Winter Volume 41 2019
Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD.
APJ 1
APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE Providing you with unbeatable value FOLLOWING THE SUCCESS of the new conference design on the Gold Coast, our Melbourne event will also deliver a rich and diverse educational program. The new format will move from 6 SPEAKERS to 16 SPEAKERS covering a diverse range of topics include PROBLEM-SOLVING segments, providing delegates with exceptional value. Here is what you can expect: The conference will consist of SIX 30-MINUTE LECTURES on topics relating to: •
Scientific advances
•
Technology
•
Regulations
•
Ingredients and Skin Science
•
Business strategies
•
Consumer trends
This year we are including additional 15-MINUTES lectures with a focus on PROBLEM-SOLVING SOLUTIONS providing you with the latest strategies and technologies for achieving leading treatment outcomes and results. The new format will provide you with a stronger twopronged approach: •
Global education on the latest scientific advances
•
Practical solutions you can immediately implement
These two segments will deliver an excellent balance of the very latest in education, as well as techniques and technologies for practical solutions to some of the more challenging problems you encounter in your practice. Meet some of the industry’s leading experts in a vibrant and dynamic event and share a day of learning and fun with other like-minded professionals. A truly deluxe experience awaits you as the Grand Hyatt will provide us with a beautiful scrumptious lunch to make you day extra special. This is a professional development certified event. Delegates will receive 6 CPD Points for attend together with their Certificate. This is just a one-day event. Be first to learn the latest developments. We know this year will be an exciting and memorable experience for you. We can’t wait to share it with you. GRAND HYATT 123 Collins St, Melbourne. REGISTER TODAY! Ph: 07 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com www.apanconf.com
APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE 2019 If you are serious about your profession and business this event will provide you the industry’s leading and the most up-to-date information. WHO SHOULD ATTEND: • Aestheticians • Dermal therapists • Dermal clinicians • Cosmetic nurses • Cosmetic tattooists • Trainers College principals and staff • Student • Industry suppliers
New Format, greater value! GRAND HYATT
123 Collins St, Melbourne VIC
This is an industry-certified Conference Educational Program. Attend and gain 6 CPD POINTS towards your professional development as an APRAP and CTARP registered practitioner.
MELBOURNE Monday August 12 07 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com
fi
@apan.page #apanconf
IN THIS ISSUE WINTER VOLUME 41. 2019 APAN INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS
38
8-9
58-65
10-13
110-115
52-54
116-121
CEO’S REPORT COVER STORY PRODUCT INNOVATIONS
REGULATIONS, STANDARDS AND EDUCATION 20
88-89
38-40
93
BOOK REVIEW: THE CONCISE GUIDE TO DERMAL NEEDLING
STATIN AND THE ROLE OF CHOLESTEROL IN THE BODY
78-81
26-29
APAN GOLD COAST CONFERENCE WRAP UP
44-45
COSMETEX 2019 – WHAT WAS FEATURED THIS YEAR
26
46
SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 49
PMU CONFERENCE – THE CONTEXTUAL INTEGRATION OF ART AND SCIENCE
108-109
PMU CONFERENCE – THE CONTEXTUAL INTEGRATION OF ART AND SCIENCE
22-24
84-87
46-48
90-91
THE INTRODUCTION OF NON-ABLATIVE REJUVENATION HIFU COSMETIC FORULATIONS AND THE ISSUE OF STABILITY
56-57
PEPTIDES FOR THE SKIN – NEW RESEARCH FINDINGS PART 1 VIEWING THE SKIN WITH THE HELP OF TECHNOLOGY
98-100
THE VIRTUES OF CEDARWOOD ESSENTIAL OIL
THE INCREDIBLE CAPABILITIES OF HYALURONIC ACID IN IMPROVING AGEING SKIN
68
106-107
EFFECTIVE INGREDIENTS AGAINST WINTER DEHYDRATION
74-75
SEA BUCKTHORN BERRY FOR SKIN RENEWAL AND INTERNAL HEALTH APJ 4
BUSINESS TIPS
EXTEND YOUR KNOWLEDGE IN THE SAFE USE OF TOPICAL NAESTHETICS DEVELOPMENT PROGRAM (CPD)
SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES MELBOURNE APAN CONFERENCE PROGRAM
SCIENTIFIC NEWS
MEALS AND REST BREAKS – WHAT ARE MY EMPLOYEE’S ENTITLEMENTS?
GLOGAL EDUCATIONAL ADVANCES – NETHERLANDS MOVES SKIN THERAPY TO A DEGREE QUALIFICATION
14-17
AESTHETICS BULLETIN
GETTING THE MOST FROM YOUR MASSAGE – IS PAIN NEEDED TO GAIN?
51
BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 18-19
KEEP CLIENTS LOYAL WHILE INCREASING THEIR AVERAGE SPEND
30-32
76-77
LET’S FALL IN LOVE WITH SELF-DISCIPLINE
82-83
SPOTLIGHT ON SKINFAKTOR
CAUSE VERSUS SYMPTOM – DISCOVERING THE WHY FACTOR
36
92
GROW AND SUSTAIN YOUR INJECTABLE BUSINESS
42-43
SM HAS COME OF AGE AND IT REQUIRES SOCIAL MEDIAL EDUCATION
PROTECTING YOUR PROFITS FROM THEFT IN THE WORKPLACE
94-95
50-51
ARAP REGISTRATION
BEAUTY STARTS AS AN INSIDE JOB
TWO RISING STARS
101
20 CONSIDAERATIONS BEFORE CHOOSING A COSMETIC TATTOO ARTISTS
70-72
104-105
ACHIEVING TRANSFORMATIONAL OUTCOMES
HOW TO ACHIEVE CREATIVE SELF-EVALUATION
73
APAN’S STANDARDS RECOGITION (PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT (CPD) PROGRAM
GAIN NATIONAL RECOGNITION FOR YOUR COSMETIC TATTOO QUALIFICATIONS
Printed For Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network ACN: 136 987 169 ABN: 25 136 987 169
Typesetting & Graphics Angus Thompson TEV Group Pty Ltd
Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre QLD 4218
Advertising & Marketing Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com Fax:(07) 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre QLD 4218 Australia Publisher TEV Group Pty Ltd Design & Production Artwork and Editorial TEV Group Pty Ltd Unit 7D 76-84 Robina Town Centre Drive, Robina QLD 4226 Australia Phone: (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com Fax:(07) 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423
Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt - Education Features Wendy Neely - PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose Scientific Content Caroline Nelson - Business Features National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Chris Testa Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Carole Jackson Julia Grinberg ISSN: 1836-9812 Pint Post Approved [100000257] Circulation 6900
102-103
EDUCATIONAL INNOVATION – BRIDGING THE GAP BETWEEN HEALTHCARE AND AESTHETIC PRACTITIONERS
66-67
Editor Katherine McCann (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com
122-123
Winter Volume 41 2019
Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD.
Front Cover Factor Medical info@factormedicalaustralia.com 0447 775 549 For further information see pages 10-13
APJ 1
The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations. APJ 5
EDITOR’S NOTE Katherine McCann
WHAT AN AMAING year it has been so far! Our first conference on the Gold Coast this year was a great hit with the new format delivering an educational standard second to none. Catching up with friends and colleagues was so much fun. There is nothing like a face-to-face encounter with like-minded and amazing people. It gives me a real thrill, while a solid day of incredible education is always so inspirational, boosting my confidence like nothing else can. This year our expanded educational program had so much more to offer, with a fabulous array of diverse content - there was something there for everyone. The program had a great flow and tempo, maintaining everyone’s attention as leading experts presented the latest scientific advances and new innovations that are now defining our industry. Once again, this year, the chef at the Legends Mantra outdid himself with his incredible fresh and mouth-watering food. I am told they pinched him from Versace’s hotel and I can assure you the standard of food continues to rise each year. Moving on to August the new
conference format will feature in Melbourne this time at the beautifully-appointed Grand Hyatt in Collins St. You can expect an equally exciting and diverse program, so if you missed the first one, make sure you attend the Melbourne event that will be featured on Monday 12th August. As many of you know, my other professional passion is cosmetic tattooing, so I am also particularly excited that this year APAN will be launching its Inaugural Cosmetic Tattooing conference – PMU Conference promises to be a leading educational event that will feature Contextual Integration of Art and Science. The event will be held on the Gold Coast on Monday 23rd September at the Legends Mantra on the Gold Coast. This event promises to address thought-provoking information on several levels – technical, artistry, science, education and regulations. This will truly be an event with a difference. The reason that we have chosen the Gold Coast is because the weather will be glorious at that time of the year, the location is amazing - right on the beach front, and accommodation for a deluxe room is just $115 per night – so it will not break the budget. Also, the cost of attending the event will be so reasonable, everyone will be able to afford it. Please see page 49 for further details and if you are a Cosmetic Tattooist, or you have trained in microblading, this is event is for you. This is the first time that Cosmetic Tattooing will feature such a diverse educational program so I look forward to seeing many of you there. It is important to remember that Cosmetic Tattooing is not just an art, it is also a science. From an educational point of view, when the Beauty Training Package was up for review, we have put forward a submission to remove it from the Diploma of Beauty Therapy as Cosmetic Tattooing deserves to be a stand-alone qualification, so the qualification requirements will substantially change. It therefore pays to be kept up-to-date with both the qualification changes as well as techniques and regulatory overviews. Education can be so liberating. Let’s face it, it is the catalyst to boost your confidence and allow us to contextualise what we do, constantly improving our outcomes and growing our reputation as experts in our field. Once again, our journal will provide you with incredible article to keep you at the forefront of advances that are happening in the industry. Highly committed and vigilant to your progress, APAN is the go-to organisation that has your back. As for APJ, I challenge you to find more comprehensive educational content in any similar publication within our industry. I do hope to see you at our next event. Stay well and don’t forget to celebrate your achievements. The world is a better place because of who you are and what you do.
fi
@apan.page
k.mccann@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com APJ 6
OUR REGULAR APJ CONTRIBUTERS TERRY EVERITT Terry Everitt is regarded as a ‘Master Skincare Professional’ due to his extensive knowledge in the art and science of skincare. A very competent educator and regular lecturer on aesthetic and medical conferences where he presents up-to-date information from an evidence-based scientific perspective. Terry is the Director of Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd. To contact Terry you can email him at aestheticeducators@gmail.com.
CAROLINE NELSON Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert with over 40 years industry experience. She specialises and is passionate in helping clinics and spas develop their brand, improve productivity, and increase bottom-line profit. To learn more about her step-by-step program for salon spa success visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com or phone 041 0600 440.
GAY WARDLE Gay Wardle is a well-known multi-awarding winning industry expert and a renowned lecturer who conducts advanced skin analysis training for businesses and their staff on all issue pertaining to skin science. If you would like you and your staff to undertake training with Gay please contact Gay on 0418 708 455 or book online at www.gaywardle.com.au. You can also email her on gay@m-da.com.au.
JACINE GREENWOOD Jacine Greenwood is an internationally recognised educator who is known within the industry for her up-to-date knowledge and her ability to deliver training in an easy to understand method. Jacine holds six Diplomas, including a Diploma of Cosmetic Chemistry and a Bachelor of Nursing. Her knowledge is highly respected in the cosmetic industry. With over 22 years experience in the industry and a background of cosmetic formulation, Jacine has an immense knowledge of current trends in research and new developments in the industry. Contact her on 07 3807 1429 or email jacine@roccoco.com.au.
DR ZAC TURNER Dr Zac Turner has a broad medical background specialising in regenerative and aesthetic medicine. Aesthetically, Dr Zac feels that a natural look is best, and truly believes that his ‘less-is-more’ approach. Dr Zac is involved in both the men’s health and preventative health space. He sees prevention and body optimisation as the ultimate way to prevent chronic disease, obesity, and many other conditions. He has owned and is currently involved with clinics in the holistic health arena and believes that through an holistic assessment of someone’s health we can enable them to live longer, healthier, and happier. Contact Dr Zac by Email: zac@drzac.co.
TRISH HAMMOND Trish Hammond is an award-winning blog and social media expert and the director of Plastic Surgery Hub. She is renowned for her skilful writing and interviews in all facets of the social media space. Her company specialises in the Aesthetics, Cosmetic Surgery and Cosmetic Medicine industry sectors for which she provides personalised and comprehensive services to help businesses communicate powerfully, grow their brand and capture new clients and patients. If you would like to speak to Trish about your blogging needs please contact her on 0429 264 811 or Email info@plasticsurgeryhub.com.au.
APJ 7
Knowledge alone is not enough, what is needed is a convergence of knowledge that brings together in a powerful way, skill and knowledge delivered through a motivation of genuine compassion and care for the individual that you are servicing.
Tina Viney A message from the CEO
AS THE CEO of APAN when I am not sure which way to go, I revert to my three-fold criteria:
in our comfort-zone. True growth is based on two fundamental and intrinsic elements:
•
Will my decision and actions provide better protection for the industry?
•
Nurture that supports, appreciates and respects our own uniqueness
•
Will it provide a robust expression and adaptation of standards?
•
A healthy degree of challenge to constantly push us forward towards growth
•
Will it provoke the thought-process and encourage selfgovernance and self-regulation?
Growth never happens when we are consistently positioned APJ 8
In the rhythm of our daily activities, whether practitioners or business owners, we are confronted with challenges that we need to better manage or resolve. Meanwhile, our profession
is moving with a stronger alliance to health practices. The rising issues of client/patient safety and longer-lasting results is pivotal to client loyalty and our on-going business growth. Technology is also rapidly advancing, with the introduction of new modalities presented to us for consideration, often well before they are included in a qualification. If we are to maintain our competitive pace in the market and meet with the growing demand of today’s client/patient expectations, we need to make critical decisions in choosing technologies that are safe, while mastering efficacious techniques to ensure we successfully move forward. But how do we determine our choices and benchmark whether the standard of training presented is just clever marketing, or has the capacity to deliver safe practices? THE RISE OF THE AESTHETICS EDUCATIONAL CONFERENCES Every professional industry – particularly those that deliver human services, host independent educational and networking conferences by their leading industry bodies. These events, while also supported by reputable companies that provide products and services, have as their key aim to deliver valuable, objective, scientific education in research finding, as well as new advances in technologies and techniques. Whatever modality you practice the best way to determine the credibility of your technologies and practices is to benchmark your information and knowledge against independent scientific evidence-based research. While supplier-based education can provide valuable education, supporting events hosted by industry bodies can provide education that is a notch above commercially-supported data and this information is invaluable to your credibility. In a bid to provide you with greater value, this year APAN expanded its conference program moving from six to 16 speakers. The feedback was extremely favourable and we intend to continue our next event in Melbourne with the same format. Our programs are carefully planned to provide a balance of topics that cover updates on scientific research findings, technological advances, ingredient science, business and regulatory compliance issues. Additionally, we introduce problem-solving solutions through innovative protocols and techniques and these segments were also considered extremely valuable by practitioners and business owners who attended. These events provide a wealth of knowledge delivered with passion and inspiration. As an industry, we are starting to see the rise of conference programs as part of the standard industry landmark. While there is much information that can be shared, or accessed on-line, there is nothing more rewarding than a live, face-toface industry event. A lot of work goes into planning these conference programs and we do encourage you to make it your priority to attend at least one each year. It will not only revolutionise your thinking, it will also build your confidence and strengthen your expertise in your profession. In this issue of APJ we are featuring several conference programs, not just our own. These are events that we also attend because we practice what we preach. As an industry body we invest consistently in staying up-to-date with progress. In that way, our advice and industry consultation that we provide our members with on a personal level is based on sound, credible information that you can trust.
THE ISSUE OF WISDOM, ETHICS AND SELF-GOVERNANCE In my open speech at the Gold Coast Conference I presented the demographic challenges in doing business in Australia. Statistics confirm that in the first year of setting up a small business in Australia 33% will fail, by the second year 50% will fail and by the 5th year 75% will fail. There are many reasons for this phenomenon, however, there is also a demographic issue and here it is: In 2019 the latest Australian population figures recorded are 25.09 million. On the other hand, our land mass is recorded as 7,706 million km². Comparatively, Europe has a land mass of 3,483 million km² and a population of 743,049 million. In other words, if you were trying to set up businesses in Europe you would have less than half the space for a competitor to set up business near you, but a consumer population of almost 300% more than Australia. What that means is that in Australia we have the very real threat of oversupply. We are now seeing this with the rise of the many franchises, not just in our industry, but also in other industries such as coffeeshop franchises that are currently experiencing hardships because there are just too many per capita. Within our service-based industry when there is oversupply, consumers have substantial choices and what they look for is not just skilfully delivered treatments, they are also looking for that something extra – the WHY you are doing what you are doing. Is it just a job for you, or are you motivated by a real passion that will drive you to go beyond standing policies and procedures and seek to find the better way of achieving even greater results because you genuinely care for them. Behaviour like this doesn’t just make people feel a little better, it actually improves the quality of patient or client care and enables a clinic or a salon to run well. Now, not every practitioner may act like this, but those who do and consider kindness, care, and empathy as essential parts of their job will stand out, even though their job description may not contain one word about the human factor as part of the service delivery. The reason that the WHY is important is that it will give you the moral will to do what is right for others, and it will also drive you to find the moral skill to figure out how to do it better and to figure out what doing right means. There is a growing body of research that is pointing to the importance of combining technical skill with wisdom, ethics and self-governance in order to stand out in an ever-growing competitive market of experts who are vying for the same clients as you. Knowledge alone is not enough, what is needed is a convergence of knowledge that brings together in a powerful way, skill and knowledge delivered through a motivation of genuine compassion and care for the individual that you are servicing. Achieving this is both an art and a science, but mastering these attributes will enable you to rise above the ordinary and be recognised for your own brand of genius. It is these attributes that we aim to refine and bring together at our APAN Conference programs this year. If you haven’t booked yet please do so. We have an amazing program for you. We promise you that you will be forever grateful you came. We are committed to your on-going success.
APJ 9
COVERSTORY
THE NEW METHOD OF DELIVERY THAT COULD REVOLUTIONISE COSMETIC PROCEDURES What is AQUAGOLD®
AQUAGOLD® FINE TOUCH™ Factor Medical Australia launched itself into the Australian & New Zealand medical device market with the innovative AQUAGOLD® fine touch™ by Aquavit Pharmaceuticals, Inc. AQUAGOLD® fine touch™, the first of its kind, has patented microchannelling technology that is designed to painlessly and effectively deliver bioactive compounds into the skin, avoiding common complications associated with traditional techniques. AQUAGOLD® fine touch™ is not a replacement for traditional muscle relaxant and dermal filler treatments that are injected into muscles and subcutaneous areas of the face. AQUAGOLD® is a modality on its own as a deep dermal micro-injection or as the finishing touch to add on to skin rejuvenation treatments. There are other machines that can combine neuromodulators and dermal fillers for skin injections, due to the nature of these machines and devices, the patient may be left with downtime, bleeding and bruising, and a lengthy appointment when including time for topical anaesthetic. This is where AQUAGOLD® has found its niche. AQUAGOLD®has experienced rapid growth in the US and it’s no wonder why; today’s social lifestyle does not allow patients to have time off work nor do patients want to use their precious weekend or holidays for recovery time post skin treatments. Factor Medical Australia saw a gap in the Australian and New Zealand Aesthetic Market, for a results based, fully customisable, zero down time, zero consumables, high impact results treatment. APJ 10
AQUAGOLD® fine touch™ is a patented gold-plated micro-injection system that painlessly delivers custom solutions into the skin at the ideal 600-micron depth, using micro-needles to reach the dermis. This sterile single-use disposable applicator contains a reservoir that can be filled with ingredients tailored to your patients’ specific skin needs – such as micro-quantities of neuromodulators and dermal fillers, vitamins, pigment inhibitors, enzymes, peptides and PRP – which are then applied gently in to the surface of the skin.
DR DAVIN LIM DERMATOLOGIST
AQUAGOLD® FINE TOUCH™
A report from Dr Davin Lim – Cutis Clinic & AQUAGOLD® fine touch™ The new AQUAGOLD® fine touch™ is a great delivery system for tailored treatments with its ability to be combined with other injectable procedures as the finishing touch. Research has even shown that the use of dermal filler and diluted neuromodulators can effectively treat scar repair, skin rejuvenation and rosacea. Overall, I do believe this device gives a much more accurate delivery and feel when compared to previous traditional micro needling devices. What makes it even better is the fact that it requires no downtime for patients, along with a nil to low-level of pain. Many of my experienced colleagues in the US, including Jason Emer from California and Steve Weiner from Florida, have already been using this for the past few years and you can definitely see why. One risk to be aware of however, is the counterfeits of AQUAGOLD® fine touch™. The ones you find on eBay and Alibaba. These needles may break off in the skin and cause infection due to lack of sterility. So the take-home message, don't buy these products online!
DR DAVIN LIM APPROVED "AQUAGOLD® is a very elegant way of providing a no downtime procedure, as previous generations of micro-needling devices such as RF and hand held devices includes much more bleeding and required down-time."
In conclusion, AQUAGOLD® fine touch™ is a very elegant way of providing a no down-time procedure, as previous generations of micro-needling devices such as RF and hand held devices includes much more bleeding and required down-time. I am looking forward to using this device in my new clinic - Cutis Clinic, opening in late July 2019. Set to be the most bespoke clinic in Australia, the clinic will include cutting edge medical design, and the latest and greatest devices. Myself along with other experienced doctors and nurses will also be treating patients from all around the world, giving them the best results possible. Stay connected by finding Dr Davin Lim on social media. Instagram: @cliniccutis Facebook: Cutis Clinic
APJ 11
FACTOR MEDICAL AUSTRALIA AQUAGOLD® FINE TOUCH™
Why are the AQUAGOLD® fine touch™ needles gold-plated stainless steel? The surgical grade stainless steel provides the structural integrity of the micro- needle. Pure gold has high biocompatibility with human skin, preventing irritation and allergic responses after use. Impurities and other metals may result in unnecessary irritation. According to Dr. Diane Walder, “ The benefit of gold all comes down to chemistry. There are only a handful of substances that pure gold reacts with (mercury, hydrochloric acid, and in some cases, iodine), and none of them are found in the human body. This is a game-changer for patients with conditions like nickel allergies and other skin sensitivities. [1] How is AQUAGOLD® fine touch™ different from other micro-needling devices? The purpose of AQUAGOLD® fine touch™ is to allow practitioners to micro- channel (micro-inject) treatments directly to the skin. Plastic Surgeon Dr Steven Davis explains; “Skin needling simply punctures the skin, AQUAGOLD® goes that step further. “There are a lot of ways of injecting things under the skin, but to actually inject it into the skin, right where you’re trying to get this product to go is really revolutionary. With this technique you’re literally able to channel exactly what you want, where you want it, without any waste. We’re able to deliver real product and medicine, and give patients results without any downtime.”[2] How is AQUAGOLD® fine touch™ best used? The advantage of AQUAGOLD® is in the bespoke treatment it offers every patient. Each treatment can be individually tailored to the client’s specific needs, which may range from offering a one-time vitamin C mixture to more complex treatment plans including facial fillers, muscle relaxants, and a combination of peptides and vitamin solutions. It is completely customisable, from the ingredients to the price point offered. In the words of pioneering cosmetic dermatologic surgeon Dr. Jason Emer, AQUAGOLD® fine touch™ is “a beauty treatment for those who want stunning results without settling for something less.”[3]
APJ 12
DR STEPHEN DAVIS “With this technique, you’re literally able to channel exactly what you want, where you want it, without any waste. We’re able to deliver real product and medicine, and give patients results without any downtime.”
AUSTRALIAN DOCTORS LOVE AQUAGOLD® FINE TOUCH™ DR. JOHN HOLBROOK MEDICAL DIRECTOR - FRESH CLINICS “AQUAGOLD® has a unique, efficient delivery system that gives solid results for your patients in a quick and painless treatment. Even on my own face I’ve had great unsolicited feedback that my skin looked great by some of my staff - they didn’t know what I did, but definitely noticed the results.” Stay connected by finding Dr John Holbrook on social media. Instagram: @drjohnholbrook Website: https://freshclinics.com.au/
Why AQUAGOLD® Fine Touch™? It is now possible to achieve outstanding skin results without pain and avoiding a temporary disappearance from public life. AQUAGOLD® fine touch™ enables providers to deliver endless combinations of treatments to maximise results for each patient. Practitioners are giving their patients results never seen before, opting to intensify treatments using AQUAGOLD® in conjunction with non- ablative lasers and LEDs, and as a standalone treatment. AQUAGOLD® fine touch™ is FDA approved in the US, currently undergoing TGA registration process.
FACTOR MEDICAL AUSTRALIA AQUAGOLD® FINE TOUCH™ PLATINUM CLINIC FACTOR MEDICAL AUSTRALIA Factor Medical Australia has a team of professionals that have been in the Aesthetic Industry for over two decades. They are dedicated to providing you and your business with innovative, forward thinking technologies and devices.
Factor Medical Australia have introduced their Platinum Clinic Partners to ensure patient safety and confident providers. The Platinum Clinic Partners program ensures you are providing your patients the very best in CLINICAL LUXURY™ with authentic AQUAGOLD®. When patients see the below image, they know they are in safe hands. APJ
Bring your clinic to the forefront contact Factor Medical Australia today to become a Platinum Clinic Partner. Email: info@factormedicalaustralia.com Phone: 0447775549 Stay connected by finding us on social media.
[1] https://www.dianewaldermd.com/blog/3-reasons-celebrities-are-obsessed-with-aquagold-and-so-arewe [2] https://www.dermatologytimes.com/skin-rejuvenation/micro-channeling-skin-care-design [3] https://www.prweb.com/releases/2018/01/prweb15046421.htm
Instagram: @aquagoldfinetouchaustralia Facebook: Aquagold Fine Touch Australia
APJ 13
CONFERENCE
MELBOURNE | 12TH AUGUST
APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE 2019 Facing the future with real answers 8.30-8.45AM WELCOME 8.45 – 9.00am Topic: DISCOVERING YOUR ZONE OF GENIUS Presenter: Tina Viney – CEO, APAN Each one of us is a unique human-being with special talents, gifts and attributes. However, our life experiences can change our perception of who we are and how we show up in our world. In this lecture you will learn how to overcome limitations and release your authentic self. You will gain new insight on how to tap into your gifts and identify them in others. 9.00 – 9.30am Topic: UPDATES ON HEALTH REGULATIONS Presenter: Donna Cameron -DHHS, Vic. Gov As a professional, you are required by law to abide by your state’s Health Regulations, as well as Infection Control Guidelines for the procedures you are performing. With new modalities constantly entering the industry these laws are updated from time to time to improve consumer protection. However, Health Laws can sometimes be misinterpreted. To bring clarity to this subject for both practitioners and business owners we are pleased to welcome Donna Cameron. Donna Cameron is an Infection Control Consultant with the Microbiological Diagnostic Unit Public Health Laboratory and Communicable Diseases Prevention and Control Unit at the Victorian Department of Health and Human Services where she provides infection control advice to non-acute healthcare facilities and other community-based practices, such as beauty therapists and cosmetic tattoo artists. She also co-ordinates the
APJ 14
New Format, greater value! development of the Infection prevention and control guidelines for hair, beauty, tattooing and skin penetration industries which was released in May 2019. 9.30 – 10.00am Topic: GUT MICROBIOTA AND ITS IMPACT ON THE MIND AND BODY Presenter: Tanja Vriljic BHs ND The power of microbiota is now well researched with on-going scientific discoveries of new probiotic strands with specialised capabilities. This lecture will present valuable information on the role of gut microbiota and how it can impact mental health and overall wellbeing. It will also present how understanding the skin’s microbiota can help you transform your clinical results. Tanja Vrljic holds a Bachelor of Health Science. She is a Naturopath with a background in aesthetics and is the Director of the clinic Sanctum Skin + Health + Beauty. Tanja’s love of skin management, coupled with her naturopathic skill, provides a unique service to her clients. With this knowledge she is able to identify and rectify problems both internally and externally. She is extremely passionate about skin and gut health and with this knowledge she is changing lives and achieving great success in both areas.
10:00-10.30AM MORNING TEA BREAK 10.30 – 11.00am Topic: TREATING ETHNIC SKINS Presenter: Dr Ben Chan, CEO Integrative Health Group. Cosmetic Institute of Australia, Skintech Clinics and Superclinics
KEYSPEAKERS
D O N N A CAMERON
DEB FARNWORTH-WOOD
TAN JA V R IL JIC B HS N D
D R B EN C H A N
P HIL L IP F ER N A N D EZ
D R D O N N A MA R Ç A L
Australia is a nation of diverse cultures and as a dermal therapists, or aesthetician you are confronted with skins of varying ethnic origins with their unique set of considerations and the need for a different clinical approach. In this lecture you will learn important protocols when addressing ethnic skin types and how to treat them using laser, IPL and other technologies. Dr Chan is the Medical Director of the Cosmetic Institute of Australia with over 30-years of experience in cosmetic medicine and in treating a variety of skin conditions. He is a highly respected cosmetic dermatology educator for doctors, nurses, and dermal therapists, worldwide. Dr Chan has also established four Skintech Medical Cosmetic Laser Clinics across Melbourne and Adelaide, and is well-known especially within Asian communities due to his expertise in treating ethnic skin. 11.00 – 11.15am Topic: IMPROVING YOUR SOCIAL MEDIA RESULTS Speaker: Trish Hammond, Director, Plastic Surgery Hub Sponsored: Plastic Surgery Hub Every business today needs to have a social media presence. However, often amateur strategies can deliver a hit and miss approach wasting valuable time and energy. In this lecture you will learn the key considerations you need to have in place to achieve important business growth and the opportunity to gain formal training in how to master your social media needs. Trish Hammond is an experienced, award-winning blogger and a highly skilled professional in the competitive world of cosmetic medicine. She has first-hand experience in how to effectively use social media tools to establish reputation and achieve business success.
11.15 – 11.30am Topic: COMBINING TECHNOLOGIES WITH THE SCIENTIFIC APPROACH Presenter: Nancy Abdou, CEO of TADLI Sponsor: TADLI Today, consumers have new expectations and these often cannot be achieved with outdated approaches to treatment outcomes. Combining technologies has the capacity to provide you with new and improved results that will boost your reputation and your revenue. However, this process must not be random, but scientific. This lecture will expand on this topic and present valuable information on why sequence of technologies is important. Nancy Abdou is the CEO of The Australian Dermal and Laser Institute. She holds a Bachelor’s Degree in Education majoring in Science, as well as extensive education and experience in skin science and lightbased technologies. 11.30am – 12.00pm Topic: THEFT IN THE WORKPLACE Presenter: Deb Farnworth-Wood – Author and Entrepreneur The issue of workplace theft is a topic that interests every business owner, but within our industry the statistics are alarming, in many cases the culprit can be one of your best therapist or staff member. This lecture will uncover very interesting statistics and provide you with an effective strategy on how you can take control and protect your business. Deb Farnworth-Wood is the founder of the world-leading mediaesthetic franchise known as the Australian Skin Clinics. She acquired ASC during the global economic downturn and with her ingenious capabilities, she developed ASC into a leading franchise APJ 15
worth over $70 million in just a few years. Deb has worked with numerous staff members and knows first-hand the frequency that theft is happening in the workplace. She has devised an effective strategy to help you curb and manage theft in your business.
12.00-1.00PM LUNCH BREAK 1.00-1.30pm Topic: THE MISSING LINK – THE POWER OF HUMAN CONNECTION Presenter: Phillip Fernandez – Director of Wizard Consulting While your treatment results are important, as is your marketing strategies, research is identifying a new growing trend that is influencing client loyalty. That trend has a great deal to do with the quality of the relationship that you develop as the pivotal factor in business performance. Today’s clients seek more than a commercial transaction from your services and products, rather they are drawn to meaningful human connections - a memorable exchange of human interaction that will remain with them long after they have left you. Phillip Fernadez is a renowned human strategist, mentor and business coach, with extensive experience. His high-in-demand methods are transforming businesses by improving staff engagement and client loyalty. In this lecture Phillip will present key attributes that create meaningful relationships and enrich the client’s experience. Time: 1.30 – 2.00pm Topic: SKINCARE FORMULATIONS AND ADVANCES ON BIOTECHNOLOGY Presenter: Dr. Donna Marçal PhD, Researcher
APJ 16
Cosmetic formulations are now required to deliver exceptional results. This lecture will address emerging delivery systems in skincare formulations. The importance of product stability and protecting the functions of actives through antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients. You will learn how we can best harness amazing ingredients from nature, while protecting their original functions and ensuring ingredient purity and bioavailability. Dr Donna Lee Marçal has a PhD in Biochemistry and has specialised in human inflammation for over 15 years. She has been awarded several research fellowships for her research on macrophage-mediated inflammation. 2.00 – 2.30pm Topic: BUSINESS SURVIVAL IN AN EVER-CHANGING INDUSTRY Presenters: Panel of business owners and educators With the many changes that are redefining and broadening the industry’s scope of practice, how are businesses adapting and evolving to meet the growing needs of consumer expectations? We are inviting a panel of experienced business owners and educators to debate effective strategies and bring insightful and valuable solutions to these challenging times. Please bring your questions to present to the panel as this will be an interactive session. 2.30 – 2.45pm Topic: UNDERSTANDING NEW AND TRENDING NATURAL ACTIVE INGREDIENTS Dr. Donna Marçal, PhD Sponsor: Dermatonics With advanced in technology ingredients are now able to
more readily penetrate the skin giving rise to the issue of ingredient safety that is also consumer centric. In this lecture you will learn about some of the newer and exciting natural extracts for skincare products. You will learn about trending ingredients in the industry and how they can benefit your treatments and your clients. Since coming to Australia in 2007 Dr Donna Lee Marcal has continued her research, which has also led her to co-found the skincare line Dermatonics – a unique, natural, bioactive product that is distributed through their clinicexclusive skin care products. 2.45 – 3.00pm Topic: EVIDENCE-BASED PRACTICE IN CLINICAL AESTHETICS Speaker: Terry Everitt Sponsor: Australasian College of Health and Wellness In a world of high competition there are numerous claims made for products or treatments that are driven through marketing hype and not scientifically substantiated. As a professional what should you be looking for so you don’t fall into this trap? In this lecture you will learn how to base your decisions on credible strategies and how this can not only elevate your reputation as a knowledgeable professional, but also safeguard your treatment outcomes to deliver on their promise. Terry Everitt remains an acknowledged multi-skilled thought leader in the movement to bring a scientific evidencebased knowledge to the aesthetic field of care. An accomplished and very competent Higher Education Senior Lecturer and prolific writer, Terry remains at the forefront of the art and science of skin care.
