Leaders in Education
Summer Volume 49 2022
Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD.
THE ART AND SCIENCE OF COMPOUNDING
The new revolutionary skincare approach utilising the skin’s microbiome.
APJ 1
SKINCARE WITH AN ATTITUDE A TESTIMONIAL “I am extremely passionate about MEDER. In the 20 years that I have been in the beauty industry, it is the first skincare range that truly resonates with me. I love that it is science-based, results-driven, restores the skin's microbiome, is Pre & Probiotic, ethically sourced and packaged, and created by an incredibly intelligent woman. How could I not love this range! I personally use all of the products, and I have seen such great results with my own skin, not to mention I have been achieving outstanding results with my clients. There is no better feeling than to see people regain their confidence because their skin is healthy. And that is thanks to MEDER!” Mia Bella Advanced Skin & Beauty Sunshine Coast
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THE TRUSTED BRAND FOR PROFESSIONAL, ADVANCED AND TARGETED SKIN THERAPY RESULTS Manufactured in Switzerland under the highest quality-assured standards.
CLINICALLY PROVEN PRE & PROBIOTIC FORMULATIONS Meder Beauty Science offers 6 easily marketable professional treatments to provide solutions for the most skin concerns. The combination of organic plant extracts and the latest biotech ingredients make Meder Beauty Science one of the few truly effective clinically proven cosmeceutical brands in the global market.
MEDER BEAUTY SCIENCE guarantees you excellence in treatment outcomes.
0466 338 844
admin@mederbeautyscience.com.au
mederbeautyscience.com.au
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IN THIS ISSUE SUMMER VOLUME 49. 2022 REGULATIONS, STANDARDS AND EDUCATION
14
14-15
86-87
APAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE 2022
THE NEW ERA IN POSTGRADUATE COSMETIC TATTOOING
40-42 COSMETIC TATTOOING COMES OF AGE
BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 20
84-85
TIPS ON MENTAL WELLBEING
36-37
EIGHT THINGS TO DO EVERY DAY THAT WILL GIVE YOUR BUSINESS MOMENTUM
THE SIMPLICITY OF WISDOM
94-99
48-49 LIVING AND REIGNING WITH WISDOM
72-73
TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS
106 HOW TO CREATE CONTENT THAT CONVERTS – THE FIVE STEP GUIDE
36
JOURNALING
INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS, PRODUCTS AND COSMETIC MEDICINE 8-9
52-54
CEO REPORT
PREVENTING AND MANAGING COMPLICATIONS USING A CANNULA FOR DERMAL FILLERS
24-26 TAKING A GLOBAL APPROACH TO COSMETIC TREATMENTS
84
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38-39
58-59 PRODUCT INNOVATIONS
THE SCIENCE OF WELLNESS AND THE ROLE OF OUR MICROBIOME
88-89
50-51
90-93
THE ROLE OF PROFESSIONAL COMMUNITIES IN INDSTRY REFORM
SKIN PROTECTION: A SCIENTIFIC UPDATE FOR DERMATOLOGISTS AND AESTHETICIANS
AESTHETIC BULLETIN
102 SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 44-46
74-75
ORANGE PEEL CBD – THE NEW BREAKTHROUGH IN CANNABINOIDS
SKIN HEALTH AND THE ROLE OF WATER INTAKE
56-57 SKIN TREATMENT CONSIDERATIONS PRE AND POST CANCER TREATMENTS
62-64 OLIVE LEAF EXTRACT FOR IMMUNITY, CARDIOVASCULAR HEALTH & BRAIN FUNCTION
76-78 MSM – THE FORGOTTEN MINERAL YOUR SKIN AND BODY NEEDS
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Editor Dr Giulia D’Anna (07) 5593 0360 editor@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com
Printed For Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network ACN: 136 987 169 ABN: 25 136 987 169
Typesetting & Graphics Angus Thompson Jessy Hart TEV Group Pty Ltd
Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre QLD 4218
Advertising & Marketing Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com Fax: (07) 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre QLD 4218 Australia
COLLAGEN SUPPLEMENTS ARE THEY WORTH THE HYPE?
Publisher TEV Group Pty Ltd
80-83
Design & Production Artwork and Editorial TEV Group Pty Ltd Unit 7D 76-84 Robina Town Centre Drive, Robina QLD 4226 Australia Phone: (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com Mobile: 0412 177 423
UNDERSTANDING ROSACEA AND TREATMENT RECOMMENDATIONS
68-71
100-105
HOW TO KEEP THE LIMBIC SYSTEM AND EMOTIONS IN ORDER
SCIENTIFIC NEWS
Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt - Education Features Wendy Neely - PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose - Scientific Content National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Chris Testa Gill Fish Carole Jackson Julia Grinberg ISSN: 1836-9812 Pint Post Approved [100000257] Circulation 6900
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Leaders in Education
Front Cover FORMULAE 1300 662 485 hello@formulae.com.au www.formulae.com.au For further information see pages 10-13
Summer Volume 49 2022
Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD.
THE ART AND SCIENCE OF COMPOUNDING
The new revolutionary skincare approach utilising the skin’s microbiome.
APJ 1
The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.
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Dr Giulia D’Anna
EDITOR’S LETTER Welcome to the first edition of APJ JOURNAL for 2022. I had a wonderful short break with my family over the New year. I headed on a road trip and visited the Blue mountains for the first time. I never expected to love it as much as I did. The vastness of space, the beauty of nature and the fresh morning air are simply wonderful. From there, I headed up to Coffs Harbour, which left me feeling rested and ready to take on the year ahead. The calmness of the water, the relaxing surrounds and talking walks along the various trails was exactly what I needed. I am looking forward to 2022 as I feel that it will bring more certainty, and we can move forward with confidence and resilience. This year I have been making checklists for little jobs that I need to get to, and am actually ticking them off as I go. It feels so good to accomplish things that I seem to have been putting off. And this has led to much more motivation for me to keep
accomplishing, planning and achieving tasks. So, I challenge you all to aim high this year too. My goals for this year are to spend time planning my professional life so that I have time to really dedicate time to the roles I love, and also to delegate the tasks that need more attention to my team. I think that over the course of the last couple of years, I started taking on more and more administrative duties because I was not at work during the lockdown periods, but now that I am back running three separate businesses it is crazy!I know! I simply cannot keep moving in the same direction and at the same pace if I do not delegate. I would guess that many of you have found yourselves in the same boat as me - too many roles and too little time. APAN has been working hard on a well-designed Mental Hygiene and Business Development programme to help support you with some of these areas of your life and and business and give you some clarity and positioning power to assess your own life and business space. It is just so easy to keep taking on roles without cleaning out some of the cobwebs. I am sure you all know what I mean! Something I am also really looking forward to this year is the APAN conference that is being planned. Behind the scenes there are so many wonderful moments being prepared, high quality presentations and an elite field of speakers are coming into line, for what will be a standout event for 2022. It is looking amazing, and as usual Tina is going to put on a stellar event that you will not want to miss. Look forward to hearing all your success stories for 2022. Let’s hit those goals!
editor@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com APJ 6
APJ Contributers
Terry Everitt
Katherine McCann
Gay Wardle
Professor Terry Everitt is regarded as a ‘Master Skincare Professional’ due to his extensive knowledge in the art and science of skincare. A very competent educator and regular lecturer on aesthetic and medical conferences where he presents up-to-date information from an evidencebased scientific perspective. Terry is the Director of Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd.
Katherine McCann has moved to her new dual position within APAN. Her new title will now be Regulations and Standards Advisor and Press and Media Liaison. Additionally, Katherine will continue to contribute to APJ through articles on Cosmetic Tattooing as this is an area in which she is truly an expert.
Gay Wardle is a well-known multiawarding winning industry expert and a renowned lecturer who conducts advanced skin analysis training for businesses and their staff on all issue pertaining to skin science.
aestheticeducators@gmail.com.
Jacine GreenwoodDrummond Jacine Greenwood is an internationally recognised educator who is known within the industry for her up-to-date knowledge and her ability to deliver training in an easy to understand method. Jacine holds six Diplomas, including a Diploma of Cosmetic Chemistry and a Bachelor of Nursing. Her knowledge is highly respected in the cosmetic industry. With over 22 years experience in the industry and a background of cosmetic formulation, Jacine has an immense knowledge of current trends in research and new developments in the industry.
0418 708 455 gay@gaywardle.com.au.
0405 069 311 k_mccann@me.com
Deb Farnworth-Wood
Trish Hammond
We are delighted to welcome Deb Farnworth-Wood as our new business expert. Deb will be sharing her wealth of knowledge in each issue of APJ.Her column - Wisdom in Business will present valuable, business-boosting tips. Deb is a leading figurehead and business development expert with amazing achievements, also within our industry. She has an incredible reputation as a serial entrepreneur. Expect to gain winning strategies from this amazing woman.
Trish Hammond is an award-winning blog and social media expert and the director of Plastic Surgery Hub. She is renowned for her skilful writing and interviews in all facets of the social media space. Her company specialises in the Aesthetics, Cosmetic Surgery and Cosmetic Medicine industry sectors for which she provides personalised and comprehensive services to help businesses communicate powerfully, grow their brand and capture new clients and patients.
deb@ultimateskinandbody.com.au
0429 264 811 info@plasticsurgeryhub.com.au.
07 3807 1429 jacine@roccoco.com.au.
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CEO REPORT
Tina Viney APAN CEO
Dear colleagues and friends, AS WE HAVE ENTERED A NEW YEAR MY WISH TO YOU is that we can stand with you to grow wings and rise above all adversity, not losing sight of your dreams and the right to pursue them to fruition. I remember when I completed a personal development course with Dr John Dermatini a couple of years ago, one of the take-home lessons I gained was that life comes in cycles. In our lifetime we will experience both the good and the bad. While we all love the good times because we can rest and feel nurtured, it’s the bad times that allow us to be pushed towards growth. It’s all part of the cycle of life and we need to expect and prepare how we will face both. Through the conversations I have had with many of you I am convince we have many eagles amongst us as I am witnessing the incredible courage with which most of you are addressing your problems. Indeed, life has not been smooth sailing, especially during the past two years, however, it is amazing when we cultivate the right mindset, we can achieve anything. This year we have launched our Mental Hygiene and Business Development program as a result of the feedback we have received from you. With all the disruptions we are facing, tenacity alone will not help us stay on track. We need to step up those practices that will consistently support us and allow us to maintain our sense of calm, so that we can respond with well thought-through intentional decisions, rather than through reactionary responses. This is all possible with the right tools. We have done all the hard work for you to help you work with a program that is tailored just for you. This program consists of a Manual that is supported by Activity Exercises allowing you to customise what you have learned from each chapter and appropriate it to the needs of your own environment. We know you will gain great value from this program and we are delighted to provide it to you for FREE as a gift when you join or renew your membership. As Omicron reaching its peak, we are moving towards herd immunity. This we believe will contribute to the easing of restrictions allowing businesses to plan their future with greater confidence.
NEW INDUSTRY ADVANCES Our conference program this year will be truly a master educational event. It will feature approximately 40 lectures and sessions, bringing you the very best and the latest in industry advances, both scientific and business. At this event we plan to also feature several panel discussions with experts, as these create a great way for information exchange. This event is not just a bunch of zoom sessions, it is a strategically planned program based on an extensive array of topics delivered by leading educators and experts. Its objective it to allow you to gain accurate, up-to-date knowledge on which to base your business decisions. As an industry-endorsed educational program, it is also supported with 20 CPD Points. We encourage ALL OUR MEMBERS to please prioritise to register. For those of you who are longing for a face-to-face event you will have the opportunity to attend this year, as the first day of the conference will also be featured at the Legends Mantra on the Gold Coast. While the complete program will be available online to view at your leisure, the first day can also be experienced face-to-face. So, mark the date Monday 18th July and join us for an amazing conference experience. There will also be companies who will be exhibiting, so you will have a chance to view new products and equipment innovations. Another exciting news this year is that we have also signed an MOU with the Australasian Society of Cosmetic Dermatology. This strategic alliance will allow both organisations to support one another through our various initiatives. NEW COLUMNS IN APJ As the roles of both mental health and nutrition are gaining ongoing recognition as important factors to skin health and wellbeing, from this issue of APJ we will feature two new regular columns: * Nutrition for Better Health and Skin presented by Fiona Tuck who is a highly respected expert in this area. * Tips on Mental Wellbeing will feature various global experts. One way of enhancing your knowledge is incrementally through
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“In the presence of trouble some people grow wings, while others seek for crutches. ” - Anonymous
ongoing educational article and we intend to step-up both the content and the number of articles to support you. Studies strongly confirm that consumers want more from us than just improving their appearance, they are seeking modalities that can also lower their stress levels, manage pain, and improve their quality of life. We will therefore extend our educational articles to include studies and quality articles in these areas. APPRENTICESHIP PROGRAM IN QUEENSLAND The launch of the updated Diploma in Beauty Therapy is now also available in Queensland through a three-year Apprenticeship program. This is welcoming news to many salons in Queensland, who from some time, have requested this training option be made available to them to ensure better staff. After two years of development, the program was finally launched in February this year allowing businesses to contribute to this process. Other states are also looking at refining their programs and we believe that the Queensland model is being reviewed to be implemented by other states as well. While we were extremely sceptical of an apprenticeship training model, specifically for the high level of training needed for a diploma level qualification, having been invited to be involved with the process we can vouch that a great deal of rigour has gone into how it will be delivered. DIPLOMA IN COSMETIC TATTOOING Another industry advancement is that cosmetic tattooing has now been upgraded to a diploma level qualification. This will now replace the one Unit of Competency SHBBSKS003 Design and Provide Cosmetic Tattooing to a nine unit Diploma qualification. This is a step in the right direction as it will allow both a more robust qualification, as well as flexibility in training delivery. For example if you only wish to specialise in eyebrows you can achieve your Diploma of Cosmetic Tattooing (Eye Brows).
and much more. With the in-depth units within the new Cosmetic Tattoo Diploma qualification the options for expanding and diversifying your practice will become endless and a welcoming opportunity in a constantly competitive market. TATTOO INK SAFETY The issue of tattoo pigments and ink safety has also been one that we have been involved with on a regulatory level, as hazardous and carcinogenic substances have been identified. Our alliance with the European Society of Tattoo and Pigment Research, to which we have joined as members, has been a useful association as the issue of pigment safety have rigorously been investigated for a level of regulatory determination here in Australia. This has been a lengthy endeavour and the review process has included both considerations of the European Union regulations, as well as negotiations with the FDA for the USA position. At this stage, in-depth discussions are being conducted with key manufacturers to discuss the feasibility of the potential changes to inks and pigment formulas. Despite the many challenges, I believe we are moving forward and will soon achieve a draft of the Departmental Standard that will define the regulatory position of ink safety for Australia, starting with Queensland. Safety is a great consumer concern, and whether you are a PMU practitioner to a tattoo removal practitioner, staying accurately informed of the scientific data on hazardous and toxic substances, supporting and complying with regulatory requirements should be a priority for both your safety and the safety of your clients. It’s important that we get this right. Please note that as an industry body, your membership to APAN is important to us. We value and appreciate your support and consider it a privilege to serve you. Together we are stronger.
Additionally, the diploma will elevate skill-sets to a much higher level with strong components in skin and business management. This will provide practitioners with robust education to expand their scope of practice to incorporate other procedures if they wish, that will complement their clients’ treatment outcomes. Cosmetic tattooing will no longer be confined to just a grooming procedure. The stage is now set to allow it to expand so that it can include corrective skin treatment outcomes, such as minimising scarring, restoring skin colour abnormalities, hair loss simulation
Tina Viney Chief Executive Officer
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COVER STORY
Introducing a new standard in Contract Manufacturing FORMULAE IS A SPECIALIST COMPOUNDING PHARMACY COLLECTIVE consisting of compounding pharmacists who meet an international standard of quality that is introducing and setting a new standard in what is possible with skin, health and wellness solutions. As humans, due to our DNA, our history and our environment, we are all very different. Thus, we need a more personalised approach to every aspect of life, from gut health, hormones, nutrition and more. New scientific studies in epigenetics also confirm evidence that with a personal approach to our lifestyle and health, we can influence gene expression to enhance our quality of life and minimise the impact of disease. As consumers become more aware and conscious of their own health, they are seeking how they can take greater control of their life through personal choices that are right for them. The FORMULAE approach is a new and exciting concept that provides a point-of-difference in personalised solutions based on the up-to-the-minute scientific advances for personal care.
HEALTH AND WELLBEING As part of the Formulae approach and service, you will gain: •
•
EDUCATION on the latest scientific findings, referencing those that have credibility and knowledge in identifying the root of health concerns. DISCOVER solutions to your needs in greater detail. To do this
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we work with a diverse range of health experts and advisers to comprehensively assess the whole picture, so that the treatment solution is tailored to the individual and offers superior outcomes. •
PERSONALISED solutions for your healthcare issues and to provide a pathway for a longer, more vibrant life.
THE NEW FORMULAE APPROACH TO SKINCARE At FORMULAE, we also take a revolutionary approach to skincare by cultivating the skin’s microbiome, ensuring that this is our focal point when developing products. Our progressive method of developing skincare sets us apart from the entire industry, as we disregard traditional formulation techniques, which may not support, or even damage the skin’s microbiome. Instead, we masterfully combine art and science in a way that complements the complexity of the skin’s natural state, restoring its balance, improving immune function and enhancing a youthful appearance by optimising the skin’s health. Our diverse range of services means that the entire process of creating your own skincare products or range is taken care of by us. Our experienced cosmetic chemists will oversee your journey from
start to finish and work with you closely to develop a progressive, microbiome-friendly formula that aligns with your expectations and your brand ethics. With a strong focus on client relations, our consultants will provide guidance on product compliance, marketing, claims and legality. In our state-of-the-art laboratory, we manufacture products with precise attention to detail using only premium raw materials that are scientifically validated and have proven efficacy. With full packaging facilities on site, your products will be expertly formulated and assembled with strict quality assurance measures to ensure every single item is of premium quality.
CHOOSE THE CONCEPT THAT SUITS YOU
INNOVATION We masterfully combine art and science to ensure we restore and optimise the skin’s health and allow it to achieve its natural youthfulness.
You can commence introducing these products through a minimum order that will best suit you, so that you can “dip your toe” into these concepts without over-extending your cash-flow. This is the fastest option for getting product onto your shelves with minimal lead-times and start growing your business. Many of our clients use FORMULAE 5 as an entrée for the next FORMULAE level…
SUPPORT Our consultants will work with you from concept to completion of your product or range. We will ensure you will receive high quality products in the most cost-effective manner, while also providing you with ongoing mentoring for new product lines. FLEXIBLE OPTIONS We provide you with the option that will best support your business, throughout your journey of introducing your own skincare line, allowing you to grow your business at your own pace.
FORMULAE believes that one size does not fit all, so we have designed THREE OPTIONS, allowing you to choose what will best suit you in introducing the FORMULAE skincare to your business. 01. FORMULAE 5 – READY TO GO This option will allow you to start introducing the FORMULAE brand with our label. While a newly established concept, it is already making waves in the aesthetics industry, across several markets.
02. FORMULAE 7 – WHITE LABEL FORMULAE 7 is for those businesses hat love the FORMULAE products, but want it under their own brand name. The minimum order is higher, but manageable. However, clinics quickly reap the benefit of introducing their brand with our “microbiome-friendly” concepts. Although a little longer in lead-time than Formulae 5, Formulae 7 still provides a fast option in getting quality product with your own label onto your shelves. If you are looking for a solution that perfectly reflects your brand, then Formula 7 is the perfect fit for you. That brings us to …
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03. FORMULAE – BESPOKE As a skin therapists or clinician, you understand skincare and the specific needs of your clients or patients who come to you for solutions on improving their condition. As a result, you may have your own broad ranging ideas for the product range that you would like to bring to life. In achieving this FORMULAE BESPOKE is your best choice. The Formulae Bespoke option will allow you to work with our formulators to develop your own unique brand of product with your signature branding and the packaging that you aspire to. Yes, the lead times will be longer, and the minimum order requirements will be higher, but you and your business will benefit greatly from stocking your exclusive product in which you have had input in its development. With the expert guidance of leading specialists in cosmetic formulations you will be able to shape a brand that is cutting-edge and fits precisely with your product brief and your expectations.
A NEW REVOLUTIONARY APPROACH FORMULAE is a new revolutionary concept that is here to serve the “lovers of life”. These are business owners who are looking at embracing every aspect of life and who are seeking ways to: •
Enrich their life through evidence-based innovations
•
Optimise health and perform better at every stage of life
•
Feel and look better, and achieve better health
•
Improve quality of life for themselves and their community.
THE BRAINS BEHIND THE BRAND The FORMULAE concept is an industry first. It was devised by three highly qualified and experienced professionals who combined their knowledge and expertise to create a new personalised evidence-based approach to health, skin and wellness with a strong focus on safety and purity. We interviewed Chris Testa, one of the directors, to learn more about the brains behind the brand. Q1: Chris how did FORMULAE come about? Very simply, three compounders, all of us innovators in our own field, who have been at the forefront of compounding for many years, deciding to pool our experience, knowledge, and skills to provide a more complete and comprehensive compounding offer. Our aim was to create something that was more complete in terms information, education and support, offered to our clients and patients along with a precise and individualised focus when it comes to developing solutions. We appreciate the uniqueness of each client or business and realise that any solution must be tailored accordingly. We aim to offer the same consistent high-quality and standard, no matter which of our Formulae compounding member you deal with throughout Australia. Q2: Who are the directors and give us a little background on each one? FORMULAE is a Pharmacy Collective of three highly qualified and experienced pharmacists with extensive and diverse experiences. Each director brings a specialised level of knowledge and expertise to the FORMULAE concept. Here is a brief outline of each one, however a more complete profile can be accessed from our website:
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MARY-LOU CONDON Mary-Lou is an anti-ageing health practitioner who specialises in bio-identical hormone balancing, creating wellness, and correcting an epidemic of nutrient deficiencies in her community. She works intimately with clients to balance and harmonise their hormones and restore thyroid function. She holds a Bachelor of Pharmacy from The University of Queensland, with a Dean’s Recommendation of Honours. She has also studied abroad in the USA at the School of Pharmacy at the University of Iowa and has over 25 years of experience in the field of compounding and health creation. As an active member of the PCCA Australian Advisory Board she continues to demonstrate her passion for individualising personal healthcare. She then completed her Diplomat with A4M (The American Academy of Anti-Ageing Medecine) in 2015 and has also completed postgraduate studies from the Institute of Functional Medicine. BEN ESHELBY Ben is a compounding pharmacist and formulating chemist who is passionate about shaking up the pharmacy, healthcare and the personal care industries through community pharmacy-based compounding. Whilst he has a deep understanding of the health benefits that compounding may have for an individual, he specialises in skin health and creating dermatological products that foster and support a healthy microbiome. As the personal care and cosmetics industry gradually evolves to embrace sound medical, evidence-bases data, Ben is finding evidence that skincare formulated in a microbiome-friendly manner can in fact greatly enhance clinical results. After graduating from the University of Queensland, Ben spent a significant amount of time working as a registered pharmacist in England, Scotland and Wales. Upon returning to Australia, he noticed the same large gaps in pharmaceutical treatments existed. Ben is involved in formulating skin products for use in clinical trials, and is a regular lecturer to medical professions, as well as having written papers on the skin’s microbiome as a therapeutic target and the importance of correct formulations. CHRIS TESTA Chris is a highly experienced and respected second generation compounding pharmacist, with a keen interest in maximising a healthy lifespan for patients. Chris recognises that we are individuals and solutions to our health issues need to be precisely tailored for best results. Chris’s close affiliation with the Walsh Research Institute, BioBalance as well as with research wth Griffith University, have made him an expert in the field of nutritional protocol. Chris believes in a collaborative team approach involving the healthcare provider and compounding pharmacist working together towards the best outcomes for the patient’s individual needs. He also works closely with APAN and actively advocates and educates on the safe and appropriate use of topical anaesthetics. Chris also regularly participates in clinical trials and research as well as collaborating with doctors and patients to achieve optimal health outcomes. Chris brings to Formulae the experience and knowledge of the past, combined with the innovation and modernisation of today’s compounding practice. Q3: What industry standards are you introducing through this alliance? We are making medications, nutrient formulations, injectables, topical anaesthetics and cosmeceuticals just to mention a few, from scratch. We also work in cutting-edge laboratories with sophisticated systems and equipment. To ensure consistent quality, we have implemented formal best practise standards and operating procedures that are constantly re-evaluated. Our operating procedures ensure the highest standards in terms of raw material
MARY-LOU CONDON
BEN ESHELBY
CHRIS TESTA
quality, formulations, compounding procedures, facilities, equipment and staff training and competencies.
and branded product, or a complete range that will offer individual clinics a strong competitive advangage.
Q4: I believe this initiative is a world-first, how is this so and what is your vision for the future? I am not aware of any other group embarking in this direction. Our group will include formulating specialists, IT systems to manage all aspects of compounding, training, and education, as well as formula databases. We are also working with our professional bodies to develop comprehensive training for compounders. Our education modules will extend also to our clients.
In situations where a procedure or application can disrupt the skin’s delicate microbiome, such as skin peels and lightening products, we can offer products that can quickly restore the skin’s microbiome.
Q5: How do you believe your formulas will provide something uniquely different to other private label concepts? FORMULAE can offer salons and clinics products designed by leading expert cosmetic formulators, made within medical level laboratories by specialist technicians. All our formulations are science-based and aim to support and enhance the skin’s microbiome and to maximise treatment outcomes for any aesthetic procedure. We can personalise, or even develop a new formula or range of products from scratch to uniquely suit a particular clinic and any aesthetic procedure. Utilising cutting-edge technology and focusing on skin microbiome restoration and enhancement FORMULAE can help maximise outcomes. A scientifically designed
Also, as specialist nutraceutical compounders we have developed and are continuing to develop a range of nutrient combinations. For example, our most recent release is a collagen peptide, colloidal silica, hyaluronic acid combination with supporting vitamins and minerals. We are excited about the future, knowing that through FORMULAE we can deliver more personalised evidence-based solutions on so many levels. APJ Contact us today and let us help you to introduce your own FORMULAE SKINCARE SOLUTION. FORMULAE 1300 662 485 hello@formulae.com.au www.formulae.com.au
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This MASTER EDUCATION EVENT will be presented as a complete online program with a new option. If you also wish to attend in person, you will be able to do so on Monday 18th July. Meet up with like-minded professionals and exhibitors and experience the professional community at its best. The event will be held at the MANTRA LEGENDS on the Gold Coast. Renowned for its amazing ocean views and award-winning cuisine, delegates will be treated to the very best in education, amazing meals and sponsored gifts. Save the date and make it a day to celebrate the best in aesthetics. If you cannot attend personally, you can still enjoy a three-day online conference event from the comfort of your own home – the difference is that this year you have a choice. The program will be accessible online across every state as well as globally. You will be able to access the various segments for a full 30 days and watch them at your convenience, and even revisit segments of interest. Delegates who choose to attend in person will also be able to connect with the remaining of the program – 2nd and 3rd days as an online event. We anticipate 35-40 CONFERENCE SESSIONS. The live event will also feature companies exhibiting their latest products
who are look forward to interacting with you with special offers. The program promises to present new industry updates and robust education with exciting new speakers as APAN has just signed an MOU with the Australian Society of Cosmetic Dermatology (ASCD). While COVID-19 has caused disruptions, it has also presented incredible opportunities in expanding your scope of practice with new and rewarding modalities with exceptional potential for business growth. This year’s program promises to provide you with another robust educational program of the highest quality and with unbeatable value. The full program will soon be available from our conference website www.apanconf.com. Over the past two years so many of you have confirmed that you have enjoyed the option of accessing world-class education from the comfort of your own home, regardless of your state or location. As a result, the online event will continue with the option of the first day as a face-to-face option. If you are an APAN ARAP or CTARP practitioner this program is compulsory as it will provide you with 20 CPD Points this year. Your yearly requirement for retaining your registration is 15 Points.
PRICING APAN Members: Online: $299 In-person: $399
Non Members: Online: $319 In-person: $419
If you wish to exhibit at the live event, please contact APAN for further details.
ACCOMMODATION If you wish to attend in person and would like to book your accommodation our special SUNDAYMONDAY RATE IS $150 per night for a DELUXE STUDIO at Mantra Legends Surfers Paradise.
(07) 5593 0360
info@apanetwork.com
www.apanconf.com
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STAR PERFORMER
STEP UP YOUR TREATMENTS WITH
THE AMAZING BENEFITS OF HYDRODERMABASION
THERE IS A REASON THAT HYDRODERMABRASION treatments are becoming more popular. Not only do they offer immediately smoother skin due to collagen stimulation and skin resurfacing, but they are also suitable for all skin types, while the treatment is painless.
owners, we are able to resolve the frustrations and challenges clinic owners and managers experience, and one of the most significant issues is deciding what to add to the treatment menu.”
Laseraid CEO Farzad Hendi says hydrodermabrasion’s recent surge in popularity has come about as a result of clients seeking a non-invasive treatment that delivers effective and obvious results.
“We have successful laser hair removal clinics come to us, looking to expand the treatment menu, but hoping to sensible mitigate the financial risk,” Hendi continues.
“We have invested heavily in hydroderm,” says Hendi. “Our Prolift device is one of the most advanced in the market. With seven different hand-pieces it offers a wide range of treatment options to keep clients coming back. We believe that this type of treatment will become more common as time goes on”. Since last year, Laseraid has added the Prolift device to their unique ‘device subscription’ offering. This means that Laseraid subscription clients receive the device, servicing, training, marketing support, and even a monthly voucher to spend in Laseraid’s expansive online store. Hendi explains the importance of the Prolift device to Laseraid’s clients. “For the past decade, our primary business has been laser hair removal devices. Over time, we have added additional products, resulting in a full suite of equipment for clinics of all sizes. Through our “subscription model” for business
APJ 16
Citing thousands of conversations with clinic owners, including service visits, business reviews and new client discussions, Hendi says creating, or expanding a treatment menu is often a daunting challenge, especially when considering the necessity of having a treatment pay itself back as quickly as possible within a short period of time.
Hendi notes that most businesses don’t want a complex treatment that requires extensive training time, because that exposes them to staff shortages. They don’t want to spend a huge amount of money and burn through their profits either, and they don’t want a treatment that requires days or even weeks before results can be seen, because this could mean they will lose a percentage of their new clients. Hendi says the Prolift system addresses all those concerns. “If you are experienced in microdermabrasion, you can do hydrodermabrasion,”says Hendi. “The client leaves the treatment looking smoother, with more radiant and plumper skin. It’s a perfect treatment for lunchtimes or before a special event, as there is no downtime. Most importantly for the clinic owner, it’s not an expensive device and the payback is astoundingly fast. How good it that?” Hendi states. Are there any downsides? “It’s going to become even more popular,” says Hendi. “I don’t know if that will drive costs down or reduce them over time, but that’s the exact point of our subscription model. If the market changes, you don’t have to worry about selling your device to introduce an updated option, your subscription will allow you to move to a different treatment – it’s that simple. It’s our goal to make it easy for you to succeed.” APJ
For more information on the Prolift Hydrodermabrasion device, visit Laseraid.com.au or call 02 9011 5509.
SUBSCRIPTION Providing you with a complete range of devices to achieve leading treatment results for face and body. — Leading Brand Name Devices — Marketing Support — 7-Day Servicing and Support — + Monthly Store Credits — Training Complementary treatments to accelerate treatment results that can be successfully integrated into your clients’ aesthetic, or cosmetic injectable regime.
02 9011 5509 www.laseraid.com.au
A COMPLETE CLINIC GROWTH SOLUTION
You will be able to create, effective treatment packages that can deliver leading results that your clients will enjoy and stick to. Predictable Costs | Minimum Downtime | Increased Revenue | Growth Opportunities APJ 17
AF PAG PRENSA 420X280 OK EN alta.pdf
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DOUBLE DIMENSION CLEANSING SYSTEM 100% ECO CLEAN · REINFORCES THE SKIN’S MICROBIOTA
THE EXPERT LINE IN FACIAL SKIN HYGIENE EXPERT CLEANSE PRO is the perfect line for cleansing and preparing the skin before any treatment. Developed under the CLEAN COSMETIC and CLEAN SKIN concepts. The unique combination of skin hygiene and health, together with care for the planet. Formulated with pre- and postbiotics which stimulate and protect the skin microbiota for 100% CLEAN and HEALTHY skin. A 100% ecofriendly line, with biodegradable ingredients, recycled and recyclable containers, and an exclusive certificate: CARE CERTIFICATE, which guarantees our active commitment to sustainable production and packaging. EXPERT CLEANSE PRO is the new way to clean and care for your skin at the same time as protecting the environment and the planet.
www.skeyndor.com PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS. ONLY IN BEAUTY CENTRES.
