APJ Vol 48 2021

Leaders in Education

Spring Volume 48 2021

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD.

A COMPLETE CLINIC GROWTH SOLUTION

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SKINCARE WITH AN ATTITUDE A TESTIMONIAL “I am extremely passionate about MEDER. In the 20 years that I have been in the beauty industry, it is the first skincare range that truly resonates with me. I love that it is science-based, results-driven, restores the skin's microbiome, is Pre & Probiotic, ethically sourced and packaged, and created by an incredibly intelligent woman. How could I not love this range! I personally use all of the products, and I have seen such great results with my own skin, not to mention I have been achieving outstanding results with my clients. There is no better feeling than to see people regain their confidence because their skin is healthy. And that is thanks to MEDER!” Mia Bella Advanced Skin & Beauty Sunshine Coast

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THE TRUSTED BRAND FOR PROFESSIONAL, ADVANCED AND TARGETED SKIN THERAPY RESULTS Manufactured in Switzerland under the highest quality-assured standards.

CLINICALLY PROVEN PRE & PROBIOTIC FORMULATIONS Meder Beauty Science offers 6 easily marketable professional treatments to provide solutions for the most skin concerns. The combination of organic plant extracts and the latest biotech ingredients make Meder Beauty Science one of the few truly effective clinically proven cosmeceutical brands in the global market.

MEDER BEAUTY SCIENCE guarantees you excellence in treatment outcomes.

0466 338 844

admin@mederbeautyscience.com.au

mederbeautyscience.com.au

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IN THIS ISSUE SPRING VOLUME 48. 2021 BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT

HOW TO SECURE POSTS FOR SOCIAL MEDIA SUCCESS

MAXIMISING THE CHRISTMAS TRADING SEASON

18-19

66-67

TRANSPARENCY, THE CRUTIAL ELEMENT IN BUSINESS

THE SEVEN LEADING HUMAN STRATEGIES FOR IMPROVING HUMAN PERFORMANCE

48-49 WHY SIGNIFICANCE IS AN ESSENTIAL ELEMENT OF TRUE SUCCESS

REGULATIONS, STANDARDS AND EDUCATION 20-21

72-74

PMU DEVELOPMENT PROGRAM

THE NON-SPOKEN QUESTIONS WITH COSMETIC TATTOOING CORRECTIONS

28-30 INNOVATIVE EDUCATOR LAUNCHES DERMAL DISTINCTION TRAINING ACADEMY

50 THE CHANGING LANDSCAPE OF SKIN MANIFESTATIONS

60-61

94-99 TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS

76-79 THE POWER OF COLOUR IN COSMETIC TATTOOING PART 1

100-101 TAKING A HOLISTIC APPROACH FOR ORAL CARE AT ANY AGE

WHY YOUR EYES NEED AN EYE CREAM

INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS, PRODUCTS AND COSMETIC MEDICINE

9-10

44-45

CEO REPORT

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT DERMAL FILLERS

22-23 WHY DO PROFESSIONALS AND BUSINESS OWNERS JOIN APAN?

54-57

24-25

MENTAL HYGIENE AND BUSINESS SUPPORT PROGRAM

AN INTERVIEW WITH ELISABETH HOGERDIJK

38-40 REFRESH AND REJUVENATE SKIN, SPA, BEAUTY – OFFERING A LEADING FORMULA FOR NURTURE AND CARE

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PRODUCT INNOVATIONS

86-87 AESTHETIC BULLETIN

102-105 SCIENTIFIC NEWS

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 32-34

82-85

ROMAN VS GERMAN – EXPLORING THE WORLD OF CHAMOMILE

NEW RESEARCH REVEALS WHY MAGNISIUM IS CONSIDERED AN ESSENTIAL MINERAL FOR SKIN HEALTH

52-53 THE COMPOSITION AND USE OF SHEET MASKSTHE COMPOSITION AND USE OF SHEET MASKS

88-89

58-59

90-92

PROFILING COLLOIDAL OATMEAL AND ITS ROLE IN SOOTHING SKIN IRRITATIONS

68-71 SKIN PROTECTION – A SCIENTIFIC UPDATE FOR DERMATOLOGISTS AND AESTHETICIANS

LIQUORICE ROOT EXTRACT AND ITS BENEFITS – MORE THAN JUST CANDY

VAPING AND THE SKIN

Editor Dr Giulia D’Anna (07) 5593 0360 editor@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com

Printed For Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network ACN: 136 987 169 ABN: 25 136 987 169

Typesetting & Graphics Angus Thompson Amy Dylko TEV Group Pty Ltd

Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre QLD 4218

Advertising & Marketing Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com Fax:(07) 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre QLD 4218 Australia Publisher TEV Group Pty Ltd Design & Production Artwork and Editorial TEV Group Pty Ltd Unit 7D 76-84 Robina Town Centre Drive, Robina QLD 4226 Australia Phone: (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com Mobile: 0412 177 423

Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt - Education Features Wendy Neely - PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose - Scientific Content

National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Chris Testa Gill Fish Carole Jackson Julia Grinberg ISSN: 1836-9812 Pint Post Approved [100000257] Circulation 6900

Leaders in Education

Front Cover

Spring Volume 48 2021

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD.

LASERAID 02 9011 5509 www.laseraid.com.au For further information see pages 10-13

A COMPLETE CLINIC GROWTH SOLUTION

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The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

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Dr Giulia D’Anna

EDITOR’S LETTER Can you believe we are in the final weeks of 2021? This year has been full of dizzying heights and then some very real lows, particularly in Victoria and NSW. But despite all of this, my head is in a great place and I am full of ambition and drive to make up for lost time. Our clients have been through this with us and will need us more than ever. So, it is our task to keep our head clear, our mind in a great place and our bodies in good health to keep up with the final push of 2021 towards the new year. This year, APAN will be including a MENTAL HYGIENE program valued at $395 as a gift for all who renew their membership. It is a valuable way of giving back and helping businesses that are be experiencing or may experience challenges in the future in this area with their staff and clients.

I am so hopeful that in 2022 I will get to travel and be a physical part of conferences. The APAN conference, like so many, was virtual for good reason. And it was a beautiful success, bringing education and information to all of us through the crazy times we found ourselves in. However, I am thirsty for being in the same room as other like-minded people to learn together, grow together and above-all-else, just be together. I truly believe that 2022 will be a year of rapid growth. Our businesses will overcome and conquer the challenges we have faced, as we pivot and adapt to the flourishing client demand. Just today, my clients were telling me that they have saved money from not travelling and are going to spend it all on themselves because that is a “sure thing”. Personal care is a certainty. Our clients know that and even more, they want it. Certainly, they want to feel and look good. When I look to the next year or two, I have a list of things I would love to accomplish. I cannot wait to get back to working with clients, teaching practitioners in the art of injectables and skin, but also trying to keep up the passion for exercise and walking that I seem to have come to love during the lockdown. I would love to hear about what is on your list for 2022 and I look forward to hearing all your success stories. You all deserve it!

editor@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com APJ 6

APJ Contributers

Terry Everitt

Katherine McCann

Gay Wardle

Professor Terry Everitt is regarded as a ‘Master Skincare Professional’ due to his extensive knowledge in the art and science of skincare. A very competent educator and regular lecturer on aesthetic and medical conferences where he presents up-to-date information from an evidencebased scientific perspective. Terry is the Director of Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd.

Katherine McCann has moved to her new dual position within APAN. Her new title will now be Regulations and Standards Advisor and Press and Media Liaison. Additionally, Katherine will continue to contribute to APJ through articles on Cosmetic Tattooing as this is an area in which she is truly an expert.

Gay Wardle is a well-known multiawarding winning industry expert and a renowned lecturer who conducts advanced skin analysis training for businesses and their staff on all issue pertaining to skin science.

aestheticeducators@gmail.com.

Jacine GreenwoodDrummond Jacine Greenwood is an internationally recognised educator who is known within the industry for her up-to-date knowledge and her ability to deliver training in an easy to understand method. Jacine holds six Diplomas, including a Diploma of Cosmetic Chemistry and a Bachelor of Nursing. Her knowledge is highly respected in the cosmetic industry. With over 22 years experience in the industry and a background of cosmetic formulation, Jacine has an immense knowledge of current trends in research and new developments in the industry.

0418 708 455 gay@gaywardle.com.au.

0405 069 311 k_mccann@me.com

Deb Farnworth-Wood

Trish Hammond

We are delighted to welcome Deb Farnworth-Wood as our new business expert. Deb will be sharing her wealth of knowledge in each issue of APJ.Her column - Wisdom in Business will present valuable, business-boosting tips. Deb is a leading figurehead and business development expert with amazing achievements, also within our industry. She has an incredible reputation as a serial entrepreneur. Expect to gain winning strategies from this amazing woman.

Trish Hammond is an award-winning blog and social media expert and the director of Plastic Surgery Hub. She is renowned for her skilful writing and interviews in all facets of the social media space. Her company specialises in the Aesthetics, Cosmetic Surgery and Cosmetic Medicine industry sectors for which she provides personalised and comprehensive services to help businesses communicate powerfully, grow their brand and capture new clients and patients.

deb@ultimateskinandbody.com.au

0429 264 811 info@plasticsurgeryhub.com.au.

07 3807 1429 jacine@roccoco.com.au.

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CEO REPORT

Tina Viney APAN CEO

Dear colleagues and friends, WHAT LIES AHEAD AND THE ROLE OF APAN SINCE MY REPORT in the winter issue of APJ so much has happened. So, many of you have reached out to us for help and we have listened to identify the best way to support you. In this report I want to bring some clarity with regards to the current status of what is happening with the COVID-19 rules and where we see our role. As the various states have opened from their mandated lockdowns, the directions given by the government of what is required to reopen have been somewhat contradictory and at times confusing, causing a great deal of panic to many. There is no doubt that the government’s agenda is to vaccinate as many people as possible, and while most within our industry have complied, there have been some cases where vaccination has been potentially problematic and they have reached out to us for support. I want to make it very clear that our role is to listen to our members carefully and thoughtfully and where warranted, put forward recommendations to the government and bring to their attention specific cases where an exemption should be considered. While there is no guarantee that an exemption order would be issued, our role is to present your cases, and I can assure you that in some cases we have had success. Even when we have not succeeded in bringing the desired outcome, it has not been a waste of time as we have had the opportunity to have in-depth and serious discussions with various state government departments making them aware that those in our industry who hold skin-penetration licenses and infection control qualifications should be considered as low risk. As an example, at the end of August, we contacted both the Victorian Premier’s Office and the NSW Premier’s Officer as well as the Health Ministers of both states, requesting consideration with regards to permission for the clients to remove their masks within the treatment room with a protocol recommendation that would not compromise infection control safety. This was because some guidelines in the roadmaps were indicating that masks were required to be worn by the practitioners as well as the clients throughout the procedure. This virtually meant that anyone having a facial treatment would not be able to be serviced. In essence, this is most of our members.

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Both NSW as well as Victoria, immediately contacted us and confirmed that our recommendations would be taken into consideration for any further directives. Since then, the need for mandated facial masks for clients during a treatment has been removed from any further reopening orders. ONCE A HEALTH ORDER IS ISSUED IS THERE ANY ROOM FOR FLEXIBILITY? The answer to this question is a definite no, as Health Orders are the instrument that render the necessity for vaccination nonnegotiable. These Health Orders are usually based on the level of risk that have been identified with the various business sectors. For example, age-care and healthcare workers who are in contact with sick or ageing individuals with low immunity, or with preexisting conditions are considered high risks, so these workers are mandated to be vaccinated. Our industry technically is not considered high risk and therefore there is room for some level of negotiation or flexibility in certain cases with the appropriate departments. As a result, we did receive a vaccination exemption from the NSW Health Order Exemption Department for dermal and skin therapists who were not working in private practice allowing this category flexibility with the issue of vaccination. However, when we applied for the same exemption in Victoria, while three different departments attempted to provide us with a similar exemption order, unfortunately they were not able to succeed. Please note that we did not apply for exemption for general beauty services, this was a specific request for dermal therapists and skin therapists who hold the appropriate license and qualifications. In actually fact, our request was specifically for flexibility with mask-wearing for the client during a skin treatment. We were surprised to gain flexibility also on the issue of vaccination. Several people requested exemptions for a medical reason, and we were able to provide them with an appropriate form (IM011) provided to us by our solicitors called the Australian Immunisation Register immunisation medical exemption (IM011). However, our lawyers have indicated that there are limitations for doctors to issue exemption certificates for medical reasons.

“Very frequently I’m asked what motivates me. And I can tell you, I crossed the line a few years ago where the success of other people became the highest priority for me than my own success. I can honestly say, I owe the success of what I do to the fact that I place the wellbeing of our members and the industry above any monitory gain, and I will not have it any other way.” - Tina Viney

MOVING YOUR BUSINESS FORWARD – TWO AREAS OF CONCERN While several salons and clinics have had to make minor and some major changes to their business model it is encouraging to see that client bookings are at an all time high. Several members have reported that it has been such an emotional experience to see clients so thrilled and excited to return, and in most cases, business activities for most salons and clinics are looking very positive for well into the summer months and beyond. If I were to sum one the two key areas that require review of protocols they would have to be: •

Skin reactions from the use of masks and stress

•

Mental health

The health advice that we have received from the government is that there are no specific recommendations or precautionary pretreatment time-frames when servicing vaccinated clients. It is up to each industry to determine the recommendations. Having gone through a few consultation processes with other healthcare industries our recommendation is to wait approximately 2-4 weeks after both vaccinations, before an invasive procedure is delivered, such as skin needling, laser and IPL, cosmetic tattooing, or injectable procedures. This would allow the immune system to be better prepared to face another need for healing or skin repair, following a procedure. There have been several reports of skin swellings, increased dryness, skin sensitivities and inflammations post-vaccines, while others have stated that they have not had any reactions. However, if a client insists that you treat them immediately, we have prepared a LIABILITY WAIVER which we are giving our members for their clients to sign as a means of protection for them. The other area is mental health concerns. The current statistics indicate that one in five homes are experiencing mental health issues and even domestic violence which are on the increase. Going by the formal advice we have received from several organisations, these instances are reaching epidemic proportions. While there are several mental health programs available, some are very involved and time consuming to navigate. We have therefore prepared a special kit for each business owners on MENTAL

HYGIENE specifically designed for our industry, which is valued at $395 (check the article on this journal). However, all new members or renewing members will receive these kits FREE OF CHARGE as we believe every business should have a strategic plan in place, both for prevention and appropriate support in the event that they identify behavioural changes and need instant access for dvice. As we approach the end of the year, I want to take this opportunity to thank all of you who have placed your confidence and trust in us, allowing us to support you through the challenges you are currently facing. Let’s believe that as the country reaches the government’s target vaccination levels that more reasonable rules will be introduced that also take into consideration business survival. My advice to you all is to make sure you prioritise to take care of your health, both your physical and mental wellbeing. Your future depends upon it. As an industry, we are providing a valuable and timely service for the wellbeing of our clients. Make sure you and your team take your regular breaks and protect yourself from burnouts, especially as businesses are currently experiencing extra workload. Stay safe, continue to invest in your knowledge. Stay informed and innovate wisely towards your future survival and growth. Opportunities still exist and businesses are still able to find ways to continue to grow and prosper. As for APAN, we are committed to your wellbeing and your professional development. We are already looking at plans to provide you with greater value in 2022. In the meantime, please prioritise to renew your membership so that we can continue to serve your needs as the workload continues to increase with us as well. Our team join me in wishing you the very best this festive season and may the new year bring you the best that life has to offer, as well as success and progress that you deserve. Standing with you Tina Viney Chief Executive Officer

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COVER STORY

LEADING THE WAY IN DEVICE EXCELLENCE, QUALITY SERVICE AND AFFORDABLE PAYMENT SOLUTIONS

SINCE 2007, LASERAID HAS BEEN SELLING AND SERVICING devices and working with salons and clinics to up-skill their teams and grow their businesses. Originally selling and servicing Candela laser hair removal equipment, Laseraid has expanded into a diverse range of equipment and consumables, including an exclusive distribution agreement with Beco Medical, one of the leading and most wellknown manufacturers in Europe. All Laseraid equipment come from reputable manufacturers such as Zimmer, Athlegen and Viora and are backed by the famous Laseraid service and support. With the addition of rental options, Laseraid has enabled clinics to grow, quickly and without stress. With offices located in Sydney, Brisbane and Melbourne, as well as a servicing capability across Australia and New Zealand, Laseraid now works with thousands of clinics and salons, providing premium service and affordable prices. The range of equipment now covers laser hair removal, fat freezing, body contouring, cooling machinery and facial treatment devices, together with a complete list of day-to-day consumable products, such as gloves and bed-sheets. Laseraid is the one-stop-shop for the beauty and aesthetics industry. With extensive experience and industry knowledge, Laseraid has

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mastered the skill of what it takes for a business to be successful. Offering quality devices, exceptional support and service ensures that those who partner with Laseraid are supported to achieve leading treatment outcomes and on-going and sustainable business growth. "The way I see it" says Laseraid CEO Farzad Hendi," there are two significant issues that all clinics face at various stages of growth. Those are first, getting high-quality devices into a new clinic without a massive upfront cost. Second, once a clinic is established, having the ability to scale up while avoiding putting the business in a financially precarious position." Laseraid is a fixture of the beauty and aesthetics industry. For nearly 15 years the business has been a reliable, one-stop-shop for clinics of all sizes, offering a wide range of premium devices with extensive capabilities from laser hair removal, skin treatment, fat freezing and tattoo removal solutions. In addition, they provide a complete range of consumables and one of the largest – and certainly the most responsive – service teams in Australia. "Our service department is a real point of great pride for us," says

"Our products are reflective of an evolving and highly responsive industry" says Hendi. "That's why we offer our clients the opportunity to upgrade or change devices depending on the response from their clients. After all, regardless of how effective a treatment is, the only result that matters for a clinic is how many satisfied people walk through the door regularly. Our goal is to help clinics thrive, not just survive, and it is our philosophy to be adaptable so that we are part of the solution and not causing clinic owners additional stress."

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Hendi. "We understand the downtime costs for clinic owners and we ensure our clients have the least possible downtime when it comes to faults - our service team is available seven days a week for our clients." In an effort to help clinic owners have the best devices in their clinics without the financial burden, Laseraid has recently introduced a new way to acquire a device that they are calling a 'Subscription.' PROVIDING COST-EFFECTIVE SOLUTIONS Hendi explains. "We were looking for a way to offer a complete solution in a single package. With our subscriptions, clients choose a device and then we provide full servicing support, training for the team, marketing support and we even include a monthly consumables credit that can be used in our online store. The subscription fee itself is broken down into a simple weekly cost. We work with clinic owners to measure that cost against the profitability of the treatment. We call this the mathematics of clinic growth." Hendi explains that Laseraid and the clinic owner work out the number of treatments that are likely to be completed per day and then multiply that number by the days per week that the clinic is open. Then, this number is multiplied by the average treatment cost which gives the clinic owner their break-even. "Because everything is included in the subscription, there is no need to account for hidden expenses such as training or servicing,” says Hendi. "The way I like to explain it is that if it takes a full day of treatments to pay your subscription fee, then you've got another five or six days of pure profit. This is the entire point of the subscription model, not only making it easier to have devices in your clinic, backed by a complete business solution, but also learning more about the financials behind treatment profitability." Laseraid has partnered with several major brands and is constantly expanding its product line-up. Names that will be familiar to those in the industry include Cynosure, Lumenis, Candela, Laseroptek, Viora and Beco. "Our products are reflective of an evolving and highly responsive APJ 12

industry" says Hendi. "That's why we offer our clients the opportunity to upgrade or change devices depending on the response from their clients. After all, regardless of how effective a treatment is, the only result that matters for a clinic is how many satisfied people walk through the door regularly. Our goal is to help clinics thrive, not just survive, and it is our philosophy to be adaptable so that we are part of the solution and not causing clinic owners additional stress." When asked what was the most important part of the subscription model, Hendi explained that it is Laseraid's holistic, individualised approach. "Every clinic is different. While it would be much easier to provide a generic solution that includes certain marketing strategies, some training and regular device health checks, there are far too many variables to consider. For example, some clinics are introducing a brand-new service and won't have any experience on the device, so we need to provide robust, hands-on training to ensure the best outcomes for their clients. Some clinics are just starting up and so require additional marketing assistance. We diagnose every clinic based on where they are at and offer them the support they require." THE FUTURE OF THE AESTHETICS INDUSTRY Discussing the future of the beauty and aesthetics industry, Hendi was philosophical. "I have my own opinions on that, but Laseraid will respond to market conditions as they arise. As we've seen, it's not always the case of one treatment being better or worse than the other, but perhaps more often, certain treatments striking a chord, making clients feel better about themselves, and we won't let our own bias get in the way of our client's success." With hundreds of clients around Australia, Laseraid is one of the leading equipment suppliers to the aesthetics industry. Their subscription model offers complete solutions to clinics at every stage of growth. APJ LASERAID 02 9011 5509 www.laseraid.com.au

SUBSCRIPTION Providing you with a complete range of devices to achieve leading treatment results for face and body. — Leading Brand Name Devices — Marketing Support — 7-Day Servicing and Support — + Monthly Store Credits — Training Complementary treatments to accelerate treatment results that can be successfully integrated into your clients’ aesthetic, or cosmetic injectable regime.

02 9011 5509 www.laseraid.com.au

A COMPLETE CLINIC GROWTH SOLUTION

You will be able to create, effective treatment packages that can deliver leading results that your clients will enjoy and stick to. Predictable Costs | Minimum Downtime | Increased Revenue | Growth Opportunities APJ 13

ADVERTORIAL

FOLLOWING THE GREAT SUCCESS of their Hydrating Recovery Mask HYDROMERSE SKINCARE recently extended their range, launching HYDROMERSE COSMECUTICALS. Hydromerse Hydrating Recovery Mask is a new generation, sheet-free hydrating and soothing hydrogel mask and the perfect solution to hydrate the skin, especially before and after cosmetic and aesthetic procedures, or any time you need a hydration boost. It is not only deeply hydrating, but is also cooling, soothing and repairs any skin damage assisting the skin to recover more quickly from any irritation. To complement the Hydrating Recovery Mask in October 2021, Hydromerse launched six new professional grade cosmeceutical skincare products designed and formulated to treat ageing skin. Hydromerse products complement and work perfectly and in synergy with each other. They are proudly Australian Made, Owned,

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Cruelty Free and Vegan. WHAT ARE HYDROMERSE COSMECEUTICALS? The Hydromerse Cosmeceuticals have been carefully formulated bringing science and nature together for enhanced results. They achieve this by incorporating bio-active botanical extracts together with scientifically-validated ingredients that provide potent nutrients to soak up free radical stress and enhance cellular renewal. Hydromerse Cosmeceuticals are designed to achieve professional results and are the perfect companion products to be used with advanced skin treatments when optimal treatment outcomes are the objective. These formulations deliver both cosmetic results, as well as support the skin’s barrier function providing beneficial outcomes and improving cell function for both skin health and beauty. The range consists of topically applied creams and serums containing high strength active ingredients that can deeply penetrate into the skin providing proven efficacy and enhanced cellular function. WHY ARE HYDROMERSE COSMECEUTICALS SO EFFECTIVE? The success of the Hydromerse formulations is due to the quality of the ingredients and their capacity to deliver the active ingredients into the skin. These include multiple peptide complexes such as: •

Progeline (Trifluoro acetyl Tripeptide-2): A three amino-acid peptide that works by inhibiting the production of progerin, a cell-ageing accelerator protein. Progeline has been found to decrease the production of progerin, a protein in skin that speeds up cellular ageing. By decreasing the production of progerin the youthful appearance of the skin is maintained.

•

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7: This peptide is composed of four amino acids plus fatty acid palmitic acid to enhance stability and penetration into the skin. Peptides have different functions on the skin and this peptide helps to replenish and calm visible signs of inflammation.

•

Heptapeptide 8: This is one of the newest anti-ageing ingredients known to mimic the action of laminin-5, an important molecule that is present in the dermal-epidermal junction and is responsible for improving its function.

•

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1: Also known as pal-GHK and palmitoyl oligopeptide. Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 is a synthetic fatty acid-linked peptide that can help repair visible skin damage and strengthen the skin’s underlying supportive elements. It’s categorised as a messenger peptide because of its ability to enhance cell-to-cell communication, improving the appearance of the skin specifically with regards to visibly fading the signs of sun damage like wrinkles and rough skin texture.

Other hero ingredients included in the range are: Dragons Blood extracted from the Sang Du Draco tree. The extract is rich in protective antioxidant phenols and anti-inflammatory compounds. Dragon's blood extract helps to protect the cells of the skin and reduces redness and swelling. It contains multiple antioxidants and wards off free radicals that cause premature ageing. It also deeply moisturises, promotes cell renewal and even boosts collagen production. Additional ingredients include Coenzyme Q10, Natural Vitamin E, Aloe Vera, Cucumber Oil, Hydrolysed Marine Collagen, Quercus Superbark (Nature Lift), Resveratrol, Retinyl Palmitate, Sea buckthorn Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamins C and B3 (niacinamide) and many natural botanical extracts such as Kakadu Plum which contains 55 times the concentration of Vitamin C than Oranges. APJ

HOW CAN I BECOME A STOCKIST? As a skin professional we offer you very special pricing via our “Salon and Clinic Ordering Page”. Simply contact us via the website to access the Stockist Pricing so you can place an order. WHERE CAN I FIND OUT MORE INFORMATION? More details about Hydromerse Cosmeceuticals can be accessed from our website or on social media. www.hydromerse.com @hydromerse

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SOCIAL MEDIA

HOW TO SCHEDULE POSTS FOR SOCIAL MEDIA SUCCESS Trish Hammond NO MATTER HOW SMALL or large your business is, it’s really important to have a social media marketing strategy. Scheduling your social media posts is also an important part of this strategy. Needless to say it has many benefits. Manually looking for content and posting on your social media channels every day can get very stressful. And even worse, you can get burnt out, and this will seriously take the fun out of posting on your social media platforms! However, once you know the effective way of doing it will make this process it can become quite simple to know how to schedule posts for social media success. In this article, we’re going to share some tips from The Pink Room on how we create social media posting schedules for our clients. So, grab yourself a cuppa, take five minutes to yourself, and let’s do this! WHAT IS A SOCIAL MEDIA POST SCHEDULE? Simply, a social media schedule allows you to determine what you’ll post and when you’ll post it - days, weeks, or months in advance. WHY DO YOU NEED A SOCIAL MEDIA POST SCHEDULE? We don’t create social media schedules just for the sake of it. As an agency, we look for time-efficient ways to manage our precious time in helping other businesses with a busy workload.

checking your socials audience insights. Post when your audience is active. Remember, posting too often will not increase your reach or grow your audience any faster. On the contrary, your account may come across as spammy, so you actually may lose potential followers. •

Use Social Media Scheduling Tools: By using social media scheduling tools you would not only be more efficient, but you’ll save valuable time as well. Facebook provides Facebook Creator where you can manage and schedule your posts or stories across all your Facebook Pages and Instagram accounts from one central location. And guess what? It is FREE!

•

There are many different social media scheduling tools to choose from, however, most offer the same two features. The first one is, obviously scheduling your posts not just on one, but on multiple social media accounts. The second one is the muchneeded analytics that can serve you to get to know your audience and improve your content strategy.

SIMPLE STEPS TO FOLLOW FOR SCHEDULING POSTS USING FACEBOOK CREATOR 1. Go to your Facebook Business Page. 2. Click “Publishing Tools”.

Here are some of the benefits of getting that schedule implemented: •

Avoiding last minute cramming.

•

Don’t miss out on the ‘special’ days and festive seasons, such as International Women’s Day, Black Friday, etc.

•

Create a solid content mix and combination that is well balanced and appealing.

BEST PRACTICES FOR PROPER SCHEDULING OF SOCIAL MEDIA POSTS • Avoid “on the spot” posting and save your precious time for more important tasks. Having said that, it’s also great to do the occasional ‘on the fly’ post or story, depending on what’s happening in your business or your life that you want to share there and then. But scheduling your social media posts is always the wisest strategy to ensure your messages are consistent and streamlined. If you don’t know where to start, here are some of the best practices for proper scheduling of your social media posts. •

•

Create Valuable Content: Content that provides answers to the pain points of your target audience and makes doing business with you easy for them. You can do posts about who you are, who you help, and how you can help them. Tell them what you are the expert at and what sets you apart. Optimise your Posting Frequency: You can determine this by

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3. In Facebook Business Suite, you’ll be directed to “Posts & Stories”. 4. In the upper right corner, you can choose from “Create Story” or “Create Post”. 5. Tap “Create Post” when scheduling a post then tick off your Instagram Page if you want to cross post. 6. Add your caption, then add a photo or video. 7. In the lower right corner, you can tap the arrow down beside “Publish” and choose the date and time you want to post. Remember, a social media schedule is a collaborative thing. Writers and social media managers can plan and schedule content. To help you along, we’ve created a Social Media Calendar to help you on the way. You can download yours at this link. https://thepinkroom.com.au/content-calendars/ Email the trish@thepinkroom.com.au for a free 15-minute discovery call. APJ

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BUSINESS

TRAN SPARENCY

The Crutial Element in Business Dr Giulia D’Anna TRANSPARENCY IS A TERM OF DIMINISHING LINGUISTIC VALUE in the realm of business. Fanatically overused, the word has become a marketing tool that persuades consumers to trust the seller. The cut-throat nature of the business world seems to demand that transparency become a principle of theory rather than practicality. But should transparency just be a superficial value for us as women in business? Or is there merit in chasing after true transparency in your company? In my 20 years’ experience as a business owner and medical practitioner in both the dental and cosmetic industries, being honest and open with patients has been invaluable. My conscious transparency has meant that everyone who walks through my door feels that they can trust me. Why true transparency is crucial to a successful career is an important question for all women in business to consider.

