APJ Vol 47 2021

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SKINCARE WITH AN ATTITUDE A TESTIMONIAL “I am extremely passionate about MEDER. In the 20 years that I have been in the beauty industry, it is the first skincare range that truly resonates with me. I love that it is science-based, results-driven, restores the skin's microbiome, is Pre & Probio�c, ethically sourced and packaged, and created by an incredibly intelligent woman. How could I not love this range!

I personally use all of the products, and I have seen such great results with my own skin, not to men�on I have been achieving outstanding results with my clients. There is no be�er feeling than to see people regain their confidence because their skin is healthy.

And that is thanks to MEDER!” Mia Bella Advanced Skin & Beauty Sunshine Coast

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THE TRUSTED BRAND FOR PROFESSIONAL, ADVANCED AND TARGETED SKIN THERAPY RESULTS Manufactured in Switzerland under the highest quality-assured standards.

CLINICALLY PROVEN PRE & PROBIOTIC FORMULATIONS Meder Beauty Science offers 6 easily marketable professional treatments to provide solu�ons for the most skin concerns.

The combina�on of organic plant extracts and the latest biotech ingredients make Meder Beauty Science one of the few truly effec�ve clinically proven cosmeceu�cal brands in the global market.

MEDER BEAUTY SCIENCE guarantees you excellence in treatment outcomes.

0466 338 844

admin@mederbeautyscience.com.au

mederbeautyscience.com.au

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IN THIS ISSUE WINTER VOLUME 47. 2021 REGULATIONS, STANDARDS AND EDUCATION

72

64-67

90-91

WHY WE NEED TO RETURN TO TACTILE SERVICES

AYURVEDIC DERMATOLOGY

72-73

94-96

ARE YOU GUILTY OF MISLEADING ‘BEFORE AND AFTER’ PHOTOS?

UPDATE OF THE REGULATORY PROCESS FOR BODY ART AND COSMETIC TATTOO INKS

78-80

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 28-31

52-55

GLYCATION: A NEW UNDERSTANDING & EFFECTIVE TREATMENTS

OPTIMISING COLLAGEN & ELASTIN INTEGRITY

32-34 ARE THERE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN MALE AND FEMALE SKIN?

36-37 EDELWEISS: DEFYING RESILIENCE FOR SURVIVAL

44-45 DIVERSITY IN SKINCARE WHAT DOES IT MEAN?

WHEN LOCKDOWN LOOMS, AT-HOME BEAUTY TAKES OVER

NEW HEALTH REGULATION FOR COSMETIC NURSES

44

82-83 NEW ADVANCES IN CONTEMPORARY ELECTROLYSIS

60-61 INNOVATIVE WAYS TO USE BERGAMOT OIL FOR MIND, SKIN AND BODY

92-96 BEAUTY BOTANICALS

INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS, PRODUCTS AND COSMETIC MEDICINE

106

18-20

106

AGEING LIPS AND TREATMENT OPTIONS

HEALTH & BUSINESS PROGAM

68-70

98-103

AESTHETIC BULLETIN

SCIENTIFIC NEWS

74-77 PRODUCT INNOVATIONS

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97

60

BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 14-15

51

WOMEN WHO CHANGED THE WORLD

BUSINESS WISDOM

35

58-50

NON-SURGICAL SYMPOSIUM

THE CEO THAT IS DRIVING CHANGE THROUGH A UNIQUE BUSINESS MODEL

40

84-89

SOCIAL MEDIA DURING PANDEMICS

48-50 GAINING THE WINNING MIDSET TO SUCCEED IN A CHANGING WORLD

TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS

Editor Dr Giulia D’Anna (07) 5593 0360 editor@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com

Printed For Aesthe�cs Prac��oners Advisory Network ACN: 136 987 169 ABN: 25 136 987 169

Typese�ng & Graphics Angus Thompson Amy Dylko TEV Group Pty Ltd

Accounts Payable Aesthe�cs Prac��oners Advisory Network PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre QLD 4218

Adver�sing & Marke�ng Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com Fax:(07) 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Aesthe�cs Prac��oners Advisory Network PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre QLD 4218 Australia Publisher TEV Group Pty Ltd Design & Produc�on Artwork and Editorial TEV Group Pty Ltd Unit 7D 76-84 Robina Town Centre Drive, Robina QLD 4226 Australia Phone: (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com Mobile: 0412 177 423

Journal Advisory Board Terry Everi� - Educa�on Features Wendy Neely - PR and Marke�ng Dr Douglas Grose - Scien�fic Content

Na�onal Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everi� Chris Testa Gill Fish Carole Jackson Julia Grinberg ISSN: 1836-9812 Pint Post Approved [100000257] Circula�on 6900

18 Front Cover NEOGENESIS Karen Playel + 61 452 449 045 info@neogenesis.com www.neogenesis.com For further informa�on see pages 10-13, 76-77.

The Aesthe�cs Prac��oners Journal is the official publica�on of the Aesthe�cs Prac��oners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisa�on established to service the needs of the aesthe�cs industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthe�cs Prac��oners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on be�er business prac�ces and industry advancements. All editorials and ar�cles that are submi�ed for publishing remain the property of Aesthe�cs Prac��oners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduc�on in part or in whole is not permi�ed without prior wri�en authorisa�on by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scien�fic and technical informa�on presented is as accurate as possible at the �me of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommenda�ons.

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Dr Giulia D’Anna

EDITOR’S LETTER I am wri�ng this editor’s le�er from whatever day of isola�on it now is. I am sure that for many of us in the country, we have “iso-fa�gue”. But even though we might all be going through different emo�ons on a daily (or maybe hourly) basis, I must admit that I have found the lockdown has provided me with some �me to get things done.

Since last year, I created a list of things that I will do when I have �me. During normal business hours and func�on, this list just sits there and accumulated. During lockdown, I get it done! I have undertaken so many different educa�on courses, it might be called an addic�on, but one I am very happy to admit.

The APAN conference fuelled this educa�on desire of mine quite beau�fully. The APAN conference is one I always look forward to. The way our CEO Tina Viney has put it together, is truly amazing as it caters for everyone around the country. Those in lockdown can binge-watch it. Those s�ll working their usual hours, have 30 days to go back, watch and revise. Truly revolu�onary compared to most other online events which come and go so quickly. Thank you Tina!

This issue is packed again with lots of inspiring ar�cles and informa�on. This �me we have pulled together some really interes�ng pieces about skincare ingredients, COVID-19 strategies and some informa�ve business ar�cles. I have wri�en a piece on one of my passions, which is around the lips, and what happens through the ageing process. It would be so lovely to hear from you and tell me what you think.

So, stay posi�ve and bright. We are all in this together. Here in Melbourne, we are so used to the hard lockdown, that I know ‘we got this’. Any�me you need support or just someone to talk to, reach out. Both myself, and APAN are here any�me you need us.

Un�l we meet.

editor@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com

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APJ Contributers

Terry Everitt

Katherine McCann

Gay Wardle

Terry Everi� is regarded as a ‘Master Skincare Professional’ due to his extensive knowledge in the art and science of skincare. A very competent educator and regular lecturer on aesthe�c and medical conferences where he presents up-to-date informa�on from an evidence-based scien�fic perspec�ve. Terry is the Director of Aesthe�c Educators Pty Ltd.

Katherine McCann has moved to her new dual posi�on within APAN. Her new �tle will now be Regula�ons and Standards Advisor and Press and Media Liaison.

Addi�onally, Katherine will con�nue to contribute to APJ through ar�cles on Cosme�c Ta�ooing as this is an area in which she is truly an expert.

Gay Wardle is a well-known mul�awarding winning industry expert and a renowned lecturer who conducts advanced skin analysis training for businesses and their staff on all issue pertaining to skin science.

aesthe�ceducators@gmail.com.

Jacine GreenwoodDrummond Jacine Greenwood is an interna�onally recognised educator who is known within the industry for her up-to-date knowledge and her ability to deliver training in an easy to understand method. Jacine holds six Diplomas, including a Diploma of Cosme�c Chemistry and a Bachelor of Nursing. Her knowledge is highly respected in the cosme�c industry. With over 22 years experience in the industry and a background of cosme�c formula�on, Jacine has an immense knowledge of current trends in research and new developments in the industry.

0418 708 455 gay@gaywardle.com.au.

0405 069 311 k_mccann@me.com

Deb Farnworth-Wood

Trish Hammond

We are delighted to welcome Deb Farnworth-Wood as our new business expert. Deb will be sharing her wealth of knowledge in each issue of APJ.Her column - Wisdom in Business will present valuable, business-boos�ng �ps. Deb is a leading figurehead and business development expert with amazing achievements, also within our industry.

She has an incredible reputa�on as a serial entrepreneur. Expect to gain winning strategies from this amazing woman.

Trish Hammond is an award-winning blog and social media expert and the director of Plas�c Surgery Hub. She is renowned for her skilful wri�ng and interviews in all facets of the social media space. Her company specialises in the Aesthe�cs, Cosme�c Surgery and Cosme�c Medicine industry sectors for which she provides personalised and comprehensive services to help businesses communicate powerfully, grow their brand and capture new clients and pa�ents.

deb@ul�mateskinandbody.com.au

0429 264 811 info@plas�csurgeryhub.com.au.

07 3807 1429 jacine@roccoco.com.au.

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CEO REPORT

Tina Viney APAN CEO

Dear colleagues and friends, WE ARE WELL AND TRULY INTO WINTER, and it has been a challenging month as several ci�es have been impacted with COVID-19 lockdowns. However, may I encourage you all to stay strong and con�nue to look at how you can move forward and stay true to your dreams.

We regularly receive calls from despondent members who are feeling somewhat overwhelmed and insecure. However, a�er speaking with many business owners and exploring their op�ons, we are ALWAYS able to iden�fy a strategy that perhaps was never considered that will help them to move forward with renewed hope. It thrills me to hear a level of confidence return in their voice as they explore a new approach.

IS YOUR GLASS HALF FULL OR HALF EMPTY? It is indeed incredible that despite the current chao�c disrup�ons we are experiencing new opportuni�es for businesses to grow con�nue to surface.

Even in this issue of APJ you will find several new companies that are excited about suppor�ng businesses and clinics to achieve ongoing business success. They cover both new advances in nutri�onal supplements, as well as topical formula�ons with a stronger focus on managing inflamma�on, restoring the skin’s microbiome and immunity, and accelera�ng healing in trauma�sed skin.

Also, many of our regular companies that support us are con�nuing to innovate with new product and equipment developments, please reach out to them and allow them to support you in refining what you are currently doing and step-up your services and your results. You will find them in this issue of APJ Journal.

The other day I was thinking about the lockdowns and the dynamics that are impac�ng us all during these disrup�ons and I would have to say that the biggest enemy is ul�mately within, and

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it’s called FEAR. When you really think about it, there are 365 days in a year. The lockdowns are o�en one to two weeks with the maximum being 60-90 days. Rather than focusing on what business you will lose during these days, why not focus on how you are going to make the rest of the year successful? Explore ways to make up for the temporary losses. This is not a pipe dream, it is an absolute possibility, we have seen it happen to so many salons and clinics �me and �me again. Make sure you are one of the survivors – you owe it to yourself and your clients.

Having said that APAN is relentlessly commi�ed to dialogues with the government about the danger and risks of lockdowns to businesses, as they are not sustainable and alterna�ve solu�ons are urgently needed. We are also working collabora�vely with other organisa�ons in this effort.

NEW MENTAL HEALTH AND BUSINESS PROGRAM There has never been a more important �me to guard our mind and our thoughts. This is a �mely season to strengthen your skillset on mental and emo�onal agility and embrace new ways of rela�ng to others and doing business. It will not only help you gain the strength to overcome the current challenges, it will allow you to also develop mental stamina to face the future, whatever it brings.

As we explore and review the needs of the industry, we are constantly seeking ways to stand with you and support you in your personal and professional journey, whether you are a prac��oner working for others, or a business owner. At this �me your needs may be diverse, but they are also universal. While technically you are constantly seeking ways to con�nue to improve your skills, you also need to invest in appropriate tools to help your mental and emo�onal wellbeing, and at this �me you need a tailored program that addresses three key areas: •

Personal resilience: mastering your thoughts

•

Communica�on: Improving your communica�on and rela�onships with others

“Where there is division there is weakness, but where there is unity there is strength.”

- Helen Bryce •

New business strategies: Gaining new business skills to address today’s challenges.

REGULATIONS This year is shaping up to be the year of regula�ons.

APAN is o�en referred to as the forerunner when it comes to industry innova�ons, and for several months now, at the top of our list has been to develop a mental health and business survival program that was not generic, but designed specifically around the needs that we are iden�fying through our regular interac�on with the industry.

TATTOO PIGMENT REGULATIONS: We are currently working with the Queensland Health in the ongoing review of regula�ng ta�oo pigment/ink safety. At the �me of wri�ng of this journal I can confirm we have a scheduled mee�ng with the Queensland Health Minister’s office on 26th August as discussions con�nue.

You will find more details on this ini�a�ve on pages 94-96.

While we reviewed several exis�ng programs we were not convinced they were specific enough for our industry. A�er extensive research we iden�fied the person that we believe would be able to customise a program specifically for our industry.

QLD UPDATES ITS LASER AND IPL REGULATIONS: This included a review of both licences and standards.

This individual was referred to us by a member of our Advisory Council and has impressive qualifica�ons and creden�als in the area of Human Resource Management and Mental Health.

Over the past few months, we have been working with their company to design a 12-unit program that can be incrementally undertaken to help you gain incredible skills in improving mental and emo�onal health, agility, improve communica�on skills with others and gain the mindset to help move forward with your business.

The cross-over of behavioural, personal, and business development are the perfect skillset that we believe will benefit every business owner to achieve tangible support and advance skills to transform their current challenges into opportuni�es. We an�cipate that the first few units will be available by the end of August/September. We truly believe that everyone will be able to benefit from this program. We will make it affordable, so it is accessible to all. Please see pages 106 for further details and register your expression of interest. We know you will love it and it will provide you with incredible benefits.

TGA DEVICE REFORMS: Addi�onally, we have had an extensive mee�ng with the TGA in Canberra as they are reviewing the need for Device Reforms with a consulta�on that was circulated earlier this month. They are currently going through a process of amending Australia’s medical devices regula�ons. The proposed refinements of the regula�on are for medical devices such as lasers and IPLs that also introduce substances into the human body via a body orifice or applied to the skin.

NSW: NEW HEALTH REGULATIONS FOR COSMETIC NURSES: These will introduce some more stringent measures and will commence 1st September 2021 (see page 97).

I wish to also report that our online conference was a great success and we received excellent feedback. Let’s believe that in 2022 it will be feasible to conduct a face-to-face conference as we are also looking forward to mee�ng with many of you again.

Please note that your feedback is cri�cal to us as we navigate the best possible ways to support you. To our wonderful members, our sincere thanks and gra�tude for your on-going support as you allow us to con�nue to serve you.

United we stand.

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COVER STORY

INTRODUCING A NEW SCIENTIFIC BREAKTHROUGH

NeoGenesis launches Adult Skin Stem Cell Technology (S2RM®) Molecules from Mul�ple Tissue Specific Stem Cells

WHILE THE WORLD IS EXPERIENCING ON-GOING DISRUPTIONS, scien�sts con�nue to inves�gate ways of providing us with hope towards a be�er world through their specific areas of research.

In the area of skincare, NeoGenesis is taking the lead, achieving an incredible breakthrough u�lising specific adult skin stem cell patented technology (S²RM®). This skincare range was recently launched in Australia, bringing new hope in treatment outcomes for three specific areas of need: •

An�-ageing: skin renewal and rejuvena�on

•

Inflamed skin: eczema, psoriasis, acne, reac�ve/sensi�ve skin

•

Trauma�sed skin: Post invasive and non-invasive treatments and oncology related burns treatments

While skincare and wound healing products with varying ingredients abound in the marketplace, stem cells and the molecules that they express, or release, are rapidly emerging o�en with li�le or no regulatory oversight, or robust scien�fic valida�on.

Specifically, confusion exists amongst doctors, skincare professionals and end-users about the stem cell types, their molecules, and the use of both cells and molecules in formula�ng topical and injectable products. Efficacious topical products can be a great preventa�ve strategy for ageing skin and its associated afflic�ons, but which ones are scien�fically validated?

ABOUT DR. GREG MAGUIRE NeoGenesis skincare formula�ons are based on robust evidencebased science and are developed to deliver safe, fast, and efficacious treatment outcomes. Their co-founder and Chief Scien�fic Officer Greg Maguire Ph.D. is a renowned scien�st with impressive creden�als from various universi�es.

In brief, Dr. Maguire pursued his graduate training at the University of California, Berkeley, University of Houston,

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University of Texas, The Marine Biological Labs, Woods Hole, MA, and Cold Spring Harbor Laboratory, NY. He is a former professor of neuroscience and ophthalmology at the University of California, San Diego School of Medicine (UCSD), a visi�ng associate professor of physiology at Keio University School of Medicine in Tokyo, Japan, visi�ng assistant professor of molecular neurobiology at the University of Washington, and a visi�ng scien�st at Massachuse�s General Hospital (MGH), at Harvard University.

Dr. Maguire was awarded a pres�gious Fulbright-Fogarty Fellowship from the Na�onal Ins�tutes of Health (NIH). He managed his NIH funded laboratory at UCSD, studying �ssue degenera�on and regenera�on, and the role of stem cell released molecules (SRM). Dr Maguire was mentored by Dr. John Bertrand Gurdon, Ph.D., a professor of developmental biology at Cambridge University, who was awarded a Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine in 2012 for his pioneering work in stem cells.

Through Dr Gurdon Dr. Greg Maguire learned the techniques of nuclear transfer, and the transla�on of microinjected messenger RNA molecules in oocytes to analyse DNA to RNA and for protein synthesis. These studies resulted in the development of S²RM® technology on which NeoGenesis is based.

So, what is the science behind the NeoGenesis formula�ons and what is the significance of S²RM® technology? To understand this, we first need to review the method of stem cell harves�ng and gain an understanding of the important role of stem cell released molecules.

Model: Catherine Roberts © Joseph Bogges

STEM CELL HARVESTING: HOW IT’S DONE NeoGenesis harvests mul�ple human stem cell types from healthy adults who have donated skin �ssue voluntarily through cer�fied �ssue banks in the United States. This process is highly regulated by the FDA and other regulatory agencies. These “skin resident” stem cells are sourced from the dermal and hypodermal layers of the skin. The molecules that are released from these stem cells have naturally evolved to support the repair and regenera�on processes in our skin throughout our lives. The collec�on of molecules from the stem cells contains no gene�c material and are composed mostly of a variety of proteins needed to maintain and heal the skin’s structure and func�on.

STEM CELL RELEASED MOLECULES: WHY THEY ARE EFFECTIVE NeoGenesis uses a patented technology called Stem Cell Released Molecules (SRM). The term S²RM® is used to show that two or more types of skin resident stem cell lines are needed for skin repair and regenera�on. This technology mimics the healing process that takes place in our bodies naturally, by simply returning to the damaged �ssue the molecules that were present in greater abundance when the skin was young and healthy.

Instead of subjec�ng the stem cells to crushing and chemical extrac�on methods to collect a sub-op�mal and damaged (Lee et al, 2017) set of molecules, or adding in non-skin resident an�oxidants, pep�des, and growth factors in the lab, NeoGenesis uses the full and natural complement of molecules released, not extracted, from the stem cells that already encompass all of those na�ve proper�es known to maintain and heal the skin by replacing what you’ve lost over �me.

Equally important, the SRM helps to build the stem cell niche of the skin, which has been found to maintain the stem cells resident in the skin in a less aged state (Ge et al, 2020).

PATENTED TECHNOLOGY: ETHICALLY DERIVED STEM CELLS Using the correct set of adult stem cell types that are resident in the skin (not stem cells from other parts of the body that serve func�ons other than to maintain and heal the skin) is the key to the NeoGenesis technology. This concept is called “�ssue specific stemFuchs and Blau, 2020). This means that scien�sts iden�fy and u�lise the correct stem cell types that are na�ve to the skin to op�mally repair and regenerate skin �ssue.

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NeoGenesis stem cells are ethically derived from healthy adult �ssue dona�ons, a process highly regulated through the FDA, to support a natural approach to healing; therefore, they do not use embryonic, bone marrow, or plant-derived stem cells. For example, research shows that bone marrow stem cells in skincare may cause rapid, but limited improvements in the skin at first, but with prolonged use, can cause an over prolifera�on of cells that may lead to accelerated ageing, increased inflamma�on, and even cancerous development (Maguire, 2019).

NeoGenesis products are abundant in the molecules that the skin already naturally produces, but have diminished in quality and numbers through ageing, disease, or environmental factors. This methodology (Maguire, 2014) provides a natural approach to healing called “systems therapeu�cs” where we simply return to the damaged �ssue the many molecule types that were present when it was healthy. And because we use the many molecules that are na�ve to the skin to return the skin’s physiology back to a normal state, we can achieve very efficacious and safe outcomes using the S²RM® technology (Maguire, 2019A). This is called “systems therapeu�cs for physiological renormalisa�on” (Maguire and Friedman, 2019).

THE MECHANISM OF THE ACTION AND THE ROLE OF EXOSOMES The efficacy of the NeoGenesis serums and moisturisers is derived from their patented S²RM® technology, where they use skin resident adult human stem cells to produce molecules that are then protected and delivered by exosomes. Exosomes are smart nanospheres (similar to liposomes, but operate more efficiently), with an innate ability to easily diffuse through �ssues, seek out target cells, and pass the brain-blood barrier (Maguire, 2016). The lipid bilayer of the exosome contains transmembrane proteins with a variety of external pep�de sequences, and number polysaccharides and proteins on the outer layer that also help to impart smart behaviour to the liposome-like structure of the exosome, this makes the exosome more func�onal than its manmade counterpart, the liposome. Addi�onally, given their unique lipidome, exosomes are more pliable than liposomes and can therefore more easily squeeze through small passages in the skin.

THE POWER OF EXOSOMES The exosome is part of a mul�-fold mechanism of ac�on in the skin whereby one exosome can deliver 20,000 proteins to a site (Maguire, 2016), all arriving together and focused on repair of the damaged area. This is vastly different and far more effec�ve than delivering 20,000 proteins randomly, without focus, arriving at different �mes and loca�ons. Without exosome delivery, randomly diffusing the proteins in this way, repair is also more random and less complete. The natural pep�de sequences found with the exosome along with number polysaccharides and proteins on the outer layer would also be missing without the presence of the exosome.

NEXT GENERATION STEM CELL SCIENCE™ It is the patented S²RM® technology found in many NeoGenesis products that creates superior repair and maintenance of the skin as it ages, or becomes damaged. By delivering the needed blend of proteins for repair, NeoGenesis is able to quell inflamma�on and provide the skin with the nutrients it needs to func�on as it did when it was young and healthy.

Exosomes are naturally produced in great quan��es by human stem cells in the body and when the correct steps are carefully taken to process human stem cells in the laboratory, the same quality and quan�ty of molecules is produced in the lab as it is in the body. NeoGenesis produces the full complement of molecules and exosomes for superior delivery and bioavailability, bringing damaged �ssue back to a state of homeostasis.

Technologically inferior and less expensive extrac�on processing

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are used by several companies for their stem cell molecules, as opposed to the more advanced and expensive release technology used at NeoGenesis, yielding molecules that may not be fully formed and not packaged into the exosome delivery system.

REMODELLING NEW AND OLD SCARS NeoGenesis S²RM® technology provides the proteins (molecules) needed to heal the �ssue (collagen and other matrix proteins) to mi�gate scars from forming (Maguire, 2019). As healing �ssue is constantly rebuilding, they con�nue to provide those proteins for normal, not scarred, healing. There will be a por�on of the damaged collagen that does not remodel. In this case, you are le� with what you have. Some of the damaged collagen remains.

Therefore, NeoGenesis products provide the proteins needed to remodel damaged collagen for more complete and natural healing, but not all collagen, will remodel. In the womb, scarless healing takes place in a sterile environment. Once someone is out in the world, it is a very dirty environment that creates the need of a quick and rapid prolifera�on of collagen to close the wound quickly. Flawless healing is not a considera�on by the body, only quickly closing a wound for protec�on from the pathogens, an�gens and toxins impinging on the wound bed. Older scars are showing us the part of the collagen that could not be remodelled however an improvement can o�en be shown in older scars.

Using S²RM® technology, NeoGenesis products used in conjunc�on with professional treatments such as microneedling, may have a posi�ve effect by pu�ng the scar back into healing mode and remodelling any collagen that may be healed more normally.

RESTORING HOMEOSTASIS THAT RESULTS IN SKIN REPAIR NeoGenesis products can treat a wide variety of condi�ons by supplying the molecules (proteins) needed to strengthen the �ssue and bring it back into balance. When the �ssue is in balance (homeostasis), it is far less likely to result in the symptoms of inflamma�on, severe dryness, itching, blistering, pain, or skin damage from ageing or acne. Crea�ng homeostasis in the skin therefore results in an improvement in appearance and symptoms such as ageing skin, acne, rosacea, eczema, psoriasis, cold sores and shingles.

NeoGenesis Recovery serum has been shown to reduce the burning, blistering, darkening of the skin and pain associated with cancer treatments. When applied to injuries to the skin, such as small cuts, abrasions and burns, the skin heals quickly and in most cases, without leaving a scar. Bruises have been shown to dissipate more quickly when NeoGenesis serums are applied.

Because the S²RM® technology is natural to the skin, it is a very gentle approach to skin condi�ons for even the most sensi�ve skin. APJ

LET NEOGENESIS HELP YOU TAKE YOUR RESULTS TO THE NEXT LEVEL.

THE NEOGENESIS PROMISE The NeoGenesis system comprises of a unique and highly effec�ve product range that is completely safe, non-toxic, and works to op�mise and restore the skin’s own homeostasis. These products are perfectly paired to deliver successful pre and post treatment care.

Using their patented S²RM® technology NeoGenesis products provide targeted and efficacious result for a variety of skincare needs, even the most challenging. They support the skin to achieve transforma�on by providing the molecules and nutrients that help the skin heal and repair more rapidly.

NEOGENESIS SKINCARE PRODUCTS COME WITH 100% GUARANTEE

Karen Playel 0452 449 045 info@neogenesis.com www.neogenesis.com

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BUSINESS

THIS YEAR, IN CELEBRATION OF INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY we decided to feature in every issue of APJ the life of an inspira�onal woman who impacted the world through their courage and incredible contribu�on. In the previous issue we featured Florence Nigh�ngale as the amazing force that contributed to nursing becoming a respected profession. In this issue we are featuring the illustrious life of Estée Lauder who shaped the cosme�c world.

Estée Lauder, the founder of the company that bears her name, was a visionary and a role model. She was a challenger who proved that anything was possible — if you dared to dream it and had the guts and gump�on to go for it. Ahead of her �me in every way, she created and ran one of the world’s most pres�gious and innova�ve skincare companies while serving as a wife, mother and a loyal friend to many. And she did it all with charm, humour and exquisite style. She loved beauty with a passion and believed wholeheartedly in its power.

Born in 1906, Josephine Esther Mentzer, Estée Lauder was raised in Queens, New York, by her Hungarian mother, Rose, and Czech father, Max. The name Estée was a varia�on of her nickname, Esty.

Her interest in beauty was sparked in high school when her Hungarian uncle came to live with her family and created velvety skin creams, first in the kitchen, then in a laboratory in a stable out back. From her uncle, Estée not only learned how to concoct the wonderful creams, but also how to apply them to women’s faces.

HER PERSONAL LIFE In the late 1920s, Estée met Joseph Lauter when she was in her early 20s. On January 15, 1930 they were married and moved to Manha�an. Shortly therea�er, the couple adopted the surname Lauder, correc�ng a misspelling that dated back to when Joseph's father emigrated from Austria to the United States.

Their first child, Leonard, was born March 19, 1933. The couple separated then divorced in 1939 and she moved to Florida, but they remarried in 1942. Their second son, Ronald, was born in 1944. Estée and Joseph Lauder

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WOMEN WHO CHANGED THE WORLD The Estée Story remained married un�l his death in 1982, and she later regre�ed her divorce, saying that she married young and assumed that she had missed out on life but soon found out that she had the "sweetest husband in the world."

HOW IT ALL STARTED Estée got her start selling skincare and makeup in hairdressing salons, demonstra�ng her products on women while they were si�ng under hair dryers. In 1946 she and Joseph Lauder officially launched the company, and a year later they got their first major order: $800 worth of products from Saks Fi�h Avenue.

She started her business with four skincare products and a simple philosophy that every woman can be beau�ful. Armed with that philosophy, plus perseverance, crea�vity and passion, she became a driving force and changed the face of the cosme�cs industry.

SHE KNEW WHAT WOMEN WANT Estée had innate ins�ncts for what women wanted and was the consummate saleswoman and marketer. She believed that to make a sale, you had to touch the consumer, show her the results on her face and explain the products. That was the start of the company’s personal HighTouch service.

She was one of the first cosme�c icons to introduce the "Gi� with Purchase" idea and took it to new heights, eleva�ng it to such popularity that it became a standard commercial prac�ce with other brands as well.

Working closely with women she quickly learned first-hand how to s�mulate a woman’s desire for beauty and how to provide them with appropriate cosme�c care that combines the sensorial feeling of beau�fully-cra�ed skincare with the alure of personal indulgence, as a daily ritual.

One of her famous sayings was “Never underes�mate any woman’s desire for beauty”.

Once the Estée Lauder brand began to adver�se, Estée insisted that the print images be both aspira�onal and approachable and selected one model to represent the face of the brand at any given �me. She picked the pale turquoise colour for the brand’s jars, believing it conveyed a sense of luxury and matched all bathroom decors.

Estée Lauder was a brilliant marketer who knew how to appeal both to the elite, as well as the masses basing her adver�sing on an innate understanding of what the average woman truly longed for – to nurture their own femininity and to cul�vate their own beauty.

Estée was passionate and extremely hardworking and a�ended the opening of virtually every new store and stayed for a week to instruct her beauty advisors on sales techniques and merchandise display.

Always stylish and well dressed, she became a role model of what women could aspire to by using her products. Always gracious and approachable, she crossed the na�on to meet with store buyers and beauty editors and to talk to consumers.

She was a one-person research and promo�onal department.

Decades before social media became mainstream, Estée ran word-of-mouth campaigns. Her o�en repeated mantra was “Telephone, Telegraph, Tell a Woman.” She believed that women who liked her products would spread the word.

PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES OF BEAUTY Estée Lauder was not only a skin care

pioneer, she also had a wonderful fragrance “nose.” One of her earliest successes was her Youth-Dew crea�on, a blend of rose, jasmine, ve�ver and patchouli that would bring her olfactory fame.

Un�l the 1950s, most women reserved fragrance for special occasions. A woman would wait for her husband to give her perfume on her birthday or anniversary. Estée wanted to find a way for women to buy their own perfume, so in 1953 she created Youth-Dew, a bath oil that doubled as a skin perfume. This innova�on took the cosme�cs industry by storm, changing the way fragrance was sold and transforming the fledgling start-up company into a mul�million-dollar business.

Estée was the quintessen�al entrepreneur who refused to listen to experts or se�le for anything less than the very best. She constantly challenged the status quo and is described as someone you simply couldn’t say no to.

A serial entrepreneur she oversaw the crea�on of five addi�onal brands — Aramis, Clinique, Prescrip�ves, Lab Series and Origins — and always insisted that the company’s products be made from the highest-quality ingredients.

A COSMETIC ICON Estée Lauder was an iconic cosme�c innovator that changed the way women related to skincare and cosme�cs in general, making them a staple part of their everyday rou�ne. She was always in the know about fashion trends, and founded and launched her namesake brand at a �me when Givenchy, Chanel, Dior, Balenciaga and other designers were shaping the latest fashions.

Estée loved New York City and drew inspira�on from its sophis�cated, vibrant, stylish culture. In the middle of the 20th century, New York was the

“No one EVER became a success without taking chances...One must be able to recognise the moment and seize it without delay...”

Estée Lauder APJ 15

global centre for art, architecture, innova�on and entrepreneurship. Although Estée's heart was in New York, she had homes in the South of France, London and Palm Beach, among other locali�es. She travelled the world and loved to visit museums and art galleries, a�end fashion shows and learn about her customers and their respec�ve cultures.

AWARDS AND HONOURS As a visionary businesswoman, Estée Lauder was honoured with many awards during her career. Receiving the French Legion of Honour from the Consul General of France, Gerard Causer which was one of the high points in her life. In January 16, 1978 she was the first woman to receive the Chevalier Commenda�on and she was inducted to the Junior Achievement U.S. Business Hall of Fame in 1988. She received the Presiden�al Medal of Freedom in 2004.

Estée supported numerous civic and cultural programs and other charitable causes, including the restora�on of the Palace of Versailles and the building of several playgrounds in New York City’s Central Park.

Renowned as one of the world’s most influen�al woman. She was sort out and became friends with some of the most famous celebri�es, royalty and ar�sts of her �me and was known for her impeccable style and her warm and gracious entertaining.

The only thing more important to Estée than the Company was her family, and she was thrilled that her children and grandchildren joined the family business.

Having lived an illustrious lifeEstée finally re�red in 1995 and passed away in her home

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in Manha�an in April 2004 at the incredible age of 97.

HER INSPIRATION TODAY The world has changed drama�cally since Estée Lauder created her brand in 1946. But the core values she embodied - respect for the individual, integrity, generosity of spirit and entrepreneurship remain at the heart of the Estée Lauder Companies and con�nue to inspire women of all genera�ons.

Today the brand engages with women in more than 150 countries and territories and at dozens of touch points — both in stores and online. And each rela�onship consistently reflects Estée’s powerful and authen�c convic�ons and unique point of view. More than 48,000 employees con�nue Estée's bold, breakthrough efforts, with a commitment to helping millions of consumers discover and express their own beauty. APJ

I am a proud professional APAN member!

I am supported with — Expert advice — Resource documents — Regulatory and business support — Educa�onal conferences — Qualifica�ons’ recogni�on — Promo�ng my business on SalonHubAustralia.com.au — Connec�ng with my community on social — Strong representa�on for my needs with the Government — Represent what will best serve me within regula�ons

(07) 5593 0360

info@apanetwork.com

www.apanetwork.com/membership

APJ 17

COSMETIC MEDICINE

AGEING LIPS and TREATMENT OPTIONS Dr Giulia D’Anna

AGEING BEGINS AT THE RIPE-OLD AGE OF 25! From this point onward, our gene�c chronology means that we produce less collagen every year. This is seen in changes all over the face and body, but par�cularly in the lower face.

There are several changes that occur in the lip as a result of ageing. The most notable is in the lip �ssue itself. In youth, the lip is bound by a mucosal covering. Underneath this is a layer of fat that surrounds the Orbicularis Oris muscle. This is important as it gives voluptuous and structure.

In the perioral region, the cutaneous por�on of the lip contains hair follicles, sweat glands and most importantly, small oestrogen receptors. Again, these give the cutaneous part of the lip structure and volume.

posteriorly, and the lateral aspects of the mandible also loses volume and height. This translates to movement of the teeth and again less support of the lip �ssue.

The cutaneous part of the lip starts to lose collagen and this is par�cularly accelerated in menopausal women. The oestrogen receptors start to see a decline in the essen�al hormones, resul�ng in an over-exaggerated response in the lips. Barcode lines – also known as smokers’ lines – start to appear with every contrac�on of the Orbicularis Oris muscle.

The vermillion border will start to lose volume too, as the fat content over the Orbicularis Oris muscle decreases with �me. This results in folding of the muscle and the result is less lip display, this further compounds the appearance of marione�e lines, since there is more compression of the lip onto the lower lip, with the reduced suppor�ve �ssue.

Part of our response to these changes will be: • Check the dental occlusion and make improvements where necessary.

So, what happens when we age?

The underlying skeleton of the face changes in several ways. The maxilla starts to narrow and regress posteriorly. This provides less support to the upper lip, as the teeth shi�, due to the shi�ing pa�ern in the bone shape. The mandible also undergoes some changes too. The alveolar bone becomes thinner and moves

APJ 18

•

Increase the collagen and hyaluronic acid produc�on in the perioral region and lips through s�mula�on

•

Use of skin boosters to improve skin condi�on and hydra�on.

•

Balancing lip posi�on with neuromodulators.

•

Increase Hyaluronic Acid deposi�on through the use of fillers.

This will provide structure and support to the lip, helping to 'upright' the Orbicularis Oris muscle.

DENTAL OCCLUSION Changes in the dental occlusion, or the way teeth bite, are constantly occurring through life. We can have a ver�cal dimension change (where the teeth close over each other more than they used to. Ver�cal dimension changes can occur as a result of tooth wear, tooth loss and crowding of the teeth.

As the ver�cal dimension of occlusion changes, the distance between the maxilla and the mandible is also changed. Therefore, the posi�on of the upper and lower lips at smile will also change.

The movement of the corners of the mouth is dictated by the modiolus (also known as the oral commissure or chellion), where eight muscles meet. In par�cular, the Zygoma�cus Major and the Depressor Anguli Oris muscles, which insert into the zygoma�c arch and the mandible, respec�vely. So, changing the ver�cal dimension, will result in a changed lip posture and posi�on also.

The other change that can occur with the dental occlusion over �me, is a loss in dental protrusion of the teeth. This means that instead of the teeth being nicely posi�oned and holding the lip �ssue out, there can be crowding where the teeth crowd over one another. This leads to the teeth si�ng less prominently, and thus the lip posi�on will also be less projected.

Combined with the loss in ver�cal dimension, this results in the lips being less everted and further results in the folding in of the lip itself.

projec�on of the teeth themselves, so the lip support from both the teeth and suppor�ng maxilla and mandibular bones will be increased. Some broad op�ons are tradi�onal bracket braces and the more contemporary approach of aligners to straighten the teeth.

•

Restora�on of teeth. Many �mes, pa�ents will opt for the quick fix. This is where we use dental restora�ve techniques to enhance the teeth. By adding porcelain veneers over the teeth, the length and projec�on of the teeth will also be improved.

Again, this has a suppor�ve effect on the lip structure si�ng on top.

•

Replacement of missing teeth. Whenever we lose a tooth, there is a resul�ng loss of the bone that would normally sit around the roots of the natural teeth. Replacing the teeth will result in be�er dental occlusion or bite, and again be�er support. There are a number of treatment op�ons for replacing missing teeth.

These are: • Dentures •

Dental implants

•

Dental bridges

INCREASING COLLAGEN AND HYALURONIC ACID (HA) PRODUCTION Strategies to increase collagen and HA are wide and varied, and largely depend upon the technologies and equipment you have in your clinic. Some op�ons include: •

Microneedling

•

Light-based energies, such as IPL, LED and laser

•

Radiofrequency, or similar energy-based devices.

All of these s�mulatory treatments are aimed at ‘ramping up’ the fibroblasts that are non-produc�ve. With increased produc�on, our clients will begin to no�ce an improvement in the cutaneous lip stability, and also the resistance of the lip to creasing when the mouth muscle is contracted. Several sessions will be required, and maintenance over �me too.

Strategies to correct the lip support from the teeth are long and varied. But in summary some op�ons may include: •

Correc�on of tooth posi�on with orthodon�c treatment. This will create and increased ver�cal dimension and increased

SKIN-BOOSTERS Unlike tradi�onal Hyaluronic Acid dermal fillers, Skin-boosters are a form of Hyaluronic Acid that are completely non-crosslinked.