3.00 – 3.30PM AFTERNOON TEA BREAK
Additional speakers are currently being finalised at the time of publishing this journal. Please visit our website for a complete update of the speaker program and to register. www.apanconf.com GRAND HYATT – 5-STAR LUXURY Nothing but the best! Ph: 03 9657 1234 – 123 Collins Street Melbourne This year APAN has chosen the Grand Hyatt as its conference destination. Join us and relax to five-star luxury while you enjoy an amazing high-quality and diverse educational program. Mingle with leading experts and with colleagues in an intimate and nurturing professional environment and enjoy a sumptuous lunch, morning and afternoon tea. There will be gifts to be won and we guarantee you will leave energised and with leading education at the highest level. This is a certified professional development program and delegates will receive a Certificate of Attendance. This event will also qualify participants for 6 CPD points. If you wish to stay the night at this Melbourne icon, a luxurious stay awaits you, in the heart of the dynamic city of Melbourne. Located prestigiously on Collins Street, surrounded by the city’s high fashion and fine dining. Many of Melbourne’s top tourist attractions are all within walking distance, including business, retail, sporting and theatre districts. Featuring 550 spacious guest rooms and suites, delectable dining and an events floor with 15 innovative spaces. Why not combine business and leisure and experience exemplary service? To book your accommodation phone 03 9657 1234. TO REGISTER FOR THE CONFERENCE www.apanconf.com 07 5593 0360 Info@apanetwork.com APJ 17
BUSINESS
Keep Clients Loyal While Increasing Their Average Spend Caroline Nelson I GUESS with the bold statement of my heading I have your attention, because who doesn’t want a more profitable enterprise. It sounds like the perfect solution to business success, but you might say it’s easier said than done. What I can tell you from experience is it’s achievable and in fact, it’s not all that hard if you have the right strategy, action plan and you are prepared to implement and monitor results. The key strategies to keeping client loyalty, while increasing their spend has many facets, but in this article, I’m going to concentrate on what I feel are the most important - Client Care, Making Spending Easy, and Menu Development. Almost every salon owner, or manager I’ve ever spoken to believe their customer care, or customer service is superior to competitors without any solid evidence to back up their claim. The only way you will ever know how good your business is will be to honestly benchmark it against the competition. I recommend that at least once a year you conduct a “secret shop” on your business and the three closest competitors. In this way you will truly know if your business stacks up and if not, then immediately correct, or improve any areas of deficiency. CLIENT CARE To blitz the competition in client care you’ll need to deliver a notch above what they are offering, because in an increasingly stressful and impersonal world, a beauty salon or clinic is one place many people go to receive (literally), hands-on high-level client care. However, they don’t want the mediocre, they want to receive the WOW Factor style of care. For this reason, make sure every employee is trained to deliver to this standard because a business is only as good as its weakest link. The best way to delivery high standards on a consistent bases is to make sure your team recognises how precious each APJ 18
client is and as such, should be treated with unfailing respect, regardless of the service treatment they are receiving. The “gift voucher” client is often the type of client who on occasion, can receive less than the highest standard of care. How often have I heard an employee’s excuse “but it was only a gift voucher, they weren’t interested in an upgrade/retail/next booking” as the reason why they didn’t give a full consultation and analysis, or even a recommendation. This attitude and lack of care not only knocks out any potential sale, but it also makes darn sure the person will never come back. It also losses the opportunity for the business to develop a new ongoing loyal client. High level Client Care does not pick and choose … it’s for everyone. If you wish to build a solid database of loyal and committed clients, you will need to ensure that the services and products you provide and stock, will perfectly meet your clients’ needs and potential needs and are able to cater to all their specific requirements. For this reason, the professional therapist must not only be highly-skilled and technically-trained, but observant to assess each client for additional ways to improve the treatment results and experience. And never mistake superior service for being “salesy” as it is your professional “duty-of-care” to offer expert advice and recommendation. If you provide this, your valued clients will be educated and correctly informed to make the right treatment and retail decisions - decisions that will secure their loyalty. If I have one peeve, it is with the therapist who doesn’t progress their clients, who allows them to stay having the same-old-same-old treatment long after the client ceases to see treatment results, and/or gets so bored, they move on to another salon. Keeping things fresh, vibrant and interesting by moving the client onto advanced, or alternative treatments and products not only increases positive results, but also keeps their loyalty and commitment strong.
MAKING SPENDING EASY To increase average spend you need to make it easier for your staff to sell - it’s just that simple. An educated team with a good underpinning knowledge of the skin, capable efficient and skilled in the services you are providing with up to date product knowledge, is your business’s best asset. But they will only be as good as the tools, products, training, and motivation and incentive you are offering them. For this reason, in an ever-increasing technological world the old magi-lamp is just not sophisticated enough, nor does it allow the in-depth skin assessment that today’s client expects. By combining 3D image analysis tools with the therapist’s expert knowledge of the skin, treatment choice and homecare, the therapist is in the best position to prescribe, recommend and sell - it’s the perfect combination. Regardless of the economy, there will always be money in wallets and purses just waiting to be spent and it may as well be spent in your business. And for those who don’t have the money at that point-in-time, there’s another method of purchase that many consumers are embracing, it’s the “buy now, pay later”. I guess it’s the Lay-By of today, allowing them to purchase products or services immediately, then pay them off in instalments. If you currently are not providing this purchasing option, your business may be at a disadvantage. Clients today are more aware of what’s available and this includes payment options, so don’t come late to the party because your competitors may have that advantage over you. MENU DEVELOPMENT Like everything else, treatment menus in the aesthetics world have evolved. The modern treatment menu must be easy to read offering a-la-carte single services, “intensive booster” up-grades, cleverly packaged and bundled programs or series, and glamour- enhancement treatment options. It should be designed and set out in such a way that it leads clients and prospective clients to make a booking and not just clutter up
their handbags with waste paper. But most of all, the menu must point the potential client in the right direction. I suggest it should include a “Most popular treatments” section placed first on the menu. In this section list the services that are your most profitable, or that have the most profit potential, (which by the way, are generally the most effective and results-driven). By this, I mean that they can easily lead clients into the possibility of a series of treatments, and purchasing high-performance support products like serums and specialty products, not just the basics. View your treatment menu like prime real estate, where the best, are allocated the best position. My tip is to get away from the old-hat method of listing your menu services from the lowest price point first. Presuming you have taken my advice and created what I call a “selling-style” menu of services, it now needs to be backed up by the appropriate homecare options that will not only enhance your treatment results, but also ensure your clients keep coming back for more. If you take care of all three areas I have mentioned above, retaining client loyalty will be so much easier, as will on-going business growth. Another consideration is to choose the right brands that are exclusive to you in your specialty services and are not available cheaper from online shopping sites – this is also critically important if you wish to achieve sales that will massively increase client average spend. With a few well executed strategies business will continue to flourish. Regardless of what may be happening in the general economy, discerning consumers will always exist, seeking to gain the best value for their money. APJ © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2019
NEW & IMPROVED
LUCAS PLUS II Advanced Q-Switched Laser Technology
NEW MODEL
INDICATIONS
Melasma
After
PIH
Nevus of Ota
Tattoos
Age Spots NEW
NEW
Tattoo Removal Melasma & PIH Acne Scars Laser GENESIS Inflammatory Acne Nevus of OTA Freckles Cafe Au Lait Blemishes Large Pores Skin Tightening Carbon Soft Peel Laser Toning
Micro Lens Array Handpiece Spots
Freckles
Skin Blemishes
1064nm PTP & PTP-S MODE
15Hz SPEED
For Faster & Safer Laser Treatments
1064nm & 532nm MODE
Hormonal Melasma, Pigmentation, Collagen Regeneration
Tattoo Removal, Cafe Au Lait, Epidermal Lesions, Superficial Blemishes
1064nm MLA MODE
G1064nm FREE RUNNING MODE
Acne Scars, Large Pores, PIH
Rejuvenation, Tightening, Whitening, Lifting
1800 628 999 APJ 20
CLINICALPRO.COM.AU
BOOK REVIEW
It’s finally here!
The Concise Guide to DERMAL NEEDLING The Medical Edition – Revised and Expanded Dr Setterfield Renowned globally at the educational authority in Dermal Needling Dr Lance Setterfield’s new edition of his manual brings the latest scientific information on this subject. DERMAL NEEDELING has become a global skin rejuvenation phenomenon and a modality of choice for practitioners and consumers alike. Society’s shift to more natural, safe, less invasive, effective and affordable treatments accounts for its popularity. But microneedling is not as simple as it sounds, and (avoidable) complications are on the rise since pens were introduced. Although this manual explains the how’s, when’s, and why’s of this exceptional modality, it moves beyond the basics, in this revised and expanded version. Does epidermal injury play a greater role in rejuvenation than we recognise? Is inflammation a prerequisite for collagen induction? What about Stem Cells, PRP, Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic acid and Parabens? Included in this book is a post-needling protocol to enhance patient satisfaction and support your treatment results. Discover the answers to these important questions with regards to microneedling. How do I: • Maximise the positives and minimise the negatives?
•
Choose a device and skincare product and why?
•
Select the ideal patient and who should I avoid?
•
Combine needling with other services?
•
Gain the right knownledge to avoid misadventure and litigations?
•
Perfect my results and gain return on my investment?
What: • Conditions can I treat? •
Conditions respond best?
•
Risks to avoid when combining treatments?
•
About scope of practice?
•
About regulations?
HOT OFF THE PRESS Just released Dr Setterfield’s latest edition of his manual is now available in Australia. This is the most comprehensive educational tool on this subject. Dr Setterfield will also be promoting his on-line course on the APAN Continuing Professional Development CPD website, which will be available in the next few weeks. CPD POINTS Completing this course will secure you 10 CPD points towards your professional development.Order your copy of Dr Lance Setterfield’s The Concise Guide to Dermal Needling – Third medical edition, revised and updated To purchase your copy please phone APAN 07 5593 0360, or email info@ apanetwork.com with your phone number and we will contact you.
APJ 21
TECHNOLOGY
The introduction of NON-ABLATIVE REJUVENATION HIFU for Safe, Skin Tightening and Lifting Metro-Dora Clifford
AS THE AVERAGE LIFE EXPECTANCY INCREASES, there are more people who wish to undergo cosmetic procedures for skin rejuvenation and also in addressing drooping features that result from the larger muscles of the face losing their tone. It is common knowledge that surgery is usually the last resort and the need for other measures is regularly sought by consumers and practitioners alike. Various devices have been developed to treat skin laxity. Ablative skin resurfacing (ASR) rejuvenates skin by inducing sublethal thermal damage, leading to re-epithelialisation and new collagen formation. Ablative carbon dioxide or erbium lasers are successful treatment devices in the ASR category. However, patients treated with ASR devices experience a prolonged recovery time, infection and sometimes postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. Although ablative laser treatment is effective for rejuvenation, there is a long down time after the procedure. There are also risks of textural changes, hypertrophic scarring, hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation. This has led to new innovations as alternative treatments. Introducing the Non-Ablative Rejuvenation (NAR) laser, which is fast gaining popularity in aesthetic devices. The NAR devices have been designed to induce thermal injury within the dermis while sparing the overlying epidermis. The problem with NAR devices, however, is that they are not as effective as conventional ablative treatments. This has created a need for device engineers to devise a non-ablative rejuvenation
APJ 22
procedure with an efficacy comparable to that of ablative treatment is needed. The answer to this is the introduction of HIFU technology. WHAT IS HIFU? HIFU technology is not like lasers, radio frequency, surgery and other technologies. HIFU operates through (High Intensity Focused Ultrasound) beams through the surface of the skin to deliver precise and fractional ultrasound energy at the right depths (i.e., 3.0mm/4.5mm) to the SMAS layer without damage or disrupting the epidermal tissue of the skin. This energy stimulates both muscle firming and collagen production, with no disruption to the outer skin surface (no scarring). It is especially suitable to treating sagging skin with reasonable thickness as well, particularly in the cheek area, where with ageing, we experience a drooping due to the degeneration of the SMAS system. WHAT IS THE SMAS SYSTEM? The superficial musculoaponeurotic system, or SMAS, is often described as an organised fibrous network composed of the platysma muscle, parotid fascia, and fibromuscular layer covering the cheek. This system divides the deep and superficial adipose tissue of the face and has region specific morphology. Anatomically, the SMAS lies inferior to the zygomatic arch and superior to the muscular belly of the platysma. The fibromuscular layer of the SMAS integrates with the
superficial temporal fascia and frontalis muscle superiorly, and with the platysma muscle inferiorly. The SMAS is even often described as a fibrous degeneration of the platysma muscle itself. In reality, a precise anatomical definition of the SMAS is unclear and has been thoroughly debated since its first description by Mitz and Peyronie. The SMAS connects the facial muscles to the dermis, and its purpose is to transmit, distribute, and amplify the activity of all facial muscles. It has a close relationship with the most superficial fascial planes of the face and neck area. Macchi et al. describe the SMAS as a central tendon for coordinated muscular contraction of the face and providing a functional role of movement for expression. As we age the SMAS atrophies and we experience a drooping of the cheeks which gives the face an aged and tried look. Technologies that help rejuvenate the muscles within this region are therefore highly effective in supporting and lifting this very crucial area of the face creating a more youthful appearance. HOW DO HIFU AND IFUS WORK? The earliest widespread use of HIFU (High Intense Focused Ultra-sound), or IFUS (Intense Focused Ultra Sound) was initially used for the treatment of prostate cancer. This was a highly precise medical procedure using Intense Focused Ultrasound energy transmitted in a mechanical wave form to heat and destroy pathogenic tissue rapidly.
This mechanical wave of energy delivered is focused into thermal injury spots and repeated multiple times along a straight line. Advanced Doublo Gold HIFU systems are able to deliver these lines of spot coagulation in both directions of the cartridge for efficient and profitable treatments. Such systems deliver on an average 300 lines in just eight minutes, completing a full face and neck within 30 minutes without operator fatigue. Ultrasound can be focused at frequencies of 1-7MHz with a high degree of precision. An important aspect of HIFU is that the damaging focal point is located several millimetres below the surface of the skin and tissues above and below the focal points remain unaffected. Due to the absorption of this energy, the temperature of tissues rises to more than 60-70 degrees Celsius with the vibration of cells and this stimulates the cells for collagen production and tissue rejuvenation. RESULTS SUPPORTED BY CLINICAL STUDIES Several clinical studies have been done to evaluate the clinical efficacy and safety of HIFU on skin laxity and wrinkles. All the experimental data obtained from dermatologists and patients showed that HIFU appears to be a safe and effective modality for skin laxity treatment. Some of the clinical studies also comment on the use of Bipolar or Multipolar Radio Frequency to be introduced before HIFU so as to reduce any uncomfortable heat (produced in the thermal injury zones (TIZ)) that some patients may feel and also to provide a higher degree of immediate client satisfaction, as the final results
APJ 23
Ultrasound-based imaging systems have been used for clinical diagnoses for several decades. Intense focused ultrasound (IFUS) is an energy modality that can propagate through tissue up to several millimetres. Using this technology there are two applications:
1. IFUS has been used in the treatment of benign and malignant tumours for several years.
often take up to 90 days to complete the collagen production provided by the HIFU treatment. THE TREATMENT EXPERIENCE A mild heat may be felt by the patients post-treatment, however, it should not be uncomfortable and the feeling of tightening also felt after the treatment for a few days to a week, appears to reassure the patient that some cellular activity is happening below the dermis encouraging them to wait to see far more visible results in the following months.
2. The other application of this technology delivers excellent skin tightening results. These devices are known to induce molecular vibration leading to the generation of thermal energy and formation of a thermal injury zone in the dermis and superficial musculo-aponeurotic system (SMAS). This mechanism is different from that of other NAR devices in that the thermal lesion is made deeper in the tissues. There are several reports describing a novel IFUS approach in human cadaveric facial tissue and porcine tissue. IFUS was reported to produce focused thermal collagen denaturation in the SMAS to induce shrinkage and tissue tightening.
3. The high intense focused ultrasound (HIFU) is able to also treat skin laxity that produces thermal effects at various depths while sparing the overlying tissue. This and many studies assessed histologic changes and the safety and efficacy of High Intense Focused Ultrasound using the (Doublo GoldTM, HIRONIC Co., Sungnam, Korea) for tightening of facial skin in treated patients. A recent study on the effects of the Doublo GoldTM conducted on 11 patients with facial laxity were treated with HIFU and evaluated before and after treatment. Mean age was 46 years (ranging between 35–64 years). Two available hand-pieces with different focal depths (3 mm and 4.5 mm) were used with three to five passes and 1–2 mm apart. Outcome assessment included photographic evaluation by two blinded investigators, skin biopsies before and two months after treatment, and patient satisfaction surveys. HISTOPATHOLOGICAL RESULTS: Subjective and objective analyses showed 63.6% and 72.7% improvement at the twomonth evaluation, respectively. Hematoxylin and eosin (H&E) staining of biopsy specimens taken at baseline showed non-specific findings. Eight-week post-treatment biopsy specimens showed increased and thickened collagen in the reticular dermis. Although there was 100 no inflammation or fat necrosis, increased fibrosis was seen between 95 fat layers. There were no significant changes in the epidermis in any of the cases. The increase in collagen in the reticular 75 dermis and between fat layers was confirmed by Masson’s trichrome staining. APJ Article submitted by ClinicalPro Ph: (07) 3350 6898 25 or contact Metro-Dora Clifford Email: metro-dora@ clinicalpro.com.au for further details and on HIFU 5 technology or to access references. 0
APJ 24 Bitmap in CEO Report Mar17
A HIFU SYSTEM YOU CAN TRUST
Skin Tightening & Rejuventation Non-Invasive Lifting Jowl Tightening Nasolabial Fold Reduction Double Chin Reduction TGA Listed Proven 4th Generation Model 3,000+ Units Sold Worldwide Comfortable & Reliable Treatments Visible Results After 1 Treatment Low Cost Consumables 300 Lines In 8 Minutes
Face Lift
Neck Lines
Elasticity Neck
Jowl Tightening
An Australian Owned & Operated Family Business Of Over 35 Years
1800 628 999 APJ 25 clinicalpro.com.au
CONFERENCE
A NEW FOCUS FOR THE FUTURE
APAN GOLD COAST CONFERENCE WRAP UP ON A BEAUTIFUL AUTUMN day May 17th on the Gold Coast APAN launched its conference program featuring a brandnew format. The event was buzzing with excitement as the conference room was full to capacity with industry professionals from various disciplines eagerly anticipating to experience and benefit from the new conference program. Six keynote speakers covered the very latest in scientific advances. Starting with Dr Tiina Meder who presented new discoveries on the role of microbiota when addressing inflammatory skin conditions and how to mitigate them. A dermatologist of international recognition, Dr Meder is also known as a leading thought-provoker in the area of ingredient science. As the formulator of Meder Beauty Science her formulas adhere to the latest principles with more advanced results now being able to be achieved without trauma and aggressive protocols. After 10 years of research, one of her innovations using neuromodulating peptides has led to the development of unique protocols for face lifting and wrinkle reduction that rival many invasive techniques. Professor Laurence Walsh delivered a powerful presentation APJ 26
on photobiology and beautifully brought the theory into the practical realm demonstrating key principles in identifying the right settings when working with various lasers and IPLs in achieving leading skincare results. He also discussed critical factors of consideration when determining treatment perimeters and selecting settings to achieve highly successful treatment outcomes. Professor Walsh was also a recipient of the Order of Australia for his academic contribution to science. Indeed, we were honoured to benefit from his amazing knowledge and his incredible delivery style. Professor Derek Richards amazed everyone with his wealth of knowledge on epigenetics and how new science is uncovering ways to prevent and treat cancer, as well as the hope for skincare formulations drawing from these discoveries. Jacine Greenwood’s presentation delved deeper into skincare ingredients and ways of optimising skin health, correcting and protecting the skin by strengthening the integrity of the skin’s biofilm, which is often compromised over the winter months. She also brought clarity to the issue of the benefits of physiological lipids versus non-physiological lipids. Naturopath Nicky Wood delivered an incredible and
APJ 27
comprehensive presentation on the latest discoveries on the role of various prebiotics and probiotics in optimising gut health, as well as mind, skin and body wellness. Following this presentation and true to theme, guests were presented with a beautiful array of gut health yummy gummies, as well as incredibly deliciously innovative Kombucha formulas expertly prepared with fermented fruit and a lot of love by Claire Mason for all to enjoy. In line with this theme the hotel also served yoghurt and beautiful fruit. Human strategist Phillip Fernandez, presented throughprovoking principles on personal and business performance from within, addressing the issue of behaviour in strengthening brand-identity, improving staff performance,client acquisition and growth. An additional 10 segments on diverse topics that addressed problem-solving strategies brought a fresh approach to the conference program. These were sponsored and presented by various companies who contributed to the diversity and practical elements of the educational program. The feedback was incredibly positive and indeed, the success of the event was attributed to the joint industry contribution and effort.
APJ 28
A big thank you to the wonderful Gay Wardle who was the MC of the event. Our special thanks also to Lauren and Angus Thompson who were responsible to the AV and social media for the event. Their expertise allowed us to capture some very special moments and resourceful interviews throughout the day which we will be featuring through social media. A very special thanks also for the help and support of industry professionals Danielle Hughes and Michael Moriarty who came all the way from Darwin and offered his help at the registration desk, also a special thanks to Vanessa Kirkham who also contributed to the running of the event. An incredible thank you to Claire Mason who prepared and served her delicious probiotic creations with us all. Thank you to all the wonderful industry professionals who came, not just from Queensland, but also from other states and even New Zealand. We are committed to your success and value your loyalty and support. APJ The new Conference format will continue at our next event – APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE – MELBOURE, Monday 12th August 2019. Another amazing program awaits you. Please register at www.apanconf.com
APJ 29
INDUSTRYPROFILE
SPOTLIGHT ON SKINFAKTOR An interview with Danielle Hughes DANIELLE HUGHES is the face and voice of THE BEHIND THE SCENES WITH SKINFAKTOR - a broadcast that presents generic educational topics that is fast establishing a growing cult-following of practitioners and salon owners eager to gain a deeper understanding of skin science and on the various technologies that are constantly entering the market. Danielle is passionate about research. Her broadcasts always deliver thought-provoking information, challenging the listener to question their understanding and knowledge and to encourage practitioners and business owners to thoroughly research and base their decisions on sound, evidence-based studies and not just on marketing hype. While many are thrilled to be guided on accessing credible data, others are irritated and disturbed by her “voice of reason” at the thought that what they have come to believe may not be exactly true. We believe that Danielle is a bright and shining light, helping the industry by providing sound education and sometimes exposing erroneous information that sounds great, but is not actually validated. She does this because of the goodness of her heart without any financial rewards. While the broadcasts provide her with an educational vehicle, Danielle’s other role is the Australian Distributor of a new-generation brand known as SKINFAKTOR that has recently entered the Australian professional skincare market. In this article we take a more detailed look at SKINFAKTOR and ask Danielle to provide us with information about the brand to uncover what it can offer business owners and consumers. APJ Q1: DANIELLE, WHO IS SKINFAKTOR, GIVE US A LITTLE BACKGROUND ABOUT THE COMPANY? SKINFAKTOR is a high-performance cosmeceutical skincare system with outcomes leveraged by sophisticated, patented
APJ 30
technology, (in a nutshell!). Formulated in Europe, SKINFAKTOR has been intentionally designed by Helmut and Gabriela La Fontaine to empower the professional skin practitioner and protect their salon against a new wave of competition. With a combined industry experience of over 70 years, the La Fontaine’s are both well-known and respected throughout Europe for their innovation and ground-breaking technology. SKINFAKTOR combines the latest bio-tech science, patented delivery technology and affordability to bring to the ‘optional spend’ market a winning recipe for success. It is resultsdriven, refillable, simple, strictly not online and with a powerful professional treatment breadth to amplify results and design healthy skin. APJ Q2: ONE OF SKINFAKTOR’s POINT-OF-DIFFERENCE IS THEIR DERMAL INFUSION SYSTEM (DIS) WHICH WE UNDERSTAND IS ALSO PATENTED, GIVING THEIR BRAND A POINT-OF-DIFFERENCE AND A COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE FOR SALONS AND CLINICS THAT CHOOSE TO WORK WITH THIS BRAND. CAN YOU PLEASE EXPLAIN THE CONCEPT? Our new Dermal Infusion System (DIS) boosters are at the ‘leading edge’ of science and ingredient delivery – they represent a huge leap forward for the professional skin practitioner! Gone are the days where all we can do is provide superficial hydration and nourishment, or simply ‘slash and burn’ away at the surface symptom. SKINFAKTOR’s Booster DIS function at the very heart of improving client outcomes by delivering a new class of ingredients deep into the skin where they can work, not just to minimise the symptomatic issue, but to treat the root cause of the problem by supplementing failing cell metabolism. The patent was granted for “A method and system for delivering a treatment agent into the skin”. This offers the professional practitioner marketing dominance and a true
point-of-differentiation against competitors – not just other salons and clinics, but against the big retailers and online DIY opportunities. The concept effectively redirects the customer back into the ‘bricks and mortar’ business, not only to purchase their skincare, but to embark on a series of professional treatments whereby their targeted booster is further amplified by our Medilift™ technology. APJ Q3: WITH THE ARRIVAL OF THE “SUSPENSION” FORMULAS, WHAT ARE SOME OF THE BENEFITS THAT THEY CAN DELIVER? SKINFAKTOR have formulated targeted boosters to address wrinkles, dehydration, acne, rosacea and hyper-pigmentation, without aggression, acids or vitamin A derivatives. By ‘resizing’ a cocktail of bound, biomimetic actives with our STFTechnology, unique and effective peptides and nutrients are small enough to penetrate to the target cell (without becoming atomically unstable, or losing their efficacy through exposure to other ingredients in the formula). Some of the benefits of incorporating a Booster DIS into a SKINFAKTOR program include: • Improved cell metabolism, allowing for higher functioning cells with youthful energy characteristics •
Healthier skin microbiome support and enhanced skin immune function
•
Boosted collagen production via restored cellular communication, for wrinkle reduction (PLUS! Relaxed muscle contraction to reduce the visible signs and further damage from autonomic facial expression)
•
Desensitising irritation, pacifying existing and inhibiting new inflammation
•
Rehabilitating the excess melanin response of uneven and unwanted pigmentation due to ‘mis-firing’ controls,
stimulated by topical and environmental aggression •
Suitable for long term use, all skin types, all Fitzpatrick types, the more you use it – the better your results
APJ Q4: WHAT IS SKINFAKTOR’s POSITION ON THE NEED TO CREATE INFLAMMATION IN ORDER TO REJUVENATE? We understand that creating inflammation has been the traditional practice. But inflammation is not present in the embryo wound-healing model – in fact, in this same model, wounds heal without scar tissue. As research evolves, and we look to the interrelationship between the skin and the rest of the body, inflammation, particularly prolonged and intentionally repeated inflammation, can only accelerate the ageing process and weaken key bodily functions, for example, our immune system. More accurate stimulation creates the less is best skin outcomes of SKINFAKTOR. SKINFAKTOR’s core philosophy is to respect the skin as a living organ of protection and to stimulate healthy regeneration without trauma, aggression, pain or unwanted side effects. APJ Q5: DOES SKINFAKTOR PROVIDE SKIN TREATMENTS WITH EQUIPMENT INNOVATION ALSO, IF YES, CAN YOU SHARE WITH US THE MOST POPULAR DEVICE AND HOW DOES IT ENHANCE RESULTS? Absolutely. With the recent surge of DIY ‘Home Facial’ kits and ‘Quick-fix’ home LED masks and Laser devices, a professional skin clinic can best compete by offering something unique. SKINFAKTOR’s Medilift™ technology offers a ‘professionalonly’ multi-functional treatment approach that combines our proprietary Poly Abrasion™ and Shibata™ Needling techniques to re-texturise the surface, stimulate healthy collagen regeneration and deliver our small molecular size actives deep into the skin. Poly Abrasion™ is a safe, gentle alternative to traditional microdermabrasion. Our disposable applicators are
APJ 31
developed from medical-grade polymer for controlled resurfacing without crystals, suction and excessive abrasion. Shibata™ Needling represents the future of ‘needling’, where less is best wins the race. Shibata™ Needling is painless, bloodless, trauma-free and allows for optimal delivery of actives (of course, when the skin is bleeding from tradition style needling, it simply can’t absorb a product). By creating the illusion of a wound (without an actual trauma wound), our Shibata™ tips stimulate a fibroblast response, without risking a surge of collagen that can lead to fibrosis/scar tissue. There’s also a targeted Shibata™ Activator which can work precisely in the actual wrinkle to correct and plump out the line just where it’s needed. These techniques are not only safe to combine in the one treatment (without over-doing it), but they are entirely unique and only available to the clinic professional. APJ Q6: WHERE DO YOU BELIEVE SKINFAKTOR FITS INTO THE CONTEMPORARY SALON OR CLINIC AND WHAT BENEFITS AND SUPPORT DOES THE COMPANY OFFER? SKINFAKTOR is a compact system of skincare that, from a price-point position alone, has been designed to meet the needs of today’s optional spend market – that is, visible results, long term skin health and condition ‘revision’, salon loyalty and affordability that will channel the consumer back from the mass merchandisers and online vendors. We are committed to providing strategic promotions and ongoing support to our team of practitioners and clinicians through the following support model:
Bottomless Cleanser offer for customers – a subsidised strategy where the clinic can ‘gift’ their customer a free cleanser refill, every time they make a purchase. • Refills system – sustainability meets affordability. The customer saves 20% every time they return to the clinic to repurchase their SKINFAKTOR. Our range of cleansers, exfoliants, serums and moisturisers are all ‘refillable’. •
Program Packs – that engender customer loyalty to the salon through skin transformation packs that marry a home care prescription with professional treatments.
•
Realistic clinic business support – up to 122% markup on European product (minimum markup is 100%, no-one can now survive on less).
•
VIP Events – to educate, motivate and drive sales of skin programs.
•
Marketing – series of marketing videos that can be used in-clinic and online; fresh, seasonal posters and shelf talkers, sample syringes, travel packs.
•
Education – Behind the Scenes, online Zoom sessions (one on one), regular in-clinic training.
•
Products, Technology and Treatments that above all deliver on a promise of better skin outcomes than the Clinic’s competitors. APJ
To contact Danielle for more information call 1300 135 294 or ‘PM’ her when watching Behind the Scene X Skinfaktor, every Monday @ 9.30 am EST.
THEINDUSTRY INDUSTRYHAS HASCHANGED. CHANGED. THE THE INDUSTRY HAS CHANGED. Consumer demands. Instant gratification culture. Online sales. DIY market. Consumer Instant culture. Online Consumer demands. Instantgratification gratification culture. Onlinesales. sales.DIY DIYmarket. market. THEdemands. INDUSTRY HAS CHANGED. Consumer demands. Instant gratification culture. Online sales. DIY market. HERE’S WHAT YOU NEEDNOW. NOW. HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED NOW HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED NOW. 100-122% markup 100-122% markup 100-122% markup treatments No-fuss professional HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED NOW. No-fuss professional No-fuss professionaltreatments treatments Patented technology 100-122% markup Patented technology Patented technology Affordable homecare No-fuss professional treatments Affordable homecare Affordable homecare Eco-friendly REFILL system (save 20%) Patented technology Eco-friendly system (save 20%) Eco-friendly REFILL system (save 20%) ‘BottomlessREFILL Cleanser’ loyalty program Affordable homecare ‘Bottomless Cleanser’ loyalty program ‘Bottomless Cleanser’ loyalty program ‘Get with the Program’ packs Eco-friendly REFILL system (save 20%) ‘Get with Program’ packs ‘Get withthe the Program’ packs Proven success strategies ‘Bottomless Cleanser’ loyalty program Proven success strategies Proven Regularsuccess industrystrategies updates & newsletters ‘Get with the Program’ packs Regular updates &&newsletters Regular industry updates newsletters Online industry education community Proven success strategies Online education community Online education community In-clinic training Regular industry updates & newsletters In-clinic training In-clinic training No online sales Online education No Noonline onlinesales salescommunity In-clinic training No online sales
EXPERIENCETHE THE EXPERIENCE EXPERIENCE THE DIFFERENCE EXPERIENCE THE DIFFERENCE DIFFERENCE 10% DISCOUNT FOR APAN DIFFERENCE MEMBERS AND SUBSCRIBERS Call 1300 135 294 | www.skinfaktor.com.au EXPERIENCE THE DIFFERENCE
Results will vary Results will vary Results will vary
APJ 32
Call 1300 Call 1300135 135294 294| |www.skinfaktor.com.au www.skinfaktor.com.au Results will vary
Call 1300 135 294 | www.skinfaktor.com.au
H i g h q u a l i ty, n o n - bi a s e d a n d p ra c t i c a l e d u c a t i o n d eve l o p e d by l ea d i n g d o c to rs . Th e Co s m et i c I n st i t u te of A u st ra l i a a i m s to h e l p yo u b u i l d a s o l i d ev i d e n ce - b a s e d fo u n d a t i o n to exce l i n yo u r co s m et i c m e d i c i n e c a re e r. Fro m i n t ro d u c to r y m o d u l e s to h i g h e r t ra i n i n g , we d e l i ve r co m p re h e n s i ve o n l i n e a n d h a n d s - o n co u rs e s t h a t w i l l e q u i p yo u w i t h re l eva n t s k i l l s . We a l s o p a r t n e r w i t h i n te r n a t i o n a l u n i ve rs i t i e s a n d A u st ra l i a n i n st i t u te s . CO S M ET I C I N J EC TA B L E S | L AS E R S A F ETY | S K I N S C I E N C E | T H R EA D S | A N D M O R E
Find out more about our courses: www.cosmeticinstituteofaustralia.com.au info@cosmeticinstituteofaustralia.com.au +61 (0) 401 110 065 APJ 33
STARPERFORMER
THE POSSIBILITIES OF NEW TECHNOLOGY
Cosmetic Facial Masks Meder Beauty Science FACE MASKS ARE A traditional skincare solution always included in professional care programs and almost always present in professional grade ranges of home skincare. While there are traditional methods of their use where they are applied and then rinsed off, were now have new applications. Meder Beauty Science Lab (Switzerland) have five facial masks for home use. They employ special technology and innovative natural ingredients to formulate their sheet masks. The sheets of both home and professional skincare masks are made of Japanese yellow groove bamboo (Phyllostachys Aureosulcata Aureocaulis) fibre. This bamboo species is incredibly resistant to temperature changes and naturally elastic, which enables a 10-metre tall plant to withstand hurricanes with ease. Yellow groove bamboo fibre contains natural soothing and hydrating agents and is highly hygroscopic when dried. Bamboo cloth can retain a much larger amount of liquid than cellulose and other materials commonly used to make unwoven sheet masks. Every mask’s fibre contains 30 mls of active solution ready to be released when the mask is in close contact with the skin. Scientific research of the skin’s penetrability confirms that when the epidermis is in contact with water, or in close contact with the cloth soaked in liquid, the water-soluble ingredients are able to penetrate significantly deeper into the deep skin layers. All masks are soaked in a complex gel with a base of highmolecular weight hyaluronic acid and olive oil. Hyaluronic acid creates a water cushion providing a link between the mask and the deep layers of the epidermis for the water-soluble ingredients to penetrate into the skin. Oleic and linoleic fatty acids in olive oil ease the penetration of lipophilic molecules. Each mask contains innovative peptide Skinasensyl (Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15) suppressing the release of histamine and inflammatory mediators, which makes Meder Beauty masks suitable even for hypersensitive, traumatised and allergic skin. Deep sea water in the masks’ active gel is rich in mineral APJ 34
ions with a composition similar to that of human blood plasma. This creates osmotic gradient, which helps the active ingredients to permeate into the deep skin layers. When the active gel is applied onto the skin, its unique mineral composition is ‘recognised’ by the skin as its own easing and accelerating the penetration of all the ingredients in the mask. Two to four mask applications a month are enough for visible effect. The five Meder Beauty Science homecare masks correspond with five professional non-invasive treatments addressing various skin concerns.