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WHAT IS TRANSPARENCY? First, let’s think about true transparency. At first glance, transparency could be described as pure honesty, but this is rather simplistic. Rather, transparency is as about the timing of an organisation’s honesty as much as it is about the honesty itself. It is quite useless to disclose crucial information about someone’s health, a product’s quality, or financial losses months afterwards! True transparency is the timely and full disclosure of information. However, so many businesses struggle to deliver this. Why? Here are a few reasons that I’ve come across: 1. Compensation : Bonuses are a great incentive to help create hardworking employees, but it also acts as an incentive for misinformation. Workers put under the pressure of a commission or generous compensation are naturally more tempted to falsify or omit information that makes your

company less transparent. It may also create a culture where options offered to a client are limited to those of higher value, and not necessarily the best suited to the client. Think carefully about how you compensate your employees and create a culture of security and honesty. 2. Superior/inferior mentality: “That’s above their pay grade” is a common expression that raises suspicion about the transparency of an organisation. Employers often only share information on a need-to-know basis. If company information is compartmentalised, it can lead to employees and clients feeling paranoid, uninformed, and sometimes betrayed, or not feel part of the team at all. In order to drive a business forward, each team member needs to have all the information. Without transparency, it is like trying to drive a car to an unknown destination without a map. It simply cannot work. 3. Unclear expectations: Often in the buzz of running a business, general expectations can be overlooked. Uncertainty among employees is the thorn in the side of businesses striving for transparency. I have seen one moment of innocent ignorance from an employee that has caused a ripple of mistrust and resentment through the employee body and clientele, because everyone else is picking up the pieces. Full disclosure of company information can seem like a daunting and unintelligent move. This leads businesses to commonly view timely honesty as a burden and to use transparency as a mere communication theory rather than practice. But it is this attitude that is a core problem for so many businesses. WHY IS TRANSPARENCY IMPORTANT? The main reason a company will sacrifice their transparency is that it is often under-appreciated or under-valued. Once you understand the purpose and benefits of corporate transparency, you will see how crucial it is to succeed. Building trust is at the core of business transparency. In my experience as a medical professional, business is nearly impossible without my patients feeling like they know what is going on. In fact, I cannot proceed with any treatment until we have achieved a clear understanding between my client, myself and what my company stands for. In the medical arena, for true consent to be achieved, honest and open communication is at the heart of transparency. Without it, my business would cease to exist. Corporations and businesses are usually not perceived as naturally trustworthy by the general population with a large percentage of people suspicious of corporate greed. For this reason, it is necessary for us to work even harder at being transparent to ensure that consumers are satisfied. For me, this means explaining every element of a procedure, or warning patients of all the risks involved in treatment options and procedures. As well as customer satisfaction, there is a range of benefits to having a transparent culture in your business. Here are my top three: 1. Employee happiness: Studies have shown that transparency had a correlation coefficient of 0.94 employee happiness, making it the number one factor in workplace satisfaction. This is not surprising, considering that we have already established that trust is crucial for healthy business relationships, and transparency breeds, trust. Investing in good relationships with your employees with transparency means keeping them up-todate with company strategies, events, and decisions. Being open about these will create a culture of teamwork, value and

connection that is vital for efficient business. I have seen the benefits of having a workplace culture that puts employees at ease and of feeling trusted and valued, which in turn makes my patients more comfortable! 2. Level the playing field: A fixed company hierarchy, created through the privatising of information, is a thing of the past. The top-down approach to business has been exposed as an inflexible and inefficient way of running a workplace. Transparency helps to create a flatter leadership structure that encourages information sharing and continuity to your business. Some of the best ideas come from the team members that run operations on a day-to-day basis. We need a culture of information-sharing to remain vital and dynamic to our clients’ needs and wants. 3. Realistic goal setting: There is nothing worse than the feeling of falling short of a goal. This is often a result of unrealistic expectations, goals, or attitudes. Transparency and access to all information make the creation of attainable goals easy! Employees will be encouraged by the impact of their work, while executives will be satisfied with workplace output and business owners will rest easy knowing that they have made the most of their fiscal year. I can attribute many of my own achievements to the realistic goals that a transparent business model outline. Ensuring your business is transparent (from a business owner like myself that makes it a crucial part of daily operations). Now that we have thought about what transparency actually is here are a few practical tips that have helped me remain transparent. •

Don’t fake it – It’s obvious: Businesses often go for a transparent aesthetic but are not ready to put in the authentic work that true transparency takes. Don’t do it. Clients and employees can tell when your honesty is faked. Admit your mistakes, ask for help and be humble. Being authentic in your business will create a culture of trust for everyone who you work with and for you.

•

It pays to be honest: Hiding your mistakes can seem like the safest choice, but as soon as they are exposed your entire business will be compromised. Keep everything out in the open, the good and the bad. Even omitting information can lead to the downfall of your company. Don’t risk it. Besides it is so much easier to keep it real.

•

The early bird gets the worm: If you’re playing the waiting game, you’re playing the wrong game. Use every means necessary to address problems and concerns early. Just like the saying, trust is a fragile thing. It is easy to break, easy to lose and one of the hardest things to ever get back. Being transparent will help keep trust safe. Conversing continuously with clients and employees ensure that you are always transparent, always honest, and always trustworthy.

Integrity is always based on honesty and transparency. As professionals, maintaining high standards of ethical conduct goes hand-in-hand with our commitment to excellence with our treatment results. APJ

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PMU

DEVELOPMENT PROGRAM With the launch of the new nationally-accredited Diploma in Cosmetic Tattooing, the PMU industry is getting ready for a major qualification overhaul. Are you prepared for the changes and how they will impact you? APAN is launching a PMU Educational program from the 29th of November that will provide you with quality education and industry updates on how best to prepare for the changes. The program and will be featured online so that you can register and view it regardless of your location. Each session will be approximately 20-30 minutes. You can choose to view them in the order you wish and at your convenience. This event will feature new industry updates - a must for all PMU practitioners.

$199

$219

APAN Member

Non-Member

Attendees will receive a Certificate of Attendance and will be awarded 10 CPD points towards their professional development.

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PROGRAM COSMETIC TATTOO REMOVAL TECHNIQUES Alice McIntosh Senior Lecturer and Trainer Are you undertaking eyebrow corrections? Learn the safe and successful way of tattoo brow removal.

CTARP REGISTRATION – YOUR MARK OF RECOGNITION Tina Viney CEO of APAN

MASTERING LIP TECHNIQUES Katherine McCann Lecturer and Trainer

In a progressively crowded PMU market enhance your reputation and consumer recognition through industry endorsed registration and stand out from the crowd. CTARP registration will provide you with peak industry body endorsement and recognition you can be proud of.

Designing a lip-line and full lip tattooing can be quite transformational in improving one’s appearance. Learn the latest tips for enhancing ageing lips that deliver beautiful outcomes and with less pain.

OMBRE EYEBROW DEMONSTATION Alice McIntosh Lecturer and Trainer

WHEEL OF HEALTH - THE NEW FRONTIER IN SKIN RECOVERY POST PMU PROCEDURES Chris Testa Compound Pharmacist and Senior Lecturer Both topical anaesthetics and skin recovery products are evolving into new and better formulations. Learn the latest industry developments and product formulations that can now provide you with optimal level of protection, enhancing rapid skin repair and transform your treatment outcomes, while enhancing your bottom line.

LIP COMPLICATION WITH COSMETIC TATTOOING Maja Ercegovac Master Trainer Mastering lip tattooing is a very rewarding experience. However, lips are the most painful area of the face. Furthermore, with age they can lose volume and become uneven, creating serious challenges. Learn both how to avoid and how to correct complications and achieve beautiful results.

NEW COSMETIC TATTOOING QUALIFICATION Liz and Robert McGowan Directors of Think Aesthetics (RTO) The new nationally-approved SHB50320 Diploma of Cosmetic Tattooing has now been sighed off and will soon be available, replacing the previous unit of competency SHBBSKS003 Design and Provide Cosmetic Tattooing. Learn how this will impact you and the future of PMU.

Ombre eyebrows are the very latest trend in eyebrow design that can provide amazing natural and beautiful results. Learn some leading techniques to master this procedure.

COLOUR THEORY & COLOUR SELECTION IN PMU AND ACHIEVING SUCCESSFUL COLOUR CORRECTION Carol Dinis Senior TAFE Lecturer and Trainer Understanding how colour is formed in the skin, how to enhance and how to neutralise them once inserted into the skin is both a science and an artform and getting it right will determine the success or failure of your end result. Learn the principles of getting it right.

YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED Tina Hammond, Georgie Westley, Jemma Wood, Nicole Prance and Katherine McCann (Moderator) Give us your questions and let our experts answer them. This will be a fun, dynamic session where industry experts will answer your questions and share with you their wisdom and advice for all things PMU.

WHY OMBRE EYELINER IS GAINING POPULARITY Louise Adeline Learn why ombre eyelines is fast becoming a popular procedure. Enhance the eyes with amazing powder finish creates the illusion of more youthful and larger eyes without the harsh outlines.

FORMULAE COMPOUNDING

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WHY DO PROFESSIONALS AND BUSINESS OWNERS JOIN APAN? APAN supports members with knowledge and expertise guiding them to operate with the highest standards of quality, service and ethical conduct.

Programs to enhance professional development Strong industry representation voicing your needs with the Government Structures to support professional recognition Proven reputation of strong industry commitment

Members’ needs come first

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07 5593 0360

www.apanetwork.com

APJ 23 info@apanetwork.com

PROGRAM

WE ARE LAUNCHING A

Mental Hygiene and Business Support Program

AS AN INDUSTRY BODY APAN HAS INVESTED IN SEVERAL STUDIES AND GOVERNMENT PROGRAMS presenting updates on how COVID-19 is impacting mental health in Australia. The studies are revealing alarming statistics indicating that one in five homes are experiencing mental health issues, while the incidents of domestic violence are reaching epidermic proportions. Going by the formal advice we have received from several organisations and government agencies the predictions are that these statistics are expected to increase in 2022. There are many people hurting because of job insecurities or job losses, and this is contributing to major relationship disruptions in the home, as well as inconsistent performance in the workplace. Through our on-going research and investigations on how we can support the industry, it has become apparent to us that we should encourage every business to implement a Mental Hygiene program as a preventative measure. This program will need to include policies and procedures aimed at providing proven measures to help both prevent mental health concerns, as well as identify situations that may warrant support through an appropriate referral. While there are several mental health programs available from numerous websites, many of them are difficult to navigate, are very time consuming, or are not particularly suited for our salon and clinic business environment. APAN therefore identified the need to develop its own mental hygiene program, the APAN Mental Hygiene and Business

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Support Program that is tailor-made for our specific industry needs and can be implemented easily and effectively. The program consists of a kit with a variety of tools to help you immediately introduce it into your workplace. WHY MENTAL HYGIENE? The advantage of a mental hygiene program compared to a mental health program is that mental hygiene is focused on preventing mental health outbreaks by providing you with tools that can allow you to easily implement time-efficient strategies to strengthen mental agility within the workplace, home, or community. Similarly, as taking care of your hygiene for the purpose of preventing disease and infections, the aim of a mental hygiene program is to introduce simple, daily strategies that together, aim to prevent mental disorders and strengthen one’s capacity for mental and emotional subtility, for enhanced productivity and quality of life. Through the plasticity of the brain, mental training activities can foster healthy cognitive patterns that are conducive to well-being. WHAT WILL THE PROGRAM AIM TO ACHIEVE? Our intention for putting this program together is to provide our members with much needed support through a quality, evidencebased approach. The program will provide business owners and managers with: •

Simple, easy to implement daily activities, which may take as little as just one minute

•

Daily activities to reframe the brain to focus on positive thought processes

•

View oneself as mentally healthy rather than mentally fragile

•

Create a mentally healthy team atmosphere

•

Build and strengthen personal development

•

Foster personal responsibility

•

Enhance problem solving capabilities

•

Improve productivity

•

Establish effective support structures

•

Provide business owners and managers with proven and reliable tools to foster and maintain a happy work environment where the team feel supported

•

Ultimately, provide a business owner with peace of mind.

The kit includes several tools from educational articles, templates and daily exercises, videos, referral information for immediate and emergency needs and access to a mental health coach that is familiar with the program to help provide you with additional support when needed. The APAN Mental Hygiene and Business Support Program is valued at $395 and available to be purchased from APAN. However, by joining as a member or renewing your membership the program will be provided to you FREE OF CHARGE.

YOU HAVE A DUTY-OF-CARE These turbulent and uncertain times can breed anxiety, but businesses must remain agile and flexible to change. If you are a business owner, you will no doubt be required to carry a diverse range of responsibilities to maintain business viability. Whether you are working too hard, dealing with the need to implement new strategies, facing pressures at home, staff concerns or even clients who are undergoing challenges, this program will allow you to gain valuable skills to support yourself and others. We believe it is prudent in this current climate that EVERY BUSINESS has as a reliable, scientifically backed Mental Hygiene strategy and protocols, both as a protective measure and for peace of mind. This is essential as part of their duty-of-care to those under their supervision. You now can access this program FREE with your renewed membership and start 2022 with confidence. Don’t allow unexpected disruptions to sabotage your productivity and your ability to sustain the right mental health atmosphere for continued growth. If you are not an APAN Member and wish to access this program for FREE, please visit www.apanetwork.com. If you require further information, or wish to purchase the kit, please phone 07 5593 0360. APJ

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STAR PERFORMER

THE BEST SENSITIVE SKIN ROUTINE FROM ISSADA IF YOUR CLIENT HAS SENSITIVE SKIN, either due to mask-wearing, nvironmental irritation or internal factors, this is one skin type that you will need to treat with extra care. Fortunately, ISSADA has done the work for you by creating the perfect collection of skincare formulas ideal for sensitive skin. Their four-piece cosmeceutical skincare pack is designed to repair and restore the skin’s barrier function, hydrate, soothe and reduce inflammation strengthening and improving skin quality. 1. Daily Gentle Cleanser ISSADA’s cleansing gel is gentle enough for even the most sensitive skin. Rather than stripping the skin of moisture, it locks in hydration while deeply cleansing your pores, leaving skin soft and supple. Combines super-hydrating properties with a gentle cleansing action to efficiently remove make-up, dirt, debris and environmental pollutants. 2. Collagen+ Support Serum This supercharged serum supports the skin barrier by delivering a vital nightly boost of antioxidant, hydration and

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collagen through Vitamin C, Marine Collagen and Hyaluronic Acid. This multi-action formula supports collagen production and strengthens elastin. 3. Calming Probiotic Moisturiser We've all heard that probiotics improve gut health by balancing your gut’s good bacteria. These ‘friendly’ bacteria help break down food, absorb nutrients and fight off ‘unfriendly’ organisms. Special strands of probiotics work similarly for the skin and are super effective for their anti-inflammatory action, making them great at reducing redness, irritation and soothing skin conditions including acne, rosacea and dry skin. Ideal for skin prone to acne or redness and for a sensitised or compromised skin barrier. 4. Overnight Hydrating Masque Rich in natural, organic ingredients including Kakadu Plum, Lilli Pilli and Quandong that soothe and nourish, this is the ultimate nightly moisturising treatment to hydrate and repair damaged cells while you sleep. The RRP for this pack is $234 (includes a bonus free cosmetics bag valued at $25!) Importantly, ISSADA’s range of Australian skincare and mineral makeup is 100% cruelty-free, parabenfree, talc-free, vegan and palm oil-free. For products and stockist enquiries call 07 3904 2288 or email admin@issada.com. To learn more about becoming a stockist, visit issada.com/partners APJ

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APJ 27

ADVERTORIAL

Innovative Educator Launches Dermal Distinction Training Academy Dr Giulia D’Anna

MOST OF YOU KNOW HER AS THE EDITOR OF APJ JOURNAL, but she is much more. Dr Giulia D’Anna is a highly qualified and talented dental, cosmetic medicine practitioner and dermal therapist, and in recent years she has added “educator and trainer” to her bow of achievements. Giulia is passionately dedicated to the ongoing perfection of new techniques in cosmetic excellence. Through skilfully applied modalities such as dental care, cosmetic injectables and skin treatment procedures Giulia brings a new level of beauty enhancement with the hallmarks of the best of natural beauty and youthfulness. Her incredible technical skills and artistic flare are fast gaining her a reputation as a true leader in her field. Having also being involved with training for over six years Giulia has now launched her own training academy – Dermal Distinction Training Academy. Here we catch up with Giulia as she shares with us her journey and how she plans to introduce a new level of treatment excellence to cosmetic procedures.

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Q1: GIULIA, CAN YOU GIVE US SOME BACKGROUND INFORMATION ABOUT YOURSELF AND WHAT MADE YOU GO INTO DENTISTRY AND COSMETIC INJECTABLES? I graduated as a dentist from Melbourne University in 1996 and started up my own dental practice iDental just two years later. I have always had an interest in aesthetics and health and have studied various cosmetic treatments, including the latest trends in veneers and tooth whitening over the years. Around the same time, I moved into our new boutique dental practice building in 2006, I began to study skin treatments. At that time, it was purely for myself, I was not consciously thinking that I would incorporate this into my professional work life. The game changer for me was in 2013, where my mentor, a highly respected Oral and Maxillofacial surgeon suggested that I look at gaining some education in cosmetic injections. I spent some one-on-one time with him working in this area, and I also attended many intensive workshops on cosmetic injectables. Up until then, I had never really thought too far beyond the teeth, so paying reference to the face was ground-breaking. I mean, how many times have we seen a friend, family member or celebrity that has brilliant white straight teeth, but their face does not match with the same health or youthfulness. By enhancing both the smile and face, I am now really putting things back into proportion and truly achieving a full aesthetic outcome. Since that time, I have attended and been involved in countless continuing education courses (both in the dental and medical circles). I have received qualifications in dermal therapy and skin science. I have undertaken anatomy at Pennsylvania University, and I have since been recognised as an Australian Expert for Teoxane, a leading global dermal filler and skincare brand. This is truly a huge honour, especially for a dental practitioner in

Australia. I have been called to speak at both medical and dental education events many times, and it has been an amazing journey, that I have truly loved so far. Q2: WHY DID YOU ESTABLISH DERMAL DISTINCTION TRAINING ACADEMY (DDTA)? There are a few reasons. I have been working in cosmetic injectable education for over six years now, and I truly love connecting and educating dental practitioners. Cosmetic injectables are an important part of dentistry, and I would love for dentists to keep an open mind and to consider these treatments in their treatment plan for patients. Dermal filler and the use of botulinum toxin are within the scope of practice for dentists, where they have solid training, understand their personal level of competence (as we should in any treatments that we perform) and understand the options, complications and risks. When I am working within Dermal Distinction Training Academy, I know what it is to be a dentist. I understand the balance of working with patients, and the results that dentists would like to achieve, as well as what it takes to make a success of incorporating injectables into the dental practice. I love to enable dentists to also achieve those results and feel confident that they can deliver them. My mission is to give education with a solid basis of anatomy and proven science-based protocols, whilst providing support and guidance in a dentist’s injecting journey. Q3: HOW IS DDTA DIFFERENT? One of the real differences is the quality of education. My mentor is world renowned plastic surgeon Mr Patrick Trevidic, whom I love to learn from and work with. His guidance and love for educating is phenomenal. This further feeds my ability to pass on knowledge, and high-quality material to all those practitioners that I work with through DDTA. He is so generous with his provision of cadaver videos, dissection photos and illustrations, which are unlike anything available elsewhere - truly breathtaking. The Dermal Distinction Training Academy courses are divided into three main components. First, we begin with a solid e-learning course, through high quality videos, cadaver dissection, anatomy and injection techniques. Practitioners are assessed along the way, to ensure that they are engaged and understand the information. During the e-learning course, each practitioner can connect directly with myself or other practitioners to ask questions and

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receive guidance. The e-learning course is undertaken at a pace that is driven by the course delegate. Once final assessments are completed, the next step is to schedule a practical session. These are based in my accredited dental clinic, with safety protocols in place. This is super important. Beforehand patients are assessed, a consultation is set up and specifics of treatment, risk discussion and other consent details are discussed. This is well ahead of the practical session, so patients have time to consider the treatment and have a “cooling off” period. Again, this is important. Only a very small number of delegates are allocated for each practical session. Delivering quality and focused education is paramount, whilst maintaining a safe treatment experience for all involved. The last part of the DDTA journey is continued and ongoing mentoring. Once the course day ends, most practitioners still need guidance, especially if injecting is new to them. Each delegate receives free access to a complete resource vault of material. This includes consent forms, marketing material, AHPRA fact sheets, journal articles and much more. There is also a members’ hub to discuss cases, ask questions and so on. Additionally, we offer coaching sessions every month, where practitioners can return and treat patients in-clinic for further guidance. I have seen so many dentists and nurses do courses and then never venture forward. I would like to change that pattern. There is a full course pathway available at DDTA with support, so practitioners can expand their knowledge, grow their patient results, and we build a community of support along the way. Q4: WHO CAN UNDERTAKE YOUR TRAINING? At Dermal Distinction Training Academy, we offer training to Medical Doctors, Dentists and Registered Nurses that are registered with AHPRA. We love sharing new skills and offering support through the entire injecting journey, whether they are a new injector requiring the foundation skills, through to the experienced injector that needs personal training tailored to them. We also offer coaching sessions once a month, where practitioners can come back and perform treatment under their trainer’s supervision. We literally offer it all! APJ

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Dr Giulia D’Anna DERMAL DISTINCTION TRAINING ACADEMY 03 9859 78 59 Dermaldistinction.com

Ready to start delivering beautiful results with cosmetic injectables? Then study with us at Dermal Distinction Training Academy!

Watch, learn, refresh & inject with confidence. We’re ready when you are!

Why you should train with us: + Written for practitioners in an easy-tofollow format + Re-watchable online modules LIP ARTISTRY USING FILLERS & BOTULINUM TOXIN CHIN & JAWLINE

+ Flexible schedule to avoid clashes with work + Up-to-date with AHPRA guidelines + FREE Ongoing support, membership and mentoring

PERSONAL TRAINING

+ Safety protocols and equipment in place + Small Training groups

BASIC SKIN SCIENCE

CHEEK STRUCTURE MASTER

DERMAL DISTINCTION TRAINING ACADEMY www.dermaldistinction.com 3 Belmore Road, Balwyn North 3104 (03) 9859 7859

+ Taught by the esteemed dentist, cosmetic injector and educator of over six years, Dr Giulia D’Anna in her accredited practice

APJ 31

ESSENTIAL OIL

ROMAN VS GERMAN

EXPLORING THE WORLD OF CHAMOMILE Tina Viney

MY FIRST ENCOUNTER with chamomile was during the 70s when I first visited Greece. I discovered that it was a common practice that during spring many who live in densely populated cities would venture on excursions and explore the countryside to experience its charm. This is still common today as families often purchase fresh herb and olive oil from selected farms to stock up on, seeking the highest level of purity and freshness. It was early April and the weather was glorious, so a bunch of us decided to visit the countryside and that is when I experience my first, spectacular view of a beautify field covered with bright white and yellow little flowers that exuded a fresh, delicate aroma. It was like nothing I had ever experienced before and when I enquired as to what they were, I was told I was looking at a field of chamomile. Needless to say, I just had to pick a bunch of them and this allowed me to experience my first cup of brood chamomile tea extracted from the fresh flowers. The task was delicate, but deliciously aromatic, with a fresh almost sweet herbal taste that had a substantially superior taste to the tea made from the dried chamomile flowers, which can be a little bitter. In Europe, chamomile is found in most kitchen cabinets. Renowned for its calming and soothing properties chamomile is highly regarding for its trusted medicinal properties and regularly used as a calming drink at bedtime to induce sleep, or to soothing an upset stomach for both children and adults. Chamomile has been used for thousands of years and its benefits are not just anecdotal. A quick search will uncover copious scientific studies that validate its impressive medicinal properties. The two most common species of chamomile currently commercialised and used for health treatments are German chamomile and Roman chamomile. Although both herbs belong to

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the Asteraceae/Compositae family and are used to treat similar health problems, they have different chemical composition, morphology, and applications. For example, the essential oil and chemical constituents of these two varieties are markedly different. In this article we will explore the main features of German and Roman Chamomile, identifying their unique traits and beneficial effects. GERMAN CHAMOMILE VS ROMAN CHAMOMILE First things first: both German chamomile and Roman chamomile are great for alleviating anxiety and reducing stress. However, they achieve this through slightly different pathways due to the difference of their chemical constituents. As stress is a very common phenomenon that many of us cannot avoid, we can all benefit from any of the two. GERMAN CHAMOMILE While examining both, you will discover that German chamomile essential oil is blue. This is due to the high content of its bluecoloured plant pigment called azulene. If the bottle of German chamomile essential oil you are about to buy is not blue, then it only means that it’s not the real deal. German chamomile – is formally known as Matricaria chamomilla L. or under its synonym Matricaria recutita L. Its leaves are bipinnate or tripinnate – further subdivided in a pinnate arrangement – with flowers carried in paniculate capitula – type of inflorescence. German chamomile is native to most of the European and Asian continents, but the plant is also present in North and Southwest America. In order to grow well vegetated and produce an

unlike German chamomile, it doesn’t contain azulene. If the bottle of Roman chamomile essential oil you are holding is not clear, be doubtful. Roman Chamomile – formally known as Chamaemelum nobile (L.) or under its synonym Anthemis nobilis – is a Mediterranean perennial plant of about 16-32 cm height. The flowers are typically big, with a white colour and a strong enjoyable fragrance. It is native to the UK, Southwest Europe (mainly Spain and Portugal), North Africa and Southwest Asia. However, this variety is cultivated all across Europe. The substantive “nobile” (Latin word for “noble”) was attributed to the plant due to its therapeutic properties, which were stated to be better than those of the German chamomile. Unlike German chamomile, the main therapeutic constituents of Roman chamomile are esters of angelic and tiglic acid, together they contribute health benefits to the plant. Roman chamomile is often associated with relaxation, sleep and digestive health. In this regard, studies conducted with chamomile highlight the calming effects of this herb, which acts as a mild tranquilliser.

abundance of flowers, German chamomile needs full sun and heat, and high temperatures are necessary in order to produce optimum oil yields. German chamomile is a self-seeding annual. It grows from 20cm to 60cm tall. The leaves are ferny and delicate, and it has a typical aster flower, with a yellow disc in the middle surrounded by evenly spaced white florets. The flower smells like apples, and the essential oil derived from the yellow and white flowers of this plant is blue due to high levels of azulene. The main therapeutic constituent of this variety of M. chamomilla is terpene bisabolol, which comprises 50% of the chamomile’s essential oil. Several studies have documented the multiple pharmacological actions of alpha-bisabolol, among which we find anti-bacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, anti-spasmodic, anti-ulcer, anti-viral, and sedative effects. Current studies are exploring the anti-proliferative and apoptotic effect of chamomile extract in various human cancer cell lines. Preclinical studies observed that the anticancer activity of chamomile is due to the presence of apigenin – a bioactive compound present in both chamomile varieties mentioned above. When it comes to herbal tea shopping, it’s a good idea for you to go for German chamomile tea if you are suffering from arthritis and rheumatism, and you wish to ease both swelling and pain without heavily relying on side-effect causing NSAIDs. That’s because German chamomile is known for its anti-inflammatory properties. However, due to its high azulene content with its strong antiinflammatory, soothing and calming properties, you will find it in skincare specifically formulated for sensitive skin conditions. Also adding one or two drops of German Chamomile within your massage cream or under a mask can provide soothing and cooling properties especially after a procedure that may inflame the skin. ROMAN CHAMOMILE On the other hand, Roman chamomile essential oil is clear because,

However, recent studies are unlocking some of the secrets hidden behind Roman chamomile. For instance, research shows that the antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of essential oils in C. nobilis possess the highest antioxidant activity. A study published in the Journal of Natural Products reports the anti-inflammatory properties of Roman chamomile, highlighting its potential benefits on hypoglycaemia and the ability to reduce oxidative stress. But if your primary reason for taking chamomile herbal tea is for alleviating digestive conditions such as acid reflux, it is better to opt for Roman chamomile tea as it’s revered for its ability to soothe the GI tract. Overall, both Roman and German chamomile can provide you with a great deal of benefits. In summary here are just a few that are supported by recent studies: KEY BENEFITS OF CHAMOMILE ESSENTIAL OIL 1. Insomnia By inhaling chamomile oil, studies confirm that plasma adrenocorticotropic hormone levels that induce stress are lowered, allowing for relaxation. As demonstrated in a 2006 study with human participants, the effects of inhaling the oil promoted calmness and sleep quality among healthy volunteers. 2. Skin German chamomile essential oil has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial components that promote healthy skin. A natural healer for skin conditions of eczema, ulcers, wounds, bruises, burns, and irritations, this oil’s uses are endless. Minor and major skin irritations such as chicken pox, poison ivy, diaper rash, cracked nipples, and eye and ear infections can be treated with this oil. 3. Anxiety and Depression Widely used as a calming fragrance, Roman chamomile essential oil is said to promote relaxation and reduce anxiety. Tests confirm the scent reportedly triggers brain sensors to release a sense of calm and peacefulness. A study conducted in 2013 and published in Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine confirmed that when used with a combination of lavender ad neroli essential oils Roman chamomile was able to successfully treat anxiety patients.

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4. Digestion Additionally, Roman chamomile is known for its antispasmodic properties. For this reason, it has been successfully used to treat digestive issues such as flatulence, acid reflux, diarrhea, vomiting, leaky gut, and indigestion.

Case Western Reserve University first reported in a 2007 study, the plant extracts caused little growth inhibitory effects on normal cells with reductions in cancer cells viability. By using chamomile, the cancer cells were destroyed without any harmful substance invading the normal cells.

5. Allergies For both food and seasonal allergy issues, both German and Roman chamomile essential oils may reduce symptoms of congestion, skin swelling, and skin irritations. Their antimicrobial and antioxidant components have also been used for treating hay fever.

9. Arthritis Roman chamomile has been recommended to ease the pain of arthritis by adding oil directly to the affected joint or adding to a warm bath for an overall body treatment. Its antiinflammatory properties allow for a healing topical effect.

6. Premenstrual Syndrome The antispasmodic properties of Roman chamomile are credited with relaxing the muscles to prevent cramping and aches and pains that accompany this condition. It could also help to fight depression by boosting mood. Roman chamomile essential oil may also control hormones that cause acne, as suggested in one study. 7. Heart Roman chamomile can also help to promote a healthy heart and protect from harmful substances, due to the flavonoids it contains. These proteins have high antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties that have been shown in some studies to reduce coronary heart disease mortality. Roman chamomile may also help lower blood pressure. 8. Cancer Preliminary research has shown skin, prostate, breast, and ovarian cancer cell growth may be inhibited with chamomile oil.

Roman Chamomile

10. Childhood Illness Whether for fever, upset stomach or earache, both German and Roman chamomile have been used with some success in children. It has had promising results for those diagnosed with attention deficit hyperactivity disorder (ADHD). Studies have also shown it useful to treat colic in infants.

IN CONCLUSION Both German and Roman chamomile offer incredible medicinal uses such as for pain, fever, flushing out toxins, promoting healthy skin and calming nerves. Both have antibacterial, antibiotic, antiinflammatory, and sedative properties; however, as their chemical components are slightly different experts believe that while they can both be used interchangeably German chamomile with it high azulene content is highly effective with skin inflammation and skin conditions in general, while Roman chamomile is excellent for system and physiological conditions such as muscular pain and nervous disorders. APJ

German Chamomile

Perennial that grows 12 inches tall with, seed planted or by flowering head going to hairy stems with fine-cut leaves and one inch diameter flower.

Seed planted or by flowering head going seed that grows 24 inches tall with hairless,stems and parse leaves with flowers spreading up to two inches in diameter.

Aroma of light apple.

Aroma of sweet straw.

Distilled oil is clear to pale yellow.

Distilled oil is dark blue.

Native to Middle East, Europe and East Africa.

Native to Europe and northern Asia.

Cultivated in Argentina, England, France, Belgium, and United States.

Cultivated in Hungary, Egypt, France, and Eastern Europe.