Cross linking is the amount of bonding that is usually present in dermal filler that gives it the ability to li�, enhance and be stable in the skin for months or years at a �me. Non-crosslinked HA cannot do this. They act similar to an “injected hydrator” that improves

APJ 19

skin health and vitality, without any enhancement. We all know that hydrated skin func�ons be�er, as nutrient perfusion and cellular ac�vity is improved. Skin-boosters work on this principle.

1. Highligh�ng the Glogau-Klein point of the lip

The Skin-booster treatment is not intended to fill lines and wrinkles. Instead, it is to hydrate the skin and promote forma�on of new collagen and elas�n in the long term. Pa�ents no�ce a more dewy and firmer appearance to the skin and more of a ‘glow’ as a result. Unlike tradi�onal dermal fillers, they are not injected beneath the skin to volumise or accentuate certain features of the face. Instead, they are injected directly into the dermis to hydrate and improve overall skin quality. The Skin-booster’s stabilised HA is very fluid, so the final result is smooth and subtle resul�ng in a healthy, plump and glowing complexion.

3. Improving the vermillion border defini�on

2. Improving the philtral columns

4. Improving the natural volume of the lips Depending upon the lip type – Type 1 being an already wellformed lip, through to a Type 5 being a lip type that has completely lost lip structure – different techniques can be employed to enhance the lips. In my prac�ce, I use three main techniques, but frequently use hybrids of all three to achieve my goals.

It is recommended to do three treatments, two to four weeks apart following with maintenance treatments every four to six months. This is perfect for pa�ents that would like the ‘untouched look”.

NEUROMODULATOR USE FOR LIP BALANCING Newtons third law states that “for every ac�on, there is an equal and opposite reac�on”. This is the same for the muscles of the face. The use of neuromodulators, or Botulinum Toxin Type A, can assist our pa�ents by removing the depressor muscles that pull the lips in a downward direc�on.

One of my favourite treatments is to provide a ‘jowl li�’. This involves administering Botulinum Toxin to the Depressor Anguli Oris (DAO). The DAO is responsible for pulling the corners of the mouth, when grimacing or making a sad face. The jowl li� is a precise treatment helps to modify the corner of the mouth. Since the DAO cannot pull down, the elevator muscles have the resul�ng ac�on of li�ing the oral commissures. This helps to decrease the marione�e lines and improve the overall appearance of the lips.

The techniques I use rou�nely are: •

Classic lip enhancement

•

Cannula lip enhancement

•

Ten�ng – a.k.a. Russian– technique The scope of this ar�cle cannot cover which technique is best used in which circumstance, but each has benefits for each type of lip structure, and which area of the lip requires enhancement. I spent the last six years teaching these techniques to improve outcomes for Doctors, Den�sts and Registered nurses, and have an exci�ng program available to really solidify this knowledge.

The best results come from a combined approach or using several techniques to achieve rejuvena�on of the lips and perioral region. Not all pa�ents will opt for an enhancement, and similarly, not all pa�ents will undertake tooth correc�on treatments.

The concepts here are to work as a team reviewing the best possible solu�ons for the pa�ent’s individual needs. APJ

LIP ENHANCEMENT Lip enhancement is not always about crea�ng big lips. In many cases, my aim for my pa�ents is to restore structure and architecture to the lips. This will be aimed at:

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APJ 21

COMPANY PROFILE

Formulators of PHYT’S GLOBAL LEADERS IN ORGANIC COSMETIC INNOVATIONS Jérodia Group A MAJOR PLAYER IN ORGANIC AND NATURAL COSMETICS, the French group Jérodia with nearly 50 years of exper�se to its credit, is constantly developing new organic cosme�cs to nurture its consumers' wellbeing and help businesses pivot their focus to fulfill the growing demand for safe, result-driven skincare op�ons.

The Jérodia Group now has several brands made in France and interna�onally, including Phyt's, Gamarde, Françoise Morice.

Renowned for the high quality of their formula�ons, Jérodia Group, in addi�on to their brands, are also accessed by other natural cosme�c brands to white label some of their formula�ons and benefit from their extensive knowledge. Jérodia Group is considered globally as a leader and specialist in organic formula�ons.

PRESERVING NATURE THROUGH THE MANUFACTURE OF ORGANIC COSMETICS Being part of the pioneers in that field, Laboratoires PHYT'S, located in the South of France, have since 1972 been commi�ed to developing natural cosme�cs and food supplements to promote organic farming, far from pes�cides, synthe�c ingredients, and toxic chemicals.

The group places great emphasis on research and development in the formula�ons of their quality innova�ons. Thanks to mul�ple manufacturing facili�es, all their products are manufactured without the need for sub-contrac�ng part of the process elsewhere. This ability to group and control all aspects of the produc�on process from the research and development to the end products, has allowed them to develop unique and comprehensive exper�se, as well as ensure the quality assurance of all their products, which are distributed in France and globally.

SOCIAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY In addi�on to offering labelled organic, natural, or vegan products, Phyt's and the Jerodia Group as a whole, place great emphasis on social and environmental responsibility. Raw materials are sourced primarily in France and when this is not possible, Jérodia turns to fair trade materials.

Laboratoires Phyt's is also commi�ed to promo�ng local

APJ 22

employment and maintaining an agricultural ac�vity reoriented towards organic. The company supports local ini�a�ves and creates partnerships favouring local, high-quality, cer�fied organic supplies that op�mise the raw materials' carbon footprint.

PEOPLE ARE AT THE CENTER OF THE BRAND’S PHILOSOPHY As with its respect for nature, people remain at the centre of the brand's holis�c beauty philosophy. Each product is developed to achieve visible results, while bringing pleasure to the user. Both effec�veness and the client experience are never overlooked.

Phyt's offers a complete and comprehensive skincare range that meets an extensive range of skincare needs including oily and problema�c skin types to mature with an�-ageing skincare requirements. The range includes skin-lightening and rebalancing products, a comprehensive moisturising range, a sun range, slimming body products, as well as a baby range and a selec�on of skincare solu�ons for men. In short, their skincare solu�ons are extensive and excep�onally comprehensive.

UNIQUE SAFETY AND HYGIENIC PACKAGING Phyt’s Laboratories develop treatments for both professional use, as well as homecare. The uniqueness of the brand is that all professional treatments are packaged in single-use kits filled with glass vials that guarantee perfect hygiene and preserva�on of potency.

THE PHYT’S COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE There are now many organic cosme�cs brands available, and the current pandemic has undoubtedly been a trend accelerator towards clean and organic consumer preferences. Organic is now anchored in our lifestyle. A recent consumer report released by Sta�s�a indicated the annual global market growth for organic and natural beauty reached 10.4% in 2021 with a forecast of ongoing growth of 9.4% in the next 12 months. Compara�vely to the global beauty market annual growth which came in at only 5.25%, posi�ons the organic and natural market at an impressive twice the growth.

Meanwhile, Phyt’s con�nues to innovate to ensure they lead in offering the highest quality products, because not all organic products are created equal! They are considered experts in this

area. From the beginning Phyt’s have been proponents and innovators of natural and organic cosme�cs. Leading the way, Phyt's Laboratories today are integra�ng green chemistry technologies opening new possibili�es to the use of novel ingredients, while keeping their integrity and safety in terms of 100% natural and organic cer�fica�on.

Their compe��ve advantage is that their products are formulated with ingredients of natural origin that match the results of ac�ve cosme�cs in clinically proven ways. Phyt’s constantly introduces products that are at the leading edge of this market segment.

MEETING WITH THE HIGHEST STRINGENT REQUIREMENTS PHYT'S products are defined as bio-ac�ve cosme�cs. All their formula�ons are made from 100% natural origin ingredients, free of synthe�c preserva�ves, GMO and harmful chemical ingredients. They are cer�fied organic in accordance with the Cosmebio requirements. This charter gave birth to very demanding specifica�ons filed with the Ministry of Industry in France. It was developed specifically for the cosme�c industry and covers far beyond ingredients coming from organic farming. A bio-ac�ve cosme�c means that, aside from the absence of pollutants such as pes�cides, chemical fer�lisers, GMO, CMR, which in the long-term are harmful to our body and the

environment, the cosme�c product is rich in bio-ac�ve proper�es with a significant amount of ac�ve ingredients. The Phyt’s values and philosophy are now understood and demanded by distributors and consumers alike. They do not develop cosme�cs that mask symptoms as synthe�c chemicals o�en do, but organic cosme�cs designed to nourish and revive the skin metabolism. APJ

orders@phyts.com.au 0416 143 537 or 1300 656 627 www.phyts.com.au

APJ 23

PANACEA

A LEADING GLOBAL TREND-SETTER

PHYT’S MOST RECENT innova�on is the Panacea high-end range - an excep�onal global treatment for the face and eye contour.

PANACEA - the new entrant in the luxury high-performance skincare category comes in two products – a divinely nutri�ous cream, and an incredible eye-contour product. Both products combine global age-defying ac�ons with the heavenly fragrance of rosewood, novel eco-packaging, and a definite focus on skin health and safety, as well as an 100% natural and cer�fied organic guarantee.

We all love a story that inspires and intrigues. A decade in the making, Panacea has now been stepped-up to enter the luxury high-performance market segment. The range was inspired by the unparalleled resilience of the Edelweiss flower, an extremophile.

Extremophiles are plants (and other microorganisms) that live in extreme condi�ons and have adapted to thrive in the most inhospitable environments like extreme cold, heat, or isola�on.

They have survived by adap�ng to these environments and today, are the craze of scien�sts learning how to use them as ac�ve ingredients in cosme�cs.

Edelweiss is such a plant. It grows at 6,000 to 10,000 feet in limestone where UV exposure is high and cold temperatures can be extreme. Edelweiss extracts have a high concentra�on of flavonoids and phenolic acid to fight UV-induced damage and make them an ideal cons�tuent of sunscreens. The same components that protect the flower from intense ultraviolet rays at high al�tudes also protect our skin from sun damage.

The Edelweiss flower is loaded with an�oxidants that scavenge the harmful free radicals and help to reverse the visible signs of ageing. It is also contains a high concentra�on of Leontopodic Acids A and B that s�mulate and increase produc�on of hyaluronic acid and prevent collagen degrada�on, thus reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Packed with other excep�onal ingredients, Panacea �cks all the

boxes for purity and efficacy through its incredible synergis�c ac�on to combat the visible signs of skin ageing, bringing skincare results to a new level. Panacea will: reduce the appearance of wrinkles, �ghtens the skin, reduce oxida�ve stress and reduce pigmenta�on irregulari�es.

Results are nothing short of spectacular, with wrinkles size, depth and width significantly reduced: * 51% of wrinkles, * 56% of wrinkle surface, * 57% in wrinkle length.

Ref: 1. Instrumental test carried out on 20 women aged 45 to 70 – twice daily applica�on morning and evening for 28 days.

Panacea La Crème is available in a refined, eco-designed, 100% recyclable packaging made of FSC cer�fied cardboard consis�ng of more than 50% hemp fibre. The box does not have any glue points or film coa�ng, further improving the ability to recycle the packaging.

Panacea La Crème, Eye Contour formula is a hybrid texture between gel and cream contains the flagship ingredients found in the cream, enriched also with Annurca apple extract and a concentrate of ac�ve milk proteins. Laboratory tes�ng has confirmed the excep�onal response to the main problems associated with ageing of the delicate eye contour: *Wrinkles, *Saggy skin, *Dehydra�on, *Puffiness and dark circles.

Rapid visible results include: •

36% less visible wrinkles a�er 15 minutes 1.

•

28% of dark circles and puffiness are so�ened, and the eye contour is li�ed 2.

Ref: 1. Instrumental test - 20 women - 45 to 70 years - 15 min a�er the 1st applica�on. 2. Scoring - 20 women - 45 to 70 years - twice daily applica�on - 28 days.

Research strongly confirms the growing number of consumers who are priori�sing their cosme�c and skincare choices with specific criteria, which include not only results, but also environmental responsibility, pure, clean, organic and safe formula�ons to support the health and appearance of their skin. The sta�s�cs are quite evident and astute business owners are taking note. Phyt’s is considered a global leader in quality, purity and efficacy in organic skincare. Their products will support your business to address a variety of skincare needs for both skin and body, men, and women. Their innova�ve formula�ons are beau�fully present and �ck all the boxes on what consumers are now looking for. APJ For further informa�on contact Phyt’s - orders@phyts.com.au 0416 143 537 or 1300 656 627 www.phyts.com.au

APJ 24

PANACEA LaCrème Complete age defying Solu�on

Panacea, the first 100% natural and cer�fied organic formula�on has been stepped-up to enter the luxury high-performance market segment. Inspired by the unparalleled capacity for resilience of the Edelweiss flower known for its extremophile powerful an�oxidant.

Experience significant improvement in: •

Appearance of wrinkles

•

Skin firming and �ghtening

•

Reduc�on of oxida�ve stress

•

Reduc�on in pigmenta�on and skin tone irregulari�es

Spectacular results in wrinkle improvement: * 51% of wrinkles, * 56% of wrinkle surface, * 57% in wrinkle length.

Ref: 1. Instrumental test carried out on 20 women aged 45 to 70 – twice daily applica�on morning and evening for 28 days.

1300 143 537 0416 143 537 orders@phyts.com.au

APJ 25

STAR PERFORMER

VENUS VIVA NANOFRACTIONAL RF Se�ng a new standard in skin rejuvena�on In pursuit of ‘flawless skin’ the new ‘minimum standard’ on social media, is undoubtedly fuelling demand for skin resurfacing treatments worldwide.

Although the vast majority know that images of perfect, o�en ‘poreless’ skin are usually heavily filtered and that flawless skin is extremely rare in real life, many are s�ll happy to spend �me and money in its pursuit. CO2 laser treatments were considered the best treatment op�on for people wan�ng to improve their skin’s appearance, but due to the associated pain and lengthy down�me, increasing numbers of consumers are choosing frac�onal resurfacing treatments like the Venus Viva.

This technology uses NanoFrac�onal Radio Frequency (RF) with SmartScan technology to repair mild to severe skin damage without affec�ng the surrounding �ssue.

However, the Viva stands out from other RF devices because it is highly customisable – the prac��oner has total control of abla�on, coagula�on and resurfacing to customise every single treatment for op�mal safety and efficacy.

This means prac��oners can drama�cally improve the appearance of skin imperfec�ons (including acne scars, stretch marks, rosacea, enlarged pores, wrinkles and pigmenta�on) for EVERY client in just two to three treatments with minimal discomfort and down�me!

Venus Concept Australia educa�on manager Whitney Stronach says the Venus Viva delivers drama�c treatment outcomes. Aesthe�c professionals know no two skins are alike, but unfortunately,

APJ 26

many skin treatments s�ll can’t be safely customised.

“In the past, this has meant that many clinics were frustrated because they knew they could not deliver the results that consumers were looking for, but thanks to the Viva, clinics can now offer real hope, with a treatment that can step-up results, to all their clients,” Whitney said.

“In fact, according to Whitney, the Venus Viva is so customisable it can effec�vely replace all the other skin resurfacing devices in many clinics.

“From experience with our clinic partners, we know that the Venus Viva can outperform any previous treatment result,” she said.

“Flawless skin may not be possible for everyone, but the Venus Viva can drama�cally improve the appearance of every skin. It is the only skin resurfacing system that most aesthe�c clinics will ever need, Whitney said.”

The Venus Viva’s key features include: Venus Viva MD applicator (for skin abla�on and resurfacing) • Uses unique NanoFrac�onal RF™ technology with adjustable abla�on and coagula�on parameters, to deliver radio frequency energy into the skin Has two �p op�ons for highly customised treatments: 80 pin �p (up to 124 mJ/pin) and 160 pin �p (up to 62 mJ/pin).

SmartScan Technology • Uses unique algorithm and pa�ern selec�on technology that enables operator to generate customised pa�erns for maximum flexibility and control.

•

Enables abla�on and coagula�on of the epidermis and dermis zone in a frac�onal manner.

•

Eliminates the need to use addi�onal �ps during treatments.

Diamondpolar Applicator With (Mp) Technology (for non-invasive wrinkle reduc�on) • Uses proprietary (MP)2 technology, a combina�on of Mul�-Polar Radio Frequency (RF) and Pulsed Electro Magne�c Fields (PEMF) to s�mulate fibroblasts, induces fibroblast prolifera�on and increase new collagen produc�on. APJ For more informa�on visit h�ps://www.venusconcept.com/en-au/venus-viva-md.htm

APJ 27

SKIN SCIENCE

GLYCATION: A NEW UNDERSTANDING AND EFFECTIVE TREATMENTS Jacine Greenwood-Drummond

IF YOU ARE COMMITED TO TREATING AGEING SKIN you will most definitely be confronted with the dreaded skin condi�on known as glyca�on. For many years this condi�on was considered to be the result of cross-linked collagen, however new research is now uncovering that this is not the case. In this ar�cle JACINE GREENWOOD-DRUMMOND is presen�ng compelling evidence that is iden�fying other reasons why glyca�on occurs in the skin.

Skin glyca�on impairs the epidermal barrier from repairing properly, disassembling the dermal matrix, and causing an inflammatory cascade. It has also been shown to be involved in pigmentary changes, that are unrelated to melanin. We now know that skin glyca�on is not just about cross-linked collagen. In fact, research is uncovering a new understanding of both the origin and treatment op�ons for this condi�on.

THE NEW UNDERSTANDING OF GLYCATION Glyca�on was first described over 100 years ago. It entails a series of simple and complex non-enzyma�c reac�ons. Advanced glyca�on end (AGE) products form when proteins, lipids, or nucleic acids are covalently bound by sugar molecules such as glucose or fructose, resul�ng in the inhibi�on of normal func�on of the target molecules. Once glycated, these proteins are rendered dysfunc�onal and undergo further structural rearrangements to form dangerous advanced glyca�on end products (AGEs) that accumulate in the brain, kidney, arteries and skin as we get older. This is evident in diabe�cs, whose systemic complica�ons are �ed to abnormal AGE levels. This is quite different from the normal process of glycosyla�on, which

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occurs as a normal part of skin func�oning. Glycosyla�on is an enzyme-mediated ATP-dependent a�achment of sugars to a protein or lipid.

The RAGE receptor is a toll-like receptor, which is a key mediator in the body’s response to bacteria or viruses, for example. The AGEs glycated proteins, lipids or even nucleic acids form a group of pa�erned ligands that can interact with RAGEs and ini�ate cellular signaling programs that include ac�va�on of NF-ĸB, a major inflammatory agent suspected in ageing. Unlike binding directly to a long-lived protein such as collagen or elas�n, these soluble AGEs act as ligands on RAGEs and s�mulate the inflammatory process. RAGEs can sustain cellular ac�va�on and convert short-las�ng pro-inflammatory responses into long-las�ng cellular dysfunc�on.

WHERE IS AGE FOUND? The most prevalent AGE in the human body, including the skin, is carboxymethyl-lysine (CML), which is formed by oxida�ve degenera�on of Amadori products or by direct addi�on of glyoxal to lysine. In the skin, CML is found in the normal epidermis, aged and diabe�c dermis, and photoageing-ac�nic elastosis. Other AGEs detected in skin include pentosidine, glyoxal, methylglyoxal, glucosepane, fructoselysine, carboxyethyl-lysine, glyoxal-lysine dimer, and methylglyoxal-lysine dimer. When excess sugar, such as fructose or glucose, floats around the bloodstream, it has a propensity for binding to func�onal proteins through a chemical process called glyca�on.

Newer research has shown that glyca�on not only affects collagen and elas�n, but also plays a role in the forma�on of pigment. In a study by Lee et al (2016) it was shown for the first �me the existence of receptors for AGE (RAGE) were located in melanocytes. These receptors are called receptor-advanced glyca�on end products (RAGE).

The presence of advanced glyca�on end products (AGEs) has been shown to ac�vate these receptors, with a subsequent increase in tyrosinase and MITF expression. Tyrosinase is the enzyme responsible for the second step in pigmenta�on produc�on. MITF is the master regulator for three primary enzymes responsible for pigmenta�on.

Glyca�on could also be responsible for the pigment associated with photoageing as well, with studies showing increased secre�on of AGEs from kera�nocytes following UV irradia�on.

High levels of AGEs likewise may impair dermal regenera�on, reducing collagen solubility due to intermolecular crosslinking and matrix metalloproteinase resistance. However, aside from the known contribu�on of AGEs to the wrinkling of ageing skin, the interrela�onship of AGEs and melanocytes has not been adequately studied.

MELANOGENESIS AND AGEs In the study by Lee et al (2016), the expression of melanogenesis from RAGE was inves�gated. Before performing experiments on the effect of AGEs on melanogenesis they inves�gated whether melanocytes express RAGE, the known receptor for AGEs.

In the study, a commercially available mixture of Nε-(carboxymethyl)-lysine, pentosidine, and others was used for seeing the effects of AGEs on melanogenesis in ex vivo skin organ culture and in vitro melanocyte culture. Incuba�on with AGEs at the concentra�on of 200 μg/ml showed no detrimental effect on cell viability and did not show any increase in ROS and proinflammatory cytokines such as IL-6 and TNF-α. In addi�on, AGEs appeared to have no direct stress effect on melanocytes when phosphorylated p38 expression was checked. However, AGEs did heighten melanin produc�on, tyrosinase ac�vity, and the expression of melanogenesis-associated molecules including MITF and tyrosinase. Addi�onally, sec�ons of cultured human skin (by Fontana-Masson stain) showed propor�onately higher melanin pigmenta�on a�er AGEs exposure, based on ra�os of pigmented epidermal areas to total epidermal areas.

AGE-MEDIATED MELANOGENESIS During the study AGE-mediated melanogenesis was explored in ex vivo experiments using human skin. AGEs (200 μg/ml) were delivered twice (day 1 and 3) over a period of five days to an organ culture system which u�lised remnants of breast skin from plas�c surgery.

As a result, increased melanin content was demonstrated (via Fontana-Masson staining) in skin cultures five days a�er AGE exposure. In AGE-exposed human skin (vs. non-exposed controls), the ra�o of pigmented epidermal area to total epidermal areas was significantly greater. However, there was no difference in the

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number of epidermal melanocytes between both control and AGEs-delivered �ssues. Taken together, these results indicate that AGEs have a s�mulatory effect on pigmenta�on without increasing number of epidermal melanocytes.

As cells were exposed to AGEs, expression levels of microphthalmia-associated transcrip�on factor (MITF) and tyrosinase, the melanogenesis-associated molecules, were increased. In addi�on, tyrosinase enzyma�c ac�vity rose significantly upon incuba�on with AGEs, along with a significant increase in melanin content (~17%) compared to control cells. To see the effect of long incuba�on of AGEs on melanogenesis, we treated AGEs on melanin cells for two weeks. Two weekincuba�on of AGEs augmented more melanin contents (~23.9%) in comparison to four day-incuba�on.

Lee et al (2016) also inves�gated the contribu�on of AGEs-RAGE to pigmenta�on as an alternate mechanism of pigmenta�on signaling other than MC1R-mediated pathway and further sought to observe the implica�on of AGEs-RAGE pathway in UV-induced pigmenta�on. Through their experiments, they were able to iden�fy the expression of RAGE in melanocytes and the role of AGEs in melanogenesis. Consequently, increased secre�on and produc�on of AGEs were observed from kera�nocytes following UV irradia�on. These two end products have been found to interfere with biochemical substances and reac�ons, one in par�cular, with DNA. Both glyoxal and methylglyoxal damage DNA in intact cells; glyoxal is able to produce DNA strand breaks, while methylglyoxal is responsible for DNA protein cross-linking that results in nuclear condensa�on and the inac�va�on of some sec�ons of DNA. GLYCATION AND COOKING METHODS One of the most under-acknowledged methods of managing glyca�on is food and the way it is cooked. Studies have shown that consump�on of AGEs is not only �ed to the sugar content of food, but is also affected by the method of cooking. A host of dietary compounds have surfaced as poten�al therapeu�c candidates in the inhibi�on of AGE-mediated changes.

70 years ago, it was discovered that there was a correla�on between the level of sugar in the blood and the skin, and that a diet high in sugar led to a subsequent decline in both skin and blood. The process of hea�ng and cooking food is now also understood to result in the development of advanced glyca�on end products. These preformed AGEs have a 30% efficacy of being absorbed by the gut and entering the circula�on, where they induce protein cross-linking, inflamma�on, and intracellular oxida�ve stress.

Grilling, frying, deep fat frying, and roas�ng methods are all known to produce higher levels of AGEs in food. In contrast, methods of prepara�on that are water-based, such as boiling and steaming, produce a logarithmically lower number of AGEs. Water-based cooking methods are the primary method of cooking for Asians. A diet low in AGEs correlated with a reduc�on in inflammatory biomarkers (i.e., tumor necrosis factor-alpha, interleukin-6, and C-reac�ve protein) in diabe�c human pa�ents, as well as an improvement in wound healing and other diabetesassociated sequelae in mice.

HERBS THAT INHIBIT THE PRODUCTION OF AGEs Several herbs and spices have been shown to be capable of inhibi�ng the produc�on of AGEs. These include cinnamon, cloves, oregano, and allspice. Other dietary compounds that have been linked to inhibi�on of AGE forma�on based on in vitro data and preliminary animal models include ginger, garlic, α-lipoic acid, carni�ne, taurine, carnosine, flavonoids (e.g., green tea catechins), benfo�amine (lab made thiamine), α-tocopherol, niacinamide, pyridoxal, sodium selenite, selenium yeast, riboflavin, zinc and manganese. The cosmeceu�cal industry has taken no�ce of this data and several have recently released topical products

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containing carnosine and α-lipoic acid, with claims related to an�AGE forma�on.

In one of the few human studies successfully conducted on an�AGE therapeu�cs, L-carni�ne supplementa�on for six months in hemodialysis pa�ents significantly decreased levels of AGEs in the skin. L-carni�ne, which is naturally abundant in meat, poultry, fish, and dairy products, is an an�oxidant. Furthermore, it may func�on synergis�cally to neutralise oxida�ve stress when given with α-lipoic acid.

THE EFFECTS GLYCATION HAS ON THE SKIN’S APPEARANCE A variety of cutaneous cells including fibroblasts, kera�nocytes and melanosomes produce AGEs. Advanced glyca�on end products that are released from these cells affect fibronec�n, laminin, collagen, elas�n and melanin produc�on. The AGEs seen in the skin that are responsible take the form of N6(carboxymethyl)-lysine (CML), pyrraline, pentosidine, or other molecules as consequences of ageing and ac�nic damage.

The dermis, which provides strength and resiliency to skin, consists primarily of an extracellular matrix that has a high quan�ty of the protein collagen, par�cularly types I and III. Due to its slow turnover rate and exposure to elevated glucose levels outside of cells, collagen falls vic�m to glyca�on and AGE forma�on. Proteins in the dermal matrix and cytoskeleton are par�cularly suscep�ble to glyca�on, resul�ng in �ssue s�ffening and reduced elas�city.

The result is extensive cross-linking of collagen molecules, turning them from tough and flexible to bri�le and s�ff. This decreases the skin’s elas�city and sets the stage for the development of wrinkles and sagging skin. Glyca�on has been shown to prevent the binding of collagen type 1 to kera�nocytes and reduces the migratory ability of kera�nocytes in the epidermis. This has an impact on wound healing and can present clinically as skin ulcers and delayed skin healing. This process of uncontrolled glyca�on also reduces the cell’s ability to generate nitric oxide from Larginine, which is required for proper cross-linking of collagen fibers, and inac�vates proteins responsible for collagen and elas�n repair. Clinically, this results in lower skin tensile strength, as seen in the aged skin of older individuals.

Glyca�on also has been connected to the accelerated ageing of kera�nocytes. For instance, placing kera�nocytes in �ssue culture with a solu�on of glucose at 100 mM, or glyoxal at 0. 1 mM, will change the biological characteris�c of the cells in three days from young kera�nocytes to old, late-passage kera�nocytes that show signs of slowing down, nearing death and unable to divide. This is significant because it indicates that a poor diet, high in sugars, can markedly speed up the ageing process. These are but a few of the adverse effects of glyca�on on skin.

Once the skins collagen is glycated it is highly resistant to repair mechanisms, which allows it to accumulate and impair the structural integrity of the dermis. It has been shown to cause the collapse of specialised cells known as fibroblasts that produce and organise collagen fibers. This strongly influences collagen homeostasis and subsequently leads to less collagen produc�on and more breakdown in the skin. To make ma�ers worse, ultraviolet (UV) exposure and AGE forma�on itself generate free radicals that further exacerbate this problem by increasing ac�vity of the collagen-degrading enzyme matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1).

GLYCATION AND WOUND HEALING Advanced Glyca�on End Products have also been shown to influence wound healing. In the presence of AGEs kera�nocytes lose their migratory and prolifera�ve abili�es. Pa�ents who have type 2 diabetes have been shown to have impaired stratum corneum hydra�on and barrier disfunc�on. With a decrease in

epidermal lipids and ceramides being produced, as well as decreased an�microbial pep�des. Advanced Glyca�on End products play a role in this barrier dysfunc�on. Increased blood glucose levels lead to serum increases of AGEs and Epidermal RAGE. This leads to a decreased in kera�nocyte prolifera�on, weakened stratum corneum integrity, delayed barrier recovery, decreased epidermal lipid synthesis, decreased lamellar body synthesis, decreased stratum corneum lipids and an�microbial pep�des (hBD 2 and 3 and LL-37). The result being a skin barrier that is not func�oning adequately with reduced ability to defend off microbes, leaving it vulnerable for bacterial or microbial infec�on.

AGEs markedly increase in diabetes, due to a higher glycoly�c rate, and se�le on the elas�c network. They arise from dicarbonyl precursors, among which methylglyoxal can be found. Among the other markers studied for their sensi�vity to glyca�on, it was shown that fibrillin-1, a glycoprotein associated with oxytalan fibres is highly sensi�ve to glyca�on.

In a study by Gasser et al (2011) it was highlighted that fibrillin-1 is the parameter most sensi�ve to glyca�on, and that its altera�on is inversely correlated to the appari�on of carboxymethyl)-lysine (CML) and pentosidine.

It was determined that glyca�on can be induced in just a few days by methylglyoxal (a reference glycant agent). Aminoguanidine hydrochloride, the reference inhibitor of glyca�on was added in the culture medium and its efficacy regarding methylglyoxalinduced glyca�on was assessed. Once this model was validated, the efficacy of topically applied formulas containing aminoguanidine HCl or other poten�al an�- ingredients against methylglyoxal-induced glyca�on were able to be studied.

COSMETIC ACTIVES THAT TREAT GLYCATION When we had limited understanding of what caused glyca�on, it was difficult to know how to treat it. However, on-going studies are revealing the benefits of certain cosme�c ac�ves that can support and treat glyca�on. Here are just a few.

Olive Leaf Extract Olive leaf extracts have a unique composi�on, with the leaves containing a high number of an�oxidants, esters and flavonoids.

Among the major phenolic components (luteolin, hydroxytyrosol, and oleuropein), luteolin and luteolin-40-O-b-D-glucopyranoside were assigned as potent inhibitors of AGE forma�on.

It cannot be stressed highly enough that the extrac�on procedure greatly affects the composi�on and therefore the an�-glyca�on poten�al of olive leaves. In a study they inves�gated the in vitro an�-glyca�on profile of both an aqueous as well as methanol olive leaf extracts. The chemical composi�on was determined using liquid chromatography-UV-Vis. The methanolic olive leaf extract inhibited fluorescent AGE forma�on in BSA-ribose system, whereas the aqueous extract had no effect in both BSA-fructose and BSA-ribose systems.

The results demonstrate that the methanolic olive leaf extract inhibited fluorescent AGE forma�on in BSA-ribose system, whereas the normal extrac�on had no effect. The inhibitory poten�al on AGE forma�on is a�ributed to the presence of luteolin and luteolin-40 -O-b-D-glucopyranoside in high concentra�ons.

Blueberry Extract Blueberries have long been known for remarkable an�inflammatory and free-radical figh�ng proper�es, which can be credited to their wealth of phenolic compounds known as anthocyanins. By comba�ng free radicals and reducing the release of proinflammatory cytokines, blueberries can safely break the self-perpetua�ng cycle of AGEs and oxida�ve stress that underlies intrinsic skin ageing.

When researchers tested the an�-glyca�on ac�vity of various fruits, blueberries ranked one of the highest. In addi�on, blueberries protect against collagen breakdown by inhibi�ng matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) as a response to UV light.

In human studies, blueberry extracts have been shown to improve the undesirable skin changes that accompany ageing. In a study of 20 diabe�c females older than 55 years with elevated skin AGEs, a topical prepara�on containing blueberry extract significantly improved skin tone and smoothness, fine lines, crepiness and firmness a�er 12 weeks with excellent tolerability. Although no changes in skin AGEs was observed, researchers believe that a study with a longer dura�on might have produced a different result.

In another clinical trial, six weeks of supplementa�on with an oral mixture containing blueberry extract in 62 women aged 45-73 significantly increased skin elas�city by 9% over a placebo, and a�er 12 weeks significantly decreased skin roughness by 6% compared to the control group.

Mangosteen Extract Mangosteen (Garcinia mangostana ) fruit has a unique sweet-sour taste and is rich in beneficial compounds such as xanthones.

Xanthone is one of the compound classes that are prevalent in mangosteen. So far, there are more than 68 xanthones isolated from the mangosteen fruit with the majority of them being cmangos�n).

These xanthones were also implicated in various pharmaceu�cal proper�es but more studies are needed to verify their effec�veness in human applica�ons. Using High Pressure Liquid Chromatography (HPLC), Muchtaridi et al. (2017) measured the level of a-mangos�n, c-mangos�n,and gartanin from different regions of Indonesia which suggest their levels can be dependent upon locali�es. This is interes�ng as xanthones may be extracted differently in different laboratories around the world, given that published manuscripts related to mangosteen and xanthone extrac�on have originated from not just South-East Asian countries, but also from United States, Japan, China, and United Kingdom.

In a study examining the efficacy of mangostana in preven�ng and inhibi�ng advanced glyca�on end products. G. mangostana was evaluated for its inhibitory effects against two monosaccharidemediated protein glyca�on reac�ons and oxida�ve damage of BSA. G. mangostana markedly inhibited protein glyca�on and oxida�ve damage in BSA induced by glucose and ribose. The isolated bioac�ve compounds that belong to the flavonoid and benzophenone classes of compounds decreased the forma�on of fluorescent, non-fluorescent AGEs and fructosamine associated with the reduc�on of protein aggrega�on and protein carbonyl content. They also prevented the loss of protein thiol groups. An�AGEs forma�on ac�vity could be due to inhibi�on of radical chain reac�ons by their radical scavenging ac�vity. Given the ability of G. mangostana to inhibit glyca�on reac�ons with monosaccharides, we conclude that the use of GMT will prevent accumula�on of AGEs. IN CONCLUSION Glyca�on plays a role in many skin condi�ons. To effec�vely manage these, an�-glyca�on ac�ves may need to be considered in the formula�on of these products. The treatment of pigmenta�on has been shown to be influenced by advanced glyca�on end products, and yet many products on the market do not have ac�ves that have an�-glyca�on proper�es. Slow healing wounds may also be in part to the ac�vity of glycated end products in the skin. To successfully treat skin condi�ons including pigmenta�on, ageing and slow healing wounds, an�-glyca�on ac�ves will become a crucial part of managing these condi�ons. APJ

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RESEARCH

ARE THERE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN MALE AND FEMALE SKIN? Professor Terry Everi�

SKIN IS SKIN SOME SAY, and of course, they are correct. In terms of male and female skin, it is said that there are considerable differences, primarily resul�ng from gene�c and difference in the metabolism of sex hormones and response to them.

Men's and women's skins differ in hormone metabolism, hair growth, sweat rate, sebum produc�on, surface pH, fat accumula�on, among other differences (Giacomoni et al., 2009).

seen in photo-aged females. This does change in later years, where males photodamage may become more pronounced.

As a generalisa�on, Rahrovan et al. (2018) found sex-related differences in anatomy, physiology, epidemiology and several disease manifesta�ons. Concerning skin disorders, infec�ous diseases are presented more in men, but psychosoma�c problems, pigmentary disorders, certain hair diseases, and autoimmune and allergic diseases are more common in women.

However, even with these considera�ons, not all skin of the same gender is the same and this is one of the primary challenges that all skin professionals need to consider.

Skin thickness (ųm) Bailey et al. 2012)

THICKNESS Male skin is indeed thicker than female skin, partly due to the presence of course and pigmented terminal hair over much of the body and, in par�cular, the face, contras�ng with the fine and colourless vellus hair of females (Sandby-Moller, Poulsen, & Wulf, 2003).

DERMIS The dermis contains water, ground substance and elas�c fibres contribu�ng to its thickness. Men's skin is thicker at all ages, yet the extent of the difference varies with the anatomical region. On the forearm, it has been reported to be of the order of 20% (Shuster, Black & McVi�e, 1975).

Bailey et al. (2012) found that men had an overall 10-20% thicker skin than women, with Firooz et al. (2017) showing similar results and iden�fied that epidermal thickness thins with age on some body sites, such as cheek, palm and dorsum of the foot remains constant on other areas, such as neck and sole. This varia�on is not accounted for by sun or environmental or hormonal status among groups (p. 18).

A�er menopause, women's skin is 10% thinner than before menopause. Skin thickness decreases in men and women, star�ng at the age of 45. Other authors report that skin thickness decreases linearly with age in men beginning at the age of 20, whereas it seems to remain constant in women un�l the age of 50 or so, and then starts decreasing (Luebberding et al., 2013). These changes might affect the elas�city, defined as the propor�onality factor between the intensity of the stress applied to the skin and its strain.

Thicker skin resists some UVA damages, but different genders of the same age do not exhibit the pronounced redundant facial skin

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Topical oestrogen applica�on is reported to increase skin thickness by nearly 10% compared with less than 5% for the placebo group. The observa�on supports that ovariectomy is associated with thinning of the skin, whereas oestrogen therapy thickens skin (Alexander & Cook, 2006).

TEWL than women un�l around 40. In most sites, water loss was stable or increased over subjects' life�me in both sexes. However, the difference in evaporimetry results in male skin progressively dehydrates with age at all localisa�ons except for the forearm (Luebberding et al., 2013, p. 483).

Loss of collagen has been associated with the occurrence of skin thinning post-menopause. Two separate studies demonstrated that collagen content increased 34-48% following hormone treatment than non-treated subjects (Brincat, Moniz & Studdi, 1985).

SEBUM Men have been reported to have higher sebum produc�on and larger pore size. Since 1974, it has been known that Caucasian men have been reported to have an average of 3 mg of sebum per square cen�metre of the skin surface as opposed to Caucasian women having 0.7 mg/cm2 (Pochi & Strauss, 1974).

pH FACTOR The pH of the skin has been measured at mul�ple different sites in men and women with varying results regarding gender differences, so studies are conflic�ng on this parameter, with most appearing to find males skin with lower acidity measures however by how much varies greatly (Kim et al. 2006; Luebberding et al.2013).

Studies show significant difference yet not changing by much, such as 6.40 male versus female 6.10 (Fox et al.,1998); 5.80 male versus female 5.54 (Ehlers et al.,2001).

Overall, women had higher pH values than men. The pH of men was significantly lower than that of women and generally increased with age, whereas women's pH generally decreased with age (Luebberding et al., 2013; Youn et al., 2013).

This minor yet relevant difference is thought to result from the increased Free Fa�y Acids from the sebaceous gland lipases. The eccrine gland derived lac�c acid, increasing the acidifica�on of the skin's pH. Yet, there remains no consensus on how age and gender affect skin surface pH. TRANSEPIDERMAL WATER LOSS In general, and regardless of age, men showed significantly lower

More recent studies found higher sebum levels in male subjects in different parts of the face, except for the forehead, where female subjects had higher sebum levels, yet progressively decreased in women over their life�me (Man et al., 2009; Bailey et al., 2012; Luebberding et al., 2013).