APJ 19
TIPS ON MENTAL WELLBEING
TRUTHS AND MYTHS ABOUT MINDFULLNESS THIS YEAR WE ARE INTRODUCING A SPECIAL COLUMN DEVOTED TO MENTAL WELLBEING. The principles will be accessed from an extensive library of mental health experts – this one is from Dr Rick Hanson.
grow what's helpful and prevent or decrease what's harmful. In fact, we need to make efforts to be mindful as anyone knows who's tried to stay mindful with just 10 breaths in a row.
destructive or traumatic thoughts, we need to move towards rebuilding our mind by letting in feelings of care, gratitude, compassion, insight and appreciation that will allow us to cultivate grit, resilience and virtue.
Myth #2: Mindfulness is all you need. There is so much talk these days about the benefit of mindfulness, with several reference to this practice on social media. As with everything that becomes popular, misinformation or misleading assumptions can also circulate. Myth #1: An active mind conflicts with mindfulness. The truth: The practice of mindfulness aims to sustain present moment awareness, without trying to change anything. But alongside that awareness can be wise efforts to
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The truth: The mind+brain resists change. So just observing it is not enough. We also need to make deliberate efforts to let go of tension, rumination, grudges, painful emotions, old trauma, and addictive cravings. Once we let go of
Mindfulness is wonderful. It helps you step back from reactions, understand yourself and others, and see into the nature of experience itself: impermanent, with many parts and causes, insubstantial, and not to be clung to. But it's not a miracle cure. As you work through this pillar of mindfulness, keep in mind that it is a vital part of the path of healing and growth, but not the whole of it. APJ
I T H A S FINALLY ARRIVED!
Mental Hygiene & Business Development Increasing Productivity and Joy If you are a business owner, you will no doubt be required to carry a diverse range of responsibilities to maintain business viability. This program was designed specifically for you. WHY YOU NEED THIS PROGRAM Designed for business owners specifically for needs within a salon or clinic environment. What you will receive: • 11 Chapters, introducing you to evidence-based concepts backed by neuroscience. •
Each chapter will present specific principles to help you establish a winning mindset for great clarity, calmness and resilience.
•
Each key chapter will include an Activity Exercise Sheet with specific questions to allow you to implement
your own action plan to suit your individual needs.
•
•
Additional recommended reading for your on-going research.
•
Contact lists for an emergency crisis.
This 45-page program is Free-of-Charge to members (accessible through a link sent to you). Non-members can purchase it for $400.
•
Several experts for additional one-onone mentoring.
•
Two world renowned evidence based daily support programs.
Our aim is to provide you with valuable information to help you: •
Prevent mental-health issues
•
Support consistent productivity for you and your staff
•
Manage stress and enhance innovation
•
Improve communication with staff and clients
Provide you with valuable mental and emotional support.
This manual is a workbook, so it is advisable print each chapter on demand. Bound printed copies are also available for $78 + $6 freight within Australia. It is now highly recommended that business owners have a reliable, scientifically backed Mental Hygiene strategy and protocols, both as a preventative measure and for peace of mind. Start implementing this program today. APAN 07 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com www.apanwork.com APJ 21
STAR PERFORMER
Harnessing the Energetic Power of Crystals and Gems
Einstein said “Everything is energy and that is all there is to it.” This is not philosophy, it is physics. The human body is a highway of electrical circuits that oscillate and vibrate at frequencies. Our cells interact with electromagnetic fields and can absorb energy from gems and crystals. Crystals and Gems are piezoelectric, which means they hold energy, and they generate a tiny electric voltage. Roccoco has harnessed the energy of precious gems and crystals and has incorporated them into their luxurious crystal stone range. Increasing the skin's electrical energy, allowing the skin to detox and radiantly glow.
elasticity of the skin. Spiritually, gold has been called the master purifier and has been used with the third chakra. It enhances the power of the other gems. Three new products launched by Roccoco utilising crystal principles: Ruby Crystal Cleanser: Introducing our 7-in-1 Crème de la crème Ruby Crystal Cleanser. Reveal and uncover an unparalleled level of skin softness and radiance. Our ruby cleanser contains real rubies, which are known esoterically to bring healing and channel energy. Infused with a harmonious blend of aromatic and essential fatty acids, skin repair is accelerated and the appearance of inflammation and discolouration of the skin is reduced.
Esoterically our gems have the following properties: Hematite: Outperforms most peptides stimulating collagen in the skin. Not only does it possess its esoteric properties of grounding, hematite fills out wrinkles and thickens the epidermis to make it stronger. Australian Rose: This rare plant is native to Australia and exclusive to Roccoco, Australian Rose is a calming floral water with hints of rose and rainforest. It possesses antimicrobial and anti-biofilm properties. Diamond: Diamond Increases the sirtuin levels of the skin and protects the DNA of cells. Spiritually diamonds help to bring the mind and body together. Platinum: Reduces wrinkles by up to 61% in 4 weeks. Recontours the eye area and increases elasticity of the skin by 41% in 4 weeks. Spiritually platinum aligns the entire chakra system. Sapphire: Sapphires are renowned spiritually for their transformative properties. This noble gem firms and tones the skin, improving elasticity. It targets glycation and protects your collagen from being destroyed. Sapphire brings radiance and beauty back to the skin. Gold: Gold reduces wrinkles by 55% in 4 weeks and increases
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Platinum Crystal Serum: The ultimate gem-infused lifting serum that increases skin firmness by 25% in just under one month. Containing Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum, Hematite and Gold. Skin is oxygenating and visibly lifted in appearance. This potent geminfused serum is our most potent anti-ageing serum. Naturally repairs compromised skin, it reinforces the protective barrier of the skin, boosting natural moisture for an incredibly softer and smoother complexion.
Midnight Crystal Mask: The ultimate weapon against skin laxity and loss of volume with instant effects. This paper and charcoal mask providing rapid and continuous moisture of up to 55% after just a single application. This volume-filling and lifting charcoal masks visibly plumps and reduces the appearance of wrinkles. Targeting loss of volume in the nasolabial region and expression lines between the eyebrows, it plumps and enhances skin oxygenation for a radiant glow. APJ
Roccoco Botanicals jacine@roccoco.com www.roccoco.com
DIAMOND
Ultra-hydrating. Calms and Reduces Redness in the Skin.
Anti-pollutant. Protects Skin from the Effects of Aging.
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•
61% KL
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Detoxifying. Strengthens and Nourishes the Skin.
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SAPPHIRE
Tones the Skin. Protects Collagen and Targets Gylcation.
precious g em stones
A new level of skin luxury culminates in this synergistic crystal-infused skin care collection. Combining a melody of precious gemstones, potent actives and intuitive technology, Roccoco’s Crystal Collection promises to radiate the barest and rarest beauty far beyond the skin. Equally as stunning and an ethical alternative to their natural counterparts, Roccoco formulates with lab-created gemstones only.
AUSTRALIA’S FASTEST GROWING BEAUTY BRAND
ROCCOCOBOTANICALS
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COSMETIC MEDICINE
TAKING A GLOBAL APPROACH TO COSMETIC TREATMENTS Dr Giulia D’Anna
FACIAL TREATMENTS ARE NO LONGER JUST ABOUT IMPROVING ONE AREA OF THE FACE. We need to think globally to produce a harmonious improvement for our patients. Today, providing dermal filler and cosmetic neurotoxin injections is within the scope of a trained, registered nurse, medical practitioner, or dentist. Cosmetic training and fine motor skills make these practitioners exceedingly well-qualified to provide safe and aesthetically pleasing results using cosmetic injections. What’s more, it adds to the results that we are able to achieve through traditional skin treatment procedures. Like most skin procedures, providing cosmetic injections requires a combination of technical and artistic skill. This needs to be combined with a comprehensive knowledge of head and neck anatomy, current techniques and treatment options. So let’s look at facial rejuvenation to enhance our approach to cosmetic procedures. And in particular, let’s look at the role that dentists can have in treating patients in combination with other treatments. FACIAL REJUVENATION The term facial rejuvenation refers to several different categories of treatment designed to improve the appearance of the face. Over the years, the number of traditional surgical procedures has declined as patients prefer wherever possible, a non-surgical approach. On the other hand, the number of neurotoxin and dermal filler procedures have increased by more than 244% since 2006. Some of the reasons for this trend are: •
The effect is seen in days
•
The procedure takes less than one hour
•
There is little to no downtime
•
Additionally, the enhancements are subtle and discreet, so that
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patients can have the treatment “under the radar”, which is very appealing. The concept behind facial rejuvenation is not to make a person look younger, but rather to look radiant and the best that they can for their age. The teeth should match the smile, and the smile should match the face. This is truly a global approach. THE IMPORTANCE OF THE LIPS The lip region is an extremely important area when it comes to facial aesthetic proportion and balance. As such, many people, young and old, opt to have lip enhancement. The lips have always been highlighted along with the eyes, as the two most beautiful regions of a woman’s or a man’s face. This is apparent by many artists over time, especially where lips and shade are highlighted to pronounce the curves of the lips. The lips are the centre of communication, sensuality and function. With the passage of time, photo-damage, hereditary factors and smoking, contribute to loss of lip volume, perioral rhytides or wrinkles and prominence of mentolabial folds. Genetically, thin lips and cosmetic asymmetries of the lips are also issues that can be dealt with similarly, that is, by soft tissue augmentations using fillers. Successful rejuvenation of the perioral region requires knowledge in using a combination of rejuvenation techniques and injectable treatments. Various fillers, temporary and permanent, have been tried in shaping the lips with beautiful results. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is the main filler widely available and used for non-surgical enhancement. Worldwide usage of HA and published reports clearly confirm the efficacy and safety of HA fillers. They are one of the key components of successful combination treatments of the ageing face and lips.
FACIAL ASSESSMENT When a patient comes in to see us, there is usually a concern related to a particular line or fold. However, as practitioners, we should take a global approach to our assessment. Traditionally, we look at a patient as just a smile with teeth when we are first making our way in cosmetic treatments. We soon learn that this narrow view is not enough. We need to look at the whole patient.
oral seal should also be examined. Exaggerated Mentalis muscle contraction for an anterior oral seal would affect the position of the upper and lower teeth and hence the soft tissue morphology of the region. The dento-skeletal relationship effects all the above parameters. PATIENT PRESENTATIONS
TRADITIONAL VIEW GLOBAL VIEW
HOW TO APPROACH THE PATIENT
Although the patient may specifically complain of lip deflation or asymmetry, we should also take into consideration the surrounding facial area. Consider the photos of the traditional mouth and lip view versus better shape to the mouth. However, as we pan out and look at the whole face and the different facial expressions, it becomes apparent that a global approach to assessment and treatment is required. Now imagine if this patient was another decade or two older, there would potentially be more treatment required and a simple goal of lip enhancement may not achieve a harmonious result if we do not look at the surrounding and supporting tissues.
When patients come to see us, they often use some of the phrases such as:
When a patient smiles, their face is animated with full movement of the muscles, skin around their eyes and cheek movement. When a patient is sad, their face will pull downwards. This can highlight the chin and jowl area.
•
“I look tired”
•
“I want to look less angry”
•
“I hate the lower part of my face”
We should also think in these terms to understand our patients’ concerns, and to give our clients great outcomes. However, when we simply solve one problem without considering any other areas, often we make that one feature stand out among the rest of the facial features. An analogy would be to repair a small crack in a wall, but to ignore the broken window in the room. We should aim for balance and address multiple areas so that the patient looks better overall. This is often where lip fillers go wrong. Often the practitioner performs treatment without looking at any other parts of the face. It is important to look at the midface and chin too, so that the lips look like they belong. Lips should also be connected to the face in proportions and features. What I mean by this is, the lips are also about the marionettes, the nose, and the jowls. Lips need to have curve; a strong cupids bow and have structure. They need philtral columns. When this is lacking, the lips can look like overfilled sausages. This is definitely, not ideal. AREAS TO CONSIDER
FACE AT REST Examining lip function at rest and during animation is critical, in particular when treatment planning for lip enhancement. Hyperactive (tight), or hypoactive (loose) lips will change the way the face looks in animation. And the activity of the lips can affect the choice of dermal fillers and whether we incorporate muscle relaxants into the treatment. In cases of underlying deformity (dento-skeletal), it would be preferable to refer the patient for correction that allows normal lip function. This may entail orthodontic treatment to correct the dental defect so that the soft tissue defects is lessened or eliminated completely. The anterior
Taking a global approach to the face will deliver the best outcome for our patients. We need to look at all the little details. A combination of injection techniques usually produces a more complete correction of the patient concern. Correction of all the deficits in each region produces a more complete and more harmonious correction than treating isolated features. With this in mind when we are considering enhancement of the lips, we should also assess these aesthetic areas. LIPS •
Upper lip to lower radio
•
Asymmetry
•
Cupid’s bow prominence
•
Oral commissure position APJ 25
ABOVE THE LIPS •
Philtral columns
•
Smokers’ lines
•
Symmetry when smiling
•
Nasolabial fold
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Gummy smile
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Eyes
•
Accordion Lines
BELOW THE LIP •
Smoker’s lines
•
Jowls
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Mental-labial crease
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Cobblestone chin
•
Marionette Lines
GLOBAL APPROACH BEFORE AND AFTER SO WHERE DO YOU START? The first step is to undertake training, and that needs to focus on four key areas. These are: 1. The anatomy of the face. 2. Diagnosis and treatment planning to achieve good outcomes 3. Treatment techniques in both dermal filler (using cannula and needle) and neurotoxin for a great result. 4. Supportive treatments to help the patient achieve a more harmonious appearance.
HOW CAN I GAIN TRAINING? It is important that although you may only be interested in studying the use of dermal fillers and botulinum toxins for the mouth area, you should also understand the complexity of ageing and how other treatments, such as dermal fillers in other areas that can help address these changes. Similarly, when a patient is concerned about some misaligned teeth, we need to consider the entire skeletal pattern, when looking at the lips, we should also consider jowls, nasolabial folds, chin, maxilla, etc. It is then that we master the concept of a global approach to cosmetic dentistry.
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To learn these techniques and treatment planning strategies, or to find our more visit www.dermaldistiction.com. At Dermal Distinction Training Academy, Dr Giulia D’Anna is a dentist working in the dermal and cosmetic industry. She understands the skills that need to be developed to produce great cosmetic results for dental patients. APJ
Learn Cosmetic injectables in an accredited dental practice Study with Dermal Distinction Training Academy! Lip Artistry using filler & botox Personal training
Botulinum toxin Basic Skin Science
Chin & Jawline Cheek Structure Master
Full face Intensive
Why you should train with us + Written for practitioners in an easy to follow format + Rewatchable online modules + Flexible schedule to avoid clashes with work + Up-to-date with AHPRA guidelines + FREE Ongoing support, membership & mentoring + Safety protocols & equipment in place + Small Training groups + Taught by Dr Giulia D’Anna, esteemed dentist, cosmetic injector & educator of almost seven years + Education backed by international & local medical practitioners
Dr Giulia D’Anna
Learn to use a Cannula for safer injecting
DERMAL DISTINCTION TRAINING ACADEMY www.dermaldistinction.com 3 Belmore Road, Balwyn North 3104 (03) 9859 7859
APJ 27
STAR PERFORMER
STEM CELL TECHNOLOGY IN SKINCARE
NOVEL, MYSTERIOUS, OR AN INNOVATIVE BREAKTHROUGH?
NeoGenesis, the science-based skin and hair products with breakthrough technology are proven to help skin feel better, providing clinicians and skin professionals alike with safe and effective products that help mitigate skin trauma. From surgery and oncology treatments, to chronic conditions such as psoriasis, eczema, and rosacea, to aesthetic concerns, such as ageing skin and acne, this innovative technology can support your clients’ skin naturally and without contraindications. NOT ALL STEM CELLS ARE EQUAL The NeoGenesis patented S²RM® technology uses healthy, adult human stem cells to help promote healing, not just of the skin's barrier, but the deeper dermal layers of the skin as well. There are major differences between stem cell types and the particular tissue from which they come from, making “skin-resident” stem cells key to the NeoGenesis biotechnology. Take the NeoGenesis hero product, RECOVERY, for example. This powerhouse serum has the highest concentration of S²RM® and is a true treatment serum that helps reduce inflammation, irritation and downtime post-treatment. Using the full cascade of molecules that these stem cells release, NeoGenesis utilises modern science and technology to promote healthy, luminous skin. Stem cells reside in every part of the body, but not all stem cells are effective or safe in skincare. Skin-resident stem cells are what naturally deliver the skin everything it needs to repair and maintain
"We tested the effects of RECOVERY on the chronological ageing of the skin in 20 subjects, all between the ages of 40-75. Topical application of RECOVERY was done twice daily. We measured an average 67% reduction in the number of lines, with a range between 57% and 75% reduction." - Dr. Greg Maguire, Co-Founder and Chief Scientific Officer
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itself throughout our lifetime. Different than bone marrow stem cells, which are most advantageous for shorter periods of time in severely emergent, traumatic conditions, skin-resident stem cells are safe for long-term use in skincare, do not show pro-cancerous or pro-ageing evidence, and are an effective, pro-healing part of inclinic treatment routines and aftercare. Although there is a great abundance of these stem cells when we are young and healthy, we begin to lose this volume as we age. That’s where the breakthrough happens - we can topically return to the skin what has been lost over time with nutrient-dense formulations rich in the molecules these stem cells release. This is a natural approach to healing that simply harnesses the body’s own native, regenerative power to help return skin and hair to a healthy state. Whether it’s a life changing diagnosis, accident, or chronic wound, pain can be challenging in unimaginable ways. Varying degrees of treatment can also add an immense amount of financial and emotional stress. The NeoGenesis mission is to gift this breakthrough technology to a million people who need these products, but can’t afford them. We meet these people through our for-profit professional partners, who are themselves clinicians, dermatologists, and groups dedicated to treating the skin. We also meet them through non-profit organisations who are serving those constituents. They bring us to people in need and together, we gift to them services and products to help improve their quality of life. Transforming skin is more than what's on the surface, it’s changing the way people feel and think about themselves to inspire confidence, positivity and hope. APJ "Our mission is to serve those in need, and to serve those who are serving those in need." - Steve McGee, NeoGenesis Co-founder and President/CEO To introduce NeoGenesis products into your clinic please contact info@neogenesis.com or visit www.neogenesis.com
N E X T G E N E R AT I O N S T E M C E L L S C I E N C E ™
AG EING SKI N
Power up your skin with S²RM® Technology. Introducing the next generation of stem cell science for skin and hair care: NeoGenesis patented S²RM® technology.
skin strengthening products
Treated by Donna Glazer, Face It Skin Clinic
ONCOLOGY SUP P ORT
RECOVERY A breakthrough in skin science and abundant in stem cell released molecules, this powerhouse serum dramatically improves anti-ageing results while speeding up the healing process and helping reduce inflammation for even the most chronic conditions.
PRO TIP: Recovery is
Treated by Sherri Widtfeldt, Sherri’s Skin Care
designed to be part of a layered S²RM® regimen so your products can work synergistically, feeding your skin from the deeper layers all the way to your top barrier, bringing you the best results, naturally.
P OW E RH OUS E SE RUM Recovery uses stem cell released molecules to deliver natural replenishment + healing support to the skin. AGEING SKIN CHRONIC SKIN CONDITIONS BUG BITES SUNBURN WOUND REPAIR
ONCOLOGY SAFE
HEALTHY BEAUTY
PATENTED STEM CELL TECHNOLOGY
(858) 751-4714 | neogenesis.com | info@neogenesis.com
ADVERTISING
Step-up your anti-ageing results and improve pigmentation conditions with RadianiX™ Entity’s exclusive sublingual glutathione wafer, RadianiX™ is now available to dermatologists, dermal clinicians, skin therapists and aestheticians for wholesale purchase. It comes attractively package in a 60-wafer pack and retails at $139.90.
literature as the master of all antioxidants. It is the most abundant antioxidant naturally found in human cells and is an important regulator of oxidative stress and immune function – all important issues of concern with all my clients.
In this article, Entity presents an exclusive interview with Catherine Lee who is an experienced and passionate dermal clinician. Catherine constantly strives to ensure flawless skin for her clients. She has been in the industry since 1998 and since 2004 has owned her own highly successful clinic, SKYN based in Subiaco, Western Australia. Catherine holds a Bachelor of Science (Dermal Therapies) and loves to achieve amazing skin treatment results for her clients.
In terms of its impact on the skin, recent research confirms that glutathione plays a crucial role in reventing hyperpigmentation as well as having a skin-lightening effect. The studies reveal that the reason that glutathione is useful for pigmentation conditions is due to its action as a tyrosinase inhibitor and its ability to suppress the expression of melanogenesis. It is also reported to assist with skin lightening by converting melanin into a lighter colour and deactivating the enzyme tyrosinase, which helps produce the pigment.
CATHERINE, WHAT IS YOUR EXPERIENCE WITH GLUTATHIONE? From my research I recognise that glutathione (GSH) is well supported in the
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Hyperpigmentation is generally induced by UV rays exposure, causing the formation of
reactive oxygen species (ROS). Exposure to UV radiation is the most important factor that causes undesirable hyperpigmentation. Because glutathione has regulating properties on melanogenesis and antioxidants in general, it is also protective against the ageing process – this dual benefit also makes glutathione of great value for most of my clients. Clients love RadianiX and report how their skin is so much brighter when using it every day. They often report that they are addicted to it. With RadianiX my clients are even happier with their treatment results. WHERE DO YOU SEE THE BENEFITS OF GLUTATHIONE WITH YOUR REGULAR TREATMENTS? I see glutathione being used as an adjunct to existing treatments and topical tyrosinase inhibitors. When we treat our clients with lasers and injectables, we
Catherine Lee Dermal Clinician
always recommend an SPF for protective purposes. However, to get best results from our treatments, especially those with darker skin, RadianiX is a mainstay as part of their skin regime. Like SPF, it should be used continuously to further enhance the results of our topical treatments. Long term use of hydroquinone and over the counter bleaching creams, although they have been popular for decades, are not ideal and can come with some undesirable side effects. Oral glutathione is a safe alternative, well-tolerated, as well as supports overall wellbeing. Another benefit is that I can provide my clients with a take-home oral application that can take their skin treatment results to higher level. WHAT ATTRACTED YOU TO RADIANIX? RadianiX is made in Australia and is TGA listed. It is a sublingual wafer that is specially formulated with WaferiX, a novel,
patented, sublingual wafer technology that allows for enhanced absorption and increase bioavailability – this is very important in order to gain the maximum benefit from glutathione. It is also easy to take, which clients love, while experiencing improvement in their skin treatment results. WHO CAN BENEFIT FROM USING RADIANIX? I would highly recommend everyone take RadianiX as it is an excellent adjunct to improving treatment outcomes, particularly those who want to stall the ageing process and prevent free radical damage.
Additionally, we have also seen clients with mature skin, as well as other skin abnormalities benefit from RadianiX as glutathione also overall supports the skin and body through its amazing antioxidant optimising benefit. APJ If you would like to introduce RadianiX to your clients, get in touch below.
0420 222 007 orders@ixsyrinx.com www.ixsyrinx.com
I have also seen excellent benefits with clients, particularly with those who are classified as Fitzpatrick skin types IV, V and VI with higher levels of pigmentation disorders.
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STAR PERFORMER
THE NEW REVOLUTION IN LEADING SKIN TREATMENT SOLUTIONS
PICOHI-300 – THE COMPLETE SYSTEM
Made in Korea, PICOHI-300 is the leading and most up to date of all pico-second lasers on the world market today. It is the only true 300 Pico laser with the Pico 300 wavelength, but with the added benefits of providing you with additional treatment choices, enabling you to deliver exceptional results for skin rejuvenation with guaranteed collagen stimulation. This device will also allow you to successfully treat all types of old and new scars, stretch marks, enlarged pores, melasma, pigmentation problems and much more. The PICOHI-300 is also able to remove ALL Tattoo colours, including white, yellow and green - which are the most challenging to remove, even with other Pico second lasers. This new advanced technology will provide your business with cutting-edge results delivered with greater speed and safety, enabling your salon or clinic to expand your services and attract a greater client/patient demographic. The industry is now moving from nanosecond laser treatments to picosecond lasers, with this next generation system working on a Stress Release Time of 300ps (replacing the superseded Photo Acoustic Thermal effect) also known as Stress Wave Therapy. EXTENSIVE TREATMENT OPTIONS The PICOHI-300 device will provide you with the ability to not only step up your treatment outcomes, but also safely and treat some of the most challenging skin conditions, successfully meeting client and patient expectations.
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With the PICOHI-300 you will be able to effectively treat an extensive array of stubborn skin conditions including: • Skin Rejuvenation •
Skin Tightening
•
Skin Whitening
•
Treatment of pigmentated lesions, freckles, age-spots and Melasma
•
Tattoo Removal
•
Acne and Burn scars
WRINKLES AND STRETCHMARKS KEY FEATURES THAT DIFFERENTIATE PICOHI-300 FROM OTHER LASERS, INCLUDING OTHER PICO LASERS • 300 Pico second duration but with 1.67GW of peak power. Uses PhotoMechanical (no heat is produced) or shock wave therapy, excellent for successfully treating melasma and pigmentation problems. •
Innovative 4-steps VMLA /DOE hand pieces are Fractional hand pieces with 14mm beam size can be used on all Fitzpatrick skin types I-6.
•
A wide variety of applicators with ergonomic design and Basic Zoom for 1064nm from 2mm to 10mm and 532nm in 1.5mm to 7.5mm for quick selections.
•
Sustainable RMS System with Mobile App system to help you directly from the manufacturer’s factory and technicians.
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Four different wavelengths namely 585nm, 650nm, 532nm and 1064nm with optional hand pieces in 2mm to 10mm spot sizes.
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Easy and convenient guide at "one touch" for ultimate and quick user convenience even for beginners.
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Integrated Management System for patient or client data, real-time device monitoring.
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Hand piece storage compartment and upper shelf display zone for easy treatment preparations
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Hidden front and back handles with shark air vent holes for better cooling of the system
Hironic (the manufacturers) are recognised as one of the leading Medical and Aesthetic companies listed on the Korean stock market. Hironic is renowned and highly regarded worldwide, particularly in the USA and considered the preferred PICO second system manufacturer. APJ
WITH THE PICOHI-300 YOU CAN ELEVATE YOUR REPUTATION AS A LEADER IN TREATMENT OUTCOMES. CALL 1800 628 999. Please check out clinicalpro.com.au or 2800 628 999.
Scan QR Code above for product video.
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PICOHI-300 TRUE 300PS PULSE DURATION A short 300ps pulse duration is clinically proven to maximise results. Treatments like Pigmentation require a pulse duration lower than 333ps to successfully achieve results without causing adverse effects.
VARIETY OF TREATMENTS PICOHI-300 does more than just tattoo removal. It provides additional sources of income for the business by delivering extra treatment opportunities for Laser Toning, Melasma, Inflammatory Acne, Nevus of Ota, Skin Whitening and Stretch Mark Reduction. SKIN REJUVENATION
After 15 Tx
After 5 Tx
PIGMENTATION
After 1 Tx
After 1 Tx
TATTOO REMOVAL
After 3 Tx
After 1 Tx Call 1800 628 999 www.clinicalpro.com.au APJ 33
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It is a well-known fact that a restful night’s sleep is the ideal time to trigger skin repair and rejuvenation. Now Issada has the perfect companion products to optimise this process. The ultimate 'before bed' skincare routine is all-inclusive in the ISSADA Beauty Sleep Skincare Pack providing you with a complete routine to optimise skin benefits. It provides the perfect products to helps tackle skincare concerns, such as acne scarring, skin irregularities and uneven skin tone, while hydrating and providing antiageing and antioxidant benefits. The ISSADA Beauty Sleep Skincare Pack contains everything you will need to support skin repair while you sleep. It includes the Issada Collagen Serum, the Issada Overnight Hydrating Masque and the revolutionary Derma Roller in a beautiful Cosmetic bag. Dermal-rolling works by creating microscopic wounds to stimulate collagen and elastin production, while plumping and smoothing out the skin. By applying the Issada hero Collagen Serum straight after dermal rolling you will ensure optimal product penetration of the active ingredients into the skin supporting antiageing, brightening and antioxidant benefits. Finish this off with the Overnight Hydrating Masque to lock in moisture, soothe, soften, and assist in cell repair while you sleep. This is the perfect homecare kit to complement your in-clinic treatments. APJ
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APJ 34
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APJ 35
AUSTRALIAN
The Simplicity of Wisdom AUSTRALIAN PROMINENT PERSONALITIES SHARE THE BEST ADVICE THEY HAVE EVERY RECEIVED.
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Honesty will always set your free. Toni Collette (actor) Anything you do, do it well and make sure you enjoy it.
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Success on work in thely comes before dictionary. John Bertrand (yachtsman )
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onal is excepti ver e n o y r e v E ing. Disco at sometht it, and it, work a ith it. prosper(cw ricketer) Shane Warne
Don’t cut too many corners, or you w up going round in ill end circles. Susie
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AND THE GOLDEN RULE THEY ALL QUOTED:
Do unto others that which you would wish that they do unto you. APJ 37
COSMETIC MEDICINE
THE SCIENCE OF WELLBEING AND THE ROLE OF OUR
MICROBIOME Dr Martina Lavery
THE MERGING OF DENTISTRY AND AESTHETICS is becoming an ever-growing phenomenon. As with cosmetic medicine, each discipline brings with it its specific areas of wisdom as the convergence of various disciplines can provide us with added benefits on a different level to what was considered previously possible. Dr Martina Lavery holds qualifications in both dentistry, cosmetic medicine and dermal therapies. In this article she brings insight on how new scientific findings are allowing these disciplines to contribute, not just to improving appearance, but more importantly, in supporting the wellbeing of the client and patient.
contribute to tighten saggy jowls. But we now also know the key role that oral bacterium and their genes (microbiome) play in ageing well. Aesthetic 'treatments' often polarise and are viewed as superficial procedures that only make you 'look' better, however, looking better leads to feeling better and complement the process of ageing well. Aesthetic practitioners cannot just ‘fill-a-line’ and hope for the best. We must embrace achieving optimal results for our patients with a global approach to wellbeing. THE IMPORTANT ROLE OF ORAL THE MICROBIOME
I am continually fascinated by the science of wellbeing, as I strive to implement a wellness model of dental medicine rather than just treating disease. Even as I write this article with the pandemic palpable, there are studies to suggest that an unhealthy mouth makes you more likely to contract COVID-19. There is now ongoing solid evidence on the role of our microbiome in supporting our immune system and our overall health. For me, this is an exciting time to be a practitioner as we experience the on-going new advances that are defining the wellness arena. Recent data published estimates that wellness innovations have been steadily growing since the onset of the pandemic. Research from the Global Wellness Institute (GWI) predicts that the global wellness economy will grow by 10% annually through to 2025 reaching approximately $8.2 trillion, so it's serious business. These advances will provide the astute wellness practitioner with great opportunities to expand their scope of practice and offer more comprehensive evidence-based results to their clients and patients. During and prior to the pandemic, the wellness focus in aesthetics and clinical practice is taking on an increasingly significant role. I practice with a high focus on facial aesthetics, which aligns synergistically with cosmetic dentistry and body wellness, always respecting the connection between the mouth and the body. In the aesthetic arena, injectable treatments, such as wrinkle relaxers and dermal fillers contribute only a limited piece of the rejuvenation puzzle for addressing wrinkles and restoring volume, as cosmeceuticals can also transform skin and energy devices also
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The oral microbiome is a set of microorganisms and their genetic makeup unique to the mouth. They work synergistically to create balance - health is a state of homeostasis. I believe the goal of every ethical and progressive practitioner, regardless of the system they work with, is to achieve homeostasis. When there is a disruption of numbers and diversity of bacteria in the microbiome, chaos occurs (a little like COVID-19 and its health disruption) leading to the manifestation of disease. As an aesthetic dentist my goal is to create an optimal oral microbiome for my patient as an important part of their foundational health. Just treating dental disease without an integrated approach is becoming archaic dentistry – we now have better tools to achieve more. My view is that the future of dentistry will incorporate a dental wellness model of dental medicine that includes whole-body wellness, expanded to include the assessment and measurement of inflammatory markers in the body by oral sampling. Our mouth is the gatekeeper of our wellbeing; it is a critical barrier to the external world and has a significant protective role. Research on the gut microbiome is abundant and new evidence is constantly coming to light. However, the importance of the oral microbiome has gained momentum in recent years. So how do these organisms get into the body from the mouth? They can enter the lungs or gut directly by swallowing and breathing, also indirectly via the bloodstream. When the mouth is unhealthy, the mucosal membrane on the inside mouth breaks down, impairing
barrier function. The membrane becomes more permeable (leaky) so think leaky gut is akin to a leaky mouth. The circulating bacteria creates inflammation, finding increased chronic pro-inflammatory markers in testing. The good news is that we don't have to accept that our ancestral health is finite. We are now able to improve our wellbeing. We have a 'core' microbiome, a baseline assigned to each of us, and a 'variable' microbiome unique to us, like a fingerprint. You can control the 'variable' species by external factors such as improving diet, hydration, exercise and sleep. Yes, COVID lockdowns can actively change our oral microbiome, if we find ourselves crawling from the fridge to the couch while surfing Netflix. Simple lifestyle changes can make a difference to the microbiome improving our overall health. Of course, good oral hygiene practices, such as brushing, flossing, regular visits to your dentist and reducing sugar intake have a massive role in achieving diversity and balance in the oral microbiome. It is important to note that consuming a high sugar diet may give us a temporary high, but it also elevates the number of Lactobacillus species which are opportunistic, disease-causing bacteria. High sugar consumption is proven to contribute to extrinsic ageing of the skin and body by glycation, accelerating disease processes in the body, known as inflammageing. VITAL AXES IN THE BODY There are several vital axes in the body that are currently well documented, such as the skin-gut axis, the gut-brain axis and the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis. I believe that the oral-gut axis will receive the attention it deserves in the coming decade. Gut health and mental health have an established link. New evidence describing the homologous nature of oral and gut bacteria supports that the mouth is more entwined in well-being than previously thought.
