into the dermis (with variable depth of 0.5-3cms) and emits RF (again variable from 100900ms). Solid anaesthetic control required for this machine; definitely not for beginners.

In helping skin analysis, there were many variations on the 'visia' type facial analysis machines around. What was more interesting to me was the hand-held probes that could be used all over the body. Different machines had different capabilities although one in particular was

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amazing in the 3D aptitude it displayed, allowing a depth of visual portrayal of various skin and hair depths. I look forward to playing with this machine, which will be used by students in the new Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) degree beginning next academic year in Sydney.

STUDENT EXPOSURE FROM A SYDNEY COLLEGE I caught up with Maureen Houssein-Mustafa OAM, who owns a large Registered Training Organisation (RTO) in Sydney, specialising in Beauty, Hair and Makeup. Showing why she is on the cutting edge of education excellence, Maureen had almost 60 students at Cosmoprof from the college. This was an amazing opportunity for the students to experience what Cosmoprof had to offer. A number of trainers from the college also were in attendance. Maureen had paid for all flights and accommodation to allow the students and staff to experience Cosmoprof. This is an amazing feat (not to mention the cost) to allow such exposure for students in the beauty industry. It was great to spend some time with the Beauty, Head of Faculty, Jennifer Taylor along with the Hairdressing Head of Faculty, Julie Halkadis, and Amy Morgan, who heads the Makeup Faculty. In furthering the educational goals for the beauty industry in moving towards a profession, it is Maureen who has been the driving force behind the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) delivered by MHM Higher Education t/a College of Health and Wellness. ㄰

COSMOPROF 2014

If you haven't been to Cosmoprof Asia then start planning the trip to experience all that Cosmoprof Asia is, which next year is 12-14th November 2014. Hong Kong itself an amazing place with much to see and do outside of the expo.

Cosmoprof have three major expos; Bologna (April 2-7th 2014), North America (13-15 July in Las Vegas) and Hong Kong (12-14 November 2014).

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AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.

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CRUELTY FREE LOGO CERTIFICATION

WHAT TYPES OF ACNE ARE MORE LIKELY TO SCAR?

jane iredale is honoured to announce that their products have been certified cruelty-free by the Coalition for Consumer Information on Cosmetics' (CCIC) Leaping Bunny Program, the leading internationally respected animal protection group for cruelty-free certification. CCIC's Leaping Bunny Program recognises and supports companies that are doing their part to help eliminate the cruel and unnecessary use of animals in the testing of cosmetic products and ingredients, and do not allow third-party testing on animals for product registration purposes.

Not simply the bane of high school students the night before prom, acne can occur during any phase of life. While some people have relatively clear skin that only breaks out once in a while, others are chronically fighting a frustrating battle against severe acne. Fortunately, most people stop suffering from breakouts once they reach their 30s, but severe acne can leave behind a permanent problem: acne scars. Since not all acne leaves scars, you may be wondering what types of acne are most likely to scar. Let's talk about what can cause acne scars, how to help prevent scars from forming, and how to treat existing acne scars for smooth, beautiful skin.

A commitment to no animal testing has always been at the core of the jane iredale brand. They proudly announced that they do not test their products on animals, use ingredients tested on animals or sell into markets that require animal testing.

Some of the causes of Acne Scars Acne causes inflammation that damages the skin, sometimes leading to scarring. Acne scars can sometimes heal themselves over time, fading until they are almost unnoticeable. However, chronic acne can leave scars so severe they will never fade. But what leads some acne to scar and other types to disappear completely? One of the main risk factors for scarring is cystic acne. Cysts that originate deeper into the skin can potentially leave scars after they heal. Typically, when the skin above the cystic tissue heals, the cysts don't always go away, a common problem for those suffering from acne scars. As we know, serious scarring is rarely caused by common whiteheads and blackheads. If you encounter cystic acne it is advisable that you refer these individuals to a dermatologist.

Prevention against Acne Scars

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The last thing you want to do is let scars form in the first place or make them worse! There are many ways to prevent scars, but fewer ways to treat them effectively. Here are some ways you can prevent acne scars from forming: ! Stay out of the sun! Sun can cause discoloration to any existing scarring, so it's important to protect your skin with appropriate clothing and sunscreen. ! Avoid unhealthy habits like smoking and excessive drinking. These substances can deplete the body of oxygen and hydration, making it harder for skin to heal.

Treatment of Acne Scars There is no quick fix for acne scars. While it can take a long time and many treatments to show improvement in acne scars, many people do experience significant improvement. Keep in mind, however,

For more information on CCIC's Leaping Bunny Program and to view jane iredale in the Leaping Bunny Program Compassionate Shopping Guide, please visit www.leapingbunny.org/color.php

that the amount of improvement that is possible will vary depending on the patient, treatment, and extent of scarring. Keep the skin clean and minimising congestion and infection is paramount. Exfoliating treatments such as chemical peels, for example glycolic acid and azeleic acid, are excellent in decongesting the skin. Other ingredients include Benzoyl peroxide, which helps to kill bacteria. Sulphur-based products are excellent for drying the skin as well as healing clays for the drawing and decongesting action. Correctly used technologies such as IPL and lasers and LED light-based therapies are beneficial. Cooling and anti-inflammatory ingredients such as azulene are beneficial. ㄰

Other natural extracts are:

! ! ! ! !

Green tea – anti-bacterial Passion flower – reduces inflammation Aloe Vera – soothing and calming Sage extract – fights free-radicals Goka Kola – improves skin healing

Ref: HealthNewsDigest.com http://www.acne-reviews.org/

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CAN OLIVE OIL PREVENT SKIN AGEING? By Leslie Baumann, M.D. The scientific evidence that olive oil is good for us keeps getting stronger. In terms of health, studies have proven that diets that incorporate this oil (such as those found in the Mediterranean region) help people live longer, healthier lives. Rich in monounsaturated fatty acids (MUFAs), olive oil has also been linked to lower cholesterol, and may also normalise blood clotting, blood sugar levels and insulin levels.

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But one recent study is shedding light on the potential beauty benefits associated with ingesting olive oil. In this study of almost 3,000 men and women between the ages of 45 and 60, a higher intake of olive oil correlated with less severe photo-ageing in the form of fine lines, wrinkles and signs of sun damage like uneven tone and rough texture. So the next time you break out the pots and pans or serve up a salad, be sure to reach for the olive oil, too. To reap even more benefits from olive oil, you can use it on your skin as well. It's a great moisturiser for dry hands, feet and cuticles. It can even be used a deep treatment for your hair. You can also add a little olive oil to the tub when taking a bath for extra skin hydration. You can even use it on dry patches of skin, chapped lips, and just about anywhere else for that matter!

Due to recent research findings olive oil is now included in several skincare formulations such as Olivella, Maclyn Naturals and Belmondo Skincare.

BEWARE YOUR CELL PHONE! IT CAUSES WRINKLES, COSMETIC SURGEONS SAY No-one wants to give up their smartphone, despite the health and safety risks these electronic devices may impose. Experts warn about electromagnetic radiation that these devices emit and recommend that they should not remain in the bedroom while you sleep. Electromagnetic radiation toxicity is now recognised as the cause of headaches and fatigue, and while more comprehensive research is still under way, it pays to have a break from these devices, at least while we sleep. Mobile phone use is also constantly on the rise, according to the latest United Nations Telecom Agency Report. Worldwide mobile phone subscriptions have topped six billion, more than triple what they were a decade ago. As for accidents behind the wheel, according to one report at least nine people a day are killed and more than 1,060 people injured in crashes that involve a distracted driver.

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However, there is now another observation. According to the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, smartphones can make you look prematurely old. There's no medical name for this condition, at least not yet. The report identified that smartphone users who are looking downwards over excessive amounts of time texting and checking emails can have repercussions.

The constant downward gaze caused by smartphone use may be causing some individuals to experience more lines and creases on their neck than would appear naturally. Even if your face maintains its youthful volume, signs of ageing on the neck can give you away. Recommendations include monitoring overuse, stretching and exercising as well good skincare.

IS YOUR MARGARITA BAD FOR YOUR SKIN? Alcoholic beverages and certain natural substances are now identified to contribute to phototoxicity. Scientifically known as phytophotodermatitis, "margarita dermatitis" occurs when sun-sensitising ingredients called psoralens are on the skin prior to sun exposure, explains Katie Rodan, M.D., a cosmetic dermatologist and co-creator of Proactiv. Psoralens are natural compounds found in lime (hence the margarita nickname), celery, parsley, and other acidic fruits and vegetables. “The reaction is phototoxic, creating a brown, purplish discolouration that is very alarming to people. It's not uncommon to get a blister from it, either,” says Meghan O'Brien, M.D., a dermatologist at Tribeca Park Dermatology in New York City. “Most people come in and think they have melanoma, so being aware of it can alleviate that fear.” While you can treat phytodermatitis and photodermatitis with a steroid if it's identified in the first 24 to 48 hours, most often you just need to allow it to fade naturally, which can take between a few weeks and a few months, Dr. Rodan says. Luckily it's safe to use makeup to cover up the discolouration if it happens on your face.

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In addition to be mindful of your drinks in the sun, read labels carefully before applying anything prior to heading outside, because lotion, bergamot (a citrusy fragrance found in many perfumes) and oils with citrus in them can also trigger the reaction. And if you get a little messy with your Corona and come in contact with one of the agents, Dr. O'Brien advises to wash the affected area thoroughly and then apply a UVA-based sunscreen since UVA rays spur the reaction.

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CELEBRATING A NEW MILESTONE On the occasion of the end of another exciting year, staff, friends and family of the Australasian College of Health and Wellness celebrated the launch of the new degree program Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics). The black-tie formal event was held on Sunday, December 8th 2013 at the beautifully appointed Le Montage Function Centre in Lilyfield, Sydney. Guests and friends were greeted to cocktails, followed by an amazing dinner where nothing was spared. A 10-piece jazz band entertained guests until the small hours of the night. Maureen Houssein-Mustafa, looking fantastic once again, touched everyone's heart with her incredible generosity and ensured everyone had a wonderful time.

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Associate Prof. Sinan Ali, Tina Viney and Prof. Ray Hayek

Tina Viney with George Mangos

Tina Viney, Terry Everitt, Maureen Houssein-Mustafa and Mark Viney with twice-daily doxycycline hydrochloride, while both patients had mildly indurated erythematosus papules and plaques on the microneedle-treated areas at nine-month follow-up.

TOPICAL PRODUCTS APPLIED BEFORE MICRONEEDLE THERAPY LED TO FACIAL GRANULOMAS Applying topical products before micro-needle therapy introduced facial hypersensitivity reactions in women, according to recent study results.

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Researchers studied three women who developed facial granulomas after receiving micro-needle therapy for skin rejuvenation. Patients' biopsy results showed foreign body-type granulomas, and tissue culture results were negative. Chest radiographies and serum angiotensin-converting enzymes were considered normal. Two patients had received microinjection of the same lipophilic vitamin C topical moisturiser (Vita C Serum, Sanítas Skincare) and had a positive patch test reaction to Vita C Serum. Initial treatment of midpotency topical corticosteroids alternating with topical calcineurin inhibitor for six months was ineffective in both cases. One of the patients had partial improvement after three months of therapy

The third patient, who was treated with different topical products during three sessions of microneedle therapy, refused a patch test three months after her final session. A skin examination revealed erythematosus papules on the bilateral cheeks and chin. Following treatment with midpotency corticosteroid and 100 mg oral minocycline hydrochloride twice daily for three weeks, the patient had almost complete resolution. “Given the positive patch test results in the first two cases, these cases were true delayed-type hypersensitivity granulomas,” the researchers concluded. “Application of various non-approved topical products before a micro-needling procedure can introduce immunogenic particles into the dermis and potentiate local or systemic hypersensitivity reactions.

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Given the increasing popularity of micro-needling in cosmetic practices, dermatologists and aestheticians should be aware of its potential consequences. The use of topical products in conjunction with micro-needling needs to be regulated and limited to products approved for intra-dermal injection in humans, the researchers concluded.” Ref: Dermatology Times Soltani-Arabshahi R. JAMA Dermatol. 2013;doi:10.1001/jamadermatol.2013.6955.

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LEADING BEAUTY COLLEGE ON THE GOLD COAST CELEBRATES A NEW GROWTH PHASE On Saturday,19 October, Mrs Karen Andrews MP joined over 200 guests to celebrate GCTA's 3000th graduate from the Diploma of Beauty Therapy at the new, state-of-the-art Robina Campus on the Gold Coast. The academy united students, teachers, parents, alumni, industry partners and the local community in one massive Milestone Event.

GCTA owner Mrs Sherelle French presenting prizes GCTA, previously known as Gold Coast Training Academy, recently signed a long-term lease and in August moved their student body from the original Burleigh Heads Campus to the 69 Laver Drive, Robina property. GCTA owner Mrs Sherelle French said, “We are growing rapidly and to maintain our commitment to excellence we needed to upgrade our facilities considerably and transformed the building into a state-ofthe-art, custom-designed, beauty therapy training facility”. GCTA is one of the oldest and most respected colleges on the Gold Coast and has invested in creating exceptional learning experiences for their students. The new campus is delivering above and beyond expectations. Mrs French confirms “The event was not only the official launch of our beautiful building, but was also an opportunity for our community to get together and have some fun with prizes, beauty gift bags and a great social atmosphere. The event provided the beauty industry with a great opportunity for networking that has been lacking in our local community”.

The evening brought the Gold Coast beauty industry together in a twilight cocktail event to officially open the Robina Campus while celebrating over 27 years of success.

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BUSINESS NEWS

Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcomes

BUSINESS GROUPS CALL FOR MODERATION ON MINIMUM WAGE INCREASES Business groups are calling for a cautious approach to minimum wage rate increases this year, reflective of the tough economic conditions still faced by many sectors. The Fair Work Commission considers upping the minimum wage on a yearly basis and new research reveals these increases accelerate wage growth across the whole economy, not just those on low salaries. Australian Chamber of Commerce and Industry chief executive Peter Anderson stated that the issue is often oversimplified. “For employers it also means a number of higher costs on top of salaries, including payroll tax, superannuation payments and workers’ compensation costs. These are not straightforward matters that can simply be decided by saying we want a wage increase,” he says. “There needs to be a moderate and realistic approach, which should be looked at in terms of industry sectors, not necessarily across the board.” Anderson says ACCI is talking with employers to determine what position it will take to the Fair Work Commission this year. “Some industries and businesses are doing better than others, but the unemployment rate is still considered to rise and business activity still remains muted in the areas where we want to see the labour market fire up,” he says. New research released in late December, commissioned by the FWC, from Sydney University's Workplace Research Centre, found almost one in three employers passed on minimum wage rises to workers who were above award rates.

This number was even higher in industries such as media and telecommunications, mining, public administration and safety. The majority of private sector businesses also reported between 25% and 50% of their operating expenses were comprised of labour costs. On July 1, 2013 the FWC ordered a 2.6% increase to minimum wage rates for each classification level of the modern awards. Anderson says excessive rises to minimum wage rates can price young people out of the workforce. “Either the wage becomes unaffordable or the risk is too great, especially for young people in atrisk categories,” he says. “Young people who may be long-term unemployed, people who have failed to complete their studies or people who have a substance abuse or social problem. These people are in a high-risk category for employers.” Anderson says for businesses to employ high-risk young people, the direct wage cost is often too much when combined with the costs of providing support and training and the risk they won't complete their work requirements. “These risks are exacerbated by high minimum wage rates. It costs employers over $30,000 a year to employ the most basic unskilled worker,” he says. The minimum wage is expected to rise again on July 1 this year. However, the FWC will review current research into the impacts of wage rises prior to making its decision. There have only been three instances in the past 20 years where minimum wage rates have not been raised. Currently, there are 1.5 million Australians whose salaries are determined by award rates, according to the Australian Bureau of Statistics. “We can't continue to have increases of this magnitude as we have had over the past five years. It needs to be based on where we're at globally and in the context of the economic conditions of the past five years. This would lead to the need for additional data and economic analysis of the impact of the current minimum rates.”

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The Sydney University research revealed minimum wage rates also have an impact on enterprise-level agreements. Businesses react to wage increases by reducing staff or staff hours. “It's created lower levels of employment. We're employing less people to do the same amount of work and this is a dangerous way to achieving productivity growth,” the study showed.

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FAIR WORK COMMISSION DENIES CHANGES TO PENALTY RATES: SMALL BUSINESS FURIOUS Small business has been dealt a serious blow with the Fair Work Commission denying an application to alter the way penalty rates are paid.

Several industries have appealed to the FWC to allow penalty rates to be paid on the sixth and seventh consecutive days of work, instead of on all Saturdays or Sundays. Small business also wanted penalty rates be reduced to 125% for working on Saturdays and Sundays. Part of the argument was that weekends are no longer as important as they once were. The FWC dismissed this, saying it wasn't satisfied there had been a significant change in the difficulties in working “unsociable hours”. Reducing penalty rates to being paid on just the sixth and seventh consecutive day of work would have a “significant impact” on takehome pay, the FWC said. The FWC said it didn't necessarily accept the lower costs would improve productivity among businesses. “The Commission found that the variations proposed would have a negative impact on the relative living standards and the needs of the low paid, who would need to increase the hours worked simply to

maintain their current income.”

Peter Strong, Executive Director Council of Small Business of Australia, says he has heard several tales of businesses being closed on Saturdays and Sundays because they cannot afford to pay penalty rates. If current rates continue, he says, thousands of businesses could be at risk. “That's where we're heading,” he says.

FAIR WORK COMMISSION

Small businesses have lobbied the Abbott Government to change penalty rates, but the Prime Minister has made no announcement on whether any changes will be pushed in legislation. Employment Minister Eric Abetz told The Australian he understands parties are frustrated, but there will be a broader review next year “where parties will have an opportunity to raise any outstanding concerns with modern awards”.