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HIFU GETS AN UPGRADE

SAFER, FASTER AND IMMEDIATE RESULTS

Introducing UTIMS A3 PLUS - one of the most popular TGA-listed (Class 2A) device, that is the latest in HIFU technology. This device is lightweight and easy to use, offering immediate results (not after three months). So, what is different with this Centerless HIFU? HIFU cartridges often emit energy from a concave surface, which results in a larger density of energy delivered to the middle of the pattern. Centerless HIFU calculates the angles required to ensure consistency in its heat patterns and only delivers energy where there will be no overlapping areas. By regulating the surface of the energy delivered, centerless HIFU dramatically reduces the risk of superficial burns and allows you to provide, safer, more effective treatment outcomes. Here is how it compares: STANDARD HIFU

CENTERLESS HIFU

Inconsistent energy output

Consistent energy output

Great risk of burning

No overlapping areas

Less effective treatment

Safer and more effective results

Centerless HIFU produces consistent, safe heat patterns that dramatically reduce the risk of superficial burns by avoiding any overlap areas. It is the safest HIFU for: •

Face and body sculpting

•

Body shaping

•

Skin tightening

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WHY IS UTIMS A3 PLUS SUPERIOR? It is the world’s first centreless HIFU. It is virtually painless, safer and very easy to operate. You will experience immediate results and it can be used with clients who have undergone threat-lifts or injectable procedures. The UTIMS A3 PLUS is literally a profit centre. The pen-shaped transducer produces single shots to create pockets of collagen in areas of depression e.g. laxity around the temples, or under the eyes. The Egg-shaped focal point for faster treatment that lasts longer as you coagulate more collagen fibrils that will give you immediate results. You will be able to treat both the face and body areas with just one system with a choice of nine transducers with different depth options. It delivers HIFU energy to 1.5mm, 3mm, 3.5mm, 8mm, 13mm and 18mm depths. Another excellent feature is that it offers remote troubleshooting, as the system allows you WIFI connect option so in the event of any software problems or systems upgrade, these can be immediately addressed without the need for transportation costs and lost time – that’s more business for your clinic. APJ 1800 628 999 www.clinicalpro.com.au

UTIMS A3 PLUS

SAFEST HIFU SYSTEM FOR FACE LIFTING, BODY SCULPTING AND SKIN TIGHTENING

Amaze clients with a non-invasive and painless treatment that gives immediate, visible results. UTIMS A3 PLUS offers industry-leading safety features for accurate, stable and stronger heat lesions from the epidermis through to the SMAS layers. Its centreless transducer produces consistent, safe heat patterns and dramatically reduces the risk of superficial burns by avoiding any delivery of overlapping energy. In doing so, it also increases the efficacy of treatments and allows for coagulation in tissues to reach 70-80°C with no pain or downtime. This makes for incredibly safe and effective treatments with results clients love. Unlike most HIFU treatments (which usually take 90 days to show), UTIMS offers immediate, visible results that only get better over time. TREATMENT INDICATIONS • • • • • •

Skin Tightening & Deep Dermal Rejuvenation Eyelid Lifts & Eye Bag Removal Lifting of Sagging Jowls Lines & Wrinkles, Crow’s Feet & Forehead Fat Reduction of Double Chin & Body Areas Cellulite Reduction

Results by UTIMS

For further information, contact ClinicalPRO at 1800 628 999 or ask@clinicalpro.com.au

scan for details

Nasolabial Fold

3 Months After

Neck Tightening

Immediately After

Double Chin

Immediately After

Fat Reduction

Immediately After APJ 37

MEMBER PROFILE

R EFRESH AN D R E J U V EN AT E

SKIN SPA BEAUTY OFFERING A LEADING FORMULA FOR NURTURE AND CARE RACHAEL MARGACH is the owner of Refresh and Rejuvenate Skin Spa and Beauty – a beautifully appointed business located in Golden Grove in South Australia. She has been an APAN member for just three years and during that time we have greatly admired the efficient, wise and responsible way that she has handled her challenges, especially over the past 18 months since COVID-19 impacted businesses and the economy. We know her story will inspire you, so we are sharing our interview with her and we trust you will pick up some valuable nuggets of wisdom. APJ Q1: RACHAEL, HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN IN BUSINESS AND HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE CULTURE OF REFRESH AND REJUVENATE? I have been in business now for just over five years. I purchased this business as an existing operation, which unfortunately had virtually no equity and was in dire need of repair and restoration. The business itself was running at a loss, however I could see great potential to turn things around. During the first 12 months of acquiring the business we worked on rebuilding it with the existing client base, even though many of them had left. During the second year we decided to remodel the premises including the furnishings, and we rebranded with a more sophisticated look and feel using soft, warm, flesh colours which we believed would be more inviting (previously the theme was blue and white.) Additionally, we extended our services by introducing new modalities to expand our client demographic. In terms of culture, we are about nurture and treatment excellence. We offer a variety of massage and body treatments through our spa division and grooming services, such as waxing and threading, hand and foot

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treatments, lash and brow enhancement and spray tanning. Additionally, we also offer high-end skin and age-management treatments including IPL, Fractional RF, Skin Needling, Ultrasound and Cavitation. In essence, we are a one-stop shop for nurturing and wellness treatments, grooming and skin improvement treatments. The only thing we do not offer is injectables.

APJ Q2: SINCE LAST YEAR WHEN COVID-19 FIRST STRUCK, HOW HAVE YOU BEEN IMPACTED AND WHAT CHANGES HAVE YOU IMPLEMENTED IN YOUR BUSINESS? Here in Adelaide our lockdown lasted 12 weeks. This was an extremely stressful period for both the business and our staff. Some of our girls were not entitled to JobKeeper and the lack of income was very difficult for many of them. I would regularly phone and talk to them to offer my support and encouragement, however it was very painful for all of us. In order to continue to bring in revenue we expanded our online store and we also connected with a coffee shop nearby that allowed us to establish a little section and sell our skincare and our vouchers. This was useful because it enabled us to access more clients and trade on a one-on-one basis and promote our products and services. We were also allowed to display a promotional banner. Being just before Mother’s Day we also included other consumables such as Pure Fiji skin and body products, as well as candles and Mother’s Day gift packs, which were promoted at the coffee shop, the spa and online. At the spa, we were only allowed to be open at certain times just for clients to visit and pick up products - we were not allowed to perform any treatments. We also changed our software provider to Kitomba, which gave better features to communicate with our clients.

quite disruptive. We are also experiencing last minute cancellations due to adverse reactions from the vaccine, or as a result of job losses of either our client, or their husband. APJ Q3: HAVE YOU WITNESSED ANY ADVERSE REACTIONS BOTH FROM VACCINATED AND NON-VACCINATED CLIENTS AND HOW ARE YOU ADDRESSING THEM? Yes, we are seeing some reactions, but we take appropriate precautions and recommend that our clients wait until they complete both their vaccination shots and postpone their treatments for four weeks to allow their immunity to stabilise, especially prior more invasive procedures such as IPL, skin needling, or microdermabrasion and even waxing. Most clients are happy to comply, however, in the event that some are not prepared to wait, APAN has issued us with a DISCLAIMER statement to protect us from any liability. With both vaccinated and non-vaccinated clients, the combination of mask-wearing and stress is also impacting the skin with rashes and inflammation. I regularly receive calls from clients telling me, “Rachael, something is happening to my skin.” These changes need to be appropriately addressed and our focus is to restore the skin’s microbiome and skin barrier function.

Once we opened after the extensive lockdown, it truly felt like Christmas. The rush of our clients returning and their genuine appreciation to be back, was very heartwarming and very emotional for my team and me to witness. In terms of recent challenges that we are experiencing, there are several. With the unpredictability of lockdowns, we have had several formals and wedding packages cancelled or postponed, which has been

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APJ Q4: HAVE YOU DETECTED ANY CHANGES IN THE AREA OF STRESS AND MENTAL HEALTH CONCERNS WITH YOUR STAFF AND CLIENTS AND HAVE YOU IDENTIFIED ANY SHIFTS IN THEIR PRIORITIES ON WHAT IS IMPORTANT TO THEM? With staff, the key area that we are seeing mental health issues is from the stress when they are required to reduce their working hours, as this is creating uncertainty. When it comes to clients, we are having to deal with those who are stressed and concerned as to whether all our staff are vaccinated and others who prefer that we are not vaccinated. These indeed are contentious issue however we reassure all our clients that we are implementing the strictest measures of infection control to ensure their utmost safety. In terms of coping with stress and mental health management, we are seeing a large increase in the uptake of body treatment packages, including massages. This is not just for individuals, we are also seeing a rise in couples coming together for body treatments, which is lovely to see. It is so rewarding to see that we can provide them with support and through our treatments, help to minimise the impact of stress.

APJ Q 5: AS AN APAN MEMBER, WHAT SUPPORT AND HELP HAVE YOU GAINED AND WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO YOU TO BE A MEMBER? My membership to APAN is invaluable and of great help to me. With all the changes that are happening I often need to make quick decisions as I navigate through the challenges. Through APAN I can gain prompt, expert, onthe-spot advice and this is very reassuring. Gaining advice, or even a validation that I am on the right track, gives me confidence and peace of mind to manage my challenges efficiently and with greater peace of mind. APAN is an invaluable support on so many levels. It is great to have someone to turn to for expert advice. We wish Rachael and her team every success and we are committed to stand with her as she pursues to achieve her vision and goals in her business endeavours. APJ

BUSINESS PROFILE

MEDER BEAUTY SCIENCE

PICKS UP THREE MORE INTERNATIONAL AWARDS FOR THEIR INNOVATIVE SKINCARE FORMULATIONS Meder Beauty Science microbiome skincare is a proven powerhouse in 2021. The International brand has had its most prestigious year having won multiple awards and gaining notoriety from the industry best dermatologists, doctors, influencers and skincare experts. UK Marie Claire who celebrates all brands acting sustainably and ethically, awarded Meder Cira Nights Cream, ‘Best New Skin Product’ in the market and gave Meder Red Apax Concentrate a ‘Highly Commended’ for the treatment of rosacea. Additionally, UK’s Attracta Beauty Awards which recognises professional 'tried and tested' insider knowledge on makeup, skincare and wellness awarded Meder Hydra Fill Mask the ‘Best Biodegradable Hydration Face Mask’ and Circa Nights was again recognised by Russia’s Glamour Award, having taken out ‘Best New Product” 2021. Having already shone brightly in 2020 after receiving the Prix d’Excellence award for

Vita Long Longevity Oil this is what Dermatologist and Founder Dr Tiina Meder was delighted and stated: “We are very grateful and humbled to receive such awards and hope that Meder Beauty products will gain more recognition with the aesthetic professionals of high standing”. There is no doubt Meder is an aesthetician’s dream brand. The company offers six resultsdriven professional facial treatment options designed to deliver immediate and long-term results. The Meder skincare range leads the way in pre and probiotic scientific formulations. They encompass microbiome-friendly skincare, cruelty free, non-toxic and no animal-derived ingredients that are effective and safe to use even during pregnancy. Their superior quality and efficacy are rapidly gaining international recognition as the trusted brand for both purity, safety and results. Taking a closer look at Best New Skin Product Award Circa-Night, the first ever biohacking night cream mimicking eight-hours of healthy sleep! We all know the effects that a sleepless night can have – from the inability to concentrate, to the lacklustre appearance of your skin. Thankfully Meder Beauty’s Circa-Night Cream helps fight against the negative effects of sleep deprivation and stress. It’s enriched with natural soy peptides that are known for stimulating the production of type I collagen in skin cells, which is usually one of the first to be affected by lack of sleep. The night cream is suitable for all skin types and ages, simply use before bed for a refreshed look in the morning. Trust us, your skin will thank you for it. APJ MEDER BEAUTY SCIENCE 0466 338 844 admin@mederbeautyscience.com.au mederbeautyscience.com.au

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STAR PERFORMER

GIVING YOUR CLIENTS’ SKIN THE COMFORT IT NEEDS THIS SEASON WE ALL KNOW THAT THESE PAST SEVERAL MONTHS have been a roller coaster ride for our businesses and our wellbeing. If you have just reopened again, your clients have been so eager to see you and have their skin in your caring hands. Some clients may be keen to get straight back into their advanced treatments that they have been missing. However, we need to be mindful of so many factors we have been facing over the last several months. Consider the following: Your clients will have been exposed to very different factors that are not their usual: the constant mask wearing, working from home, stresses that lockdown may have imposed on them (both mentally and financially) and how vaccination may affect their responses to treatments. Stress, inflammation and vaccinations can tax our entire body and cause our skin to be extra sensitive, or even just sensitive to those who normally tolerate any treatment well. Any vaccination generates a massive boost in your immune system so that it can build a defence mechanism against the virus we are targeting. Therefore, we must be mindful of how our clients may respond different to our treatments. A key focus as we start treating our clients again this season, and as our clients think of their gift giving, is to be gentle and

APJ 42

comforting. We will need this more this year. For this exact reason, one of our holiday packs this year from Dermatonics is the Comfort Skincare Pack. Just what our skin needs to help nourish it back to better health by helping to repair the skin barrier and help soothe and calm inflammation. A key feature of Dermatonics is that we formulate mainly with supercritical fluid extracted active ingredients. What this does for your actives is help remove impurities and contaminating chemicals to provide ultra-pure and active ingredients for your client’ skin. This is great when we are wanting to eliminate as many things as possible that may irritate our clients’ skin. Our carefully curated holiday pack includes two of our top selling products: our #1 selling Nourishing Face Oil and our Beauty Elixir. Our Nourishing Face Oil is beautiful for hydrating and soothing the skin and features our unique ingredient to the Dermatonics® range – Curcuma xanthorrhiza. This unique species of the Curcuma family (also referred to as turmeric) has been demonstrated to have very high anti-inflammatory activity, which is central to helping calm and soothe the skin. This face oil has often been referred to as ‘liquid gold’ and a ‘game changer’ for the skin, and clients often fall in love with it as soon as they experience it. Our Beauty Elixir is the #1 selling daily moisturiser in the Dermatonics range for many reasons. It absorbs beautifully into the skin, leaving the skin hydrated and matte. It is packed with numerous natural active ingredients that help boost collagen and antioxidant levels and is excellent for sensitive skin, including rosacea-prone and eczemaprone skin. We’ve then topped this trio off with our Revitalising Eye Cream which helps nourish the delicate eye area and is especially effective at helping with under eye dark circles. A beautiful trio for your clients and their loved ones this holiday season, to help compliment your treatments and comfort their skin. So do remember to have fun seeing your clients again this season and enjoy nurturing and comforting their skin. APJ DERMATONICS® is proudly Australian-made, clinical exclusive and results-driven formulations. 02 9188 8819 info@dermatonics.com.au dermatonics.com.au

Are you searching for that amazing, Australian, results-driven skincare range for your business? Australian Made Clinic exclusive Flexible opening orders Results-driven formulations Formulated by Medical Scientists Packed with ultra-pure natural actives @dermatonics_skincare @dermatonics dermatonics.com.au

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APJ 43

COSMETIC MEDICINE

Frequently Asked Questions About Dermal Fillers Dr Giulia D’Anna DERMAL FILLERS ARE ONE OF THE most popular and in-demand procedures in appearance enhancement. Whether you are performing the procedures as a qualified medical practitioner, or recommending the procedure to your clients, it is useful to know the correct answers. Here Dr Giulia D’Anna shares with us some frequently asked questions about these procedures and reveals risks and strategies on how to avoid them: WHAT ARE DERMAL FILLERS? As a brief description, dermal fillers are an aesthetic based gel that is injected into any area of the face to enhance or reshape it where volume is lost. Dermal fillers are specifically made for the enhancement of feature reducing folds and/or wrinkles. Typically, in Australia, dermal fillers are made of Hyaluronic acid (HA). HA is a naturally occurring sugar chain found in our skin that gives our skin plumpness and attracts water to the skin, creating hydration. Our naturally occurring HO will change over time as our body modifies or breaks it down with enzymes as part of our metabolic processes, this can lead to sagging of the skin and folds that never used to be there.

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The HA in dermal fillers is made in a laboratory and is not animal derived (NASHA). WHAT QUESTIONS DO PATIENTS GENERALLY ASK ABOUT DERMAL FILLERS? Some of the most frequent questions that I get asked include: •

What is involved in this treatment?

•

Will lip filler hurt? Do you use numbing cream or do you use more than that?

•

How much filler will II need? Is the filler listed/approved with the TGA?

•

How long with the filler last?

•

What are the risks?

•

Is there any downtime? For example, if there is bruising or swelling, how long will it last?

•

What are the costs?

•

Who will do the treatment?

I do not consider any of these questions too simple, rather they show that the patient is engaging in a frank and honest consultation with me.

patient see the results take shape and less dramatic to friends and family that are often in the dark about procedures that are taking place.

However, below I have selected to present my answers to some of the more technical questions I am asked:

CAN FILLERS MAKE THE SKIN SAG? Improperly placed filler or too much filler can add weight to the face, where we just don’t want it. An area that often gets overtreated can be the under-eye area, the jowl area along the jawline and also nasolabial folds. If a little too much filler is used in these areas, particularly if the skin is thin and stretchy, the filler will weigh the skin down and create more folds, as the skin stretches to accommodate the filler. A great cosmetic injector should be able to recognise this and avoid treating these areas or direct the patient to undertake a supportive skin treatment first.

WHAT AREAS OF THE FACE CAN DERMAL FILLERS BE USED? Almost any area of the face can be treated. This includes the lips, nasolabial folds, cheeks, temples, jawline and chin. However, for all cosmetic injectors, it is important that we remain within our scope of practice. So, the most commonly performed and requested treatments are the lips and perioral region. Along with the general skin treatments we do, dermal filler can really add to the results we achieve and finish off the lips, jawline and chin position where other options are not viable or suitable for the patient. IS GETTING DERMAL FILLERS PAINFUL? Most fillers have anaesthetic included, which helps to eliminate discomfort. An option that works really well for my patients is with the use of a cannula which helps to reduce bruising and discomfort markedly. A cannula is able to weave its way around the face, under the skin, reducing the needle for multiple needles. Medical grade numbing creams can help reduce discomfort around the face, along with the use of ice to reduce sensations. However, I find that when using a cannula, the treatment is very comfortable and I say this as both an injector and someone who has herself received treatment too. Lip enhancement, on the hand is an entirely different story. I highly recommend and always use complete dental anaesthesia to numb my patients prior to lip enhancement. This area is incredibly sensitive and creams or distracting vibrating tools just do not cut it. With dental anaesthesia, my patients do not feel anything at all. I believe that this gives them a comfortable experience, but also enables me to do a better job as my patient is at ease. I find this also reduces the risk of bruising as it eliminates the need to wince or move around in pain. Once they try this way, they will never go back to cream! WHAT RISKS OR COMPLICATIONS CAN OCCUR WITH DERMAL FILLER? The most common risks are discomfort or pain, bruising and swelling. These risks are often minimal, transient, but also sometimes unavoidable. Sometimes some fillers create lumps and bumps under the skin or in the lips. If dealt with early – usually within a week of filler placement, they can be manipulated by the cosmetic injector and they will easily dissipate. A much more serious risk, but also much less common, is vascular occlusion. Vascular occlusion is the medical term for a blocked blood vessel. If you are injecting dermal filler, you should understand the anatomy of the face intimately and also the best techniques to avoid this complication, but also how to deal with this serious complication should it occur. This also includes not placing too much filler in any one area in one sitting. Finally, the most serious of risk is blindness. This has occurred in Australia a couple of years ago. There are some high-risk ones on the face and some risky techniques. All injectors should only ever practice within their scope of training and know when to refer a patient. This includes treatment is high risk zones, as well as patients that have a history of previous surgery. HOW LONG DOE IT TAKE TO SEE RESULTS? Dermal filler results are immediate, but can sometimes be magnified with swelling. The best time to truly assess the outcome is about 14 days after treatment where the tissues have settled, hydration is improved and any swelling or bruising has resolved. Often, I stage treatment. In other words, where there are multiple areas to treat and multiple fillers required, I will do sections of treatment at a time to slowly reach my end result. This helps my

It is really unfortunate when I see a new client who has had a previous bad experience with filler. Invariably this is because the filler has been placed inappropriately, or far too much fill has been used by their last cosmetic injector. Dermal filler can be a brilliant treat that looks natural and enhances the features when the right technique is used. It is a real shame when the confidence of the patient is lost as a result of a bad experience. ARE DERMAL FILLERS SAFE? Dermal fillers are safe when you understand anatomy, have the right equipment and protocols in place, understand your patients’ wishes and has a thorough understanding of complications and how to deal with them. Minimising risk by staying in the safe injecting zones and within your scope of practice, are all important. No medical or cosmetic injectable procedure is without risk. It is important that those risks are discussed, along with other options. Dermal fillers used should be listed with the TGA, who research all drugs used in the Australian market. Their policies on approval are among the strictest in the world. This exhaustive process is important to keep the public as safe as possible, when the drug reaches the approved status. Off-label treatment must be in accordance with accepted standards of treatment, where there is peer reviewed research and journal articles to support their use, for example, the use of a cannula is considered off-label as the delivery method of the dermal filler is alternate to that supplied with the dermal filler. The patient must be informed of this. ARE THERE ANY SIDE EFFECTS TO FILLERS? The most common side-effects are swelling, bruising and tenderness. These are transient and will resolve quite quickly. Sometimes small lumps can form in the filler after placement, and these are easily manipulated and removed if your injector reviews the treatment a week later. There are ways of reducing these side effects, and the injecting practitioner must be across these techniques. HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU GET DERMAL FILLERS? To ensure an optimal and long-lasting result, a top-up treatment is sometimes recommended 6-12 months after the initial treatment. However, there is no real time line or guideline, as it varies so widely from area to area, and person-to-person. The cosmetic injector will be able to give some kind of guideline as to the expected lifespan. As a general rule of thumb, lip filler lasts around 4-6 months, and cheek filler lasts around 12-18 months. But often the trigger for re-treatment will be when the patient sees that the volume created is starting to fade. I would recommend reassessment with a regular review visit, every six months, to maintain beautiful results. APJ

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STAR PERFORMER

PHYT’S

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and softening properties, it also promotes the look of a healthy, clear, rejuvenated skin with enhanced radiance, while reducing the appearance of premature wrinkles and fine lines.

Additionally, these compounds help to minimise the appearance of pores, boost the skin's repair function and increase the production of hyaluronic acid. Phytoestrogens also suppress sebum production to decrease breakout activity and offer an overall calming effect on the skin.

Borage oil: Borage oil is valued for its high gamma linoleic acid (GLA) content. It acts like a hormone in the body, helping reduce inflammation associated to skin diseases and cardiovascular issues. Borage oil is said to have the highest GLA content compared with other carrier oils. When it comes to the skin, it is highly effective in improving elasticity, combat dryness and reinforces the barrier function, thus preventing dehydration. It is also rich in essential fatty acids.

Phyt’s Phytonage is a luxuriously rich firming cream that calms and minimises the symptoms of hormonal imbalance on the skin, such as flushing and sensitivity, especially across the cheeks and nose. It achieves this through the purity and expertly formulated combination of potent actives, highly effective for soothing inflammation and hormonal balance.

Soybean Extract: Genistein, an isoflavone found in soybeans, makes this extract a powerful ally with pre and post-menopausal skin. Genistein has been recently confirmed as an ideal natural selective oestrogen receptor modulator (SERM). Researchers have explored the mechanism by which Genistein delays skin ageing and it was found that it significantly increases skin thickness.

HOW DOES PHYT’S PHYTONAGE WORK? We know that oestrogen affects the skin’s structure, and low levels of this hormone are connected to skin ageing. Oestrogen receptors have been detected in the skin. Studies confirm that applying compounds that mimic oestrogen can provide support and effectively treat ageing skin. Phytoestrogens mainly derived from natural plants, are excellent in restoring skin balance for menopausal skin. Their micro-structure allows them to easily be absorbed with a delivery system already built into receptor sites in the dermis and epidermis of the skin. In recent years, phytoestrogens have become a research hot-spot in the fight against skin ageing. Phytoestrogens are found in the reproductive parts of plants such as yucca root, soybean, clary sage, flaxseed, red clover and grape extracts.

Clary Sage: For centuries, clary sage essential oil has been revered for its benefits to women’s health. Clary sage oil is oestrogenic and can significantly balance female hormones, especially during menstruation and menopause. Clary sage essential oil contains an ester called linalyl acetate. Essentially, this powerful compound works to reduce skin inflammation, heal the epidermis and soothe the skin.

Hydration is another factor that needs to be increased for skin firmness and elasticity. Hyaluronic acid can help increase hydration levels as it is a water-binding agent that helps to capture and retain moisture levels in the skin, so the addition of hyaluronic acid is a great way to achieve an instant skin plumping effects. Other ingredients in Phytonage include: Evening Primrose: The primary chemical constituents of evening primrose oil are Linoleic Acids (Omega-6), y-Linolenic Acid (Omega-6), Oleic Acid (Omega-9), Palmitic Acid, and Stearic Acid. Each one of these acids are proven to help slow the look of ageing by sustaining skin elasticity and softness. Evening primrose oil is an ideal ingredient in formulations for mature skin. With astringent

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Sunflower oil: Sunflower oil is rich in vitamin A and vitamin E, which help in promoting skin health. These vitamins act as antioxidants. Sunflower oil is an excellent source of linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid with regenerating and restructuring properties. The linoleic acid in sunflower oil makes it helpful in protecting skin against bacteria and germs. Studies also show that sunflower oil can improve skin hydration and maintain the integrity of the skins outer layer. Additionally, Phytonage also contains vanilla extract, which is rich in polyphenols to help stop oxidation of proteins and lipids in the skin, vitamin E (tocopherol) for its antioxidant properties, lavender for its relaxing and soothing properties and essential oil of Ho wood, which is rich in cinnamomum camphora, also known as camphor laurel which is a natural anti-inflammatory. APJ PHYT’S PHYTONAGE is a luxurious cream that offers hormonal balancing properties as well as incredible skin benefits. PHYT’S 1300 143 537 | 0416 143 537 | orders@phyts.com.au

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PERSONAL DEVELOPMENT

Why Significance is an Essential Element of True Success Tina Viney

AS A BABY BOOMER I come from the school of thought that I call the A-frame leadership style. In this style of leadership, the focus is predominantly based on two frames - structural and political frames and it is top-heavy. Here is what I mean: Structural Frame leadership style focuses on developing systems, structures, metrics, goals, and processes. An organisation is viewed much like a factory and some of the highest priorities include efficiency, excellence, and quality. Their whole energy is focused on their identity and refinement of the business. Political Frame leadership style focuses on developing strong opinions with regards to standards and beliefs. Anything political often has a negative connotation, the truth is that every organisation has a political component to it. Any time a group of people attempt to be organised in some fashion and there are differences of opinions combined with a limited number of resources, political behaviour will arise. The question is not whether organisations will have politics but rather what kind of politics they will have. While these elements are important to the success of a business, they are insufficient in making that business or its leaders, truly significant. So, why is significance important? THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SUCCESS AND SIGNIFICANCE I am sure we all know a lot of people who believe they are successful because they have everything they want. They have added value to themselves. However, the difference with significance, is that its focus is on adding value to others - and you can’t have true success without significance. Over the years I have studied the elements of success, not just for my own benefit, but also in helping me advise others who seek my guidance. And after studying strategies for success in business, I have come to understand that success is based on knowing your purpose in life, growing to your maximum potential and acquiring financial freedom. The question is, once you have learned something, do you have the heart to share it with others, or do you hold it for yourself? Success is indeed a journey, but if you stop at adding value to yourself, you miss the rewards of significance, history has shown us that. Let’s look at two examples:

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Aristotle Onassis – considered one of the world’s wealthiest men. Onassis was famous as the most successful shipping magnate of all time who established the world’s largest shipping fleet. In his lifetime he also launched his own international flight carrier known as Olympic Airlines. He purchased and owned his own idyllic island and through his many commercial ventures he became extremely wealthy. While his focus was to become highly successful and wealthy, (which he achieved), he did not however achieve significance. Onassis died a wealthy, but unhappy man. Today, there is little left to remind us of anything that would be considered as his on-going legacy. Now let’s look at Princess Diana. Her trademark was her care and compassion of others. She was not afraid to shake hands, or even hug those with terminal or contagious illnesses, such as leprosy and HIV AIDS and even went into harms way, such as her visit to Angola where she walked amongst the landmines. We have all seen the photographs of Princess Diana wearing protective clothing and equipment, as well as her meeting landmine survivors that raised the profile of the work being done to clear landmines around the world. Her untimely death in August 1997 came only a few months before the United Nations Mine Ban Treaty — a legally binding prohibition on the use, stockpiling, production and transfer of landmines — was opened for signature. Since then, 164 countries have become parties to the agreement, which is informally known as the Ottawa Treaty. Princess Diana lived a life of significance, because she used her influence to create awareness and create a better world not just for herself, but for others. While she has also passed away, her legacy is very vivid in our minds. Here are a few of my observations about the journey to significance: *The journey takes time: This journey to significance is a process that requires patience and commitment. Success is usually the steppingstone to significance. There has to be a certain amount of success in people’s lives before they are willing to take the step to significance, where they ask themselves, “What else is there in life beyond professional and monetary success?” *It requires that we allow ourselves to be taken out of our comfort zone: Significance is not attainable in a natural way. You

So why is it so rewarding for me to add value to others? I truly believe this is because it is my calling in life. It is an amazing feeling knowing that I have helped someone to become more productive, continue to grow in their personal development and their business and subsequently provide employment for others. What an incredible reward! Nothing is more satisfying. Here are a couple of things to consider moving you from attempting to be a success, to thriving in significance: Be sincere: Having a desire to be genuine with others should come from the heart. If what we do only comes from our head, it can easily be seen as self-motive-based and most likely be questioned. Authenticity matters: Successful people “try.” There’s nothing wrong with trying, but significant people “are,” meaning they embody their values and are genuine in their motives to support the good of others. Being our authentic selves allows for security and transparency. Here are some areas to be mindful of: 1. Care with intentionality and purpose Attaching purpose with intentionality can come across as manipulation if it isn’t done with extreme care and the right motives. Intentional care with focused purpose to benefit others makes your actions significant. don’t wake up one day and say to yourself, “I’m significant.” Significance is not planned through ambitious objectives. It is birthed out of compassion to serve others by giving yourself away. Think also of Mother Teresa, she gained significance from a life dedicated for the good of others which took time, selfabandonment and risks. Significance requires that we are prepared to venture into uncomfortable territory. However, once significance is sensed, nothing else will satisfy. You love what you do because you believe that it matters. Here are a few more comparisons to consider between success and significance: Motives: The motive of success may be selfish or self-serving, however the motive of significance is never selfish as the two are incompatible. When you help others, you also help yourself, but when you first help yourself, you may not help others. Influence: With success, my influence is limited, but with significance my influence is unlimited. Here is an interesting quote that illustrates the power of significance: “When you influence a child, you influence a life. When you influence a father, you influence a family. When you influence a leader, you can influence a community.” Time: Success can last a lifetime; significance can last several lifetimes. People who desire significance value time. They evaluate what they do with their time, and they invest their time wisely. Renowned psychiatrist M. Scott Peck and author of The Road Less Travelled once said, “Until you value yourself, you won’t value your time. Until you value your time, you will not do anything with it.” Focus: Success asks, “How can I add value to myself?” Significance asks, “How can I add value to others?” The former considers “What can others do for me?” The later considers “What can I do for others?” Reward: If I pursue success, my joy is the result of my success; if I pursue significance, my joy is the result of others’ success. Very frequently I’m asked what motivates me and I can tell you, I crossed the line a few years ago where the success of other people became the higher priority for me than my own success. I can honestly say, I owe the success of what I do to the fact that I place the wellbeing of our members and the industry above any monitory gain and I will not have it any other way.

2. Never underestimate the simple things Significant means something is weighty and highly meaningful, but if we ignore the simple things included in the weight of life we can come across as inauthentic. Know that everyday things are embedded in significance and paying attention and taking action through simple tasks can change the game. Things like showing a staff member that you care when they are under pressure by making them a cup of coffee or tea, or sending a client a hand-written birthday card or a Thank You card in appreciation for referring a friend to you. While these may be small and simple actions, they demonstrate our humanity and genuine care for others beyond “what’s in it for me”.