The future of health and wellness in medicine and dentistry is in our genes. It includes a personalised health strategy, utilising DNA sequences, targeted biomarkers to diagnose and create a bespoke treatment as part of dental medicine. Tracking inflammatory markers found in the mouth, testing for inflammation in the bloodstream, sequencing collagen breakdown markers (CRP-Creactive proteins) in gums and the gut will eventually become mainstream practice. So, don’t neglect to brush your teeth - your whole body needs you to. Dr Martina Lavery has practised as a preventive and cosmetic dentist for 24 years. In the last decade, her focus has been on creating a dental wellness model of health and full-body wellness integrated with facial aesthetics for her patients. The journey into the aesthetic industry complements her daily practice of cosmetic dentistry. A truly devoted and passionate advocate for creating safety and optimal outcomes in aesthetics has seen her expand her knowledge of dentofacial aesthetics by obtaining a Diploma in Dermal Therapies and has recently attained a Master of Science in Facial Aesthetics. In 2022 her vision to integrate these disciplines has resulted in creating a luxurious, evidence-based atelier clinic in the Hills District of Sydney. APJ
APJ 39
COSMETIC TATTOOING
COSMETIC TATTOOING COMES OF AGE
THE LAUNCH OF A NEW DIPLOMA QUALIFICATION An interview with Robert McGowan
OVER SEVERAL YEARS COSMETIC TATTOOING has expanded as a modality with new more sophisticated techniques that offer increased capability in not just improving one’s appearance, but also supporting medical conditions that may manifest such as scarring, balding and even skin discolouration. Up until now, the closest think for a formal qualification has been a Unit of Competency, This was embedded into the Diploma of Beauty Therapy. The SHBBSKS003 Design and Provide Cosmetic Tattooing was the only means by which cosmetic tattooing could be studied as a government-approved training. While the SHBBSKS003 did provide recognised training, it has been often overlooked for non-accredited courses that can only offer a Statement of Attainment. Within Australia, the AQF (Australian Qualifications Standards) dictate the specific requirements for the defining of qualifications. Under AQF requirements a “Diploma” cannot be issued unless it is linked to government-accredited training and delivered, either through a Registered Training Organisation or a tertiary institution. While the industry, including industry bodies such as APAN have put forward strong recommendations for a more robust standalone qualification for Cosmetic Tattooing, this action could not be addressed until the Beauty Training Package was up for review, which happened three years ago. We are pleased to report that this process has finally been completed and earlier this year the SHB50320 Diploma in Cosmetic Tattooing was signed off and launched as the first full qualification for Cosmetic Tattooing in Australia. Since this announcement, our office has been inundated
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with concerns from both potential students, as well as existing practitioners as to how this qualification will impact them. To address this topic, we interviewed Robert McGowan, one of the Directors at THinkAesthetics – a leading Registered Training Organisation that specialises in cosmetic tattoo training. Robert and Liz McGowan have invested more than 1000 hours in preparing for the delivery of this qualification. We caught up with Robert to answer some of the more common questions that concern the industry. APJ Q1: Robert, what is the new qualification? The new qualification is a full diploma that has been developed over the past three years to cover all the important aspects of cosmetic tattoo treatments, including brows, lips, eyeliner, scalp micropigmentation and 3D nipple areola simulation. APJ Q2: What is the difference? What has changed? The current qualification is just one Unit of Competency, which is in theory up to 100 hours of learning. The new diploma consists of nine Units of Competency, including options, so it is much more comprehensive. APJ Q3: Who decided on this new diploma? The new diploma is part of a revision the Beauty Package, which covers everything from facials to lash treatments, and massages to cosmetic tattooing, and covers Cert I to IV qualifications as well as diplomas. Training package reviews normally happen every five years, but COVID has stretched this out for the Beauty Package to seven years.
For package revisions and new training packages, the national VET regulator, the Australian Skills Quality Authority, appoints a specialist organisation to work with the relevant industry. For the Beauty Package the specialist organisation has been SkillsIQ. For the new cosmetic tattoo diploma, SkillsIQ appointed an Industry Reference Committee and a Technical Advisory Committee (TAC) to help them. APJ Q4: Please explain the content of the new diploma? There are four core units, which are compulsory. These are on consultations, pigments and colour theory, skin, and cosmetic tattoo design. Before any practical training, it is a requirement to get a formal infection control qualification if you don’t have one already. One of the things we were able to change from Draft 1 was that you have a choice of infection control qualification, either the one in the Beauty Package, or HLTINF005 Maintain Infection Prevention for Skin Penetration Treatments, which is required in Queensland and increasingly the preferred infection control qualification in other states and territories. This means you only must get one infection control qualification. The rest of the diploma consists of five electives, so there is a lot of choice. There are five practical skills units, and all of these are electives. You can choose to do one or more of brows, lips, eyeliner, scalp micropigmentation and 3D nipple areola. Interestingly you can do
one or all five. Say if you just do brows, you will get a Diploma of Cosmetic Tattooing (Brows). You still must do five electives in total, and the other options are business units or a unit on social media. APJ Q5: How long will it take to complete? The volume of learning for a diploma is usually intended to be 1200 hours, which is of course a very long course compared to the previous single Unit of Competency. Every college who will deliver this new diploma has to work out how they will do it. The test is whether the student has all the required skills at the end of the course. It is really important to understand that no-one simply hands down the course and says, “there you go, deliver that”. At THink we are working very hard to prepare all the new content and use all the best parts of our existing courses to have the new diploma ready. Some organisations may sell content for the diploma to RTOs. We will be very interested to see what happens there. To answer your question, an experienced technician who works hard on the diploma content should be able to get the qualification within a few months. A lot of it will be self-paced learning, or at least that is how we’re planning it at our college. APJ Q6: How much will it cost? Good question! That will depend on the electives chosen, and of course for a lot of technicians with experience or formal training they will have the choice of what is called the RPL or Recognition of
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Prior Learning pathway. Courses will in many cases need to be custom built. At this stage we prefer that people talk to us about their circumstance before giving a figure. Also, we are still developing some of the course materials and all the back-end mapping and assessment information required by the regulator that the student doesn’t see, so we must see the total cost of the course development as well. APJ Q7: What if I have the current Unit of Competency, Design and Provide Cosmetic Tattooing? This will certainly help a lot with getting the diploma through the RPL pathway. There is however a lot more information in the new diploma, and students will have to demonstrate they have that knowledge. Almost certainly students will have to do the core units and pass them as part of the RPL pathway. APJ Q8: What if I already have a diploma in cosmetic tattooing? This is the first time there has been a diploma in cosmetic tattooing in Australia, so if you have a certificate that says “diploma”, it is either from overseas or, locally, sadly, you’ve been ripped off. Some unaccredited trainers call their certificates “diplomas”, but it doesn’t really mean anything as it doesn’t meet any recognised standard. APJ Q9: I’ve seen blogs that say you can do a Cert IV instead of a diploma. Is this true? No, unfortunately. We heard about this recently and immediately contacted SkillsIQ to see if there was any truth in the story, and the there isn’t. It seemed like a very strange story considering the long journey we have been on to finalise the diploma?
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APJ Q10. Are there traineeship options for the Diploma in Cosmetic Tattooing? This is another rumour that has been going around. Again, SkillsIQ confirmed a traineeship is not an option. We can see why that could be helpful, but this doesn’t appear to have been considered by the Technical Advisory Committee. APJ Q11: When will the new diploma be available? The new Beauty Package, including the cosmetic tattoo diploma, was recently approved by each of the education ministers in each state and territory, which was the final stage of approval, Now, all the information on all the qualifications has to be loaded onto the government training website, and apparently it is in a queue. There are over 100 units of competency for the Beauty Package alone, so it might be a few weeks away. After that, RTOs must apply to have the qualification on their scope and get their trainers through the course first, so we anticipate that within the first 2-3 months in 2022 the course will go live. In the meantime, there will be what is called a ‘teach out’ period for the existing Design and Provide qualification, and we urge anyone who doesn’t have it but will want the diploma to consider getting that first. IN CONCLUSION We believe that the Diploma in Cosmetic Tattooing will set a new more robust qualification standard for the profession and while it will probably take a few years before all other training will become superseded, ultimately it will become the only entry level standard for future PMU/Cosmetic Tattoo practitioners. APJ
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INGREDIENT SCIENCE
ORANGE PEEL CBD
THE NEW BREAKTHROUGH IN CANNABINOIDS Tina Viney
Did you know that our bodies produce cannabinoids naturally? They’re located throughout our bodies and form part of the endocannabinoid system - the system that is involved in processes that affect our appetites, pain-sensations, moods, and memory. As we known, cannabis plants produce phytocannabinoids, the plant version of cannabinoids. When we consume cannabis, it binds to our cannabinoid receptors and interacts with it, giving us effects such as the infamous munchies. Many people believe we can only get CBD from cannabis and the hemp industry has taken huge advantage of this misconception. Hemp-derived CBD is very cheap and useful in the right context. But are cannabis plants the only plants produce useful phytocannabinoids that functionally interact with our bodily receptors? Studies now confirm that there are several plant-based sources that produce phyto-cannabinoids. CBD REVOLUTION FROM ORANGE PEELS Orange peel-derived CBD is the exciting new discovery as an effective cannabinoid. For decades, we assumed cannabinoids could not be synthesised as they’re too unstable, so the only way to obtain THC and CBD was from the Cannabis sativa plant. But some terpenes found in cannabis are very similar to cannabinoids, and they could potentially become these same molecules. Scientists claimed it might be possible to create cannabinoids from terpenes, but the technological infrastructure needed to achieve this on a large scale wasn't available until recently. Today it's possible, but at an exorbitant cost. All this changed with the advent of a new technique known as “Cyclic Terpene Assembly”, which makes these compounds available to researchers and consumers in a way never seen before. The goal is to provide the market with cannabinoids devoid of the drawbacks and limitations derived from processing natural plants extracts. Many of these methods use toxic solvents and crops that
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call for intensive of environmental resources, and often are contaminated with heavy metals, mycotoxins, and pesticides that can't be completely removed. Above all, the Cyclic Terpene Assembly technique is showing huge therapeutic potential of compounds like CBD, as they must be available in a pure and consistent form to allow for thorough and replicable research. Therefore, the technique has managed to turn what many considered a dream into a fully-fledged reality. LIMONENE: AN ESSENTIAL TERPENE IN NATURE Limonene is a monoterpene widely used in both the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries and with a presence in many modern cannabis varieties. Its organoleptic and medicinal properties have placed it in a privileged position when compared to other terpenes, while the scientific community is increasingly interested in its multiple effects. Nevertheless, while limonene is a powerful antioxidant, it lacks the unique traits that make CBD such a sought-after compound. CBD, for example, interacts directly with the brain's neuroreceptor 5HT1A, and has a high affinity for TRP receptors, which have been linked to inflammation and pain sensation. In order to give limonene, the exact same properties of CBD, it needs a complete makeover. This new technique known as “Cyclic Terpene Assembly” (CTA) takes the isolated limonene from the citrus peels and rebuilds it as a 99,9% pure CBD extract. This process not only transforms a waste product into something useful, but also addresses the concerns that are slowing down the growth of the CBD international market. Even a single molecule derived from cannabis is too much for certain customs authorities. Citruses' by-products will dispel this worry. CBD and THC are the two most prevalent cannabinoids found in cannabis. THE MAGIC OF CYCLIC TERPENE ASSEMBLY Let's take a look at the Cyclic Terpene Assembly (CTA) technique. This method doesn't use solvents, and the only factors involved are a mixture of catalysers, temperatures, and cooling rates to produce bioidentical cannabinoids out of terpenes.
Basically, terpenes like limonene are adjusted at a molecular level using only kinetic force. This means there won’t be ethanol, CO2, or other residues in the CBD; only pure cannabidiol reconstructed from orange peels. By changing a few molecular bonds, we can convert limonene and other terpenes into a wide variety of cannabinoids. This is something that has been known for years, but thanks to CTA, now it's finally possible to do it on a large scale using just physics-based synthesis processes. The result is a very valuable substance derived from a citrus industry by-product that would have been wasted otherwise, and more reliable than any other type of CBD on the market. Even under optimal conditions, it's extremely difficult to obtain repeatable results from cannabis plant cultures. CTA produces the same result every time – a 99.0% pure CBD extract with no traces of any other cannabis compounds. Indeed, citrus-derived CBD is bioidentical to hemp-derived cannabidiol, meaning that these two substances share the exact same molecular structure. It’s not a synthetic cannabinoid produced in a laboratory. Everything involved in the process is found in nature, and everything created by the process is also found in nature. Furthermore, pure CBD extract from citrus is odourless and tasteless. WHAT ABOUT THE ENTOURAGE EFFECT? Many CBD users are aware of the entourage effect, a term used to describe the synergy of several cannabinoids and terpenes working together to enhance their effects (and which you can obtain from, for example, full-spectrum CBD oils). But in the same way that is possible to create CBD from citrus peels, it’s also possible to create other cannabinoids from the natural compounds found in this waste product. The CTA technique is also being used to reconstruct the entourage effect with cannabinoids from different sources other than cannabis. In the future, users will be able to choose any cannabinoid, terpene, and other citrus-derived substances to add to their topical products, capsules, and vape cartridges, in the desired amounts. There is hope for more, as scientists believe that they will also be able to create minor cannabinoids found in very small amounts in cannabis (like CBG or THCV) to fight some of the more prevalent diseases in the world. CITRUS-DERIVED CBD MARKET While citrus-derived CBD is expected to be the norm in five years or less (the same way some terpene profiles from other plants are taking over the shelves of today's grow shops), currently there are at least 25 companies developing methods to synthesise cannabinoids on a large scale. These businesses use different patented techniques, like CTA, but also other biosynthetic methods based on yeasts, bacteria, unicellular algae, and even different plants like hops. Terpene profiles replicate cannabis aromas from different plants other than marijuana. One of the first companies to do this was Hiro International, a Japanese fruit importer. In early 2020, they announced the orange peels they imported from the U.S. could be used to produce a CBD structurally identical to that of hemp. Since then, the company uses this CBD in oil form in multiple applications and offers a wide range of health and beauty products containing CBD oil from orange peels. Japan has very strict cannabis laws. However, they are mainly centred on THC and cannabis-derived products. The CBD extracted from orange peels does not belong to any category, which is great news for Japanese citizens interested in exploring the potential benefits of CBD.
A few companies from more developed and tolerant markets, such as the American, have been offering orange peel-derived CBD since 2018. Some of these brands include Citrus CBD, DiolPure, CBxShield, Nectar Botanicals, and Citroso, which are also starting to claim their market share. MAKING CBD MORE ACCESSIBLE TO CONSUMERS In addition to the final product consistency, using orange peels to produce CBD also has a more positive environmental impact, especially in terms of sustainability. A thousand tons of citrus fruits are grown all over the world every year. Despite accounting for about 50% of the fresh citrus weight, their peels have very few uses, so they usually end up in landfills. Instead of using extensive farmland and millions of litres of water and pesticides to grow hemp, or having huge indoor growing operations, harnessing a by-product of the citrus industry is contributing to the circular economy of these crops. Something that is significantly more sustainable than hemp-derived CBD. So, how does orange peel-based CBD compare with hemp-based CBD? Here is a brief comparison: ORANGE PEEL-BASED CBD •
Bio-identical CBD molecule
•
Made from terpenes in citrus peels, which is pure, consistent and contains no residue or solvents.
•
The hero ingredient, orange peels, is diverted away from citrus farms’ waste stream and repurposed.
•
Odourless and tasteless in raw form.
•
Available nationwide.
HEMP-BASED CBD •
Extracted CBD molecule
•
THC and CBD content vary from plant to plant, so ability to deliver a standardised product is limited.
•
Cannabis is a resource-intensive crop: An acre can consume up to 1M gallons of water.
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•
Potent cannabis has a strong smell and taste.
•
Regulations vary by state.
According to several studies, topical cannabinoids offer many benefits to several skin disorders including acne, psoriasis, eczema as well as for dry and ageing skin. Most of its benefits are attributed to CBD’s anti-inflammatory properties and in its ability to enhance skin health. OTHER PLANTS BESIDES CANNABIS THAT PRODUCE CANNABINOIDS Did you know that cacao, black pepper, echinacea, electric daisies, and Japanese liverwort are currently the most common alternatives to cannabis phyto-cannabinoids? Each plant differs slightly in its’ structures yet still delivers a healing biological effect. 1. CACAO Cacao, Theobroma Cocoa, is a superfood that contains various chemicals that makes your brain “happy”. Cacao is rich in anandamide, which is naturally produced in our brains. Anandamide is the body’s version of THC (Tetrahydrocannabinol). It produces a sense of euphoria much like that of being high. However, you’ll only experience the full effects of cacao if it’s naturally sourced and unprocessed. 2. BLACK PEPPER The plant with the most surprising similarity to cannabis is black pepper. Both black pepper and strains of cannabis contain something called beta-caryophyllene. That something is responsible for the smell of black pepper and many strains of cannabis. Black pepper and cannabis initiate response within the same cannabinoid receptors, and they are both providers of invaluable anti-inflammatory properties and ease of pain, this is why you will find black pepper included in pain-management essential oil formulas. 3. ECHINACEA (Coneflower) Echinacea, more commonly known as the Coneflower, is a remedy for the cold or flu symptoms. Those symptoms also include relief from anxiety, migraines, fatigue, nausea, and conditions such as arthritis. This flower’s similarity to cannabis is in the way it reduces manages pain, inflammation and the immune system,
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4. ELECTRIC DAISY Electric daisy. This vibrant flower is bright and beautiful, living up to its given name. However, the electric daisy provides us with something incredible and unsuspecting. This flower can be used to block our pain receptors at the nerve endings. Electric daisy and cannabis both regulate pain and inflammation throughout the whole body. A beautiful flower that blocks pain receptors is quite amazing and not used enough. 5. JAPANESE LIVERWORT Digestive system issues? No problem. The Japanese liverwort plan is extremely well known for its power for healing the bladder, liver, gallbladder and related problems. Many people suffering from respiratory problems such as sinusitis or bronchitis, should also make use of this plant. Why? Because it, just like cannabis, is instrumental in treating respiratory problems, especially those that are chronic. From pain to illness to chronic problems, phytocannabinoids that functionally interact with our receptors are invaluable to our health, beyond their health benefits-no negative side effects and no addiction. Although these plants are alternatives to cannabis phytocannabinoids and its benefits, the cannabis plant offers us the combined benefits of all those plants in one. IN CONCLUSION It is now considered mainstream that true beauty in its foundation, incorporates wellness for long-term sustainability of any procedure. The merging of wellness principles within beauty modalities is also progressively being integrated into training and qualifications. Your clients will welcome any products or services you provide them with that can support multiple benefits, such as minimising stress, improving calmness in the body and relieving any existing pain or discomfort they may be experiencing in their body. This is an area where formal qualification will provide you with an advantage as you consider expanding your scope of practice. Mindful of these advances APAN is committed to progressively providing you with valuable, evidence-based information to help you expand your knowledge. APJ
STAR PERFORMER
GIVING YOUR CLIENTS’ SKIN THE COMFORT IT NEEDS THIS SEASON WE all know that the past two years have been a roller coaster ride for our businesses and our wellbeing. If you have in recent months reopened again, no doubt your clients have been so eager to see you and have their skin nurtured n your caring hands. Some clients may be keen to get straight back into their advanced treatments that they have been missing. However, we need to be mindful of so many factors we have been facing over the last several months. Consider the following: Your clients will have been exposed to very different factors that are not their usual: the constant mask wearing, working from home, stresses that lockdown may have imposed on them (both mentally and financially) and how vaccination may affect their responses to treatments. Stress, inflammation and vaccinations can tax our entire body and cause our skin to be extra sensitive, or even just sensitive to those who normally tolerate any treatment well. Any vaccination generates a massive boost in your immune system so that it can build a defence mechanism against the virus we are targeting. Therefore, we must be mindful of how our clients may respond different to our treatments. A key focus as we start treating our clients again in a gentle and comforting way. For this exact reason, one of our take home/
holiday packs this year from Dermatonics is the Comfort Skincare Pack. Just what our skin needs to help nourish it back to better health by helping to repair the skin barrier and soothe and calm inflammation. A key feature of Dermatonics is that we formulate mainly with supercritical fluid extracted active ingredients. What this does for your actives is help remove impurities and contaminating chemicals to provide ultra-pure and active ingredients for your client’ skin. This is great when we want to eliminate as many things as possible that may irritate our clients’ skin. Our carefully curated holiday pack includes two of our top selling products: our #1 selling Nourishing Face Oil and our Beauty Elixir. Our Nourishing Face Oil is beautiful for hydrating and soothing the skin and features our unique ingredient to the Dermatonics® range – Curcuma xanthorrhiza. This unique species of the Curcuma family (also referred to as turmeric) has been demonstrated to have very high anti-inflammatory activity, which is central to helping calm and soothe the skin. This face oil has often been referred to as ‘liquid gold’ and a ‘game changer’ for the skin, and clients often fall in love with it as soon as they experience it. Our Beauty Elixir is the #1 selling daily moisturiser in the Dermatonics range for many reasons. It absorbs beautifully into the skin, leaving the skin hydrated and matte. It is packed with numerous natural active ingredients that help boost collagen and antioxidant levels and is excellent for sensitive skin, including rosacea-prone and eczemaprone skin. We’ve then topped this trio off with our Revitalising Eye Cream which helps nourish the delicate eye area and is especially effective at helping with under eye dark circles. A beautiful trio for your clients to help compliment your treatments and comfort their skin. So do remember to have fun seeing your clients again this season and enjoy nurturing and comforting their skin. APJ DERMATONICS® is proudly Australian-made, clinical exclusive and results-driven formulations. 02 9188 8819 info@dermatonics.com.au dermatonics.com.au
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PERSONAL DEVELOPMENT
Living and Reigning with WISDOM TINA VINEY
AS WE REVIEWED OUR MENTAL HYGIENE PROGRAM and examined various evidence-based tools that are validated to work to improve mental health and wellbeing, we were amazed at the simplicity of the exercises that neuroscience confirms can help reshape the brain for greater joy and productivity. Most of the strategies and exercises are extremely simple, so much so that we can easily miss the point of doing them. However, as we learn to put them into practice, progressively they can totally change our life. Going through these exercises it become very apparent to us that knowledge alone is not enough. It is in the wisdom of applied knowledge that is the key to be better equipped to succeed in our endeavours. Understanding how to take an idea and apply it is transformative, this is wisdom. So, let’s explore wisdom as a state of being and how it can help us rise above and conquer obstacles that we may be facing each day. Having wisdom isn’t often considered as the grandest attribute to aspire to. It may be considered a little lofty. It doesn’t sound like something one could ever consciously strive to be – unlike say, being cultured, or kind. Others could perhaps compliment you on being it, but it wouldn’t be something you could ever announce you have become. Nevertheless, although it’s impossible ever to reach a stable state of wisdom as an aspiration, wisdom deserves to be pursued and to take its place among attributes of excellence that we seek to cultivate. Why? Because wisdom builds us up, while knowledge puffs us up. When weaving wisdom in any decision, it will allow us to reach successful breakthroughs in our communication with other that we
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cannot achieve by just relying on knowledge and facts. We can take something ordinary and elevated it to a whole new dimension. Wisdom makes looking at challenges as something to explore - as an adventure instead of a threat. Looking at a situation with a level of wisdom allows you to bring new elements into consideration that can turn a potential bad situation and re-frame it into something benevolent. Let’s look at wisdom in action and explore how it can influence our thinking and our decisions. REALISM: The wise are first and foremost, ‘realistic’ about how challenging many things can be. They aren’t devoid of hope and optimism, but they are conscious of the complexities entailed in any project: for example, raising a child, starting a business, resolving communication differences with your staff or with a problematic, or volatile client. Wisdom always finds a way to pacify contentions and still win. Knowing that something difficult is being attempted doesn’t rob the wise of ambitions, but it makes them more steadfast to remain calm and therefore less prone to panic and emotional outbursts. GRATITUDE: The wise are open to moments of calm and beauty, even with simple uneventful things, such as stepping back to enjoy the sun-ray streaming through their window, the smell of freshly brewed coffee, or even a friendly brief exchange with a trusted friend. It isn’t that they are sentimental and naive, precisely the opposite: because they have seen how hard things can get, they know how to draw the full value, sweetness and peace from small, insignificant events in order to maintain their emotional equilibrium at a happy place. Basting in gratitude is one of the most powerful survival strategies we can cultivate. FOLLY: The wise know that all human beings, themselves included, are at times deeply entangled in momentary fantasies and unrealistic expectations. They expect that from time to time in their life’s journey, they will encounter immaturity alongside intelligence and logic. They recognise that by accepting that this
will occur they are better prepared to face such moments with calmness. The wise have also learned the value of not taking life too seriously and are comfortable at laughing at themselves. POLITENESS: The wise are realistic about differences in social relations. They are therefore extremely reticent about rushing to frankly tell others what they think. The wise are acutely aware when being confrontational with others is not wise, especially if they perceive dogmatism and a lack of openness in others in considering another perspective. They seek above all – that ‘things’ be nice between people, even if this means they are not totally authentic. That means that they will sit with someone of an opposite political persuasion and not try to convert them; they will hold their tongue with someone who seems to be announcing a wrong-headed plan for reforming the country, educating their child or directing their personal life. They are aware of how differently life can look through the eyes of others and will seek to connect with what they have in common with others rather than discuss what separates them. We can all relate to this one! SELF-ACCEPTANCE: The wise have made their peace with the gap between how they would ideally want to be and where they actually are. They have come to terms and are unapologetic about their flaws, imperfections and limitations acknowledging that they are a work in progress, without pretending that they have the answers to everything. Honesty and humility underpin their selfacceptance, this helps others to also be themselves without feeling judged because of their imperfections. FORGIVENESS: The wise are realistic about other people too. They recognise the extraordinary pressures everyone is under to pursue their own ambitions, defend their interests and seek their own objectives. While pressures can at times lead to unbecoming behaviour in others and they can appear extremely ‘mean’ and intentionally evil, they choose to not take their behaviour as a personal assault. The wise know that most hurt is not intentional, often it is a by-product of the constant collision of blind competing egos in a world of scarce resources. It can also sometimes be as a result of fear or pain that someone may be going through, as they find themselves frustrated with inadequate coping mechanisms to face their challenges.
emerge as realistic about the consequences of winning and succeeding. They may want to win as much as the next person, but they also measure the cost of achieving rapid success and measure this against their values and their priorities. Success is not viewed as a narrow definition of acquiring possessions, it may be viewed as achieving a more non-tangible pursuit, such as investing in the welfare of others. The wise see the continuities across those two categories and are cautious of the over-emphasis of the modern interpretation of success and failure. REGRETS: In our ambitious age, it is common to begin with dreams of being able to pull off an unblemished life, where one can hope to achieve guaranteed success, such as in their personal life and their profession. But the wise realise that it is impossible to fashion a spotless life; one may make some extremely large and sometimes ‘non-correctable’ errors in a their life. Perfectionism can be a wicked illusion. The wise recognised that errors will occur in life – it is part of the human condition. It is unrealistic to look at anyone’s life story without expecting to also find some devastating mistakes etched across it. These errors are not coincidental but structural; they arise because we may have lacked the right information to make the right choices, or did not put enough thought before making a decision. The wise recognise that errors will happen, they learn from them, and use them as steppingstones towards better decisions. CALM: The wise know that turmoil is always around the corner – and they have come to recognise and sense its approach. They nurture and consciously cultivate to master the quality of calm. An uneventful quiet evening at home feels like an achievement. A day without anxiety is something to be celebrated. They are grateful for small mercies and value them. Going through these scenarios, I am sure you would have identified yourself and how wisdom has played out in your own circumstance, but above all, I trust you appreciated the power of wisdom in making life’s journey better tolerated, if not more enjoyable. APJ
The wise are therefore slow to anger and judge. They don’t leap to the worst conclusions about what is going on in the minds of others. They tend to be ready to forgive, as they understand how different and difficult every life can be. The wise appreciate the pressures people are under and are generous as to the reasons for which people might not be nice. They feel less persecuted by the aggression and meanness of others because they have a sense of where it comes from: a place of hurt or pressure. RESILIENCE: The wise have a solid sense of their capacity to survive. They know just how much can go wrong and things may at times be barely liveable. The unwise person often draws the boundaries in search of their contentment too far out, so that it seeks it through external possessions, personal relationships or popularity. On the other hand, the wise person sees the advantages of all of these, but also knows that they may have to draw the borders right back and find contentment within a more simple or restricted space. They are realistic rather than idealistic, protecting themselves from potential disappointment. ENVY: The wise person doesn’t waste their energy on envying others. They realise their time may not have come and examine what they can do better to reach the rewards others are enjoying. At the same time, the wise recognise that life isn’t always fair. Some people are promoted randomly. Companies that aren’t especially deserving can suddenly make it big. Some people have the right parents. The winners aren’t always noble and good. The wise
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INDUSTRY UPDATE
The Role Of Professional Communities In Industry Reforms
IN YEARS GONE BY, BELONGING TO AN INDUSTRY ASSOCIATION WAS IMPORTANT. It was an essential part of being recognised as a committed professional and considered a point of pride and a mark of commitment to excellence. Industry associations played several roles in civil society. They were the unifying bodies that spearheaded a variety of industry activities bringing the industry together for information exchange and to enhance their knowledge and skills. They were the leading industry voice that staged events through various platforms where individuals and institutions alike were able to congregate and foster connection as one professional community. This included practitioners, trainers, suppliers, researchers and educational institutions and often government representatives. In this environment, associations aimed to gain valuable insight on the dynamics of their industry, their needs and expectations, as well as areas that require further development and support. Armed with this information, they provided leadership direction and designed initiatives that would best meet the needs of the industry.
practice that support the collective reputation of the profession. Ethics unify us by agreeing to a Code that supports integrity and professionalism. Poor conduct impacts not just the practitioner and their business, it also tarnishes the reputation of the profession, bringing it to disrepute. While we all have our own definition of ethics, ultimately it is an association’s role to establish an independent CODE OF ETHICS to which the industry will agree to abide by. An industry Code of Ethics must include various divisions including client relations, business practices, professional development, health regulations and much more. It is a very important document to which members are required to adhere to and so should their staff, by doing so they create a professional environment of uniform standards of practice.
In essence, an association’s role is a very important and specific one, with the chief aims to exert a positive influence on the industry for raising the standards and supporting their progress. With the media, it can provide a corporate voice for the industry it represent and with the Government, advocate and lobby for reforms and regulatory changes. Associations can service the industry through a focus on four specific areas:
2. Defining and Establishing Best Practice: New modalities are constantly introduced within our industry. They promise more advanced results, but also carry a level of risk. Until such time that the government introduces regulatory guidelines, it is the association’s responsibility to determine best practice standards and Position Statement that will guide and protect the industry from potential adverse incidents. All association members should be supported with resources documents that are legally written and provide best practice policies for their protection and professional standing.
1. Defining of Ethics and Standards of conduct: Particularly in the personal services industry, all practices must adhere to an agreed standard of behaviour based on clearly defined ethical standards of conduct. These not only foster a commitment to safety for the consumer, but also uphold the standards of
3. Educational Development: The speed of knowledge is constantly on the increase. To put it into context, in 1900 human knowledge doubled approximately every 100 years. By the end of 1945 the rate was every 25 years. The “Knowledge Doubling Curve”, as it’s commonly known, was created by
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Buckminster Fuller in 1982 who conducted a study on this information. Today human knowledge is reported as doubling every 13 months, and with the Internet we are quickly on our way of doubling of knowledge every 12 hours especially in wellness and health science. Associations have a responsibility to provide valuable industry intelligence to educational institutions who are looking at developing qualifications. This is a very important and often time-consuming task that should be within an association’s duty-of- care ensuring that any new qualifications include skills and knowledge relevant to the changing needs of businesses. 4. Regulatory representations: This is a very specialised area that predominantly has two divisions: a. Industrial Relations – These usually come under Federal Law and involve Wage Awards which are mostly aliened against qualifications. Wage awards are reviewed annually. b. Health and Safety Regulations – These are very complex. Depending on the modality reviewed, they can come under different governmental jurisdictions e.g. LASER AND IPL would come under Radiation Health, SKIN PENETRATION PROCEDURES Health and Safety (Infection Control), ANAESTHETICS come under the Drugs and Poisons Act. PIGMENT SAFETY Environmental Hazards Unit, Health Protection Branch, Department of Health. CLAIMS under TGA and ACCC, WAGES come under Fairwork Law. Regulatory procedures are embedded into State Law and require a great deal of skill and time in their development. Once they are passed, they need to be accepted individually by each state, this is why we often find that each state has different laws. The only way that a regulatory law can apply nationally is if the authorising body is under Commonwealth Law (but that is another issue). Suffice to say, that individuals cannot implement regulatory change by liaising with government agencies. This task falls within the responsibility of industry bodies, as the Government looks at two issues – the skills and knowledge of the industry body and how extensive is their representation, in other words, how many members do they represent. Therefore, associations are only as powerful as the number of industry professionals who support then and whom they represent. 5. On-going Professional Development: As we are involved in the personal services industry those who perform facial treatments are now competing with cosmetic nurses, cosmetic doctors and cosmetic dentists, most of who now start with assessing their patients’ skin, while also offering skin treatments as well their cosmetic medical procedures. Allied Health and Cosmetic Medicine professionals to retain their registration with AHPRA must provide evidence of their currency of knowledge, through conferences they have attended or courses they have completed that allocate CPD points (Continued Professional Development program). APAN has an established a CPD program which is trademarked. ARAP (APAN Registered Aesthetics Practitioner) with several sub-categories and CTARP (Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner). This program is important both to medical and non-medical practitioners and is also a form of Self-Regulation. To support this program we offer several courses available on our website and also conduct the most comprehensive Aesthetics Conference Program each year with up to 40 robust lecture segments.