We know that the skin's sebum content is mainly influenced by androgens, such as testosterone and dehydroepiandrosterone. In contrast, oestrogens exert the opposite effect through the downregula�on of sebaceous gland func�on.

For this reason, acne is typically more severe and longer las�ng in males than in females, with a preference for the face, chest and back. Since testosterone is present throughout life in men, sebum produc�on also remains high. This sebum produc�on provides skin moisturisa�on resul�ng in fewer wrinkles in males un�l much later years.

Age affects sebum secre�on differently at different anatomical sites in males and females, but data indicate higher sebum content in males than females.

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SKIN TONE Studies from Iran, India and Australia have demonstrated women have lighter skin, yet in general, both sexes darken with increasing age. (Mehrai, & Sunderland, 1990; Banerjee, 1984; Green, & Mar�n 1990).

Differences in melanin, haemoglobin, carotene, hormonal influence, and environmental sun exposure may all be involved.

No gender-linked difference has been reported for melanocyte distribu�on.

Men appear to undergo a more faculta�ve pigmenta�on a�er sun exposure. Addi�onally, it seems they have a longer �me with it before dispersal. Facial hair of males provides more of a complexion darkening, along with increased upper re�cular dermal vascularisa�on. Radiance and glow are the consequence of surface homogeneity and can be improved by mild exfolia�on.

PERSPIRATION Men have greater sweat rates than women, which is true across all age ranges and stages of sexual maturity (Gagnon, Crandall, & Kenny, 2013).

Mean body temperature increased, men exhibited more significant sweat and sweat gland output than women, while the number of ac�ve sweat glands was similar (Green et al., 2000).

Results suggest that sex differences in swea�ng result from lower maximum swea�ng capacity of female sweat glands and not a difference in cholinergic sensi�vity of the sweat gland.

VASCULARITY The difference in skin blood flow between men and women is hormone-dependent, while both genders have the same capillary structure and volumes. Females have a thinner epidermis than men; this difference may be responsible for the vascular structures' visual appearance.

We do know that for women, the phase of the menstrual cycle varies the blood flow considerably.

Basal blood flow was lowest in the luteal phase and highest in the preovulatory stage. Compared to the other phases of the menstrual cycle, it is demonstrated that finger skin perfusion had the greatest cold-induced constric�on during the luteal phase and the most negligible recovery following (Bartelink, Ollersheim, Theeuwes, 1990).

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One elegant study via laser Doppler imagery following iontophoresis of acetylcholine (an endothelium-dependent vasodilator) showed that premenopausal women had more significant response acetylcholine than postmenopausal women, reflec�ng a change in skin vasculature with ageing (Algotsson, Nordberg, & Winblad, 1995).

CONCLUSION Similar results are generally reported for some parameters, such as sebum being higher in males - influenced by sex hormones. It is found that skin thickness and pigmenta�on are higher in males, yet not much difference in skin electricity.

Other parameters provide confusing and conflic�ng results, which may be more the differences in measuring devices and sites, study design or gene�c contribu�ons.

One major problem with interpre�ng the findings in studies of gendered skin differences is that there is no systema�c approach to determining gendered skin's pathophysiology. Study design and size, instrumenta�on, vivo or invitro, hormonal factors - all change the interindividual and intraindividual variability, making it difficult to come to a defining conclusion.

Notwithstanding, the difficulty in understanding gender-linked differences in skin physiology can help improve cosme�c treatments for specific gendered an�-ageing care via preven�on, repair and protec�on, and achieve skin smoothness, clarity and overall health.

Line-field confocal op�cal coherence tomography (LC-OCT) is a non-invasive op�cal technique recently developed for skin examina�on in vivo. It provides real-�me, high-resolu�on ver�cal images with an isotropic resolu�on of ~1 µm and a penetra�on depth of ~500 µm Line-held confocal op�cal coherence tomography (LC-OCT) is a non-invasive op�cal technique recently developed for skin examina�on in vivo. It provides real-�me, highresolu�on ver�cal images with an isotropic resolu�on of ~1 µm and a penetra�on depth of ~500 µm.

While most of the references cited are, in the primary, original papers that reported the finding, we know so well that more recent findings are 'fine-tuning' details, and much more is to come with more advanced technology. APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

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Australasia’s Premier Event for Non-Surgical Aesthetics Join us on the sunny Gold Coast for 3 days of world-class educational content and 2 incredible social events.

TOPICS INCLUDE: • Advanced uses of toxins and fillers • Periorbital rejuvenation • Lower face and jawline rejuvenation • Ethnic difference • Complex cases from my Practice and how to approach them safely • Photography, bias and ageing • Beauty vs attractiveness - differentiated treatment approaches

SEE WEBSITE FOR SCIENTIFIC PROGRAM AND TO REGISTER

nonsurgical.org.au EVENTENQUIRIES Conference Secretariat The Production House Events nss@tphe.com.au +61 3 8374 3814 APJ 35

BOTANICAL INGREDIENT

EDELWEISS – Defying resilience for survival Tina Viney

IT WAS THE END OF 1965 WHEN THE WORLD was first introduced to the heart-warming story of the Von Trapp Family, one of the world’s best-known concert groups in the era immediately preceding World War II through the incredible movie known as The Sound of Music. While ini�ally doub�ul as to how well it would be received, it became the number one movie at the box office and within a year and a half, it had replaced Gone With The Wind as the highest-grossing film of all �me. It was also the first to earn more than $100 million at the box office.

One of the movie’s highlights was the beau�ful song Edelweiss.

This amazing flower with its resilience and determina�on to survive during perilous �mes, was the perfect symbol of the struggles the Von Trapp family endured as they were challenged and refused to betray their Austrian heritage and submit to the invasion of Nazi Germany and the dictatorship of Hitler and the Third Reich.

Considered the queen of alpine flora, the Edelweiss, which grows high in the Alps is also regarded in Switzerland at the na�onal symbol. Through the decades, this humble li�le flower has fascinated poets, songwriters, and scien�sts about its incredible power to overcome adversity and its unique combina�on of chemical compounds. Celebrated as an icon of courage and bravery, its beauty and strength have fuelled a living legend that says that men who needed to show their love had to venture into the treacherous high peaks to find an edelweiss flower to take to their beloved.

UPDATES ON THE EDELWEISS The edelweiss is a species that belongs to the Asteraceae family and its botanical name is Leontopodium alpinum. Its apparent fragility hides an incredible resilient flower, which is able to survive at heights of more than 3000 metres and withstand the extreme temperatures of alpine mountains. It only grows naturally at heights over 1500 metres on limestone walls and slopes, or on rocks on terrains that are considered the most barren and hos�le in the world subjected to extremely cold weather and ferocious APJ 36

winds, while also scorching hot summers with li�le protec�on, as a result of the high al�tudes and lack of nearby vegeta�on.

The edelweiss grows up to 30cm tall and has thick and fleshy bracts, covered with a fine fluff. It is white in colour with greenish or yellowish tones. It hides under the appearance of a single flower (between 1.5-10cm in size), but in reality, it consists of a set of �ny flowers that have evolved and grow as a group to survive.

The central yellow elements are capitula, where both male and female flowers are grouped; and what appears to be white flowers are bracts structures that protect it during its development. A vegetable fibre protects it from frost and ultraviolet radia�ons.

The edelweiss blossoms between July and September and its leaves can be white, grey or slightly yellow. It originates from the area of the Austrian and Swiss Alps, and is na�ve to the European mountain regions, however, its habitat extends from the Carpathians to the Pyrenees, but it can also be found in some very high mountain rangers in Asia, such as the Himalayas.

UNIQUE CHEMISTRY The edelweiss aerial parts contain leontopodic acid, typical of edelweiss and one of its most abundant components (Schwaiger, S. et al, 2005), and a large amount of chlorogenic acid. It has flavonoids (luteolin and its deriva�ves, traces of apigenin and its glucoside deriva�ves), tannins, phenolic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, terpenes, bisabolene deriva�ves, phenylpropanoids and sitosterol (Dweck, A.C., 2004: Schwaiger, S.et la, 2006).

COSMETIC PROPERTIES Edelweiss is mostly used in cosme�cs, due to its mul�ple benefits from its chemical cons�tuents. Their unique composi�on assists the skin to slow down the effects of ageing. It has an�oxidant, an�-inflammatory, relaxing and purifying proper�es, and can protect the skin from solar radia�on (it absorbs UV rays).

In essence the edelweiss offers three key skin benefits. These are – an�oxidant, an�-inflammatory and an�-bacterial ac�vi�es.

Here are further details: An�oxidant ac�vity: The an�oxidant ac�vity of edelweiss and its components has been confirmed in several studies. Leontopodic acid is a novel highly subs�tuted glucaric acid deriva�ve from edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum Cass.) and its an�oxida�ve and DNA protec�ng proper�es. The word leontopodium comes from the Greek leon lion + podion, meaning lion’s paws (from the shape of the flowers).

Leontopodic acid is well studied confirming its an�oxidant proper�es. Especially the aerial part of the edelweiss which has in vitro protec�ve effects against induced oxida�ve reac�ons. The results from a study by Costa, S. et al (2009) showed that this compound protects cells against the consequences of exposure to toxic agents, with an an�oxidant effect. However, there are numerous other studies that also support this.

Other studies also confirmed the an�oxidant effec�veness of chlorogenic acid, a compound present in the flower. Bouayed, J. et al (2007) verified that in vitro, this acid protected granulocytes from induced oxida�ve stress. In 2009, A.R. et al also observed the an�oxidant capacity of a phenolic factor containing chlorogenic acid, protects the DNA from in vivo induced oxida�ve damage.

2004 Dobner, M.J. et al wanted to verify its an�-inflammatory ac�vity. In his study, the an�-oedema of the aerial parts of the plant were analysed when applied topically on an induced derma��s. Results showed an important reduc�on of oedema, which confirmed the an�-inflammatory ac�vity of edelweiss and its components. Further studies also came to the same conclusion.

An�bacterial ac�vity: The an�bacterial and purifying ac�vity of edelweiss and its components was analysed by Dobneer, M.J. et al (2003). The results showed inhibitory concentra�ons against various Staphylococcus aureus, Enterococcus faecium, Escherichia coli, Pseudomanas aeruginosa, Streptococcus pneumoniae and Streptococcus pyogenes. Therefore, Edelweiss is very useful to cosme�c formula�ons for its purifying and an�bacterial ac�vi�es.

CONCLUSION The analysed parameters through various studies clearly show that leontopodic acid directly reduces the produc�on of reac�ve oxygen species, increased cell viability and intensifies the ac�on of glutathione peroxidase, an enzyme that helps reduce the concentra�on of ROS. In consequence it is confirmed that edelweiss, due to its significant leontopodic acid content, is highly useful for cosme�c products for its an�oxidant and an�-ageing ac�vi�es, both for face and body. It is also suitable for photoprotec�ve products. APJ

An�-inflammatory ac�vity: In tradi�onal medicine, edelweiss has been used as an an�-inflammatory for years, and for this reason in

ACTION

ACTIVE INGREDIENT

COSMETIC APPLICATION

An�oxidant

Extract Leontopodic acid Chlorogenic acid

An�-ageing An�oxidant Photo-protec�ve Protec�ve of hair coloura�on

An�-inflammatory

Extract

An�-Oedema Soothing and calming

An�-bacterial

Extract

Purifying An�-microbial

APJ 37

STAR PERFORMER

ROCCOCO BOTANICALS LAUNCHES THREE DELICIOUS JELLY MASKS

DURING COLD WINTER MONTHS the skin o�en suffers from dehydra�on, not to men�on skin irrita�on from the frequent use of facial masks that we are required to wear. So Roccoco have come to the rescue with the launched of their ROCCOCO JELLY MASKS in three amazing varie�es that will deliver instant hydra�on boost.

just 50 grams of powder needed compared to the standard 75 grams for other alginate jelly masks to get the same result, making them fantas�c value for money.

ROCCOCO JELL MASKS are infused with berries, cherries, and fresh herbs such as chamomile and calendula. The jells also contain real petals and seeds for a stunning visual display, while delivering instant and intense hydra�on and an incredible and memorable sensorial experience that your clients will absolutely love.

2. Forest Fruits

HOW THEY WORK Rich in vitamins, essen�al fa�y acids, and an�oxidants, Roccoco’s advanced translucent jelly masks also combine sucrose and alginates to provide incredible hydra�ng results that will last for days. Forming a vacuum on the skin through a thin but strong transparent film the masks enhance the delivery of serums into the skin, sealing in the ac�ves and increasing the hydra�on levels of the epidermis. Sucrose not only enhances hydra�on levels it also delivers instant so�ness leaving the skin feeling and looking refreshed.

Rich in sugar molecules and containing the strongest superior jelling alginate available, these masks are applied super thinly, yet have the strongest hold for a jelly mask, being able to be removed in one single piece - no more messy and uncomfortable mask removal experience.

Jelly Masks are also suitable to be applied over the eyes and mouth if required, especially if the eye area needs brightening or the lips are dry. These transparent jelly masks will increase hydra�on of the skin by a massive 140%, both instantly and for days a�er the treatment. As moisture is bound into the skin, it will also increase skin elas�city minimising the appearance of lines and wrinkles and leaving the skin refreshed and revitalised.

Roccoco Jelly Masks only required to be applied super thinly with

APJ 38

Available in 3 op�ons: 1. Calendula

3. Acerola Cherry Calendula Mask also contains Chamomile and Cornflower providing soothing and an�-inflammatory benefits for sensi�ve and inflamed skins and is also suitable for rosacea and inflamed acne skin condi�ons. This mask will soothe and reduce redness, refining pores, while scars will appear less visible.

Forest Fruits Mask is rich in vitamins, essen�al fa�y acids, and an�oxidants. It contains raspberry, cranberry, and strawberry (with visible strawberry seeds). This ultra-hydra�ng mask alleviates dull and �red complexions. Cranberries naturally rich in salicylic acid, detoxifies the skin and smooth irregulari�es of the skin. This mask is perfect for skins exposed to highly polluted areas, due to its detoxifica�on proper�es.

Acerola Cherry Jelly Mask is rich in acerola pulp, a na�ve fruit to South America. Renowned as one of the richest sources of vitamin C as well as high in carotenoids - a vitamin A, precursor.

The mask is also rich in bioflavonoids, niacin and an�oxidants that will revitalise dull and aged skin and brightens the complexion, while lightening the appearance of pigmenta�on.

The ROCCOCO JELL MASKS contain over 30 different ac�ve compounds in herbs, including caffeic acid, chlorogenic acid and ru�n. They do not contain any phthalates or parabens. These vegan jelly masks are the perfect finish to any skin treatment. APJ For these and other leading ROCCOCO BOTANICAL SKINCARE contact 07 3807 1429 www.roccoco.com

www.roccoco.com

roccocobotanicals APJ 39

BUSINESS

SOCIAL MEDIA DURING A PANDEMIC Trish Hammond

ISN’T IT INCREDIBLE how much social media has influenced our lives? It’s also incredible how this crazy pandemic has influenced our lives. It has certainly made it clear that nobody is immune to this huge a�ack that has affected many industries, including aesthe�c businesses with the constant change and an almost insecure future. It seems that we are constantly in transi�on from one crisis to another.

I am si�ng here thinking to myself on how we can keep the lines of communica�on open with our clients, our friends, and the things that ma�er to us, especially while we are locked up and unsure as to how long it will be, or if it will ever be any different.

WHAT CAN YOUR BUSINESS DO WHEN IT IS LOCKED DOWN? It doesn’t get any easier when we get locked down. The uncertainty and unsurety can be emo�onally draining and can leave you in a state of “what the heck do we do now?”

We recently posted on social media what I think is the best quote, and it keeps coming to my mind with a tune to a song… “I GET LOCKED UP, BUT I GET UP AGAIN, AIN’T NOTHING GONNA BRING ME DOWN.” So, what can we do? How can we keep in touch? How do we remain sensi�ve to people's individual circumstances?

Well, there are a few ways you can use social media during a pandemic. Always remember that people will forget what you did, but they will never forget how you made them feel, and we all know how we feel is so important now. Here are a few points to help you along:

while they are locked down or unable to do the things that make their heart sing.

SOCIAL MEDIA IN BUSINESS Social Media in business is really about connec�ng with exis�ng and poten�al clients. It’s about becoming an expert in your niche.

Here are three WHYs that will help you to leverage marke�ng poten�al in your business with social media: •

Helps Build Your Brand

•

Reach your Target Audience

•

Ge�ng Conversions

HOW TO STAY AWAY FROM THE FAKE NEWS What relevant informa�on should you share with others? What's the best medium for communica�ng with others? There are social media channels that can help provide answers to ques�ons and lend credibility to statements made elsewhere. Make sure you are following the official social media accounts of the Australian Govt related to COVID. Watch news, read ar�cles, follow pages, read the tweets, and be responsible for sharing things based on facts. It has become very important to stay up to date with the latest updates from the world of healthcare, commerce, and educa�on because these are directly related to our own personal wellbeing and security.

KEEP YOUR CLIENTS INFORMED Make it easy for clients to work with you during a pandemic by staying in touch using your social media. Keep it real. Keep it personal. Authen�city is key in these �mes. If you are closed, is the phone being answered by a person, not a voice message?

•

Get involved in the conversa�on as soon as it begins.

•

Make sure you are following news updates and par�cipa�ng in the communi�es engaged by those who are managing the shared informa�on.

Keep an eye on what your clients are up to and stay up-to-date with what they need, this is how you establish trust and credibility with your clients.

•

Use social media as an opportunity to promote your own business or product. There will always be people who need products and services during a crisis, and these people should have access to it sooner rather than later.

•

Time to think about the “How-To” videos, or the “At-Home” packs. If you’re not already, maybe it’s a great opportunity to start phone or zoom appointments.

Understanding how social media works during a pandemic can also help you figure out what messages would be most effec�ve at keeping them engaged. A�er all, social media has the power to spread informa�on fast and help keep everyone involved in the conversa�on.

Now’s the �me to KEEP IN TOUCH! Social Media has an unbelievable impact on people’s interac�ons, habits, and their lifestyle. Never doubt the power and benefits of social media. In these difficult �mes there are many people who only have social media as their mode of communica�on with the outside world,

APJ 40

Yes, social media during the pandemic can be tricky. Stay posi�ve, be aware of the risks, but keep in mind there are always opportuni�es. APJ If you need help managing your social media, or just need an audit on how to get the most out of your social media, get in touch with me today trish@thepinkroom.com.au

ADVERTORIAL

THE LAUNCH OF A NEW SKINCARE BRAND

LAUNCHED IN SEPTEMBER 2020 IN THE MIDDLE OF THE PANDEMIC Hydromerse Skin Recovery System is fast gaining popularity despite the current lockdowns.

The owner of the company, Graham Stevens had a dream to introduce an amazing skincare line with incredible func�onality and benefits and so Hydromerse was borne. We spoke with Graham recently about his new venture.

APJ Q1: GRAHAM, TELL US ABOUT THE PRODUCTS THAT YOU HAVE DEVELOPED AND HOW THEY COME ABOUT? Our first product we created was the Hydromerse Skin Recovery System. It is a “sheet-free” hydra�ng and cooling skincare mask that can be applied to any part of the face or body. It won’t slip nor slide off as it has a unique two-step applica�on method - the Hydromerse gel which cools, hydrates, soothes and refreshes the skin, and the spray which ac�vates an outer layer barrier and seals the hydra�ng gel in place, exactly where you want it to be. We designed Hydromerse to be flexible for clinics to use and sell as a mask that can be worn before, during, or a�er an aesthe�c procedure with the rest taken home by the client for con�nued use between visits, or as a stand-alone product for sale in the clinic whenever someone wants a hydra�on boost.

The idea for Hydromerse was born a�er I had an in-clinic skin treatment that le� my face feeling very hot, dehydrated, and uncomfortable. I looked for something to apply and couldn’t find anything on the

market that would cool, soothe, while also hydrate my skin, and stay in place if I was sat up or walking around. I wanted something I could use at home a�er an aesthe�c procedure that allowed me to con�nue in my daily tasks without slipping off my face.

APJ Q2: HOW IS HYDROMERSE SKIN RECOVERY APPLIED AND WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS IT OFFERS? Our Skin Recovery System can be applied in the clinic and by the client at home using a silicone applicator. The benefit for both the clinician and client is that the gel mask stays in place with our unique barrier technology. It hydrates, cools, and soothes the skin and there is no sheet mask to throw away. It can be applied where it is needed most. The spray seals in the gel mask meaning it doesn’t dry out on the skin and can be worn as long as required. It is also oil free, silicone-free, colour-free, fragrance free, ethoxylate/ parabens and sulphate free so there is no poten�al irrita�on.

APJ Q3: WHAT SKIN-TYPES AND CONDITIONS WOULD BENEFIT FROM THIS TREATMENT? It is suitable for all skin types, those concerned with dry skin, fine lines, wrinkles, and redness. It is also great as a hydra�ng mask for men as from experience sheet masks don’t stay in place if you have a beard!

APJ Q4: WHAT INGREDIENTS ARE IN HYDROMERSE SKIN RECOVERY AND IS THE PRODUCT AUSTRALIAN-MADE? Hydromerse Skin Recovery contains Hyaluronic acid (2%), Glycerine and Menthyl Lactate to cool and soothe the skin. It is proudly Licenced Australian Made and Owned and Cruelty Free. It is also Vegan.

APJ Q5: WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR THE REST OF THE YEAR? We are excited to announce that we are also launching six new Cosmeceu�cal skin care products – for in clinic and home use. All these are made in Australia and cruelty free too.

Hydromerse Cosmeceu�cals are specially formulated using some of the most nourishing and regenera�ve ingredients to help combat the ageing process, incorpora�ng bio-ac�ve botanical extracts together with pep�des and potent nutrients to minimise the effects of ageing. We also offer all salons and clinics that purchase Hydromerse, tailor-made social media posts to co-promote their business for free. We strongly believe that working together we can achieve more via partnering with clinics.

APJ Q6: WHERE CAN YOU FIND OUT MORE ABOUT HYDROMERSE SKIN CARE? For further informa�on on Hydromerse you can contact Graham Stevens 0478 032 628, grahamstevens@hydromerse.com or our website is www.hydromerse.com We are also ac�ve on Instagram, Facebook @hydromerse and also have a page on LinkedIn.

APJ 41

ADVERTORIAL

RadianiX® Sublingual Glutathione

SUPPORTING SKIN HEALTH AND THE NATURAL BODY’S DETOXIFICATION PROCESS IF YOU ARE TREATING SKIN CONDITIONS you most likely are confronted with melasma and pigmenta�on – these are stubborn skin condi�ons that manifest due to hormonal changes in the body or photo-ageing of the skin caused by repeated exposure to the sun's UV radia�on. UV radia�on causes excessive produc�on of melanin, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone.

protec�on from the skin’s biggest threat - oxida�on. As an an�oxidant, glutathione can reduce skin damage from stresses such as sun exposure, before it creates pigmenta�on and dark spots.

While you may be addressing these condi�ons through various technologies and techniques including laser, peels and topicals, you can now also maximise your treatment results through a complementary, evidence-based internal approach using glutathione, considered one of the most effec�ve ways to support skin health. So how does glutathione work and why is it so important?

Studies have shown oral glutathione resulted in the lightening of skin colour. Interes�ngly, subjects aged more than 40 years old experienced more pronounced skin brightening.

Usually, this age group suffered more photodamage from cumula�ve sun exposure.

Another study showed glutathione’s ability to improve wrinkles and increased skin elas�city (an�-ageing effect).

THE MASTER ANTIOXIDANT Glutathione (GSH) is known as the master an�oxidant. It works directly as a freeradical scavenger. Another benefit of glutathione is that it boosts the u�lisa�on and the recycling of other an�oxidants such as vitamins C and E, alpha-lipoic acid and CoQ10.

The primary purpose of glutathione is APJ 42

SKIN LIGHTENING AND THE ANTI-MELANOGENIC EFFECT When it comes to pigmenta�on, glutathione can provide posi�ve benefits. This is because glutathione has proven an�-melanogenic effects by s�mula�ng pheomelanin synthesis rather than eumelanin synthesis, resul�ng in lighter skin pigmenta�on. Most ar�ficial depigmenta�on chemicals act by destroying melanocytes, whereas glutathione protects the melanocytes via its an�oxidant proper�es.

Glutathione works by interrup�ng melanin synthesis switching from Eumelanin (dark) to Pheomelanin (light) melanin, bringing skin back to its fairest tone.

GLUTATHIONE (GSH) AND IMMUNE SUPPORT Several studies also confirm that individuals with severe GSH Synthetase deficiency show an increased suscep�bility to bacterial infec�ons due to a lack of glutathione. The produc�on of ROS during phagocytosis results in the death of neutrophils, CD4+ T cells, being oxida�ve damage to the pa�ents’ immunity.

Deple�on of GSH also inhibits macrophage ac�vity. The lymphoid cells also depend on op�mal glutathione level. On the other hand, some immune cell func�ons (T-cell prolifera�on, lymphokine-ac�vated killer cells and natural killer cells), are sensi�ve to glutathione deple�on. Hence, the immune system may be sensi�ve to a deficiency or excessive glutathione. Glutathione supplementa�on should be given daily in op�mal doses to replenish the intrinsic glutathione and maintain glutathione homeostasis.

Therefore, glutathione is also great news in suppor�ng the body’s immunity.

GLUTATHIONE AND BIOAVAILABILITY In a healthy person, the intracellular level of glutathione is between 1-to-2 mM, plasma level of 2 mM and brain level of 1– 3mM. For deple�on levels of glutathione especially in older adult, oral administra�on may be used to boost levels. However, effec�ve delivery of glutathione is o�en a problem. This is because the gastrointes�nal tract is hos�le to glutathione where the intes�nal enzymes hydrolyse the tripep�de structure, while undergoing first pass liver metabolism, resul�ng in an incredibly low, oral glutathione bioavailability. While glutathione can be administered via injec�on, this can only be delivered by a medical professional or prescribing nurse.

RadianiX® a technology known as WaferiX, a new advancement where glutathione is delivered by sublingual wafer purposemade to dissolve under the tongue in approximately 30 seconds for rapid absorp�on of glutathione into the blood circula�on.

The WaferiX technology improves bioavailability by bypassing intes�nal degrada�on and the first pass metabolism. It penetrates the mucosa via passive transport through the mucosa cells or around the cells into the blood circula�on. Studies showed a rapid sublingual absorp�on, glutathione Tmax at 30 to 60 minutes a�er oral-mucosa administra�on.

If you would like to stock RadianiX® and for further informa�on and pricing, you can contact En�ty Health.

The introduc�on of nutri�onal supplements that support and op�mise skin health and wellbeing are one of the fastest growing categories in salon and clinics. Today’s consumers are seeking a stepped-up level of care that goes beyond basic skincare to also boost overall energy levels and immunity. Glutathione is highly supported through extensive evidence-based research studies valida�ng its an�oxidant capabili�es as a free-radical scavenger that boosts the u�lisa�on and the recycling of other important an�oxidants such as vitamins C and E, alpha-lipoic acid and CoQ10.

WHY YOU SHOULD STOCK RadianiX®?

If you are currently trea�ng clients with pigmenta�on, or for improving overall skin health and ageing skin this is the perfect complementary take-home treatment to further support their result. A�rac�vely packaged for daily sublingual delivery, RadianiX® has become a popular supplement due to its efficacious delivery of glutathione and its incredible benefits. It is easy to use as it simply dissolved under the tongue in approximately 30 seconds.

RadianiX® is now available to salon and clinics. By introducing it to your clients you will be offering an addi�onal layer of support to enhance your skin treatment results, as well as op�mising your clients’ overall wellbeing. APJ

Chrissy Cunningham or Jeremy Dalton 03 9737 4333 ausorders@en�ty-health.com

APJ 43

SKIN TREATMENTS

DIVERSITY IN SKINCARE What does it mean?

Dr Tiina Meder

AUSTRALIA, BEING A MULTICULTURAL SOCIETY means that we are made up of a diverse range of ethnic groups. While most of our clients are probably Caucasian, and indeed, our training in most instances has predominantly consisted of working on Caucasian skin types, but the need to understand how skins of colour differ is an important considera�on, for the purpose of risks and limita�ons, especially when trea�ng them.

In this ar�cle renowned dermatologist Dr Tiina Meder, discusses some of the presented issues when working with skins that would be classified as Type IV or V on the Fitzpatrick scale.

We must accept that all early research on cutaneous anatomy and physiology were performed mostly on white popula�on, so the basis of many skincare formula�ons has been focused on this fundamental issue, but this is progressively changing. When we are speaking about skincare rou�ne or the choice of a moisturiser, by default, we are using principles and ideas of the past, based on this limited knowledge about the human skin.

Meanwhile, dark skin types have certain fundamental differences to white skin and not just colour, there are other factors to consider that must be carefully assessed, especially if we are providing skincare services.

When it comes to makeup or colour cosme�cs, the issue is a visual one that will require that we colour match to ensure appropriate product choice. However, when considering skincare needs the considera�ons are not so obvious. So, let’s take a closer look at how coloured skin differs from white skin.

New research is elucida�ng similari�es and differences in skin of colour and white skin with regards to skin barrier, skin sensi�vity, pigmenta�on, regenera�on, and scarifica�on and even in transepidermal drug delivery.

MELANIN AND THE ETHNIC DIVIDE When it comes to skin colour the number of pigmented cells or melanocytes remain rela�vely constant in all types of skin. But melanocytes in the darker skin are larger, more dispersed and contain much more melanin, which is less easy to destroy comparing with a Caucasian skin. Also, melanocytes in dark skin are more sensi�ve to all kind of s�mula�on and we also find that tyrosinase - the enzyme responsible of pigment synthesis - is more ac�ve, so cells can easily produce addi�onal new pigment when s�mulated. Therefore, individuals with a Fitzpatrick phototype IV and higher are more suscep�ble to post-inflammatory pigmenta�on (PIH) that can result from different aesthe�c procedures, such as chemical peels to hair depila�on, etc. It is important to note that skin irrita�on, inflamma�on, minor mechanical trauma�sm, skin injury or the use of poten�ally irrita�ng cosme�c products can easily lead to hyperpigmenta�on and uneven skin tone in darker skin types.

Addi�onally, pigment loss such as hypopigmenta�on can occur, but this is less frequent. In terms of risk considera�ons, it is important to note that clients with dry and sensi�ve skin are at high risk of reac�ons, and dark skin is predisposed to dryness more than Caucasian.

As a rule, dark skin is more fragile than white skin, this is contrary

APJ 44

to the prevailing opinion over many years by the cosme�c industry that believed that dark skin is more resilient, and that white skin was more fragile. For example, trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) is higher in the darker skin, the rate of desquama�on of cells in the epidermis is lower, resul�ng o�en in the dryness, high sensi�vity and even xerosis, which increases with age.

Some cosme�c ingredients such as glycolic and salicylic acid at very low strength may be used in daily skincare for the purpose of preparing the skin for a chemical peel or for lightening the skin, but this category of products must be recommended and supervised by qualified and experienced prac��oners and clients must be carefully assessed and observed during their use.

HIGH RISK OF PIGMENTATION

IN SUMMARY

All ingredients that have a poten�al to cause significant irrita�on or dryness when applied to the skin can cause pigment altera�on in dark skin and must be avoided. The most common topical agent associated with this type of problem include benzoyl peroxide, re�noids, salicylic acid, and glycolic acid.

The huge problem for us is that the majority of the cosme�c industry uses products that have been formulated predominantly for Caucasian skin. For example, have you ever seen any warnings on products containing salicylic acid or re�noids sta�ng: “increase the risk of hyperpigmenta�on in case of the dark skin”? Even, with products formulated for clinic use, these warning are o�en not men�oned. This is something that needs to change because the lack of appropriate warnings can be detrimental to a growing community of people of colour and many are already suffering of unexpected and completely avoidable side effects with the use of certain cosme�cs.

Another popular skin lightening agent, hydroquinone can also irritate dark skin and even lead to the development of ochronosis (a persistent blue-black pigmenta�on) especially in prolonged use by people with skin phototype higher than Fitzpatrick Type IV. The same problem can occur with resorcinol, which is some�mes included in cosme�c products.

TREATING MELASMA AND ACNE The treatment of melasma and acne is always the challenge because the choice of treatments, especially of peeling agent, is limited. Superficial peels can be used for the treatment of skin condi�ons, but even medium-depth peels need to be used with extreme cau�on, and deep peels must not be used at all due to the high risk of complica�ons and side effects.

Poten�ally harmful ingredients for dark skin types can be seen in all categories of products: cleansers, toners, serums and concentrates, creams, and emulsions, exfoliants and masks and even in makeup founda�ons and primers, without any no�ces of precau�on. Addi�onally, they also apply to an�-ageing skincare, as well sun protec�on products, but within this category, it is less about harm and more about a wiser choose of product.

When trea�ng skin condi�ons please also take note of your client’s ethnic background, as this may help you avoid poten�al complica�ons. APJ

APJ 45

STAR PERFORMER

INTRODUCING MEDER BEAUTY CIRCA-NIGHT CREAM The first night cream for sleepless nights

WHEN YOU DON’T SLEEP ENOUGH, it impacts your energy levels, mood, and your skin. Recent studies have established that lack of sleep a�acks skin health and its appearance in several ways. One study confirmed that even one sleepless night can reduce the skin’s moisture levels, and in 50% of cases it caused so much damage to the protec�ve barrier that the skin started to flake and itch. Lack of sleep disrupts microcircula�on, dulls the complexion, reduces elas�city and expands the pores making them more visible. Sleep depriva�on affects the skin’s ability to restore and protect itself. People who sleep well are less suscep�ble to UV damage, and their skin can recover from injury much faster, for example, post laser resurfacing, chemical peels and even surgery.

It would be great if everyone could get a good sleep every night, but it’s not always possible. New mothers and parents of teenagers, students and pensioners, millionaires and unemployed — all of us suffer from sleep depriva�on at one �me or another. In 2020 the global health crisis caused major stress to all and made sleep depriva�on even more common. We may not be able to avoid some sleepless nights, but we can help protect our skin from their nega�ve effects.

PRESENTING CIRCA-NIGHT OVERNIGHT RESTORATIVE BIOHACK CREAM FOR ALL SKIN TYPES Circa stands for circadian and reflects the way the cream works - ac�ve ingredients affect the circadian mechanics of skin changes. Even if you are restless or barely sleeping at night Circa-Night Cream will kick-start the restora�ve processes that occur in the skin when you are sound

APJ 46

asleep. Circa-Night Cream affects skin cells by aligning skin metabolism with healthy circadian rhythms and preven�ng cell stress and premature ageing. Sleep depriva�on has a selec�ve impact on cell func�ons - fibroblasts in the deeper skin layers con�nue to produce collagen and elas�n but fail to arrange them in three-dimensional structures in the absence of special chaperone proteins. The state of deep sleep ac�vates chaperone proteins. Lack of sleep will inhibit collagen and elas�n forma�on leading to the face looking �red and pale.

DISCOVERY OF METABIOTIC FROM SWISS GLACIERS: The effect of sleep depriva�on on the skin is hard to balance, but amazingly an ancient microorganism dormant in the ice for thousands of years, can help us. A new bacteria strain, lodobacter ssp, discovered in the glaciers of the Swiss canton of Valais, where Meder Beauty Science Lab is situated.

These molecules can ac�vate the 3D arrangement of structural proteins in the skin and restore the synthesis of chaperones, which decrease with age and lack of sleep. IceAwake, a new ingredient based on these bacteria, can postpone the appearance of wrinkles, and support the skin’s elas�city. Addi�onally, this metabio�c can restore the healthy synthesis of ATP, the cell energy currency in the mitochondria and launch the skin’s restora�ve process.

NATURAL SOY PEPTIDES: Lack of sleep disrupts the synthesis of type I collagen, one of the key markers of ageing. Young skin is firm and elas�c due to large contents of type I collagen, but with age, it is replaced by less organised and elas�c proteins. As the produc�on of type I collagen diminishes, this will contribute to the skin thinning and looking �red. Circa-Night Cream is enriched with a complex of glycoproteins HRGPs derived from natural soy extract to restore collagen synthesis at night regardless of sleep quality.

PROBIOTIC FROM THE INDIAN OCEAN: To support and enhance the effect of metabio�c Ice-Awake® and soy pep�des, the Circa-Night Cream formula was strengthened with an epigene�c ingredient of bacterial origin, probio�c Sirtalice® derived from the ice-cold waters 3.5 km deep within the Indian Ocean. Probio�c Sirtalice® ac�vates the synthesis of type I collagen protein precursors, while blocking the produc�on of harmful enzymes that destroy collagen and elas�n. But, the most important effect of Sirtalice® is its ability to instantly launch the synthesis of ATP - the energy generated by mitochondria in skin cells.

SHEA BUTTER ENRICHED WITH VITAMIN B5: African shea bu�er is added for its beneficial lipids to restore skin protec�on and vitamin B5 to support against inflamma�on, reduces irrita�on, and restores the skin’s ability to regenerate at night. Circa-Night Cream helps align the skin metabolism with healthy circadian rhythms, preven�ng stress-related changes and premature ageing even if you don’t get enough sleep. APJ To introduce CIRCA-NIGHT to your clients, contact MEDER BEAUTY SCIENCE 0466 338 844 admin@beautyscience.com.au mederbeautyscience.com.au

At Meder Beauty Science, We Believe That Mandatory Measures Need to Be in Place in the Beauty Industry to Achieve a Professional Standard for Success.

We are looking for YOU, but are you looking for US? TAKE THE TEST! Are you dealing with product waste?

Are you looking for something to fill a void?

Are you currently rewarded for your loyalty?

Are you �red of compe�ng with every other clinic?

Are you looking for products that are clinically proven?

Are you looking for a product that produces instant results?

Are you wan�ng something that has no animal tes�ng history?

Are you looking for a company that doesn't compete with you?

Are you ready for a Professional brand that is ahead of its �me?

Are you ready to enhance your results and increase your income?

Are you looking for a product with natural refined ac�ve ingredients?

Are you �red of compe�ng with department stores selling your brands?

Are you looking for a brand with products your clients can't live without?

Are you able to measure your product "Return on Investment" accurately?

Are you using an award-winning global brand that has a proven track record?

Are you looking for a brand that has won awards against the beauty industry giants?

Are you wan�ng a product with unique packaging, locking in all the ac�ve ingredients?

Are you aware MEDER is the world's first “Clinically Proven Pre & Probio�c” skincare?

Are you ready to make a difference in your clients' lives and increase your customer base?

Are you looking for something unique that gives you the opportunity to be first to market?

Are you wan�ng to introduce "Targeted Professional Products" to meet your clients' needs head-on?

Are you aware that Australians & New Zealanders have been buying MEDER from overseas un�l now?

Are you looking for a globally established high-end professional product new to the Australian market?

Are you struggling to find a high-end product with flexible buy in op�ons and requires minimal outlay?

So how did we measure up?

Are YOU looking for US? If you are ready to make a change or looking for a high-end Professional Cosmeceutical ...Ask yourself...

Are YOU the next

STOCKIST? 0466 338 844

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APJ 47

BUSINESS

GAINING THE WINNING MINDSET TO SUCCEED IN A CHANGING WORLD Tina Viney

FEAR AND ANXIETY HAVE AN INCREDIBLE ABILITY TO PARALYSE our thinking and restrict our ability to iden�fy solu�ons and resolve problems. This is because fear puts us in a ‘fight and flight’ mode and all we want to do is escape. While this may be appropriate for an immediate threat, it is not the state of mind we need to remain in if we want to resolve on-going or long-term challenges.

