APJ Vol 52 2022

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD.

RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND

26-27 WHY YOU SHOULD CONSIDER OFFERING TREATMENTS FOR HAIRLOSS 38-39 IMMUNE RESPONSE & THE SCIENCE OF ESSENTIAL OILS 40-41 PRINCIPLES OF SAFE AND EFFECTIVE PAIRING OF ACTIVE INGREDIENTS 46-47 THE POWER OF STEM CELL RELEASED MOLECULES 48-49 MONKEYPOX (MPX) THE NEW VIRAL INFECTION

50-52 HYPERPIGMENTATION: MINIMISING THE RISKS WITH LASER RESURFACING AND PHENOL PEELS 78-81 THE ROLE OF HELIOBACTERIA PYLORI INFECTION AND ITS CONTRIBUTION TO ROSACEA 82-84 DANDILION FLOWERS & ROOTS FOR BETTER SKIN AND HEALTH 94-97 PRODUCT INNOVATIONS 102-106 SCIENTIFIC NEWS

22 UNDERGRADUATE CERTIFICATE IN DERMAL INTERVENTIONS 24-25 HAVE YOU ACCESSED YOUR COPY OF THE COVID SKIN MANIFESTATION AND SOLUTIONS KIT? 70-72 THE HORMONE THAT ORCHESTRATES OUR STRESS RESPONSE

20

REGULATIONS, STANDARDS AND EDUCATION BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT

10-11 THE EXPLORATION OF JOY 20-21 BECOMING UNSTOPPABLE 34-35 ROCCOCO BOTANICALS WINNER OF THE COSMETIC & TOILETRIES ALLE AWARD 74-75 TYPES OF CONTENT YOU SHOULD POST TO INCREASE CONVERSION

76-78 TRAINING AND MENTORING THE NEXT GENERATION 86-87 THE SIGNIFICANCE OF EXTENDED HEALING TIME WITH COSMETIC TATTOO PROCEDURES 85 EMPLOYEE OWNERSHIP IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY 90-93 TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS

Editor

Dr Giulia D’Anna (07) 5593 0360 editor@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com

Typesetting & Graphics Tahlia Schwark TEV Group Pty Ltd

Advertising & Marketing

Tina Viney

Phone: (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com Fax: (07) 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423

Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre QLD 4218 Australia

Publisher

TEV Group Pty Ltd

Design & Production Artwork and Editorial TEV Group Pty Ltd Unit 7D 76-84 Robina Town Centre Drive, Robina QLD 4226 Australia Phone: (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com Mobile: 0412 177 423

Printed For

Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network

ACN: 136 987 169 ABN: 25 136 987 169

Accounts Payable

Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network

PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre QLD 4218

Journal Advisory Board

Terry Everitt - Education Features Wendy Neely - PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose - Scientific Content

National Advisory Council

John Fergusson Terry Everitt Chris Testa Gill Fish Carole Jackson Julia Grinberg

ISSN: 1836-9812 Pint Post Approved [100000257] Circulation 6900

Front Cover

#1 AND WHY 0407 784 850 hello@number1andwhy.com

For further information see pages 12-15

The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

Dr Giulia D’Anna

EDITOR’S LETTER

Over the past few months, I have been busy, and I have been loving it. I hope that you are all having a successful and a more stable year. It is such a contrast to a year ago.

I have been focusing on working with skin practitioners in education, and of course in my own practice with patients. It brings me great joy to work with my patients and lead the skin and health journey that they embark on.

It has been lovely to reconnect with other professionals at various conferences this year. For me, the thing I missed the most during the thick of the pandemic was that face-to-face human contact and connection - I am sure we all did. I found myself this year jumping-at-thebit to attend every meeting, extend my knowledge and just be social with likeminded individuals.

One of the great programs that APAN has just released is the COVID-19 Skin Manifestations and Solutions program. If you have not accessed this document, it’s

a must. It is incredible just how many skin manifestations are presenting as a result of the virus, and it is so important to keep abreast in understanding these findings. A client may have always had healthy skin, and suddenly show unexplained redness or reactions that cannot be explained.

The APAN program will really take you through the differential diagnoses that you should be aware of and guide you in treating your clients, or when necessary, referring them on. In this program there is also so much evidence-based information on treatment options and recommendations as well. This is truly a great gift to all APAN members. I cannot think of any other organisation that is so thoughtful and geared towards “lifting-up” members to educate them, prepare, support, and protect them in the way that APAN does.

As we are now moving into the last part of the year, I am sure that you are all ready and excited to be heading into the party season. No doubt we will find that our patients and clients are celebrating more this year than even pre-pandemic times. Having been through a few years where celebrating was curtailed or cancelled completely, we now value even more, being with our friends and family, and we definitely want to be out and about now that we can. I have noticed in my clinic that patients are more and more gravitating to low downtime procedures that give the skin an immediate appearance of health and glow. It is such a great time to be also following through with your skincare recommendations to support your professional treatments. This is the busiest time of the year for our industry so may it a prosperous one.

I wish you all a wonderful few weeks as we come to the end of 2022. Stay healthy, energised and blessed. The best is yet to come!

Giulia

editor@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com

Terry Everitt aestheticeducators@gmail.com

Professor Terry Everitt is highly regarded for his extensive knowledge in evidencebased science. He is responsible for the Scientific News segment within APJ as well as his regular well-researched articles on all things aesthetics.

Gay Wardle

gay@gaywardle.com.au

Gay Wardle is a qualified dermal clinician and a passionately trainer and educatior in skin analysis, consultation and advanced skin treatments. Her articles comprehensively cover these subjects.

APJ contributers

Katherine McCann k_mccann@me.com

Katherine McCann is a highly experienced cosmetic tattoo practitioner and trainer. She regularly contributes to thought-provoking cosmetic tattoo articles in APJ.

Jacine GreenwoodDrummond jacine@roccoco.com.au

Jacine Greenwood-Drummond holds qualifications in nursing, cosmetic chemistry and is an internationally recognised educator on cosmetic ingredients. Jacine contributes articles on ingredient science.

Dr Tiina Meder tiina.orasmae@mederbeauty.com

Dr Meder is a dermatologist based in the UK. She is renowned globally as an educator in aesthetic dermatology and a regulary conference speaker. Dr Meder contributes to APJ on dermatology topics.

Deb Farnworth-Wood deb@ultimateskinandbody.com.au

Deb Farnworth-Wood is our business expert responsible for APJ’s Business Wisdom column. Deb is a business development experts with amazing achievements as a seriel entrepreneur.

Trish Hammond trish@thepinkroom.com.au

Trish Hammond is an award-winning blog and social media expert and a leader in her field within the aesthetics industry and beyond. She regularly presents educational articles on Social Media.

Fiona Tuck

fiona@fionatuck.com

Fiona Tuck is a highly respected skincare and nutritional expert and a regular speaker and educator on the skin, gut and the role of nutrition in optimising skin health. She contributes to APJ through her column Nutrition for Better Skin and Health.

Tina Viney APAN Chief Executive Officer

Dear colleagues and friends,

As we approach the end of the year this is a good time to step back and evaluate what has transpired, how we handled challenges, measured our performance, and identify our achievements, as well as areas that need improvement. In doing this, it is important that you measure yourself against your own goals, and not what others are doing. Learning to assess and honestly measuring our progress applies to everyone –individuals as well as organisations.

OUTWARDLY FOCUSED

As in industry standards body/association we are also required to be accountable and review how well we have fulfilled our obligations in supporting and protecting the industry sector that we represent, which is skin and age-management professionals.

First and foremost, our activities are benchmarked against how aligned they are to our values and how well they served the good of the industry.

How do we determine that?

As we interact daily and engage with our members, we take note and record your needs and challenges. As a recurring picture starts to emerge, we evaluate and define the areas of consistent concerns. From this assessment we determine a more formal approach and craft programs that will provide you with high quality education and programs that will help you to gain the support and solutions that you need.

Here are some of the ways we met your needs this year:

• Conference format: This year as we were able to congregate once again, our initial plan was to resume our face-to-face conference, as the general consensus was that people were very keen to attend a live event. Our research however, identified that many, especially those who were located in regional areas, insisted that they were keen for us to provide them with the online conference event option as this suited them better. Additionally, at least 28% of delegates who had previously attended in person event, were still reluctant to congregate for fear of potential viral transmission. Even though this was a much more costly exercise, we decided to go with the industry feedback. We therefore provided

you with both with the online option, as well as in-person conference. Had we only conducted the face-to-face event, over 380 delegates would have missed out. Both online delegates and those who attended in person were able to access a comprehensive conference program of 45 segments.

• A focus on emerging studies: The focus of this year’s conference was to include topics based on new emerging studies. These included technologies, skincare ingredients, techniques, and procedures, as well as updates on studies relating to new skin disorders and other health considerations due to COVID. Our conference was the only event this year to provide the very latest data with regards to skin manifestations as well as emerging studies that identify how the virus is contributing to inflammation and dysbiosis of the gut and the skin. Therefore, the topics of both gut microbiome and the microbiome of the skin and skincare formulations were also covered in detail. Dysbiosis occurs when microbes and their harmonious communities are knocked off balance, making it easier for less friendly bugs to take over and create havoc, contributing to an environment that is more easily prone to disease and infections. Dysbiosis is now recognised as an ever-growing modern-day problem. As skin practitioners it is important that we gain accurate information that is scientifically supported.

• 2022 Most common complaints: Members also reach out to us requesting support through guidelines to help them more accurately understanding recurring skin manifestations and other symptoms they were experiencing this year.

In summary there were three problematic areas of concern this year.

- Unexplained skin irruptions following treatments

- Frequent staff absentees

- Frequent client cancellations

In investigating these issues further, we approached several academics, seeking the latest studies and what answers they could provide us with. Additional to skin manifestations, fatigue and brain fog were often directly aliened to staff absentees as well as client cancelations. Businesses needed further clarity and recommendations.

For three months we conducted comprehensive research with academic experts, resulting in the development of a 68-page standards document which is now available to all financial members for free and at a fee for non-members. Please review full details on this initiative in this journal. COVID RELATED SKIN MANIFESTATIONS AND SOLUTIONS, provides up-to-dated information on causes and potential solutions.

• Alliance with Australasian Society of Cosmetic Dermatology (ASCD): As skin disorders are becoming more prevalent APAN has established a formal alliance with ASCD. This will allow us to access research updates published in the ASCD Journals as well as updates on their educational programs and events. They are also happy to circulate our events to their members. When it comes to the skin, cosmetic dermatologists are required to undertake four years fulltime tertiary studies to graduate as dermatology specialists. They are the experts in understanding skin disorders, both mild and chronic. We therefore believe having access to their information will be invaluable also for our members.

• The move toward wellness modalities: In line with current consumer studies, there is now a growing interest for support with overall wellbeing, including stress management, dietary advice, weight management and simple strategies to help improve sleep – consumers want more than just skincare advice. In line with these trends in 2022 we have increased contributing articles on nutrition and wellness, both through APJ Journal as well as through our newsletter, as members need to gain a greater knowledge on these areas to best support their clients.

• Are you recognised for your formal credentials? While membership to APAN will provide you with a Certificate and a Code of Ethics that you will need to abide by, as well as access to resource documents and support in so many areas including HR, Regulatory and Best-Practice standards, membership does not review or validate credentials. This is achieved through ARAP® and CTARP registration.

This is a separate registration program that requires that you submit your formal qualifications for review and assessment. If you meet the merit criteria you can gain recognition as an APAN Registered Practitioner (ARAP™), or if you are a cosmetic tattooists you can apply for CTARP Registration.

These registrations will allow you to provide evidence to your client that your qualifications have been accessed and validated by an independent industry body.

To access further information for ARAP visit https:/apanetwork.com/arap, https://apanetwork com/ctarp

COMMITMENT TO YOUR PROTECTION AND RECOGNITION

The push for tighter regulations for our industry continues, however, when it comes to health, infection control, or radiation health issues (IPL, Laser, LED) the Australian regulatory process is governed by a complex structure of state departments,and achieving consensus across all platforms is a very challenging exercise.

In the meantime, the government has encouraged us to establish our own guidelines, position statement and self-regulation guidelines. We have always been committed to these processes and will continue to do so and to develop best-practice guidelines that are as much as possible supported by studies.

APAN MEMBERSHIP - PROFESSIONALISM AND INTEGRITY

However, the power of these documents will depend on industry support and their willingness to implement them, this is why your membership to APAN is important. It helps us to continue to fight and support you through government representation, as well as in the development of best practice standards that are as much as possible evidence based.

Membership to APAN is also an important position for you and your business. Complying with APAN’s Code of Ethics and standards will provide a level of assurance to your clients that you and your business stand for ethics and integrity, and that you are committed to servicing them in line with industry best practice and without compromising what is the very best for them. Integrity is choosing courage over comfort; choosing what is right over what is fast, or easy; and choosing to practice our values rather than simply professing them.

Coming to the end of the year, our team joins me to wish you every success in your professional and business endeavours. Merry Christmas, and may 2023 bring you the best of health and the joy in achieving your goals and dreams. As you plan for 2023 think “possible”.

Kind regards, Tina Viney

Integrity is choosing courage over comfort; choosing what is right over what is fast, or easy; and choosing to practice our values rather than simply professing them.

Brene Brown

THE EXPLORATION OF JOY

TINA VINEY

How can we meet the ordinary and profound challenges that surround us, and live with joy in a deeply hurting world? To explore this topic the GLOBAL JOY SUMMIT was launched on November 13-16 profiling 30 inspirational speakers and artists including Archbishop Desmond Tutu and the Dalai Lama who presented inspiring perspectives. Feeling the pain of the world and recognising how many are suffering with isolation and despair this summit presented poignant, practical and often humorous teachings on how to live with more Joy, even during deeply troubled times.

Joy is divine. While feelings such as happiness usually come from external sources and are temporary, joy comes from within and is always abiding. It is an innate part of who we are and how we express ourselves. Just watch how babies delight in the simplest things - their emotions are raw and true. It is difficult to feign joy.

What kindles the joy within is unique to you. It could be related to finding a purpose, a calling, or fulfilling a mission. It could be the feeling of being surrounded by family or good friends. Whatever it is that rejuvenates your spirit, do more of that! The reward of living a more fulfilled life is worth the effort that it sometimes takes.

For me, nothing gives me greater joy than serving my professional community and seeking ways to make our industry better, and the individuals within it safer and helping our members gain fulfilment from achieving their goals. On a more personal level I gain great joy in watching the flowers in my garden grow. Each morning, I take a deep breath and baste in the beauty of my gardenias and petunias, watching them dance together in the breeze while they release their delicate aroma.

So, why is joy so important to our wellbeing?

The path to joy is ultimately a return to wholeness - a rediscovery of who you are and what makes you happy. It involves getting to know, and move beyond, your fears and insecurities, paving the way toward more light-heartedness and laughter. Over time, life starts to unfold with ease and challenges are met with good energy and creative solutions.

A PATHWAY TO JOY

If you find yourself doubting that this could ever be you, know that you can put practices in place to help. The human brain has a tendency to focus on the negative as you take in information; this is known as negativity bias. There may be times where you need to intentionally focus on ways to produce more positive experiences in order to diffuse a bit of that negativity.

The practice of cultivating joy is just that, a practice. A little each day goes a long way and with time you will become adept at discovering what makes you tick and trusting your feelings.

The following five principles are helpful ways to start learning how to move beyond your beliefs laced with limitations and fears and begin to start glimpsing the possibilities of experiencing more joy.

1. Find ways to be of service

It feels great to help someone out in need or support a cause that has meaning for you. When performing an act of altruism, you get out of your head and into your heart. Acts of service remind you that life that is bigger than yourself and that there is more going on than what you see and experience on a daily basis. In being able to share this gift, you build a greater sense of connection and belonging, something you can relate to as a basic need. Joy is often a side effect of what can happen when you are in the service of something greater than yourself.

2. Practice gratitude

Humans are thinking machines. But consider that almost all your thoughts are the same thoughts you had yesterday! If you realise you need to make changes, you need to place some pattern interrupts in place. This is where practicing gratitude can be of great value.

When you have the same thoughts, you are likely to make the same decisions and take the same actions; thus, the cycle continues each day. What you think is what you create and where thoughts go energy flows. Your thoughts are powerful, and when consciously directed in a more positive direction, a new thought pattern is created. Practicing gratitude does this by shifting perspective and improving mood, creating space for more joy to start shining through.

Try writing or thinking about one to three things you are grateful for each morning and make it something different every day. This encourages you to start actively looking for things, people, and situations you are grateful for, which, in turn, starts to create desirous new thought patterns.

3. Seek after truth

Joy comes from a place of seeking truth and honouring it. Establish your truth based on moral and ethical values and allow them to define you and what you stand for. It takes courage to be the person that you are, especially when there may be pressure

to go with a cultural trend that is not aligned with virtue and your values. Stand your ground, be true to your convictions and you will come out the other side feeling stronger and able to enjoy life with less struggle.

4. Who Is in your front row?

You are constantly influenced by family, friends, community, social media, etc, but especially, you are influenced by those closest to you - your front row. Think about the people with whom you spend the most time – do they inspire you, provide you with motivation to achieve your goals, challenge you to make the changes you need to succeed?

Surround yourself and connect with thought leaders that challenge you to be the best person you can be and to reach your full potential. And don’t forget to find people who make you laugh. If joy had a sound, it would probably be laughter!

5. Stop comparing yourself and practice self-compassion

Find freedom in letting go of comparison and judgment upon yourself and others, as this is counterproductive to your mental health and in supporting you to achieve your goals and live a fulfilled life. Measure your achievements against your own objectives - have you moved forward towards your goals? Measure and adjust your own progress and celebrate it.

Stay in your path and focus and staying true to your purpose and achieving your vision and goals. Practice self-compassion, this will help to soften and allow space for different perspectives and give you the room to enjoy your own journey in pursuing your dreams and goals.

Lasting change doesn’t happen overnight. Consider that in each moment you have choices, and you can start by choosing to cultivate more joy in your life. Imagine living a life free of limitations and experiencing all that life has in store for you with a renewed sense of freedom and of course, joy. Be patient and flexible with yourself, but most importantly - be brave!

TRANSFORMING YOUR BUSINESS through Innovative Bespoke Training With #1 And Why

In our constantly changing and disruptive world opportunities still exist. However, the astute business owner must be both innovative as well as pragmatic. In order to advance, they need to recognise how the consumer mindset has changed. Identifying these changes will require that they update their communication style if they are to move forward in a sustainable way.

Change can be daunting, and many business owners are reluctant to make the necessary changes. This is also true of business coachers who are often stuck in the past, rehashing strategies that no longer work, but this does not negate the fact that now more than ever, the wisdom of coaching and mentoring has never been more important. As with every profession, staying current is essential in order to provide valuable and tangible benefit to your clients and consumers.

When it comes to transformational business growth, one couple is making waves through their style and business training programs. Their incredible content and communication style ensures that the principles they deliver are both memorable, impactful and achieve the positive change that is essential to their clients.

JARROD ABBOTT and MELINDA TIZZONE are the cofounders of #1 and Why (Number One and Why). They are a new breed of trainers and business development experts who specialise in helping businesses improve their productivity and achieve their business, professional and personal goals.

BESPOKE TRAINING

While Jarrod and Melinda specialise in sales, service and communication and have incredible knowledge, expertise and tools at their disposal, their training does not follow a predetermined formula. They review the needs of each client and develop a bespoke training program that is tailored to the specific areas of development that the client is looking for.

They work with individuals, start-ups, small business, large corporations, and multi-nationals across multiple industries. And

With an incredible reputation for delivering results, their success is based on understanding each business’s number one priority and creating interactive training programs that deliver proven outcomes. Through their combined expertise and experience, they bring both exceptional knowledge and resources to provide training in team building, behavioural profiling, communication skills, leadership, customer service, train the trainer, mentoring, brand strategy and sales and strategic execution.

TRAINING STYLE

While performance improvement training can be considered somewhat boring, Jarrod’s and Melinda’s training style is anything but conventional. They ignite passion for improvement by delivering their training in a fun and engaging way. They create an environment that brings learning through laughter and love getting feedback that participants didn’t even realise the skills they were taking in at the time.

Even though their delivery style may focus on being joyful and entertaining, the tools and techniques they use and share with their clients are tried, tested and proven methods of working. When these tools and techniques are implemented in a structured process, they deliver exceptional results every time.

LIGHT BULB MOMENTS

While knowledge may impact the brain, the realisation of the power of an idea or concept can ignite the heart. This is known as the “light bulb moment” – it immediately made sense to the pair that the light bulb had to be part of their brand identity.

“We love what we do and are inspired by seeing people have those light bulb moments and knowing that we have helped make that happen,” Jarrod said.

work on every level of the business requirement, from new team members to the CEO.

Having a large training team inhouse across the SILK and Australian Skin clinics network it is rare for us to look externally for training, but we were looking for something new and dynamic post-COVID. It only took a minute to realise that Number 1 and Why was going to tick all the boxes. They are industry-based, so they could speak our team’s language. I instantly knew Jarrod was going to grab the team’s attention and keep it! I knew that just putting another speaker, like they get from us every day in front of them, wasn’t going to inspire or give the results we needed from this training. Jarrod’s, sense of humour, knowledge and of course fabulous dress sense were all things I knew our teams would gravitate to and in turn, have them listen, laugh and learn. Survey results from the team post rollout were amazing and the increase we saw not only in conversions, but in culture were phenomenal! I couldn’t recommend Number 1 And Why highly enough to any business.

Both Jarrod and Melinda recognise that everyone has a different way of learning and processing information, and their training takes this into consideration. Through their carefully crafted and intentional communication style they ensure that everyone who walks away from their sessions will gain the confidence that they will succeed.

MEET THE BRAINS BEHIND THE BRAND

Jarrod Abbott, together with Melinda Tizzone are the co-founders of #1 And Why. Their vision is to support businesses in the areas of sales, service and communication. While they are both very different, together they exude a synergistic energy that is both intelligent and joyous. Let us introduce you to both:

Jarrod Abbott

Meeting Jarrod is an experience you will never forget. He is a strikingly colourful dresser, but at the same time there is a real intelligent, kind and soulful energy about him. While he believes that people learn better when the training is enjoyable and engages them, he nevertheless, takes his commitment to delivering quality training content and achieving outcomes very seriously.

Jarrod studied performing arts from an early age which made him a natural trainer, presenter and keynote speaker. He is known for his passion and endless enthusiasm, which makes his presentations entertaining, fun and memorable. He believes that training should be innovative, dynamic, inspiring and drive success.

Jarrod has over two decades of experience, working with clients so they feel comfortable and confident, be it one-on-one coaching, through to large team training events. He has been a regular presenter at trade shows and conventions in Australia, the UK and Europe with a queue of people waiting after every presentation to see how he could support them in their business.

His extensive career, that has taken him all over the world working in various sectors such as Fitness and Wellbeing, the Premium Spa and Medi Spa, Hair Care, Product Houses, Real Estate, Colleges, Creative Agencies and more. It is a true testament to his training and in particular the results his clients see that he still works with clients from the start of his training career.

Jarrod lives by the mantra that “Success is what happens when preparation meets opportunity”.

Melinda Tizzone

On meeting Melinda from the outset, she exudes a warm and confident self-assurance. She is an excellent communicator with an honest and joyful disposition that immediately puts you at ease. You are made to feel that you are in the presence of someone who has incredible knowledge that can make you achieve anything.

Melinda’s first passion was also in the performing arts, which is evident in the delivery of her training and facilitation. She went on to do a Bachelor of Education and it was during this time she worked at retail giant Coles Myer, facilitating their sales training. This then led to an opportunity with international cosmetic house, Elizabeth Arden where she was the State Training and Sales Manager. This was the start of her two-decade love affair with the cosmetic industry.

Melinda has mentored brands for over 14 years, supporting both start-ups and existing brands. She has successfully helped in bringing products and services to the end consumer. This has included product formulation, compliance, brand identity, packaging, marketing and essentially creating a smooth process from concept to market.

Melinda’s career spans two decades and her reputation is one of being professional, knowledgeable, passionate, dynamic and of course delivering results for each and every client. Based

Megan Waters – General Manager Operations –SILK Laser Clinics & Australian Skin Clinics

on the success she has created, she has also worked in retail, manufacturing, hospitality and creative industries.

Melinda is driven by her passion for helping others realise their true potential and the growth and success they achieve following this.

Recently, we spoke to both Jarrod and Melinda. Here are some highlights from our interview:

APJ1: Jarrod, from your experience what are the key areas that contribute to staff underperformance that businesses are struggling with and how are your programs helping them to turn things around?

One of the key areas we most often get asked to assist with is sales, either staff are fearful of “selling” or lack confidence in how to have the conversation. The way we address this objection in our training is to remove the fear by explaining that people that come into the business have priorities they want addressed, we just need to listen. It is also important for team members to understand that you have a greater chance of letting patients/clients down by not prescribing to them. We then continue the journey by sharing Behavioural Profiling and giving participants the ability to better understand themselves, their colleagues and of course their consumer. We then create tailored tools, that help in educating clients, asking better questions and how to prescribe, based on each individual patient/ client priorities.

APJ 2: Jarrod, how is your training style different and to what do you attribute your success in training outcomes?

We are incredibly passionate about understanding a business before we even set foot in a training room. We like to speak the same language as them. Be it a spa, clinic, cosmetic house, medical supply or device company, we take the time to know and understand their products, services, CRM systems and existing tools and resources that are currently used. We then look at how we can take these, adapt them and further elevate how that business operates.

By creating bespoke modules, we also ensure that any new tools or adapted processes we share on training days are readily available in each client’s business, immediately post training for implementation. We also work with our clients to set realistic expectations - we do this by breaking the team down by behavioural type, and then explain

which styles will be the fastest to adopt the new processes and those that will need more support. We make ourselves available to our clients to support them, especially when we are changing processes.

We are incredibly proud that over 78% of our business is through referral and that our clients stay with us long-term. We know that these relationships are based on the outcomes we help deliver in their business. It is a privilege and a pleasure to work with industry leaders and we are grateful for the level of mutual respect and trust in driving the success of clients and their teams.

APJ3: Melinda, tell us a little about your Behavioural Profiling program and how is this training helping staff to achieve better business communication and improve sales?

Understanding how behavioural profiling works is truly, life changing.

Behavioural Profiling allows you to comprehend the fundamentals of communication. By exploring your own behavioural style and identifying key drivers in how you take in information is vital to the process, being able to then identify the behavioural styles of your colleagues and clients helps you to communicate more effectively, essentially helping to build and maintain successful professional relationships.

APJ4: How has your industry experience and teaching qualifications enabled you to create positive changes in the people you train?

My education degree and experience in the classroom has been advantageous in the sense that it has taught me to plan and foster environments that are conducive to learning. Being able to identify and cater to all learning styles and ensure participants achieve educational outcomes is incredibly important to their overall success. This has always been my motivation as a trainer. APJ

You can find out more about #1 And Why at www.number1andwhy.com including client testimonials.

To find out how Jarrod and Melinda can help you and your business, contact them now:

Jarrod 0407 784 850 jarrod@number1andwhy.com Melinda 0424 376 721 melinda@number1andwhy.com

MASQUE Amplify the Effects of Light Therapy

LED (light-emitting diode) light therapy is a non-invasive treatment that enters the skin’s layers, stimulating it to help resolve skin concerns. Red light, typically promoted in LED skin treatments, acts on the fibroblasts which produce ATP (energy), collagen, and elastin. When light therapy is used in conjunction with products containing advanced technologies, it can work synergistically to support fibroblast cells and boost levels of ATP, collagen, and elastin – amplifying treatment results.

What is it?

An innovative gel masque that amplifies the benefits of red-light therapy and IPL –supporting skin’s energy production and repair processes to smooth skin texture, lines and wrinkles faster than light therapy alone.

Who is it for?

All skin conditions receiving red light therapy treatments. It can also be used in lieu of ultrasound gel for Intense-Pulsed Light (IPL) treatments to decrease client discomfort and improve results.

KEY INGREDIENTS

Light Energy Masque is a gel masque containing actives that work to improve the skin including:

• Lindera Root Extract, rich in oligoalpha-glucans and with strong antioxidant properties, complements the benefits of light therapy when used in combination with LED therapy. The skin benefits include an increase in complexion radiance, smoothness and resilience.

• Olive Leaf Extract, rich in phospholipids, helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles as it improves the look of smoothness and firmness.

• A blend of Brown Algae Extract, Magnesium Aspartate helps improve the appearance of skin texture and smoothness. It also has antioxidant properties to help correct visible damage.

• Palmitoyl L-D-L Peptide is a potent peptide that helps diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

• Hibiscus Fruit Extract, extracted from an Australian Wild Rosella, provides immediate and long-term moisturising effects. It also helps improve the skin barrier by reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL).

• Biosaccharide Gum-1, a high molecular weight polysaccharide, soothes and calms the skin.

IN VITRO TESTING

A study was conducted using red light therapy and a combination of three ingredients (combo 3) - Lindera Root Extract, Olive Leaf Extract and Brown Algae Extract. The study showed that when these elements are combined with red LED therapy, they boost treatment results, demonstrating a significant improvement in ATP, collagen, and elastin production.

The experimental plan was as follows:

• The fibroblasts were extracted from the skin and put on specific lab plates to be used in this test.

• The product containing the three actives (combo 3) was applied on certain test subjects.

• The test subjects were treated with a red LED device, with and without actives for a period between 15-30 minutes.

• ATP, collagen and elastin production was assessed.

Results:

After treatment, the test showed significantly more production of ATP, collagen and elastin when LED was used with combo 3 versus LED alone.

Comparison photos:

A total of 15 subjects received a chemical peel (UltraBright Peel - Lactic acid 30% - three layers) followed by 20 minutes under a red-light LED device. On one side of the face, Light Energy Masque was applied prior to the LED treatment. On the other side of the face, no product was applied. Individual results may vary.

To learn more or become a stockist go to dermalogica.com.au/become-a-stockist 1800 659 118

light energy masque amplify the effects of light therapy

The side where no Light Energy Masque was applied had more redness.

The side with Light Energy Masque had less redness. To learn more or become a stockist go to dermalogica.com.au/become-a-stockist

REVIEWING THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN Fraxel And Clear + Brillant?

A pioneer from the start, Solta Medical has helped define the fast-emerging aesthetics industry with award-winning medical devices, such as the well-known Fraxel® brand of skin health treatments. Since introducing Fraxel in 2004, Solta Medical has refined fractionated skin resurfacing technology into Clear + Brilliant® - a skin health treatment with even less downtime, and greater treatment comfort.