THE IMPORTANCE OF THE HUMAN FACTOR When it comes to business, especially with our service-based industry, we are far less like factories and a lot more like families. While we need to have structure and systems in place for efficiency, this should not be at the cost of allowing for the personal and professional development of people – individuals who bring their ambitions, insecurities, biases, and humanity with them to work every day. Another question to ask ourselves is “how does success look like for me, and does that also include making a significant contribution to the wellbeing of the people I interact with, both personally and professionally?” Another question to consider: “When my time on this earth is over what will I be remembered for, and have I contributed to making this world a better place because I have lived and influenced positive change in others and in my community?” While wealth can give us a level of comfort, once we leave this world we can soon be forgotten. But living a life of significance, our influence can continue to live through the lives of those whose knowledge and values we have helped shape, and through their lives our legacy will continue. APJ

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SKIN

THE CHANGING LANDSCAPE OF SKIN MANIFESTATIONS An interview with Gay Wardle THERE IS A GREAT DEAL OF EXCITEMENT REPORTED as clients are keen to return to their salons and clinics after extended lockdowns and resume their treatments. However, on a regular basis we are hearing on-going concerns with major skin changes – everything from rashes, swelling, inflammation, dry skin and skin peeling.

behind the ears, this is most likely coursed by the irritation from the ear loops. This friction may also cause inflammation and keratinisation from a pre-existing problem, such as psoriasis.

At a recent discussion with Gay Wardle – well-known as the queen of skin consultation – we asked her to share some advice on both what to look for and precautionary measures that need to be put in place prior to resuming high-end treatments.

We also need to consider the quality of the oxygen that we are breathing and the impact this will have to our cells. Poor quality oxygen creates so many issues and skin conditions.

APJ 1: While businesses are looking forward to getting back to work, especially those who have incurred extended lockdowns, such as NSW and Victoria, there is a great deal of concern by both business owners and practitioners in general about the changes they can anticipate in their clients’ skin. What should they be looking for in terms of skin manifestations? From your experience what have been your observations? We are seeing a lot of changes with the skin barrier. The barrier can be severely compromised by extensive mask-wearing. This is because constantly wearing a mask will increase humidity and temperature to the area that is occluded by the masks. Our breath that we expel is warm and it becomes trapped between the skin and the mask,causing an increase in humidity. Consequently, sebum secretion is increased, there is a change to the skin’s microflora and added to this is the issue of follicular occlusion. There is also an issue with the friction and pressure of the masks causing further irritation. Some of the more common problems that I have noticed are skin rashes and acne, dryness and peeling, erythema skin irritation and itchiness. Clients have even said they have felt pain and tingling when they have had to wear the mask for several hours. It is also interesting to note that the metal on the mask that covers the nose area can create mechanical irritation making that area itchy and red. I have even seen more evidence of contact dermatitis

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More people are suffering from anxiety and depression, because of this we are seeing more pigmentation, skin ageing and acne.

We also need to carefully exam gut health, as gut bacteria does influence our skin bacteria and will have an impact on T-cells that form part of the skin’s immunity. APJ 2: While many clients are keen to get back into their skin rejuvenation treatments, such as Radiofrequency, dermal needling and other skin tightening treatments, what precautionary measures should skin therapists undertake and what treatments should they introduce to help strengthen the skin’s immunity as a preliminary measure? I would recommend that a good place to start will be to examine the issue of skin immunity and start by addressing any deficiencies found in the skin as a result of compromised immunity. We will be seeing many different changes on our clients’ skin and while it would be easy to reach for a laser or IPL, or even needling, we may need to start with a nurturing treatment to rebuild the skin in areas where it has been compromised. First things first, look for symptoms of a compromised barrier function – rashes, inflammation, irritation etc. Lymphatic drainage is a MUST and again, look at gut health. We need to think differently about how we go about our treatments now, especially if we are going to create inflammation in our effort to stimulate and rejuvenate the skin. In doing so is the skin healthy enough to recover quickly or is it compromised so recovery may be hindered, and this could lead to other complications. APJ

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SKIN TREATMENTS

THE COMPOSITION AND USE OF SHEET MASKS Jacine Greenwood-Drummond IF YOU WALK DOWN THE COSMETIC ISLE OF ANY DEPARTMENT STORE OR PHARMACY you will find a section dedicated to facial sheet masks, as they are the latest trend. They promise an instant lift or enhanced hydration and are considered a simple way to soothe and refresh the skin.

3. Cellulose 4. Paper 5. Cocoa Fibers

Sheet masks vary in price from $3-4 to $20-30 dollars. When examining the cost factor, it all comes down to what is in them, as their ingredients can vary significantly. In this article Jacine Greenwood-Drummond discusses their formulations from the composition of the sheet to the serums they contain. If you are selling sheet masks in your clinic, this article will enlighten you as to why there is such a price variation and how to gain the most benefit from these masks. Sheet masks have been a growing trend in the Asian Beauty world for several years. If you’re new to this style of treatment, you may be wondering what the fuss is all about and how they work. The best sheet masks are uniquely designed to provide a high level of hydration and nourishment to the skin. They do this by delivering concentrated ingredients deep into the layers of the skin where they’re needed most. Sheet masks are like using an entire serum bottle on your skin in one treatment, hence the dramatic results after use. HOW THEY ARE CONSTRUCTED First, let’s look at their construction. Sheet masks are a type of mask that is made of a thin material, usually fibre-based and they are usually worn on the face for a specific time, anything from 20-30 minutes - a similar time-frame to applying a cream mask. There are five common types of materials used in sheet masks. These are: 1. Silk

Silk sheet masks are composed of silk fibres. They are much finer in thickness and dry out much easier on the skin. They are almost transparent when on the skin. Biocellulose masks are the gold standard with sheet masks. Delivering more essence or extract into the skin for superior results. Biocellulose masks have different grades, with only one on the market attaining the OEKO-TEX Standard 100 which is gentle enough to be used on infants. Biocellulose masks reduce sebum by over 65% but also increase hydration by over 50%. WHAT ARE THE PRODUCT CLASSES? A product class is a group of different articles categorised according to their intended utilisation. The various product classes differ in the requirements they need to fulfil and by the limit values that are applied. There are four product classes of which only one or two are relevant to sheet masks. Product class 1: This product class includes products for babies and has the strictest requirements and limit values. Product class 2: This product class includes products with skin contact. Cellulose is a polysaccharide consisting of a linear chain of several hundred to over 10,000 β1-4 linked D-glucose units. The main properties of cellulose depend on the length of chain or degree of polymerisation, which means numbers of glucose units to make a polymer. Bio-Cellulose has about 800-10,000 glucose units, while cellulose from wood pulp has about 300-1700 glucose units.

2. Biocellulose Paper sheet masks are the cheapest mask. They deliver the least

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amount of essence into the skin. Paper masks can be as cheap as a few dollars, whereas biocellulose masks can cost $20 or more due to their high cost of production. Paper masks dry out quickly on the skin. Nata de coco is produced from the fermentation process of Acetobacter xylinum using coconut water media as a source of micronutrients called bacterial cellulose. This material is interesting since it is composed(network)of strong nano-fibres. WHAT YOU NEED TO LOOK FOR FROM INGREDIENTS? For sustained hydration you need to look for good quality humectants that have substantive properties on the skin. Most sheet masks that are sold in consumer stores give no more than a temporary flash of hydration with no longer term effects in the skin. A cheap mask will have Butylene Glycol or Glycerine as its main ingredient after water. Look for sheet masks that have humectants that can provide longer term hydration. Trehalose is one ingredient that is a superstar in sheet masks. It is similar to the natural moisturising factors found in the skin’s epidermis and works to hold moisture in the skin. Natural moisturising factors keep the skin barrier intact, supple and hydrated. Trehalose creates a crystal structure with water molecules which acts as a barrier and protectant. Trehalose also protects the skin from UV radiation, pollution and irritants, making it a perfect choice if an aggressive treatment such as microdermabrasion has been performed. Trehalose has also been shown to be an antioxidant and to protect the fibroblasts. This makes it ideal with sensitised skin. Sodium Hyaluronate in their smaller molecular size of hyaluronic acid, has the ability to penetrate deeper into the skin. Other humectants like Trehalose also have moisture binding properties as well as barrier repair properties, regulating the tight junctions of the skin.

and rubbing off, of the formulations so the desired therapeutic effect cannot be achieved. The idea behind the development of film-forming formulations is to develop formulations with increased substantivity against mechanical and water-based influences and improvement of cosmetic properties. Ceramides are another ingredient that will give sustained results post mask application. Ceramides will bind into the skin. The occlusion of the skin with the mask drives not only ceramides but also other actives in the mask. Ceramides provide skin softening and smoothing benefits, as well as anti-inflammatory benefits. WHERE ARE THEY BEST USED IN A PROFESSIONAL TREATMENT PLAN? In a professional treatment they are great after microdermabrasion to soothe the skin. Some sheet masks have been tested for post micro-needling as well, to boost the results. You need to use them last in a treatment as you don’t want to remove any of the residue of the sheet mask, instead it should be massaged into the skin. After removal a moisturiser should be applied to seal the solution in for deeper penetration. THE ROLE OF SHEET MASKS IN YOUR TREATMENT PLAN Sheet masks can play a major role with assisting to prevent maskne and perioral dermatitis. Most sheet masks contain humectants and soothing agents to minimise inflammation. They can be a major boost to homecare results, especially if the client is isolated or unable to attend the clinic. Providing an almost clinic-like treatment result in some instances. There are many sheet masks on the market. Look for ones that have both hydrating and barrier repair actives, as well as support the skin condition you are wanting to treat. It is important to note that improving the hydration of the skin will help all the actives to better penetrate. APJ

Polysaccharides are a premium choice for sheet masks and can be derived from several sources. It is a biopolymer that is made from sugarbuilding blocks that are easily hydrated in water, thereby creating a gel structure often referred to as a hydrogel or hydrocolloid. Alginates are one of the most wellknown marine polysaccharides prepared from brown seaweeds in the Phaeophycea family of which Macrocystis pyrifera is one of the major seaweeds for production. Alginate polysaccharides have a cooling effect on the skin as well as an intensely hydrating effect. Alginates also have a film-forming effect, meaning they bind to the skin preventing trans-epidermal water loss. Polysaccharides are the best for this as they bind the ingredients into the skin. Examples of film forming polysaccharides are Algin from seaweed and Saccharide Isomerate which can be contained from numerous sources including grains and marine microorganisms. The main problem with the application of masks is the washing

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PRODUCT INNOVATIONS

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AROMALLIANCE MASK ANTI-AGE & LIFTING Always committed to purity, high quality and performance Phyts Aromalliance Mask will deliver excellent anti-ageing and lifting results. Formulated with an abundance of nourishing, antioxidant, soothing, plumping and anti-ageing active ingredients of the highest quality including Marine Exopolysaccharides Complex and a selection of nurturing oils and essential oils, this mask offers a lifting and radiance effect from the first application! Ideal before a specific occasion, or if you just wish to look your best, this mask will quickly deliver skin-smoothing results in just 10 minutes leaving the skin firmer, fresher and radiant. Your clients will love the instant results. orders@phyts.com.au | 0416 143 537 or 1300 656 627

NEOGENESIS RECOVERY: A POWERHOUSE SERUM NeoGenesis Recovery is our hero product. It is a breakthrough serum that improves anti-ageing results, speeds the healing process, and reduces the appearance of inflammation. Abundant in our patented S²RM® technology, Recovery contains multiple adult stem cell released molecules, including potent antioxidants, peptides, and much more. NeoGenesis Recovery acts as a power booster to naturally return the skin to a healthy and radiant state. It is safe for daily use and corrects even the most damaged skin. Excellent for rosacea and acne, it enhances scarless healing, collagen production and reduces the appearance of all signs of ageing. info@neogenesis.com | www.neogenesis.com

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RESTORATIVE BARRIER RENEWAL CREAM NeoGenesis Barrier Renewal Cream is a lightweight, deeply hydrating and repairing cream that is good for all skin types, including acneic and barrier impaired skin. It is an unscented and non-greasy formula that contains all the key lipids, cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides needed to repair and renew the skin. Designed to layer on top of either NeoGenesis Light or Intensive Moisturisers containing the patented S²RM® technology, Barrier Renewal Cream “feeds” the top layer of the skin while the stem cell released molecules take a deeper dive into the dermis. Barrier Renewal Cream may be used on dry, sensitive and irritated skin. info@neogenesis.com | www.neogenesis.com

DERMATONICS SKIN REFRESH PACKS Just in time for the warm summer months and our holiday gifting season, Dermatonics has launched their perfect trio to gently refresh, detox and hydrate the skin. This Holiday Pack includes: Refreshing Foaming Cleanser (100mL) Clean the Day Away Clay Face Mask (50mL) Lemon Myrtle Mist (60mL) Reusable Spatula (to help apply our beautiful creamy clay mask) Ultra-pure natural actives, no harsh chemicals, gentle, effective and results-driven these quality products are delightful to use and will provide your client with amazing results. 02 9188 8819 | donna@sentryca.com.au info@dermatonics.com.au | www.dermatonics.com.au

CC8 CREAM FROM ISSADA Mineral makeup has never been more innovative, with pure formulas that not only won’t clog your pores but will also deliver skin-boosting effects. Issada’s CC8 Cream is a multi-tasking mineral foundation formula offering the benefits of a tinted moisturiser, colour corrector and skincare serum in one. CC8 glides on effortlessly, providing sheer coverage with skin nourishing and anti-ageing ingredients to minimise pores, pigmentation and blemishes, boost radiance, soothe and protect the skin. The natural, lightweight formula contains a nourishing blend of pure minerals, anti-ageing vitamin A, antioxidant vitamin C, Liquorice Root Extract (to even skin tone), Hyaluronic Acid (to plump and hydrate) and barrier repairing Ceramide 3, vitamin E and Olive Glycerides. 07 3904 2288 | www.issada.com

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PRODUCT INNOVATIONS

ROCCOCO PEPTIDE SHEET MASK Always committed to quality formulations Roccoco has just released their PEPTIDE SHEET MASK that you and your client’s will absolutely love. Experience this award-winning sheet mask for the ultimate in hydration and healing. Infuse the skin with moisture and a cocktail of anti-irritants and flower extracts to improve barrier function, instantly volumising the skin, and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Calms irritated skin, providing sustained hydration to maintain skins youthfulness. This is the perfect product for in-clinic use as well as for home use as an effective retail product. 07 3807 1429 | www.roccoco.com

DR.ANNE-MARIE’S ORGANIC SERUMS Brightening C Serum is a true clean and green product that is Aloe Vera based and contains a complex blend of Vitamin C extracts as well as Rosehip oil, Jojoba oil, Apple fruit extract, Melon fruit extract, Beta Glucan and Marine Collagen. Teamed with Vitamin A Serum this dynamic duo can help strengthen collagen production, rejuvenate and support the skin during the summer months. Use Brightening C Serum during the day for added protection against sun-damage and apply Vitamin A Serum at night to repair and restore the skin whilst sleeping. Both these products offer excellent results used individually, as well as when combined. All Dr. Anne-Marie’s products are made in Australian, not tested on animals are vegan, cruelty-free and contains 100% Certified Organic ingredients. All key actives are of Australian origin and locally sourced. 0403 846 622 info@dramdermalcare.com.au | dramdermalcare.com.au

LIGHT MOISTURISER WITH A DIFFERENCE Designed specifically for normal to oil skin types NeoGenesis Light Moisturiser is excellent for problematic skin types, or for use during a more humid climate. Contains all the benefits of Intensive Moisturiser including patented S²RM® technology, it will protect the skin from environmental damage, restore tone and texture and reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles. This is a high-performance moisturiser with a light texture. info@neogenesis.com | www.neogenesis.com

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GETTING TO THE HEART OF YOUR LEALTH WITH L1FE CIRQUL8™ Our current situation has redefined our priorities in healthcare and wellbeing. Taking a holistic approach to health management, Jeunesse Australasia has developed an extraordinary product for optimal health called L1FE CirQul8™. L1FE CirQul8™ formulation features a proprietary blend of six cutting-edge evidence-based ingredients including, Ubiquinol, Annatto Tocotrienols, Nicotinamide, Pyridoxine, Ascorbic Acid and Zinc that have been scientifically researched to support energy production, hair, skin and nail health, cardiovascular health, immunity defense, energy and mental focus. L1FE CirQul8™ has been developed keeping in mind the power of the fatsoluble antioxidant, Ubiquinol, which is the active form of CoenzymeQ10, that is vital for supporting mitochondrial health /energy production in the cells of our body as well as defense against ‘free radicals’ damage. Ubiquinol, a vital antioxidant with more than 70 scientific studies, is the active form of CoQ10 that is found naturally in the body which starts to decline around the age of 30. Its role is to extract energy from the food we ingest and assist in powering the body’s overall energy levels as well as supporting the health of major organs, including the heart. www.jeunesseglobal.com/en-AU/l1fe-cirqul8

ACTIVE EYE CREAM 50MLS Karen Geiszler, well-known as a trainer and industry entrepreneur has recently launched her own skincare and haircare brand formulated with high quality actives that deliver results. One of her most popular products is Active Eye Cream KG available in a generous 50mls pump developed for the delicate eye area. This lightweight, nutrient-rich cream is enriched with Matrixyl Peptide Complex, Retinyl, Glycan Complex, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Lycopenes, Zinc, Green Coffee Bean Extract, Green Tea, Apricot Kernel Oil and Argan Oil. It provides skin with vital moisture to quickly enhance a youthful appearance. Active Eye Cream KG helps to energise, hydrate, and plump out fine lines. This super-advanced anti-ageing formula is ultra-light, nutrient-dense and highly absorbent, providing intensive care for sensitive eye areas. 0416 169 130 | info@karengeiszlerhairandbeauty.com.au | www.karengeiszlerhairandbeauty.com.au

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INGREDIENTS

Profiling Colloidal Oatmeal and Its Role in Soothing Skin Irritations Eva Boyd

WITH SEVERAL STATES OPENING UP following prolonged lockdowns, the feedback we are receiving is a high increase of skin rashes, sensitivities and inflamed skin. There are several ingredients that can be of value to soothe and hydrated the skin and one that I would like to focus on here is the amazing benefits of Colloidal Oatmeal. I don’t think there is a mother that would not vouch for colloidal oatmeal as it is considered one of the safest and most effective and dermatology-supported ingredients for baby rashes and you can’t get better than that for treating a delicate and sensitive skin. Colloidal Oatmeal is a known skin protecting agent. It is also known to soothe the skin while preventing dehydration, which can often happen when the skin is hot and inflamed. In general, colloidal oatmeal can be used by any skin type and condition that requires hydration, but in particular with compromised skin that is dry and prone to rashes, eczema or other inflamed skin conditions. To help soothe such skin conditions it is recommend to be used twice a day. SUPPORTING THE SKIN DURING IRRITATING SKIN TREATMENTS Colloidal oatmeal can also be used in conjunction with ingredients that can be irritating to the skin, such as peels such as alphahydroxy acids and retinoids, to help minimise irritation and disruption of the skin barrier. Colloidal oatmeal is such a

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nurturing ingredient that it can be compatible and works well with most, if not all, other ingredients. WHAT IS COLLOIDAL OATMEAL? According to dermatologist doctor Nava Greenfield, colloidal oatmeal is ground oatmeal, which is then placed in a liquid medium for better application and absorption into the skin. Studies show that colloidal oatmeal can function as a cleanser, moisturiser, skin soother as well as a protective anti-inflammatory agent. As a skin protective agent is available in various forms (such as powders, gels, and creams) and is found in bath and shower products, shampoos, cleansers, ointments, and moisturisers. THE BENEFIT OF COLLOIDAL OATMEAL FOR THE SKIN As we know, oatmeal is a classic ingredient that is commonly used as a soothing agent to relieve itchy skin and calm irritation caused by dry skin conditions, but it also has a variety of functions. Here are some of the key benefits: •

Protects: As we are aware, one of the most important functions of the skin is to provide a barrier between the body and the external environment. There are many cases where the skin is not performing this function optimally. Some examples are if there is a genetic predisposition to eczema, or the skin is very dry from weather considerations or from the frequent use of wearing masks. This is where colloidal oatmeal can be very useful and several clinical studies have shown that it can help strengthen the skin’s barrier function.

•

Prevents trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL): According to Dr Greenfield, colloidal oatmeal works by creating a film on top of the skin's surface. After using colloidal oatmeal in studies, both the amount of water in the skin that was lost and overall skin hydration showed improvement. This is due to the fact that colloidal oatmeal contains high concentrations of starches, which contribute to its water-binding properties. Soothes irritation: Colloidal oatmeal is rich in cellulose and fibre that give it excellent emollient properties that calm redness and irritation. Dr Greenfield further confirmed that it is excellent for patients with mild-to-moderate eczema or ichthyosis as well as those with itchy skin and sunburns.

•

Anti-inflammatory properties: Thanks to the phenol it contains, colloidal oatmeal also shows antioxidant and antiinflammatory activity.

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Absorbs UV: Studies also show that the phenol in the colloidal oatmeal also may help with absorbing UV radiation.

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Cleanses: Colloidal oatmeal also contains saponins, which have cleansing properties. It also has excellent anti-fungal properties, thanks to the avenacins.

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Non-irritating: For the most part, colloidal oatmeal is nonirritating and safe for use with all skin types.

•

A common skincare ingredient: With extensive evidence of its efficacy, colloidal oatmeal is a readily available skincare ingredient and one you should look for in your formulations.

ARE THERE ANY SIDE EFFECTS OF COLLOIDAL OATMEAL? While relatively uncommon, on rare occasions some may experience stinging or irritation. While oatmeal allergies are not common, they can occur and manifest as blotchy, itchy or irritated skin. Dr Greenfield also indicated that there is always a possibility that the skin could react poorly to a new exposure, but the source of the reaction could be harder to determine. "Although some of these concerns are valid, be careful to check the ingredients of the product because your skin may actually be reacting to a preservative in the product, which is common, and not the colloidal oatmeal," says Dr Greenfield. "So sometimes you need to tease out what part of the product is causing the reaction, and it may not be very obvious." To test out how your skin might respond to a product, Dr Greenfield recommends conducting a patch test on the inside of your forearm. “Apply a small amount of the product in that location twice daily for five days," she recommends. "If no reaction occurs, it's probably a safe bet that the rest of your skin will tolerate it." In general, she suggests avoiding use if you have contact allergies to multiple allergens and recommends switching to a product that is hypoallergenic instead. APJ

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TREATMENTS

Why your eyes need an

Eye Cream Tina Viney

WHEN MEETING SOMEONE FOR THE FIRST TIME the quickest way to determine their honesty and intentions is to look at their eyes. As we know, the eyes are the window of the soul. Looking at grooming services you would have to agree that eyelashes, eyebrows and eyeliner would have to be the most in demand procedures. Unfortunately, while eyes are intriguing and have their charm, without appropriate care, they can also be the first to be impacted with the signs of ageing losing their lustre and their shape. One thing that the popularity of cosmetic tattooing has confirmed is that people, especially women, are happy to invest heavily to improve the appearance and beauty of their eyes and eyebrows. Characteristically, youthful eyes are bright and clear. They are usually surrounded with long, densely positioned lashes, firm skin tone and framed by well-defined eyebrows that are often bushy and in need of waxing and shaping. While cosmetically there are several makeup and cosmetic tattooing procedures that can enhance the illusion of hair-strokes and volume as they start to diminish, the skin surrounding the eye also needs special care. In this article I want to discuss the issue of eye creams and why we need them. In the age of cosmeceutical formulations, we have at our disposal amazing skincare products consisting of validated ingredients that fight the signs of ageing. While the skin around the eye area may also benefit from hydration and toning, not all cosmeceuticals are safe to use around the eyes, as some can cause irritation and blurry vision. In fact, many advance skincare formulations often recommend avoiding their use near the eyes. So, let’s take a close look at how eye creams work and what ingredients are best suited for the delicate skin around the eyes. Here are a few benefits of consistently using eye cream: 1. Eye cream helps prevent common signs of ageing Dull, tired, and crepy-looking skin happens for a variety of reasons, but two big culprits are dehydration and

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environmental stressors. A specially formulated eye cream packed with hydrating ingredients can help protect the delicate skin around the eyes. 2. It can lessen the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles Antioxidant and vitamin protection can also help to soothe and revitalise the skin, resulting in the diminished appearance of wrinkles and expression lines. 3. It minimises the look of puffiness Puffiness that comes from fluid build-up can be caused by sleep deprivation, allergies and loss of skin elasticity, due to chronological and environmental ageing. The best eye creams have ingredients that reduce these visible signs of fatigue helping to tone the skin. 4. Minimise the appearance of dark circles Eye creams with ingredients to lighten and brighten the skin can help boost and improve skin texture. 5. Eye cream delivers tailor-made hydration The thin skin around the eyes needs a specialised kind of hydration, which eye cream provides. It does this with just the right concentration of ingredients that won't irritate the eye, while boosting moisture. Both the texture and the composition of the formula are important with eye creams, as creams that are too heavy can melt with skin temperature and move into the eyes, causing irritation. 6. It can strengthen and protect delicate skin Thin under-eye skin is more vulnerable and prone to irritants than the rest of the face. Eye creams boast ingredients to address this concern aiming to strengthen the skin’s architecture and helping to minimise irritation and improve the skin’s appearance.

7. It soothes tired eyes Eye creams have calming, nourishing ingredients that are eyefriendly to comfort and nurture the periphery of the eyes. OTHER BENEFITS AND PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES Furthermore, massaging the cream twice daily around the eyes can help relieve stress and improve circulation both in the skin as well as soothe the eyes. Did you know that the under-eye area is one of the thinnest, most sensitive areas of the face? Frequent viewing computer screens and phones can also strain the eyes. Application of a soothing cream gently massaged into the skin can help relieve some of this stress. As the eyes are so fragile, over time this is typically the first area that loses elasticity. Think about how often your eyes move throughout the day. You blink around 10,000 times each day, and when you smile, frown, cry or squint the skin around eyes get “tugged”. Let’s not forget all the times you rub your eyes, put on and remove makeup and insert contact lenses. All these movements may contribute to the development of crow’s feet around the eyes. To further support the eyes, it is also important not to neglect wearing UV protective sunglasses. This will help minimising squinting which is known to be one of the main contributing factors to the development of crow’s feet. Studies also confirm that starting to use eye cream as a preventative measure before lines and wrinkles appear can significantly delay the signs of ageing. As the saying goes, prevention is always a better option than a cure, so don’t hesitate to promote the use of eye cream to your younger clients. INGREDIENTS TO LOOK FOR IN AN EYE CREAM When selecting a good eye care cream look for a product that is specifically formulated for the eye area. This will ensure that the pH, texture and ingredients will be compatible to the sensitive skin around the eyes and will not contribute to stinging or burning that may be the case when using a general skincare product..

Look for ingredients such as: •

Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10): Shields the skin from sun damage and decreases the risk of wrinkles.

•

Peptides: Support collagen production, so they’re ideal for thinning skin and fine lines.

•

Ceramides: Improve the strength and moisture of the skin.

•

Niacinamide: A powerful antioxidant has a brightening and hydrating effects.

•

Hyaluronic acid: Attracts water, which moisturises the skin. It also improves skin elasticity.

•

Vitamin E: Is moisturising and soothing.

•

Vitamin K: This vitamin improves swelling, circulation, and dark circles.

•

Caffeine: Decreases puffiness and dark under-eye circles.

•

Retinoids: Can reduce the appearance of wrinkles, but should only be used in the evening. Retinoids in high doses can irritate the skin, so don’t used a standard retinoid product near the eyes, it must be formulated specifically for the under-eye area.

•

Chamomile: For an anti-inflammatory effect, use an eye cream with chamomile,

•

Witch hazel: Reduce swelling and tighten the skin.

IN CONCLUSION Taking care of the eye area should be part of a daily skincare routine. Start your clients in the use of an eye cream as early as mid-teens, including it as part of their home care routine, and of course, all your clients should be recommended an appropriate eye cream for their skin type for daily use. APJ

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STAR PERFORMER

TIME FOR A GLOW-UP? ALTHOUGH AUSTRALIANS WANT THEIR SKIN TO LOOK PERFECT all year round, this desire tends to rise dramatically in summer when they shed their winter layers and begin dressing-up for the long, hot, party season. This desire normally leads to an influx of clients desperately seeking skin-perfecting treatments at clinics around the country from November onward. Yet, despite this demand, many clinics don’t have a suitable treatment to offer such clients as they typically want a Glow-Up ‒ instantly without any downtime. Yes, that’s right. In summer, more than any other time of year, clients want skin-perfecting treatments without any downtime: they don’t want to stay at home (to heal and avoid the sun) while everyone else is out enjoying themselves. Fortunately, clinics can now offer clients the perfect skin treatment – the Venus Glow.

Venus Glow can be offered as a stand-alone treatment or further enhanced with Venus’s proprietary Glow serums in a two-step process that cleanses and nourishes the skin: GlowAstra is a skin brightening antioxidant formulated with natural plant extracts and Vitamin C to enhance skin tone, texture and brightness. Key ingredients include magnesium ascorbylphosphate (a biologically active form of Vitamin C that boosts collagen production) and Panthenol (well known for its soothing properties). The serum is ideal for clients looking for a clearer, brighter, more hydrated appearance. GlowNova is an anti-ageing serum formulated to enhance the texture and resilience of the skin for a refreshed, more youthful appearance. It contains peptides known to help reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles, natural plant extracts that promote collagen production and Panthenol to reduce inflammation. The serum is ideal for clients who want a refreshed, more youthful complexion. GlowSana is a skin protecting serum that improves firmness, elasticity, and restores a youthful appearance to the skin. It is rich in antioxidants that are known to slow down the appearance of skin ageing and powerful plant extracts that provide protection from free radical damage (including Apple and Edelweiss stem cell extracts which hydrate, boost skin cell integrity and reduce wrinkle depth). The serum is ideal for clients whose primary concern is ageing skin.

The Venus Concept Glow dermal renewal system uses three modalities (a vacuum, a 360-degree rotating tip and two powerful ultra-fine jet streams) to deep cleanse the skin and leave it glowing in less than 15 minutes:

GlowClara is a calming and soothing serum that reduces redness and irritation. It contains carefully selected peptides that treat blemishes, natural plant extracts that speed healing and protect the skin with antioxidants. The serum is ideal for clients with skin concerns like rosacea, acne, and inflammation, or those that simply want their skin to look flawless

•

In fact, the Venus Glow treatment - with or without serums - is ideal for almost any client looking for an ‘instant fix’: in less than 15 minutes, they can be ready to take on the world (or at least a night on the town) with a glowing complexion and renewed confidence.

The vacuum gently opens pores by removing impurities in the stratum corneum while also micro-massaging the skin to spread nutrients released from the bloodstream.

So, if you’re looking for a new treatment to offer your clients and increase your profits, Venus Concept Glow dermal renewal system could be your perfect choice.

•

The two jet streams (each finer than an average strand of hair) spray purified water into the pores.

Like all Venus treatments, it delivers on the promise – and will help your clinic and your clients Glow-up instantly. APJ

•

The rotating tip micro-massages the skin to increase the spread of the purified water released from the jet streams and the nutrients released from the bloodstream.

Learn more about Venus Glow and Venus Serums.

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www.venusconcept.com/en-au/venus-glow.htm, gsilverman@venusconcept.com (02) 8329 0770

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BUSINESS WISDOM

Maximising the Christmas Trading Season Deb Farnworth-Wood

SUCCESS IN ANYTHING IS NOT INSTANT! It is as a result of clever and strategic planning, and there is not a better time to review and refresh your plan than now, as you prepare for Christmas and the festive season that we about to enter. Deb Farnworth-Wood knows how to ensure the success of a business. Here she shares some of her valuable tips on how to best prepare for the months ahead to ensure you achieve truly successful Christmas trading.

4. Offer VIP events in which you educate and reenthuse those higher spenders with rewards for attending.

It feels like Christmas is almost upon us - so are you ready? Here are my 12 imperatives for a prosperous Xmas trading season

7. Plan your promotions from now right through to February and Valentine’s Day. If you only plan until Christmas your January and February sales will fall short!