The world as we know it has changed forever. So has the way we need to do business. Experts agree that there are s�ll opportuni�es for business survival and even growth, but we need to be open to new ideas, revisit our business model and be flexible to change. This does not mean rearranging a couple of things in the way we do things it is more fundamental than that – it requires that we gain a new way of thinking and perceiving our changing world in order to iden�fy new op�ons that may serve us be�er.

All new ideas originate in the brain through thought processes.

Gaining a be�er understanding of how our brain works when it comes to conceptualising and solve problems wisely can be very useful, especially when we are seeking to iden�fy changes that will serve us be�er.

At our recent Aesthe�c Conference, I discussed the two key modes of thinking - linear and lateral - and how we can benefit by tapping into both modes and u�lising them efficiently to make wiser and more produc�ve decisions. In this ar�cle I will share these principles and trust they can help maximise your poten�al in making well thoughtout and wise decisions during these challenging �mes.

HOW WE MAKE DECISIONS As a rule, we usually make business decision based on the analysis of informa�on we possess through specific, logical criteria. This informa�on is o�en obtained through educa�on we have completed, or supplier training through companies we engage with. We introduce a product or a technology into our business and we undergo training on the appropriate methodology, policies and procedures of how to use the piece of equipment or skincare appropriately. This process is called ver�cal or linear thinking and usually directs us to a predicable outcome of how we think and perform a task.

APJ 48

Studies are now iden�fying the value of processing informa�on and making decisions based on the principles of lateral thinking.

This mode of thinking can lead us to outcomes that are more crea�ve, original and less predictable allowing us to carve our niche though a more unique business model that can provide us with a strong compe��ve advantage.

In challenging �mes, we aim to excel by becoming a specialist at what we do. However, it is now considered a dangerous presupposi�on that we only need to specialise in the one thing we do and remain ignorant of what other services are all about and how they can appeal to our client-base. In terms of a mindset, that is considered ver�cal or linear thinking, but we also need to understand and appreciate the value we can gain from the lateral thinking perspec�ve, so let’s compare both and see what benefits each mode can offer us and how working efficiently with both modes can help us achieve new and be�er ways of making decisions.

WHAT IS LATERAL THINKING? Lateral thinking is solving problems through an indirect and crea�ve approach, using reasoning that is not immediately obvious and involving ideas that may not be obtainable by using only tradi�onal step-by-step logic.

The term lateral thinking was introduced in 1967 by Dr. Edward de Bono. a Maltese physician and psychologist who defines it as a technique of problem solving by approaching problems indirectly at diverse angles instead of concentra�ng on a single approach.

Lateral thinking is the ability to use your imagina�on to look at a problem in a fresh way and come up with a new solu�on.

Successful business managers usually draw on lateral thinking skills to solve problems by u�lising innova�ve ways to keep their team engaged and on track with their performance. They achieve this by using surprise elements to mo�vate them to remain produc�ve. In essence, lateral thinking requires that you think outside the box through approaches that are o�en illogical and unconven�onal. Here is an example. A manager is seeing that the team is star�ng to exhibit signs of irritability, disconnect, clumsiness and an inability to remain focused on their goals resul�ng in a drop of produc�vity. While she iden�fied signs of fa�gue and clumsiness, she realises she needs to immediately

implement a strategy that will change this dangerous trajectory and bring the team back in line. This is what she does.

She announces to the staff that they she will close the business for 30 minutes and take them across the road to the tavern for a quick drink together and a bite to eat. During that �me, she acknowledges that she recognises that the team is stressed with all the pressures they are confronted with. She individually affirms each staff member for their strengths and abili�es and a�empts to enhance their team morale by reinforcing trust and confidence in their ability to pull through the challenges they are facing. She also affirms that she wants to ensure that all their posi�ons of employment are retained. She finishes by saying, “I have every confidence in all of you that together we can pull through this.”

This approach could be considered completely opposite to a tradi�onal one of ‘performance reviews, and please explain your reason for a lack of produc�vity’, but it sends a powerful message to the staff that their human frailty is taken into considera�on and while it has contributed to a hiccup in produc�vity, the manager has chosen to focus on recognising their strengths and restoring their confidence to rise to the challenge and achieve their goals.

This is lateral thinking.

LINEAR OR FOCUSED MODE OF THINKING So how does Linear thinking differ? Linear thinking is based on logic, rules and ra�onality (or sustained reason) to solve a problem.

Linear thinking is also known as ver�cal, or focused mode of thinking. This is how you operate when you are concentra�ng intently on something you are trying to learn, solve or perform.

While cri�cal thinking is also linear it is more sophis�cated or advanced as it goes one step further. It requires us to pull things apart, ask ques�ons, inves�gate analyse and cri�cally appraise.

We are encouraged to examine all the evidence and seek addi�onal resources and informa�on before reaching a conclusion.

Linear thinking uses logic as the key driver. This mode of thinking is important when we want to perfect a skill. It is based solely on logic and evidence-based informa�on. While this mode of thinking is the most reliable when it comes to gaining educa�on and qualifying for a profession, it o�en leaves us short with some of life’s challenges.

DIFFUSED OR LATERAL MODE OF THINKING In comparison, the diffused or lateral mode of thinking springs into ac�on when our brain is in a relaxed state. This is when you are unconsciously thinking of the problem you are trying to understand or solve. Even when you step back from a problem and not think about it, the thought can s�ll be running in the back of your mind unconsciously as you go about your day.

It is in this relaxed state that your brain is free to wander around, explore and make new poten�al connec�ons between ideas and concepts that already exist. In this parasympathe�c state the brain creates new neurons expanding your ability to recognise addi�onal pathways of thought. For example, have you ever gone to sleep with a problem and the next morning without thinking about it suddenly the right answer just pops up?

So, how do you develop your ability to also think laterally? Studies confirm that exercise and sleep are wonderful ways to switch your mind into the lateral or diffused mode of thinking. Both help the brain develop new neural pathways which help you understand and retain informa�on effec�vely. Please also note that this is why taking breaks is so important, especially if you are feeling stuck. A break away from work mode is not necessarily lost �me.

Distancing yourself from a challenge or a problem can actually serve you in allowing the brain to iden�fy ways of perfec�ng your skills sets as well as improving your performance. Remember that with your staff as well. It will re-energise them and improve their produc�vity.

WHY WE NEED BOTH For effec�ve learning or crea�ve decision to be made, your brain needs to constantly be able to go back and forth between these two modes — grappling with and trying to understand or solve a problem in the linear mode, while stepping back from it for a �me.

This will allow the brain to relax and assimilate ideas and form new connec�ons between related concepts in the background. In doing so, it will help you see the problem from a big picture perspec�ve.

You can then switch back to the ra�onal or linear mode — where you can then gain more detailed informa�on from these newly formed connec�ons and build on top of them.

APJ 49

HOW WE LEARN IN OUR PROFESSION Essen�ally, when we study to enter our profession, we are presented with concepts and ideals and then encouraged to systema�cally apply that knowledge through specific steps, policies and procedures that are designed to help us achieve an outcome. This strictly involves linear or ra�onal thinking. As a result, we learn to trust the Linear thinking mode, because it has led us to gain knowledge and develop our skills. There is no doubt that most of us operate through a linear dominant thought process.

While linear thinking is the preferred mode for learning, once we move into applying our professional knowledge, and even more so when establishing a business brand and determining our compe��ve advantage, this is where the importance of lateral thinking is cri�cal. This is because lateral thinking can provide us with the flexibility to solve problems through an indirect and crea�ve approach, while remaining in linear mode can help us do tasks well, it can also keep us persistent and inflexible to necessary changes we need to make. Here are four benefits how lateral thinking can help us in this present �me: •

Alterna�ves: It can allow us to iden�fy new concepts that breed new ideas.

•

Focus: It can help us sharpen or change our focus to improve our crea�ve efforts.

•

Challenge: It can help us to break free from the limita�ons of outdated or predictable ways of thinking and doing things.

•

Originality: It can help us iden�fy new concepts that can make us unique, original and more compe��ve.

I am sure most of you invest in your ongoing learning. Once you graduate, much of what you con�nue to learn involved the applica�on of technology and treatment methodologies, or protocols. While this informa�on is invaluable and essen�al, your compe�tor have probably gained the same informa�on when using similar technology or products as you have, so how can you compete and what is your point of difference? You need to find ways that you express what you do and how your brand will differ in philosophy or culture. You will need to shape your brand in a way that reflects who you are and will a�ract the clientele who can resonate and trust your values and philosophy.

THE CHAMELEON SYNDROME The Chameleon is a dis�nc�ve and highly specialised group of lizards with over 202 species that come in a range of colours.

They have been endowed by nature to be able to change their colour in order to protect themselves from predators. In a bed of grass their skin turns green, but when they are on the earth, they take on the colour of their environment and become brown. This camouflage aids in their survival.

Now let’s consider - during the introduc�on of the first lockdowns what was our number one priority? Was it not our survival from the virus? We were warned to social distance, retreat from contact with others for our own safety and survival. We took �me out to re-evaluate our priori�es, our safety and our direc�on. I know that many stated how they enjoyed the quieter pace of life and the focus on safety and survival. However, once we returned to our businesses, we need to become aware of how our clients have changed, how the world has changed and how we also need to step out and do things differently in order to move forward. We need to guard against the Chameleon syndrome of just blending with our environment and the status quo, instead of innova�ng and embracing change.

BE CLEAR ON YOUR AIMS Another important area of considera�on is to make sure you are clear on your aims. If you have implemented certain changes and you gradually evolve your brand to have a different focus, you need to make sure that these changes are clearly structured and

APJ 50

ar�culated. Guard against being vague about these changes, you need to gain clarity about what now are your aims and strongly pursue them.

If we reorientate our percep�ons, clearly define who we are and what we stand for, we will enhance our probabili�es to get what we want out of life, but we need to be deadly serious about what our aims are and then pursue them.

PRINCIPLES FOR REDEFINING YOUR BRAND As you review what changes you will be implemen�ng it is useful to run a quick check on three specific areas that you will find defined in Michael Gerber’s book The E-Myth Enterprise. Gerber’s business methodology is now highly validated and is even taught at university. In brief the three skillsets that make up a successful business are: •

The Entrepreneur – this skillset is required to establish the overall concept of the business brand, the services it will provide, the business model, the concept and the direc�on.

What will it look like and who will be the target market it will focus on?

•

Manager – once this is defined the role of the manager is to establish the systems that will implement and introduce the business concept – policies and procedures, rules and regula�ons, account and record-keeping systems, progress evalua�on systems, stocktaking spreadsheets, staff interview processes and staff development and educa�on, client interac�on, consent form, feedback forms, client communica�on processes, social media, website, payment transac�on methods, etc.

•

Technician – who will be the excep�onally skilled person who is dedicated to safety and technical excellence in delivering the service? How will they update their skills, stay current and perfect them?

Now truthfully consider your own strengths in these three areas?

Be ruthlessly honest about what you love and are good at and what you are not so good at. The areas where you lack skill or passion are the areas in which you need to hire others. There is common tendency for business owner to hire people who are just like themselves, leaving the business at a loose end in the area they are weak in.

If you tolerate pu�ng systems in place, but find it boring, access documents from your associa�on where experts have put these together for you. (APAN has over 50 resource documents and kits), or hire a “detail” person who loves systems and order. Don’t hire an entrepreneur that may compete with you and want to constantly implement new ideas, while failing to put the right systems in place to help strengthen and streamline opera�ons.

On the other hand, you may be an amazing prac��oner but you lack sufficient entrepreneurial capabili�es to iden�fy your op�ons.

Focus on strengthening your lateral thinking ability to allow you to iden�fy new opportuni�es. If you are s�ll struggling, don’t feel bad about it, we are rarely strong in all three areas. Either hire someone, or consult with a person who is skilled in the area you are weak in. If you are an APAN member please book a mentoring session with me and together we can brainstorm to discover op�on for moving forward. It’s that simple. Don’t struggle on your own – reach out to us, help is available and we are here to support you.

Finally, I encourage you to look at change as your friend. With the right skills you can iden�fy ways of moving forward. While this is just an introduc�on to this topic, please know there are answer for all your problems and experts who can help. APJ

BUSINESS WISDOM

BUILDING YOUR BRAND PRESENCE Deb Farnworth-Wood IT IS WELL DOCUMENTED that 80% of women will purchase from a well-known brand over a bou�que or niche one – a scary sta�s�c for the small business owner who generally doesn’t have the same large figure marke�ng budget. It is also a noisy world out there with the average consumer poten�ally hit with thousands of marke�ng messages every day. So how does the small business stand out in the crowded marketplace and what can you do to ensure you are seen and heard?

Believe it or not, small businesses can have several compe��ve advantages over larger brands. For one, smaller businesses tend to be more agile. Big brands usually have complex corporate structures where decisions must make their way through the chain of command. They also rely on feedback from mul�ple loca�ons to inform their strategies and o�en need to market to a wider demographic, which in turn requires more content and more strategies.

Small businesses have the flexibility to offer a more personal service and be more accommoda�ng. They also tend to be be�er informed about the local marketplace and are in a be�er posi�on to react quickly to market changes.

For a small business, in a service environment, word-of-mouth is by far the most cost-effec�ve marke�ng mechanism.

If your team is delivering quality treatments, with effec�ve client outcomes and five-star service, then word of mouth referrals should be easy to come by. The trick of course, is ge�ng the team to ask for referrals and then to treat every new client as though they are their only client to ensure they keep coming back. “Refer-afriend” cards are a great reminder to your clients to let their contacts know about your services. You may wish to consider a client reward for the referral, but some clients may be embarrassed about receiving a free treatment in return for a

recommenda�on. I find that most people are willing to do a favour for others - especially when they have provided a great customer experience for them. My preference is to hand the client two business cards and simply ask them to pass them on to any friends, family or colleagues who may need your services.

Many businesses owners see marke�ng as a “chore” that needs to be carried out from �me to �me when they need more clients, but one way or another it should be a part of your everyday work. That said, the following six tasks should feature on your quarterly review checklist: 1. Review your Google Places lis�ng – how does it compare to your compe�tors? Have you added any new services onto the lis�ng? Do your photos reflect your business fully and are your contact details and opening �mes current? Bing also has a places directory - luckily for those with an endless to-do list, it can be set up to pull automa�cally from Google Places.

2. Review your website – is it current, modern, up to date and does it speak to your intended clientele? Is it easy to navigate and does your menu structure make sense?

Does it load quickly? Does it allow easy online booking? Does it clearly provide all the informa�on your poten�al clients are looking for?

3. Review your social media – are you pos�ng regularly with good quality content? Are you responding to enquiries quickly and engaging with your audience? Is your bio up to date? Are you adap�ng to new ways of interac�ng on social media?

4. Review your exterior signage and in-house display and marke�ng materials - Is it all in pris�ne condi�on? Is it current, clean and does it represent your business in the best light?

5. Review your database – are you making the most of your client and contact lists and are you regularly reaching out with professional-looking, relevant content?

6. Review staff presenta�on – are your staff wearing uniforms and if so, are they looking worn or fresh? The way staff present themselves is par�cularly relevant in the aesthe�c industry. A neat, polished appearance gives your clients confidence when seeking treatments.

Over the years I’ve seen some terrible marke�ng blunders. A salon that �ed its signage to a wheelie bin to stop it blowing over, salons with broken leaflet holders stuck to their windows, half peeled off s�ckers on windows, out- dated and shabby signage, branded posters for products they no longer sell and even filthy front doors, run-down wai�ng areas and stained uniforms. All of these give a clear message about the business … lack of care and lack of relevance in an industry that is all about the aesthe�c.

Finally, monitoring the success of your marke�ng efforts is vital. Do you have a system for capturing and following up on enquiries and then measuring your success at conver�ng those enquiries into sales? Without this, a business owner could be pouring money down the drain without the ability to assess whether their marke�ng dollars are being used wisely. APJ

APJ 51

SKIN TREATMENTS

OPTIMISING COLLAGEN AND ELASTIN INTEGRITY FOR SKIN HEALTH Tina Viney

WHILE INJECTABLES CAN ACHIEVE INSTANT LIFTING AND VOLUMISING OF THE SKIN there is s�ll much that can be done through regenera�ve skin therapies to support collagen and elas�c integrity.

Several years ago, I was interviewed for a TV produc�on. During the filming I was asked to explain the difference between skin therapies, injectables and surgery in just three minutes. While this was a challenge this is how I answered them.

Imagine your face is a pillow, the pillowcase is your skin, and the filling represents the deeper skin layers, fat, muscles, and bones that support the pillowcase so it remains smooth and snug. Now imaging over progressive use that the pillow filling becomes fla�ened, what would happen to the pillowcase? It would become loose.

WHAT IS COLLAGEN? Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body and makes up around 70-80% of the dry weight of skin. It is found in connec�ve �ssues, such as car�lage, tendons and fat. It is also found in skin, bones, organs and eyeballs as well as hair and nails. Collagen in joints is what helps us move smoothly without feeling bones grate against each other. Collagen provides your skin with structure. In visual terms, collagen can be related to the “glue” that binds many of your body parts together. The name collagen even derives from the Greek word, “kólla” which literally means “glue.”

There are around 28 different types of collagen in the body. Each type contains a slightly different sequence of amino acids or pep�des, which determines the specific role and func�on of that type of collagen in the body. Of the 28 types, five of them make up the majority, with Types I, II and III included in the most popular supplements on the market.

So, we have three op�ons to correct this: •

We could cut the pillowcase and resize it so that it can once again fit the pillow nice and snug – that is what plas�c surgery does, it removes excess skin and �ghtens and remodels the skin to fit the face that is experiencing volume decline.

•

We could add extra padding to the pillow to increase its volume and resize the shape of the pillow to resemble its original state – that is what injectable fillers will do. They will add volume to sunken, or loose areas of the face.

•

Or we could beat and fluff the pillow to reac�vate its volume, so it regains its original shape – that is what skin therapies using various techniques and technologies a�empt to do, they s�mulate the skin to behave more youthfully.

While hyaluronic acid and other volumising substances are introduced to the skin via injec�ons, skin therapies a�empt to s�mulate the body’s own physiology. This involves strategies to s�mulate the components that are responsible for volume and skin smoothness, and these are in larger percentages collagen and elas�n. Gaining a be�er understanding of these structures will allow us to determine how best to regenerate them.

APJ 52

Type I Type I collagen makes up about 90 per cent of the collagen in our body. Almost every �ssue of your body contains Type I collagen, including tendons, skin, bones, car�lage and connec�ve �ssues.

Densely packed fibres wound into a triple-helix structure comprise this type. Its unique shape gives these structures their incredible strength and elas�city. As Type I collagen degrades, an increase in wrinkles, fine lines become more apparent and loss of elas�city star�ng to manifest.

Type II Type II collagen is found primarily in car�lage. While its structure is also a triple-helix, it has more loosely packed fibres. Type II provides the cushion in the car�lage for your bones and joints.

TYPE III This type of collagen is o�en found alongside Type I. It makes up muscles, organs, arteries and some connec�ve �ssues in the liver, spleen, blood vessels, and internal organs, including the uterus.

Type IV Type IV collagen doesn’t form a fibrous triple-helix structure like Types I, II, and III. Instead, it creates a web-like pa�ern. This type

makes up the thin layer outside the cells, giving the cell structure.

It’s also found in the skin, liver, kidneys and other internal organs.

Type V This unique type of collagen helps form cell surfaces and hair. It’s also required to form the cells that create a pregnant woman’s placenta (aka your baby’s life support in the womb).

WHY IS COLLAGEN IMPORTANT FOR THE SKIN? Collagen essen�ally acts as the support structure – or scaffolding for the skin. It’s what keeps skin firm and plump, and gives skin the ability to retain moisture. Just picture a baby’s so�, rounded cheek – it looks nice and juicy because it’s full of collagen. Star�ng around the age of 25, our bodies stop producing as much collagen which eventually leads to a loss of volume and firmness. Skin that was once plump and firm can look dry, flat and papery. Think of the difference between a toddler cheek and that of an 80-yearold.

Collagen also plays a vital role in wound repairs such as skin gra�s and second-degree burns. Collagen a�racts cells, such as fibroblasts and kera�nocytes, to the wound, which encourages debridement, angiogenesis, and re-epithelialisa�on. In addi�on, collagen provides a natural scaffold or substrate for new �ssue growth.

WHAT CAUSES LOSS OF COLLAGEN? As we get older, our bodies don’t produce as much collagen. It is es�mated that the skin loses 1% of its collagen every year star�ng in the mid-thir�es and then its loss increases more rapidly.

According to dermatologist Dr. Ohara Aivaz, women, can lose up to 30% of their collagen produc�on in the first five years of menopause.

Collagen loss can also be accelerated by smoking, the sun, pollu�on and a poor diet. As collagen produc�on dips, the connec�ve �ssue between the skin becomes thinner and the layer of fat underneath it becomes more visible, leading to cellulite on the body. On the face, the skin can become thinner and more fragile, and wrinkles may be more visible. Hair and nails can become weaker and joint pain may become more no�ceable.

According to The Cleveland Clinic, as collagen levels decrease with age this not only leads to wrinkles and crepey-looking skin but also s�ffer, less flexible tendons and ligaments, as well as shrinking and weakening of muscles. Joint pain or osteoarthri�s may occur due to worn car�lage, along with gastrointes�nal problems due to thinning of the lining in the diges�ve tract.

WHAT IS ELASTIN AND HOW DOES IT RELATE TO COLLAGEN? Elas�n is what gives skin its “bounce back” property, as the name implies. Similarly, to collagen, elas�n is made up of fibroblasts, pep�des and amino acids. Its rubber-band like nature is essen�al in helping us convey expressions. According to the University of Leeds, elas�n is what makes �ssue recoil a�er being stretched, just like a rubber band – but elas�c fibres are five �mes more extensible than an elas�c band. Like collagen, elas�n is a protein that is found in the body’s connec�ve �ssue. It is found in the skin as well as the lungs, intes�nes and artery walls. As elas�n levels decline, skin can wrinkle and sag.

Collagen and elas�n are o�en men�oned together as they are jointly responsible for the skin’s firmness and shape, but they have different func�ons. As we know, the dermis consists of a thick layer of fibrous and elas�c �ssue, made mostly of collagen, with a small but important component of elas�n that gives the skin its flexibility and strength.

While both collagen and elas�n are similar, they do have their differences. Collagen is produced by the body con�nuously (although levels decline with age) while the body creates elas�n mainly during the foetal stage. Another key difference is that collagen is a fibrous protein, while elas�n is a protein that has the ability to stretch and return to its original form. According to several studies, elas�n is substan�ally more flexible than collagen.

Put another way, collagen makes skin plump while elas�n makes it pliable.

The natural ageing process can take its toll on elas�n cells that can become damaged over �me due to wear and tear and natural degrada�on. This means that the skin will no longer be as capable of bouncing back into posi�on, and this causes the forma�on of

APJ 53

lines and wrinkles especially around the upper face – eyes, forehead, and the mouth where it is more abundant during our younger years, allowing the skin to be flexible when we express ourselves.

CAN COLLAGEN LEVELS BE STIMULATED? There are three ways that we can support our collagen and elas�n levels. These are: •

Preventa�ve measures

•

Skin treatment procedures, skincare formula�ons and injectables

•

Diet and lifestyle

PREVENTION It’s not just ageing that can have a nega�ve effect on collagen and elas�n. Other lifestyle habits and environmental factors also play a role, including: Smoking – smoking can seriously damage blood vessels, which means they can deliver less nutrients and oxygen to your skin, causing collagen and elas�n to break down more quickly. The act of smoking itself also causes your lips to pucker, and over �me this will lead to wear and tear of the elas�n around your mouth, causing lines and wrinkles to develop.

UV Damage – Too much sun, without sufficient sun protec�on and in par�cular, UVA protec�on, can contribute to rapid deteriora�on of both collagen and elas�n. On-going sun exposure can contribute to severe deteriora�on of collagen and elas�n fibres resul�ng in deep seated wrinkles and a leathery skin that manifest as premature ageing.

While several technologies can contribute to reviving and s�mula�ng collagen and elas�n, without appropriate skin protec�ve measures these treatments will be counterproduc�ve.

SKIN TREATMENTS FOR STRENGTHENING COLLAGEN AND ELASTIN There are several procedures that work on a cellular level to help support collagen and elas�n produc�on. As elas�n is intertwined with collagen fibres to form the collagen-elas�n network we can use technologies to s�mulate both at the same �me.

Microcurrent One effec�ve technology that is experiencing a comeback is microcurrent. So how does it work? Microcurrent has a wide variety of incredible benefits. It is primarily sought out for the reeduca�on of facial muscles, muscle tone and natural contouring.

The reason that it can achieve this is because of its ability to increase Adenosine Triphosphate (or ATP) levels through a mild electrical current?

As we age, we produce less ATP and ATP produces the energy that fuels the cell’s ability to make collagen and elas�n. With a less consistent produc�on of ATP, the body is unable to replace the damage being done and to revive our collagen and elas�n.

However, in order to build collagen, we need ATP. Every muscle group u�lises energy for movement. This movement is derived in the form of ATP. The energy from ATP is used to reset the myosin. Myosin is the motor, ac�n filaments are the tracks along which myosin moves, and ATP is the fuel that powers movement. For muscles to contract they need energy, that energy comes from the nutri�on we feed our body, but the immediate source of myosin energy comes from the ATP. Microcurrent facial treatments not only increase ATP by up to 500% and protein synthesis by up to 73%, but also increases fibroblas�c ac�vity by up to 60% and membrane transport (cell

APJ 54

permeability) by 30-40%. In addi�on, clinical studies consistently show that microcurrent also increases blood circula�on by 35%.

Microneedling As we know, microneedling creates �ny pinpricks in the skin causing slight injury. The skin responds to that injury by making new collagen-rich �ssue. This new skin �ssue is in turn, more even in tone and texture. According to a 2008 study, skin treated with four microneedling sessions spaced one month apart, combined with the applica�on of vitamin A and C considerably increased collagen and elas�n produc�on up to a 400% six months a�er comple�ng the treatment. The controlled skin injuries produced by microneedling send the skin into a repair mode that triggers the body to produce new collagen, as well as elas�n, improving the skin’s elas�city. Microneedling also encourages the growth of fibroblasts, epithelial and endothelial cells, which can equate to a more even skin tone and a healthy glow.

IPL and Laser Treatments IPL Photo-rejuvena�on works by penetra�ng deeply into the skin to s�mulate new collagen growth and to promote the shedding of damaged �ssue. Independent clinical research has shown that treatment with IPL at low energies can increase collagen produc�on by 42% in one treatment. It works by introducing intermi�ent pulses of laser light to the skin. This light passes through the upper layers of the skin, which in turn leaves the healthy �ssue unharmed. New collagen is produced, which in turn allows for the skin to undergo a marked improvement.

It’s important to understand that IPL therapy boosts collagen produc�on in several ways, which in turn makes it incredibly useful to older individuals that may suffer from ageing skin.

The first way destroys undesirable collagen structures. This allows the body to ini�ate the healing process, which in turn allows it to s�mulate collagen produc�on.

The second way is by encouraging blood flow to treated areas. The excess heat is absorbed by the surrounding �ssue. While this heat tends to be insufficient to cause damage, it does cause the blood vessels to expand. This results in an increased blood flow, which in turn ensures that collagen can be produced at an increased rate.

The last major way involves the other effects of ini�a�ng the body’s repair process. Once the old, less dense collagen structures are removed, the body tends to be be�er able to produce new collagen cells a�er the new �ssue has been created. This results in a general improvement to the firmness and texture of skin for a prolonged period following successful IPL therapy.

When it comes to laser therapy, the growth of collagen and elas�n can be s�mulated through the use of intense wavelengths of light and ultrasound. This energy triggers a natural response under the skin, jump-star�ng the regenera�ve process that produces fresh, new collagen.

LED Light Another light source that can s�mulate collagen and elas�n is LED, especially the far and near infrared light, which acts on fibroblasts that are responsible for collagen and elas�n produc�on. Red light also reduces skin inflamma�on, and this ac�on enhances skin regenera�on.

The combina�on of technologies used in conjunc�on with evidence-based skincare ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, re�nol, vitamin C, a diverse range of pep�des, niacinamide, Coenzyme Q10, aloe vera and ginseng can substan�ally support skin rejuvena�on by strengthening collagen and elas�n produc�on.

Collagen and Elas�n and An�-wrinkle Injec�ons In trea�ng the effects of collagen and elas�n loss, and preven�ng this loss from occurring, an�-wrinkle injec�ons can be one of the quickest and most efficient solu�ons. This is because these injec�ons will temporarily relax the muscle and the �ssue that control facial movement in par�cular areas. This means that forming expressions will be more challenging, as the muscles are in a very relaxed state. This allows the skin to repair and reset, smoothing out areas of lines and wrinkles.

Collagen supplements claim to help ease joint pain, slow muscle loss and promote heart health along with improving the skin.

A 2014 study in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, excerpted in the Na�onal Centre for Biotechnology Informa�on, gave a group of women aged 35-55 oral collagen pep�des. At the end of the study, skin elas�city in both groups showed a sta�s�cally significant improvement in comparison to placebo. A�er four weeks of follow-up treatment, a sta�s�cally significantly higher

skin elas�city level was determined in the more mature women.

A new study has found that mul�ple injec�ons of Restylane filler was able to temporarily remove lines by literally filling them in.

Addi�onally, it was found that injectables can s�mulate the skin to produce more collagen and strengthen the skin, elimina�ng sagging and wrinkles. Other reputable injectables are Radiesse and Ellanse also delivered similar results.

DIET AND NUTRITION When it comes to diet, nutri�on and lifestyle, we know that these play a large part in collagen and elas�n skin improvement. The skin is nourished by oxygen and nutrients delivered to the dermis via our blood vessels.

However, others are scep�cal about oral collagen supplements as there is concern as to whether stomach acid breaks down the collagen proteins before it can reach the skin. One concern is that collagen molecules are too large to be absorbed into the bloodstream. Some companies “shrink” the size of collagen, with the concept that it becomes more easily absorbed by the body.

But cri�cs of supplements point out that consuming collagen doesn’t mean it gets converted into more collagen in our skin.

Even if the collagen makes it past the gut into the bloodstream, you cannot control where it ends up. As much as you’d like the collagen to focus on your face rather than your joints, it may not.

According to Healthline, food like chicken skin, pork skin, beef, and fish are excellent sources of collagen along with foods that contain gela�ne, such as bone broth.

PREVENTION IS EASIER THAN CURE One of the most important ways to care for exis�ng collagen and elas�n is to protect their deteriora�on from the sun’s damaging rays. This means wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen every single day, no ma�er what the weather forecast is predic�ng. An�oxidants in serums and creams can also help.

Powerhouse ingredients such as vitamins A, C, E, as well as green tea and pomegranate work by blocking the damage caused by free radicals, which a�ack collagen and elas�n.

What about supplements?

Collagen supplements are one of the fastest growing industry.

They are available as powders, pills, and drinks that are o�en called “elixirs.” The collagen is usually derived from fish, pigs, and cows and can include animal by-products such as skin or bones.

IN CONCLUSION The most effec�ve way of protec�ng and s�mula�ng collagen and elas�n is by incorpora�ng an approach that includes preven�on, protec�on, and treatments where all strategies work synergis�cally to achieving the best possible outcome. APJ

Collagen is produced naturally in the human body. The body produces collagen by combining amino acids that are found in protein-rich foods, like beef, chicken, fish, beans, eggs and dairy products. Collagen produc�on is also supported by nutrients such as vitamin C, zinc and copper.

APJ 55

STAR PERFORMER

Leading solutions for FACE AND BODY ISSADA is a renowned clinical-strength cosmeceu�cal formula�on with a strong brand iden�ty that is fast growing in recogni�on and popularity. It provides proven and consistent treatment results, excep�onal profit margins and amazing company support for its partners. The range offers treatment solu�ons for face and body, as well as an excep�onal high quality mineral makeup range. We profile two of its latest product innova�ons.

Collagen+ Support Serum Issada’s Collagen+ Support Serum is supercharged with vegan-friendly collagen sourced from seaweed rather than derived from animals as is the case with many tradi�onal formulas.

This concentrated formula has harnessed the potency of just four pure, high-quality ac�ve ingredients – Hyaluronic acid, Vegetable Collagen, Vitamin C and Radish Root. The plant-based Marine Collagen works to strengthen and repair the skin’s natural collagen and elas�n, while an�oxidant vitamin C and hydra�ng Hyaluronic Acid brighten, plump and moisturise restoring the skin’s vitality.

Radish Root acts as both an an�inflammatory and a natural preserva�ve in line with Issada’s clean cosme�c promise.

Collagen+ Support Serum is ideal for dull,

dry, ageing, sun-damaged or pigmented skin and is suitable for all skin types,

APJ 56

including sensi�ve and acne-prone.

Bio-Slim Cellulite Treatment While cellulite is completely normal for more than 90% of women and we firmly support anyone who embraces it, for those who do wish to visibly reduce its appearance and tone the skin, Issada has formulated a powerful breakthrough cream, Bio-Slim Cellulite Treatment.

Bio-Slim contains an armoury of potent ingredients to reduce the appearance of cellulite in a mul�tude of ways. Longan Fruit Seed Extract inhibits the PAI-1 Protein, which is increasingly produced as we get older. This decreases the forma�on of blood supply to adipose �ssue, where lipids are stored. Bio-Slim Cellulite treatment will decrease the appearance of lip deposits by up to 69%.

The inclusion of amino acid Threonine assists in breaking down fats so that the body can metabolise and excrete them more easily.

The formula also includes the botanical extracts Laminaria Digitata (a type of seaweed also known as Oar Weed), Fucus Vesiculosis (Sea Oak) Horsetail, Hedera Helix and Cucumber. The ac�ve combina�on of ingredients support fat metabolism, fluid reten�on and collagen produc�on to reduce the appearance of cellulite and visibly firm the skin.

Addi�onally, Bio-Slim Cellulite Treatment can be used immediately post-treatment a�er Cryolipolysis/Fat Freezing treatments and is essen�al for any homecare rou�ne posttreatment.

Issada is trusted and is trusted by 250+ professional salons, clinics and spas throughout Australia, at their two Brisbane studios and online at www.issada.com APJ

07 3904 2288 www.issada.com

A completeapproach to beautiful skin

MINERAL MAKEUP+ CLINICAL SKINCARE Throughpure,high-quality, talc-free mineralmakeup and advanced cosmeceautical skincare,Issada are commited to complete skinhealth.

Formulated with clean, active ingredients to achieve flawless resultsfor every skintype, Issada is the ultimate addition to professionalaesthetic practices.

BECOME A STOCKIST To learn more about how Issada can benefit your spa, clinic or professional salon, please call 07 3904 2288 or visit issada.com/partners

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APJ 57

AUSTRALIAN

MEMBER PROFILE

THE CEO THAT IS DRIVING CHANGE THROUGH A UNIQUE BUSINESS MODEL IN EACH ISSUE OF APJ we love to share inspira�onal and heartwarming stories of an APAN member and in this issue, we had the pleasure of speaking with Carol Morgan, CEO of Cosme�c Skin Therapies, a cosme�c medicine franchise.

We hear of these ripple effects, and that’s exactly what happened when I spoke up. Australia had only recently passed laws making sexual harassment illegal, and my case was one of the first in Australia to test the newly minted laws.

Carol is an advocate for change and is making a difference in the evolving cosme�c medicine and aesthe�cs industry. She exudes that perfect combina�on of gravitas, warmth, and passion that comes with following what she believes in - in crea�ng a company from grassroots. Her smile lights up the room, and she has one of those unique blends of determina�on combined with absolute authen�city that have seen her succeed throughout every stage of her career.

Against the odds, I won my case which went on to set legal precedent. Many people approached me to share that they had similar experiences and to thank me for speaking up. My small teenage voice helped achieve a change in the system for good. It was, and s�ll is, one of my proudest achievements.

Here we share with you Carol’s journey, her contribu�on to developing a new franchise business model that challenged the cosme�c medicine industry, and how she is leading the way when it comes to having a voice and advoca�ng for Registered Nurses (RNs) na�onally.

Cosme�c Skin Therapies (CST) is the cosme�c medicine franchise that is changing the status quo through its unique business model that is offering prac��oner-flexibility, while ensuring pa�ents op�mal value, care and safety. Even though she is not a skin therapist or cosme�c nurse herself, Carol with the support of her expert team, has pioneered and is the CEO of a unique business model with the RNs in mind to ensure they have safe, flexible businesses, while s�ll achieving their personal, financial and lifestyle goals.

APJ Q2: WHAT HAPPENED FOLLOWING YOU WINNING YOUR CASE? Throughout the trial itself, there was a lot of media coverage and public interest which was quite overwhelming for a teenage girl!

The a�en�on was generally posi�ve, and I was approached by the board of directors at BHP who loved my determina�on, courage, and ethics (their words not mine at the �me!). I received a 'telegram' from the CEO of BHP Petroleum (BHPP), offering me a posi�on and I subsequently spent the next 10 years of my career working at BHPP. I o�en look back with pure joy at that pivotal moment that helped launch my career and shaped me as a leader. I feel very privileged to have worked with such visionary leaders and mentors that I s�ll admire today. I didn’t start at BHPP with the idea that I would one day be running departments single handedly and spearheading organisa�ons, but that’s what happened as a result of the quali�es that BHP originally picked up on - my determina�on, courage and ethics.

Carol's story starts at the very early age of just 16, in Victroria.

APJ Q1: CAROL, TELL US ABOUT YOUR EARLY YEARS? When I was 16, as a school leaver, I ini�ally entered the working world as a secretary. It was an experience that shaped the next three decades because, in that role, I was sexually assaulted by my boss and as such I resigned a�er six short weeks.

In 2010, it was �me for a fresh new challenge outside the corporate world. I was offered a posi�on in Rockhampton, working with the local government on a reclassifica�on project. It was a large, complex, and poli�cal project where I had to manage people's reac�ons to change, deal with the unions and work with external and internal stakeholders for the best outcomes.

The case was taken to court, and we had a public hearing. For me, it was a nerve-wracking experience for a host of reasons. First, I was just a teenage girl, fresh out of school and second, this was the 80s. Sexual harassment and assault in the workplace was just not spoken about.

What can I say?! Working with such a diverse group of individuals both internally and externally gave me some solid nego�a�ng skills! Let’s just say the project was extremely successful, and I like to think that my calm, methodical approach and innate people skills helped achieve the desired outcomes.

APJ 58

APJ Q3: WHY HAS CST CREATED A BUSINESS MODEL THAT IS SO VASTLY DIFFERENT FROM THE COSMETIC INJECTABLES AND FACIAL AESTHETICS INDUSTRY, AND ALSO THE CURRENT FRANCHISING BUSINESS MODEL? In 2015, I was introduced to Paul and Jennifer Roa�, and together we founded Cosme�c Skin Therapies. It was through Jennifer and Paul that I began to learn more about the world of cosme�c injectables and how challenging it can be for registered nurses in the industry. I could see that RNs really weren’t receiving the recogni�on they deserve and being a determined and courageous visionary, I began to formulate a plan.

We wanted to do things differently and challenge the status quo.

Over the course of my career, one of the things that became apparent was that I was par�cularly good at reviewing an organisa�on and iden�fying gaps and where to make improvements. In this instance it was an industry I was assessing, and I was concerned with what I came across.