While Fraxel is a corrective treatment, Clear + Brilliant enables people who prefer a proactive, preventative approach to skin health to have an affordable and gentle prejuvenation treatment. Utilising fractional laser technology, Clear + Brilliant is designed for all skin types. The minimal downtime is designed to suit people with busy, active lifestyles.

TWO TREATMENT OPTIONS

Clear + Brilliant includes two treatment options – Original and Perméa – to target common skin concerns.

The Original treatment in particular is designed for clients who prefer to take a preventative approach to skin health. The Original treatment stimulates collagen production, helping to minimise the appearance of pores, and smooth rough and uneven skin.

The Perméa treatment is a great option for clients who want to get more out of their topical antioxidant serums – studies show that the Perméa treatment increases the skin’s permeability by up to 17 times. Importantly, this is achieved without impairing the skin’s barrier function.

Clear + Brilliant has a strong history of clinical ef¬ficacy, patient comfort and low complication pro¬file with over 20 published clinical studies and 2.5 million treatments delivered globally.

ABOUT SOLTA MEDICAL

The foundation of our success is ultimately in delivering skin health outcomes to patients. That is why it is important that our devices are backed by clinical evidence, regular clinical training, responsive technical service, comprehensive marketing support, bespoke account management, and fair pricing.

Collectively our devices have delivered over 6.3 million treatments around the world, are backed by more than 120 clinical papers, and have even won awards and enjoyed the spotlight on the red carpet.

We provide our service across Australia, including in-person practical clinical training and technical services. Our portfolio of aesthetic medical devices includes the pioneering Fraxel, one-of-a-kind Thermage, and red-carpet favourite Clear + Brilliant. APJ

For more information visit clearandbrilliant.com.au Or Follow us on Facebook and Instagram @clearandbrilliantau

Distributed in Australia by Bausch & Lomb ABN 88 000 222 408. Level 2, 12 Help Street, Chatswood, NSW 2067, Australia. 1800 251 150. CLB.0062.AU.22

BECOMING UNSTOPPABLE

Reviewing the proven strategies for ongoing victory over challenges

Tina Viney

Anyone in business today who has managed to survive during recent times of challenge and change deserves to be congratulated.

Recent reports confirm that over 30 per cent of small businesses within our industry have closed, with a small percentage moving to operate from their home as their business base. We can also confirm from our interaction with the industry that for safety reasons, some have even chosen to move out of the personal services industry and pursue another career path.

However, one thing we have established, if you are still in this industry – you are the SURVIVOR. So, my intention here is to explore our focus on how to continue the path that will secure your future towards victorious living and becoming unstoppable.

Let’s be real, business is not for the faint-hearted. Staying on track will not happen without taking a closer look at what can derail our strength, and then intentionally develop a winning mindset and habits.

Neuroscience tells us that what we focus on will ultimately contribute to the development of neurons that will shape our brain to gravitate towards those thoughts and behaviour. So, we need to choose our thoughts wisely.

As most of you are responsible and intelligent professionals or business owners, you recognise the importance of staying informed of what is happening in our world. However, much of what we are presented can be quite disheartening – rumours of wars, rising interest rates, economic instability, political antagonism – how do we mitigate those thoughts and stay positive without being presumptuous?

KEEP IT REAL

The wisdom I have gained from my ongoing research has led me to believe that first and foremost I need to relinquish the unrealistic expectation that life needs to always be one sweet,

smooth and easy journey – that is total fantasy. The reality is that life will confront us with both bad and good times – we therefore must come to terms and accept the inevitability of this cycle and be comforted during difficult times that this state is transient and good times will follow. Resign and accept the state you are currently experiencing, but also focus, work towards and prepare to usher in the good times ahead.

Survival will therefore require that we gain the ability to remain steadfast, resilient and flexible, regardless of the season that we find ourselves in. And this can only be achieved through intentionally pursuing the developing of good habits and a good attitude that will allow us to conquer our fears and rise above even the most challenging circumstances.

THE ANATOMY OF HABITS

American author Henry Van Dyke says, “The habits we cultivate and the routine we live will dictate our pattern of living”. Our habits will either block us or allow new dimension of the soul to be released and emerge. Habits are like machines; they consistently turn out the same product. They can’t do anything else; they are design to produce a specific result.

When we are confronted with the need to embrace change, we may need to review and adjust our habits, because change requires new behaviours, thoughts, relationships and a willingness to do battle with old ways of thinking. If your daily habits sabotage you from being flexible, they need to be reviewed. If you feel you are stuck, the first place you need to look at are your daily habits. What are your ‘time wasters’ that are keeping you trapped into poor productivity? If you find yourself caught in a cycle of self-destruction, or keep making the same mistakes, it’s time to declare war on your bad habits. Don’t say ‘Everybody’s doing it,’ or ‘it’s no big deal’. Anything that keeps you enslaved and prevents you from moving forward and reaching your full potential will need to be challenged and removed.

THE LIBERATING POWER OF A GOOD ATTITUDE

A bad attitude is like a flat tire; you won’t get anywhere until you change it.

I can honestly say that when I find myself getting irritable and intolerant of others, I recognise that I need to stop looking at the deficiencies in others and address my own attitude. Sometimes it’s just a case of getting a little extra rest or sleep, taking time out to restore my emotional equilibrium. Few things in life are more important than our attitude so here are five ways to help you get good ones:

1. Realise that your attitude needs to be constantly adjusted: We are only human after all, and life can sometimes be unfair – resentment sets in and if left unchecked it can lead us to a path of bad behaviour and hurting others. The stronger your natural inclination is towards doubt and negativity, the more you will have to work at it. Begin each day with an attitude check, and throughout the day look for ‘red flags’ signalling that you are not doing so well. Don’t tolerate irritability and bad attitude, they will not serve you well. That which is not maintained will deteriorate. Make sure you are operating through good habits that support your health and productivity.

2. Value quiet times, pursue peace and self-nurture: There is a time for giving and a time when we need to replenish your spiritual and emotional equilibrium - you cannot run on an empty tank. If you wish to be effective in your giving, you will need to recognise your limitations, withdraw at appropriate times and ensure that you invest in restoring your health and your mental wellbeing.

3. Review the quality of the information you read and your associations: If you wish to grow in a particular area of person

development, study authors and speakers who have mastered attributes and the lifestyle that you want to emulate. Limit your social media time and refrain from information that highlights problems only, seek to gain solutions-oriented knowledge and information. Associate with people you admire and who can inspire you to constantly improve and move towards your goals.

4. Create your own vision board: Studies confirm that when you write your goals and aspiration down and break them down into steps, then and establish timelines, you are more likely to follow through and achieve them. Review them regularly and measure your progress.

5. Access your gratitude diary daily: As we saw, establishing positive habits will help rewire our brain to respond more rapidly to positive thoughts and opportunities. Studies confirm that establishing a gratitude diary is a proven way of achieving this. Each morning, identify three different things that you can be grateful for. This will set the tone for the day, and it will encourage you to seek out the good experiences in your day rather than allowing yourself to be absorbed by the negative.

IN CONCLUSION

Attitudes are influenced by your thoughts, and thoughts that manifest into actions will shape your world. The good news is that despite what is happening around us, we can still wake up each morning and tell the day how its going to be, rather than becoming victims of circumstances. We have a choice in shaping our future by establishing a mindset that always seeks for answers and solutions for yourself and for others, rather than resigning to an attitude of defeat. Learning to always looking out for the good, is a rewarding habit to develop. It will support you in becoming unstoppable in your journey for achieving your goals.

THE LAUNCH OF THE NEW Undergraduate Certificate In Dermal Interventions

Have you ever had the desire to pursue a degree qualification in aesthetics and dermal therapies, but felt you didn’t have the time or the funds for such a commitment? Here is a new opportunity that will allow you to advance your qualification at a tertiary level. In just six months you can now achieve the Undergraduate Certificate in Dermal Interventions through a flexible and cost-effective way.

Renowned as one of Australia’s leading academic institutions delivering the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics), the Australasian College of Health and Wellness (ACHW) is committed to establishing educational pathways through flexible options without compromising on academic rigor. Recently launched, the Undergraduate Certificate of Dermal Interventions is creating excitement with its amazing possibilities while mitigating some of the past challenges. We caught up with Candice Heskey, Executive Director, Head of School at ACHW to find out more about this new program.

Q1: CANDICE, FOLLOWING THE COVID PANDEMIC THERE HAS NEVER BEEN A GREATER NEED FOR THE INDUSTRY TO STEP-UP THEIR KNOWLEDGE IN DEALING WITH MORE CHALLENGING SKIN CONDITIONS, AS WELL AS ELEVATING THEIR REPUTATION IN A COMPETITIVE MARKET. CAN YOU PLEASE SHARE WITH US HOW THE NEW UNDERGRADUATE CERTIFICATE CAN PROVIDE A MORE FLEXIBLE OPTION FOR SOMEONE TO UPGRADE THEIR QUALIFICATIONS, SKILLS AND KNOWLEDGE?

ACHW’s Undergraduate Certificates were originally made in direct response to the pandemic. The idea was to create qualifications that had a cost, delivery mode and time commitment that was achievable within the constraints of COVID, while still providing valuable education with clear career benefits. The Undergraduate Certificates are each made up of four, degree level units, allowing students to get specialised knowledge at the highest level. Our new Undergraduate Certificate in Dermal Interventions has the same design philosophy, and with the return to normalcy, it can focus more on giving students practical skills, knowledge, and experience in a real-world environment. It provides degree-level learning on all current modalities used in industry and within clinics today, the graduates will understand the science behind what they are doing and be able ensure their clients’ safety, whilst providing exceptional results.

So yes, it’s a very flexible option. In just six months, students will learn all the practical techniques needed to work in a skin and

laser clinic, such as chemical peels, lasers for hair reduction, skin rejuvenation and tattoo removal, skin needling and plasma pen technology.

Q2: IS THE UNDERGRADUATE CERTIFICATE TEQSA ACCREDITED AS A TERTIARY QUALIFICATION AND HOW DOES IT CONTRIBUTE TOWARDS A BACHELOR OF APPLIED HEALTH SCIENCE (CLINICAL AESTHETICS)?

Yes, all Undergraduate Certificates are accredited by TEQSA and are recognised as Higher Education qualifications. Ours sit at the higher end of the spectrum in terms of their academic complexity, this is because they are built from the units of our Bachelor of Applied Science (Clinical Aesthetics). This is one of the great benefits of the Undergraduate Certificate; you can use it as a testing ground for tertiary study. By completing it, you will prove to yourself that you can achieve this level of learning and you can have those units you have completed credited towards our bachelor’s degree, if you choose to continue your studies. If you decide not to, that’s fine too - you have still gained a recognised qualification and highly valuable learning.

Q3: WHO WOULD BE A GOOD CANDITATE FOR THIS QUALIFICATION AND IS THERE FUNDING PROVISION?

Anyone with a passion for dermal therapies and advanced skin treatments wanting both knowledge and practical experience with the most in-demand treatment modalities used today is the perfect candidate for this qualification. It’s an entry-level tertiary course, so the main entry requirement is that you have completed either the HSC or a Certificate IV. And yes, we are Fee-HELP approved to assist you with tuition costs, meaning there are no up-front costs and fees can be deferred to the government loan scheme. This qualification allows graduates to enter the aesthetics industry with confidence and experience in the most current treatments being used today.

APJ

For further details visit www.achw.edu.au

OF THE COVID Skin Manifestation and Solutions Kit?

Over the past three months APAN has been working extensively in consultation with several academics, reviewing the very latest research findings and updates on both COVID related skin manifestation as well as treatment recommendations and solutions as they come to hand.

DELIVERING ON OUR PROMISE

We have finally completed COVID SKIN MANIFESTATIONS AND SOLUTIONS - a 68-page document which will is considered a ‘one-of-a-kind’ manual that compiles the very latest evidencebased findings and treatment recommendations as we now face the next phase and the aftermath of the COVID pandemic.

Studies now confirm over 100 persistent skin manifestations that can be classified under six basic categories that are due to individuals who have experienced COVID-19 infections.

Additionally, studies confirm that up to 70% of individuals who have experience a COVID-19 infection will also experience what is known as COVID long haul with manifestations of ongoing symptoms such as:

• Fatigue

• Brain fog

• Recurring headaches

• Hair loss (particularly with women)

• Irregular sleep

• Depression

As well as potential skin reaction, well after they have overcome the virus.

WHAT WILL THIS DOCUMENT PROVIDE YOU?

COVID SKIN MANIFESTATIONS AND SOLUTIONS is both an APAN ‘Position Statement’ as well as a training document that you can refer to, as well as train your staff on scientifically-based information and evidence-based treatment approaches. The document consists of two sections.

Section 1: Cutaneous Manifestations Impacted by COVID-19.

This section covers the various categories of skin disorder and provides some permitted images to assist in identifying them, their symptoms, and what impact they have of various organs. The objective of this section is to assist you in recognising them as these manifestations may occur prior to a diagnosed infection, during an infection, and they can also manifest months after someone is totally clear of the infection. We also present the latest literature on how the body is impacted and what organs may be compromised.

As a skin practitioner, your client may experience a reaction following one of your treatments, or even after applying a product on their skin. It is therefore important that you are accurately informed to identify if the reaction is COVID related so that you can act accordingly.

Section 2: TREATMENT CONSIDERATIONS AND OPTIONS

In this section we review the literature to determine treatment options that have been deemed valuable to support your clients’ recovery. It covers various treatment modalities and the underlying causes contributing to the various conditions. Treatment modalities and protocols that are recommended have proven benefits and include diet and lifestyle recommendations.

WHY YOU NEED THIS DOCUMENT

This document has been carefully constructed based on existing and emerging studies that will provide the industry with credible data to identify COVID-related symptoms so they can educate both staff and clients in a responsible manner.

It is imperative that every practitioner and business owner in the personal service industry, especially those who offer skin and age-management services access this document and familiarise themselves with its content, as a matter of best practice.

Our aim with this initiative is to provide you with another level of protection and support. Skin manifestations are on the rise, and it

is important that you are accurately informed on how to navigate and address these concerns with your staff.

The program will equip you to build trust with your clients and you will also be able to face these challenges more confidently through an evidence-based approach. APJ

THIS DOCUMENT IS COPYRIGHT PROTECTED AS SOME OF THE INFOMARTION HAS BEEN GIVEN TO US BY PERMISSION FOR OUR USE ONLY. IT WILL BE MADE AVAILABLE TO MEMBERS FOR THEIR PERSONAL USE AND FOR TRAINING THEIR IMMEDIATE STAFF. THIS DOCUMENT IS NOT PERMITTED TO BE GIVEN TO A THIRD PARTY. APAN FINANCIAL MEMBERS WILL BE ABLE TO ACCESS THIS DOCUMENT FREE-OF-CHARGE. NON-MEMBERS WHO WISH ACCESS CAN DO SO AT A FEE OF $400.

If you are a current financial member, please contact us via email or complete the form on our website www.apanetwork.com. If you are not a member, please join us and benefit from this service and on-going professional support. Visit https://apanetwork.com/membership

Alternatively, you can purchase the document from the APAN website www.apanetwork.com

WHY YOU SHOULD CONSIDER OFFERING Treatments For Hairloss

Tina Viney

Hair loss is becoming more common in women with approximately 30% experiencing at least some degree of thinning hair and hair loss in their lifetime. However, because female hair loss tends to be diffused (less hair all over) and because women often maintain their frontal hairline, their hair loss may not be as noticeable, particularly in its early stages. This article will explore contributing factors in female hair loss, psychological impact as well as potential, non-invasive treatment options in a salon or clinic.

Female hair loss is affected by the actions of two enzymes; aromatase (which is found predominantly in women) and 5-alpha reductase (which is found in both women and men). However, since the diffuse pattern of hair loss typically seen in women can be caused by several medical conditions other than common genetic hair loss, a thorough evaluation is particularly important for female patients. If an underlying medical cause can be found and treated, the hair loss can often be reversed.

Hair loss in women is generally very gradual, with the rate accelerating during pregnancy and at menopause. It can also show seasonal variations and it is more easily affected by hormonal changes, medical conditions and external factors.

Contrary to popular belief that hair loss in woman can be easily disguised and does not impact their self-esteem, studies suggest that the psychological effects of female hair loss can be significant for women, and many are emotionally affected, even with modest amounts of thinning hair. This is in part, due to the false assumption that it is uncommon for women to lose their hair and that hair loss in women is perceived to be socially unacceptable. Both perceptions make dealing with hair loss particularly difficult for women.

In addition, some of the widely used medications such as Propecia, may not be indicated for women, so there is a misconception that medical progress in treating female hair loss is not as advanced, or that the medical community does not take the treatment of female hair loss as seriously. Lastly, because hair loss in women can so often be disguised with existing hair, many women choose to hide their hair loss from others. Not sharing their problem tends to isolate them and makes the ability to deal with their hair loss more difficult.

COVID-19 AND FEMALE HAIR LOSS

Since the pandemic, however, long-term side effects following COVID-19 infection have caused many devastating symptoms, from loss of taste and smell to brain fog and fatigue. Hair loss has

also been reported as a common symptom. While this side effect could be one of the most alarming, it is often short lived in most circumstances. Studies confirm however, that following COVID-19, hair loss known as shedding, predominantly affects women.

Patients who experience hair loss from SARS-CoV-2 infection may notice clumps of hair falling out during their daily combings or while washing their hair in the shower. This phenomenon is known as telogen effluvium.

About 90 per cent of hairs on our scalp are in a growth phase, called anagen, and about 10 per cent of hairs are in the telogen resting phase. On our scalp, anagen lasts for about three years, and then hairs begin transitioning into telogen, which lasts between two to six months. At the end of telogen, our hairs are shed from their follicles and gradually replaced by new anagen hairs. Then, the growth cycle continues.

On average, people shed about 100 to 150 hairs a day. But when an individual experiences a stressful event, such as COVID-19 infection, our bodies can prematurely shift a greater than normal proportion of growing anagen hairs into a resting telogen state. Instead of the usual 10 per cent of hairs that are in the resting and shedding phase, up to 50 percent of hairs are resting and shedding, which is much more than normal.

What can trigger hair loss?

• Viral infections

• Hospitalisation

• Surgery

• Childbirth

• Medications, especially hormonal medications

• Thyroid dysfunction

• Entering menopause

• Significant emotional stress

• How long does hair shedding last?

The good news is the majority of telogen effluvium cases are over in about three to six months, when those additional hairs that were

prematurely shifted into telogen have shed. According to studies, this characteristic recovery happens after an inciting event, such as COVID-19 infection. When that period is over, those hairs will slowly shift back to normal. Telogen effluvium does not cause a person to lose their hair follicles. While hair may not temporarily grow, the hair follicles are still present, and hair will eventually regrow.

Even after the shedding has stopped, patients may notice that their hair is not as thick as it once was, this is because of how slowly the hair grows on average, which is about a centimetre a month. If someone has shoulder length hair, it can take over two years for the new hairs to reach that length again and for a ponytail to feel full again.

In less than 10 per cent of cases, patients may experience a condition called chronic telogen effluvium where excessive hair shedding can persist beyond six months. This can last for a couple months to a couple years, and usually no obvious cause can be found.

Chronic telogen effluvium can be a symptom for COVID long haul patients. This is likely because their bodies are undergoing a significant amount of stress and are still not quite back to normal. Studies suggest that patients who experience chronic telogen effluvium will not lose all their hair, because the proportion of telogen hairs never exceeds 50 per cent.

According to published reports, hair shedding following COVID-19 infection can occur a little sooner than average. Instead of three months from an inciting event, it may be closer to two months. Other studies have also noticed faster recovery, around two to three months compared to six months on average.

TREATMENTS FOR HAIR LOSS

In Australia haircare services predominantly fall in the domain of a hair salon or a specialised hair restoration clinic, however, as hair

loss becomes more common, there are simple strategies that you can offer your client as an extension of their skincare that can also benefit them by supporting their hair loss recovery. Here are just a few to consider:

LED light therapy for hair loss

The benefits of red-light therapy are numerous. Studies confirm that LED light therapy uses red and infrared light to reduce inflammation, build collagen and speed the healing of the body by up to 300%. While in recent years LED is considered a facial treatment staple, new advances are producing LED beds which gives a client a full-body LED treatment in just 20 minutes. The bed covers the entire body with red and infrared light, reducing cellulite, lines, wrinkles, sun damage, acne scars and stretch marks to give a smoother and more even skin tone – all over, as well as enhances hair growth.

As we know, red and infrared therapy originated in a clinical setting, although the benefits are also effective in wound healing and anti-ageing. Red light therapy is also used in sports medicine to reduce inflammation and speed the healing of injuries. It’s also highly recommended after plastic surgery because it reduces the amount of bruising and speeds up the healing process. Today, LED is considered a game-changer for every aesthetic and skin clinic. It is particularly useful post dermal needling, or clinical peels as it can rapidly minimise redness.

When it comes to stimulating hair growth, red light is particularly useful for hair and scalp health as it increases blood flow at a dermal level and this also speeds up new hair growth.

Dermal needling

Dermal needling is another amazing tool to help stimulate hair growth. Used on the scalp, it creates micro-wounds increasing collagen production in the skin and also stimulated the

regeneration of the hair follicle that can result in new hair growth and thicken thinning hair. According to Dr Lance Setterfield a needle-depth of 2mm is recommended for scalp hair growth rejuvenation. When performing a dermal needling procedure for the purpose of hair growth, combining it with a hair restoration serum will provide added advantage as the channels created by the dermal needling will enhance penetration of the active ingredients.

Hair Growth Serums

Common ingredients within non-medical hair restoration serums include antioxidant rich ingredients such as castor oil, jojoba oil, green tea and avocado oil and vitamin E, as well as peptiderich repair serum to stimulate healthy hair growth. Other novel ingredients include Siberian ginseng, chaga mushroom and red clover extract.

Another highly effective scalp treatment for enhancing hair growth is based on stem cell release molecules. The NeoGenesis Hair Thickening Serum is a non-invasive alternative based on the patented S²RM® technology that works to help reduce shedding, add noticeable body, shine and density, and renormalise the hair follicle. This allows the natural hair growth process to flourish.

IMPORTANT NUTRIENTS FOR HAIR GROWTH

As with the skin, hair follicles are nurtured through the vascular network available in the dermis that provide blood and oxygen to nourish healthy hair growth. Therefore, the role of nutrition also plays a key role in optimising a healthy cellular environment on which hair can flourish.

A healthy diet rich in fruit, vegetables, seeds, nuts, fish and lean meat are highly recommended. When it comes to vitamins and supplements to promote hair growth there is currently limited research to show which ones promote hair growth in generally healthy people. However, studies do support that several nutrient deficiencies have been associated with hair loss. These include:

Vitamin B: According to a several studies, deficiencies in riboflavin, biotin, folate, and vitamin B12 have been associated with hair loss. While biotin is one of the more popular supplements for hair, skin, and nails, the research supporting its benefits for people with adequate biotin intake is limited.

Similarly, research is inconclusive on whether folate and vitamin B12 are effective for hair growth in people with adequate intakes. Deficiencies in riboflavin, folate, and biotin are rare. However, some individuals may be at a higher risk, including those with

restrictive diets. Vitamin B12 deficiencies are more common, especially in older adults and with people following a vegan diet. For those individuals who are deficient in B12, a supplement can help support overall health as well as support hair growth.

Vitamin C: As we known vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that has several important roles in supporting hair health, such as:

• Contributing to the synthesis of collagen, which contains amino acids, where are essential for building keratin - an important part of healthy hair structure.

• Enhancing the absorption of iron.

• Protecting hair from oxidative stress, which has been linked to hair loss.

Vitamin D: Studies do confirm that vitamin D deficiency is associated with hair loss, but research supporting vitamin D supplementation for hair growth is limited. However, being such an important nutrient with multiple benefits it is recommended if deficiency is identified, this can be investigated through a blood test.

Iron: Iron is an important mineral for many bodily functions, including carrying oxygen to tissues throughout your body. Numerous studies confirm that iron deficiency, which is the most common nutrient deficiency in the world, can lead to anaemia and hair loss, especially in women.

Zinc: Zinc is another important mineral, contributes to immune function, DNA synthesis, and wound healing. A zinc deficiency can lead to hair loss, though the research on the use of zinc supplements for hair growth is inconclusive.

IN CONCLUSION

Whether the incidences of hair shedding is due to COVID long haul, or hair loss due to other health or hereditary reason, it is anticipated that hair loss will continue to increase in the female population and is predicted to reach 38% over the next two years. This opens new opportunities for salons and clinics to investigate expanding their services and provide hair restoration recovery treatments for their female clients. In addition to the above recommendations there are also hair restoration devices that also cater for this market. One company that is considered a leader in this technology is Venus Concept. With average Realself ratings of 95% and 96% respectively, the NeoGraft™ and ARTAS® iX devices provide cutting edge treatments with excellent results.

It has finally arrived...

Are you seeing a higher number of skin manifestations, or reactions to your treatments that your clients have never experience before?

Since 2022 studies are emerging confirming over 100 persistent skin manifestation due to COVID-19 past infections.

Do you know what they are, and are you aware of the six categories that they come under?

Additionally, a condition called COVID long haul has also been identified, characterised by: • Brain fog • Recurring headaches • Hair loss (particularly with women) • Irregular sleep • Depression

Have you, your staff or your clients experience challenges with energy levels?

Gain a full report on all these conditions, as well as potential treatments and recommendations.

COVID SKIN MANIFESTATIONS AND SOLUTIONS is an industry best-practice 68-page documents that will provide you with answers to all these concerns.

All APAN members are required to access this document as a matter of best practice, for their use and for training their staff.

If you are a current member, please contact APAN to access your kit which also includes an educational video by Professor Lawrence Walsh. Send us your email request to info@apanetwork.com

If you are not an APAN member, why not join and benefit from prompt APAN support and, also access this document FREE OF CHARGE. For full member benefits visit www.apanwork.com

Phone us on 07 55930 360

info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com

THE AMAZING ROLE OF HERBS

In Supporting Gut Health

Tina Viney

Maintaining adequate gut health is important as it influences the health of the rest of the body. If your gut is not digesting, absorbing, and assimilating the food you eat, then the rest of the body will suffer, including the skin. Skin irritations may temporarily improve, but without a health gut, your immune response will be compromised leading to additional inflammation that could lead to the return of the original skin condition. Additionally, your skin treatment results may also be unsustainable.

In the United States, 60-70 million people are affected by some

type of digestive disease. Some of the more common ones include reflux (GERD), stomach ulcers, chronic constipation, and/or chronic diarrhoea, which may fall under irritable bowel syndrome, haemorrhoids, celiac disease, and inflammatory bowel conditions. The prevalence of these disorders seems to be on the rise. It has been demonstrated that sometimes a disruption in the environment of your gut can lead to some of these disorders as well as other diseases that don’t exhibit gut-related symptoms.

International studies have demonstrated a dramatic rise in the incidence of the following conditions over the past several decades:

• Inflammatory bowel diseases (IBD)

• Crohn’s disease (CD) and

• Ulcerative colitis (UC)

AUSTRALIAN STATISTICS

These are all chronic inflammatory disorders of the gastrointestinal tract. The IBD incidence rates observed in Australia are among the highest reported in the world literature. According to the Australian Bureau of Statistics Health Census report released on the 18 June 2022 over eight million people reported having a long-term health condition. Of those with long-term health conditions 54.1% were women and 45.9% were men.

As aesthetic and skin therapists, the rise in digestive disorders warrant our consideration in gaining an educated understanding of simple strategies that will allow us to support our clients’ overall wellbeing, as well sustain the longevity of our treatment outcomes. This article is based on a study presented conducted at the Maryland University of Integrative Health examining the benefits of herbs to promote gut health. The study was updated February 11, 2021.

WHAT IS GUT HEALTH?

What is a gut and what makes it healthy? Your “gut” includes all the parts of your digestive tract: the mouth, oesophagus, stomach, pancreas, liver, gallbladder, small intestine, large intestine (colon), and rectum. But there’s more to your gut than your own tissues. You also have about 100 trillion bacteria living inside it! These bacteria play such an influential role in your overall health that they are often called the “forgotten organ.”

Many of the bacteria in your gut are “friendly,” meaning they support your overall health. Some gut bacteria are “bad” because they can make you sick and increase your risk for certain health problems, even depression. Therefore understanding how to kill bad gut bacteria is so important.

Gut health refers to how well-balanced these bacteria are and the overall function of your digestive system. Factors like stress, poor diet and diseases can throw off the balance between good and bad gut bacteria.

A LOOK INSIDE THE GUT

Inside the gut, there is a living ecosystem of bacteria known as the microbiome. The microbiome consists of good bacteria that promote health and bad bacteria that can lead to an unhealthy state known as symbiosis. The health of your microbiome can be affected by antibiotic use, since antibiotics can kill both the good and bad bacteria. A person taking antibiotics needs to replenish their gut vitality through probiotics—either by eating fermented foods or by taking a supplement. Probiotics are good bacteria that help restore the gut to a healthy balance of good bacteria (also called intestinal flora). Additionally, these positive or good bacteria need to be fed to stay alive. Food for good bacteria is called prebiotics.

HERBS AS PROBIOTICS

Probiotics are live organisms that can survive in your digestive tract and offer proven benefits to your health. While we know that fibre is a good source of prebiotics, studies now confirm that certain herbs may offer extra health benefits due to the colonies of friendly bacteria living on them.

One study by Montenegro et al (2015) found that a traditional Japanese herbal blend called Juzen-taiho-to, which includes cinnamon, ginseng, and liquorice, contains bacteria that support the immune system.

What is fascinating is that herbs can act as prebiotics for our microbiome. Some of the good bacteria that make their home in the gut include species such as Bifidobacterium, Lactobacillus (think yogurt), and Bacteroides. Bacteria in your gut that can lead to disease include Citrobacter freundii and Klebsiella pneumonia.

The study by Peterson et. al. (2018 ) examined if herbs typically used in Ayurvedic medicine for gut conditions could alter the development and the quantity of certain species of bacteria. The herbs examined here were slippery elm, liquorice, and a combination of three dried fruits termed triphala. These herbs have been used to treat inflammatory conditions such as ulcerative colitis, Crohn’s disease, GERD (hyperacidity), and

membranes that might be compromised in any way.