THE FIVE ISSUES SMALL BUSINESSES FACE AND HOW TO GET OVER THEM Small businesses can list around 55 issues that hold them back from success, growth and happiness, according to small business trainer and Key Person of Influence chief executive Glen Carlson. He says that from interviews with over 1000 people running or planning a new business, many were daunted by trying to solve problems ranging from insufficient self-confidence to lacking a good team to spending too much time at work. “If you're trying to build a successful business while focusing on solving 55 problems, you're dead,” he says. Carlson says he's identified five core underlying problems associated with the 55 problems, which if addressed should ease a business's path. Here

there are: 1. Business owners have a lack of clarity to their core value and how to communicate it

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“They don't know why they're different, unique and why people actually buy from them,” Carlson says. He says the solution is to develop a “great pitch” and pitch themselves in both a commercial and social environment.

2. A lack of credibility “There are people who are clear in what they do, but don't have any weight in their industry to back it up.” He says communication is the key to breaking the back of this problem.

3. They have the wrong business model ㈵

Carlson says if a business has a revenue model linked to charging for its time, “you're doomed”. He says charging by the hour hampers innovation and dooms the entrepreneurial spirit. “If you're charging

by the hour, you're not able to capitalise on the value you've developed.” Carlson says the solution is to “productise” your intellectual property. “You need to be able to identify your intellectual property, what's the result it's designed to achieve and how can you package that result.”

4. They're invisible Carlson says this problem relates to if someone Googles a business's name or industry and they're nowhere to be found. “A lot of business owners have a bit of insecurity about standing out,” he says, and being seen as a “shameless self-promoter”. But he warns businesses that if they don't show up online, they're also doomed. “You are who Google says you are.” 5. Trying to go it alone “Small businesses stay small because they think they're small,” he says, noting they try to do everything themselves. He says the solution is creating partnerships. “Whatever you're missing, someone's got it in surplus,” Carlson says. “The trick is do you have something of value that they want? If you can work out how to partner in some way, you can out step this issue.”

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Ref: www.startupsmart.com.au

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WHY MULTITASKING IS BAD Anti-multitasking campaigner Rasmus Hougaard says multitasking is a modern phenomenon. A senior executive wedges the phone on her shoulder to chat while typing a meeting agenda. An email pings in and she flicks to it, one arm gesticulating to a colleague at the door. An image of uber-efficiency or multitasking gone mad? Although it may feel as if we're ticking things off the list, recent studies say multitasking makes us less productive and more stressed.

An American psychiatrist, Dr Edward Hallowell, who studied multitasking over two decades, declared modern workers to be chronic sufferers of "Attention Deficit Trait", having lost the ability to focus, and had become "frenzied underachievers".

Rasmus Hougaard, an anti-multitasking campaigner and speaker at last year's Mind & Its Potential conference in Sydney, says the phenomenon is primarily a modern one. “Work-life has changed. A few decades ago, we were presented with one information stream – doctors treated patients, CEOs their reports and meetings. Now we juggle emails, smart phones, tablets, open offices. It's a lot of information coming at us,” Hougaard says. Multitasking is the brain’s default mechanism for coping with constant cross-fire, Hougaard says. “The brain's reaction to multiple tasks at the same time is to try to solve them all at once. There is inbuilt inefficiency in this. If you're writing an email and answering the phone, it takes a few minutes to properly switch tasks. There is much time lost in transitions,” Hougaard says. It is also at the expense of long-term planning and decision-making abilities.“When we're constantly distracted we lose the capacity for visionary and creative thinking. We become addicted to action and reaction.” Citing research showing the human mind wanders in 47 per cent of our waking hours, Hougaard explains how training in the ancient practice of mindfulness can make for better workers. “It's basically about learning how to manage our attention,” says Hougaard, whose Potential Project has introduced mindfulness to companies such as Google, Sony Electronics and General Electric. “The mind is like a muscle; it can be strengthened and toned and make us more present. And it can be trained to more effectively engage in everyday work activities to be more productive, efficient, collaborative and creative.” Rather than hours of zen meditation, the training often starts with curtailing email checks. “Email is the biggest issue for workers now, with 60,000 of surveyed Australian employees saying emails were

PREGNANCY AND RETURNING TO WORK The Sex Discrimination Commissioner, Elizabeth Broderick, will undertake research into the prevalence and nature of discrimination as it relates to women who are pregnant at work and people returning to work after parental leave.

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Discrimination places significant

detrimental to their performance,” Hougaard says. Instead of responding to emails first thing in the morning, Hougaard recommends tackling a focus-oriented goal during the first two hours of the day. Email should be scheduled – three periods of one hour a day for example. Senior sports executive within the ACT Government Neale Guthrie welcomed corporate mindfulness training as a way of managing stress after a promotion two years ago. “I was always on 10 channels at once. I'd be constantly scanning emails and interrupted by people asking me things. I was constantly switching,” Guthrie says. “That was manageable until I gained responsibility for a second group and suddenly I was struggling.”As well as 10 minutes of meditation a day, Guthrie learnt to "be present" with one task at a time, as well as to set priorities. “Rather than doing the nine other things in my head at the same time, I've learnt to be in the moment with whatever I'm doing,” Guthrie says. “Late in afternoon I sit down for 10 minutes and write down all the tasks that need doing. Then I star three that I want to concentrate on. When I come in to work the next day, I don't look at the others I just focus on those three.” Guthrie deals with his 200 emails a day by scanning them twice a day for anything urgent. Another Eureka moment came for Guthrie when he learnt to adopt an attitude of "beginner's mind". “As a senior executive, I've cycled through the same issues two or three times. I'd shoot down ideas because they didn't work three years ago. Now I try to look at everything fresh.” Ref:http://www.smh.com.au/small-business/trends/why-multitasking-is-bad20131202-2yl3s.html#ixzz2tNaIpzuc

barriers to advancing women's participation in the workplace and women's contribution to productivity in workplaces. Currently there is no comprehensive information collected on the magnitude of the problem. The Commission will host a series of roundtables and consultations across the country in both cities and regional areas and will include participants from: ! Government ! Industry ! Employer groups ! Unions ! Women's groups ! Relevant community and health organisations ! Affected women not otherwise represented. The Commissioner will report on the research in May 2014. Read more: http://www.smh.com.au/small-business/resources/pregnancy-andreturning-to-work-20130627-2oy9f.html#ixzz2tLh0xS00

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While Grant says reducing stress for workers' compensation claimants should be a priority, she also acknowledges that the due processes still need to be followed. “Employers and insurers have a job to do,” she says. “So the key thing to think about is what we can do to improve these processes, but at the same time ensure the necessary information is collected.” The study followed the experiences of 332 people who were hospitalised in Victoria, New South Wales and Australia between 2004 and 2006. The most frequently reported source of stress for patients was in understanding what they needed to do for their compensation claim. Grant says the solution to this is clear communication between all parties. “We need to provide clear expectations of what is involved

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Workers' compensation claimants who have drawn-out cases recover more slowly than those whose experiences are less stressful, according to new research. The study, conducted by Monash University in collaboration with Stanford and Melbourne Universities, suggests businesses will directly benefit if the claims of injured workers are dealt with quickly and effectively. Researchers investigated the impact of stress on workers' compensation claims as well as those involved in transport accidents. It found those with a less stressful compensation case had more positive outcomes, including a speedier recovery and fewer instances of anxiety or depression. Lead author of the research, Dr Genevieve Grant from Monash University, says there are strong associations between experiencing a stressful compensation claim and a poor recovery. “Some of the main sources of stress for claimants were understanding what they needed to do for their claim,” Dr Grant said. “In addition, the amount the time taken to process claims is another source of stress. The number of medical assessments was another factor.”

REDUCING STRESS FROM WORKERS' COMPENSATION CLAIMS HAS BENEFITS FOR BUSINESS

and what the claimants' rights are,” she says. “We need to make sure people have the information they need and some clarity around the steps when it comes to paperwork.” Grant says it's also important to think about how we deal with people undergoing a workers' compensation claim, not just because it's the right thing to do, but because there are direct impacts on business. “If people are able to be dealt with in a way that reduces stress, there is the potential that it will deliver concrete benefits for enterprises. If we are able to facilitate better outcomes for injured workers, then they will be able to return to work sooner.” Rachel Drew, partner at TressCox Lawyers, also stated that the research is consistent with other reports. “Workers' compensation statistics consistently show that a claim with a stress injury component will be open longer, require more treatment and will cost more,” she says. “It would not be surprising if the trend was the same in other types of claims.” Drew also points that there is generally no recourse for a claimant if their stress arises from the claim process. “While some may hypothetically consider a negligence claim against the insurer, the standard of care required of an insurer will not be particularly high,” she says. “There would also have to be consideration of what the contribution of the original injury had to the person's level of stress.”

BUSINESS CARDS EVOLVING AS THEY REFUSE TO DIE

And of those receiving cards, 70% either immediately enter their details into their smartphone or keep the card in a rolodex.

As the world goes digital and businesses embrace the opportunities presented by features such as the cloud and responsive website design, there's one old-school business tool that's refusing to die – the business card.

Recognising the value of a business card, businesses are seeking out good designs to stand out. DesignCrowd says in a statement that it saw a 357% increase in business card design projects in 2013, making it one of the fastest-growing categories on the platform.

A recent survey of 1000 Australian businesses by online design marketplace DesignCrowd has found 88% of Australians still hand out business cards when they meet new clients.

While people are still including traditional information such as name, title and company logo, some are dropping references to physical addresses in favour of websites and where to find them on social media. Some are also including features such as QR codes.

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Experts are confirming that business cards aren't dead. What we see is that even businesses that are predominantly online still meet and conduct business offline.

Not having as business card is still considered unprofessional. The key factor now is to include innovative design to make them stand out.

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business and you were not adequately covered by insurance for that procedure, by operating through a company your personal assets could not be attacked as a result of the legal claims.

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Another perceived advantage of owning a business through a company is the lower corporate tax rate. Although tax is originally paid at 30 per cent when the company makes a profit, when those profits are withdrawn from the company by the shareholders it is then taxed at their marginal tax rate.

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One of the biggest disadvantages of operating a business through a company occurs when the business increases in value. When a company makes a profit on the sale of an asset such as goodwill it does not get the general 50 per cent capital gains tax discount, and it also does not effectively get any benefit for the 50 per cent active asset discount if it qualifies as a small business entity.

The only way to take full advantage of the small business capital gains tax concessions is by owning a business either as a sole trader, a partnership of individuals or through a family trust. In these three circumstances, when a business is sold at a profit capital gains tax is effectively only paid on one-quarter of the gain made.

SHOULD YOU OWN YOUR BUSINESS THROUGH A COMPANY? When a person buys or starts a business there are several choices of how to own it. There is a general misconception that is best to own a business through a company because of its lower tax rate. There are some limited circumstances where this is the case, but in the majority of cases there can be major disadvantages by owning a business through a company. Here is a commonly asked question.

I am looking at buying a salon and I am not sure what is the best way to buy it. My accountant has said a company is the best thing to use, but I am not sure as it seems costly. What are the alternatives? One of the major advantages of running a business through a company is that the assets of the owners are protected in the event of something going wrong. For example, if a treatment you are doing caused a major reaction and the individual successfully took legal action against the

The downside of operating a business either as a sole trader or a partnership of individuals is that you do not get the legal protection of operating through a company. You can, however, own a business through a family trust and still receive the limited liability protection a company offers.

When a trust is formed it must have a trustee appointed to act on its behalf. Individuals can act as trustees for a family trust and also a company can be formed to act as trustee. Where individuals act as trustees their personal assets can be attacked in the event of something going wrong. If a company acts as trustee the limited liability protection is achieved.

Because operating a business through a trust can be expensive you should seek professional advice as to what will be your best option. Questions on small business tax or other issues can be emailed to business@taxbiz.com.au Read more: http://www.smh.com.au/small-business/finance/should-you-ownyour-business-through-a-company-20140203-31vra.html#ixzz2tLgWiXGN

This information is for general use only and does not constitute legal advice. Business owners are advised to seek professional advice when it comes to their business structure.

YOU ARE NOT ALONE – HELP IS AT HAND As AVG Security Advisor, Michael McKinnon, says: “If you are the owner of a small or growing business, chances are you think you're too small for cybercriminals to be interested in you. But think again, with many cybercriminals using automated scanning tools, unless you protect yourself they'll eventually find you.” ㄰

The good news is that you don’t have to become an IT expert to survive in this “brave new world”. There is help available through Kharis Enterprises, a AVG accredited reseller.

Whatever your level of need Kharis can offer you a tailored solution – from a complete externally monitored and controlled system to a stand-alone business-level Internet Software.

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You will be surprised at how simple it is to implement and how cost-effective the solution can be. With the Internet your location is not a problem to work with your system – we simply log on remotely and set everything up. ㈵

Contact Mark at Kharis Enterprises on 0412 177 423 or avg@kharis.com and let him give you peace of mind.

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8368. Email: info@dynamicskinsolutions.com.au

POTENT VITAMIN C

L-Ascorbic Acid, commonly referred to as Vitamin C, is recognised for its ability to protect against oxidative damage. It's known to have photo-protective effects on the skin and has shown to decrease UVBinduced erythema i.e. sunburns. It is essential for the synthesis of collagen, which in turn significantly improves skin texture, fine lines, wrinkles, skin laxity and decreases sallowness. L-Ascorbic acid is known to have anti-inflammatory properties and thus can been used to treat a variety of inflammatory conditions. It significantly improves skin clarity via its mild tyrosinase activity and therefore is used in the treatment and maintenance of several pigmentation disorders such as Melasma, PIHP and general prevention of unwanted discoloration. LAscorbic Acid used singularly in a formulation can become reactive and deteriorate in water and fast turn into a pro-oxidant or free radical within 3-4 hours and can eventually turn brown. Instability of Vitamin C limits the forms in which it can be used to achieve effective results. Skinstitut's Chirally corrected L-Ascorbic Acid is in pure powder form and does not suffer from the above-mentioned limitations, providing the most effective and stable form available on the market.

For further details phone Skinstitute 02 9460 7559. 㤵 㜵

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Fruitilicious by Sranrom is a NEW Tropical Collection of bodycare and skincare products. The Body Collection has three fragrances and includes scrumptious sugar scrubs, decadent body creams, nourishing hand creams, bath and massage oils, as well as gorgeous Gift Packs and Travel Sizes. Watermelon Breeze was created for those who need the nourishment and moisture of aloe, green tea and longan honey to quench thirsty skin. Mango Passion combines three different Vitamin C rich tropical fruits – Mango, Passionfruit and Pineapple to brighten the skin and keep it feeling and looking rejuvenated. Lychee Delicious is a joyful assortment of juicy Lychee, Pomegranate and Longan, which together hydrate your skin in a sweet and sour indulgence. The range is completed by a small skincare collection – Papaya Rejuvenate. Papaya is a very nutritious fruit, widely known for its high antioxidant content and the natural exfoliating benefits of papain. Papaya also has hydration properties to keep the skin feeling rejuvenated, blended with mango and pineapple to complete this fruity cocktail. All products are free of parabens and retail prices start from just $14.95. These products are so pure and delicious they will walk off your shelf.

Dynamic Skin Solutions Phone: 02 9525 8368. Email: info@dynamicskinsolutions.com.au

ULTIMATE RECOVERYTM Advanced Skin Repair Medik8 has just launched a new product, Ultimate Recovery, a highly effective facial cream for intensive support of skin regeneration. It is an outstanding choice for post-treatment such as peels, skin needling, dermabrasion and lasers. It is an excellent supplement for skin in need of special care. Many cosmetic treatments offer amazing results, but they are often associated with downtime, redness, flakiness, peeling... It can take up to three weeks for the skin to fully recover. Ultimate Recovery can dramatically speed up the recovery process of the skin. It provides visibly better performance than a standard skin-recovery moisturiser. 'Medik8 Ultimate Recovery is a rich, soothing, calming cream that promotes tissue renewal. The skin appears smooth, even and refined, while scar tissue heals better and is less visible. Key ingredients: beta-Glucan / Silk Serica / Arnica / Perfluorodecalin. Use Ultimate Recovery in combination with true broad spectrum sunblock for an all-round protection. RRP $79. For further information please contact Advanced Cosmeceuticals on 1800 242 011 or visit www.medik8.com.au

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Scan to see APAN’s complete range of cards for you to order.

VENUS LEGACY – THE ULTIMATE MEDICAL AESTHETIC EXPERIENCE

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Venus Legacy™ is a non-surgical body-contouring device featuring revolutionary LiftFX™ and SculptFX™ technology to deliver brilliant anti-ageing results in the treatment of cellulite, fat reduction, skin tightening, wrinkle and stretchmark reduction. It is also the first, ever all-in-one device to utilise 4D technology, which combines Multi-Polar Radio Frequency (RF), Pulsed Electro Magnetic Fields (PEMF) and VariPulse™ (VP) technologies w i t h R e a l Ti m e T h e r m a l feedback. This allows the Venus Legacy™ to provide safe, painfree treatments for enhanced customer satisfaction and an impressive return on investment for your business. This revolutionary combination of technology can be used safely and painlessly on the face, neck, abdomen, thighs, arms and buttocks. The Venus Legacy delivers multiple effective treatments that produce collagen synthesis and contraction, fibroblast proliferation, neovascularity and lipolysis. Patients will enjoy a completely noninvasive treatment experience with no downtime or side-effects after the session, allowing them to continue their daily activities without downtime. Contract the Global Beauty Group 1300 660 687.

THE PERSONAL APPROACH IN MARKETING – POSTCARDS APAN have designed a collection of some 14 cards and gift vouchers that are niche, personalised and high-quality. Themed Gift Vouchers include Mother's Day, Just for Him for Father's Day, Christmas Day, Valentine's Day and a generic one that just says With Love. They are attractive and enticing. We also have postcards for you to wish your clients a Happy Birthday, Thank You for new clients and we also have two cards for clients you have not seen for some time. Visit www.apanetwork.com to see the full collection. Purchase 50 for just $40 or 100 for $70 and we will send them to you free of postage and handling. Phone 07 5593 0360 to place your order.