1. HYDRA-FILL HF5 MAKS: Cascade Hydration Hydra-Fill mask revitalises and moisturises the skin layer after layer increasing hydration from the surface layers of the epidermis inwards. Latest discoveries on the hyaluronic acid’s impact on the skin combined with biotech antioxidants were put into the creation of the mask’s active gel. Hyaluronic acid of various molecular weights permeates the skin layer by layer, attracting like a magnet nourishing and revitalising water molecules. The skin becomes smoother, toned and elastic. Known for its “Photoshop affect” this mask creates an immediate anti-ageing effect. Active ingredients: •
Hyaluronic Acid: Low, medium and high-molecular weight
•
Algae extract: Pacific brown algae, a source of polysaccharides and amino acids, rich in iron, iodine and other mineral salts and contain vitamins and microelements.
•
Tranexamic acid: Tranexamic acid brightens and bleaches the skin by blocking both the synthesis of melanin pigment and the migration of melanin granules.
•
Thioctic acid: Thioctic acid is a powerful anti-oxidant suppressing the activity of free radicals in the skin, is antiinflammatory restores collagen structural changes.
2. ARMA-LIFT ALF MASK: Anti-Age Firming Mask Arma-Lift is a firming mask restoring the skin’s youthfulness and resilience, hydrating and evening out the complexion through special biopeptides creating an immediate effect. Active ingredients: •
SH Oligopeptide-1: enhances the healing of injuries, tones the skin and slows down the ageing process.
•
Arbutin: a vegetable ingredient with pronounced brightening and evening out effect.
•
Organic Vitamin E: potent anti-oxidant reduces cell damage caused by the free radicals.
•
Organic Vitamin A + E Complex: The vitamin complex strengthens the skin and restoring tone and resilience by stimulating the syntheses of collagen and elastin.
3. EU-SEB ES5 MASK: Matting, Anti-Inflammatory and Normalising Mask for Oily and Problem Skin Eu-Seb mask affects the deep skin structures decreasing the activity of sebaceous glands and cleansing the skin from within. The mask’s active ingredients change the sebum’s composition replacing thick and viscous fats with light omega fatty acids with an antibacterial and healing effect. This mask restores micro-circulation, improves the skin’s oxygenation and helps remove toxins Active Ingredients: •
Chamomilla Recutita Extract: Chamomile extract possesses a pronounced anti-inflammatory effect, quickly reducing swelling and inflammation, disinfects and decreases sebum production.
•
Aloe Ferox Extract: Compared to Aloe Vera, Aloe Ferox has a much more pronounced antibacterial, antiviral and anti-fungi effect. It is often referred to as ‘natural antibiotic’ for its quick effect on most infections.
•
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract: 3. Japanese Macha Green Tea extract cleanses the skin, eliminates toxins and greasy plugs in the sebaceous glands and follicles.
4. LIPO-OVAL LO5 MASK: Face slimming and antipuffiness mask Lipo-Oval mask contains the agents activating metabolic processes in the skin and fatty tissue of the face. The mask’s active ingredients stimulate the drainage of excessive liquid from hypodermic tissue quickly reducing malar bags and bags under eyes. Regular use leads to the reduction of double chin and restoration of sharper jawline; the face looks rested and visibly slimmer.
Dr Tiina Meder •
5. MYO-FIX MF5 MASK: Rejuvenating and Mimic Wrinkle Smoothing Mask Myo-Fix mask subtly reduces the excessively active facial expressions correcting mimic wrinkles and rejuvenating the face. Containing biotechnological peptides, it reduces the mobility of facial mimic muscles, filling in the existing fine lines and wrinkles, making the face look effortlessly serene. The neuromuscular blocking (myorelaxant) peptide-based ingredients is commonly nicknamed the ‘serene face solution’. Active Ingredients: •
Acetyl Hexapeptide-3: Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, a neuromyorelaxing peptide, reduces the mobility of the facial muscles and decreases the contractions of the mimic muscles.
•
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1: Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 helps restore the thickness of the dermis, hydrates and enhances the syntheses of collagen, elastin and HA.
•
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7: A cell messenger that restores the communication and metabolic processes in the mature skin. It stimulates the syntheses of collagen and elastin, tones up and moisturises the skin, restoring its elasticity and resilience.
•
SH Oligopeptide-1: Epidermis Growth Factor is a peptide able to restart the decelerated or stopped with age processes of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid’s syntheses in the skin. Growth factor enhances the healing of injuries, tones up the skin and slows down the ageing process. APJ
Active Ingredients: •
•
Dioscorea Opposita Root Extract: Chinese wild yam extract has been known for its rejuvenating and stimulating effect since ancient times. The primary active agent of yam, diosgenin, has a vaso-strengthening, draining and stimulating effect. Diosgenin’s effect is similar to that of the hormones stimulating the syntheses of collagen and elastin and restoring the skin’s elasticity and resilience. Pueraria Mirifica Extract: Pueraria Mirifica was considered a longevity food in Thailand. It has anti-oxidant properties and reduces the harmful impact of toxins and free radicals.
Centella Asiatica Extract: Centella Asiatica is often considered an anti-cellulite ingredient for its fat-splitting and anti-puffiness action. It restores the skin’s ability to regenerate, provides anti-inflammatory and a soothing effect on the skin.
All Meder Beauty Science masks can be used by both men and women of all ages. For these amazing masks and other advanced treatment contact Spectrum Science and Beauty. 1300 766 198. APJ 35
BOOKREVIEW
Grow and Sustain Your Injectable Business Deb Farnworth-Wood Grow and Sustain Your Injectable Business was written for cosmetic injectable practitioners, practice/clinic managers and, aesthetic, beauty salon or spa owners who wish to include cosmetic injectables as part of their business. This book provides thorough insight possible to the challenges that you will face as a provider of these services and enable you to grow and sustain your injectable business ethically and profitably. Grow and Sustain Your Injectable Business is a practical guide that offers comprehensive strategies on how to grow and sustain your cosmetic injectable business. It deals with issues ranging from start-up, finding a suitable business model and dealing with suppliers, through to attracting and retaining clients, managing complaints, marketing, profitability and more. It is the product of Deb Farnworth-Wood’s extensive knowledge and experience attained in over 29 years of management and ownership of health businesses, which included founding and growing the award-winning Australian Skin Clinics aesthetic franchise. WHO IS DEB FARNWORTH-WOOD? Deb Farnworth-Wood is a serial entrepreneur, and the founder of the world-leading medi-aesthetic franchise Australian Skin Clinics. Born in Kenya and raised in the UK, Deb’s remarkable story is one of moving to the other side of the world to retire - only to build a $70m business. Having spotted an opportunity to build a successful franchise model, Deb moved her family to the Gold Coast in 2007 and got down to work. She launched the franchise in 2011 and five years later, she had grown the business to 60 clinics across Australia and New Zealand and reshaped an ailing skincare
APJ 36
brand, scooping up multiple awards in the process. She was named Gold Coast Woman in Business of the Year 2017, and was a finalist in the EY Entrepreneur of the Year awards in 2016.
Deb’s career has been punctuated by ‘firsts’. She was the first non-doctor to become a partner in a UK medical practice, and her group was the first non-pharmacist to own a UK pharmacy. She also opened England’s first drivethru pharmacy. It’s a testament to her incredible vision and passion for the aesthetics industry that she continues to push the boundaries of business to this day. If your business model incorporates Injectable services for cosmetic purposes, we guarantee that you will gain from Deb’s incredible knowledge by purchasing her latest book Grow and Sustain Your Injectable Business - Available on Kindle Priced $11.95.
SWISS MADE PROFESSIONAL BIOTECH SKINCARE NEEDLE-FREE MIMIC WRINKLE CORRECTION
BEFORE
AFTER
NEEDLE-FREE MIMIC WRINKLE CORRECTION
BEFORE
AFTER
NEEDLE-FREE EYEBROW LIFTING
BEFORE
AFTER
UNIQUE PREBIOTIC THERPAY NORMAILISING STRATUM MICROBIUM
BEFORE
AFTER
Meder Beauty Science is a brand of professional cosmetics. We offer topical, non-invasive, very effective solutions to beauty professionals. We provide the best training experience so anyone can become a Meder Specialist. Certified professionals use Meder Beauty Science solutions in their daily practice with visible results and ultimate customer satisfaction. APJ 37
Contact Spectrum Science & Beauty on 1300 766 198
HEALTH
STATIN AND THE ROLE OF CHOLESTEROL IN THE BODY Gay Wardle
FOR MANY, THE MERE MENTION OF THE WORD STATIN sends shivers up their spine with thoughts of clogged arteries and an ailing heart on the verge of collapse. Cholesterol is not the evil villain it has been made out to be. It is a natural and normal component of our bodies with many useful purposes. In fact, we would not be alive and healthy if we did not have cholesterol. Our bodies produce approximately 1,000 milligrams per day which is used for many things to keep us functioning. Looking at it analytically less than 20 per cent of the cholesterol in your blood comes from your diet, the rest is produced by the liver. Therefore, cholesterol is essential to maintaining good health. The general belief is that cholesterol causes major heart disease and the less cholesterol we have the healthier we are. Hence it is recommended we reduce our cholesterol levels in hopes of avoiding a heart attack or stroke. This could be a naive approach as we do need cholesterol. WHAT IS COLESTEROL AND WHY DO WE NEED IT? It is a waxy substance and as I have already mentioned is predominantly made in the liver, however, we do absorb a small amount from our diets. The cholesterol that is made in the liver is known as a blood cholesterol where the digested cholesterol is known as dietary cholesterol. It is the source of animal foods that contributes mainly to dietary cholesterol. Cholesterol is a member of the large family of chemical compounds known as lipids. Even though it is a lipid, it is chemically different from fat. Our body fat and the fat we digest belong to the subgroup “glycerol esters”, where blood cholesterol belongs to the subgroup “sterols”.
APJ 38
I would like to point out here that cholesterol testing that is performed through blood samples, only tests the blood circulating cholesterol and not the cholesterol that is digested in foods. There are two types of cholesterol: •
LDL - known as bad cholesterol, associated with the buildup of plaque in the arteries. Hence statins are prescribed to reduce cholesterol levels.
•
HDL - known as good cholesterol, helps excrete excess cholesterol from your body
Why do we need cholesterol? Our bodies use cholesterol to make Vitamin D, sex hormones (estrogen, progesterone and testosterone), it also makes bile acids that are needed to help with digestion. A very important compound of lipids that we cannot do without. WHAT IS STATIN? Statin is a lipophilic or fat-soluble drug often prescribed to individuals with high cholesterol levels. WHY IS CHOLESTEROL IMPORTANT TO BRAIN FUNCTION? Cholesterol is the most abundant organic molecule in the brain, which contains almost a quarter of the unesterified cholesterol present in the entire body. Low cholesterol can affect any and all brain functions. To have normal brain function there needs to be sufficient quantities to fulfill its role. In fact, the brain accounts for only two per cent of the mass of the body and contains almost 25% of the body’s cholesterol. The brain’s need for cholesterol is so great that it manufactures its own cholesterol to supplement
what is produced by the liver. It has been identified as the synaptogenic factor responsible for the development of synapses, the nerve connections in the brain. Then there are serotonin receptors in the brain that require cholesterol to function. If there is no cholesterol then these receptors will not activate. Serotonin is the chemical in the brain that makes us feel happy. If cholesterol levels are low there will be little serotonin and there are studies that link suicides and depression to low levels of cholesterol. As we have seen our brain depends on a supply of cholesterol for optimal function. Cholesterol in the blood is transported by large carrier proteins, such as low-density lipoprotein (LDL) and highdensity lipoprotein (HDL), which are too large to pass through the blood-brain barrier. Sadly, the highly lipophilic Statin drugs can easily pass through the blood-brain barrier and can therefore directly interfere with the synthesis of cholesterol by the helper cells in the brain. Is it any wonder that a major side effect of the statin drugs has an impact on memory and processing information? One of the major complaints of people taking Statin medications is that they have foggy brain and forgetfulness. As we age the level of cholesterol in our brain declines increasing the risk of neuro-degeneration. The importance of cholesterol being delivered to the brain may help Alzheimer’s patients. INFECTION As I have previously discussed, cholesterol circulates
throughout our bodies via the blood and it is known as a form of lipoproteins – these are lipids with proteins attached which create emulsifiers. This is very important as these lipoproteins carry cholesterol via our bloodstream and aids in protecting the body against endotoxins. There are studies that show where cholesterol levels are low the risk of infections can be higher. Endotoxins are released during the infection, the lipoproteins that carry cholesterol through our blood stream help to protect us from these endotoxins. Endotoxins are released during stages of infection, if the cholesterol is low it will have an effect on this action and the body is more susceptible to infection. When blood cholesterol is low white blood cells which are the work horse of the immune system are under produced and the body is less capable of fighting off infections, neutralising toxins and removing rogue cells. If we have a deficiency in cholesterol then harmful bacteria will not be impaired and will compromise our immune system. As skin or dermal therapists, it is important for us to understand the role of cholesterol on the immune system in neutralising harmful toxins, helping to protect the body against harmful bacteria. For example, Staphylococcus aureus is a common bacterium that causes a variety of infections including skin infections (impetigo), connective tissue infections (cellulitis), breast infections (mastitis), blood infections (sepsis), lung infections (pneumonia), bone infections (osteomyelitis), heart infections (endocarditis), toxic shock syndrome and food poisoning and there are others.
APJ 39
Cholesterol is a significant component of the cell membrane that has a massive influence over the fluidity of the cell and is essential for cellular communication. Without cholesterol in the cell membrane we will have a dysfunction and poor alignment of the bilayers. When this happens, we have an indirect effect on membrane receptors. As we have identified, cholesterol is essential to every cell membrane throughout the entire body, without it the cell membrane becomes dysfunctional and the cell deteriorates. The lipid membrane of the mitochondria needs and uses cholesterol, without it the cell will again deteriorate. CHOLESTEROL AND THE MANUFACTURE OF HORMONES Our sex hormones are steroid hormones, cholesterol is an essential component for metabolising these steroid hormones. Estrogen, progesterone, testosterone and DHEA are all hormones that are synthesised by cholesterol. Then you can add to this list the adrenal hormones, aldosterone and cortisol. All of these hormones are essential to your health and none can be made without cholesterol. Their production changes in relation to the levels of cholesterol in the blood.
It is important to have healthy levels of cholesterol to help protect against these infections by aiding the immune system in neutralising the toxins secreted by this and other organisms. CHOLESTEROL AND THE ROLE OF VITAMIN D There are many essential minerals that are activated by cholesterol, one of these being Vitamin D. Vitamin D is one of the major nutrient deficiencies and is linked to many diseases and auto-immune diseases such as type 2 diabetes and osteoporosis. Osteoporosis is a disease that affects bones cholesterol and Vitamin D is needed for building strong bones and protects us against this disease. Cholesterol converts to Vitamin D. Bone tissue is continually being broken down and rebuilt. As we age, the process of breaking bone down occurs more rapidly than rebuilding, consequently, bone density declines with age. The importance of having higher blood levels of cholesterol will assist in having dense bone structure, so that the aged have fewer fractures. Lowering cholesterol weakens the bones and increases risk of osteoporosis. Vitamin D also plays a very protective role in many types of cancer, bacterial and viral infections (including dental cavities and periodontal disease), arthritis, inflammatory bowel disease, diabetes, cardiovascular disease macular degeneration, hypertension and depression. Studies are also showing vitamin D to be important for brain function as well. CELL MEMBRANES AND CHOLESTEROL Cholesterol is found as a structural component in every cell throughout our bodies but it is most prominent in the nerve cells. It constitutes a major component of the myelin sheathe that coats the long axons of the neurons and forms a substantial part of the cell membrane. As a major component of nerve tissue, it is the most common molecule in the brain. It is absolutely essential that we have cholesterol for the transmission of nerve impulses and the communication between neurons. We need it to store memories and then to retrieve those memories. APJ 40
The role of these hormones is to regulate sexual differentiation and behaviour, mediate menstrual cycle and pregnancy, as well as regulate the excretion of salt and water via the kidneys, affect carbohydrate, protein and lipid metabolism and influence a wide variety of other vital functions including inflammatory reactions and the capacity to cope with stress. Bile too gets its start as cholesterol. Bile is secreted by the liver and stored in the gallbladder. When we eat a meal, bile is released into the digestive tract to emulsify dietary fat and fat-soluble nutrients and facilitate their digestion and assimilation. Without bile we could not digest fats, which are necessary for good health. DIABETES One of the concerns now being identified with statin use is the drugs adverse effect on the body’s ability to properly regulate glucose and insulin. Evidence shows that statins increase a person’s risk of developing type 2 diabetes. This is bad news for those with Alzheimers or other neurodegenerative conditions. Diabetes can accelerate the onset and progression of neuro-degeneration. IN CONCLUSION As the research on cholesterol continues, its importance in human health is becoming increasingly evident. Many medical professionals are questioning the sanity of prescribing cholesterol-lowing drugs. Some investigators are even suggesting that a time may come when doctors will be prescribing cholesterol-raising medications to patients to take advantage of the many benefits rendered by this essential substance. Low fat diets are dangerous for many reasons. They have a high sugar content, increasing the risk of inflammation throughout the body and they will lower cholesterol levels. Asking about statins during consultations is a very important question as you gain an understanding what this drug is doing to every cell in the body. It could give you a better understanding on which approach you might take with your treatment options. APJ
PT SE S ! & KE E N LY TA OP JU IN W O N
Accelerate your Aesthetics career with a degree •
Gain an associate degree in two years
•
Exclusive professional development opportunities
•
Be supported by a dedicated success coach
•
Accredited & nationally recognised
•
FEE-HELP available
•
Flexible online study options
Visit tachw.edu.au or call 1300 227 603 for more information Australasian College of Health & Wellness Pty Ltd; ABN 16 139036 721, TEQSA ID PRV13002; an approved FEE-HELP provider; Level 21, 580 George St. Sydney NSW 2000
APJ 41
BUSINESS
PROTECTING YOUR PROFITS FROM
THEFT IN THE WORKPLACE Deb Farnworth-Wood THE ISSUE OF THEFT IN THE WORKPLACE is gradually becoming an epidemic and our industry is no exception. We know this because we regularly consult with business owners who are in this predicament and unsure how to navigate through these issues of confronting and exposing and the culprit and dealing with them. Interestingly enough, the most common obstacle in resolving these issues is usually a psychological one – the feeling of guilt in confronting their staff member, even when they are sure who it is. The most common reason for this is that over time they have built quite a personal relationship with them and feel awkward in confronting them. In fact, many find it hard to actually believe this is happening to them even though the facts are very evident. Deb Farnworth-Wood is an experience business woman and the founder of the world-leading medi-aesthetic franchise known as the Australian Skin Clinics. Born in Kenya and
APJ 42
raised in the UK, Deb’s remarkable story is one of moving to the other side of the world to retire - only to build a $70m business. Deb has worked with numerous staff members and knows first-hand the frequency that theft is happening in the workplace. As a skilled and competent business operator who is an expert systems developer, she has devised an effective business management strategy that she is willing to share with us. We are delighted that Deb has accepted to speak at our APAN Aesthetics Conference in Melbourne on this very topic. In this brief article she shares some of her valuable knowledge on the subject of theft. Erosion of profit is by far the greatest risk to any business. It is often difficult to see or quantify. Business owners are often reluctant to talk about it – it’s almost like we are admitting a weakness if it exists - and yet, the success, or failure of your
business may well depend on your ability to assess and manage theft and fraud risks. During my career I’m saddened to say I’ve seen over 70 people lose their jobs because of their theft or embezzlement. That would average 2.5 per year but the reality is that the frequency has increased in recent years. The culprits have ranged from senior management to cleaners, and in industries spanning hospitality, retail, medical, pharmacy and of course aesthetics. I’ve seen creative accounting, cash and stock theft credit card fraud plus numerous other ways of defrauding business owners out of their profits. It seems that no business is safe but there are ways in which you can take control, safeguard your business and make it difficult for staff members to steal. The folloing three things, many normally honest people are tempted over to the dark side. It is often the staff member that you least expect that steals from you. The adage of “look after your staff and they will look after you” doesn’t seem to work as far as theft is concerned. In fact, in my experience some of the worst thefts have occurred by some of my most valued staff. The only way in which you can minimise the damage is by having good control systems combined with audit and compliance monitoring.
SOLVE SKIN LETHARGY... WITH AN ENERGY PEEL by Dermaenergy
• • • •
The Power of a Energising Pumpkin Peel • • • •
Energising Refreshing Refining Rebuilding
Strengthening Smooth & Supple Instantly Softer Skin Energy Enhancing
The three things I have identified are: •
Opportunity
•
Need
•
Motive
As employers, we cannot control the “Need” but we can at least learn to spot it and be aware when it presents. Common “needs” are: •
Lifestyle - expensive houses, or boats, cars or even trips away to be funded
•
Expensive commitments such as weddings
•
Addictions - recreational drugs, gambling and alcohol
•
Changes in circumstances such as divorce or separation
Active Ingredients: • • • •
Pumpkin 30% Lactic Acid 10% Glycolic Acid 10% Salicylic Acid 2%
• • • •
Pulp: Carrot + Pumpkin Protein: Pea + Rice Peptide: Matrixyl Energy: ATP
The justification is interesting. It seems that with a strong enough need anyone can justify their behaviour. Example have included, “she didn’t let me have a Saturday off”, “I am unappreciated”. “I was asked to do overtime”, and many more perfectly reasonable actions by employers. So out of the three – need, motive and opportunity – the only one that we can take control of is the opportunity. This is where good systems and procedures come in, combined with some business savvy around that metrics of your business. Being able to eyeball the till report and intuitively know whether it reflects the day’s activity is a good skill, but so is being able to mentally drill down on more profitable services, your occupancy rates and so on. Finally, when it is all gone wrong and you need to audit your business to identify those lost profits, it is important to be able to work systematically through a series of checks. I recently audited a business and discovered what appears to be wide scale theft and fraud so to help out the APAN community, I have put together a “How to Audit your Own Business” fact sheet with examples from a real-life audit and the methodology used. APJ You can download this FREE from my website www. debfarnworthwood.com/resources together with a Free ebook – 36 Ways Your Staff Will Steal from Your Business.
Enquiries, please visit: dermaenergy.com.au 1300 799 709 or email care@cliniccare.com.au REQUEST A FREE SAMPLE TODAY
@DermaEnergy #PumpkinProteinPeel
Created and distributed by Clinic Care Established 2007
APJ 43
CONFERENCE
COSMETEX 2019 WHAT WAS FEATURED THIS YEAR ATTENDING THIS YEAR’s Cometex Conference TERRY EVERITT represented APAN and we are delighted to share with you some of the event’s educational highlights and content. After a hiatus in 2018, Cosmetex conference this year returned to Sydney April 5-6th. Cosmetex is the conference of the Australasian College of Cosmetic Surgery (ACCS) with the program covering topics in both cosmetic surgery and cosmetic medicine. ACCS while being a not-for-profit organisation, is serious regarding education and by the time a doctor achieves Fellowship of the College, they have spent at least 12 years of medical and surgical training. The opening plenary session commenced at 8 am being chaired by Dr John Flynn from Queensland who introduced the ACCS President Dr Irene Kushelew who welcomed everyone to the conference. While outside the scope of this review to articulate each speaker and topic, I will highlight a few sessions that would be of interest to this journal’s audience. An interesting line-up of speakers for the first session all relating to legal matters, which was a valuable learning experience for most. I think many were surprised to find out from a specialist lawyer what the media can do (and take regarding information) about the practitioner and the practice. Short story is anything you have on your website is in the public domain and can be used. Then moving to defamation – what happens when a client makes disparaging remarks about you or your clinic or professional conduct. Did you know on-line statements crouch the comment with ‘in my opinion’, generally this is not seen as defamation as is only their option, not fact? If, however they do make factual statements such as “they didn’t know what they were doing, caused pain, kept me waiting far too long” etc, these statements are considered a fact and therefore also as defamation, so action can be taken. This does not mean that you will win the case as the courts look at Freedom of Speech, which frequently wins. The final advice was, do a cost benefit APJ 44
analysis as to whether it is worth acting against someone who had made disparaging remakes about your or your business? This was followed by a presentation by Avant, a major medical indemnity company, regarding the risks and responsibilities of teleconsultations. This of course has been featured by the media with the ‘skype’ consultations for cosmetic injectables. A few surprises here for some of the doctors as to what is actual law and what is thought as possible. One concern here is that the prescribing requirements are managed by the State so there are a few minor yet significant differences to the requirements. Essentially, each patient requires a separate consultation and script written by the doctor for every treatment stating the area and volume to be treated and product that will be used. For those of you who have nurse injectors coming to your business, are you ensuring that this is done as this is also your responsibility. Depending on the situation, however you may be liable as these were your clients on your premises who may be injected with a schedule 4 drug without a prescription. Sasha Barclay, who heads the Regulatory Compliance Section of the Therapeutic Goods Administration spoke regarding illegal product and equipment coming into Australia. Much is brought via the internet and shipped to Australia with TGA and Boarder Control working closely together in the interception of such imports - totally amazing the statistics surrounding this. This related to the nurse injector scenario as some have been using imported product – and while the product may have the same name and from the same overseas company, it is not the product that has TGA registration, so it is illegal to use it in Australia. Again, you need to be sure that the neuromuscular and dermal filler products used on your premises are legal in Australia. Remember only a doctor registered in Australia can legally obtain such products, not the nurses who can only administer such under a doctor’s order. She further confirmed that the Boarder Control have stopped several overseas doctors and nurses coming into Australia
with suitcases full of drugs and equipment to undertake treatments here.
of injectables to create various contours that reflected light giving a more illuminous texture to the skin.
On a different note, TGA will begin public consultation soon reviewing the issue of whether they should approve all equipment (no matter what manufacturers say the equipment does) that can be used for therapeutic purposes. This means potentially all IPL, Lasers, HIFU, Plasma, etc machines that have a therapeutic purpose would have to go through the same process as a medical device needs in order to comply and be registered. This will change the aesthetic equipment market and device availability drastically. More on this soon when I get information from the Assistant Director, Device Vigilance and Monitoring Medical Device Branch who will head this proposed action.
A convocation ceremony was held at the conclusion of the seminar program where those doctors who had passed all examinations were welcomed to the College as Fellows. Finally, the clock decided it was wine o’clock, so the welcome reception was underway providing more opportunity to talk to the exhibitors and fellow delegates.
Morning tea most welcome after this heavy legal, yet totally worthwhile, session and then different streams were available to attend. The surgical stream focused on breast surgery with the medical stream having 1.5-hour workshops from two exhibitors. Merz Aesthetics undertook a didactic session followed by live injections of Radiesse + (a refined version of their existing Radiesse dermal filler) consisting of calcium hydroxylapatite with added Lidocaine, by Suzanna Luo, a Sydney-based cosmetic surgeon. Followed by a presentation of Ultherapy using ultrasound technology for neocollagenesis. Concurrent was Innovative Medical Technologies presenting their Fotona machine using Er:YAG for gynaecology concerns. After lunch breast surgery continued under the direction of Dr Anoop Rostogi, who presented a fascinating lecture on ‘Breast Implant Illness – The state of scientific literature verses the level of public paranoia’. This was followed by a session by Dr Tony Mangubat from USA on Mastopexy.
Saturday saw the education continue at a fast pace with the morning primarily given to facial rejuvenation using a variety of techniques. Really insightful was the presentation by two oculoplastic surgeons on the topic of ‘Facial filler induced blindness.” While somewhat rare, it has occurred in Australia a few times. Different exhibitors provided interactive presentations with the afternoon given to ‘Lower face Beautification with Biostimulants and jawline contouring’ presented and demonstrated by five presenters. Exhibitors included some of the finest equipment distributors in Australia and the suppliers of all cosmetic injectables along with a host of other suppliers and distributors making a wide selection of shopping opportunities for new procedures within the clinic. It was good to see Cosmetex back again after its little rest of last year providing ongoing education in both cosmetic medicine and surgery. While the information possibly would be too medical/surgical for most skin therapists, given it is geared to medical and surgical enhancement, Cosmetex is one to attend for the serious ones who want to work in this cosmetic arena. APJ The dates for the next Cosmetex are not confirmed at this time however do check www.cosmetex.org where they will appear. Cosmetex 2020 will be a worthwhile endeavour to pursue.
The plenary session was interesting concerning ‘Managing expectations with redistribution of light’. This was regarding use APJ 45
COSMETIC CHEMISTRY
COSMETIC FORMULATIONS AND THE ISSUE OF STABILITY Jacine Greenwood
FOR EVERY SKIN THERAPIST the issue of efficacy and results in their treatment outcomes and homecare is paramount to their reputation. So, when working with skincare it pays to ensure that your cosmetic formulations are able to deliver their intended outcomes. Stability of the active ingredients and the formula itself is critical to results. An unstable formula where the active ingredient does not retain its potency and efficacy will fail to deliver the intended benefits to the skin, not to mention that it can actually harm the skin. In this article, ingredient expert Jacine Greenwood discusses the key issues that contribute to instability of a formula. All cosmetic products characteristics including pH, odour, colour and viscosity will change over time. Even the best formulated product is not immune to this phenomenon. Shelf life is the length of time that a product can maintain acceptable performance and look to the consumer without the generation of hazardous by-products such as microbes. Shelf life is determined by stability testing and preservation testing of cosmetics. This will determine the life of the product before the product should no longer be used. This can also be known as the expiry date. In Australia there is no legal requirement to have expiry dates on cosmetics that are not considered to be therapeutic in nature. The exception to this rule is cosmetics that claim sunscreen as a secondary feature, example a BB cream. It is however a legal requirement to have a batch number on the product. Sunscreens and medicated creams come under the regulations of the TGA (Therapeutic Goods Administration) and have a different set of regulations and rules that are
APJ 46
required to be followed. All products that are registered with the TGA MUST have an expiry date. In Europe all products are expected to have at least 30 months shelf life. If the product has a shelf life of less than 36 months then it must have an expiry date. There are six main reasons for instability in cosmetic formulas: • Wrong choice of preservative •
Inadequate preservation
•
Inadequate antioxidants
•
No gums or polymers
•
Incompatible raw materials
•
Failure to follow the processing or handling needed when formulating raw materials.
INCORRECT CHOICE OF PRESERVATION One of the biggest reasons for instability in formulas is choosing a preservative that is not the correct choice. The preservative does not meet the pH requirements needed for the product. There are many preservatives on the market that have microbial properties but are not broad spectrum. This leaves the formula open to bacterial or yeast and mould contamination. The other reason for instability is the preservation system is not robust enough to be able to offer sufficient microbial, yeast and mould protection. At the beginning of product development once a final formula has been signed off preservation efficacy testing should be conducted. If this has
been performed and the product is unstable then you know it is not the preservative but insufficient supporting ingredients such as gums or polymers that give structure to the formula, or it is lack of antioxidant protection to the formula. Oil-based or anhydrous formulas still need preservatives. There is a common misconception that because there is no water in the formula that preservatives are not required. Lipsticks are a classic example. Water is not used, however because they come into contact with mucous membranes there is the potential for moisture and saliva to remain on the lipstick. Instagram images of lipsticks growing mould exist; simply because the formulator did not address the need for adequate microbial protection in an anhydrous formula. The more natural ingredients that are in a formula the harder it is to preserve. Natural gums are also a food source for microbial growth. It is much harder to provide long term microbial protection for natural products versus synthetic polymers and gums and synthetic actives. Natural actives are a microbial food source and synthetic actives are not a food source. It is vitally important that natural cosmetics have undergone preservation testing to ensure that they will maintain shelf life for the consumer and remain safe to use. With the birth of Indy beauty and many hobbyists launching brands the importance of ensuring the product is preserved adequately cannot be emphasised enough. THE pH DRIFT AND WHY IT IS IMPORTANT The pH of a formula will naturally alter over the life of a product. The pH can vary between + 5% or –5% from the
starting pH value. That means that if the required pH of a product is 5.5 then it is possible that the formula can vary over the life of the product between 5.225 and 5.78. This is important that the preservative system can tolerate these potential variations. If not then over time the preservation system may be rendered not effective and microbial growth will begin. The wrong choice of preservative becomes evident with natural pH drift of a formula. Some preservation systems such as p-anisic acid is only effective for fungus at a pH below 5.5. This means if pH drift goes in the direction of increasing pH the preservation would not be adequate and you would get microbial growth occurring. Sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate is a broad-spectrum preservative in combination, however the pH is required to be less than 5.5 of the finished product. If the formula had a final pH of 5.5 and the formula experienced pH drift the product could potentially become unstable if the pH was to increase. The pH is also important for cosmetic actives as some actives are not stable in different pHs in a formula. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate for example must be added to the water phase of the formula below a pH of 6 for the water phase even though it is oil soluble. Normal water has a pH of 7 which means that the water would need to have added citric acid or some other ingredient to lower the pH prior to even adding it to the formula. Failure to do this would mean the product would discolour over time. The formula would change from white to orange as the vitamin C becomes unstable, despite it being very stable normally.
APJ 47
Incompatible ingredients are another reason for instability in formulas. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is incompatible with Hectorites which are clays that are often used to give viscosity to a formula. They are not compatible with Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and will discolour the product and make the formula potentially separate. Citrus essential oils are another ingredient which often results in incompatibilities with preservation systems causing discolouration of formulas long term.
INCOMPATIBLE RAW MATERIALS Some ingredients are not compatible with other ingredients. It is necessary for formulators to check raw material data sheets to ensure that ingredients are compatible. Some ingredients are not compatible with acrylates or carbomer. Some actives such as vitamin C and copper peptides are also not compatible together in a formula. The results of incompatible ingredients could be discoloration and separation of the formula.
No antioxidants – Antioxidants are vital for protecting the lipid or oil phase of the formula. Natural oils are prone to oxidation and this can lead to instability in formulas. Tocopherol Acetate is an antioxidant but is not sufficient to protect the integrity of formulas. Rosemary Antioxidant is also another antioxidant that is commonly used that will protect the lipid phase of a formula from oxidation. It does however, have a herbaceous odour and this can be unacceptable to some consumers. The use of lipids that are not natural vegetable oils results in more stable formulas with a longer shelf life as they do not oxidise.
FAILURE TO FOLLOW PROCESSING OF RAW MATERIALS Gums and polymers in particular have very specific processing requirements. Some gums need acidification of the gum in order to “hydrate” the gum. What this means is that you need to alter the pH of the formula in order for the gum to swell. If you fail to do this then the product will not thicken. It is imperative that the cosmetic formulator read all data sheets to ensure that they are aware of all necessary processing required of the ingredient they are using.
NO GUM OR THICKNERS There are some emulsifiers that do not require a gum or thickener however most products need a gum or thickener in there to provide a network of polymers to stabilise a formula particularly when exposed to high heat or cold. Extremes of temperature can make formulas not as stable. Extreme cold can freeze products and can lead to separation of products. The use of glycols and humectants in formulas are used for this reason to ensure the product does not freeze during extreme cold. Examples are butylene glycol, propylene glycol and glycerin.