1. Have you outlined your staff holiday policy - between October and December it really needs to be all hands-on deck and staff holidays could cause loss of productivity hours and associated revenue? 2. Refreshers on sales techniques and product/treatment knowledge are another non-negotiable. Bring your staff focus back to not only sales target expectations but customer service goals such as client experience. 3. Encourage clients to think about new season makeup colours and seasonal changes in skincare resulting from the warmer weather – consider a “new season skincare review” campaign.

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5. Plan your holiday displays to feature your latest product offers or GWP in ways that both delight your clients and steps into the seasonal vibe, drawing the client’s attention and curiosity. 6. Stock up well - remember people are naturally more likely to buy from a well-stocked shelf and there is nothing worse than loss of sales through stock shortages.

8. Use a combination of strategies to keep your business at the front of your clients’ minds including social media, EDMs to your database and personal calls to clients. 9. Re-evaluate your consultation processes; are your staff capable and competent in the development of effective treatment plans to maximise client results? 10. Consider gift voucher and gift opportunities and refresh staff on the importance of upselling and value adding rather than discounting. 11. Offer gift wrapping but make sure it’s stunning and memorable. 12. Monitor sales targets and KPI daily - there’s only just a few weeks until Christmas. Finally, remember to also have some fun - working hard is so much easier when it’s fun too. Let’s make this season something to celebrate about. APJ

MEMBER PROFILE

AN INTERVIEW WITH

Elisabeth Hogerdijk IN EVERY ISSUE OF APJ WE LOVE PROFILING MEMBERS – both large business owners, as well as individual practitioners who would love to share their story. It is our way of honouring you and allowing other like-minded professionals and business owners to be inspired. Going by the feedback we are getting this is a popular segment that many of you love to read. In this issue we profile a long-standing member from Perth, Western Australia – Elizabeth Hogerdijk, owner of SKIN REVISION – Paramedical Skincare Clinic. Elizabeth was originally trained in beauty therapy many years ago in Holland under CIDESCO at a young age of just 19. This was in the 1060s and CIDESCO was renowned internationally as the leading training organisation with the strictest standards of training and with external examiners who would assess the students. From an early age Elizabeth developed a real passion for skin management as her primary focus. She subsequently moved to Australia in 1970 and settled in Perth, where she immediately set up her own business and has been a business owner ever since. With over 50 years of industry experience she has lived through several changes as the industry evolved and entered many phases of progress – some good and some not so good. We had a conversation recently with Elisabeth and here are her responses: APJ 1: Elisabeth, of all the treatments you perform what area do you enjoy the most and why? Helping my clients resolve their skincare issues is something that I thoroughly enjoy. What is exciting about my approach is that I never address a skin condition only by just analysing the skin’s surface – I explore other issues such as diet, nutrition, stress levels, medication and lifestyle and I also examine the overall health of the body to determine contributing factors, otherwise if we just look at the surface of the skin what we achieve is only a short-term illusion of beauty. Additionally, I also love cosmetic tattooing and gain a great deal of satisfaction with medical cosmetic tattooing. I am constantly studying and learning, seeking ways to stay up-to-date and continue to improve. APJ 2: Over the years what are some of the changes that you have experienced in the industry? I believe that today there is too much emphasis on excessive exfoliation, which in the long-term contributes to further ageing of the skin. We have also seen a huge boom in technology over the years and while they have their place, I believe that consumers are

hungry for the human touch, and there is still much that we can achieve with manual treatments using the right skincare. Overuse of technology may not necessarily be a good thing - there needs to be a balance. I believe that the pendulum is now swinging towards a more balanced approach. Since COVID-19 consumers are very appreciative of care and nurture of them as individuals, not just skincare results. As knowledge increases, clients expect us to guide them through the maize of information and educate them on their best choices. Our role now must also include mentoring our clients and educating them on a regular basis, not just perform a treatment. What I am observing is that the industry is moving in two separate areas of specialisation: Techniques that aim at grooming services, offering instant superficial beautification, such as cosmetic tattooing, lash extensions and injectables, and while these have their place, true beauty must spring from within. As the skin is the largest organ in the body it mirrors what is happening throughout the whole body. True beauty is therefore linked to our health. A healthy skin is therefore not just a topical issue, it is a reflection of the wellbeing and the health of our cellular structure, mitochondria and our immune system that supports repair and regeneration. As skin therapists today we need to take a holistic approach. It is important to examine factors that may be compromising our client’s skin treatment results and educate them on ways to support us in the results we are trying to achieve. This means reviewing lifestyle factors, nutrition and stress management. As practitioners, our education should be consistent and ongoing, if we are to gain credible and sound knowledge to pass on to our clients. We therefore need to ensure that the source of our education is reliable and scientific. APJ3: Since COVID-19 what changes are you seeing in your clients’ skin and in their overall wellbeing? I am noticing that many women are wearing more makeup to cover up issues such as rashes, dryness or inflammation as a result of stress and frequent mask-wearing. These are stressful times for all of us as a community and the skin therapist can play an important role in helping to treat these concerns as well as offer comfort and support to their clients on a human level. APJ4: Looking back at your life what advice would you give someone who want to enter this industry? This is an amazing industry with incredible opportunities to provide valuable services and care for others as well as areas to specialise in? As a profession, it can be very rewarding and satisfying. However, I would consider the most important attribute is to have a genuine care for others as your driving force. It is also important to understand that although there is a glamorous side to this profession, the most important thing you will be doing is solving problems and you will need to be prepared to do that will empathy, accurate knowledge, professionalism and dedication. If you have these qualities, you will love what you do and have a rewarding career. Despite the many years I have been in this profession I am still passionate about what I do and I love to constantly improve my knowledge and education. If I had the opportunity to do it all over again, I would not do anything differently. APJ APJ 65

BUSINESS

THE SEVEN LEADING HUMAN STRATEGIES FOR IMPROVING BUSINESS PERFORMANCE Phillip Fernandez - Leadership Coach & Winning Mindset Strategist

HOW DO YOU MANAGE EMPLOYEES AND CREATE A POSITIVE CULTURE that fosters business performance? This is a challenge shared by all businesses. Through all my years of managing people to perform and to achieve their goals and objectives, I found that apart from adopting sound business practices, the skills needed to communicate and understand human behaviour is critical in determining success or failure. RESPECT THE OTHER PERSON’S MODEL OF THE WORLD We live in a world of opinions, strong beliefs and points of view. We at times get pretty heated up on certain topics and find it difficult to understand. Having empathy towards the other person’s viewpoint and entertaining the idea that their opinions or reasons could just be another way of looking at a situation, or could be even right for that matter is worth cultivating. It all comes back to how flexible we are in addressing our ego and respecting the other person’s opinion, thoughts and beliefs. We don’t have to agree with them, but we need to respect their opinion. You see, disagreement is healthy provided it is treated with respect. If we adopt this practice in business, the consequences would be outstanding. First, we in turn will be treated with respect even if we disagree. There is a skill in not taking things too personally, but rather understand that as a leader of people, we cannot expect all our staff to like us, or even agree with all of our decisions, but as long as our decisions are made for the good of the business and the employees, we can expect to get their respect which in the long run builds a healthy culture and loyal, productive staff.

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FOR EVERY ACTION THERE IS AN EQUAL AND OPPOSITE REACTION Does this saying ring a bell? Of course, it should, as if you did physics at school, you would realise that this is Maslow’s theory of gravity. Everything that goes up must come down. In business this is critical. If you did something for someone and expected the same in return, then you are not getting the picture. It is about giving or helping others without expecting a return favour, it is about trusting your staff from day one instead of expecting them to prove themselves first before they gain your trust. If you could not trust your staff, then why did you employ them in the first place. Give them the benefit of the doubt. Be transparent and authentic with them and see them become more productive, taking ownership of their job and come to work to give it their all. CATCH THEM DOING SOMETHING RIGHT Looking at the positive in others is sometimes the most difficult thing to do. As human beings, we are more naturally inclined to look at what one did wrong, what is not right or what could go wrong. “If you climb that tree, you could fall down” or should we have said, “Take care when climbing the tree. Make sure your footing is right and just look up and focus on where you want to get to”. You see, the danger in both cases is exactly the same however, the language used in the second statement, shifts the focus and mindset towards a positive achievement. Let’s transfer this principle to the work environment and begin to see changes in the response of your employees when you ecognise the positives in them and then genuinely convey the message. On

LISTEN TO THEIR PROBLEMS, PROVIDED THEY ALSO CONTRIBUTE TO THE SOLUTIONS Just because we own a business or are a manager, does not also mean we have the answers to everything. Employees can be hasty in complaining about what is not right in a business - little stock or out of stock issues so they cannot sell products, lack of training, peers that are not pulling their weight and so affecting the team’s productivity and so on. In some cases, the business or company can fix some logistical, or system issues but there are other issues that are more complicated and requires more resources. One highly effective way for a manager is to be up front and honest about the problems and invite them to contribute to the solutions if they feel they can. This reverse role direction shows that bosses are only human and they have their problems too. By empowering your employees to contribute and to be heard can only strengthen the team culture. This will also lead to the team addressing the bigger issues, while the smaller, trivial problems will disappear. When I was running companies, my question to them was “Are you part of the solution or part of the problem?” Let’s think how we can make things work together, rather than complain and become the problem. BE TRANSPARENT, EQUITABLE AND FAIR IN YOUR DECISIONS, EVEN IF THEY ARE NOT POPULAR This is probably one of the hardest to master as it tests our own fears, confidence and judgement. It also helps us to understand that we do not need to be liked by all our employees, but rather respected, as you realise that your decisions are in their best interest and in the best interest of your business or company. Employees, particularly Generation Y that now make up a decent percentage of the workforce and in some cases are running their own businesses or companies, want to aspire to leaders that walk the talk and are fair and transparent in their business and people decisions even if they are not the popular ones. Employees do not always agree, but they should be willing to understand and respect your decisions. Ultimately, in the long run, this will also generate a healthy culture, greater loyalty and sustained employee retention. My 4Ps of Success - People, Passion, Performance and Profit. the other hand, I don’t mean that we should ignore negative behaviour and attitudes, as this is definitely not acceptable. You see a minute spent recognising a positive in a staff member will generate immeasurable return on investment. Therefore, when you do address the areas that need improvement, you will more than likely get a better response and a willingness to listen to you and to change their behaviour to meet company standards. SEPARATE THE DOER FROM THE DEED Here is another gem and that we often find it hard to manage. When reprimanding an employee on unacceptable behaviour or resolving conflict between employees it is always important to address the unacceptable behaviour or action and not the employee. We still like and believe in the employee and their abilities to perform their job role and it is vital that they can see this. But, it’s about getting the employee to take ownership of the unwanted behaviour and change it to one that is acceptable or complies with company policy. This way they will be more likely to not take it personally and you can both come to a mutual agreement in a more professional way without too much emotion moving forward. WE ARE NOT OUR BEHAVIOUR, BUT WE ARE THE PERSON MANAGING THE BEHAVIOUR As a business owner or manager of a business and if we have employees, we cannot give in to any negative or grumpy behaviour just because we are having a bad day. Yes, we are human, but your professional attitude and physiology is paramount in leading your employees and creating a happy and healthy culture.

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Phillip Fernandez Leadership Coach, Winning Mindset Strategist, Speaker, Author. 0402 213 813 www.businesswizards.com.au phillip@businesswizards.com.au

SPECIAL OFFER TO APAN MEMBERS + FREE 1 hour Leadership/Mindset/ High Performance online Zoom session (Value $300) + PLUS a copy of my best seller eBook “ Extraordinary Leadership for Everyday Managers”

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RESEARCH

SKIN PROTECTION

THIS COMPREHENSIVE SCIENTIFIC UPDATE UNCOVERS important findings and why skin protection is so important in the quest for skin improvement, regardless as to the objectives you wish to achieve. Presented by renowned dermatologist Dr Tiina Meder, it reveals some new, and often surprising findings of factors that compromise the skin’s integrity. Because of its extensive length, we are presenting this study as a two-part feature article. Here is Part 1:

A Scientific Update for Dermatologists and Aestheticians PART 1 Dr Tiina Meder

As we know, the skin is the largest organ of the human body, a barrier between our inner world and the not-always-friendly environment. The skin separates the “water-world” of the human organism from the “dry land” of the atmosphere. Protection is probably the most important skin function, and the skin provides it on many levels involving practically all other bodily systems: circulatory, lymphatic, nervous, endocrine and immune system. While we work on the skin, it is important to understand that it is impossible to regard the skin as a separate organ performing its functions in isolation, as at any given moment skin cells are involved in complex interactions with other bodily cells, including

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those significantly remote from the area of the reaction. The skin is our first and most important line of defence against harmful bacteria, viruses and fungi, toxins, irritants, allergens and even various types of radiation. When we’re talking about the skin’s protective function, we must not forget its thermoregulatory activity, as changing the skin’s temperature and activating its adaptive responses, following the change in outside temperature, is partly the skin’s job. The skin takes upon itself a large part of mechanical injuries and regeneration, which in turn is closely connected to the body’s general restorative processes.

THE SKIN’S SELECTIVE PERMEABILITY Nevertheless, despite healthy skin being able to perform its protective function and defend the body against attacks from the outside, it is not an impenetrable spacesuit and it would be entirely wrong to think of the skin as a cling film that covers the body and does not let anything in. Selective permeability of the skin is an essential part of its protective mechanism. Some agents can penetrate the skin, including its deeper layers, while others can be removed from the skin, allowing for homeostatic balance and supporting general health. The structure of the skin is well-studied, however we are still a long way away from a complete understanding of cellular interaction, regeneration and degradation. The past decade brought about many discoveries, including new facts about skin structure, however scientific data still remains to be comprehended and put into practice by dermatologists. It is entirely possible that the treatment of many skin diseases and methods of aesthetic improvement are about to change significantly. First and foremost, it is the skin’s microbiome and its role in maintaining the skin’s as well as the body’s general health that would impact skin therapy. WHAT WE LEARNT FROM THE HUMAN MICROBIOME PROJECT The global Human Microbiome Project started back in 2008 aiming to identify all microorganisms living on and inside the human body as well as their effect on human health. Until recently, the predominant opinion has been that the presence of microorganisms on the skin’s surface in most cases leads to disease or aesthetic concerns, and only in some cases is neutral. The common strategy in treating disease resulting from an infectious agent was antibacterial therapy and ultimate skin cleansing. Today, the data we have gained by studying the human microbiome, has established a connection between the state of the skin’s microbiome and the skin’s immune protection in its various forms. As it turned out, some saprophytic bacteria produce substances with antibacterial action, in particular antimicrobial peptides, suppressing the development of pathogenic microflora. Several saprophytes synthesise substances with anti-inflammatory activity, while others support the functioning of local adaptive immunity. Healthy skin microbiome in its entirety has a pronounced antiviral, antifungal and antibacterial effect, providing most of the skin and whole-body protection from various infections. This is confirmed indirectly by the fact that infectious skin diseases are accompanied by the characteristic changes in microbiome, and microbiome restoring therapy in many cases quickly leads to improvement of skin condition, disappearance of symptoms and elimination of pathogenic microorganisms. Restorative therapy for microbiome can be performed with various prebiotics, probiotics and synbiotics, which are being developed and studied in many research centres across the world. The state of microbiome depends on the skin’s water/lipid protective mantle, which is formed by the mix of sebum produced in the sebaceous glands, water and salts from the secretion of the sweat glands. The water/lipid mantle is in fact simultaneously a nutrient medium for microbiome and a chemical barrier against infectious agents which neutralises many toxins, irritants and harmful substances, allergens and pollutants. Sebum mixed with sweat softens the surface of the skin’s keratinous layer, making it softer and more elastic, retains water on the surface of the skin and reduces the activity of the surface receptors creating the sensation of comfort. THE MICROBIOME AND CELL RENEWAL The characteristics of microbiome and water-lipid mantle affect the continuous process of desquamation and cell renewal in the keratinous layer. The constant removal and replacement of worn-

out protein bricks, keratinocytes, with the surrounding lipid envelopes is essential to maintain the skin’s protective function. However, the speed and rate of the keratinous layer’s renewal also defines the extent of skin protection. A very slow renewal process leads to drying up of the surface layer corneocytes that subsequently lose the ability to retain water (this may be related to the degradation of glycoproteins and the oxidation and destruction of the lamellar lipids surrounding acaryocytes). On the other hand, too fast renewal of the skin’s keratinous layer e.g. following an injury leads to its thinning and the loss of functionality and the skin becomes irritated and too sensitive. The active function of the keratinous layer is necessary to maintain the feeling of comfort, skin health and sometimes even life preservation. The most obvious example of the latter is thermal burn: it is well known that with 50% and more of the skin burned, the probability of death reaches 15% even in a modern, well equipped and stocked up with medication hospital. Two key factors may lead to death from burns: the loss of water and electrolytes as a result of lost barrier function and the development of infection due to simultaneous bacterial contamination by several species of microorganisms. Both factors develop as a result of losing the protective function over a significant area of the skin. SKIN THICKNESS AND SKIN RENEWAL On average the skin of an adult Caucasian is about 2.1 m thick, while the thickness of the epidermis is only 0.1 mm (100µm) (Hoath et al. 1992). The keratinous layer is a multilayered (approximately 16 layers (Hoath and Leahy, 2002)) a dual-component system consisting of vertically placed corneocytes surrounded by lipid membranes. Corneocytes in the keratinous layer have no nucleus and are basically dead flat and thin squamous cells filled with keratin. The matrix between corneocytes consists of lipids in numerous lamellar layers, connected by intracellular connective components as corneodesmosomes. The barrier function of the skin is defined by all of the above, and the change in any of their characteristics, such as lipid composition or the amount of keratin, leads to the disturbance of the skin’s protection. The formation of the epidermis and keratinous layer is an elaborately coordinated process of cell proliferation, differentiation and death, allowing for ongoing tissue renewal. The end of keratinocyte proliferation launches the process of their differentiation into corneocytes and migration to the keratinous layer. The keratinocytes of the basal membrane can proliferate and differentiate, gradually moving from the basal layer to the skin’s surface. Approximately half of the keratinocytes of the basal layer migrate and continue to differentiate in the course of their movement into surface layers. This process ends with the loss of nucleus and desquamation from the skin’s surface. In the process of keratinocyte differentiation and transformation into corneocytes, the cells synthesise a large amount of protective protein keratin, while their organelles, including the nucleus, is gradually substituted by keratin fibres. Normally this process requires 6–7 weeks, however it can slow down with age reaching up to 75 days. The renewal rate can vary in the presence of various diseases, such as psoriasis (12–22 days, in some cases 3–4 days). On average in a healthy person approximately 1.15 of the keratinous layer forms in 24 hours, while the rate of the keratinous layer renewal is 14 days. The epidermis includes several constantly regenerating structures: hair follicles, sebaceous glands and interfollicular epidermis. Interfollicular epidermis, a key focus of cosmetology, is segmented structurally, functionally, anatomically and in every stratum of the epidermis the ongoing renewal process is maintained with the simultaneous preservation of structural stability. The kinetics of the epidermis includes cell birth (multiplication of proliferation), spontaneous cell death (apoptosis), programmed cell death (cornification or keratinisation) and the removal of corneocytes (desquamation).

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All these processes are localised in the various strata of the epidermis: proliferation in the basal layer, desquamation in the keratinous layer, etc and involve interaction with other skin cells: melanocytes, Merkel cells and Langerhans cells. Keratinocytes make up approximately 95% of all epidermis cells, leaving only 5% for other cells, but it is keratinocytes that constantly recognise, recycle and neutralise toxins, allergens, irritants and damaging substances. Melanocytes synthesise pigment melanin and absorb UV radiation, while immune cells recognise pre-cancerous changes in the keratinocytes and other epidermal cells and send natural killer T-cells to the affected area — the lymphocytes which are able to destroy atypical cells and pathogenic microorganisms. Curiously, epidermal cells are situated in a fairly rigorous geometrical order corresponding to the structure of epidermal units. The structure of each unit develops in the process of cell mitosis, and after that a column of cells rises from basal membrane to keratinous layer. Melanocytes and Langerhans cells are dendritic cells, and as such, they form their own units in close contact with keratinocytes. Each epidermal melanin unit, in particular, contains one melanocyte, which is associated with 36 live keratinocytes and protects them against radiation damage. Langerhans cell unit, ensuring immune protection, includes one Langerhans cell and 53 epidermal nuclear cells. This proportion is curiously stable for various skin areas. The study of the skin’s barrier properties and renewal in the presence of psoriasis uncovered the particulars of the skin renewal process which shed some light on the phenomenon of the epidermal thickening in the psoriatic patches. As it turned out, psoriasis is associated with combined disturbance of the skin’s renewal including the hyperproliferation of keratinocytes with the simultaneous decrease in their apoptosis. THE COMPOSITION OF EPIDERMAL LAYERS Each layer of the epidermis has its own part to play in protecting the skin against various kinds of damage. In the acanthaceous layer corneodesmosomes are formed, which then proceed to keep cells in a particular order in the process of further migration, maintenance and the formation of epidermal units, including the keratinous layer cells. In the granular layer, protein keratohyalin and lamellar corpuscles are synthesised to become the source of key barrier lipids of the epidermis. These granules contain the mix

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of ceramides, cholesterol, free fatty acids (most importantly linoleic acid) and enzymes, forming the key physiological barrier lipids. Finally, in the uppermost layer of the epidermis, the keratinous layer of stratum corneum - the water-lipid mantle of the epidermis is formed, including the lipids of sebum, physiological keratinocyte lipids, sweat glands secretion water and proteins and in particular, keratohyalin, filaggrin, desmoglein, desmocollin, corneodesmosin and loricrin. Lipids, adhesive glycoproteins and the above-mentioned peptides create a substrate, from which corneocyte envelopes are constructed. Moreover, in the keratinous layer peptides involucrin, retain, envoplakin and periplatin are also present. All proteins participate in the creation of the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF) maintaining osmotic balance. One of the key elements in the composition of NMF is urea, which has a pronounced water retaining ability. Other NMF components perform primarily the same function, retain water on the skin surface, and are quite numerous, among them low molecular peptides, potassium, calcium and magnesium salts, iodine compounds, some chlorides, lactic and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) as well as some sugars and free amino acids. Despite the fact that corneocytes cannot technically be considered live cells because they lack nuclei and other organelles, they still play an important part in the protective function. These dead cells create a stable structure, which physically protects the skin against mechanical damage, maintains the skin’s elasticity and softness, retains water, regulates the restoration and renewal of the barrier layer and its thickness — the latter being particularly important for protecting live skin cells from UV damage. Maintaining the skin’s acid-base balance is also a factor in the chemical protection of the skin. In the keratinous layer of the skin on the body, the pH varies from 4.0 to 5.5, the larger number being more characteristic for the areas with a predominance of sweat glands, while on the face pH in the keratinous layer of healthy skin is closer to 4.0 – 4.5. Most pathogenic microorganisms, Staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa in particular, need pH closer to 7.0 to reproduce and spread the infection. Three more key elements of skin protection depend on low pH. 1. Maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier when in contact with alkali, particularly soap.

2. Inhibiting the cascade of inflammatory reactions through inhibiting the synthesis of primary cytokines (IL-1, IL-6, TNF). 3. Maintaining the cohesion of the keratinous layer cells, as the desquamating proteases trypsin and chymotrypsin exhibit low level of activity at low pH, while with the increase of pH their activity increases as well. NEW FINDINGS ON THE SKIN’S PERMEABILITY The skin’s permeability has been the focus of research for many years. Understanding the ways some agents penetrate the skin, their characteristics and mechanical action can give us some perspective on skin diseases such as psoriasis, contact dermatitis and others. The possibility to predict and control the activity of penetration for medical drugs or cosmetic ingredients opens new prospects in the disease therapy and aesthetic correction. As it turned out, a major role in changing the skin’s permeability is played by the key lipids of the keratinous layer: ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids, linoleic in particular. All these lipids are polar, which means that they can bind both hydrophilic and hydrophobic molecules. In healthy skin the lipid balance is fairly stable: 50% ceramides, 30% cholesterol, 20% fatty acids. In young healthy skin this rate may be equimolar, 1:1:1. Among the ceramides of the keratinous layer are phytosphingosine, sphingosine, hydroxy sphingosine, sphinganine, glucosylceramides, acyl ceramides and epidermosine. In sensitive skin and patients with atopic dermatitis, the number of ceramides decreases, while the number of catabolic enzymes, which destroy ceramides, can be increased by five. The amount of cholesterol in the keratinous layer depends on its intake. Low-cholesterol diets, so popular in the developed world, as well as medication therapy lowering blood cholesterol (statins) lead to the decrease of cholesterol level in the keratinous layer and therefore to the disturbance in the skin barrier function, which can result in aesthetic concerns and skin disease. THE ROLE OF WATER IN THE SKIN Water makes up 20-35% of the keratinous layer if we’re talking about healthy skin. The water is located in-between the layers of lamellar lipids in the intracellular space, bound by the hydrophilic heads of key lipids. Approximately 10% of the keratinous layer is made up by NMF, also present in the composition of corneocyte envelopes and increasing the atmospheric moisture. The higher air humidity, the easier it is to keep the skin moisturised.

emollients can also retain moisture in the keratinous layer: castor oil, jojoba oil, glycerol, octyl and stearyl stearates, isopropyl isostearate myristate and palmitate, etc. The rate of desquamation also depends on the moisture levels in the keratinous layer: when moisture drops below a particular level, hydrolytic enzymes trypsin, chymotrypsin and other proteases lose their ability to destroy corneodesmosomes and corneocytes accumulate on the skin surface, manifesting in the development of hyperkeratosis and visible roughening of the skin, as well as the appearance of wrinkles and darkening of complexion. The skin’s moisture level is one of the key elements of its protection: well-moisturised skin is protected more effectively than dry skin or overly moisturised skin. In dry skin the natural corneocyte desquamation process and the plasticity of the keratinous layer are disturbed, followed by the deficit of barrier lipids, and the physical barrier protecting the skin from external infection, toxins and irritants is diminished or lost. Excessive moisturising can develop when unsuitable skincare is applied or excessive occlusion occurs (for example, when latex, polyethylene or rubber gloves are worn constantly) the moisture gradient on the skin surface rises and the skin’s permeability increases significantly, allowing harmful, infectious and irritating agents to penetrate into deeper skin layers. Moreover, both insufficient and excessive moisturising lead to microbiome changes, increasing the skin’s pathological condition. The chemical barrier of the skin, apart from the acid mantle includes two other groups of substances providing speedy reaction to the damage of the keratinous layer. 1.Biological response modifiers (BRM) including cytokines, growth factors and some minerals. 2, Anti-inflammatory molecules binding anti-inflammatory factors allow to reduce the intensity of inflammatory reactions associated with various types of skin injury. These are all antioxidants, certain enzymes and minerals. All antioxidants have anti-inflammatory effects of varying intensity, however not all anti-inflammatory agents are antioxidants. In Part 2 of this article, which will be featured in the summer issue of APJ, we will look at the role of skin lipids, how skin damage and injury impacts the skin and the dangers of excessive use of cosmetics including moisturisers. We will also look at certain common medicines and how they impact the skin, as well as the impact of physical and chemical pollutants on the skin. APJ

The skin’s moisture levels can also be raised with topical solutions containing water, occlusive agents retaining water on the surface, and finally the ingredients which help transport dermal water into the keratinous layer by activating the system of aquaporins. Many ingredients have this effect: glycerin, urea, PCA, honey, lactic acid, propylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, gelatin, panthenol and sorbitol. Among occlusive agents, the most commonly used are mineral oil, dimethicone, cyclomethicone, lanoline, beeswax, squalene, carnauba wax and candelilla wax. Some non-occlusive

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COSMETIC TATTOO

THE NON-SPOKEN QUESTIONS WITH COSMETIC TATTOOING CORRECTIONS Katherine McCann

WITH THE GROWING POPULARITY OF MICROBLADING AND EYEBROW COSMETIC TATTOOING training is often delivered incorrectly or inadequately, resulting in many eyebrow procedures failing to meet the mark and leaving clients seeking removal and correction. As a result, the need for corrective eyebrow procedures is increasing as an experiential rate. However, corrective tattooing procedures, whether involving eyebrows, eyeliner or lips, are a specialised area that requires the extensive considerations of several factors. In this comprehensive article Katherine McCann explores effective ways to evaluate a corrective procedure and the technical requirements to ensure you deliver a safe and successful end results.

essentially age properly over the forthcoming years, ensuring that what we initially talked about creating has been achieved to the standard we both agreed upon and expect.

WHY ARE TOUCH-UPS AND COVER-UPS OFTEN REFERRED TO AS COMPLEX? When I meet a client for the first time, I explain to them that when I perform a cosmetic tattoo procedure, I break my appointments into two parts: the first involves a thorough consultation - we go through what the whole process will look like and what the client can expect. Then we review photos, cast them up on my screen and we chat about the design, agree on shape, colour and finally execute the tattooing (all, pretty straight forward).

So, what happens when you get a client coming through your door requesting a touch-up from another person’s work, or for a refreshed procedure, but the standard of what they present is not in line with what you would do, or what you would be comfortable with working over?

Approximately eight weeks post the initial procedure is when I schedule the second appointment. The client is fully healed and this is when we check the original design and review the work. This also provides the opportunity to add extra colour, build the gradient, increase the length of the tails or add to any areas that may have healed a little weaker. This is my opportunity to review the tattoo and make sure it’s accurately completed and will APJ 72

The important point to note here is to ‘my standard’. It is not a secret that the same pigment implanted with the same machine and the same needle can heal with a different saturation and colour nuance with different people. I therefore ensure the predictability of my results as best I can, based on my broad experience and then based on the initial results for every specific client. I then possibly change the technique during the touch-up procedure to tweak the work in order to achieve the best final healed result.

This is a grey area and it can often be quite confronting, or even create some anxiety with how you can reply or respond to the person who may consider their previous tattoo as a positive. What do you say and how do you price this, especially if your standard varies considerably to what they have walked in with and you have to tell them they may require a correction or cover-up, or you may even have to change things significantly? So why do cosmetic tattoo technicians consider this a complex matter, especially when it's ‘just’ a touch-up?

First, everyone has their own style of work, this is underpinned by their individual skill-set that incorporates everything from technique, vision, shapes, colours and gradients and ultimately their standard - which of course can be subjective and vary greatly.