Line n Grow

for gorgeous eyelashes Line n Grow is perfect for anyone wanting longer, fuller eyelashes. It is especially beneficial for those with short, brittle or thinning eyelashes. Clinical studies have shown that Line n Grow is safe for contact-lens wearers and sensitive eyes. Containing powerful antioxidants, polypeptides, J a p a n e s e G r e e n Te a , Hyaluronic Acid and Rosemary extract, this incredible product will nourish, lengthen and grow lashes to their full potential. Line n Grow Tinted Lash Lengthener can be worn daily under additional makeup. For further details

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contact Be Beauty on Ph: 1300 885 101.

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salonprofile ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Val Parry is the owner of a wellestablished and successful business located in Boronia, Victoria known as Hairport 1 Hair and Beauty. A dedicated business woman, Val is cutting her niche in the fiercely competitive field of hair and beauty and is slowly inching her way to growth as a result of her hard work and determination. Val in a hairdresser with no beauty therapy training, yet she has grasped the opportunity to extend her services to also include skin and body treatments in order to retain her clients and grow her business. Highly motivated and exuding with a positive attitude and a dedicated determination to do what it takes to succeed, Val is well-deserving of her success and an inspiration to others. Here we share her story with you.

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HAIR PORT1 The Evolution of a Business

APJ Q1: Val, when and how did you get started in the beauty industry, what drew you to set up a salon? Val: As a hairdresser I started my own business back in 1987. I soon

advanced skin treatments, including IPL, tattoo removal, Microdermabrasion, massage, nail services, lash extensions and even ear candling.

relocated to larger premises. At the time there were some new emerging trends with Brazilian waxing and so I decided to introduce this service in a small room at the back of our salon as clients were talking about it and I saw the opportunity to provide them with this service. Quickly, waxing became one of our leading services, however, that was several years ago, but today it is no longer the case. Clients are more interested in permanent hair reduction and so we introduced IPL and saw the market shift in preference to this service.

APJ Q2: Val, tell us a little about the mix of services you provide and how have you made this work? Val: Originally, as we predominantly were a hair salon we looked at

When we established a waxing service we progressed to include lash tinting and from there the business slowly evolved. Today we have three beauty rooms and we offer numerous services, including

ways that we could provide other grooming services in order to retain our clients, this is why we turned to Brazilians and waxing in general. We then added lash tinting and nails. But we soon realised that we could continue to get clients back for other services such as facial, body massages, etc. With skincare we soon realised that we needed to invest in quality products and treatments. We stock Environ and Jane Iredale exclusively as we believe they are products with a credible reputation and meet with our clients' needs. The mix now is 50/50 between hair and beauty. We do cross-sell to convert our hair clients to beauty, but progressively we are also seeing that some will come in just for beauty, while others will still stick to our hairdressing services. Currently we have 11 hairdressers, some of them are juniors and some are seniors. In the beauty area we have two full-time beauty therapists and one part-time worker. We also work with a cosmetic doctor who visits us every 10 weeks to perform injectables on our clients. As you can see we are constantly looking at innovative ways to evolve and continue growing the business.

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APJ Q3: What are the most important characteristics you look for when hiring staff? Val: I would have to say that passion is one of the most

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important characteristics that I look for in potential staff,

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someone who is excited in coming to work because they love what they do and go about their work with enthusiasm and excitement. A good attitude is the second characteristic I look for. You can be the most qualified, but if you insist in always seeing the negative in others, you cannot move forward. A staff member who is always willing to see the good in other, has a positive attitude and is passionate about what she undertakes is a great investment. On the other hand, we spend quite a bit of time with our staff in staff development. We try to look after them as much as possible.

APJ Q4. What are you most passionate about in your business? Val: I would have to say that I love watching people grow, especially our staff. Seeing them grow in their confidence and skills is so rewarding. It is also fantastic to see when our clients come in and we can transform them to look and feel fantastic. Getting their hair done and also their skin and makeup, being able to offer them the opportunity to look their best gives me a real buzz and is so rewarding. This also gives our staff job satisfaction, which is so important.

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APJ Q5. From your own research and observation, are consumers becoming more demanding, and what changes in their expectations have you identified in the past few years? Val: The major thing that I have observed over the years is that consumers come in with a lot more knowledge and understanding on what they want. They often have Googled and found out exactly what they want, and what they are looking for is not so much for us to tell them, but to deliver what they want. To keep up with this demand we are committed to education with our staff. They undertake three full training session each year. We take them to special training programs and invest in keeping them educated and informed. It is important for them to gain an understanding on industry developments and to be up-to-date with their work. I am not a beauty therapist and for this reason I attend with them to learn and understand the industry. We are always looking at ways of improving.

APJ Q6: You joined APAN a few months ago, what made you decide to join as a member and what have you gained from this relationship? Val: As a business owner I need to be kept up-to-date on all industry matters. I am always looking for tools to achieve a better service and better understand the beauty side of the industry. APAN has several tools that can help me with this. Last year I attended the APAN Aesthetics Conference in Sydney, and can reach out and get good advice, support and tools. It's good to know there is someone I can turn to.

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APJ Q7: What vision do you have for your business over the next few years? Val: My aim is to increase my business revenue by 25% this year. After the global economic downturn we lost some business. I had to put off four staff, however, I am now looking to rebuild the business. I am also looking at making some changes taking on more of a managerial role rather than being hands on. My daughter, who is a hairdresser, will be taking care of the hairdressing. She is young and she will bring a more youthful vibe and dynamic to the business.

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Val Parry can be contacted at Hairport 1 Hair & Beauty Ph: (03) 9762 2245.

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atoadvice ㄰

Are you planning to

HIRE NEW STAFF?

!

They can be full-time, part-time or schoolbased.

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WHY ARE APPRENTICES AND TRAINEES NOT CONTRACTORS? You cannot engage an apprentice or trainee as a contractor as they are not running their own business.

Apprentices and trainees are in training and are usually required to work under the direction, control and supervision of their employer to earn their qualification, certificate or diploma. They are usually covered under an award and receive specific pay and conditions. By the very nature of the arrangement, apprentices and trainees are employees. If you are planning to hire new staff there are few things you need to consider and organise to meet your tax and super obligations. While most are attempting to get it right, there is still a lot of confusion in the industry on the issue of classifications and obligations when it comes to employing staff. In this article submitted by Kamal Hassan, Communications Advisor from the Australian Tax Officer, you will find some valuable information outlined to assist you.

EMPLOYEE OR CONTRACTOR When hiring a new worker it is important to know whether they're an employee or contractor. The ATO's employee/contractor decision tool can help you figure this out. http://ato.gov.au/Calculators-and-tools/Employee-or-contractor/ A worker isn't automatically a contractor just because they have an ABN or specialist skills or you only need them during busy periods. Basically, employees work in your business and are part of your business. Contractors are running their own business.

APPRENTICES AND TRAINEES ARE EMPLOYEES, NOT CONTRACTORS Apprentices and trainees are employees for tax and super purposes. This means if your business engages an apprentice or trainee, you will need to treat them as an employee and meet the required pay as you go (PAYG) withholding, super and fringe benefits tax (FBT) obligations. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Your business cannot treat an apprentice or trainee as a contractor, even if they have an Australian business number (ABN).

WHO ARE APPRENTICES AND TRAINEES? Apprentices and trainees:

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Do a combination of work and recognised training to get a qualification, certificate or diploma They have a formal training agreement with the business they work for which is registered through a State or Territory training authority or completed under a relevant law

Web address for more information: http://www.ato.gov.au/Business/Employee-or-contractor/Indetail/Apprentices-and-trainees/Apprentices-and-trainees-areemployees,-not-contractors/

SUPERANNUATION As an employer, you must pay super for your eligible employees and certain contractors. This is called the super guarantee. Your employees may also be eligible to choose the super fund you pay their super into. Generally, you have to pay super guarantee (SG) for an employee if you pay them $450 or more (before tax) in salary or wages in a calendar month. It doesn't matter whether the employee is full-time, part-time or casual. If your employee is under 18 years old then they must also work more than 30 hours per week to be eligible. You must pay a minimum of 9.25% of each eligible worker's ordinary time earnings each quarter. Ordinary time earnings (OTE) is usually the amount your employee earns for their ordinary hours of work. It includes things like commissions, shift loadings and allowances, but doesn't include overtime payments.

For each of your eligible workers you will need to do the following:

! !

Multiply their ordinary time earnings for the quarter by 9.25% Pay this amount to a complying super fund or retirement savings account by the quarterly cut-off date.

If you back-pay salary or wages to a former employee you have to pay super contributions on that back pay. You can claim a full tax deduction for super payments you make for employees by the cut-off date.

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When to pay

For more information visit:

You have to pay super guarantee contributions for each eligible worker at least four times a year. Payments must be made by the quarterly cut-off dates:

http://ato.gov.au/Business/Employers/Preparing-to-engageworkers/Super/

Quarter

Period

Payment cut-off date

PAY AS YOU GO (PAYG) WITHHOLDING

1

1 July―30 September

28 October

When you pay employees or contractors, you may need to withhold tax from their pay and send these amounts to the ATO regularly.

2

1 October―31 December

28 January

You will need to withhold tax from:

3

1 January―31 March

28 April

4

1 April―30 June

28 July

What you must do if you haven't met your obligations If you haven't met your super obligations as an employer, you have to lodge a Superannuation guarantee charge statement quarterly and pay a super guarantee charge to us.

You'll have to do this if you don't pay:

! ! !

Enough super contributions for your worker, this is called a super guarantee shortfall Super contributions by the quarterly cut-off date for payment Super to your worker's chosen super fund, this is called a choice liability.

The super guarantee charge is made up of the super guarantee shortfall amounts (including any choice liability), interest at 10% per annum, and an administration fee of $20 per worker per quarter. Also, your business will lose the tax deduction it would normally get. Late super contributions and the super guarantee charge are not tax deductible.

! ! !

Employees Contractors who have a voluntary agreement with you Contractors who do not provide you with an ABN.

For more information on what you need to do, visit http://ato.gov.au/Business/Employers/Preparing-to-engageworkers/Pay-as-you-go-(PAYG)-withholding/

CAN I CLAIM STAFFING EXPENSES? Most of the expenses you incur as a result of engaging workers are eligible tax deductions. Generally you can claim deductions for expenses you incur in paying for: ! Advertising or hiring ! Vehicle, phone, office and other expenses ! Wages, allowances, commissions and bonuses ! Contractors and intermediaries for example, a labour hire firm ! Superannuation to your eligible employees and contractors ! Fringe benefits, including any fringe benefits tax (FBT) you pay. For more information about hiring new staff, visit http://ato.gov.au/Business/Employers/Preparing-to-engage-workers/

Skin Care with the unique & exclusive d'vine® complex

Experience the luxury, see the results!

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INTERNET PROTECTED | CHIRAL | PARABEN FREE | 100% MARK-UP | RRP BELOW $95

Dynamic Skin Solutions P 02 9525 8368 E info@dynamicskinsolutions.com.au W www.dynamicskinsolutions.com.au


businessskills Etiquette is a word some might feel is old-fashioned. However, in an industry that thrives on the value of a great customer experience the skills of etiquette has never been more important.

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So what is etiquette and how can it help you grow your salon business? ㈵

Etiquette can be defined as a code of polite conduct. If you practice proper etiquette, you are less likely to offend or annoy people – and you may even charm them.

Many people think etiquette is about table manners in fancy restaurants, but quite simply, it is expected behavior that shows respect and conduct that is meant to make everyone feel comfortable. For example, an etiquette book will tell you to bring a little gift when you are a dinner guest in someone's home, especially if it is your first visit you know what is expected of you, and your gift shows respect and gratitude. Etiquette may be defined as the conventional rules governing socially acceptable behavior. Etiquette is a code of polite conduct and is a vital personal discipline that can make or break your career and success. If you practise proper etiquette, you are less likely to offend or annoy people. Instead, you will build rapport and trust quickly and easily. Many people think etiquette is about table manners, but quite simply, it is understanding and practising behaviour that meets with social and cultural expectations. It demonstrates respect and is all about making everyone feel comfortable. Etiquette extends beyond your dining skills to how you communicate, dress, act, entertain and conduct yourself in all situations. Knowing what is expected of you can pave the way to better relationships in your personal and professional lives.

ETIQUETTE and your Competitive Advantage By Julie Hyne ㄰ 㤵 㜵

As businesses experience a significant increase in competition, being able to achieve the competitive advantage has become even more important. While others may have similar products and services as your business, it is sometimes the intangibles that can make all the difference in attracting and keeping your clients coming back to you. One intangible yet powerful tool that is gaining greater focus and momentum in recent times is the all-important issue of salon etiquette. In this article, accredited trainer and expert Julie Hyne addresses the need and value of etiquette in the contemporary salon, and how it can contribute to business growth and sustained client loyalty.

HISTORY OF ETIQUETTE Up until the 1900s etiquette was taught in schools, but from the 1960s, manners have become a lot more relaxed, and people are defining their own set of rules about etiquette. In fact, a 2011 survey conducted in the US reported that “76% of Americans think that society is more rude and less civilised than they were 20-30 years ago and that the general tone and civility in people is a problem”. Manners, it seems, are taking a nosedive. In a business environment, the lack of manners can be quite damaging. Businesses that have incivility, insufficient and inconsistent etiquette practices in their dealings with clients and team members experience a negative effect on productivity and client retention. It also can seriously affect their business reputation. On the other hand, workplaces that actively promote a civil work environment have significantly higher productivity and customer loyalty. (Source: The Emily Post Institute) Salon businesses are no exception. It makes sense that with competition so high, working on the more intangible, yet allimportant softer skills of their staff, and employing etiquette protocols in all areas of their salon business, would be of great value. It's no

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longer enough to have the best products, the best salon fit-out and the latest equipment. Salons need to step up to what clients really want, which is a fabulous experience from start to finish. This includes how they are greeted, spoken to, understood, and how professionally the consultation is performed. It includes the verbal and non-verbal aspects of communications that demonstrate appreciation and respect, and ensure your clients are always made to feel welcome and at ease.

The frightening thing is that today's clients have numerous choices and if you neglect the area of etiquette you can very easily 'turn them off'. A turn-off to a client can be as simple as playing the wrong music or having it too loud, not offering a refreshment, being 'rushed' during a treatment, not returning phone messages that clients have left, and the list can go on. Without specific etiquette protocols salons can be guilty of such neglect that can lead to losing their clients.

Unfortunately, etiquette, while essential, is a forgotten discipline and skill. The finer rules of interaction are no longer taught. In the ’60s and ’70s most beauty therapists or aestheticians in Europe were required to also complete a finishing school that included salon etiquette. For this reason aesthetics was considered a refined and gentile profession. However, in recent years we have neglected the benefit of identifying and training in the art of etiquette the need to rediscover its value and worth has once again become important.

Here are some essential elements for practising good etiquette:

Imagine walking into a salon and being made to feel unwelcome by a therapist with a blank face, no smile, an unfriendly approach, or who ignored you. How would you feel? Etiquette is what makes life more pleasant when you are working with other people or serving other people. Good etiquette also helps build and strengthen relationships. You simply cannot be anything other than pleasant and responsive to someone who is polite and well mannered to you. If, on the other hand, you feel ignored, brushed off, 'sold to' or an inconvenience, then chances are you'll retort to similar behavior and won't want to return. I have seen too many therapists and salon owners behave in a way that doesn't earn them any respect or recognition. They communicate their feelings through bad body language, telltale facial expressions, and lack of eye contact while speaking to clients. You have to wonder if they really want that client to rebook or return. Salon owners I speak to consistently complain about having lost tens of thousand of dollars in turnover from staff that just cannot communicate well and with sufficient decorum and courtesy to ensure the respect and engagement of their clients. This also then affects client loyalty. Clients are left unimpressed by their indifference and lack of appreciation and they vote this disapproval with their feet. In an industry where a client will seek out a salon to satisfy their desire to look and feel great, why do we neglect the value of etiquette in this equation? Are salon owners blind? Can they not see there are so many choices available to their client? It doesn't take much to be pleasant, present professionally and with pride, know your product and services, and how that benefits the client. Conversation and communication is what we do everyday. Good conversation engages clients and allows you to build trust and rapport quickly, and that's what will build a loyal client base.

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Etiquette is something you learn. It is part of the 'social rules' we live by and are taught from a young age, and it sets the scene as to how we are to interact with others. Without etiquette, the world would seem like a less welcoming place!

Each day you communicate in your business with your presentation, language, through your written message in email, newsletters and social media, as well as with your voice over the phone and in person. Etiquette applies to every area of your business. Without etiquette, you run the risk of offending, upsetting and turning away potential loyal clients.

1. Be friendly and polite. Smile and define your salon's client greeting. First impressions are so powerful 2. Practise good eye contact and posture when greeting and talking with clients 3. Run your appointment book on time 4. Respect your fellow team members and your client when you address them 5. Engage in conversation that lets the client talk about herself. Clients don't want to hear about your personal problems. This is their time and they need to be allowed to engage with you 6. Don't interrupt or appear to be a know-it-all in front of clients 7. Don't engage in negative talk about your team members or workplace, or anything that positions your salon in a bad light 8. Ensure your client is comfortable at all times and gain their feedback on this 9. Be professional and respectful of your position, and how you project your image. This is what clients are attracted to from the start 10. Have integrity and follow through at all times with what you have promised your client so that they can be assured of your reliability.