APJ 48
Instability can occur, but should be uncommon in finished goods. Cosmetic products launched onto the market should have already undergone stability testing and preservation testing to ensure they will have adequate shelf life. Colour variation is not necessarily an indication of instability and can occur in some natural products and raw materials. Significant colour change however, can be an indicator of issues within a formula. Most formulas should give a shelf life of at least 18 months to be viable from a commercial perspective. They should have a stable consistency and odour. APJ
PMU
CONFERENCE
MONDAY 23RD SEPTEMBER 2019 Legends Mantra Gold Coast
The Contextual Integration of Art & Science
A leading educational event for Cosmetic Tattooists DUE TO POPULAR DEMAND APAN is launching its Inaugural COSMETIC TATTOO CONFERENCE. Our objective is to deliver something very different, but extremely valuable. The key focus will be in-depth technical education and thought-provoking discussions on an extensive range of topics.
• Panel discussion on how to overcome current challenges and grow your business
CONTENT WILL INCLUDE:
• Consultation form – getting it right for best practice
• Technically advanced Cosmetic Tattooing Anti-ageing techniques for the mature client
There will be a small exhibition that will support this event. Attendees will receive a Statement of Attendance and they will gain 6 CPD Points towards their Continuing Professional Development if they are a CTARP Registered Practitioner.
• Correcting Micro-blading errors and how to prevent them • Cosmetic tattoo removal – what happens to the skin and how to minimise risk • Cosmetic Tattooing procedures for Cancer Patients • Scalp Micropigmentation – advances in techniques • Two-tone smoky eye-liner technique • The new trend in 3-D lip techniques • Updates on infection control and topical anaesthetic regulations • Advanced Ombre techniques in achieving the perfect eyebrow • Microblading and the next step in advancing your techniques
• Updates on colour theory • The issue of self-regulation and ethics
COST: APAN MEMBERS $550 – NON-MEMBERS $595 EARLY-BIRDS SPECIAL until 20th July: MEMEBERS $495 – NON-MEMBERS $550. Cost includes: Full buffet lunch, morning and afternoon tea, Certificate of Attendance. Our objective is to create a dynamic learning and networking environment with quality in-depth education that is affordable for everyone. If you are a cosmetic tattooist or you are trained in microblading please prioritise to be at this event. We guarantee you will gain amazing information.
REGISTER TODAY! WWW.APANCONF.COM | 07 5593 0360 | INFO@APANETWORK.COM
APJ 49
BEAUTY
Beauty starts as an
INSIDE JOB Tina Viney
WHILE ALL OUR FACES are made uniquely different, yet so many individuals in today’s society strive to match their look to a famous celebrity, rather than embrace and optimise their own positive features and uniqueness. The grand design of the incredible variety of faces in the world was intended so that each one of us could be unique and recognisable. I would agree with that, because while I am an identical twin, despite numerous similarities with my sister, we still have some differences, even though we both were conceived from the same egg. Yet many of us do not value the unique traits each of us are born with. A new study by the University of California explains how facial traits vary more than body traits. The most variable traits are in the “triangle region” between the eyes, nose and mouth. The eyes, mouth, nose, ear, all have unique features and characteristics. All added together, they make a unique you – 1-in-7-billion, how amazing is that? See those curves and ridges of your ear? You’re the only person in the world with that exact shape. The ear is such a unique identifier. In fact, soon you may be able to unlock and answer the phone by simply pressing it to the ear. It’s hardly surprising that Yahoo is currently developing technology to unlock smart phones with an ear scanner. Patterns of elevations and depressions in your lips are as unique as fingerprints. At least, according to another study published in the Journal of Forensic Dental Sciences. Did you know detectives could use a kiss as evidence? That’s right, lip prints are being used as identification in court in some cases. Although each person is unique, there is an attractive factor that influences the way we see each other and perceive beauty. For centuries and in every human culture, people have always had their own ideal of beauty and physical attractiveness. In ancient Egypt, slender women with high waists and symmetrical faces were seen as beautiful. Whereas in ancient Greece, they worshiped the androgynous figure. Interestingly, men faced a much higher standard of beauty and perfection than women. And of course, to the Italian Renaissance,
APJ 50
when a full body, light hair and light skin were thought of as superior indications of beauty. BEAUTY IS IN THE EYE OF THE BEHOLDER It is said that “Beauty is in the eye of the beholder”, but you can waste your life trying to please the wrong beholder. Famous Olympic athlete and motivational speak Kristen Armstrong says “When it comes to beauty, each of us carries baggage from childhood… I’ve fretfully hung clothes of every size in my wardrobe, messed with makeup when I should have slapped on sunscreen and gone outside to play. I’ve eaten close to nothing in an effort to stay small… wasted time worrying I wasn’t pretty enough when I should have been enjoying the things that make me interesting”. Throughout history the definition of beauty has shifted to reflect society. In the 1920s’ women wore bras to flatten their chests and wore clothing with the objective of elongating their appearance, giving them a curve-less look. Skip to the 1950s where an obsession with the hourglass figure was made famous by Marilyn Monroe, while in the 60s the thin and frail Twiggy in her mini skirt and heavy eye makeup was considered beautiful and celebrated. As we look back in time there are endless examples of how feminine beauty standards have changed. Due to social media influence nowadays, these changes occur faster than ever. Regardless of background, country or culture, women still hold themselves to always-changing beauty standards. They continue to focus on how they can fit into society’s beauty standards. Nowadays, what is sold as beautiful is tall, thin, with clear and perfect skin. Those who do not fit into these stereotypes are not beautiful, don’t progress, and are not happy. According to a recent study by the time many girls reach the middle of primary school 40-70 per cent of them are dissatisfied with two or more parts of their body, and body satisfaction hits rock bottom between the ages of 12 and 15. Countless studies currently confirm that consumers are more
obsessed with celebrities now than ever before, so much so that there is an increase in surgical requests for celebrity procedures. This trend is fuelled by an all-consuming media society, where every aspect of their lives is lived online and through social media. The alarming statistics also confirm that 40% of millennials have either undergone a cosmetic procedure or are considering one next year. Plus, they spend so much time on social media. So, it’s no surprise that they are being swayed by key influencers and celebrities talking about which treatments they’re having done. CHANGING THE PERCEPTION OF BEAUTY As practitioners, how can we change the perception that beauty is not simply one standard that everyone should adhere to? In our profession we often have the privilege of spending a substantial amount of time with our clients or patients, sometimes one or two hours. How can we include in our objectives to help nurture a more positive self-image with all our clients? Each person is an individual, whose real identity is not confined to a static reflection of their features, but actually starts from within. Qualities such as grace, kindness and compassion are equality important as unique qualities that define who we are. It is also critical that when we identify these qualities in others that we acknowledge and celebrate them and reinforce our clients’ self-confidence and selfesteem. While working to enhance their skin and improve their appearance it is equally important to acknowledge that beauty is actually quite diverse and cannot be reduced to one model.
In our industry you will encounter (particularly with younger clients who are still seeking to define who they are) those who will border on the obsession for excessive procedures in search for perfection. As a professional, if you believe they don’t need a particular procedure, you have a duty of care to articulate that. In our article on Dysmorphia featured in the spring issue of APJ 2018 we identified that obsession for perfection has its roots as a mental disorder - choose not to feed that disorder by yielding to consumer demands for excessive procedures that you do not believe are healthy or warranted. Highlight their unique qualities and characteristics and stress how you can assist them to become the best version of themselves. LATEST COSMETIC MEDICINE TRENDS The latest trends in plastic surgery and aesthetic medicine are now stepping away from stereotype standards and focusing more on helping patients find their own beauty, enhancing as well as preserving what unique features and qualities are already there. We should be doing the same. BE AN INFLUENCER FOR UNIQUE BEAUTY As a professional you are considered an expert who has the skills and knowledge to influence your client to choose wisely what is best for them now and for their long-term benefit. Use your expert knowledge to guide and encourage them to embrace a healthy mindset. Do not allow them to manipulate you to deliver something that you consider to be excessive and based on an unhealthy standard of beauty. Help them discover and embrace their true unique beauty and guide them to not be slaves to fleeting trends that are here today and will be gone tomorrow. We are part of an amazing industry where we have the skills to transform individuals to become the very best that they can be. Let’s make it happen. APJ
Each one of us has a responsibility to make sure this happens by reinforcing a healthy and well-balanced definition of beauty.
APJ 51
PRODUCT INNOVATIONS
3
1
RAPID REPAIR SERUM New from Dr Anne-Marie’s Dermal Care
Rapid Repair Serum is the new addition to Dr Ann-Marie’s Dermal Care skincare range. It contains a synergy of active ingredients in a serum formula to quickly begin the rejuvenation process, stimulating collagen and elastin production in the skin while, keeping the skin hydrated, giving it a youthful glow. Due of the healing properties of the active ingredients Rapid Repair Serum can be used on any skin type. It contains Calendula and Cucumber oils, as well as other precious oils, Hyaluronic acid to enhance hydration and healing, while the addition of Matrixyl Peptide 3000 stimulates the proteins responsible for skin rejuvenation. Rapid Repair Serum is a valuable addition targeted towards users of high-end technologies, such as laser IPL, Microdermabrasion and LED, etc. Contact Dr Anne-Marie’s Dermal Care info@dramdermalcare.com.au www.dramdermalcare.com.au
2
1
THE BOTTOMLESS CLEANSER Never pay for a cleanser again!
Exclusively professional and strictly not online, we, at SKINFAKTOR AUSTRALIA are committed to empowering the professional with innovative strategies that present exceptional value for everyone! Create excitement and loyalty by gifting your customers with a Deep Cleanser REFILL every time they purchase their SKINFAKTOR products! Call SKINFAKTOR AUSTRALIA on 1300 135 294 to discover how you can safeguard your business against the DIYers and online market.
APJ 52
4 3
CLAIRDERM SPF50+ SUNSCREEN “Step into the Light”
Clairderm SPF50+Moisturising Daily Defence Lotion has you covered Proudly Australian made, Clairderm SPF50+ Moisturising Daily Defence Lotion, offers broad spectrum, UVA/UVB protection for everyday use and pre-and post-treatment care. Specially formulated to provide invisible coverage, it’s fragrance free, fast absorbing, extra light, with no traces of stickiness and oiliness, making it ideal for all skin types, especially oily skin prone to breakouts. In addition, it leaves the skin feeling soft, supple and moisturised, with a matte finish and no “ghosting” or white residue. Just perfect to use under make up and over serums. For more information about the great introductory offers contact Clairderm Medical Aesthetics on 1300 781 239 or email office@clairderm.com or visit www.clairderm.com
4
2
REMOVING SKIN IRREGULARITIES MADE EASY With Clinical Skin Clear II
The well-loved Skin Clear system from ClinicalPro has just gone through an upgrade! The Version 2 has been updated to include features to enhance user-control for stronger and faster treatment options. Now with two handpieces for speed, it can deliver more efficient non-invasive removal of minor skin irregularities and lesions. ClinicalPro have a very special introductory offer. Contact ClinicalPro 1800 628 999 for further details
APJ 53
PRODUCT INNOVATIONS
5
JANE IREDALE LAUNCHES NEW, LIMITED EDITION COLLECTION
5
Create a flawless finish in the perfect shade is the objective of the new Limited Edition, COMPLEXION, PERFECTION KIT, launched as part of jane iredale’s 25th Anniversary. The customisable kit for creating a flawless finish containing four of our best-selling products is an easy way to increase your sales with this amazing and highly popular value pack. Containing, a PurePressed Base mineral foundation, luxuriously soft vegan friendly Handi Brush for smooth, even coverage, POMMISST Hydration Spray to refreshen the skin and sets makeup and Slim-mirrored, rose gold Refillable Compact makes application effortless. For further information please contact Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 or visit margifox.com.au
6
NEW FROM JANE IREDALE LipDrink Lip Balm
Moisturise lips with quenching hydration and SPF 15 sun protection with the jane iredale LipDrink Lip Balm. These amazing lip balms containing wonderful skin-nourishing Carrot Seed and Avocado Oils will ensure that your lips will stay protected, soft, smooth and supple. Available in seven shades including two NEW shades Giddy (sheer pink shimmer) & Pout (sheer fig shimmer).
6
APJ 54
For further information please contact Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 or visit margifox.com.au
CLAIRDERM SKIN TRIO
PROFESSIONAL ONLY SYSTEM
CRYSTAL • DIAMOND • HYDRA MICRODERMABRASION SYSTEM
The latest innovation for non-surgical skin resurfacing, hydration & rejuvenation
Proudly Australian Made
ON SHOW
Stand E110 Sydney BEAUTYexpo
3 Technologies in 1 with No Compromise on Efficacy & Patient So why buy 3 machines when you can buy 1?
Acne Before
Acne After
Scar Before
Scar After
q Medical strength micro & hydrabrasion system q Offers a comprehensive range of skin rejuvenation & resurfacing treatments q Painless & hygienic q Stylish, slimline design- fits anywhere q Advanced non-surgical solution for the treatment of - fine lines & wrinkles, pigmentation - acne, scars, stretch marks q Over 15 years manufacturing expertise q 2 Year Warranty Clairderm Medical Aesthetics • Specialising in Top Quality Medical & Aesthetic Equipment Solutions • Over 25 years experience • Technical support and training
1300 781 239 office@clairderm.com
APJ 55
www.clairderm.com
AROMATHERAPY
THE VIRTUES OF
Cedarwood Essential Oil Eva Boyd
OFTEN WHEN I AM AWAY ON BUSINESS I love staying at one of the beautiful Sofitel Hotels. The chain is owned by the French company AccorHotels and they operate with the highest standards of quality and excellence. Whenever I visit them one of the most delightful things I experience – apart from their amazing cuisine, is their luxurious hand and body lotion that you find in their rest rooms. Rich and creamy, this product exudes relaxation with its lingering and addictive aroma of Cedarwood essential oil. Its sweet, woody and calming aroma has now become one of my very favourites. Who would have thought that wood could smell this good, not to mention the incredible skin and health benefits? Having just completed some further research on cedarwood I would like to profile it in this issue of APJ. ORIGIN AND CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS An evergreen conifer, cedarwood essential oil is extracted from the wood pieces of a cedar tree. There are four species of cedar trees, which are all considered to be timber evergreen conifers belonging to the plant genus known as Cedrus. A popular type of cedarwood essential oil (Juniperus virginiana) comes from the Eastern red cedar, also called pencil cedar. For those familiar with aromatic chemistry, the major chemical components of cedarwood essential oil are alphacedrene, beta-cedrene, cedrol, sesquiterpenes, thujopsene and widdrol — all of which contribute a great deal to its amazing health benefits. So, what is the essential oil cedarwood used for? What are the benefits of cedarwood oil? You’re about to find out! THE TOP BENEFITS AND USE OF CEDARWOOD ESSENTIAL OIL While most of us in our practices are working on the skin, gaining an understanding of how essential oils can also benefit and support the body on so many levels – skin, mind and moods as well as other systemic issues, will allow you to educate your clients, even if you are not providing full body services. However, more and more, consumers are seeking the total skin, body and wellness experience. One way to introduce or expand the wellness element in your salon or clinic is through the introduction of quality essential oils in
APJ 56
various ways. Their expansion is so vast and with the right education and accessing quality therapeutic-grade essential oils, it’s one of the easiest ways to expand into wellness services. Let’s take a closer look at how cedarwood essential oil can provide benefits to you and your clients: •
Improves inflammatory skin conditions such as eczema
•
promotes hair growth
•
soothes dry scalp
•
has natural antiseptic properties
•
arthritis relief
•
it’s a natural sedative
•
a natural diuretic
•
improve focus and ADHD
•
assists in stress relief
•
fights fungal infections
•
beneficial for acne
Let’s look at some of these areas in greater depth: ECZEMA As we are aware eczema is a common inflammatory skin disorder that causes dry, red, itchy skin that can blister or crack. Cedarwood essential oil with its anti-inflammatory properties has been proven beneficial in reducing the unpleasant inflammation and dryness that comes with eczema. HAIR LOSS More and more skin treatments are also extending to the scalp. Cedarwood essential oil offers benefits through its ability to stimulate the hair follicles and increase circulation to the scalp. This contributes to hair growth and may slow hair loss. Herbalists and aromatherapists often recommend cedarwood essential oil for hair loss, thinning hair as well as various types of alopecia. Studies confirm that in terms of hair-growth there is evidence that applying cedarwood oil in combination with thyme, rosemary and lavender to the scalp improves hair growth
in up to 44% of people with hair loss after seven months of treatment. You can take advantage of this benefit, by just adding a few drops of cedarwood oil to your shampoo or conditioner, or just massage the oil into the scalp with a carrier oil like coconut oil and let it sit for 30 minutes before rinsing. DRY SCALP Cedarwood essential oil is often used to improve a dry or flaky scalp due to other skin disorders, such as eczema or psoriasis. Add a few drops to a quality base oil like coconut or almond oil, blend it and massage the sculp for five minutes. For the best results, let it sit on the scalp for 30 minutes or so — then wash it out. If you have shower facilities in business premises you could include this as part of an overall wellness package that includes facial treatment, or body massage. ANTISEPTIC PROPERITES Studies confirm that cedarwood definitely makes the list of essential oils used in dermatology due to its many beneficial effects on the skin, including its antiseptic ability. As a natural antiseptic, cedarwood oil can prevent the development and growth of harmful microorganisms that can negatively affect skin health. Since cedarwood essential oil has antiseptic properties it can be used with a carrier oil topically to disinfect wounds and is also excellent for acne skin conditions. HELPS ARTHRITIS Not just skin information, but also inflammation of the joints and tissues, which are common symptoms of arthritis, can lead to debilitating pain or discomfort. Cedarwood oil is considered one of the best essential oils for arthritis because of its inherent anti-inflammatory properties. In fact, topical pain relievers for joint and muscle pain are known to include cedar essential oil for its therapeutic benefits. By using it externally on the skin, you can reduce inflammation, which can then minimise joint stiffness and discomfort. You can topically apply cedarwood oil with a carrier oil to areas of concern or you can try making yourself a bath with five to 10 drops of cedarwood essential oil. NATURAL DEODORISER Cedarwood essential oil is comforting, reassuring and also possesses a pleasant wood-like aroma, which is very uplifting. It adds a warm tone to any blend of perfumes or oil mixtures. Plus, when it’s used around your workplace or home, it acts as a natural deodoriser to freshen the air. Diffusing cedarwood oil or adding it to a natural essential oil room/body spray can have long-lasting therapeutic effects for you and others. SEDATIVE AND CALMING EFFECT Research confirms the relaxing and soothing properties of cedarwood oil on the nervous system. Studies confirm that cedarwood oil has the ability to deliver a marked sedative effect. It is therefore useful in inducing relaxation and also improving quality of sleep, when applied or diffused. DIURETIC PROPERTIES Cedarwood essential oil’s active compounds, including cedrol, beta-cedrene and thujopsene, are known to have natural diuretic properties. It can support increase in urination and help the body to remove toxins and excess water from the body – a wonderful addition to a body massage and included in cellulite treatments. IMPROVES FOCUS AND ADHD A study performed by Dr. Terry Friedmann M.D. and Dennis Eggett from Brigham Young University found that using cedarwood oil on children could greatly improve their focus and learning capacity. Thirty-four children with ADHD were
given one of three essential oils (cedarwood, vetiver or lavender) to inhale or nothing at all. Children held up a bottle of essential oil to their nostrils and took three deep inhalations three times a day for thirty days. At the end of the study, there were 30 subjects who retook an EEG and T.O.V.A. test. The researchers found that both the vetiver and cedarwood oil groups experienced improvements in brain activity and reduced the ADHD symptoms. Because cedarwood essential oil is a sedative, it has the power to relieve tension and stress that can negatively affect health. Cedarwood oil has a soothing and calming effect on the mind, reduces inflammation and muscle pain. Research published in 2017 demonstrates that the scent of cedarwood essential oil can promote sleep by increasing parasympathetic activity and increasing serotonin production. The therapeutic properties of cedarwood essential oil can really help people struggling with chronic stress and tension. All you have to do is inhale cedarwood essential oil directly from the bottle, or you can also diffuse a few drops of oil. Inhaling it as a concentrate straight from the bottle is effective as due to its small molecular weight the chemical constituents can be transported to the limbic system of the brain within minutes. An animal study published in 2018 focuses on some of cedarwood oil’s active components — cedrol, alpha-cedrene, beta-cedrene, and thujopsene. Overall, the researchers observed that cedarwood essential oil in its entirety and its active constituent cedrol are most likely to have anti-anxiety effects. Another interesting factor is that cedarwood essential oils are sometimes made from waste wood chips — which means that people benefit from recycled and repurposed wood. How neat is that? SIDE EFFECTS Cedarwood essential oil should only be used externally. Although some essential oils can be added to food or ingested orally in minimal amounts, it’s not safe to consume cedarwood essential oil internally. If consumed internally, cedarwood essential oil side effects can include vomiting, nausea, thirst and extensive damage to the digestive system. Women who are pregnant should not use cedarwood essential oil. Talk to your doctor before using this oil if you are nursing, if you have a medical condition or are currently taking medication. If used in high concentrations, cedarwood essential oil can cause skin irritation. Always dilute it with a carrier oil before using it on the skin and avoid the eyes, mucous membranes and sensitive areas. Like all essential oils, keep cedarwood out of the reach of children and pets. Cedarwood essential oil is a very pleasant and extremely versatile oil. Because of its warm properties, it blends well with herbal oils like Clary Sage, woody oils like Cypress, and even other spicy essential oils like Frankincense. Cedarwood also blends well with Bergamot, Cinnamon Bark, Lemon, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Thyme, and Vetiver. As for me, cedarwood will always be considered as one of my favourites, so I prefer it as the dominant note within a formula. APJ
For a list of references, please contact the editor.
APJ 57
AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN
PRICELINE EXPANDS ITS BRANDS TO ACCOMMODATE CONTINUING GROWTH A RECENTLY PUBLISHED report from Roy Morgan confirmed that Priceline Pharmacy has continued to grow their share of the Australian cosmetics market. Now almost 1-in-4 of Australian women (23.3%) who buy cosmetics buy from Priceline, up from 12.8% from four years ago. During this period the number of women buying cosmetics at Priceline has shot up from around 620,000 to over 1.2 million in the year to March 2019.
Fewer women than four years ago are now buying cosmetics at leading department stores such as Myer and David Jones and Discount Department Stores such as Target, Big W and Kmart. Chemist Warehouse has also experienced a small slump in cosmetic customers in 2019, despite previous years of strong growth.
TRENDS TOWARDS NICHE BUYING ENVIRONMENTS Experts who are studying consumer trends are also identifying the rise of the niche buying experience and the trend towards the one-stop-shop. They point out that Priceline also offers a growing market in nutritional supplements and health and hygiene products. As a shopping experience it is not overwhelming as is shopping at many of the larger stores, such as Myer and David Jones and while these stores may be promoting the more prestige brands, they are losing sales to the smaller outlets such as Priceline. So, what do these trends tell us? Here are some thoughts to consider: •
Consumers are drawn to a more intimate buying experience
•
They are looking beyond big brand names and seeking products that are functional and can deliver results
•
They like the fact that they have
Leading retail outlets where Australian women buy their cosmetics Source: Roy Morgan Single Source (Australia), April 2014 – March 2019. Base: Australian women aged 14+ who buy cosmetics in an average six months, n=average of 8,500 female cosmetics buyers per calendar year. The success of Priceline in significantly growing their market share of the cosmetics market has come as Australian women increasingly purchase their health and beauty products online. The report also highlighted these trends earlier this year – Cosmetics and skincare products increasingly bought online – February 22, 2019. In the year to December 2018, 26% (up 8% points in four years) of Australian women buying cosmetics bought health and beauty products online.
APJ 58
Priceline is easily one of the most popular places to source affordable skincare and makeup and the ranges has always been impressive, but a recent announcement confirmed that consumers will now be seeing a little more deluxe on the shelves at their local stores with the introduction of the Napoleon Perdis brand signing a contract to distribute their products to Priceline.
a level of choice, but are not overwhelmed with too much choice •
Wellness is also important to them – they enjoy being able to also pick up their vitamins and wellness supplements
•
The option of benefiting from purchasing incentives and sales
•
The Sisterhood program makes them feel they are part of a community of like-minded women.
This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information
Accessing the popularity of Priceline, new innovative niche brands such as The Ordinary, Whatnot, NGS (NonGender Specific), Alya and Aus Medic Co are now choosing Priceline as their outlet. While the professional salon or clinics space provides products based on a thorough skin consultation, they need to take note of these trends and not neglect their on-line presence. There are so many products that they can still supply their clients, as well as expanding into products that will support the overall wellbeing of consumers. APJ
mainstream market. The personalised moisturiser comes in three textures for specific skin types, with a serum pump featuring five different options to treat skin while hydrating. Consumers will use this straightforward approach as a stepping stone to the technological innovations that deliver exciting new launches in the personalised beauty market. Products and resources that are better able to diagnose skin concerns while outlining treatments utilising artificial technology and scanner data will see an increase in popularity in the coming years.
innovation in the mass facial skincare category as well due to new launches, such as the Neutrogena MaskiD. The product is a 3-D printed face mask that partners with the Neutrogena Skin360 smartphone app to deliver a customised mask with a shape and ingredients unique to each user. In late 2018, the brand partnered with FitSkin to launch the Skin360. Consumers purchase the LED camera on the brand’s website to attach to their phone. The lens zooms in, highlighting pores, fine lines, and moisture levels. Results are recorded and tracked through
Clinique iD
THE RISE OF TECHNOLOGY IN BESPOKE BEAUTY RESEARCH IS CONFIRMING the constant rise in popularity in customised beauty as consumers seek out products targeted to their specific needs. Brands and consumers alike recognise that products should not be one-size-fits-all and this trend is strongly featuring in consumer brands.
The personalised beauty market is particularly on the rise in the skincare and makeup category. In makeup, brands such as Lancôme and Bare Escentuals continue to utilise face scanners to customise foundations for consumers based on skin tone, desired coverage, and skin type. The Lancôme Le Teint Particulier Custom Made Foundation is only available in select stores, as mixing the pigments for a custom foundation is an intensive process. Technology will be key in driving
the Skin360 app by Neutrogena, while product recommendations are also made. Brands and retailers will continue to partner with technology companies as they look to expand into the growing personalised beauty market. Companies such as FitSkin have the research and experience necessary to launch new products that utilize scanners, 3D printers, and other customisable devices. Meanwhile, companies that specialise in artificial intelligence
A recent report Personalised Beauty: U.S. Market Assessment and Opportunities explored this growing market with robust analysis on trends, brands, product categories, and outlook for the next five years. With its recent launch of the Clinique iD, Clinique brings bespoke beauty to the
Lancôme Le Teint Particulier Custom Made Foundation
APJ 59
AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN grow older, the oxygen levels in our skin naturally decline, which contributes to wrinkles and fine lines. But what about when oxygen is applied to the skin, does it really work? In recent times the oxygen facial has made waves, so we explored to see the evidence.
Neutrogena MaskiD and augmented reality become increasingly important to both retailers and direct-selling brands. It will also seek to demonstrate how various factors are converging to satisfy consumer beauty needs. The areas to be covered include personalised fragrances, makeup, skincare and haircare products, subscription services, and innovative technologies such as mobile apps, augmented reality, and virtual reality. Takehome for the Professional Market:
well as how their treatments and products are contributing to positive changes to their skin. The advantage of the clinical approach is that it includes the guidance of a skilled and qualified professional bringing human intelligence to the process. The clinical approach also offers additional benefit through scientifically-sound ingredient education, while the insalon treatments additionally, utilise the power of various technologies to optimise penetration, healing, toning and lifting – something that cannot be achieve through a skincare product alone. APJ
This specialised skin treatment claims to replenish the levels of oxygen in our skin, smoothing out wrinkles and restoring a youthful appearance to the skin and face. It is often known as the celebrity facial because several celebrities tout its amazing benefits and it is popular just before a major event when someone needs to look their best. In fact, it was Madonna who contributed to its popularity. So, what exactly is an oxygen? From an aesthetics point of view, measurable oxygen levels begin dropping in the skin at the age of 25 and extremely low oxygen levels are strong indicators of aged skin. By age 40, 50% of the skins ability to consume and retain oxygen has been impaired. When the skin is deprived of oxygen, blood vessels constrict and it severely compromises the skins ability to function properly. Dry, dull looking skin can add years to appearance and may not respond to its usual skincare or makeup routine. If you’re not getting enough sleep, are undergoing extreme stress, or even experiencing hormonal shifts, the effects can quickly show up on your skin. Toxins from the environment and an unhealthy diet can further compound the effects, making skin look far from healthy.
As consumers become more familiar with mobile apps for the purpose of customisation of their needs, the professional market needs to also take note and look at ways of adopting innovative technology through skin analysers and new software that can provide evidence of their client’s skin condition, as
APJ 60
DO OXYGEN FACIALS REALLY WORK? IT IS A WELL-KNOWN FACT THAT OXYGEN is one of the most essential elements for human life. The oxygen that we inhale from the air around us helps keep our body and skin free from impurities and toxins. But as we
While there is no independent scientific data that confirms how oxygen facials work, their evidence in improving hydration and reviving the skin are well known, so much so that they are also provided in dermatology clinics for their ability to improve the skin. Here are some of the claims as to how oxygen facials can optimise skin health: •
Acts as the ultimate delivery system for taking in vitamins, minerals and nutrients deep into the skin thereby increasing the benefits of topically
This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information
applied skincare solutions Increase and strengthen collagen and elastin fibres in the skin •
Increased skin tone and elasticity Improve blood flow to the skin Increases cell metabolism, thereby increasing production of new cells
•
Increases skin recovery after aggressive treatments Normalises skin to a natural metabolic state Elevates cellular energy and decrease cellular stress Improves overall health of cells and surrounding tissue Reduces redness and inflammation
•
Improve skin hydration and skin texture
Oxygen facial therapy is applied in a multitude of ways, via domes, jets, wands. It is designed to release 9094% pure pressurised oxygen to the skin and while currently there are no independent studies conducted to support any claims there is evidence that these treatments are affective in helping the skin absorb serums and significantly enhance the appearance of the skin. APJ
WHO REGULATED COSMETICS IN AUSTRALIA? THERE SEEMS TO BE A MISCONCEPTION that when it comes to skincare, TGA
is the only body that is involved in regulating skincare. Much of this belief comes from the fact that in the US the FDA, or Federal Drug Administration is the regulating body. However, their rulings do not apply within Australia. In Australia the corresponding bodies when it comes to cosmetic ingredients and skincare products that govern these products is not just one, but three. These are: •
The Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA)
• •
The National Industrial Chemicals Notification and Assessment Scheme (NICNAS)
•
The Australian Competition and Consumer Commission (ACCC)
Below is an except from the TGA’s website that explains Determination that introduced changes to the regulations of cosmetics that were introduced as of the 1st October 2018. If you are interested in importing a skincare product, or wish to manufacture your own brand, it is
essential for you to understand this information. The Cosmetics Standard 2007 “sunsetted” on 1 October 2018.
The content of the Cosmetics Standard has been reproduced in the new Therapeutic Goods (Excluded Goods) Determination 2018 (Determination), a new instrument under the Therapeutic Goods Act 1989, which commenced on 1 October 2018. The Cosmetics Standard ceased to have effect on 1 October 2018, due to "sunset" provisions in the Legislation Act 2003. Legislative instruments generally cease to have effect after around 10 years. Cosmetic products that were previously covered by the Cosmetics Standard will continue to be excluded from the operation of the Therapeutic Goods Act 1989 provided those goods (to the extent that they are therapeutic goods) are exported, imported or supplied in a manner that is consistent with the terms of their exclusion under the Determination. The new Determination is made by the Therapeutic Goods Administration under the Therapeutic Goods Act 1989 and is available on the Federal Register of
Legislation. The new Determination specifies certain goods to be excluded goods for the purposes of that Act. The exclusion may be absolute in nature or only when
APJ 61
AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN used, advertised or presented for supply in a particular manner specified in the Determination. The new Determination reproduces the relevant content of the Cosmetics Standard to maintain the regulatory status quo in relation to these products. To the extent that these products are also therapeutic goods, the TGA will continue to have oversight of those goods which do not meet the terms of their exclusion. Who regulates cosmetics? •
We (NICNAS) will continue to regulate the manufacture
and importation of cosmetic ingredients. •
APJ 62
The Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) is responsible for administering the Therapeutic Goods Act 1989. Goods that meet the terms of their exclusion in the new Determination are not subject to the operation of the Therapeutic Goods Act 1989.
•
•
Product safety and cosmetic labelling standards (under the mandatory standard for ingredient labelling of cosmetics) will continue to be the responsibility of the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission (ACCC). State and Territory Government authorities will continue to regulate the use and disposal of cosmetics.
I wish to manufacture my own cosmetics, or import a brand, what’s changed? Obligations around cosmetic ingredients and cosmetic products are essentially the same as before.
But the Cosmetics Standard is not in force after 1 October 2018. Instead you must refer to the TGA's new Determination to understand the circumstances in which your product will not be made subject to regulation under the Therapeutic Goods Act 1989. These circumstances include ensuring the products meet requirements and standards for cosmetic products previously included
in the Cosmetics Standard. In Australia, these three bodies establish the regulatory requirements when it comes to cosmetics. In Short, NICNAS regulatiions apply to ingredients in a product, TGA regulations apply if any therapeutic claims are being made about their effect and use and the ACCC covers the rules for ingredient labelling. APJ If you are interested in importing a product or manufacturing your own brand and would like assistance with regulatory issues APAN recommends Dr Derrick Beech, Medical Technology Consulting 02 9552 2229 or 0438 071163.
BREAST IMPLANT REMOVAL ON THE RISE WHILE THE SPOTLIGHT in plastic surgery is firmly on inserting breast implants, there are an increasing number of women that are requesting their implants to be removed, according to Sydney Plastic Surgeon Dr Gavin Sandercoe.
This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information
Neck and shoulder pain, headaches and pain radiating down arms are all common physical symptoms that are reasons that women request their implants to be removed. These symptoms are common in women that have chosen implants that are too heavy for their bodies. Like all things in medicine, variations in our genetics determine what the maximum load that a woman can take on her neck, back and shoulders. For some women like this, downsizing and tightening the skin (breast lift) can be an appropriate choice. Others wish for their implants to be removed, and assess what their breasts look like before committing to additional reshaping surgery. For the right patient, fat transfer to the breast can be an appropriate option for helping to reshape and volumise the breast. There is also a group of women that have systemic disease that they believe is either due to, or compounded by, their breast implants. There are multiple websites on the Internet that encourage these women to consider removal of their implants (with the capsules) in the hope that their symptoms will improve. Several reports, both from plastic surgeons in Australia and the US are stating that the number of women who are requesting the removal of their breast implants are constantly on the rise due to the adverse effects they are experiencing with them. Although ‘breast implant illness’ is not recognised officially by doctors or the FDA, there is a global movement of sufferers worldwide that share a wide range of symptoms including headaches, rashes, fevers, fatigue, fogginess and joint pain. There are also countless cases of women whose symptoms vanished almost immediately after having their implants removed. This coupled with global updates to manufacturer regulations around textured implants, including urgent TGA meetings in Australia and total bans across Canada and France, the spike in implant removal comes as no surprise to many.