WHY HAVE MOST BEAUTY ASSOCIATIONS FAILED TO SURVIVE? Many of the services that were traditionally provided by associations spilt over to private companies. Various magazines entered the beauty market, supplies were conducting their own conferences and launched their own magazines.This limited the industry’s reliance on associations for objective standards, as well as infringed on their potential revenue for their survival. Furthermore, with the advent of social media, many within the beauty and cosmetic tattoo industry turned to social media platforms as their sole professional communities. This trend contributed to over 50% reduction in association memberships across many industries, not just in Australia, but globally. Additionally, as associations are predominantly funded by membership, many associations that were not providing other services to support their members, were unable to survive. CHANGES TO SOCIAL MEDIA PLATFORMS Recent financial reports are indicating that Facebook and its sister properties Instagram and WhatsApp are suffering from ongoing, global outages. In February this year several media reports announced that Facebook alone lost more than $232 billion in revenue following the announcement that the company was losing daily users for the first time ever. On the 4th February something inside Facebook caused the company to revoke key digital records that tell computers and other Internet-enabled devices how to find these destinations online. Mark Zuckerberg posted a statement on his page highlighting how feedback from users has demonstrated a need to go back to friends and family, over business when it comes to content. “Recently we’ve gotten feedback from our community that public content — posts from businesses, brands and media — is crowding out the personal moments that lead us to connect more with each other.” THE TIDE IS CHANGING Since the global pandemic, we are also seeing many professionals and business owners returning to associations for reliable support and advice. In 2020 as a result of responding and adapting to change, we launched the COVID-19 CLINICAL SAFETY POLICY and as a result APAN experienced a 60% membership increase. We live in uncertain times when managing change requires professional guidance, support and advice and this needs to come from an industry authority rather than that unregulated opinions that may be shared through social media. In 2022 APAN launched its own Mental Hygiene and Business Development program as a gift to all its members. The program has a comprehensive manual guiding businesses with quality evidence-based foundation knowledge on how to navigate and retain productivity and staff momentum. We are required to be flexible and respond to industry needs in a timely manner. In 2020 another great success was the launch of our online Aesthetic Conference event delivering a robust educational program of 40 speakers and available for 30 days for businesses and staff. This was the first aesthetics industry event to be available in this format. 475 registrations contributed to the successful of this event. The pendulum is shifting. Once again industry bodies have proven their worth as the reliable source of accurate information and genuine support who have your back. We can confirm that this is APAN’s Mission. APJ
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COSMETIC MEDICINE
PREVENTING AND MANAGING COMPLICATIONS
USING A CANNULA FOR DERMAL FILLER Dr Giulia D’Anna
No matter how experienced you are in the use of cosmetic injections, every practitioner should be aiming to prevent, avoid and manage complications when treating patients. This is particularly the case when using dermal filler. It is difficult to know exactly how many adverse events occur in Australia every year as a result of dermal filler, but we do know that many can take place. The most common complications following dermal filler are swelling and bruising. Whilst these are ‘annoying’, they are certainly not debilitating long term. A much more serious complication is vascular compromise, which can quickly become a medical emergency. So let’s look at what is a vascular compromise, how to avoid it and how to treat it. VASCULAR COMPROMISE OR OCCLUSION Vascular compromise is also known as an arterial or vascular occlusion. This is where there is a changed blood supply to an area of the face as a result of a blockage or reduced blood flow to the skin and tissues. Vascular compromise is usually seen very early on post-treatment, occurring within 24 hours of hyaluronic acid injection. APJ 52
Vascular compromise is caused by injection of the filler onto an artery of the face, preventing arterial or oxygenated blood from flowing onto the tissue it supplies. The patient will usually experience pain which is severe in nature, and the tissues that are becoming hypoxic turn white or blue in colour. Vascular compromise can occur via two main mechanisms: 1. Dermal filler can be injected directly into the blood vessels, blocking the flow of oxygenated blood. As an artery passes through to the terminal vessels, the vessel goes from being large diameter to a much smaller size at its end. This forms a filler ‘plug’ that overwhelms the blood pressure, stopping it from flowing. 2. Compression of the vessel, where a large volume of filler is placed over the vessel, reducing the flow of blood significantly to the tissues.
STAGES OF VASCULAR OCCLUSION (VO) Briefly, there are five stages of vascular occlusion. Every cosmetic injector should be aware of these, as this is a time critical event. The stages of vascular occlusion are:
STAGE 3:
STAGE 1: Pain: Severe pain is usually experienced by the patient at the time of injection. However, if local anaesthetic has been used (either topically, a nerve block, or administered with the product) this symptom can be less reliable. Extraordinary pain is not a feature of soft tissue filler treatments, and if a patient complains of sudden or escalating pain during treatment or in the hours following treatment, this should alert the practitioner to the possibility that a vascular occlusion has occurred and warrants an urgent review. Injectors should be aware that pain distant from the injection area can also be a warning sign of vascular occlusion. Blanching: When the vasculature is affected, the area will often initially look pale, white, or dusky, due to the reduction in blood supply to the affected tissue. This colour will remain after removal of the needle or cannula. The blanching might initially be transient and local, but if unresolved, the pattern of the blanching will become reticulated or irregular, following the same path as the blood supply that has been restricted. This blanching might be masked initially, if adrenaline or certain topical anaesthetics have been used.
Skin Breakdown: Opportunistic infection with anaerobic infection predominates due to a lack of oxygen in the tissues. Antibiotics that target anaerobes needs to be considered as a treatment after Hyalase has been performed. This the final stage that a cosmetic injector can rectify the blood supply and the patient should make a full recovery without surgical intervention.
STAGE 4: Clotting and coagulation: The blood that has pooled with clot and the tissues will try to repair the necrotic tissues. Scar tissue will result due to the impaired vessels and blood flow. Once the vascular occlusion reaches this stage, a surgeon will need to be involved to rectify the skin necrosis, removing necrotic tissue. The patient will also be left with a permanent aesthetic injury. The patient is now in real trouble and will need surgical intervention to debride the tissues to control the tissue healing.
STAGE 2: Dusky, purple discolouration: This is more typical several hours following treatment and is due to the accumulation of deoxygenated blood in the affected tissues. The appearance can mimic that of bruising, but bruises do not blanch, as they are caused by blood leaking into the skin.
STAGE 5: Complete necrosis and tissue loss: Due to the end stage of tissue necrosis and loss, the tissues will be lost. Scar tissue is profound and re-establishing the blood flow will require a multi-disciplinary team.
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can control the cannula depth and direction. It is also important to select a cannula that is 25 gauge or larger. For thicker dermal filler, I will use a 22- or 23-gauge cannula. If using a cannula that is 27 gauge or smaller, the cannula acts just like a needle and offers little safety over a needle. When using a cannula, it is also important for the practitioner to know where the cannula is at all times (depth and direction), move the cannula whilst injecting 100% of the time, and to gain consent from your patient. A cannula is considered an ‘off-label’ delivery of dermal filler, and the patient must consent to the use. I include this in my consenting protocol, and my consent forms when I am consulting with a patient. If you are not using a cannula to deliver dermal filler, you must consider training in this treatment protocol as a medical and dental safety minimum. Finally, every clinic must have Hyalase on-site. It is recommended that you have a minimum of 5 vials available. If you are not sure if the area is bruised or has a Vascular Occlusion (VO), assume it is a VO and Hyalase the area immediately. THE CANNULA DESIGN The word “cannula” comes from Latin, meaning “little reed.” Essentially, a cannula is a flexible tube that can be inserted into a bodily cavity, duct, or vessel to administer or remove fluid. The Cannula has been used for various applications in medicine for more than a hundred years, most frequently for intravenous therapy. Today it is the medical and dental standard for dermal filler treatment.
HOW TO PREVENT VASCULAR COMPLICATIONS As we all know, prevention of a problem is better than dealing with it. Recognising a vascular occlusion and what stage it is at, is also important and requires early intervention. So, let’s look at the possible strategies for prevention. Having a deep understanding of the anatomy is fundamental to cosmetic injecting. Knowing what layer to place dermal filler not only provides a great aesthetic outcome, but also a safer experience for both the practitioner and the patient. This is especially important when injecting near the facial, nasal, temporal and ophthalmic arteries, as well as other areas of the face that are connected to these vessels, such as the nasolabial fold. A detailed history for the patient, including previous facial injuries and trauma is also very important to consider. The technique is the foundation to safer cosmetic injecting. The cosmetic practitioner should use very small aliquots of dermal filler in any area, and also inject using very light pressure. This is important so that the blood pressure is not overcome with the filler material, should it be inadvertently injected intravascularly. Another important point is to constantly move the tip of your needle or cannula. This ensures that the filler is distributed in an area, rather than a bolus being injected into or over the vessel in one place. Finally, the injection method is also really important. A global consensus group determined in 2016, that an important strategy to minimise and avoid complications was to use a cannula, and this should be part of your cosmetic ‘tool kit’. When injecting my patients, and when educating practitioners through Dermal Distinction Training Academy, I use a cannula to deliver dermal filler 99% of the time. The cannula should have a blunt, round end, with a side port. I prefer a cannula no longer than 50mm so that I
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It is designed without a cutting edge, therefore cannulae require a portal before they are introduced into the soft tissue. A pilot or “introducer” needle is used for the initial skin penetration. The pilot needle is inserted in a 30° to 45° angle to the skin and directed in what will be the desired cannula path. The depth of needle insertion should be to the depth that you would like the cannula to pass. If you are aiming at the periosteum, the needle should pass to the periosteum. If you are hoping to pass the cannula to subcutaneous plane, the introducer needle should also pass to the subcutaneous plane. Like choice of filler, the use of needle versus cannula depends on practitioner preference. The Cannula allows for injection of the entire lip using fewer injections, potentially reducing the incidence of local side effects. Many studies have found that blunt-tipped cannulas were associated with significantly less pain, bruising and ecchymosis compared to 17G needles when used for filler injection in the lips. As mentioned already there is a global consensus for the use of the cannula for dermal filler of at least a 25 gauge or larger device, to reduce the incidence of cannulating a blood vessel. This therefore reduces the incidence of vascular occlusion and blindness. Cannula offer some technical advantages over traditional needles. The ability to deliver broad, multidirectional threads and aliquots of filler with fewer needles insertion sites is a distinct benefit. This means one entry point can deliver filler to a very broad and large 360-degree area, causing less pain, swelling and incidence of complications. APJ To learn more about prevention strategies, and to train in the use of a cannula, visit www.dermaldistinction.com
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ADVERTORIAL
SKIN TREATMENT CONSIDERATIONS
PRE AND POST-CANCER TREATMENTS Dr Tiina Meder
20 YEARS AGO, SKINCARE DIDN’T EVEN ENTER THE DISCUSSION WITH SOMEONE WHO HAD CANCER. The right skincare is the least of cancer survivor’s concern, one might think. Being diagnosed with cancer meant many serious concerns, primarily about general prognosis and treatment options. Thankfully, medical science continues to progress and today many types of cancers can be successfully treated. However, it is still a serious illness that contributes to challenging times for both the patient and their loved ones.
their appearance. It is completely normal to be upset that one’s skin looks tired or angry and inflamed. In fact, if the patient still cares for their looks it means that cancer hasn’t taken over their thoughts entirely, which is a good sign. Unfortunately, many women fighting cancer must face their skincare concerns on their own. In the past skincare therapists were often reluctant to give advice on skincare products and skin treatments when their clients were undergoing cancer treatments and even during the first few years of remission. Rather than performing a corrective skin treatment or recommending products, some tended to refer the patient to their doctor. Their caution was perfectly reasonable as there was very little information available concerning the safety of beauty treatments and solutions in combination with cancer therapy. However, today we know a lot about the changes in the skin during and after therapy and about contraindications in the recovery period.
Cancer patients deal with stress, worry, fear and often pain, as well as life-changing symptoms and regularly experience discomfort. Having to undergo chemo and radiotherapy means they may experience a variety of side effects, many of which affect the patient’s lifestyle and appearance.
During any kind of cancer treatment, the patient’s skin becomes more sensitive, its natural protective properties diminish, the skin loses moisture easily and gets thinner and drier. Inflammation, which may develop at this time, is usually related to these changes of the natural protective barrier, rather than as a result of oily skin or hormonal changes. Today, we have a lot more knowledge and understanding on how to support the skin during these changes.
CHEMO AND RADIOTHERAPY SKIN MANIFESTATIONS
Here are a few recommendations on how to support the skin during the changes due to pre and post-cancer treatments:
It is entirely normal to lose or gain a lot of weight during treatment. Hair loss is common and sometimes affects eyebrows and eyelashes. The skin may become dry, sensitive and flaky, reddening and flushing with the lightest touch, while Inflammatory elements may appear both on the face and body. All these side effects mean that the therapy is working on the body and eliminating cancer cells. If the treatment is successful, hair-loss and dry skin seem like a small price to pay for recovery.
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Use the gentlest cleanser you can find, preferably light emulsions. If you’re looking at Meder Beauty Science range, it would be Net-Apax Prebiotic Cleanser.
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After washing the face, spray it generously with thermal water with large contents of magnesium (for example, Avene, or even regular mineral water with magnesium if you can’t get thermal water).
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Try a richer nourishing cream for dry and sensitive skin. Avoid potential irritants, such as retinol, AHAs, essential oils. Instead, look for vitamin E, vegetable oils, hyaluronic acid, glycerine and plant extracts with calming effect (green tea, chamomile, lavender are excellent). From our range pick Arma-Derm Cream or, if dryness is not the biggest concern, Salva-Derm Cream with prebiotic for sensitive skin.
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Calming concentrates and serums would be very useful during this trying period as they help reduce redness, inflammation and soothe the skin and relieve the discomfort. Look for ingredients such as centella asiatica, liquorice, green tea, silver mallow, blueberry, cornflower. If you were to pick one product from Meder range an excellent choice would be Soin-Apax Serum.
None of this means however, that the patient can’t be upset by the changes in
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Moisturising masks would be good, too. Good ones are cream-based, rich in collagen, gel or algae-based, sheet masks are excellent choices too. Avoid acids, however, look for moisturising and calming masks. Strong exfoliants and peels can wait too, the skin is sensitive enough as it is, and often already thin. A good mask recommendation from the Meder range is Hydra-Fill Mask. If cancer treatment includes corticosteroids, some swelling may occur making the face rounder. If this change concerns you, try our face slimming Lipo-Oval Mask.
THINGS TO DO AND THINGS TO AVOID For a cancer patient it is advisable to perform skin treatments with a focus on lymphatic drainage, as this is highly recommended. After achieving remission and ending therapy, your skincare strategy should stay the same for a few months at least (up to a year). Restoring, moisturising and calming the skin are most important at this point. The first few months after the final chemo/radiotherapy is the time to recuperate, and the skin (cliché as it may sound), is a reflection of general health. Many patients, elated by their remission, may seek to pursue more radical treatments, such as cosmetic surgery or some miraculous rejuvenating laser treatments or injectables. Understandable as it is, it would still be better to wait. As the body heals itself, the skin will gradually improve too. It is more advisable to attend to the skin’s needs use moisturising masks, and simple cosmetic applications supported by gentle massages and lymphatic drainage. For best results, this procedure should be delivered consistently by a qualified person in manual lymphatic drainage technique. If remission is stable and the patient is recovering well, some more intense beauty treatments will be possible, but it is advisable to avoid high-intensity treatments of face, neck and body until full recovery. When treating a post-cancer patient with a new technology it is recommended that you first gain the approval of their oncologist by discussing with them the impact the procedure to ensure it is appropriate for the patient’s current condition. Active methods of skin renewal, such as microdermabrasion, local correction of wrinkles and pigmentation treatments, should be perfectly fine. For example, local expression lines correction with botulinum toxin or fillers, pigmentation removal, local facial contouring would be fine. However, more aggressive anti-ageing laser treatments, RF, cryo-lifting, injections of stimulating peptide complexes, growth factors, cell cultures (particularly, fibroblasts), PRP therapy, stimulating mesotherapy cocktails, bio-revitalisation treatments would first require medical approval.
gentle, soothing and nurturing treatments are highly beneficial. In France there is a whole movement of beauty professionals who visit clinics where cancer patients undergo therapy and perform simple enjoyable beauty treatments, such as hand and feet massage, manicure and pedicure and simple facials. It is noted that women who are receiving this care and attention tend to generally feel better and respond more positively to their cancer therapies. In summary, the key focus should be to choose treatment options that improve the quality of life, both during their chemo or radiotherapy as well as post-cancer recovery. Gentle massage, lymphatic drainage procedures are of course highly recommended, supported by hydrating and soothing skin treatments as these will also help the patient feel better. Do not underestimate the benefit and relief you can bring someone and don’t forget to encourage them during their treatment phase as there are many advances now with good success in treating several cancers. Remember that throughout this challenging journey, your care and support are invaluable in offering them new possibilities to feel and look beautiful. APJ MEDER BEAUTY SCIENCE 0466 338 844 admin@mederbeautyscience.com.au mederbeautyscience.com.au
It is also recommended to advise your client to avoid any treatments that induce trauma, pain, and injury as having undergone cancer treatments, their body has been through a lot already. In the active stages of cancer and during chemo and radiotherapy offering them
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PRODUCT INNOVATIONS
THE ANSWER TO A SMOOTH BODY BIO-SLIM CELLULITE TREATMENT CREAM Issada's Bio-Slim Cellulite Treatment Cream is possibly the best anti-cellulite and skin firming cream you will ever buy. Issada’s Bio-slim Cellulite Treatment Cream contains highly targeted actives to tackle the appearance of cellulite by supporting the breakdown of cellulite-causing fat cells and promoting drainage of excess wastes from the body, thus reducing the appearance of cellulite. Ideal for neck and decolletage, as well as areas prone to cellulite and sagging such as knees, thighs, and buttocks. 97 3994 2288 | www.issada.com
FLUIDE CONTOURS EYE AND LIP TREATMENT BY PHYTS Keeping the skin barrier of the delicate eye contour area moisturised and protected is the best way to keep it youthful-looking. FLUIDE CONTOURS from Phyts is a delicate treatment cream combining an amazing synergy of active botanicals providing the perfect anti-wrinkle solution for the eyes and the lips. Fluide Contours provides sustained nourishment and hydration all day long, keeping wrinkles at bay. Formulated with potassium to reduce signs of puffiness under the eyes, as well as organic active ingredients including Ylang Ylang, Ho Wood, Lavender and Chamomile essential oils, Vitamin E, wheat germ and hazelnut nourishing oils to protect, tone and fight the signs of ageing. 1300 143 537 | orders@phyts.com.au
HARNESSING THE BODY’S NATURAL REJUVENATION POWERS NeoGenesis’ hero product, Recovery, harnesses the body’s natural regenerative powers through patented S²RM® technology. This powerhouse serum supports the skin by delivering the full cascade of molecules that these stem cells release to the skin’s barrier, as well as to the deeper dermal layers of the skin to help reduce inflammation, irritation, and downtime post-treatment. info@neogenesis.com | www.neogenesis.com
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RESTORIX OPTIMISED CELL FUNCTION FOR AN OPTIMAL YOU RestoriX is an amazing nutraceutical (containing resveratrol, quercetin and nicotinamide), which is a precursor to NAD+, also known as the molecule of youth. NAD+ plays a key role in cellular energy production and has the ability to activate the sirtuin gene known to combat ageing. RestoriX supports energy generation for a more optimal you. Why not introduce this amazing product to your clients today? orders@ixsyrinx.com | www.ixsyrinx.com
NEW ADDITION TO DR ANNE-MARIE’S DERMAL CARE Three new Serums have been added to the Dr Anne-Marie’s Dermal Care existing range of incredible and potent skincare. The Serums feature major vitamins that are required to protect, nourish and to reduce the visible signs of ageing. Each serum includes powerful native Australian organic actives that effectively work on the skin to destroy free radicals, whilst also providing long-lasting nourishment to fortify and diminishing the signs of ageing. Through continuous use these Vitamin Serums will enhance and brighten the skin’s appearance. This amazing collection consists of: •
Vitamin A & Squalene with Sandalwood Seed Oil
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Vitamin B & Hyaluronic Acid with Tasmanian Pepper Leaf
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Vitamin C & Kakadu Plum with Davidson’s Plum.
These serums are part of a complete nature and organic skincare range that is gentle yet effective. 0403 846 622 | www.dramdermalcare.com.au
ROCCOCO LAUNCHES RUBY CRYSTAL CLEANSER Introducing our 7-in-1 crème de la crème Roccoco Ruby Crystal Cleanser. Our ruby cleanser contains real rubies, which are known esoterically to bring healing and enhance energy. Beta-glucan and Avenanthramides derived from oats, rapidly suppress inflammation, histamine and itching in the skin. Passionfruit sourced deep from the heart of the Amazon rain forest, possesses unique healing qualities. Contact Roccoco Botanicals to access this amazing product-line and discover the power of precious gems. 07 3807 1429 | www.roccoco.com
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STAR PERFORMER
THE POWER
OF GREENS
As professional skin practitioners it is important to consider a holistic approach when treating the skin in order to be able to achieve long lasting results. Both the skin and gut are uniquely related in their function with research showing a bidirectional role between these two organs and numerous studies linking gut health to skin homeostasis. Both organs are densely vascularised and innervated with important neuroendocrine and immune functioning roles with dysbiosis of the gut microbiome appearing to participate in the pathophysiology of many inflammatory disorders. Stress, a sedentary lifestyle and a poor diet low in plant foods and high in ultraprocessed foods, low in fibre, high in salt, sugar, saturated fat and additives such as emulsifiers (e.g., polysorbate 80, carrageenan gum and fillers such as maltodextrin) can cause alterations in gut motility and gut microbiota composition. Evenness and diversity of microbial species is important for homeostasis therefore disruption can lead to increased intestinal permeability and increased exposure to endotoxins. Endotoxins or lipopolysaccharides are biologically active substances present in the outer membrane of gram-negative bacteria. Altered gut microbiota and increased endotoxins promote the release of substance P, both in the gut and the skin thereby increasing inflammation and
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oxidative stress. Inflammatory mediators are elevated, and insulin sensitivity is decreased which can, over time, contribute to insulin resistance. The skin and the gut are the primary interfaces with the external environment, it is therefore essential to support the skin both topically and internally to maintain physiological homeostasis. Therefore, when looking at clinically treating any inflammatory and problematic skin condition such as acne, rosacea, eczema and even impaired skin barrier function, we need to look at how we can support gut health. Vita-sol Purity Greens is a certified organic nutraceutical blend designed to support the gut, liver and skin. Our expertly crafted nutrient dense wholefood contains 32 plant-based ingredients to support digestion, gut health, liver detoxification, effective elimination and skin health. Our Purity powder contains pre and post-biotics, sprouted ingredients, milk thistle, choline, beta-carotene, zinc, B vitamins, Vitamin C and is the perfect ingestible addition to any skincare regime. Each Vita-sol product is formulated to support specific skin conditions, our products are easy to take and come with complimentary in-depth training and online clinical support. If you would like to find out more about the Vita-sol range or discuss trading terms and clinic eligibility. APJ admin@vita-sol.com www.vita-sol.com @vitasolptyltd
Good skin starts from within...
Targeted multi active nutraceuticals developed from organic wholefoods for gut, liver and skin support, organic herbal tisanes and 100% pure marine collagen peptides. We source the highest quality ingredients across the globe to ensure purity and efficacy without the use of fillers, emulsifiers, artificial colours or flavours. Online clinical support and training led by nutritional medicine practitioner and skin expert Fiona Tuck. Proudly Australian.
The professional's choice. Visit: vita-sol.com to view stockist eligibility and application criteria. APJ 61
NUTRITIONAL SCIENCE
OLIVE LEAF EXTRACT FOR
Immunity, Cardiovascular Health, Skin & Brain Function
Since the onset of COVID-19 I have noticed that Olive Leaf Extract is frequently featured as a go-to remedy to support the immune system. Indeed, its amazing properties are quite extraordinary. Not surprisingly, olive leaves have been used therapeutically in the human diet as an extract, herbal tea and powder for decades. This is because olive leaf contains many potentially bioactive compounds that have antioxidant, anti-hypertensive, antiinflammatory and hypo-glycaemic properties — similar to the wellknown olive oil benefits. More and more studies are proving that olive leaf extract is a powerful medicinal tool, with benefits including immune system support, increased energy and promoting healthy blood pressure. Because of the promising scientific studies indicating its medicinal potential, olive leaf continues to gain recognition for its various health benefits. A BRIEF LOOK AT ITS HISTORY Olive leaf extract comes from the leaves of the olive tree, called Olea europaea. The olive tree is part of the Oleaceae family, which also includes species such as lilacs, jasmine, forsythia and the true ash trees. It’s an evergreen tea or shrub that is native to Asia, Africa and the Mediterranean. Researchers believe that the olive tree had its origin approximately 6,000–7,000 years ago in the region corresponding to ancient Persia and Mesopotamia. Typically, a short tree that rarely exceeds 26 to 49 feet in height, the olive tree flowers are small, white and feathery, and the leaves are a silver-green colour. The olives are harvested in the green-topurple stage and the seed of the olive is commonly referred to as the pit, and in Britain, it’s called a stone.
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In the early 1800s, crushed olive leaves were used in drinks to lower fevers, and a few decades later, they were used in tea as a treatment for malaria. In Moroccan medicine, olive leaf is infused to stabilise blood sugar and control diabetes. These medicinal benefits of olive leaf extract come from the plant’s powerful compounds. THERAPEUTIC CONSTITUENTS One bioactive compound present in olive leaves is the secoiridoid oleuropein, which can constitute up to 6–9 per cent of dry matter in the leaves. Other bioactive components include flavonoids and triterpenes. These are plant metabolites that provide health benefits through cell signalling pathways and antioxidant effects. Oleuropein, one of the primary compounds in olive leaf, has attracted attention since the early 1900s because of its antiviral, antibacterial and antifungal properties. Studies confirm that oleuropein, which is a polyphenol, is a potent antioxidant that helps to lower blood pressure naturally and prevent cardiovascular disease. Oleuropein also displayed anti-cancer properties with studies confirming evidence of tumour regression in animal and even disappearing. STUDIES CONFIRM SEVERAL HEALTH BENEFITS 1. Lowers Blood Pressure A 2011 study evaluated the effectiveness of olive leaf extract in comparison to Captopril, a medication that is given to patients with hypertension or high blood pressure. Five hundred milligrams of olive leaf extract, taken twice daily for eight weeks, significantly reduced systolic and diastolic blood pressure. While both olive leaf extracts and Captopril were able to prevent
high blood pressure levels, the olive leaf treatment also resulted in a reduction of triglyceride levels (reducing bad cholesterol); plus, unlike Captopril there were no side effects recording with the use of olive leaf extract. Captopril side effects may include dizziness, loss of taste and dry cough. 2. Improves Cardiovascular Health Olive leaves have been used as an herbal tonic to support cardiovascular function for thousands of years. High doses of olive leaf extract have been shown to help reduce elevated LDLcholesterol levels and assist in the maintenance of normal blood pressure. Oleuropein, the main glycoside present in olive leaf, and hydroxytyrosol, the principal product of oleuropein that is present in olives and olive leaf extract, have both been linked to reduction of coronary heart disease and certain cancers. A study conduction at the School of Biomedical Sciences study done at the School of Biomedical Sciences in Australia examined rats that were fed a high fat and high carbohydrate diet for 16 weeks. The rats that were not treated developed signs of elevated abdominal and hepatic fat deposition, collagen deposition in heart and liver, cardiac stiffness and oxidative stress markers.
the growth of cells associated with breast cancer, urinary bladder cancer and brain cancer. 5. Improves Brain Function Another olive leaf benefit is its positive effects on brain function. Studies show that oleuropein, one of the main components in olive leaf, reduces the symptoms or occurrence of age-related disorders, such as dementia and Alzheimer’s disease. Research suggests that there is a connection between free radicals and Alzheimer’s. Because olive leaf is an antioxidant, it helps to combat the damage caused by free radicals and protects the brain from memory loss. Using olive leaf infusions or extracts is a safe and effective way to treat Alzheimer’s disease naturally. An in vivo study published in Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity found that oleuropein is able to induce autophagy, achieving a decrease of aggregated proteins and a reduction of cognitive impairment. Basically, this means that because of this compound, olive leaf extract promotes the orderly degradation and recycling of our cellular components.
The rats that were treated with olive leaf extracts had improved or normalized cardiovascular, hepatic (liver function) and metabolic signs. This study suggests that olive leaf extracts may be able to reverse cardiovascular stress and chronic, disease-causing inflammation in humans. 3. Fights Diabetes One study conducted in Greece measured the effects of olive leaf extracts on the formation of advanced glycation end products (known as AGEs), which are substances that can be a factor in the development of diabetes and many other chronic diseases. Inhibiting AGE formation is a preventive and therapeutic target for patients with diabetes, and a 2013 study found that olive leaf extract did just that, working to improve diabetes symptoms naturally. Olive leaf extracts have hypoglycemic effects, meaning they reduce blood sugar levels in the body. The olive leaf also controls blood glucose levels in the body. The polyphenols in olive leaf play a vital role in delaying the production of sugar, which causes inflammatory diseases like diabetes. A 2017 review published in Molecules found evidence to confirm the interactions and combined benefits of olive polyphenols that are found in olive leaf extracts. These polyphenols were able to induce an improvement in blood glucose in prediabetes. There’s also some studies to suggest that olive leaf may aid in weight loss by regulating the expression of certain genes that role a role in weight gain. But to be sure about olive leaf for weight loss, more research is needed. 4. May Reduce the Risk of Cancer Olive leaves may play an important role in fighting cancer because of their ability to stop the angiogenic process, which stimulates the growth of tumors. The compound oleuropein has an antioxidant and anti-angiogenic effect by inhibiting the reproduction and migration of advanced tumor cells. A 2009 study conducted in Greece showed, for the first time, that olive leaf extracts have strong antioxidant potency and inhibit cancer and endothelial cell reproduction. Olive leaf extracts slowed
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And a 2017 study found that olive leaf extract works as an antimicrobial agent that controls foodborne pathogens, including E. coli and salmonella. 8. Boosts Immune Function The olive leaf has antiviral properties, giving it the ability to fight or prevent the common cold, as well as treat dangerous viruses. Research shows that olive leaf extracts effectively fight against a number of disease-causing microbes, including some of the viruses that cause influenza and other respiratory infections. The powerful compounds found in olive leaves destroy invading organisms and don’t allow viruses to replicate and cause an infection. In fact, the olive leaf is so beneficial to our health that treatment with olive leaf extracts reversed many HIV-1 infectionassociated changes in a study done at the New York University School of Medicine. And a 2019 study found that when olive leaf extract was given to high school athletes for nine weeks during their competitive season, there was a significant 28 percent reduction in sick days taken by those supplementing with olive leaf. 9. Protects the Skin Olive leaf has the power to reverse years of damage to your skin and the signs of ageing. Because of olive leaf’s antioxidant properties, it helps to prevent certain types of cell damage, especially those caused by oxidation. Foods and herbs that contain antioxidants are great tools for the health of your skin and cells.