Does this sound like common sense? Yes it is, but too often common sense does not prevail and your business suffers. I know salons are losing substantial business over time from loyal clients going elsewhere. If you could retain every client not only by your exceptional skills, knowledge and products, but also by your soft skills and etiquette, then you have a recipe for success. Etiquette is a skill that can be learnt. This is an area that I specialise in. I would love to help you establish appropriate protocols in your salon that will ensure your staff's conduct is always exemplary and one that consistently draws clients back to your business. Without good etiquette practices, your clients can be left feeling indifferent and compelled to seek another treatment environment. If you would like to take action in this area I welcome you to contact me directly on 0433 114 841 or email info@business4beauty.com About JULIE HYNE Julie Hyne is an internationally renowned and accredited Stylist, Image consultant and personal branding specialist who has worked in industries where image and style are vitally important. Her recent accomplishments include launching an online salon success training program, Business4Beauty, and has written her first book Invaluable – what every salon owner wanting success needs to know. Julie is accredited and on the Melbourne Chapter Board with the AICI (Association of Image Consultants International), a past salon owner, and holds a Bachelor of Business, Diploma of Modelling, Certificate in TV and Media Presenting, and Certificate IV in Training and Assessment. Julie is a sought-after speaker on all matters relating to professional readiness, etiquette and corporate dress code. Business4Beauty – Salon Image and Etiquette training. www.business4beauty.com

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businesssales ㄰

Reaching your SALES TARGETS WITH EASE

APJ#Q1: Trevor, how would you compare the difference between the sales process in a traditional retail environment compared to selling in a salon environment, and how do they differ? Trevor: I think it depends on what type of retail environment we are

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An interview with Trevor Russell

Trevor Russell is well-known as the man you turn to when you need your sales figures to improve. He has an incredible reputation for helping businesses reach their sales target goals and beyond, while making the process also fun. Trevor has worked with businesses from several industries, including beauty and medical cosmetic clinics and supply companies, and understands the unique characteristics that set each industry apart. We spoke with Trevor and put to him several important questions on how salons could gain from his knowledge.

comparing. For this example, let's say you're comparing a lady buying a dress in a David Jones. Here the customer service person needs to be able to build trust and rapport and be well versed with good product knowledge of what she has available to sell. She then needs to determine the lady’s purpose for purchasing the dress – is she buying it for a casual outing or for a more formal occasion? This process is quite simple. On the other hand, the difference I see in comparing the selling process in a salon is that the therapist will not only need to build rapport and trust with the client, but will also need to demonstrate that they are a highly skilled, experienced and trusted practitioner. The level of skill here is more complex and the higher the complexity of the knowledge that is needed the higher the fee that can be charged

for the service. On the other hand, higher fees must be supported with a higher degree of knowledge and perceived expertise. The client purchasing experience in a salon environment is not a onceoff. It requires the recommendation of home treatment products as well as the necessary ongoing treatment services for maintenance and continued improvement of results. To achieve this requires specific strategies that will direct the client gently across a sales pathway that is delivered in a more sophisticated and consistently disciplined manner. The objective should involve maximum cross-selling in the actual treatments, packages, homecare treatment products to the rebookings and follow-up bookings.

APJ#Q2: Why do you believe that salon business owners struggle to get their staff to retail successfully? Trevor: I call it the money gap. Let's compare the natural qualities of highly performing salon staff. They are focused on productivity, performance and sales. This is why they are often the business owner. It's what they are designed to do – bring entrepreneurship to the planet. Now let's look at many of the staff working in the salon. Their most common natural qualities are to support and nurture – this is why they were drawn to the beauty industry in the first place. They want to make people feel beautiful and cared for. It is not within their nature to be outgoing, jump out of bed in the morning and say, “Yeah I'm going to sell a heap of products today and achieve lots of rebookings and follow-up calls with clients that haven't been in the salon for three months”.

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This is where the skills gap exists and it requires patient training to help convert caring therapists into successful saleswomen.

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APJ#Q3: How can a business manager overcome this problem with their staff? Trevor: First, it is important for the business manager to understand and recognise that these different skill sets will exist. However, with consistent training, support and praise these new skills can be developed, but the fundamentals will more than likely need to be constantly and continuously reinforced through ongoing training and good communication. It is unrealistic to assume that these skills are present in everyone, even if they come natural to the manager or owner. Furthermore, if they are not reinforced on a consistent basis therapists will more than likely revert to their old comfort zone of being nurturers and carers. It's your job as the business manager to continue to motivate your team to do what doesn't come natural to them.

APJ#Q4: What would be the fundamental disciplines that a business will need to have in place to achieve high sales figures and profits? Trevor: It is important that staff be first and foremost encouraged to take good care of themselves. When you get good food and exercise you feel better and have more focus and energy to do your work with passion and interest. Have brief but consistent team meetings each day outlining the sales objectives for the day. Make sure everyone is clear on the bookings and product sales that will make the day a financial success. Everyone needs to be on the same page. Have good product training so everyone is skilled and educated on the wonderful benefits of each product and service they will be providing their clients with. Conduct ongoing communication on client engagement and sales training. Everyone must clearly understand that while they are responsible to master the technical skills needed to provide resultsdriven treatments, at the end of the day they are actually in the business of sales. It is also important to continue to set the team up for success by providing good systems that make their job of selling easy and straight forward. Give them positive praise and rewards for work well done.

APJ#Q5: What is the No.#1 critical key factor that is needed to achieve success in sales within a salon or spa environment? Trevor: For everyone in the salon to be clear on the sales numbers that will make the business successful, supported with an action plan for how the sales targets can be achieved. ㄰ 㤵

This is about being open and transparent as a business manager, not only with your staff, but also with yourself on what is truly needed in terms of strategy, training motivation and encouragement in order to achieve the target figures you need to reach.

Note: It can be challenging for business managers to know how to develop and set these critical sales figure estimates, so as an addendum to this most important point, remember a challenge shared is a challenge solved. Don't be afraid to ask for assistance to get clear on these figures. I know APAN has highly experienced people including myself that can help in this area.

APJ#Q6: Why do you believe that high achievers always seem to have an external person who directs and motivates their success? Trevor: Tina, it's first because they recognise and understand they don't have all the answers, and second, they have the wisdom to know that if they want to be truly successful they can save massive amounts of time and energy and bypass failure by seeking and embracing the advice from someone who has already done it, and has the knowhow and experience in the area that they seek to know and master themselves.

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APJ#Q7: What do you believe is the reason that many salons are reluctant to engage in external help to help them reach their financial goals? Trevor: This comes down to a number of factors. Their perception that external help is not really going to give them the true support and results they are seeking and only see it as a major cost to the business. Then we sometimes find that many consultants and coaches don't know how to structure their services as a value proposition to measure results and increase sales, therefore supporting the belief around cost by the salon owner. No doubt also, many salon owners are often so caught up in just getting through the day that they can't see the trees through the forest. In other words, it's not even in their possibility thinking to seek external professional help as often they are not clear in what they are seeking as support and solutions to their concerns. As a result they often die to their vision or belief that they can become a profitable salon.

APJ#Q8: How do you overcome the fear that the external consultation or coaching will not bring results? Trevor: This comes down to the skill and experience of the consultant or coach to be able to develop a clear value proposition for the salon. One way of doing this after detailed consultation with the salon owner and team is to determine goals and objectives and develop a plan on how to do it. This plan is built together in collaboration between the business owner and the experienced consultant or coach. Together they map out the specific activities that will lead to the specific measurable targets that will present the value of the service. For example the target goal may be to achieve a $10,000 increase in salon sales through the use of the consultant’s systems, tools, sales and marketing and team development strategies, while the fee for service is identified as $1500. This would sound reasonable. If the increase in sales target is achieved, this would amount to a 600% + return on the investment – not a bad return for money invested. It is important that the perceived value must be the ultimate aim from a consulting service with specific and measurable outcomes.

APJ#Q9: Other than one-on-one business and sales consulting/coaching, do you do any group training and who would be a good candidate for these sessions? Trevor: Yes, I do group training both within my clients' businesses with their team as well as group training in a boardroom style, and what I am most excited about now is doing group training over the Internet using GoToWebinar or Skype. How good is technology, we can now be of service to anyone in the world.

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WHO'S TREVOR RUSSELL? Trevor Russell is a highly experienced business strategist, author, consultant and coach. He trains individuals and businesses in achieving optimum sales results in their business. He also offers training in the art of public speaking in a way that will assist business owners to effectively engage their audience to connect with their business.

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Trevor is energetic, entertaining and very skilled in how to make businesses and their team work efficiently to achieve great success, sales and profits. He is passionate about bringing out the best in business owners and their team and has worked with over 200 businesses across many industries.

I also conduct training for supply and distribution companies and their sales team.

APJ#Q10: Do you have a special offer for APAN members to review how you could help them in their problem areas? Trevor: Sure, I would be very happy to offer a complementary initial one-hour consultation with APAN members to discuss what they would like to improve and achieve from their business. If anyone wants to take up this offer they can email him at info@trevorrussell.com.au or phone 0414 813 018.

He specialises in teaching people how to master the art of sales skills, professional speaking, business leadership and team training and motivation. His aim is to lead you to revolutionise your professional and business skills to be masterful. For further information on how he can assist you please contact Trevor Russell at Russell Revolution Training Services on 0414 813 018 or by emailing info@trevorrussell.com.au www.trevorrussell.com.au

YOU ARE NOT ALONE HELP IS AT HAND The good news is that you don’t have to become an IT expert to protect your computer and business from the perils on the Internet. There is help available through Kharis Enterprises, a AVG accredited reseller.

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You can enroll in the AVG Cloudd and pay a small fee monthly to have your Internet Security Service monitored, updated and controlled without you having to worry about anything. Alternatively you can purchase standalone AVG Business Internet Security Software. Whatever your level of need Kharis can offer you a tailored solution – from a complete externally monitored and controlled system to a stand-alone business-level Internet Software. You will be surprised at how simple it is to implement and how costeffective the solution can be. With the Internet your location is not a problem to work with your system – we simply log on remotely and set everything up. Leaving you to do what you do best – your business. Contact Mark at Kharis Enterprises on 0412 177 423 or avg@kharis.com and let him give you peace of mind.

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The Healing Benefits of

BIRCH BARK

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By Tina Viney ㈵

The benefits of Birch Bark (Betula alba) are well known in the aromatherapy world, particularly for its use in pain relief, however, as new research comes to light its benefits and use in skincare appear to be of great interest.

Birch bark, the source of raw material for betulin extract, is normally removed from cut trees. Prepared raw material is consequently dried in the open air. It is officially used for medicinal purposes in several countries, including Russia, USA and many other countries.

THERAPEUTIC ACTION OF BIRCH Birch is a natural pain reliever containing salicylate, the compound found in aspirin. Salicylate relieves the inflammation and pain associated with osteoarthritis, rheumatoid arthritis, gout and generalised muscle pain. Salicylate deters the body's production of certain prostaglandins that are linked to inflammation, pain and fever, among other things. Another reason birch calms arthritis and gout is because of its cleansing and diuretic action that eliminates toxins and excess water. For this reason sweet birch can have good results also against cellulite, and you will find it in several treatment-strength cellulite skincare products. The antibacterial and anti-inflammatory actions of birch bark support its traditional use in several skin disorders such as eczema, mature skin and cellulite. Traditional healers have long considered the leaves of the white and silver birch effective for skin rashes and hair loss. The essential oil of birch is astringent and has many benefits as I will indicate further in this article, and while highly beneficial, must be used with great caution, as used incorrectly it can be dermatoxic. There are several species of birch, for example the American species Betula lenta (sweet birch, cherry birch) oil is almost identical with wintergreen oil, but is not as toxic. Still, the methyl salicylate it contains can have harmful effects if used unwisely. However, birch bark and leaf in whole herb form have a much lower toxicity. Some interesting new research confirms that betulin and betulinic acid, both present in birch bark, display some anticancer and antitumor properties. Although not touted as a stand-alone cure for cancer, these constituents add another reason to employ birch in healing remedies and help to validate its history of use from ancient times until today. The latest research has identified the three important compounds in birch bark from which researchers aim to derive nutritional supplements, cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. These are betulin, lupeol and betulinic acid. All exhibit anti-inflammatory properties that have been shown to reduce cholesterol and blood pressure, treat fungal and bacterial infections, stimulate the immune system and speed healing of skin tissue.

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SKIN-REGENERATING PROPERTIES Scientists in Germany have recently also identified botulin extract from birch bark as having a positive effect on wound healing and skin rejuvenation.

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A team of researchers headed by Dr Irmagard Merfort from the Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences of the University of Freiburg in Germany, who led a recent study on birch bark, confirmed the wound healing and skin-regeneration properties of birch bark. He confirmed the studies identified the molecular mechanism behind birch bark extract that contributes to its wound-healing properties. To better understand how birch bark contributes to wound healing let's take a brief review on the three phases of wound healing. These are the inflammatory phase, proliferation phase and the maturation phase. The inflammatory phase is the body's natural response to injury. After initial wounding, the blood vessels in the wound bed contract, and a clot is formed. Once haemostasis has been achieved, blood vessels then dilate to allow essential cells; antibodies, white blood cells, growth factors, enzymes and nutrients, to reach the wounded area. This leads to a rise in exudate levels, so the surrounding skin needs to be monitored for signs of maceration. It is at this stage that the characteristic signs of inflammation can be seen; erythema, heat, oedema, pain and functional disturbance. The predominant cells at work here are the phagocytic cells; neutrophils and macrophages, mounting a host response and autolysing any devitalised necrotic/ sloughy tissue. At this phase the scientists determined that birch bark extract and, in particular, its main ingredient, betulin, does in fact temporarily increase the amount of these inflammatory substances. Betulin activates proteins that extend the half-life of messenger ribonucleic acid (mRNA), and triples the time in which the mRNA of a particular messenger remains stable. This messenger enables more of the protein in question, in this case the inflammatory substances, to be produced. In addition, the birch bark extract and betulin also stabilised the mRNA of further messengers. During proliferation, the wound is 'rebuilt' with new granulation tissue, which is comprised of collagen and extracellular matrix and into which a new network of blood vessels develop, a process known as 'angiogenesis'. Healthy granulation tissue is dependent upon the fibroblast receiving sufficient levels of oxygen and nutrients supplied by the blood vessels. Healthy granulation tissue is granular and uneven in texture; it does not bleed easily and is pink/red in colour. The colour and condition of the granulation tissue is often an indicator of how the wound is healing. Dark granulation tissue can be indicative of poor perfusion, ischaemia and/or infection. Epithelial cells finally resurface the wound, a process known as 'epithelialisation'.

Maturation is the final phase and occurs once the wound has closed. This phase involves remodelling of collagen from type III to type I. Cellular activity reduces and the number of blood vessels in the wounded area regress and decrease. At this phase birch bark extract activates proteins that are involved in

the restructuring of the actin cytoskeleton, which gives the cell its shape with the help of the structural protein actin. In this way, the substances from the birch cause keratinocytes to migrate more quickly into the wound, healing and closing it more rapidly. The findings were published in the journal Plos One. The team cooperated with several other departments and institutes, such as a research group from the Institute of Molecular Medicine and Cell Research and the Institute of Experimental and Clinical Pharmacology of the University of Freiburge, as well as several other research groups.

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BIRCH BARK EXTRACTS BLOCK CERVICAL AND SKIN CANCER GROWTH Another team of medical researchers from Romania's Victor Babes University of Medicine and Pharmacy have confirmed that an extract of birch-tree bark also stops the growth of cervical and skin cancer cells. The finding confirms previous research done by Romanian and Polish medical researchers that have all found that betulin stops the proliferation of certain cancerous cells into tumors. The researchers tested the betulin derivative betulinic acid against three types of human cancer cells in the laboratory. These included cervical-cancer cells (HeLa cells), breast-cancer cells (MCF7 cells) and skin-cancer cells (epidermoid carcinoma A431 cells). An MTT assay and the fluorescence double-staining analysis were conducted on the cells after treatment with the birch extract. The MTT assay measures the activity of cellular enzymes, which stimulate circulatory activity among cells. This study found that the birch-tree extract blocked the ability of the cancerous cells from creating circulatory systems, which enable them to expand and become tumors. This process of creating circulatory systems – typically through capillaries – is called angiogenesis: The creation of blood vessels among groups of cancer cells. This study found the birch bark extract was especially effective among the cervical-cancer cells and the skin-cancer cells. It also found, that betulin induced the reduction of newly formed capillaries, especially in the mesenchyme. This finding is critical in the comprehensive understanding of the ability of birch-tree bark to stop cancer growth. At least three previous studies have established that the birch-tree bark extract also stimulates the kill-switch among cancer cells – also called apoptotic cell death. One of the ways that cancer cells avoid the immune system is that they produce genetic changes that block the cells' normal kill-switch,

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which can be triggered by the immune system when the immune system senses that a cell has mutated. Two previous studies – one from May of 2012 and another from 2006 from Poland's Curie-Sklodowska University – confirmed that betulin was able to undo this genetic block, allowing cancer cells to be killed.

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The earlier 2012 research found that betulin was more powerful than its derivative, betulinic acid, in promoting cell death among the cancer cells.

BIRCH BARK ESSENTIAL OIL As an essential oil, birch bark oil can offer relief from many conditions both for skin and body. Below are some recommendations.

THERAPEUTIC CONSTITUENTS: As an essential oil birch bark oil is a volatile oil which includes the camphor-like betulin. The young leaves of the plant are rich in saponins, that is a flavonoid derivative, hyperoside resin, tannins, esquiterpenes, betuloventic acid, vitamin C, betulinol and glycosides. SKIN: Often used in preparations for mature, sun-damaged and problem skin conditions as a skin softener. As it also has an astringent action it can be effectively used as a skin tonic to tighten pores and reduce the appearance of skin sagging and wrinkles. It also has antiseptic and disinfectant properties that can protect the skin from bacterial and fungal infection. MIND: Sweet birch oil can help stimulate the nervous system and lift feelings of depression.

BODY: Sweet birch oil is mainly used to treat joint and muscle pain. It has powerful pain-relieving, anti-inflammatory and anti-spasmodic properties that are beneficial for conditions such as lumbago, sciatica, neuralgia, gout and fibromyalgia, etc. It can be used in massage blends and is also often added to liniments and ointments to help ease aches and pains. It can also be used inhalationally for respiratory conditions to open the airways, clear the sinuses and stimulate the mind (blend with Ravensara or Eucalyptus for this). It has detoxifying and diuretic properties, helps to stimulate the circulation, improves digestion, and can reduce fever by promoting perspiration. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: Sweet birch oil is potentially toxic and may cause irritation. It should be always used with caution and the correct dilution. Its main constituent is methyl salicylate (the active ingredient in aspirin). CONTRAINDICATIONS: It should not be used on anyone who is sensitive/allergic to aspirin, has liver problems, is on blood thinning medication, has epilepsy or is subject to seizure. It should also be avoided with children and the elderly and also while pregnant or breast feeding. Always conduct a patch test before using.