In Australia the TGA has issued a formal request to manufacturers, requesting data on the implant supply in Australia, as well as physical samples, giving them just 10 working days to respond to these requests. Is there Medicare provision for breast implant removal? From 1st November 2018, there have been some changes made to the MBS with regards to breast implant surgery. The most significant would be for those who are having breast implant revisions. Previously, breast implant replacements were rebatable with Medicare and private health funds if there is a clinical indication to do so, however, this has since been changed that not all patients will be covered for replacement as per criteria below: TN.8.98 Breast Prosthesis, Removal and Replacement of - (Items 45553 and 45554) It is generally expected that the replacement prosthesis will be the same size as the prosthesis that is removed. Medicare benefits are not payable for services under items 45553-45554 where the procedure is performed solely to increase breast size. Where the original implant was not inserted in the context of breast cancer or developmental abnormality, intra-operative photographs need to demonstrate significant evidence of substantial skin laxity to justify replacement of the prosthesis. In the context of eligibility for item 45553 and 45554, an unacceptable deformity would not include asymmetry caused as a result of implant removal. Where a rupture has been established through imaging and reported, items 45553 and 45554 will still apply even if intra-operatively the implant is found to be structurally intact.
for the service as this may be subject to audit. Further to recent discussions with representatives on the Medicare Review Panel, the majority of patients who have had breast implants for cosmetic reasons (breast augmentation) will not meet the criteria for replacement. Unacceptable deformity is defined to be a concavity in the chest contour (after implant removal) with significant skin excess. There was also specification that one cannot claim removal of breast implants (item number 45551) if an implant is being replaced. This means, that the procedure is only covered, if no implant is being replaced. If a procedure does not meet the criteria for a Medicare item number, it will also not be covered by the private health fund. This means that the cost for removal and replacement of breast implants will include: hospital fees (theatre fee and hospital stay), cost of implants, surgeon's fee and anaesthetic fee. None of the above costs will attract rebate from either Medicare or private health funds. This change will not affect those who have breast implants for: 1. Post breast cancer reconstruction 2. Congenital breast defects, such as asymmetry or tuberous breasts Implants inserted for the above purposes will still be covered for replacement if there is a clinical indication. To find out whether you are eligible for rebate, Medicare recommend contacting your plastic surgeon for a formal consultation. APJ
Full clinical details must be documented in patient notes, including pre-operative photographic and/or diagnostic imaging evidence demonstrating the clinical need
APJ 63
AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN
THE POWER OF SKINCARE – FOCUS ON FLAWLESS DR. DES FERNANDES, WORLDRENOWNED plastic surgeon and founder of Environ Skin Care once again visited Australia to present the latest updates in skincare technology. A full day of education was enjoyed by stockists in two cities – Brisbane and Melbourne as they joined the Margifox Distributors’ team for an opportunity to meet Dr Fernandes first-hand and learn from his incredible knowledge on the latest advances in ingredient science. Dr Des, who has spent the last 30 years researching skin, created the first skincare range to include vitamin A in high enough doses to counteract the harmful effects of the environment. “Vitamin A became my passion from around about 1982 and I had been working with it since ’76, primarily for scars, however, I ultimately found that
APJ 64
Vitamin A is also effective for treating an array of other skin conditions,” he said.
With Environ, we are now able to do that,” he confirmed.
“Our challenge was to determine how to include high enough doses of vitamin A in our skincare products so that we are able to treat the deficiency, which then allows us to target the individual skin concern.
At these events, Dr Des discussed the latest Environ innovations - the newly released Focus Care Radiance+ and Clarity+ ranges. These ranges were designed to target and treat stubborn
This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information
skin conditions, such as pigmentation and acne. He also discussed how to effectively incorporate the revolutionary Electro Sonic DF Mobile Device into clients’ skincare regimes to maximise the benefits of Environ homecare products. Guests were treated to a beautiful two-course lunch and had the opportunity to meet Dr Des up close and personal. The first event was kicked off on Sunday 16th June in Brisbane at the Howard Smith Wharves precinct. While the next stop was in Melbourne at the beautifully
appointed Langham Hotel on Monday 17th June. To wrap up Dr Des’s whirlwind tour, Margifox Distributors hosted an intimate social media influencer event on Tuesday 18th June to introduce new consumers to the journey of Beautiful Skin for a Lifetime with Environ Skincare. APJ For further information on Environ Skincare please contact Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008.
APJ 65
COSMETICTATTOO
20 CONSIDERATIONS BEFORE CHOOSING A COSMETIC TATTOO ARTIST Katherine McCann WHEN DEALING WITH an artistic outcome often many factors come into consideration. There are lot of misconceptions and miscommunications out there. Insurance companies are inundated with claims and potential claims of disgruntle consumers who felt that their cosmetic tattooing procedure did not meet with their expectations. As we are aware, eyebrow microblading is one of the most in-demand procedures and without current regulatory restrictions regarding training, the market is flooded with poorly or inadequately trained practitioners. To help demystify some of the confusion, I have put together a Consumer Guide to help potential clients gain some insight into what is involved with Cosmetic Tattooing, regardless of the procedure they are having, as well as important considerations when selecting their practitioner of choice. Here is my 20 Considerations Before Choosing a Cosmetic Tattoo Artist. I am happy to give permission to business owners to use this information below as a resource document for your own business. TURN YOUR CHOICE INTO AN INFORMED DECISION Confused on what to expect and who to trust to perform your cosmetic tattooing procedure? Here are 20 considerations that will help you make an informed choice:
1. Choose an artist whose work you LOVE – because this is what you will ultimately receive. Unlike hairdressers, you can’t just bring in a photo and get an artist to replicate a look. Think picture drawing. 2. Don’t be fooled by the BUZZ words, huge social medial numbers or fancy marketing, these do not necessarily constitute “experience” or the fact YOU will receive a great outcome. Personal referrals are always a good indicator and trust your gut instinct. 3. Feathering, hair-stokes, combination, hybrid, powder, smoky etc, these are all TATTOOING TECHNIQUES – this is the type/style one will choose to use to create
APJ 66
your cosmetic tattooing. 4. Both microblading and machines are MODALITIES (what you use to tattoo). 5. Microblading is a manual hand tool that has a tiny configuration of needles attached to the end and a tattoo machine, or device is powered electronically. Both modalities require proper training and a great deal of practice to master before working on any skin! 6. Machine work operates by needle punctures into the skin multiple times per second and the type of hair strokes, shading and level of colour saturation in the skin is determined by how fast or slow the artist’s hand moves, whereas a Microblade slices through the skin to create a hair stroke, or shading in which pigment is then embedded and masked. 7. Fact: Microblading is ONLY suitable for about 20% of the population and if used on people with large pores, skin that’s either oily, thickened or thin, as well as sun-damaged or wrinkled, the healing results may not retain the pigment, last adequately, or heal with optimal colour retention, or saturation. (Don’t get me wrong, there are some stunning microblading results and artists out there, but keep in mind you need to be a good-skin candidate). 8. Research your artist – what are their qualifications, do they belong to any reputable industry Association or industry bodies? Are their qualifications recognised and AUSTRALIAN Standards Approved? (Note that different countries have varying standards, as do their hygiene and infection control standards. 9. Fact: At this stage Australia only has one unit of competency for nationally accredited training in cosmetic tattooing. This is an elective from the nationally-approved Beauty Therapy Diploma. This is the only official accredited pertaining to Cosmetic Tattooing and it requires the completion of an Infection Control unit as a prerequisite. a. When seeking for validated credentials if your practitioner holds CTARP registration, this is also
evidence that the practitioner’s credentials have been externally validated by an independent industry body. CTARP stands for Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner. This recognition/ registration is given by the national industry standards body the AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK. CTARP practitioners are also required to maintain their currency-of-knowledge by adhering to the requirements of a CPD points system. This can be achieved through postgraduate courses, or training available in order to retain the practitioner’s currency. b. It’s good to check if your artists invest in continued professional development and on-going training, as cosmetic tattooing is a very in-depth specialised area of work with many new advances. 10. Portfolios, videos and photos: Does your artist have a solid portfolio of work available? a. Is the work they are posting their own (stock photos don’t count, nor does posting another artist’s work as your own? This is a huge problem). Are their photos of real clients and is the work they are posting current – not from 12 years ago. b. Remember, your artist is only as good as their last work they have done and posted. They have to continually practice and update their techniques.
11. Make sure you judge a good cosmetic tattoo on the artist’s HEALED results – this is important because you can then see how the colour has settled, whether it is matched properly as well as how the saturation levels in the skin look. Also, whether the strokes or shading have healed consistently. a. Look for an optimal and evenly-healed tattoo – it should reflect a natural makeup look (not blotchy or grey). If you are seeing this, it often means the skin could have been overworked during the procedure, or that the pigment was tattooed too deeply or pressure was uneven. b. Also make sure their healed results are consistently good – you want to be sure they didn’t just post a photo showing a good angle, or light. Watch for filters and low resolution images, you want high definition to see all the details.
12. Remember, you are basically buying a person’s individual skill, so think of it like art and decide what you prefer. For example, some people love water colour paintings, whereas others prefer the stronger colours of acrylics. Make your decision based on what your artist can deliver – this is so important. 13. Does your artist perform all cosmetic procedures and are they machine-trained? For example, do they offer eyeliner, eyebrows and lip tattooing, or only brow microblading? a. This is important because if they only microblade eyebrows, is the advice they are providing you about your brows based on delivery of this service only and if so, is that service right for you? b. Keep in mind that realistically, a person can only sell what they do, so consider this.
14. Confidence: Is your artist confident? Sounds silly, but seriously, your experience and results can vary greatly
if you put yourself in inexperienced hands. 15. Cost should never be your sole determining factor, remember, a good reputable artist’s price is not based on your budget. a. You only get one shot with tattooing virgin skin, rest assured that 90% of the time any mistakes or botchups will be sure to never fade – keep this in mind.
16. Do your due diligence: It is so important to understand exactly what you’ve asked for, as interpretation of terms can vary significantly from person-to-person. It is therefore important to ensure that both parties agree on expectations and one does not end up with buyer’s remorse because they did not get what they thought they were getting. 17. Colour corrections, as well as multiple levels of removal or fading, require additional post-graduate training and vary significantly from individual-toindividual. In the event that a colour correction is required for any of the above procedures mentioned, please note that these are considered advanced procedures and should only be performed by an experienced artist. a. Also note that all corrective work should be classified as exploratory because the end results can only be predicted, not guaranteed.
18. After your initial tattooing and touch-up appointments, you should not be tattooing the same area more than once within a 12-month period, otherwise you run the risk of overworking the skin, or even developing hypertrophic scarring, or oversaturation of colour of the area. 19. A good fit works both ways. It is always a good idea to attend a consultation – take the time to actually meet your artist, check out their premises, note their infection control qualifications and Council Permit licenses. a. Ask lots of questions and be prepared for the artist to ask you lots of questions too. A good artist will ensure you are medically-sound in their knowledge and that they can provide you with the right advice based on your face, skin, lifestyle and what you’ve ultimately wanted to achieve.
20. Finally, a good artist will give you sound advice and on-going support throughout the whole process – from the time you contact them, during the procedure, post-procedure and into the future. They will invest in a long-term, on-going business relationship with you now and into the future. The aim of an ethical artist should be to have a genuine interest in you, not just to meet targets and take your money. APJ Katherine McCann is an award-winning accredited cosmetic tattooist, clinic owner and qualified beauty profession based on the Gold Coast. She is a tertiary postgraduate with a strong background in Human Resource Management training and strategic business development and has taught at both vocational and university level. She holds an Advisory role with the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN), Katherine is an active industry contributor and passionate about regulations and standards. She is the journalist for the Australian Association of Cosmetic Tattooing, the Editor of the national Aesthetics Practitioners Journal – APJ and has a keen interest in micropigmentation and trauma resolution.
APJ 67
SKINSCIENCE
EFFECTIVE INGREDIENTS AGAINST WINTER DEHYDRATION Dr Zac Turner WITH THE WINTER months upon us sebaceous secretion that lubricates the skin is not at its peak. This, together with internal heating, dry cold winds can create havoc to the skin contributing to dryness and dehydration. In this article Dr Zac Turner, presents of few validated ingredients to look for in your skincare that have proven efficacy against dehydration. As winter is well and truly upon us throughout Australia the colder temperatures and drier air can be detrimental to the skin. As we know, the outermost layer of the skin, the epidermis, is the human body’s first point of contact to this seasonal change. The colder temperatures and lower humidity can make this layer of skin irritated and inflamed becoming red, flaky, itchy, and ashy. Here are just a few scientific suggestions to keep in mind as you update your skincare regimen to combat this winter season. Keeping the skin well hydrated is the key to healthy skin and moisturisers are possibly the more used therapeutics agents by dermatologists as well as skin therapists to ensure appropriate skin management and pre-mature ageing. When selecting an appropriate skincare product that will provide adequate protection against dehydration during the winter months, it pays to know which ingredients are supported by research. Here are just a few key ingredients to look out for to help you optimize that skin healthy glow.
1. HUMECTANTS These are hydroscopic compounds that pull water from two sources, from the dermis into the epidermis and from the air, which makes them excellent compounds in aiding the skin to retain moisture. Most humectants have a low molecular weight – a good property to have when trying to penetrate a phospholipid bilayer. The best humectants to look for on an ingredients list are: glycerols (the trihydroxylated molecule of glycerol is the most effective), hyaluronic acid, panthenol (Vit B-5), aloe vera, honey, propylene glycol, panthenol, sorbitol,
APJ 68
and alpha hydroxyl acids (glycolic and lactic acids) are all excellent choices.
2. EMOLLIENTS Emollients are saturated and unsaturated hydrocarbons (lipids and hydrocarbons) but differ from occlusive in that they improve the skin softness, flexibility and smoothness by filling in gaps between skin cells. They contribute to the rehydration of the skin, however, are not as notably effective in the treatment of chronic dry skin when used alone. Emollients include cholesterol, squalene, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and pseudoceramides.
3. OCCLUSIVES Occlusives are oils or waxes, similar to emollients but differ in that they form a layer on the epidermis, physically blocking transepidermal water loss by creating a hydrophobic barrier. Oils are noted in their efficiency to diffuse into the intercellular matrix. Oils to look out for on an ingredients list are any hydrocarbons e.g. petrolatum, parrafin, mineral oil, and zinc oxide. Waxes can give products longer shelf life, which include vegetable waxes such as carnauba and candelilla, and wax esters such as beeswax, lanolin, and stearyl stearate. Occulsives should be the ‘go-to’ ingredients for those who have very dry skin, however, they are not appropriate for oily or acne-prone skin conditions as they are considered comedogenic therefore contribute to clogged pores and this is not what you want. The ingredients listed above should be used appropriately when choosing products to help combat seasonal dryness. For those that suffer from sever dry skin during the winter months a product containing more occulsives may be better suited to your needs. However, when sorting through those endless options find one that contains multiple ingredients from both categories to keep a healthy glow. APJ
APAN stands for High Standards and Best Practice
BE RECOGNISED AS THE BEST
Here is why smart business owners turn to APAN for advice: “In all my years in the industry I have never experienced a professional body that is so knowledgeable, easy to access and provides me with expert advice and solutions to some of my most challenging problems in my business. APAN has saved me thousands of dollars in legal fees and I have been able to source a wide range of quality documents to ensure my business is run efficiently and is fully-compliant with regulations. I now have peace of mind when dealing with staffing issues, client complaints and identifying ways of staying one-step-ahead of my competition. Their advice is professional, comprehensive, accurate and extensive. The APAN ARAP and CTARP registrations further validate our staffs’ credentials and gives us a point-of-difference. We pride ourselves on our qualifications and commitment to best practice. When an external industry standards body can validate this, it gives our clients confidence that their needs are in the best hands. APAN is recognised as the peak body that fights for us at all levels, including the difficult task of regulations. Membership fees are affordable. They provide me with the best investment for my business.” Jane Bishop, WA.
MEMBERSHIP HAS A VARIETY OF CLASSIFICATIONS FOR BUSINESSES AND PRACTITIONERS A Specialists Trademarked Registration Program offers additional recognition. These categories are subject to evidence of qualifications: •
APAN Registered Aesthetics Practitioner (ARAP)
•
Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CTAP)
Why you should become an APAN Member? EXPERT SUPPORT | REGULATIONS COMPLIANCE | REGULATORY REPRESENTATION | CONFERENCES AND WORKSHOPS | APJ JOURNAL | INSURANCE PROTECTION | BUSINESS SUPPORT
Make recognition of your professionalism your competitive advantage. Join today.
AT IC T TOO ET
PRACTIT I
ER ON
APA N
ARAP
R AN EGIST AP
C NER OSM IO
AESTHET I
PRACT ED IT ER
D
CS
REGISTERE
Contact APAN for further details: 07 5593 0360 | info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com
CTARP APJ 69
MEMBERPROFILE
Achieving transformational outcomes An Inteview with Michael Moriarty
APAN HAS MEMBERSHIP classifications for a variety of industry professional, all of which are amazing and highly committed individuals and it is our privilege in each issue of APJ to profile different ones and allow them to share their story. While some are boisterous and want to take on the world, others are quiet achievers, changing lives, one client or patient at-a-time. However, when digging deeper into their lives we often uncover common attributes that define most of them – they are usually passionately dedicated and committed to their profession and they really love what they do. But the real force that drives them to achieve exceptional outcomes is always their amazing gift of mercy and their strong sense of compassion for those who are under their care. It is the force of their compassion that drives them to seek and find the very best possible outcomes. Today, we chose to interview Michael Moriarty – he and his wife Ellen are both registered nurses and owners of Top-end Liposonics, a clinic located at Berry Springs in the Northern Territory. Michael’s incredible story is not just one of survival, but also of a brilliant clinician who has moved beyond traditional strategies in his profession. Researching his field extensively, he discovered new innovative ways of using and combining technologies in such a way that he has achieve amazing breakthroughs in body shaping, weight-loss and scar revision. These achievements have carved him a reputation as a leading clinician in the region. Here is his story: APJ Q1: Michael please share with us a little about your background and how you got involved in this industry? I was originally from Ohio, USA. When I arrived in Australia, I met this amazing nurse called Ellen and just after three dates, I made up my mind that I wanted to marry her. I proposed and she accepted and we have now been married for 49 years. At the time we were living in NSW, but through the years we have travelled throughout several states. Our adventures took us to Queensland, where we lived at one time in Brisbane, then Gympie and eventually landed in Townsville. While there, I considered my career options and I
APJ 70
decided that I wanted to become a nurse. Ellen was hospitaltrained as a nurse, as was common in those days, but did not have a degree. By the time I decided to study nursing at James Cook University in Townsville our daughter decided to also join, Ellen wanted to upgrade her qualifications so the three of us completed our degrees at the same time. We were the first three family members to study and graduate together at James Cook University at the same time. My career as a nurse commences working in nursing homes and I also worked short periods of time in hospitals, as well as in emergency child care. We worked in remote areas where often there was no doctor, so we were required to undertake whatever problem came up. We loved the flexibility of taking on the unexpected and being able to be of benefit to others. One day, an interesting ad in the newspaper caught my attention. It was something very different - cattle cleaning at a Northern Territory large property. We accepted the position and decided to explore the Northern Territory including Katherine. Eventually, we came to Darwin where I was working in a nursing home. Unfortunately, in 2014 I was diagnosed with cancer. It was quite aggressive and I underwent 39 doses of radiotherapy in 39 days. While this managed to kill the cancer, it caused scar tissue in my bladder and complications meant that I had to seek a new career path. One evening, we were watching Dr Oz on TV where he talked about a new technology that was able to break down body fat in a painless and non-invasive procedure using ultrasound. I felt this was something I could do, so my journey in exploring this option began. I eventually, discovered these devices at Cosmoprof in Hong Kong and my journey in body shaping and fat cavitation began. I immersed myself in gaining as much knowledge about the technique. As a father with three sons and a daughter I used them as my practice models in order to perfect my technique. Since then this technology has advanced so much, providing us with so many options and capabilities that did not exist back in 2015. Today, there are so many fat cavitation devices and I no longer use the original device that I purchased as it has now been superseded with new, more sophisticated options with superior capabilities.
APJ Q2: What areas do you specialise in and what are some of the results you are achieving? We can deliver incredible results with body sculpting, fat loss, and not just for the body, we can achieve amazing results for face and neck shaping and skin tightening. The other area that we are getting excellent results is with scar tissue recovery, often after those caused by operations. For example, caesarean scars can be quite ugly. When the scar has adhered to the underlying tissue it can create a dent. We have developed an incredible technique where we are able to lift and release the scar in just a few minutes. The procedure is noninvasive and painless and the results are unbelievable. It is such a thrill to achieve such results. Our body sculpting results are also very impressive and our procedures also help with fat reduction. We guide our client through their weight loss process with simple diets as well and provide them with lots of education. We have perfected our techniques and protocols and we can guarantee them that they will experience results in just two hours. All weight-loss clients are also required at the end of each treatment to finish with a 20-minutes session on our vibration plate. This is because once fat is mobilised, we need to accelerate its removal through the lymphatic system for elimination. Our clients are varied. We also have many models and singers who need to be in top condition and want to achieve guaranteed results and they know that we can help them achieve the results they are looking for. APJ Q3: What technologies and techniques do you use to achieve these results? There is not just one technology that can do everything. We use a variety of equipment and technologies, from different ultrasonic cavitation devices as well as HIFU that combines high frequency and ultrasound, LED light, radio-frequency and Thermage. We treat the whole body including the face. We use individual machines as well as multi-platform devices. Different devices offer different benefits. For example, if you require skin tightening the tripolar radiofrequency offers great results, on the other hand if you are looking at breaking up fat the bipolar is excellent. While treating the body we often offer a free facial treatment using LED. Everyone can feel the difference to their face in just 20 minutes. Grossly overweight individuals need to be assessed and treated differently, depending on where the fat is located. Some sculpturing requires more ultrasound treatments, however, as the tissues start to become loose, then RF is effective. When working on the neck the Thermage offers great tightening. Every case is different and knowing the capabilities of each device and determining the client’s need allows us to effectively combine strategies and accelerate the results we are looking for. APJ Q4: Are you prepared to share your knowledge with other practitioners and who would be a good candidate to train with you? Yes, we love to teach our techniques and protocols to other practitioners. As our procedures are non-invasive
and painless, you don’t need to be a nurse to deliver these treatments. There are no incisions that would require infection control measures. At all times the skin remains in-tact. However, as you are working on the body you need a background in anatomy and physiology and you also need a good dose of compassion, as some of the individual you may be dealing with may be suffering from low self-confidence. However, these services are very rewarding and sometimes you may even be considered as a “miracle worker” – the body shaping results you can achieve are amazing, scar tissue revision, such as after mastectomy are just some examples. You will find that many people feel shamed because of their deformity and the changes people will experience with these services are so rewarding. You will be able to achieve incredible changes and improve self-confidence, sometimes in just a few minutes. We have worked extensively not just on protocols, but also in monitoring and supervising the design of the devices. We can therefore provide the equipment needed at a fraction of the cost that you may pay elsewhere and the results are guaranteed. We love to share our knowledge and we often train others in their own facilities and help them work on their own people. Many of the procedures must be delivered progressively, allowing the body to adjust to the changes and be given the time to release the toxins that have been broken down, such as with the abdominal area. The body must be given the time to eliminate the toxins, this much be achieved in stages, so your clients will often have to come to you over several visits to achieve the full outcome. We therefore welcome the opportunity to train practitioners in their own environment. Once we have trained you, we are always available for support. We also plan to set up a closed Facebook group so that practitioners can share their knowledge and experiences. We want these strategies to also benefit others.
APJ 71
of a car accident when one leg was broken and it took a long time to repair. As a result, she used her good leg a great deal more so it became very strong while the injured leg atrophied and became smaller. She eventually fell pregnant and had a baby and one day when she was carrying her baby she fell while holding it. In an attempt to protect the baby, she once again leaned on her good leg and broke her other weak leg once again. This was a real challenge for us, however, using various technologies and techniques we manage to change the shape of her legs so they were eventually both the same size. Imagine her joy when she could finally wear lovely dresses without feeling embarrassed. This really changed her life. Another case involved a lady who had gone overseas for a face lift and was left with botched up results from surgery that had gone wrong. She was left with scars on her face, some of them so deep that you could put your finger into them. With this case we were able to release some of these deep indentations is just 15 minutes. The change was quick and quite phenomenal. With these protocols you can literally transform lives. It is so rewarding. There is no risk of transmission of bacteria as none of the procedures require breaking the skin. APJ Q5: Can you share with us a success story that you have experienced that has given you the motivation to continue along this path? There are so many stories that I could mention. However, there are two that I would like to share here. One lady came to see us because she had one leg bigger than the other. It was so noticeable that she refused to wear dresses, only loose pants so her legs could not be seen. This was a result
We can teach you the most effective way to combine technologies. With the LED mask you can achieve such remarkable results and we have discovered ways to help asthma, heat rash and even improving memory. Every salon and clinic should have an LED mask – it is such a useful and versatile technology. APJ Michael Moriarty can be contacted at TOP-END LIPOSONIC Ph: 0412 194 909.
Make Qualifications your COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE COSMETIC TATTOOING is a highly profitable and in-demand procedure. However, there will always be those who take advantage of the opportunities to bring to disrepute the reputation of the profession through poorly delivered procedures due to a lack of qualifications and quality training.
3 MODELS A DAY PROVIDED
If you wish to enter this industry, gaining nationally-recognised qualifications will elevate your status and secure your future in this modality. If you are already a trained cosmetic tattooist why not
gain Recognition of Prior Learning and upgrade your training to the nationallyapproved SHBBSKS003 DESIGN AND PROVIDE COSMETIC TATTOOING? JANETTE ZAKOS is a qualified cosmetic tattooist and trainer with a nursing and beauty therapy background. With over 27 years’ experience and 12 years’ teaching experience she is renowned for skills and knowledge. Training and Assessment with Janette is only on a oneon-one basis. Why not also benefit from her amazing knowledge and techniques?
ALSO AVAILABLE: • 2-Day Microblading Course • 3-Day Ombre brows • 1-Day refresher course • Full-time courses available • Payment plans APJ 72
FOR MORE INFORMATION PLEASE CONTACT JANETTE ZAKOS TODAY 0414 389 603 | janettezakos@gmail.com | www.janettezakos.com
GAIN NATIONAL RECOGNITION FOR YOUR COSMETIC TATTOO QUALIFICATION Paving the way for national standards-recognition for qualified Cosmetic Tattooists APAN has established CTARP - a national registration process that allows qualified Cosmetic Tattoo practitioners to gain national recognition, differentiating them from unqualified technicians. CTARP REGISTRATION CTARP - Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner is Australia’s leading recognition symbol for best practice in Cosmetic Tattooing. CTARP PREREQUISITE REQUIREMENTS • Must provide evidence of a nationallyapproved qualification • Must provide evidence of SHBBINF001 Maintain Infection Control.
Be recognised as the best For further details visit apanetwork.com/ctarp
07 5593 0360| info@apanetwork.com| www.apanetwork.com
APJ 73
NUTRITION
SEA BUCKTHORN BERRY
for skin renewal and internal health Tina Viney
IN EVERY ISSUE OF APJ we aim to profile a special plant or nutrient highlighting any new research information and in particular, any benefits it may offer for skin health and inner wellness. In his article Stress, Telomeres and Botanical Medicine as presented in this journal, Dr Daniel Weber makes mention of sea buckthorn berry. We therefore decided to profile as our nutrient of choice for this issue, this relatively newcomer to the skincare industry.
An international natural bath and beauty chain adds the plant's oil to its sunscreen products as both a sunblock and as a tan-enhancer. In Europe we are also seeing this ingredient appearing in anti-wrinkle creams that attribute its benefits due to its high vitamin and anti-oxidant properties and particularly to the high levels of betacarotene present in the oil.
Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae Rhamnoides) is a source of herbal medicine, vitamins and nutrients well recognised around the world. It is used as an active ingredient in anti-ageing and medicinal skin care products, dietary supplements and health foods for its nourishing, revitalising, and restorative action.
properties of oil derived from their berries, have been developed and are currently grown and harvested in the beautiful Altai Mountains of Russian Siberia, which boasts to have the highest quality. The unique features of the plant, especially its combination of high environmental value with nutritional and medical applications, have contributed to the substantial interest and recognition it has received internationally from researchers and medical practitioners.
One of the main sea buckthorn products – sea buckthorn oil is traditionally utilised to promote the healing of skin injuries, such as burns, sores, wounds, eczema and help improve conditions of mucous membranes, including ulcers, lesions and tissue erosion. Due to the high content of nutrients essential for the metabolism of skin cells, sea buckthorn oil is applied to combat dry skin, wrinkles, and other symptoms of malnourished or prematurely ageing skin. It is also taken internally to improve the conditions of the mucous membranes of gastro-intestinal tract and as a natural dietary supplement.
HISTORICAL REFERENCES, USES AND MEDICINAL PROPERTIES Sea buckthorn shrub has yellow to orange 6 to 8 mm berries, which remain on the shrubs throughout the winter. The plant reaches approximately 2 to 5 metres in height. The leaves are alternate and narrow and silver-grey in colour. When in blossom, small, yellow flowers appear in spring. Both male and female sea buckthorn plants are needed for fruit production. The plant is used for land reclamation and to prevent soil erosion because of its extensive root system and its ability to fix nitrogen and other nutrients.
Sea Buckthorn is known by different names in various countries. In Russia it is known as Seaberry, Siberian pineapple, or Alpine Sandthorn and is a naturally occurring shrub that is found in very large territories in Europe and Asia. Most scientists think that it originates from the Himalayan Mountains, where its natural hardiness and vigour allow it to thrive on solid rock formations around crystal-clear rivers fed from ancient glaciers, at elevations as high as 14,000 feet. According to the information provided by the International Research and Training Centre on Sea Buckthorn (ICRTS), its natural distribution area includes China, Mongolia, India, Nepal, Pakistan, Russia, Ukraine, Great Britain, France, Denmark, Netherlands, Germany, Poland, Finland, Sweden and Norway. The cultivated, super-high-vitamin varieties of Sea Buckthorn, famous for the healing and health-promoting
The berries are used to make juice, but also the bark and leaves are used for the production of pharmaceuticals or to make sea buckthorn tea. Sea buckthorn oils is extracted from the fruit and seeds and used in both skincare and for internal use due to its nutritional benefits.
APJ 74
The virtues of sea buckthorn have been documented for centuries in ancient pharmacology records in China, Russia and Europe as one of nature’s most incredible medicinal plants. Its small, bright orange berries have been cherished for their truly incredible healing, nutritive, and therapeutic qualities. The richly coloured oil produced from Sea Buckthorn berries is so abundant in vitamins, antioxidants, and other healing compounds that many believe that sea buckthorn must have been created by some ancient plant-
breeder. Sea buckthorn berries have no match in the plant kingdom for their content of carotenoids (pro-vitamin A), tocopherols (vitamin E), phylloquinone (vitamin K), as well as other vitally important healing and health-promoting vitamins, fatty acids, and micro-elements. Sibu Yidian, the classic Tibetan medical book written in the eighth century AD - devotes thirty chapters to the amazing medicinal and nutritional uses of Sea Buckthorn. Sibu Yidian places great emphasis on the ability of Sea Buckthorn “to tonify Yin and strengthen Yang.” Historically, other cultures have also found healing, health and balance from Sea Buckthorn. In India, it is an important part of traditional Ayurveda. It is absolutely essential in the Chinese Pharmacopeia. In Mongolia, it has long been seen as a source for indefatigable life energy - which is why, it is said, Genghis Khan and his armies drank the juice of the sea buckthorn berry to increase stamina and speed up the healing of wounds. In Russia, clinical tests on its medicinal uses were first initiated in the 1950s and sea buckthorn was formally listed in the Pharmacopoeia in 1977. The most important pharmacological functions attributed to sea buckthorn oil are anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, analgesic, and regenerative. Based both on many its traditional use, modern scientific research and clinical studies, sea buckthorn oil has been proven to be an amazingly effective natural remedy for all health problems related to damaged mucous membranes of the gastrointestinal tract, including the following widespread conditions: •
Mouth ulcers (also called aphthae, or canker sores)
•
Sore throat and strep throat
•
Esophagitis (inflammation of the esophagus) and Barrett’s esophagus
•
Acid reflux (GERD)
•
Treatment-resistant peptic ulcers and chronic erosive gastritis
•
Ulcerative colitis (inflammation and ulceration of colon mucosa)
•
Crohn’s disease
•
Diverticulosis and diverticulitis
The unique therapeutic properties of this oil are explained by its almost unbelievable abundance in health-promoting bioactive components. A more comprehensive analysis confirmed that the ripe berries contain more than 190 varieties of bioactive substances, of which 106 occur in the berry oil. This number includes six different fat-soluble vitamins and vitamin-like substances, 22 fatty acids, 42 kinds of lipids and 36 kinds of flavonoids and phenols. So far, the pharmacological license for sea buckthorn oil has been renewed five times since the first time it was approved as a drug for production and utilisation by the Ministry of Public Health of the former USSR. WOUND HEALING However, the most note worthy studies that confirm the therapeutic properties of sea buckthorn is the improvement it offers to wound healing. Topical treatment of wounds with extracts or oil from sea buckthorn relieves pain and accelerates wound healing. When taken internally, animal studies showed that sea buckthorn stimulates the healing of gastric ulcers.
USE IN SKINCARE Herbalists have used sea buckthorn berry for its therapeutic benefits for centuries, and as modern research brings to light its virtues, we are seeing a constant increase of skincare companies incorporating this nutrient into their formulations. In particular, several well-established "Natural Cosmetics" companies are including sea buckthorn berry in their skincare products, as a search of the web will quickly show you. Bio-active substances in the oil from the seed and pulp are used in a variety of dermatological applications, among them cosmeceutical and anti-ageing face formulations. Tests also reveal that the extract seems to also absorb UV rays, offering further benefit against sun damage and therefore we are now starting to see it in sun care products. Further research also indicates that products containing sea buckthorn berry appear to promote cell tissue regeneration, thus aiding in the healing of wounds, and restoring skin tissue. An international natural bath and beauty chain adds the plant's oil to its sunscreen products as both a sunblock and as a tan-enhancer. In Europe we are also seeing this ingredient appearing in anti-wrinkle creams that attribute its benefits due to its high vitamin and anti-oxidant properties and particularly to the high levels of betacarotene present in the oil. Clinical experiments in Shantow Tropical Disease Hospital and the Shanxi Pharmaceutical Research Institute indicate cosmetics containing sea buckthorn extracts can actually improve metabolism and retard skin maturation, thus slowing the effects of the ageing process. As a result, it is now considered proven effective in the treatment of skin conditions including burns, skin ulcers, cancer, acne and dermatitis of various forms. Current research indicates that not only does it enhance immune activity and disease resistance, but it also destroys harmful free radicals found in our bodies. Another interesting fact is that only 1% dilution is needed to achieve excellent skin benefits, as higher doses of 10% did not demonstrate greater results. SUPPLEMENTATION As a daily supplement sea buckthorn berry has also become very popular and believed to provide the following additional health benefits: •
Protects cell membranes from the harmful effects of chemical contaminants
•
Inhibits formation of atherosclerotic plaque and reduces cholesterol
•
Normalises blood pressure and prevents arrhythmias
•
Acts as a powerful immune system booster
•
Improves the condition of hair and skin
•
Optimises the activity of the pancreas
•
Reduces inflammation and promotes tissue regeneration
It would appear that sea buckthorn oil has jointed the ranks of potent berries that promise to offer us great skin protection as well as internal antioxidant benefits. APJ
For a list of references, please contact the editor.