TRIPHALA

Triphala may be one of the best herbs for leaky gut. Used in traditional Ayurvedic medicine for centuries, triphala is an herbal blend of three plants: amla (Indian gooseberry), Bibhitaki, and Haritaki. Triphala contains a mild laxative important nutrients and antioxidants and can alleviate gastrointestinal distress such as bloating, constipation, and abdominal pain. Triphala is typically employed to help heal the epithelial lining in the gut, to enhance barrier function (keeping the gut from becoming leaky), and to improve absorption of nutrients.

LIQUORICE ROOT

Liquorice root is often used to help with digestive irritation by providing a protective cover over the membrane lining, and to help decrease inflammation. Research including a doubleblind study by Raveendra et al (2011) reveals that liquorice root contains plant compounds that can alleviate stomach discomfort. Another study by Hajiagha mohammad et al (2016) found that liquorice root helped eliminate a bad gut bacteria called H. pylori, which can cause peptic ulcers.

SLIPPERY ELM

Finally, slippery elm is used for healing the mucous membranes in the gut. Slippery elm has been shown to improve bowel movements in patients with irritable bowel syndrome (Hawrelak and Meyers, 2010), alleviate heartburn, and provide an antioxidant effect in inflammatory bowel conditions like Crohn’s (Langmead et al, 2002).

IN-VITRO METHODS

Using in-vitro (outside the human body) methods, the authors found that these herbs helped promote the abundance of certain species of bacteria. Triphala significantly increased the abundance of bacteria Acidaminococcus and Sutterella. Slippery elm had the greatest impact on bacteria belonging to the family of Clostridium. Liquorice demonstrated an increase to Bacteroides. This confirms that the herbs used can act as prebiotics to increasing numbers of good bacteria. In addition, liquorice root was able to decrease the population of potential opportunistic invaders Enterococcus faecalis and Klebsiella pneumoniae. These potential disease-causing bacteria have been linked to the development of a leaky gut (intestinal permeability).

Future studies in human subjects will help clarify the effect of herbal medicine on gut health. But current laboratory studies

help us understand how and why herbs have such an instrumental role in overall well-being.

By restoring gut flora, herbal plants (and the probiotic bacteria found on them) can maximise the body’s ability to absorb nutrients and eliminate toxins. In this way, herbs for gut health benefit many parts of the body, not just the digestive tract.

ANTIBIOTICS AND GUT HEALTH

As we know, antibiotics are prescribed medications used to fight bacterial infections and kill bad bacteria in the gut, bloodstream, and elsewhere in the body. Like most medications, antibiotics come with side effects. According to the U.S. National Library of Medicine, these side effects may include nausea, diarrhoea, yeast infections, and skin rashes. Side effects and adverse reactions can happen because of the way these powerful drugs affect gut health.

HOW ANTIBIOTICS IMPACT GUT HEALTH

Antibiotics are prescribed to get rid of bad gut bacteria by creating antibiotics. Unfortunately, antibiotics also tend to also kill some of the good bacteria in your gut. This throws off gut health and may allow unhealthy bacteria like C. difficile to grow out of control. C. difficile infections can cause severe diarrhoea, gut tissue damage, or even death in extreme cases.

HOW TO REPLENISH GOOD BACTERIA AFTER ANTIBIOTICS

If a doctor prescribes you antibiotics, it’s important you take these medications exactly as prescribed, even if you start to feel better. Improperly taking antibiotics can lead to antibiotic resistance, which means bacteria evolve so that they can’t be killed by the bad bacteria anymore. These antibiotic-resistant bugs can then go on to infect other people.

That said, taking antibiotics can be incredibly harsh on your gut health. If your imbalanced gut isn’t restored, you may be at risk for future health problems. To replenish good bacteria in your gut after taking antibiotics, focus on maintaining healthy lifestyle habits, such as:

• Exercising

• Managing stress

• Not smoking

• Maintaining a healthy diet rich in fruits, vegetables, and

probiotic herbs (while avoiding refined sugar, alcohol, and processed foods)

• Getting enough sleep

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT HERBS AND GUT HEALTH

How do I kill bad gut bacteria?

You can kill bad gut bacteria and support healthy bacteria in several ways. Diet may be one of the most important and most effective. Focus on eating plenty of fruits and veggies, which are rich in fibre and micronutrients that healthy bacteria need to grow. You can also add herbal remedies to your healthy lifestyle for an added benefit.

How to improve gut microbiome in a day?

Your gut microbiome (the population of bacteria living in your digestive tract) is frequently changing in response to your food, environment, stress level, and so on. It may take more than one day to change your gut microbiome, but recent research suggests a healthy diet rich in plants and herbs can rapidly improve your gut health.

What happens if you don’t restore gut health?

If you don’t restore gut health, harmful bacteria can flourish and grow in your digestive tract. This can lead to health problems such as C. difficile infections. Poor gut health has also been linked to an increased risk of chronic diseases, including gastrointestinal disorders, depression, and obesity.

As diet plays such an important role in skin and overall health, you consultation form should include questions to determine dietary habits, giving you the opportunity to educate and support your client through evidence-based recommendations. APJ

ROCCOCO BOTANICALS

Winner of the Cosmetic & Toiletries Alle Award

Totally passionate about restoring skin health Jacine GreenwoodDrummond has taken here small skincare company to a multimillion-dollar enterprise in just five years and right in the middle of a pandemic and economic crisis. Not only is she an innovative cosmetic chemist, she is also a force to be reckoned with and an inspiration to so many within our industry and in the business world. Recently, one of her innovative products picked up the coveted Alle Award in New York as the winner of the Most Significant Skin/Bodycare Formula-Indie category. Here Jacine shares highlights of her achievements and what drives her to excel with her formulations.

APJ Q1: Congratulations Jacine for picking up the 2022 Cosmetics & Toiletries Alle Award for your amazing Ruby Crystal Cleanser. Give us a brief description of these awards.

The Alle Awards have a 10-year history and are officially known as the Cosmetic & Toiletries Alle Awards that were created to illuminate ingenuity in cosmetics and personal care research and development. The awards were held in New York and the judging panel consisted of 16 internationally renowned cosmetic chemists and product development innovators from leading brands such as Chanel, Burt’s Bees, Estee Lauder, Elysée Scientific Cosmetics, just to name a few.

Q2: How did you learn about these awards and what motivated you to enter?

As a cosmetic chemist and product formulator I subscribed to the Cosmetic & Toiletries Magazine and through that, I learned about these awards. While our products had only been launched for a few years, I thought that I would give it a go. While I was a scared to enter, I thought “why not, what do I have to lose and it could be an interesting exercise.”

Q3: Tell us what inspired you to formulate the Ruby Crystal Cleanser, and what is unique about this formula?

What inspired me was research on surfactants and the skin barrier and how surfactants can interact with skin barrier and deplete lipids. While we wash our face with a cleanser and feel that it is clean, surfactants can remain on the skin causing inflammation. Depending on the cleanser’s composition, it will either heal the skin, or it will harm it, contributing to inflammation.

Many people consider a cleanser a ‘nothing product’, so they don’t pay much attention to is. Afterall it only stays on the skin for a minute or just a few seconds. Why not just invest in a more expensive serum or more expensive cream? So, the challenge in creating the Ruby Crystal Cleanser was to create a product that showed that although it only remains on the skin for approximately 30 seconds, with the right formulation it can create dramatic change to the skin, despite the fact that it is just a cleanser. And so that’s what the aim of it was. The uniqueness of the Ruby Crystal Cleanser is that it is a 7-in-1 cleansing balm:

• It reduces redness

• It evens out skin tone to reduce the appearance of pigmentation through the use of ethyl linoleate.

• It repairs the skin barrier and achieves this through a combination of oat oil which has natural ceramides.

• It also reduces histamine levels.

• It also contains passionfruit, which accelerates wound repair as well as collagen production.

• It is also antimicrobial.

• Reduces congestion and clogging.

So, that’s the seven things that it does. The challenge was how do we create something that can have a dramatic impact on the skin, within such a brief period. It’s easy to get results when you leave a product on the skin, but it’s far more difficult to impact the skin when the product only remains on the skin for such a short period of time. But we were able to achieve this. The purpose of the rubies in the product were partly for their esoteric properties that are meant to be detoxifying, as we wanted something that was a little bit innovative.

We also wanted something that was visually appealing for consumers because I think the sensorial elements has its attraction, this is why consumers are drawn to department store because their skincare products look better and more appealing and innovative than most professional products.

Innovation is at the heart of Rococo. I wanted to do something that was functional, but also completely different.

The other aim was to also create a product that was both natural and sustainable.

Q4: Share with us some highlights how Roccoco was born and to what do you attribute

Roccoco was born purely from frustration with my own skin. I had cystic acne from when I was about 14. It was not just on my face; it also covered my entire back. I went to all the cosmetic counters at David Jones and Myers but did not able to gain any resolution for my skin condition. I also went to a dermatologist, but the results were very short-lived. I also found that the treatment from the dermatologist made my skin very dry and sensitive, and so I stopped taking the prescribed antibiotics and topical creams that I was given. I then decided to go and see beauty therapists and I kept getting conflicting stories from different therapists. So, I realised that there was something wrong, as I was not getting consistent messages and none of them were able to fix my skin.

This led me to study beauty therapy for myself. From there I undertook postgraduate courses and originally self-taught myself cosmetic chemistry, however, I eventually completed my qualifications as a chemist which I completed five years ago.

its success?

An Interview with Jacine Greenwood-Drummond

I attribute the success of Roccoco, to the fact that at the core of everything that I formulate is driven by my incredible passion to fix skin conditions. Up until I met my husband five years ago, all I did was read journal articles. That’s all I did. I didn’t watch TV. I didn’t do anything else except read journals. I was a complete nerd. Because my belief is if you don’t understand a problem, then you can’t fix it. So that’s why the research is so crucial for me because I needed to better understand what I was dealing with.

Skin conditions don’t form just one way, they have numerous factors that influence their development. There is not one magic bullet, or one magic ingredient. I hear this a lot from therapists“tell me what is your miracle active?” they ask. I can tell you that there isn’t one miracle active – it’s about conducting thorough research and creating a formula that brings several elements together. What has been most surprising to me, it that when I have spoken to various suppliers and shown them my results, they are shocked. Why, because they may be using similar, or the same ingredients and they don’t get the same results as us. So, it isn’t all about the ingredient, it’s about the synergy and the way the formula is put together that makes the difference.

Q5: How do Roccoco products differ from other skincare lines, and what is its competitive advantage?

I would say probably our biggest difference is the fact that I’m a chemist and an aesthetician, and I’ve devoted myself to skin science. Often when I look at other formulas, they are often missing pieces of the puzzle, and they don’t fix the skin condition properly. Aestheticians of tell me the same this as well. We also have a very big focus on acne and sensitive skin. And what I often find with most barrier repair products is they may be good for barrier repair, but they’re not good for acne.

I believe our key point of difference is that we formulate products that treat multiple things at the same times through the one product. For example, with acne, we can treat acne and rosacea, as well as eczema, at the same time as scarring. There are very few products that can allow you to treat acne and eczema at the same time, or acne and scarring at the same time. Usually, you are required to go through different phases of treatment, and it’s because of the way that we curate our ingredients. We specifically target to address multiple pathways and multiple skin considerations all at once, this is why we get such dramatic results so quickly, whereas most brands will treat the acne first, then produce a product to treat the scarring.

We also have such a strong focus on sensitive skins. All our ingredients are tested on sensitive skins. Material Safety Data Sheets may say that it has repeat insult patch testing done and it’s not a problem, yet when we test it there is a problem.

There’s a huge myth in the industry that natural products don’t deliver results, and this is incorrect. This is purely because often many ‘natural products’ have not been incredibly well formulated. Or it just lacks the efficacy for whatever they’re doing. There is also a huge variance in the quality of raw materials. I’ll give you a classic example - this morning. I have just received delivery of a sandalwood seed oil, which I got from a different competitor because I wanted to compare it to the product we were buying, as it was half the price. However, it didn’t look or smell the same and I can guarantee it won’t perform the same.

There’s a huge difference in the quality of raw materials and you can’t tell from an ingredient deck. I keep saying this to my clinic owners. “Don’t look at someone’s ingredient deck and think you’re going to get the same results because they may be using the same ingredients that we are using”. We also check the efficacy and data of raw materials, and we also test our products to make sure that they’re delivering what they should be delivering. The big difference with Roccoco products is that they are acne safe, safe

for sensitive skins and our ingredients are natural. And I don’t know any other product that go through the same process and do what our products do - this is what differentiate our products.

Q6: Where do you gain your inspiration for product development, as well as business development?

My inspiration for product development usually comes through intuition. For examples, presently I am gaining inspiration from haircare, and we plan to do some different things within the next year. But generally, my inspiration comes from people who are reaching out to me and saying, “Hey, I have this skin condition and I can’t fix it, can you help?” I also review what is on the market and think “how can I do something differently, do it better and fill in a niche?”

My inspiration for business development comes from my four mentors. Mentors are important if you want to be an achiever. They are designed to bring out the best in you and often they will call you out on your limited thinking this is why they are important. Sometimes we can be too close to things, and we can’t see where we are holding ourselves back and limiting our progress. I have just finished training with John Assaraf. I also subscribe to Mindvalley.

Making sure that my headspace and my mindset is right is crucial because with business decisions, if you are focused on things going wrong or you’re focused on the lack, or some disaster, you generally attract that to yourself. So, I get crystal clear on what it is that I actually want to achieve. The clearer I am on this the easier it is for me to achieve it. I’m very big on vision boards and everything that I put on my vision board happens. So that’s where I put my focus. I also meditate every day and visualise what I want. Your mindset is crucial for business success because the way we think determines our actions and actions determine our results.

Q7: What is your vision for the future of Roccoco?

My vision for the future is we’re planning on going more and more toward eco-sustainability. We are looking at fully recyclable packaging, refillable packaging, biodegradable refills for our clients so that we don’t have to keep buying so much packaging. This will allow them to refill their existing packaging, especially with things like cleansers and essences, and that’s a bit more sustainable. We are also looking at expanding into haircare and developing a full haircare range. Toward the end of next year, we are also looking at moving into makeup as well.

We wish Jacine and Roccoco Botanicals every success for her future endeavours and look forward to her next innovative move in the exciting world of cosmetic formulations. APJ

ROCCOCO BOTANICALS Transformational Skin Perfecting Kits

Leading the way of innovation Roccoco Botanicals launches two utterly transformational skin perfecting at home facial kits, promising results within a single use.

Winner of the Alle Awards, our awardwinning Ruby Crystal Cleansing Balm is a luxurious aromatic gem infused cleanser that replenishes vital essential fatty acids and accelerates skin repair, reducing the appearance of inflammation and discoloration in the skin. Skin is instantly calmed and visibly refreshed. Enriched with passionfruit seed oil and oat oil for the ultimate in calming and healing. This 7-in-1 luxe balm reduces inflammation and prevents more breakouts.

Discover the ultimate skin softness and hydration with this powdered enzyme that turns to mousse with the addition of water, Berry Biotic Enzyme containing two biological enzymes that rapidly smooth the surface of the skin and brightening its appearance. Rich in natural beta-carotene from sweet potato this gentle enzyme inhibits the appearance of downy hair on the face.

Instantly reduce the appearance of wrinkles by 50% within 15 minutes with Coffee and Cream Mask. Upcycled coffee accelerates wound repair and healing of

the skin. It volumises the skin’s contours and smooths the surface of the skin. Coffee and Cream Mask decreases advanced glycation end products by up to 78%, increases microcirculation and naturally increased glutathione in the skin, fights dull skin and enhances the skin’s luminosity. The addition of Brazilian clay detoxifies the skin mitigating the effects of pollution.

Charcoal Clarity Mask is the ultimate overnight zit flattener. This powerful mask contains charcoal which absorbs oleic acid on the skin, reducing comedone formation. It regulates and reduces inflammation by quietening the immune response of the skin, resulting in quicker clearance of lesions. Kills acne bacteria within 10 minutes. Rich in Echium Oil which contains high levels of a compound called stearidonic acid. DHT is blocked by 100%.

Overnight Recovery Mask is the microbiome hacking mask that rapidly reduces irritation and restores the microbiome back to pre-mask wearing. This gentle gel crème mask rapidly repairs the skin barrier restoring hydration and decreasing sensitivity. This sleeping mask resets the circadian rhythm of the skin, quickly restoring balance to the most disrupted skin. Containing upcycled betaine from Sugar Beets. Indigo promotes a luminous glow and decreases skin sensitivity.

CLARITY AT HOME FACIAL KIT CONTAINS: Ruby Crystal Cleanser, Berry Biotic Enzyme, Charcoal Clarity Mask, Overnight Recovery Mask, LIMITED EDITION Roccoco Branded Headband and LIMITED EDITION Roccoco Bamboo Mask Brush, Spatula, Spoon and Bowl.

RENEWAL AT HOME FACIAL KIT CONTAINS: Ruby Crystal Cleanser, Berry Biotic Enzyme, Coffee and Cream Mask, Overnight Recovery Mask, LIMITED EDITION Roccoco Branded Headband and LIMITED EDITION Roccoco Bamboo Mask Brush, Spatula, Spoon and Bowl. APJ

ROCCOCO BOTANICALS | 07 3807 1429 jacine@roccoco.com | www.au.reccoco.com

IMMUNE RESPONSE &

The Science Of Essential Oils

Tina Viney

Each one of us has an internal system that is designed to help defend and protect us from the invasion of harmful pathogens, be they viruses, infections, fungus, parasites or even cancer. That system is called our IMMUNE SYSTEM. This amazing system is made up of a complex network of cells, chemicals, tissues and organs and it is designed to recognises pathogenic invaders as well as abnormal cells and mounts an immune response to help the body fight the invasion. An underactive or overactive immune system can cause health issues, therefore supporting the immune system is so important to our health and wellbeing. In this article we will briefly review some of the functions of the immune system to refresh our knowledge of why it is so important. We will then identify various essential oils that are supported in the literature as beneficial in strengthening the immune system and ways of using them.

HOW DOES THE IMMUNE SYSTEM WORK?

The immune system involves many parts of the body. Each part plays a role in recognising foreign microbes, communicating with other parts of the body, and working to fight the infection. Parts of the immune system consists of:

• Skin – the first line of defence

• Bone marrow – helps produce immune cells

• The thymus gland – located in the upper chest where some immune cells mature

• Lymphatic system – the network of tiny vessels which allows immune cells to travel between tissues and the bloodstream. The lymphatic system contains lymphocytes (white blood cellsmostly T cells and B cells), which recognise any bacteria, viruses or other foreign substances in the body and fight them.

• The spleen – an organ under the ribs on the left that processes information from the blood

• Mucous membrane – like the lining of the inside of the mouth

Overall, the immune system works to defend the body against harmful factors such as:

• Viruses

• Bacteria

• Fungi

• Parasites

• Cancer cells

The immune system is activated when it encounters something it considers to be a harmful foreign substance. This is known as an antigen. An example of an antigen is the spike protein found on the surface of the novel coronavirus, SARSCoV-2. Once an antigen is recognised, an immune response is generated. This involves signalling between the different cells of the immune system by both cell-to-cell contact and by signalling molecules called cytokines.

There are two types of immune response — innate and adaptive. While they both work closely together, they each have different functions. The innate response is non-specific and happens immediately. Think of the cells of the innate immune system as first responders. There are many types of innate immune cells. A few examples are:

• macrophages

• monocytes

• dendritic cells

• neutrophils

• eosinophils

Innate immune cells recognise patterns on foreign substances and can go on to activate the adaptive response. The innate immune response also often leads to inflammation, which is typically promoted by the release of specific cytokines.

The adaptive immune response is specific and associated with memory. After exposure to an antigen, the adaptive immune system learns how to respond to it again in the future. Examples of cells in the adaptive immune response are B cells and T cells.

IMMUNE SYSTEM DYSFUNCTION

Overactivity of the immune system is related to disorders such as allergies and autoimmune diseases. Allergies involve an immune response to something considered harmless in most people, such as pollen or a mild reaction to certain food. Autoimmune diseases, such as multiple sclerosis and rheumatoid arthritis are more severe and occur when the immune system attacks normal components of the body.

Underactivity, of the immune system, or immunodeficiency, can increase the risk of infection. You may be born with an immunodeficiency (known as primary immunodeficiency, PID), or acquire it from a medical treatment or another disease such as viruses (known as secondary immunodeficiency).

ESSENTIAL OILS AND THE SCIENCE OF IMMUNE SUPPORT

Over the past decade the popularity of essential oils has skyrocketed. According to research (Statista), in 2019, the value of essential oil imports into Australia totalled 89.9 million U.S. dollars. The value of Australia’s essential oil imports peaked in 2020 at a value of over 100 million U.S. dollars and these figures are continuing to rise as consumers learn more about their use and benefits.

While the specific benefits of various essential oils have been anecdotal in the past, several studies have recent emerging investigating the antiviral potential of essential oils and their chemical constitutes with specific focus on understanding their mechanism of action against viruses and infections. Here are a few that are supported by recent studies.

Eucalyptus, Thyme and Tea Tree: Recent research conducted a comparative study on the antiviral activity of three essential oils – eucalyptus, thyme and tea tree oils. They identified their main therapeutic constituents as terpenes, phenylpropanoids as being responsible for their biological properties. Essential oil from these three oils and their major monoterpene compounds alpha-terpinene, gamma-terpinene, alpha-pinene, p-cymene, terpinen-4-ol, alpha-terpineol, thymol, citral and 1,8-cineole were examined for their antiviral activity against herpes simplex virus type 1 (HSV-1) in vitro. The study identified that the main constituents that are responsible for their biological properties were terpenes and phenylpropanoids.

The studies conclude that these essential oils were able to reduce viral infectivity by >96%, the monoterpenes inhibited HSV by about >80%. The mode of antiviral action was revealed as moderate by essential oils and monoterpenes when these oils were added to host cells prior to infection or after entry of HSV into cells. However, both essential oils and monoterpenes exhibited high anti-HSV-1 activity by direct inactivation of free virus particles. All tested oils interacted in a dose-dependent manner with herpesvirus particles thereby inactivating viral infection.

Among the analysed compounds, monoterpene hydrocarbons were slightly superior to monoterpene alcohols in their antiviral activity, alpha-pinene and alpha-terpineol revealed the highest selectivity index. However, mixtures of different monoterpenes present in natural tea tree essential oil revealed a ten-fold higher selectivity index and a lower toxicity than its isolated single monoterpenes. This supports the concept of synergy and its ability to amplify benefits with the right combination.

Another study published in the medical journal Phytotherapy Research also found that thyme essential oil, in conjunction with tea tree and eucalyptus, reduced viral infectivity by more than 96 per cent. On its own, thyme is a powerful anti-infectious agent that has been found in many studies to kill harmful bacteria and fungi, in addition to viruses due to its high carvacrol content.

Comprehensive studies also support the antimicrobial and antiviral properties of the following essential oils:

Oregano: Another well-studied oil is oregano. As indicated in a study published in the journal Food Chemistry, Oregano, due to its high percentage of the chemical constituent carvacrol exhibits potent antiviral activity against a variety of different viruses. While the flu virus wasn’t studied in this research, oregano’s widespread antiviral activity is well documented. A quick search at the National Library of Medicine will provide you with several studies.

Peppermint: Peppermint essential oil is among the most promising natural antiviral remedies, particularly when dealing with the herpes virus, which is at the root of cold sores. In

a study published in the journal Phytomedicine, scientists reported peppermint essential oil demonstrated high potency in lab tests against the herpes virus, even against strains that did not respond to the drug acyclovir in the study.

Melissa (lemon balm): Melissa essential oil, also known as lemon balm, is a well-documented antiviral herb. Research in the medical journal Virus Disease found that, in lab studies, the essential oil of the plant prevented the avian flu virus’s ability to replicate, which is necessary for the disease to spread or survive.

Cinnamon: Not just for sprinkling on lattés, cinnamon essential oil is effective against multiple virus strains. In a recent study published in the medical journal Microbiology Open, researchers found that cinnamon essential oil was effective against flu viruses when combined with eucalyptus and rosemary essential oils.

Ginger: This long-time favourite demonstrates antiviral activity against colds and flu. An animal study found gingerroot to have antiviral action against the avian flu, while other research shows activity against the herpes simplex virus.

Probably the most comprehensive investigation in the antiviral properties of essential oils was a study entitled: An update and comprehensive review of the antiviral potential of essential oils and their chemical constituents with special focus on their mechanism of action against various influenza and coronaviruses. This study was conducted in 2021 and published in the Journal of Microbial Pathogenesis.

This study reviewed the mechanism of the following essential oils: cinnamon, bergamot, lemongrass, thyme and lavender. The study conclusions were very encouraging confirming that these essential oils and their chemical constituents bear strong potential to target vital pathways during pathogenesis of viral life cycle. They were proven to easily penetrate the virus membrane therefore causing membrane disruption. The report also stated that essential oils have a remarkable potential of inhibiting virus attachment (by inhibition of ACE-2) and replication (by inhibition of Mpro) as well as a strong tendency to suppress the cytokine storm generated by SARS-Cov-2 infection and hence inhibit the alveolar inflammation. The study also identified that these essential oils were proven to inhibit the macrophages recruitment to the damaged site and for this reason, it was suggested that they could be beneficial in suppressing the severe symptoms caused by the viral infection.

IN CONCLUSION

While this study provides information in targeting a viral infection, which would be an activity outside of our scope of practice, it presents some compelling conclusions that essential oils have impressive capabilities against infections and are worth investigating. If you wish to access the full research document, please email info@apanetwork.com and request Microbial Pathogenesis 152 (2021) 104520.

As you can see, essential oils can be a valuable tool in providing a safer work environment when inhaled or introduced through a diffuser. However, when applying to the skin, you will require special training and thorough knowledge on their contraindications as they are potent substances. APJ

References: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19653195/

Susceptibility of herpes simplex virus type 1 to monoterpenes thymol, carvacrol, p-cymene and essential oils of Sinapis arvensis L., Lallemantia royleana Benth. and Pulicaria vulgaris Gaertn.

Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) oil and its monoterpene

PRINCIPLES FOR SAFE AND EFFECTIVE

Pairing Of Active Ingredients

Tina Viney

The science of cosmetic chemistry is a fascinating one. While we work with completed skincare formulations, the power of serums that provide individual ingredients in high concentrations can accelerate skin improvement if used correctly. In recent times there is a move in skin therapy to combine actives in pursuit of a synergistic effect. As we know, the theory of synergy, when it comes to cosmetic chemistry, is based on the concept that the combined value and performance of two substances will be greater than the sum of the separate individual parts. So, which ingredients can provide a synergistic benefit when combined, and which ones will weaken and compromise their efficacy and should never be paired? In this article we explore these questions.

Vitamin C + Ferulic Acid and/or Vitamin E:

When it comes to vitamin C, look for a serum that includes ferulic acid and/or vitamin E to maximise its effects. Vitamin C

is beneficial in the treatment of sagging, textural abnormalities, and skin discolouration. However, vitamin C is very unstable (especially L-Ascorbic acid), which is where these two other components - vitamin E and ferulic acid - help stabilise vitamin C and keep it from deteriorating. Plus, when it comes to delivering those beneficial antioxidant properties, all three perform synergistically when combined. The synergistic benefit of combining vitamins C and E is considered one of the most studied and validated in the literature.

Hyaluronic Acid + Vitamin C:

In this tumultuous ingredient market, this is the greatest couple to look for. Hyaluronic acid is a humectant that helps the skin retain moisture by tying moisture from the air and your skincare products together. This acid has the ability to store many times its weight in water, making it an excellent moisturiser. Skin that is well hydrated has a plump and energetic appearance. As we know, vitamin C brightens the skin while also promoting the production of elastin and collagen. It also protects the skin from the harmful UV rays that the skin is exposed to daily. When used together, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C can improve skin texture and clarity.

Peptides + Retinoids:

This is an excellent combination - retinoids have excellent collagen-building properties, but when combined with peptide serum it helps enhance its penetration, which can optimise skin firmness. Furthermore, if the peptides are included in a cream, the emollient properties of the cream can help mitigate the unpleasant side effects that frequently accompany retinoid use. Apply the retinoid first, then the peptide cream on top.

Niacinamide + Retinol:

Exploring active ingredients can be difficult if you have sensitive skin. However, with the right combination you can mitigate the irritation. Retinol when combined with niacinamide may be the perfect complement to start incorporating into a sensitive skin’s daily routine.

For acne skin, retinol can reduce oil production and help calm aggravation-induced acne. While using retinol alone can be too drying for a sensitive skin, the stability of niacinamide can help protect the skin from aggravation. This combination can clear skin congestion while also increasing hydration.

Retinol and Bakuchiol

As you may know, bakuchiol is a natural version of retinol, but milder, without the potential to irritate, so can you use them in combination? The answer is yes, they can. In fact, research shows that the two ingredients can work effectively together. The reason why is that bakuchiol’s potent, but calming and stabilising properties allow retinol to work better and increase the skin’s tolerance to the ingredient. This powerful duo can make a tremendous difference on various visible skin concerns, including wrinkles, dark spots, and saggy skin. With sensitive skin it is an excellent choice to start with bakuchiol and progressively strengthen the skin’s tolerance, by lowering inflammation, then as stage two, combine bakuchiol with retinol and trial for skin tolerance.

Retinoids/Retinoids + Moisturiser:

As we know, retinoid is a form of vitamin A that works wonders in the fight against ageing. It has a high rate of cell turnover, which means it can help your skin repair itself more quickly. While the skin does this naturally, the cell renewal cycle slows down with age. By combining retinoids with a hydrating moisturiser you can contribute to skin damage inversion, while the moisturiser can prevent water loss.

SKIN INGREDIENT COMBINATIONS TO AVOID

Benzoyl peroxide + Hydroquinone: (medical use only)

Hydroquinone lightens skin to erase dark spots and scars, whilst benzoyl peroxide is a spot treatment for acne and lesions. When the two substances are combined, they can cause a bleaching effect, which may leave marks on the skin. By avoiding the use of these two substances together, you can avoid unwanted pigmentation.

Vitamin C + Niacinamide:

Niacinamide and vitamin C are both beneficial to the skin, but not when combined, as niacinamide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C, preventing skin improvement potential. It is best to recommend vitamin C before applying sunscreen in the morning and apply niacinamide as part of the evening skincare routine.

Vitamin C + Retinol

Retinol and vitamin C, taken separately, assist to brighten the complexion, erase dark spots, and delay the effects of ageing. However, combining them is not recommended as it may cause skin irritation. The best option is to include vitamin C as part of a morning routine and retinol in the evening routine.