Cosme�c Skin Therapies does everything differently. That was the plan five years ago when we launched it, and s�ll is today. Not only is our model beneficial for RNs, but also for any individual entering the franchising industry.

We offer a low entry point, transparency around supplier rates and rebates, a bespoke all-in-one, cloud-based treatment management system that covers pa�ent care and safety as well as everything our franchisees need to run their business.

In addi�on, the Cosme�c Skin Therapies model offers: • Flexibility around the clinic loca�on and working part �me versus full �me, something franchisees with young families love.

•

The op�on to pick and choose which of the core treatments franchisees offer in their own clinics, including Dermal Fillers, An�-wrinkle, Skin Needling, Threads, PRP, Medical Peels, KLaser, Fat Dissolving and IV and IMI Therapies

•

The flexibility to provide wider facial aesthe�cs treatments.

•

The ability to determine their own profitability by se�ng their own treatment and product pricing.

•

We have no marke�ng levy. Cosme�c Skin Therapies provides marke�ng and adver�sing to benefit all their franchisees.

•

Ongoing training, support, and mentorship

•

We are confident that Cosme�c Skin Therapies will remain as flexible as possible to a�ract the right franchisees.

APJ Q4: CAROL, YOU ARE ALSO A QUALIFIED AND EXPERIENCED COUNSELOR, HOW HAVE YOU FOUND THOSE SKILLS ADDING VALUE TO YOUR OWN ROLE MODEL AS CEO? I passionately believe that people are at the forefront of any successful business. Building and con�nuing to nurture your rela�onships, whether that is your team, network and even your suppliers, is essen�al, otherwise you will not succeed at business.

As a counsellor, you need to be present and hold space for others.

I’ve learnt that it is so important to listen and hear not only what is being said, but also what is not being said. The issues not being spoken about are the ones that need to be addressed. When I am with someone, I'm present and connected - whether it's my internal team, suppliers, or franchisees. If I am in a mee�ng, I am all there.

APJ Q5: AS A MASTER FRANCHISOR, WHAT DO YOU SEE AS YOUR CORE ROLE IN DELIVERING A SUCCESSFUL FRANCHISE NETWORK? I believe that a successful network is one that engages at all levels.

A key focus for me is developing the rela�onships with our franchisees further, to ensure we are delivering on what was promised and that our team all feel supported.

The thing I love most when interac�ng with our franchisees, is watching their faces light up because they get to do business on their terms. It's not just about making money. For many of our franchisees, it’s around flexibility and connec�ng with their pa�ents.

The team and I have spent the last five years refining systems, processes, building the right team members, having the right suppliers and of course guiding the network through COVID-19. I feel that the founda�ons have been set, and now we’re ready and able to handle exponen�al growth.

APJ Q6: FINALLY, CAROL WHAT IS YOUR VISION FOR THE FUTURE? I feel so passionate about what we have created at CST already and I feel like a kid at Christmas, full of excitement at what’s to come! Personally, I would love to con�nue being a voice for change in the cosme�c/aesthe�cs industry and push for equitable opportuni�es for Registered Nurses. I also want to demonstrate a need for change in the franchise industry, using CST's franchise model as a new way of doing franchise business.

My goal for Cosme�c Skin Therapies is to become synonymous with pa�ent care and safety. We are truly building a brand where pa�ents feel safe, seen, heard, and can have their treatments in a discreet clinical se�ng. These are concerns that come up �me and �me again in our industry, and we would like to lead the way with something different.

Finally, I feel strongly about building a brand that people trust.

When pa�ents visit a Cosme�c Skin Therapies clinic, we want them to feel and know that they are in good hands. Trust and honesty feature highly on our values list and we want the world to know about what’s possible. APJ To follow Carol Morgan and her journey for what she is pioneering and advoca�ng, please connect with her on LinkedIn and to find out more about the country’s best kept secret, visit www.cosme�cskintherapies.com.au

APJ 59

ESSENTIAL OILS

Innovative ways to use

Bergamot Oil

for mind, skin, and body Eva Boyd

AS A GENERAL RULE CITRUS OILS are purifying, but also contribute to a calming and relaxing effect on the mind, and without excep�on bergamot oil has some incredible benefits in these areas. In this ar�cle we will examine its nootropic effect on the mind and other ways that we can use it to support wellbeing and skin health.

Bergamot is a fragrant citrus fruit, that’s about the size of an orange with a yellowish-green blush. Similar to a lime, its gene�c profile is a hybrid of lemon and bi�er orange. This acidic and inedible fruit hails from a spiny tree called a citrus bergamia, which can be found in tropical climates in Southeast Asia, Southern Italy and the South of France. Blossoming in the winter, the fruit is cul�vated for its fragrant skin (not to be eaten) which is then typically pressed for its precious oil. The peel has a delicate citrus/ floral aroma that is sweet and spicy and is featured in a variety of perfumes due to its upli�ing and energising effect. You may also recognise its characteris�c flavour in Earl Grey tea.

In aromatherapy, the oil has proven upli�ing and energising effects, supports the central nervous system, soothes anxiety, and ameliora�ng over thinking. For the skin, it is beneficial for acne skin types due to its an�-bacterial proper�es and is also useful for mature skin for its ability to increase circula�on and regenerate the skin. Addi�onally, it also has several other health benefits.

CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS Bergamot Essen�al oil is composed of various chemical cons�tuents including a-pinene, myrcene, limonene, a-bergaptene, b-bisabolene, linalool, linalyl acetate, nerol, neryl acetate, geraniol, geraniol acetate, and a-terpineol.

According to a study from 2010 published in the Journal of Chemistry and Chemical Engineering, the oil has around forty-six compounds. However, the authors concluded that fi�een compounds account for 98.52% of the oil. The oil was characterised by a high content of limonene (59.21%), linalool (9.51%) and linalyl acetate (16.83%).

HOW DOES BERGAMOT BENEFIT THE NERVOUS SYSTEM? Among other things bergamot is also known to exhibit nootropic effect – this is an important one. Nootropics are a classifica�on of

APJ 60

smart drugs that are considered cogni�ve enhancers. They are also found in supplements and other substances that claim to improve cogni�ve func�on, par�cularly execu�ve func�ons such as memory, crea�vity, or mo�va�on in healthy individuals.

These substances provide a range of benefits that allow for increased mental performance, endurance, balance, and even higher levels of awareness and crea�vity. Addi�onally, studies confirm that nootropics can poten�ally provide protec�on from neurodegenera�ve diseases.

Highlighted below is a closer look at the nootropic effects of bergamot essen�al oil and how this fragrant substance can increase mental capacity.

STRESS RELIEF Stress triggered in the body does have benefits, by aler�ng us to danger and allowing for increased focus, and even fuelling incredible feats of stamina and endurance. On the other hand, prolonged periods of elevated stress can begin to have the opposite effect.

Cogni�ve func�on can be severely hampered by stress-induced anxiety that can also contribute to mood disorders. When this happens, the mind can no longer maintain its composure and resilience. Fears, worries, and feelings of inadequacy lend their weight to the stressful outlook, which nega�vely affects focus and even short-term memory.

Studies confirm that bergamot essen�al oil is capable of interrup�ng the cycle of stress, restoring mental func�on and the capacity to focus. Aromatherapy using bergamot essen�al oil can also balance the mood and improve emo�onal responses.

Another important task of a good nootropic such as bergamot is its ability to maintain the func�on of neural pathways and keep the brain healthy. Today’s pressures and demands place an unprecedented strain on mental facul�es, and without protec�on, degenera�ve diseases can develop.

Oxida�ve stress is the medical term for damage caused by free radicals and has been associated with depression, heart condi�ons, cancer, Parkinson’s,and Hun�ngton’s diseases, as well as ageing in general.

Clinical evidence suggests nootropic effects of bergamot essen�al oil have the proper natural compounds to inhibit oxida�ve stress, especially in the spinal column. The same study also found bergamot essen�al oils have proper�es that can counteract the increased sensi�vity to pain caused by prolonged use of analgesics, called hyperalgesia.

A small 2015 study conducted on women in Japan found that inhaled bergamot oil mixed with water vapour reduced feelings of anxiety and fa�gue. Similarly, a 2013 study also reported that aromatherapy with bergamot (among other essen�al oils) can relieve depression, anxiety and other mood disorders by signalling the brain to release dopamine and serotonin.

With on-going stress related condi�ons on the rise in our industry, bergamot can be a useful tool to help calm relax and alleviate stress and tension. A relaxing massage using a 3% blend bergamot essen�al in a carrier oil would be ideal. Addi�onally, you can also massage the scalp or introduce it for inhala�on during a treatment.

BERGAMOT AND THE SKIN When it comes to the skin bergamot oil has several benefits. For example, several compounds in bergamot oil have an�bacterial and an�-inflammatory proper�es. This makes bergamot oil useful for acne prone condi�ons that are not sensi�ve. The bacterium tested were: •

Staphylococcus aureus

•

Listeria monocytogenes

•

Bacillus cereus

•

E. coli O157

•

Campylobacter jejuni

bergamot may help to reduce overall cholesterol and “bad” LDL cholesterol. It may also help to increase “good” HDL cholesterol and has the poten�al to be an effec�ve supplement to cholesterol drugs.

RISKS TO CONSIDER WHEN USING BERGAMOT OIL Bergamot essen�al oil can be irrita�ng to the skin in some people, especially when it is not diluted with a carrier oil. Essen�al oils, including bergamot oil, can some�mes cause allergic derma��s.

Addi�onally, bergamot is also photo-sensi�sing so it should be avoided when skin is exposed to direct sunlight. Symptoms of an allergic reac�on or sensi�vity to bergamot oil may include: •

redness

•

hives

•

burning sensa�on

•

blisters

•

pain

To ensure safety, it is advisable to conduct a patch test prior to using bergamot essen�al and always use it diluted in a carrier oil.

It is also important to check for bergamot oil’s interac�on with any medica�ons before using. It is therefore advisable to gain medical approval to ensure that any medica�ons your client is taking would not interfere with essen�al oils.

IN CONCLUSION Research points to bergamot essen�al oil’s ability to reduce inflamma�on, lower cholesterol levels, and increase posi�ve mood. Its pleasant and upli�ing aroma can offer numerous benefits for mental and emo�onal support as well as skin health when used with the appropriate precau�onary measures. APJ

Study findings suggested that bergamot essen�al oil may be effec�ve when used against these types of bacteria. Addi�onal studies are also on-going. Another considera�on when it comes to acne, is the analgesic proper�es of bergamot that may also make it effec�ve against painful cysts and pimples.

BERGAMOT OILS FOR HAIR Bergamot oil enthusiasts (and people who love so�, lightly scented hair), swear by this essen�al oil’s ability to so�en and tame curls.

Anecdotal evidence indicates that bergamot oil may also be soothing to an irritated scalp. To use, put a few drops in your usual shampoo. You can also mix one to two drops with a tablespoon of carrier oil and massage it into your scalp as an overnight treatment.

USING BERGAMOT OIL WITH OTHER ESSENTIAL OILS In terms of blending with other oils bergamot is very compa�ble when mixed with: • Lavender oil: Combined with bergamot, lavender oil can create a beau�ful classic fragrance to enhance relaxa�on and lower stress levels.

•

Tea tree oil: Combining bergamot with tea tree oil would be an excellent blend to fight acne and support the skin through the combined an�-bacterial ac�on.

•

Chamomile oil: When combining bergamot and chamomile you can both induce calmness and mood eleva�on – a good one to have handy in the salon or clinic.

LOWER CHOLESTEROL You will also find bergamot available in supplement form, this is because several studies have shown that the flavonoids found in

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STAR PERFORMER

PICOHI 300 PICOSECOND LASER SYSTEM:

An effec�ve solu�on for trea�ng pigmented skin

PICOHI developed by Hironic, safely implements a 300-picosecond pulse dura�on, and has opened a new paradigm in the effec�ve treatment of pigment spots.

THE CONVENTIONAL TREATMENT APPROACH TO PIGMENT DISORDERS was dominated by the Q-switched laser toning. However, the laser toning treatment has some drawbacks: the dark spots do not easily fade away, even a�er more than 10 treatments, and it takes a long �me to achieve no�ceable results. In the aesthe�c laser market, there has been various a�empts to overcome the limita�ons of trea�ng pigment disorders and to improve treatment outcomes. One of the solu�ons was the 'picoseconddomain laser system,' which uses picoseconds to overcome some of these limita�ons.

In this ar�cle Dr. Cha Hyung-Gi explains how Hironic's picosecond laser can be used to effec�vely treat pigmenta�on, scars and other skin abnormali�es.

Picosecond laser systems are based on the unit of picoseconds, which means one trillionth of a second. Picosecond laser systems deliver high dose rate irradia�on to treat pigment spots within a short period of �me by emi�ng laser beams 1000 �mes faster compared to nanosecond laser systems. Therefore, you can see no�ceable results with a small number of treatments and minimiSe the skin �ssue damage around the treatment area or any other side-effects.

This advantage has allowed the picosecond laser systems to have steadily APJ 62

grown as a new laser treatment method with worldwide a�en�on in recent years.

Nevertheless, it is actually difficult to see proper treatment effects with the conven�onal picosecond laser systems because the system stability or durability cannot be guaranteed.

A picosecond laser system with a pulse dura�on closer to 300 ps can deliver a higher, more precise laser irradia�on rate and can obtain be�er treatment outcomes. PICOHI implements 300ps pulse dura�on with stable output and is gaining a�en�on as a suitable laser device for toning treatments.

PICOHI is a combina�on of the Nd:YAG laser system and a pigment laser system, which can be used for two types of treatments. The system is compa�ble with both the MLA (Micro Lens Array) handpiece and DOE (Diffrac�ve Op�cal Element) handpiece. It is composed of various handpieces which include DOE handpiece with two wavelengths of 532nm and 1064 nm, depth adjustable VMLA handpiece, and spot size adjustable ZMLA handpiece.

PICOHI can reduce the treatment period by using the 300 per second pulse dura�on to break pigments into smaller par�cles compared to the conven�onal system. The new system can selec�vely destroy melanin pigments within the treatment area that allows for treatments with a low risk of side-effects, such as hyperpigmenta�on.

NOT JUST FOR PIGMENTATION PICOHI also ac�vates the skin regenera�on and helps the treatment of pores or scars by facilita�ng the crea�on of collagen and elas�n through the Laser Induced Op�cal Breakdown (LIOB) mechanism that uses the MLA technique to form �ny scars. By using the PICOHI, you can reduce complex age spots, freckles, or other blemish spots, as well as treat intractable pigment disorders or remove ta�oos or permanent makeup. Due to the fast treatment effect with a small number of treatments, it can be a perfect treatment method for various pa�ent needs.

There were �mes when dark spots no longer responded to the conven�onal laser toning treatment no ma�er how many �mes it is given. The market was also experiencing treatment limits due to the risk of side-effects that may occur when the irradia�on dose increases. However, PICOHI, which implements a 300ps pulse dura�on, has been launched at the perfect �me. The expecta�on for the new pigment disorders treatment mechanism and the clinical growth that will be brought about by PICOHI is something to look forward to. APJ First published in The Prime (Interna�onal journal of Aesthe�c and An�-Ageing Medicine), Mar/Apr 2020 USA edi�on For more informa�on visit vvww.clinicalpro.com.au

APJ 63

EDUCATION

WHY WE NEED TO RETURN TO OUR TACTILE SERVICES Tina Viney

WITH THE EXTENSIVE ADVANCES IN TECHNOLOGY within our industry, especially lasers and IPLs, we have seen the progressive decline of tac�le services. While those who have studied beauty therapy have been trained in facial manual techniques, others such as cosme�c nurses and even dermal therapists, li�le a�en�on has o�en been given to tac�le techniques as part of standard facial training.

Over the past 12 months, several reliable reports that have surveyed consumer trends, and even through our own industry feedback, have clearly iden�fied the return in demand of tac�le services, such as massage both for face and body.

COVID-19 has promoted the need for social distancing and the need to refrain from touching others. However, one of the primary manifesta�ons of kindness involves human touch. In this ar�cle I will outline why touch is important and how it can help us be�er manage stress hormones, such as our cor�sol levels.

THE BENEFITS OF TOUCH Physical, non-sexual touch is o�en taken for granted. However, it not only helps us feel good, it also plays a cri�cal role in healing.

There are numerous studies that confirm the power of touch in suppor�ng health, wellbeing and even our ability to heal from physical trauma.

Many years ago, I remember reading an ar�cle about babies born during World War II. Scien�sts experimented on a several orphaned babies. During that �me, they observed two sets of infants. One group of babies had all their vital needs met, but in addi�on to their physical needs, they also received the comfort of reassuring words and physical touch. The other set of babies only received care for their daily needs. They did not receive the benefits of kind words or physical touch. Other than having their diapers changed and being given nutri�on, these babies were le� in cribs all day without any form of communica�on. They began to lose weight and became sickly while the babies receiving a�en�ve care, grew and thrived. Doctors noted the importance of physical

APJ 64

touch and observed the role it played in the mental, emo�onal health and development of these children.

When it comes to wound healing there have been many studies that have provided evidence of the healing power of touch. Those in the medical field are finding healthful benefits for pa�ents in the form of nonverbal communica�on such as a pat on the hand, a gentle hug, or some form of skin-to-skin contact. In fact, the healing power of physical touch can be measured. Doctors have found, through laboratory tests such as MRIs, that there are evident changes in the pa�erns of brain ac�vity during touch.

Certain types of endorphins are released, these endorphins combat stress hormones resul�ng in a sense of relaxa�on and peace.

Another study involved two dogs - each had incurred a wound.

They were both fed well, and their wounds treated. However, one dog was regularly pa�ed and hugged, while the other was not subjected to any physical touch. A�er several weeks, the wound on the dog that received physical touch had totally healed, while the other dog’s wound was almost unchanged.

CORTISOL LEVELS AND STRESS MANAGEMENT To help us be�er understand stress management it is helpful to review the role of cor�sol. As we know, cor�sol is a hormone that helps manage some basic bodily func�ons. It's an important chemical that manages blood sugar (glucose), reduces inflamma�on, and controls blood pressure, among other op�ons.

Cor�sol is o�en referred to as the “stress hormone,” because it becomes more abundant when we are faced with a stressful situa�on. It affects the heart rate, breathing pa�erns, and other aspects of the body’s “fight or flight” response. However, cor�sol does more than we probably realise.

WHAT IS CORTISOL AND ITS PURPOSE? Right above each kidney is a small but important gland known as an adrenal gland. The adrenal glands produce some important

hormones, including adrenaline and cor�sol. Most cells in your body have cor�sol receptors, meaning the cells absorb and use cor�sol. But cor�sol is used differently in different parts of the body.

CORTISOL AND OUR FIGHT OR FLIGHT RESPONSE In addi�on to helping manage some of your body’s basic func�ons, cor�sol is linked to your stress response as well. So, what is cor�sol doing when you encounter a stressful situa�on?

The short list of cor�sol’s jobs in the body include: •

Manage blood sugar (glucose) levels

•

Reduce inflamma�on

•

Manage blood pressure

•

Control metabolism

•

Assist with memory forma�on

CORTISOL AND SLEEP The rhythm of cor�sol produc�on by the adrenal glands is also a factor in your sleep rou�ne. Too much cor�sol in the bloodstream at night makes it harder to fall asleep. Low levels of the hormone in the morning can make it tough to get out of bed. In fact, having a healthy varia�on of cor�sol levels throughout the day is associated with be�er health.

Cor�sol is naturally high in the morning to help perk you up, and it decreases into the evening. The loss of this cycle, or the lack of varia�on of cor�sol, is what is associated with nega�ve health outcomes, and this has been confirmed in many studies.

A recent study found higher risks of inflamma�on and immune system problems in people who had li�le varia�on throughout the day in their cor�sol levels. Condi�ons such as fa�gue, depression, and even cancer were more likely among people whose cor�sol cycles were abnormal, as well as a higher suscep�bility to viruses and infec�ons.

Ge�ng a massage, a li�le regular exercise each day and establishing a consistent bed�me and wake-up �me are some easy ways you can start to establish healthy cor�sol produc�on.

One of the chief func�ons of cor�sol is to prepare the body during stressful situa�ons—a “fight or flight” moment. When you feel threatened, the adrenal glands start pumping out cor�sol, causing your muscles to tense and your breathing and heart rates to increase. All of this happens faster than your brain can fully comprehend a situa�on, allowing you to, for example, jump out of the way of an oncoming car.

If you need to flee a life-threatening situa�on, rising levels of cor�sol (and other hormones, such as epinephrine, also known as adrenaline) in your bloodstream will help you escape. If you need to stay and fight off a threat, your body’s response to the flood of hormones will help give you strength and energy for the conflict.

Unfortunately, living in a constant state of stress and anxiety perpetuated by uncertain �mes, such as the ones that we are currently living in, can boost cor�sol levels where they remain constantly locked into overdrive. This can lead to a high risk of chronic health condi�ons Studies confirm that when cor�sol levels remain elevated, as is the case with so many people who are under constant stress, the ability to reproduce can suffer greatly, making it more difficult to conceive. However, these effects of cor�sol in both men and women are reversed when stress levels go down.

It’s also possible to have too li�le cor�sol. Each condi�on can be problema�c. A condi�on such as Addison’s disease causes a shortage of circula�ng cor�sol. Too li�le cor�sol can lead to muscle weakness, fa�gue, nausea, and pain in the abdomen.

Low cor�sol levels are also associated with behaviour issues. A

APJ 65

University of Chicago study of pre-adolescent boys found that low levels of cor�sol in saliva may affect how they respond to stressful situa�ons and even how they perceive the consequences of ac�ng out as a response to stress.

medica�on to your clients, you can introduce them to a relaxa�on massage that can further support the body when combined with the use of a few proven essen�al oils. Here are nine of the most researched essen�al oils for lowering cor�sol levels:

“Boys with consistently lower cor�sol levels may not be as afraid of retribu�on,” says Keith Burne�, PhD, a psychology professor with the University of Chicago and author of the study. “In many aggressive children, the system that responds to the threat of punishment does not react normally. They may not feel stress in the same way and so they don’t avoid stressful situa�ons.”

1.

COPING WITH CORTISOL ISSUES You can be prescribed cor�costeroids if you have low cor�sol levels. And if you are chronically stressed, therapy and relaxa�on training, medita�on and massage may help bring down cor�sol levels in your blood.

Lavender: When you consider the true picture of relaxa�on, the light floral aroma of lavender o�en comes to mind.

Lavender not only helps to induce relaxa�on it is also proven excellent in helping to lower cor�sol levels. One study measuring the elevated anxiety and cor�sol levels of pa�ents having open-heart surgery iden�fied a 69% reduc�on in blood cor�sol levels when they received an aromatherapy treatment using lavender oil.

2. Bergamot: The bright and clean scent of bergamot essen�al oil makes it a popular op�on for relaxa�on. A handful of studies

Poorly controlled cor�sol levels are associated with mental health disorders, including anxiety and depression, though the significance of this rela�onship is s�ll not clearly understood.

If you have ques�ons or concerns about cor�sol levels, or an inability to cope with stress, it is also advisable to talk with your doctor. Cor�sol can be screened with a blood test and a saliva test. There are even patches with sensors that can measure the cor�sol in perspera�on. Cor�sol is a helpful hormone for a lot of reasons but making sure you’re producing the right levels at the right �mes is important for your physical and mental health.

MASSAGE AND CORTISOL LEVELS If you do not offer massage, either incorporated in your facial treatments, or you do not offer body massage, you may wish to rethink your treatment menu. Many research projects conducted by the Touch Research Ins�tute in Miami show that not only do people feel be�er a�er receiving massage but when their levels of cor�sol are tested, they are significantly lower in those who have received a massage!

Personally, I have found that a gentle, nurturing massage rather than a remedial deep �ssue massage has been able to not only lower my cor�sol levels, but also raise my haemoglobin levels in my red blood cells, which is a blessing for me, as I have hereditary anaemia.

have been conducted to examine the poten�al bergamot oil benefits. For those who want to learn how to lower your cor�sol levels naturally, bergamot is an excellent place to begin (please also check further informa�on on bergamot on pages 60-61. A 2015 study looked at three dis�nct groups of individuals. One group received rest, the next group received rest and water vapour, and the final group received rest, water vapour, and bergamot essen�al oil. A�er fi�een minutes of exposure to their assigned treatment, researchers took saliva samples to measure cor�sol levels. They determined that par�cipants who received rest, water vapour, and bergamot essen�al oil for a short period of �me had the most significant decrease in their salivary cor�sol levels.

Massage can play a huge role in helping your body find that state of non-stress. This is the place where you can get the rest you need to build your immune system, re-build cells and where your diges�ve system can focus on what it needs to do.

SIMPLE STRATEGIES FOR LOWERING CORTISOL LEVELS THE NATURAL WAY If you wish to iden�fy symptoms of high levels of cor�sol look for the following symptoms: •

High blood pressure

•

Flushed face

•

Muscle weakness

•

Increased thirst and urina�on

•

Changes in mood

•

Rapid weight gain

•

Bruises

•

Decreased sex drive

3.

Neroli: Neroli, sourced from the blossoms of the bi�er orange tree, is another common floral scent that is considered to reduce stress. The research regarding how neroli essen�al oil works within the body is s�ll growing, but there are a number of studies that already demonstrate its efficacy. One study looked at the stress levels of postmenopausal women who inhaled neroli oil for five minutes twice daily and those who inhaled almond oil. At the conclusion of the study, the women who received the neroli essen�al oil had lower blood pressure, improved pulse rates, lower cor�sol serum and improved oestrogen concentra�ons.

4.

Orange: Using the sweet aroma of this orange citrus fruit can

All the above symptoms can occur when your body is producing too much cor�sol. While you may not be able to prescribe

APJ 66

be a very relaxing way to lower your cor�sol levels. A 2012 study compared orange essen�al oil to other substances including water and tea tree essen�al oil. Par�cipants were assigned to groups who inhaled one of these three substances and then given an anxiety-producing exam. Those who received the orange essen�al oil had less subjec�ve tension and greater calm through the exam. Just a few drops are enough to see the tremendous benefits of using sweet orange essen�al oils for lowing cor�sol levels.

5. Cedarwood: Those who are searching for a classic essen�al oil that can help them feel grounded and calm may want to reach for a bo�le of cedarwood. This balmy scent brings you straight back to nature and can help to soothe anxious nerves. In fact, there is even research to prove that cedarwood essen�al oil truly does calm down the body – this is one of my favourites!

Test subjects were given cedarwood essen�al oil to inhale via a face mask while researchers measured their heart rate and blood pressure. It significantly decreased the heart rate, systolic blood pressure and diastolic blood pressure of par�cipants in this group.

6. Ylang Ylang: Dri� off into sweet slumber or unwind in the bathtub with a few drops of this relaxing essen�al oil. Ylang ylang essen�al oil has a calming effect that can easily spread throughout your en�re body. Researchers took a look at what happens to pa�ents who are considered to be prehypertensive and hypertensive when exposed to an aromatherapy treatment. Par�cipants inhaled lavender, ylang-ylang, neroli, and marjoram for 24 hours. At the end of the treatment, this group had lower systolic blood pressure, day�me blood pressure, and less stress.

7. Marjoram: This one is another favourite of mine. Marjoram oil is a li�le different than many of the other essen�al oils on our ranking. Most people can iden�fy this oil for its herbaceous scent instead of the heady floral aromas that signify many of the more popular relaxing oils. Despite this major difference, marjoram is s�ll a major player when it comes to reducing cor�sol levels.

8. Rosemary: Rosemary is similar to marjoram in its scent profile and is also considered to be a powerful ally for lowering cor�sol. It lowers free radical damage and helps the body gain equilibrium. While helping to lower cor�sol rosemary is also known as one of the best oils to assist concentra�on and memory.

9. Clary Sage: Clary sage essen�al oil is another important tool that you can use to reduce cor�sol naturally. Much like many of the other oils men�oned here, inhala�on of the clary sage oil is really all it takes to begin reaping the benefits. When you feel like you are ready to unwind for the day, place a few drops in your diffuser and enjoy. In a 2014 study, menopausal women who were considered to be either normal, or to have a depression tendency were exposed to a clary sage aromatherapy treatment. Cor�sol levels decreased significantly a�er this exposure, and it was found to have an an�depressant-like effect on the women in the study.

IN CONCLUSION I am sure you would agree with me that high stress and cor�sol levels will remain prevalent in the months, and the years to come.

In reviewing your treatment menu, though�ully consider introducing stress reduc�on strategies in your treatment op�ons.

They will most definitely be welcomed by your clients, and allow you to add an extra layer of support to their wellbeing and your overall skin treatment outcomes. APJ

APJ 67

AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN

APAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE VIDEOS

contact us on 07 5593 0360 or email: info@apanetwork.com to discuss.

THE APAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE had some amazing content with robust educa�on. These sessions are now also available for purchase as individual videos or as packages.

Alterna�vely, you can complete an order form and pay directly from the conference website: www.apanconf.com.

Just �ck the ones you wish to purchase and finalise your payment. These are great value for staff training or for your reference library.

Each video runs for 30 minutes to 40 minutes with Professor Laurence Walsh’s session running for one hour.

We have had requests from business owners who are keen to purchase some of the conference videos to include as part of their training library resources.

If you wish to purchase any of the videos, please visit the website www.apanconf.com. You will iden�fy the booking form with the various sessions outlined. If you wish to gain further informa�on on the learning objec�ves of each lecture, please go to the PROGRAM field at the top of the page and view all the segment topics. Select the ones you wish to purchase. If you wish to see the speakers first, you can also check these out.

You can purchase one video, or several.

We have put together some packages, however, if you require more, please

APJ 68

1. Purchase an individual video of your choice: Cost: $29.99 2. Purchase five videos of your choice Cost: $24.99 each 3. Purchase a set of 10 videos of your choice Cost: 19.99 each APAN con�nues to provide you with addi�onal support and value. APJ

PERMANENT COSMETIC CULTURE CHANGES LOCATION SUNDAY 17th & MONDAY 18th OCTOBER 2021 Due to COVID-19 restric�on in Sydney the PCC two-day educa�onal event has changed its loca�on from Sydney to

Brisbane. The event will showcase PMU, Beauty and Business demos from leaders in the industry. Set in two rooms, ar�sts will ta�oo live on stage for at least one hour or show a video presenta�on of their work. PCC is a collec�on for up to 20 mini master-classes, covering topics that our industry needs. Ar�sts will share their secrets at this event so you can improve your skills. You can get up close, record and even bring your own machine to ta�oo along with the speaker. The event will also include networking

This sec�on presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthe�c Industry informa�on

health had go�en worse during the pandemic.

opportuni�es and the chance to make friends within the industry. APJ www.permanentcosme�cculture.com

•

Social media has become one of the

PANDEMIC AND SKINCARE: THE MOST POPULAR COSMETIC INGREDIENTS main sources for skincare advice as 44% of respondents went online for skincare advice more o�en in the past year (including women 55% and men 40%).

NEW CONSUMER FOCUS ON SKIN-CLEANSING SURVEY REVEALS IT WOULD APPEAR that COVID-19 has changed consumer habits with an increasing interest in cleansing their skin.

A global survey conducted by skincare brand CeraVe revealed that 64% of individuals who par�cipated in the survey revealed that skin cleansing has become very important, and they have upgraded their rou�ne. The survey was conducted online across 23 countries and achieved over 10,100 respondents. 64% of the people globally stated that their cleansing rou�ne has changed during the past 12 months. Here are some of the findings of this survey:

•

48% of respondents said that they turned to press and online sources for facial cleansing advice, making it the first source of informa�on, followed by word-of-mouth.

•

Significantly, 79% agreed that you can end up damaging your skin if you follow the wrong type of advice, with 67% agreeing that skincare advice you find online is not always accurate.

•

Inaccurate advice o�en leads to cleansing misconcep�ons which can damage the skin barrier. Supported by the following sta�s�cs:

•

Overwhelmingly, 90% of respondents reported that their daily life had been impacted by changes that affected their skin health both in posi�ve and nega�ve ways.

- 42% of respondents only use water to cleanse their faces.

•

Two-thirds (64%) of respondents repor�ng that their cleansing rou�nes had significantly changed compared to their pre-pandemic habits. They stated that they now cleanse with more care and more regularly.

- 30% of respondents think that cleansing cannot help in maintaining their skin barrier func�on. APJ

•

19% of women said that their skin

OUR GENERAL SKINCARE NEEDS have changed with the COVID-19 pandemic.

Due to social isola�on, we use makeup less o�en. We pay more a�en�on to skin health, and look for ways to eliminate discolora�on, moisturise it and assure its healthy glow. So, which skin care ingredients were most popular in 2020 according to Google searches?

The Bri�sh website cultbeauty.co.uk has compiled a list of the 20 most popular skin care ingredients of 2020 by the largest number of Google searches – where the first three on the list got over 500,000 each. Natural ingredients are all the rage in 2020 and beyond: •

In the first place is vitamin C, which turned out to be an absolute hit. Skin care products containing vitamin C help fight skin discolora�on, ensure its firmness and natural glow and inhibit ageing were the most researched and accessed.

•

The second place was taken by re�nol, currently the most effec�ve an�-wrinkle substance. Its posi�on in 2021 is threatened by bakuchiol – the natural alterna�ve to re�nol, which was considered the more organic counterpart, useful to help acne management, pigmenta�on and

- 69% of respondents use a mix of hot and warm water to cleanse their faces.

APJ 69

AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN signs of ageing as well as for excessive sebum secre�on.

•

current (no-makeup) makeup trend – Glam with a more natural twist. APJ

Castor oil is ranked third. This natural ingredient has been known for a long �me, and the interest in organic products that boost regenera�on has only increased during the pandemic.

Castor oil is used in home treatments in order to promote eyebrow and eyelash growth and restore nail cu�cles. The remaining places in the top 10 include: hyaluronic acid, squalane, salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, witch hazel, niacinamide and ceramides. APJ

AUSTRALIAN TOP COSMETIC PROCEDURES

BY GROWTH RATE JUST IN CASE YOU THOUGHT that COVID-19 has dampened consumer interest in cosme�c and plas�c surgery procedures in Australia, take a look at the stats below. The data was analysed over a two year period 2019-2021.

THE ’90S GLAMOUR IS BACK! AND JUST FOR A BIT OF CHEER when it comes to makeup for this winter the lost magic of the '90s supermodel has been revived!

The makeup trend-se�ers have taken beauty looks worn by Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, and Naomi Campbell and are bringing them to 2021 trends.

Here is how to achieve the look:

•

•

UMBILICOPLASTY: (+250.0%): changes the appearance or shape of the belly bu�on.

•

RIB REMOVAL: (+182.4%): commonly performed on people who want to achieve an hourglass look.

•

GYNAECOMASTIA: (+174.1%): the removal of male breast �ssues or ‘man boobs’.

•

POKERTOX: (+133.3%): a combina�on of botulinum and facial fillers specifically designed to enhance a gambling player’s ‘poker face’.

•

COOLSCULPTING: (+125.0%): a nonsurgical method of destroying adipose �ssue aka fat freezing.

•

DIMPLEPLASTRY: (+120.0%): creates dimples on the cheeks or chin.

•

TONGUE SPLITTING: (+90.0%): a type of oral body modifica�on that involves spli�ng the tongue in half to create a ‘forked tongue’ look.

•

EAR PINNING: (+84.6%): also called otoplasty, this is performed to pin back, or reduce the size.

•

FAT GRAFTING: (+84.6%): moving a person’s own fat cells from one part of the body to another area. Fat gra�ing restores youthful contours, making the area fuller and more li�ed. APJ

BUCCAL FAT REMOVAL: (+309.1%): the removal of cheek fat to give the appearance of a thinner, more contoured face

Top Cosme�c Procedures by Search Volume VOLUME 019-2020

VOLUME 2020-2021

2-YEAR GROWTH

1-YEAR GROWTH

TOTAL

861,850

1,103,100

58.9%

27.99%

lip filler

117,800

158,200

49.4%

34.30%

gynecomas�a

95,400

142,900

174.1%

49.79%

botulinum toxin

127,600

138,600

22.2%

8.62%

KEYWORD

•

EYES: Ma�e brown shadows and full volume mascara.

eyebrow ta�oo

96,600

127,500

50.0%

31.99%

•

BROWS: Slightly arched with some natural strays.

coolsculp�ng

85,700

106,100

125.0%

23.80%

tummy tuck

68,000

87,300

50.0%

28.38%

LIPS: Deeper nudes with a slight gloss, or a translucent red.

abiaplasty

58,800

68,100

83.3%

15.82%

breast implants

55,900

55,900

22.2%

0.00%

SKIN: Not too ma�e and not too glowy, just a nice sa�n finish.

The new look falls right in line with the

cheek filler

43,300

50,200

50.0%

15.94%

buccal fat removal

16,160

42,300

309.1%

161.76%

• •

APJ 70

This sec�on presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthe�c Industry informa�on

“If you can’t explain it simply, you don’t understand it well enough” Albert Einstein

INTRODUCING TWO NEW PROGRAMS Online Study Units Upskill your knowledge, grow your confidence, enhance your results.

Mentoring Program: Shadowing Gay An exci�ng one-on-one mentoring program. Learn the winning protocols to grow your reputa�on and your business.

If you are a Nurse, Dermal Therapist or a Beauty Therapist wan�ng to expand your knowledge or returning to the industry, these training programs are for you!

QUEENSLAND LASER LICENCE If you require to complete your supervised hours, or your laser licence, this training is now available.

+61 418 708 455 educa�on@gaywardle.com www.gaywardle.com

MENTORING PROGRAM SCHEDULE DAY 1 Review ques�ons completed by the work shadow.

Lunch provided

Discuss 7 Habits of Highly Successful Salon Owners

Work Shadow Gay while she performs treatments on clients

Gay’s Signature Skin Analysis – the secret weapon

Reflec�ons and check-out

Learn how this vital step can set you and your client up for successful treatment outcomes

Ques�on and answer �me.

Skin treatment program

Personal development

Wri�en assignment

Prescrip�on of skin products Star�ng point and protocols for tracking progress.

Work Shadow Gay while she performs treatments on clients DAY 2 Review learning from the previous day.

Work Shadow Gay while she performs treatments on clients

Discuss 7 Habits of Highly Successful Salon Owners – what did you see yesterday?

Reflec�ons and check-out Reflec�on wri�ng and learning objec�ves.

Work Shadow Gay while she performs treatments on clients Lunch Provided

APJ 71

REGULATIONS

ARE YOU GUILTY OF MISLEADING ‘BEFORE AND AFTER’ PHOTOS? Tina Viney

AS WE VENTURE FURTHER INTO BEAUTIFYING SERVICES that can literally transform someone’s appearance the appeal to promote and adver�se what our services can deliver becomes very temp�ng. However, there are rules and regulatory guidelines about how you go about doing this and they all have to do with the issue of “misleading” the public as to what is possible through the services you provide.

On the 4th May the Australian Health Prac��oners Regula�on Agency (AHPRA) updated its adver�sing guidelines for 2021. All medical and cosme�c medical procedures are governed by these guidelines and non-compliance can result in fines.

If you are working collabora�vely with a cosme�c doctor or nurse who are providing cosme�c injectable services in your premises you have-a-duty-of-care to your clients to familiarise yourself with these rules and ensure that any services delivered under your roof are conduc�on in compliance with ALL, the regulatory requirements - that also includes the way that these services are adver�sed and promoted to your clients. Please note that under vicarious liability a client can also sue you if something goes wrong and does not meet with their expecta�ons.

To protect you in this regard APAN has a special Compliance Kit for Cosme�c Injectables that outlines everything you need to know about your obliga�ons and how to screen anyone who will be providing these services in your premises. However, in this ar�cle I will highlight some of the changes and requirements.