APJ 75
PERSONALDEVELOPMENT
Let’s fall in Love with SELF-DISCIPLINE Tina Viney
IN OUR STRESSFUL WORLD where life frequently presents challenges and issues on the path to success or accomplishments, the concept of a disciplined behaviour as being a useful strategy can be less than appealing. In modern times, discipline is misunderstood and misinterpreted by some as being a rigid and fixed set of rules enforced by others and to be followed without any questions being asked. They feel it is encroachment of their freedom and rights. However, in this article I want to present to you how you can experience the complete opposite, particularly with self-discipline. I want to help you appreciate self-discipline as something to cherish and even fall in love with, because in actual fact, discipline can be one of your best friends in helping you achieve success with greater ease. Did you know that self-discipline is actually directly related to the concept of freedom? Discipline is neither suppression, nor a means to assert one’s authority, rather it is intrinsic motivation in a person to control oneself, one’s emotion, and desires and live in a uniform and orderly manner. OVERCOMING CHALLENGES AND ACHIEVING GOALS Life is full of temptations, which can take you off-track and prevent you from achieving your goals. These temptations are usually only momentary and with the exercise of selfdiscipline you can get past them. Take weight-loss, or improving your fitness for example, you will never achieve your goals unless you apply a level of self-discipline. Staying on track is very much a matter of focus – if you focus on the discomfort of going through the process, you will lose momentum, but if you choose to focus on the intended results you will stay motivated to go the distance. THE IMPORTANCE OF CHARACTER Take a moment to think about the things you value in a relationship – respect, acceptance, trust and friendship. To gain these from your relationships whether personal or professional, you will need to be defined by certain attributes – honesty, loyalty, dependability, integrity, etc. All of these
APJ 76
attributes require a strong character. They require someone who will act true to their beliefs and values, even when it would be easier to do otherwise. ESTABLISH INNER STRENGTH – CHANGE YOUR BEHAVIOUR There is only one of you in the world – you are wonderfully made with your own set of gifts and talents – a truly unique human being - there is not another exactly like you. You have the freedom to choose who you want to be, it’s just your emotional mind that sometimes stops you from behaving in the manner which you would like to behave. You may be a kind and caring person, but if you lose your temper easily, others will see you as an angry person. In this instance you don’t need to change who you are, you just need to change how you behave. Changing your behaviour will allow others to see you for the true person you really are. This is where self-discipline can allow you to make better choices and free you from unflattering behaviour. VIEWING THE POSITIVES Acting with self-discipline leads to self-assurance, self-regard and inner strength. It also leads to happiness and satisfaction and, of course, it leads to much better outcomes in each area of your life. It is a fact that people with a higher degree of self-control spend less time debating whether to indulge in behaviours that are detrimental to their wellbeing and their goals and are able to make positive decisions more easily. They don’t let impulses or feelings dictate their choices. Instead, they make level-headed decisions. As a result, they tend to feel more satisfied with their lives. So far, we have covered the benefits of self-discipline and we have ascertained that without it you can never have the assurance that you can achieve anything meaningful in your life, whether personally or professionally, but how can you develop self-discipline? There are things you can do to learn self-discipline and gain the willpower to live a happier life. If you are looking to take
control of your habits and choices, here are the 10 most powerful things you can do to master self-discipline. 1. KNOW YOUR WEAKNESSES We all have weaknesses. Whether they’re snacks such as potato chips or chocolate chip cookies, or technology such as Facebook, or the latest addictive game app, they have similar effects on us. Acknowledge your shortcomings, whatever they may be. Too often people either try to pretend their vulnerabilities don’t exist or cover up any pitfalls in their lives. Own up to your flaws. You can’t overcome them until you do. 2. REMOVE TEMPTATIONS Like the saying goes, “out of sight, out of mind.” It may seem silly, but this phrase offers powerful advice. By simply removing your biggest temptations from your environment, you will greatly improve your self-discipline. If you want to eat healthier, don't buy junk food. If you want to improve your productivity at work, turn off notifications and silence your mobile phone. The fewer distractions you have, the more focused you will be on accomplishing your goals. So, to set yourself up for success, ditch bad influences. 3. SET CLEAR GOALS AND AN EXECUTION PLAN If you hope to achieve self-discipline, you must have a clear vision of what you hope to accomplish. You must also have an understanding of what success means to you. After all, if you don’t know where you are going, it’s easy to lose your way or get side-tracked. A clear plan that outlines each step that you must take in order to reach your goals is paramount. Figure out who you are and what you are about. Create a mantra to keep yourself focused. Successful people use this technique to stay on track and establish a clear finish line. 4. BUILD YOUR SELF-DISCIPLINE We aren’t born with self-discipline, it’s a learned behaviour. And just like any other skill you want to master it requires daily practice and repetition. Just like going to the gym, willpower and self-discipline take a lot of work, however, focusing on the positive outcome of what you intend to gain and achieve is the best way to keep you on track. When challenged, remember that diligence will have its rewards. 5. KEEP IT SIMPLE Working on your self-discipline and focusing on developing a new habit may feel a little daunting at first, especially if you focus on the entire task at hand. To avoid feeling intimidated, keep it simple. Break your goal into small, achievable steps. Instead of trying to change everything at once, focus on doing one thing consistently and master self-discipline with that goal in mind. If you’re trying to get in shape, start by working out 10 or 15 minutes a day. If you’re trying to achieve better sleep habits, start by going to bed 15 minutes earlier each night. If you want to eat healthier, start by preparing lunch the night before to take with you in the morning. Take baby steps. Eventually, when you’re ready, you can add more goals to your list. 6. GOOD EATING HABITS When trying to lose weight the most common fear that people have is the sensation of feeling hungry and this can result in resentment and irritation and a substantial impact on willpower. Research confirms that low blood sugar often weakens a
person’s resolve, making you grumpy and pessimistic. Also, when you are hungry, your ability to concentrate suffers and your brain doesn’t function as well. Your self-control is likely weakened in all areas, including diet, exercise, work and relationships. So, fuel up with healthy snacks and regular meals to keep yourself in check. 7. CHANGE YOUR PERCEPTION ABOUT WILLPOWER According to a study by Stanford University, the amount of willpower a person has is determined by their beliefs. If you believe you have a limited amount of willpower, you probably won’t surpass those limits. If you don’t place a limit on your self-control, you are less likely to exhaust yourself before meeting your goals. In short, it may be that our internal conceptions about willpower and self-control determine how much of them we have. If you can remove these subconscious obstacles and truly believe you can do it, then you will give yourself an extra boost of motivation toward making those goals a reality. 8. GIVE YOURSELF A BACKUP PLAN Psychologists use a technique to boost willpower called “implementation intention.” That’s when you give yourself a plan to deal with a potentially difficult situation you know you will likely face. For instance, imagine that you’re working on eating healthier, but you’re on your way to a party where food will be served. Before you go, tell yourself that instead of diving into a plate of cheese and crackers, you will sip a glass of water and focus on mingling. Going in with a plan will help give you the mindset and the self-control necessary for the situation. You will also save energy by not having to make a sudden decision based on your emotional state. 9. REWARD YOURSELF Give yourself something to be excited about by planning a reward when you accomplish your goals. Having something to look forward to will give you the motivation to succeed. Anticipation is powerful. It gives you something to obsess over and focus on, so you’re not only thinking of what you are trying to change. And when you achieve your goal, find a new goal and a new reward to keep yourself moving forward. 10. FORGIVE YOURSELF AND MOVE FORWARD Even with all of our best intentions and well-laid plans, we sometimes fall short. It happens. You will have ups and downs, great successes and dismal failures. Give yourself permission to be human. If you fail to stay consistent in your discipline, don’t get disheartened. If you stumble, acknowledge what caused it and move on. Don’t let yourself get wrapped up in guilt, anger or frustration, because these emotions will only drag you further down and impede future progress. Learn from your missteps and forgive yourself. Then get your head back in the game and refocus on your goals. The key is to keep moving forward. IN CONCLUSION Without a doubt, investing in mastering self-discipline is a worthwhile and rewarding pursuit. It will allow you to harness your strengths and build your character, elevating your capacity for self-confidence and self-respect. With it you will gain control of your life and without it, you may end up losing opportunities and your life could end up chaotic. Indeed, self-discipline creates a rhythm and a pattern in us that serves us and others better. APJ
APJ 77
QUALIFICATIONS
GLOBAL EDUCATIONAL ADVANCES
NETHERLANDS MOVES SKIN THERAPY TO A DEGREE QUALIFICATION An Interview with Gerbrich Hoeve THE SCIENTIFIC ADVANCES in skin science and technologies are accessible to every nation. However, it is the most progressive ones that are identifying the need to provide this knowledge through tertiary education, arguing that many practices within skincare and wellness are more and more aligned with healthcare. Thus, tertiary education can provide a stronger scientific approach, allowing future practitioners to move beyond prevention and basic skincare to embrace corrective skin procedures as a specialty, as well as work more collaboratively with the medical profession.
YOU COVER IN THIS DEGREE PROGRAM THAT RELATE TO AESTHETICS AND SKIN THERAPIES?
Recently, we were delighted to be introduced to Gerbrich Hoeve from The Hague University in the Netherlands who lectures in the Bachelor of Science (Skin Therapy), advancing Beauty Therapy to a clinical level in this nation.
There are two recognised bachelor degrees in skin therapies in the Netherlands. Both deliver the same qualification. All potential candidates who apply are required to undergo a selection process. Both universities start their program in September.
Dermal Clinician Jeannie Devereaux from Australia had the opportunity to lecture at this university during her stay in the Netherlands and was kind enough to introduce us to some of the students and lecturers with the opportunity to establish an international dialogue. Gerbrich, as well as Tessa de Visser, a lecturer from another university were both happy to share with us the status of their degree programs in the Netherlands. A global exchange of knowledge is always a wonderful and valuable thing for many industries. We are thrilled to help support this international exchange for the benefit of our clinical practices. At the time of this interview, both Gerbrich and Tessa were planning to visit Australia and we were delighted to allow them to share a little information about their degree with us. APJ Q1. GERBRICH, CAN YOU PLEASE GIVE US THE NAME OF YOUR SCIENCE DEGREE AND THE KEY UNITS THAT
APJ 78
In the Netherlands, a Beauty Therapist is diploma qualified, while a degree-qualified practitioner is known as a Skin Therapist. Our degrees for skin therapists are known as Bachelor of Science (Skin Therapy). This is a four-year degree and it is delivered at The Hague University of Applied Sciences, (THUAS), in the Netherlands. This degree is equivalent to 240 ECTS points.
The Dutch Association of Skin Therapy (NVH, https://www. huidtherapie.nl/) is the professional body that contributes through consultation to the universities to ensure that the learning objectives of the degree qualifications will meet with the required level of learning and strengthen the level of knowledge and skill of their graduates to meet with industry needs. In the Netherlands they are known as skin therapists and oedema therapists. The educational outcome of these degrees is based on the Canadian CanMEDS-model (Canadian Medical Education Directives for Specialists - Royal College of Physicians and Surgeons of Canada, 2016), which consists of the following competencies. There are seven competencies described in this ‘flower’. In the centre is located the competencies of ‘skintherapeutics’. Around the centre of the ‘flower’ are all the other competencies that Dutch skin therapists are required
to possess in their daily work. These competencies include: Professional, Communicator, Scholar, Health Advocate, Manager and Collaborator. While developing the program, we used these fundamentals as the competency profiles for our four-year degree program.
•
Laser therapy and treatment
Third and fourth year Minor internship, differentiation subjects (to extend and deepen knowledge and skills), research thesis
The Degree’s learning objectives of the program are broadly divided as follows: First year (bachelor) • Pigmentation and treatment (camouflage) •
Law and professional rules and procedures for a Dermal Therapist in the Netherlands
•
Acne and treatment
•
Multidisciplinary cooperation
•
Hair and nail disorders and treatment (Electrical Epilation)
•
Evidence Based Research (basic)
•
Skin tumors (malignant and benign) and screening
•
Communication (skills) with difficult news
• Advisory function in skin protection Second year (bachelor) • Oedema and treatment (during disease and after) •
Dermal Therapy and Technology
•
Entrepreneurship
•
Global Citizenship, International Dermal Therapy and Networking
APJ Q2. UPON GRADUATION OF YOUR DEGREE, WHAT JOB OPPORTUNITIES CAN THEY APPLY FOR IN THE NETHERLANDS – PLASTIC SURGERY, COSMETIC PHYSICIAN, MEDI-SPA, AESTHETIC AND LASER CLINICS, ETC? Most skin therapists in the Netherlands are working in small or larger skin clinics that deliver multi-disciplinary modalities and services, for example working collaboratively with a plastic surgeon and or a dermatologist. Other employment opportunities are usually available in cosmetic clinics, laser
APJ 79
resulting from a skin disorder, while improving quality of life. Treatments vary in methods and duration depending on the skin disorder. Skin therapists have patients, beauty therapists have clients. Skin therapists work with more detailed guidelines and protocols. We use stronger peelings than beauty therapists, which go deeper into the skin. We train our skin Tessa De Visser Gerbrich Hoeve therapists to use a variety of treatments for each patient that complement and reinforce one another to achieve optimum results. Skin clinics or anti-ageing centres. Positions are also available in therapists make a therapeutic skin diagnosis, not a medical hospitals treating burns or wound care, as well as through diagnose. We work on evidence-based principles. We are smaller independent clinics. However, skin therapists do not not allowed to prescribe medications. We work closely with work in spa centres. general practitioners (medical doctor) and dermatologists. Skin therapists are directly accessible to the public. In Holland APJ Q3. CAN YOUR GRADUATES WORK IN A LASER CLINIC dermatologists are only accessible through the general WITH THIS QUALIFICATION AND WHAT DEVICES WOULD practitioner. In our degree we work with a dermatologist who THEY BE QUALIFIED TO OPERATE? is involved in providing lectures and practical teaching. Yes, our graduates can operate all laser devices. Phototherapy In cosmetic centers skin therapists work closely with beauty is covered in the second year of the degree, both the physics therapists, dermatologists and plastic surgeons. For example, of light, as well as the practical application of this knowledge. moderate acne is treated by beauty therapists, but active Students are trained to understand how to determine acne is treated by skin therapists. When medication is the appropriate setting (regardless of the laser brand), to needed it will be prescribed by a dermatologist or general address specific treatment requirements, for example for hair practitioner. Additional treatments, depending on the type of reduction, vascular lesions, skin rejuvenation, tattoo removal acne, will be provided by beauty therapist, skin therapist and/ and also treating nail fungus (onychomycoses). The focus or a dermatologist. of their training is on evidence-based treatments that are backed by research findings. This information can then be APJ Q5. HOW IS THE AESTHETICS INDUSTRY REGULATED IN translated across to ensure successful treatment outcomes. THE NETHERLANDS? APJ Q4. HOW DOES YOUR DEGREE PROGRAM DIFFER IN The skin therapist is a paramedical professional working TERMS OF SCOPE-OF-PRACTICE COMPARED TO A DIPLOMA in primary and secondary healthcare in the Netherlands. A IN BEAUTY THERAPY? skin therapist is a paramedical professional recognised by Dutch law. The title of "skin therapist" is protected by Dutch Critical thinking based on clinical data is an important law and is reserved to those who have the qualifications as difference between skin therapy and beauty therapy. The defined by Dutch law. These qualifications are covered by a goal of treatment by a degree qualified skin therapist is diploma of Higher Professional Education in Skin Therapy. to eliminate, reduce or avoid impairments, or limitations APJ 80
The law includes requirements for quality care and the continuing professional development and rationalisation of the professional conduct of the skin therapist. APJ Q6. ARE YOU INTEREST IN STUDENT EXCHANGE PROGRAMS AND HOW DO YOU BELIEVE THAT THIS COULD BENEFIT BOTH DUTCH AND AUSTRALIAN STUDENTS? THUAS is focusing on global reach. The Hague University of Applied Sciences is becoming more internationally oriented by the day. Almost 26,000 students from more than 140 different countries are enrolled in degree programs at our university of applied sciences, and we work in partnership with as many as 333 other educational institutions across the world. International students make up a larger percentage of the total student population and more students take an Englishlanguage course. We also participate in various platforms outside of the Netherlands. For example, we have strategic partnerships with knowledge institutions for higher education in countries such as Germany, Brazil and China. Collective learning and working beyond the borders of our own disciplines form the key to identifying new solutions to today’s challenges.
We hope that skin and dermal therapies will become a worldwide recognised professional discipline. By the introduction of a student exchange program with Australia, we can learn from each other and that will make us as a profession, stronger world-wide. APJ Q7. WOULD YOU BE OPEN TO AN EDUCATIONAL COLLABORATION BETWEEN APAN AND YOUR UNIVERSITY? We are always open to educational collaborations. IN CONCLUSION The world is indeed becoming an international community. Knowledge exchange is so valuable and each nation has its areas of strength. Sharing this knowledge will enrich the learning experience and create valuable collaborations that can strengthen an industry’s reputation and international recognition. APJ
Every year more skin therapy students go abroad for their international internship. They gain work-experience in their respective area of specialisation in both education and practices. Skin Day APJ 81
PERSONALDEVELOPMENT
CAUSE VERSUS SYMPTOM
Discovering the WHY FACTOR in client acquisition By Phillip Fernandez (Human Strategist, Speaker, Self-Development Coach, Author)
THE MOST FREQUENTLY ASKED WORD in a growing child’s vocabulary is the word WHY. You see their insatiable curiosity always searching for answers and solutions, which in turn develops their knowledge, thinking, feelings and eventually their actions. It is interesting however, that as that child grows up and becomes more knowledgeable and wiser, they tend to unconsciously lose the need for the WHY. They tend to get caught up in the whirlpool of time, pressure, deadlines, business and personal demands and the notion that “you should know better so, just get on with the job”. The job comes with goals, Key Performing Indicators (KPIs), accountability and responsibility. This can then lead to a whole myriad of thoughts, feelings and emotions that come with the fear of the unknown. As you know, fear can really test your inner resilience, beliefs and above all, taking action to move forward. Fear is one of the most powerful forces in life. It affects the decisions you make, the actions you take, which in turn affects the outcomes you achieve. This then becomes your unconscious blockage and if not addressed early on in life, it can lead to creating what I call “Stories” that justify the fears and so it becomes your reality through which you live your life. Fear of failure is the emotional, cognitive and the behavioural reaction to the negative consequences you anticipate for failing to achieve a goal and intense worry, and negative thinking leads to mental and even physical trauma. So, let’s take a closer look at how fear can manifest in our thinking. The following beliefs can be as a result of fear:
1. Embarrassment Some people view failure as embarrassing – “what will people think about me? I won’t look that smart. They might think I am not trying hard enough”? 2. I don’t have what it takes Sometimes people will lack confidence. “I don’t have APJ 82
what it takes to be successful”, this belief can affect their self-worth and self-confidence to try something different and move forward. 3. I am stuck in a rut “This is all I know to do in order to execute my job, I don’t know anything else”. This can result in fear and insecurity to try anything else. 4. The fear of being irrelevant “If I don’t perform I will be rejected, as I will become irrelevant to my client.” This can lead to living on edge and always feeling you have to prove yourself. 5. What others might say, or think The opinions of others become so important to your performance that it becomes imperative that others are always happy, and you don’t want to offend anyone. 6. Feeling Pushy This is very prevalent in selling, when one has to either sell a product, or a treatment package. The fear that the client may think that you just want to sell them a product or service because you have a target to meet can often prevent you from even trying. 7. Communication impediments You experience difficulty in starting a conversation because of various preconceived ideas e.g. You perceive a generational gap with the client, you believe that the client is not that talkative, does not connect with you as a person, only wants what they came in for, has already bought retail from you the last time. Other reasons could be that you don’t feel like talking that day because you are feeling tired, or don’t feel well, or many other reasons why it is so difficult to communicate. I have to say that all the above reasons that come under the umbrella of “fear of failure” are all just STORIES that we have unconsciously created in our lives. We have succeeded in
believing these narratives so well that they now have become our reality and we begin to live by them.
focused on their total experience and the rest will take care of itself.
When I ask a therapist “Did the client tell you that you were pushy when you tried to sell them some skin products?”, they always rely, “No, I told myself that”.
Let’s stop focusing on the SYMPTOM - the KPIs, fear of failure or the stories we play in our mind and start focusing on the CAUSE which is the WHY FACTOR - why are they coming to us? This will allow you to connect with them and it will help you deliver the ultimate experience and results for your client. APJ
Yes, that is often what happens. We unconsciously tell ourselves a narrative of limitations and then that justifies our lack of positive action moving forward. I often refer to this as the monkey on their shoulder that is telling them these things. Tell the monkey to go away and start to take ownership of your decisions. You see, we all know what to do. We all know what our KPIs are and what is expected of us when we turn up to work, but the question I ask is, WHY do only around 20% of staff become productive, while the rest struggle with the above issues? To get staff to take ownership we need to understand WHY they are struggling to perform or feel confident in their ability. Our conversation should be to get them to identify their fears, understand they have been fabricating these narratives and then take ownership of them. Only then will you start to see a rise in personal and business performance. In helping to change their behaviour this brings me to what I call the I FACTOR versus the YOU FACTOR. The I FACTOR is only thinking about ourselves – “what will the client think of me, will I appear pushy if I try to suggest they purchase something, or will they think I am not experienced enough because of my age to make a recommendation?” The YOU FACTOR is about only focusing on the other person’s needs - “what will be right for your skin and my duty-of-care to recommend this. That will be best for you in terms of receiving exceptional client care and what can I do to deliver the ultimate result for you? How can I educate you so that you can make an informed decision?” The focus here is very different. Good communication focused on your client’s needs will allow the client to make an informed decision, rather than you making it for them. Your focus and intentions should be
Phillip Fernandez will also be speaking at the APAN Aesthetics Conference in Melbourne Monday 12th August. He will be sharing valuable principles on THE MISSING LINK – THE POWER OF HUMAN CONNECTIONS.
BUSINESS LEADERSHIP WORKSHOP Following the APAN Conference in Mebourne, Phillip will be conducting a one-day BUSINESS LEADERSHIP WORKSHOP on Tuesday 14th August. To register for one or both of these events please visit www.apanconf.com or 07 5593 0360 for further details.
APJ 83
COSMETICS
PEPTIDES FOR THE SKIN
New Research Findings Part 1 Tina Viney
THERE IS SO MUCH talk about peptides as being one of the hero products for skin corrective procedures, whether addressing skin disorders, or anti-ageing objectives. However, we need to be cautious with some ingredients that lack any significant evidence-based research to back them so that they can be fully trusted for their claims, but the good news is that the evidence is coming through. In the past decade, many new peptides have been developed and new knowledge on how they improve the skin has been uncovered. The spectrum of peptides in the field of cosmetic formulations is continuingly taking centre stage. In this two-part article I will present some of the latest research findings and attempt to identify what studies are discovering about their capabilities. As skin treatments are becoming more targeted in terms of their intended outcomes, the need for a deeper understanding of how we can efficaciously use ingredients is critical. In this first article, I will summarise some of the clinical trials on cosmeceutical peptides that work against intrinsic and extrinsic ageing. Well-known and documented peptides like copper tripeptide are still under research to obtain more details on their effectiveness, and for the development of new treatments. On the other hand, Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 and Carnosine have been more thoroughly researched and the efficacy validated. HISTORY AND BACKGROUND Peptides and proteins are amino acid polymers. Peptides are short amino acid chains. The name peptide comes from the Greek word pepton which means to digest. Naturally occurring, human peptides are known for cellular communication, such as protein regulation, cell proliferation, cell migration, inflammation, angiogenesis, and melanogenesis that results in a broad variety of physiological processes including defence, immunity, stress, growth, homeostasis, and reproduction.
APJ 84
The first peptides were described by Emil Fischer and Hofmeister in the early 19th century and the first peptide synthesis was published in 1901 by Fischer and Fourneauin. Fischer described the first peptide as a glycyl-glycine and in his lectures explained more peptide structure like dipeptides, tripeptides and polypeptides. Years followed, and scientists synthesised new peptides, identified more natural peptides, and learned more about their functions. Beside the growing knowledge about natural and synthetic peptides, different synthetic peptides were developed. Copper glycine-histidine-lysine (Cu-GHK) was developed in 1973 by Loren Pickard and by the late 80’s, the first copper peptide was incorporated into skincare products. Even then, peptide development proceeded slowly until the beginning of 2000, when palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 was established. Since then, research and industry have developed many short, stable, and synthetic peptides that have a role in extracellular matrix synthesis, pigmentation, innate immunity and inflammation. These peptides are used for collagen stimulation, wound healing, “Botox-like” wrinkle smoothing, as well as antioxidative, antimicrobial and for their whitening effects on the skin. Peptides used in cosmetic formulations can be classified for their specific action. For example, they can be classified as signalling peptides, carrier peptides, neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides, and enzyme inhibitor peptides. THE ISSUE OF MOLECULAR WEIGHT Cosmeceutical peptides should have certain features in order to obtain good effects. Historically, it has always been assumed that because of the skin barrier, the molecular weight of peptides should be less than 500 Da, otherwise the peptide would not be able to pass the barrier. The moderate log of the partition coefficient for octanol/water should be between 1 and 3, the melting point should be below 200 °C, water solubility should be >1 mg/mL and there should be no or few polar centres.
This notion has been challenged in recent times and newer studies have shown that larger molecules can traverse the skin barrier, especially in the case of dry and aged skin. Synthetic peptides consist of amino acid chains which can now be modified in various ways for different functions like increased skin penetration, and increased special receptor binding, stability, and solubility. It is important to note that it is often the way that a cosmetic formula is put together that may alter the effectiveness of the individual peptides and their efficacy on the skin may be unclear. Claims of efficacy by cosmeceuticals are restricted to the improvement of the skin’s appearance. Improving cosmeceutical function might lead to re-classification from cosmetic to drug category, which is often not desirable. Research on peptides should aim to identify the peptide's mode of action, and define it for cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical use. The prerequisites for an effective active substance must be carefully examined before it is used. Study designs should be developed carefully, and maximal results should be generated. With today’s methods, receptor activation, efficacy, and mechanistic information can be identified. Interesting and meaningful in vivo studies have contributed to a greater interest in the efficacy and use of peptides both for cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical skincare use in the past decade. SIGNALLING PEPTIDES In this article we will focus on the signalling action of peptides. A number of peptides are able to trigger a signalling cascade. They are released from the extracellular matrix, and are also called matricins, or collagen stimulators. With these peptides, the proliferation of collagen, elastin, proteoglycan, glycosaminoglycan and fibronectin is increased. As a consequence, pigmentation of photo-damaged skin and fine lines and wrinkles are reduced with the regeneration of the skin’s matrix cells. Skin elasticity increases, and skin appears smoother and firmer. Synthetic peptides modelled on repair signalling sequences like the following described in this section, have been developed to rejuvenate skin. These include: Carnosine and N-Acetylcarnosine Carnosine is a dipeptide (Sequence: β-Ala-His) and a welldocumented aqueous antioxidant with wound healing activity, and it is naturally present in high concentrations in muscle and brain tissues. Carnosine is a scavenging reactive oxygen species as well as an α-β unsaturated aldehyde formed from peroxidation of cell membrane fatty acids during oxidative stress. The low molecular weight water-soluble unmodified dipeptide β-Ala-His has very little affinity to the skin and does not penetrate beyond the first layer of the stratum corneum. The lipophilic peptide palmitoyl β-Ala-His however, diffuses into the stratum corneum, epidermal, and dermal skin layers. In studies, no systemic activity has been observed. In two double-blind, randomised, controlled, split-face studies of four weeks each, changes in periorbital wrinkles in women (aged 30–70) were observed (Study 1, 42 volunteers; Study 2, 35 volunteers). Tested products containing niacinamide, the peptides pal-KT and pal-KTTKS, and carnosine, ameliorated periorbital skin were observed to enhance smoothness and diminishing larger wrinkle depth. A double-blind irradiation study comparing a complex consisting of different active ingredients (SPF 50, photolyase, endonuclease, 8-oxoguanine glycosylase, carnosine, arazine, and ergothionine) in available products with DNA
repair, antioxidant and growth factor ingredients, found the formulation to be effective in reducing pyrimidine dimers, protein carbonylation, and 8-oxo-7,8-dihydro-2′deoxyguanosine in human skin biopsies. The formulation also appeared to enhance the genomic and proteomic integrity of skin cells after continual UV exposure. Hence, this formulation could be regarded as potentially lowering the risk of UV-induced cutaneous ageing, and nonmelanoma skin cancer. During a six-month study, 20 healthy volunteers (Photo type II or III) were treated with carnosine and N-acetylcarnosine formulations. Carnosine and N-acetylcarnosine alone in a water solution obtained 3.6% and 7.3% reduction of erythema compared to the control. Both peptides showed antioxidant capacity, with a higher significance in conjunction with vehicles improving the substances’ skin penetration capabilities. N-acetylcarnosine was mentioned as an interesting hydrophilic antioxidant for dermatological purposes. Trifluoroacetyl-Tripeptide-2 Trifluoroacetyl-tripeptide-2 (Sequence: TFA-Val-Try-Val-OH) was evaluated in two in vivo split face studies. One study examined its anti-wrinkle and anti-sagging effects along the jawline of 10 volunteers (56 days) via fringe projection profilometry; and the other study targeted skin firmness, elasticity, and viscoelasticity via cytometry on 13 healthy volunteers (28 days). According to the studies, trifluoroacetyltripeptide-2 has progressive effects on wrinkles, firmness, elasticity and sagging. Tripeptide-10 Citrulline Tripeptide-10 citrulline (Sequence: Lys-α-Asp-Ile-Citrulline), a decorin-like tetrapeptide, was used to specifically target collagen fibre organisation. Puig et al. published results of an assessor blinded, placebo-controlled, parallel group study with 43 healthy volunteers (aged 40–58). Tripeptide-10 citrulline showed uniformity in fibril diameter, and increased skin suppleness from better collagen fibre cohesion. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, also called pal-GHK and palmitoyl oligopeptide (Sequence: Pal-Gly-His-Lys), is a messenger peptide for collagen renewal. Comparable to retinoic acid with regards to its activity, it does not trigger irritation. Collagen and glycosaminoglycan synthesis are stimulated, the epidermis is reinforced and wrinkles are diminished. This peptide is suggested to act on TGFβ to stimulate fibrillogenesis. It is used in cosmetic anti-wrinkle skincare and makeup products. In a study with 15 women, a cream containing palmitoyl tripeptide-1 was applied twice daily for four weeks, leading to statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth and skin roughness. Another study applied both vehicle and palmitoyl tripeptide-1 to the skin of 23 healthy female volunteers for four weeks, documenting a small but statistically significant increase in skin thickness (~4%, compared to the vehicle alone). A combination of pal-GHK tripeptide and pal-GQPR tetrapeptide is marketed as an anti-wrinkle compound with the trade name Matrixyl™3000. A blind, randomised clinical study with 28 volunteers twice daily applying cream including the active compound to half their face and one of their forearms and a placebo cream to the other half of the face and other forearm confirmed anti-wrinkle efficacy, reduction of wrinkle depth, volume and density, skin roughness and complexity, as well as a decrease of the area occupied by deep wrinkles, and an increase in skin tone.