Results received from another technician may be performed (in your opinion) from an acceptable to non-acceptable standard of work and consequently, whether you choose to work over this or not will depend on the type of advice you give to the new client. For example, a basic touch up or annual colour boost may not be so straightforward or simple. It may require removal in particular areas, stronger micro-pigmentation in other area, colour correction in another areas, or even complex dot work to create fine shading or a stronger gradient in areas of previous tattooing. The main point is that if the variation of what a good baseline should be in your opinion, varies too greatly, then you have some pretty complex work to ‘work around’ and the first step is communicating that plan.

can be enough to result in life-long scarring and become an everlasting nightmare for any future technician - why? Because we can generally remove or lighten the pigment, but we can’t generally remove scars. You may ask, “why does MB cause scarring and is it avoidable?” MB is a slicing/cutting technique and the cut or slice can cause significant trauma for your skin. In order to heal, it requires a significant quantity of connective tissue to rebind, this can be a problem for your future cover-up. Why? Because scar tissue doesn’t take pigment in the same way as healthy skin tissue, it can also cause unequal texture of the skin or in some cases visible indentations. In other cases, pigment in scars can heal unevenly or

THE HARD TRUTH ABOUT TATTOO REMOVALS IS THAT THEY ARE EXPENSIVE AND THEY ARE OFTEN UGLY One way or another if a client needs to go down the removal path whether its via laser, non-laser, or even a combination of all of the above - the CORRECT tattoo removal process is LONG and it's not important if the client doesn't want to have black lips or is adverse to scabs, they need to be aware that there are no shortcuts when it comes to corrections and removal. The process when done correctly aims to preserve the integrity of the skin and must be done slowly and at the correct rate and intensity with adequate healing time of at least 8-12 weeks. In between treatments will ensure skin health remains as optimal as it can be and will ideally limit any additional scarring from occurring. It's not unreasonable to expect that you will need several sessions and in some cases, the more extensive corrections may take a good 12-18 months to complete, which is why it’s important to understand how and why to choose the most effective and correct method. As for the calculation of the quantity of sessions, for laser you can use a Kirby-Desai scale. However you can also apply this process to non-laser or chemical tattoo removals as the effectiveness of the strong chemical tattoo removal is the same or a bit more than laser tattoo removal.

with weaker colour or retention, or the colour can heal quite cool and over time blur out, migrate or simply not hold due to the skin integrity being previously compromised. Eyeliner is very much the same, older eyeliner, or deep worked heavy carbon eyeliner, can feel almost impossible to penetrate and tattoo. The skin may appear thick and I liken it to a hard vein that almost rolls into the skin. It can also be fibrous and can be tricky to

Once you’ve established these things, you can set expectations and begin to build a plan with regard to how your removal/correction plan would look like. For example, if your client wants a nice soft powder brow, you will need to map out your process, create a timeline and establish incremental steps. You may remove or correct enough to get a soft and ‘even’ base foundation. It is important to ensure more than ample healing time is allocated in between and make sure the client knows that retention will be minimal or ‘soft’ for at least a good 12-18 months, Remember you can always build colour. However, skin integrity must be your number one consideration over any kind of perfection especially in the earlier stages. Also note that after any major removal work, retention will not be the best and can be tricky to get even and have the colour heal true to its objective. In my experience building it slowly is the best approach. HOW CAN SCARS FROM PREVIOUS WORK COMPLICATE FUTURE CORRECTIONS? Often, people present with heavily saturated brows, double-tails or symmetry issues. The first consideration is the colour or level of pigment in the skin, but upon closer inspection, excess pigment isn't necessarily the most complex issue when it comes to corrections. In fact, my thoughts are that your main issue is scarring. For example, just one inexperienced procedure of Microblading (MB)

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saturate or get new colour even. It may also need additional appointments to build the colour enough into the skin. Another major factor when it comes to removal whether laser or non-laser, is confusing the underlying scarring and thinking as to whether it is excess or residual pigment. I’ve seen this a lot where the brows look like they still have pigment in them and technicians have repeated removal sessions only to find nothing really changes and the purplish or greyish appearance remains, or in fact gets worse. But how can you tell what is what? In my experience as a baseline, observe everything under high quality lighting. This helps to see right into the skin and then if you press the persons brows and stretch the skin slowly you will begin to see it blanch the skin. You will need to do this the whole way along and through the brows or area of concern. This will generally give you a fairly good estimate of what is pigment and where any build-up of pigment remains. Areas which initially looked purple/greyish in the skin that turn whitish are scarring and pigment will remain and show as pigment. Sounds simple right? Yes but it’s not because of the variations and what's happening in the skin underneath. As a starting point, it’s imperative that technicians distinguish basic underlying scarring and post inflammatory pigmentation because if they are mistaken as excess or residual pigment and reworked, you will ultimately cause more damage and further compromise the skin or surrounding areas. I'll admit no two corrections are the same and removals are a tricky process, but one of the biggest things I have found to be helpful is ensuring the client allows for extended time and healing and the time reveals most removal areas continue to lighten. I personally push my clients out a good 8-12 weeks in between any removal/corrective work, so I am able to see what is left in the skin and then review and adjust at each visit. Additionally mixed modalities for removal can also be more effective than just one, especially when colours and multiple layers as well as saturation and scarring are all factors that require assessment at each incremental step of a removal process. When the colour becomes very light and laser stops to be effective, we can use chemical tattoo removal. In this way we can avoid scarring. As for laser, not every lip pigment will change to black, only iron oxide, but even if this particular pigment will show inversion, it can be effectively removed with a 1064nm lens. As for white pigment, it can be cleaned when you use chemical tattoo removals after laser. The correct tattoo removal is a LONG process. If you choose an incorrect way of removal, hurry up with this process, or choose wrong intensity, you will result with scarring! It is very important to leave about six to eight months between every laser or chemical tattoo removal session. Therefore, you will need several sessions, most likely between five to seven treatments. This will be 12-18 months work, that is why it's important to choose the most effective and correct method. Try to explain this to your client, or else she will wait for miracles. Also note that the healing time is hugely underestimated and can’t be rushed, irrespective of the client’s circumstances or agenda.

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This is especially important if we want the skin integrity to return enough to even hold, let alone retain any new ink in the future. WHY DOES BEING A RESPONSIBLE TECHNICIAN MATTER MORE THAN EVER? Consumer education is as important as technician education ensuring the client has a holistic and comprehensive idea of what their correction or removal will look like and why it’s necessary. This information not only serves to make their journey easier, but also helps to raise awareness of what is and isn’t acceptable industry practice. So, the savvier the client, the better questions they ask and deeper research they undertake when looking to find the right person to help and further assist them. You may ask why should you do any permanent make-up corrections or removal if it is such a complex topic? Permanent make-up and cosmetic tattooing can seriously improve the life and self-esteem of an individual, someone who may have lost colour, or been in an accident, suffered an injury or have had surgery. Either way good cosmetic tattooing has a great potential to make your life easier and routine much more simplistic, but also improve confidence and one's sense of self. APJ

EXPERIENCE THE MEDER DIFFERENCE Meder Microbiome-Friendly Eye Care uses friendly ingredients in two eyecare solutions which can be used simultaneously.

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mederbeautyscience.com.au

APJ 75

TATTOO PIGMENTS

THE POWER OF COLOUR IN

COSMETIC TATTOOING PART I Maya Ercegovac

WHEN IT COMES TO COSMETIC TATTOOING Maya Ercogovac is considered a master trainer and practitioner, both in Australia and internationally. At the Aesthetic Conference this year in July, Maya addressed the issue of Colour Principles for Successful Tattoo Outcomes. This is a two-part series on this topic, Maya will identify some important colour theory principles and application consideration for a successful cosmetic tattooing end result.

creating realistic effects, correcting imperfections, or balancing features for both natural enhancements or even for medical conditions.

THE JOY OF COLOUR One of the pleasures of life is the joy we receive by beholding the magic of colour, whether through nature or art, our world is enriched with an amazing spectrum of beautiful colours. Did you know that there are approximately 16 million different shades of colours that can be distinguished by the human eye?

I often find that colour errors occur when an artist relates to the use of colour in the same manner as in topically applied makeup, where the colour sits on top of the skin. However, when we insert colour INTO the skin (as with cosmetic tattooing) there are several considerations that will determine the end result. We need to consider that our “canvas” the skin, already has its own colour composition comprised of melanin, carotene, haemoglobin and the impart of oxygenated and deoxygenated blood contribute to an underlying colour.

In the makeup and cosmetic tattooing industries much of what we can achieve is through the skillful use of colour. With colour we can enhance features, bring them forward or recede them and minimise the appearance of imperfections. We can also create three-dimensional effects through the illusion of clever colour graduation and placement. It therefore stands to reason that to be a successful cosmetic tattoo artists it is essential that we understand the theory of colour as it forms a principal foundation of everything we do, from complimenting natural skin tones, enhancing colour, blending,

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Colour, when applied to the human body, particularly inserted into the skin, is often misunderstood, especially if insufficient colour theory is not taught or understood during training.

We also need to consider the ethnic variations of the skin tone as we understand them through the Fitzpatrick scale, including warm or cool undertones. Additionally, we also need to investigate the health and condition of the skin – is it excessively oily, very dry, or are we working on an existing scar tissue? All these considerations will bring their own challenges that must be contextualised when determining our colour selection to that will allow us to achieve the desired end result.

In this article I will commence with the introduction of colour theory and then related it to its relevance to human skin. COLOUR THEORY How humans perceive colour, and the visual effect of how colours mix, match and contrast with one another play a huge role in understanding colour theory. Colour theory also involves the messages that colours communicate, and the method used to replicate colour. All colours can be created from just three primary colours that are combined in different ratio. It is important to understand the colour theory is both science and an art-form. In colour theory, colours are organised on a colour wheel also known as chromatic circle. Colours are grouped in three categories: •

Primary colours

•

Secondary Colours

•

Tertiary colours

PRIMARY COLOURS: Primary colours include red, blue and yellow and cannot be mixed from other colours. These three colours are the sources of all colours.

SECONDARY COLOURS: Secondary colours are mixed from two primary colours adjacent to each other on the colour wheel. The secondary colours are orange, green and violet. Combining blue and yellow gives us green, that means the combination of the two pigments absorbs all of the waves of light in the spectrum except green. TERTIARY COLOURS: A tertiary colour is produced by an equal mixture of a primary colour with a secondary colour adjacent to it on the colour wheel. It's understood in the art world that tertiary colours are sometimes given creative names for artistic reasons: teal, chartreuse, vermilion, magenta, violet, and amber. These names do not alter the fact that a true tertiary colour is derived from combining equal parts of one primary and one secondary colour. In cosmetic tattooing we predominantly use tertiary colours.

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SKIN COLOURING The colour of skin is influenced by several pigments, including melanin, carotene and haemoglobin from our blood. In humans, melanin is the primary determinant of skin colour. It is also found in the hair and the pigmented tissue underlining the iris of the eye. Melanin is produced by cells called melanocytes, which are found scattered throughout the basal layer of the epidermis. CREATING BROWNS AND SKIN TONES Our skin colour and its undertones are a mixture of colours provided by the skin’s pigments, resulting in an overall flesh or brown colour. Of course, skin colour varies around the world, from very dark brown to very pale. We can use primary and secondary colours to create various shades of brown. First, the three primary colours can be mixed to

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create brown. We can also mix two secondary colours to produce the browns seen in skin tones. Examples could be: •

Olive brown: mixing green + violet. This has a blue bias.

•

Russet brown: mixing violet + orange. This has a red bias and is called ruddy or warm.

•

Citrine brown: mixing orange + green. This has a yellow bias and is referred to as sallow or golden.

COMPLEMENTARY COLOURS Each colour has a complementary colour –the one that sits opposite it on the colour wheel. For example, blue and orange are opposite each other and therefore are complementary to each other.

When placed next to each other, complementary colours create a strong and vibrant contrast. For example, blue and orange side by side creates a strong contrast and enhance each other. Understanding complementary colours is useful in cosmetic tattooing. For example, orange is used to cancel blue-toned lips in some Fitzpatrick skin types, it will allow you to neutralise a natural lip colour and give it a pinker tone. In this instance I prefer to use orange that is not tinted with a white shade, but rather just a pure, yellow-based pigment. The same applies for eyebrows that heal to a bluish tone and require correction. This problem can result from an incorrect insertion depth of the pigment or possibly an organic based pigment. For such corrections I use orange or yellow corrector that is free of white shades (titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, barium sulphate). Complementary colours, when mixed in equal proportions, cancel each other out. So, to cancel out a blue colour and make it grey, you would mix an equal amount of orange into it. Understanding complementary colours is very useful when undertaking a cosmetic tattoo colour correction, for example, the use of a touch of green to neutralise brows that have healed to a red/pink in certain areas. However, if you use too much green the result will be dull and greying. Another example is using an orangebased ink is to neutralise bluish tones. On the other hand, to knock out purple-toned finish we need to use brassy yellow ink. So, a blue or green corrector is used to neutralise orange tones and vice versa. These issues are common with inorganic pigments where covalent bonding resulted in the formation of a rusty, pink-orange toned tattoos. HARMONISING COLOURS Colours that share one primary colour are called harmonising colours. For example, blue, indigo, and violet are harmonised as they all share blue as part of their colour formation. Likewise, green chartreuse and yellow are harmonised because they all share yellow as a common colour. They therefore blend easily into each other because they share the same primary colour. There is more to colour than simply getting the mix right to create the desired shade. How a cosmetic tattoo ends up looking on camera or in real life, is affected by many other factors. Colours and their effects can also be better understood by reviewing their various properties. These include hue, brightness and saturation. We will also look at tints, shades and tones. HUE: In simple terms, the hue refers to the dominant wavelength of the colour. It actually refers to the actual colour. For example, the hue of royal blue or navy is blue. The hue of emerald is green, while the hue of burgundy is red.

TINT: A tint is a colour plus white, therefore making the colour lighter. For example, mixing white into violet will make it lilac. Likewise adding white to blue create a powder blue. Pastel colours like peach, apricot and cream are example of tints. SHADE: A shade is a colour plus black, therefore it makes the colour darker. For example, adding black to violet makes a dark purple, adding black to blue creates a navy-blue colour. TONE: A tone is simply a colour plus grey, making the colour more muted. Tonality refers to how light or dark a colour is. Tone is particularly important in black and white photos, as you see tones rather than colour. For example, a light orange and a light blue that have the same tonality would look as the same colour in a black and white photo. HOW COLOUR IS PERCEIVED When looking at an object the colour we see depends on several factors. This includes the colour of the light around us, the colour of any filters used, and the colour of the object itself, that is why using coloured gels or filters on cameras and studio lights change the way skin tone, hair colour, costumes and the set can look. Likewise, our perception of a colour is not fixed, but is constantly changing, as it is influenced by such things as the brightness of the light and the colours in our environment. With cosmetic tattooing, the colours reflected from our vascular network also contributes to how we perceive a colour, making cosmetic tattooing more vibrant in the morning than in the afternoon, particularly with lips. The amazing thing is that we have only three types of colour receptors (cones) in our eyes, but with just these three types, we can see hundreds of different colours and distinguish between two, only slightly different, colours. HOW COLOUR PIGMENTS ARE CONSTRUCTED When it comes to cosmetic tattooing the colours we use are constructed through pigments, which are a fine grain of colour that are mixed and dispersed in liquid carriers (water, glycerine, propylene, isopropyl alcohols) to become ink. There are traditional colours that are inorganic based on so called transition metals, such as cobalt, iron and cadmium. Additionally, there are modern organic pigments. These are constructed through rearranged carbon and oxygen molecules to create new compounds that yield colours of great brilliance. Currently pigments used in tattooing and cosmetic tattooing are both organic and inorganic. Organic pigments are carbon based and are mainly synthetically made. Inorganic pigments are minerals that are also often found in nature. The main inorganic pigments are titanium dioxide, barium sulphate and iron oxides. Titanium dioxide and barium sulphate are used for white colours, or to brighten darker shades. Iron oxides are used to achieve the colours red, brown, and black and are often used for colours that are similar to the shade of the skin. These pigments are insoluble in aqueous solutions and precipitate in the skin. In the next issue of APJ we will examine the various composition of colour pigments. We will look at modern organic pigments, pigment consistency, ink manufacturing and the rise in cosmetic tattoo popularity as a procedures, as well as professional possibilities and risk considerations. APJ

SATURATION: Colour saturation refers to how vivid, rich, or intense a colour is. It is one of the three elements of colour, with the other two being hue and value. VALUE: The value of a colour refers to its brightness – the amount of light that is reflected off the colour. In other words, it describes how light or dark a colour is. For example, a banana yellow is brighter than a mustard yellow, and pink is said to be higher in value (brighter) than dark red, which would be considered lower in value than the bright pink. Colours that are high in value, highlight and enlarge, while colours that are low in value are more muted and recede, we use these to create depth or contour.

Maya Ercegovac

APJ 79

WOMEN WHO CHANGED THE WORLD

MAYA ANGELOU A VOICE FOR SOCIAL JUSTICE

THIS YEAR, AS PART OF INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S YEAR, WE ARE FEATURING in each issue of APJ the life of a remarkable woman whose life’s pursuits have change the world. In this issue we feature the life of Maya Angelou. An acclaimed American poet, storyteller, activist and autobiographer Maya Angelou was born Marguerite Johnson in St. Louis, Missouri. She had a broad career as a singer, dancer, actress, composer and Hollywood’s first female black director, but above all, she became most famous for her message of the importance of social justice which she expressed through her contribution to the written word as an editor, essayist, playwright, and poet. As a civil rights activist, Angelou worked for Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. and Malcolm X. She was also an educator and served as the Reynolds professor of American Studies at Wake Forest University. By 1975, wrote Carol E. Neubauer in Southern Women Writers: The New Generation, Angelou was recognised “as a spokesperson for all people who are committed to raising the moral standards of living in the United States.” She served on two presidential committees, for Gerald Ford in 1975 and for Jimmy Carter in 1977. In 2000, Angelou was awarded the National Medal of Arts by President Bill Clinton. In 2010, she was awarded the Presidential Medal of Freedom the highest civilian honour in the U.S., by President Barack Obama. Angelou was awarded an amazing 50 honorary degrees before her death. I KNOW WHY THE CAGED BIRD SINGS Angelou’s most famous work, I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings (1969), deals with her early years in Long Beach, St. Louis and Stamps, Arkansas, where she lived with her brother and paternal grandmother. In one of its most evocative (and controversial) moments, Angelou describes how she was first cuddled then raped by her mother’s boyfriend when she was just seven years old. When the man was murdered by her uncles for his crime, Angelou felt responsible, and stopped talking. Angelou remained mute for five years but developed a love for language. She read Black authors like Langston Hughes, W. E. B. Du Bois, and Paul Lawrence Dunbar, as well as canonical works by William Shakespeare, Charles Dickens, and Edgar Allan Poe.

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When Angelou was 12, Mrs. Flowers, an educated African American woman, finally got her to speak again. Mrs. Flowers emphasised the importance of the spoken word, explained the nature of and importance of education, and instilled in her a love of poetry. Angelou graduated at the top of her eighth-grade class. Angelou married a white ex-sailor, Tosh Angelos, in 1950. After they separated, Angelou continued her study of dance in New York City, returning to San Francisco to sing in the Purple Onion cabaret and garnering the attention of talent scouts. From 1954 to 1955, she was a member of the cast of a touring production of Porgy and Bess. THE CIVIL RIGHTS MOVEMENT Angelou joined the Harlem Writers Guild in the late 1950s and met James Baldwin and other important writers. It was during this time that Angelou had the opportunity to hear Dr. Martin Luther King speak. Inspired by his message, she decided to become a part of the struggle for civil rights. She was offered a position as the northern coordinator for Dr. King’s SCLC. Following her work for Dr. King, Angelou moved to Cairo with her son, and in 1962, to Ghana in West Africa. She worked as a freelance writer and was a feature editor at the African Review. When Angelou returned to the United States in the mid-1960s, she was encouraged by author James Baldwin and Robert Loomis, an editor at Random House, to write an autobiography. Initially, Angelou declined the offers, but eventually changed her mind and wrote I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings. The book chronicles Angelou’s childhood and ends with the birth of her son. It won immediate success and was nominated for a National Book Award. I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings is the first of Angelou’s six autobiographies. It is widely taught in schools, though it has faced controversy over its portrayal of race, sexual abuse and violence. Over the years Angelou authored several books that gained incredible popularity as they narrated raw elements of her life, as well as poignantly depicted the reality of racial struggles as they occurred in that era, challenging popular thought towards change on numerous social, cultural issues. Throughout her writings she often hesitated and took years to finish some of her books. “I didn’t

see how I could write about the assassination of Malcolm [X], the Watts riot, the breakup of a love affair, then the assassination of Dr. Martin Luther King J., how could I describe all that loss with something uplifting in it.” Angelou was also a prolific and widely read poet, and her poetry has often been lauded more for its depictions of Black beauty, the strength of women, and the human spirit; criticising the Vietnam War; demanding social justice for all than for its poetic virtue. Yet Just Give Me a Cool Drink of Water ‘fore I Diiie, which was published in 1971, was nominated for a Pulitzer Prize in 1972. According to Carol Neubauer in Southern Women Writers, “the first 20 poems describe the whole gamut of love, from the first moment of passionate discovery to the first suspicion of painful loss.” In other poems, Angelou turns her attention to the lives of black people in America from the time of slavery to the rebellious 1960s. Her themes deal broadly with the painful anguish suffered by blacks forced into submission, with guilt over accepting too much, and with protest and basic survival. As Angelou wrote her autobiographies and poems, she continued her career in film and television. She was the first Black woman to have a screenplay (Georgia, Georgia) produced in 1972. She was honoured with a nomination for an Emmy award for her performance in Roots in 1977. In 1979, Angelou helped adapt her book, I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings, for a television movie of the same name. Angelou wrote the poetry for the 1993 film Poetic Justice and played the role of Aunt June. One source of Angelou’s fame in the early 1990s was President Bill Clinton’s invitation to write and read an inaugural poem. Americans across the country watched as she read “On the Pulse of Morning,” which begins “A Rock, a River, a Tree” and calls for peace, racial and religious harmony, and social justice for people of different origins, incomes, genders. It recalls the civil rights movement and Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr.’s famous “I have a dream” speech as it urges America to “Give birth again To the Dream” of equality.

Angelou challenged the new administration and all Americans to work together for progress: “Here, on the pulse of this new day, you may have the grace to look up and out and into your sister’s eyes, and into your brother’s face, your country and say simply, very simply with hope - good morning.” During the early 1990s, Angelou wrote several books for children, including Life Doesn’t Frighten Me (1993), which also featured the work of Jean-Michel Basquiat; My Painted House, My Friendly Chicken, and Me (1994), and Kofi and His Magic (1996), both collaborations with the photographer Margaret Courtney-Clark. Angelou’s poetry collections include The Complete Collected Poems of Maya Angelou (1994) and Phenomenal Woman (1995), a collection of four poems that takes its title from a poem which originally appeared in Cosmopolitan magazine in 1978. The poem’s narrator describes the physical and spiritual characteristics and qualities that make her attractive. Angelou also wrote occasional poems, including A Brave Startling Truth (1995), which commemorated the founding of the United Nations, and Amazing Peace (2005), a poem written for the White House Christmas tree-lighting ceremony. She published multiple collections of essays. Wouldn’t Take Nothing for My Journey Now (1993) contains declarations, complaints, memories, opinions, and advice on subjects ranging from faith to jealousy. In 2013 she was the recipient of the Literarian Award, an honorary National Book Award for contributions to the literary community. In her lifetime Maya Angelou gave voice to the issue of social justice and the importance for the human race to learn to live harmoniously with their fellowman, regardless of race or gender. She did not allow her pain to collapse her into self-pity, but instead chose to articulate her message poetically and artistically, creating awareness of injustice and the need for change towards a better world. Maya Angelou died in 2014 at the age of 86. APJ

APJ 81

NUTRITION

NEW RESEARCH REVEALS WHY MAGNESIUM IS CONSIDERED AN ESSENTIAL MINERAL FOR SKIN AND HEALTH Tina Viney

WE ALL HAVE A RESPONSIBILITY to invest in both our mental health, as well as enhancing our immune system through diet, lifestyle changes and nutritional support, especially at this time with the global pandemic. While our priority should be to turn to high quality, pure food as the best way to support our health, there are some supplements that can still provide us with exceptional benefits. One of these is magnesium. It has been a while since we profile magnesium, however, this articles aims to present new information and an update on why magnesium is so very important right now. Magnesium is one of the most abundant minerals in the human body. While in the past, it was identified as contributing to over 300 different physiological processes, new studies are confirming that magnesium is responsible for over 600 processes in the body, making it even more important for optimised health. Unfortunately, magnesium is one of the most pervasive deficiencies in our society today. If you wish to assess if your client is deficient, take a closer look at some of the symptoms of deficiency as presented in this article. Also learn the simple strategies to increase magnesium intake into the body as a way of supporting health and immunity. According to American neurosurgeon Norman Shealy, MD, PhD, almost every known disease is associated with a magnesium deficiency. This may sound like a bold statement at first, but it actually makes a lot of sense considering the number of roles it

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plays in the body. This also explains why there are such a diverse set of symptoms that occur when you are not getting enough of it. Let’s look at some of potential symptoms of magnesium deficiency: POOR COGNITIVE PROCESSING If you are dealing with frequent bouts of brain fog, poor concentration, or constant memory issues, you may have a magnesium deficiency. Structures within every cell of the body, such as mitochondria, are responsible for producing the energy that the body uses for everything. The brain contains the highest concentration of mitochondria in the male body (females have a higher concentration in their ovaries). Mitochondria are heavily reliant on magnesium for energy production so a deficiency can significantly hamper your brain performance. It comes as no surprise that supplemental magnesium has been shown to improve learning and memory. HEADACHES AND CHRONIC MIGRAINES It has been found that sufferers of chronic migraines often have lower levels of magnesium in their bodies. Considering how important magnesium is for proper nerve function, this makes a lot of sense. Magnesium also plays the additional key role of regulating neurotransmitter production, which can also influence migraines. Supplemental magnesium taken on a regular basis has been shown to decrease both the frequency and intensity of migraine headaches. Additionally, magnesium has been shown to have the

same effect on non-migraine headaches as well. Much of this has to do with magnesium’s ability to help regulate calcium balance within neuronal cells. Too much calcium can lead to neurotoxic effects where the brain cells are overstimulated, and this is a major factor in headaches and migraine formation.

supports the adrenal glands which can play a huge part in energy production as well. As magnesium is involved in so many enzymatic processes in the body, deficiency will make it harder to perform the many processes. This acts as a chronic stressor on your body and drains your energy.

CONSTIPATION AND IBS Constipation is another common digestive issue that can be the result of magnesium deficiency. Appropriate magnesium intake softens stools by drawing water into the bowels, supporting healthy elimination. If stools become too hard, they move slower through the colon and become a problem. Therefore, in cases of constipation complaints, suggesting magnesium supplementation is highly recommended.

If you are chronically fatigued, you may have a magnesium deficiency and increasing your magnesium intake can improve your energy levels drastically.

Additionally, magnesium plays a major role in regulating muscle contractions in the intestines and this is why a magnesium deficiency often results in constipation. Supplementing with magnesium can therefore be very helpful in relieving discomfort and cramping due to irritable bowel syndrome or other similar conditions. FATIGUE Magnesium is also highly involved with energy production. As mentioned before, the mitochondria in your cells heavily rely on magnesium to produce energy. Your mitochondrial function primarily determines your energy levels. Additionally, magnesium

INSOMNIA Insomnia is one of the most frequent conditions that contribute to accelerated ageing and inflammation, as without sufficient sleep, the body’s parasympathetic nervous system is not activated to perform the much-needed repair and regeneration processes. By adding magnesium to our diet, we will experience marked improvement in the quality of sleep. This is because magnesium is involved in the production of GABA in the brain. GABA is an inhibitory neurotransmitter and a chemical that promotes relaxation. If we don’t have enough magnesium to produce adequate amounts of GABA, our sleep will likely suffer. Although there are other nutrients involved with GABA production, magnesium is a critical factor that will heavily determine your sleep quality. MUSCLE SPASMS AND CRAMPING In your consultation form you should include a question on cramps

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and muscle spasms. As magnesium is so important for proper nerve transmission, it comes as no surprise that it also plays a vital role in muscle contraction. When magnesium is depleted, muscle contractions can become weak and uncoordinated, leading to involuntary spasms and painful cramps. This is in fact one of the most common early signs of magnesium deficiency. Spasms typically occur in the legs, feet, and sometimes even in places like the eyelids. These usually happen at night, or even during sleep at night, and when they occur, they can be very painful and debilitating. For women who also experience severe PMS-related cramping this may also be an indication of low magnesium levels. CHRONIC PAIN AND FIBROMYALGIA Chronic pain and related conditions like fibromyalgia are heavily related to tension carried in the body. This tension can be purely physical, but can also be aggravated by emotional stress as well. Emotions such as anxiety, anger, and worry all contribute to physical tension. Over time this chronic tension leads to pain. When magnesium stores are low in the body, the nervous system can become hyper excitable (meaning easily overstimulated) which can increase muscle tension. Magnesium can play a role here by helping to elicit an overall calming effect on the mind and body while soothing and relaxing the muscles. HEART ARRHYTHMIA The heart is a muscle that constantly contracts inside our bodies without needing to be consciously controlled. Just as with other muscles in the body, the heart relies heavily on magnesium for proper contraction. This is thought to be due to its role in

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regulating calcium and potassium concentrations in the muscle tissue. If you identify symptoms of heart beats irregularly, magnesium may be something to address. This includes rapid heartbeats, slow heartbeats, and sudden changes in heart rhythm for no apparent reason. NUMBNESS AND TINGLING If you often feel numbness or tingling sensations in your body, such as in the hands and feet, this is likely due to a change in nerve activity. For example, peripheral neuropathy (a common side effect of diabetes) is characterised by these sensations. Because of its role in healthy nerve transmission, magnesium deficiency may be at least in part playing a role here. Limited research has been performed on this mechanism specifically, but some studies have shown that magnesium may be able to relieve or prevent numbness and tingling in the extremities. This effect has been highlighted in research showing protective properties against peripheral neuropathy induced by certain cancer therapies. MOOD DISORDERS Magnesium plays a crucial role in regulating to neurotransmitter balance not just for enhancing sleep, but also mood. The chemicals in the brain also regulate thought patterns and behaviours ranging from motivation to sleep, to focus (and many more). As mentioned before, magnesium is particularly involved in GABA production in the brain, which is a calming neurotransmitter. A poor ability to produce adequate GABA in the brain results in conditions such as ADD/ADHD, anxiety, irritability, and general

mood imbalances. If you identify with these feelings on a regular basis, you should consider increasing your daily magnesium intake. DOES MAGNESIUM BENEFIT THE SKIN? According to Joshua Zeichner, M.D., director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City, magnesium is necessary for the maintenance of a healthy skin barrier and has been shown to be helpful in preventing and treating dry, damaged skin. Dermatologist Dr. Dendy Engelman also notes that magnesium oil has absorption properties that make it a powerful humectant to keep skin hydrated and supple. In other studies, magnesium was shown to break down oils and fats, which could explain its ability to help minimise oily skin. Magnesium also helps fight stress by supporting adrenal function and serotonin synthesis. This means that stress-related breakouts could be alleviated by magnesium as well. HERE ARE THREE WAYS TO SUPPORT MAGNESIUM LEVELS Now that you know the signs of magnesium deficiency and just how important this mineral is for the human body, it is important to understand the best ways to obtain it. Here are three simple strategies to boost magnesium levels to support health: Transdermal Magnesium People have been using minerals like magnesium transdermally for thousands of years. Even though humans have been using the skin as a direct pathway into the body for treatment for centuries, it has only been in recent times that we begun to understand the science behind it. Magnesium absorption has been studied in both humans and animals under various experimental conditions. * Balneotherapy: Research in the growing field of balneotherapy, which is using mineral water baths to treat disease, has shown that nutrient minerals in the water can be absorbed by the skin, challenging earlier assumptions. There is now extensive evidence that soaking in hot mineral springs offer numerous benefits for human health. Numerous studies confirm of an overall increase in physical, emotional, and mental well-being, not to mention pain relief, as a result of individuals immersion in mineral baths. It's now confirmed that it is the magnesium released into the body and not simply the effect of just sitting in hot water.