6. Treats Arthritis Arthritis is a joint disease that causes swelling and pain in the joints. The key word here is swelling — which means inflammation. Because the olive leaf is an anti-inflammatory agent, it works as a natural arthritis remedy. A 2012 study found that olive leaf extracts significantly reduced paw swelling in rats with arthritis; this is because the extracts were able to reduce the inflammation that was present in the joints. Osteoarthritis is the most common type of arthritis. In Australia, one-in-five adults suffer from osteoarthritis. This occurs when the cartilage between the bones and the joint wears down, which allows the bones to rub together rather than giving them the protection and cushion of cartilage. Studies have shown that olive leaf extracts cuts down on the chronic pain that is associated with osteoarthritis, and it reduces the production of cytokines and enzymes that are markers for the inflammatory process. 7. Kills Bacteria and Fungi An important olive leaf benefit is its ability to fight off infections, including candida infections, meningitis, pneumonia, chronic fatigue, hepatitis B, malaria, gonorrhea, shingles and tuberculosis. It also naturally treats ear, dental and urinary tract infections. A study done in 2003 proved that olive leave extracts have an antimicrobial effect against bacteria and fungi. This suggests that olive leaf works as a natural antibiotic, due to it’s ability to fight some bacterial infections. In the study, the olive leaf extracts killed almost all bacteria tested, including dermatophytes (causing infections on the skin, hair and nails), candida albicans (an agent of oral and genital infections) and Escherichia coli cells (bacteria found in the lower intestine).
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The Division of Biochemical Pharmacology in Japan found that olive leaf extract, when given to mice with UV radiation damage, decreased skin thickness and skin elasticity, which are signs of skin damage. The treatment also inhibited skin carcinogenesis and tumour growth. Some more olive leaf benefits may include: • more energy •
toothache relief
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diminished food cravings
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joint pain relief
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heartbeat regulation
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improved wound healing
Uses The easiest way to receive olive leaf benefits is to purchase an extract, which can be found in your local health store or online. Make sure to buy an organic product to assure that it doesn’t include pesticides. Olive leaf extracts are sometimes used in skin creams and other cosmetics, so you can also try adding 5 to 10 drops of olive leaf extract to your own face wash or lotion to take advantage of the olive leaf benefits for skin. How long does it take for olive leaf extract to work? The results will vary depending on your health goals, but studies using olive leaf show that it’s effective within 8 weeks. Here are some simple ways to use olive leaf extract at home: • Olive leaf extract for skin care: Because of its anti-ageing and bacteria-fighting capabilities, you can use olive leaf extract to make a skin-clearing face wash.Try adding 5–10 drops of olive leaf extract to your body butter balm or cream. .
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Olive leaf extract for oral health: Olive leaf has strong antibacterial properties, making it great for fighting infections in your mouth too. Try adding five drops of olive leaf extract to remineralise your toothpaste.
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Olive leaf capsules: Olive leaf extract is also available in capsule and soft gel forms. Capsules can be taken to support immune function and provide powerful antioxidants. Capsules can also be taken to promote cardiovascular health. The standard olive leaf extract dose ranges from 500-1,000 milligrams daily. It’s best to divide your daily dosage into 2-3 smaller doses and take it with a meal or snack.
•
Olive leaf tea for immune support: Olive leaf tea is available in your local health food store and online. You can drink olive leaf tea daily to boost immune function and reduce inflammation. If you have access to an olive tree, then you can use the leaves to make your own tea. Start by washing the leaves thoroughly, then bake them at low temperature until they are dry. Then crush the dry leaves and remove the stalks. Steep one tablespoon of the dried olive leaves in hot water for 10 minutes; drink a cup (or more) a day to get all of these amazing olive leaf benefits. If the taste it too bitter for you, add some organic honey or lemon.
Risks, Side Effects and Interactions What are the side effects of olive leaf extract? When olive leaf is used in appropriate amounts, it is generally safe. However, on occasion, olive leaf extract may cause dizziness in people who have low blood pressure because it can lower it even further. Olive leaf may also cause stomach irritations, especially if the dose is too high or the olive leaf tea is too strong. If that happens, dilute the extract with a carrier oil like coconut oil, or add extra water to the tea. Some other side effects may include diarrhea, acid reflux, headache, stomach pain and heartburn.
If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, do not take olive leaf extract unless it is under the guidance of your physician. There is not enough research to prove that it is safe under these circumstances. Do not take olive leaf with blood pressure medications since it lowers blood pressure. Olive leaf extract demonstrates hypoglycaemic and antidiabetic properties, so if you are on diabetic medication, start with small doses under the guidance of your healthcare professional to ensure that you will not have a reaction. With any medical conditions is it always advisable to speak to your physician beforehand, especially if you have diabetes and are trying olive leaf for the first time. Olive leaf extract may increase the effect of blood thinners, such as Warfarin. This is because olive leaf may prevent blood platelets from sticking together. If you are taking Warfarin or other blood thinners, check with your physician before taking olive leaf extract. Also, if you are undergoing chemotherapy treatment, speak to your healthcare professional before using olive leaf, as it may interfere with some chemotherapy drugs. IN SUMMARY Olive leaf has been used medicinally since ancient times.Today, olive leaf extract, tinctures, capsules and teas are therapeutically and medicinally used by people around the world. In summary olive leaf extract is commonly used to reduce inflammation, boost immune function, fight infections and promote cardiovascular health. It can also be used topically to fight skin issues and orally to boost oral health. When it comes to olive leaf dosage, it ranges from 500–1,000 milligrams daily. It is generally safe to take olive leaf extract everyday under the guidance of your healthcare professional.
APJ
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STAR PERFORMER
FACE SOLUTIONS
Changing Fortunes Danielle Kinkade’s decision to move her Gold Coast clinic, Face Solutions, just 300 metres ‘down the road’ was the catalyst for a major change in fortunes for both Danielle and her clinic.
WHAT DOES FACE SOLUTIONS LOOK LIKE AND WHAT DOES IT OFFER CLIENTS TODAY?
The move, from a small clinic with just two treatment rooms to new premises almost double in size may only have been a very short distance, but it almost instantly transformed Face Solution’s client base and treatment offering.
The clinic now has a clean and crisp clinical vibe, but at the same time, it’s been decorated in a French Provincial style that provides our clients with a warm and inviting ambience, where they can relax, while also experiencing leading treatment outcomes.
Danielle recalls that she had been extremely nervous about making the move due to concerns about the increased costs, but was almost instantly rewarded for taking the risk with more clients willing to invest in both her treatments and products. This dramatic change in clientele gave her the impetus she needed to make equally dramatic changes to her clinic and her plans for the future. So, Danielle took time out from her busy schedule, to assess the clinic’s direction and her career. We caught up with Danielle to explore her journey. WHEN AND HOW DID YOU BEGIN YOUR CAREER IN THE AESTHETICS INDUSTRY? I enrolled in a beauty therapy course straight after finishing high school as I always knew it was something that I wanted to do. After finishing the course, I began working in a local resort. From there I moved on to work in a salon in Brisbane before coming back and starting work at Face Solutions. After working at the clinic for four years, in 2013, I decided to purchase it from the previous owner.
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From when I purchased Face Solutions, we have stepped up the overall décor, as well as the services we provide, so it is now more luxurious than the original clinic.
The biggest difference between the old and new clinic really is the treatment offering. When I first took over the clinic, we only offered traditional beauty services like ‘feel good’ facials and waxing. Today we offer results-oriented treatments such as HIFU, Plasma Fibroblast, dermal needling, microdermabrasion, hydrodermabrasian and Venus Viva skin resurfacing. These services better meet the demands of today’s consumer who is seeking to invest in treatments that can deliver visible changes to their skin. We still offer some everyday beauty treatments like mini facials, waxing and pedicures, but we don’t really promote them. WHAT IS THE LATEST ADDITION TO YOUR TREATMENT MENU AND WHY DID YOU CHOOSE TO INTRODUCE IT? I purchased the Venus Viva in December as I was impressed by the device as soon as I saw it. I love the fact that the Viva, which really is small enough to fit on almost any surface, can effectively treat so many common skin problems, such as wrinkles, acne scars, rosacea, enlarged pores and pigmentation. I also love the fact that I can easily customise the settings to achieve the best possible results for all my clients’ individual needs. This is so important when you are targeting a high level of result. However, what really appealed and impressed me with the Viva was the number of pins on the head of its nano-fractional radio frequency applicator. The Viva applicator has a lot more pins that are closer together than what I had seen on the applicators on other resurfacing devices. This makes a big difference to achieve a higher level of treatment outcome. I therefore almost immediately decided to purchase the Viva, even though it was quite a bit more expensive than other brands. I know with this device I could deliver a better result to my clients, and I was confident that they would not mind paying a little extra to achieve a better treatment outcome. APJ
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WELLNESS
HOW TO KEEP THE LIMBIC SYSTEM AND EMOTIONS IN ORDER Tina Viney
In our present time in history when stress levels are in overdrive, of all the systems of the body, the Limbic System is gaining incredible attention as the one body system we need to understand and optimise it function. Almost daily, new data is revealing not just how the limbic system works, but also simple activities that can substantially support it and in a short time, bring our bodies into a greater state of calm and repair from the impacts of its various stressors. Although it’s only a small part of the brain in terms of volume, the limbic system has some of the most basic, life-sustaining and meaningful roles of all brain structure. This article will aim to provide you with new updates on the limbic system and how to activate it. The word limbic comes from the Latin word limbus, meaning “border.” That’s because the limbic system forms a curved border around the subcortical parts of the brain called the cerebral cortex and the diencephalon. While the entire central nervous system helps to control our emotions, it is the specific activities in the limbic system and the autonomic nervous system that are especially influential over our emotional health. The entire limbic system - including sub-parts like the hippocampus, hypothalamus and amygdala - helps control numerous emotional, voluntary, endocrine and visceral responses to our environments that we all experience daily. Of all the areas of the brain, the limbic system is said to be one of the oldest and most primitive, having formed many hundreds of thousands of years ago. In fact, similar systems are also found in most other animals, even reptiles. In the past, the limbic system was sometimes even referred to as the “paleomammalian brain.” Although the limbic system works with other areas of the brain in complex ways, and therefore has far more than just one role, the word that best describes what the limbic system controls would be emotions. Second, a part of the limbic system called the hippocampus helps us form and retain memories, which is very important for learning and development. At all stages of our life, the limbic system and hippocampus also help govern emotional behaviours. While it’s an oversimplification
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to say that someone’s emotions are only determined by limbic functions, it’s clear that this system plays a huge part in helping us do things like remember past events that were both pleasant and traumatic, perceive threats from our surroundings, make choices based on our experiences, control movements based on past learning, form sensory preferences/likes/dislikes, and much more. THE STRUCTURE AND FUNCTION OF THE LIMBIC SYSTEM AND THE HIPPOCAMPUS The limbic system sits atop the brain stem, which is believed to be one of the first parts of the brain to develop, react to stimuli and the most basic in terms of sustaining life. It’s located on both sides of the thalamus and underneath the cerebrum. There’s not a total consensus among neuroscientists about which structures of the brain are technically part of the limbic system, considering it’s very hard to neatly classify cortical areas given how much neural overlap there is. That being said, most consider the limbic system to be made up of cortical regions (structures), including: •
Hippocampus: generally associated with memory and focus, but also helps with motor control (often learned through trial and error)
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Amygdala: tied to fear and anxious emotions
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Hypothalamus: primarily responsible for regulating hormones and maintaining homeostasis
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Septal Nuclei: tied to pleasure and learning through reward and/or reinforcement
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Cingulate Cortex: involved in many aspects of memory and emotion
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Parahippocampal Gyrus: also helps with memory
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Mammillary Bodies: connected to the amygdala and hippocampus
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Fornix: connects other parts of the brain, including hippocampus and mammillary bodies.
The limbic system is one hard-working region of the brain, as you can tell. Some specific limbic system functions include: •
Controlling emotions like anger and fear
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Regulating eating, hunger and thirst
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Responding to pain and pleasure
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Controlling functioning of the autonomic nervous system, including things like pulse, blood pressure, breathing and arousal
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Sensing sexual satisfaction
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Controlling aggressive or violent behaviour
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Responding to sensory information, especially sense of smell.
The hippocampus is part of the entire limbic system, but it helps to understand how it contributes to memory and learning. Functions of the hippocampus include: •
Forming short-term and long-term memories through consolidating information
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Learning new skills from reward, punishment, reinforcement and failure
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Recognition of what’s familiar versus new
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Navigation or sense of direction
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Spatial memory
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Involved in olfaction (smelling) and tying together smells with specific memories
LIMBIC SYSTEM DISORDERS Because sub-parts of the limbic system ultimately regulate important aspects of our conscious and unconscious patterns, including our emotions, perceptions, relationships, behaviours and motor control, it’s easy to see why damage to this region can cause serious problems. Disorders or behaviours that are related to limbic system dysfunction, or sometimes limbic system damage due to things like traumatic injuries or ageing, include: •
Disinhibited behaviour: This means someone doesn’t consider the risk of behaviours and ignores social conventions/rules.
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Increased anger and violence: This is commonly tied to amygdala damage.
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Hyperarousal: Amygdala damage, or damage to parts of the brain connected to the amygdala, can cause increased fear and anxiety. Anxiety disorders are sometimes treated with drugs that target areas of the amygdala to decrease fear-based emotions.
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Hypoarousal: This can cause low energy or lack of drive and motivation.
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Hyperorality/Kluver-Bucy Syndrome: This is characterised by amygdala damage that can lead to increased drive for pleasure, hypersexuality, disinhibited behaviour and insertion of inappropriate objects in the mouth.
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Appetite dysregulation: Destructive behaviours tied to hyperorality, or thalamus dysfunction can include overeating, binge eating or emotional eating.
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Trouble forming memories: Hippocampal damage can include short-term or long-term memory loss. Learning is often greatly impacted by hippocampal damage since it depends on memory. Someone with the condition anterograde amnesia loses the ability to form and retain new memories. Interestingly, sometimes someone can hold on to older/long-term memories
but lose the ability to form new short-term memories. •
Cognitive disorders, such as Alzheimer’s disease: Research shows that people with Alzheimer’s and memory loss usually have experienced damage to the hippocampus. This causes not only memory loss, but also disorientation and changes in moods. Some of the ways that the hippocampus can become damaged include free radical damage/oxidative stress, oxygen starvation (hypoxia), strokes, seizures or epilepsy.
EMOTIONAL AND PSYCHOLOGICAL LINKS TO THE LIMBIC SYSTEM As you’ve probably gathered, the limbic system plays a powerful role in creating different emotions and feelings. In fact, some even call it “the emotional switchboard of the brain.” One important way that the limbic system impacts emotional health is through carrying sensory input from the environment to the hypothalamus and then from the hypothalamus to other parts of the body. The hypothalamus acts like the “regulator” of hormone control, helps the body maintain homeostasis and send signals to the pituitary/thyroid/adrenal glands. It receives information from many body parts, including the heart, vagus nerve, gut, digestive system and the skin. Because of the hypothalamus’s functions, the limbic system is directly in control of your “stress response” and these key functions: •
Heart rate
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Blood pressure
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Breathing
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Memory
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Stress levels
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Hormone balance
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Moods
Interactions between the hypothalamus and the rest of the limbic system are responsible for controlling the autonomic nervous system, including the sympathetic nervous system (SNS) and parasympathetic nervous system (PNS). In other words, the SNS and PNS control our “fight or flight” response. Disorders like generalised anxiety, social anxiety, phobias, bipolar disorder, and even addictions and depression are tied to hyperarousal, high amounts of anxiety/fear and dysfunctions of the fight-flightresponse. Anxiety and high amounts of stress (including increased cortisol levels) also have an impact on inflammation levels, digestion and gut health, cardiovascular functions, your immune system, and the reproductive system, these sometimes contributing to disorders like diabetes, insomnia, high blood pressure, higher susceptibility to infections and infertility. ESSENTIAL OILS TO SUPPORT THE LIMBIC SYSTEM The limbic system gathers information from the environment through sensory information. As you’ve experienced firsthand many times, your senses can alter your emotional state rapidly. For example, a pleasurable meal can make you feel comforted, and very loud noises can make you feel anxious. Ever wonder why certain smells conjure up memories and even physical feelings so vividly? Our sense of smell is unique compared to our other senses (such as taste, sight and hearing) because it bypasses parts of the brain that other types of sensory information often cannot. Because of this, smells can often cause immediate and strong emotional reactions based on memories. Smells can bring us back to past events within milliseconds, making us feel a
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certain way based on past events, whether we realise why we’re suddenly feeling that way or not.
in the lungs that take up the oils and then circulate them throughout the body, including to the brain.
Essential oils for example, can have dramatic effects on limbic function and how you feel. This is true because the strong fragrances they hold, which are found inside volatile molecules that can make their way into your bloodstream, travel directly through the blood/brain barrier very quickly.
Using a diffuser can help you experience the benefits of essential oils, or you can directly inhale them from the bottle or a cotton swab. You can diffuse lavender to reduce stress, eucalyptus to cleanse the air, wild orange to improve your overall mood, frankincense reduces feelings of anxiety and stimulate the immune system and peppermint essential oil to improve focus and energy.
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As you’ll recall, the hippocampus is involved in olfaction (smelling). How so exactly? Aromatic molecules contained within essential oils interact with sensors in your nasal cavity, lungs, pores and more. Research shows that the olfactory bulb projects information into the ventral part of the hippocampus, and the hippocampus sends axons to the main olfactory bulb, (including the anterior olfactory nucleus and the primary olfactory cortex). This is how memories and smells become tied together.
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Once engaged, sensors emit strong emotional signals based on smells starting from your limbic system (hippocampus) and spreading throughout the rest of your body to places like your heart and digestive tract.
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Because essential oils can impact memory and overall support healthy limbic system functions, much new scientific evidence shows that inhaling essential oils may be one of the fastest ways to create physiological or psychological benefits. These include decreasing anxiety, anger or even fatigue.
SIMPLE STRATEGIES TO KEEP THE LIMBIC SYSTEM HEALTHY In order to maintain homeostasis and feel your best, the goal is to balance activities of the parasympathetic and sympathetic nervous systems. Too much activation of one can cause high amounts of anxiety, but too much of the other, can cause low motivation and symptoms like fatigue. Here are some ways to help keep your limbic system functioning smoothly. •
Use Soothing or Uplifting Essential Oils: When used in aromatherapy (inhaled), there is evidence that essential oils are absorbed into the bloodstream and then trigger the hippocampus. This is mostly due to the amount of blood vessels
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•
Practice Deep Breathing: Deep breathing exercises coupled with intentional relaxation of muscles engages the circuitry of the PNS and strengthens it for future use. Relaxing/deep breathing also quiets the fight-or-flight SNS, since relaxed muscles send feedback to the alarm centres in the brain that there are no threats present. A simple way to practice deep breathing is to lay on your back and try taking slow, steady breaths from your diaphragm (near your belly, as opposed to from your chest). You can also try inhaling for four seconds, holding your breath for seven seconds and exhaling slowly for eight seconds, repeating this for five to 10 minutes.
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Visualisations or Guided Imagery: Visual stimuli have important influences on emotional health, socialisation and wellbeing. They can even be used to reduce anxiety disorders or symptoms of autism. To practice, recall in detail a place that makes you feel happy and relaxed (a vacation, being in nature or time spent with family, for example). Imagine or feel that the experience is entering deeply into your mind and body, keeping your muscles relaxed and absorbing positive emotions, sensations and thoughts of the experience.
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Exercise: Exercise helps control stress, balance hormones (such as cortisol), raise immune function and lower inflammation. One of the ways it does this is by training your autonomic nervous system/fight-flight-response to return to normal more quickly following periods of stress/arousal.
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Make a habit of being mindful, still and silent: You can try things guided meditation or regular healing prayer to achieve this. These can help you cultivate gratitude, reduce stress,
make you feel more connected to others, become more mindful/aware of good things in your life, and increase feelings of compassion, kindness and well-being. INTERESTING FACTS AND HISTORY OF THE LIMBIC SYSTEM The functions that different regions of the brain are responsible for have been debated since the time of Aristotle thousands of years ago. Neuroscience has come a long way since then, especially recently thanks to imaging studies like MRIs, and it’s now widely accepted that the prefrontal cortex, amygdala, anterior cingulate cortex, hippocampus and insula participate to control the majority of human emotional processes. Today, teaching people who struggle with anxiety or depression to intentionally learn to calm their autonomic nervous systems is a major focus in psychology, therapy and neuroscience research. As these practices are simple to perform, they can easily be incorporated and an aesthetic clinical setting where you can implement them with your client in the privacy of the treatment room. In recent decades, scientists have come to understand that our brains are always adapting to our environments throughout our entire life spans. The brain’s capacity to learn — and change itself depending on its environment, this is known as neuroplasticity, which when used to our advantage helps us become happier in addition to being more knowledgeable. The limbic system is responsible for governing “avoidance” versus “approach” behaviours, in other words, feelings of pleasure versus anxiety/pain. Approach and avoidance are exactly what help keep us alive and ensure survival. That’s why the limbic system is said to be so “primitive” and is found in all types of species. Because of how quickly the limbic system works, your brain can register something as being dangerous (such as a car speeding by you) and trigger you to move out of the way/avoid it BEFORE you even consciously know what happened or have time to think it over.
When you come across something threatening, your hippocampus immediately compares the image to its stored list of dangers. The hippocampus then communicates to your amygdala by sending high-priority alerts (which is why the amygdala is often called your “alarm bell”) that fast-tracks the actions of your fight-or-flight/ hormonal systems. The brain typically detects negative information faster than positive information, in order to prioritise ensuring survival. This is often called our “negativity bias” and explains why it’s often easier to remember bad events more easily than positive ones. Because of this tendency, it can be easy for some people to become overly anxious or depressed if they don’t train themselves to focus on the good in their lives or practice calming activities and gratitude. IN SUMMARY •
The limbic system is a connection of many brain structures that help control emotions, in addition to memory, learning, motivation, and bodily functions like appetite and sex drive.
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Sub-parts of the limbic system include the hippocampus, amygdala and hypothalamus.
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One of the most notable areas that essential oils impact is your emotions tied to memories, thanks to activation of your limbic system/hippocampus. Essential oils that can help improve your mood, energy and focus include peppermint, lavender, orange and frankincense.
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To keep your limbic system healthy, use soothing or uplifting essential oils, practice deep breathing, visualisations,exercise and try things like guided meditation and healing prayer to make a habit of being mindful, still and silent. APJ
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PERSONAL DEVELOPMENT
WINNING HABITS THAT CAN HELP TRANSFORM AND IMPROVE YOUR LIFE
JOURNALING Tina Viney
I AM A WRITER, SO THE WRITTEN WORD IS SOMETHING THAT I ENJOY AND HAVE AN AFFINITY TO. Despite this fact, journaling my thoughts has been something I have only developed in recent years. I am a strong believer that a good life is always based on good habits that allow you to repeat behaviour that will support you in how you want your life to manifest. Surprisingly enough, a good life first and foremost starts with a good attitude. So, on what thoughts will you anchor your today? What thoughts will allow you to start with a positive expectation that you will support you in making the most of whatever life throws at you? Good habits are important because they allow you to gain a level of control over your life. So how can developing a habit of journaling help you? Each day, over one million articles will feature, promoting how certain habits will make you successful. And while these all have good intentions for habits to truly elevate you to a better life, they need to be linked to transforming you at a fundamentally deeper level. What do I mean by that? Let’s imagine that you want to establish some good habits to lose weight. You identify a routine that includes a dietary plan and some exercise that will help you achieve your goal. You ultimately reach your weight target, and life continues with a great sense of contentment. However, life being life, will invariably expose you to ongoing pressures. Progressively your disciplined eating habits start to deteriorate and the weight returns. So, what is the missing element? THE KEY TO PERSONAL TRANSFORMATION I am a strong believer that for good habits to remain, the brain and the heart must work in synergy. Daily we are bombarded with various thoughts, opinions and concepts and while we may accept or adopt certain opinions, they in themselves are not transformational – but why? Because, when a new and better idea comes along it is easy to abandon our past thoughts to accommodate the new one. However, when a thought is also accommodated by your heart, connecting to your feelings and emotions, it takes on a new dimension – it becomes a conviction. You see, a thought that becomes a conviction defines who we are. We take ownership of that thought and it becomes part of us. An opinion may easily shift, if a new idea comes along, but a conviction that is anchored in the
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heart will not easily budge because in essence, it is part of us, part of our values. A conviction is therefore concrete and less vulnerable to change – it is transformational. This is where journaling comes in as a brilliant tool in helping us shape convictions that are honourable and will service us well. A conviction to lose weight will take the weight loss beyond the objective of just feeling and looking good. A conviction will help us to go deeper, anchoring on the elements of self-respect and the importance of preserving our health and honouring our wellbeing. It moves deeper to find virtue and purpose for what we embrace. Journaling, allows us to explore what we hear, ponder on it, meditate on in and express it in our own words. It connects our mind and thoughts to our heart, allowing us to shift an idea to a conviction. Once this occurs, we have established an immovable foundation on which our habits can gain deeper purpose and meaning. Of all the habits I have adopted, journaling has had the most profound impact in shaping me into the person I want to be and feel the most at peace with. There is something about externalising our thoughts and feelings and putting them on paper that allows us to extract greater wisdom and make better decisions. WHY IS JOURNALING SO EFFECTIVE? They say if you want to reach your goals, write them down. If you want to remember something, write it down. If you want to discover what’s really going on in your mind, write it down. I use journaling to serve all three of those purposes, but most importantly, I use it to objectively review my thoughts, examining their intentions and where they sit with my values. Too many “I” and you know you are in trouble … It is amazing what you can pick up about yourself with journaling. There is something very special about the connection between your brain and your hand physically writing something down that allows the heart to also engage in this process, bring a deeper understanding to your thought processes that leads you to great wisdom. Also, if you’re looking for new ideas or you want to get to the bottom of something that’s bothering you, journaling helps you tap into your subconscious and discover some of the issues that were in your blind spot.
The act of journaling — having to move a part of your body — seems to signal a real effort toward the end you want it to serve. It’s a step above thinking and daydreaming. And if you can turn it into a habit, you’re subtly telling yourself, “I have committed to doing something.” Commitments build confidence, self-esteem, and make it more likely to reach whatever goals you have. Each positive little commitment or habit you adopt, you’re saying “I trust myself.” That’s key. That’s huge. It’s pretty much what selfhelp boils down to. How you journal doesn’t matter much but here are some ideas if you’re feeling stuck. So, is there a science about journaling? Apparently, there is and in brief this is what the studies have discovered: BETTER SLEEP: Studies confirm that journaling can help unclutter confusion and can lead to greater peace of mind, allowing you to gain greater quality of sleep. STAY CALM AND IN CONTROL: The benefits of journaling even go so far as to rewirite the way your brain processes emotions, so that you feel more empowered and in control! Studies confirm that those with a journaling practice show more perspective, have better control over their emotions and are less likely to become overwhelmed.
CULTIVATE GRATITUDE: Practicing gratitude has been shown to have major positive health impacts. It's been found to reduce aggression, boost happiness, improve relationships, decrease stress, improve confidence and more! And a journaling practice can be an easy, daily way to reconnect with more gratitude and more of these benefits. INCREASE PRODUCTIVITY: A study conducted by the Harvard Business School into the science of journaling found that journaling's benefits include improving an individual's performance, making them 25% more productive. IMPROVE MEMORY: Studies have also proved that journaling can benefit better memory and recall. That's because journaling allows you to - first revisit and think through past experiences, moments, and events. FEEL HAPPIER: Those who already have a journaling practice won't be surprised to hear that increased happiness is one of the benefits of journaling! The Journal of Social and Personal Relationships found that when individuals used journaling as a way to challenge negativity, or find a silver lining, they felt more in control of how they were and significantly less distressed overall. LOWER BLOOD PRESSURE: If you're looking for some more physical proof of journaling's scientific benefits, look no further than its effect on blood pressure, as research shows that lower blood pressure is one of the physical health benefits of journaling. BOOST IMMUNE FUNCTION: Now more than ever, people are realising the importance of a healthy immune system. Research into the science behind journaling has proved that even your immune system can benefit from journaling. That's because when you have a clearer state of mind and fewer distracting or stressful thoughts dragging you down, your physical health benefits too. Journaling has even been proven to help wounds heal faster. HEAL FROM TRAUMATIC EVENTS: While journaling is not the only solution to trauma healing, it can have powerful results when the individual journals with intention. A 2005 study found that participants who journaled about a difficult experience or time reduced the negative emotions that moment made them feel. In other words, journaling helped study participants visibly heal from past trauma as well as support physical health and lower rate of sickness. KNOW YOURSELF BETTER: This one is perhaps one of the most important. Today’s society is saturated with social media, comparison and pressure in business. Working in a high-level job is praised, but truly knowing who you are is often brushed over. Self-awareness is one of the most important things someone can gain and a definite benefit of journaling. That's because journaling about an experience allows your brain to relive it so that you can take a moment to appreciate your talents, abilities, and strengths, which - in the moment - you might not even notice. Take a little time to get to know yourself will allow you to improve confidence and reduce doubt. Taking the time to understand the way you think, what you want, and what your strengths are can truly revolutionise your life – it has certainly helped me improve my mental health and has allowed me to gain greater clarity on my purpose and my overall sense of wellbeing. If you are not already journaling, try it, it can change your life. APJ
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SKIN SCIENCE
SKIN HEALTH AND THE ROLE OF WATER INTAKE
The Facts & Myths Prof. Terry Everitt
WHEN DEALING WITH ENHANCING SKIN HYDRATION LEVELS we all know the importance of drinking sufficient water to support the skin. However, as a professional what advice are you giving your clients about quantity, and is this advice correct? In this article Professor Terry Everitt shares some light on recent studies on this subject.
EPIDERMAL AND DERMAL WATER CONTENT REQUIREMENTS
As we know, the skin is a multilayer interface between you and the environment, functioning for temperature regulation, water transport, sensation, and protection from external triggers, among other barrier functions.
Skin connective tissue is crucial for water storage in the body. Someone weighing about 70 kg has a skin tissue volume of about 7 litres. The extracellular matrix comprises two-thirds of this volume and about 50% fluid with proteoglycans, binding one-third of the total interstitial fluid.
Water is an essential nutrient with multiple vital roles in skin physiology. Yet, while many myths abound, the optimal methods and amounts for hydrating the cellular and molecular skin requirements remain elusive. Water accounts for 50–80% of body weight, depending on lean body mass. Excluding perspiration, the average water turnover is approximately 4% of total body weight in adults. In a 70 kg adult, this is equivalent to 2,500–3,000 mL/day (National Health and Medical Research Council (2006; updated 2017, p.45). Multiple principal factors influence the diversity of skin characteristics, along with causes and possible consequences (Dąbrowska et al., 2018). Primary among the elements are the various barriers and hydration of the integumentary system, specifically in the epidermis. Water is essential for skin health and normal physiological functioning, yet our understanding of how much water is needed is limited, or should we say is anecdotal – until now.
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Cutaneous water content has essential roles in varying skin functions, such as the barrier function or the "envelope" function, and water deficiency is associated with several dermatological dysfunctions.
Getting and keeping water in the area is a delicate interplay of various pressures and mechanisms under the Starling Equation. Water retention in the Stratum Corneum depends on two major components: 1. Natural hygroscopic agents within the corneocytes (collectively referred to as natural moisturising factor) 2. Intercellular lipids orderly arranged to form a barrier to trans epidermal water loss (TEWL). In the dermis, the high molecular weight glycosaminoglycan with markedly hydrophilic properties, hyaluronic acid (HA), contributes to the skin's hydration and plasticity.