NEW GUIDELINES FOR NON-MEDICAL PRACTITIONERS If you are a non-medical prac��oner APAN has developed in July 2021 new industry best prac�ce guidelines for adver�sing and ‘before and a�er’ photos. These guidelines support ar�cle 25 of the APAN Code of Ethics - “ensure that your adver�sing is truthful, honest and meets with the ethical and regulatory guidelines or permi�ed claims. Avoid any exaggerated claims. Your adver�sing should not bring your profession into disrepute.” To this ar�cle we have now added “ensure you are familiar and abide by the APAN Adver�sing and Promo�onal Guidelines”.

While injec�ng may be outside your scope of prac�ce, your services and prac�ces must be aligned with the standards required by cosme�c medical prac��oners when promo�ng treatment expecta�ons and outcomes.

In brief, let us look at some of the AHPRA guidelines: ADVERTISING, REVIEWS, AND TESTIMONIALS First, what is ‘adver�sing’? AHPRA states that their defini�on of adver�sing includes but is not limited to all forms of verbal, printed or electronic public communica�on that promotes a regulated health service provider to a�ract a person to the provider (prac��oner or business). These includes pla�orms such as: •

Facebook and social pla�orms

•

Google My Business

WHY DO I NEED TO COMPLY? At this point you might be thinking, “I don’t work with a nurse or doctor, so why do I need to consider the AHPRA guidelines, as I am not a medical prac��oner?”

•

Forums

•

Your business website

•

Specialist registra�ons

The answer to that is quite simply, that if you are providing any services that improve someone’s appearance and presen�ng before and a�er photos of the treatment outcomes you deliver, you will be compe�ng to some extent with the services delivered within cosme�c medicine clinics. Therefore, your clients will need to be assured that the results you can achieve are presented truthfully and that any before and a�er photos have met with the strictest ethical and regulatory guidelines for authen�city and accuracy.

•

Before and a�er images

•

Gi�s and Incen�ves

APJ 72

These may also include: • Television or cinema, radio •

Newspapers, flyers

• Billboards • Books (if the book is promo�ng a par�cular regulated health service) • Pictorial representa�on • Designs • Office signs As a rule, AHPRA does not approve the use of tes�monials in your adver�sing. What that means is that if you are promo�ng a par�cular service, including a tes�monial next to it, is not permi�ed regardless of the pla�orm you are using, including social media. What is permi�ed is for a tes�mony on the professionalism of the prac��oner, the level of excellence of the services provided and how friendly and helpful the staff are – such statements are permi�ed, but statements that say, “my results with my laser treatment were phenomenal, improved my pigmenta�on,” etc, especially if you are promo�ng that treatment in your adver�sing.

However, on social media if a client goes into a chat group and shares with others about their wonderful experience and results independent of any of your adver�sing, that is permi�ed.

“Adver�sers are not responsible for removing (or trying to have removed) tes�monials published on pla�orms that do not control or on sites that are not adver�sing a regulated health service.” AHPRA BEFORE AND AFTER PHOTOS There is no-doubt that before and a�er photos are viewed regularly by consumers and industry professionals alike who are seeking to determine the poten�al benefit of a par�cular procedure. For example, if you do a Google search for “Dermal Fillers before and a�er” 16,000,000 results come up. If you search for Before and A�ers for wrinkle injec�ons 45,000,000 results will appear.

As they say, “a picture is worth a thousand words”. However, photography of ‘before and a�er’ shots can also be manipulated either inten�onally (via photoshop) or accidentally, through a different posi�on or a stronger light during the “a�er shot”. This would be considered misleading.

In Victoria, the Health Records Act (2001) is the most relevant legisla�on related to treatment records including ‘before and a�er’ photos. This Act protects your health informa�on when it is handled by public and private sector organisa�ons in Victoria and is administered by the Health Complaints Commissioner (HCC).

People need to appreciate that any personal informa�on, including photos, taken in a non-medical se�ng such as a non-medical salon are also required to adhere to these high standards.

Here are some guidelines when taking photos: AHPRA has for some �me had concerns over the appropriate use of ‘before and a�er’ photos and the poten�al of these photos to mislead or even deceive consumers, and this is unethical, whether it is a medical or simple a cosme�c procedure that someone may be inves�ng hundreds, or even thousands of dollars to gain the perceived results.

The problem with photography is two-fold: 1. If the images are retouched or taking with a different ligh�ng the “a�er” may be unrealis�cally enhance.

2. The second concern is that there are several other variables that determine the success of the end result of the procedures e.g. age, diet, lifestyle, gene�cs, previous and accompanied procedures that may have op�mised the skin’s ability to respond to the treatment.

However, within our industry ‘before and a�er’ photos are permi�ed, however they need to be as authen�c as possible.

Here are some guidelines: • The images should be as similar as possible in content.

•

The camera angle must be as similar as possible.

•

The ligh�ng must be the same, not brighter in the ‘a�er shot’ blowing out lines and wrinkles.

•

The posture must be iden�cal.

•

Facial expression must be exactly the same – no smiles in the ‘before’ close up shot of the eyes showing wrinkles, while the ‘a�er’ shot the face shows no creases as the subject is not smiling.

•

The same background colour.

•

Before and a�er photos should not be accompanied with any review by a pa�ent about the treatment they have received, as this is then regarded as a tes�monial, and the use of tes�monials contravenes the Na�onal Adver�sing regula�ons.

OTHER ETHICAL CONSIDERATIONS It is also important to note that if you plan to use the face of a client for promo�onal or adver�sing purposes you should gain approval first. APAN has legally wri�en ‘Photography Consent’ forms that you can access from us.

The other issue is “Privacy and Confiden�ality”. Our PRIVACY POLICY has been wri�en specifically for our industry and includes a cer�ficate for display. This document is a legally-wri�en in line with the Privacy Act outlining how your client’s personal informa�on will be collected and stored. All our resource documents comply with legal and regulatory requirements and many of them have been wri�en by our lawyers.

CONSIDERATIONS SPECIFICALLY FOR COSMETIC TATTOOIST The use of someone else’s before and a�er photos passing them as your work is a very common prac�ce amongst cosme�c ta�ooists who are void of any ethical considera�on on how they promote themselves. This prac�ce is not just a copyright infringement, it is also unethical and misleading. If this is somebody else’s work, this would also be considered as plagiarism - the prac�ce of taking someone else's work or ideas and passing them off as one's own.

As professionals, we need to uphold industry-defined and regulated ethical standards. There is no excuse for ignorance.

Organisa�ons such as APAN have been set up to ensure you are well-informed and protected. Your membership will allow you to gain immediate access to your essen�al requirements and keep you updated with on-going industry and regulatory changes.

Please remember that our behaviour affects not just our personal reputa�on, it also strengthens or discredits the reputa�on of the profession as a whole. It pays to be compliant. APJ If you need further informa�on or support, please feel free to contact APAN info@apanetwork.com 07 5593 0360 or visit www.apanetwork.com

APJ 73

PRODUCT INNOVATIONS

DERMATONICS CLEARSKIN® Our revolu�onary natural breakout preventer is developed using our in-house Nutridermaceu�cal ® Technology to deliver ultra-pure highly ac�ve ingredients that help clear and prevent skin breakouts. Dermatonics Clearskin® is formulated based on scien�fic and biomedical evidence and patent-protected to help support visible, clear and healthy skin. Contact Dermatonics 0430 582 508 donna@sentryca.com.au

AGE-DEFYING SERUM Phyt's ANTI-WRINKLE SERUM has been the holy grail since 1980 when it was first introduced to salons and spas in single-dose ampoules and capsules as serum ARH23.

This highly nutri�ous phyto-complex is 100% natural and cer�fied organic and is dedicated to mature skin over 40, lacking in tone. The serum drama�cally reduces length as well as depth of wrinkles for a smoother and visibly younger-looking skin. The an�-wrinkle efficacy of this serum lies in the synergy of essen�al oils and plant extracts combined in a potent and ac�ve complex. The serum combines the extraordinary power of pressed seeds such as wheat germ, castor, hazelnut and sunflower oils and the proper�es of aroma�c plant essences such as essen�al oils of cypress, rosemary, thyme and lavender. Age-Defying Syrum delivers amazing results to mature skin, enhancing a more youthful appearance, while being friendly to our environment. orders@phyts.com.au call 0416 143 537, 1300 656 627, www.phyts.com.au

NEW LED TECHNOLOGY FLEXLUX Introducing FlexLux, the newest LED light therapy device with an innova�ve design to ensure efficient and effec�ve treatments. Flexible panels allow them to be freely adjusted to op�mise the distance between the panel and treatment area. With its ergonomic design and user-friendly opera�ng system makes the FlexLux the ul�mate LED treatment device for operator comfort and maximum treatment results. Contact ClinicalPro 1800 628 999, wwww.clinicalpro.com.au

VENUS HEAL – FOR SOFT TISSUE HEALING Venus Concept Australia is excited to announce the launch of our latest medical device VENUS HEAL – powered by innova�ve RP3 Technology, which synergis�cally combines the benefits of Mul�-Polar Radio Frequency (RF). Pulsed Electro-magne�c fields (PEMF), and massage. In addi�on to its compact and portable design that allows for prac��oner adapta�on for in-clinic use or on-site func�onality, Venus Heal also includes advanced technological features for superior pa�ent comfort and consistent treatment efficacy. Contact Venus Concept 0416 022 096, info.au@venusconcept.com, www.venusconcept.com

APJ 74

SKEYNDOR LAUNCHES NEW CORRECTIVE FORMULATION The new Correc�ve skincare line has been reformulated with triple-ac�on stepping up results to a new level. Skeyndor boasts that it will make you look five years younger! Correc�ve has been designed to combat wrinkles and skin sagging. It will smooth and remove face and eye wrinkles as well as improve lip contours in a more ac�ve manner. The new cosme�c treatment combines a tripple-ac�on mechanism that fill the skin and rejuvenate it. The biological peel accelerates cell renewal and smooths the skin. The filler combines three natural lipo-filling substances to complete the re-densifying effect and fill grooves and deep wrinkles, especially ver�cal lines. The decontractor uses dermo-li�ing pep�des to repair damaged skin, reduces wrinkles, leaving the skin more li�ed and refined. Contact Vogue Image Group 03 9821 0033 www.skeyndorpro.com.au

CCB CREAM Mineral makeup has never been more innova�ve, with pure formula�ons that are not only noncomedogenic, but also offer proven skin-boos�ng benefits through the added ac�ve ingredients.

Issada’s CCB Cream is a mutli-tasking mineral founda�on formula offering the benefits of a �nted moisturiser, colour-corrector and skincare serum all in one. CCB glides on effortlessly providing sheer coverage with skin-nourishing and an�-ageing ingredients to minimise the appearance of pores, pigmenta�on, blemishes, boost radiance, soothe and protect the skin. The natural, lightweight formula contains a nourishing blend of pure minerals, an�-ageing vitamin A, an�oxidant vitamin C, Licorice Rood Extract (to even skin tone), Hyaluronic Acid (to plump and hydrate) and barrier repairing Ceramide 3, vitamin E and Olive Glycerides. CCB Cream can be applied post-treatment, worn alone as a light to medium coverage founda�on, or under powder founda�on for fuller coverage. It is one of the hero cosme�c products from Issada Mineral Makeup range which includes founda�ons, lip, cheek, and eye formulas, plus a full cosmeceu�cal skincare range. For enquiries contact 07 3904 2288 or visit www.issada.com

RB NATURAL LASHES Long, luscious lashes can be yours with Roccoco's revolu�onary prebio�c Lash Serum.

Containing 16 ac�ve ingredients, three prebio�cs and a potent blend of botanicals and pep�des, this serum s�mulates the growth and density of both the eyelashes and brows. Suitable for all skin types and safe for use with lash extensions. Contact Roccoco Botanicals sales@roccoco.com 07 3807 1429, au.roccoco.com socials: @roccocobotanicals.

MEDER ARMA-BUST CREAM Women treasure MEDER Arma-Bust Cream for the bust and décolleté area and its instant firming and luxurious silky texture. Arma-Bust Creams key ingredient consists of Africana Kigelia fruit, which supports the synthesis of collagen and protects the skin from UV damage by increasing firmness. Vitamin B5 is added for its an�-inflammatory and an�oxidant benefits, brightening the skin, preven�ng pigmenta�on spots and improving microcircula�on. Natural soy pep�des help restore circadian regula�on in the skin and support collagen produc�on to prevent wrinkles and creases in the décolleté area during sleep. For further informa�on, contact Meder Beauty Science on 0466 338 844 admin@mederbeautyscience.com.au

APJ 75

PRODUCT INNOVATIONS

SKIN SERENITY, OVERNIGHT SCIENCE Introducing ENVIRON’s new FOCUS CARE YOUTH +® SERIENCE NIGHT SERUM, the first of its kind advanced overnight booster developed to target the nega�ve long-term effects of stress to reveal serene, luminous, and youthfullooking skin. Formulated with an intelligent Malechite-Neuropep�de Complex scien�fically proven to protect, reset, relax and reconnect the skin from within, cell-by-cell, night a�er night. For further informa�on contact 1300 888 708 visit www.environskincare.com.au

DR. ANNE-MARIE’S DERMAL CARE Dr Anne-Marie’s Dermal Care is a complete skincare range formulated in Australian with special emphasis on purity and efficacy.

It consists of all-natural ac�ve ingredients sourced in Australia. Dr Anne-Marie’s Dermal Care is 100% Vegan and is phthalate, sulphate, paraben and cruelty free. All products are carefully formulated with Australian na�ve plants and herbs to rebalance the skin and restore it to a healthy state and support its natural beauty. To learn more about this organic skincare visit www.dramdermalcare.com.au or phone 0403 846 622.

NEOGENESIS RECOVER SERUM NeoGenensis Recover is our hero product. It is a breakthrough serum that improves an�-ageing results, speeds the healing process, and reduces the appearance of inflamma�on. Abundant in our patented S²RM® technology, Recovery contains mul�ple adult stem cell released molecules, including potent an�oxidants, pep�des, and much more. NeoGenesis Recovery acts as a power booster to naturally return the skin to a healthy and radiant state. It is safe for daily use and corrects even the most damaged skin. Excellent for rosacea and acne, it enhances scarless healing, collagen produc�on and reduces the appearance of all signs of ageing. For further informa�on contact NeoGenesis Karen Playel 0452 449 045 info@neogenesis.com www.neogenesis.com All NeoGenesis products are oncology approved.

APJ 76

THE PERFECT EYE SERUM NeoGenesis Eye Serum is a clear, super hydra�ng gel design to restore youthfulness to the skin around the eyes. For�fied with patented S²RM® technology, it quickly absorbs into the skin to diminish the appearance of fine line and wrinkles, improve the look of dark circles and puffiness and improve overall skin texture and appearance.

NeoGenesis Eye Serum contains mul�ple an�oxidants to fight free radical damage and enhance the skin’s hydra�on and tone. For further informa�on contact NeoGenesis Karen Playel 0452 449 045 info@neogenesis.com www.neogenesis.com All NeoGenesis products are oncology approved.

BARRIER RENEWAL CREAM NeoGenesis Barrier Renewal Cream is a lightweight, deeply hydra�ng and repairing cream that is good for all skin types, including acneic and barrier impaired skin. It is an unscented and non-greasy formula that contains patented S²RM® technology and may be used on dry, sensi�ve, and irritated skin. It contains lipids, cholesterol, free fa�y acids, and ceramides needed to repair and renew the skin. For further informa�on contact NeoGenesis Karen Playel 0452 449 045 info@neogenesis.com www.neogenesis.com

LIGHT MOISTURISER WITH A DIFFERENCE Designed specifically for normal to oil skin types NeoGenesis Light Moisturiser is excellent for problema�c skin types, or for use during a more humid climate. Contains all the benefits of Intensive Moisturiser including patented S²RM® technology, it will protect the skin from environmental damage, restore tone and texture and reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles. This is a high-performance moisturiser with a light texture. For further informa�on contact NeoGenesis Karen Playel 0452 449 045 info@neogenesis.com www.neogenesis.com All NeoGenesis products are oncology approved.

APJ 77

HOMECARE ADVICE

WHEN LOCKDOWN LOOMS, AT-HOME BEAUTY TAKES OVER Dr Giulia D’Anna

WHETHER WE LIKE IT OR NOT, our clients are always looking for ways to look a�er themselves when we cannot, or not permi�ed.

Lockdowns have been unrelen�ng in some parts of Australia, par�cularly in Victoria and now New South Wales. My clients o�en ask me what they can do to look a�er their skin during these �mes. So instead of bad-mouthing store-purchased devices and products, I try to offer some construc�ve insight and advice to lead my clients in the right direc�on. This works especially well if your clinic offers online support and products. Trust me, my clients do appreciate it and your clients will too. So, here are some common ques�ons I am asked and the advice I offer them. This not only helps them to maintain their skin, it also keeps us communica�ng and connected.

LED MASKS What do you think about at-home LED masks? Is there some benefit to using them at home, even though the wavelengths of the LED are weaker than clinical treatments?

LED face masks for home use will definitely add value to your clients’ skincare regime, and their skin overall. Although not as effec�ve or potent in their ac�on as clinical treatments, clients will no�ce general brightening of the skin and improved ‘glow’.

Basically at-home devices provide a frac�on of the effect you will get in a clinic, but that has benefits too. You can apply most LED masks many �mes a week, or even more than once daily. There is no down-�me and there are virtually no risks either.

What do you see as the main benefits? And what should I look out for when purchasing?

The great thing about LED masks when used at home is that they have a cumula�ve effect. That means each �me they use them,

APJ 78

the skin benefits accumulate. Being less effec�ve than a clinical LED treatment, it takes longer and more sessions to get appreciable result, but results are possible. When looking for masks, there are some basics to consider. The more LEDs the mask contains, the be�er! So, if a mask boasts 50 LEDs, but another boasts 200, go for the one that offers 200! Masks that plug into a power point are more powerful than ba�ery or USB powered varie�es. The colours ma�er too! Red is great for almost any skin and has beau�ful an�-ageing benefits. Whereas those that suffer from acne and breakouts should be looking for blue LED masks. Green is calming, so a perfect match for anyone with Rosacea or redness through the face.

Does cost ma�er?

Some�mes the more you pay, the be�er the LED mask, BUT there are some truly expensive at-home masks that are expensive because they are a coveted brand name. So, paying more does not always equate to great results. I love an LED mask that covers the whole face, so the whole face is being treated. Surrounding the face also means that the mask can be le� on without you needing to put in any extra effort. Another bonus is that the wrap around design allows you to get an ‘even’ satura�on of LED over your face. Hand-held devices can be tricky as it is so easy to dri� off into different direc�ons and distances from the face. Please make sure to protect the eyes during use.

MICRONEEDLING What are your thoughts on the efficacy of at-home microneedling? What are the main benefits?

At-home microneedling is a li�le less easy to do at home when compared to LED masks. The main benefit of microneedling overall is that we are crea�ng a controlled micro-injury to the skin

which in turn induces collagen deposi�on. The texture of your skin and evenness in skin �me generally improves too. In clinic, we use microneedling to break up scars, reduce capillaries and improve skin elas�city. Some of these more advanced results cannot be done at home as they require a different needle depth and technique. But everyone benefits from this kind of treatment. The at-home devices have very short needles, par�cularly when they are on a roller. The rollers need to swing into the skin as the roller moves, and then swing back out of the skin. This means that the needles need to be short to prevent unwanted trauma, which can cause skin problems. So, the take home message from me to your client is, microneedling is great but due to the constraints of the roller devices, the needles are short. This makes them safer to use at home, but their ac�on is more limited too.

What are some things to avoid or look out for with at-home microneedling devices?

When purchasing an at-home device, you are best star�ng small.

Do not buy or use anything more than 0.25mm length needles to begin with. Less is definitely more! I would recommend taking a look at an up-close image of the device too. Make sure it is easy to clean. When using skin rollers, it is not uncommon to create some small pinpoint bleeding spots on the face. You need to be able to wash this off easily. Definitely do no microneedle in any products into the skin. I have seen some terrible results when well-meaning people have used low-grade supermarket brand serums, or worses�ll, use their microneedling device before cleaning their face.

Any �ps for most effec�ve way to use microneedling for best results?

Start with a double cleansed face before microneedling. This ensures that you don’t create any kind of reac�on by accidentally injec�ng makeup or other products into your skin. Try to use the

roller in ver�cal strokes, from top to bo�om, rather than roll the microneedling roller backwards and forwards. This creates a more even experience and result and makes sure you cover your whole face evenly. Also, avoid going over your eyelids.

Try to remember to go over your nose too. This is the most sunexposed area on the face, so the more collagen you have in your nose the be�er. You might also get some reduced pigmenta�on too.

MICRODERMABRASION WAND What are your thoughts on at home microdermabrasion? What are some of the main benefits and risks?

Microdermabrasion is a mechanical/manual exfolia�on of the skin.

The top layers are removed with a ‘roughened’ diamond encrusted �p, leaving the so�er and newer skin exposed. It is important to go easy on the skin though. The top layer is only a few cells deep, so less is more. At home microdermabrasion tools are not one of my favourites, because this kind of treatment is so technique sensi�ve. Do it wrong, and you can do more harm than good. I would stay away from devices that are mechanical and rely on you rubbing your skin with an abrasive surface. The main reason for that is that you o�en can push too hard in delicate areas, such as around the eyes, and this either creates a graze or worse-s�ll, can actually stretch the skin. I would keep these kinds of mechanical/ manual devices to use on the arms, legs, or your back.

Is it be�er to use a manual exfolia�on tool, or an electronic gadget with a vacuum?

I prefer an electronic gadget that does not rely on you using too much pressure to get the result. The main problem with the more manual devices like the Revlon tool, is that although it is inexpensive, there isn’t too much reliance on the using the right

APJ 79

strokes and pressure. It is always difficult to navigate around the face - in par�cular, as we have our nose projected outwards, our eyes si�ng inwards. It is so easy to put too much pressure on the jawline and nose, as these sit a li�le more projected than the cheek.

Is this something you’d only recommend once a week for example, and only at night before applying products?

I would recommend star�ng slow with any new treatment. To begin with, use the device once a month, then every second week, and then eventually using a microdermabrasion device no more than once a week. But be�er yet, this is one probably be�er le� to the skin professionals. A�er microdermabrasion, you should apply hydra�ng serums, like Hyaluronic Acid, and then moisturiser. Sun protec�on is a must. Using a re�nol product is truly important too.

This helps to speed up your skin cycle so that your skin naturally performs and looks be�er and can cope with microdermabrasion treatments.

FACIAL TONING DEVICES Do these facial massage devices really help to contour the face and �ghten sagging skin? What’s your take? Why do they (or don’t they) work? Is this something you would recommend using daily for best results?

This one is one I would leave to the professionals. Sagging skin is definitely one of the most common complaints that I encounter daily in my prac�ce. But to be truly effec�ve, we need to reach the cells deep in the skin. Fibroblasts sit at least 2-6mm under the skin surface and are the cells responsible for manufacturing both collagen and hyaluronic acid. These cells need to be s�mulated to boost produc�on.

In-clinic, we might do this with microneedling, laser, radiofrequency and similar treatments that are capable of penetra�ng deep. The at-home devices just cannot get to the cells that produce �ghter, firmer skin. So, although the idea sound amazing, the results won’t be too groundbreaking with an at-home device. If you already own one, you can use them every day. They won’t harm your skin in anyway, but they won’t help a whole lot either.

ELECTRONIC SILICONE FACIAL CLEANSERS Do these tools really give a deeper clean? Is there also some benefit with regards to massage/ vibra�on func�ons? Can they really improve firmness and tone with regular use?

I do love a great silicone face cleanser. Their gentle vibra�ons do provide a deeper clean, by way of their ultrasonic cleansing effect.

I usually pop some cleanser right onto the brush, moisten my skin with water, and then turn the silicone cleanser on and run it over my skin. I love seeing all my makeup come off when I run it under water. More horrifying, but also truly sa�sfying, is that in the morning when I have no makeup on and I cleanse again, so many dead skin cells come off. My skin literally loves the depth of clean.

It is important to use gentle pressure, and make sure you also cleanse your neck. So many people forget to look a�er their neck, but you will be shocked with how much grime comes off your skin here.

When purchasing one, look for an easy to clean design. Stay away from bristle brushes as they are almost impossible to clean. And when you clean your skin, you want to start with a clean brush, so that you don’t inadvertently introduce more bacteria, or mould that might be building up on your brush.

RECENT TRENDS eBay microneedling devices – what are your thoughts?

Some people love to create an at-home treatment at home. I do understand that COVID-19 closures have meant that ge�ng to

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the skin clinic has not always been possible. What I have seen is devices being purchased off the internet and being used at home.

The microneedling electronic devices can harbour bacteria, bloodborne infec�ons and other nas�es in the moving parts. It is important that you stay away from cheap devices like this. One pa�ent I saw recently had a needle from a cheap eBay device break or dislodge into her skin. That was a tricky situa�on to fix as it needed surgical interven�on.

Skin penetra�on devices like this should be listed on the TGA device register to ensure that they are safe. In clinic, all our equipment devices meet this standard to ensure that the skin and people are kept safe. If purchasing a device over the internet, ask the seller for the ARTG number which will show you the TGA lis�ng. This is important to make sure the device does not cause you any harm.

FACE SHAVING Should I invest in a facial shaving device and what do they do?

Everyone loves flawless skin and makeup. You can buy simple “face shavers” from chemists and similar outlets. These simple li�le razors make it easy to achieve that. Essen�ally you use them in a downward direc�on on your face (don’t go against the grain) to remove the fine peach-fuzz (vellus hair). They are designed for single use, but depending upon your face, some�mes using one for just half of your face is best so you don’t drag against your skin or cut yourself. If using one, use short strokes, and manoeuvre around your nose and chin gentle to avoid cu�ng yourself. Avoid using ac�ve skincare ingredients a�er for at least 72 hours, so that you don't experience any redness or sensi�vity, and cover up with sunscreen.

In-clinic dermaplaning removes the vellus fine peach fuzz, but also the treatment removes the top layers of the skin in a gentle and controlled way, using a scalpel blade. The therapist runs the blade smoothly and gentle over the face in short li�le strokes. This provides the ul�mate in skin glow. Face shaving doesn’t quite provide the same benefits as in-clinic dermaplaning (which is definitely be�er le� to the professionals as there is a scalpel involved!), but you will feel smooth and glow a�erwards. Best yet, is that the hair doesn’t grow back thicker, as some people believe, and you are unlikely to get any in-grown hair, since the hair is being cut gently and at the right angle if you move in a downward mo�on.

JADE ROLLERS These are becoming popular. Should I invest in one and what do they really do?

What I like about these, is that without thinking about it you are performing facial massage. Facial massage is good for lympha�c drainage and keeping your skin invigorated. Although many jade rollers claim to be an�-ageing, they help mostly with skin circula�on and the cooling effect of the roller is great for an�inflamma�on and calming effects too. APJ

STAR PERFORMER

Dermatonics Clearskin® Balancing Face Oil

BRINGING RELIEF TO ACNE SKIN INTRODUCING THE LATEST DEVELOPMENT from the Dermatonics® team – Dermatonics Clearskin® Balancing Face Oil. The newest addi�on to the Dermatonics® product range is our unique and balancing face oil for clients with acne-prone and congested skin.

Dermatonics Clearskin® Balancing Face Oil has a light and beau�ful jojoba oil base which penetrates easyly into the skin as it is structurally very similar to the fa�y esters contained in the skin. Our new face oil also contains the unique ingredient to the Dermatonics® range – Curcuma xanthorrhiza. This unique species of the Curcuma family (also referred to as turmeric) has been demonstrated to have very high an�-inflammatory ac�vity, which is central to assis�ng skin prone to acne.

The ac�ve molecule behind the amazing benefits of Curcuma xanthorrhiza is the xanthorrhizol molecule. Several research studies have found mul�ple benefits for inflammatory condi�ons as well as having an�microbial proper�es and many more health benefits, which are 8-10 �mes more potent than the curcumin molecule.

highly beneficial proper�es for calming and soothing the skin, our unique balancing oil contains a high concentra�on of hemp seed oil.

Although many clients may feel they should not be pu�ng oil on their skin, which is already congested, we know that providing high quality, balanced and non-comedogenic oil is key to reducing the cycle of overproduc�on of sebum in the skin.

Hemp seed oil is one of the most beneficial and balanced oils, especially for those with acne-prone skin. Hemp seed oil also helps hydrate the skin, all without clogging the pores.

O�en over-cleansing or drying the skin is a contribu�ng factor to the cycle of excess oil produc�on and breakouts. Therefore, we must be gentle with acne-prone skin and replenish the skin with the appropriate oils.

We also know how great tea tree oil can be for acne-prone skin due to its natural an�bacterial ac�vity. However, this needs to be applied in a reasonable, diluted concentra�on, as tea tree oil can also be drying to the skin if applied in at a high concentra�on. Hence, our Dermatonics Clearskin® Balancing Face oil contains a suitable concentra�on to help address the bacteria in the skin appropriately, harnessing its benefits without drying the skin.

One of the newest ingredients to the Dermatonics® range is in our new face oil – baobab oil. What is unique about this ingredient is that is has really great regenera�ve capaci�es, and we need that for assis�ng the skin to regenerate a�er the damage that acne causes.

Even be�er, it contains a high concentra�on of natural vitamin C as well as natural fa�y acids and minerals. We have truly harnessed the best and purest of natures’ oils to create this unique and targeted face oil for your clients struggling with their breakouts.

For further informa�on please contact Donna Marcal from DERMATONICS 0430 582 508 E: donna@sentryca.com.au

In addi�on to other natural ac�ves with

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TECHNOLOGY

NEW ADVANCES IN CONTEMPORARY ELECTROLYSIS An interview with Maya Ercegovac

IN THE PREVIOUS ISSUE OF APJ we presented an ar�cle on electrolysis and why it is gaining popularity. To con�nue our inves�ga�on in this modality we interviewed Maya Ercegovac.

Maya is the Australian trainer for the interna�onal electrolysis course developed by the renowned Canadian company Dectro who deliver both electrolysis and aesthe�c qualifica�ons.

APJ Q1: MAYA, WHAT IS THE FUTURE DIRECTION OF ELECTROLYSIS? Electrolysis id shaping into a vastly and more exci�ng modality than in the past. This has been necessitated by the new advanced in modern machines that have extensive capabili�es and services that can be achieved. The new technology works with higher frequencies, faster speed and can allow us to achieve be�er results, more quickly and with a much more efficient pain threshold and in some instance, almost zero pain, something that was not possible with the old machines. This has contributed to a rise in popularity of this procedure, because ul�mately what people are looking for are results, but also comfort during the delivery of the treatment.

Essen�ally, the new devices can deliver three treatments – electrolysis, thermolysis and the blend method that combines high-frequency (thermolysis plus electrolysis). The new devices offer different speeds and frequencies allowing for quicker, be�er results and with poten�ally less skin damage than were possible with past technologies.

However, educa�on and training has now become more advanced, as the new technology can not only offer hair removal but can also offer galvanic facials to enhance skin-penetra�on of ac�ves, as well as cataphoresis that will allow skin to be disinfected, balanced, and supported against harmful microbial ac�vity.

Addi�onally, it can achieve thermal coagula�on for lesion removal, vascular capillary removal, milia extrac�on and skintag removal with greater ease.

The educa�on that is now available is quite impressive and at a higher level as a stand-alone qualifica�on. This is essen�al in order to achieve the level of treatment possibili�es with safety and efficacy. With inadequate training, we are seeing prac��oners struggle with poor technique and poor execu�on of their hair removal that o�en contribute to scarring and skin damage. It is therefore important to gain the correct level of educa�on as this will contribute to a successful career and excellent client demand and business growth.

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APJ Q2: WHERE DOES ELECTROLYSIS CURRENTLY FIT WITH OTHER MODALITIES? The treatment possibili�es of electrolysis are now vastly different than in the past. Electrolysis today doesn’t just offer hair removal capabili�es, but also offers skin treatment modali�es. Star�ng however, with hair, it can offer permanent hair removal, instead of hair reduc�on, which is the case with IPL or laser. Also, the challenges we experience with the darker Fitzpatrick skin types, say IV and V, (which are a problem with IPL or laser), are not a concern with electrolysis as electrolysis targets the hair bulb chemically and not through heat, as with the light-based approach.

Therefore, electrolysis is substan�ally more efficient and with greater capabili�es than IPL or laser hair reduc�on.

Addi�onally, the new technologies can also perform facial treatment, such as addressing pigmenta�on and vascular lesions, as well as the removal of skin tags which can be achieved with ease. Electrolysis is also a far more comfortable method of hair removal with the new technologies, and white hair can be easily and comfortably removed, as well as permanently.

APJ Q3: IN TODAY’S MARKET WHAT SKILLSETS SHOULD AN ELECTROLOGIST HAVE COMPARED TO THE PAST? That’s a good ques�on. In the past electrologists worked on basic hair removal. However, today, we have the knowledge, training, and ability to deliver a wider range of treatment solu�ons, par�cularly with individuals with medical condi�ons. These require a systema�c approach and more advanced skills in how we deliver the treatment. We are also required to have greater a�en�on to detail, as well as greater depth of knowledge and understanding of how certain medical condi�ons may impact the way we execute the service. With new advances in technology, we are now able to perform treatments with less discomfort and pain and with faster and more successful treatment outcomes. We are also able to successfully overcome many challenging problems that we were faced in the past. The good news is that the new technology is giving us the ability to overcome several past contraindica�ons. I believe electrolysis can be quite addic�ve, therefore many choose to specialise in it as their chosen profession as the perimeters of treatment possibili�es are vastly greater than in the past.

APJ Q4: HOW MUCH TIME IS REQUIRED TO TRAIN EFFECTIVELY? For the training that we deliver we require 300 hours with 180 hours covered in class and the remaining can be completed

through online study. The course we offer is comprehensive and has 15 units of study. The reason for this dura�on is so that the correct skills can be competently deliver. This happens gradually.

The technique is very detailed, and it is important to determine how far you need to go into the dermis to avoid scarring and permanent skin damage, which we o�en see with insufficient training. Also, there are skills that need to be developed for the various treatment op�ons and for the various skin condi�ons and loca�ons where hair needs to be removed.

APJ Q5: WHAT ELEMENTS ARE IMPORTANT IN THE CONSULTATION PROCESS? There are several as this procedure is not a one-off treatment, it requires a treatment plan. It is therefore cri�cal that a comprehensive consulta�on process is undertaken that includes an in-depth dialogue between the prac��oner and the client/ pa�ent to determine any poten�al contraindica�ons, a review of their medical history, and any medica�on they are on. The prac��oner will need to carefully check any underlying condi�ons to determine safety perimeters and ascertain aims and poten�al results. As a rule, the consulta�on process will usually require 3045 minutes to complete, as it is the founda�on on which the treatment plan will be determined. Other issues that will need to be discussed will include the dura�on of the treatment plan, the frequency of the treatment, the budget, and the expected outcomes.

program, such as the interna�onal training we offer through Dectro cover all the necessary anatomy and physiology, bringing someone to the correct level of knowledge and skill to deliver these procedures.

6. A laser or IPL prac��oner who wishes to help their clients with both permanency of hair removal, or for the removal of vellus hair or while hair with no pigment.

APJ Q7: WHAT CONDITIONS CAN YOU TREAT OR SERVICE WITH THE NEW ADVANCES IN ELECTROLYSIS? While in the past electrolysis focused predominantly on simple hair removal, the new technological advances are expanding the capabili�es and scope of services they can provide to include much more. For example, here are some of the services you can provide with the new technology: •

Removal of skintags

•

Removal of vascular lesions

•

Permanent eyebrow shaping

•

Underarm hair removal

•

Bikini line

APJ Q6: WHO WOULD BE A GOOD CANDITATE TO TRAIN IN ELECROLYSIS? There are several key a�ributes that are needed for a good electrologist these include:

•

White hair that cannot be removed with light-based applica�ons such as IPL or laser

•

Polycys�c Ovarian Syndrome condi�ons of excessive hair

1. Good eyesight and a strong a�en�on to detail.

•

Transgender hair removal treatment

•

Certain cancers such as in the case of throat cancer.

2. Ability for good wrist dexterity.

4. Caring and pa�ent disposi�on and a willingness to be compassionate in helping others.

Another considera�on is that during challenging economic �mes electrolysis offers a more cost-effec�ve way of providing efficient hair removal, as well as addi�onal services without the financial layout that is needed to purchase light-based technologies, not to men�on their maintenance costs. This together with their ability to deliver more comfortable treatment execu�on is contribu�ng to the constant growth of electrolysis as a valuable and favorable modality on several levels. APJ

5. While it is helpful to have a beauty therapy of nursing background some of the more comprehensive educa�onal

For further informa�on you can contact MAYA ERCEGOVAC holoacademy@icloud.com or 0410 303 809.

3. As this procedure requires a great deal of concentra�on a prac��oner will need to have good health and have a strong and stable nerves.

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TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS

HOW TO DEVELOP RESILIENCE AND A WINNING MINDSET IN HARD TIMES THERE IS SO MUCH TALK ABOUT RESILIENCE especially when we need to learn to live through long-term challenges such as what we are all currently experiencing. But what is resilience and how can we develop it and master it during difficult �mes?

When you think of the characteris�cs of resilience you usually think of one’s ability to bounce back from difficult �mes and challenges. In fact, the origin of the word means “the act of rebounding” and is derived from ‘resiliens’ which means ‘to recoil or rebound’. While some people have a seemingly natural capacity to bounce back from adversity, others do not. But resilience can be learned.

Resilience will serve you well throughout your life. Once mastered, you can always draw upon your past experiences, both physical and emo�onal to manage and overcome difficult �mes. In fact, learning to be resilient can also help to make you stronger; with each challenge you encounter, you can develop new skills

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and new ways of dealing with life.

Knowing you are resilient may help you develop the strength to pursue your life to the fullest without fear.

Along with resilience comes flexibility and adaptability. The more possibili�es you envision, especially during difficult �mes and challenges, the more you allow yourself to overcome and expand as a person.

Here are some ways to help you establish the right mindset in order to improve and strengthen your resilience: Embrace change: This should almost always at the top of your list. If you can accept that nothing stays the same, that there will always be flux, then you are star�ng with a leg up. All of us will be challenged many �mes in life by obstacles, both from within and without.

In many instances, we can overcome what tries to stop us or thwart us by one means or another. One way to strengthen our resilience is to accept and come to terms with the fact that change will be required of us during difficult �mes and to be mentally and emo�onally prepared for it. So, when the need for change arises, we can face it with determina�on and confidence instead of allowing it to defeat us.

Do not dwell on nega�ve thinking: This is much easier to say than do, but it’s true that if we can gain a handle on our thoughts, especially our nega�ve ones, we can actually take some posi�ve ac�on. Not only do we think nega�ve thoughts that keep us worried and anxious, but we fear the nega�ve outcome. Once we realise that nega�ve thinking has its roots in fear it helps us understand that this mindset will only lead us to hopelessness, and this will not allow us to find a solu�on. Fear makes us focus only on the worst that can happen and that will increase our stress and wear us down.

So how do we break this cycle? We shi� our thinking to something posi�ve, something to look forward to, something that is calming, or at least neutral. How do we do that? We go for a walk, we exercise, we meditate, we pray and we engage in something crea�ve. In other words, we change our “state” and give our brains a break from repe��ve nega�ve thinking. At the very least it’s very empowering to know we can do this if we want to, that our thoughts are within our control.