CONCLUSION As new research finding on birch bark is coming to light, look out for this ingredient in skincare formulations for face and body. If you are a trained aromatherapist, birch-bark oil is a wonderful oil that you can use for numerous conditions, but ensure you used it with the appropriate precautions. REFERENCES

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Dehelean CA, Feflea S, Molnár J, Zupko I, Soica C. Betulin as an antitumor agent tested in vitro on A431, HeLa and MCF7, and as an angiogenic inhibitor in vivo in the CAM assay. Nat Prod Commun. 2012 Aug;7(8):981-5. Soica CM, Dehelean CA, Peev C, Aluas M, Zupkó I, Kása P Jr, Alexa E. Physicochemical comparison of betulinic acid, betulin and birch bark extract and in vitro investigation of their cytotoxic effects towards skin epidermoid carcinoma (A431), breast carcinoma (MCF7) and cervix adenocarcinoma (HeLa) cell lines. Nat Prod Res. 2012;26(10):968-74. Rzeski W, Stepulak A, Szymański M, Juszczak M, Grabarska A, Sifringer M, Kaczor J, Kandefer-Szerszeń M. Betulin elicits anti-cancer effects in tumour primary cultures and cell lines in vitro. Basic Clin Pharmacol Toxicol. 2009 Dec;105(6):425-32. Rzeski W, Stepulak A, Szymański M, Sifringer M, Kaczor J, Wejksza K, Zdzisińska B, Kandefer-Szerszeń M. Betulinic acid decreases expression of bcl-2 and cyclin D1, inhibits proliferation, migration and induces apoptosis in cancer cells. Naunyn Schmiedebergs Arch Pharmacol. 2006 Oct;374(1):11-20.

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS

PTEN, a gene important in regulating the cell's response to signalling pathways," White said. "Therefore, stem cell quiescence is a novel form of tumor suppression in hairfollicle stem cells, and PTEN must be present for the suppression to work."

Cancer-prevention strategies should improve with the discovery that adult stem cells suppress cancer while dormant Researchers at UCLA's Eli and Edythe Broad Center of Regenerative Medicine and Stem Cell Research have discovered a mechanism by which certain adult stem cells suppress their ability to initiate skin cancer during their dormant phase – an understanding that could be exploited for better cancer-prevention strategies.

Understanding cancer suppression through quiescence could better inform preventative strategies for certain patients, such as organtransplant recipients, who are particularly susceptible to squamous cell carcinoma, and for those taking the drug vemurafenib for melanoma, another type of skin cancer. The study also may reveal parallels between squamous cell carcinoma and other cancers in which stem cells have a quiescent phase.

The study, which was led by UCLA postdoctoral fellow Andrew White and William Lowry, an associate professor of molecular, cell and developmental biology who holds the Maria Rowena Ross Term Chair in Cell Biology in the UCLA College of Letters and Science, was published online in the journal Nature Cell Biology. Hair-follicle stem cells, the tissue-specific adult stem cells that generate the hair follicles, are also the cells of origin for cutaneous squamous cell carcinoma, a common skin cancer. These stem cells cycle between periods of activation (during which they can grow) and quiescence (when they remain dormant). ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Using mouse models, White and Lowry applied known cancer-causing genes to hairfollicle stem cells and found that during their dormant phase the cells could not be made to initiate skin cancer. Once they were in their active period, however, they began growing cancer.

"We found that this tumor suppression via adult stem cell quiescence was mediated by

How cells remodel after UV radiation Researchers at the University of California, San Diego School of Medicine, with colleagues in The Netherlands and United Kingdom, have produced the first map detailing the network of genetic interactions underlying the cellular response to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The researchers say their study establishes a new method and resource for exploring in greater detail how cells are damaged by UV radiation and how they repair themselves. UV damage is one route to malignancy, especially in skin cancer, and understanding the underlying repair pathways will better help scientists to understand what goes wrong in such cancers.

The findings were published in the December 26, 2013 issue of Cell Reports. Principal investigator Trey Ideker, PhD, division chief of genetics in the UC San Diego School of Medicine and a professor in the UC San Diego Departments of Medicine and Bioengineering, and colleagues mapped 89 UV-induced functional interactions among 62 protein complexes. The interactions were culled from a larger measurement of more than 45,000 double mutants, the deletion of two separate genes, before and after different doses of UV radiation.

Specifically, they identified interactive links to the cell's chromatin structure remodelling (RSC) complex, a grouping of protein subunits that remodel chromatin – the combination of DNA and proteins that make up a cell's nucleus – during cell mitosis or division. "We show that RSC is recruited to places on genes or DNA sequences where UV damage has occurred and that it helps facilitate efficient repair by promoting nucleosome remodelling," said Ideker. The process of repairing DNA damage caused by UV radiation and other sources, such as chemicals and other mutagens, is both simple and complicated. DNA-distorting lesions are detected by a cellular mechanism called the nucleotide excision repair (NER) pathway. The lesion is excised; the gap filled with new genetic material copied from an intact DNA strand by special enzymes; and the remaining nick sealed by another specialised enzyme. However, NER does not work in isolation; rather it coordinates with other biological mechanisms, including RSC. "DNA isn't free-floating in the cell, but is packaged into a tight structure called chromatin, which is DNA wound around proteins," said Rohith Srivas, PhD, a former research scientist in Ideker's lab and the study's first author. "In order for repair factors to fix DNA damage, they need access to naked DNA. This is where chromatin remodellers come in: In theory, they can be recruited to the DNA, open it up and allow repair factors to do their job."

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Rohith said that other scientists have previously identified complexes that perform this role following UV damage. "Our results are novel because they show RSC is connected to both UV damage pathways: transcription coupled repair – which acts on parts of DNA being expressed – and global genome repair, which acts everywhere. All previous remodellers were linked only to global genome repair." The scientists noted that the degree of genetic rewiring correlates with the dose of UV. Reparative interactions were observed at distinct low or high doses of UV, but not both. While genetic interactions at higher doses is not surprising, the authors said, the findings suggest low-dose UV radiation prompts specific interactions as well.

In detail, decreased signalling of the BMP pathway and increased signalling of the Wnt pathway triggered hair growth, while increased BMP signalling and reduced Wnt signalling caused hair-follicle stem cells (hfSCs) to adopt a “resting state”.

The researchers discovered that these two proteins trigger signals that are critical for the regulation of stem cells during new hair growth.

Researchers from the University of Southern California say they have made a number of new discoveries that could lead to potential hair-regeneration treatment, and even skin regeneration. This is according to three studies published in the journals Stem Cells and The Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. According to the American Hair Loss Association, around two-thirds of US men will have experienced some degree of hair loss by the age of 35, and around 85% of men will have significantly thinning hair by the age of 50.

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Although hair loss is typically associated with men, figures state that women make up 40% of all hair-loss sufferers in the US, showing that hair loss is a condition that can affect us all. But the team of researchers, led by Dr. Krzysztof Kobielak, say they have uncovered some of the factors that determine when hair grows, when it stops growing, and when it falls out – factors that could lead to new treatments to combat baldness or receding hair lines.

For their first study, published in January this year, the research team discovered a series of genes, including the Wnt and BMP signalling pathways. These pathways were found to control hair growth cycles.

In another study, published in S e p t e m b e r t h i s y e a r, t h e investigators analysed the function of two key proteins found in the BMP signalling pathway – Smad1 and Smad5.

New discoveries could lead to hair and skin regeneration

How Stem cells 'regenerate hair follicles'

In the latest study, published last month, the investigators analysed how the gene Wnt7b – which they first came across in their initial study – activates hair growth. They found that impairment of Wnt7b stunts hair growth. Overall, their research suggests that hfCS are able to regenerate hair follicles. The hfSCs are controlled by the BMP and Wnt signalling pathways, which combine to control cell functions, such as the cycles of hair growth.

Treatment potential broader than baldness But Kobielak says their findings could lead to new treatments, not only for baldness, but for many human diseases. He explains: "Since BMP signalling has a key regulatory role in maintaining the stability of different types of adult stem cell populations, the implication for future therapies might be potentially much broader than baldness, and could include skin regeneration for burn patients and skin cancer.” Earlier this year, Medical News Today reported on a study detailing a promising new treatment for baldness. It involves growing human hairs from a person's own dermal papilla cells – found inside the hair follicles.

Regenerative Medicine Breakthrough: Stem-Cell Enriched Fat Grafts Outperform Traditional Fat Grafts Stem-cell enriched fat grafting may enhance the results of cosmetic and reconstructive procedures, new research suggests. The study, which appears in the Sept. 28 issue of The Lancet, is the first randomised human trial of stem-cell enriched fat grafts. Researchers from Copenhagen University Hospital in Denmark recruited 10 healthy volunteers who had liposuction. The fat was then purified and injected into their upper arms. In one arm, the fat was enriched with stem cells and the other arm received a traditional fat transplant. After about four months, the researchers took MRI images of the fat transplants and removed the grafts. The grafts that were enriched with fat-derived stem cells retained 80.9% of their volume, compared to the standard grafts, which retained just 16.3% of their volume. Four months later, stem-cell grafts also demonstrated higher amounts of adipose tissue and newly formed connective tissues. Moreover, there was less necrosis in the stemcell enriched fat grafts compared to the standard grafts. Sam Rizk, MD, a New York City facial plastic surgeon, reviewed the study for Plastic Surgery Practice. "The Lancet study on lipofilling is important to substantiate the work that many plastic surgeons are doing with fat grafting in humans," he says. "I have been using fat combined with platelet-rich plasma as an adjunct with most of the facelifts I performed for the past several years." ㄰

He adds: "In my experience with hundreds of cases, the results have been significant. There appears to be a rejuvenative effect on the skin that we can attribute to the activity of growth factors. Going forward, I am optimistic that as more research is done in this evolving area, we will be able to predict more accurately what fat grafting and stem cells can and cannot do.”

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In an editorial accompanying the new study, J Peter Rubin,MD, and Kacey G Marra, PhD, of the University of Pittsburgh, wrote that "these therapies could revolutionise breast reconstruction after cancer and reconstruction of deformities after trauma, for example. "

methotrexate and cyclosporine, topical therapies and light-based treatments, but in the 21st century we have biologics that can targeted certain aspects of psoriasis." These include drugs that block T cells or inflammatory proteins such as tumor necrosis factor-alpha or interleukins 12 and 23.

http://www.plasticsurgerypractice.com

Novartis is developing a novel psoriasis drug, secukinumab (AIN457), that blocks inhibiting interleukin-17A. The company plans to file for regulatory approval by the end of the year.

can actually make facial expressions afterwards. Finally, since nitrogen naturally occurs in humans, your body doesn't have to treat it like a foreign substance invader, lessening side-effects. Three cheers for science! What will they think of next?

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Ref: http://www.biolitedubai.com/frotox-what-is-it/

Fractional laser with new wavelengths for tattoo removal According to Dermatology Today, which interviewed two prominent medical experts, Drs. Geronemus and Spencer highlighted the availability of the picosecond laser (PicoSure, Cynosure) for tattoo removal as an important development. Dr. Geronemus conducted the clinical research leading to FDA clearance of the device in 2012.

Dermatologists Urged to Take Psoriasis More Seriously Dermatologists need to start taking a more holistic view of psoriasis patients to help stave off some of the downstream consequences associated with this disease, says Andrew Blauvelt, MD, MBA, the President of Oregon Medical Research Center in Portland, Oregon. A growing body of evidence suggests that psoriasis is more than skin deep, and that systemic inflammation can increase a patient's risk of heart attack, diabetes and other comorbid conditions. Psoriasis also increases risk for depression, anxiety and suicide. "Patients with typical skin psoriasis have much more inflammation inside their body. Psoriasis is a serious and debilitating disease," he says during a webinar sponsored by Novartis Pharmaceuticals Corporation.

There's a New Alternative to Botox, and It's Called Frotox Cosmetic surgeons have chills about a new procedure that might just freeze out Botox. The newest cutting edge technology to come down the pike is being billed as a gentler, more natural, version of Botox. The cutely nicknamed “Frotox” (which immediately made us think of taking a frozen yogurt break, yum) apparently doesn't contain the same purified botulinum toxin as the traditional face freezer.

Onus on Dermatologists

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"Dermatologists need to start seeing [psoriasis patients] as internal medicine patients and thinking more about comorbidities," he says. "They should be screened for weight, diabetes and high blood pressure, and if they are smoking, they need to stop smoking, because smoking will not only make psoriasis worse, but it will also increase risk of heart attack." Dermatologists should also ask about joint pain, he says. As the science behind our understanding of psoriasis has evolved so too have treatment options. Up to one-third of patients have moderate-to-severe psoriasis requiring therapies beyond topical treatments, he says. "In the 20th century, we had things like

Frotox – which is actually called Iovera – is a procedure in which liquid nitrogen is injected into the nerves that control wrinkle-causing muscles. The procedure, which was developed by scientists in (where else?) California, but is currently only available in the UK, consists of two cold “shocks” to the face. These shocks compel facial nerves to go into "hibernation" for up to four months, causing the muscles to relax and wrinkles to disappear faster than a snowman on a sunny day. Unlike Botox, the effects of Frotox can be seen instantly. It also offers a huge bonus for actors and actresses everywhere, since Frotox can target very specific facial muscles, you

“This first picosecond laser expedites tattoo treatment and particularly for tattoos with blue and green colours that have been extremely difficult to remove. Using the picosecond laser, tattoo removal in many patients can now be completed in just one to three sessions,” Dr. Geronemus says. According to Dr. Geronemus, other important developments in laser surgery include use of the 1,927 nm thulium laser (Fraxel Dual, Solta Medical) to clear actinic keratoses with minimal downtime or recovery, and of ablative fractional resurfacing to improve burn, traumatic and surgical scars. “Ablative fractional resurfacing for scar treatment in military veterans has been an especially gratifying application of this technology,” Dr. Geronemus says. Dr. Wheeland also identifies the expansion in applications of fractional laser technology as an important development in dermatology. “Fractional treatments using newer wavelengths, including 1,927; 1,550; and 1,440 nm, to induce tissue remodelling can improve the appearance of scarred or ageing skin and with less pain, faster healing, and better results compared with older technologies,” Dr. Wheeland says.

Ref: http://dermatologytimes.modernmedicine.com /dermatology-times/news/2013-year-review#sthash. 85vMWTut.dpuf

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CARROTS and their role in skin and body health By Tina Viney

Carrots are so common that it's easy to overlook their potentially powerful benefits to your health and the health of the skin. When dealing with skin deficiencies and disorders it is beneficial to also address the need for internal nutritional support in conjunction with your topical treatments. If you do not have qualifications in nutrition you can still safely refer to quality natural food, and knowledge of their nutritional benefits can be invaluable, as their bioavailability is often more readily accessible to the digestive system. In this article we will look at the benefits of the humble carrot and their benefits to the skin.

NUTRITIONAL VALUE OF CARROTS The high vitamin A content, for which carrots are best known, comes from beta carotene, which is converted into vitamin A in your liver. Interestingly, there's a reason why 'carrot' and 'carotene' sound so alike. The word carotene was devised in the early 19th century by a German scientist after he crystallised the compound from carrot roots. Carrots also contain potassium, vitamin B6, copper, folic acid, thiamine and magnesium. When eaten as part of an overall healthy diet, the nutrients in carrots may provide you with protection against heart disease and stroke, while helping you to build strong bones and a healthy nervous system, not to mention clearer skin.

CARROTS FOR GLOWING SKIN When dealing with skin health Vitamin A is the golden standard as is the benefits of Vitamin C, not to mention Vitamin B and the important role of minerals. Just take a look at the nutritional breakdown of carrots in the chart on the next page and you will soon understand why it is so important to skin health.

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I am sure in reading this chart you will see the impressive amounts of Vitamin A – a whopping 16706IU per 100 gms, while Caroteneα has 3427 µg and Carotene-ß has 256 µg. However, what is so amazing about carrots is the overall balance of vitamins, minerals and phyto-nutrients, which make it a powerful formula for skin improvement.

TREATMENT OF BLEMISHES ㈵

Drinking carrot juice can be one of the best ways to assist the skin, however, there is evidence that gently cooked carrots are also very beneficial in releasing their vitamin A. If you have a client with skin blemishes drinking carrot juice can substantially assist in

helping to clear their blemishes within 24 hours. I can vouch for that also through personal experience.

ANTI-AGEING BENEFITS Carrots are high in Vitamin A. This is one of the most important vitamins for the skin. It is in the family of ingredients called retinoids. Retinoids bind to special sites in the skin and help cells differentiate more normally. This is why so many products, both over-the-counter and prescription products, include vitamin A or a derivative of vitamin A as an essential ingredient. Vitamin A deficiency in the skin causes dry skin that heals poorly and wrinkles more easily. Carrots offer internal support in ensuring the skin receives adequate quantities of the fat-soluble vitamin through the blood. Carrots also contain Vitamin C, which aids collagen production in the body. As we know collagen is vital for the maintenance of skin elasticity. It helps prevent wrinkles and locks the process of ageing. Both these vitamins are essential in defending the body against wrinkles and pigmentation.

SUN PROTECTION Beta carotene in carrots is a skin-friendly nutrient that is converted to Vitamin A inside the body. It helps in repairing skin tissues and provides protection against the sun's harsh rays. The antioxidants and carotenoids protect and condition the skin to increase its immunity against the sun and heal sunburns. In fact, consumption of carrot juice in summer acts as a natural sunblock.

DRY SKIN Deficiency of potassium can lead to dry skin. Carrots are rich in potassium; hence, drinking carrot juice can prevent this problem as well as keep your skin hydrated.

TREATMENT OF SKIN AILMENTS Carrots are effective in the prevention and cure of various skin ailments. The antioxidants in this vegetable can treat skin conditions like

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blemishes and acne, rashes, dermatitis and other skin problems caused due to Vitamin A deficiency. However, carrots should not be consumed in excess as they can cause your skin to temporarily turn yellowish orange in colour.

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HAIR BENEFITS Since ages ago, carrots have been known to promote hair growth and add thickness to the hair. Being loaded with Vitamin A and other nutrients, carrots support hair health, making it shinier and stimulating hair growth.