Glycolic acid + salicylic acid

Exfoliating chemicals like salicylic and glycolic acid are used to improve skin texture, prevent wrinkles, and treat acne. Because both chemicals are drying, combining them can deplete your skin’s natural oils and cause irritation. Excessive exfoliating might harm the skin’s natural barrier, resulting in further problems.

PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES FOR BEGINNERS

Extra Exfoliation isn’t always a good thing

Using retinol and chemical exfoliants in tandem can result in peeling, irritation, and even burns. To begin, use alpha hydroxy acids (such as glycolic) or beta hydroxy acids (such as salicylic) twice a week, but not on the same time that you apply retinol. Lactic acid, on the other hand, is more hydrating than the others.

Don’t Excessively Use Active Ingredients

Too much of a good thing may be harmful, so avoid stacking a lot of powerful and highly active ingredients. An example is using a glycolic acid cleanser followed by a glycolic acid lotion, for example, can potentially irritate skin.

Don’t forget to include an antioxidant

Vitamin C is one of the most sought-after nutrients for all skin types. It protects your skin from the sun, boosts collagen production, and improves skin tone. Vitamin C will be destabilised if used with a moisturiser or toner that contains an alpha hydroxy acid (for example, glycolic acid).

The perfect night-time ingredient

Using a retinoid to finish a nightly skincare routine will help enhance the skin’s vitality. As retinol breaks down in the sun it’s best used in the evening and shouldn’t be stacked or used with certain substances like salicylic acid or vitamin C. Cleanse, apply an essential moisturiser and forgo exfoliating for the next two mornings if you’re using retinol.

Optimum concentration of active skin ingredients

When it comes to skin care, it’s a frequent fallacy that more is better. Of course, it will come down to the skin condition and your treatment objectives. However, it is best if your initial goal is to strengthen the skin’s immune and barrier function by utilising ingredients that support the proliferation of the skin’s microbiome regardless of the skin type. Look for Lactococcus ferment lysate, an effective probiotic that helps to maintain the skin barrier, which is often impacted when using harsh chemicals or with acne skin conditions.

Once you strengthen the skin’s tolerance and optimise its health, you can then procedure with more intense of invasive procedures. It would seem obvious that the more ingredient actives you apply to your skin, the better the outcomes and the faster you’ll see results. This misunderstanding can lead to a desire to seek out items with the largest amounts of potent chemicals. However, with the wrong ingredient combination the result can potentially harm the skin.

INGREDIENT STRENGTHS FOR SKIN IMPROVEMENT

Vitamin C: 10 to 20% contingent upon the resistance of your skin

Hyaluronic Acid: 1 to 2%

Retinol and other Vitamin A fixings: 2% or less

Salicylic Acid (BHA): 2% or less

Benzoyl Peroxide: 2.5%

CONCLUSION

Layering skincare ingredients can provide you with great potential for accelerated skin improvement, by “shocking” skin cells and enhancing collagen and elastin proliferation, especially, if combined with antioxidant and hydrating ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid or niacinamide. When determining ingredient compatibility, you will first need to commence with a thorough skin consultation to determine the skin’s overall health, potential tolerance levels and sensitivities. From there, you can establish the best strategy for skin improvement.

ISSADA LAUNCHES TWO INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS

For acne and problematic skin conditions

Acne, and skin prone to breakouts can be very distressing and required a targeted skincare approach with ingredients that provide an anti-bacterial action, minimise inflammation, while also protecting the skin’s barrier function.

ISSADA has developed two innovative products specifically formulate to address these concerns and support the skin healing process.

ISSADA ACNE-PRONE MOISTURISER

The new ISSADA Acne-Prone Moisturiser is once again an all-time favourite. With its amazing array of natural ingredients AcneProne Moisturiser supports healing and breakouts, while also enhancing the skin’s hydration levels. Ingredients include:

• Bisabolol to reduce irritation and redness.

• Ginger Root Extract to maintain collagen production, support healing and help to reduce the formation of acne scarring,

• Epidermal Growth Factor helps improve the quality of the skin by facilitating the skin’s natural exfoliation process, reducing blocked pores and the build-up of dead cells.

• Willow Bark Extract soothes irritated skin and provides antibacterial properties.

• Bakuchiol the natural alternative to retinol, it increases cell turnover just like retinol, improving skin texture without the irritation and photosensitivity that can be caused by retinol.

Additionally, ISSADA Acne-Prone Moisturiser is packed with vitamin B3, hyaluronic acid, rosehip oil and silica to absorb excess oil on the skin.

ISSADA BREAKOUT CONTOL GEL

For a targeted spot treatment ISSADA Breakout Control Gel is a powerful formula that acts swiftly to treat unwelcomed spots and acne breakouts. Active ingredients include:

Salicylic acid, paired with pineapple extract dissolve impurities by its enzymic action. Australian tea tree, lemon myrtle and white willow bark provide strong antibacterial action, while licorice root extract provides anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. APJ

To become a stockist please call 07 3904 2288 or visit issada.com/partners

BARRIER RENEWAL CREAM

Clinically Proven for Optimal Skin Barrier Function

Every day, we protect our bodies against free radicals, toxic chemicals, and environmental pollutants that can cause us damage. Protecting our skin is just as important in order to maintain a healthy and vibrant skin.

The human skin is only a few millimeters thick, but it is by far the largest organ in the body. It is the first line of defense against harmful bacteria that are in the environment. It also regulates our temperature, protects us against UV rays, prevents dehydration, and allows the elimination of waste through the pores. Human skin works hard to protect our immune system to help keep us strong and healthy.

The NeoGenesis line of skincare products helps protect and maintain the skin barrier and its sub-epidermal layers. The skin is part of the larger Integumentary System. This system performs vital functions, one of the most important being protection from the external environment. To help maintain the skin barrier, Barrier Renewal Cream is a favourite of both skin professionals and clients.

BARRIER RENEWAL CREAM

So, what makes Barrier Renewal Cream such a consumer favourite? This moisturiser is a lightweight, deeply

hydrating cream that is beneficial for all skin types, including acneic and barrier-impaired skin. It was formulated to help strengthen the skin barrier to improve skin function. Skin is renewed through daily use. It is an unscented and non-greasy formula that may be used on dry, sensitive, or irritated skin.

Barrier creams are different from other common moisturisers in specific ways. Lipids are a natural part of the cell membrane that is critical in helping the skin to maintain its protective barrier functions. Lipids play a key role in maintaining the smoothness and firmness of the skin. This barrier cream facilitates the natural and restorative effects on the stratum corneum (the top layer of the skin barrier) by supplying all necessary lipid types, such as keratinocytes, cholesterol-free fatty acids, and ceramides for optimal health.

Lipids get depleted with ageing and in drier and colder climates. To truly renew the skin’s barrier, three important lipids must be included in the formulation. These are free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides in the correct percentages. These key lipids are in NeoGenesis Barrier Renewal Cream allowing the skin to function optimally.

These vital ingredients are necessary for the correct function of the skin. Barrier Renewal Cream is also oncology friendly and suited for those with compromised skin. NeoGenesis is committed to helping those who have received oncology-related treatments, such as chemotherapy, radiation, or surgery and who need support in delivering necessary nutrients to the skin. Designed to be effective yet gentle, this cream can be used after aggressive professional treatments such as lasers, peels, and microneedling to soothe and hydrate the skin. APJ

Contact Information:

Borka Buseska: Appointed NeoGenesis Australian Distribution Centre, Managed by the Australian Capital Training Institute (ACTI).

Contact: 1300 799 415 | Email: Borka@ctitraining.com.au

To place an order: Borka Buseska: 1300 799 415 | E: Borka@actitraining.com.au

Education Consultant: Gay Wardle: 041 8708 455 | E: education@gaywardle.com

BARRIER RENEWAL CREAM

NeoGenesis Barrier Renewal Cream is a staple in protecting your skin from environmental particles and improving the skin’s barrier function. Loaded with cholesterol, free fatty acids, and ceramides needed for a healthy skin barrier, this moisturiser is formulated to include lipids to maintain skin firmness and hydration.

Lightweight and deeply hydrating, this unscented cream is perfect for helping chronic skin conditions like eczema or acne and for post-treatment care of professional treatments like laser and microneedling. Layer on top of other moisturisers for added hydration. Safe for use on all skin types.

MODERN SCIENCE FOR THE SKIN

THE POWER OF Stem Cell Released Molcules

An interview with Dr Greg Maguire

Stem cells are the body’s master raw materials – cells from which all other cells with specialised functions are generated. Stem cells are used extensive in medicine for the treatment of certain cancers and autoimmune diseases.

In recent years human stem cells have also been introduced within skincare. However, depending on where they are sourced within the body, they can also carry potential risk.

With ongoing research for improved methods in using stem cells, now a new patented technology known as S2RM® has identified a novel way of supporting the skin’s natural stem cell proliferation, without the potential risks. To explain this technology, we interviewed Dr Greg Maguire as he explains what stem cell released molecules (S2RM®) are and how they can provide effective skin repair and rejuvenation.

Dr. Greg Maguire, Ph.D., is a former professor of neuroscience at the University of California, San Diego, a Fulbright-Fogarty Fellow at the National Institutes of Health, USA, is a scientist, innovator, teacher, healthcare professional. He has over 100 publications and numerous patents. His book, “Adult Stem Cell Released Molecules: A Paradigm Shift To Systems Therapeutics” was published by Nova Science Publishers (NY) in 2018.

Dr Maguire is co-founder of NeoGenesis Inc, a skincare and therapeutics company headquartered in San Diego, CA, USA.

APJ Q1: DR MAGUIRE, WHAT ARE STEM CELL RELEASE MOLECULES AND HOW DO THEY DIFFER FROM TISSUE SPECIFIC STEM CELLS DERIVED FROM THE SKIN?

Stem cell released molecules are the collection of molecules released from stem cells. Mostly, this is a collection of hundreds of different types of proteins that serve the skin by providing:

1. Building block proteins, such as collagen and laminin

2. Antioxidant proteins such as superoxide dismutase and catalase 3. Heat shock proteins to protect and repair other proteins 4. Proteosomes to repair and recycle proteins 5. Cytokines to modulate the innate and adaptive immune systems from an inflammatory to an anti-inflammatory and pro-repair state.

In 2013, I published a paper entitled, “Stem cell therapy without the cells,” to highlight the importance of the molecules released from the stem cells in much of the maintenance and repair of our tissues. I pointed out that because the molecules, not the cells, do most of the work, the molecules could be used alone as the therapeutic.

APJ 2: CAN YOU PLEASE EXPLAIN TO US HOW THE PATENTED S2RM ® TECHNOLOGY WORKS IN REPAIRING DAMAGED SKIN SUCH AS RADIATION BURNS?

The patented S2RM technology means picking out the optimal phenotype of a given stem cell classification, e.g., mesenchymal stem cell (MSC), and then, given we use multiple types of stem cells for making a therapeutic, choosing the optimal combination of these different phenotypes used in the therapeutic.

Each stem cell type, for example a mesenchymal stem cell, even

though it may have a similar genotype as another MSC based on its location in the body, hence its microenvironment will have a very different phenotype from its fellow genotype.

For instance, a MSC from bone marrow resides in a microenvironment where recirculated cancer cells and inflammatory T-cells can condition the MSC into a proinflammatory and pro-oncogenic phenotype.

However, MSCs from the skin do not reside in a microenvironment where cells are recirculated, and therefore remain in an anti-inflammatory and pro-repair state. Therefore, if the phenotypes are correctly chosen, then the aforementioned five types of functions I described in the previous question will be used to repair the skin from radiation dermatitis.

As an example, some of the proteins (such as collagen) in the skin are long-lived, they remain in your body for decades without turnover, and these proteins are susceptible to damage from irradiation.

Those five factors that I described can be used to repair the protein, and those proteins that can’t be repaired will be removed for amino acid recycling by the proteosomes.

APJ Q3: IN TERMS OF ANTI-AGEING, WHERE THE SKIN IS INTACT, HOW DOES THE PATENTED S2RM ® TECHNOLOGY WORK FOR SKIN REJUVENATION?

Intrinsic ageing through continuous cell turnover and through extrinsic factors such as overexposure to the sun and poor diet, can lead to cellular damage and damage to the acellular matrix.

The S2RM technology can not only reset the immune system to a pro-repair state and reduce inflammation that is damaging the

skin, but it can also help to rebuild the stem cell niche for the endogenous stem cells resident in the skin, thus enabling the stem cells in your skin to work more efficiently and better maintain and rebuild the skin.

APJ 4: IN CASES OF RADIATION THERAPY CAN THE S2RM ® TECHNOLOGY BE USED PRE-RADIATION TO HELP SUPPORT THE SKIN BY MINIMISING ANY TRAUMA THAT MAY OCCUR DURING RADIATION?

Yes, irradiation of the skin will cause oxidative damage and generate a highly inflammatory state in the skin. Applying the S2RM technology before the radiation treatment begins will help to minimise the oxidative damage given the antioxidants present in the S2RM. It will also help to minimise inflammation, while providing a rich array of cytokines to bias the immune system to a pro-repair state.

Untilising S2RM technology will bolster the quantity and quality of stem cell released molecules in the skin - molecules that are normally present when the skin is young and healthy, but which diminish both in quantity and quality as we age and/or become less healthy, such as with damage incurred from irradiation. Introducing S2RM technology will both minimise the damage, while maximising recovery. APJ

The use of this technology is now available in Australia though the NeoGenesis skincare products. See pages 44-45 for further details

The S2RM technology can not only reset the immune system to a pro-repair state and reduce inflammation that is damaging the skin, but it can also help to rebuild the stem cell niche for the endogenous stem cells that are resident in the skin. This enabling the stem cells in your skin to work more efficiently and better maintain and rebuild the skin.

MONKEYPOX (MPX)

New Viral Infection

Professor Terry Everitt

As we enter the recovery phase from the devastating period of COVID-19, a new threat has been detected in many parts of the world known as Monkeypox. Terry Everitt guides us through some basics of what we need to know about this new viral threat to our health.

As a viral infectious condition, Monkeypox is primarily diagnosed from the skin manifestations. However, do not think it only affects a small group of people – while not as transmissible as SARs, it already is in the World Health Organizations’ top three health concerns.

While we try to have SARS-CoV-2 and the COVID-19 pandemic has a distant memory, with over 559 million cases and over 6 million deaths, it is still very much around. But, we have another viral infection quickly upon us. Monkeypox is a zoonotic (transferred from animal to human) systemic disease caused by the monkeypox virus, which belongs to the Orthopoxvirus genus of the Poxviridae family, closely related to smallpox, which has killed over 500 million people (Chavda et al., 2022).

Did you know there are over 887 zoonotic viruses for spill over potential to humans, with Monkeypox ranking 24 (Bryer, Freeman & Rosenbach, 2022).

Monkeypox is not new, being isolated and named in Copenhagen’s State Serum Institute laboratory in 1958 and was first identified in humans in 1970 in the Democratic Republic of Congo, where the current infection appears to be from, quickly spreading throughout the world in May 2022.

The World Health Organisation (WHO) has declared Monkeypox as one of three global health emergencies, along with COVID-19 and polio (Srivastava & Srivastava, 2022).

Distribution of MPXV cases worldwide on May 26, 2022. Image from Shaheen et al., 2022, p. 2). The global incidence of the viral disease has surpassed 73,000 over 90 countries, with the USA declaring Monkeypox a public health emergency with more than 8934 cases as of August 11, 2022 (Chavda et al., 2022).

The monkeypox virus is an enveloped, double-stranded DNA virus comprising of two genetic clades: The central African (Congo Basin) clade and West African clade, with each significantly

differing in epidemiologic and clinical characteristics.

AUSTRALIAN SITUATION

As of November 4, 2022, there were 141 cases of MPX in Australia reported to the National Notifiable Diseases Surveillance System (NNDSS) by states and territories- 69 in Victoria, 55 in New South Wales, 7 in Western Australia, 5 in Queensland, 3 in the Australian Capital Territory, and 2 in South Australia (Australian Government Department of Health, 2022).

Monkeypox was first diagnosed in Australia by a Sydney General Practitioner in a male who developed a mild illness several days after arriving in Sydney. (The patient happened to be gay, so the media immediately confirmed it was a ‘gay’ infection, which is untrue and has been proven untrue by all health authorities as it is transmitted by skin contact, not sex).

The Victorian Department of Health later confirmed a case of Monkeypox in the state, discovered in a heterosexual man in his 30s who had recently returned from the UK.

On July 28, 2022, Australia’s Chief Medical Officer declared Monkeypox a Communicable Disease Incident of National Significance. Each state and territory health authority has information on websites regarding Monkeypox.

TRANSMISSION

Many animal species are susceptible to the Monkeypox virus, including rope squirrels, tree squirrels, Gambian pouched rats, dormice, and non-human primates. In Australia, the Monkeypox virus is known to be transmitted by physical contact with infected secretions or lesions. Interestingly, the infection can be via large respiratory droplets. Although droplets cannot travel more than a few feet, so prolonged face-to-face contact is essential for direct transmission. People with Monkeypox are infectious from the first symptoms until all the lesions have crusted, the scabs have fallen off, and a fresh layer of skin has formed underneath.

SKIN INFECTION PROGRESSION AND COMPLICATIONS

The symptoms of Monkeypox in humans are similar to those of smallpox, but milder. Monkeypox is usually a self-limiting disease;

however, newborns, children, and people with underlying immune deficiencies may be at risk of more severe illness and death.

After an incubation period of 4 to 21 days, averaging 7 to 14 days, illness often begins with a nonspecific prodrome, including 1 to 5 days of fever, chills, headache, fatigue, sore throat, myalgia (muscle aches and pain), and lymphadenopathy (lymph node swelling).

Typically, within 1 to 5 days from fever onset, a rash evolves and resolves over a 2 to 4-week period of time. First, the rash appears as macules (1-2 days), then develops into papules (1-2 days), followed by vesicles (1-2 days), and ultimately pea-sized, hard pustules (5-7 days) before crusting, scabbing, and eventually falling off (7-14 days) Alakunle, Moens, Nchinda, & Okeke, 2020).

The Monkeypox lesion through its various stages: (a) early vesicle, (b) small pustule (2mm), (c) umbilicated pustule (3-4mm), (d) ulcerated lesion (5mm), (e) crusting of a mature lesion, (f) partially removed scab.

In almost all cases, lesions first appear in the mucosa (mouth and genitals) and/ or face, then appear on the hands and feet, followed by the trunk. The principal differential diagnosis is smallpox.

Complications include secondary infections, pneumonia, sepsis, encephalitis, and corneal infection (Bryer, Freeman, & Rosenbach, 2022). The more significant concern is a high risk of possible severe congenital disease, pregnancy loss, and maternal morbidity and mortality from orthopoxvirus infections (Dashraath et al., 2022). However, this is considered extremely rare in Australia due to the health care system in place.

For more information on pregnancy and Monkeypox, I draw your attention to the study by D’Antonio et al. (2022), Monkeypox infection in pregnancy: a systematic review and meta-analysis. DOI: 10.1016/j.ajogmf.2022.100747

CAN MONKEYPOX SPREAD THROUGH CONTAMINATED FOOD?

So that you know, researchers from France performed a qualitative risk assessment to determine the probability of Monkeypox transmission through food handling and consumption. The results reported no significant association between monkeypox virus transmission and the consumption of contaminated food. However, good hygiene practices, isolation measures, adequate cooking time, and effective heat treatments should be practised in situations involving individuals with confirmed Monkeypox (Chaix et al., 2022).

CLINICAL CARE AND INFECTION PREVENTION

Monkeypox virus is a self-limited disease that needs several weeks for recovery. The most important preventive measure is to avoid close contact with infected individuals and isolate them.

In clinical care, careful adherence to infection control is vital, and the correct identification of any lesion that you think you may express – not all lesions may be acne lesions, nor could be hit with plasma pens, as examples.

Wearing gloves, masks and gowns are always advised, if not mandatory.

Clothing, bedding, towels, or objects contaminated with the virus from an infected person can also infect others.

Hand hygiene with soap and water or an alcohol-based hand rub is always needed. Particularly after contact with infected people and their clothes, bed sheets, towels, and other items or surfaces they have touched or that might have encountered their rash or respiratory secretions (Lai et al., 2022).

One should be especially mindful of activities that could resuspend dried material from lesions, such as fans, surface wiping and sweeping. Dried material from smallpox lesions can remain infectious for many years, although it is unknown if this is true for Monkeypox.

If you consider this is not so important, I refer you to a study where researchers found 93% of air and surface sampling for the monkeypox virus to be contaminated with the virus, with two samples showing the presence of replication-competent viruses. While this was in a hospital setting, it does show the infection possibility. Gould et al. (2022), Air and surface sampling for monkeypox virus in a UK hospital: an observational study. The Lancet Microbe. doi: https://doi.org/10.1016/s26665247(22)00257-9

VACCINES

An interesting situation in Australia is that two vaccines are available; however, ACAM2000™, approved by the TGA, is not recommended for most people. The preferred vaccine, JYNNEOS®, TGA has not approved at this time, but it has been made available under an exemption provided by section 18A of the Therapeutic Goods Act 1989, which ensures that vaccines are available urgently to deal with a threat to public health.

JYNNEOS® has a higher safety profile and is easier to administer, given in 2 doses, at least 28 days apart, subcutaneously or intradermally. JYNNEOS® is a modified vaccinia Ankara strain vaccine (MVA-BN) that contains a virus that has been altered so it cannot multiply in the human body.

While approved by TGA, ACAM2000™ is a live-attenuated smallpox vaccine that is also effective against MPX. Not suitable for many individuals and comes with many possible side effects, so it cannot be used for pregnant and breastfeeding women or those with HIV. Additionally, ACAM2000 vaccine is associated with a rare risk of myocarditis (inflammation of the heart muscle) and pericarditis (inflammation of the heart’s lining). The risk is highest in young adults, particularly males.

Neither vaccine is available to the general public at this time – only to those with heightened risk factors. (Australian Government Department of Health, MPX Vaccines 2022). It is hoped that in 2023, there will be sufficient vaccines available for all to have, if required.

CONCLUSION

The current monkeypox outbreak has become a new threat during the continuing COVID-19 pandemic, yet the COVID-19 situation has prepared infection control and prevention measures to contain the recent monkeypox outbreak.

While policies exist, such as early identification of cases, restrictions according to the risk of infection, tracing of contacts, isolation and quarantine measures, along with avoidance of information from social media, as we found with COVID-19, it is the individual response that is most important. If the appropriate preventive measures are adopted in the early stages of this disease’s spread, there is little likelihood that this will develop into the next global pandemic; the rapid increase in the number of Monkeypox cases over the past month has caused alarm around the globe.

Remember, before May 2022, Monkeypox was almost unknown in most of the world. APJ

References: for a full list of the references please contact info@apanetwork.com

HYPERPIGMENTATION

Minimising the risks with laser resurfacing and phenol peels

Dr Tiina Meder

Over the past decade, laser treatments in aesthetic medicine are increasingly growing in popularity, and this trend is likely to persist. Laser can be used for a variety of purposes, from acne therapy to scar and skin tag removal, as controlled epidermal injury plays a significant part in the practice of aesthetic medicine.

According to numerous research studies, the risk of side effects and complications resulting from aesthetic laser treatments is considered low. However, certain side effects, usually classified as insignificant, cause noticeable discomfort, and can lead to the patients’ dissatisfaction with the treatment effect, even when the results are satisfactory from an objective point of view.

Among such side effects is pigmentation disturbance caused by epidermal injury and the development of inflammatory changes in the tissue, which may occur during the process of post-laser recovery.

As we are approaching the summer months the risk of pigmentation will substantially increase, so it is even more important that we minimise the risk of pigmentation post these treatments? And now, there is now evidence that we can support the skin through validated topicals that help prevent or minimise the risk of pigmentation. In this article I am presenting a summary of the results of a study that explored the efficacy of specific topical ingredients in minimising the risk of hyperpigmentation post laser resurfacing and phenol peels.

INTRODUCTION

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is one of the most described side effects of laser treatments. Various research data show that the rate of PIH after non-ablative fractional laser treatment was noted as reaching:

• 31% for melasma therapy

• 25% for antiaging correction

• 41% for post-acne scarring removal.

Ablative laser treatment carries an even higher degree of risk:

• Up to 80% of PIH with CO2 laser

• And 60% with ErYAG.

Studies confirm that the power of laser impact correlates with the risk of post-treatment pigmentation. For this reason, patients with already present melasma need to be informed that laser

therapy, including non-ablative laser, may increase pigmentation after a single treatment. Thus, PIH prevention must be one of the priorities in the patients’ preparation for laser treatment.

Prophylactic measures are recommended for at least 14-18 days prior to treatment if risk factors are identified. These include:

• Melasma

• PIH manifestation in the past

• The use of photosensitising skincare in the previous few weeks

• Photosensitising drug use.

Today the standard for PIH prevention is applying topical solutions with confirmed anti-tyrosinase activity. Most used are solutions based on kojic acid, azelaic acid, arbutin and hydroquinone (the latter often used in combination with tretinoin and topical steroids). While in the past hydroquinone-containing solutions were used, these are now banned in the EU and restricted use in Canada, however within Australia hydroquinone is classified as a Schedule 4 drug under the Poisons Standards and can be used by medical prescription only.

Apart from these, the daily use of sunscreens with SPF UVA UVB 30–50 is routinely recommended to laser patients. Most of the above, with the exception of sunscreens, actually increase the skin’s sensitivity to ultraviolet, exposing patients to the risk of PIH in the recovery period after laser or other treatment involving epidermal injury.

RESEARCH AIM

The aim of this study was to explore the possibilities and prospects of PIH prevention by using a topical solution. Candidate who participated were given a topical solution with brightening and anti-inflammatory effects that also protected their skin from sensitivity to UV radiation.

METHOD

The research was conducted in several clinics. 54 women aged 25–52 participated in the research. Participants were selected to the following criteria:

• Good general health at the time of research

• Lack of pigmentation

• Fitzpatrick skin phototype II and III

• Regular menstruation

• Had not previously undergone ablative CO2 or erbium laser treatments, no medium depth, or deep chemical peels

• No photosensitising topical solutions used in the previous four weeks

• No potentially photosensitising medicine taken in the previous 4 weeks

• No skin inflammation at the time of treatment

All patients signed informed consent forms and the research aims and methods were explained to them in full.

Candidates were divided into two groups of 25 and 29 people. In the first group, all candidates received fractional ablative Erbium laser resurfacing. Fifteen candidates were given a topical solution to use in the 14 days prior their laser treatment, and then resume application on the 5th day after the treatment and continue for 30 days. The control group of 10 candidates did not use topical solutions in the pre and post-treatment periods.

The second group of 29 candidates had a 35% phenol peel. Twenty candidates were given a topical solution to use in the 14 days prior their chemical peel, and then resume application on the 5th day after the treatment and continue for 30 days.

The control group of 10 candidates did not use topical solutions in the pre, and post-peel periods. Neither group had any information about the composition, manufacturer, or price of their topical solution. The topical solution used in this study was a water solution of:

• blueberry leaf and berry extract (3.42%)

• cane sugar (1.5%)

• sweet orange extract (0.48%)

• citrus medica extract (0.48%)

• aloe barbadensis leaf juice (0.2%)

• Canadian maple juice (0.18%)

• niacinamide (0.5%)

The expected effects of the solution were:

• Stronger antioxidant protection of the skin

• Smoothing of epidermal keratinous layer

• Reduced activity of melanocyte-keratinocyte melanin transfer

• Decrease of melanin synthesis due to the deactivation of tyrosinase

• Restoration of capillary tone in the microcirculatory bed.

These effects were expected due to the synergetic impact of niacinamide and a complex of natural antioxidants in the citruses and blueberry extracts, combined with the effect of maple and sugar cane syrups’ polysaccharides, aloe and xanthan gum. The solution was formulated to create a protective film on the skin’s surface as well as creating a favourable condition for comfortable recovery. At the same time, the solution aimed to subdue inflammatory reactions, activate epidermal regeneration, and stimulate the syntheses of dermal structural elements.

The action of the ingredients in this solution were validated in previous studies. These were:

1. Niacinamide: Topical application of niacinamide has a whole range of confirmed effects on the skin. Applying niacinamidecontaining solutions for several weeks allows to reduce trans-

epidermal water loss (up to 24% in 4 weeks) by increasing the contents of free fatty acids (67%) and ceramides (34%) in the keratinous layer of the skin. The syntheses of epidermal proteins: keratin, filaggrin and involucrin is also known to increase. Together these proteins optimise the aggregation of keratinocytes in the keratinous layer, preserve the integrity of corneous envelopes of corneocytes and the smooth structure of the keratinous layer.

Studies of niacinamide effect on the human fibroblast culture has revealed the increased syntheses of new fibroblasts (20%) and collagen type I (54%). Niacinamide is widely used as a brightening agent, which is especially active during the therapy of post-traumatic, post-inflammatory and chronic recurring hyperpigmentation. The mechanics of niacinamide action is also confirmed to inhibit the melanocyte-tokeratinocyte transfer of pigment granules (melanosomes - up to 68% in vitro in the co-culture of melanocytes and keratinocytes). Niacinamide also acts in synergy with certain antioxidants, increasing the antioxidant effect and advancing all the results described above.

2. Blueberry extract: Studies confirm that blueberry extract contains specific anthocyanins and polyphenols also with antioxidant effect. They can reduce the damaging effect of oxidative stress, prevent the skin’s photodamage, especially when connected with UVB damage. Anthocyanins can absorb a wide spectrum of UV rays, helping reduce the skin’s sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation with daily use. Blueberry anthocyanins, in particular (cyanidin-3-glucoside, petunidin-3-glucoside, malvidin-3-glucoside, and delphinidin3-glucoside), can also prevent the overexpression of genes responsible for the synthesis of metal proteinase and the suppression of collagen synthesis by dermal fibroblasts.

3. Aloe Vera: Aloe barbadensis (aloe vera) juice extract contains over 75 active agents with pronounced biological effect. Polysaccharide glucomannan and gibberellin interact with the fibroblasts’ growth factor receptors and stimulate the proliferative activity of the cells leading to the activation of collagen synthesis. The topical application of aloe juice extract is known to increase the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and dermatan sulphate in the granulation tissue after an injury, as well as the increase of proliferation-promoting activity of dermal cells in general accelerating healing and oxygenation. Aloe juice extract has anti-inflammatory effect as well due to its ability to inhibit the cyclooxygenase pathway of inflammation and to reduce the activity of prostaglandin E2. It appears, that this effect of aloe extract is due to its contents of C-glycosyl chromone. Finally, aloe has a proven antioxidant effect thanks to glutathione peroxide superoxide dismutase and some phenol derivatives.