If molecules are small enough, they can slip through the skin. In 2000, A molecule smaller than 500 Daltons, can drift through the stratum corneum known as the 500 Dalton rule. Magnesium ions are significantly smaller than 500 Daltons at an atomic mass of just 24 Daltons. The most effective form of magnesium for epidermal delivery that are separated by various studies is magnesium chloride. The chloride radical has an even smaller atomic mass than the sulphate radical and is found in all body fluids. It is responsible for maintaining pH balance, transmitting nerve impulses and regulating fluid into and out of cells. Studies confirm that transdermal application of magnesium in the chloride form will raise magnesium levels within the body over a relatively short period of time. Absorption occurs by distribution around and through the cells that make up the skin. Some absorption takes place along hair follicles or through sweat ducts. Skin thickness and barrier accessibility are different in various areas so absorption rates will vary in different parts of the body. Dietary intake: What about diet? To increase the daily dose of magnesium through diet, try eating more green, dark, leafy vegetables (i.e. spinach, kale, Swiss chard, collard greens, etc.), fish (i.e. sardines or tuna), seaweed, spirulina and kelp, avocados, bananas, dried fruit or dark chocolate. As far as supplementation is concerned, it is always beneficial to look for a well-rounded formula that combines various forms of elemental magnesium combined with other vitamins and minerals to enhance bio-availability. This is one supplement that almost everyone needs. WHAT ABOUT DOSE The amount of magnesium you need varies widely depending on your age, sex, and other factors. The best way to find the correct dosage and type of magnesium for your body is to consult with a qualified healthcare practitioner. However, the above symptoms of deficiency should be able to help you identified a potential deficiency. We trust the RDA table below will also provide you with some guidance of requirements.

* Transdermal patches: Transdermal patches are produced Age

Male

Female

Pregnancy

Lactation

Birth to 6 months

30 mg*

7–12 months

75 mg*

1–3 years

80 mg

4–8 years

130 mg

9–13 years

240 mg

14–18 years

410 mg

360 mg

400 mg

360 mg

19–30 years

400 mg

310 mg

350 mg

310 mg

31–50 years

420 mg

320 mg

360 mg

320 mg

51+ years

420 mg

320 mg

commercially by pharmaceutical companies as delivery systems for nicotine, hormones, pain killers, and others. Similarly, herbalists utilise compresses and ointments based on the healing properties of plants. There are prescription oestrogen patches, scopolamine patches, nicotine patches - all large molecules compared to magnesium sulphate.

Recommended Dietary Allowances (RDAs) for Magnesium

APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

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AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN

COSMETIC TRENDS FORCAST 2022-2023 Presented through the Global Research Lens As skincare companies prepare to compete in 2022-2023, research is providing them with valuable feedback on consumer trends on which to base their focus for product development. Here are some of the key trends that will feature this summer and beyond and what the professional market will be competing against for the consumer spend. Gaining this information from global research will allow you to be onpoint with your retail product stocks so that your clients can access product from you first. CONVENIENCE IS KEY Whether a quick spritz for the hair, body, or face, spray formats are particularly popular across global product launches. As the world slowly returns to more regular travel and work commutes, brands are seizing the opportunity to provide consumers with handbag-friendly formulations that are ideal for on-the-go use. Discover refreshing, maskne-fighting, and microbiome-balancing facial sprays,

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prebiotic-enriched and sense-stimulating atomisers, will be the must-have product this summer. PINK WILL REIGN SUPREME While reds were trending during the winter months, spring and summer will feature a variety of more tender tones that will range from soft shades of rose quartz to sheer cotton and baby pink. The mellow tones have been picked up and features strongly by Japanese influences. Traditionally, pink is a soothing, calming and “anti-stress” colour, the perfect colour to wear in clothing or makeup as we move to the warmer seasons. JUST COMPOST IT Not just ingredients, this season, expect to see a lot of thought going into the design and materials used in cosmetic packaging. Consumers are more conscious than ever about making sustainable choices and this is inspiring beauty brands to take steps towards offering products with biodegradable packaging. This includes “certified compostable” packaging and those made from materials such as paper, sugar cane, mushroom, seaweed, and food waste byproducts that break down into harmless particles or contain no micro-plastics.

Water-soluble plastics and biodegradable packaging are gaining traction as the new trend, made with an amazing array of harmless ingredients such as dairy leftovers, starch and seaweed, are coming to the fore. GREAT BARRIER RELIEF Due to the frequent use of masks and heightened stress levels, skin rashes and inflammation are becoming a common phenomenon as a result of the disruption of the skin barrier. The new trend in skincare is focusing on products with multifunctional formulas designed to restore balance of the skin’s microbiome, regulate water, support cell turnover, and act as a barrier against skin irritants. These are now considered the go-to products for all skin types and conditions that aim at strengthening the skin barrier and safeguarding its protection. CBD PROLIFERATES We are keeping an eye on the latest Hemp and CBD trends. International research company Beautystreams has confirmed that the CBD trend is not going way any time soon, in fact, it is experiencing proliferation in the age of COVID-19. As more people seek natural alternatives to address ailments like pain, anxiety,

This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information

depression, inflammation, and insomnia, the CBD wellness and beauty landscape continues to grow. GO WITH THE GLOW After a year of pandemic lockdown and restrictions, it’s time to say hello to the glow vibe and goodbye to sallow skin, signifying health and wellbeing. This trend is all about achieving luminous skin that looks like it is glowing from within. It is a backlash against the cakey, overly contoured makeup look that we have seen as a trend in recent years. Starting with restoring skin balance, subtle satin, with a touch of shimmer foundations and blushes are illuminating a healthierlooking skin. PROBIOTICS GOES INTO MAKEUP Powered by probiotics to preserve and protect the skin’s natural beauty, makeup companies are creating multi-tasking cosmetics for eyes, cheeks, brows and lips formulated with lactobacillus to strengthen the skin’s natural barrier, while adding a touch of colour and glamour to the face. Look for creamy sunkissed duos that feature tropical botanical blends that drench the skin with rich hydration so the skin feels healthy and smooth, with probiotics that protect and defend the skin’s barrier.

MASTERING WELLBEING Progressively the pivotal element of beauty is becoming the focus on health – making it one and the same, with products and treatments formulated to go beyond the skin and support physical and mental wellbeing. Cellular beauty will be combined with science and therapy. Look for adaptogenic ingredients, such as astaxanthin and ashwagandha that work not just on the skin, but also support wellbeing.

THE FUTURE FORECAST OF COSMETIC STANDARDS The forecast is that from 2023 products will need to be fit to function in a trading environment where collective activism has increased and industry practices are being continually challenged on environmental and social grounds. Regulators, investors and consumers will coalesce to demand services, systems and products that accelerate regenerative change and deliver inclusive and equitable outcomes at local and global levels. Proactively designed products that do ‘more good’ will stand out to consumers as markets become inundated with products

designed to do less harm. As the turmoil of the pandemic is put behind us and economies return to growth, it is important that the lessons of 2021 are acted upon. Brands and retailers must seize the opportunity to reset or be held accountable as the cosmetic industry recreates itself as more ethical, inclusive and sustainable. In 2023 a brand that doesn’t participate positively with these values won’t participate at all as beauty consumers look to invest in products that support their needs and the needs of others. Standing for something other than the bottom line will propel brands to the forefront of much-needed radical change and complete transparency will be nonnegotiable. Products will need to help heal the world and be created by processes that boost biodiversity and leave no footprint behind. To meet these objectives, cosmetic companies will need to prepare now for their transformation. APJ

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BOTANICALS

LIQUORICE ROOT EXTRACT AND ITS BENEFITS

More Than Just Candy Tina Viney AS A CHILD LIQUORICE WAS ONE OF MY FAVOURITE SWEETS. Whenever, I was given jelly beans I would always go through them seeking the black shinny ones with the lovely aniseed-like taste that turned my tongue bluish-black. Liquorice (the Australian spelling) or licorice (the American spelling) is the common name of Glycyrrhiza glabra, a flowering plant of the bean family Fabaceae, from the root of which the sweet, aromatic flavouring can be extracted. The liquorice plant is considered a herbaceous perennial legume native to Western Asia, North Africa and Southern Europe. It has a woody-stem that grows to about 1-2 metres, its long and wrinkled roots branch horizontally and spread out under the ground. While it tastes similar to anise or fennel, which are sources of similar flavouring compounds, botanically they are not similar. Traditionally, liquorice has been appreciated as a medicinal plant and used extensively in Chinese medicine for thousands of years, referred to as “the peacemaker” herb. It is one of the most widely consumed herbs across the world and is currently grown in Russia, Spain, France, England, Germany, the Middle East, and Asia. LIQUORICE NUTRITIONAL FACTS Liquorice offers a wide range of beneficial nutrients and flavonoids. It is a good source of vitamin B1(thiamine), B2 (riboflavin), B3 (niacin), B5 (pantothenic acid) and vitamin E (tocopherol). It also provides minerals such as phosphorous, calcium, choline, iron, magnesium, potassium, selenium, silicon and zinc. It is a storehouse of essential phytonutrients, including beta-carotene, glycyrrhizin, glabridin, isoliquiritigenin, thymol, phenol, ferulic acid, and quercetin. HEALTH BENEFITS OF LIQUORICE With an extensive nutritional profile, liquorice is praised as a timehonoured remedy, and is considered among the most extensively utilised and scientifically studied botanical healers. Here are just some of the benefits that liquorice is renowned for: Aphthous Ulcers or Canker Sores According to a study published in the National Centre for Complementary and Integrative Health, liquorice has been proven to be beneficial in the treatment of painful recurrent aphthous ulcers,

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also known as canker sores or mouth ulcers. Canker sores are small, non-contagious lesions that crop up on the tissues inside the mouth and gums. Furthermore, the study has shown that treatment with the extract of this root has resulted in significant improvement in the condition of the subjects with respect to reduction in both pain and inflammation. Its beneficial constituents help in accelerating the healing and aids in the stimulation of the body’s immune defence mechanism. Liver Protection Studies have shown promising results regarding the hepatoprotective effect of liquorice. It contains glycyrrhizin, which as per a study in the Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, is effective in the treatment of liver disorders by reducing toxicity and helps in stabilising the normal functional condition of the liver. Another research study has provided evidence that the flavonoid isoliquiritigenin, present in liquorice, possesses antioxidant and inhibitory qualities which help in protecting the liver cells from high-fat, diet-induced injuries and the damage caused by oxidative stress. Stomach Disorders Phyllis A Balch, in his book, Herbal Healing mentioned that the glycyrrhizic acid present in liquorice can provide protection against the growth of Helicobacter pylori bacteria and can also exert therapeutic effects in curing the symptoms of dyspepsia or impaired digestion. Rheumatoid Arthritis Dr. Qing-Chun Huang and his team from the Guangzhou University of Chinese Medicine, China, in a report published in the Oncotarget Journal stated that liquorice extracts possess anti-inflammatory properties and have been proven to be effective in the treatment of rheumatoid arthritis. Research has indicated that it may be beneficial in reducing the levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines and for providing relief from pain and swelling. Menopause and Premenstrual Syndrome Liquorice root is effective in treating the symptoms of menopause and premenstrual syndrome (PMS). It is rich in isoflavones, which help to maintain the oestrogen and progesterone balance in the body. Studies have shown positive results regarding the efficacy of

liquorice in reducing the frequency of nocturnal hot flashes and for improving physical and psychological health in menopausal women. It contains phytoestrogens and helps in elevating the levels of progesterone hormone in the body, which aids in soothing the cramps and discomfort often experienced during menstruation. Dr. Linda Woolven in her book, The Smart Woman’s Guide to PMS and Pain-Free Periods, has stated that the root is also effective in the problem of water retention by blocking the hormonal effects of the aldosterone hormone.

studies that confirm that liquorice root extract can provide several skin benefits. Its glycyrrhizin compound provides anti-microbial, anti-fungal and anti-inflammatory properties that are highly beneficial for skin health. Here are just some of the ways liquorice root, can support the skin: •

Reduces hyperpigmentation: Liquorice for skin pigmentation works by the action of liquiritin that inhibits the free radical and prevents the production of excess melanin in the skin cells.

Anticancer Potential Recent studies have recognised the chemo-preventive potential of this medicinal herb. Polyphenols found in this herb have been observed to induce apoptosis. A 2004 study focusing on human breast cancer has concluded that this root might have the potential to aid against cancer. Another paper published in the Cancer Science journal recognises isoliquiritigenin, a flavonoid from this root, as a promising chemo-preventive agent against colon cancer.

•

Reduces acne and scars: Liquorice root for acne and scars works by regulating the production of sebum. Licochalcone in Liquorice root extract controls the excessive production of oil in the skin, while its antibacterial action reduces acne lesions.

•

Brightens the skin: Liquorice extract also prevents the overproduction of melanin and helps in skin whitening.

•

Protection from sun damage: Ageing and wrinkles are common when the skin gets exposed to the sun. Liquorice root extracts contain the UV blocking enzymes that protect skin against sun damage.

•

Anti-inflammatory: Due to its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial benefits liquorice is also useful in treating conditions such as psoriasis and eczema.

Chronic Fatigue Syndrome A book titled, Natural Treatments for Chronic Fatigue Syndrome, authored by Daivati Bharadwaj, states that liquorice is useful in preventing the malfunction of the adrenal glands, which are responsible for the production of hormones such as cortisol to manage stress in the body and help in improving its overall function. Dr James Wilson, who is considered a leading world authority in the treatment of chronic fatigue syndrome praises liquorice as a powerful active in the treatment of this conditions. Boosts Immunity Liquorice aids in improving the immune defence mechanism of the body. It also helps in elevating the levels of interferon, an anti-viral agent which, along with glycyrrhizinic acid, stimulates the action of immune cells and helps in combating the infectious bacteria, and viruses such as influenza A. Liquorice is effective in providing relief from HIV-related diseases. Studies have shown that the glycyrrhizin present in its roots helps in inhibiting the proliferation of the infecting virus by encouraging the production of beta-chemokines. It also helps in preventing the destruction of white blood cells by the HIV virus and strengthens the immune mechanism of the body. Treats Infections Glycyrrhizic acid contained in liquorice is effective in treating various viral, fungal and bacterial infections. Research studies have revealed its antiviral effect and its constituents in inhibiting the growth of the herpes virus. Merrily Kuhn in her book, Winston & Kuhn’s Herbal Therapy and Supplements: A Scientific and Traditional Approach, stated that the infection-fighting property of liquorice has been found beneficial in the treatment of shingles, which is caused by the varicella-zoster virus, the same virus that causes chickenpox. Fights Obesity Liquorice extracts may also be effective in preventing obesity. The anti-obesity action of its flavonoid oil indicated a significant reduction in the presence of abdominal adipose tissues and triglycerides levels of the body. Remember, it is the extract, not the confectionery type that is full of sugar. Reduces Depression A study published in the Journal of Molecular Sciences has provided supporting evidence regarding the efficacy of liquorice constituents in combating pre and post-menopausal depression in women. It contains essential minerals such as magnesium, calcium, and beta-carotene, along with beneficial flavonoids that help in fighting depression. LIQUORICE BENEFITS FOR THE SKIN What about topical application within skincare? There are several

SIDE EFFECTS OF LIQUORICE As we have seen, liquorice contains glycyrrhiza, also known as glycyrrhizic acid. While these compounds can be highly beneficial for both systemic and skin health, they can lead to side effects in some cases if ingested in high doses. These effects include body fatigue, irregular menstruation, oedema, and kidney disorders. Let us look at them: Hypertension and Cardiac Disorders: If taken in large doses liquorice can result in hypertension and heart complications such as cardiac arrhythmia and congestive heart failure in some individuals. People with an existing condition of hypertension and cardiac disorders should be check with their physician when it comes to their consumption of liquorice. Hormonal Conditions: Liquorice has an oestrogenic effect in the body and while beneficial is small quantities, if taken in high doses it may worsen hormone-sensitive conditions such as breast cancer, uterine fibroids, and ovarian cancer. Pregnancy and Breast Feeding: Excessive consumption of liquorice is not recommended during pregnancy, as it might result in fatal consequences such as pre-term delivery or miscarriage. Drug Interactions: Liquorice may also interact with diuretic medication as well as corticosteroids, such as prednisone and affect the level of cortisol hormone, which are responsible for handling stress in the body. However, liquorice is also available devoid of glycyrrhiza, also known as deglycyrrhizinated liquorice, has been suggested to cause fewer side effects. While excess oral consumption may cause health problems, liquorice can be beneficial in supporting several health conditions, used in moderation, it helps in promoting the effects of other herbs and aids in the induction of calmness and peace. On the other hand, included in skincare for topical application liquorice has several proven benefits. APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

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RESEARCH

Vaping and the Skin Prof. Terry Everitt

ARE YOUR CLIENTS VAPING INTO PREMATURE AGEING, thinking vaping a better choice than smoking? Electronic cigarettes (E-cigarettes or commonly known as vaping) are increasingly popular in Australia, with mounting evidence that e-cigarettes are not benign and can pose significant health risks (Larcombe et al., 2021). Electronic cigarettes (e-cigarettes) are a recent development, patented by the Chinese pharmacist, Hon Lik, in 2003, as a replacement for cigarette smokers to help smoking cessation, however much as changed. E-cigarettes have evolved as a product group since first entering the market, with products now ranging from early 'first generation' devices that resemble cigarettes, to second and third-generation devices that enable users to modify characteristics of the device, such as adjusting the voltage (NHMRC, 2020). Most users now are not using e-cigarettes (vaping) as smoking cessation. More significant numbers of younger adults take up

vaping as a social peer pressure construct and currently being a 'gateway' to smoking in youth. E-cigarettes are associated with several significant health consequences, including cardiovascular and respiratory impacts, nicotine harms and addiction, toxic effects of flavours, psychological and social effects (Lempert, & Halpern-Felsher, 2021). As I note below, in Australia, the Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) regulates e-cigarettes containing nicotine, but not those that do not contain nicotine; these are unregulated in most states, and no devices are approved for therapeutic use (Larcombe et al., 2021). A battery (usually lithium) operated heating coil vaporises a liquid solution into an aerosol that is then inhaled. The solution is made of nicotine, flavouring, and a solvent, commonly made of glycerine and polyethylene glycol (more details below in Chemicals). STUDIES CONFIRM SKIN HARM As skin practitioners, we play a crucial role in educating patients about the risks of tobacco and encouraging smoking cessation, and now this extends to education regarding vaping and e-cigarettes. The relationship between smoking and premature skin ageing was first described more than 150 years ago and is supported by epidemiological studies and in vitro experiments. Regarding skin, smoking is associated with a plethora of harmful effects, such as premature wrinkling, delayed wound healing, increased risk of skin infections. Increase in cutaneous malignancies and tissue necrosis and worsening of chronic inflammatory skin conditions (Mitri et al., 2021).

(Famiglietti, Memoli, J., & Khaitan, 2021, p. 386). APJ 90

Pryor & Stone (1993) estimated that one puff of cigarette smoke possesses 1017 free radicals that trigger an inflammatory response with systemic manifestations. Model (1985) defined the classic "smoker's face" consisting of prominent wrinkles, bony contours, and an atrophic grey appearance with a plethoric complexion.

We all know that smoking affects facial appearance, independent of sun exposure and age, with elastosis due to smoking on the fibroblast functioning (Purcell et al., 2021). Studies are conflicted with acne and smoking; however, one study found a higher prevalence of comedonal post-adolescent acne in women who were smokers compared with non-smokers (Capitanio et al., 2010). In an extensive retrospective cohort analysis, Garg et al. (2018) found that the incidence of hidradenitis suppurativa in smokers is double that of non-smokers (overall incidence of HS was 0·20% among tobacco smokers 0·11% among non-smokers.

It is possible to get thermal burns without the device catching fire. Due to faulty internal thermal regulation, the battery can rise in temperature, resulting in a thermal contact burn, made worse if combined with a chemical burn, which can be up to 4% of body size (Ramirez et al., 2017). Of the thirty patients in this study, twentysix patients required hospital admission and nine required surgeries. A year later than Ramirez et al., Maraqa et al. (2018) reported burn cases from E-cigarettes resulting in partial and full-thickness burns.

Smoking is a well-established risk factor for psoriasis, particularly plaque psoriasis, confirmed by a meta-analysis of thirty-four studies (Gazel et al., 2020), who also found smokers were also less likely to respond to six months of medical treatment for psoriasis. While vaping is less problematic than tobacco smoking, skin concerns remain as above, with evidence that vaping increases reactive oxygen species and matrix metalloproteinases (MMP)-1, -2, -3, -7, and - 8 while decreasing antioxidants, increasing endothelial damage, and increasing plasma viscosity (Yanbaeva et al., 2007). E-cigarettes decrease cell viability, thereby changing the ultrastructure of the skin and stimulating the release of proinflammatory cytokines (IL-6, IL-8, and IL-10) in human keratinocytes (Cervellati et al., 2014). IMPACT ON HEALTH There is no question that e-cigarettes have negative health impacts for users and non-users of tobacco and nicotine. There is overwhelming evidence detailing that e-cigarettes have harmful health effects in the short term. In contrast, the impact of longterm health effects, particularly on the developing body and mind, may not be fully understood for decades (Walley & Wilson, 2021). Cervellati et al. (2014) showed that because of e-cigarettes vapours, keratinocytes released a pro-inflammatory cytokines/ chemokine cascade (IL-1rα, IL-10, G-CSF, IFN-γ, RANTES, TNF-α and VEGF), resulting in upregulation of inflammatory response in the skin. The association with skin cancers is less clear with smoking and vaping, with numerous studies finding contradictory outcomes, although squamous cell carcinoma appears to be a significant concern. What is known is that smoking increases Keratoacanthomas, a benign epithelial tumour, first identified by Miot et al. (2006), with more recent studies showing up to 70% increase of such lesions compared to controls. DERMATITIS AND BURNS The release of nickel from the heating coil used to vaporise the liquid into an aerosol is the cause of atopic dermatitis, mainly in the dominant hand used to hold the e-cigarette, resulting in erythematous, scaly, and pruritic patches.

(Hickey et al., 2018, p. 1299).

"Thermal runaway" reactions from battery explosion result in chemical burn injuries to the skin and with airway compromise are not unknown.

(Maraqa et al., 2018, p. 1045, 20year-old male showing 16% total body area burn)

ORAL MUCOSA DAMAGE Oral mucosa is affected via nicotine stomatitis, a grey or white colour change to the hard palate that may lead to mucosal thickening and fissuring. Hyperplastic candidiasis, commonly due to Candida albicans, may proliferate from the oral pH alteration by the flavouring agents in ecigarette liquids. Lingua villosa nigra, or black hairy tongue (BHT), presents with elongation of the filiform papillae and discolouration of the tongue (Visconti, & Ashack, 2019).

E–cigarette-induced oral pH changes, mucosal drying effects, high intraoral temperatures, changes in membrane barriers and immune responses, and(or) altered resistance to fungal and viral infections may contribute to the development of BHT. 137 In addition, e-cigarettes may be associated with oral lichen planus because propylene glycol and its breakdown products in e-liquids are thought to trigger these lichenoid reactions. PSYCHOLOGICAL HARM The more considerable danger to health is not skin, yet psychological. While various chemicals cause neural damage, scientific studies have not defined how some of these chemicals found in vaping products directly affect neurotransmission before the brain fully develops. Such have lasting impacts on the central nervous system, long-term behavioural changes, and neuronal plasticity changes—big concern with the uptake of such products in adolescent age groups. PASSIVE EXPOSURE Durmowicz, Rudy, and Chen (2016) undertook a systematic review of 16 studies, concluded that e-cigarette vapour has the potential to pose a health risk to bystanders, although lower than that posed by conventional cigarette smoke. Common symptoms reported exposed to e-cigarettes included respiratory difficulties, eye irritation, headache, nausea and sore throat or throat irritation. THE TGA STANCE Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) revised the entry for nicotine in Schedule 4 to the Poisons Standard under the Therapeutic Goods Act 1989 was amended to capture all nicotine vaping products as prescription-only medicines. Since Oct 1, 2021, in Australia, it has been illegal to import nicotine vaping products (for sale or own use) without a valid prescription from an Australian doctor with a range of enforcement options, including infringement notices, enforceable undertakings, and court action. Australian Border Force has the power to destroy such products on entry to Australia. Nicotine vaping products are a prescript drug from Australian pharmacies only via a doctor's prescribed direction.

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There are no TGA approved nicotine vaping products in the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods (ARTG). However, nonnicotine vaping products are available as these do not need TGA approval (TGA 2021). While no nicotine vaping products are on the ARTG, non ARTG products are allowed (with prescription). Therapeutic Goods (Standard for Nicotine Vaping Products (TGO 110) Order 2021 includes minimum safety and quality requirements for unapproved nicotine vaping products. In 2017 the Australian National Health and Medical Research Centre concluded that there is currently insufficient evidence to support claims that e-cigarettes are safe. Further research is needed to enable the long-term safety, quality, and efficacy of ecigarettes to be assessed. You can access the 2017 NHMRC statement at https://www.nhmrc.gov.au/about-us/resources/ceostatement-electronic-cigarettes; the updated version is currently expected in 2022. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION In an Australian Study, Larcombe et al. (2021) furthered previous studies on the chemical composition of e-cigarettes available in Australia, purchased from online and physical stores.

2-chlorophenol can be an acutely toxic chemical used in disinfectants and insecticides. Depicting the deleterious effects of conventional cigarette use and electronic cigarette use/vaping. (Famiglietti, Memoli, J., & Khaitan, 2021, p. 391). Of concern is the variation of chemicals available in the differing ecigarettes and the dangers these can cause, complicated by the heating/cooling/ageing process that affect e-liquid chemical composition, causing more chemical reactions and potential damage.

The results are amazing and frightening. E-liquids typically consist of a glycerol and propylene glycol base, flavourings, nicotine, and other chemicals that are heated, aerosolised, and inhaled. One significant finding was that the chemical composition changed from the 'fresh' product to the 'aged' product after heating and cooling, typical of vaping.

National Drug Strategy Household Survey (NDSHS) 2019 •

Nicotine is found in many samples that were supposed to be nicotine-free (thus not under TGA approvals), and samples frequently had little correlation to chemicals stated on labels.

current use of e-cigarettes reported by people aged eighteen and over increased from 1.2% in 2016 to 2.6% in 2019

•

Researchers found a range of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) —large hydrocarbons associated with thermal degradation; most, yet not all, PAHs are known or suspected carcinogens, and exposure linked with a range of adverse health effects in humans (Kim et al., 2013).

among current smokers aged eighteen and over, 2 in 5 (38%) had tried e-cigarettes in their lifetime (an increase from 31% in 2016), and 9.6% currently use them (an increase from 4.4% in 2016)

•

among non-smokers aged eighteen and over, 6.8% had tried e-cigarettes in their lifetime (a rise from 4.7% in 2016), and 1.4% currently use them (an increase from 0.6% in 2016)

•

e-cigarette use was higher among younger age groups, with 64% of smokers aged 18–24 trying an e-cigarette in their lifetime, compared with 26% of smokers aged 60–69 (AIHW 2020b).

•

The most common reason for trying e-cigarettes for people aged eighteen and over was curiosity (53%), but people's reasons varied by age (AIHW 2021, Jul 21).

Other chemicals found were nicotine, nicotyrine, 2-chlorophenol, phenol and flavouring chemicals (menthol, eugenol, thymol, benzaldehyde, trans-cinnamaldehyde, ethyl vanillin, ethyl maltol, furfural, 4-( 4-methoxyphenyl)- 2- butanone), along with pulegone, or synthetic "coolants" such as N-ethyl-p-menthane-3carboxamide. The solvent and flavour enhancer, Benzyl alcohol, was commonly found with levels of up to 1687 mg/L. We know that this chemical is a skin allergen causing elicits severe reactions in some people at levels less than found in the e-liquids (Larcombe et al., 2021). You can see the complete chemical factory found in e-cigarettes in Australia in the study. Benzaldehyde, added to e-liquids for its almond-like flavour, reduces phagocytosis, and is an inhalation irritant. It also reacts with propylene glycol in e-liquids, producing aldehyde propylene glycol acetals that activate airway irritant receptors (Gerhold, & Bautista, 2008). Menthol enhances the addictive properties of nicotine and inhibits nicotine metabolism (Valentine et al., 2018). Trans-Cinnamaldehyde impairs innate immune cell function in the lung, suppresses bronchial airway epithelial cell ciliary motility and mitochondrial function, inhibits microsomal CYP2A6, impairs neutrophil, macrophage and natural killer cell function (Clapp, Lavrich, & van Heusden, 2019).

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It is important to note that while e-cigarettes contain various carcinogenic compounds and have shown to play a role in dysregulated carcinogenesis, lung homeostasis and various other internal complications to health, this article has kept to the dangers of e-cigarettes and what we know concerning skin health. It is no longer adequate to ask your clients if they smoke – now need to know if they vape - some patients using e-cigarettes do not consider themselves smokers and answer "no" when asked about smoking during a consultation. APJ

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TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS

WINNING TIPS FOR OPTIMISING STAFF PRODUCTIVITY With all the business disruption because of lockdown and other restrictions salons and clinics will need to ensure that their team’s productivity is optimised as we enter the busiest season of the year. However, a recent report we conducted confirmed that employee productivity has been dwindling, to the frustration of many business owners. Here’s what employee productivity really is, why it is important, how you can measure it, calculate it, and, most importantly, how you can increase it. WHAT IS EMPLOYEE PRODUCTIVITY? Employee productivity can be simply defined as the measure of an individual employee’s output. This should not be measured by how many hours a staff member is busy with servicing clients (as this would be classified as workforce productivity), but rather what financial contribution their efforts have generated. In other words what is their return on your investment in you employing them. Let’ look at the importance of employee productivity: The purpose of any business is to be

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financially viable if it is to be successful, therefore employee productivity can make or break the success of a business. Two factors determine whether employees are successful at their work: 1. Productivity – the quality of work they produce and complete 2. Effectiveness – the amount of effort put into that work Some people may spend a lot of time finishing a small amount of work – these people are more effective than productive. Other people may finish a lot of work in a small amount of time – these people are more productive than effective. You should always make the most out of both your productivity and your effectiveness – aim to put maximum effort into your work, and finish as much work as you can in an as short amount of time as possible. There are several benefits to high employee productivity that prove its importance in your business – if employees are productive, the business: •

becomes more profitable

•

the businsess grows

•

it meets consumer demand

•

it remains competitive.

In summary, high employee productivity ensures a company remains relevant and viable in the marketplace. HOW TO MEASURE EMPLOYEE PRODUCTIVITY To measure employee productivity, you’ll first need to talk with your employees and define a standard against which you’ll compare individual employee results as each business is different. Here are a few benchmark suggestions: 1. Measuring their input against return: For example, if you are paying them $30 per hour the sales and the tasks they perform should bring you a return of 4-6 times their daily salary figure. This can be achieved by the type of treatments they are performing as well as the number of product sales they are achieving. You can measure this by determining the number of sales per month. 2. Measuring goals met: Do you measure financial return or units sold? It is best to establish goals based on securing a target number of clients the staff member services each month

Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome

with a financial target attached rather than only just revenue secured. Why is this more important? Because by increasing the number of clients they service will provide you with a higher potential for increased revenue. On the other hand, you may gain a client who spends $5000 as a pre-paid package, while this transaction may give you a financial boost, this revenue will need to extend over several weeks as it will possible be covering several treatments for which the client will need to return to receive with no additional income. 3. Measuring profit: When setting financial targets, it is also important as the business owner to consider the cost factor against each treatment or product sold. For example, a skincare product that gives you an 80% markup would not provide you with as much revenue as one that provides you with 150% markup. A treatment that is requires very little consumables to deliver, such as a massage, may provide you with less review ($100) but greater profits than a high-cost treatment to deliver, that may bring you $120, but the cost of delivering it in consumables may be say $45. CALCULATING YOUR EMPLOYEE PRODUCTIVITY To understand how you can increase employee productivity, you should calculate the current state of employee productivity first. There are various ways to do this, but the most common method usually involves comparing the employee’s performance against the relative cost he or she brings to the company – the ultimate goal is to receive more value from the employee than he or she is paid. Here are four steps to help you in establishing this: Step 1: Define a standard You’ll measure all your levels of production against the standard by which you will measure performance. Step 2: Determine how much time you have in a workweek If you have a five-day workweek, with a daily norm of eight hours, you have 40

hours, or 2400 minutes of time every week. Step 3: Subtract all “unproductive” time from your workweek This includes all your lunch breaks, short breaks, meetings, and similar activities. For example, if you spend about 30 minutes on your lunch break, 30 minutes on short breaks, and 1 hour on meetings every day, that’s 10 hours or 500 minutes you should subtract from your total workweek time. That leaves a clean 1,900 minutes of time you’re productive.

offices with white walls – instead, opt soft pastels, beige, green or blue to boosts creativity. Optimise working conditions: If you want to make your employees productive, you’ll need to make sure they’re working in optimal conditions. •

Block time for emails

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Write short, simple email instructions

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Don’t email employees in the middle of the night or on weekends

Step 4: Calculate the percentage Divide the number of available productive time (1,900) with the number of available work time per week (2,400), then multiply by 100 to get your productivity percentage (1,900/2,400*100 = 79%).