MYTHS ON HOW MUCH WATER IS NEEDED One big myth often quoted for healthy skin is the need to drink eight glasses of water a day. My question has always been – how big is the glass? Eight glasses a day for skin health is a major misquote from an advisory from the Mayo Clinic in New York, stating that eight 8oz glasses per day is recommended for healthy body fluid intake (body, not the skin). However, this has since been withdrawn, as no scientific evidence existed with the presented information from the Mayo clinic. Bentivena, Waldman and Grant-Kels (2021) concluded that there is no basis to support the ‘eight 8oz glasses per day intake’ concept as specific research is needed to validate what is required to hydrate the skin maximally. Such is unlikely due to the differing requirements of each individual. Unfortunately, one study (Williams et al., 2007) relating to the effect of long-term [4 weeks] water intake [2.25 litres daily of mineral water or tap water] on skin physiology has been misquoted as showing significant improvement. In the study 93 subjects drank 2.5 litres of water a day (either tap or mineral water). After four weeks, the measurements in the mineral water group revealed a significant decrease in skin density and increased skin thickness. However, this was significant only in the participants who routinely drank comparably little water prior to the study. On the other hand, in the tap water group, skin density increased significantly, and skin thickness decreased significantly, but not in the other group. All measurements were on the volar forearm, with 86 subjects completing the study. Objective skin surface morphology did not change in any group, which is interesting and important. Generally, it is believed that drinking lots of water reduces visible signs of cutaneous ageing, such as wrinkles and lines, however this was not found in this study. As the authors admitted, "…not all of the objectively measured changes can be explained straightforwardly, as the exact mechanisms necessitate further research in this area." (Williams et al., 2007, p 136). MORE RECENT STUDIES Regarding epidermal hydration, Palma et al. (2015) found a consistent improvement of superficial and deep hydration, although with different magnitudes in a group with lower initial water consumption (significantly greater and present in all anatomical areas), relative to the reduced impact observed in the group with adequate average water intake (p. 417). Akdeniz et al. (2018) undertook a systematic review of 23 published articles, indicated a slight increase in stratum corneum and "deep" skin hydration was observed after additional water intake. Reductions of clinical signs of dryness and roughness were observed. The extensibility and elasticity of the skin increased slightly. However, this appeared particularly in individuals with lower prior water consumption than those deemed with adequate water intake. Ultimately the authors declared the evidence weak in quantity and methodological quality. INTAKE
Don't think drinking extensive quantities of water as you can daily is a great idea either – such can cause water poisoning (also referred to as water intoxication), causing cellular swelling (hyponatremia) and even death. There is no question you need water intake daily, yet how much remains elusive as a generalisation – your own body can tell you the amount you need. It is often said that you drink when you're thirsty, but this is not so accurate an indicator as you would already be dehydrated if you feel thirsty. The World Health Organization (WHO) guidelines recommend 2.9 litres per day for males and 2.2 litres for females to maintain hydration, assuming average sedentary adults under average conditions. Australian and New Zealand recommended intake is 3.4 litres per day for males, with adult females being 2.8 litres per day (National Health and Medical Research Council, 2016, p.47). While plain water is optimal, food moisture is an essential source of total water intake, accounting for about 25% in adults. To be precise, all fluid is counted as water intake, even caffeinated coffee and tea, sugar-laden sodas, and alcohol, although such may also have a detrimental impact on health. Getting your water intake from the tap is fine and healthy in Australia and much cheaper than getting it in a plastic bottle (many from Australian tap water). You can check out requirements on how and why tap water is safe via the Australian Drinking Water Guidelines (updated 2022). https://www.nhmrc.gov.au/about-us/publications/ australian-drinking-water-guidelines Most adults (and many children) consume inadequate water intake levels for optimal health and particularly skin health. In summary, science is substantiating that increasing water intake would increase skin water values, even if the quality of the evidence is scientifically weak. What is not validated is the issue of fixed quantity of water intake. If the client has adequate water intake from whatever means, it appears they do not need to increase water intake for skin health. On the other hand, those who drink very little water do need to increase water intake for skin health. Remembering some of your treatments will affect the water composition of the skin, you need to consistently advise clients regarding adequate higher consumption of plain drinking water and, no doubt, lower consumption of other discretionary fluid choices. There is no doubt that water input of one’s regular diet positively impact normal skin physiology, as expressed by its hydration and biomechanical behaviour, yet exactly how much remains in doubt. As always, there are no absolutes as the right quantity of water intake will depend on several factors. Fluid intake is essential, but what is in the fluid is also important. Once we get the fluid into the skin, the real trick is to keep it there and prevent trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) of some 100–150 mls per square metre of skin surface per day (Sparr et al., 2013), but is a story for another day. APJ
The various studies are indicating that adequate water intake is entirely individual, depending on activity, climate, diet, metabolism, water quality, air conditioning, and health status.
For a list of references, please contact the editor.
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RESEARCH
MSM - The “Forgotten Mineral” Your Skin and Body Needs Eva Boyd
AS WE AGE THE FLEXIBLE TISSUES IN OUR BODY TEND TO LOSE THEIR ELASTICITY, which can lead to sagging and wrinkled skin, as well as less flexible muscles and less comfortable joints. And one of the nutrients needed most to support them that may be in increasing the supply of the mineral Methylsulfonyl Methane, more commonly known as MSM.
Sulphur is one of the most abundant minerals in the body. However, its value and importance to your health may be largely unappreciated.
Working with the skin and body we often seek nutrients we can partner with to bring about positive results to both our skin and body treatments. In this article we look at MSM and the role it plays for healthy skin and body. As most good things are already present in the body MSM is no exception, even though it can be supplemented for added benefit.
As we know, hair, skin, and nails consist of a tough protein composed in significant part of sulphur called keratin, while connective tissue and cartilage contain proteins with flexible sulphur bonds, giving the structures flexibility.
Methylsulfonyl Methane is a well-known dietary supplement form of sulphur that is found in our living tissues. It supports healthy connective tissues such as tendons, ligaments, and muscle. Thus, it is important in conditions such as arthritis, muscle pains, bursitis, etc.
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Sulphur bonds are required for proteins to maintain their shape, and these bonds determine the biological activity of the proteins.
In addition to bonding proteins, sulphur is also required for the proper structure and biological activity of enzymes. If we don't have sufficient amounts of sulphur in our body, these enzymes cannot function optimally.
BACKGROUND
MSM FOR RELIEF OF PAIN AND INFLAMMATION
To better understand the role of MSM is supporting the body’s sulphur needs, some background information is necessary.
Approximately half of the total body sulphur is concentrated in the muscles, skin and bones. One of the most significant uses of MSM as a supplement is its demonstrated ability to relieve pain and inflammation. When rigid fibrous tissue cells swell and become inflamed, pressure and pain result. Since MSM can restore flexibility and permeability to cell walls, fluids can pass through the tissues more easily. This helps equalise pressure and reduce or eliminate the cause of pain. Harmful substances such as lactic acid and toxins are allowed to flow out, while nutrients are permitted to flow in. This prevents the pressure build-up in cells that causes inflammation.
MSM is a naturally occurring nutrient found in normal human diets. It gets into the diet through the sulphur cycle. Ocean plankton release sulphur compounds which rise into the ozone where ultraviolet light makes MSM and DMSO. DMSO, dimethyl sulfoxide, is a precursor to MSM. MSM and DMSO return to the surface of the earth in rain. Plants concentrate MSM and return it to the earth and the sea. Evaporation into the air results in their return to the earth. MSM has a unique action on body tissues. It decreases the pressure inside the cell. In removing fluids and toxins, sulphur affects the cell membrane. MSM is an organic form of sulphur, whereas sulphites in foodstuffs are inorganic. Sulphur is present in all cells and is in the form of organic compounds throughout the body. However, sulphur can be found in the body in sulphate forms. It forms sulphate compounds with sodium, potassium, magnesium, and selenium. The significant thing about sulphur compounds is that they are found everywhere throughout the body and in nature.
MSM has shown a remarkable ability to reduce or eliminate muscle soreness and cramps both in geriatric patients and in athletes. It's even given to racehorses before a race to prevent muscle soreness, and afterwards to reduce the risk of cramping. People with arthritis report substantial and long-lasting relief with MSM supplements. Taken along with glucosamine, a key substance in the process of rebuilding cartilage, MSM can relieve pain and help repair worn or damaged cartilage in joints, ligaments and tendons with healthy, flexible new cells. HOW DOES MSM WORK?
Sulphur has an indirect importance to our body because it plays a role in many body organs and systems. It is present in the hair, skin, and nails. Many amino acids, the building blocks of protein, have sulphur as a component. Taurine is a sulphur-containing amino acid formed from methionine. Taurine stabilises cell membranes and its sulphur detoxifies cells and is also involved in pain relief. Carnitine comes from methionine and transports long chain fatty acids preventing accumulations of lipoproteins. Many B-complex vitamins interact with or contain sulphur. Sulphur is needed for insulin production and for numerous other body functions. SKIN AND HEALTH CONDITIONS THAT CAN BENEFIT FROM MSM •
Acne
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Asthma
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Allergies
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Candida Yeast Infections
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Skin damage and ageing
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Toxic Build-up
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Fragile hair and nails
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Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
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Ulcers
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Chronic Fatigue
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Migraine headaches
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Constipation
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Muscles pain and cramps
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Diabetes
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Parasites
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Digestive Disorders
One current use of MSM is for joint problems, as sulphur is found in and near osseous structures and supports healthy muscles, tendons, and ligaments. Studies confirm that arthritic conditions respond well to oral MSM normalising pressure inside cells and removes toxins. Other conditions that have reportedly responded positively to MSM supplements include: (TOP BOX SHOULD BE HEAR) A body made up of healthy, flexible cells, will not only feel better it will look better too. The body is continuously at work replacing old, worn-out cells with new ones. The process goes on 24 hours a day, seven days a week, without stopping. When all the raw materials needed for cell-building are available, it is a very efficient process. When there are deficiencies, the new cells may be weak, rigid or deformed and one of the most important raw materials for building healthy new cells is MSM.
MSM makes cell walls permeable, allowing water and nutrients to freely flow into cells and allowing wastes and toxins to properly flow out. The body uses MSM along with Vitamin C to create new, healthy cells, and MSM provides the flexible bond between the cells. Without proper levels of MSM, our bodies are unable to build good healthy cells. This can lead to problems such as lost flexibility, scar tissue, wrinkles, varicose veins, hardened arteries, damaged lung tissues, dry cracking skin, digestive disorders, joint problems, and inability to defend against allergic reactions to food, animals and plants. MSM is also an antioxidant that helps to clean the blood stream and flush toxins trapped in our cells. It is also a foreign protein and free radical scavenger. In order to maintain good health, we need to supplement our diets with MSM, to enable the body to heal itself. The body uses what it needs, and after 12 hours will flush out any excess amounts. THE BEAUTY MINERAL FOR HAIR, SKIN AND NAILS Sulphur has been called nature's "beauty mineral" because it is needed to keep the hair glossy and smooth and keeps the complexion clear and youthful. It is needed for synthesis of collagen and is prevalent in keratin, which is essential for the health and maintenance of the skin, nails and hair. MSM is responsible for the flexible bisulfide bonds between cells, including those that make up the skin. It blocks undesirable chemical and physical cross-linking or bonding of collagen, which is associated with tough, ageing skin. Consequently, MSM enhances tissue pliability and encourages repair of damaged skin. If there is insufficient sulphur in the body when new cells are being manufactured, the new cells will be rigid. This rigidity can contribute to cracking, wrinkling and unsightly scar tissue. When sufficient sulphur is present for new cells, the skin is softer, smoother and more flexible. MSM plays a key role in providing the body with that sulphur, this is why we are now seeing MSM included in skincare formulations. Acne, including the severe acne rosacea, responds favourably to MSM supplements. Adequate sulphur and vitamin C are also needed for healing of skin conditions. When the body is deficient in these nutrients, the new tissue will be elevated leaving an unattractive, raised scar. Because MSM makes the skin more permeable and pliant, it can also help prevent blistering and promote faster healing from sunburn or wind damage. APJ 77
seem that we would get plenty of this essential mineral from dietary sources and should not need supplements, but that may not be the case. In terms of food, meat, poultry, fish, eggs and dairy products are the main sources of dietary sulphur, but because of their high fat content we often restrict some of these foods from our diet. Vegetarians, especially those who do not eat eggs, are at particular risk for sulphur deficiency.
With MSM supplements, nails show not only an increase in growth rate, but also increased toughness and resistance to chipping and cracking. This effect has been seen both in human nails and horses’ hoofs. ALLERGENS, TOXINS AND PARASITES Flexible, permeable cells are also important in that they allow toxins, allergens and foreign substances to be flushed out of the body more easily. When skin cells are soft and permeable, many toxins can be eliminated through the sweat glands, which takes some of the load off the liver and kidneys. While MSM is not a cure for allergies, supplementation may reduce symptoms by allowing allergens to be removed from the body more quickly. Even reactions to insect bites, poison ivy and poison oak are less severe when the diet is supplemented with MSM. Vitamin C is also synergistic in this application in that it can lower histamine levels. MSM has also shown amazing anti-parasitic action against Giardia, Trichomonas, roundworms, nematodes, Enterobius and other intestinal worms. When parasites attach themselves to the intestinal lining, they can live, reproduce and rob the body of nutrients indefinitely. MSM when taken as a supplement blocks parasites by competing for receptor sites on the mucous membrane. When parasites cannot attach themselves, they are simply flushed out of the system. The same is true with food allergens. MSM coats mucosal surfaces and occupies the binding sites that could otherwise be used by challenging food allergens. It can also bind with offending agents to produce harmless substances, which are then excreted from the body. This facilitates normal digestion and assimilation and allows the body to get maximum nutritional value from foods that would otherwise cause a reaction. Individuals who experience an allergic response to certain foods have reported improved or complete tolerance to those foods when they take MSM supplements. Healthy flexible colon tissues along with improved digestion can also relieve constipation. DIABETES As sulphur is also a component of insulin, the hormone that regulates carbohydrate metabolism, insufficient sulphur may result in decreased insulin production. It is also possible that a lack of bioavailable sulphur would make the cells so rigid and impermeable that they become unable to absorb sugar from the blood efficiently, leaving blood sugar levels elevated. Studies indicate that regular MSM supplements, which cause the cell to become permeable, could help balance blood sugar and allow the overworked pancreas to return to normal. WHY SUPPLEMENT? Since sulphur is present in every cell of every living thing, it might
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So, can we get sulphur from plant cells? Yes, but not in abundant quantities and much of the MSM present in unprocessed foods is lost in washing, cooking or steaming. And, of course, MSM levels decline noticeably with age, so, the older you get, the more important it becomes to maintain adequate sulphur levels in the body. USAGE AND TOXICITY Due to its positive effects, particularly in maintaining healthy cell formation, 2,000 to 6,000 mg. of supplemental MSM daily is recommended. Of course, the optimum daily dosage of MSM depends largely on body size, age and the nature and severity of any deficiency symptoms you may be experiencing. Since vitamin C provides a positive synergistic it should be taken along with MSM. MSM ranks in the "extremely low" toxicity category with a toxicity profile similar to that of water. When oral supplements are taken, the body will distribute MSM where it is needed. After about 12 hours, any excess amounts will be flushed out of the body. MSM, a member of the sulphur family, should never be confused with sulphur drugs, which some people are allergic to. If you don't eat meat, there are other sources of sulphur including organic pastured eggs, coconut oil, and olive oil, as well as most cruciferous vegetables (when grown in soil that contained adequate amounts of sulphur). Other sources include: •
Brussels sprouts
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Legumes
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Asparagus
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Garlic
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Kale
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Onion
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Wheat germ
A FINAL WORD Regardless of whether your diet provides adequate amounts of sulphur, we probably take for granted the fact that sulphur is provided by our atmosphere and soil. Plants obviously require sulphur in soil in order to pass any on to you. And grass-fed beef and pastured poultry that eat plants need adequate amounts in what they consume to help keep this essential mineral in the food chain as well. However, soils around the globe are becoming increasingly sulphur depleted. resulting in less sulphur-rich foods overall. This depletion is primarily due to over-farming and decreased sulphur deposits on crops as a result of emission-reducing technologies used at coalfired power plants. MSM is an important mineral that plays an key role in supporting and enhancing skin health, pain management and overall wellbeing. Look for it also in skincare. APJ
NUTRITION FOR BETTER HEALTH AND SKIN
COLLAGEN SUPPLEMENTS
ARE THEY WORTH THE HYPE? Fiona Tuck We are delighted to have FIONA TUCK join our APJ Editorial Team with her own dedicated column - NUTRITION FOR BETTER HEALTH AND SKIN. Fiona Tuck is very well known and respected in our industry as a passionate professional and expert who is highly accomplished. She is an author, nutritional medicine practitioner and skin therapist with over 30 years’ experience in the professional skincare industry. Her experience ranges from practitioner, clinic owner, educator, product development and media commentator. She is the founder of Vita-sol nutraceutical wholefood powders and one of Australia’s most televised skin and nutrition experts. However, her contribution to this column will only contain generic education. In this issue she discussed the controversial subject of collagen supplements. ‘Ingestible skincare is predicted to be the biggest skincare industry trend for 2022. Industry reports value collagen supplements alone at more than US$1.8 billion in 2019, and it is projected to reach US$3 billion by 2027. The popularity of collagen supplements in the professional aesthetic industry remains divided, with many practitioners being avid fans having seen noticeable improvements in skin health, others are more sceptical believing that the body doesn’t know the difference between the proteins that we get naturally from food and collagen supplements.
Let’s review this and look at the science: Collagen is a large molecule, approximately 300k Daltons in size meaning that the collagen molecule is too large to be absorbed via the gut and must first be broken down via digestion, in the same way that protein from food is digested. When we consume collagen from food, such as from bone broth and gelatin this is how it is processed - ingested collagen does not get magically transported to the skin and attach to existing collagen, these absorbed amino acids are then used by the body as required. Collagen does however, contain hydroxy proline, an amino acid unique to collagen and this may be one of the reasons why studies have shown improvements particularly in joint health when consuming native or unhydrolysed collagen. Our bodies rely on getting the correct amino acids via the diet in order to be able to efficiently make hydroxy proline. If the diet is low in nutrients and amino acids required for healthy collagen production, our collagen quality may be compromised. When it comes to the collagen supplements recommended for skin health, most collagen supplements use fully hydrolysed collagen, meaning that the molecular size of the collagen is much smaller than that of native collagen. Collagen peptides are a hydrolysed form of collagen, unique oligopeptides supplying the necessary amino acids for the development of collagen in connective tissue and skin. Collagen peptides have a molecular size of 2 – 6 k Daltons (thousands of times smaller than native collagen) and studies have shown that collagen peptides can be absorbed via the PEPT 1 transporter in the gut. These peptides work as signalling molecules, mimicking the fibroblast like growth factor that signals the fibroblast cell to produce type 1 and 3 collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. Both bovine and marine collagen peptides show promising results in clinical studies and in randomised control studies, however marine collagen is thought by many to be the gold standard for skin health as it has shown superior results in some studies when it comes to improved skin hydration and skin elasticity. Studies have also shown that collagen supplements can significantly increase skin hydration and improve elasticity and collagen density, however the amount of daily collagen required to see results varies in studies from 2.5g – 15g depending on the type of collagen used, what else it is mixed with and the age, activity levels and wound healing requirements of the patient. According to a study by the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology collagen peptides reduced wrinkles by over 30% after three months. Visible improvements in the skin can be seen between 6 – 12 weeks with some people reporting anecdotal improvements in skin hydration after just two weeks. APJ
For a list of references, please contact the editor.
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RESEARCH
UNDERSTANDING ROSACEA AND TREATMENT RECOMMENDATIONS Tina Viney SKIN INFLAMMATION CAN BE TRIGGERED BY MANY THINGS – a disturbed microbiome, irritating ingredients in cosmetic, allergies and of course, stress being a major contributing factor. Since the onset of COVID-19 we are seeing many skin rashes and inflamed skin conditions, and as professionals, if we are to effectively treat the skin, we should seek to identify not just the manifestations, but also their origin. However, with a lack of adequate knowledge in skin diagnosis it is easy to place them all under the safe box of “Sensitive Skin”. One, often misdiagnosed skin condition is rosacea. As on-going research continues to provide us with new data, we progressively can gain better knowledge for a more targeted approach towards our treatment outcomes. Let’s take a closer look at Rosacea.
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WHAT IS ROSACEA? Rosacea is a type of non-contagious skin inflammation that typically affects the face. Symptoms include enlarged capillaries, a permanent flush and non-tender pustules. While rosacea can be controlled with various strategies and treatments, there is no known permanent cure. Rosacea is also more prevalent in women than it is in men, so at some stage of your practice you will most likely identify this condition with some of your female clients. Rosacea can vary substantially from one individual to another, and in most cases some, rather than all of the potential signs and symptoms will appear. According to a consensus committee and review panel of 28 medical experts worldwide, diagnosis requires at least one diagnostic sign or two major signs of rosacea. Various secondary signs and symptoms may also develop but are not diagnostic.
DIAGNOSTIC SIGNS OF ROSACEA The presence of either of these signs is diagnostic of rosacea: •
•
Persistent Redness Persistent facial redness is the most common individual sign of rosacea and may resemble a blush or sunburn that does not go away. Skin Thickening The skin may thicken and enlarge from excess tissue, most commonly on the nose (known as rhinophyma). This condition is less common, but can lead to facial disfigurement and inadequate nasal airflow if severe.
MAJOR SIGNS OF ROSACEA The presence of at least two of these symptoms is diagnostic of rosacea: •
Flushing Many people with rosacea have a history of frequent blushing or flushing. This facial redness may be accompanied by a sense of heat, warmth or burning that comes and goes, and is often an early feature of the disorder.
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Bumps and Pimples Small red solid bumps or pus-filled pimples often develop. While these may resemble acne, blackheads are absent and burning or stinging may occur.
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Visible Blood Vessels In many people with rosacea, prominent and visible small blood vessels (telangiectasia) which may be visible on the cheeks, nasal bridge, and other areas of the central face.
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Eye Irritation In many rosacea patients, the eyes may be irritated and appear watery or bloodshot, a condition commonly known as ocular rosacea. The eyelids also may become red and swollen, and styes are common. Crusts and scale may accumulate around the eyelids or eyelashes, and patients may notice visible blood vessels around the lid margins. Severe cases can result in corneal damage and loss of visual acuity without medical help.
SECONDARY SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS These may appear with one or more of the diagnostic or major signs. •
Burning or Stinging Burning or stinging sensations may often occur on the face. Itching or a feeling of tightness may also develop.
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Swelling Facial swelling, known as oedema, may accompany other signs of rosacea, or occur independently. Raised red patches, known as plaques, may develop without changes in the surrounding skin.
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Dryness The central facial skin may be rough and appear scaly despite some patients complaining of oily skin.
allergies, infections, underlying diseases and structural defects of the skin, including blocked pores or malfunctioning oil glands. Rosacea is similar in nature to other types of skin rashes, including acne, dermatitis, eczema, hives, pityriasis and psoriasis. In summary, rosacea falls into four different clinical sub-types. These are: •
Sub-type 1 (erythematotelangiectatic rosacea): characterised by facial redness, flushing, visible blood vessels (the most common sub-type).
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Sub-type 2 (papulopustular rosacea): characterised by acnelike breakouts and sensitivity (most common among middleaged women); alongside persistent redness, bumps (papules) and/or pimples (pustules) are frequent.
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Sub-type 3 (phymatous rosacea): characterised by swelling, fluid retention (oedema), thickening skin (especially around the nose, or rhinophyma), redness and various symptoms from other subtypes.
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Sub-type 4 (ocular rosacea): characterised by rosacea around the eyes.
WHAT CAUSES ROSACEA? Although the cause of rosacea remains unknown, researchers have now identified major elements of the disease process that may lead to significant advances in its treatment. Recent studies have shown that the facial redness is likely to be the start of an inflammatory continuum initiated by a combination of neurovascular dysregulation and the innate immune system. The role of the innate immune system in rosacea has been the focus of groundbreaking studies including the discovery of irregularities of key microbiological components known as cathelicidins. Further research has now demonstrated that a marked increase in mast cells, located at the interface between the nervous system and vascular system, is a common link in all major presentations of the disorder. Other recent studies that have found associations between rosacea and increased risk for a growing number of potentially serious systemic diseases, suggesting that rosacea may be an outcome of systemic inflammation. Although causal relationships have not been determined, these have included cardiovascular disease, gut and gastrointestinal disease, neurological and autoimmune diseases and certain cancers. It is therefore advisable to consider a whole-body approach when addressing psoriatic skin conditions. TAKING A CLOSER LOOK AT INFLAMMATION To get closer in understanding rosacea, you must identify what causes inflammation in rosacea, in the first place? Several known factors that to contribute to the development of rosacea, including: •
Blood vessels: Problems with blood vessels in the skin.
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Sun damage: UV radiation that produces vascular changes — researchers at the Boston University School of Medicine concluded that exposure to the ultraviolet (UV) radiation in sunlight spurred the production of vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), a substance that is linked to the development of visible blood vessels (telangiectasia) causing abnormal inflammatory reaction within the skin’s connective tissue.
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Demodex Mite: The Demodex mite that is a normal inhabitant of human facial skin. Evidence appears to be mounting that an overabundance of Demodex may possibly trigger an immune response in people with rosacea, or that the inflammation may be caused by certain bacteria associated with the mites. in the Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology,
In rare cases, rosacea signs and symptoms may also develop beyond the face, most commonly on the neck, chest, scalp or ears. Rosacea can start out as a small rash, patch of bumps, or redness before spreading and becoming more intense. As we have already stated, the condition isn’t contagious, and oftentimes, symptoms can come and go depending on how stressed or run-down the individual may be. Above all however, rosacea is a type of inflammation that shows up as a rash similar to other rashes/breakouts that cause an area of red, sensitive and inflamed skin. Rashes are caused by irritation,
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Demodex was found in 15 to 18 times greater numbers in rosacea patients than in healthy subjects. •
Medication: Reactions and side effects to certain medications.
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Genetic factor: Sub-types of rosacea seem to have a genetic factor and might run in families. People who have light, sensitive skin and light eyes are more likely to have rosacea (including those with northern or western European descent). In fact, some reports show that only around four per cent of rosacea patients are of African, Latino or Asian descent, yet in European countries like Sweden around 10 per cent of all adults have rosacea.
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Gender: It’s also seen more commonly in women than in men (with some reports showing that three times as many women suffer from rosacea than men.
FURTHER STUDIES CONFIRM One 2009 analysis done by The Dermatology Outpatient’s Clinic of Jagiellonian University School of Medicine in Cracow concluded that among the men and women in the trial factors that most triggered rosacea skin changes were: •
Stress: 58%
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Sun exposure 56.5%
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Alcohol 33.3%
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Exercise 29%
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Drinking coffee 21.7%
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Hot meals and spicy food 20.3%.
In a separate survey of 1,066 rosacea patients conducted by the National Rosacea Society in the US, the most common rosacea triggers included sun exposure 81%, and emotional stress 79% but at higher percentages. Other rosacea triggers included hot weather 75%, wind 57%, heavy exercise 56%, alcohol consumption 52%, hot baths 51%, cold weather 46%, spicy foods 45%, humidity 44%, indoor heat 41% and certain skin-care products 41%.
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IMPACT ON MENTAL HEALTH Rosacea also takes a psychological toll. In a survey conducted by the National Rosacea Society, more than 90% of rosacea patients reported that their condition had lowered their self-confidence and self-esteem, while 41% indicated that it had caused them to avoid public contact or even cancel social plans. Among rosacea patients with severe symptoms, 88% cent noted that the problem damaged their professional interactions, and over half said they had even skipped work because of their skin issues. When treating rosacea, it is helpful to first determine to identify the triggers, this will naturally prevent rashes, or at the very least stop them from becoming worse. THE LINK TO GUT HEALTH New studies now confirm that inflammation stemming from gutrelated problems seems to be an especially important issue and root cause of skin disorders including rosacea. The skin is ultimately a reflection of our overall health, after all as the skin is nourished by the blood, how well you digest nutrients will ultimately impact the skin as well as your overall energy levels and health. Many studies have now confirmed an association between skin disorders — including rosacea, acne, dermatitis and psoriasis — and inflammatory gastrointestinal tract disorders. A recent study confirmed that an overactive immune system that causes autoimmune reactions is likely a major contributor to both skin and digestive disorders, including leaky gut syndrome, ulcerative colitis, SIBO symptoms Crohn’s disease and celiac disease. People who suffer from these disorders show heightened levels of immunoreactive neurones within their tissues and blood vessels that cause inflammation to progress. This inflammation has the power to change the structure of microbial (bacteria) populations that normally colonise the skin and protect it from damage, redness and rashes. Since inflammation that shows up on the skin can be a clue that one is experiencing inflammation within their gut, identifying food triggers is an important first step. The best way to tackle rosacea at its root is likely to approach the diet with a specific focus on anti-
inflammatory foods and removing common allergens (at least temporarily to track reactions) can make a huge impact on skin disorders by positively affecting gut health and getting rid of yeast and bad bacteria. If you identify symptoms of allergies and gut disfunction a referral to a naturopath or another healthcare practitioners would also be advisable.
like benefit-packed salmon (which provides anti-inflammatory omega-3 fatty acids) cage-free eggs, grass-fed animal products and legumes are all smart choices. •
TREATMENT RECOMMENDATIONS Diet: When assessing your client carefully examine their diet and consider changing your diet to remove any allergies, sensitives or common gut irritants.
The foods to avoid: •
Anything that causes allergies — If you have any food allergies or sensitivities that are going unnoticed, this can contribute to leaky gut syndrome, which kicks off autoimmune reactions. Allergens can be different from person to person, so doing an elimination diet can help you narrow down what might be causing symptoms. Some common allergens include: gluten, nuts, shellfish/seafood, dairy or eggs (but allergies can really be caused by any food such as nightshade vegetables, or some stone fruits. FODMAPs.
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Alcohol and caffeine — Coffee, other caffeinated drinks and alcohol seem to worsen some people’s rosacea symptoms, especially redness and flushing. This differs from person to person, but it’s worth seeing if your symptoms improve when you cut back on both.
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Sugar and processed foods — Sugar is known to worsen inflammation, increase oxidative stress, irritate the gut lining and aggravate skin disorders. Added sugar is found in a high percentage of processed, packaged foods, along with artificial sweeteners/ingredients, preservatives and texture stabilizers that can kick off allergic reactions.
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Conventional dairy products — Many people find that eliminating conventional cow’s dairy products (including yogurt, cheese, milk, ice cream, etc.) helps decrease skinrelated symptoms.
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Fried foods, trans-fats and hydrogenated oils — Refined vegetable oils that are high in omega-6s are pro-inflammatory. These include corn, soybean, safflower, sunflower and canola oils. Fried foods are also hard on the digestive system and can aggravate gut damage.
•
MANAGING STRESS LEVELS Aside from all the physical symptoms that rosacea can cause, many people also feel mentally and emotionally challenged by this skin condition. A high percentage of rosacea sufferers report feeling less confident due to their appearance. Ongoing facial blotchiness, bumps and redness can be really hard to handle emotionally (similarly to suffering from acne), but unfortunately stressing over the condition is only likely to make it worse.
•
Similarly, to acne breakouts, stress is known to be a common trigger of rosacea that can cause flare-ups. If you can introduce protocols in your practice such as relaxation techniques, massage, sound and music therapy or aromatherapy to help calm and relieve stress you will be adding another valuable strategy in their treatment plan to help benefit a rosacea condition from flare-ups.
Skin treatments: It is important to start with gentle products that restore the skin’s microbiome. This will strengthen the skin’s ability to defend itself against environmental irritants such as pollution and toxins that may be contributing to aggravating the skin. In this journal there are several companies that can provide you with specific new-generation formulation to assist in restoring the skin’s microbiome. UV protection: Anyone with rosacea-type symptoms, or any form of regular redness on the skin, should be careful about regularly using sunscreen on sensitive areas of the skin (especially the face). UV light seems to aggravate rosacea symptoms and can cause inflammation that is linked to its onset. Studies show that daily skin care regimens, including the use of a sunscreen, offers significant benefits against flare-ups. While getting exposure to the sun is important for vitamin D production within your skin, it’s best to keep your face well-protected. The sun is considered one of the most strongly aggravating factors of rosacea, according to some studies. Just be careful about the sunscreen you choose, since studies show many sunscreens are toxic and therefore can make symptoms even worse. Laser treatments: Your treatment plan can include laser light therapy if rosacea has caused visible blood vessels such as telangiectasia which can be removed with laser. Additionally, laser treatments can also reduce skin redness as well as refine the skin texture when the skin is too thick. Eye medication: If rosacea has spread to the eyelids, it is important to take eye medication or drops to address this issue. DIETARY RECOMMENDATIONS When it comes to food recommendations to help with healing rosacea, world-renowned Dr Axe is a highly respect expert in nutrition and regenerative medicine. Here are his recommended foods: •
Organic vegetables and fruit — These contain antiinflammatory compounds, antioxidants to lower oxidative stress and sun damage, and vitamins and minerals that help rebuild healthy skin cells. Leafy greens and orange/yellow fruits and vegetables are especially beneficial since they provide carotenoids that fight damage from sun exposure. Why is choosing organic important? Whenever you can, reduce your exposure to toxins and chemicals that can trigger skin reactions by buying organic.
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Healthy fats — Coconut oil, olive oil, avocado, nuts and seeds (like flax seeds and chia seeds) can all help reduce systemic inflammation within the gut. These are also important for helping with stress management and proper hormone production (plus they help keep you full for longer, so you’re less likely to crave processed foods that can trigger symptoms).
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High-quality “clean proteins” — The immune system needs enough quality protein to work properly, but some types are most likely to trigger reactions than others. Wild-caught fish
Anti-inflammatory foods and herbs — Studies confirm that turmeric, ginger, garlic, onions, cruciferous vegetables (like broccoli, cabbage, collard greens), carrots, tomatoes and green tea can all help to combat skin inflammation.
With today’s advances, while you may not be able to totally heal a rosacea condition you certainly have several options in providing substantial improvement and much-needed relief. APJ
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BUSINESS WISDOM
EIGHT THINGS TO DO EVERYDAY THAT WILL GIVE YOUR BUSINESS MOMENTUM Deb Farnworth-Wood
I HAVE OFTEN DESCRIBED RUNNING A BUSINESS AS BEING LIKE AN ENTERTAINMENT ACT “spinning plates.” During the show, everyone watching has conflicting emotions. On the one hand, they want the entertainer to keep the plates moving, but also want him to fail, bringing the plates crashing down!
telephones, undertaking consultations, and speaking to clients, can you really blame the client for not making a booking? I regularly test team members’ knowledge, listening to the way therapists talk to clients, and from time to time even call a client for feedback on their experience in the clinic.
In business we have people who want us to succeed and some who will enjoy watching us fail. Importantly, just like spinning plates, the act doesn’t allow you to stop what you are doing!