4. Cane Sugar Extract: Studies confirmed that natural flavonoids and phenolic acids are contained in cane sugar extract with pronounced antioxidant effect. The daily application of solutions with cane sugar extract helps reduce the negative effects of oxidative stress and UV-related damage in various skin structures.

5. Maple: The maple (Acer rubrum) is a rich source of phenolic compounds which possess galloyl groups. These glucitol-core containing gallotannins (GCGs) have reported antioxidant and anti-glycative effects. Anti-tyrosinase and anti-melanogenic effects are also achieved from the phenolic-enriched red maple leaves extract. Studies confirm that these extracts are able to:

• Reduce the levels of reactive oxygen species

• Down-regulate the expression of MITF, TYR, TRP-1, and TRP2 gene levels in a time-dependent manner

• Significantly reduce protein expression of the TRP-2 gene.

The anti-melanogenic effects of red maple GCGs is supported by studies in helping reduce a risk of PIH.

6. Citrus medica extract: Citrus medica extract is a source of natural ascorbic acid with different flavonoids, including nobiletin, hesperidin et al. This extract helps smooth and brighten the skin due to its tyrosinase inhibition effect, preventing inflammatory reaction and accelerating the healing process after an injury.

7. Sweet orange extract (Citrus Aurantium extract): Sweet orange contains a range of low-molecular substances with anti-inflammatory and capillary-strengthening effects, as well as a capacity for tyrosinase inhibition (TI) and pigment inhibition.

STUDY RESULTS

100% of patients in both groups noted good tolerability of the solution, ease of application and lack of pronounced subjective sensations during the application, both in pre, and post-treatment (phenol peel and fractional ablative Erbium laser resurfacing) periods.

Neither group has shown any side effects potentially connected to the use of the solution.

In group 1, amongst the candidates who used the solution, there were no cases of PIH, whereas in the control group 1 case of PIH was diagnosed and the candidates received additional therapy to correct hyperpigmentation.

The rate of shedding the crusts among the candidates who used the solution was 3–4 days, while in the control group it was 5–7 days.

Group 2 displayed similar results. Among the candidates who used the solution there were no cases of PIH, while in the control group 1 case of PIH was diagnosed with additional therapy prescribed. The rate of crust shedding was 3–4 days for the candidates who used the solution, and 5–7 days for the candidates in the control group. The data is summed up in Table 1 below:

Method Number of Rate of PIH (%) Rate of crust patients shedding (days)

35% phenol 20 0 3-4 peeling, with the solution

35% phenol 9 11 5-7 peeling, control group

Ablative Erbium 15 0 3-4 laser resurfacing, with the solution

Ablative Erbium 10 10 5-7 laser resurfacing. Control group

CONCLUSION

The results of this study support the benefit of topically applied solution based on plant extracts and niacinamide in preparing the skin pre-laser or deep peel use, as well as for post-treatment recovery and in reducing the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

A shorter recovery period and a reduced possibility of the most common side effect increases the candidates’ satisfaction, minimised their isolation time during the recovery phase and made the recovery phase more comfortable. Additionally, good tolerability and lack of contraindications made the solution suitable for preparation and recovery after laser treatments and chemical peels combined with sun protection. APJ

Study researchers:

Egor V. Kolodtchenko MD (Koherent Clinic, Ukraine), Anna G. Funikova MD (Academy of Health Clinic, Ukraine), Tiina Meder MD (Meder Beauty International, UK)

Disclosure: For the purposes of this research, 100 bottles of Meder Beauty Science Nrj-Soin Serum were provided. The packaging was 50 ml airless bottles, unmarked. The serum was provided by Meder Beauty International Ltd (United Kingdom). The research participants were not rewarded. The clinical professionals, who participated in the research, did not receive any grants, rewards, payments or any other compensation, material or otherwise. This article was written without any sponsor support from the manufacturing company.

MEDER BEAUTY SCIENCE

Award winning Innovative Antioxidant Serums

When it comes effective skin protection, supportive antioxidant ingredients play an important role. At Meder we recommend our antioxidant serums as a key step in the skin’s daily care, especially during the hotter summer months when the skin experiences extra stress.

OXIDATIVE STRESS AND FREE RADICALS

As we know, free radicals are highly reactive and unstable molecules constantly in search of replacing the missing unpaired electron. They steal electrons from healthy stable molecules transforming them to free radicals starting a chain reaction and repeating the process that can destroy living cells in the area. When it comes to the skin there are two key stressors:

• Intrinsic Oxidative Stress – although free radicals can help to maintain good cellular balance, with age they damage skin more intensely. The damage of skin structure leads to the appearance of wrinkles, pigment spots, loss of elasticity, skin dryness and irritation.

• Extrinsic Factors – Ultraviolet rays and air pollution are the main triggers of oxidative stress, and these also contribute to premature ageing.

THE POWER OF ANTIOXIDANTS IN NATURE

Antioxidants protect the skin by neutralising free radicals. Studies confirm they are also present in several colourful plant extracts, as their pigments protect them from harmful UV rays. Think colourful red pigment lycopene found in tomato, or the blue pigment anthocyanin found in blueberries. Using antioxidant serums can help repair skin damage and prevent premature ageing. The skin’s resources are freed up for other necessary skin functions such as collagen synthesis for example.

MEDER ANTIOXIDANT SERUMS

Meder antioxidant serums are for all skin types and are formulated to provide maximum protection even for compromised skin conditions. These serums are favoured by skin practitioners as a revitalising and brightening serum. They are also effective in preventing unwanted pigmentation after laser treatments, chemical peels and IPL treatments. There are two to choose from:

• Nrj-Soin Serum - a stimulating, energy serum for all skin types

• Soin-Apax Serum - best suited for sensitive skin

Revitalising and brightening Meder Nrj-Soin Serum is an antioxidant cocktail with rejuvenating and stimulating effect that also contains niacinamide. Its powerful brightening and stimulating effects are highly beneficial objectives in skin treatments. This lightweight serum is made of sugar cane extract which moisturises the skin and helps it retain water. Blueberry extract to strengthen capillaries and even skin tone. Aloe vera extract soothes the skin, suppresses inflammation, and helps protect the skin from UV damage and free radicals. Citrus medica extract boosts skin radiance with a large dose of vitamin C and anti-glycation/anti-age antioxidants. Sweet orange extract detoxifies congested skin, reduces puffiness, and helps regenerate damaged skin, especially in cases of acne.

Sensitive skin types can use Meder Soin-Apax Serum that contains a large dose of Centella Asiatic extract with its powerful soothing and anti-inflammatory effect. Centella asiatica is known as the gold standard of CICA treatments reducing skin sensitivity and accelerating healing after all aesthetic treatments. CICA products are especially useful to have on-hand after skin treatments such as chemical peel, IPL treatment or in-between retinol applications. Soin-Apax Serum has a light gel texture and is soothing and easy to apply on the skin including around the eyes. With regular use this serum can make the skin firmer and more elastic by boosting collagen production and suppressing irritation.

WINNER OF THE 2022 ATTRACTA ABEAUTY AWARDS

This year Meder Njr-Soin was honoured to take out the 2022 Attracta Beauty Awards in London, meeting the judges’ criteria as a leading innovative skincare formulation and validating why it is considered as an essential part of the Meder skincare routines.

These serums support capillary blood flow, restore and maintain skin health and provide antioxidant protection. They also moisturise, soften and smooth the skin, preparing it for the application of active concentrates and creams, which are all important considerations when it comes to product delivery and results. APJ 0466 338 844| admin@mederbeautyscience.com.au | mederbeautyscience.com.au

VITA-SOL

ULTIMATE OMEGA PLUS FOR SKIN

The

Ultimate Skin Pill

that all the Skin Experts are talking about...

This brand-new cutting-edge omega supplement sold out within days of launching. We ask founder Fiona Tuck what makes this supplement so special.

We are pedantic about quality at VITASOL especially when it comes to fish oil as some fish oil supplements may contain lipid peroxides (oxidised oil) which can do potentially more harm than good. This is something we take very seriously at VITA-SOL and something that I am very passionate about says Fiona.

Our ultra-omega plus is not like a regular fish oil as it has been specifically formulated for skin health and has the addition of astaxanthin and sea buckthorn making it a unique and highly effective capsule for skin health. This allows us to make permitted TGA skin claims that many other fish oils are not permitted to make such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, skin hydration, skin integrity and skin elasticity.

Permitted TGA claims can be checked via the TGA website, simply type in the name of the supplement that you are using, and the permitted claims will come up under the summary document. This ensures that you are not advertising a product for skin benefits

without permitted skin claims which comes with associated risks such as hefty fines. Ensuring our VITA-SOL stockists stay within scope of practice and TGA guidelines is very important to us.

We use traceable ingredients and manufacturing processes and use the purest quality fish oil available sourced from wild caught small fish (sardines, anchovies, and mackerel) from Norway. We do not use large fish which are more prone to heavy metal accumulation. The fish oil is sustainably sourced, third party independently certified by IFFO and FOS (Friends of the Sea) certified. IFFO is the leading global standard in the certification of marine ingredients.

We use molecular distillation extraction processes to maintain efficacy and freshness of the fish oil and all our products are strictly heavy metal and stability tested. The molecular distillation used ensures impurities such as heavy metals, saturated fats, dioxins etc are removed. Molecular distillation is gentle and performed in a vacuum to further reduce heat requirement to ensure a stable and purified oil. It is the gold standard extraction method for quality fish oil. Not only does our Ultra Omega Plus for Skin contain EPA/DHA fish triglycerides, the highest quality, most absorbable fish oil form, we have combined Sea buckthorn and Astaxanthin for additional plant omegas, polyphenol, carotenoid, and antioxidant benefits giving our capsules additional efficacy and anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, skin hydration and elasticity skin benefits. This also means that mega dosing is not required as is often the case with regular fish oil to achieve a potent anti-inflammatory effect. Being champions for quality and transparency, we do not use any artificial flavours, colours, or iron oxides in our capsules. The deep red colour comes from the natural astaxanthin and sea buckthorn which is where the antioxidant and polyphenol goodness comes from.

VITA-SOL products are proudly Australian and available via professional skin clinics. We are not available from pharmacies, department or health food stores making them a highly sought after professionally prescribed skin supplement. APJ

The daily dose of three capsules provides 1800mg fish triglycerides (the superior form) EPA/ DHA, 6mg Astaxanthin and 300mg of Sea buckthorn. RRP $69. For more information visit www.VITA-SOL.COM

RED LIPSTICK

Its Symbolsim And Political History

Tina Viney

I have often been fascinated by red lipstick and there is no doubt that I am not alone. So, I decided to investigate its history and I found the exercise quite intriguing. Who would have thought that a simple, somewhat frivolous little item like a red lipstick could impact the world and even have an interesting history all of its own. So let me share with you some amazing information that I discovered.

In studying trends, each season fashion houses will launch a new look in an attempt to stimulate consumer engagement and increase sales. When it comes to lipsticks, at various seasons, colours may change in hue and tone. They may move from nudes, natural, gloss or matt, to earthy tones, or pinksbut regardless of what the trend may be, there will always be one red lipstick that will hold its own and remain in vogue.

Why?

Because no other colour can compete with the statement that only red can make, and for that reason it manages to always emerge in every season.

Often the symbol of boldness, dare and rebellion there is no doubt that red lipstick leads the way as attracting attention.

Red is one of the most fascinating colours with intriguing symbolism and associations. It is usually linked to strong emotions, such as love, desire, and anger. From red hair to the red carpet in events, it is a colour that is regarded as a headturner due to its warm, bright hues.

Red is a primary colour so it can stand alone to represents passion, warmth, and sexuality, but it is also known as a colour that stands for danger, violence, and aggression. Red sits between violet and orange on the colour wheel. It can be modified through the addition of yellow to reflect warmth, or blue to give it a cooler tone and even depth. However, just on its own it has the power to create a bold statement.

THE POWER OF THE RED LIPSTICK

I would have to say that of all the facts about red lipstick the most intriguing is its political history.

World War II - 1940s

During WWII red lipstick became a sign of patriotism. Bright red lipstick roared back into fashion during the war for a surprising reason. Hitler reportedly hated red lipstick so American women painted their lips as a sign of resistance to Hitler’s supporters.

Women flooded the factories and the battlefields in the 1940s, wearing red lipstick as a sign of patriotism and bravery. In the US the Marines created a mandatory lipstick for female Marines called Montezuma Red. The red colour represented the America Flag and came to symbolise strength and courage. Following the end of World War II many women joined the workforce to support their families. Having lived through the austerity of the war years, most of them were emaciated due to malnourishment. When seeking employment, women who aimed to reflect a healthy look, turned to makeup – starting with well-shaped ruby red lips, a dash of red on the cheeks and smokey dark eyeshadow and eyeline to enhance sunken eyesall were used to camouflage their sallow and pale countenance.

THE SAFFRAGE MOVEMENT

The Suffrage Movement referred specifically to the seventytwo-year-long battle for woman’s right to vote in the United States. Rooted in the abolition of slavery, the movement promoted civic action among newly enfranchised women through organisations like the League of Women Voters and the National American Woman Suffrage Association. In the early 20th century, women supporting the suffrage movement went on a march. They went past the New York Salon of Elizabeth Arden. The owner of Elizabeth Arden was famous for being a supporter of women’s rights. At the time, she made herself aligned to the cause. She gave out bright red lipsticks to the women marching on the streets.

The suffrage leaders, at the time, loved red lipstick. They loved the colour for its power to shock men. This led the marchers and protesters to don the red colour. It was then that they adopted the red lipstick as a sign of rebellion and liberation. Red was perfect. In fact, nothing could be more perfect than the red lipstick -it was powerful, and it was the ideal symbol for a female.

THE SYMBOLISM OF RED

Red symbolises femininity. It also represents a powerful and daring woman. When men tried to strip women of these rights, women wore red lipstick to public events. In the past decades, red lipstick represented dubious and impolite. For some cultures, it may even represent a sexually immoral woman. But this is no longer the perception. There isn’t anything trashy about red lipsticks. In Hollywood, through many decades red lipstick was a symbol of glamour. Today, with its various formulations, it can be worn by woman of all ages either opaque or translucent for a softer look on less than perfect lips.

IS RED LIPSTICK CONSIDERED MORE ATTRACTIVE?

Would you believe it, there have been a few studies that investigated the impact that red lipstick has on attracting attention. During one study, researchers observed 50 men that viewed photos of women. These women were with lipstick on. Some photos were of women with red lipstick and pink lipstick. There were also a few photos of women with no lipstick at all.

The male respondents spent more time looking at women wearing red lipstick than those that don’t. Men spent an average of about 7.3 seconds staring at those with red lipstick. The male respondents stared an average of 6.7 seconds at the pink-lipped photos. And for those without lipstick, the men stared an average of 2.2 seconds.

In another study, it was also found that men tip 50% more than waitresses that wear red lipstick. The waitresses with brown, pink, and no lipstick were, in total, tipped about 30%. This is 20% lower than the waitresses who wore their lips red.

TIPS FOR WEARING RED LIPSTICK SUCCESSFULLY

Tip 1: If you are seeking for a sophisticated look, the first tip is don’t play up your eyes and your mouth at the same time. If you’re going to wear red lipstick, go light on the makeup. If you want to accentuate your face, aim for a smooth foundation and just add mascara.

Tip 2: Red lipstick can be unforgiving so take care of your lips. You exfoliate your skin to keep it youthful, the same applies to your lips. At least once a week you should be gently exfoliating and scrubbing off any dry bits on your lips, as well as stimulating circulation, then applying a moisturising lipstick or lip balm. Your toothbrush is all you need for lip exfoliation followed by a lip balm or a moisturising stick. Also, select lipsticks that contain nourishing ingredients such as wholesome oils such as avocado, castor seed oil, sesame seed oil and vitamin E.

Tip 3: The older you are, the creamier your lips should look. Unfortunately, our lips thin as we mature. So, if your lips are thinning avoid matte and gloss, stick with a creamier lipstick. Also, as lips age, avoid highly pigmented red lipstick in preference to a red lipstick with a medium pigment intensity and avoid dark red shades at all costs.

As the festive season is upon us, including lipstick as a musthave accessory within your offerings is a timely move, and don’t forget to include a selection of lovely reds

EXPERIENCE THE ClinicalPro Difference

If you are looking to upgrade your treatment outcome and your competitive advantage as a leading salon or clinic look no further than ClinicalPRO.

Renowned for their advanced cuttingedge technologies and their exceptional advanced training, ClinicalPro will provide you with the tools and protocols to confidently expand your current services and step up your treatment outcome to a new level.

For over 40 years, thousands of salons and clinics owe their success to the exceptional training they have received through the ClincalPRO Programs and Protocols supported by medical-grade devices that deliver fast, efficient, and enhanced treatment results allowing them to elevate their reputation in the market as leading practitioners.

NOT JUST A DISTRIBUTOR

In today’s competitive market just accessing high quality devices will not guarantee business growth. So many salons and clinics boast of having leading technologies, but do not possess the skills to utilize their equipment to their full potential - it takes comprehensive knowledge and training to achieve that.

Metro-Dora Clifford is a highly qualified, award-winning educator, who provides training at a comprehensive level. She will not just show you how to use your machine, additionally, she will teach you protocols and techniques, including how to maximise your treatment results through appropriate sequence of skincare and technology that are aligned with the specific needs of the skin condition you are treating. That in itself is professional development training.

“Our mission is to provide you with the knowledge, training and the tools required so you have the power to prosper,” Metro confirms.

“All our equipment are patented technologies that provide you with proven and guaranteed results,” Metro stresses, “this is because we operate with a true commitment to our mission statement - “Your success is our priority.”

SPECIAL OFFERS

As we approach the busiest season of the year, are you prepared to provide leading treatment result and to also position yourself for new client acquisition? Check out some amazing special offers of some of ClinicalPRO’s leading technologies and skincare:

SPECIAL CLINCIAL SKINCARE OFFER

If you are new to our Clinical Skincare, we are offering a 20% discount to new clients, so do take advantage by introducing a highly effective new range that can treat every skin condition. Experience the IMMEDIATE RESULTS of our six different Enzyme Peels. We assure you the results they deliver are unmatched by any other brand.

CLINICAL SKIN CLEAR SYSTEM for superficial lesion removal, comes with a five-year warranty from the USA: There will be another price increase in the new year, so if you wish to invest in this system at a later date, but would like to secure the 2022 price, you can do so with a $1000 deposit.

UTIMS HIFU WITH CENTRELESS CARTRIDGE is another option for those who are looking for cost-effective treatments that give instant results and are quick and painless. We currently have a Special Offer until 31/12/2022 with an extra handpiece at no extra cost.

NEW DOUBLO FOR HIFU AND RADIO

FREQUENCY (RF) is making a big comeback in the industry as a preferred technology. This amazing device is painless, and when used with the addition of non-invasive RF, it delivers excellent results when used together. Additionally, you can include an invasive RF fractional needling hand piece, which is extra. This can be purchased at a later date if you do not wish or include it in your initial purchase.

THE PICO HI 300 is still the best buy for Pico-second lasers in the industry as it comes with six hand pieces and no limit on the shot counts like other Pico-second lasers, so this makes it a better investment for the removal of pigmentation especially melasma plus all colours of tattoo removal and skin rejuvenation. With our fractional VMLA hand piece you can perform treatments at four different skin depths similar to HIFU, while also being able to treat scars, age spots and freckles, unlike a standard HIFU.

LASYA TRINITY 3-IN-1 WAVELENGTHS (ALEXANDRITE, DIODE & NG:YAG)

This laser is suitable for all skin types and hair colours and is now available at a very affordable price with a 20% off until January 31st, 2023. The price can be extended with a refundable $1000 deposit for those who wish to take advantage of this instead of an IPL system. We do have a Laser Diode with IPL for those who still want an IPL.

Monday and Tuesday training in various cities.

Let us help you grow your business.

ClinicalPRO | 1800 628 999 OR ask@clinicalpro.com.au clinicalpro.com.au

NUTRITION FOR BETTER SKIN AND HEALTH OMEGAS AND THE SKIN

Fiona Tuck

Essential fatty acids (EFAs) are a type of polyunsaturated fatty acid (PUFA) that cannot be synthesised in our bodies and must therefore be obtained from the diet. There are two classes of EFAs. These are Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids. Alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) is the parent compound of Omega 3 PUFAs, while Linoleic Acid (LA) is the parent compound of Omega 6 PUFAs. From these parent compounds, the body can synthesise longer chain derivatives that play important roles in the skin and in our general health and wellbeing.

EFAs include both omega-3 (alphalinolenic) and omega-6 (linoleic) fatty acids. They work together to create eicosanoids and prostaglandins, the hormone-like chemical messengers responsible for functions such as regulating blood pressure, oxygen delivery, gene expression and regulating pain and inflammation.

The primary function of omega fatty acids is to maintain healthy cell membrane function which is required to transport waste and nutrients (amino acids, hormones, minerals, vitamins and water) in and out of cells. The key Omega-3 fatty acids are: Alpha linoleic acid (ALA), Eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and Docosahexaenoic acid (DHA).

OMEGA-3 EFAs comprise less than 2% of total epidermal fatty acids. Whilst they do not appreciably accumulate in the skin, Omega 3 fatty acids, particularly EPA, play an important anti-inflammatory role. Dietary supplementation of EPA/DHA can enrich long chain Omega 3 fatty acids in the epidermis, thereby altering the fatty acid composition and eicosanoid content of the skin. Plant based ALA can be converted to EPA (predominantly found in oily fish) however the conversion of ALA to EPA and DHA in the body is very inefficient therefore a low intake of oily fish (less than 2 – 3 times per week) may put one at risk of inadequate intake of omega 3 and

supplementation may be required. The key Omega 6 fatty acids are: Linoleic acid (LA), Gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) and Arachidonic acid (AA).

OMEGA-6 is a major component of skin lipids and is important for ceramide production, skin barrier function, healthy sebum composition and wound healing. The presence of Linoleic Acid in the stratum corneum ceramides directly correlates with the health of the skin barrier. Ceramides are a special type of lipid known as a sphingolipids and comprise 40 to 50% of the lipids in the stratum corneum. GLA is a type of omega 6 that is not widely found in the diet. It plays a mainly antiinflammatory role in the skin and some studies suggest that it may be effective in reducing the symptoms of several inflammatory skin disorders including dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis, and acne as well as improving wound healing. A good quality omega skin supplement will include GLA for this reason. GLA rich oils include - Sea buckthorn, Evening Primrose (caution pregnancy and conception as may increase risk of miscarriage), Starflower and Hemp.

Whilst we need a good balance of omega 3 and 6 for healthy skin, in a typical western diet, omega 6s tend to be high due to processed foods, canola oil and other vegetable oils, margarine and spreads, Animal based products, high intake of full fat dairy and grain-fed meat.

ARACHIDONIC ACID (AA) is the second most abundant PUFA in the epidermis, accounting for approximately 9% of total epidermal fatty acids. It is a structural component of the phospholipids found in the epidermal keratinocyte membranes.

AA can be released from phospholipids by the enzyme phospholipase A2 and serves as the major source of epidermal eicosanoids, potent mediators of the inflammatory response. There is often confusion and misinformation about Omega 6 being inflammatory due to its involvement in the inflammatory and wound healing response. Consuming omega 6 rich foods does not automatically cause inflammation in the body. This would be like saying do not eat avocadoes, nuts and seeds because they contain omega 6 yet these are known anti-inflammatory foods. AA is the form of omega 6 predominantly required for wound healing and a healthy inflammatory response.

EPA (omega 3) and AA (omega 6) compete so if EPA is lacking in the diet AA can take an uninterrupted inflammatory pathway. Diets too high in LA and AA omega 6 and too low in EPA/DHA omega -3 fatty acids may lead to chronic inflammation. Increased amounts of LA slow down the metabolism of ALA to EPA and DHA by inhibiting desaturase enzymes which may also decrease with age. Omega 3 EPA is therefore required to put the brakes on the inflammatory pathways. This ensures we get a healthy inflammatory and wound healing response when required but not so much as to take the body into a chronic low grade inflammatory state.

Getting the balance of omega 3 and 6 is therefore extremely important as omega 6 is important for wound healing, however if we are not getting enough omega 3 it is possible that we shift in to a more proinflammatory state. Too much omega 3 however, if not balanced correctly with omega 6, could have the opposite effect and impair wound healing of the skin by inhibiting the inflammatory pathways. It is therefore important to have healthy intake of both omega 3 and 6 in the diet. A healthy ratio for omega 6s vs. 3s in our diet is thought to be 3:1 or less. APJ

TRUE 300PS PULSE DURATION

VARIETY OF

When your clients take the time to consult with you and you spend many hours working on their skin to get the best treatment outcomes, you want to ensure they are continuing that journey at home. To support you in this objective Dermatonics has curated the best combination of high-quality products for your clients to enhance their skin goals.

One of the key needs that our clinics have discussed with us is the need to ensure they were providing their clients with the best possible homecare products to support the results of their in-clinic treatments. This includes modalities such as dermal-needling, plasma fibroblast, laser treatments and even microdermabrasion and more. A key barrier for many clients is the large investment that may be required to take multiple products home for their aftercare.

To help provide a solution, Dermatonics has created a targeted homecare pack with smaller sized high-quality products that can support your clients through those 2-3 weeks post-treatment. This newest addition to our starter pack range is the Dermatonics Post Treatment Starter Pack.

Following many in-clinic treatments, you will need to be gentle on the skin, promote hydration, ensure that you are helping rebuild the skin barrier and promote tissue regeneration and wound healing, while also helping calm inflammation.

The Dermatonics Post Treatment Starter Pack is the perfect solutions to support your clients’ homecare journey.

It consists of:

Gentle Cream Cleanser: With a luxurious cream base, our cleanser is great at clearing the skin of daily impurities and light makeup. Excellent for delicate and sensitive skin, skin that tends to be dry, as well as post in-clinic treatments.

Face Serum with Peptide Technology: Our powerful age-defying serum contains unique matrix peptide technology and antioxidant-rich medicinal plant extracts, vitamins and amino acids. It assists in the remodelling of fine lines and wrinkles (especially those wrinkles associated with repeated facial movements) and helping prevent build-up of oxidative free radicals.

Dermatonics Curascar ® : Our natural scar therapy helps with the appearance of scars and is a great formula to assist with localised pigmentation associated with acne scars, age spots, sun damage and caring for the skin post in-clinic treatments. Packed with amazing natural active ingredients, this cream will help target those areas that have been treated in the clinic.

Beauty Elixir: Our beautiful moisturiser is a true multi-tasker. Beauty Elixir helps gently hydrate the skin as well as boosts antioxidants and collagen in the skin. It is ideal for those with more sensitive skin, or those with more dry or dehydrated skin.

Nourishing Face Oil: Another innovative product. Nourishing Face Oil is our highly nourishing face oil. It contains a Jojoba oil base and our unique Curcuma xanthorrhiza. It will help hydrate and soothe the skin and is an excellent hydration booster, truly soothing for post-treatment skin care. APJ

The DERMATONICS Post-Treatment Starter Pack is the true solution for your clients’ home care and a truly favourite with our clinic partners.

Contact Dermatonics 02 9188 8819 enquiries@dermatonics.com.au | www.dermatonics.com.au

Copper Peptide Calming Mist: This simple and effective mist is specifically formulated to help calm skin that is sensitive, prone to inflammation, or has recently been introduced to skin treatments. GHK is a tripeptide that occurs naturally in our body, has been extensively researched and demonstrated to assist with skin regeneration and wound healing.

WHY YOU SHOULD STOP FREEZING YOUR PATIENTS: Golden Tips for Better Injectable Outcomes

Dr Giulia D’Anna

Cosmetic injectable treatments are part of the full facial diagnosis and treatment plan and can really complete the result for your patients. The teeth and lips, skeletal structure and musculature of the patient all equally contribute to the result you can achieve for your patient. Whether we treat our patient superficially, or whether it be with chemical peels or dermal needling, we constantly assess the facial profile, to ensure that we have balance, symmetry and harmony in the results we achieve.

To finalise the aesthetic results and to complete our treatment plan, the use of botulinum toxin can be engaged to enhance the traditional cosmetic treatments that injectors employ for a great outcome. One of my favourite techniques to use in my practice is botulinum toxin for facial rebalancing.

WHAT IS FACIAL REBALANCING?

Our entire body is based on balance. To stand up, we engage certain key muscles in our core and legs, just as we engage different muscles to move our arms and so on. So, let’s look at the face. The same can be said of the face. We have muscles that balance each other so that we can have a neutral expression.

When we smile, we activate muscle to elevate the lips, raise our brows and eyes into a ‘happy’ expression and so on. This engagement of muscles is such that the elevators hold the balance, creating uplift and a pleasing expression. When we want to show that we are unhappy, we will engage a different set of muscles, so that the balance is held by depressor action.

NEWTON’S THIRD LAW

Newton’s third law applies here “For every action (force) in nature there is an equal and opposite reaction”. By using our knowledge

of elevators and depressors, we can selectively choose and then treat which muscles will hold the balance in our chosen area. This is a key decision-making process that I undertake when I treat my patients, and part of the treatment discussion.

I need my patient to understand that freezing one muscle completely for the sake of wrinkles and lines, will lead to the opposing muscle having the balance of muscle pull in the other direction. When we treat one muscle with Botulinum toxin type-A (BTX-A), the opposing muscle will take over. So, it is always important to consider the elevators and depressors of the face. There are two pivotal areas where this is extremely important, as we can change the facial contours by selecting where the balance of muscle pull lies. Namely these areas are the brows and lip regions.

FACIAL ANATOMY AND MUSCLE ACTION

Lines will run perpendicular to the muscle action. If a muscle pulls up, the lines with run across the face. If the muscle pulls laterally, the lines will run vertically on the face. So, when you look at the muscle action map, you can assess which muscles elevate, which muscles pull laterally or medially, and those that are depressors.

The only elevator of the upper face and eyebrows is the Frontalis muscle. So, what happens if a patient wants complete freezing of the frontal muscle? This means that the depressors will hold the balance of the brow position, making the brows heavy. This can create a downward pull and heaviness that is undesirable to the patient and the aesthetic outcome. Some of you might be thinking that you can overcome this by undertaking a toxin brow lift, but your efforts will be futile, as the muscle around the eye, the orbicularis oculi, pulls down under the brow. Adding toxin here will stop the muscle pulling down. So, the balance between

the frontal inaction, and the orbicularis oculi brow lift is neutral, or no action.