FROM HEART DISEASE TO CANCER: WHAT DOES THE RESEARCH SAY ABOUT CARROTS? There's good reason to include carrots in your regular diet, as the science is very strong that they may help reduce your risk of chronic disease.

HEART DISEASE Eating more deep-orange-colored fruits and vegetables is associated with a lower risk of coronary heart disease (CHD). In particular, carrots are associated with a 32 per cent lower risk of CHD, leading researchers to conclude:2 “… a higher intake of deep orange fruit and vegetables and especially carrots may protect against CHD." The consumption of carrots has also been associated with a lower risk of heart attacks in women.

CANCER Antioxidants in carrots, including beta carotene, may play a role in cancer prevention. Research has shown that smokers who eat carrots more than once a week have a lower risk of lung cancer, while a beta-carotene-rich diet may also protect against prostate cancer. The consumption of beta carotene is also associated with a lower risk of colon cancer, while carrot juice extract may kill leukemia cells and inhibit their progression. Carrots also contain falcarinol, a natural toxin that protects carrots against fungal disease. It's thought that this compound may stimulate cancer-fighting mechanisms in the body, as it's been shown to cut the risk of tumor development in rats.

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A deficiency in vitamin A can cause your eyes photoreceptors to deteriorate, which leads to vision problems. Eating foods rich in beta-carotene may restore vision, lending truth to the adage that carrots are good for your eyes.

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Carrot extract has been found to be useful for the management of cognitive dysfunctions and may offer memory improvement and cholesterol-lowering benefits.

LIVER PROTECTION Carrot extract may help to protect your liver from the toxic effects of environmental chemicals.

ANTI-INFLAMMATORY PROPERTIES Carrot extract also has anti-inflammatory properties and provided antiinflammatory benefits that were significant even when compared to antiinflammatory drugs like Aspirin, Ibuprofen, Naproxen and Celebrex.

COOKING MAY INCREASE THE HEALTH BENEFITS OF CARROTS

Carrots eaten raw are an excellent food, but there is some research showing that cooking them may actually help to boost their nutritional content. Interestingly, one study found that cooked carrots had higher levels of beta carotene and phenolic acids than raw carrots, and the antioxidant activity continued to increase over a period of four weeks. Adding carrot peels to a carrot puree also boosted antioxidant levels. Ref: http://www.newhealthguide.org/Carrot-Juice-Benefits.html

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The power of your INFORMED CONSENT FORM in protecting your practice By Tina Viney In the age of litigation the introduction of an Informed Consent Form is becoming a necessary tool, not only in the medical field, but also for the contemporary aesthetic clinic and spa. Activities that pose any level of risk, discomfort or changes to appearance should be first discussed with the client, making them fully aware of the expectations and allowing them to become fully informed as to what they are undertaking and what they can expect.

2. RISKS

In our industry, Cosmetic Tattooing, Laser, Pulsed Light Therapies, Electrolysis or Skin Needling are only some of the activities that would require that a client be presented with an Informed Consent Form prior to undertaking a treatment. So what should be in these forms and who should put them together?

3. WHO IS DOING THE PROCEDURE?

As a rule any equipment that poses a risk or discomfort should include an INFORMED CONSENT FORM as part of your training when purchasing such devices from your supplier. This form should ensure that the full perimeters of the treatment the device will deliver are fully covered. However, as a professional, you may wish to draft your own consent form. At a recent cosmetic medical conference I attended a litigation lawyer presented a seminar on the law and the medico-legal view. In this lecture she addressed the importance of having an appropriate Informed Consent Form and proceeded to indicate what should be in this form and how it should be used. As much as this lecture was addressing doctors, most of the information presented was also relevant to our procedures. I am therefore offering you a summary of the key points. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

WHEN PREPARING AN INFORMED CONSENT FORM YOU SHOULD INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING: 1. WHAT CAN THE CLIENT EXPECT FROM THE TREATMENT? In this section you need to include in an honest and truthful manner what is involved in the treatment procedure so that the client is made fully aware of what to expect. The client also needs to be informed of any discomfort during the treatment. The realistic outcomes of what can be expected from this treatment should also be outlined.

If there are any risks involved in undertaking the procedure these should also be honestly presented so that the client can make the appropriate choice based on a full understanding that something may go wrong and what this may be. Whether the client chooses to go ahead with the treatment should then be their responsibility and their choice.

It is also important to leave a space and state that the treatment will be performed by a qualified professional and to name who this will be. This is important in the case of an insurance claim, as one of the issues that will arise is whether the practitioner was qualified to perform that procedure.

4. COSTS The costs that will be involved in delivering the treatment to the client's expectations, whether it will be one or several treatment should be clearly outlined so that the client is made fully aware of the financial commitment they are undertaking. If you are offering any term-payment facilities you can mention it in this section of the document.

THE PRACTICE OF GOOD RISK MANAGEMENT All procedures should also be supported with thorough recordkeeping, as this information becomes invaluable in the event of a future concern or in a case of litigation. Having drafted a good Informed Consent Form, just giving it to your client does not constitute good risk-management practices. The communication needs to be both in writing and verbal. Careful verbal communication should ensure that all sections of the consent form are clearly outlined and the client fully understands every facet of the procedure and has the opportunity to ask questions and receive answers to their level of comprehension. When asked a question by the client it was stressed that the professional should communicate honestly and accurately rather than persuasively. Avoid client vulnerability through false expectations,

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YOU ARE NOT ALONE HELP IS AT HAND

and ensure that your communication offers the client as many facts as possible to make an informed decision.

CAUSES OF LITIGATION

The lecturer also stated that in NSW there have been reported two liposuction deaths and several complaints against cosmetic surgery results. In the lecturer's opinion some of these could have been avoided if the patients were made fully aware in the appropriate manner what were the expectations of the treatments they were undertaking.

Contact Mark at Kharis Enterprises on 0412 177 423 or avg@kharis.com and let him give you peace of mind.

Reputation is built slowly through consistent good practices and happy clients. It can also be destroyed instantly through neglect of important details such as ensuring that you not only develop, but also communicate verbally the information within your consent form.

APAN has consent forms for Cosmetic Tattooing and Laser and IPL procedures that you can purchase. However, we encourage industry professionals to carefully draft their own for all their procedures. You can use this article as a springboard to assist you in this process.

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The good news is that you don’t have to become an IT expert to survive in this “brave new world”. There is help available through Kharis Enterprises, a AVG accredited reseller. Whatever your level of need Kharis can offer you a tailored solution – from a complete externally monitored and controlled system to a stand-alone business-level Internet Software.

The number one reason for litigation was cited as being poor communication. An Informed Consent Form initiates good communication with you and your client, so that every aspect of the treatment is made very clear to the client prior to them undertaking it. This exercise not only safeguards you and your practice by minimising risk, it can also lead to better rates for your insurance as well as protect the reputation of the practice through consistent positive results and happier clients.

If we can be of further assistance please do not hesitate to contact us. Consultation services are FREE for financial members. If you are not a member and do not wish to join, a consultation fee will apply. Ph: 07 5593 0360 or Email: info@apanetwork.com

You will be surprised at how simple it is to implement and how cost-effective the solution can be. With the Internet your location is not a problem to work with your system – we simply log on remotely and set everything up.

BODILITE Quality Systems & Solutions (Medical Classified Devices with more efficient treatment parameters)

SUPER SHR / SSR IPL - New IPL Technology The new system combines laser technology and the benefits of IPL for painless results. Difficult hair can be treated through In Motion IPL program for speed, comfort and better protection of the skin. It provides a gradual thermal rise to the target therapeutic temperature without risk of injury eliminating the common problem of missed or skipped areas with comprehensive coverage to legs, arms and backs. Normal IPLs with Multipulse modes focus energy on one pulse, so it is easy to burn the client, but SHR emits a single pulse mode for safer treatments. The SHR filtered violet light and infrared light absorbs water, targeting the skin with no side effects. SHR accelerates operation speed and shortens the time for treatments with 1-10Hz moving the head along the skin with a faster repetition rate of shots fired per millisecond requiring less time for treatment.

Our devices are tailor-made to our specifications.

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Grand Haven International

Increase your qualification and gain recognition We Offer Great Service – Great Results

Ph: 07 5477 6738

As AVG Security Advisor, Michael McKinnon, says: “If you are the owner of a small or growing business, chances are you think you're too small for cybercriminals to be interested in you. But think again, with many cybercriminals using automated scanning tools, unless you protect yourself they'll eventually find you.”

I found it interesting that the causes of litigation in cosmetic surgery were attributed to the following: 1. Poor advice on what the treatment would involve 2. Clients not happy with the level of outcome they receive leading to “buyer’s remorse” 3. Poor record keeping 4. Poor post operative care that leads to slow or poor healing

THE OBJECTIVES AND VALUE OF CONSENT FORMS

www.grandhaven.com.au | www.bodilite.com.au The Boulevard Centre, 12B / 68 Jessica Bvd, Minyama QLD


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practices caused milk to be more unstable and added to the risk of contamination.

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Modern food-processing methods were developed to ensure the safety and standardisation of all dairy foods. Stainless-steel milk trucks, refrigeration, homogenisation, fat-reduction and heat-treatment pasteurisation ensure that milk is now safe, convenient and easily available – but it is not quite the same food that our parents or grandparents used to consume. As with many industrialised foods, milk now comes to us over greater distances and with less nutritional value.

DAIRY IS BIG BUSINESS

Looking at the Verdict on MILK By Tina Viney I love milk and anything with milk in it. As a food source it is highly nutritious, and with its high vitamin content it is also fantastic for the skin. However, there are a lot of theories both good and bad about milk. In this article I explore some interesting information about milk and some reasons why it has been given a bad wrap by some. At the end you can make up your own mind, but at the very least you should find some interesting information on the subject. Since the beginnings of agriculture 10,000 years ago, milk-producing animals such as cows, sheep and goats have been an invaluable resource. Milk was known as a nutrient-dense, complete and natural wholefood that contained an important balance of nutrients. In fact, it contains a good balance of protein, fats and carbohydrates and is a very important source of nutrients such as: ! Calcium ! Riboflavin ! Phosphorous ! Vitamins A, D and B12 ! Pantothenic Acid

It could be drunk fresh, but usually it was fermented to make clabbered (curdled or soured) milk, yoghurt, kefir or cheese. Without refrigeration milk would naturally sour, so it required fermentation to last for longer periods of time. These natural fermentation processes also increased the milk's levels of healthy bacteria and several vitamins and minerals, creating an even more nutrient-dense food product.

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At the turn of the 20th century, as many people began migrating to the cities and Western populations expanded, the demand for milk continued to grow. To produce plentiful milk on small areas of land, farmers began feeding their cattle various food scraps, brewery waste and grain supplements to increase milk production. This unhealthy and unnatural diet for the cows caused the milk to foul and many people became ill from food-borne diseases. In addition, the longer transport times and a lack of understanding of basic sanitation

The Australian dairy industry is one of Australia's major rural industries with an annual production value of $3.4 billion. Each year 45 per cent of the total milk produced in Australia is exported, with the export industry currently valued at $2.9 billion annually. Of the milk that is used within Australia, 33 per cent goes to cheesemaking, 25 per cent to skim-milk powder and butter and 24 per cent is consumed as milk. There are currently 7924 dairy farms in Australia with an average herd size of 220 cows.

In 2000, deregulation of the dairy industry forced the Australian markets to become more internationally competitive. Prior to this, milk pricing and supply in Australia was regulated by a combination of State and Federal policies. The industry now works in an entirely deregulated environment where international prices determine the price received by farmers for their milk. Australian dairy farmers currently receive a low price (39c/litre) by world standards and therefore have to run very efficient production systems.

DIET OF CONVENTIONAL COWS Most conventional dairy farms practise a combination of pasturebased feeding as well as supplementary feeding in the form of silage, hay, grains and miscellaneous food waste (brewery leftovers and vegetable scraps). No conventional farms operate without some form of supplementary feeding, and a small proportion of dairy cattle (4 per cent) exist in confinement feedlots without access to natural pastures. For dairy cows, a diet lacking in natural pastures has been shown to cause various health problems such as bloat or liver abscesses. These need to be treated quickly with medication to avoid severe illness or death. There is also a higher risk of E.coli contamination in the food products from cows that have had a high proportion of grains and food supplements in their diet.

ARTIFICIAL HORMONES Artificial hormones are not given to dairy cows in Australia. The rBST or rBGH – an artificial hormone that stimulates milk production in cows – has been banned from use in Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Japan and all European Union countries. The publicity surrounding the use of rBGH in some parts of the USA has caused many people internationally to choose organic or biodynamic certified milk products to ensure that they are hormone free.

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ANTIBIOTICS AND THE ORGANIC ALTERNATIVE

The dairy industry routinely uses antibiotics for the treatment of infections and inflammation in cattle. Dairy Food Safety Victoria claims that it frequently conducts tests to ensure that antibiotic residues to do not appear in dairy products. However, the amount of antibiotics used on each conventional farm is at the discretion of the farmer and local vet. Antibiotics are administered via intramammary

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pathways for the treatment of mastitis, and also topically, intrauterinally and orally (directly or as a feed supplement). In comparison, organic and biodynamic farming methods rely on homeopathic remedies and natural immune-boosting feed supplements to prevent infections from occurring and to treat them naturally when required, with minimal side-effects. If a cow on an organic dairy needs to be treated with antibiotics, then its milk is discarded for a specific period during and after treatment.

CONVENTIONAL MILKS ARE WATERED DOWN Some conventional milk products in Australia are watered down using a milk-solid product called permeate. This is a waste product of dairy production created by removing all the fat and protein through a fine sieve and then concentrating all the remaining materials. In some brands of milk it can make up to 12 per cent of the final product. It is legal to use permeate in all conventional milk brands, but it is not a requirement of Australian food-labelling laws to feature permeate in ingredients lists on milk labels.

PERMEATE Dairy Australia claims that permeate is used to standardise levels of fat and protein in milk products to compensate for seasonal variation (levels of fat will naturally change depending on the season). It also allows them to produce and heavily market a variety of different types of milk (for example, low fat, high calcium, non fat). But most farmers do not welcome the use of permeate in milk products and consider such products a poor substitute for the real thing. Milk-processing plants save money by using permeate and reducing the fat content of their milk – the excess cream from milk processing can be used for other products such as butter, skim milk powder, yoghurt and ice cream.

HOMOGENISED MILK Homogenisation is the process whereby the fat particles are broken up and dispersed uniformly so the cream will not rise to the top of the milk. Homogenisation is done for aesthetic reasons in milk production. Anecdotally it has been found that homogenised milk can be difficult to digest. Increasingly, studies are also citing links between homogenised milk and heart disease, type 1 diabetes and some cancers. Most milk, unless labelled otherwise, is homogenised. In Australia there are now certain suppliers such as Aussie Farmers Direct who supply organic non-homogenised milk.

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ORGANIC/BIODYNAMIC MILK The emphasis on healthy pastures and nutrient-dense soils and grasses is one of the key factors pertaining to the added nutrients found in organic dairy products. Organic milk has been found to contain up to 71 per cent more health-promoting omega-3 fatty acids than conventional milk does. It is also a richer source of conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), which has been shown to aid weight loss and protect against cardiovascular disease. Organic milk from pasture-raised cows has also been found to be a richer source of antioxidants such as lutein, zeaxantin and beta-carotene (demonstrated by a slightly yellow-coloured milk and bright orange butter) as well as the fatsoluble vitamins A, D, E and K. Certified organic milk products do not contain additives or permeate. Hence there is a natural seasonal variation that occurs in the fat composition of the milk. In winter the fat composition can reach up to 4.6 per cent. Organic milk also contains no traces of pesticides, antibiotics or hormones. Many organic farmers also practise salad-bar grazing methods, where cattle are offered a range of fresh grasses and legumes. This provides a variety of nutrients in the cows' diet, which supports and strengthens their immune systems.

A2 MILK A2 milk is a type of milk identified by its specific beta-casein protein. Dairy milk contains one of two types of beta-casein proteins, either A1 or A2. All sheep, goats and buffalo naturally have A2 beta-casein proteins, but dairy cows can have either A1 or A2. There is a perception among the public that A2 milk is less allergenic than A1 milk is. Anecdotally, many people claim that the milk tastes better and is easier to digest. But scientific studies have shown that beta-casein is one of at least seven proteins in cows’ milk with allergenic significance (alpha-, beta- and gamma-casein, alpha- and beta-lactoglobulin, lactoferrin and transferrin). Hence it is unlikely that a single amino-acid difference in one protein will have a significant effect on overall milk allergenicity.

REDUCED FAT EQUALS REDUCED BENEFICIAL NUTRIENTS

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Regular milk has between 2 to 4 per cent fat and reduced fat milk contains 1 to 2 per cent fat. Drinking reduced fat milk is a relatively new phenomenon, which only began during the latter half of the 20th century. Prior to this, all milk contained a minimum of 4 per cent fat. This was due to skim milk not being available and the preference towards the traditional breeds of cows such as the Jersey, Guernsey and Devonshire. These cows produce less milk, but with a higher butterfat content.

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Many important nutrients are lost when milk is reduced in fat. Butterfat contains vitamins A and D, needed for assimilation of calcium and protein in the water fraction of the milk. Butterfat is also rich in short- and medium-chain fatty acids, which stimulate the immune system and protect against disease. These nutritional benefits are not present when the butterfat is removed.

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The major reason some people can't digest dairy products is they lack the enzyme lactase, which is necessary to break down lactose in the small intestine. It has been determined that continued genetic expression of this enzyme, known as lactase persistence, is dependent on ancestry and racial background. The ability to consume dairy probably gave early herdsmen a distinct survival advantage, allowing for the spread of the gene in certain regions of the world such as northern Europe and parts of Africa; today, only about 40% of the world's adult population maintain full lactase function following childhood. Lactase deficiency makes digesting dairy products more challenging for these individuals.