APJ 85
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3/5 Palmitoyl tripeptide-3/5 mimics the effects of an extracellular matrix protein, thrombospondin-1 (TSP-1), a naturally occurring molecule that increases TGFβ activity. In animal models and human dermal fibroblasts cell culture tests, TSP-1 acts locally to improve wound healing, and is believed to be active in the post-natal development of skin structures. The short sequence Lys-Arg-Phe-Lys of the TSP-1 protein is responsible for TGFβ stimulation. TGFβ in turn, causes a persistent increase in the amounts of Type I and Type III collagen that dermal fibroblasts produce. Palmitoyl tripeptide-3/5 (Sequence: Pal-Lys-Val-Lys bistrifluoracetae salt) (SYN®-COLL) stimulates collagen production in in vitro and in vivo studies through the growth factor TGFβ. Animal studies indicate that palmitoyl tripeptide-3/5 may increase collagen synthesis. In vitro studies show that palmitoyl tripeptide-3/5 can prevent collagen breakdown by interfering with MMP1 and MMP3 collagen degradation. Palmitoyl tripeptide-3/5 seems to boost collagen synthesis, but decreases collagen breakdown. Additional data show that palmitoyl tripeptide-3/5 is roughly 3.5 times more effective at reducing the appearance of wrinkles than the placebo. In vivo results of a palmitoyl tripeptide-3/5 (10 to 25 ppm) cream formulation demonstrated a dose-dependent wrinkle reduction, measured by PRIMOS surface topography. In an efficacy study performed on 60 Chinese volunteers (84 days, applied twice daily), palmitoyl tripeptide-3/5 confirmed its anti-wrinkle efficacy and reduced skin roughness better than control groups, placebo and pal-KTTKS-containing creams. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 Epithelial regeneration in skin is achieved by the constant turnover and differentiation of keratinocytes. Epidermal and dermal stem cell compartments are fundamental for the continuous renewal of the skin. Adult stem cells are the unique source for skin tissue renewal. Plants also have stem cells and plant-derived stem cell extracts are now used in topical products, while they do not replace damaged stem cells they are found to potentially deliver anti-ageing and antiwrinkle effects. A dermocosmetic product containing apple stem cell extract, urea, creatine and palmitoyl tripeptide-38 (Sequence: Pal-LysMet(O2)-Lys-OH) was applied on the face twice daily for 28 days, and assessed by clinical and instrumental evaluation in 32 women with sensitive skin bearing crow’s feet wrinkles. The treatment results showed a significant increase in dermal
APJ 86
density and elasticity, as well as anti-wrinkle effects. The antiageing serum seems to improve ageing skin signs with the first visible results achieved after one-week treatment. To determine the effectiveness of a multi-ingredient anti-ageing moisturiser, an open label clinical trial was conducted with 37 female subjects of ages 35–60. The effective ingredients of the moisturiser for the facial skin included Astragalus membranaceus root extract, a peptide blend including palmitoyl tripeptide-38, standardized rosemary leaf extract (ursolic acid), tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, and ubiquinone. Results were favourable in both product efficacy measurements and aesthetic self-assessment questionnaires, with subjects judging the product as being mild and well-tolerated. Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, (Matrixyl®) (Sequence: PalLys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser-OH or pal-KTTKS-OH) is a small, highly specific biologically active peptide which has been reported to stimulate the production of elastin, fibronectin, glucosaminoglycan and collagens (specifically Types I, III and IV), support of the extracellular matrix, and wound healing. KTTKS structure is related to the precursor of collagen Type I (or procollagen Type I). The stimulatory effect of KTTKS on collagen Types I and III, and fibronectin, seems to relate mainly to the biosynthetic pathway, rather than the export or degradation pathways. KTTKS has a molecular weight of 563.64 Da, the longer pal-KTTKS is 802.05 Da. In a placebo-controlled double-blind study, pal-KTTKS (0.005%) formulation was applied to the right periocular area twice daily for 28 days. As demonstrated by optical profilometry, this resulted in a quantitative decrease in fold depth, fold thickness, and skin rigidity, by 18%, 37%, and 21%, respectively. These results were confirmed in two other placebo-controlled double- blind studies in women (42 and 35 subjects) with moderate to distinct periorbital wrinkles. A double-blind, placebo-controlled, split face, left-right randomised trial involving 93 subjects was carried out to assess the clinical efficacy of pal-KTTKS, with fine line or wrinkle improvement as the parameter of interest. In another four month-long double-blind study, 49 women were directed to apply either pal-KTTKS or vehicle twice daily to their faces. The results showed that pal-KTTKS exhibited significant improvement in skin roughness, wrinkle volume, and wrinkle depth, compared with the vehicle. Data associated pal-KTTKS with an increase in elastin fibre density and thickness, as well as improved collagen IV regulation at the dermal-epidermal junction.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptid-7 Another effective peptide, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 (Rigin™) (Sequence: Pal-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg or pal-GQPR) is a fragment of immunoglobulin G. Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 decreases IL-6 secretion in a basal setting, and serves as an antiinflammatory after exposure to UVB-irradiation. In vivo reflectance confocal microscopy studies indicated that a blend of palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 enhanced the extracellular matrix structure compared to placebo. Sixty healthy photoaged volunteers (aged 45–80) were tested over 12 months with a formulation containing palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and another active ingredient. A reduction of facial wrinkles was documented by this long-term use. Better skin appearance was related to the deposition of fibrillin-rich microfibrils in the papillary dermis of treated skin. 2.9. Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 (Sequence: Pal-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-ProGly), which is the peptide in Biopeptide-EL, creates a response in the dermis of the skin that stimulates collagen and elastin fibroblasts, developing fibronectin and glycosaminoglycans. It is believed to work by reducing the production of interleukin-6 (IL-6) by key skin cells, keratinocytes and fibroblasts. IL-6 is a molecule that promotes inflammation, which, in turn, leads to faster degradation of the skin matrix, and thus contributes to the development of wrinkles, and loss of skin firmness and elasticity. By reducing the levels of IL-6 and possibly other inflammation mediators, palmitoyl is thought to slow down the degradation of the skin matrix, and may also stimulate its replenishment. A one-month double-blind study was conducted on 10 female volunteers, aged 32–56, who performed twice daily applications of a light emulsion containing 4%, or a placebo. Palmitoyl hexapeptide treatment improved elasticity, tone, skin fatigue and firmness. Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9/11 Acetyl tetrapeptide-9 (Dermican™) (Sequence: N-AcetylGln-Asp-Val-His) is reported to stimulate collagen Type I and lumican synthesis, whereas acetyl tetrapeptide-11 (Sequence: N-Acetyl-Pro-Pro-Tyr-Leu) (Syniorage™) stimulates keratinocyte cell growth and syndecan-1 synthesis. Clinical studies documented that treatment with acetyl tetrapeptide-9 (17 female volunteers) or acetyl tetrapeptide-11 (19 female volunteers) led to thicker and firmer skin. Both peptides were more effective compared to placebos. Tetrapeptide-21 Tetrapeptide-21, also named GEKG (Sequence: Gly-GluLys-Gly), was derived from ECM proteins. Its amino acid sequence is glycine-glutamic acid-lysine-glycine. This peptide demonstrated in in vitro studies, an increase of collagen (Type I) production on the protein level and mRNA level, hyaluronic acid synthase 1 production, and a strong increase in fibronectin (GEKG Conc. 0.001%). Increase in collagen (COL1A1), procollagen, hyaluronic acid and fibronectin, as well as skin elasticity, were measured in a double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled study (10 women/eight weeks). A placebo-controlled study with 30 subjects was carried out to analyse the effect of GEKG on facial wrinkles. GEKG significantly decreased skin roughness. In a comparison study with GEKG vs. pal-KTTKS with 60 subjects, elasticity increased after two daily treatments over eight weeks by 41.3% for GEKG, while pal-KTTKS showed an improvement of 35.6%. Tetrapeptide PKEK Tetrapeptide PKEK (Sequence: Pro-Lys-Glu-Lys) can exert skin whitening effects. For PKEK development, Lys-Glu-Lys
(KEK) was modified with proline to stabilize the peptide structure. Study results showed that PKEK reduces interleukin-6, interleukin-8, and tumour necrosis factor-α, as well as cyclooxygenase gene expression in UV light-stressed keratinocytes. The treatment of human keratinocytes with PKEK was seen to significantly reduce UVB-stimulated mRNA expression of interleukin (IL)-6, IL-8 and TNF-α and most importantly, proopiomelanocorticotropin (POMC). In a randomised, double-blind, vehicle-controlled study with PKEK treatment once daily, punch biopsies of 10 healthy volunteers were taken after four weeks. PKEK treatment significantly inhibited UVB-induced upregulation of genes encoding for IL-1α, IL-6, IL-8, TNF-α as well as POMC and tyrosinase in skin areas pretreated with PKEK. A second study was performed as a half-face in vivo efficacy test with 39 Caucasian women. Facial pigment spots were significantly faded after six weeks when PKEK was combined with the skin whitener sodium ascorbyl phosphate. PKEK or sodium ascorbyl phosphate alone led to less pronounced fading of the pigment spots than a combination of the two. An in vivo hand cream efficacy study confirmed the above result after application for eight weeks to the back of the hands of 19 Caucasians. In the fourth study, 27 Japanese women were separated in two groups which treated faces twice daily with either sodium ascorbyl phosphate only, or with a PKEK + sodium ascorbyl phosphate formulation, for eight weeks. Application of PKEK + sodium ascorbyl phosphate significantly reduced skin pigmentation by 26%, and sodium ascorbyl phosphate by 18%, according to the SCINEXA score. It was confirmed that PKEK has the capacity to reduce UVB-induced skin pigmentation in all study models, and it may be suitable as a skin tone-modulating agent in cosmetic products. Hexapeptide-11 Hexapeptide-11 (Pentamide-6, Sequence: Phe-Val-Ala-ProPhe-Pro) was originally isolated from Saccharomyces yeast fermentation, but was later synthesised because of purity issues. Hexapeptide-11 has the ability to influence the onset of senescence in intrinsically and extrinsically aged fibroblasts, and extrinsically aged dermal papillae cells in vitro. Gorouhi and Maibach reviewed a placebo-controlled study with 25 healthy volunteers, treating their skin twice daily for four weeks. Initial skin elasticity and deformation response were improved. Hexapeptide-14 Hexapeptide-14 (palmitoyl hexapeptide-14) has been reported to stimulate cell migration, collagen synthesis, and fibroblast proliferation and scaffolding. A 12-week study with 29 volunteers showed results of reduced fine lines and wrinkles by palmitoyl hexapeptide-14. Results were compared with tretinoin and no irritations were noted. IN CONCLUSION Stay tuned as in the next issue of APJ we will look at carrier peptides, neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides, enzyme inhibitor peptides and peptides derived from structural protein digestion. Knowning what science is uncovering regarding the various peptides will allow you to work more targeted when treating various skin conditions. APJ
For a list of references, please contact the editor.
APJ 87
INDUSTRIALLAW
MEALS AND REST BREAKS
What are my Employees Entitlements? Jess Tomlinson and Michael Bishop Pointon Partner Lawyers
THE ISSUE OF MEAL AND REST breaks are often misunderstood, however there are guidelines in industrial law and it is wise for a business owner to ensure they are adhering to these laws with their staff. In this article our legal advisors have submitted an article to bring clarity to this issue. The article was presented to us by Jess Tomlinson and Michael Bishop, senior partner of Pointon Partners. Employees take meal and rest breaks every day, but do you know what your employee is actually entitled to? The Fair Work Act 2009 (Cth) does not provide a statutory entitlement to any work breaks. The entitlement for a break is subject to the applicable award, enterprise agreement or an employee’s contract of employment. The Hair and Beauty Industry Award 2010 (Hair and Beauty Award) provides for types of breaks paid and unpaid breaks, the length of breaks and when they need to be taken. WHAT ARE MEAL AND REST BREAKS? A meal break is a period of 45 minutes to 60 minutes. This period allows an employee uninterrupted rest and time to eat a meal each day. An employee is also free to leave the business premises during that time.
APJ 88
However, by mutual agreement, the Hair and Beauty Industry Award 2010 (Hair and Beauty Award) provides that this period of the meal break can be shortened to 30 minutes. On the other hand, a rest break is a period of 10 minutes that occurs during work hours. A rest break, also known as a tea break, allows an employee to rest for a short period of time. WHAT BREAKS ARE EMPLOYESS ENTITIELD TO UNDER THE HAIR AND BEAUTY AWARD? The Hair and Beauty Award provides that all employees who work 5-hours or more must be guaranteed a meal break. A full-time employee who is engaged to work an average of 38-hours, must be granted to rest breaks and a meal break each day. The rest breaks must be taken on either side of the meal breaks. The Hair and Beauty Award states a part-time employee who works any period of four hours or more but no more than seven hours on any day must receive a rest break. If the parttime employee is also granted a meal break, the rest break must be taken either: •
in the portion of the work period, which is greater; or
•
where the work periods are the same, at a time mutually agreed between the employer and the part-time employee.
However, if a part-time or causal employee works for a period of 7-hours or more on any day, they must be granted two rest breaks and a meal break in the same manner as a full-time employee.
ARE CONTRACTORS ENTITLED TO A BREAK? A contractor is not an employee of the business and therefore there are no entitlements to meal or rest breaks under the Hair and Beauty Award in relation to contractors.
For part-time employees commencing employment with the employer, the Award provides that the employer and the part-time employee will agree, in writing, on a regular pattern. This agreement should specify the times of taking and the duration of meal breaks.
An agreement between the contactor and the business will provide for payment and hours for work to be performed by it is up to the contactor to decide when to take their own rest and meal breaks. However, this break is not included as part of their paid hours.
DO I HAVE TO PAY MY EMPLOYEE WHILE THEY ARE ON A MEAL OR REST BREAK? The Hair and Beauty Award expressly states that a rest break is counted as time worked and therefore the employer must pay the employee for their time.
IN SUMMARY An employee’s entitlements are employer’s obligations in relation to rest and meal breaks as is set out in the Hair and Beauty Award. APJ
•
In comparison, a meal break is an unpaid break and does not count as time worked. WHAT IF THE EMPLOYEE WORKS THROUGHT THEIR MEAL BREAK? As a meal break is an unpaid break and not considered part of the employees work hours, any direction from an employer to work during a meal break will result in the employee being paid for their time at the appropriate overtime penalty rates.
If you wish to seek advice in relation to these matters, or if you would like your plarticular casual employment arrangements reviewed please contact Michael Bishop or Jess Tomlinson of Pointon Partners on 03 9614 7707.
POINTON PARTNER LAWYERS Pointon Partners offers the expertise and experience of a top tier law firm, coupled with the personal service and attention that can only be offered by an expert, smaller firm. Our lawyers are technically excellent in their areas of expertise, but more importantly for our clients, they are genuinely concerned with the application of the law in the ‘real world’ to achieve results. We are outcome-focused and commercially-minded, helping clients achieve their goals or solve their problems in the most effective and efficient manner is our key objective. “More than a law firm, we’re your legal partner. An extension of your team. Your success is our success. That’s what drives us to be the best.” Services include: •
Employment Law
•
Commercial
•
Corporate
•
Taxation
•
Litigation
•
Intellectual Properties
•
Property
•
Wills and Estates
•
Restructuring and Insolvency
For legal advice and services Ph: 03 9614 7707 or email Michael Bishop mjb@pointonpartners.com.au APJ 89
SKINTECHNOLOGY
VIEWING THE SKIN WITH THE HELP OF TECHNOLOGY Tina Viney WE WOULD ALL AGREE that the success of any skin treatment starts with a thorough skin analysis. During this process we examine not just the skin’s manifestations, but also considers a complete health evaluation of the individual, reviewing lifestyle habits, health issues and medication. A thorough skin analysis will help you determine key considerations in achieving the best possible outcomes, while also identifying any contra-indications.
whether the pigmentation is epidermal (pigmentation enhanced bya Woods lamp examination) or dermal (pigmentation unchanged by a Wood lamp examination). Pigmented lesions have a clear border under Wood light because the light is absorbed by increased melanin. •
Loss of pigmentation (e.g. vitiligo, ashleaf macules in tuberous sclerosis, and hypomelanosis) to identify affected areas in light-skinned people. Hypopigmented skin has sharper borders under black light and fluoresces bright blue-white (or sometimes, yellowish green) due to accumulated biopterins. In contrast, areas of reduced blood flow are unchanged.
•
Pityriasis versicolour - a slightly scaly persistent rash on anterior chest and back caused by Malassezia yeasts.
THE WOODS LAMP The most traditional and fundamental tool in examining the skin would have to be the Woods Lamp. While this is a simple and inexpensive tool, it is a credible one that has its roots in dermatology.
•
Malassezia folliculitis - hair follicles fluoresce bluishwhite
•
Tinea capitis and fungal conditions - areas of scale and baldness due to fungal infection.
•
Head lice and scabies
HOW DOES IT WORK? A Wood’s lamp is a small handheld device that uses transillumination - black light to illuminate areas of your skin. The light is held over an area of skin in a darkened room. The presence of certain bacteria or fungi, or changes in the pigmentation of your skin as well as texture will cause the affected area of your skin to change colour under the light.
•
Erythrasma: corynebacteria bacteria cause a pigmented rash in skin folds
•
Pseudomonas in spa pool folliculitis and wound infection
•
Acne, seborrhoea and comedones
•
Dehydration areas of the skin
•
Thick corneum layers
•
Hydrated skin
Partnering with these findings, there are several traditional as well as new technologies that can allows us to evaluate and support our findings. In recent times we have had several enquiries about credible supporting tools to help with skin assessment, as well as evaluating the progress of treatment and product use. So, in this article we will review various technologies.
What conditions can be diagnosed using a Woods Lamp and what can they reveal? •
Increase in pigmentation (e.g. melasma, postinflammatory pigmentation) to determine
APJ 90
WHAT DO I NEED TO KNOW WHEN USING IT? To get the maximum benefit when using a Woods lamb
follow the manufacturers guidelines. However, key factors to remember are:
1. The skin must not have been recently excessively cleansed. This is because to gain a true skin assessment the skin must be allowed to manifest in is natural condition. It is therefore not advisable to examine the skin if it has been recently washed or has any makeup, deodorant or moisturising cream applied as the fluorescent light can cause a false reading. 2. Room lights must be turned off and any window shades, or black drape used to darken the surroundings completely otherwise the Woods lamp will not be able to give you an accurate reading. 3. The lamp is turned on and after a few minutes, held about 10-30 cm away from the skin. The examination is painless and safe with just a slight warmth on the skin due to the lamp. A Wood lamp is used to identify the extent of pigmented, or depigmented patches and to detect fluorescence. When it comes to pigmentation a Woods lamp has the capacity to also identify pigmentation that has not manifested on the surface of the skin yet. The advantage of this is that it will allow you to start immediate action to mitigate the problem before it becomes a manifested condition. An examination with a Woods lamp will allow you to identify this. WHAT DO THE VARIOUS COLOURS INDICATE? Each manufacturer will provide you with the appropriate colour guide on how the various colours interpret the state of the skin. However, here is a basic guide:
1. Blue-white – normal healthy skin 2. White spots – dead cells and thick cornified layer 3. Purple fluorescent – think skin without enough moisture 4. Brown – pigmentation 5. Light violet – dehydrated skin 6. Bright fluorescent – hydrated skin 7. Yellow or pink – oily, seborrhoea or comedones CAPABILITIES AND LIMITATIONS While the Woods lamp can allow you to access an in-depth and accurate view of the skin, unless this technology is incorporate into a sophisticate model, it does not allow you to show your client an objective view of their skin’s condition. It also will not allow you to show them how their skin is progressively improving from your treatments and by using the recommended products. COMPUTERISED SKIN ANALYSING DEVICES The next-generation skin analysing devices are more sophisticated and have additional capabilities taking the diagnosis one step further. Many of these devices utilise software to capture incredible detail. Here is some of the areas they can provide you with amazing benefits:
1. Full image that can be stored While many achieve their diagnosis utilising UV and polarised light similar to a Woods lamp, they often incorporate high-resolution cameras with multi-sensor capabilities to capture the diagnosis and store the image so that you can show it to your client. This allows you to provide them with evidence of their
condition and then educate them with their best choices in terms of treatment to address them. It also allows you to show them the progressive changes to their skin throughout their treatment journey. 2. Accurate treatment plan Once you have identified the underlying problems, the therapist can more accurately determine the best treatment plan that can control, or reverse the problem based on the evidence that the diagnosis has validated and of course, their scope of practice. 3. Determining the correct skincare It is so much easier to promote a product, or a range of products if you can validate to the client where the deficiencies lie and match the products they will need to the specific needs. Some of the more advanced versions of these devices also allow you to incorporate the skincare within the diagnostic capabilities of the device so that it can automatically identify the appropriate product for the specific skin condition. These capabilities have the capacity to help improve sales, because you are showing the client not telling them. There are several devices available on the market today. ClinicalPro offer the A-ONE Smart System. It provides a simple automatic analysis with one click, takes three photos with Normal, UV and Polarised light, eight integrated skin analysis capabilities with a high-resolution camera with multisensor. It can measure pigmentation, pores, wrinkles, sebum, moisture, elasticity, skin tone and skin temperature. It utilises automatic recognition of eyes, nose, mouth and eyebrows and automatic separate of U-zone and T-zone. The Clairderm Skin Analyser is available through Clairderm Medical Aesthetics. This device provides quick and efficient diagnostic capabilities within the epidermis and dermis. RGB Pore, RGB Spot and RGB Wrinkle Spectrum combines red, green and blue wavelengths of natural light to analyse and diagnose skin conditions. It will identify pore congestion, wrinkle formation, fine-line distribution, skin micro-relief and loss of collagen. The PL Spectrum uses polarised light to diagnose skin conditions such as acne, skin texture, rosacea, skin sensitivity, thinning areas of the skin, pigmentation, UV damage, moisture levels, vascular conditions and dehydration. The Observ from the Global Beauty Group is also a popular skin analysing system that offers six comprehensive observation modes to view and analyse the skin from the deepest layers right through to the surface. It also allows the therapist to interact the results effectively with the client, supported by a clearly defined visual evidence, which is a great way to build trust and rapport during a client consultation, allowing the therapist to guide the client through the treatment stages with ease. APJ IN CONCLUSION If you are seeking a supportive technology in analysing the skin, there are many options available to you with the ones mention above as some recommendations. While the Woods lamp is usually under $100, the more sophisticated one can cost several thousands of dollars, however, they do provide a lot more features, giving you the ability to communicate your findings with your client quickly and easily. If increasing sales is your ultimate objective then, the skin analyser is your best options, however, if you just want to determine what is happening into the skin, then the Woods lamp may suffice. It all comes down to what are your most important objectives.
APJ 91
SOCIALMEDIA
SM HAS COME-OF-AGE AND IT REQUIRES
SOCIAL MEDIA EDUCATION Trish Hammond FEATURING YOUR BUSINESS using social media tools is fast becoming the preferred medium for smaller and larger businesses in retaining and gaining new clients. The reason for this is that it has a low-cost outlay with campaigns to suit all budgets, the ability to reach a huge audience and target the right consumer base at the right time. More importantly - it works. There is, however, a bit of a knack to it. Understanding how social media works can help you get the most bang for your buck. On the other hand, if you are not skilled in what works, you can waste a lot of time and get very little return.
business to jump on the social media bandwagon and take control of their own advertising.
Advertising through mediums such as Facebook, Instagram and other social media channels can be extremely effective, and fast. For example, Facebook has a HUGE audience potential for your business to tap into - and not only that, the ability to target those clients that are specifically looking for the product or service you are offering based on demographics, interests, location and other nuances of the Facebook user.
As social media platforms become more crowded, what will make you stand-out rather than blend with the all-familiar messages of your competition vying for the same clients as you? How can you design and articulate your point-ofdifference?
So, what is your aim? No doubt you want your products and/ or services to come up in every Facebook user’s feed who might be specifically searching for, or even casually interested in them. You want people to click on your posts and business appearing in their feeds before they even know they like them! So, how do you do that? There are plenty of people promoting their online marketing “expertise” however not all of them will help you convert your audience to client growth and client spend. Advertising through social media is actually something businesses can do for themselves once they understand how it works, so getting the right social media message the first time can be an extremely smart investment that will allow a APJ 92
While there are a lot of gurus out there, it is also import to understand that every country has its own culture and the consumer approach may need to be very different depending on the cultural nuances. For example, the Australian marketing message requires a different approach to the American – while some approaches can be universal, others need to be communicated differently in order to better relate and be accepted by the Australian consumer.
THERE IS A SOLUTION Our Social Aesthetic Training Hub was created specifically for this purpose. Sick and tired of seeing new social media users get taken for a ride and not get the results they should, has prompted us to introduce a mentoring business to help businesses master the skill for a more strategic training approach that gives expert advice to help businesses convert their social media advertising spend to customer buying dollars. APJ If you would like to learn more please contact Trish Hammond on 0429 264 811. www.plasticsurgeryhub.com.au info@plasticsurgeryhub.com.au
NEW EXTEND YOUR KNOWLEDGE IN THE SAFE USE OF TOPICAL ANAESTHETICS
ADVANCED COURSE: SAFE USE OF TOPICAL ANAESTHETICS Part 2
If you have completed the Introduction to the Safe Use of Topical Anaesthetics Part 1: You can now attend the ADVANCED COURSE: Safe use of Topical Anaesthetics Part 2 presented by Chris Testa Compounding Chemist. This course picks up from the introductory course and delivers more in-depth education on both the chemistry and practical protocols. This course is allowing us to move forward towards the regulatory process for nonmedical practitioners applying topical anaesthetics. Course outline includes: 1. Regulatory overview 2. Patient evaluation protocols 3. Selection the right formula for your treatment requirements 4. Safety considerations 5. The latest case studies Training Date: Monday October 14th Location: APAN Head Office - Unit 7D, 76-84 Robina Town Centre Drive, Robina Cost: $395 Course includes training manual, meals and Certificate of Professional Development
REGISTER NOW Phone 07 55930360 or visit www.apanetwork.com
APJ 93
STUDENTPROFILE
TWO RISING STARS An interview with Marie Usui and Katelyn McLean MOST DELEGATES WHO attend our conference events are seasoned business owners and professionals. They come expecting high quality education to expand their knowledge and to gain insight on new advances in technologies, scientific developments, regulatory updates and business strategies. However, this year at our Gold Coast Conference we had the privilege of interviewing two incredible young ladies who are students. We were delighted to catch up with them and we were so impressed with their passion for learning. These girls are the leaders of the future and we would like to share with you some of the highlights of our discussion. Both students are studying the SHB60118 – ADVANCED DIPLOMA OF INTENSE PULSED LIGHT AND LASER FOR HAIR REDUCTION at Beauty Therapy Training Australia (BTTA) located in Tweed, south of the Gold Coast under the directorship of Angela Todd who is the principal of BTTA – a registered training organisation. MARIE USUI Marie Usui is an international student from Japan. Having completed a Diploma of Beauty Therapy Diploma in Japan she applied to Steiner and was accepted to work on a cruise ship. Steiner offers cruise ship positions, recruitment and training for spa, beauty, and massage therapists, fitness instructors, acupuncturists, hairdressers as well as nail technicians. This was a great opportunity for Marie to develop her skills and she worked as a beauty therapist on one of their cruise ships for two years. From there, she was able to secure a position as a salon manager. This allowed her to also develop her leadership skills and she worked in this position for five years. However, Marie was restless and she was not content to stay
APJ 94
at this level. “When I was working on my skin treatments, I soon realised that my qualification as a Beauty Therapist did not give me all the answers,” Marie said. “As the years progressed, I also realised that my clients were not satisfied with basic results, they wanted more – they were seeking for more advanced outcomes from my treatments, but my knowledge was limited and I soon realised I could not really deliver the outcomes they were seeking. “I became very aware how this industry was so rapidly advancing and I soon realised that if I was to be honest, I had to accept the fact that I needed to invest in more advanced education. While there are many ways to enhance my knowledge, however, I wanted to pursue an advanced qualification that would give me a sound education so that I could expoand my scope of practice. I am so thrilled I am doing this course,” Marie confirmed. “I believe it was a good decision to have chosen to do the SHB60118 qualification, because it is exactly what I needed. Angela is so knowledgeable and I am learning so much from her. I am so impressed with what can be achieved with light-based technologies and in working interchangeably with the various devices. Angela is very generous with her education and she doesn’t hesitate to teach me extra information. “The other exciting thing”, Marie said, “is that as an international student, I am able to work up to 20 hours a week. I was able to secure a position with an Endoda spa and this has been amazing in helping me to continue to grow my experience.” We asked Marie, how did she find the conference. “I thoroughly enjoyed it. What an incredible range of diverse topics and information that were covered - it was almost overwhelming and it made me realise the extent and variety of modalities this industry has to offer and the opportunities available through this
profession - there is always so much to learn,” Marie declared with excitement. So, what is next for Marie? “When I return to Japan, I cannot wait to put to practice everything I have learned. I know have a greater understanding on how to achieve better results”, Marie confirmed. KATELYN MCLEAN Katelyn McLean is also studying the SHB60118 – ADVANCED DIPLOMA OF INTENSE PULSED LIGHT AND LASER FOR HAIR REDUCTION at BTTA and she and Marie have become great friends. Katelyn is actually a local - she is not an overseas student. However, many of her reasons for advancing her knowledge mirror those of Marie’s. She is passionate about enhancing her qualifications and is also enjoying the bonus skills in skin rejuvenation and pigmentation which she is gaining with the use of IPL, as well as hair reduction. Katelyn has previously worked in a salon for one year, after completing her Beauty Therapy Diploma. How did Katelyn find the conference? “I have to say I was humbled to meet such extraordinary people and to gain so much knowledge from the various speakers. I had the best time and I learned so much,” Katelyn said. “I loved all the speakers and got so much from each one of them. The next day we also attend Dr Tiina Meder’s training and that was a real eye opener,” she exclaimed. “When I finish my studies, I am so excited to go back into a salon or clinic, because I will be able to give them so much more than before, with my new level of knowledge,” she confirmed.
“I am learning so much! I am so excited to be doing this course, it has truly been an amazing experience and it has also been a great opportunity to grow, as well as also meet some great international students. “The statistic clearly state that consumers today have difference expectations to what they did a few years ago. It is so important to me to advance my education and I am really enjoying increasing my knowledge and expanding the scope of what I can now do,” Katelyn said. What was amazing about both these two young ladies was their hunger for knowledge and their incredible appreciation to be able to expand this through formal education. They both have aspirations for becoming the best that they can be. Moving back into an academic environment is making them realise the endless possibilities this industry can offer them and they are thrilled they are doing this the right way ensuring that their knowledge is credible and complete, as compromising on standards is not an option for them. We were delighted to have met and engage with Marie and Katelyn. Their enthusiasm and their hunger for learning is admirable and we are sure they will both become shining stars within our industry. We also commend Angela Todd for being an inspiration to them and mentoring them to attend the conference and expand their understanding of how the industry is evolving and what lies ahead for them. APJ If you would like further information on advancing your qualifications please feel free to contact Angela Todd at Beauty Therapy Training Australia on Ph: (07) 5599 5568 or visit beautytherapytraining.com.au
APJ 95
STARPERFORMER
CLAIRDERM SKIN ANALYSER
CHANGE THE FUTURE OF YOUR SKIN
Effective customised skin management, superior results and client satisfaction made easy!
ONE OF THE SECRETS to beautiful, healthy skin is a skin management plan that effectively “Repairs the past, treats the present and protects the future”. This can only be achieved if the overall health of the skin, both inside and out, is completely understood. The surface appearance of the skin only tells half
the story. It’s what the eyes cannot see that we also need to be concerned about primarily because many of the skin conditions that negatively impact the skin’s health originate from the deeper layers. SEEING IS BELIEVING A holistic, customised approach to skin management and effective client engagement are essential for a skin treatment plan that really works. The CLAIRDERM SKIN ANALYSER is packed full of technologically advanced features that will do just that in under 60 seconds. The HD camera and lens are designed to ensure that aesthetic professional can conduct a superior skin analysis of both the epidermis and dermis layers of the skin. In addition, the 3-spectrums ensure an in-depth diagnosis of 10 different skin conditions. The RGB Pore, Spot and Wrinkle Spectrum combine red, green and blue wavelengths of natural light to analyse and diagnose epidermal skin conditions. These include pore size and congestion, surface acne distribution, wrinkle formation, fine line distribution and collagen loss. The PL Spectrum uses polarised light to optimise image clarity and analyse and diagnose epidermal skin conditions like skin texture, areas of keratinisation, sensitivity, irritation, inflammation, pigmentation and skin thinning. The UV Spectrum uses skin fluorescence technology to expose the skin cells to 365nm UV light. The cells emit this light in unique colours and patterns, depending on the skin’s condition. This ensures a variety of dermis skin conditions can be identified with unparalleled clarity and contrast. These include the depth and distribution of pigmentation, UV sun damage, the location and density of
APJ 96
Phorphyrin in acne and comedones, the level of hydration and vascular condition of the skin. Furthermore, not only does the Clairderm Skin Analyser make treatment recommendations, post analysis and diagnosis, based on the clinic’s range of products and treatment menu, it also conducts a comparative analysis of the treatment results over time. This clearly shows clients the progressive improvement in their skin’s condition. Undoubtedly, they will see that their skin management plan is really working.
The practitioner can share this information with their clients, as well as any clinic promotions, making it a superb marketing tool. In addition, it also offers superior design features, it is compact and lightweight (6.5kg) and manufactured from environmentally-friendly, medical Grade ABS with a soft silicone chin rest. It has a multi-directional, 10-inch HD touch display screen, a retractable hood, an adjustable base and automatic skin analysis area adjustment as well as a 64G storage facility, automatic updates with the added benefit that no separate IPAD is needed. APJ Visit Clairderm Medical Aesthetics at stand E110, Beauty Expo Australia Sydney, for a personal demonstration of this amazing device. For more information contact Clairderm Medical Aesthetics on 1300 781 239 or email office@clairderm.com or visit www.clairderm.com
APJ 97
INGREDIENT CHEMISTRY
THE INCREDIBLE CAPABILITIES OF HYALURONIC ACID IN IMPROVING AGEING SKIN Tina Viney
WHEN IT COMES TO IMPROVING THE ANTI-AGEING effect of the skin there are two components that we need to examine closely and understand and that is peptides and hyaluronic acids. Both these are readily available when the body is young, but substantially diminish as we age. In this article I will focus more on hyaluronic acid and review new research information that will validate some of the information we know, but also challenge us and bring us upto-date with some new discoveries. The most dramatic histochemical change observed in the ageing skin is the marked disappearance of epidermal hyaluronic acid (HA), while HA is still present in the dermis. The reasons for this change in HA homeostasis with ageing is unknown. What we do know is that the synthesis of epidermal HA is influenced by the underlying dermis and is under separate controls from the synthesis of dermal HA. Progressive reduction of the size of the HA polymers in skin as a result of ageing has also been reported in studies. Thus, the epidermis loses the principle molecule responsible for binding and retaining water molecules, resulting in loss of skin moisture. In the dermis, the major age-related change is the increasing avidity of HA with tissue structures with the naturally accompanying loss of HA being extracted. This parallels the progressive cross-linking of collagen and the steady loss of collagen that occurs with age. All of the above age-related phenomena contribute to the apparent dehydration, atrophy and loss of elasticity that characterises aged skin. Premature ageing of skin is the result of repeated and extended exposure to UV radiation. Test confirm that approximately 80% of facial skin ageing is attributed to UV exposure. UV radiation damage causes initially a mild form of wound healing and is associated at first with an increase of dermal HA. One studied confirmed that this can happen in as little as a five- minute exposure of UV indicating that UV radiation induced skin damage is an extremely rapid event. The initial redness of the skin following exposure to APJ 98
UV radiation may be due to a mild oedema induced by the enhanced HA deposition and histamine release. Repeated and extensive exposures to UV ultimately simulate a typical wound healing response with deposition of scar-like type I collagen, rather than the usual types I and III collagen mixture that gives skin resilience and pliability. In the skin, photo-ageing results in abnormal GAG content and distribution compared with that found in scars, or in the wound healing response, with diminished HA and increased levels of chondroitin sulphate proteoglycans. In dermal fibroblasts this reduction in HA synthesis is attributed to collagen fragments, which activate αvβ3integrins and in turn inhibit Rho kinase signalling and nuclear translocation of phosphoERK, resulting in reduced HAS-2 expression. HOW PHOTOAGEING DIFFERS FROM NATURAL AGEING Studies have recently unravelled some of the biochemical changes that may distinguish photo-ageing and natural ageing. Using photo-exposed and photo-protected human skin tissue specimens, obtained from the same patient, scientists discovered a significant increase in the expression of HA of lower molecular mass in photo-exposed skin, as compared with photo-protected skin. This increase of degraded HA was associated with a significant decrease in the expression of HAS-1 and an increased expression of HYAL-1, -2 and -3. Furthermore, the expression of HA receptors CD44 and RHAMM was significantly downregulated in photo-exposed, as compared with photo-protected skin. These findings indicate that photo-exposed skin, and therefore extrinsic skin ageing, is characterised by distinct homeostasis of HA. On the other hand, when scientists assessed photo-protected skin tissue specimens from adults and juvenile patients they observed that the intrinsic skin ageing was associated with a significant reduction in the content of HA and down regulation of HAS-1, HAS -2, CD44 and RHAMM. Similar results
for photo-protected skin have also been reported for both genders for HA, HAS-2 and CD44. THE CONTROVERSY ABOUT MOLECULAR WEIGHT IN HA Molecular weight has become one of the most confusing components regarding HA. While different weights are functional within the skin, it is important to ascertain how the skin, as an organ, utilises or functions when present. One important function of HA is to provide both structure and regulation. Controlling the integrity of tissues, cellular inflammatory responses as well as recognising smaller fragmented HA is part of the cell’s regulatory role. This regulatory component is constantly working towards homeostasis. When inflammation occurs, cells are immediately triggered to respond. The production of increased HA has to keep pace with the degradation and turnover; otherwise, unwanted skin conditions occur. LOW MOLECULAR WEIGHT Low molecular weight HA is considered to be 20 kDa. Research has shown that this weight inhibits lipid peroxidation and has superior radical scavenging activity. It is also found to be pro-inflammatory and is associated with premature ageing. Other research reports that low molecular weight HA has the ability to increase fibrosis and is found to cause cancer cells to hijack other cells for the purpose of growth, invasion and metastatic spread. However, the low molecular weight HA of 50 kDa is considered to be safe. HIGH MOLECULAR WEIGHT High molecular weight HA is considered to be over 800 kDa and is shown to be space filling. It is hydrating and inhibits the production of new blood vessels (anti-angiogenic) and can mediate tumour resistance. The degradation of HA into smaller fragments is called fragmented HA. This event usually occurs after an injury where reactive oxygen damage is present or when low levels of pH occur on the skin (chemical peels with micro-needling). It is often considered that if the molecular weight of HA is high it can only act as a protective barrier as it cannot penetrate the skin, however, new studies are confirming that HA is able to penetrate the skin regardless of its molecular weight. The findings of this study suggest that HA has the ability to penetrate through the epidermis passively, but may be facilitated by active transport, so the carrier in which it is delivered is therefore important. On the other hand, if you are using technology to enhance penetration, you will need to consider the molecular weight of the HA and what are you trying to achieve within the skin. This is supported by studies which confirm that dermal absorption can occur based on carriers, penetration enhancers and molecular size. As HA is considered reputable and validated through evidence-based science it is popping up in many cheap on-line products. However, just because a small amount is included in a product just so that it is considered as its “claim to fame”, does not mean that it has the capacity to deliver skin enhancing benefits. It is important that you educate your clients about this as there are many misconceptions out there. WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN INJECTABLE HA AND TOPICAL APPLICATION? When used through injectable fillers the HA used in this treatment is more expensive because a stabilising component through crosslinking has been added. It is important to note that cosmeceuticals that are topically applied do not add this component to their products, resulting in HA lasting less than
a day in the skin. Therefore, some professionals are resorting to micro-needling modalities to apply topical HA into the skin to provide increased trans-dermal delivery. However this activity produces yet another problem. It is important to note that during micro-needling, HA is degraded by the needles and the natural enzymes within a day or two because it triggers an enzyme called hyaluronidase. This enzyme breaks down the hyaluronic acid. In addition to this trigger, large molecular weight HA promotes cellular signals through their receptors to then regulate inflammation and tissue repair. BIOACTIVE PEPTIDES AS A NATURAL SOLUTION TO HA AND BEYOND Bioavailable peptides are a viable solution to produce HA naturally. Peptides, if bioavailable, are able to encourage HA production in the ECM through hyaladherins. Hyaladherins are proteins or peptides that function as cell communicators. These hyaladherins are capable of binding to hyaluronic acid, providing cellular adhesion. Hyaladherins are similar to adherins, which are the structures essential for the development of connective tissues and they therefore provide structure and hydration to the skin. Additionally, bioavailable peptides have the ability to attach to the cell’s receptor site. As natural cell communicators, peptides can signal the cell to perform a very particular function. In this case, the signal or message would be to synthesise hyaluronic acid. During the biofeedback loop, homeostasis involves, recognising the smaller hyaluronic acid fragments (by-products of degradation of the large native molecules) as distress signals and the need to create more normal hyaluronic acid. The most dramatic changes in ageing skin is the marked disappearance of epidermal hyaluronic acid. This provides a significant opportunity for the use of bioactive peptides without disrupting the homeostasis, the cellular structure and regulation. I have to say that peptides are one of the best ingredients that we should seek to understand as they can not only enhance HA naturally, but also have a wide range of effects
APJ 99
(distributed in Australia through Spectrum Science and Beauty). An article, featuring this protocol was featured in the Autumn issue of APJ Volume 40: pages 20-21. This treatment was the result of 10 years of research and is based on specific peptides that have neuromodulating effect. These were identified as: •
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8;
•
Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 (Argirelyne);
•
Leuphasyl (Pentapeptide-3, Vialox);
•
Syn-Ake (Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl) benzylaminide diacetate);
•
SNAP-8 (Acetyl Octapeptide-8) and a few others.