For a patient with heavy eyebrows, it would be important to under-treat the Frontalis, to avoid further creating heaviness in the brow, as the frontalis is the only muscle to lift the heavy brows. Too much relaxation will leave the patient unhappy as the orbicularis oculi muscle cannot lift the brows, and the heaviness will burden the patient. However, if we minimise our frontal doses so that there is still some movement, we can minimise forehead lines, whilst maximising the facial rebalancing of the muscles. Win-win.

Similarly, if we add too much relaxation in the central frontal

and medical evidence.

As with all other cosmetic medical, or dental treatments and techniques there are advances that occur, and the cosmetic practitioner needs to remain current with the updates.

Within Australia, there are three brands of botulinum toxin on the ARTG register. These are Botox (Allergan), Dysport (Galderma) and Xeomin (Merz). No matter which brand of toxin used, each brand will have a “halo” effect. This means that the toxin will have an effect on the surrounding muscle 1cm from the point of injection. So, this becomes important, particularly around the eyes where we should try and stay at least 1cm away from the orbital rim to

region, the so called ‘drop zone’, the frown will bulge and be heavy. Therefore, when we decide about dosing and freezing muscles, we are really deciding which muscle gets to hold the balance of function.

Now let’s look at the oral commissures and jawline. Again, we have elevators and depressor action. Generally, it is aesthetically pleasing if the elevators hold the predominant balance of action. If we are using the facial rebalancing technique, we would select the depressor muscles to treat, in order to improve the jawline and oral commissure position. This means we might add toxin doses to the Depressor Angulis oris, and if appropriate, the Platysma. By minimising their action, the jowl will lift, creating more definition of the jaw line, and the oral commissures may rise at rest. This is an aesthetically pleasing result for our patient.

When treating, we need to avoid accidentally dosing muscles that would create a functional change that would be detrimental to our patient. We need to leave the Depressor Labii Inferioris active, or the lip will be incompetent. Similarly, the Levator Labii Superiors Aqualae Nasalis (LLSAN) can be treated if the patient has a gummy smile, even though it is an elevator. Minimising the action of this elevator muscle would create a positive change for a patient with excess gum display.

GOLDEN TIPS FOR USE OF TOXIN

Great training is essential and remaining competent is absolutely necessary in any area of cosmetic medicine or skin treatments. Cosmetic injecting is no different. A single course is not adequate to have recency of practice and keep updated with your techniques. Always look for a course that is heavy on anatomy

avoid inadvertent treatment of the ocular muscles, resulting in blurred vision. This can be debilitating for the patient, and the source of a complaint.

HOW TO AVOID MANUAL SPREADING

Manual spreading of toxin can also occur. The patient should be asked to avoid leaning, touching or sleeping for four hours posttreatment. Rubbing the treatment area before this time may result in a changed result or the toxin being diffused to a muscle that was not targeted by the injection. I stress this many times with my patients as I am a skilled injector, and only wish for the best results for my patients.

To avoid the manual spreading of the botulinum toxin it is important that your patient does not undertake dental or facial treatments immediately after treatment. I would recommend deferring all facial and skin treatments for 14 days so that you can properly assess the work you have undertaken without interference. For example, if a patient undertakes skin tightening the day after your botulinum treatment, assessing the result of your work will be difficult. And what if there is an adverse outcome from the skin tightening, or in fact your treatment? How can you determine what treatment caused the problem? You may be able to, as you know what muscle relaxants do, but how can you explain this to the patient without appearing defensive? It is difficult. I would recommend delaying any other facial treatments until you have assessed the results of your treatment. APJ

If you would like to learn more about the use of Botulinum Toxin and Dermal Fillers, especially with the use of facial rebalancing and other cosmetic treatments, visit www.dermaldistinction.com.au

THE HORMONE THAT ORCHESTRATES Our Stress Response

Gay Wardle

If there is one hormone that we need to fully understand, it is CORTISOL. In this article Gay Wardle profiles this amazing hormone and presents the incredible role it plays in our overall heath, wound repair, ageing and skin health.

Cortisol is a glucocorticoid hormone that your adrenal glands produce and release and is a type of steroid hormone. Cortisol plays a vital role in suppressing inflammation in all of our bodily tissues and controls metabolism in muscles, fat, liver, and bones. Glucocorticoids have an impact on how we sleep as they affect our sleep-wake cycles. Cortisol is an essential hormone that affects almost every organ and tissue in your body.

It plays many important roles, which include:

Regulating your body’s stress response. Helping control your body’s use of fats, proteins and carbohydrates, or your metabolism.

• Suppressing inflammation.

• Regulating blood pressure.

• Regulating blood sugar.

• Helping control your sleep-wake cycle.

The body continuously monitors cortisol levels to maintain steady levels (homeostasis), if the levels are higher than normal or lower than normal, cortisol can be harmful to your health.

THE ROLE OF THE ADRENAL GLANDS

This all-important hormone is secreted by the adrenal glands. The adrenal glands are two small glands located just above the kidneys and are responsible for two important functions:

The outer part of the glands is called the adrenal cortex and produces steroid hormones cortisol, DHEA, aldosterone, and progesterone.

The inner area, the adrenal medulla, produces adrenalin and nor-adrenalin.

Although stress is not the only reason that cortisol is secreted into the bloodstream, it has been termed “the stress hormone” because it is secreted in higher levels during the body’s “fight or flight” response to stress, which creates the heart-pounding and nervousness that we feel.

While cortisol is an important part of the body’s response to stress, it is also important that the body has a relaxation response where it is able to return to normal following a stressful event. Unfortunately, in our current high-stress culture, the body’s stress response is activated so often that the body does not always have a chance to return to normal. If this continues there is a devasting result where the body is in a state of chronic stress.

High and prolonged levels of cortisol that are released into the bloodstream, have negative outcomes that cause inflammation. This leads to conditions such as:

If there is one hormone that we need to fully understand, it is CORTISOL. In this article Gay Wardle profiles this amazing hormone and presents the incredible role it plays in our overall heath, wound repair, ageing and skin health.

Cortisol is a glucocorticoid hormone that your adrenal glands produce and release and is a type of steroid hormone. Cortisol plays a vital role in suppressing inflammation in all of our bodily tissues and controls metabolism in muscles, fat, liver, and bones. Glucocorticoids have an impact on how we sleep as they affect our sleep-wake cycles. Cortisol is an essential hormone that affects almost every organ and tissue in your body.

It plays many important roles, which include: Regulating your body’s stress response. Helping control your body’s use of fats, proteins and carbohydrates, or your metabolism.

• Suppressing inflammation.

• Regulating blood pressure.

• Regulating blood sugar.

• Helping control your sleep-wake cycle.

The body continuously monitors cortisol levels to maintain steady levels (homeostasis), if the levels are higher than normal or lower than normal, cortisol can be harmful to your health.

THE ROLE OF THE ADRENAL GLANDS

This all-important hormone is secreted by the adrenal glands. The adrenal glands are two small glands located just above the kidneys and are responsible for two important functions:

The outer part of the glands is called the adrenal cortex and produces steroid hormones cortisol, DHEA, aldosterone, and progesterone.

The inner area, the adrenal medulla, produces adrenalin and nor-adrenalin.

Although stress is not the only reason that cortisol is secreted into the bloodstream, it has been termed “the stress hormone” because it is secreted in higher levels during the body’s “fight or flight” response to stress, which creates the heart-pounding and nervousness that we feel.

While cortisol is an important part of the body’s response to stress, it is also important that the body has a relaxation response where it is able to return to normal following a stressful event. Unfortunately, in our current high-stress culture, the body’s stress response is activated so often that the body does not always have a chance to return to normal. If this continues there is a devasting result where the body is in a state of chronic stress.

High and prolonged levels of cortisol that are released into the bloodstream, have negative outcomes that cause inflammation. This leads to conditions such as:

• Suppressed thyroid function

• Poor immunity

• Inflammation

• Poor wound repair

• Hyperglycemia

• Decrease in muscle tissue and bone density.

High levels of cortisol will also have an impact on the circulatory system and how the body metabolises protein, carbohydrates, and fats.

CORTISOL AND THE IMMUNE SYSTEM

High levels of cortisol have a very serious affect on the immune system. T-lymphocyte cells are an essential component of cell-mediated immunity, these T-cells respond to cytokine molecules which are called interleukins. This happens via a signaling pathway. High levels of cortisol will block these T-cells and prevents their proliferation, this then stops the T-cells from recognising interleukin signals. Add to this histamine secretion that is a vital part of the first stages of wound repair, and this will

increase the risk of infection and prolonging wound repair.

WEIGHT GAIN

People that are constantly dieting and restricting their intake of calories can in effect increase more production of cortisol. This is a response from the body when it is in starvation mode. The increased cortisol tends to make people want to eat more so most of the time the weight lost is gained back very quickly, which tends to happen with constant dieting.

It is important to recognise that chronic levels of cortisol put the body into a catabolic state where muscles deteriorate, and fat is stored around areas such as stomach and hips which does not help the state of mind of the person dieting.

DEPRESSION, MEMORY LOSS, AND MENTAL ILLNESS

It is true that elevated cortisol levels increase the risk of depression, memory loss and mental illness. The hippocampus, which is a region of the brain where memories are processed and stored contains many cortisol receptors. Excess cortisol disrupts the functioning of the hippocampus which in turn causes atrophy. Studies that have been conducted in senior people have shown those with high levels of cortisol display significant memory loss resulting from hippocampus damage.

HOW DOES CORTISOL AGE THE SKIN?

Studies have shown that excessive cortisol levels have been shown to decrease levels of connective-tissue, growth factors, and inhibit the activity of bone-building cells, muscle building cells, and cartilage building cells.

Excess cortisol levels not only accelerate the breakdown of connective tissues, but also interfere with biochemical process of building and repairing those same tissues. The same scenario of increased loss and suppressed repair is seen in related connective tissues, such as skin, hair, and nails.

Elevated levels of cortisol have been implicated in the acceleration of connective tissue destruction, while declining levels of estrogen (in women), testosterone (in men), and IGF-1 and growth hormone (in both sexes) are known to be part of our hampered ability to rebuild damaged tissue.

There is limited information on how elevated cortisol levels affects the skin, hair and nails, however, laboratory studies have shed some interesting light on the fact.

Excess cortisol bears a wide range of adverse effects on the underlying biochemistry of the skin and related tissues. Researchers in Finland have shown that while a low level of cortisol is able to stimulate the synthesis and slow the breakdown to approximately 25% of structural skin elements, such as hyaluronan and proteoglycans, higher levels of cortisol have exactly the opposite effect, reducing synthesis and accelerating degradation of these compounds by more than 40%.

Both hyaluronan and proteoglycans are responsible for hydrating the skin by attracting and holding adequate amounts of moisture, therefore, having reduced levels of these compounds in the skin, contributes to the skin drying.

Similar effects have been noted for related skin proteins, such as elastin and collagen. These observations have led many researchers to hypothesise that elevated cortisol levels may be responsible for accelerated skin ageing and overall skin atrophy observed during drug treatment with synthetic cortisol.

An interesting study has been conducted by marine biologists on the life of the poor old salmon. The salmon swims upstream for thousands of kilometers, spawns and quickly dies. The biologists discovered some very interesting information about the salmon when they caught them right after spawning - they had a very poor immune system. There were a lot of infections, unhealed wounds, and stomach ulcers. The biologist found that the salmon had outrageously high cortisol levels. They did a further study where they removed the adrenal glands of the salmon and low and behold the salmon experienced no cortisol secretion and no rapid onset of death and lived on for another year.

WHY CORTISOL LEVELS NEED TO BE CONSIDERED IN TREATING AGE-RELATED CONDITIONS?

The questions you ask during your consultation will give you vital information and you should seriously consider the cortisol levels of your client before treatment. If your client answers to three or more of the following, then you should consider recommending some relaxing treatments prior to invasive procedures: .

• Morning fatigue

• Heart palpitations

• Decreased concentration

• Decreased muscle mass

• Poor circulation (cold body temperature)

• Stress

• Depressed

• Anxiousness or nervous

• Irritable

• Memory lapses

• Sleep disturbances

CONCLUSION

High levels of stress - even over relatively short periods and in vastly different contexts - tend to produce similar results, such as prolonged healing times and heightened vulnerability to viral infection. Long term affect of chronic stress produces further symptoms, which include increased abdominal fat and in extreme cases leading to Cushing’s Syndrome.

Research shows that while we can’t turn the ‘cortisol tap’ on and off, we can control it by eating right and lowering our stress levels that we build up everyday. Being aware of the role of cortisol and the need to control this energy mechanism is a key factor in being healthy and happy, maintaining longevity, and minimizing the ageing process.

As valuable as cortisol is, it is also referred to as the “death” hormone. High levels of this hormone will hinder your efforts to build and repair lean muscle tissue because it accelerates muscle breakdown and enhances fat storage, especially in the abdominal area. APJ

References:

Fleckman D., (2000) The Nature of Stress & the Mind Body Connection

Bob Goldman MD & R Klatz MD with John Gearon. The Anti-Ageing Diet, Redwood

Gwynn-Jones G., (1996) The High Cost of Stress

Provident Medical Institute Adrenal Stress Index (ASI) M C Stoppler MD Cortisol, Stress and Weight Gain

Randall M., (2010) The Physiology of Stress: Cortisol nd the Hypothalamic-Pituitary-Adrenal Axis

Talbott S., (2001) The Cortisol Connection

Talbott S., Counteracting the Effects of Chronic Stress

TYPES OF CONTENTS YOU SHOULD POST To Increase Conversion

You want to grow your business, don’t you? If yes, let’s focus on achieve this by improving your content and engagement. You need posts that are useful for your readers’ lives.

If you want to achieve optimal results with your content and increase your conversion rate, you should create a plan with different types of content that you should be posting. Using this cheat sheet, you can create a plan with different types of content that will get your followers to notice, like and trust you. But, for this to happen, the post must be balanced. Here is what I mean:

1. EDUCATIONAL

Educate your clients and followers. People nowadays love seeing educational content that will help them answer FAQs, comments, and questions before they ask. This approach can help your business grow and make sure that your clients will stay loyal with your brand.

You can post:

• Business Tips,

• Niche Tricks

• Guides

• Tutorials

Check out this educational reel by @thedermalpractice it is so informative, educational, and interesting!

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CcPf0tahj3R/

2. PROMOTIONAL

Promotional content is the kind of content your audience should see. This will help them stay interested in what you have to offer and inspire them to choose your product or services. One great example for promotional content is sharing posts, reels and stories from your clients that have either purchased your products or services. If you have a client that likes to share their experiences - ask them to tag your clinic or practice on their socials. That way you can share their posts, stories, and reels. This is known as User Generated content, and can be extremely helpful, and the best digital work of mouth marketing that you have available.

You can also post:

Client results - make sure you comply with the social media guidelines, you can access that information from APAN.

• Your offers

• Special deals

• Special occasion offers (Christmas, New Year, Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, and any other occasion you can think of).

Here’s a great example of a promotional reel by pureskinplusclinic https://www.instagram.com/p/CZGSGV8pQGO/

3. ENTERTAINMENT

People love to be entertained; they love to hear stories. With apps like Instagram, people tend to watch entertaining or informative stories. You can create stories and content pieces, such as behind-

Trish Hammond - The Pink Room Digital

the-scenes of your product or service.

You can post:

• Memes

• Fun reels

• Industry trends

• Behind the scenes

You’ll be greatly entertained with this reel by @ lourettelaserandskin she is truly amazing!

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CkLbwhjqGFW/

4. ENGAGING

Using engaging content is the best way to get a potential client started on their ‘customer journey’. Once they start to love your content, they will start to love you. What a great way to increase your chances of purchases and conversions.

By checking your insights, you can work out what type of information your followers and potential clients are loving. What do they engage with? What is it that they are wanting? What pain point (ie issue) are you able to solve for them? This makes you an authority in your field and also increases your credibility.

You can post:

• Q&As

• FAQs

• Polls and Quizzes

I love this engaging post by @sciton_ausnz - check it out!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CkMWMWPIHed/

The bottom line is this - if you want to increase conversions from social media, then you need to tell a story. Your followers want

to know more about your business and what makes it different from your competitors’. To accomplish this goal, you need to create a brand pillar plan and then execute content pillars for your different social media platforms. It’s not as complicated as it might sound, give it a go!

May creativity be with you, BUT if you want us to extract that creativity from you and do it all for you, get in touch with us.

YOU

•

Or simply email trish@thepinkroom.com.au and let’s have a discovery call to work out exactly what you need and how we can help you get there. APJ

Stay tuned for our topic in the next APAN journal, “How Meta Business Suite Helps You Save Time and Money in Scheduling Posts.”

TRAINING AND MENTORING

The Next Generation

An interview with Jennifer Taylor

Meeting Jennifer Taylor, from the outset you are immediately struck by her infectious positivity and passion for her profession. Throughout her 43-year journey within her beauty and aesthetics career she has experienced first-hand virtually every facet of the industry from employee, salon owner to trainer and educator of the next generation. She is currently employed with the Australasian International School where she has accepted a new assignment as Academic Manager.

For the past 15 years Jennifer has held several teaching positions and her focus is to deliver exceptional education and training based on both new advances within the industry, supported by the wisdom of the past. Her success as an educator is attributed to her dedication and her ongoing commitment to her professional development. This has allowed her to always bring something fresh and contemporary to her students’ learning experience, coupled with a communication style that always exudes positive infectious energy and enthusiasm, ensure that her students remain constantly motivated as they develop their own identity within this profession. We recently caught up with Jennifer and asked her to share with us some of the highlights of her incredible journey.

business from a small three-room clinic in a pharmacy to huge new premises at Birkenhead shopping centre where she opened a large beauty salon, hair and spa and eventually a training college.

In that business I worked half a week in the salon and the other half of the week in the college. It is there that I discover my love for teaching and passing on my knowledge to both students and colleagues. Even in my own salon, I always employed some apprentices that included on-the-job training, which I took very seriously, so training was the focus for me from the very beginning.

I love thinking about my past students and find it so rewarding to know that I had played a small part in helping launch them in their own career path, allowing them to achieve their dreams. Even though in the early days the training was not RTO based, it did ignite in me a passion and commitment to see our industry advance and I realised my calling was to train and pass my knowledge to others.

Then in the early 1990s I was offered a role as principal of an international college and left my salon to my cousin as she looked after it so well – it is hers now. I worked there for almost three years, travelled the world and learning so much about the profession, as well as effective teaching methods.

I originally trained in beauty therapy with Ella Bache in 1979 and the following year I completed a diploma in massage therapy. But my learning never stopped - I continued to undertake postgraduate courses with several leading institutions, such as AACDS in WA where I completed a laser safety officer’s course.

In the late 1980s I established my own beauty salon in the inner west suburb of Leichhardt in Sydney which I ran for nearly 15 years and enjoyed every minute of it servicing my wonderful clients. My husband and my cousin also worked in the business, while my parents helped with housekeeping and maintenance, so it was a real family affair. These were great days of pure joy for which I cherish wonderful memories.

My passion for training was birthed from the very start. The first salon I worked in was About Face. Eventually the owner took the

A call from home from the Ella Bache college brought me back to Australia and I was offered the position of principal, which I accepted and remained there for 12 years, which I thoroughly enjoyed.

Following that I was offered a position as Head of Faculty with the Australasian College at Broadway and this began another phase in my training life, a chance to work in an amazing multidiscipline college with beauty, hair, makeup as well as laser and IPL. This was a truly incredible experience.

Following that position I moved to the world of TAFE as head teacher of the beauty division, and now onto my new venture with the Australasian International School as Academic Manager.

To answer the latter part of your question, I attribute my success as a trainer and educator to two factors – having experiences every facet of the industry including business owner, I have a

APJ 1: HOW DID YOU ENTER THE WORLD OF VET TRAINING IN BEAUTY THERAPY AND HOW DID YOUR PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE AS AN EMPLOYEE, SALON MANAGER AND OWNER CONTRIBUTE TO YOUR SUCCESS AS AN EDUCATOR?

firsthand understanding of what businesses are seeking from a graduate, this helps me prepare my students for the commercial world. My second reason is that I have fully embraced the fact that our industry in constantly advancing so I am highly committed to my own professional development.

APJ2: YOU RECENTLY JOINED THE AUSTRALASIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, AN RTO BASED IN SYDNEY. SHARE WITH US YOUR ROLE AND WHAT AREAS OF DEVELOPMENT ARE YOU INVOLVED IN WITHIN THIS COLLEGE?

I joined AIS just two months ago accepting the position as Academic Manager. I have fully embraced my role and enjoy the constant interaction with both the trainers and our students, as well as the team of dedicated administration and student support officers. We specialise in international students from all around the world. We have students from many countries including England, Malaysia, China, Singapore, India, Chili, Colombia and Ireland, just to name a few. They are diverse and wonderfully unique which is always interesting and exciting. Our CEO Bruno Tini is such an inspiring and innovative leader and I feel privileged to work with him. His vision is to create a college that embraces the world and offers training for careers and for life. My role is to set the standard for the academic processes and content, engage with our industry here and around the world and to create a system that is easily accessible and successfully supports creative learning. There is so much scope in my role and it is so nice to work for a CEO that encourages my initiative and acknowledges and respects the contribution and our work, not just mine, but also all the staff and trainers.

We have opened our college to the world with great success. Next year, part of my role will be to focus on the enrolment and support of local students. Due to their extensive expertise and reputation, we have chosen to join APAN as our industry body of choice. We believe that with their expensive knowledge and experience, they will provide us with the right support and guidance in moving forward.

APJ3: WHAT ARE THE CURRENT INDUSTRY CHALLENGES THAT YOU HAVE IDENTIFIED AND WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE IMPROVED OR DEVELOPED FOR THE BETTERMENT OF OUR INDUSTRY?

In our industry I see one challenge that concerns me – the lack of personal connection with each other. I believe we sometimes neglect staying connected with our colleagues within the industry with the view that other professionals are purely competitors. When I started out in the industry, I was mentored and supported by so many wonderful and inspiring leaders, who were happy to share their knowledge. While our suppliers can provide us with valuable information, we must not neglect to also access independent education, as well as shared experiences from colleagues.

Our world is constantly changing, and it is important that we stay in touch with progress, but also pursue industry networks as they are important in supporting on ongoing professional development. I strongly believe that we should support our associations and participate in their events. APAN has a real heart for quality education and industry best-practice. They have an incredible reputation as a hard-working and highly dedicated professional body committed to the betterment of the industry. Their conference programs are second to none in providing exceptional education, as well as excellent networking opportunities for the industry to come together.

Our industry plays an important role in the wellbeing of the public by providing our clients with valuable personal services delivered through care and nurture. We need to extend these skills also to our own professional community and continue to grow together.

COVID has made us appreciate the importance of human faceto-face interaction for both our mental health, as well as our wellbeing. We also need that human interaction within our own professional communities to sustain our growth and ensure our businesses go the distance.

In terms of education and training, I believe that a strong emphasis should also be placed on teaching our students, not just in the art and science of their services, but also in humanities. Good communication, curtesy, good manners and truly listening and connecting with their clients, are all equally important skills and they are what the consumer is now looking for. We need to develop the skills to nurture, care and inspire our clients also psychologically for the benefit of their wellbeing.

I often tell our trainers that we must not just focus on impressing our students with our knowledge, we must also focus on inspiring them to become better people.

APJ4: ON A MORE POSITIVE NOTE, WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT THE INDUSTRY THAT YOU BELIEVE WILL SUPPORT ITS POTENTIAL FOR CONTINUED ADVANCEMENT AND GROWTH?

Where do I start? The potential in our industry is truly limitless. We use both our technical and human skills to help people look and feel better about themselves. Through our services we also support and encourage women to give of themselves with greater confidence so that they can better serve the people in their own world - this is a noble pursuit. However, if we want our clients to continue to turn to us to access quality services, advice and support, we will need to ensure that we don’t neglect to grow our own knowledge, not just on technical issues, but also in becoming better communicators in providing human care, hope, positivity to our staff and clients. This will help us to continue to grow as individuals, as well as maintain our businesses as viable and sustainable enterprises.

APJ5: SHARE WITH US SOME PERSONAL HIGHLIGHTS OF YOUR PROFESSIONAL JOURNEY?

Being able to have my own business and working with my family has been an incredible highlight for me. I also cherished the opportunity to sharing my knowledge and skills around the world. The amazing industry people I have met and friendships that I have forged in this industry are precious to me. I am also so grateful for the various roles have been able to evolve through. And now today in this interview with Tina Viney. She has been a great inspiration to me over the years. Her extensive knowledge and dedication to bring the best out in others and help inspire an industry to continue to raise the standards and advance, has given me the courage to do the same.

THE ROLE OF HELIOBACTERIA PYLORI INFECTION

and its Contribution to Rosacea

Lynette Rouse

Helicobacter pylori (H. pylori) infection occurs when H. pylori bacteria infect your stomach. This usually happens during childhood. A common cause of stomach ulcers (peptic ulcers), H. pylori infection may be present in more than half the people in the world. It is now shown to contribute to the root cause of rosacea.

Most people don’t realise they have H. pylori infection because they never get sick from it. Currently, H. pylori is treated with antibiotics. In this article Lynette Rouse presents recent studies that show how certain strands of probiotics can provide a more gentle solution to H.pylori and for individuals who suffer from rosacea.

In the human body the inhabiting gut microbial species consists of a vast collection of bacteria, viruses, fungi and protozoa that collectively have been shown to contain 3.3 million genes which, when compared to the human genome’s ~23,000, demonstrates the sheer magnitude and potential effect of these species on human health (Bander et al., 2020).

The gut microbiota plays such an important role in our overall health that it can be called the “forgotten organ” (O’Hara and Shanahan 2006). It performs a fundamental role in the induction, training, and function of the host immune system. In return, the immune system has largely evolved in order to maintain the symbiotic relationship of the host with these highly diverse and evolving microbes (Belkaid and Hand 2014).

Microbes possess a variety of functions that influence their ability to grow and colonise, whilst bringing about downstream effects for the host that may be beneficial or otherwise (Zheng et al., 2020). Certain gut microbes and metabolites influence the balance of pro and anti-inflammatory responses in our digestive system and throughout our immune system.

When operating optimally, the immune system–microbiota alliance interweaves the innate and adaptive arms of immunity in a dialogue that selects, calibrates, and terminates responses in the most appropriate manner. How defined members of the microbiota interact with their host can be highly contextual with the same microbe developing as a mutualistic or pathogenic parasite according to the nutritional co-infection or genetic landscape of its host (Belkaid, Hand 2014).

THE LINK TO INFLAMMATORY SKIN DISEASES

As long ago as 1907, Metchnikoff postulated that health and longevity are intimately connected to gut microbiota. Multiple human and animal studies suggest that the intestinal microbiome’s influence extends beyond the gut and contributes to the functions and dysfunctions of distant organ systems (Salem et al., 2018) and inflammatory disease. Though not yet fully explored, there is increasing evidence supporting the existence of a gut-skin axis, but its translational potential is not widely recognised. Studies linking inflammatory skin disease to an imbalanced gut microbiome present a feasible approach to the mechanisms by which intestinal microbiota exert their influence on skin homeostasis appears to be related to the modulatory effect of gut commensals on systemic immunity (O’Neill et al., 2016). In addition, there is new evidence that the intestinal microbiome may impact cutaneous physiology, pathology, and immune response more directly, through the metastasis of gut microbiota and their metabolites to the skin (Samuelson et al., 2015; O’Neil et at., 2016).

Certain species of microbes produce specific enzymes that enable fermentation of nutrients into absorbable forms, including that of indigestible carbohydrates into short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs). SCFAs may have anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory effects. SCFAs (i.e., propionate, acetate, butyrate) are end

products of dietary fibre fermentation in the gut and are known to take an important part in determining the microbial composition of the skin which is closely linked with the cutaneous immune defence mechanisms. Cutibacterium produces acetate and propionic acid in the gut, which is SCFAs. Propionic acid and its esterified derivatives suppress the growth of methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus USA300 (in vitro study). In the meanwhile,

cutaneous commensals such as S. epidermis and C. acnes tolerate wider SCFA shifts than others. Together, the findings suggest that there is a mutual interaction between the gut and skin (Kim and Kim 2019). In cases of disturbed intestinal barriers, intestinal bacteria as well as intestinal microbiota metabolites have been reported to gain access to the bloodstream, accumulate in the skin, and disrupt skin homeostasis (O’Neill et al., 2016).

THE ROLE OF HELIOBACTERIA PYLORI AND ROSACEA

Next to the known trigger factors, the role of microbiota in the development and aggravation of rosacea continues to raise interest. It is identified that the pathophysiology of rosacea is poorly understood however, the efficacy of antibiotics in rosacea treatment suggests that microbes are a pathogenic factor (Hei Sung Kim 2020). An association between gastrointestinal microbial status and rosacea has been postulated. In particular, the role of Helicobacter pylori infection has long been suggested in the pathogenesis of rosacea (Szanto et al., 2019).

Heliobacteria pylori (H. pylori) is a gram-negative bacillus that has naturally colonised the human GI for thousands

of years. Mostly acquired in childhood it colonises the gastric mucosa of approximately two-thirds of the world’s population as estimated by the Centres for Disease Control and Prevention. H. pylori has emerged as an important pathogen associated with the gastroduodenal region. Infection with H. pylori induces a persistent immune response. Because the organism has numerous adaptations to prevent immune detection, clearance by the body is never complete (Yaxley and Chakravarty 2014).

Although H. pylori infection does not cause illness in most infected people, it causes extensive changes in the diversity and structure of the gut microbiota, significantly contributing to gastric microbial dysbiosis and is a major risk factor for peptic ulcer disease and is responsible for most ulcers of the stomach and upper small intestine (National Cancer Institute). When cytotoxic substances are released, by H. pylori it induces inflammation (Van den Berg et al., 2014) resulting in sustained inflammatory processes causing a reduction in the population of somatostatin-producing d cells. Subsequently, this stimulates a rise in gastrin secretion followed by an increase in gastric acid release It remains a significant cause of morbidity worldwide (Yaxley and Chakravarty 2014).