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RAW MILK Raw milk is essentially fresh milk – taken straight from the cow and not pasteurised nor homogenised. Increasingly many people are drinking fresh milk instead of pasteurised milk for its added health benefits. The pasteurisation process destroys important enzymes and beneficial bacteria, which aid in the digestion of milk and the assimilation of nutrients. In particular, it contains a natural form of the lactase enzyme, which aids the digestion of lactose present in all types of milk. It also diminishes the content of key vitamins, including vitamins C, B12 and B6. Current food regulations prohibit the sale of fresh milk in Australia. Several side avenues have developed for eager consumers – there are herb shares (where you buy a share in a cow or a farm), milk co-ops and the selling of 'bath milk', which is raw milk labelled as unfit for human consumption. Internationally, raw milk is readily available in mainstream retail markets. For instance, in parts of the USA you can purchase raw milk from wholefoods supermarkets, food co-ops, and via farm gate sales. In New Zealand and many parts of Europe it is sold from farm gates or local co-ops. Italy, France, Switzerland and Slovenia also have milko-vats (milk machines) in public places where people can refill their milk bottles with fresh, clean milk from local farms. Yet, in all places where raw milk is safely consumed, it comes from small-scale farms where the animals are fed a natural diet of pasture and hay. In most cases these are organic or biodynamic farms. History has shown that raw milk can potentially be dangerous if it is sourced from large-scale industrial farms where the animals are fed an unnatural diet of grains, brewery waste or good supplements. Just like any animal food products, the health and lifestyle of the animal will dictate the nutritional quality and safety of the final product. So if you are travelling overseas and are lucky enough to be able to consume fresh milk, make sure that you investigate its source. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

CAN LACTOSE INTOLERANCE BE CURED? Lactose intolerance is one of the most common food intolerances, affecting up to 65% of the world's adult population. Many people choose to completely cut out dairy as a way to avoid the gastrointestinal symptoms that frequently come along with eating dairy foods. But is true lactose intolerance really the cause of their digestive distress, or are many people prematurely eliminating dairy because of a perceived inability to digest milk products? And is it possible to cure lactose intolerance, even as an adult?

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However, true lactose intolerance is rarely diagnosed by medical testing, and adults frequently mistake their gastrointestinal symptoms as a sign that they are unable to digest dairy products at all. Studies have shown that even diagnosed “lactose malabsorbers” are capable of consuming moderate amounts of dairy, tolerating an average 12 grams of lactose when administered in a single dose (the lactose content found in one cup of milk) with little to no symptoms. Additionally, many adults who believe they have lactose intolerance are actually suffering from other gastrointestinal disorders such as SIBO, celiac disease or IBS, and do not see significant benefit from eliminating dairy. Ultimately, there are many people who avoid dairy products without any reason for doing so.

WHY DAIRY IS WORTH EATING You may be wondering why eating dairy even matters; after all, there are many examples of ancestral cultures that had no dairy in their diets and maintained superb health. However, it is believed that certain ethnicities may have had physical adaptations to their low calcium diet, and also traditionally consumed animal foods that are higher in calcium but probably not so appetising to us Westerners, such as fish heads, bones and skin. Therefore, they were able to meet their individual calcium needs without milk and dairy. Calcium is a mineral that is difficult to get adequate amounts of in a modern Western diet without the inclusion of dairy. While the adequate levels of fat-soluble vitamins A, D, and K2 reduce the amount of calcium an adult needs to maintain bone health, it can still be challenging to get enough calcium simply from leafy greens and bone-in fish. Several studies have shown that individuals with lactose intolerance have lower bone density and are at higher risk for fractures and osteoporosis, likely due to their inadequate calcium intake. This risk is possibly exacerbated by low K2 consumption, as grass-fed dairy is one of the best sources of vitamin K2. Pastured dairy products, in particular, are also a good source of the fatsoluble vitamins A, D and K2 – which can also be difficult to obtain elsewhere in the diet. In fact, the only other significant sources of K2 are goose liver and natto, foods that aren't typically eaten or easy to find. Furthermore, dairy is the primary source of the natural trans-fat conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), which may have anti-cancer and other beneficial properties.

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So what can you do if you believe you truly have lactose intolerance but want to begin eating dairy again? It may surprise you to learn that the quality and quantity of your gut bacteria can play an important role in your ability to tolerate dairy products. By taking certain kinds of probiotics and consuming fermented dairy on a regular basis you can improve, if not eliminate, many of the symptoms of lactose intolerance that come with eating dairy.

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USING PROBIOTICS TO CURE LACTOSE INTOLERANCE

Studies have shown that supplementation with probiotics, in addition to consuming yoghurt that has been enhanced with certain types of bacteria, can alleviate symptoms of lactose intolerance by modifying the metabolic activity of microbiota in the colon. These bacteria may even produce their own lactase enzyme, and consuming lactose from dairy products can promote the growth of these bacteria in the colon. Over time, these effects can lead to greater lactase content in the gut, improved lactose digestion, and eventually the elimination of intolerance symptoms. If you plan to use yoghurt and probiotics to improve your digestion of dairy products, it's important to start slowly and build up tolerance gradually. Often, negative effects from dairy consumption come from simply eating more lactose in one sitting than one's gut can completely metabolise. I recommend starting with probiotic supplementation first, and focusing on Bifidobacterium longum, a strain that has been shown to efficiently metabolise lactose. Jarro-Dophilus, a shelf-stable probiotic that doesn't require refrigeration, is one option. Taking prebiotics is another way of significantly increasing bifidobacterium levels; in fact, some studies suggest prebiotics are more effective than probiotics at doing this. Remember to start at a very low dose and build up slowly over time with both pre- and probiotics to avoid any unpleasant side-effects.

time to introduce lactose-fermenting bacteria through probiotics and high-quality yoghurt, you may find your lactose-intolerance symptoms decreasing over time. Of course, if you'd rather eat fish heads to get your calcium, feel free to skip the dairy! R e f : w w w. b e t t e r h e a l t h . v i c . g o v. a u / b h c v 2 / b h c a r t i c l e s . n s f / p a g e s / Milk_the_facts_and_fallaciesSource

In addition to this supplement, experts suggest consuming a few spoonfuls of a high-quality full-fat yoghurt every day, with each meal if possible. This will introduce beneficial bacteria into your gut that are effective lactose metabolisers, and by slowly increasing the amount of yoghurt you eat every day, you may be able to work up to eating two or more servings of fermented dairy every day. If you tolerate the yoghurt well, and want to try diversifying your dairy intake, my next recommendation is to start including full-fat hard cheeses (raw if possible); these cheeses are great sources of calcium and vitamin K2 and are very low in lactose. One ounce of hard cheese contains about a third of the recommended intake of calcium, and gouda is the best source of vitamin K2 of all cheeses. These hard cheeses are extremely low in lactose, and make a nutrient-dense addition to a wholefoods diet. As you become more tolerant of dairy products, you can try higher lactose items such as soft cheeses, cream, and even fluid milk. Just remember to stick to the full-fat and grass-fed versions as often as possible.

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Of course, another option to try is raw-milk. Anecdotal evidence from raw milk drinkers around the country suggests that many people who cannot tolerate pasteurised milk have no trouble drinking raw milk. Research conducted on this theory, however, indicates that truly lactose-intolerant individuals do not experience any benefit from drinking raw milk over pasteurised milk. Some feel this result suggests that while many people believe themselves to be lactose intolerant, there is only a small percentage of people who are truly lactose intolerant from a clinical perspective.

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The best way to figure out which dairy products work for you and your digestive system is simply to try them yourself. By taking the


internetsecurity ㄰

4. A perfect match… for a cybercriminal In recent years, online dating websites have become a popular tool for Australians looking to find companionship. However, cybercriminals are actively using these kinds of sites as an opportunity to exploit the trust of would-be matches. As a result, people are having their bank accounts cleared and their hearts broken. A Queensland Police report states that Australians are still sending approximately $10 million a month to Nigerian scammers.

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5. Giving too much away When filling in online forms, quizzes and surveys, seniors should be especially careful about the kinds of personal information they give up about themselves. What can seem like an insignificant detail can be craftily used by a scammer to access additional information, which at worst, can lead to identity theft. Warning bells should sound if ever there is an unexpected request to provide sensitive details such as a date of birth, driver's licence number or mother's maiden name. This example shows you just how these can individually be used by a cybercriminal to access even more personal information.

Is Your Computer Safe from Attacks? By Mark D. Viney Running a small business can be time consuming, costly and frenetic, and quite often you may even find yourself learning on the fly along with any employees that you have. With all of this overwhelming activity, it's easy for online security to become an afterthought, particularly if you're maintaining it yourself and haven't arranged for an IT expert to assist you. Unfortunately, this is when your computer becomes attractive to hackers.

FIVE TOP ONLINE SCAMS Here are the top five online scams according to AVG 1. The dreaded “Microsoft” phone scam This social engineering scam has been around for years, but unfortunately continues to catch many off-guard. It's when a fraudster calls their victim falsely claiming to be from “Microsoft”, advising a virus has infected their computer. This shocking news is often enough for an inexperienced user to fall straight into the trap and grant the cybercriminal remote access to their PC, so they can “fix” the issue at an outrageous cost, of course! Read more about the anatomy of these unsolicited calls, and how to avoid falling victim to them, by viewing our recent recent blog on the subject.

2. But this isn't AVG…!

Everyone knows (well, we'd like to think so!) that antivirus software is essential for every computer these days, and older computer users are no exception. In fact, they tend to be so concerned about online protection that cybercriminals look to exploit their insecurities in the form of fake antivirus software. Fake antivirus (or fake AV as it's otherwise known) is likely to be installed without a user's permission after they visit a malicious website. It works by displaying multiple pop-up warnings advising that the system is infected even when it is completely clean, apart from the fake AV itself! Naturally, the messages advise that money has to be paid for the infection to be removed.

3. Catching a phish 㤵 㜵

Businesses often monitor and track their finances and investments via the internet. Knowing this, online scammers put together spoofed emails so they appear to come from financial, insurance or Government departments. Such emails usually request the recipient “urgently” click a link to verify their personal information. These links then lead to a fake website that is designed to look exactly like the legitimate one. These kinds of emails are known as phishing scams, and should always be deleted straight away.

MAJOR NEW THREAT – CRYPTOLOCKER RANSOMWARE You may have seen some stories on the current affairs shows about this latest threat – CryptoLocker infections are rising. Security awareness training firm KnowBe4 says it's seeing a rise in the number of complaints about CryptoLocker as users are tricked into opening attachments and infecting their workstations. "We have been getting a lot of system administrators calling us to request security awareness training because their end users have been tricked into opening up attachments of phishing emails and infected their workstations with the CryptoLocker malware," says Stu Sjouwerman, CEO of KnowBe4. "It started last September and is not going away, but actually getting worse". Ransomware is generally spread by attachments to emails – fake tracking notices purporting to be from couriers like DNL, UPS and FedEx are a common form of attack. Less frequently infection can be via a malicious website that exploits outdated browser plug-ins. Once triggered the malicious code detects the personal files of the user and wraps them in strong encryption, demanding a $300 ransom to decrypt and a short window of time in which to pay up. This affects both locally stored user files and remote shared folders, encrypting every file with standard Office extensions as well as images and PDFs. Antivirus companies are working to combat CryptoLocker and some programs can prevent it from running, but frequent changes to the code make it hard to eradicate. Sjouwerman says, "The need for security awareness training shouldn't be overlooked. Despite the best efforts of IT and antivirus companies, sometimes the attachments are blocked by existing filters as 'possible malware', but users request them to be released and the (outsourced) help desk releases them. Users might not initially admit they opened an attachment saying it did nothing, until they are locked out of their files and the infection has spread". One site reported that they were unable to open any of their word or

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excel files. They said that they had tried copying the files from the network to their local drive and were still not able to open the files. The error message said that the file was corrupt and could not be opened. The file sizes seemed to be correct with the correct permissions, but they still couldn't be opened. When a virus scanner was run two computers on the networks were reporting a “Ransom” virus and one had a popup on the screen asking for $300 to restore the files. The ransom is real. It started at US$100 and is now US$300. It has been reported that when the virus first hit, paying the ransom actually worked and the files were decrypted. The online ransom was taking about 8 hours to process and then your data started to work again. Recently it has been reported that the online ransom process is taking a lot longer – weeks or not at all. The virus “Cryptolocker” had encrypted the personal files on the pc, then followed the network shares and encrypted the files on the network. Not only was it word and excel files, but all other files as well. Imagine how devastating that would be to you and your business – suddenly no file you have on the computer can be opened by you.

YOUR BACKUP MAY BE AFFECTED AS WELL Backup strategy is designed mostly to recover from equipment theft and building fire. If the data on the server is deleted, or if the equipment is stolen, you can quickly replace it from your offsite backup. However, this strategy doesn't work if the data is encrypted and the offsite data is overwritten with the encrypted files. With most off-site backup, the data on your computer(s) is synchronised with the offsite storage. The catch with this virus is that the encrypted files it makes on your computer(s) can overwrite the offsite storage before you discover the problem. Even if you have a local backup on a external hard drive, this too would be encrypted if the machine connected to the drive was infected. The thing to note about this virus is that if your data is on a mapped network drive it can be encrypted. The best way to steer clear of Cryptolocker ransomware is to have active and up-to-date antivirus software installed. This will minimise the risk of infection. However, users should also be extremely wary of opening attachments from unsolicited emails – even from well-know organisations, such as government bodies.

DOES AVG PROTECT AGAINST CRYPTOLOCKER RANSOMWARE? The Cryptolocker ransomware has many variants at the moment and AVG does protect against all known variants. However, with more of the variants being added all the time AVG recommends updating your operating system as well as other apps, including AVG, regularly to make sure you have the highest level of protection.

SO YOU THINK YOUR BUSINESS IS TOO SMALL TO WORRY ABOUT? Wrong! According to the Commonwealth Government's 2012 Cyber Crime and Security Report, 1 in 5 businesses are being targeted by cybercrime. This can result in the loss of critical business data, and if your data becomes compromised, it can be difficult for you to keep trading.

COMMONWEALTH GOVERNMENT'S 2012 CYBER CRIME AND SECURITY SURVEY REPORT. While most businesses are aware of the dangers that cyber crime poses to the integrity of their systems and data, over 20% of Australian businesses still reported a cyber incident in 2012, with some of these

businesses reporting as many as 10 or more separate incidents. In addition to being far more damaging than cyber attacks against individuals and members of the public (One business surveyed indicated that they had lost 15 years' worth of critical business data), attacks against businesses are usually targeted more than 50% of the time, according to the respondents.

Attacks against businesses also follow a number of different vectors, such as:

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Device theft through physical break-in Data theft through Trojan, virus or rootkit infection Breach of confidential information via system penetration (usually via Remote Desktop Protocol) Website defacement via ineffective or non-existent web-hosting security policy (ie. WordPress) Distributed denial of service (DDoS)

And, although most attacks against businesses came from external sources, we also need to be vigilant against threats from within as many of 44% originated from within the organisation itself.

BUT WE'RE ALREADY DOING OUR BEST – WHAT MORE CAN WE DO? Properly securing a small business can appear overwhelming. Like any other complex and multifaceted task, business security needs to be broken down into a number of simple steps and policies that need to be embraced by the whole business. Modern network hardware and software solutions have a multitude of built-in security features, but at the end of the day they're only as secure as the people who operate and utilise them. AVG, one of the world leading computer security companies, has produced a guide for a series of best practices and security policy pointers on passwords and authentication, WiFi networks, cloud computing, mobile device usage and point-of-sales and transactional security. It can be helpful to download and distribute AVG's Small Business Security Guide within your business to educate yourself and your staff on a wide range of IT security mistakes and how to avoid them. (https://www.avg.com.au/free-smb-security-guide/) As AVG Security Advisor Michael McKinnon, says: “If you are the owner of a small or growing business, chances are you think you're too small for cybercriminals to be interested in you. But think again – with many cybercriminals using automated scanning tools, unless you protect yourself they'll eventually find you.” The good news is that you don’t have to become an IT expert to survive in this “brave new world”. There is help available through Kharis Enterprises, a AVG accredited reseller. Whatever your level of need Kharis can offer you a tailored solution – from a complete externally monitored and controlled system to a stand-alone businesslevel Internet Software. You will be surprised at how simple it is to implement and how cost-effective the solution can be. With the Internet your location is not a problem to work with your system, as we can log on remotely to do what we need to do.

Contact Mark at Kharis Enterprises on 0412 177 423 or mark@kharis.com and let him give you peace of mind.

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naturalingredient ㄰ 㤵 㜵

While science is constantly identifying and studying the medicinal properties of individual chemical compounds of plants, there is also evidence that in some instances the plant as a whole can provide the perfect balance of nutrients as a complete formula, and one such plant is the avocado.

UCLA in California found that eating one-half of a fresh, medium Hass avocado with a hamburger (made with 90 per cent lean beef) significantly inhibited the production of the inflammatory compound Interleukin-6 (IL-6), compared to eating a burger without fresh avocado.

In this article we will look at some of the well-documented new findings of the benefit of the avocado, both as a food source and a skincare ingredient.

According to lead author David Heber, MD, PhD, the findings offer “promising clues” about avocado's ability to benefit vascular function and heart health. As reported by Medical News Today: “The researchers observed a significant peak (approximately a 70% increase) of IL-6 four hours after the plain burger was eaten, however, when fresh avocado was eaten with the burger the inflammatory compound Interleukin-6 was significantly lower – just 40%.

It is well known that avocado is an excellent source of healthful fats, but this whole food may also have other unique health benefits. There are numerous clinical research studies that have been conducted specifically on the benefits of Hass Avocado on overall health, and in particular, the benefits of avocado consumption for cardiovascular disease, weight management, diabetes, and its ability to enhance your body's absorption of nutrients. A recent study published in November, 2012 and conducted by

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“Additionally, the study found that when fresh Hass avocado was eaten with the burger it did not increase triglyceride levels beyond what was observed after eating the burger alone, despite the extra calories and fat from the fresh avocado. “The pilot study also reported that the difference in peripheral arterial blood flow (the movement of blood to different parts of the body, as measured by PAT), a predictor of vascular health, after eating the hamburger meal compared to the hamburger-fresh avocado meal was approaching statistical significance.

New Research Findings on the

BENEFITS OF AVOCADO By Tina Viney

“PAT scores significantly decreased (signifying reduced blood flow) only after the plain burger was eaten (approximately a 27 per cent drop, on average) compared to a burger with fresh avocado (approximately a 4 per cent drop, on average, signifying less reduction in blood flow).”