Provide better employee training: Training and development help improve employee knowledge, and then their work performance, by extension. •

When calculating your productivity percentage, remember two important things:

Use specialised software to simplify processes

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Implement hands-on training to improve their skills

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Understand the learning pace of individual employees and allow them to learn at their own pace

1. You can never be 100% productive. 2. Your productivity percentage is only the ideal figure – the employees will need to focus and avoid distractions to reach the company’s maximum productivity percentage of 79%. HOW TO INCREASE EMPLOYEE PRODUCTIVITY IN THE WORKPLACE To increase employee productivity in the workplace, consider the benefits of implementing the following steps: Improve workplace conditions: 1. Ensure as much natural light as possible: Did you know that employees who work in an office with windows and enough natural light sleep 46 minutes more at night, they’re more rested and more likely to focus when they come to work. 2. Introduce detoxifying plants: Green plants make employees more comfortable, and thus more productive with their work. Consider Peace lily or Sansevieria as they are also air purifying plants. 3. Add colour to your walls: Employees make more errors when they work in

Stop micromanagement in task delegation: Task delegation is productive, but managers often cannot let go of tasks they’ve given to others – so they micromanage every detail, rendering task delegation pointless. Studies confirm that as much as 85% of employees feel demoralised by micromanagement – constant supervision makes them lose faith in their abilities, and they perform sub-par. •

Explain task expectations

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Explain task requirements

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Delegate tasks and don’t look back

Improve office communication: In teamwork, good collaboration leads to optimal productivity and efficacy, and good collaboration stems from good communication and feedback. •

Build teamwork purposefully. This does happen by accident. You can start by hosting casual get-together from time to time – throw an office party, initiate an employee outing, organise a team-building paintball match. When new employees arrive,

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TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS make as a business owner and guide your plan for the future. The key actions in this phase are: •

conduct a competitor analysis

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do a SWOT analysis

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create your customer personas

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work out your brand promise

Phase two: Re-position Phase two helps you to tackle your online presence to reflect your business values, serve your customers better and generate more business. The key actions in this phase are: • update your Google My Business listing

make sure they feel welcome in the workplace, and equal with their new colleagues. •

Find the ideal means of communication.

Encourage self-care Encouraging employees to take care of themselves goes a long way in encouraging employees to care about their tasks and projects. •

Encourage the use of health insurance benefits

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Offer beneficial self-care courses

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Recognise employee accomplishments

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Implement appropriate breaks

CONCLUSION Once you’ve understood the importance of employee productivity for the success of your company, you’ll need to implement the right steps to measure, calculate, and most importantly, increase this valuable business resource. To do so, you’ll need to pay equal attention to what’s beneficial for your company and what’s beneficial for your employees – make sure you improve workplace conditions, communication, employee training, refrain from micromanaging everything and don’t forget to also encourage self-care. APJ

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AN ONLINE MARKETING ROADMAP FOR YOUR BUSINESS POSTLOCKDOWN As Australian gets closer to the Government’s vaccination target and prepares to bid farewell to recurring lockdowns, you need to consider what steps you will take to best manage and market your business in a post-lockdown context. The consumer market has changed and adapting your online marketing will ensure a successful return to operating your business. Navii is an Australian Governmentbacked, independent community of small business owners, industry and digital experts doing what they can to help businesses use digital tools and systems to operate more efficiently. It has created an online roadmap that outlines three key steps small business owners can take over the coming weeks to reignite their operations as efficiently as possible and so they can hit the ground running. Phase one: Re-evaluate Phase one is all about strategic planning and re-evaluating your identity as a business, who your customers are and what your opportunities are in a postlockdown market. The activities you complete in this step should help to inform the decisions you

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create an automatic thank you email inviting customers to leave more reviews

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reply to any past reviews that you haven’t yet responded to

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create a list of calls-to-action for your marketing channels

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refresh your Facebook cover image and caption

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update your Instagram bio and business name

Phase three: Re-engage The final phase of preparation is reengaging your staff and your customers in the post-lockdown context. Your processes and the guidelines that you are permitted to work within may have changed, so you need to consider how you will respond to these changes and how you can communicate effectively with your audience. Phases one and two lay the groundwork for the communication you will be doing in phase three, so it is important that you have worked through that content first. The key actions for this step are: • re-engage your employees •

re-engage your clients

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be proactive instead of reactive by preparing for the unknown

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manage expectations of your customers and staff

Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome

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stay mindful and maintain a mentally healthy workplace

We recommend allocating one week for each phase to give yourself enough time to complete your priority actions. You can also download the free PDF version which also includes a directory of all the different state and territory guidelines and mandatory requirements including safety plans and contact tracing QR code registration. For further information visit: https:// business.gov.au/news/an-onlinemarketing-roadmap-for-your-businesspost-lockdown APJ

to reach your original revenue goals, you’d need to sell twice as much. Would you be able to do that and meet your quotas? The pricing of your products should carefully factor in certain costs and risks like product damage, potential increases in ingredient pricing, employee salaries, marketing fees, giveaways, shipping and much more. Discounting your products can really hurt your brand’s profit margins and leave your business at risk in the long run. Here are just three potential risks with discounting: It creates an expectation of future discounting: Once you’ve opened the door of discounting, many clients will wait until your next sale before making another purchase. If you find your clients only purchasing during sales, that’s totally on you. It’s very easy to train them to shop only during sales. Instead of encouraging bad habits, why not lead your clients to respect and value your products at their full price? Your brand and your products are worth it. Embody that mindset. Your reputation for the long run is impacted: Clients perceive the actual value of a product by the price they pay for it. By discounting your product, you’re also discounting the perceived value of your brand.

WHY YOU SHOULD THINK TWICE BEFORE DISCOUNTING YOUR PRODUCTS With so much revenue lost due to lockdowns businesses are keen to return to work and entice their clients to invest in their products and services. Discounting has always been a popular strategy aiming at improving purchases, however, this is a practice that is inadvisable for our industry as it can dramatically cut into profits particularly with skincare. Running a successful business isn’t easy. As a brand owner, if you choose to discount your products by 50%, how will that impact your sales revenue? To be able

You may start cutting corners: Brands that are constantly discounting their products need to find other ways to keep their businesses lucrative. Most of the time that involves cutting corners to lower their costs like sourcing from lowerquality manufacturers that ends up lowering the overall quality of what they sell. Don’t be that brand. If things are truly at a slump and you must discount, experts recommend that you carefully plan only two Discount Campaigns a year and make sure your clients understand that this is not something they can rely on happening regularly as your intention is to provide them with optimal value and discounts can sometimes erase that. Educate your clients about your commitment to quality.

WINNING PROMOTIONAL STRATEGIES TO INCREASE SKINCARE SALES THAT DON’T INVOLVE DISCOUNTING So, if you are not going to revert to discounting what are proven strategies that can help you increase sales without devaluing your brand? Here are a few to consider: 1. Bundles Offering bundles is a strategy that provides value to your clients who choose to buy multiple products from you. Bundles, like gift sets and package deals, are ideal for buyers looking for good deals or simply convenience. Companies that are big on product bundles often dedicated an entire tab called “Save on Sets” where they show exactly how much customers can save when they buy one. By offering a small discount on a set of several products you make your clients feel like they’re getting more value while generating sales for your business. Another great benefit of offering bundles is that it also ends up promoting products that your clients may have otherwise never thought about buying, for example combining

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TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS a body or sunscreen product in with their skincare. 2. Points programs A client loyalty program or rewards program is a marketing strategy that rewards loyal clients that frequently engage with a brand. The points system focuses on the principle of the more you spend, the more points you’ll earn in return. Every time a client makes a purchase, they get a certain amount of points depending on how much they spent that they can use to earn exclusive perks. One company created a faithful customer base using Clique, their points program that offers exclusive discounts on their products using the Swell Rewards platform. They earn these after reaching certain monthly purchase amounts, leaving reviews on their products, and following their social media accounts. Talk to your software company as often these programs are built-in to your client registration and booking program. Utilising these tools is easy and fun. Another common practice is the twotier rewards program. After a client spends $500, customers have access to a Platinum VIP program that comes with free goodies, early access to sales, and free delivery if a client wishes something to be posted to them. 3. Consultation promos An in-depth skin analysis takes 45 minutes to an hour and usually comes at a charge. However, as it only involves time you can introduce is as a “Consultation promo” especially if you are introducing a new treatment to your business. This is a great promotion idea for salons and clinics who provide expert advice not just treatments. There’s no single way to offer a consultation promo—it can involve a simple 10-15 minute consulting

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session with the therapist with a purchase of $200 or with a purchase of a deluxe comprehensive skincare set. Offering a quick consultation like a skin analysis or a makeup tutorial can excite customers to make a purchase and receive personalised value by purchasing from you. During the consultation, you’ll also be able to get more information about your clients, understand who they are, and find out what their main concerns are in order to serve them better in the future. Makeup brands can offer masterclass tutorials with a qualified makeup artists in exchange for certain purchase amounts. Another benefit of offering a free consultation is that you have the chance to recommend more of your products that can help them, leading to more sales. The client will also walk away with a more intimate connection to your business. Next Level: This is a great strategy for skin professionals who want to serve their audiences digitally. #socialdistancinganyone? 4. Referral programs Most business owners would agree that word of mouth is the best way to grow your business. Using referral marketing apps is a way to encourage customers to tell their network about your brand in the digital sphere. A recent study found that 83% of clients are willing to refer a business’s services if they’re happy with their products. The reality is that only 29% of those people actually end up making the referral. That’s why creating an affiliate network for your e-commerce store is an essential step to growing your brand. Here is a simple way to set this up based on “Milestone Referral

Campaign” that features four different milestones with different instant prizes. 1. Referring 1 friend = receive free lipstick of your choice 2. Referring 5 friends = receive a free skincare product Referring 10 friends = free facial treatment Referring 15 friends = free body treatment 3. Affiliation systems are incredibly useful if you know how to use them to your advantage. 5. Create urgency We all know that scarcity can lead to an increase in that “must-have” feeling and create a greater sense of value for an item. By setting up a deadline for your promotion or products, you can incentivise clients to take immediate action and to relieve their fears of missing out. Biossance, a popular skincare brand, recently featured a promotion that included a free face oil and night serum with the purchase of one of their most expensive serums. Creating a “Limited-time offer”. The most successful way to achieve this is to make the reward the real value of the purchase. However, the purchase could be a body treatment pack of three, helping you secure more bookings. 6. Up-sell, Down-sell, Cross-sell When a client is on your website, they’re in the mood to shop. This is your best chance to excite them about buying something. Up-selling, downselling, and cross-selling are age-old strategies that increase the 1) average order value and 2) lifetime value of a customer. How? By presenting related products at higher prices (upselling), lower prices (down selling), and unrelated products (cross-selling) that clients may be interested in. Digital

Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome

marketer Carl Ocab said, “many marketers swear that real profits are not in the first sale, but rather in the up-sell, cross-sell or down-sell.” The ideal strategy is creating a “related products” category in product descriptions or an abandoned cart email. This is one of the most commonly used strategies, and yet it’s still one of the most effective. Think about how often this occurs: •

Fast food cashiers asking: “would you like fries with that?”

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Candy bars and magazines at the cash register in grocery stores.

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Shoe companies that sell socks in the same aisle.

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Related product sections in product pages.

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Beauty-on-the-go section at Sephora.

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Lip balm or hand creams at salon reception counters. APJ

the Restoration Fund raised over $1.7 million and American Express card use rose 27%. One study found that more than 9 in 10 consumers are likely to switch brands to one associated with a good cause, assuming comparable quality and pricing.

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Boosts to your brand awareness

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Increases sales and/ or market share

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Increases customer loyalty

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Greater differentiation between you and your competitors

Nonprofits can potentially benefit from the increased fundraising and exposure that CRM offers. Such partnerships, however, must be carefully considered as they can pose risks to both parties' reputations. For example, a worthy cause could be cheapened if consumers see the CRM as crass commercialism. Look instead to some examples of successful partnerships at Selfish Giving. Another good resource is the book Designing for the greater good: the best in cause-related marketing and nonprofit design, which has numerous examples from causerelated campaigns plus 24 case studies and insights into great nonprofit branding campaigns.

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Enhances staff engagement, loyalty and advocacy

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Gain access to new audience groups

Here is some interesting information on the benefits of getting involved in a CRM program: CRM benefits more than the bottom line:

Why a CRM? • 86% of consumers believe that companies should take a stand for social issues and 64% of those who said it’s‘extremely important’ for a company to take a stand on a social issue said they were‘very likely’ topurchase a product based on that commitment. (2018 Shelton Group's 'Brands & Stands: Social Purpose is the New Black') •

Nearly two-thirds of millennials and Gen Z express a preference for brands that have a point of view and stand for something. (Kantar's 2018 'Purpose 2020' Report).

If you are considering supporting a campaign here are a few suggestions:

CAUSE RELATED MARKETING

1. Mental Health Month. Check out charities in your state and raise funds to support them.

Compassion is a powerful and very much appreciated attribute. As we are part of the personal services industry our clients connect with us not just for the benefit of their appearance, but also because we also share similar values with them - such as giving back to a community cause. So, one way to demonstrate your values and ethics is by allowing your business to contribute a percentage of a product sale to a good cause. Cause Related Marketing (CRM) is a partnership between a company and a non-profit organisation that has the DUAL goals of enhancing the company's performance while contributing to the important work of the charitable cause.

2. Support a women’s refuge centre for domestic violence – every state has a refuge centre.

American Express first coined the term in 1983 to describe its campaign to raise money for the Statue of Liberty's restoration. American Express donated one cent to the restoration every time someone used its charge card. As a result,

3. Skin Cancer Australia – Offer skin cancer education, or implement a SunSmart program and raise funds. 4. Starlight Children’s Foundation – support this charity and brighten the lives of sick children. Aligning your business with a charity of your choice will allow you to create a positive partnership to engage your clients with and its a great way to support a cause, while adding long-term value to your business. APJ

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DENTISTRY

A EST HE TIC RE G EN E R AT I V E D E N T I S T R Y

TAKING A HOLISTIC APPROACH TO ORAL CARE AT ANY AGE DR. FADI YASSMIN

DENTISTRY HAS COME A LONG WAY and some of the latest developments include the evolution of dental techniques that are integrated with aesthetic and regenerative medicine, ensuring that any enhancement improves the functionality of the teeth and not just their aesthetic appeal. However, the latest advances take a more in-depth and clinical approach to the health of teeth, bones and gums as they relate to overall health and longevity. Dr Fadi Yassmin is a new-generation dentist and dental implant practitioner based in Sydney. Dr Yassmin is leading the way through his innovative techniques that are taking aesthetic dentistry one step further. In this article he shares the foundations of his approach and how aesthetic regenerative dentistry is now also providing greater support to overall health.

Just as aesthetic medicine applies various modalities to skin health, the emerging field of aesthetic regenerative dentistry takes a holistic approach to dental longevity. Addressing aesthetic imbalances is no longer just a matter of the ‘quick fix’ offered by placing crowns or veneers. It also involves having the gums in the ideal position. If there’s receding gums or bone loss – both of which occur commonly with ageing – these must be regenerated first, so the final aesthetic outcome is perfect. Aesthetic regenerative dentistry can therefore be broken down into two separate components. First comes the regenerative procedures, which involve regenerating bones and tissue to provide a stable, long-term positioning of the teeth and gums. Some of these procedures might include:

When we think of the visible signs of ageing, the focus is often on the skin. However, aesthetic medicine has advanced numerous technologies and procedures to maintain a youthful-looking complexion. But this is only one component. Just like the skin, the tissue and bones in the mouth are also impacted by both intrinsic and extrinsic ageing processes. Gum disease, dental decay and general ‘wear and tear’ can result in discoloration, tooth loss and compromised gum tissue. Importantly, the state of wellbeing of our mouth is the starting point of our overall health as the mouth is the starting point of digestion with oral enzymes playing an active role in breaking down carbohydrates we eat to sugar. Essentially, the digestive tract starts at the mouth and ends at the anus. There is a proven relationship between oral wellness and overall health. For example, diabetes mellitus has been shown to be linked with the development and progression of gum disease.

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Vital pulp therapy to preserve, maintain or restore pulp tissue that has been compromised but not destroyed by trauma, or other events.

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Bone grafting to build up or restore bone along specific areas of the jaw that have experienced bone loss.

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Guided tissue regeneration (GTR) therapies to encourage the growth of new gingival tissue.

Next, we use these regenerative procedures as a foundation, strategically applying them to have an aesthetic outcome. These two components often go hand-in-hand and when they do, we generally see superior results. By having optimal tooth position, gingival and bone position, the aesthetic outcome is at a much higher level.

Not only that, but the results can also look more natural, resembling a patient’s own youthful appearance. When performed with care, aesthetic regenerative dentistry allows the dentist to closely match what a patient has lost over time. STEM-CELL THERAPY IN DENTISTRY One of the ultimate goals of regenerative dentistry is to regenerate a whole tooth, and various pioneering technologies are being explored to bring us closer to this result. One of these is the use of dental stem cells (Jamal and Elhussein, 2020). Although still in its early stages, stem-cell technologies are being used or trialed in various ways, including: •

Whole tooth bioengineering using embryonic and adult stem cells

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The use of dental pulp stem cells to treat injured or infected pulp tissue.

BONE AUGMENTQTION WITH EMDOGAIN Emdogain, a mixture of enamel matrix derivatives are used as an osteopromotive agent for bone augmentation and regeneration treatments. Using Emdogain is highly beneficial in post-surery as it modulates and accelerate soft tissue wound repair. VITAMINS AND MINERALS ESSENTIAL FOR ORAL CARE AND SKIN HEALTH A healthy balanced diet is not only good for overall wellbeing but also for oral wellbeing. Key essential nutrients that support overall health and oral health include: Vitamin D, Vitamin K2, Vitamin C, Potassium and Calcium.

THE RIGHT FOUNDATION As with any form of aesthetic medicine, it’s easy for patients to be seduced by the possibilities of science. Just as important, however, is for them to commit to an ongoing program of general oral care and maintenance. We won't proceed with a regenerative treatment until we feel that we've progressed with a patient’s initial hygiene and commitment to the process. That’s a key steppingstone as if the patient is not willing to commit to the first stage of turning their hygiene around, how will they commit to the rest of the treatment plan? Oral hygiene is an important litmus test. Having said that, aesthetic regenerative dentistry and general oral wellness are closely intertwined. Both begin at the basic level of tangible health – of healthy, disease-free teeth and gums – and both are focused on creating an environment that makes a patient happy. About Dr Fadi Yassmin Dr Fadi Yassmin graduated from Sydney University in 1993 and has since then developed a reputation of one of the leading dental implant and cosmetic practitioners in Sydney. With a Masters in Aesthetic Dentistry from Kings College London, is a Master Clinician in Implantology (gIDE UCLA) and a post-graduate diploma in orthodontics from the city of London Dental School, Dr Yassmin ensures that he keeps up to date with all current treatment techniques and that he and his staff are committed to serving the needs of their patients. He is a Digital Smile Design instructor and KOL in the aesthetic space due to his profound knowledge of multidisciplinary treatments. APJ www.fysmile.com.au Instagram: @fy_smile Facebook: FY Smile – Sydney Dentist

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS Carbon Dioxide Laser Followed by Jessner's Peel versus Jessner's Peel Alone for the Treatment of Melasma. Journal of Clinical Aesthetic Dermatology, 14(2), 61–67. I am an avid fan of chemical peels for those who know me; this study result is no surprise. While those with the CO2 plus Jessner has a quicker resolution time, the overall effect in melasma reduction was statistically the same. Chemical peeling is a popular, relatively inexpensive, and generally safe method for treating some skin disorders and refreshing and rejuvenating skin. APJ

CO2 LASER DOES NOT ENHANCE BENEFITS OF JEESSNER’S PEEL FOR MELASMA

A patient with Fitzpatrick Skin Type IV treated by a single session of CO laser followed by six sessions of Jessner's solution peeling experienced marked improvement.

A recent study from Egypt found no significant difference in outcomes for those treated with combination lowpower CO2 laser plus Jessner's peels compared to those treated with Jessner's peels alone for melasma. Group A: a single session of low-power fractional CO2 laser followed by Jessner's solution peeling after two weeks for up to six sessions. Group B: Jessner's solution peeling for up to six sessions at biweekly intervals only. Two independent dermatologists evaluated outcomes using mMASI score calculation and standardised digital photographs at six months follow-up. Group A means mMASI score reduced from 6.01points to 4.22. Group B, the mean mMASI score reduced from 4.42points to 2.69. Group A did have a more rapid improvement; however, statistically, there was no real difference in the overall reduction in mMASI score.

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A) before treatment; B) after treatment A patient with Fitzpatrick Skin Type IV treated with six sessions of Jessner's solution peeling alone experienced good improvement;

LASER-INDUCED OCULAR COMPLICATIONS

A) before treatment; B) after treatment

12.8% of the cases reported eye protection at the time of injury; 28.7% said no eye protection was used, eyes were closed, or fingers were placed over eyes during treatment are some unbelievable outcomes of a study Dermatologic Surgery.

Elmorsy, E., Aboukhadr, N., Tayyeb, M., & Taha, A. (2021). Low-power Fractional

Not surprising, CO2, alexandrite, Nd: YAG, diode, argon and pulsed dye lasers,

Research and Scientific New Developments In every issue of the journal, Terry Everitt our scientific educator, conveys a few items of scientific interest. In italics, are his thoughts on the subject matter of the research study.

and IPL were the most reported as causing ocular injury. The most common complications were ectropion, uveitis, corneal abnormality, corneal burns and pupillary abnormalities, including keyhole deformity. While most results came from the medical profession (57.5%), the non-medical

Of interest, the study showed the left eye was more often affected than the right eye. Researchers posited that this could be because providers typically stand on the patient's right side and must reach over to the left side. Therefore, they have less control of the laser when treating the left side of the face. APJ

TOPICAL AZELAIC ACID FORMULATION AN OPTION FOR INFLAMMATORY ROSACEA

profession use of lasers and IPl is frighteningly high in Australia, and the risk area is real for operators (doctors or not) who do not fully understand the technology. Did you know the retinal hazard region is 400 nm to 1,400 nm? Beyond 700nm, there is no visible light seen, so no protective blink reflex. Eyelid skin does not protect from light at such intensity. What of the palpebral oculogyric reflex (Bell phenomenon)- you have to know about this as rental pigment absorbs more light than skin pigment. While laser and IPL are effective, they remain a dangerous tool for the unaware. Juhasz, M., Zachary, C., & Cohen, J. (2021). Ocular Complications After Laser or Light-Based Therapy—Dangers Dermatologists Should Know. Dermatologic Surgery, 47(5), 624-629. doi: 10.1097/DSS.0000000000002974 More lawsuits are being filed in Australia due to laser damage, and rightly so, with operator fault being the damage causative factor.

suggest for clients to try. Dall’Oglio, F., Tedeschi, A., Lacarrubba, F., Fabbrocini, G., Skroza, N., Chiodini, P., Micali, G. (2021). A novel azelaic acid formulation for the topical treatment of inflammatory rosacea: A multicentre, prospective clinical trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 20 (Supplement 1), 28-31. doi: 10.1111/jocd.14098

1% dihydroavenanthramide D may not be familiar to all – it comes from Oats and is used to control pruritus. APJ

As some may know, I am a great fan of Azelaic acid and use it with patients across many skin conditions regarding pigmentation, erythema and acne. A small study out of Italy of 44 patients over eight weeks who applied a mix of 15% azelaic acid and 1% dihydroavenanthramide D twice daily had a significant decrease in clinical endpoints using EDDP (Erythema-directed digital photography), IGA (Investigator Global Assessment) and ILC (inflammatory lesion count). Erythema and inflammatory lesions had decreased in all patients with high tolerability. Authors are unable to define if the azelaic acid would be sufficient by itself to produce such results. Dihydroavenanthramide D inhibits mast cell degranulation, effective for the itch of psoriasis, with Azelaic acid inhibiting the neutrophil release of ROS species and downregulation of cathelicidin, mainly through the kallikrein- 5 cascade, which in turn inhibits leukocyte chemotaxis, angiogenesis and inflammation. I have only used this in mild-moderate inflammatory rosacea, as I don't think it is strong enough for a stage IV rosacea. Since Azelaic acid is available in Australia now over the counter (need 20%), it would be a helpful addition you could

TOPICAL CORTICOSTEROID USE DURING PREGNANCY Frequently pregnancy is taken as a contraindication to almost everything. This generally is a conservative approach as there is little science to provide safety data of many exposures. However, we know that pregnancy is not a contraindication to most, yet a relative one as I go through many 'taboo' techniques with students showing how safe much is. Another study has shown safe use in pregnancy of previous concern. From Demark, SGA (small gestational age)

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS

and low birth weight were not tied to topical corticosteroid use in pregnancy. The researchers identified 60,498 pregnancies exposed to topical corticosteroids, from mild to potent strength. A control cohort of pregnancies not using topical corticosteroids used to compare, making a significant 1.1 million pregnancies researched between 1997 and 2016. Infants with low birth weight observed in 2006 exposed pregnancies (3.3%) and 8675 unexposed pregnancies (3.6%) A total of 5678 topical corticosteroidexposed pregnancies (9.4%) led to an infant with SGA, vs 22,634 unexposed pregnancies (9.4%). Stratified analysis by each of the most used topical corticosteroids identified no significant increased risks for the outcomes. Analyses did not find a significantly increased risk among those receiving large amounts of potent to very potent topical corticosteroids (i.e., >200 g throughout pregnancy) compared with unexposed pregnancies. The research concluded that "these findings suggest that topical

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corticosteroids, including potent to very potent agents, in large amounts can be used in pregnancy without increased concerns of SGA and low birth weight." Andersson, N. W., Skov, L., & Andersen, J. T. (2021). Evaluation of topical corticosteroid use in pregnancy and risk of newborns being small for gestational age and having low birth weight. JAMA Dermatology, Published online 5 May 2021. doi: 10.1001/ jamadermatol.2021.1090

AUSTRALIAN SURVEILLANCE PROGRAM FOR INDIVIDULAS AT HIGH RISK OF AGGRESSIVE SKIN CANCER

The researchers noted that although the study found no significant increased risk in any of the analyses, residual confounding cannot be excluded. The study did not look at the indication of the prescribed use, nor data regarding adherence to filled prescriptions was unavailable. APJ

This prospective cohort study recruited 593 participants (340 male:253 female) assessed from 2012 to 2018 as having a very high risk of melanoma, with a median of 2.9 years of follow-up, from 4

melanoma high-risk clinics in New South Wales. Of the 171 new melanomas detected, 96% had a Breslow thickness of 1 mm or less, and 67% of melanomas were found

with total-body photography (31%) or sequential digital dermoscopy imaging (29%). Interestingly, the rest were selfdetected by patients or visually by doctors. The study found that the risk of developing a new melanoma was 9.0% annually in the first two years and increased with time, particularly for those with multiple primary melanomas. Guitera, P., Menzies, S., Coates, E., Azzi, A., Fernandez-Penas, P., Lilleyman, A., Badcock, C., Schmid, H., Watts, C., Collgros, H., Liu, R., van Kemenade, C., Mann, G., & Cust, A. (2021). JAMA Dermatology 157(5), 521-530. doi:10.1001/jamadermatol.2020.5651 This study shows the importance of a structured surveillance program for high-risk

patients, including various healthcare professionals. Clinical aestheticians' and dermal therapists are an essential value in this initial melanoma surveillance.

ENZYMES PROTECT THE SKIN BY IGNORING MICROBES AND VIRUSES

gene expression that provides immune tolerance by the skin, essentially ignoring particular microorganisms and the resulting havoc they play in other parts of the body.

The full study details the pathways controlling toll-like receptors (TLRs) proteins that typically trigger an inflammatory response.

We know the skin is constantly exposed to various microorganisms, viruses, bacteria and fungi, but most microbial organisms provoke little or no response from our skin. Why the skin is not constantly inflamed or infected from microorganisms is in doubt, although many possibilities are surmised.

Sawada, Y., Nakatsuji, T., Dokoshi, T., Kulkarni, N., Liggins, M., Sen, G., & Gallo, R. (2021). Cutaneous innate immune tolerance is mediated by epigenetic control of MAP2K3 by HDAC8/9. Science Immunology, 6(59): eabe1935. DOI: 10.1126/sciimmunol.abe1935

The University of California San Diego School of Medicine researchers have shown two enzymes, called histone deacetylases (HDACs), are responsible for protecting our skin and body's overall health from countless potential microbial intruders. The enzymes act on the chromosome of specific skin cells via epigenetic control of

This is one of the first demonstrations of how the microbiome can interact with epigenetic factors in the skin and modulate the skin's behaviour through the inflammatory response Since this epigenetic change is reversible, we can potentially control our skin inflammatory response by targeting these enzymes, unlike alterations to our DNA. APJ

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How to benefit from APAN’S YouTube Channel?

SCROLLING THROUGH SOCIAL MEDIA allows you to capture bits of news and communications of interest, however platforms such as Facebook and Instagram are very mobile and only remain available for a short time before they are removed. Most of you within the APAN community are intelligent practitioners who seek solid educational information that you can turn to at your convenience. We therefore have found another way to support you. APAN has launched our own YouTube Channel where we will regularly share information on all things Aesthetics and have meaningful and inspirational conversations with experts, industry leaders, colleagues, and friends. SOLUTIONS FOR AESTHETICS by APAN will feature industry specific educational topics and new ideas that can help bring hope and shape your thinking in the new season we are facing. Topics will include:

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1. CONSUMER TRENDS 2. BUSINESS STRATEGIES 3. HAVING THE WINNING MINDSET AND MENTAL HEALTH 4. WELLNESS, NUTRITION AND WELLBEING 5. RESEARCH UPDATES Featuring quality educational content and thought-provoking discussions, this channel will also offer valuable information that may be of benefit to your staff and even your clients if you believe a topic will be of value to them to appreciate your services. As a member you can easily access these sessions from our website as they will be available indefinitely for you to visit, view and use as you see fit. APJ Please subscribe to SOLUTIONS FOR AESTHETICS by APAN and stay up-to-date with exciting new developments. YouTube: www.youtube.com/channel/UCTHuYbdRTf9lAcvIDPfFQAQ

I am a proud professional APAN member! I am supported with — Expert advice — Resource documents — Regulatory and business support — Educational conferences — Qualifications’ recognition — Promoting my business on SalonHubAustralia.com.au — Connecting with my community on social — Strong representation for my needs with the Government — Represent what will best serve me within regulations

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info@apanetwork.com

www.apanetwork.com/membership

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