Script telephone calls: A basic telephone script will ensure consistency across team members in the way in which calls are handled. It is important not to try and have a full consultation by phone, which
It is a fact that those businesses that have well-defined expectations of their staff, as well as engaged team members, will keep the momentum going, at least long enough for you to have a breather. Here are my top eight essentials to keeping your clinic, salon, or spa business running smoothly: Provide a Magnificent Welcome: Make a good first impression in which your clients are met on every occasion with a warm welcome, a smile, and a high-energy “Hello, how are you?”. This will make the client feel at ease, welcome, and relaxed from the minute they walk through your door and keep your team energy high which is important. Maintain the love: A magnificent welcome must be followed up with the best possible service and energy until the client re-books and leaves the premises – otherwise, the effort is wasted. This may include encouraging staff to walk around from the reception desk to assist in product selection or finding information, right through to introducing other team members so that the client feels at home in your surroundings. Ensure your staff are knowledgeable and articulate: As a customer, there is only one thing worse than asking a staff member a question and being told they don’t know the answer – that is hearing an employee making up an answer that’s not correct! Thanks to Google, the modern consumer is generally knowledgeable and will quickly spot if they are fed misinformation. If employees without skill and knowledge are answering your
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could result in other calls going unanswered. Instead, provide the caller with just enough information to persuade them to come in for a formal consultation. Collect and maintain contact details from every potential and repeat client: This is mission critical. Every potential client that contacts your business, whether by walking through the door, via telephone, or by email, is the result of your costly marketing efforts. Once you have them on the line, it is vital that you collect their data to re-market to them later. Ensure that key contact data for every new and existing client are up to date. This means checking the data every time a regular client calls or walks through your door. Finally, you should always ask how the client found out about your business as this will help you to understand how effective your marketing spend was. Incentivise the staff: By rewarding the performance and behaviours that you want to see, you will encourage your team to display more of them. Work out what is important for your business, and then work out what each team member will consider to be an attractive reward. Consider the varying needs of each team member – not everyone is incentivised by money, for others, its lifestyle, recognition, training and so on. Post targets in your staff-room or kitchen where your team can see them (but clients cannot). Make the team accountable for their individual performance and although your point-of-sale will probably break the sales down by staff member, make your team members keep
their own running tally through the day to be handed into you at closing time to keep them accountable for their sales. Very importantly: remember to provide the promised reward when due, or the staff will see you as being dishonest.
the clinic to call me to make an appointment”, “I wasn’t convinced the therapist knew what she was talking about”, “She told me to think about it”. •
Had a new service for the first time. The aim of this call is to gauge client satisfaction with the service, but also to provide the opportunity for the client to ask any further questions or seek reassurance if necessary. If the client has any concerns, they are more likely to pick up the phone and call a friend than call you and the last thing the business needs is for its client to receive unqualified information.
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Had a service once and not returned in the expected timeframe. The objective of this call is to win back the client but be prepared that they may have stopped coming to your business because of a less than optimal experience with you. Build in the following questions:
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Were you seen on time?
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How did you find your treatment/service?
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Were you given enough information before and after the treatment/service?
Ask for referrals: People love to help people that have helped them. If you provide the client with amazing service and results, clients will be happy to refer you to their friends. Ensure that every client leaves with two business cards and is primed to give one to a friend. Simple, effective, and compulsory. Keep talking about your value proposition, or point of difference: It is important that you share with your employees your value proposition to get their buy-in. What sets you apart from the competitor? Unfortunately, too often staff focus on price when the discerning client is more interested in results, so team members need to be able to articulate the benefits of a treatment with you. Value your brand: Whether you are an independent business or belong to a larger group, your staff need to respect the business. Clear and concise rules that make sense, an understanding of the company vision and philosophy, together with a leader that supports these principles is essential. If you do not respect your brand, your staff will not respect the brand either and nor will their families/friends/neighbours. Quality Control: This can take many forms but should not always be delegated. The feedback you will receive will help you improve your business, and you cannot risk that others will hear it and not act. Here are some simple quality control exercises: •
Regularly call your clients to check their satisfaction. Select clients that have (for example) had a consultation but not booked a service. The aim of this call is to discover why the customer did not book. Some of the surprising responses I have had in the medi-aesthetic industry have included “I’m waiting for
It is often the little things that mean a lot to a client and ensure their return over and over. Remember, knowledge is power. Clients will always be researching the best treatments and asking questions of your staff, so your team must stay abreast of emerging trends and technologies. APJ Deb is a 10 x business founder across a range of Aesthetic, Health & Wellness businesses. She is the owner of Issada Cosmetics –the iconic Australian Mineral Make-up range, and Shave With Valor – an organic men’s grooming range. She also founded the Australian Skin Clinics Franchise which she sold in 2019.
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COSMETIC TATTOOING
THE NEW ERA IN POST-GRADUATE CORRECTIVE COSMETIC TATTOOING Katherine McCann
KATHERINE McCANN IS A PASSIONATE AND COMMITTED COSMETIC TATTOOISTS. OVER THE YEARS SHE HAS PROGRESSIVELY EVOLVED HER TECHNIQUES AND FINALLY FOUND HER TRUE NICHE IN SOLVING THE MORE CHALLENGING CONDITIONS THAT ARE OFTEN THE RESULT OF TRAUMA OR POORQUALITY WORK. Recently she announced a new venture in the making as she worked with colleagues, educators, academics and medical specialists to develop a comprehensive training program in PostGraduate Corrective Techniques in Medical Tattooing that is taking this modality to a whole new level. Here she shares with us about this exciting venture: APJ Q1: KATHERINE, YOU ARE PIONEERING A NEW AREA OF PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT FOR COSMETIC TATTOOING, CAN YOU TELL US HOW IT ALL CAME ABOUT? I am excited to be stepping sideways into the field of medical tattooing after years of performing cosmetic tattooing and dealing with botched work. The idea came about due to an ever-increasing demand for restorative tattooing services and while collaborating with an industry friend who shared the same interest in the medical tattoo field. It became apparent to us that not only was there a great demand for performing and receiving this type of service, there was also a clear gap in the market for cosmetic tattooists and practitioners alike to gain the appropriate skills for this level of work. Our training is targeting practitioners who are
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seeking evidence-based training at a higher level delivered through a structured learning program at a post graduate level. Our aim essentially is to create opportunities for technicians who are serious about elevating their skills and want to specialise in working with compromised skins in their various manifestations, with the objective of achieving corrective work supported by good quality healed outcomes - something that is not always covered in the current courses available today. APJ Q2: WHAT TRAINING WILL YOU BE DELIVERING AND HOW WILL THAT DELIVERY LOOK LIKE? One of the major points-of-difference with our post-graduate training programs is that they will be taught over a staggered learning format. We firmly believe that anyone who undertakes post-graduate training needs to complete the full cycle of several medical tattooing jobs, meaning that they must possess a strong focus on the contextual theoretical component, the practical hands-on component, as well as the submission of healed work. At least six case studies will be required of them with a summary report for each, detailing the treatment, how they were executed, issues encountered and what adjustments needed to be made. The graduates will gain a comprehensive understanding why a certain approach is taken and what is its imperative. From a post-graduate perspective, we will be teaching students the 'formula' to confidently perform a skill for whatever situation they
are presented with. Gaining critical analysis skills is important because it will equip them to accurately assess and determine what tools to use, how to prep a site and what plan of action to take. Achieving this requires in-depth skills development. This is not something that can be taught online, or in a few days with a certificate being issued for simply turning up - this grows with experience. Our aim is to assist and guide our students through ongoing mentoring and support and only produce graduates who can confidently undertake cases within their scope of practice. Achieving excellent healed results will be key. As easy as it sounds to do a quick online course, classes that make these skills appear easy to attain, often end up flooding the market with training that has been delivered with incredible skills gaps. This ultimately leads to problems further down the track, with corrective work often hard to rectify (a common phenomenon with microblading), but that is another story… Our training is about quality graduate output, not numbers. We are incredibly grateful for the input and endorsement of several leading plastic and reconstructive surgeons and associated industry professionals who have contributed to our educational program, thus ensuring that we are delivering the most up-to-date and current practices in line with medical standards.
evidence of consistent and predicable healed results, as well as a solid business ethic. Medical tattooing is not for early career tattooists as you really do need a good few years of experience to master a variety of skills. It's also imperative that a person with limited experience in large needle configurations first undertake a needle class to perfect that skill. It is essential that any medical tattooist has a proper understanding of their tools and how to use them in the various situations. It is also just as important to understand how the trauma or scar came about, the healing process and what changes to expect, or encounter throughout the medical tattooing journey. APJ Q4: HOW DO YOU BELIEVE THAT COSMETIC TATTOOING WILL EVOLVE OVER THE NEXT DECADE? I believe that in the immediate and coming years we will continue to be presented with more corrective work as we deal with the aged results of certain trends that have developed in recent years. A move away from single needle, with more expanding into mag/ shader work. A greater acceptance of males undertaking grooming tattooing procedures, less virgin skin to work on and the continues increase for training in removals and corrections. It will also be a really positive move as the industry embraces accredited training as a baseline, raising the standards of education for an industry which is still in the early stages of growth. APJ
APJ Q3: WHAT ARE THE PREREQUISITES FOR SOMEONE TO UNDERTAKE THIS TRAINING? We require a minimum of one year of machine work with good APJ 87
AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN
GOOD NEWS FOR SALONS AND CLINICS With the increased vaccinations, the lifting of mandates has created new enthusiasm as consumers are once again, are looking forward to their face-to-face personal care experience. But have consumers changed and what should every astute business owner do to cater for the subtle shifts in client expectations? Several research sources are confirming the new shopping habits of consumers and the rebound to the brick-and-mortar trend, which is gaining and will continue to gain momentum. This is great news for salon and clinics. However, they urge businesses not to take their clients for granted and to identify and cater for the new level of services consumers are seeking. They noted that during the lockdown consumers have engaged more frequently in their own personal research updating their knowledge on new advances, the trend towards green and clean and the importance of taking care of their emotional and mental wellbeing. Studies warn that clients that are returning are more astute since pre-
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COVID-19. Their need for meaningful human interaction has increased and the awareness for genuine, caring and sincere approach, is something they are intently seeking. Businesses are advised to update their offerings, include new advances in both skincare and technology, refresh their brand with a strong focus on health and wellbeing and include new protocols that support these changes. This also includes the need to change the language on how you meet and greet your clients. Staff training needs to be updated to harmoniously reflect these updates. Businesses are also advised on focusing on recovery strategies as great opportunities are continuing to surface that will better meet with consumer expectations. APAN is delighted to have launched their own MENTAL HYGIENE AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT program to help businesses establish the winning mindset for manages and their teams in moving forward. The program is available for $400 and if you are a member, you can access it for FREE. There has never been a better time to join and access this support. You can join today from the website www.apanetwork.com
COSMETIC INDUSTRY MOVES TOWARDS UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS Among 2022’s most significant beauty trends that have being embraced by the beauty giants is finding power in sustainability. This is leading to the transition of major brands prioritising their focus on making strides toward social and environmental justice. As consumers are becoming environmentally aware of the importance of sustainability this also includes their awareness and expectations on how this ethos is impacting the manufacture of cosmetics for skin and hair. Food by-products are being increasingly upcycled as raw materials by the cosmetics industry. This trend is gaining impetus as the pandemic has shaken up supply chains for cosmetic ingredients. Researchers are expecting adoption rates to rise as the cosmetics industry moves towards regional supply chains for its raw materials, as well as developing products for a circular economy. Food side streams, or food by-products, are already established as a source of natural ingredients. Some ingredients, such as palm kernel oil, are widely used in
This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information
cosmetic and personal care products. There is a greater need for such raw materials because of growing consumer demand for natural and organic personal care products. Sustainability is another major driver, with cosmetic and ingredient manufacturers making pledges to use more plant-based/natural ingredients in their formulations. At the Sustainable Cosmetic Summit, there was heightened interest in upcycled ingredients this year. The COVID-19 pandemic has disrupted the supply of natural ingredients. The collection and processing of plant materials has been affected by emergency measures introduced by state and national governments. Ingredient buyers also experienced higher transportation costs and delays because of quarantine
New brands are emerging that are positioned on their upcycled ingredients, as well as large firms like Unilever and P&G are developing zero waste systems and moving to sustainable packaging materials. Since removing waste is one of the tenants of the circular economy, upcycling presents an opportunity to such companies. The adoption rate of upcycled ingredients is expected to rise as such cosmetic firms re-formulate their products using ingredients from waste streams. Green materials, including the use of upcycled ingredients, will feature more and more in cosmetics as the world moves towards a strong emphasis on sustainability, natural and energy efficient ethos in several industry including cosmetics.
well supported by evidence-based science to improve energy levels, with ongoing studies also confirming its ability to support the skin against pigmentation – both in prevention and treatment. Jeremy Dalton from Entity was happy to share their advances in this regard. “Entity has formulated quality nutraceuticals that are created to deliver what your body naturally provides, but often experiences depletion – glutathione, being one such super-nutrient. Depletion can happen due to stress, anxiety, or even just the ageing process. However, glutathione has challenges in being delivered to the cells, especially if taken orally. However, our scientists have developed a patented method of sublingual delivery pallets. called RadianiX using this technology can bypass this challenge and deliver glutathione to the cells where it is needed. RadianiX is also TGA approved,” Jeremy confirmed. RadianiX is now available to salons and clinics to provide their clients and patients an evidence-based formulation to boost their energy and enhance skin treatment results. Looking at ingestible nutriceuticals, Fiona Tuck, skin expert and nutritional medicine practitioner has invested extensively in her VITASOL formulations that are designed to enhance energy levels and support skin treatment results.
measures at ports. The pandemic is leading many operators to consider regional, if not local, supply sources of natural ingredients. Food by-products are increasingly viewed as a sustainable source of such materials. The last 12 months has seen the launch of some notable upcycled ingredients. The French company Laboratories Expanscience has developed an active eye care ingredient from discarded avocados. It has set up a sustainable supply chain for the raw material from Peru. Givaudan recently launched Koffee’Up. Marketed as an alternative to argan oil, the upcycled ingredient is made from used coffee grounds. The ingredient has been developed in partnership with the Danish start-up Kaffe Bueno.
ARE YOU TAKING ADVANTAGE OF THE WELLNESS REVOLUTION? The emerging trend for self-care and wellness is redefining and reshaping the personal services industry to provide nutritional care that supports the wellbeing of their clients. There is now sufficient scientific evidence to step up nutritional formulations to deliver safe and efficacious evidence-based nutritional supplements through novel bioavailable means to strengthen immunity, improve energy levels and stepup skin treatment results.
“Each of our products is designed to target various skin conditions. All of our formulations are based on the concept of pure and natural wholefoods to support health. They are also rich in prebiotics to enhance gut health and support probiotic proliferation. An exciting recent study has confirmed that prebiotics can have a direct effect on reducing wrinkles, which is great news for you and your clients,” Fiona said. Nutraceutical formulas are now the new frontier in skin health and considered an essential requirement for effective skin and age-management. On-going studies also support the benefits of integrating nutritional support in the quest for better health and skin improvement.
One such nutrient is the well-known master antioxidant glutathione, which is
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DERMATOLOGY
SKIN PROTECTION
A Scientific Update for Dermatologists and Aestheticians PART II DR TIINA MEDER
IN THE PREVIOUS ISSUE OF APJ SPRING ISSUE (VOLUME 48) we featured a scientific update on skin protections and new research findings on the internal mechanisms of the skin and how the skin is impacted by cosmetic ingredients presented by Dr Tiina Meder, renowned dermatologist and formulator of Meder Beauty Science. Dr Meder presented an update on what we have learned from the Human Microbiome Project and the role of the microbiome in skin cell renewal, skin thickness and new findings in skin permeability, and the role of water in the skin. In this issue Dr Meder presents updates on the role of skin lipids, skin damage and injury, interesting findings on the dangers of excessive moisturising, the damage of cleansing solutions and the impact of pollution on the skin. THE ROLE OF SKIN LIPIDS IN SKIN HEALING Key skin lipids are indispensable when it comes to skin injury as well. Their ratio correlates with the success of immediate biological response and with effective skin restoration after an injury. As it turned out, the synthesis of key lipids launches first when the skin is damaged. In the first 30 minutes the biological response modifiers are released, among them cytokines, growth factors, histamine and some other agents, while simultaneously releasing lipids from the lamellar granules. In the next 30 minutes the synthesis of cholesterol and free fatty acids increases significantly. In just 40-45 minutes after injury, the healthy skin’s keratinous layer restores moisture levels and lipid ratio back to 90% of the norm. The synthesis of DNA and the secretion of new lamellar bodies with key lipids take up to 2–6 hours. Disturbed regeneration and skin renewal are characteristic for many skin diseases.
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CONTRIBUTING FACTORS TO SKIN DAMAGE Skin injury caused by external damaging factors can also lead to disturbances in skin restoration. Disturbed barrier function is gradually becoming more and more common around the world. In the UK for instance 25%–41% of children under 10 are diagnosed with atopic dermatitis and treated with various degrees of success. This skin condition is accompanied with the disturbance of the skin’s barrier function manifesting in the deficit of ceramides, cholesterol, free fatty acids, urea, filaggrin and a few low-weight proteins (SPRP, S100). Many factors can damage and ruin the skin’s protective barrier. The best-known damaging factor is radiation, ultraviolet radiation type A and B and X-rays. The damage caused by X-ray is often overlooked, however in the course of radiotherapy in cancer treatment, skin damage frequently occurs and it requires therapy, aimed first and foremost at the restoration of the skin’s protective properties. UV damage to the skin has been thoroughly studied and methods of skin protection are available in abundance, including various cosmetic sunscreens, rash guards and other protective clothing. Unfortunately, many people have only a vague idea of the key principles of anti-sun protection and educating our clients and patients must be an essential part of both dermatological and aesthetic consultation. Protective barrier can also be damaged by thermal action, being indoors in low humidity or outdoors in too low or too high humidity. Thermal action can quickly damage the skin, both high and low temperatures are hazardous. When air temperature increases above 30 °C – 35 °C, the capillaries dilate, water evaporation from the skin surface increases and for a few days TEWL (transepidermal water loss) intensifies as well, making the skin less moisturised and the keratinous layer less soft and pliable. With prolonged exposure to hot climate or uncomfortable temperature
indoors and subsequent damage to the skin’s protective barrier various negative changes in the skin may occur, such as increased sensitivity and persistent hyperaemia. Such skin changes often occur in professional bakers and confectioners, and in people of other trades which require staying close to a source of heat for hours on end. Low temperature can be harmful as well, and the damage is increased by both low and high humidity. People living in continental climate zones often complain about increased skin sensitivity, irritation, itching and dryness during cold months. Often during this time of year their regular nourishing, protective and moisturising products produce little effect or worse, seemingly increase the discomfort. Another cause of damage to the skin’s protective function is iatrogenic, or medically induced. Many aesthetic treatments today, for example, chemical peels, dermabrasion, various kinds of laser treatments etc, involve some degree of damage to the skin’s barrier properties. Moreover, after a treatment the skin’s sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation and other damaging factors (especially particular matters, volatile organic compounds, nitrogen oxide, sulphur dioxide and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons) increase. After any aesthetic treatment that potentially disturbs the skin barrier, it is essential to impress on the patient the necessity of thorough skin protection for a significant length of time, as the patients often presume that applying sunscreen for a few days after chemical peel is enough to compensate for the damage to their skin. THE DANGER OF EXCESSIVE MOISTURISING Further research is identifying that excessive skin moisturising can be a damaging factor as well. For the past 40 years women in industrially developed countries have been actively applying moisturising and nourishing skincare, but in the same period the rate of facial skin dermatitis has increased. One would think that the use of quality skincare should normalise the skin and reduce the number of dermatitis patients, however, as it turned out, regular use of skincare that is able to increase the amount of water in the keratinous layer and retain it there, increases water levels in both the keratinous layer and other epidermal layers, ultimately resulting in damage to the protective barrier. Excessive moisturising causes the space between lipid layers to expand (this phenomenon is known as phase separation) making the skin more permeable and susceptible to damaging factors. Generally, this skin property is used to deliver active ingredients to deeper skin layers, but when an excessively moisturising product is applied regularly, the skin becomes more porous and prone to inflammation. In recent years it has become increasingly common to cleanse the skin with emulsions, creams and oils without rinsing the product with water. Studies now show that this can lead to dehydration of the keratinous layer by over 10% within a short period of time due to abnormal desquamation of corneocytes. Furthermore, overloading the keratinous layer with occlusive substance activates inflammatory process due to the release of various proinflammatory agents, such as interleukin, tumour necrosis factor, growth factors, for example in the deep layers of the keratinous layer. This explains why the somewhat popular concept of cleaning the face without water needs to be abandoned.
development of infectious and inflammatory changes, diminishing of the skin’s ability to retain moisture and general decline of the skin’s protective function. Some ingredients, in particular sodium lauryl sulphate, which is still used in many products, destroy the lipids of the keratinous layer and damage the corneocytes. Other agents activate the release of anti-inflammatory biological response modulators, in particular interleukin and tumour necrosis factor (TNF), while also partially destroying keratinous layer lipids, which quickly brings about discomfort, redness and irritation. This is the characteristic effect of propylene glycol, retinoic acid, formaldehyde, quaternium-15, glycolic and salicylic acid. Continuous use of cleansing products containing these ingredients can disturb the regulation of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) synthesis. Matrix metalloproteinases are enzymes, including collagenases, elastases and hyaluronidase. Thus, regular and prolonged use of even moderately aggressive products can accelerate natural skin ageing and cause the premature appearance of age-related changes accompanied by irritation and hypersensitivity. THE IMPACT OF MEDICINES ON THE SKIN The skin’s barrier function can change as a result of taking some medical drugs and supplements orally. Inadequate intake of some anti-inflammatory drugs and/or antioxidants can suppress the skin’s own inflammatory reactions preventing a healthy protective response from developing and can lead to disturbances of the skin’s immune response. Such skin changes are observed with prolonged intake of ibuprofen, aspirin and naproxen. Insufficient intake of key physiological lipids with food, primarily free fatty acids and cholesterol, as well as taking statins (including doctor’s prescription), niacin or cod liver oil food supplements can cause the decrease or imbalance of lipids in the keratinous layer inevitably affecting the skin’s barrier function. Diuretic agents can also disturb the skin’s barrier function as the excretion of water can affect the skin condition. Retinoids, isotretinoin, niacin and tetracycline can, with prolonged intake, decelerate the restoration of the keratinous layer barrier function, therefore in cases when a patient is to take one of these drugs or use skincare with retinol derivatives it is advisable to avoid treatments and manipulations which imply traumatisation or damage to the skin’s integrity, including multiple injections, the use of meso-roller and similar devices. Also note that there aren’t any scientific grounds for increasing water intake to eight full glasses a day; according to research, increased water intake raises moisture levels in the dermal layer of the skin but has no effect on moisturising the epidermis. A more effective way to control moisture levels in the epidermis would be to ensure sufficient daily intake of essential physiological lipids and appropriate skincare. PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL POLLUTANTS Finally, there is a large group of damaging factors, generally known as air pollutants. These can be divided into two groups. Chemical pollutants •
Particulates (atmospheric particulate matter, particulate matter (PM), or suspended particulate matter (SPM))
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Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH)
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Volatile organic compounds (VOC)
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Tropospheric ozone
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Cigarette smoke
CLEANSERS AND BARRIER FUNCTION DAMAGE The worst culprits of skin damage, however, are cleansing solutions and soaps. The damage to the keratinous layer caused by cleansing solutions can vary depending on the ingredients of a particular product. Soaps have a pronounced irritating action due to their effect on the skin’s acid mantle as most soaps have pH 7.0 and higher. With regular use of soap for skin cleansing, the keratinous layer pH also increases leading to microbiome imbalance, the
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•
Nitrogen oxides and Sulphur oxides
Physical pollutants •
Ultraviolet radiation
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Visible light
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Infrared radiation
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Ionising radiation
All of the above affect to a lesser or larger degree the skin of people living in big cities, megalopolises and industrially polluted areas. Depending on the characteristics and the intensity of impact, as well as the skin barrier integrity, damage to the skin will vary, but the mechanics would remain similar: damage to the integrity of the skin’s protective barrier, stimulation of oxidative stress and inflammatory reactions. Particular matter is one of the most dangerous pollutants, as not only is it able to damage the skin on its own (the level of damage depends on the particle size: ultra-disperse particles and particles PM2.5 less than 2.5 μm in diameter can remain in the air longer, while larger particles PM10 10–2.5 μm settle to the ground sooner and tend to cause less damage), but it is also able to transport other pollutants, such as heavy metals, volatile organic compounds (VOC) and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH). When solid particles come in contact with the skin, they cause oxidative stress and inflammatory reactions, while also affecting live keratinocytes suppressing the synthesis of filaggrin and damaging the skin’s barrier function. The escalation of atopic dermatitis symptoms in highly polluted areas with high contents of PM in the air is an indirect confirmation of PM impact causing damage to the skin’s barrier function. Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAC) can be transported by particles or be ingested with food cooked on open fire or coals. PACs have a direct toxic effect on the skin and promote the activation of inflammatory processes. Some PACs are cancerogenic, others cause bumps on the skin similar to acne, which are in fact toxic chloracne, a systemic toxic damage where acne-like rash is just one of the symptoms. Unfortunately, dermatologists and aesthetic APJ 92
professionals cannot always differentiate this condition from acne vulgaris, wasting valuable time and undermining the success of therapy. Volatile organic compounds (VOC) is a group of agents easily evaporating even at room temperature. Among them are organic solvents, formaldehyde, benzol, toluol, ethanol, stirol, etc. VOCs are especially abundant in the air after construction works; and in large cities with intense traffic and construction they are a component of photochemical smog. With nitrogen oxides in the air, active sun radiation and lack of wind a cyclic reaction of active ozone formation occurs, quickly and intensely damaging the skin’s barrier properties and activating inflammation, primarily by enhancing cytokine synthesis. Ozone, whether occurring because of photochemical smog or tropospheric, is a powerful oxidant able to induce the oxidative stress of the skin. Its primary target is the keratinous layer, in particular lipids and unsaturated fatty acids of the keratinous layer. Ozone’s effect on the skin leads to instant drop of antioxidant levels, lipid peroxidation and the increase of malondialdehyde contents. What results is a rapid and pronounced loss of the skin’s protective properties, hyperaemia and signs of inflammation which can correlate with the symptoms of hives, eczema and contact dermatitis. Acute effect of ozone quickly reduces microbial population on the open areas of the skin; the skin’s microbiome can decrease by 50% in two hours of exposure. All these factors stimulate therapy-resisting pigmentation disorders and accelerate natural skin ageing. Ozone is also a powerful oxidant of squalene, a key component of the skin’s hydrolipid mantle, decreasing barrier properties and causing partial loss of water retention ability in the keratinous layer which manifests in dryness and discomfort. Nitrogen, sulphur and carbon oxides, occurring in the process of burning organic matter, act similarly to ozone. They too can oxidise tissue proteins and lipids, inducing the peroxidation of polyunsaturated fatty acids significantly damaging the skin’s barrier function.
Cigarette smoke is of course an ultimate pollutant as it is basically a complex aerosol made up of thousands of chemicals including active forms of oxygen, various oxides, nicotine, benzopyrene, etc. The chemical compounds of smoke increase trans-epidermal water loss, activate metalloproteinases (collagenases and elastases) and launch oxidative stress and the cross oxidation of lipids. UV DAMAGE Ultraviolet radiation and its effect on the skin are well covered in many sources. Let us just remember that the primary effect of UV spectrum A (UVA, wavelength 320–400 nm) which makes up 95% of sun radiation reaching the earth, relates to photo-ageing: the appearance of wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and sun elastosis. UVA also conditions immune suppression and increased risk of skin cancer; however, this is where UVB plays the key part (wavelength 280–300 nm). Both types of UV radiation have similar mechanics of action: they promote the formation of free radicals and induce oxidative stress, damaging proteins, lipids and DNA. For a long time, UV has been considered the only hazard of sun radiation. However, recent studies demonstrate that visible light (400–700 nm) and short-range infrared radiation (760–1440 nm), which are able to penetrate deeper than UV radiation, can also damage the skin — primarily by stimulating active form of oxygen and matrix metalloproteinases MMP-1 destroying collagen. The use of sunscreens with antioxidants significantly reduces the formation of these agents, while anti-UV only sunscreens do not have the same effect, at least where visible light is concerned.
There are several aggressive treatments that are performed to correct aesthetic skin problems, which often contribute to damaging the skin’s barrier function and delivered without adequate preparation and thought-out recovery aftercare. In these instances, the treatments often lead to disappointment, both for the patient and for the practitioner. However, this can easily be avoided following simple recommendations to restore and improve the skin’s protective properties. The use of unsuitable, poorly chosen skincare plays a part as well. As we’ve already stated, excessive moisturising can cause irritability and increase the skin’s permeability; the use of aggressive cleansers or ingredients damaging the protective elements of keratinous layer can quickly bring about dryness and other skin problems. This is precisely why it is so important to have a proper discussion with a patient and urge them to follow your expert recommendations, including the daily application of correct skincare especially following medical or professional cosmetic procedures for corrective purposes. APJ
Another important discovery is the change in composition of skin lipids occurring under the influence of UV rays (the decrease of ceramides subclass AP-2 and increase of ceramides NP-2, sodium cholesteryl sulphate and squalene) differs from composition change under the influence of visible light and infrared radiation (the increase of ceramides AP-2 and sodium cholesteryl sulphate and decrease of squalene). It has also been established that visible light stimulates skin pigmentation, especially blue spectrum light in people with dark skin tone. IN CONCLUSION Summing up, we can say that the skin’s protective barrier has more enemies than friends. It is entirely unsurprising that well protected skin is rare and found primarily in relatively young people living in clean unpolluted environment, free from smoking and other unhealthy habits, maintaining a good balanced diet and healthy level of exercise. Most people living in a large city or a polluted area, who can’t afford clean organic produce and lead a stressed urban life, are subjected to much larger or lesser degree damaged protective skin barriers. However, this doesn’t mean that the situation is hopeless. On the contrary, it is very important to realise that preserving and strengthening the skin’s protective function is the primary aim of aesthetic practitioners and dermatologists. Not only must they assess the integrity of the epidermal hydrolipid mantle, but also if they disrupt it due to invasive procedures, they must ensure they restore it though appropriate protocols as the skin’s protective properties, the integrity of the epidermal hydrolipid mantle, the state of the keratinous layer ultimately affect skin health and define the way the skin looks. Insufficient barrier function leads to pigmentation, dryness, loss of firmness and elasticity, the appearance of wrinkles and lines, and ultimately accelerates the natural process of ageing which would have been much slower under different circumstances. As noted, a major part in damaging skin protective barrier is often disturbed by medical procedures, such as traumatic treatments and manipulations “disturbing the peace” of the epidermis.
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TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS
GROWING YOUR BUSINESS: SHOULD I GO WITH WAGES OR CONTRACT OPTIONS? ONE AREA THAT COVID-19 HAS IMPACTED SALONS AND CLINICS HAS BEEN IN DETERMINING THE BEST OPTION WHEN INTRODUCING STAFF TO THEIR BUSINESS. While many are still comfortable with the traditional approach of employing staff on wages – either casual or part-time/fulltime, others are reviewing contractual arrangements. These can be further subdivided into two categories: •
Contractor who works for you under an hourly arrangement.
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Contractor who is hiring space to work for themselves.
Both of these have legal requirements by the government in terms of responsibilities and operational structure. While both have their advantages, they also have their disadvantages and introducing a third party to your business premises, whether you are engaging them, or hiring space to them will require very specific guidelines that MUST be outlined clearly in a contract or agreement.
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Key areas to consider include: • Insurance: Are you liable if something goes wrong with their work while working within your premises? If you introduce a client to them, are you liable under vicarious liability? •
What about dress code: How far can you go with ensuring they are presenting themselves in a way that is reflective of your business brand even if they are not your employees?
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Working times and days: Can they come and go as they please, or do you have the right to request that they remain in your workplace if they don’t have any bookings?
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Fees, invoicing, payment days and method of payment: These need to be clearly defined.
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Probationary period and expiration date: Will you introduce a trial period followed by a review of suitability? When will the rent or the hourly rate be paid, reviewed or re-assessed?