PREVENTS PROSTATE, BREAST AND ORAL CANCERS Various research studies have also shown that avocado helps in preventing the development of breast cancer thanks to its oleic acid content. Moreover, owing to the presence of certain compounds, avocado fruit was found to be very effective in seeking out pre-cancerous and cancerous oralcancer cells and obliterating them without doing any harm to the healthier ones. In addition, it is also known for inhibiting the growth of prostate cancer. Eye health is another health benefit that avocado offers due to its high content of carotenoid lutein as compared to any commonly consumed fruit. Lutein prevents any eye-related disorders by offering protection against macular degeneration and cataracts.

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Avocado helps in regulating blood cholesterol level because of its high beta-sitosterol content. It is shown to reduce cholesterol as well as

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phospholipids levels to almost 20% if consumed on a daily basis.

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Avocados are extremely helpful when it comes to maintaining a healthy heart. They are rich in folate – an ingredient essential for a healthy, problem-free heart. One cup is enough to satisfy your body's 23% of the daily folate requirement alone. Additionally, monounsaturated fats, glutathione and vitamin E in the avocado are also very beneficial for the human heart. Not only this, avocado's high folate content also makes it an ideal food for preventing strokes.

Additionally, avocados have been found to be very effective in boosting the absorption of certain nutrients, plus they also improve the human digestive system. Furthermore, avocados also help prevent constipation and facilitate weight loss when consumed in moderation. Avocados are a rich source of glutathione, an antioxidant important in preventing ageing, cancers and heart disorders.

AVOCADO CLASSIFIED AS A 'SUPER FOOD' Avocados are rich in monounsaturated fat that is easily burnt for energy and therefore considered a healthy fat. It is also very high in potassium and will help balance your vitally important potassium to sodium ratio (more than twice the potassium than bananas). Hass avocado contains about 22.5 grams of fat, two-thirds of which is monounsaturated. They're also very low in fructose, which is yet another boon. Avocados are among the healthiest natural ingredients and are also considered a complete diet for babies. They contain over 25 vital nutrients, including vitamins (A, B, C, E, and K) and minerals such as copper, potassium, iron, magnesium, calcium and phosphorus. Moreover, they also contain essential proteins, fibre and, as already mentioned, for their beneficial phytochemicals like glutathione, lutein Serving Size 150g and beta-sitosterol.

galactosamine, a potent liver toxin that interferes with cell synthesis and results in cell death. The rats fed avocado suffered the least amount of liver damage. The chemical-induced liver injuries resemble those caused by viruses, so the researchers suggested avocado could potentially offer support in the treatment of viral hepatitis. According to one lead author, Hirokazu Kawagishi, Ph.D: Due to its beneficial raw fat content, avocado enables your body to more efficiently absorb fat-soluble nutrients (such as alpha- and betacarotene and lutein) in other foods eaten in conjunction. One 2005 study found that adding avocado to salad allowed the volunteers to absorb three to five times more carotenoids antioxidant molecules, which help protect your body against free radical damage.

Other research has found that avocado was helpful in improving lipid profiles in both healthy individuals and those with non-optimised HDL/total cholesterol levels). In one study, healthy individuals saw a 16 per cent decrease of serum total cholesterol level following a one-week-long diet high in Amount Per Serving monounsaturated fat from avocados. In those Calories:240. Calories from fat 184 with elevated cholesterol levels, the avocado diet resulted in a 17 per cent decrease of serum % DailyValue* total cholesterol, and a 22 per cent decrease of Total fat 22g 34% both LDL cholesterol and triglycerides, along Saturated fat 3g 16% with an 11 per cent increase of the so-called “good” HDL cholesterol. Trans Fat Cholesterol 0mg 0% Sodium 11mg 0% AVOCADO AND THE SKIN Total Carbohydrates 13g 4% While consuming avocados will also benefit the Dietary Fibre 10g 40% skin, their use topically is also highly beneficial. There are many possible ways to use avocado on Sugars 1g the skin, either the complete fruit or the oil. Here Protein 3g are just some ways to use it and their benefits: Vitamin A 4% | Vitamin C 25% 1. Age-spot remedy: A mixture of 2-tbsp of Calcium 2% | Iron 5% avocado oil and 2-tbsp of castor oil has been found to help with age spots. Simply massage *Percent Daily Values are based on a 2,000 the mixture into the spot and leave it for calorie diet. Individual daily values may be higher or lower depending on calorie needs. approximately 15 minutes. Avocado oil contains NutritionData.com sterolin, which is able to penetrate deeply into

Nutrition Facts

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Avocados are one of the safest fruits you can buy conventionally grown, and most experts do not believe you need to purchase organic ones. Their thick skin protects the inner fruit from pesticides. Additionally, it has been rated as one of the safest commercial crops in terms of pesticide exposure, so there's no real need to spend extra money on organic avocados, unless you can afford it.

ADDITIONAL HEALTH BENEFITS Further research is now discovering additional health benefits. For example, besides its anti-inflammatory properties, previous research from Japan suggests this powerful fruit may also help protect against liver damage. In one study laboratory rats were fed avocado and 22 other fruits. The rats were then given D-

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the skin to moisture it. Studies suggest that sterolin is effective in reducing the occurrence of age spots and help to soften the skin.

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So what are sterolins? Sterol is a plant fat found in all plant-based foods. Sterolin is its glucoside, a molecular structure joined to the sterol. Sterolin is easily destroyed, and without it, the sterol does not have the same immune-enhancing benefits. Sterolin-1 and Sterolin-2 are encoded with two genes ABCG5 and ABCG8 that are considered transporters and binders of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) and are found to be indispensable for the regulation of sterol absorption and excretion. Mutations in either genes result in a lipid disorder known as sitosterolemia.

2. Skin Rejuvenation facial mask: Avocado is a natural moisturiser that contains natural humectants that when massaged into the skin will quickly plumb and hydrate the skin. You will need an entire avocado fruit to make a facial mask recipe. Crush the fruit until it becomes soft mass (paste) the add 1-tbsp of avocado oil to the paste. Cleanse the face and apply the mixture over the facial skin and perform a facial massage to nourish the skin and activate the blood supply to the skin. Leave the mask for 15 minutes to allow it to penetrate into the skin layers. Gently remove excess mask. You may also find that you do not need to apply an additional moisturiser.

3. Skin Clearing Mask: As avocado is also rich in vitamin A, it

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benefits the skin by helping to purge off any dead skin cells. As avocado also contains glutamine amino acid this further helps to deep cleanse the skin and offers it protection against harsh environmental factors. Mix one avocado with a little oatmeal and a few drops of fresh lemon juice to create an excellent exfoliating, purifying and skin brightening mask.

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APAN

4. Rejuvenating the scalp: If we speak particularly of the avocado benefits for hair, avocado oil helps rejuvenate and moisturise the scalp. One can use avocado oil for hair in more than one ways as it's an exceptional treatment for revitalising dry, damaged, lifeless hair. It deep conditions your locks and scalp and hence leave them looking lustrous and full of life. Moreover, being a rich source of proteins, amino acids and vitamins, avocado oil also helps promoting the growth of healthier tresses.

5. Boosting skin immunity: Avocado oil is often recommended by skin therapists to be used on the face on a daily basis for its exceptional hydrating benefits and because of its high Vitamin A and E levels it also helps boost the skin's immunity against stress and other environmental hazards.

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6. Sunscreen: Avocado oil is a natural sunscreen that keeps harmful UV rays from wreaking havoc on your skin and an excellent treatment for mild sunburn.

CONCLUSION As new research brings to light new findings it is refreshing to know that we can still improve the skin with simple and time-proven ingredients that are in abundance and easy to access. It's all about choice and understanding your clients' needs.

REFERENCE: Journal of Agriculture and Food Chemistry: Inhibition of Cholesterol Oxidation Products (COPs) Formation in Emulsified Porcine Patties by Phenolic-Rich Avocado (Persea americana Mill.) Extracts http://www.betterhealthinternational.com/lib_Moducare.asp Liver Injury Suppressing Compounds from Avocado (Persea americana) ACS Publications

“I had spent thousands of dollars getting legal advice to address my staffing issues not to mention the stress. Then someone told me about APAN and I spoke to an expert there and immediately realised that I could have access to top information and expert advice so quickly and easily and at a very reasonable rate of just joining as a member. Now when I have a query or a question, I just flick an email to APAN and within the hour I receive expert industry advice or legal advice from their solicitors it's amazing. As a professional I know my information needs to be accurate and credible. Through APAN I have access to not only the best but I also get my needs met fast! Joining was the best decision I ever made. Linda Bentley, NSW “My association with APAN is one that I greatly value. It is exciting to be part of a great organization and a large professional network that can offer me expert support and credible advice. APAN has brought a new level of service that we have not experienced before and they have shown great integrity within the industry. Their commitment and passion for the good of the industry is inspirational. Whenever I have reached out to them they have always been very positive and resourceful. I have also found them very generous in giving above my expectations and helping me achieve my goals. Nella Faraone, Western Australia

It's not what we say about ourselves – it's what others say about us that matters! ㄰ 㤵 㜵

“I was going through a major business crisis and it was recommended to me to phone APAN to join and access their mentoring and consulting services. Within half an hour of speaking with Tina Viney I was given immediate expert advice and gained clarity on how to address the issue at hand. Tina presented me with some incredible advice and options that allowed me to solve my issue straight away. To think we can access on industry leader of her calibre for a small yearly fee is amazing. For her wealth of knowledge and expertise I expected to be paying my yearly fee as an hourly rate. I am sold on the value of my membership with APAN.” Jenny Good, ACT

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With a strong motto of members first APAN delivers what it promises. They are committed to your progress. Join the APAN Community of Practices. Invest in membership and reap the rewards. Phone 07 5593 0360.


Mobile Marketing is themost powerful media ever invented – New York Times

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STAND OUT FROM THE CROWD Custom Built Smartphone Apps

HAVE YOUR OWN MOBILE APP BUILT! APAN Strategic Alliance Partner Kharis Enterprises are professional Smart Phone Apps developers, with over 20 years’ association with the Aesthetic and Beauty Industry.

SOME OF THE FEATURES AN APP CAN SUPPLY PUSH NOTIFICATION – Connect with customers for free. Use “PUSH” Notification to get clients to fill empty treatment slots.

PRODUCT INFORMATION – Include video clips, testimonials and detailed information. The more information your clients are receiving from you the more likely they will want to purchase your products.

LOYALTY PROGRAM THROUGH GPS COUPONS – Use the Smart Phone built-in GPS to implement “GPS Coupons”.

USING QR CODE COUPONS – Smart Phones scan a digital barcode called a QR Code (see ㄰ 㤵 㜵

at top). This QR Code is read by the Smart Phone and contains information about anything you want.

SPECIAL OFFER $500 discount for the first 5 APAN Members who order their Business APP from Kharis Enterprises. To discuss your Business App or for further information contact Kharis Enterprises M: 0412 177 423 | E: apps@kharis.com

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legalmatters ㄰

BULLYING – The New Law by Michael Bishop and Sophie Ware Pointon Partners – Lawyers & Trademark Attorneys In an attempt to further protection for employees in the workplace as of 1 January 2014 (Commencement Date) the Fair Work Commission (FWC) will be invested with additional powers allowing it to make orders to prevent bullying in the workplace.

THE AMENDMENT ACT The Fair Work Amendment Act 2013 (Cth) (Amendment Act) was passed by the Federal Parliament on 27 June 2013, and by doing so implements a number of the recommendations made in the 2010 Fair Work Act Review and further additional proposals made as to the amendment of policy, including protection against bullying. These amendments will take effect on the Commencement Date, some six months later than that desired by the Federal Government, 1 July 2013, but necessary due to political reasons. The Amendment Act has specifically included in the provisions the word 'worker' as opposed to 'employee', which has the effect of expanding the group of individuals entitled to make a claim with the FWC. Worker is given the same definition as may be found in the Work Health Safety Act 2011, not including a member of the Australian Defence Force, and includes an individual who performs work in any capacity, including (as prescribed by incoming clause 789FC(2)): ㄰ 㤵 㜵

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

An employee A contractor A subcontractor An outworker An apprentice A trainee A student gaining work experience; or A volunteer.

With the Amendment Act comes a new definition for bullying. The definition to be found within clause 789FD, is as follows:

1. A worker is bullied at work if: (a) while the worker is at work in a constitutionally covered business: (i) an individual (ii) a group of individuals repeatedly behave unreasonably towards the worker, or a group of workers of which the worker is a member; and (b) that behaviour creates a risk to health and safety.

EXCLUSIONS Under the new anti-bullying provisions provided for in the Amendment Act a worker will not be deemed to have been bullied, or is being bullied, in the event the behaviour in respect of which the claim was made is deemed reasonable management action carried out in a reasonable manner.

MAKING A CLAIM TO FWC Under incoming clause 789FC(1) a worker who reasonably believes they are being bullied in the workplace is entitled to make an application to the FWC. The application must be filed in conjunction with the relevant fee.

When an application is received by the FWC they must take into account the following considerations: 1. Workplace procedure available to the affected worker in the workplace set up to prevent and deal with workplace bullying 2. Any outcomes arising from the performance of workplace procedure made available to the worker to prevent and deal with bullying 3. Any outcomes determined from an investigation into the bullying conducted by another individual, group or body 4. Any other matters that the FWC deems relevant in the circumstances.

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There is no income threshold for the making of a claim by a worker. Accordingly, regardless of income, should a worker reasonably believe that they are being bullied, they will be entitled to make an application to the FWC to stop the bullying. Pursuant to incoming clause 789FF(1) the FWC may make an order to stop bullying if the worker has made the appropriate application and the FWC is satisfied that the worker has been bullied at work by an individual or group or individuals and there is a risk that the worker will continue to be bullied at work by the individual or group.

REMEDIES The powers of the FWC are aimed at preventing bullying and are not directed at punishing those involved in past bullying. Essentially the FWC will have the power to make an order they deem appropriate, except for the payment of monetary compensation or reinstatement, to prevent a worker from being bullied in the workplace. The FWC will have the power to make orders requiring an individual, or group of individuals, to cease any behaviours that may be considered to be bullying under the circumstances. Alternatively, the FWC may also make orders requiring the respective employer to implement certain training within the workplace or anti-bullying policies. In the event an order of the FWC is contravened a civil remedy will be available to the worker in respect of whom the original FWC order was made. Remedies for the civil remedy would include monetary compensation.

HOW DOES THIS AFFECT EMPLOYERS? The full effect this amendment will have on employers will not be fully known until the FWC receives its jurisdiction and begins exercising it accordingly. However, it is likely that the procedures set up and implemented by employers in respect of bullying in the workplace will likely be at the forefront of discussion.

Accordingly we advise that prior to the Commencement Date employers do the following: 1. Review any workplace bullying policies currently in place 2. Review mechanisms for dealing with workplace bullying 3. Provide training and information to employees 4. Inform workers what they should do in the event they believe they are being bullied 5. Ensure that any complaints made by a worker are dealt with in a professional and timely manner 6. Ensure outcomes of complaints previously made are correctly implemented and effectively stop, and prevent, further bullying.

CASE NOTE: SWAN V MONASH LAW BOOK CO-OPERATIVE

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Bullying in the workplace has been a long standing issue being dealt with in the court system, with a number of cases being brought due to claims of serious injury and negligence, and a breach of duty of care by the employer. The case of Swan v Monash Law Book Co-operative (who traded as Legibook) is one of the more recent cases involving bullying. In this matter, the Supreme Court of Victoria awarded $600,000 to an employee after developing psychological disorders due to a pattern of workplace bullying, including sarcasm, hostility, rudeness, violent behaviour and the threat of termination. After making complaints to the Board of Legibook it was agreed that the behaviour being displayed was inappropriate and identified means of assisting Ms Swan including the application of position descriptions, employment contracts and employment policies. The Board failed to

POINTON PARTNERS LAWYERS If you have any queries in relation to this article or any other legal issues affecting your business please feel free to contact Michael Bishop or Amelita Hensman of Pointon Partners. APAN members receive an initial free consultation in relation to any legal queries or issues they may have. Pointon Partners is a client-focused commercial law firm based in Melbourne, but which services clients nationally. Pointon Partners is able to assist with: ! advice on obligations under the Fair Work Act & the Hair and Beauty Industry Award 2010; ! preparation of employment contracts; ! advice on termination of staff & defending of unfair dismissal claims; ! registration of trademarks; ! trademark disputes; ! preparation or review of commercial leases; ! negotiation & preparation of commercial contracts; ! franchising; ! wills and estate planning; and ! buying or selling a business.

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Michael Bishop or Amelita Hensman of Pointon Partners can be contacted on (03) 9614 7707 or by email mjb@pointonpartners.com.au or ah@pointonpartners.com.au implement the identified measures. After making it known to the Board on at least two further occasions, Ms Swan discontinued employment with Legibook. It was found that Legibook had failed in their duty of care to Ms Swan by not adequately dealing with the complaint of bullying. The $600,000 amount awarded to Ms Swan was on account of loss of past earnings and future earnings and damages for pain and suffering and loss of enjoyment of life. Cases like that of Swan v Monash Law Book Co-operative should act as an example to employers and show that employers must act promptly to complaints of workplace bullying. In the event employers do not have the appropriate policies in place now is the time to implement procedures within the workplace to prevent bullying, have a workplace bullying policy issued and ensure a procedure for dealing with complaints is set up. Pointon Partners has experience in advising on the above issues, including the preparation of bullying policies. ㄰

ABOUT THE AUTHORS Michael Bishop LL.B(Hons) B.Comm(Hons) Director, Pointon Partners. Michael has Honours degrees in both Law and Commerce from the University of Melbourne. Michael is a member of the Law Institute of Victoria Workplace Relations Committee. Sophie Ware BComm LLB(Hons) Lawyer, Pointon Partners. If you have any queries or require any assistance in this area please contact Michael Bishop or Sophie Ware at Pointon Partners on P 03 9614 7707 | F 03 9614 6676 | E mjb@pointonpartners.com.au

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