Recent studies have investigated the prevalence of H. pylori and the role it plays in rosacea (Forton 2020). In one study, a significantly higher number of H. pylori were present in rosacea patients compared to controls (Kutlubay MD et al., 2017). Furthermore, in 62% of rosacea patients with H. pylori gastritis was confirmed (Argenziano et al., 2003). It has also been reported rosacea patients have a higher frequency of bacterial overgrowth in the small intestine (SIBO) compared to healthy individuals. (Whitehead, 2009). Research has shown that when patients are treated for SIBO it reduces their condition significantly (Parodi et al., 2008). It is suggested that treating SIBO could reduce vasodilation and neuropeptide-involved rosacea symptoms (Van den Berg et al.,2014).

According to Bamford, although the effect of H. pylori on rosacea is not completely clear, treating H. pylori with eradication therapy in the form of amoxicillin, clarithromycin, and omeprazole has shown no significant reduction in symptoms for rosacea patients. (Bamford et al., 1999). In contrast, Kutlubay demonstrates H. pylori as a risk factor that may cause or aggravate the condition of rosacea and that its eradication therapy in the form of amoxicillin 500 mg/6h and metronidazole 500mg, thrice daily, for 10 days showed significant improvement in the positive group with rosacea severity, concluding that this form of treatment leads to a favourable clinical outcome (Kutlubay MD et al., 2017). However, the mass eradication of H. pylori with antibiotic treatment as a preventative measure raises several concerns, including the emergence of antibiotic resistance and perturbation in gut microbiota following H. pylori eradication (Chang Chen et al., 2021).

THE BENEFIT OF PROBIOTICS

Currently, it is medically recognised that there is no treatment available to cure rosacea. Today there is a growing interest in natural products as alternatives to synthetic drugs. In this respect, oral probiotics could be a simple, safe and cheap modality in the therapeutic management of skin inflammation (Szanto et al., 2019). Probiotic bacteria can be beneficial to human health, for example, by inhibiting the growth of pathogenic bacteria in the intestine and by secreting bioactive metabolites, such as shortchain fatty acids (Zamora-Pineda et al., 2021). There are multiple studies that show probiotics play a major role in maintaining human health and disease prevention (Habeebuddin et al., 2022) and it is recognised that probiotics could be a simple, safe and cheap modality in the therapeutic management of H. pylori (Pinchuk et al., 2001).

In the consensus statement published in 2014, the International Scientific Association for Probiotics and Prebiotics defines probiotics as “live microorganisms that, when administered in adequate amounts, confer a health benefit on the host”. Probiotics exert their beneficial effects through several modes of action and have found wide use in preventing or treating disease. Probiotics belonging to Lactobacillus spp., Bifidobacterium spp., Saccharomyces spp., Bacillus spp., Enterococcus spp., and Streptococcus spp., are consumed around the world for their health benefits (Ghelardi et al., 2022).

PROBIOTICS AND H.PYLORI BACTERIA

The probiotic bacteria most widely studied belong to the Lactobacillus sp., Bacteroides sp., Bifidobacteria sp., and Bacillus sp. These bacteria have been used to treat diarrhoea, irritable bowel syndrome, and atopic dermatitis, among other diseases (Zamora-Pineda et al., 2021). Probiotic Bacillus subtilis has a fascinating history dating back thousands of years. It was identified as beneficial by the Japanese who to this day consume it and consider it beneficial for multiple health purposes. It is recognised as a safe, non-pathogenic spore-forming, soil microorganism and the gastrointestinal tracts of some animals. It is known to have antagonistic properties against species of the family Enterobacteriaceae. Studies show evidence that Bacillus subtilis has been found to inhibit H.pylori. Of the 21 strains of H. pylori tested, all were inhibited by Bacillus subtilis 3 (Pinchuk et al., 2001). The robustness of its spores is thought to enable passage across the gastric barrier, where a proportion of spores may germinate and colonise, albeit briefly, in the intestinal tract (Pinchuk et al., 2001).

The beneficial effects of certain bacillus species (Bacillus subtilis, Bacillus licheniformis, and Bacillus toyoi) on the balance of the gastrointestinal microflora of humans and animals are the basis of the rationale for their use as probiotics in the treatment and prevention of intestinal disorders. These probiotics are available as pharmaceutical and food preparations in different European countries, Japan, Russia, Ukraine, and other countries even though little is understood about how these bacteria exert their prophylactic and therapeutic benefits.

It has also been recognised for 50 years that B. subtilis and other Bacillus spp. secrete antibiotics. These antibiotics usually belong to the peptide and lipopeptide groups, the aminoglycoside group, and sometimes, groups of antibiotics with various original chemical structures. A series of new antibiotics have been recently isolated from well-known B. subtilis strains which include bacilysocin, an anti-microbial phospholipid (Stein 2005), one such antimicrobial substance was produced by B. subtilis 2. The physicochemical characterisation of this active purified substance suggested that it was identical to amicoumacin A, an antibiotic of the isocoumarin group, its identity was confirmed by an NMR spectral data analysis. Amicoumacin A exhibits anti-inflammatory properties, as well as anti-stress ulcer properties (Pinchuk et al., 2001).

As well as oral therapy for rosacea, there are also topical treatments possible. The FDA approved four topical treatments for rosacea including metronidazole and azelaic acid. Metronidazole has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects (Narayanan et al., 2007). It is used to treat erythema and inflammatory lesions (Veldman et al., 2014). The mechanism of action is believed to be a decrease of ROS in neutrophils (Narayanan et al., 2007). Azelaic acid also has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects. It is used to treat papules and pustules of mild and moderate rosacea (Veldman et al., 2014). The mechanism of action may be through anti-inflammatory and anti-keratinisation effects (Mayer-da-Silva et al., 1988). Furthermore, azelaic acid downregulates KLk5 and therefore downregulates cathelicidins (Coda et al., 2013).

TOPICAL PROBIOTIC BACULLUS SUBTILIS FOR ROSACEA

Topical probiotics have demonstrated beneficial effects for the treatment of certain inflammatory skin diseases such as acne, rosacea, psoriasis etc., and have also been found promising in wound healing Habeebuddin et al., 2022). The antibiotic compounds within Bacillus subtilis aid in improving immunity and killing off potential pathogens that may cause illness and diseases. Bacillus spores, like Bacillus coagulans, produce antioxidant compounds in the form of carotenoids that help rid the body of free radicals (Saggse, Baccigalupi and Ricca 2021).

Increased growth of pure S. epidermidis was observed from pustules of patients with rosacea when compared with that from the surrounding skin (Otto 2009). Bacillus subtills is known to protect the skin by producing bacitracin (a polypeptide antibiotic) a compound that controls and inhibits the growth of S. epidermidis other bacteria. Further, it has been demonstrated that B. subtills produces chlorotetain, a halogenated variant of bacilysin (bacilysin, is the simplest peptide antibiotic known, is such a dipeptide synthesized by B. subtilis) which kills s. epidermidis cells. Secondly, after the attack, motile B. subtilis emerges from the colony to dramatically engulf the wild-type S. epidermidis colony. (Hernandez-Valdes et al., 2020)

The microbiota acts as a barrier and has a protective role in the skin. (Callewaert et al; Hei Sung Kim 2020) and the gut microbiota shapes up the skin flora (Kim and Kim 2018). An imbalance or dysbiosis on either side can contribute to chronic inflammatory skin disease to include acne vulgaris, rosacea, and atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and accelerated skin aging (Yang et al., 2022). APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

DANDELION FLOWERS & ROOTS for

better skin and health

Tina Viney

As we are slowly moving closer to summer, the weather is progressively becoming warmer. Looking at my back yard I have noticed that my dandelions are starting to grow with the bloom of their sunny yellow flowers scattered within my lawn. While they may be taken as a weed, I am reluctant to remove them as I am acutely aware of the excellent health benefits dandelions provide both for the skin and body.

Recently, I listened to an amazing lecture by Dr Eric Berg on the subject and this stirred up my interest to further research this amazing herb and I was thrilled to discover a comprehensive body of research that supports the health benefits of dandelion. So, in this article let’s explore some of this information.

WHAT IS DANDELION?

Dandelion is an amazing herbal plant that is botanically classified as Taraxacum officinale. It has been cherished for its tremendous healing properties since ancient times. It is a symbol of the true perseverance of nature.

Dandelion’s botanical name “Taraxacum officinale” speaks for its usefulness and refers to the healing effect. Namely, ‘Taraxacum’ comes from the Greek and means ‘anti-inflammatory’ and ‘officinale’ refers to the common name for herbs. However antiinflammatory effect is not the only benefit of the dandelion.

Often taken as weeds, these flowers have excellent benefits, especially for the skin. In fact, every part of this plant, from root to flower is loaded with fibre, minerals and vitamins and is used in

various ways because of its health properties. Let’s first look at its benefits for the skin:

THE BENEFITS OF DANDELION FOR THE SKIN

1. Enhances Skin Hydration

Dandelion is known to enhance skin hydration, making the skin well-moisturised and plumper.

2. Aids Collagen Production

Another major benefit of a dandelion when it comes to skin care is that it aids collagen production. Collagen is an essential protein that provides skin elasticity and strength. With age, our body’s ability to produce collagen naturally decreases; due to this, our skin starts sagging and fails to bounce back.

3. Features Anti-Inflammatory PropertiesWStudies concern that dandelions have been shown to minimise skin irritation and inflammation; hence it is ideal for those with sensitive skins. Not to mention, it has been used since time immemorial as an effective treatment for various skin issues like rashes, acne, psoriasis, and eczema.

The latex fluid that flows from the flower stem has also been used in traditional medicine to cure age spots, warts, and other skin inflammations, including insect bites and pimples. That said, it’s worth noting that some people could be sensitive to it, and its use could cause dermatitis. Always

keep an eye out for indications of irritation and stop using if this happens. And if you’re allergic to latex, make sure that you don’t use it at all.

4. Safeguards the skin against UVB damage and photo-ageing

According to research, dandelion flower extracts and leaves offer a considerable skin protective effect against UV damage. Additionally, dandelion can slow down skin cell oxidation when those cells come in contact with UV rays. It could also stimulate antioxidant regeneration in the skin, thereby providing further protection against UVB radiation. One study concluded that dandelion could help safeguard the skin from various ageing factors caused by prolonged periods of sun exposure.

5. Offers Anti-Ageing Benefits

Studies also demonstrated that the plant features a slew of skincare vitamins, including vitamins E, C, and A, which could reverse and prevent ageing symptoms when used topically. These vitamins are strong antioxidants and could safeguard your skin from free radical damage, ensuring it looks younger and healthier. Additionally, they can:

• Stimulate circulation

• Prevent and reduce wrinkles and fine lines

• Even out skin tone

• Aid elastin and collagen formation

• Promote skin cell production

• Keep skin diseases at bay

It is interesting to note that dandelion features all three essential vitamins A, C and E that help benefit your skin health.

SYSTEMIC HEALTH BENEFITS OF DANDELION

Not just for the skin, dandelion offers several benefits for overall health. Eating the greens and drinking dandelion tea from dandelion root will strengthen your health.

Diabetes: For example, dandelion roots and stems help fight diabetes. This is because it stimulates the pancreas to produce insulin, which in turn stabilises the blood sugar level.

Digestion and liver tonic: Dandelion is also beneficial for digestive problems as it helps to cleanse, tone and maintain the liver. As we know the liver produces bile in the digestive system and filters blood from chemicals and other impurities. Dandelion tea can help maintain and support the health of the liver.

While the leaves are bitter, they are perfectly edible. They can either be gently boiled or finally cut and added to a salad with a little salt, lemon and olive oil they can be quite pleasant to eat. To minimise the bitter taste, you can also add them with your favourite fruit in a blender as a smoothie. They are high in fibre, which helps improve bowel function. In addition, fibre reduces the risk of obesity, heart disease and irritable bowel syndrome. The leaves are also high in vitamin A – one cup contains 100% of your daily requirement. Vitamin A is critical for maintaining healthy eyesight as well as helps prevent premature skin ageing.

Help minimise triglyceride and cholesterol levels: According to several studies, extracts of dandelion roots and leaves can help minimise triglyceride build-up and the fat cells to the compounds found in dandelion.

Support overall body health: As dandelions are known to feature numerous potent antioxidants, they can be helpful in protecting the body against free radical damage.

It is also worth noting that dandelions (especially the yellow flowers) feature high levels of beta-carotene, which could help safeguard your body against oxidative stress and cell damage. Additionally, dandelions have a high content of polyphenols, another beneficial antioxidant that is found in the dandelion root.

Dandelions and cancer malignancy: One of the most remarkable health claims regarding dandelion extract is its ability to stop malignant (cancerous) cells from growing in multiple organ systems. According to a study, dandelion root extract could alter certain pathways involved in curbing the spread and growth of cancer cells in rats. However, keep in mind that this research is yet to be performed on humans.

Dandelion extracts and bone health: Although there is little research on the effect of dandelions on bone health, a few individual ingredients present in the plants could promote the growth of healthy bones. It has been found that dandelion greens contain a high quantity of vitamin K. Vitamin K is primarily involved in blood clotting, bone metabolism and building protein. Vitamin K does its work in the liver and other tissues, including your brain, pancreas and heart, as well as the skeletal system.

Dandelions and weight loss: Since dandelion can reduce fat absorption and enhance the metabolism of carbohydrates, some researchers believe it can promote weight loss.

IDENTIFYING DANDELIONS

Dandelions are quite easy to identify. They produce yellow flowers that transform into spherical white puffballs. Many gardeners and herbalists believe that dandelions produce only one flower per plant, but that’s not true. In fact, a dandelion can produce numerous flower shoots simultaneously, especially if the growing conditions suit it. Remember that each stem could have

one flower, but a plant can contain numerous flowers.

THE PROCESS OF HARVESTING DANDELIONS

The leaves and flowers usually play a big role in skincare, so here we will focus only on them. But first, ensure that your harvesting area hasn’t been sprayed with pesticides. It is also imperative that you don’t gather the plant from a roadside as it could be affected by pollution.

1. Harvesting Leaves

Harvesting dandelion leaves is quite easy. Pick as many leaves as you wish, rinse them well to remove dirt and dust, and dry them gently. Contrary to flowers, dandelion leaves tend to dry well. We strongly recommend placing the leaves in an oven or baking sheet for hours until they are entirely dry. You can even use a food dehydrator, too. After the leaves turn dry, crush them in a tiny food processor or a mortar. Then store them in a jar till they are ready to use. You can add them to DIY facial masks and soaps and reap their benefits.

2. Harvesting Flowers: As far as harvesting dandelion flowers is concerned, note that these little yellow flowers open their buds once in the morning and close when the sun sets. Therefore, you need to harvest the flowers long before the sun sets.

First, gather the flower heads; you can easily pop them using your fingers. Make sure you choose only bright-coloured flowers that are just about to bloom, as flowers that have already turned brown will most likely not have too many therapeutic benefits.

After washing and allowing them to thoroughly dry (as mentioned above), you can add them in a clean sterilised and dry jar with a high-quality carrier oil. Seal the jar tightly and store in a dark place for six weeks. You can shake the jar from time to time. There should be no contaminants or mould present. If you identify any mould, you will need to toss the content out and start again.

After six weeks you can strain the content and use the oil for cosmetic purposes.

IN CONCLUSION

While the research regarding the benefit of dandelion for skin and health is impressive, it must be noted that some individuals may experience allergic reactions especially with taking dandelion in supplement form. For pre-existing health conditions please check with your healthcare professional before taking any supplements.

As there are several study references, please contact the editor for a copy.

APJ

EMPLOYEE OWNERSHIP IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY

Deb Farnworth-Wood

In the last edition of the Aesthetic Practitioners Journal, I wrote about the Employee Ownership Trust arrangements (EOT) as I was in the process of putting the scheme into place for both Issada and my aesthetic clinic. This issue I thought I’d cover some of the key points.

To recap, the key purpose of the trust is to:

• Reward staff for their contribution to business growth

• Encourage longevity of employment

• Attract a higher calibre staff who aspire to the bigger picture

• Create an environment conducive to more efficient growth

• Inspire the team to think like an owner

• To encourage them to gain new skills along the way

• To succession plan for when I retire - if I ever do!

It is continuing to be an interesting process that has stimulated conversations around many aspects of the business. In this update, I’m going to talk about some of the decisions that need to be made and I would love your feedback as business owners –good and bad!

There are several decisions to be made but today I am focussing on eligibility. This is an area that the team has varying views on. Eligibility was my number one priority – who should be included in the EOT and why? The beauty of an EOT is that you can make anyone a beneficiary - but for the purposes of transparency and a fair system, the rules need to be established early on to ensure minimal future problems, so I began looking at the various categories of stakeholders we had. I broke down the stakeholders into the following - shareholders, directors, employees, and contracted staff.

I decided to exclude shareholders as a beneficiary of the EOT as any fast-growing business needs to plan for changes, for example, shareholding and raising capital. To include this category of investor in the EOT would also risk diluting the trust dividend payments to employees.

Next, I looked at directors and decided that as a director, it would be counter-intuitive to include myself in the scheme. However, the company may need more future directors as part of the EOT and other directors may or may not be employees. Therefore, I decided that employees that are directors will of course be included, but not any directors who are paid board positions and do not actually work in the business.

We also had to consider whether we include casual workers and temporary staff (and if so, would that be all casuals or only longer-term ones?) Would there be a minimum number of hours to qualify? At this point, I had a few thoughts on this, but these were all under consideration.

Next, I looked at our offshore marketing team. The marketing contribution is vital to any business, but this group are not employees as they operate under an offshore contract. I determined that this team should be included in the EOT as we do want to motivate them for success. We also have an Australianbased contractor who has a business of her own but works with Issada to deliver training as and when required. She also assists in the organisation of our events team when needed and her specific talents are essential to the business. Again, I determined that she should be included. In the end, the decision was made that all employees plus any additional contractors who were in “business driver” roles could be included. Clearly, the marketing team is a business driver as is the trainer and events manager.

The next step in the process – which I will write about in the next journal is about fair distribution of profits to the beneficiaries.

Deb Farnworth-Wood is the founder of the Australian Skin Clinics Franchise which she sold in 2019. She is now the owner of Issada Cosmetics - a mineral makeup and skin-care range and still operates her original aesthetic clinic on the Gold Coast.

THE SIGNIFICANCE OF EXTENDED HEALING TIME WITH Cosmetic Tattoo Procedures

When I first started cosmetic tattooing many years ago, I was taught that clients were booked to do their 2nd follow up appointment 4-6 weeks post initial procedure. So, like all good students, I stuck to the training, followed the protocols and tattooed as many faces as I could get my hands on. Although doing lots of tattooing was a great experience, I would literally tattoo anyone who agreed to let me (as long as they weren’t contraindicated), but as they returned to me after the healing period, what I observed was a whole different story and let me tell you, this was a huge learning curve for me.

So, let’s talk eyebrows.

For example, after a brow procedure, the client was required to return 4-6 week later, after healing was completed. On inspecting their brows, I would observe some with mottled, or the pigment would look slightly patchy in some areas, and cloudy in another. On the other hand, others would come in and their brows would be almost perfect. This inconsistency was so unpredictable, and the results were in many cases disheartening. This baffled me.

Never one to give up or accept defeat, I continued to question every single one of my healed results. Why did this happen? Why did that heal the way it did? So, I continued to tweak and refine and experiment with different techniques, needles and machines on all different types of skin. And then one day it just clicked. Here I was at the time with a good 10 years of combined beauty and mortuary experience, and the answer to almost everything I needed to know I already knew! It all came back to the SKIN and its healing process. It was so simple, yet I’d been so focused on doing exactly what I’d been taught that I didn’t connect the dots. Yet I knew the procedure needed a minimum of six weeks to heal from a trauma - whether it’s a rip, a tear or a puncture and here I was working on unhealed skin, and that’s why my results were so inconsistent!

So, I started pushing my touch up appointments out to a minimum of eight weeks, and a good 10-12 weeks for my older clients, or those who have been or are immunocompromised. What I discovered was that this extra time allowing the skin and underlying tissue to heal longer, led to my results healing better. I also found that pigment colour settled correctly in the skin and there were no more cloudy spots or patchy areas. If there were any areas which healed a bit weaker or needed to be built up, they were minimal and when the skin is well and truly healed from the inside out, it takes the pigment easily and there is hardly any trauma or residual redness.

Fast forward another eight years and even today, I don’t touch anyone inside 8-10 weeks allowing the healing to reach its optimal. With my correction and removal clients I ensure a good three months for healing in between appointments. Depending on how bad some client’s initial tattoos were, there has even been instances where I have pushed follow-up appointments as far as 6-8 months – so, timing between appointments will very much depends on what you’re working with especially on the corrective side.

Cosmetic tattoo veteran and hairstrokes extraordinaire and trainer Mary Richardson is also a huge advocate of extended healing times and explains they are especially important if you get a client with already difficult skin such as mature, ruddy, thin or compromised skin.

“I’ve had clients that have the most wonderful canvas and heal beautifully, so I will do them at four months, and on some occasions, I’ll do them in three months, but those that bleed, swell and the-like need more babying if you will,” Mary says. “If they were compromised at the first appointment, know that the second one will be as bad or worse if traumatised too soon. Forcing pigment into compromised skin can potentially heal horribly.

Katherine McCann - Cosmetic & Medical Tattooist

“It happened to me when I did the touch-up at six weeks and the results were less than desirable, but by extending my touch-up times, I find that they heal so much better” she said.

Over the years I definitely have had my fair share of compromised clients, complicated skin types, excessive sun damage, deep wrinkles, scarring along with a multitude of rainbow brows which have needed some kind of removal or laser, all of which add that extra layer of complexity to designing and achieving a beautiful healed natural eyebrow.

However, the real mastery and skill comes down to the art of illusion, to make an uneven canvas appear soft and even - which I’m sure every seasoned technician can relate to can at times be very character building, but ... that is real life.

TIME IS YOUR BEST FRIEND

Luckily, pigments, machines, needles and techniques have come a long way and they all play a huge role in the clients’ results and retention. However, the number one tip I can give anyone, whether they are doing straightforward cosmetic tattooing, tackling removals and corrections, or doing the more advanced scar work is that time is your best friend. Never cut corners, ensure you allow more than sufficient healing times especially if the skin has had previous trauma (removal/ laser / injury /trauma etc) and your results will speak for themselves.

IN CONCLUSION

As a rule, I educate my clients around the basics of healing by way of visual explanation to demonstrate when the skin is ready to be tattooed. I never cut corners and no amount of money is worth compromising a client’s result or satisfaction, even if they become impatient with wanting their new brows sooner.

As I stressed above, time is your best friend and in the long run, as long as you educate and provide context behind why you do what you do (even if it differs from what others do or what they read on the internet), your clients will appreciate both the results, as well as you for looking out for their best interest. APJ

TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS

GETTING BACK ON TRACK WITH A PAYMENT PLAN

As a business owner you are required to ensure you are on-track with your tax obligations, but not being able to meet them can be very stressful. But did you know that the Australian Taxation Office has made a provision to assist you. Small businesses and sole traders who are having trouble paying their tax can set up payment plans?

A payment plan is a practical way to pay you tax bill progressively, allowing you to break down your payment into smaller, manageable amounts that you pay over an agreed period of time. You pay an amount every week, fortnight or month until the balance is cleared. However, this plan must be communicated and agreed upon by the RTO, you can’t set it up with notifying them.

THE TAX PROVISION

If you owe $100,000 or less, you can set up a payment plan using the RTO’s online services via myGov (if you’re a sole trader) or Online services for business (for other businesses). Your registered tax agent can also set up your payment plan on your behalf using the RTO’s Online Services for Agents.

Eligible small businesses that owe

overdue activity statement amounts may be able to pay them off interest-free over 12 months.

If you owe more than $100,000 or can’t afford a payment plan offered online, you can contact us on 13 11 42 during their operating hours to discuss your options. APJ

WHY YOU SHOULD ENSURE YOU HAVE ESTABLISHED BESTPRACTICE POLICIES

To provide quality care, salons and clinics must operate efficiently and run well. This is true for the obvious reason – as a personal service business you are required to meet with best practice standards of client care.

These include:

• Making sure your operational procedures are based on honest and ethical guidelines of “do-no-harm”

• Ethical conduct with your financial business dealings

• Providing up-to-date professional services that meet with your clients’ expectations

• A safe and streamlined working environment.

It is true that providing a well-run practice will ensure that you worry less about daily administrative emergencies, allowing you to spend more time on delivering consistent high standards of service and results for your clients. Fortunately, many recent technological advances can make workplace processes quicker and more efficient, they can also contribute to a happier and more productive work environment.

Electronic record keeping, for example, are far more efficient than the paper systems they replaced, and they reduce errors by putting all the relevant information right at the provider’s fingertips.

To ensure that you are complying with industry best practice we have compiled a list of some of the key areas that you should review. Best practice activities will ensure that your salon or clinic will excel in both client/patient care, as well in the business activities that support it. Establishing efficient best practice standards will ultimately elevate your brand’s reputation with your consumers.

COMPLY WITH YOUR INDUSTRY’S CODE OF ETHICS

Start by accessing and reviewing your industry’s Code of Ethics. One of APAN’s mission is to establish global best practice guidelines through our industry Code of Ethics. This Code is regularly reassessed and updated to ensure it reflects the needs of a constantly changing industry and business environment. The APAN Code of Ethics clearly defines professional conduct in five different areas:

• Practitioner/Client relationships

• Referrals

• Education and Compliance

• Business and Financial dealings

• Professional Conduct

All members are required to abide by this Code as well as train their staff to also operate by these requirements.

While you can establish your own Code, this is a specialised area, and your best choice is to access your industry’s professional Code as determined by your industry professional body.

Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome

WORKPLACE AGREEMENT

This is one of the most important things that businesses need to establish. Every member of the team will contribute either positively or negatively to the overall patient experience and to the wellbeing of the practice. The relationship between team members sets the tone for the business and determines whether work will be cooperative or antagonistic. Finding great people can be a challenge, but a business with clearly defined standards will be guided to better determine the right people that it wants to represent them. Once excellent team members are hired, the most successful practices support them by giving them clear guidelines of what is expected of them. A Workplace Agreement is a legal document that clearly outlines conduct and expectations. This includes ownership of intellectual property and accountability. This document is to a Policies and Procedure manual.

POLICIES AND PROCEDURE

While some businesses combine Workplace Agreements with their Policies and Procedures Manual, they cover different areas. While Workplace Agreements covers conduct, behaviour, accountability, personal presentation and intellectual property, a Policies and Procedures manual covers operational processes and how you perform your treatments, as well as how you comply with regulatory standards and occupational health and safety obligations.

One of the key contributing factors to reputation is the establishment of uniformity of standard in every procedure

that you perform. Your Policies and Procedures Manual should clearly define how you want your treatments to be delivered in a way that will ensure that uniform standards are delivered and maintained.

Consultation and Consent Forms

Prior to performing a procedure with your clients or patients you are required to perform a thorough consultation to determine safety parameters and potential contraindications, establish communication about expectations and determine the most efficient way to deliver the procedure. Your client or patient must also be presented with any risks and treatment limitations. They must then provide you with permission to go ahead by signing the informed consent form. Various procedures may require different Consultation Forms. APAN has five different Consultation Forms that will allow you to capture the right information for the procedure you are performing.

Qualifications and Professional Development

As part of professionalism, qualifications should be displayed for consumers to review, including, Membership Certificates to professional bodies, Cancellation policies, Refund policies and Privacy Policies and any Health Licences. Today’s consumers are quietly seeking for evidence of these. Displaying them will be your silent advertisers.

Introducing New Procedures

Part of best practice is to ensure that you are fully qualified to deliver any procedure you perform and that you have in place

your local Council’s or regulatory licences. If a procedure is relatively new and has no formal qualification guidelines, this is where you will need to contact your Association for best-practice guidelines as it is their responsibility to provide you with the appropriate contraindications and safety measures, as well as alert you to risks associated to delivering this procedure that you may not be aware of.

Create a customer-centric culture

There has been a shift in the balance of power in the personal service industry, especially in cosmetic medicine. Traditional thinking about the doctor/ patient relationship, where the physician is largely in control, is giving way to the customer/provider relationship for good reason. The move toward consumerdirected aesthetic and cosmetic care means that practitioners need to focus on providing an experience that keep their clients loyal and delivers value. An excellent best practice is to frequently request client feedback. Ask clients about their expectations, what they value and appreciate the most, to gain an understanding what is most important to them.

Market the practice of standards

Credibility and Best Practice sells! Especially since COVID. If you have invested in objective recognition of your standards through your association, market this fact. To grow your practice, or to simply retain your existing clients don’t underestimate the value of articulating and provide the public with evidence of your compliance to best practice and industry defined standards.

TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS

Apart from membership APAN, also offers a qualification registration process called ARAP™ and CTARP. This program requires evidence of government-approved qualifications and a commitment to ongoing professional development and includes the requirement of achieving 15 CPD point each year to maintain your registration.

Access the COVID Skin Manifestations and Solutions program

As part of best practice, in conjunction with academics, APAN has compiled a 68-page document that will provide you with the FIRST industry update on evidence-based skin manifestations due to COVID-19 as well as other symptoms such as fatigue and brain fog, due to COVID long haul. This document is one-of-a-kind and will provide you with information and treatment option that are supported by research. Check for further information in this journal and access this document.

Get advice when investing in new technology

While it is important to keep abreast of progress, you don’t have to rush out and buy every new piece of equipment that comes along. When considering a purchase, make sure you do your due diligence. Contact your Association for advice, guidelines and recommendations.

Conduct thorough research before you invest in a new technology to ensure the safety of your client and in maintaining your good reputation.

As we approach the end of the year, it is a good time to ensure that your standards and resource documents are updated. Visit www.apanetwork.com/ resources/resource-documents to access your documents or contact APAN for any assistant that you require Ph: 07 5593 0360.

APJ

SMALL BUSINESS IMMEDIATE FLOOD RELIEF PROGRAM

With the extensive floods recently in Victoria, several salons are also experiencing financial hardship. If you are a Victorian business and are experiencing hardship because of the floods the Small Business Immediate Flood Relief Program supports businesses directly affected by the Victorian flood events that commenced in October 2022. There are two streams of support available under this program:

• Immediate flood relief grant

• Business Relief Service

Businesses directly impacted by the Victorian floods that commenced in

October 2022 can access a one-off grant of $5000 to cover immediate expenses. Businesses must be located within an eligible local government area and incurred significant direct damage to their place of business, business assets, stock or equipment.