Protection of your intellectual property: How will you ensure that they do not access your computers, database, products or supplies? What rules do you have in place for consumables and for maintaining their works pace? While engaging someone under contract has its advantages, there are also several risks that can come with these
arrangements. Having the right Agreement/Contract in place is extremely important. For a small fee APAN can provide you with a legally drafted template that is appropriate for your situation. Additionally, we can customise your contact and review any amendments to ensure that you are fully covered. These templates are very cost effective and are worthwhile investing in them to ensure that all your bases are covered for peace of mind. Additionally, once you purchase the contact template you can re-use the master for future use. We regularly encounter businesses who had operated with a poorly drafted agreement that has omissions, leaving them open to conflict and misunderstandings. It really pays to be compliant, particularly in this space as this will ensure a smooth operating arrangement where each party is accountable for their area of responsibility. A well-drafted contact can give you peace of mind paving the way for productive and successful working arrangements. To access a list of our resource documents please visit https:// apanetwork.com/resources/resourcedocuments or phone APAN 07 55930 360 for assistance. APJ
Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome
TIPS FOR IMPROVING YOUR BUSINESS EVERYONE WHO STARTS A BUSINESS HAS A PLAN THAT INCLUDES THE NATURE OF THEIR BUSINESS, THEIR TARGET MARKET AND THEIR FINANCIAL GOALS. However, with the rapid changes we are experiencing, experts are advising that smart businesses are now required to regularly review their business model to determine what is no longer working, while also identifying new opportunities that they can take advantage of to reposition their business for sustainability and potential growth. If you are keen to review how to improve your business but are not sure where to begin, here is an overview of key steps you can take: Assess your situation Before you start making changes, it's a good idea to make sure you have a full understanding of the factors affecting your business success. These may include your current business practices, market trends or changes to the wider environment in which you operate. Tools which can help you assess your business's situation include:
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SWOT analysis: Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities and Threats. This is a well-known simple formula, but a powerful tool to help you quickly map out at a glance where things are at with your current business position. Benchmarking: Establishing benchmarks for your business allows you to measure your business's performance against similar-sized businesses in your industry. Market research: Investigate your business's current and potential client demographic to identify trends, and changes in client expectations and new demands as this is where you will discover your potential business growth opportunities. Trend analysis: While you should check out external consumer trends, do not neglect to assess your own internal review of what services are accessed the most, their return on investment and what your clients are demanding the most from you. Capitalise on this information and step it up both results you can achieve, as well as sharpen your advertising and promotional message. Conferences and Educational Webinars: These can provide useful information to help develop your business skills.
Set clear goals Business goals can be as broad or as specific as you want them to be. Writing down your goals clearly will make it easier for you to achieve them. Make sure your goals are: •
specific – state clearly what you want to achieve
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measurable – make sure you can evaluate success
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achievable – check your objective to ensure you have the time and resources to achieve them
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relevant – make sure your objectives improve profits and refine and elevate some part of your business
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timely – set a specific date for completion.
Once you have written down your goals, you should prioritise them to decide which ones to focus on first. Some goals may need to be more urgent than others. It's also important to recognise that some goals will need to be addressed with a long-term strategy as you won't be able to meet them immediately, because of resources, finances or time.
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TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS Identify strategies for achieving your goals
Write your plan in a format that suits you. It should include:
Review your goals and list the factors you think are creating your current circumstances. Think about what strategy you could use to improve the situation, such as introducing new services, refining your communication protocols, introduce a blog, refine your website, as well as attend further training or education to step up your knowledge.
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A time frame – how long a task will take to complete, as well as start and finish dates.
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Actions – state the individual actions as precisely as you can.
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Responsibilities – assign accountability for each action so
If you feel you would like the help of any external business adviser, please discuss this with your accountant or your association for further assistance. Both these sources should be able to provide you with some quality guidance. If you are an APAN member book a consultation session and discuss your plan with an expert who can offer you their professional opinion on your direction and how it measures up with their statistics and knowledge. Think realistically about what you can do yourself and where you may benefit from some support. Develop a plan for implementing your strategies To achieve your goals, you need to work out how to implement your strategies. Strategies often include several specific actions or tasks. It's a good idea to develop a plan for how you will do this.
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everyone knows precisely what you expect of them and who is responsible for ensuring the work is done. •
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Resources – list budget, staff or supplies needed to complete each action. Desired outcomes – state how you will know that the action has been completed.
When you've developed your plan, you might want to also update your overall business plan. Measure the results Establishing how you will measure the results that you want to achieve may be as simple as checking that you have completed an activity. With larger goals, you may have to establish a more complex measurement process, like increasing profit by a set percentage, or gaining a particular
number of new clients. With these types of goals, it can also be useful to set points to measure their success as you're working on them. This will help you keep your plan on track. Consider how often you want to measure your business achievements – monthly, or quarterly and of course annually. This can also help you set new goals regularly. APJ
ESTABLISHING A WINNING STRATEGY FOR CLIENT SERVICE WHILE MOST BUSINESS GOALS INVOLVE IMPROVING REVENUE that can be assessed and measured, an area that is sometimes overlooked to be refined or improved upon is the intangibles. The most important of this is staff conduct and behaviour, starting with the meet and greet approach when a client or a prospective client enters your premises. Especially in the personal services industries, how clients are greeted and addressed sets the tone of your business and impacts your brand’s identity. This should never be left to chance. All your staff should be given a protocol sheet and training on how to greet and
Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome
address your clients that enter your premises. Things to consider should include: •
Greet clients by name and with a bright smile.
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Include a welcoming statement e.g. “welcome Mary, it is so lovely to see you again”.
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Connect and acknowledge your client joyfully through eye contact. If you are working on something else, or you are on the phone, acknowledge them with a quick smile and confirm “I
Good client services should be a carefully crafted skill that requires training to perfect it. Without group training, starting with the initiation of the “meet and greet”, a client visiting your businesses may be receiving mixed messages that can leave them unimpressed or even disappointed. The human factor of quality interactions that are defined by courtesy, care and good manners are fundamental to the success of every business. These must also be reviewed and updated regularly to ensure a consistently positive experience that your clients will receive at each and every time they visit your business. APJ
will be with you shortly”. •
If you are expecting a client through a pre-booked consultation, review their treatment plan and prepare to refer to it. Always, ask how the previous treatment went.
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On their departure always thank them for visiting you and confirm their next visit.
We all have private lives to contend with both staff and clients. Some days may be good, while others may be challenging. However, every business will only grow through a consistent, joyful, positive and welcoming atmosphere that can set the tone for both staff productivity as well as initiate the client to expect a positive experience from their visit with you.
STRENGTHENING YOUR COMPETATIVE ADVANTAGE THROUGH INNOVATION SOME OF THE FASTEST GROWING BUSINESSES IN AUSTRALIA COME OUT OF THE SMALL TO MEDIUM BUSINESS SECTOR. Experts advise the importance of continuing to innovate during tough economic times to drive performance, growth and profitability when the economy improves. Winners often emerge out of recessions. They almost always beat their competitors because they have something new.
SO, WHAT IS INNOVATION? Business innovation is about creating and successfully applying new ideas within your organisation. This could be in the form of a breakthrough, such as creating and bringing a new product or service to market, or a series of smaller innovations such as finding better or more efficient ways of working and becoming more profitable. Innovation is more than simply having a good idea. Innovation is about turning new ideas and concepts into something that will create value. Value can be commercial, social or organisational.
INNOVATION IS NOT JUST ABOUT PRODUCTS Innovation can occur in any aspect of your business. The four most common types of innovation are: Product/service innovation Developing new products or services, enhancing existing products or services, and technological innovation. For example, introducing a new procedure, including a new technique that will enhance the client experience. Elements of surprise that demonstrate that you have put thought to elevate not just treatment outcomes, but also ways that can make a client feel appreciated and supported. It’s not always just about skin treatment results, it could also be about improve comfort, through a new
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TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS treatment bed to enhance relaxation and improve mood.
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Process innovation Applying an innovative approach to improve operational processes in your business, such as procedural strategies e.g. updated consultation process, introduce a relaxation protocol to enhance client comfort and stress management at the beginning of a treatment. These subtle changes can be very impacting to your clients. Marketing innovation Focus on promoting your product and services by stepping up their benefits. Make sure your marketing is not overtly focused on just sales acquisitions. Share more detail on any new research that validates how they can support in skin improvement or better health. Create new value packages that extend to better health and stress management not just skin improvement. Include a relaxation and stress management massage within your skincare packages. Launch wellness supplements or nutritional powders to elevate antioxidant benefit, better gut health or minimise inflammation and fatigue. Business model innovation Structural and/or financial model changes and innovative business expansions that branch out into new areas of independent, yet complementary services can help differentiate and sustain business growth and business profile in an industry. Here are some examples that come to mind from within our industry: •
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Issada: Originally a high-quality, mineral makeup range. The new owner Deb Farnworth-Wood purchased the company and introduced a cosmeceutical skincare line to complement the makeup as companion products using the same name. MargiFox Distributors: Added to their Environ skincare distribution business, Jane Iredale Mineral Makeup and during COVID-19 extended their brand by launching ADVANCED NUTRITION PROGRAM a premium range of supplements that support healthy skin and help enhance overall wellbeing.
ClinicalPro: Innovators in equipment technology, launched their own nutraceutical skincare and in recent times stepped up their training programs by becoming a registered training organisation. In that way they are able to prove government approved national training options allowing businesses and their staff to pursue a full qualification for the services they provide.
INNOVATION CAN BE INCREMENTAL OR RADICAL Have you ever made improvements to existing technologies, processes, products or services? This type of innovation is called incremental innovation. It's the most common form of innovation today and often produces incremental growth. A salon is purchased and the new owner evolves the business into a clinic through incrementally introducing new equipment changing their business model to attract new clients. In contrast, radical innovation entails high uncertainty with high risks, and has the potential, though no guarantees for high returns. The camera industry can be used to illustrate the difference between incremental and radical innovation. Kodak led the industry for years, developing new and improved products based on traditional film. However, these incremental innovations were all based on the same technology. Later, a radical innovation – digital imaging – revolutionised the industry and the way people capture, store and use images. Incremental and radical innovation – which approach do you use?
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Can involve high uncertainty
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Focuses on processes, products or services with unprecedented performance features
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Creates a dramatic change that can transform existing markets or industries, or create new ones
Innovation can be closed or open In your business today, you probably have access to more information that you can use. You do not have to, and should not, rely only on internal knowledge or research. You can acquire (buy or license) processes or inventions from other businesses. You can also take outside any inventions that your business is not using internally (selling or licensing them, or developing them through a joint venture) to raise additional revenue. The availability of information on the internet has been a catalyst for open innovation. In the past, most innovating businesses used closed innovation, keeping their discoveries highly secret. Closed and open innovation – which approach do you use? Closed innovation • The smart people in our field work for us •
To profit from research and development, we must discover it, develop it and ship it ourselves
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External research and development can create significant value. Internal research and development are needed to claim some portion of that value
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If we create the most and the best ideas in the industry, we will win
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We should control our intellectual property, so that our competitors cannot profit from it
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We will own all results from contract research with universities
Incremental innovation • Exploits existing technology •
Involves little uncertainty
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Focuses on cost or feature improvements in existing products, services, processes, marketing or business models
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Improves competitiveness within current markets or industries
Radical innovation • Explores new technology
Open innovation •
Not all smart people work for us. We need to work with smart people inside and outside the business
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The business that gets innovation to market first will win
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Building a better business model is
Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome
more important than getting to market first • •
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If we make the best use of internal and external ideas, we will win We should profit from others' use of our intellectual property (license out), and we should license in intellectual property belonging to others whenever it advances our business model We will partner with universities to create knowledge and encourage use outside our field
IS YOUR BUSINESS INNOVATIVE? You are probably already innovating in your business to be successful but may not have thought about it in these terms. Could your business be more innovative? Do you want to boost innovation in your business? Here are two useful tools to measure your innovation: •
Innovation readiness quiz: This quiz will help you receive a personalised report that highlights your business’s readiness for innovation and identify areas that your business may need to develop. To access it please visit the Qld Government website
www.business.qld.gov.au and search for the innovative readiness quiz in the search bar. •
Business Skill Planning: This is also a valuable tool that is available from the Qld Government website. This section will guide you through the planning phase of establishing innovative changes in your business.
In our constantly changing world it is important to remember that staying static can only lead to your deterioration in the market, so innovation is a must for those who wish to survive. As they say, business is not for the faint-hearted. APJ
HAVE YOU UPDATED YOUR CONSENT FORMS LATELY? FROM TIME TO TIME THE DEPARTMENT OF INDUSTRIAL RELATIONS AND THE AUSTRALIAN COMPETITION AND CONSUMER COMMISSION update their requirements and policies and these will require that you comply with the new rules.
policy documents that are outdated and do not meet the new regulations. Did you know that if you include a cancellation fee on your Cancellation Policy and a client does not honour their appointment, they have the right to challenge you to justify this fee? Did you know that the new rules state that if a client believes you did not apply “due care and skill” in your treatment to achieve the outcome they expected they can request a full refund of their treatment package? APAN has updated all their consent forms in compliance with recent changes. You can also request a consultation when
purchasing these documents to ensure you are clear on implementation process. To access these resource documents visit https://apanetwork.com/resources/ resource-documents or 07 5593 0360 APJ
These include your Cancellation Policies, Refund Policies as well as your Consent forms that your clients will need to read and sign. Since COVID-19 we are seeing a rising number of client conflicts because of
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SCIENTIFIC NEWS
MICRONEEDLING FOR ACNE SCARS
3D-surface scans of 55-year-old patients face before and after three treatment sessions (p. 4) All had expected erythema which was resolved. Treatment of acne scars has changed over the years, and percutaneous collagen induction has been a tool in use for some time. Over the decades, I have used ablative and non-ablative laser, microdermabrasion, chemical peels and intralesional corticosteroid injections—all effective yet with various possibilities of adverse outcomes. Microneedling has gained popularity, mainly because it does not cause thermal damage, therefore a faster regeneration, less downtime and fewer serious adverse events across a wider population. This small study of 22 patients in Spain using the Dermapen 4TM (Dermapenworld, Belrose, Australia) is the latest in showing the effectiveness of microneedling for acne scar treatment.
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NEW OBJECTIVE APPROACH CAN HELP ESTIMATE THE AGE AFTER FACELIFTING SURGERY
Circular patterned 16, 3 mm, 33-gauge needles, used at a depth of 1mm, at 120Hz. (120Hz), which was increased slowly for an endpoint of pinpoint bleeding. Each patient underwent two microneedling sessions consisting of 20 passes each, four weeks apart, which resulted in significant improvement, detailed in the study. The only adverse effect reported was one case of excessive swelling over the first 48 hours after treatment occurred, which was self-limiting and had returned to normal within 96 hours. Casabona, G., Alfertshofer, M., Kaye, K., Frank, K., Mercado-Perez, A., Hargiss, J., Green, J., & Cotofana, S. (2021). Safety and efficacy of microneedling technology in the treatment of acne scars. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 1–10. (epublished prior to print). DOI: 10.1111/ jocd.14502 Micro-traumas in the epidermis and, depending on needle length on parts of the dermis, are caused by the microneedling device leading to an increased blood flow and release of numerous growth factors, ultimately leading to fibroblast migration and collagen formation resulting in the regeneration processes in the skin. For acne scar treatment, treating only the scar as fullface needling will not help the scar that much compared to the rest of the face surface. APJ
People often have a facelift (rhytidectomy) in order to look younger, but how younger is the look postsurgery? Surgeons have always struggled with this, and it is a subjective observation, yet now objective evidence is available. I always suspected that people overestimate how much younger they look, perhaps because of the emotional and financial investment in the procedure. Artificial intelligence (AI) networks have been trained to estimate age based on facial photos, accurately predicting age in years of difference pre and post-surgery. A cohort study of 50 female patients with an average age of 58.7 years with the neural networks recognising a 4.3-year reduction in age after facelift surgery; substantially less than the 6.7-year reduction, as rated by patients themselves. Zhang, B., Chen, K., Lu, S., Nakfoor, B., Cheng, R., Gibstein, A., Tanna, N., Thorne, C., & Bradley, J. (2021). Turning Back the Clock: Artificial Intelligence Recognition of Age Reduction after FaceLift Surgery Correlates with Patient Satisfaction. Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, 148(1), 45-54. doi: 10.1097/ PRS.0000000000008020
Research and Scientific New Developments In every issue of the journal, Prof. Terry Everitt our scientific educator, conveys a few items of scientific interest. In italics, are his thoughts on the subject matter of the research study.
Surgeons have used computer data comparisons which rely more on ‘photoshop’ technology rather than science, so having this AI technique can play a valuable role in counselling patients and demonstrating successful, accurate results of facial rejuvenation procedures, which could also be used by surgeons in assessing their effects and comparing the outcomes of different techniques. APJ
Laser resurfacing is easy – the difficult part is getting a successful wound healing response. Choice of topical agents to facilitate recovery is vital, and while there are many ingredients proposed for such, not all come with evidence-based practice. This study undertook a PudMed systematic review of 17 studies of 62 found, as the number and quality of studies limited clinical data regarding agents. The review includes the following topicals: thermal spring water (TSW) conjugated linolenic acid (CLA), vitamin C/ vitamin E/ferulic acid (VCEF) serum tripeptide/hexapeptide technologycontaining products (Regenerating Skin Nectar, Restorative Neck Complex, and Ultra-nourishing Moisturiser with TriHex Technology, growth factor serum and gel, recombinant human epidermal growth factor ointment and gel red deer umbilical cord lining mesenchymal stem cell extract cream and serum silicone-based gel and microparticulate (1-3/1-6 beta-glucan) gel. See the study for the brand names of these products.
REVIEW OF POST-LASER RESURFACING AND TOPICAL AGENTS FOR IMPROVED HEALING AND APPEARANCE
Here is the direct link to the study https://jcadonline.com/post-laserresurfacing-review/ Angra, K., Lipp, M., Sekhon, S., Wu, D., & Goldman, M. (2021). Review of Post-laser-resurfacing Topical Agents for Improved Healing and Cosmesis. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 14(8), 24–32. As with all skincare use, particularly in wound healing, you need to know the science behind the ingredient, not the marketing hype. This is not easy, yet this study does help give insights into the scientific literature regarding some common ingredients beneficial.
While all showed promise for recovery, studies consulted mostly were of insufficient evidence one way or another, which prevents the researchers (all highly qualified dermatologists) from offering a solid recommendation of any particular topical. The dermatologists offer their personal post-care ingredient use – all being different.
IS PSORIASIS A LACK OF ANTIOXIDANTS? Psoriasis stimulates proinflammatory responses and chronic inflammation resulting in higher reactive oxygen forms, accumulation of Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs) and cytokines production. A cross-sectional study compared the serum levels of oxidative stress markers and antioxidant markers between those with psoriasis and control (35 in each group; 18 females and 17 males in each). Via various testing, the study found the mean levels of AGEs and
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SCIENTIFIC NEWS
Advanced Oxidation Protein Products (AOPPs) were significantly higher and antioxidant enzymes tested being lower in the psoriasis group. Higher levels of AGEs and AOPPs and lower levels of FRAP, PON1, and LCAT were significant among patients with psoriasis compared to the healthy controls. Interestingly, age and sex had no significant associations with oxidative stress or antioxidant markers between the two groups.
needs adjusting to help your treatment of this condition. APJ
FLUORESCENT COLLAGEN
Aronoff, M., Hiebert, P., Hentzen, N., Werner, S., & Wennemers, H. (2021). Imaging and targeting LOX-mediated tissue remodeling with a reactive collagen peptide. Nature Chemical Biology, 17(8), 865–871. DOI: 10.1038/ s41589-021-00830-6
Oxidative stress is suggested to play a critical role in the pathogenesis of several diseases. These findings show that an imbalance of oxidative stress and antioxidant factors contribute to the pathogenesis of psoriasis. Shakoei, S., Nakhjavani, M., Mirmiranpoor, H., Motlagh, M., Azizpour,A., & Abedini, R. (2021). The Serum Level of Oxidative Stress and Antioxidant Markers in Patients with Psoriasis. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 14(7), 38–41. The study highlighted many specific enzyme involvements including Lecithin cholesterol acyltransferase (LCAT) which removes cholesterol from the blood via lipoproteins. Paraoxonase-1 (PON1) is a hydrolytic enzyme that has various antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. Ferric-reducing ability of plasma (FRAP); an assay test that gives an index of antioxidants in biological fluids. Therefore, with your psoriasis clients, do check their antioxidant intake as no doubt
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LOX-mediated collagen cross-linking that combines a LOX-activity sensor with a collagen peptide to chemoselectively target endogenous aldehydes generated by LOX" (p 865).
Zurich researchers have developed a molecule that fluoresces where new tissue is forming in the body. Alongside helping to detect tumours, the molecule could play a significant role in researching wound healing disorders. Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body and is vital in wound healing and tumour growth. Collagen requires lysyl oxidases (LOX) enzymes, which oxidises specific sites in the collagen molecules and allows the helix formation. This new multicomponent molecule reacts with the LOX enzyme to fluoresce, thus leading to LOX activity and collagen formation. Or, as the authors state, "we present a probe for the simultaneous monitoring and targeting of
This advancement appears to be exceptionally specific in illuminating new tissue growth in the body. As we know, new tissue forms primarily at the edges of tumours as they grow; such technology could be used to show the boundaries of a tumour and growth patterns – also the boundaries of the tumour, allowing complete and precise excision of them. I can see this beneficial in investigating real-time tissue formation in general or healing disorders in patients with diabetes or other diseases. A new way to show of your post-surgery healing, by glowing in the dark. APJ
Research and Scientific New Developments In every issue of the journal, Prof. Terry Everitt our scientific educator, conveys a few items of scientific interest. In italics, are his thoughts on the subject matter of the research study.
disorders as well. However, the photodermatoses are predominantly solar urticaria and the cutaneous porphyrias, where visible light is a factor.
While most understand sunscreen, many do not understand what it protects against – only UVB, which is not sufficient. Hence the need to be talking about broad spectrum sun protection which protects against UVA also.
As the image (p. 1462) indicates, there is an inverse relationship between skin tones and the damage induced by UVR. Although darker skin is naturally better protected against UVB and UVA2, it is more prone to hyperpigmentation induced by visible light (VL) and the longer UVA1. The baseline should be using broad spectrum SPF 50+ with antioxidants (for the near infrared) as the best protection from sun protection products. Remember, a sunscreen in Australia only legally needs to protect against UVB, not UVA, so it needs a broad spectrum.
PHOTOPROTECTION ACCORDING TO SKIN PHOTOTYPE AND DERMATOSES As you are aware, different wavelength of ultraviolet light radiation requires various protection measures. Then comes the differences in prototyping and specific client skin characteristics and dermatoses. One sun protection product does not fit all and SPF is not the only factor.
As the paper concludes, “Despite the significant advances that have been made during the past decade, better protection against UVA1, VL and IRA is still required. Active compounds used topically or systemically could provide a good adjunct to filters by enhancing DNA repair, minimizing oxidative stress, decreasing inflammation or restoring skin microbiota” (p.1467). There is much confusion and fake news regarding sun protection and ingredients taken out of context. The authors of those studies specified that the results do not indicate that individuals should refrain from sunscreen, yet that is a story for another day – will be writing a whole article about that soon.
An international study released by 12 dermatological specialists gives specific advice on sun protection for 18 skin disorders and can be referred to if detailed guidance is needed. Long-wave UVA (340–400nm) plays a vital role in pigmentation, photoaging, skin cancer, DNA damage and photo-dermatoses. There is increasing evidence that visible light plays a significant role in these skin
Passeron, T., Lim, H.W., Goh, C.L., Kang, H.Y., Ly, F., Morita, A., Candiani, J., Puig, S., Schalka, S., Wei, L., Dréno, B., & Krutmann, J. (2021). Photoprotection according to skin phototype and dermatoses: practical recommendations from an expert panel. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 35(7), 1460-1469. doi.org/ 10.1111/jdv.17242
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SKIN GUT-HEALTH GETS CLOSER WITH NEW FINDINGS While much interest surrounds the gutskin connection, gut microbiome information continues to evolve. Researchers have published a paper identifying 54,118 species of virus living, using Metagenomic studies in the human gut — 92% of which were previously unknown. The great majority of these were bacteriophages, or “phages” for short. These viruses “eat” bacteria and can’t attack human cells, unlike what most people understand what viruses do. The gut microbes help digestion, yet with other vital roles, such as pathogenic bacteria protection and immune system functioning, increasing the health of other organs (i.e. skin) and even stated as helping with mental wellbeing. Samples were taken from 24 countries and found distinct differences in geographical areas, accounting for the tourist ‘gastrointestinal problems’ due to localised expansion of particular virus in specific human populations, not immediately transferrable to other locations.
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SCIENTIFIC NEWS Researchers investigated a fraction of the total gut viral diversity, so a way to go before we can manipulate specific gut microbiomes specifically for skin health – yet it is on its way. It is often said that beauty comes from within. We are getting closer to finding out precisely from within beauty comes from. Nayfach, S., Páez-Espino, D., Call, L., Low, S., Sberro, H., Ivanova, N., Proal, A., Fischbach, M., Bhatt, A., Hugenholtz, P., & Kyrpides, N. (2021). Metagenomic compendium of 189,680 DNA viruses from the human gut microbiome. Nature Microbiology, 6, 960–970. https:// doi.org/10.1038/s41564-021-00928-6 Phage therapy is where viruses are used to target bacterial pathogens in order to treat infections selectively. Such knowledge will allow customising people’s gut microbiomes using dietary interventions, probiotics, prebiotics or transpositions (faecal microbiota transplants) to improve an individual’s health. APJ
successful. Laser has been used with mixed results, positive and negative, which this study discloses. This is because the absorption spectrum for melanin is broad, ranging from 351 to 1,064 nm. Qswitched Nd: YAG frequently used with various wavelengths In this small prospective observational study, 24 females undertaking four sessions bi-weekly, with strict home care instructions. The laser used was a QS double-frequency 532-nm Nd: YAG with the maximum fluence of 2 to 2.4 J/cm2, nanosecond pulse duration with a 0-Hz repeat, and 3-mm spot size.
Double frequency 532-nm Neodymiumdoped Yttrium Aluminum Garnet Laser in the Treatment of Lip Hyperpigmentation. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology,14(7), 22–25. While of interest, I would caution the use of laser unless the operator is very experienced as to the possible adverse events. I am amazed at how many operators seem confident with such technology yet do not know what the acronym QS Nd: YAG stands for. APJ
14 (58.3%) showed moderate to excellent improvement, four (16.7%) with mild or no improvement, six (25.0%) showed worsening of their pigmentation. While not totally ideal, the results appear better than those in other studies with QS 1,064-nm Nd: YAG or diode 940 lasers in having undesirable side effects. With laser treatment, adverse outcomes
PERIORBITAL DISCOLOURATION
LIP HYPERPIGMENTATION Lip hyperpigmentation is a common cosmetic problem in darker skin phototypes that is difficult to treat due to the aetiology. Possible causative factors could be genetics, tobacco use, perioral ephelides, melanosis and drug-induced, particularly minocycline and tricyclic antidepressants. Treatment is complex and frequently not
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are expected, such as mild to moderate lip swelling, burning sensation, itching, dryness, minimal bleeding, hypopigmentation, and purpura. It appears QS 532-nm Nd: YAG can be of modest help with this lip hyperpigmentation, yet not a guaranteed result. Indication of some improvement and worsening of pigmentation (p.24) Al-Haddab, M., Alali, A., & Al-Otiabi, H. (2021). Efficacy and Safety of Q-switched
Many clients have a real issue with dark circles under the eyes (infraorbital hyperpigmentation), with the resulting ageing look. Pissaridou, Ghanem, and Lowe (2021), from a literature review, Discuss the various aetiology of the condition and suggest different treatment options. One problem with treating such a condition is the underlying cause, as it may not be a pigmentary concern. The discolouration may be from shadowing, primarily from structural changes, vascular, lifestyle factors or hyperpigmentation. Careful consultation needs to occur to determine cause to differentiate the treatment options, which are frequently undertaken for the wrong reason and provide little or no result. While you may not get into histopathology, a woods lamp or dermoscopy is essential. Topical creams
Research and Scientific New Developments In every issue of the journal, Prof. Terry Everitt our scientific educator, conveys a few items of scientific interest. In italics, are his thoughts on the subject matter of the research study.
are helpful; however, more evasive modalities are required. My personal favourite is chemical peels; however, great care is required as adverse outcomes can be problematic. Q-switched Ruby Laser (694 nm) is applicable, yet better perhaps is the Picosecond 755-nm Alexandrite Laser.
Personally, I would not go in with ablative resurfacing, but fractional Er: YAG, rather than CO2, is recommended or IPL with smaller spot sizing. If the cause is structural, none of these modalities will be successful, and injections are needed. An additional study on the same topic (Goldman, Goldust, & Wollina, 2021) outlines their treatment of 76 patients. Ultimately, as is often the case, treatment success is determined by the consultation information. infraorbital discolouration with vascular imaging filter before (2A) and after (2B) low fluence Nd Yag laser 3 treatments (p. 5) Pissaridou, M., Ghanem, A., & Lowe, N. (2021): Periorbital Discolouration Diagnosis and Treatment: EvidenceBased Review, Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 22(6-8), 217-225. DOI:10.1080/14764172.2021.1899238. Goldman, A., Goldust, M., & Wollina, U. (2021). Periorbital Hyperpigmentation— Dark Circles under the Eyes; Treatment Suggestions and Combining Procedures. Cosmetics, 8(26). https://doi.org/ 10.3390/cosmetics8020026
As I have mentioned above, the consultation to determine causative factors of the condition is essential as it may not be a pigmentary concern yet appears as such. It may be a sequela of Atopic dermatitis or, in rare cases, a drug reaction. If using lightbased treatment, identification of the chromophore is critical -melanin or haemoglobin. APJ
Antiplatelet effect and increased risk of haemorrhagic stroke reported for Vitamin E/alpha-tocopherol; Selenium providing lesions of the skin and nervous system, nausea, diarrhoea, fatigue, mood irritability and hair and nail loss.
DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS NOT SO HARMLESS
pruritus, hypotension and toxic cystoid macular oedema (although all may be reversible).
Dietary supplements are the most common type of complementary medicine in Australia, with vitamins and minerals are particularly popular. Unfortunately many take these to treat disease rather than augment their diet. Many also think they are harmless; however, not so.
Manufacturers need to make the risks of dietary supplements known; however, as they are not required to do so, they do not.
As with many medicines, such supplements can be potentially harmful as they do not need extensive documentation about safety or effectiveness in getting an Australian listing. The public thinks that having an Aust L number, they have been tested for efficacy and benefit, which is not the case. If so, they would carry an Aust R number being a regulated substance.
Vitamin B3 /niacin/nicotinic acid can produce skin flushing, burning sensation,
Moses, G. (2021). The safety of commonly used vitamins and minerals. Australian Prescriber, 10(44), 119-123. https://doi.org/10.18773/ austprescr.2021.029 Careful consultation is needed every time you see a client. They may be overdosing without knowing so due to the combined effect of different substances under different names, leading to a toxic load of the same ingredient. APJ
Retinol has acute toxicity associated with ingestion >300,000 IU. The genuine concern is chronic toxicity (hypervitaminosis) associated with doses >10,000 IU/day from various ingested and topical sources combined.
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SOCIAL MEDIA
HOW TO CREATE CONTENT THAT CONVERTS
The Five Step Guide Trish Hammond – The Pink Box
DO YOU LOVE INSTAGRAM? Of course, you do and why not? The IG community is creative and engaged, both of which are especially good for your brand. And engagement on Instagram is superior to engagement on other channels. Most marketers know that consistent, high-quality contentcreation is the key to brand growth. But constantly creating incredible content isn’t easy and it doesn’t happen without guidelines to make sure that you colour in between the lines.
Here are some areas to consider: MOBILE-FRIENDLY CONTENT •
Structure: Avoid creating captions in one huge paragraph: Use line breaks or emojis to break your paragraphs.
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Share: the value of the main topic.
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Bridge: the hype should be about giving solutions to their pain point.
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CTA: As much as possible have two calls to actions (CTAs). One should be for short term and the second is for long term. Examples: Short term: Direct Message (DM) me if you agree. Long term: Ready to take action? Click the link and let’s build the business of your dreams.
Here are the elements of highly converting content: KEEPING THE AUDIENCE INTENT What’s Audience Intent, you ask? It is the reason why someone conducts a specific search. It is normal to assume that when you do a search, it is always for one purpose - and this is true most of the time. However, sometimes people conduct a search when they don’t actually know what they want to find, this happens more often than you think. WHO YOU HELP AND HOW? As a marketer, you never want to write content because you feel like you have to. You wouldn’t go to work if you “had to”, so don’t do content marketing the same way. Instead, understand the problem your audience has and provide content that solves their problem. Here is what you should consider: •
To gain more followers: Tell them what transformation they can expect.
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To increase sales: How does your solution bring them to their goals?
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To gain clients: What benefits they will see?
CREATE CAPTIVATING HEADLINES OR HOOKS Keep in mind that you should have a grabbing headline to get attention. The first 120 characters matter to your Instagram Caption.
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IMAGE AND KEYWORD RESEARCH OPTIMISATION ALT tags are an oft-overlooked SEO factor – but it is best to add alt tags to all your images. Google states that when choosing all text, focus on creating useful, information-rich content that uses keywords appropriately and is in context of the content of the page. Choosing the right keywords for your content is a balancing act. If you select too broad of a keyword, your content will be seen as unhelpful by your audience. But selecting too specific a keyword might lead to poor search ratings. Fortunately, there is a better way that doesn’t involve hours of aimless searching. You can use “Keywords Everywhere” added to your Chrome. Content pillars, social media strategies, simplified digital marketing strategies, whatever you call them, they need to work from a solid foundation when it comes to your content. Each pillar, or any other general element, should define the high converting content you can create. APJ If you need help, feel free to DM us @thepinkroom.com.au or book your FREE Discovery Call today for Social Media Marketing assistance. Ph 0438 699 833.
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