Business & Legisla�on, New Tools and Research Outcome

workdays are lost due to depression each year. Stress, anxiety, and other mental health issues compound this problem, leaving people less engaged, focused, and produc�ve.

Know thyself: It was the Greek philosopher Socrates that said: “To know thyself is the beginning of wisdom”.

Take an inventory of yourself so that you gain a clear understanding of your strengths and your weaknesses. Then fully acknowledge your strengths and accomplishments and never take them for granted. This is who you are and you can expect that they will stand you in good stead through difficul�es and challenges.

When you believe that “you can” you increase your ability to rise to the occasion, to deal with and resolve your conflicts and crisis.

Create Goals: The reason that goals are important is that they keep you on track to move forward. Without goals to aim for you can become vague and complacent and this will open the doorway to self-doubt and despondency.

If you are feeling a li�le down, but you have a goal to focus on, it can help you apply yourself and snap out of your fears and uncertain�es.

Develop Problem-Solving Skills: Research suggests that people who are able to come up with solu�ons to a problem are be�er able to cope with problems than those who cannot. Whenever you encounter a new challenge, make a quick list of some of the poten�al ways you could solve the problem. Experiment with different strategies and focus on developing a way to work through common problems. By exercising your problem-solving skills on a regular basis, you will be be�er prepared to cope when a serious challenge emerges.

Set goals high and monitor progress instead of specific results: Focus on being purposeful, rather than just being produc�ve. Set goals for yourself that are achievable but can push you just that li�le extra. With the current unpredictability we are facing, when faced with disrup�on that you have no control over, take the �me to go back and acknowledge your progress. What have you achieved since you have set your goals? Even if you are experiencing hindrances, focus on what you HAVE managed to accomplish and allow that to encourage you that you are moving forward rather focusing on the target goal you set for yourself. APJ

How you can help your staff?

Luckily, there are several ways you can support your employees’ mental wellbeing. Here are some simple examples: 1. Speak candidly about mental health.

The first step to bea�ng the s�gma is to stop trea�ng mental illness as taboo. Whether it’s an ar�cle you read, a program you have watched, or a personal experience you had, talking about it openly and without shame will help others realise they aren’t alone. Create an environment where your staff feel safe to talk to you if they are struggling in this area.

THE IMPORTANCE OF A MENTAL HEALTH PROGRAM IN THE WORKPLACE HOW MANY OF YOUR EMPLOYEES ARE CHRONICALLY STRESSED OUT? How many are ba�ling anxiety? Are any of them depressed? If these ques�ons seem difficult to answer, it’s because they are. It’s not always apparent when someone is coping with a mental health issue. Unlike a cold or a broken leg, the symptoms of stress, anxiety, depression, and other mental illnesses can be hidden or mistakenly explained away.

Why workplace mental health ma�ers Many businesses are so focused on client sa�sfac�on, but fall short when it comes to employee wellness. While it’s great that most businesses support physical health and wellbeing, this is only half of the equa�on. Our brains are just as crucial to our wellbeing, especially considering the detrimental effects mental illness can have on physical health, such as increased blood pressure, hormonal imbalances and heightened risk of cancer.

When an employee is suffering, so does their work. Depression has become the leading cause of disability across the globe, and it’s es�mated that 172 million

2. Keep the conversa�on going.

Workplace culture must be nurtured, which means you can’t just men�on mental health once and expect it to catch on. Find opportuni�es to incorporate strategies to help your employees recognise that you care.

The message you need to put across is that the business cares about the wellbeing of their staff and it is determined to provide appropriate support structures to prevent mental health impac�ng them in a way that will be detrimental to their health and produc�vity.

3. Include all levels of staff. Culture starts at the top, so it’s important that you lead the way. Your employees won’t believe that you genuinely care about their wellbeing unless you demonstrate the importance of mental health.

4. Pay a�en�on and be ready to help. If you do no�ce an employee behaving differently, for example, irritability or low mood, don’t hesitate to ask them if everything is alright. Remind them that you’re there to help.

5. Facilitate access to these resources.

Similar to the previous point, your staff won’t get much use out of the informa�on if it’s difficult for them to find. Eliminate barriers to access by

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TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS providing the content in a variety of formats (audio, video, wri�en, etc), and minimise the number of steps it takes for them to find it.

The importance of good nutri�on and good hygiene in keeping immunity at its peak.

While every business has implemented mandatory infec�on control measures to protect against the spread of COVID-19, it is also prudent and responsible to support yourself, your staff and your clients with strategically posi�oned informa�on on how to op�mise and keep their immune system at its peak through appropriate nutri�on and healthy lifestyle measures.

6. Priori�se confiden�ality and anonymity. Even though mental health might be normalised in your workplace, some people might s�ll feel uncomfortable discussing it, par�cularly if they struggle with addic�on, trauma, or suicidal thoughts. Reassure your staff that their privacy is your top concern, and that their use of mental health resources will never be monitored or tracked.

7. Design a mentally healthy work space. It’s important for your employees to feel energised and upli�ed by their work environment.

Research has shown produc�vity, engagement, and overall wellness increase when people feel comfortable in workspaces that feature natural ligh�ng, plants, and other posi�ve features.

8. Focus on the posi�ve. Mental illness is a serious issue, but it can s�ll be addressed in a way that makes people feel understood and appreciated, as this will give them hope. Always remember to leave your employees feeling that they can trust to reach out to you for help if they need it.

If you have a mental health program in place, check if it is working for you.

COVID-19 has created the need for many changes including a program that can support you and your staff to deal with the uncertainty the current environment is imposing on all of us, both financially and mentally.

To ensure businesses gain evidencebased support in this area APAN is launching the MENTAL HEALTH & BUSINESS PROGRAM (MHBP). This program has been designed specifically for our industry to provide tools that will support the business owner in introducing a clinically-proven strategic wellness plan to help prevent mental health issues in the workplace, as well as help the business to con�nue to operate produc�vely. To learn more, see page 106 for full details. APJ

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HAVE YOU INTRODUCED A STRATEGIC APPROACH TOWARDS PREVENTION AND IMMUNE SUPPORT IN THE WORKPLACE? We spend a lot of �me at work. Be it at our workplace or home do you know that we spend up to a third of our lives working?

The threat of COVID-19 has brought to light the cri�cal role that immunity plays in suppor�ng our health whether we are vaccinated or not. The health of our immune system will ul�mately determine how well our bodies will respond to stress, viruses or infec�ons. The fact is that the stronger our immune system is, the greater the chance we have at reducing the risk of disease and infec�on.

Regardless, I am certain we can all agree that none of us like the feeling of being sick.

Workplace disrup�on and the impact on the economy The pandemic has hit the economy very hard. We have seen how once booming businesses, both in our industry and in other sectors, have been brought to their knees, sadly, some even going into administra�on. This crisis has been so bad that the World Bank es�mates the global economy will shrink by 5.2% - the deepest recession since the Second World War.

A nutri�ous diet, one that is rich in micronutrients, vitamins such as omega3s, vitamin C, vitamin D3, probio�cs and zinc has been scien�fically proven to keep our immunity func�oning at its best.

Implemen�ng simple strategies is not only preventa�ve, it also reduces the risk, severity and dura�on of an infec�on. In addi�on, having adequate micronutrients in our diets also increases energy and reduces bodily fa�gue, enhances cogni�ve func�on and the development of bone and muscle strength.

Taking the lead in advoca�ng workforce immunity Advocacy for good nutri�on and personal hygiene progams should rank highly on the agendas of business leaders.

Within our industry several major cosme�c companies are now introducing nutri�onal supplements and whole food powders that are carefully formulated to op�mise not just skin health, but also to support wellbeing and immunity.

Companies such as Regul8 distributed by DMK provide an amazing nutri�onal system to op�mise gut health, supported by an�oxidants to help enhance skin health and immunity.

Advanced Nutri�on introduced to Australia by MargiFox Distributors offer an amazing selec�on of evidence-based nutri�onal supplements to support and enhance skin treatment results while also boos�ng wellbeing.

VITA-SOL has developed four highly pure wholefood powders consis�ng of organic fruit and vegetables to produce mul�ac�ve concentrates, gently extracted and tested for toxic heavy metals. The collec�on provides pure nutri�onal drinks and organic herbal teas that deliver cleansing, bioavailable an�oxidants, and

Business & Legisla�on, New Tools and Research Outcome

other nutrients to support gut health, liver, joints, bones, hair, skin and nails.

Other companies, such as ENTITY have introduced Radianix, a sublingual glutathione, known as the master an�oxidant and Restorix containing nico�namide enhanced with resveratrol and querce�n. This formula supports cellular health by increasing NAD levels and ac�va�ng an�-ageing molecules known as sirtuins that protect against telomere shortening. These are all scien�fically-validated formula�ons known for their purity and efficacy.

With the introduc�on of amazing highquality nutri�onal products, which not only provide support for the skin, but also op�mise immunity and energy levels, you now can include another ‘iron in the fire’ for be�er protec�on for your clients and staff. These op�ons offer a great opportunity to introduce a new level of care and immune support to all those you care about.

Addi�onally, suppor�ng a healthy workforce is a win-win for both employees and employers alike.

Employees benefit from improved work morale, while employers will benefit from improved produc�vity that comes from a happier and healthier workforce. APJ

LOCKDOWNS AND THE FUTURE OF BUSINESS OWNERS DURING THE RECENT WEEKS, we have been contacted by numerous business owners with regards to concerns with the growing frequency of lockdowns, which are crea�ng uncertainty for their future.

These concerns are coming from various States – predominantly from NSW, Victoria, Queensland and even Western Australia and South Australia.

We have also spoken to our solicitors who are confirming that the unrest is now resul�ng into several organisa�ons introducing

pe��ons pushing for change. As I discussed last week through a video our own pe��on through change.org is focusing on the urgent need for alterna�ve solu�ons to lockdowns. Our lawyers also confirmed that there is currently a class ac�on scheduled to go to the High Court regarding several issue of concern with the way COVID-19 is being handled and the mandates that are promoted.

Whether you support the vaccina�on ini�a�ve or not, one area we can all agree on is that an alterna�ve solu�on is needed as lockdowns are destroying businesses and are highly detrimental to the economy. While, when first introduced most business owners were willing to comply, their con�nued and repeated frequency is crea�ng panic and anxiety for many business owners. As a result, our members are urging us to step up and strongly advocate on their behalf.

CONCERN WITH NEW NSW BILL COVID-19 is now muta�ng with new variants and the future is looking more and more uncertain. While businesses are given the choice to recommend or mandate their staff to be vaccinated the new Bill introduced recently by NSW (Public Health Amendment (Vaccina�on Compensa�on) Bill 2021) is crea�ng a great deal of concern. Here is just one le�er we have received from a business owner:

“As CEO of APAN, I believe the a�ached proposed amendment to current NSW legisla�on should be of concern.

The NSW government appears to be abroga�ng liability to workers for mandatory vaccina�on. In conjunc�on with their (NSW Govt) pledge that doctors’ liability is waived, it appears that businesses will bear the life�me financial liability to workers for any deleterious effects under this proposed legisla�on. There needs to be more transparency and discussion on this topic because it opens a Pandora’s Box of problems, not the least of which is a client suing if they become infected by a worker who is unvaccinated.

Your comments would be welcome”. L.MW., Director of Clinical Aesthe�cs.

PETITIONS CURRENTLY BEING PRESENTED TO PARLIAMENT There is currently a movement happening for change and for a more workable approach to safety, as many businesses are faced with insurmountable challenges. While APAN is here to support you through various ini�a�ves, we must also face the reality that change is needed. We wish to alert you to several pe��ons that you may wish to inves�gate and support. The �me has come to unite our voices as the con�nua�on of the current approaches will destroy businesses on so many levels.

Here are just a few: PETITION EN2855: At the �me of wri�ng this report a pe��on EN2855 request the Rights for Ci�zen to Use Alterna�ve Means of Protec�on was signed by over 54,000.

This pe��on closed on 12th August.

The Pe��on The pe��on addressed that millions of Australians are extremely concerned about the Federal Government's push to force has�ly approved and poorly tested novel vaccines on the popula�on, when adequate long term safety data is unavailable. It is also of great concern that many notable doctors and medical researchers repor�ng successful treatment using cheap, safe generic an�viral drugs appear to be ignored by the government and TGA, due to these generic drugs being of li�le commercial value and not sponsored by pharmaceu�cal companies for approval by the TGA

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TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS Pe��on Request We therefore ask the House to formally request that the TGA assess the use of Ivermec�n and Hydroxychloroquine, in the recommended dosages and combina�on with complimentary drugs, based on the peer reviewed studies and data, and the recommenda�on of notable Australian medical researchers, such as Professor Thomas Borody and Professor Robert Clancy. h�ps://www.aph.gov.au/e-pe��ons/ pe��on/EN2855

Vaccina�ons, RT-PCR Tes�ng, COVID-19 Vaccina�on declina�on le�er, QR Code Template. We also believe that she is ac�vely pursuing a further class ac�on with the High Courts.

challenging situa�ons. Keep them in your back pocket so you are equipped to turn around a poten�ally nega�ve outcome. They may appear simple, but they work.

There are numerous other pe��ons circula�ng, addi�onally APAN will feature one on change.org available on www.apanetwork.com. It is disappoin�ng that we are forced to take such desperate measures, but the future of many businesses depend on change.

1. KEEP YOUR COOL … ALWAYS! This is the Number 1 rule to remember when dealing with a challenging client. Stay calm, and never let your own feelings spiral out of control. Responding to your client emo�onally or angrily is only going to escalate the situa�on. If you feel tense take a few deep breaths, keeping a slow and steady rhythm. It’s ok to wait a moment and collect yourself rather than responding immediately.

PETITION 3589: Problems with PCR Tes�ng Results.

Another pe��on to the Queensland Legisla�ve Council that will close on the 12 September.

The Pe��on: Queensland residents draws to the a�en�on of the House that there is overwhelming evidence that the Reverse Transcrip�on Polymerase Chain Reac�on (RT-PCR) test (PCR test) to detect SARSCoV-2 is seriously flawed and not fit for purpose. (check the link for full details h�ps://www.parliament.qld.gov.au/workof-assembly/pe��ons/pe��ondetails?id=3589

Remember not to take your client's behaviour as a personal offense. They might be under pressure through personal problems at home, or maybe they're just having a horrible day.

Whatever the reason, try not to be offended - you never know their exact situa�on.

The Request: Your pe��oners, request the House to call upon the Chief Health Officer, to provide the people of Queensland within 30 days: a. the cycle threshold of the PCR test in Queensland b. the irrefutable evidence used to jus�fy the use of PCR test and its threshold c. the future of the PCR test in Queensland, given the CDC announcement.

ADVOCATE ME: h�ps://www.advocateme.com.au/ templates Serene Teffaha is the CEO of Advocate Me. She has 15 years of experience as a prac�cing lawyer who has developed several templates for people who wish to reference scien�fic papers in their pe��oning. These include Masking, COVID-19 Vaccines suppor�ng research papers, Manda�ng COVID-19 and Flu

APJ 88

THE EIGHT BEST WAYS TO DEAL WITH ANGRY, EMOTIONAL, OR DIFFICULT CLIENTS As much as you try to deliver flawless services and maintain great client rela�onships, you're bound to run into some difficult client situa�ons – it's part of doing business, and in par�cular since COVID-19 with stress levels soaring, emo�ons and anger can be easily challenged, despite your good inten�ons.

Whether some aspect of your job management cycle doesn't go according to plan or your client is just having a bad day – it's important that you are prepared to manage angry, frustrated, or emo�onal clients.

In this ar�cle we outline seven strategies to help you manage and diffuse

2. ACKNOWLEDGE THEIR FEELINGS When someone is firing aggressively or with emo�ve language at you, it’s easy to roll your eyes and dismiss them as crazy. But disregarding a client’s feelings will only inflame them more. It’s crucial that you acknowledge their emo�ons whether or not they’re jus�fied - so your client feels like they’ve been truly heard. The following statements can help: a. “I understand this situa�on is frustra�ng for you.” b. “I know this is a sensi�ve topic, and that you’re worried about your business.” c. “I understand this has caused you real stress and concern.”

O�en just acknowledging their feelings will be enough to calm them down.

3. WAIT FOR THE CALM If it gets to the point where you client loses control and is yelling insults or

Business & Legisla�on, New Tools and Research Outcome

failing to manage their emo�ons, you need to have pa�ence. Wait it out. If you a�empt to argue with them in this state no logic is going to break through. Try to let your client get their feelings off their chest without interrup�ng. Don’t take the ma�er personally. Avoid telling them to calm down - this can feel extremely patronising, and will o�en have the opposite effect. And above all do not scold them, it will only inflame the situa�on.

If things have really escalated politely suggest taking a 10-minute breather.

Ask if they would a like a glass of water or coffee, or if they’d prefer to reconvene on another day. Try not to judge them for things said in the heat of the moment.

4. PRACTICE ACTIVE LISTENING While it’s important to placate an angry or emo�onal client, you should also take their comments on board.

Do they have a valid reason to be so distressed? Why do they feel let down by your business? Were your ini�al promises or communica�ons misleading? Listen to the message rather than the tone of voice.

Ac�ve listening means really stopping and diges�ng the words your client says. If you’re simply imagining your rebu�al while they talk, that’s not ac�ve listening. Here are some �ps: a. Put aside distrac�ng thoughts b. Don’t mentally formulate your rebu�al while they’re speaking c. Never interrupt d. Make eye contact e. Ask ques�ons for clarifica�on f.

Repeat their points to show understanding

g. Keep an open posture (no closed arms) By really listening to your client’s problems, you may discover ways to improve your service, business

processes and communica�on going forward.

5. FIND A COMMON GROUND Try to find some common ground early in the conversa�on. If you only focus on the point of disagreement, your client will feel like they’re banging their head against a brick wall. Here are some statements that may be helpful: a. “I think we can agree that the results from this experience for you did not go as expected.” b. “I know we are both eager to find a mutually beneficial solu�on to this.” c. “We both want to get the best results from for you. Let’s make a plan that works for everyone.” d. “I know we’re both keen to get these delays resolved as fast as possible.”

Establishing that you have things in common can help generate feelings of empathy and understanding. You don’t want to be at loggerheads for the whole conversa�on.

6. ESTABLISH CONTROL WITH FACTS When tensions are running high it’s easy to get off topic, or end up discussing tangen�al details.

Anecdotes or argumenta�ve statements can quickly veer the mee�ng off course. If appropriate make sure you have on hand any consulta�on or consent agreement that you may have and that they have signed. Having these facts at hand will help you establish control of the conversa�on.

Use the paperwork to back up your posi�on, the formal contract if applicable. If they ignore these wri�en points calmly repeat them un�l they sink in. Make it clear that you will not budge on factual informa�on.

7. END WITH A CONCRETE PLAN Always conclude the mee�ng with a concrete plan for moving forward, and email a summary of this to the client. This means the mee�ng outcome can’t be disputed. Include �meframes and specifics. This is also

important in the event that the dispute may result in a li�ga�on case. At this point, whether the client has threatened to take legal ac�on or not please no�fy your insurance company and follow their recommenda�on.

If you didn’t manage to reach a mutually agreeable solu�on, make sure you set a date for a follow-up mee�ng. Remember that it’s in your own interest to deal with unhappy clients as fast as possible. The longer the disagreement drags on, the more likely the client will complain publicly or leave nega�ve reviews of your business.

8. STOP POTENTIAL PROBLEMS BEFORE THEY START Following these steps will help to resolve most conflicts. But the best approach is to avoid difficult clients in the first place!

Have you ever experienced a bad gut feeling when mee�ng a new client?

Your stomach forms a li�le knot when their name pops up in your inbox. We all find it hard to say no to poten�al new business, but o�en it’s be�er to act on your intui�on. The most difficult clients aren’t worth it because of the profits they’ll cost you in the long run.

Here are a couple of red flags to watch out for when mee�ng new clients: a. Asking for a discount. A client trying to wrangle down your standard rates is usually a bad sign. It means they don’t respect the true value of your work and may try to squeeze freebies out of you later on. b. Reluctance to pay a deposit. If you’ve explained your payment process but they’re reluctant or fidgety about paying a deposit, this is a red flag for obvious reasons. You’re likely to end up chasing payment, down the line.

Conflict resolu�on does not need to be a painful process. With a few wise communica�on skills you can avoid taking things personally and staying focused on resolving the issue at hand rather than allowing yourself to get emo�onal and upset. APJ

APJ 89

AYURVEDA

Ayurvedic Dermatology THE CONNECTION BETWEEN MIND AND BODY is something that is scien�fically validated and is now used extensively throughout various disciplines. Contemporary studies in neuroscience are iden�fying health and lifestyle principles that can allow us to be�er understand both selfcare, as well as see them incorporated in integra�ve prac�ces.

Addi�onally, there are ancient cultures that have based their healing prac�ces on a philosophy of mind/body connec�on, albeit that they achieve this through their own pathways that differ from Western thought yet aim at similar objec�ves of restoring health and wellbeing. One of these is Ayurveda. In modern �mes we are seeing Ayurvedic principles entering the beauty, health, and wellness industry, through the use of various treatment protocols, as well as skincare formula�ons.

In this ar�cle Danielle Hughes presents some of the basic principles of Ayurvedic Dermatology. It is important to note that if you wish to incorporate any of these principles in your prac�ce that you seek appropriate training to ensure both safety and efficacy.

Translated, Ayurveda means “knowledge of life” and refers to a tradi�onal system of medicine, believed to have been passed from gods to sages, and in turn doctors. Origina�ng in India, it is believed Ayurveda dates back to the Indus Valley civilisa�on. In fact, Ayurveda is most likely the only form of prehistoric medicine s�ll prac�ced today. Most recently, the field of Ayurvedic Dermatology has evolved with prac�ces being integrated into modern skin management strategies.

THE BASIC PRINCIPLES OF AYURVEDIC MEDICINE The eight branches of Ayurvedic medicine are iden�fied in the Ashtangahrudayam: 1. General adult medicine 2. Paediatrics 3. Surgery APJ 90

The wisdom of the past providing solutions for the present Danielle Hughes

4. Ophthalmology 5. Psychology 6. Toxicology 7. Rejuvena�on 8. Reproduc�ve These eight systems relate specifically to the five elements of the human body: earth, water, fire, air, and space (or ether).

Combina�ons of these five elements are bio-energies and it is these bio-energies that govern bodily func�on. Also known as tridoshas, the three bio-energies that may populate our body are: 1. Vata – space and air 2. Pi�a – fire and water 3. Kapha – water and earth According to Ayurvedic medicine bio-energies impact our physical and emo�onal being and each of us has a unique balance of these energies. Some of us are predominant in one, whilst others may be a combina�on. Ul�mately, dis-ease, is described as the end point of living outside the harmony of your unique energe�c balance. As an industry, we have rela�vely recently come to have a heightened understanding of the impact that psychological stress bears on the skin, a connec�on known as the brain-skin axis. Yet, centuries ago, we see this was already discussed and prac�ced in medical treatments. Now, it’s understandable that some of you reading

may think this is just too alternate or ‘woo woo’ but let’s note there are some recently published reviews of these prac�ces. For example, ‘Advanced in Integra�ve Dermatology’ published their 2019 textbook with an en�re chapter dedicated to Ayurvedic Dermatology.

AYURVEDIC MEDICINE AND SKIN CELLS Ayurvedic prac�ce asserts each of our cells possess their own vital energy, known as ojas. This energy allows our cells to repair and rejuvenate to correct imbalances that disrupt homeostasis.

Ayurveda has described the skin as ‘twag sara’ in the Charaka, one of the three notable Ayurvedic texts. Twag sara iden�fies key quali�es that skin should be - smooth, so�, lustrous and a sign of good fortune, happiness, and intelligence. The seven layers of skin described correspond to the seven �ssue systems of the body – plasma, blood, muscle, bone, fat, marrow, and semen. Therefore, Ayurveda can iden�fy that when there is an imbalance in blood for example, there is a corresponding response that manifests on the skin.

BIO-ENERGIES AND RESULTING SKIN CONDITIONS (KUSHTHA) Ayurveda prac�ces characterise certain skin symptoms can be a�ributed to predominant bio-energies of an individual.

•

Vata dominance resembles thin, bri�le and cracked skin; hair may be sparse and break easily and there is a decreased sebum secre�on; the colon (large intes�ne) is the main seat of vata energy.

•

Pi�a dominance may see increased sebum produc�on, warm and shiny skin, and risk of photosensi�vity; excess pita energy may cause balding; nails may be flexible; the small intes�ne, skin and liver represent the main seat of pi�a energy.

•

Kapha dominance may appear as a waterlogged skin with surface thickness, oil flow and an overall cool thermostat; the stomach and lungs are the main seat of kapha energy.

•

Vi�ligo – aggravated pi�a

•

Psoriasis – vata and kapha dominance/imbalance

Age-management has also been described in Ayurvedic texts as the act of ‘arres�ng’ the ageing process through maintaining a balance between the tridoshas (bio-energies) and undertaking daily rituals such as the intake of an�-ageing herbs, exercise, and mindfulness.

MANAGEMENT OF SKIN CONDITIONS BASED ON AYURVEDIC MEDICINE Disclaimer: Some ayurvedic prac�ces hold significant risk for an individual and must only be prac�ced a�er a thorough consulta�on with a medical prac��oner.

There are four prac�ces that support cleansing and rejuvena�on of the individuals disrupted bio-energies and may therefore yield a posi�ve outcome on resultant skin condi�ons.

•

Cleansing Elimina�on of toxins through purging and emesis or vomi�ng, and bloodle�ng. The ini�al management of disease starts here.

•

Pallia�on Prescrip�ve treatment with herbs and minerals, diet, and lifestyle, supplemen�ng where needed, fas�ng, yoga, breathing and medita�on are then introduced. The focus during pallia�on is to improve diges�on, eliminate toxic waste, and rebalance energies. Ginger is widely used.

•

Rejuvena�on and (iv.) Psychotherapy During these prac�ces, an individual must reconnect their mind, body and soul. This is achieved by introducing rou�ne exercise, consistent sleep-wake cycle (up at sunrise), daily stress management techniques, healthy diet supported by herbal medicine and oils and sexual ac�vity.

PRACTICAL TAKE-HOMES FOR BEAUTY AND DERMAL THERAPISTS In conclusion, Ayurveda has existed long before modern medical prac�ce – deeply rooted in certain civilisa�ons and cultural beliefs. Advances in dermatology are poin�ng to an integra�ve approach – combining pharmaceu�cal with ‘alterna�ve’ methods that have yielded success since ancient �mes. In fact, within the beauty and dermal arena, we are seeing such an emphasis now on treatments that support mindfulness, breathing, lifestyle, diet, and overall wellbeing as a holis�c approach to trea�ng common skin disorders such as acne and derma��s.

According to ‘Advanced in Integra�ve Dermatology’, the following skin condi�ons, commonly seen in beauty and dermal prac�ce, can relate to imbalance of one or more bio-energies: •

Derma��s – can be categorised based on the domina�ng energy and characteris�cs will vary from cold, clammy derma��s (kapha) to red, inflamed, and swollen derma��s (pi�a)

•

Acne – predominantly pi�a, but all three bio-energies are involved

With all forms of medicine, tradi�onal or modern, there may be risks and adverse effects. As an individual, it is your responsibility to access the informa�on and make an informed decision about treatment. As a professional, a referral would be needed to safely ascertain an individual’s suitability for certain Ayurvedic treatments.

Ul�mately, the prac�ce of Ayurveda relates on a connectedness within and between each system of our body, harmony between these systems and our inner energy and homeostasis or balance – and this is something we can all agree, holds significant merit for inves�ga�on in successfully managing long term skin health. APJ

APJ 91

INGREDIENTS

BEAUTY BOTANICALS Which botanicals make the most promising skincare ingredients?

ONE OF THE FASTEST GROWING TRENDS IN SKINCARE IS THE EVER-GROWING ADVANCES IN BOTANICALS. Not long ago, the words organic and botanically based applied mainly to things we ate, like supplements, swallowed in pill or powder form.

When it came to skincare, botanicals were not highly regarded as due to their molecular size they were only considered to provide superficial benefits in barrier func�on, protec�ng only the epidermis from external environmental damages.

Another issue of concern, par�cularly with organic skincare, was that o�en they were not rigorously formulated with sufficient preserva�ves and therefore were subject to deteriora�on of their ac�ves, as well as the poten�al contamina�on of the final product especially a�er the product was opened and used. However, with the advancement of biotechnology, and research studies valida�ng ingredient bioac�vity, botanical formula�ons are experience a breakthrough in both safety and efficacy rivalling many synthe�c ingredients.

In terms of consumer percep�on, it makes sense that given the inordinate energy we spend ve�ng what goes into our bodies, shouldn’t we devote the same scru�ny to what goes onto the-skin as well?

BETTER BOTANICALS According to several global consumer studies these are boom �mes for botanical beauty and plant-based personal care. And as suppliers refine their selec�on of botanical ingredients, the benefits both to consumers and to brands promise only to grow.

“Natural, sustainable, and plant-based beauty is taking a major stake-hold in the market today,” declares Paula Simpson, nutricosme�cs formulator and founder, Nutribloom Consul�ng (New York and Toronto. “Plant-based and botanical ingredients are a natural fit within this category.”

Of course, botanical ingredients have been standard in personal care since before it was even a category. However, many of the past limita�ons are now overcome. The difference is that science is finally catching up to the folklore, elucida�ng how whole-plant or isolated phytochemical ac�ves work, either systemically or

APJ 92

topically for natural beauty. From large group categories, such as carotenoids and polyphenols-with their effects on oxida�ve stress, inflamma�on, epigene�cs, or even the microbiome, to isolated ac�ves that target a specific mechanism of ac�on, botanicals offer a mul�tude of benefits and a variety of claims that both nutricosme�c and natural skincare products can capture.

NOT JUST TOPICALS Even be�er, contemporary extrac�on and processing methods are improving ingredient quality, stability, and effec�veness, while gran�ng consumers the transparency on the issues of safety that they prize. These advances are giving botanical beauty ingredients more than just a cosme�c role, as many purified ingredients are how being included in inges�ble products, suppor�ng system health and beauty from within.

Another trend we are seeing is the shi� toward using botanicals as performance ingredients because they are now proven to deliver be�er benefits that can match some tradi�onal synthe�c ingredients. This advance happened as technology evolved to process them into stronger ac�ves and to measure performance, thereby demonstra�ng efficacy.

Contemporary purifica�on and standardisa�on methods for natural ingredients also ensure the ac�ve ingredients’ stability as well as their performance consistency, which is important with a botanical that can vary from season to season.

WORKING AT DEEPER LEVELS Advances in biotechnology are now able to be�er understand how botanical ingredients act on the skin, hair and nails-enabling brands to fine-tune formula�ons to target benefits. In most cases, a botanical’s mechanism of ac�on produces a physical effect, such as moisturising, or enhancing the skin’s barrier func�on. But at a deeper level, the bioac�ve phytocompounds exert effects on cell signalling and at the gene�c level to modify inflamma�on, protein synthesis, cell growth and division-rejuvena�on-and, ul�mately, cell longevity.

It is encouraging to see that some nutricosme�c beauty botanicals are demonstra�ng impressive results in helping inhibit forma�on of advanced glyca�on end products (AGEs), which research implicates in exacerba�ng myriad age-related skin deteriora�on

including those that weaken skin. Meanwhile, other ingredients squash free-radical and singlet-oxygen-induced lipid peroxida�on and prevent the fragmenta�on and degrada�on of collagen and elas�n fibres.

Addi�onally, a variety of botanical extracts are now proven to effec�vely work on pigmenta�on providing an�-ageing proper�es by inhibi�ng tyrosinase enzyme and melanin produc�on, as well as protect cells from harmful UV radia�on. There are several botanicals with proven an�oxidant protec�on, improve hydra�on and promote synthesis of fibrous proteins in the dermis.

INTERNAL SUPPORT It is a well-established fact that visible signs of ageing like wrinkles and sagging, are ul�mately impacted by both extrinsic and intrinsic factors. There is therefore a growing trend towards a targeted team approach using both topical applica�on and ingested nutrients to support and op�mum results through a synergis�c approached, compared to using either topical or internal alone.

The objec�ve of internally ingested supplements or nutri�onal powers is to support overall health and nourish the blood to deliver enriched benefits to the skin. However, how well nutrients reach the skin internally is not an easy thing to determine, as there are diges�ve and other considera�ons that may need to be overcome. For this reason, inges�ng beauty botanicals can deliver results much slower than topically applied products on the skin.

Regardless, whether through a healthy diet or through topicals, it is now a well-established fact that beau�ful skin can only be achieve through a healthy skin.

This consumer trend is experiencing a growth in mul�-botanical formula�ons that deliver more therapeu�c aspects, such as calming inflamma�on, resolving itchiness and skin irrita�on, hair loss and of course las�ng moisturisa�on is always essen�al.

Whatever perks consumers seek, they’ll likely keep looking for them in the garden as the hunger for naturally derived ingredients will con�nue to grow, while they will also con�nue to expect product that will work to resolve their needs. With today’s botanicals, they can have both.

NEW ADVANCES IN BOTANICALS We have already covered several in this issue of APJ – one being Edelweiss. But let’s have a quick look at a few others: Fruit-Derived Polysaccharides We know that fruit extracts, such as apple, pineapple, peach, apricot, jujube, and goji berry, have high levels of pec�n-based polysaccharides that are good at locking in moisture because of their enormous, complex honeycomb molecular structure. These compounds are water-based and leave no oily sheen, and can replace synthe�cs like carboxymethylcellulose and carbomer, too, he adds. Another good example is from Japanese Elm bark, which has been compared to hyaluronic acid in terms of efficacy.

However, to ensure peak efficacy, water extrac�on of fruit-derived polysaccharides is best, if the products made via ethanolic extrac�on to maximise polysaccharide content.

Cannabidiol (CBD) Cannabidiol (CBD), the non-psychoac�ve cannabinoid found in hemp and marijuana, has been subjected to numerous case studies discovering how this botanical ingredient can “codeswitch,” so to speak for both topical and injectable use.

Even though topical use of CBD is mainly marketed for transdermal absorp�on into systemic circula�on for pain relief and calming ac�ons, there are growing uses for local topical benefits, like reducing acne inflamma�on and addressing other inflammatory skin condi�ons, such as psoriasis and possibly general skin inflamma�on. Brands can also pair CBD with

agonists-like those derived from black pepper, clove, and cinnamon essen�al oils-to support cannabinoid receptors and enhance CBD absorp�on and ac�vity. Indeed, studies con�nue to support CBD as a clinically proven botanical with a mul�-benefit profile and I believe we will see it con�nually grow its presence for both its topical and internal use.

Succinic Acid This amazing ac�ve is derived from amber and is considered a game changer for acne. It works by controlling the microbiome. In a nutshell, succinic acid helps to clear up blemishes by suppor�ng your skin's natural peeling mechanisms to get rid of dead skin cells and unclog pores. It also helps to reduce the skin's sebaceous secre�on making it a match made in heaven for oily and acneprone skin types.

Bakuchiol The popularity of bakuchiol is constantly on the rise. A highly acknowledge natural form of vitamin A, with extensive papers to support its ability to provide similar benefits to re�nol, but without the risks of irrita�ons.

Andrographis paniculata Prac��oners of both Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine have turned to the South and Southeast Asian herb Andrographis paniculata for centuries, prizing its an�bacterial, an�fungal, even its adaptogenic benefits. Its most pronounced and unique an�-ageing effects, with evidence of a clinically proven mechanism of ac�on. Topical applica�on of the extract appeared in a study to increase epidermal stem cell prolifera�on and boost type-1 collagen produc�on in normal human fibroblasts. The researchers found that eight weeks of treatment improved skin hydra�on, dermal density, wrinkling, and sagging, leading them to suggest that A. paniculata is a promising an�aging agent.

Artocarpus Lacucha What could possibly be be�er than resveratrol, the polyphenol credited with everything from the “French Paradox” to figh�ng oxida�on? If the research is to be believed, the answer may be its cousin oxyresveratrol, derived from the dried heartwood of the monkey fruit tree (Artocarpus lacucha).

One study found the compound to be 150 �mes stronger than resveratrol-and 32 �mes stronger than kojic acid in its ability to lighten skin and poten�ally even out skin tone. Another study reinforced the compound’s superior an�oxidant ac�vity, inhibi�on of the tyrosinase enzyme, and capacity to protect against UV radia�on. It is also known to reduce the forma�on of AGEs and the crosslinking of collagen.

Curcuma longa Botanicals are remarkably rich sources of compounds that inhibit the melanin-synthesising enzyme tyrosinase-making them key ingredients in formula�ons that aim to lighten skin tone. A fi�ng example comes from turmeric root (Curcuma longa), which is the source of the tetrahydrocurcumin. This ac�ve inhibits tyrosinase powerfully enough to slow melanogenesis and is more effec�ve than kojic acid, and vitamin C as a natural depigmen�ng agent. A randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled study involving 50 human subjects found a 0.25% cream prepara�on of the ingredient to be a safe and effec�ve alterna�ve to a standard 4% hydroquinone cream for topical depigmen�ng.

IN CONCLUSION While the world is moving more and more into high-tech solu�ons for absolutely everything, when it comes to skincare, it would seem that the treasures of nature have s�ll much to offer, as they con�nue to be the most promising and in demand. APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

APJ 93

REGULATIONS

UPDATE ON THE REGULATORY PROCESS OF BODY ART AND COSMETIC TATTOO INKS Tina Viney

THERE IS NO-DOUBT THAT BOTH BODY ART AND COSMETIC TATTOOING are ever-growing popular procedures. However, while they have certain similari�es, they are also hugely different with a very different consumer profile. Meanwhile there is a real concern that both body art ta�oo inks and cosme�c ta�oo (PMU) pigments are currently unregulated in any Australian jurisdic�on.

On-going inves�ga�ons into ink safety are iden�fying high risk inks and pigments, raising concerns by Australian regulators. Since 2019 an inves�ga�on has been under way to iden�fy hazardous and carcinogenic substances for the purpose of restric�ng their use.

Throughout this process, APAN has been communica�ng updates to the industry through our various pla�orms, invi�ng stakeholders to comment and provide feedback.

In May 2021 we put forward to the government recommenda�ons for how the proposed regula�ons could be implemented to achieve the safety objec�ves with the least industry disrup�on.

These were opposed by certain ta�oo interest groups because of poten�al commercial restric�ons. I have therefore been asked to provide an updated report on what happened and where the ma�er currently stands, which I will present here.

PIGMENT AND TATTOO INK SAFETY CONCERN The issue of safety for cosme�c and body art procedures has led to con�nued inves�ga�on into the safety of certain inks used in ta�ooing and PMU, especially as some fall into the category of hazardous industrial chemicals (e.g., as used in photocopier toner and car paint). As a result of the growth popularity for these procedures, the issue of purity and safety of pigments have been at �mes overlooked in the interest of be�er results and reduced costs.

The European Union introduced in December 2020 comprehensive uniform regula�ons across all 27 countries, having previously passed resolu�ons on ink safety that only some

APJ 94

member countries adopted into regula�ons (2003, 2008).

In Australia, on-going concerns on the issue of pigments and ta�oo ink safety was ins�gated by the Australian Industrial Chemical Introduc�on Scheme (AICIS).

For those who have not been updated, on 1 July 2020 AICIS transi�oned from the Na�onal Industrial Chemicals No�fica�on and Assessment Scheme (NICNAS) as the responsible body to oversee safety issues regarding chemicals including pigments and inks used for ta�oos and PMU. In August 2017 NICNAS published a report on the poten�al risks of certain ta�oo inks for the purpose of restric�ng their use through a regulatory ini�a�ve.