Eligible businesses can apply for the grant to cover expenses incurred from direct flood damage including for (but not limited to):

• qualified tradespeople to conduct safety inspections, repair premises and internal fittings

• equipment, materials and services needed for clean-up

• removal and disposal of debris, damaged materials or damaged stock

• equipment, stock and materials essential for immediately resuming operations.

Please read the program guidelines to determine if you qualify. Applications for this program will close at 4pm on Friday 13 January 2023 or earlier if funds are exhausted. Applications will be assessed on a first-in, first-served basis.

If you are having difficulty and need any assistance completing your application, please call the Business Victoria Hotline

Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome

on 13 22 15. The hotline operates seven days a week.

BUSINESS RELIEF SERVICE

Additionally, the government has established a free service offering oneon-one support from a local business relief adviser who will be available via telephone and on the ground to guide business owners through the available Commonwealth, state and local supports. They can also help you manage insurance and landlord issues, assess impacts and form strategies for recovery.

To access the Business Relief Service, please call the Business Victoria hotline on 13 22 15 and they will connect you with dedicated business relief advisers and support. The hotline operates seven days a week.

For full details about this program, you can also visit www.business.vic.gov.au/ grants-and-programs/small-businessimmediate-flood-relief-program APJ

premises. This will require a workplace safety plan.

At the end of the year is a perfect time to review your safety measures. Your dutyof-care to provide and maintain a safe working environment includes:

• The workplace layout: Have you recently introduce new equipment? Are they obstructing walkways and is the power supply near to the workstation? Are the power cords a hazard?

• Equipment: Are your existing equipment in good working order? Is it time to service them?

• Staff posture: Maintaining good posture is critical to the prevention of injury and fatigue. It is important to regularly review the observance of good posture in the workplace. At least annually, correct posture for bending, lifting or sitting should be reviewed.

• Ventilation and airborne contaminants: Is your workplace room temperature at a comfortable setting for the wellbeing of your staff and clients? Do you also have good ventilation? This is not only important for supporting the energy levels of your practitioners, but also to monitor any fumes form chemicals in use, or plume from laser services. If you are working in an enclosed space with no natural ventilation, it may be advisable to invest in an air purifier that also removes airborne bacteria and even viruses. Check this journal for further information: https://tevgroup.com.au/ enviroklenz

• Occupational health and safety policy: Periodically, it is important to review your state’s Council requirements for health and safety and infection control measures to ensure that the standards are maintained, including the correct storage of flammable or combustible substances, as well as the correct disposal of wastes.

CREATING

A SAFE WORKPLACE ENVIRONMENT

Every business owner has a duty of care to ensure they establish and maintain a safe work environment for themselves, their staff and the clients that visit their

• Workplace fatigue: Are you ensuring regular short breaks for you and your workers, especially those who are performing repetitive movements. Left unchecked they can contribute to carpal tunnel syndrome which can contribute to weakness and painful wrists.

• First Aid Kit: Is your first aid kit well supplied with the necessary items that may have been used?

• Personal protection equipment: Are you and your staff complying with requirements regarding the use of personal protective measures, gloves, garments and masks?

DERMALOGICA PRO RESTORE Improves Skin

Integrity

Dermalogica PRO Restore helps to prepare the skin for the summer months and party season by reducing the downtime of micro-injury treatments, while enhancing advanced procedure results. This formulation is a recovery and firming concentrate leading the way in innovation as a product used in the treatment room, but also taken home to assist further with treatment recovery. Designed to work with advanced skin treatments, Pro Restore concentrate restores the skin’s barrier function, restores its condition, helps increase firmness and brightens the skin.

Contact: 1800 659 118 Dermalogica.com.au/ become-a-stockist

DERMATONICS COPPER PEPTIDE Calming Mist

Dermatonics’ Copper Peptide Calming Mist is one of our most popular and effective products in our range, as it is excellent for rapidly calming and soothing the skin. With the well-researched peptide Cu-GHK, this unique mist is a must-have for eczema-prone, rosacea-prone and other easily sensitised skin conditions.

Contact: Dermatonics® 02 9188 8819 enquiries@dermatonics.com.au www.dermatoincs.com.au

DERMALOGIC - Power Peels

Preparing the skin for the Summer months

The Dermalogica PRO Power Peel collection can be used individually as a focused peel, combined with others in the collection to target specific concerns, or mixed for advanced applications to yield high-impact results. Each ingredient focuses on a specific aesthetic or medical skin concern – and with our unrivalled education, learn that with correct hydration and protection these peels can be used year-round with dedicated treatment protocols.

Contact: 1800 659 118 Dermalogica.com.au/become-a-stockist

EVE TAYLOR Ultra Soothing Cleanser

Renowned for her incredible high quality formulations Eve Taylor’s ULTRA SOOTHING CLEANSER delivers amazing soothing results for even the most sensitive skin. A rich creamy textured cleanser which reduces redness and irritation while nourishing, repairing, and gently cleansing the skin. With calming Colloidal Oatmeal and antiinflammatory Camellia (Green Tea Extract) this cleanser is perfect for clients with hyper-sensitive skin, or allergy-prone skin, excellent also for psoriasis and eczema skin conditions.

Contact EVE TAYLOR AUSTRALIA 1300 383 829 Tracey Cox 0448 39 0022 info@evetaylor.com.au www.evetaylor.com.au

NOTOX AGELESS GLOW Serum

A revolutionary needle-free, all-natural organic, vegan alternative to injectables. Notox Ageless Glow Serum rapidly lifts and firms the skin with a smoothing and energizing effect. The formula consists of an alchemy of Australian and marine botanicals that can deliver visible results in as soon as one hour. Ongoing use helps rebuild the skin’s architecture for long lasting improvement in skin tone for a fresher, radiant and firmer skin.

Contact: SYNTHESIS ORGANICS 02 8091 4345 info@synthesisorganics.com www.synthesisorganics.com

ISSADA EYE AMPLIFY Lash Serum

Do you suffer from fine, short, or broken lashes? Cultivate visibly fuller, thicker and longer lashes within just weeks with ISSADA Eye Amplify Lash Serum. Clinically formulated, this powerful serum uses advanced actives, peptides and nutrients to promote the vigorous growth, strengthening and conditioning the lashes. For optimal results, use daily. Visible results can be expected in just 3 - 6 weeks.

To become a stockist please call 07 3904 2288 or visit issada.com/partners

ROCCOCO BOTANICALS

Polishing cleanser

DERMATONICS® Mineral Facial Sunscreens

Dermatonics’ Mineral Facial Sunscreens are physical sunscreens, with 25% (w/w) Zinc Oxide that rate at SPF50 and are an essential part of your clients’ daily skincare routine. Our light and dewy finish with a choice of standard or tinted version, allow your clients’ to achieve consistent daily protection with their homecare routine.

Contact: Dermatonics® 02 9188 8819 enquiries@dermatonics.com.au www.dermatoincs.com.au

Abolish impurities and polish the skin to perfections through the gentle all-new power-packed enzymatic exfoliator formulated by Roccoco Botanicals. Activating the YAP and TAZ pathway of the skin, this formula stimulates the skin’s own natural stem cell production, while repairing and accelerating the skin to its optimal state. Enriched with Jojoba Beads to gently exfoliate deep within the pore while 11 other complexionperfecting actives smooth the skin, boost cellular regeneration, improve scarring, leaving the skin ultra-soft.

ROCCOCO BOTANICALS 07 3817 1429 | jacine@roccoco.com | au.roccoco.com

ROCCOCO’S

Peptide sheet mask

PROVIDE

YOUR CLIENTS WITH Enticing Gift Ideas

Christmas and holiday season is the best time to promote SPECIAL GIFT PACKS to your clients, both for their personal use or as a gift for the loved ones. MEDER Beauty Science has prepared some amazing value-added gift packs for you to promote and increase your sales this summer. Take for example, their “New Beginnings” pack containing full size Cleanser, Serum, and Moisturiser. Complementary Meder Mask, free postage, plus 2 FREE mini doses.

Contact MEDER BEAUTY SCIENCE |0466 338 844 admin@mederbeautyscience.com.au | mederbeautyscience.com.au

Experience our revolutionary, award-winning sheet mask for the ultimate in hydration and healing. Infuse the skin with moisture and a cocktail of anti-irritants and flower extracts to improve barrier function, instantly volumising the skin, and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This amazing sheet mask soothes, and calms irritated and sensitive skin, while increasing natural water reservoirs, providing sustained hydration to maintain skin youthfulness. The perfect special occasion mask for all skin types.

ROCCOCO BOTANICALS 07 3817 1429 | jacine@roccoco.com | au.roccoco.com

VITAMIN A With Sqalene and Sandalwood

This oil-based serum contains 0.2% Retinol (Vitamin A) and 1% Tocopherol (Vitamin E) in a squalene base. Retinol may reduce the signs of ageing and sun-damage. The product also contains Bisabolol and Native Sandalwood Seed Oil for their anti-inflammatory properties. Use in the evening on its own or under a moisturising cream. Avoid exposure to UV.

Contact: www.dramdermalcare.com.au | Phone Anne-Marie 0403 846 622

VITAMIN C AND KAKADU PLUM Serum

This serum contains L-Ascorbic Acid (15%), Kakadu Plum and Davidson Plum in a hydrating base. L-Ascorbic Acid is a strong antioxidant that assists in brightening and clarifying the skin and also to assist in reducing the signs of ageing. May be applied morning and evening under a moisturiser. This active product can also be diluted by mixing in a moisturiser for more sensitive skin types.

Contact Anne-Marie 0403 846 622 | www.dramdermalcare.com.au

VOLCANIC ASH Mask

NeoGenesis’ Volcanic Ash Mask is a creamy, luxurious mask that infuses the skin with naturally occurring minerals that balance, clarify and diminish breakouts for all skin types. So, what makes the Volcanic Ash Mask so unique? Niacinamide, Kaolin, and natural fruit enzymes make this ash mask feel luxurious, creamy and leaves a polished feel to the skin. Niacinamide is one of two forms of B3. It can help manage blemishes, redness, discoloration, and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

To place an order: Borka Buseska: 1300 799 415 | E: Borka@actitraining.com.au Education Consultant: Gay Wardle: 041 8708 455 | E: education@gaywardle.com

AWARD-WINNING ISSADA

Shadow Magnet

Get 24hr Eye perfection with Issada’s Perfect Prepping Pot! ISSADA Shadow Magnet is an innovative product that works like a primer to create the perfect blank canvas to apply your eye shadows and liner while actively holding (with a magnet-like strength) your eye makeup perfectly in place - no creases, just a continuously smooth, long-lasting effect. Packed with Vitamin E and Lecithin, this product also treats and protects the delicate eyelid with antioxidants to fight signs of ageing, while creating a powerful barrier between the skin and your eye shadow. This product is Vegan, paraben and gluten free.

To become a stockist please call 07 3904 2288 or visit issada.com/partners

STUDIO 10 DISCUSSES COMETIC TATTOOING –THE GOOD, THE BAD AND THE UGLY

We always see the media highlighting problems, burns and misadventures when it comes to cosmetic tattoo or laser procedures, so it was a welcoming change as Katherine McCann was recently invited by Studio 10 national breakfast TV program to be interviewed about her cosmetic tattooing work and to share some of her knowledge.

TV hosts Sarah Harris and Beau Ryan questioned Katherine on several issues with regards to this procedure, as well as what is involved with corrective work with botched work that require correction.

Katherine also invited one of her clients - Narelle Walker on whom she had performed corrective work. It was refreshing to see accurate information being shared by an industry expert, bringing a balanced perspective on options and solutions. Thank you to Katherine for shining a light for effective, professional solutions. APJ

CONFERENCE PROGRAMS FEATURED CENTER-STAGE IN 2022

As we approach the end of another year, one characteristic feature for 2022 was the return of the conference programs.

APAN Conference

APAN’s conference in July strongly featured the very latest in research findings and next-gen ingredient innovations and formulas with a focus on restoring the microbiome for both skin and gut health. The conference also highlighted that as we are

This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information

moving post-pandemic, we need to identify not just behavioral changes in consumer expectations, but also physiological changes with emerging skin manifestations and contributing factors that are central to compromised immunity and accelerated systemic inflammation.

Health and beauty have long worked hand-in-hand but as COVID-19 continues to create seismic shifts in consumer needs and expectations, the demand for personal care products and services, both topical and ingestible, that de-stress, soothe and protect as part of wider holistic wellbeing is surging. And within the burgeoning wellbeing trend, comes the sharper notion of ‘immunity’ that also requires consideration.

This year’s program featured 45- sessions delivering a comprehensive program of diverse topics including several dynamic expert panel discussions.

Non-Surgical Symposium (NSS)

This year, the NSS featured numerous lectures and workshops on injectable procedures with a focus on the more youthful global technique, while also identifying safer treatment perimeters for ongoing patient safety. New, formulations were also introduced for specific targeted facial areas, in particular for the remodeling of the lower face.

With equipment, new more sophisticated technologies promising safer and faster applications for face and body were also strong highlights at the event with several lectures presenting their capabilities and treatment protocols.

Updates on the consultation process featured a stronger emphasis on psychology as patient mental health issues are on the rise.

The 2022 ASCD Symposium

The Australasian Society of Cosmetic Dermatology (ASCD) this year featured emerging trends in Cosmetic Dermatology. The symposium featured specialised topic such as: LED – Is it too good to be true: A deep look into a superficial treatment.

• Transepidermal delivery of cosmeceuticals – What agents are safe and effective for delivery to the dermis by this exciting new advance.

• Chemical peels and equivalents: Understand how to select the most beneficial peels for many skin conditions or achieving the same results by energy-based devices in an intensive masterclass setting.

• Scarring: A look at what works what doesn’t and how to logically develop

effective treatment plans for this challenging condition.

• Superficial fillers, micro-botulinum, and stimulatory fillers: An explosion of interest with new product, new dilutions, treatment on and off the face.

2022 SKINCON

On the 25-27 November the Australian Society of Dermal Clinicians is also preparing a conference program in Melbourne. However, at the time of publishing this journal this event has not yet featured. This event will be strongly focusing on skin treatments covering several skin conditions as well as technologies.

In summary

Despite the disruption to salon and clinics over the past two years several reports have highlighted that the pandemic has taught us that beauty and what our industry has to offer, still remain at the heart of every community as it continues to bring people together APJ

RETURN POPULARITY OF LYMPHATIC DRAINAGE

Since the pandemic we are seeing a rise in inflammatory conditions and

AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN

autoimmune disorders that are also impacting the lymphatic system. When the lymphatic system slows down it can become stagnant contributing to lymph infections. One modality that can be very beneficial is lymphatic drainage.

Manual lymphatic drainage techniques manipulate the skin and muscle to gently pump fluid along the lymph vessels to the lymph nodes. It is a specialised technique that can be used when treating the face, neck and shoulders, or even the whole body. For those who have receive professional training in this technique, it is highly recommended that you consider ways of introducing it systematically within your treatment protocols. Here are just some of the benefits of lymphatic drainage and why it is gain popularity once again:

• Regulating fluid levels in the body

• Filtering harmful bacteria and toxins

• Absorbing fats from our diets

• Improving circulation

• Increasing immunity

• Improving metabolic rate

If you have not been trained in this technique, seek professional training, as it very different to standard massage movements. Lymphatic drainage is also excellent for cellulite as well as lymphedema. You can also provide a full body lymphatic drainage through pressor technology equipment. One of the best currently available is the SORISA

Presor-03. Contact APAN to access a supplier. Other techniques that support lymphatic drainage are dry brushing in the direction of lymphatic flow. APJ

AUSTRALIAN SKINCARE PREDICTED TO CONTINUE TO GROW IN 2023

According to a recent research report conducted by Mordor Intelligence the Australian Skin Care Market will continue to grow in 2023 and projected to register a CAGR of 5.26% during the forecast period of 2022-2027.

The study reported that the highest consumer focus was to counteract dehydration or blemishers as a result of the pandemic. While there was a rise

This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information

in DIY treatments over the lockdown months, consumers are returning to salon/aesthetic procedures to address persistent skin condition and to once again access anti-ageing treatments to address fine lines, wrinkles, even out skin tone and for pigmentation removal.

Australian consumers are increasingly drawn toward the claims of advanced products and the presence of active ingredients in them in the right concentration, the report said.

Technological advancements are thought to be the major reason behind the growth of the professional skincare market. This is leading to consumer willingness to buy a wider range of complex-formulations and natural green products. The development of fusion and environment-friendliness has raised the demand in the industry. APJ

PRODUCT INNOVATIONS

EFFICACY OF LASERS AND LIGHT SOURCES IN LONGTERM

HAIR REDUCTION

In a study released electronically, preprint, undertook randomised controlled trials of a systematic review of five studies (223 patients) with follow-up periods greater than or equal to the length of one complete hair growth cycle.

The most crucial aspect for success is a complete understanding of laser parameters, specifically for individual patients. Then an understanding of the hair growth cycles is estimated. This is approximately six months for face; seven months for axilla, eight months for forearm, seven months for pelvic area, one year for buttocks and one year for calf/thighs (Laughlin, & Dudley, 2000).

As you probably know, hair removal lasers range significantly from 694 nm Ruby to 755 nm Alexandrite, 800–810 nm Diode and 1064 nm neodymium: yttriumaluminium-garnet (Nd: YAG).

Researchers found that the average long-term hair reduction reported for (Nd: YAG) laser ranged from 30 to 73.61% reduction rate after a complete hair growth cycle; Alexandrite laser ranged from 35 to 84.25%, and Diode laser ranged from 32.5 to 69.2%.

In all three devices, the most significant long-term reduction was observed from trials targeting leg hair (1-year growth cycle) and the lowest from targeting facial hair (6-month growth cycle).

Intense pulsed light (IPL) produced an average long-term hair reduction of 52.7–27%; the most negligible reduction was observed from targeting the face area and the greatest from targeting the axillary region (7-month growth cycle).

The research did not demonstrate the superiority of one laser or light device over another, with many variations in fluences, pulse durations, and spot sizes used between the various studies.

Research and Scientific New Developments

In every issue of the journal, Terry Everitt our scientific educator, conveys a few items of scientific interest. In italics, are his thoughts on the subject matter of the research study.

Instead, the significant difference is greater long-term hair reduction observed on body sites with longer hair growth cycles.

Krasniqi, A., McClurg, D. P., Gillespie, K. J. & Rajpara, S. (2022): Efficacy of lasers and light sources in long-term hair reduction: a systematic review, Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, [Online pre-print] DOI: 10.1080/14764172.2022.2075899

Laughlin, S. A., & Dudley, D. K. (2000). Long-Term hair removal using a 3-Millisecond alexandrite laser. Journal of Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery, 2, 83–88. doi:10.1177/120347540000400 208.23.

The most obvious success of hair reduction are the phases of hair growth in anagen, catagen and telogen.

Hair at different body sites grows at different rates with differing anagen: telogen ratios, with significant variation in the anagen phase.

Hair-cycle lengths of specific sites should be considered when evaluating the long-term efficacy of lasers and light devices in hair reduction for problematic hair. APJ

The pathogenicity of rosacea is still not sufficiently explained, so its symptoms define it and not its cause (Forton, 2022). It is known that Demodex mites play a significant role in the pathogenesis of papulopustular rosacea (PPR).

Demodex mites with associated T-cell exhaustion could be central to the cause of rosacea with papulopustules (PPR), as Demodex proliferation seems integral to a multifactored causal network directing the occurrence and severity of inflammatory symptoms.

Forton (2022) study found more than 98% of patients with PPR presented much higher Demodex densities than patients with healthy skin.

The study author wrote that Demodex mites might cause opposite components in host immunity: an immunosuppressive action favouring its proliferation and a defence immune response to eliminate the mite.

It appears there are two opposing factions of the Demodex. A defensive immune response aimed at eliminating the mite and an immunosuppressive activity to favour its proliferation.

explain the favourable influence that the altered vascular background of rosacea seems to exert on Demodex proliferation

The deeper in the skin the Demodex mites, the less likely they are to be detected, but they ignite deeper inflammation resulting in more prominent papules.

Forton, F.M. (2022). Rosacea, an infectious disease: why rosacea with papulopustules should be considered a demodicosis. A narrative review. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 36(7),987-1002. doi:10.1111/jdv.18049

Current data appears to support the pathogenic role of Demodex in PPR, with the proliferation of the Demodex mite appearing to be a necessary cause inside a complex network in which multiple cofactors interact to influence disease development.

T-cell exhaustion describes terminally differentiated, exhausted T-cells (TCF1) response to chronic antigen stimulation.

Did you know that benzyl benzoate (under differing trade names) is OTC and effective against Demodex? APJ

DEMODEX

MITES

WITH T-CELL EXHAUSTION IN ROSACEA PATIENTS WITH PAPULOPUSTULES

The study found the initial defensive immune response is likely diverted towards benefit for the mite via T-cell exhaustion induced by the immunosuppressive properties of vascular endothelial growth factor, which may also

MANAGEMENT OF ROSACEA IN THE SKIN OF COLOUR

A panel of dermatologists in the USA authored a series of statements on the prevalence, diagnosis, and management of rosacea in patients of colour, including comments on using cleansers and moisturisers. From 14 draft statements, a total of five statements were put forth.

• While data is limited, studies suggest that rosacea is more common in patients with darker skin than previously reported.

• A history of “skin sensitivity” should alert dermatologists to the possibility of rosacea in patients with skin of colour.

• To avoid underdiagnosis, dermatologists should have a high “index of suspicion” of rosacea in patients with skin of colour presenting with facial erythema,

papules, and pustules.

• The role of skin care in rosacea treatment is poorly studied. Quality moisturisers may improve symptoms when used in tandem with other therapies. Specific skin cleansers may not be suitable for patients with rosacea the study concluded.

• Patients should be educated on the best ways to mitigate their rosacea.

While darker skin types are more difficult to see minor erythema changes, this study showed the importance of careful consultation with those with darker skin. You must carefully assess clients who present with redness, irritation, and a self-reported history of “sensitive skin” with concentrated lighting and blanching of the skin. A dermoscopy would support accurate diagnosis during an examination.

High-quality moisturisers repair skin barrier function, enhance hydration, and reduce irritation. Conversely, specific cleansers—particularly those with harsh surfactants—may trigger or worsen rosacea.

Significant risk factors also included deep cleansing habits, overuse of cleansing tools, and daily exfoliating that showed a progression of the symptoms from flushing to erythema. Papules, pustules, and telangiectasia, yet appropriate skin care did significantly help, but we all knew that anyhow.

Alexis, A., Woolery-Lloyd, H., Andriessen, A., Desai, S., Han, G., & Rodriguez, D. (2022). Improving rosacea outcomes in skin of color patients: a review on the nuances in the treatment and the use of cleansers and moisturisers. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 21(6),574-580. doi: 10.36849/JDD.6838.

Rosacea is an inflammatory dermatosis with at least a 10 per cent prevalence reported among white adults and limited data in nonwhite populations, although seen as 2-5% in the USA.

Cleansers need to be near physiologic pH and a syndet (synthetic cleanser).

Moisturisers used for rosacea-affected skin are preferably rich in ceramides, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, niacinamide, and free fatty acids and without alpha-hydroxy acids. Sun protection is always vital. APJ

FIBRILLAR COLLAGEN MICROPARTICLES

This is an excellent headline that I have already seen misrepresented in the media. We know that collagen has been used in skin creams for decades with claims that it improves the skin’s structure. These are always false claims as the molecular size is just too big to penetrate the epidermis.

To overcome the challenge of poor penetration of the collagen fibres, formulation developers use partially hydrolysed collagen (i.e., amino acids or peptides) that can penetrate the skin. Sounds good, except native collagen properties differ from hydrolysed collagen.

After hydrolysis denaturation, the triplehelix structure of collagen changes to a random coil form due to the dissociation of the hydrogen bonds, thus making it unusable.

These researchers micronised (around 120 nm) collagen (marine-based) fibres into a cream, applied it to skin samples, and found that such did penetrate the stratum corneum to the stratum lucidum/ granulosum. It is important to note this was Molva fish, not human collagen, which was used as a control and as expected, remained on top of the corneum.

While similar, human collagen is not the same as marine or plant collagen, so we remain without a topical collagen cream that penetrates the corneum. What the research does brings the possibility much closer to realisation.

Lubart, R., Yariv,I., Fixler, D., & ; Lipovsky, A (2022). A Novel Facial Cream Based on Skin-penetrable Fibrillar Collagen Microparticles. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 15(5):59–64.

Research and Scientific New Developments

In every issue of the journal, Terry Everitt our scientific educator, conveys a few items of scientific interest. In italics, are his thoughts on the subject matter of the research study.

The investigated facial collagen cream appeared to allow the administration of fully functional collagen fibres into the deeper layers of the human skin samples. However, these marine collagen fibres are smaller than native collagen and can break down more quickly in the skin. It remains to be seen how the collagen nanoparticles could be made into active collagen helixes. APJ

AUSTRALIAN COSMETIC SURGERY SUBJECT TO NEW REGULATIONS

Cosmetic surgery regulation will be tightened following extensive media coverage and an independent review highlighting unsafe practices and misleading advertising.

AHPRA and the Medical Board have accepted all 16 recommendations by the independent review of regulating medical practitioners who perform cosmetic surgery. AHPRA is investing $4.5 million to fund a Cosmetic Surgery Enforcement Unit that will:

• Set clear standards

• Crackdown on advertising

• Tackle under-reporting

• Write to every doctor in Australia

• Strengthen patients’ voice

• Set up a confidential hotline

• Reinforce and strengthen existing guidelines

• Changing the way, we deal with complaints

• Working with all health authorities

AHPRA has published Cosmetic procedures: #besafefirst for the public in helping to make informed decisions. APJ

REVIEW OF TOPICAL VITAMIN C DERIVATIVES AND THEIR EFFICACY

Vitamin C remains a prevalent ingredient for its many biological functions in maintaining and improving skin health, including as an antioxidant, boosting collagen production (promoting gene expression and hydroxylase enzymes cofactor that crosslink, stabilising collagen molecules) and improving discolouration (tyrosinase inhibitor) in the skin.

Many challenges remain with topical application ensuring efficient skin penetration and entry into epidermal cells; hence many derivatives or chemically modified versions of vit C are produced, but do they work?

L-ascorbic acid (AA) is the most biologically active form of vit C; however, this comes with multiple concerns for topical application, including relative instability and poor penetration, esterified derivatives of AA have been developed in an attempt to enhance penetration and improve stability.

This excellent paper reviews some popular variations encountered, including Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium L-AScorbyl-2-Phosphate, Disodium Isoste Aryl 2- O-L-Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbic 2-Phosphate 6 -Palmitate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ascorbyl 2- Glucoside, Ascorbyl 6 -Palmitate and 3- O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid.

For each, the authors give the chemical and functional ingredient breakdown and a summary of efficacy, along with previous study findings, all of which is too long for this post.

The study also contains a quiz to test your knowledge of such ingredients, with one question being:

Which vitamin C derivative has been shown to have potentially harmful effects? They present four ingredients:

• Ascorbyl 6-Palmitate

• Ascorbyl 2-Glucoside

• Ascorbic 2-Phosphate 6-Palmitate

• Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Enescu, C., Bedford, L., Potts, G., & Fahs, F. (2022). A review of topical vitamin C derivatives and their efficacy. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 21, 2349–2359. DOI: 10.1111/jocd.14465

This excellent solid paper cuts through much confusion that marketers of Vitamin C derivatives have created. As you already know, not all Vitamin C-based ingredients are the same or have the same qualities or efficacy.

By the way, Ascorbyl 6-Palmitate is the correct answer.

TRETINOIN PRECURSORS AND TRETINOIN EFFICACY

Retinoids are the standard for the topical management of photodamaged skin; however, a significant disadvantage is the localised irritation it provides.

The precursor Retinol has become the mainstay of non-medical treatment, yet there remain irritancy concerns; hence multiple metabolites have been produced via oxidation. Processes used in ‘cosmeceuticals’ such as retinyl esters like retinyl acetate and palmitate are widely available.

Effectiveness of such ingredients primarily rests on the ability of procollagen I synthesis and expression suppression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs, e.g., MMP1, MMP3, andMMP9) to provide collagen enhancement.

This randomised, double-blind, singlecentre, parallel-arm explorative study contrasted two products; a triple tretinoin precursors (TTP) containing 1% retinol, 0.05% retinyl acetate and 0.05% retinyl palmitate) and 0.02% tretinoin in treating photodamaged skin and found

no significant differences in week 24 measurements of photoageing.

Interestingly the study found that despite TTP having a higher concentration of tretinoin equivalents than RA(1.1%vs0.02%), they observed that patients receiving TTP experienced erythema six times less frequently than patients treated with RA. (p. 885).

At week 24, there was no significant difference in photoageing scores among those treated with TTP vs RA. No significant changes were detected in procollagen I, MMP1, MMP3, or MMP9 mRNA between the two groups.

While a relatively small study showed that the combination of non-drug forms works more effectively than the drug form with less irritation.

Chien, A., Kim, D., Cheng, N., Shin, J., Leung, S., Nelson, A., Zang, J., MD, Suh, H., Rainer, B., Wallis, L., Okoye, G., Loss, M., & Kang, S. (2022). Biomarkers of Tretinoin Precursors and Tretinoin Efficacy in Patients With Moderate to Severe Facial Photodamage A Randomized Clinical Trial. JAMA Dermatology, 158(8),879–886. doi:10.1001/ jamadermatol.2022.1891

This study adds to the understanding that a higher dosage is not necessarily better, and the search for a stable, effective ingredient continues to be searched for. Individual lower amounts of mixed ingredients are a big area in cosmetic development which will herald products with such formulations – multiple aspects and molecular forms of essentially the same ingredients, yet providing more significant effect than one ingredient in lower amounts.

A TTP, baseline treatment B TTP, after treatment

C RA, baseline D RA, after treatment

THE POWER OF KNOWLEDGE

In a time of turbulence and change, it is truer than ever that KNOWLEDGE IS POWER.

- John F. Kennedy

APAN is pleased to announce that in collaborations with several accredited institutions we have expanded our professional development courses available through online study.

Additionally, each course has been reviewed and has been allocated CPD Points acknowledging ongoing professional development.

There is no better way in boosting your confidence and improving your business position than through structured and credible education.

Courses Include

• Pandemic Infection Control

• Pandemic Clinical Infection Control

• Safe Use of Topical Anaesthetic

• Dr Setterfield’s Skin Needling Course

• And much more …

• Increase client retention

• Build and strengthen confidence

• Expand your recognition and credibility

• Re-energise your staff • Improve efficiency

• Enhance your competitive advantage