Subsequently, the Queensland Health, Environmental Hazards Unit was appointed to inves�gate the toxicity levels of various ta�oo inks as there was evidence that some are carcinogenic and should be removed from pigments and inks.

APAN was invited to be part of this working group and contribute to this process. As it was a technical undertaking, we appointed Robert McGowan to provide expert contribu�on to this process, as he possesses both the academic and technical skills in chemical safety. This process con�nued for two years, with a brief pause due to COVID-19 restric�ons.

THE PROBLEMS THAT NEEDED ADDRESSING In inves�ga�ng the various concerns here is what we iden�fied: The composi�on of body art inks and cosme�c ta�oo pigments have changed rapidly in the last 10 to 15 years, and they are now more similar than different. The days of pigments being only based on iron oxides are long gone. Ta�oo inks have evolved with the removal of toxic metals, such as lead and mercury, but now contain other toxins have been iden�fied. All are referred to as “inks” for simplicity herea�er. As no inks are made in Australia, everything used here is imported, typically from Europe, the USA or China.

Inks o�en contain ingredients and impuri�es that are classified as known or possible carcinogenic, mutagenic or reprotoxic substances. Some contain known allergens or skin irritants.

Meanwhile, there are three main drivers for manufacturers to include hazardous substances. More vibrant colours (body art ta�oos), be�er pigment reten�on (cosme�c ta�oos) and lower costs. Ingredients (the colours) are quite o�en the same as found in photocopier toner, car paint, waterproofing, plas�cs etc., with no risk assessment having been undertaken.

THE EUROPEAN POSITION Europe has had guidelines in place for ingredients and purity standards since 2003, with some member countries adop�ng them into regula�on. In December 2020, the EU adopted detailed uniform regula�ons across all member countries a�er extensive research and consulta�on by the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) with compliance required by January 2022.

THE SITUATION IN AUSTRALIA While currently unregulated, if Australia establishes similar regula�ons in line with European guidelines, then imports to Australia from Europe will almost certainly be compliant. US manufacturers selling into Europe will also need to comply. Some US manufacturers already label inks as “Not for sale in Europe”.

Without any Australian regula�ons, inks containing poten�ally hazardous or toxic ingredients and impuri�es will con�nue to enter Australia, par�cularly from the US and China. Chinese inks are a serious issue. Brands and labels are commonly ‘fake’, being (illegal) copies of European or US brands, but with unknown ingredients. Many Australian suppliers have taken to impor�ng Chinese products with their own brand labels (“private labelling”).

This is highly profitable, but the ingredients are unknown.

These issues will con�nue unless Australia chooses to implement regulatory safety standards. While we know that skin irritants and allergens tend to manifest rela�vely quickly, however, the effects of carcinogens may take up to 20 years to manifest, perhaps as a

comorbidity. In this context the recent trend to complex organic chemical colours (e.g., azo dyes) is a serious concern. In is also worth no�ng that ink ingredients in many cases do not comply with the Australian Poisons Standard.

THE RISKS FOR TATTOO REMOVAL Another concern that was iden�fied through our inves�ga�ons was the issue that laser ta�oo removal poses with special risks.

The concerns for those doing ta�oo removal arise from the release of the same materials into plume generated by the laser pulses used to fragment. One must recognise that chemical byproducts, which are not present in the ini�al ink, may be formed during laser ta�oo removal treatments. Such vapours will pass through exis�ng surgical masks and surgical respirators, even though these will stop very small solid par�cles.

With ta�oo removal, laser radia�on superheats the ink par�cles in the skin to sha�er them, but also causes major chemical changes, with the crea�on of carcinogenic amines, which is a serious risk.

Some of the EU restric�ons are based on poten�al laser treatment by-products. This par�cular concern is also important to cosme�c doctors as well as laser prac��oners who while they may not be performing ta�oo or PMU procedures, they are regularly approached for ta�oo removal, which is considered a major growth industry. Australian sta�s�cs indicate that one in three individuals who have received a ta�oo will wish to remove it at some stage in their life, while the latest figures state that approximately 25% of Australian have a ta�oo, with some having mul�ple ta�oos.

TATTOO-ASSOCIATED SKIN MALIGNANCIES Several comprehensive studies have reported a rise in the incidence of ta�oo-associated skin malignancies including postta�oo melanoma, basal cell carcinoma (BCC), and squamous cell carcinoma (SCC). (Please contact me if you require a copy of the scien�fic references as there are too many to include here).

Among cases of ta�oo associated skin cancers, black, blue and red

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ta�oo inks have been par�cularly worrisome in terms of their carcinogenic poten�al.

regards ta�oo inks or PMU. This applies to all 27 EU member countries.

Compared with older cases, reports indicate that more recent pa�ents who develop skin cancers on ta�oos are younger and have a shorter delay since the ta�oo applica�on. It has been suggested that new compounds with poten�al carcinogens reported in recent inks might be responsible for the development of skin cancers.

11 March 2021 – Queensland Health advised it would proceed with regula�on, with public consulta�on in April and implementa�on September 2021.

According to the Cancer Council of Australia, several carcinogens that have been found in ta�oo inks have been associated with cancers elsewhere in the body, such as the liver or bladder. Hence the issue is just not around cancers that develop immediately around the site of the ta�oo.

OUR INTERACTION WITH QUEENSLAND HEALTH On 27 August 2019 Queensland Health (QH) visited APAN and held a briefing where the proposed implica�ons for body art and cosme�c ta�oo pigment/ink regula�on was discussed and the need to submit a report in �me for when the latest Medicines and Poisons Bill would go before state parliament.

Queensland Health explained that the Departmental Standards – Ta�oo Inks would be made pursuant to sec�on 233 of Medicines and Poisons Act 2019 by the Chief Execu�ve of Queensland Health, that would establish procedures and requirements of use of products. The standard would also prescribe the requirements for a Compliant Analysis Cer�ficate (CAC) under sec�on 48A of the Act. In essence, once the regula�on was introduced anyone using ta�oo inks or PMU pigments would need to be able to present a Compliant Analysis Cer�ficate that their inks or pigments comply with the restric�ons and do not contain the iden�fied hazardous inks or pigments.

APAN advised Queensland Health of various logis�c, cost and �me-frame issues around their ini�al proposals. One or more similar briefings were held with the body art industry. Queensland Health indicated it was working with the na�onal industrial chemicals’ regulator AICIS, with the expecta�on that other states and territories would follow Queensland’s lead on regula�on.

Since then, the latest Queensland Medicines and Poisons Act was passed on 17 September 2019. Cosme�c ta�oo industry representa�ves were briefed on the proposed Queensland regula�ons at an APAN conference on 23 September 2019.

A working group was convened by Queensland Health involving body art and cosme�c ta�oo industry representa�ves, with APAN represented. The first mee�ng of the working group was held on 1 November 2019. Topics included the work of the AICIS on ink risks and safety, that some inks contain banned and restricted substances in the Australian Poisons Standard, and that the Queensland Health Minister had agreed on controls being implemented.

The second mee�ng was held on 11 December 2019. Proposal for regula�ons to be implemented March 2020. It was determined that the regula�ons would be based on a combina�on of the Australian Poisons Standard (Schedule 10), the 2008 European Union guidelines/regula�on, the work of the AICIS, and a Queensland Health risk assessment.

On the 9 July 2020, Queensland Health advises APAN-19 that due to COVID the delayed schedule for implementa�on is for public consulta�on commencing January 2021 and implementa�on 1 May 2021.

On the 14 December 2020 the European Union passes Commission Regula�on 2020/2081 “concerning the Registra�on, Evalua�on, Authorisa�on and Restric�on of Chemicals (REACH) as

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On 25 March 2021 the Debt Reduc�on and Savings Bill (DRSB) was introduced to Queensland Parliament including provisions for checking ink ingredients and impurity using a Compliant Analysis Cer�ficate (CAC), with penal�es for selling or using inks that do not have a CAC. The DRSB provisions would be effec�vely an amendment to the Medicines and Poisons Act 2019, which contained no provisions.

At the third mee�ng of Queensland Health working group on 12 May 2021, Queensland Health confirmed the basis of regula�ons (as above with EU 2020 update) and how CAC will work.

Compliance will be required by September 2021. However, the body art industry representa�ves who were present raised objec�ons and were very hos�le against the need for compliance as they believed there was no evidence of unsafe ta�oo inks and such a regula�on will send their industry out of business.

As a result, between April and May 2021intense lobbying was conducted by the Australian Ta�oo Guild and others to stop regula�on of inks. On 26 May 2021, I received a call from the Queensland Health Minister’s office confirming the Minister’s was commitment to ensure appropriate safety measures were introduced with regards to ta�oo inks and pigments, however, at this point of �me the Debt Reduc�on and Savings Bill (DRSB) would pass with ta�oo ink provisions withdrawn at this �me.

Despite this outcome many individuals and organisa�ons within the industry reached out to offer their support. Several industry organisa�ons, such as the Australian Society of Dermal Clinicians, the Australian College of Health and Wellness, academics such as Professor Laurence Walsh, Dr Eddy Roos and several other organisa�ons contacted the Queensland Health Minister presen�ng validated scien�fic evidence of toxicity and known carcinogens of certain inks including polycyclic aroma�c hydrocarbons that are an ongoing health concern and the urgent need for them to be removed.

IN CONCLUSION APAN’s posi�on is that we have a duty-of-care for both the safety of consumers, as well as those that work as PMU prac��oners, or may be required to remove ta�oos that may contain heavy metals and carcinogenic substance. It has been confirmed to us by the Health Minister’s office that the ma�er has just been deferred pending further inves�ga�ons. I am pleased to report that on 26 August, Robert McGowan, will be joining me and Jonty Bush, who is a Member of Queensland Legisla�ve Assembly and a great supporter of our industry, at a mee�ng with a senior advisor from the Health Minister’s office, to discuss the next step.

Regula�ons that relate to health and safety are always a very complicated process that require a great deal of technical knowledge and skill. They also require endless pa�ence, determina�on and tenacity, as well as an incredible amount of work. It is a long and arduous process with no financial support.

At this �me, I would like to acknowledge the excellent work that Robert McGowan has contributed to this process, while also enduring unwarranted a�acks. What we both try to remember is that this is not a poli�cal issue and we refuse to be dragged into it in that regard. Our inten�ons and commitment are purely about ensuring a safer industry and our recommenda�ons are strictly based on scien�fic evidence. What we aim to ensure is an outcome that will best protect our members, the public and the future of our industry as a safe and responsible one. APJ

REGULATIONS

NEW HEALTH REGULATIONS FOR COSMETIC NURSES The NSW Health Minister Brad Hazzard has issued an update to the Poisons and Therapeu�c Goods Amendment (Cosme�c User) Regula�on 2021 which has been published and commences 1st September 2021.

The new laws that apply to administering cosme�c medicines. Amendments to the Poisons and Therapeu�c Goods Regula�on 2008 will come into effect from 1 September 2021 to improve the safety of the use of cosme�c medicine in NSW. The regula�on will set addi�onal requirements rela�ng to the administra�on, storage and record keeping of medicines commonly used for cosme�c purposes, such as an�-wrinkle injec�ons and dermal fillers.

The new regula�ons will require that not just the nurse but also the business retain comprehensive records of the pa�ent. If you are opera�ng a salon or clinic that does not include a doctor to supervise these procedures, it is important that you adhere to regulatory requirements for which you will also be liable under vicarious liability for referring clients/ pa�ents to the nurse or doctor.

If you are not aware of your obliga�ons APAN can help. We have developed a Standards and Regula�ons Pack for businesses that offer injectable services.

NEW REQUIREMENTS UNDER THE REGULATION The new regula�on will: •

•

•

•

Prohibit a person other than an authorised prac��oner, or a nurse ac�ng under the direc�on of a medical prac��oner or nurse prac��oner, from administering cosme�c medicines (an authorised prac��oner includes a medical prac��oner, nurse prac��oner or den�st) Require a medical prac��oner or nurse prac��oner to personally review the pa�ent (including via audio-visual link) before issuing a direc�on to administer cosme�c medicines A wri�en direc�on has effect for the period specified in the direc�on, not exceeding six months from the date the medical prac��oner or nurse prac��oner personally reviewed the pa�ent If the cosme�c medicine is administered by a nurse, will require records of the direc�on to be made and kept by the medical prac��oner or other authorised prac��oner

•

If the cosme�c medicine is administered by a nurse, required records of the administra�on will need to be made and kept by the nurse administering on the direc�on of a medical prac��oner or nurse prac��oner

•

Set storage requirements on the occupier of the premises where cosme�c medicines are stored

•

Require businesses that provide services using cosme�c medicines to keep records made by the medical prac��oner or other authorised prac��oner, and by the nurse administering on the direc�on of a medical prac��oner or nurse prac��oner

•

Require businesses that provide services using cosme�c medicines to have appropriate risk management policies and procedures in place to protect the health and safety of pa�ents; appropriate equipment for use in a pa�ent medical emergency; and to ensure that nurses are adequately trained for pa�ent medical emergencies

•

Require businesses that provide services using cosme�c medicines to ensure that the regula�ons are complied with.

PENALTIES FOR BREACHING THE REGULATION A breach of the regula�on is an offence with a maximum penalty of between $5,500 to $22,000 and/or imprisonment for 6 months for an individual, and between $27,500 and $110,000 for a body corporate.

These restric�ons do not apply where the administra�on is undertaken by an authorised prac��oner themselves or by an employee in a hospital ac�ng on an authorised prac��oner’s direc�on.

WHAT IS CLASSIFIED AS COSMETIC MEDICINE? • botulinum toxins •

calcium hydroxylapa�te

•

collagen

•

deoxycholic acid

•

hyaluronic acid and its polymers

•

polyacrylamide

•

polycaprolactone

•

polylac�c acid

WHAT WILL THESE CHANGES INVOLVE? Currently cosme�c nurses are concerned that some of these restric�ons may be excessive. One such concern is that the amendment will reclassify the currently S4 drugs used in cosme�c medicine, including hyaluronic acid and botulinum toxin, to become S4(b). This will poten�ally restrict the ability of nurses to inject without a doctor on site. Remote or Skype consulta�ons will no longer be allowed under the proposed changes.

As a result, there is a Change.org pe��on circula�ng that aims to oppose the amendment, suppor�ng that Cosme�c Nurses that operate safely, diligently and within regulatory prac�ces should not be restricted. We understand that the pe��on has been supported with over 7,000 signatures in just one week since it was launched.

While APAN supports regula�ons, we also recognise that over-regula�ng can be detrimental to a qualified prac��oner. Many nurses, operate within non-medical clinics and salons that do not have a resident doctor. We believe that if a nurse has appropriate qualifica�ons and operates under medical supervision, this can be achieved without a doctor having to be physically present. If you are a nurse, we recommend that you consider signing this pe��on. APAN will also appeal to the NSW Government regarding this proposed amendment, and we will keep you posted on developments. APJ Contact us info@apanetwork.com or phone 07 5503 0360 and we can assist you.

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS

ALGORITHM FOR PRE AND POST-PROCEDURE MEASURES FOR FACIAL LASER AND ENERGY DEVICES TREAMENTS A panel of American dermatologists and plas�c surgeons led by Michael Gold has developed an algorithm for periprocedure measures for facial laser and energy devices treatment.

The algorithm has four sec�ons addressing preven�on, pre-procedure, during the procedure, and postprocedure measures. It provides a great tool to support an op�mal treatment outcome providing physicians with guidance to choose the best pre/postprocedure criteria for their pa�ents.

Preven�on is about issues the client needs to be aware of, such as adequate sun protec�on, oral an�viral prophylaxis, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmenta�on suppression.

Pre-Procedure emphasises pre-screening clients' importance and effec�ve consulta�on detailing complete medical and skin history to rule out poten�al risks of adverse effects.

Interes�ngly, it suggests recording why the client wants such treatment and

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complete informa�on for informed consent.

Intra-Procedure relates to adherence to an�microbial stewardship processes and skin cleanliness - Isopropyl alcohol is not recommended for irritancy and perhaps, more importantly, flammable. In-depth knowledge of the technology and parameters used.

Post-Procedure requires informa�on on adverse events and the difference between these and expected outcomes, such as erythema, oedema, crus�ng, along with wound healing detailed advice, all customised for the pa�ent.

I agree with anything designed to support op�mal treatment outcomes, which this algorithm does.

Gold, M., Andriessen, A., Goldberg, D.,

Grover, K., Hu, S., Lorenc, Z., Mandy, S., & Vega, J. (2021).

Algorithm for Pre-/Post-Procedure Measures for Facial Laser and Energy Devices Treatment.

Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 20(1).

(Suppl) s3-11 Adverse effects frequently are due to

Research and Scien�fic New Developments In every issue of the journal, Terry Everi� our scien�fic educator, conveys a few items of scien�fic interest. In italics, are his thoughts on the subject ma�er of the research study.

incorrect pa�ent selec�on, technology, skin prepara�on, lack of an�microbial stewardship and lack of adequate home care instruc�on and compliance.

While this algorithm is primarily for more invasive laser treatment, it can be used for all laser treatments to support op�mal treatment outcomes addressing preven�on, pre-procedure, during the procedure, and post-procedure measures, so o�en lacking.

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ALLERGIC REACTIONS MAY BE TIED TO THE CORTICOTROPINRELEASING STRESS HORMONES It is known that psychological stress exacerbates mast cell (MC) dependent inflamma�on, and this study gives an indica�on of how this occurs, at least for nasal allergy.

The significant stress media�ng neurohormone, cor�cotropin-releasing hormone (CRH), acts primarily as a potent MC secretagogue; CRH induces MC degranula�on.

By introducing CRH to a nasal polyp organ culture, researchers saw a significant increase in the number of mast cells, a s�mula�on of MC degranula�on and prolifera�on, and an increase of stem

cell factor (SCF) expression, a growth factor of mast cells, in the human nasal mucosa.

You can access the study for all the biochemistry involved. There are lots of how CRH induces the mast cells to 'degranulate', releasing the contents, thus causing the inflammatory process.

It appears that CRH has a dual role: short-term proinflammatory ac�on (mast

cell degranula�on) and a las�ng immunoinhibitory func�on (s�mula�on of local cor�sol synthesis by kera�nocytes).

Yamanaka-Takaichi, M., Mizukami, Y., Sugawara, K., Sunami, K., Teranishi, Y., Kira, Y., Paus, R., & Tsuruta, D. (2021).

Stress and Nasal Allergy: Cor�cotropinReleasing Hormone S�mulates Mast Cell Degranula�on and Prolifera�on in

Human Nasal Mucosa. Interna�onal Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2 (5), 2773 DOI: 10.3390/ijms22052773 CRH is the most proximal, key regulator of the central hypothalamic–pituitary–adrenal (HPA) stress response axis, which ul�mately controls the produc�on and secre�on of glucocor�coids in the adrenal gland.

Mast cells have a vital sen�nel func�on and

are involved in the pathobiology of various skin condi�ons such as atopic derma��s, psoriasis, and alopecia areata, all exacerbated by stress. Not surprising, given human peripheral �ssues also express func�onal HPA equivalents, including CRH, adrenocor�cotropic hormone, and cor�sol, and provide nega�ve feedback regula�on.

We also know that CRH operates on mul�ple levels in the skin, inducing the differen�a�on of epidermal kera�nocytes while in the dermis helps prolifera�on of dermal fibroblasts and melanocytes and produces proinflammatory cytokines. APJ

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS

ARE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS SO NECESSARY IN SUN PROTECTION?

10 (21%) reported typically looking at ac�ve ingredients when choosing a sunscreen; however, only 5 (11%) par�cipants recalled any of the ac�ve ingredients a�er viewing the sunscreen labels.

While ac�ves in sun protec�on were important to many, most had no idea what the ac�ves were or could recall them a�er looking at labels indica�ng that the ac�ves are a low priority for this group of consumers.

In a small yet exci�ng qualita�ve study from the USA, par�cipants were shown two sunscreen products and asked ques�ons regarding looking for ac�ve ingredients on a sunscreen label, the importance of ac�ve ingredients in their decision to buy and recall of any ac�ve ingredients the labels shown.

The mean age of the 47 par�cipants (32 female and 15 male) was 42.8 years, with 85% having a bachelor's or graduate degree.

13 (28%) stated that sunscreen ingredients influenced their sunscreen selec�on, yet only 5 (11%) said it was the most crucial informa�on. 34 (72%) stated that the sun protec�on factor ra�ng was essen�al informa�on.

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Previous studies found cosme�c elegance was the most posi�ve feature, followed by product performance.

Tribby, C., Julian, A., & Perna, F. (2021), Perceived Usefulness and Recall of Sunscreen Label Informa�on by Consumers. Journal of the American Medical Associa�on Dermatology, Published Online: March 24, 2021. doi:10.1001/jamadermatol.2020.5394 The ac�ve ingredients give the SPF and the product's essen�al func�on, yet the ingredients themselves are not a primary factor in their decision-making.The same can be said for the Australian consumer, which shows the need for consistent educa�on by skincare professionals as to the performance rather than the elegance of sun protec�on. APJ

ARE YOU FEEDING SKIN INFECTION WITH ARGININE? A joint research team from Osaka and Keio University's in Japan and the University of California San Diego found that Streptococcus pyogenes (S. pyogenes), a species of bacteria that can cause severe illness if it invades the human body, can survive on the skin using arginine as a source of nutri�on.

Not only can this bacterial organism cause skin infec�ons, but it can also cause life-threatening illnesses, such as sepsis and toxic shock.

S. pyogenes generally do not survive well on the skin. It has been unknown how it can cause such havoc on the skin, and it appears we now know why.

It was previously established that some bacteria break down the amino acid arginine via a biochemical pathway named the arginine deaminase (ADI) pathway. This study researchers show that this pathway upregulates genes associated with the virulence of S. pyogenes, such as those that produce the bacterial toxins.

In the skin, arginine from stratum corneum-derived filaggrin was an essen�al substrate for the ADI pathway of S. pyogenes, which explains why this

Research and Scien�fic New Developments In every issue of the journal, Terry Everi� our scien�fic educator, conveys a few items of scien�fic interest. In italics, are his thoughts on the subject ma�er of the research study.

species can rapidly produce, causing infec�on in a habitat in which it usually does not do well.

While this study indicated arginine from filaggrin breakdown, it would be great to know if this is the only source or does the S. pyogenes uptake arginine from products applied to the skin, given such ingredient is used as a free radical scavenger in several products.

Hirose, Y., Yamaguchi, M., Sumitomo, T., Nakata, M., Hanada, T., Okuzaki, D., Motooka, D., Mori, Y., Kawasaki, H., Coady, A., Uchiyama, S., Hiraoka, M., Zurich, R., Amagai, M., Nizet, V., & Kawabata, S. (2021). Streptococcus pyogenes upregulates arginine catabolism to exert its pathogenesis on the skin surface. Cell Reports, 34(13), 108924. DOI: 10.1016/ j.celrep.2021.108924 This research discovers a cri�cal element of understanding why this microorganism in low quan�ty on the skin can rapidly mul�ply to cause serious infec�ons. Hopefully, such knowledge could lead to new therapeu�c approaches to tackle diseases. APJ

GREEN TEA COMPOUND AIDS THE GUARDIAN OF THE GENOME Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), a significant component in green tea, has been found to protect p53 of cells.

We know that p53 has several wellknown func�ons, such as ac�va�ng DNA repair while hal�ng cell growth for effec�ve repair to occur. If DNA damage cannot be repaired, it ini�ates apoptosis, which stops the cell from muta�ons.

EGCG binds with the end of p53, which

stops the protein from degrading. In doing so, EGCG increases the power of p53, ac�ng in an an�-cancer func�on. A protein termed MDM2 acts on p53 to degrade, which EGCG stops.

This study showed that EGCG binds directly to tumour suppressor p53, inhibi�ng p53 degrada�on.

Zhao, J., Blayney, A., Liu, X., Gandy, L., Jin, W., Yan, L., Ha, J., Canning, A., Connelly, M., Yang, C., Liu, X., Xiao, Y., Cosgrove, M., Solmaz, S., Zhang, Y., Ban, D., Chen, J., Loh, S., & Wang, C. (2021).

EGCG binds intrinsically disordered Nterminal domain of p53 and disrupts p53-MDM2 interac�on. Nature Communica�ons, 12, 986. h�ps://doi.org/ 10.1038/s41467-021-21258-5 The p53 protein has a flexible end, known as the N-terminal domain, allowing it to perform different func�ons via interac�on with mul�ple molecules for differing outcomes for cellular health. If p53 does not successfully have DNA repair and does not affect apoptosis, then the cell mutates, frequently causing cancer to develop. Such a finding allows the more outstanding op�on for cancer cell suppression and from an easily obtained source. APJ

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS and trea�ng skin diseases. While away off yet, when this becomes commercially available, it will revolu�onise skin analysis.

The resolu�on is at a μm-level that offers a higher degree of accuracy when differen�a�ng between topographies of the skin surface. APJ

3D SKIN IMAGES VIA A PORTABLE DEVICE FOR SKIN ANALYSIS

repression of gene expression, or the switching-off of individual genes to help control responses to changing environments and s�muli. Researchers discovered two central Polycomb repressive complexes, PRC1 and PRC2, have autonomous yet overlapping func�ons in repressing Polycomb target

genes, which allow epidermal cell iden�ty and normal skin development.

It has previously been established that

A team in Singapore has developed a ba�ery-operated device that measures 7cm by 10cm, weighs only 100 grams, that produces high-resolu�on 3D images of human skin within 10 minutes. The machine presses a specially devised film of polylac�c acid onto the subject's skin to obtain an imprint of up to 5 by 5 cen�metres, then subjected to an electric charge, genera�ng a 3D image.

A complex network of precisely recorded skin surface morphology with ver�cal dimension informa�on is captured on the film, which is flexible to map features on uneven skin areas, such as the creases of an elbow and fingerprints.

Fu, X., Cheong, Y., Ahamed, A., Zhou, C., Robert, C., Krikstolaityte, V., Gordon, K., & Lisak, G. (2021). Diagnos�cs of skin features through 3D skin mapping based on electro-controlled deposi�on of conduc�ng polymers onto metal-sebum modified surfaces and their possible applica�ons in skin treatment. Analy�ca Chimica Acta, 1142, 84-98. DOI: 10.1016/j.aca.2020.10.056 Such a non-invasive, simple, and inexpensive device could be used to complement current methods of diagnosing

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Polycomb complexes are o�en overexpressed in epithelial cancers, including skin cancers.

POLYCOMB COMPLEXES ARE ESSENTIAL FOR SKIN DEVELOPMENT You may not have heard of polycomb complexes, but these complexes are vital in maintaining the gene-expression pa�erns during early skin development by regula�ng the structure of DNA and proteins in cells.

Found to play a cri�cal role in the

Cohen, I., Bar, C., Liu, H., Valdes, V., Zhao, D., Galbo, P., Silva, J., Koseki, H., Zheng, D., & Ezhkova, E. (2021). Polycomb complexes redundantly maintain epidermal stem cell iden�ty during development. Genes & Development, 35(5-6), 354-366.DOI: 10.1101/ gad.345363.120 I think the finding of this study in using such Polycomb inhibitors have implica�ons for the development of stem cell therapies to produce "skin on a dish" to use for transplanta�on techniques and in the treatment of skin cancers. If nothing else, it shows another aspect of the fantas�c skin

Research and Scien�fic New Developments In every issue of the journal, Terry Everi� our scien�fic educator, conveys a few items of scien�fic interest. In italics, are his thoughts on the subject ma�er of the research study.

biochemistry that we are unaware of that is so vital to the skin homeosta�c func�oning.

respec�vely, and facial elas�city increased 28.2% from baseline.

APJ

Wamsley, C., Kislevitz, M., Barillas, J., Basci, D., Kandagatla, V., Hitchcock, T., Akgul, Y., & Kenkel, J. (2021). A SingleCenter Trial to Evaluate the Efficacy and Tolerability of Four Microneedling Treatments on Fine Lines and Wrinkles of Facial and Neck Skin in Subjects With Fitzpatrick Skin Types I-IV: An Objec�ve Assessment Using Non-invasive Devices and 0.33-mm Microbiopsies. Aesthe�c Surgery Journal, online publish-ahead-ofprint, 1–16. DOI: 10.1093/asj/sjab052 While this study was with needle length not typically used in a non-medical se�ng, the results showing collagen type III and elas�n gene expression were sta�s�cally higher three months post-treatment could be generalised to aesthe�c needling, although perhaps not so evident.

The results illustrate the effects of microneedling treatments of which we know of affec�ng skin architecture. APJ

MEDICAL MICRONEEDLING AFFECTS COLLAGEN AND ELASTIN GENE EXPRESSION A small yet robust study of 32 subjects (93.75% female, 6.25% male) completed four monthly sessions of medical microneedling over face and neck with a one and three-month follow-up. They were aged between 44 and 65 years old with Fitzpatrick skin types I-IV. A local anaesthe�c of 20% benzocaine, 8% lidocaine and 4% tetracaine was applied to the treatment areas for 30 minutes, then washed with saline followed by isopropyl alcohol. Needle length was 1.0 and 2.5 mm, depending on pa�ent tolerability and the ease of achieving the clinical endpoint, being a confluent zone of pinpoint bleeding, Inves�gators used high-resolu�on ultrasonography, op�cal coherence tomography, transepidermal water loss and BTC-2000 as well as 0.33mm microbiopsies to assess the efficacy of microneedling on facial and neck fine lines and wrinkles.

At three months post-treatment, facial dermal and epidermal density increased an average of 101.86% and 19.28%,

Not surprisingly, collagen type III and elas�n gene expression were sta�s�cally higher post-treatment, yet total elas�n protein levels were unchanged.

This study adds to previous histologic analyses that objec�vely substan�ated the benefits of these treatments, showing increased epidermal thickness with welldeveloped rete ridges, increased expression of collagen types I to IV and VII and fibronec�n.

MICRONEEDLING FOR ANDROGENETIC ALOPECIA

Image: average needle length of all treatments from all pa�ents (range 0.75 – 2.50)

While most of us have done microneedling on clients for ages now, microneedling is becoming an increasingly popular treatment for androgene�c alopecia (AGA). The variance of needle length for effec�veness has always been in ques�on.

A small study has found a needle length

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS of 0.6 mm (in combina�on with minoxidil) was most effec�ve. Two groups of 30 subjects (mix of female and male) each underwent six treatments for 12 weeks, with a cartridge of 9, 33-gauge needles 0.2 mm diameter. A third group ac�ng as control had no micro-needling treatment.

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Group A used minoxidil 5% lo�on and biweekly micro-needling with a depth of 1.2 mm.

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Group B used minoxidil 5% lo�on and biweekly micro-needling with a depth of 0.6 mm.

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Group C only used minoxidil 5% as the control group.

A�er 12 weeks, all had increased hair growth from the baseline, with the two groups receiving micro-needling having more hair growth than the control group.

Of these two groups, group B treated with 0.6 mm needles had more significant hair growth and hair thickness.

It has been generally accepted (yet not by all) that needle depth greater than 1.0 mm is needed, which this study shows otherwise, with needle depth being the only variable.

Pre-treatment (A) and post-treatment (B) appearance in a pa�ent receiving six sessions of micro-needling with a depth of 0.6 mm p. 1244 Faghihi, G., Nabavinejad. S., Mokhtari, F., Naeini, F., & Iraji. F. (2021).

Microneedling in androgene�c alopecia; comparing two different depths of microneedles. Journal of Cosme�c Dermatology, 20(4), 1241-1247.doi.org/ 10.1111/jocd.13714 While this was undertaken with a prescribed drug, many OTC drugs and cosme�c ingredients have great promise in hair restora�on, so they easily could be incorporated into your hair restora�on services. APJ

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REGENERATING HAIR FOLLICLE STEM CELLS We know that stress can lead to hair loss and lack of pigmenta�on in the hair.

Cor�sol acts on a cluster of cells in the dermal papilla, preven�ng the expression of a molecule 'Gas6' that causes the ac�va�on of hair follicle stem cells.

When researchers ar�ficially 'feed' the Gas6 molecule, the follicle stem cells regenerated.

This discovery follows from previous work by the same group who found why hair may turn grey with stress via ac�va�on of the sympathe�c nervous system, which depletes melanocyte stem cells via nerve derived signals.

Researchers from Harvard University have iden�fied how this occurs in finding that the stress hormone cor�costerone causes hair follicle stem cells to stay in an extended res�ng phase without regenera�ng �ssue.

These findings suggest that the significant switch for hair follicle stem cell ac�vity is not from the dermal papilla yet is in the adrenal gland. It works by changing the threshold required for stem cell ac�va�on.

The stages of hair growth we are familiar with are determined by hair follicle stem cells. When the stem cells are ac�vated, hair grows then goes quiescent, and hairs stop the growth and shed more quickly.

Choi, S., Zhang, B., Ma, S., GonzalezCeleiro, M., Stein, D., Jin, X., Kim, S., Kang, Y., Besnard, A., Rezza,A., Grisan�, L., Buenrostro, J., Rendl, M., Nahrendorf, M., Sahay, A., & Hsu, Y. (2021). Cor�costerone inhibits GAS6 to govern hair follicle stem-cell quiescence. Nature, 592, 428–432.

DOI: 10.1038/s41586-021-03417-2

Under normal condi�ons, hair follicle regenera�on slows over �me - the res�ng phase becomes more prolonged, and hair loss is a sign of ageing.

Research and Scien�fic New Developments In every issue of the journal, Terry Everi� our scien�fic educator, conveys a few items of scien�fic interest. In italics, are his thoughts on the subject ma�er of the research study.

The study's results also have broader implica�ons for stem cell biology showing that �ssue biology of one part of the body is interconnected with the physiology of another part some distance away.

Although stress has does impact both melanocyte and hair follicle stem cells, the pathways are different. APJ

treatment with an 805 nm diode laser and an IPL device with a 640–1200 nm wavelength.

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Group 1: one IPL treatment and three diode laser treatments.

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Group 2: two IPL treatments and three diode laser treatments.

however, there are fundamental differences in how they are built and in the light they emit, making a vast difference. APJ

EYELASH TRANSPLANT SURGERY

DIODE LASER HAIR REDUCTION TREATMENTS AFTER IPL HAIR REDUCTION TREATMENTS

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Group 3: three IPL treatments and three diode laser treatments.

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Group 4: three diode laser treatments only.

The percentage of hair loss was most significant among the pa�ents treated with a diode laser only.

The authors posit that the ini�al treatment with the non-coherent light of the IPL weakened and thinned the hair, impeding the absorp�on of 805 nm wavelength by the melanin in the hair.

Thereby nega�vely impac�ng the effec�veness of the diode laser.

If, for some reason, you were thinking to combine IPL with diode laser for laser hair removal, then don't, as it reduces the efficacy of the treatment.

Forty-five females (21–23 years old; skin type II-III) underwent hair reduc�on

A�a-Mo�e, M., & Zaleska, I. (2021) The results of the diode laser hair reduc�on treatments a�er the IPL hair reduc�on treatments, Journal of Cosme�c and Laser Therapy, Published online: 09 Jun 2021.

DOI: 10.1080/14764172.2021.1936066 Lasers and IPL ac�on are similarly based on the selec�ve photo thermolysis principle.

The melanin acts as chromatophore;

Before you rush out for an eyelash transplant, think this through. Eyelashes have had a plethora of treatments over the decades -�nts, perms, growth serums extensions and now transplanta�on.

This involves hair taken from the scalp and inserted individually into the lash line, giving a permanent result that could last up to a life�me, although not immediately.

Such is surgery so that the usual surgical side effects can occur, not to men�on the cost of insurance.

The transplanted hairs frequently fall out with the crusts at 5 to 8 days a�er the procedure, con�nuing for approx. two weeks. New hair begins to grow in the fourth to the six-month window and will con�nue to grow. Such can be a problem.

Remember, these are scalp hairs that can produce extended growth and in various direc�ons. Cu�ng the hairs result in blunt ends that are not the natural look of eyelashes, so they will need constant curling to lessen the 'blun�ng effect', and the hairs will be much heavier than natural eyelash hairs. APJ

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WE ARE LAUNCHING A

MENTAL HEALTH & BUSINESS PROGRAM UNCERTAINTY BREEDS ANXIETY and during these turbulent �mes businesses must remain agile and flexible to change.

If you are a business owner in this industry, you are o�en required to carry a diverse range of responsibili�es to maintain business viability. In our industry the compounded stress is o�en leading to mental health issues contribu�ng to reduc�on in produc�vity and inability to visualise strategies for sustainability and implement a plan for future growth.

Our research has confirmed that almost 42% of businesses we surveyed stated that because of the challenges in coping with their stress, they preferred to decrease staff numbers and downsize their business.

While the Government is making available helplines, APAN believes we can provide a higher-level of support by taking an industry-specific focused approach in mental health and business skills development. As a result of on-going industry feedback, we are launching the MENTAL HEALTH AND BUSINESS PROGRAM. HOW THIS PROGRAM CAN BENEFIT YOU This is a clinically proven 12-unit program developed by a highly qualified HR and wellness expert who is designing the program to provide a customised approach in line with our specific industry needs.

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WHAT IS INVOLVED? The MENTAL HEALTH AND BUSINESS PROGRAM will provide you with an easy to implement self-paced, self-directed learning plan that will be supported by mental health and leadership development tools. It will help to strengthen your resilience and enhance your capacity to view the future with greater op�mism. You will gain the skills to iden�fy op�ons and viable possibili�es for sustainability and on-going growth.

Another benefit of this program is that it will help enhance the way you connect with others and improve rela�onships, both in the workplace and beyond, This will allow you to improve produc�vity and enhance individual and team collabora�on.

The program is skilfully designed with several tools to support your progress. You will have access to ac�vity guides, worksheets, videos and feedback forms with a call to ac�on. To monitor your progress, you will be encouraged to appoint an “accountability buddy” or you can request a consulta�on with a coach to guide you through the process.

The skills you will learn will help you prevent mental health issues, master stress, develop self-leadership and accountability, master courageous conversa�ons and more.

Life will con�nue to have its disrup�ons, however focused help is now available, and incredible opportuni�es are s�ll within your reach if you have the right mindset. APAN is con�nuing to lead the way toward quality, results-driven solu�ons. We an�cipate that the first three units will be available by August/September. Each unit will have a specific focus in skills development to get you started. Collec�vely the program will be transforma�onal for business owners and their team. You will be able to incrementally self-pace yourself through the program as each unit will provide you with incredible content and great value.

If you are interested in accessing the MENTAL HEALTH AND BUSINESS PROGRAM, please complete the EXPRESSION OF INTEREST FORM below so that you can be no�fied as soon as it is released. APJ If you require further informa�on, please phone APAN 07 5593 0360.

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ARE YOUR DOCUMENTS LEGALLY COMPLIANT AND UP-TO-DATE? With the support of their lawyers APAN has developed 48 REGULATORY AND BEST PRACTICE DOCUMENTS to help you streamline your business’s backend, ensure your regulatory compliance and achieve a level of excellence and order in how you run your business.

LEGALLY COMPLIANT INFORM CONSENT FORMS FOR • IPL/Laser • Skin Needling • Cosme�c Ta�ooing • Photographing your clients • And much more …

ARE YOUR POLICIES LEGALLY WRITEN AND UP-TO-DATE? • Privacy Policy • Cancella�on Policy • Refund Policy

STAFFING AGREEMENTS REGULATIONS BUSINESS DEVELOPMENTS

ESTABLISHING COMPLIANCE WILL ALLOW YOU TO INTRODUCE A LEVEL OF CALM, ORDER AND GREATER PEACE OF MIND. APJ 108

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