It is interesting to note that both HA and peptides can be some of the most amazing ingredients we can use. They are biomimetic in that they are both readily available in our bodies, so when used topically, the body will recognise them with less chance of allergic reactions. Furthermore, both HA and peptides often work synergistically together providing a real boost to skin improvement. APJ on the skin’s structure. For example, the neuromodulating ones have the capacity to block the impulse transmission from the nerve fibres to the muscles, thus relaxing wrinkles and this can be achieved just through their topical application, not through injections. Botulinum toxin generally works in the same way: it blocks the transfer of the signal towards a facial muscle, stopping it from contracting which makes the wrinkles disappear. However, when applied topically they need to be applied to the exact spot that connects the muscle to the skin. A very novel treatment that delivers such results has been developed by Dr Tiina Meder called the Myo-Fix
APJ 100
IN CONCLUSION Each year new studies provide us with updated information. Some will support what we already know, while others will disprove previously thought. As it is well known, scientific knowledge in our industry doubles every 18 months. It pays to be updated, as with research information so readily available, you don’t want to find that your client is more up-todate with the latest data than you are. It goes without saying, staying current with your knowledge and education is vital.
For a list of references, please contact the editor.
The Highest Professional Standards now has a New Name As the Aesthetics industry continues to advance so has the need to identify its leading practitioners through a new Standards Recognition Registration Classification.
APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERÂŽ (ARAP)
Is the new industry Registration. Applicants will be assessed on their qualifications, knowledge, skills and standards. Industry professionals are invited to apply for Registration. There are five Registration Classifications:
] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Clinician ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Associate ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Master Educator ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Educator
AP
APAN
PRACTITIO N
AN
AESTHET IC
ER
ED
S
REGISTE R
Who can apply:
ARAP
Dermal Clinicians Dermal Therapists Cosmetic Nurses Skin Therapists Aesthetic Practitioners Educators A Quality Assurance Officer will assess each application on their qualifications and merits and determine eligibility.
APPLY TODAY For further information visit www.apanetwork.com and complete an ARAP Online Application Form. If you require further details please phone APAN 07 5593 0360.
APJ 101
MEMBERPROFILE
EDUCATIONAL INNOVATION
Bridging the Gap between Healthcare and Aesthetic Practitioners An interview with Nancy Abdou
NANCY ABDOU is a highly committed and creative educator in the aesthetics and dermal realm. Her passion lies in training professionals from various sectors of the industry, to achieve leading outcomes through individual and combination therapies through the use of advanced technologies. Nancy is the principal of THE ADVANCED DERMAL AND LASER INSTITUTE (TADLI) and as an APAN member, we are delighted to share her incredible story. APJ Q1: NANCY HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN INVOLVED IN THIS INDUSTRY AND HOW DID YOU GET STARTED OUT? My interest in skin therapies is a very personal one. I was born and suffered with eczema for many years, so finding a solution for this condition always interested me. I am one of three sisters who all pursued to advance our education: I completed a Bachelor of Education with a science major, my sister Nevine, completed a Health Science Degree and my younger sister Nelly, completed a Masters in Psychology. As sisters, we are a very close-knit family and we always shared our knowledge with each other. Approximately 15 years ago I decided to invest in an IPL machine and train in hair reduction. Through this experience we saw a great opportunity to explore this as a profession and so we embarked on further education and I completed several laser and skin courses to enhance my knowledge, while Nevine went on to study dermal therapies. Together the three of us started a business which expanded to 12 locations. Nevine and I took care of developing the educational program to also include dermal therapies and our younger sister Nelly, was in charge of staff and human APJ 102
resource management. Meanwhile, our educational journey has never stopped. We eventually sold these businesses and established the training institution which is known as THE ADVANCED DERMAL AND LASER INSTITUTE (TADLI). APJ Q2: WHERE DO YOU VIEW THE ROLE OF TADLI AS A TRAINING INSTITUTION, WHO IS YOR TYPICAL STUDENT AND WHAT DO THEY HOPE TO ACHIEVE FROM YOUR TRAINING? We have a very clear mission – to raise the standard of skin technology education and bridge the gap between skin, beauty, dermal and healthcare practitioners, ensuring an integrated approach. We believe that the more aligned we are as an industry we will reflect a more credible reputation as a profession to the consumer. We believe that through credible education we can better establish a more collaborative approach with the medical profession and other healthcare practitioners. We train everyone from manufacturers, dermatologists, nurses, beauty therapists and everyone in-between. We usually train one-on-one and we specialise in bespoke training that includes the effective use of combination technologies. From our experience, there is a real need for this. Most suppliers will train you on how to use individual technologies on-label, however, they often don’t train you on the most effective way to integrate various technologies and the most successful protocols to achieve the best results for various skin conditions. Gaining this knowledge also gives the practitioner and business the best return on investment. There is a real gap in this area of training and this is what we specialise in. We understand that manufacturers are not
permitted to speak and train off-label as their insurance does not cover them for that. Their scope is to train people to learn the most effective way to use their individual devices. We are currently working with over nine manufacturers in delivering the appropriate training for their clients. Much of out training is provided in-house and we delivered personalised training to achieve safe and efficacious treatment outcomes to qualified professionals who are expanding their device modalities. APJ Q3: WHAT MODALITIES DO YOU DELIVER TRAINING IN? We train everything from IPLs and a variety of lasers, Radiofrequency, LED, Cryolipolisis, HIFU, Plasma fibroblast, Skin needling, Laser carbon facial, Low-level laser therapy, Tattoo removal and Epiblading, as well as successful combination therapies. APJ Q4: WHAT ASPECT OF YOUR WORK DO YOU ENJOY THE MOST AND WHY? For me, it’s not about money. By far, the most rewarding feeling is to watch others succeed. In my own practice I used to do 10 to 12 treatments a day. Over the years I have gained a great deal of experience and knowledge. My scientific background also allows me to take the science and bring it across to improve clinical outcomes. Sharing my knowledge allows me to see others gain confidence and go back to their practice and achieve wonderful treatment outcomes.
treatments that will allow you to grow your business. Sharing my knowledge and seeing others improve their confidence is the best feeling. I always say that our industry is not about beauty – it ultimately is about confidence. APJ Q5: DO YOU PARTNER WITH OTHER COMPANIES AND TRAINING INSTITUTIONS AND HOW ARE YOU A SUPPORT TO THEM? We work with several manufacturers and suppliers who direct their clients to us to train them on both their machines, as well as deliver a sound scientific understanding of the science behind the devices they are using. We also deliver training for registered training institutions in various modalities and in the areas that we specialise in. APJ Q6: WHAT IS YOUR VISION FOR THE FUTURE? Our vision is to become a one-stop-destination for professionals who wish to learn how to get the most from their various devices by combining them to achieve advanced treatment outcomes. We strongly believe that the integrated approach will allow current and future treatment outcomes to be able to deliver substantially more advanced results, bringing them to a whole new level. However, this approach must be based on solid scientific principles, both of the skin, as well as the physics behind the various technologies. APJ If you would like to speak to Nancy Abdou or need further information on TADLI please contact her on 0421 333 884 or visit www.dermalandlaser.com.au
This is so important if you wish to achieve credible and safe APJ 103
PERSONALDEVELOPMENT
HOW TO ACHIEVE
CREATIVE SELF-EVALUATION Tina Viney
MANY BUSINESS OWNERS within our industry don’t have the support of a skilled and capable Board of Directors for guidance and direction, yet running a business requires constant reviews of what is happening to you and to your business in order that you can make the necessary adjustments to move the business forward. In my experience I have found that creative self-evaluation is one of the most important steps to gaining an intelligent understanding of what is happening to you and to your business, and it is one of the most effective stress-busters. Knowing what is really going on in your life and your business is empowering, because it can allow you to eliminate what is not working for you and plan your strategy for growth by strengthening and investing more fully in what is working. So, to help those multi-tasking business owners, I have compiled a few useful strategies on how to achieve this process, through effective and creative self-evaluation:
1. REVIEW The first step is to take a few moments out to step back and take a closer look at what is really happening in your world. You can do this by taking some time out. You should select this to be when your mind is the most productive – for some this can be first-thing in the morning, while for others it may be at night when everyone has gone to sleep and you can get some peace and quiet. When reviewing and analysing an aspect of your business, to avoid becoming overwhelmed, it is important that you, breakup the steps into bite sizes. You may wish to start with the type of treatments you are delivering and consider a more in-depth
APJ 104
look at how the business is evolving. Some people think this is hard, so they often delegate this task to someone else. Self-evaluation is challenging because you’re so close to your work. It’s tricky to separate the inner coach from the player. But I have a few suggestions to make evaluating your own work easier and less subjective. Use the imagery technique: In this method, you walk yourself through the evaluation process by imagining the questions and the expectations that others may be requiring of you. Then answer those questions. This will allow you to measure what you are currently doing and whether you are meeting those needs. Here’s a closer look at this strategy: • Imagine your audience: Who are you speaking to or servicing? Peers? Clients? Partners? •
Document how your communication unfolds: This will allow you to objectively evaluate and review this process. What do you believe is not really working and what can you improve?
•
Then consider to update on how to communicate better. Re-label and title what you are offering. Pretend to be the client and try and review what they are hearing from their perspective, therapist, then change the narrative and add more compelling information that is fresh and new. Ask yourself – “how would I feel if someone presented this service to me in these terms?”
•
Identify and improve both what you are offering and how you are communicating: Remember, evaluation can sometimes be exhausting because you are pursuing to create changes.
•
Recognise your achievements: Once you have devised a new way of improving what you are doing take a few moments to be grateful and be proud of this accomplishment.
2. PLAN The next step is to map out and plan your course of action. On a macro-level, planning is when you do all of your research and then establish a strategy on how the change will actually manifest in your life or your business. Unless you have a plan, things will only remain as a great idea. They may never manifest into reality and will not contribute to any change or improvement.
3. EXECUTE Taking the plan to the execution stage will require a few considerations. Who will be involved with its execution and will they need training to successfully implement and achieve this? One of the biggest sabotages to the execution of a plan is a lack of timelines. Achieving outcomes can not be left to random timing, they need to be set against timeframes to ensure the plan meets its objectives. For example, if you are going to change elements of your services to new strategies that you believe will offer better outcomes for your treatments, you will need to set a timeframe when you can review and evaluate the outcome of the changes and whether they were able to deliver the desired growth.
4. EVALUATION
executing, but as a general rule, many are terrible at evaluating. It’s so much easier to move on to the next thing than it is to evaluate if what has been executed is working, so you can make any necessary adjustments. We often go to others to get feedback and let other people evaluate for you. Of course, if feedback from others is positive then the project could be considered successful, however, self-evaluation where you will measure outcomes up against the plan may pick up valuable information that may not surface just from general feedback. This method of evaluation is less about evaluating your own work and more about evaluating what success looks like, so that you can better identify it in your own projects. SELF-EXAMINATION At the beginning of this article we talked about the individual who is having to make business decisions without the support of other directors. While it is important to review your projects, it is equally important to also review your own wellbeing. When was the last time you had a general medical check-up? How is your diet serving you? What about your movement and exercise? Are you sleeping well these days? How are you coping well with stress? Let’s face it? Without you there is no business. And others, including your family are relying on you for direction and protection. You owe it to yourself as well to others that are under your care to also monitor and take care of your own wellbeing. After all you are holding all this together and for that reason you have a duty-of-care to the most important person in this equation – YOU. APJ
Many businesses are great at reviewing, planning and APJ 105
MASSAGE
GETTING THE MOST FROM YOUR MASSAGE Is pain needed to get gain? Eva Boyd MOST PEOPLE KNOW me as a naturopath however, I have come from a beauty therapy and massage background and for several years, body treatments and body massage were actually my specialty.
•
Tapotement or rhythmic tapping help to stimulate blood flow at a deeper level
•
Friction movements allow for targeted work on tense areas
In my experience, most people who have regular massages seem to believe that the deeper and the more painful it is the greater the benefits. This notion has also contributed to the development of the deep tissue massage, which is considered more therapeutic. Deep tissue massage is more complex than the standard Swedish massage, it is often painful and for that reason, it has become more popular with the belief that it is doing more for the body.
•
Vibration or Shaking are excellent for supporting lymphatic flow
But the day has come that we now understand that the most popular massage is not necessarily the best massage.
Esalen massage is a soothing massage capable of inducing deep relaxation in the recipient. Using long, graceful strokes to heighten the client's awareness of bodily experiences, the practitioner gives attention to the entire body. The technique predominantly uses effleurage strokes delivered at different depths and with light to medium pressure. It also incorporates some stretching and rocking movements.
I still advocate that deep tissue massage has its place and, at its best, is a wonderful therapy. Many massage educators create whole books, CDs and other continuing education offerings with integrity, expertise and compassion. Deep tissue is well-researched and when well-presented, true deep tissue massage is an essential learning and practice for all massage therapists. However, a great deal, possibly the majority, of deep tissue massage work is not being done or promoted in a way that has intellectual or therapeutic integrity. Businesses that offer massage often present in their treatment menu Swedish massage, as just being a superficial therapy and deep tissue, as the primary alternative, however, in doing so they are setting the stage for a misconception. When presented with the implied question of do you want a superficial massage or a deeper one? How many people would choose superficial? So why is such a statement misleading? It is assumed if you want effective relief from muscle tension, deeper must be better. What this ignores is that Swedish is not a lighter or more superficial massage, although it may be taught as such at many schools. In fact, true Swedish massage has many movements that can offer a variety of benefits. These include: •
Effleurage - these are the sliding or gliding movements to help relax the nerves and stimulate the blood flow
•
Petrissage – following effleurage, petrissage are deeper, kneading movements that are targeted at the muscles
APJ 106
In Australia, massage has been strongly influenced by the lighter, more flowing style of Esalen massage; and so, what is often called Swedish, is often a blend of real Swedish, which was traditionally quite deep work and a combination of the more gentle Esalen style massage.
In fact, you rarely find someone who is taught and practices true Swedish massage these days. Most of what is taught today is Esalen massage. Let’s get back to deep tissue massage. The false assumption underlying bad and common deep tissue work is that to get a great therapeutic effect, the therapist needs to apply a lot of massage pressure. This is false. In fact, it is as naïve as assuming that for music to be effective, it needs to be loud - because the relaxation of muscles is largely not a result of massage pressure; it is the result of the nervous system turning off the message for the muscle to be tight. CONTRIBUTERS TO THE MYTH There are three groups who have been building and furthering this myth and this unhealthy practice. 1. THE CONSUMER: So many athletes and other heavily muscled people believe in no pain, no gain. While adequate pressure is definitely needed for the client to feel well contacted, we now frequently encounter clients who show up requesting as much pressure as we can give, sometimes even boasting, “You can’t hurt me!” as if that were a good thing. These people, either by word-of-mouth, or through past massage experience when have perhaps experienced an ineffectual lighter and less confident, or anatomically precise
massage, may have come be believe that the lack of pressure was the problem.
relax more with more pressure is actually incorrect. The truth is, muscles relax more when the nervous system tells them to.
The fact is, however, what is needed, whether we are working lightly or deeply, is more intelligence, more sensitivity, more anatomical clarity, and therefore generally less force. Substituting force for intelligence whether it be in warfare or health care, is generally a bad idea.
Now, that does involve respectfully responding to the conscious expectations of the client regarding pressure, but it equally involves the knowledge and skill level of the therapist to educate the person both verbally and nonverbally through touch, that their releasing tension from inside out is more effective and longer-lasting than the therapist working from outside in with excessive pressure, while trying to overcome tension with pressure.
2. THE MASSAGE THERAPIST: Many therapists have not had sufficient massage education. They have first learned assumedly lighter work and then, seeing that it may not be very effective, they simply add their own movements. Having taught beauty therapy for many years I have found that often the body massage unit is taught as a less important part of the curriculum with greater emphasis on skin treatment and the other modalities, yet nothing could be further from the truth.
STARTING WITH RELAXATION One of the most important considerations in order to achieve good results is to guide your client to take two to three deep breaths and relax! Educate them to understand that by letting go from inside out is the best thing they can do to gain the most benefit from their massage.
Also, they are responding to the demand for excessively deep work as a matter of economic necessity; i.e., supply meeting demand. Ironically, we see that a few years down the line, after working in private practice or as employees for a while, massage therapists suddenly becoming fascinated with craniosacral work, partly because you do not really have to use a lot of pressure in order to have a deep effect.
What I tried to explain to my clients is that if they are tense, they are actually fighting with me on a nervous and muscular level. However, if they relax, their body will yield to the treatment and I will be able to gain intelligent input to determine the appropriate techniques with just the right amount of pressure, movement and intent to achieve the best possible results for them.
3. THE EMPLOYER: There is a natural tendency to create a menu of services. This doesn’t do justice to the fact that the best therapy is individualised for the client and that the best sessions often may include a variety of modalities, pressures and emphases. The rigidity of therapeutic menus does an injustice to the individuality of clients.
Regardless as to whether you are having a massage for therapeutic purposes, just to relieve tension, or for the relief of any pain, relaxation should be the ultimate outcome for everyone.
NEGATIVE CONSEQUENCES The erroneous belief that pressure is the only option can contribute to several negatives. Here is why: •
Injury: Therapists are injuring themselves, trying to fulfil inappropriate requests for as much pressure as possible.
•
The resultant emphasis on naïve deep tissue is compromising the longevity of the therapists. They can’t maintain that level of pressure for 20 to 40 sessions per week without burning out physically, mentally or emotionally (I have seen this happen many times).
•
Bruising: Some clients are ending up bruised or even injured through the application of excessive force. The body needs to be prepared with appropriate effleurage to help relax the nerves and improve circulation, otherwise the muscles are less prepared and bruising is inevitable.
•
Poor training: The demand for deep tissue massage is, in turn, overly skewing schools’ curricula toward excessive pressure, with overemphasis on depth of the procedure rather than achieve the appropriate outcome for the client. This approach neglects the art and individuality that plays a key role in the best massages.
CONTINUOUS EDUCATION As with every modality, on-going education and skillsdevelopment are key to refining your techniques and delivering a well-executed and empathetic treatment that will achieve the intended result. Practitioners need to refine their anatomical and physiological knowledge and invest in advanced and continuing education. It is also beneficial to join a study group to expand their own knowledge on techniques and ways of achieving excellent outcomes. This will also help to re-energising their enthusiasm for their work. The more your touch is clear and confident, the less you will find yourself substituting force for intelligence. Study more modalities that adhere to this approach. This could include high-quality deep tissue training and other approaches such as Zero Balancing, Deep Massage (Lauterstein Method), shiatsu, polarity, Trager Approach and Hakomi Bodywork - all of which, while contacting structure very clearly, also recognise the importance and skill of contacting the nervous system (energy) as well. If you are a business owner who wants to grow and refine your massage services, I encourage you to move away from fixed menus that rigidly define what the client will get. Instead, refer to the massage as a customised services, designed to address the individual wellness needs.
When examining the facts, it is quite evident that there is a real need for re-education to dismiss the myth that a deep massage is the only one that works. This education needs to start from the trainers and extend to the business owners and then the public.
On the other hand, encourage your massage therapists to creatively meet the unique needs of the individual client. If possible, give them enough time to take a meaningful history and discuss the clients’ needs, so they can appropriately individualise their treatments.
UNDERSTANDING THE ORIGIN OF TENSION The most important piece of information that we need to understand and promote is that the change in tension levels in the body is something caused by changes in the nervous system, not by changes in soft tissues, and this is now supported by studies. The belief, however, is that muscles
With research evidence we now have, we need to move beyond the belief that deep means effective, while less-deep means superficial. Changing this perspective will help create a future in which the best possible results of massage therapy are realised and that can only be good for the clients, the business and the therapists alike. APJ
APJ 107
CONFERENCE
COSMEDICON launches its second conference Terry Everitt AFTER THE SUCCESSFUL inaugural conference in 2018, Cosmedicon came back bigger and better in 2019. Once again held at the Intercontinental Hotel in Sydney’s Double Bay, Cosmedicon showed how a conference should be run. produced by the Bella Media team led by Michelle Kearney, the conference organiser and assisted by Bill Dunk, who oversees the fine collection of exhibitors. Cosmedicon provides a solid scientific program along with workshops for medical practitioners in cosmetic medicine. This unique boutique conference really allows networking, mentoring and sharing of experience from some of the best, both locally and internationally. Attendees are not all medical doctors, however. While Cosmedicon is not open to everyone, nurses, practice managers and some staff attend, along with the cutting edge of clinical aestheticians. There were so many highlights from the presenters that included Dr’s John Flynn, Neal Hamilton, Niamh Corduff, Cath Porter, Anh Nguyen, Joseph Hkeik, Steven Liew, Doug Grose among the local cast. Internationally, Dr’s Judith Hellman, Patrick Bitter, Konstantin Sulamanidze, Ben Talei, Rassapoom Sumaetheiwit, Hany Abi Ghosn and Glen Calderhead added depth and different perspectives to treatments in their presentations. I was so happy to meet Wendy Lewis who heads Global Aesthetic Consultancy in New York who gave a few presentations, as I have followed her writings for some years now. Perhaps these names may not be familiar to you, yet if you are in the area of cosmetic medicine, then these are some of
APJ 108
the true leaders in the field. To have so many in one place is a major accolade to the success of Cosmedicon and the esteem it already holds in the conference calendar. Four themes each day of the presentations that included Patient safety, Area specific techniques for rejuvenation, Skin and business, Novel use of lasers and energy-based devises, Female issues – each with several speakers presenting on each theme. Sunday changed track and the whole day was devoted to ‘The Business of Beauty’. Again, four themes for the day – Business essentials, Marketing, Day to day business running and ‘The experience is everything – for staff and client’. The presenters, all true experts in their field provided information that filled pages of notes of clear processes to implement and follow along with a multitude of handy hints in how to run your aesthetic business more successfully. For anyone who has an aesthetic business, this day is more than worth the cost. The day is available to attend separate to the conference with a day rate. Cosmedicon has sensibly taken a 15-minute presentation format, so speakers move through the information quickly – no fluff; just the facts that are needed to know. A highlight is always Professor Glen Calderhead from Lutronics in South Korea. What he does not know about light does not exist. A total authority on light-based technology, his presentations are always fact filled and with an explosion of colour and graphics within the power points – it’s a trip just to
see the power points. I really hope he never changes his style. Cosmedicon had a stellar line-up of exhibitors, nothing remotely cheap or nasty here. All exhibitors are ‘top shelf’ equipment suppliers such as High Tech Medical, Merz Aesthetics, Venus Concept, Cutera, Cynosure along with a section of quality skin care such as Synergie, Advanced Cosmeceuticals and Dermocosmetica to name just a few of the Cosmedicon exhibitors. Cosmedicon ensure quality, not quantity for the attendees. On a more social level, the welcome cocktail party, sponsored by Mondeal Aesthetics went on much longer than it should have and the Casino Royal Gala Dinner, sponsored by Mara Aesthetics is the highlight of social sophistication and elegance. Both events totally enjoyed by all who attended. George Bernard Shaw is credited with saying “The biggest problem with communication is the illusion that it has taken place”. APJ At Cosmedicon, there is no illusion – pure, clear communication on cosmetic medicine is abundant and I am so excited to be looking forward to what is coming next year, 5-8th March 2020.
APJ 109
SCIENTIFIC NEWS In each issue of the journal, Terry Everitt conveys a few items of scientific interest. In italics are his thoughts on the subject matter of the research study.
NEURONAL MYELIN SHETHS FROM SKIN CELLS Neurodegenerative diseases like multiple sclerosis (MS) affect millions of people worldwide and occur when parts of the nervous system lose function over time.
Joshi, S., Tandukar, B., Pan, L., Huang, J., Livak, F., Smith, B., Hodges, T., Mahurkar, A., &. Hornyak, T. (2019). CD34 defines melanocyte stem cell subpopulations with distinct regenerative properties. PLOS
Melanocyte stem cells can be harvested in a minimally invasive manner from skin, which is far different to the use of embryonic stem cells, which are frequently used in research. This will allow research to move quicker and hopefully transfer the theoretical animal model to a practical human restorative therapy. APJ
Researchers at the University of Maryland School of Medicine have found a most unlikely stem cell that can help repair the myelin sheath of the nerves cells that cause such neurogenerative diseases. The melanocyte stem cell can continue to divide without limit, which is a trait that is not shared by other cells in the body. Dr. Hornyak's research group was able to isolate this rare population of stem cells using a protein marker that is only found on these specialised cells, which can react differently depending on the type of signals they receive.
Genetics, 15(4): e1008034 DOI: 10.1371/journal.pgen.1008034
Via several experimentations, it was found that the melanocyte stem cells behaved like a glial cell under these conditions.
The experiments were conducted on mice so a long way to go yet before we get nerve coatings from melanocytes, although an exciting beginning.
APJ 110
MELANIN PRODUCTION ADJUSTED BY A LIGHT SENSITIVE PROTEIN A team of Brown University researchers found that opsin 3 - a protein closely
Research and Scientific New Developments
related to rhodopsin, the protein that enables low-light vision - has a role in adjusting the amount of pigment produced in human skin, a determinant of skin colour. This has been known since 2015 (see below) however this latest research indicates how much Opsin 3 modulates pigment production. The big surprise is that it is found to act independently of UVR exposure, by
We also know that Opsin 3 binds retinal, that is essential for sensing light in all rhodopsin-related proteins. Further proof of the old tale of eating carrots to see in the dark. I think the real value of this, is that opsin 3 may turn out to be a focus for treating pigmentation disorders, both hyper and hypo. APJ
Host & Microbe, 25(6), 777-788. DOI: 10.1016/j.chom.2019.04.004 RELMα is the first example of an antimicrobial protein that requires dietary vitamin A for its bacterial killing activity. This finding gives important clues about how the skin defends itself against infection, and how skin defence is regulated by the diet. Considering how often retinoids are used in dermatology, the implications of the findings are potentially vast. APJ
working out the molecular steps that make this possible. The research team found that opsin 3 changes the molecular signal that triggers melanin production. Opsin 3 decreasing the levels of cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) produced by the melanocortin-1 receptor. Ozdeslik, R., Olinski, L., Trieu, M., Oprian, D., & Oancea, E. (2019). Human nonvisual opsin 3 regulates pigmentation of epidermal melanocytes through functional interaction with melanocortin 1 receptor. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, 116(23) 1150811517. DOI: 10.1073/pnas.1902825116 Dr Oancea initially discovered that melanocytes have an abundance of opsin 3 in 2015. At the time, they thought that opsin 3 might be the receptor that detects UVA and signals increased melanin production, yet this latest finding works independently of UVR. We know that opsin 3 causes the influx of calcium ions into the melanocyte triggering the production of melanin.
VITAMIN A ESSENTIAL FOR THE SKIN’S BACTERIAL DEFENCE MECHANISM People who have inadequate vitamin A in their diets are more susceptible to skin infection, yet how that vitamin affects skin immunity has been unclear. The researchers found that one protein in the resistin-like molecule (RELM) family called resistin, require vitamin A for their action. The research was on ingested rather than topical Vitamin A and adds to our understanding of how bacteria and the microbiome impact skin diseases such as psoriasis and acne. Harris, T., Gattu, S., Propheter, D., Kuang, Z., Bel, S., Ruhn, K., Chara, A., Edwards, M., Zhang, C., Jo, J., Raj, P., Zouboulis, C., Kong, H., Segre, J., & Hooper, L. (2019). Resistinlike Molecule α Provides VitaminA-Dependent Antimicrobial Protection in the Skin. Cell
WEARABLE SENSORS TO MONITOR WOUND HEALING Researchers at Binghamton University, State University of New York, have developed a skin-inspired, open-mesh electromechanical sensor that is capable of monitoring lactate and oxygen on the skin. Both lactate and oxygen are critical biomarkers to access wound-healing progression. This allows for long-term, highperformance, real-time wound monitoring in users. Biosensors are analytical devices
APJ 111
SCIENTIFIC NEWS that combine a biological component with a physiochemical detector to observe and analyse a chemical substance and its reaction in the body. The bio-mimicry structured sensor platform allows free mass transfer between biological tissue and biointerfaced electronics giving real time evaluation of the underlying tissue. Ashley, B., Brown, M., Park, Y., Kuan, S., & Koh, A. (2019). Skin-inspired, open mesh electrochemical sensors for lactate and oxygen monitoring. Biosensors and Bioelectronics, 132, 343-351. DOI: 10.1016/j.bios.2019.02.041 Conventional biosensor technology, while a great advancement in the medical field, still has limitations to overcome and improvements to be made to enhance their functionality. Such sensors and engineering accomplishments can help advance healthcare applications and provide a better quantitative understanding in disease progression, wound care and general health. APJ
directly into a wound. Dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes are easily isolated from a small biopsy of uninjured tissue and expanded, mixed into a hydrogel and placed into the bioprinter. Integrated imaging technology involving a device that scans the wound, feeds the data into the software to tell the print heads which cells to deliver exactly where in the wound layer by layer, using 260 μm diameter nozzles.
and now comes clinical trials in human situations. While use of 3D printing for skin is not new, this study brings the possibility of effective own tissue wound healing for large burn areas that is not possible at present. There are a multitude of methods available in closing wounds, yet none use autologous tissue in such a native way.
APJ
The scan is to accurately gauge wound topography, which then guides the print-heads to deposit specified materials and cell types in appropriate locations. Doing so replicates and accelerates the formation of normal skin structure and function. Albanna, M., Binder, K., Murphy, S., Kim, J., Qasem, S., Zhao, W., Tan, J., El-Amin, I., Dice, D., Marco, J., Green, J., Xu, T., Skardal, A., Holmes, J., Jackson, J., Atala, A., & Yoo.J. (2019). In Situ Bioprinting of Autologous Skin Cells Accelerates Wound Healing of Extensive
FACIAL EXPRESSIONS AFFECT ‘COSMETIC TREATMENT’ PHOTO COMPARABILITY A new study in Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery found that 16 facial expressions and head positions significantly impact malar and jowl volumes, with slight smiling and frowning having the biggest effects. Facial volume changes from expressions can look like results seen from aesthetic facial rejuvenation procedures or make results appear far better than the actual.
SKIN NOW PRINTED DIRECTLY ON A WOUND
Excisional Full Thickness Wounds. Scientific Reports, 9(1), 1856. DOI: 10.1038/s41598-018-38366-w
Scientists have created such a mobile skin bioprinting system that allows bi-layered skin to be printed
Early days and some time before this will become a reality in a clinical situation. Proof of concept has been successful
APJ 112
The study reports smiling increased malar volume by an average 13.4 mL and decreased jowl volume by an average 1.2 mL. Frowning increased jowl volume by an average 3.3 mL and decreased malar volume by an average 2.2 mL; while snarling augmented malar
Research and Scientific New Developments
volume by an average 5.1 mL, while lower lip depression augmented jowl volumes by an average 3.2 mL. Using 3D imaging to align the forehead, brow and nasal root, then 14 soft tissue landmarks, such as the glabella, bilateral cheilion, pogonion and laryngeal prominence are identified. Photographs then taken with slight changes in expression. Rawlani, R., Qureshi, H., Rawlani, V., Turin, S., Mustoe, T. (2019). Volumetric Changes of the Mid and Lower Face with Animation and the Standardization of Three-Dimensional Facial Imaging. Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, 143(1),76-85. doi: 10.1097/PRS.0000000000005082. I have always been critical of the before and after clinical photos for several reasons – mostly due to ‘unethical’ after shots – with full makeup, less lighting, different angles and different expressions. This study shows even a slight smile led to substantial non-linear increases in malar volume and a slight frown to such increases in jowl volume that could be presumed to have been cosmetically enhanced.
APJ
finding all three effectively reduced the pigmentation, but mesotherapy had a slight edge in outcomes and patient satisfaction.
remedies tried and failed. Of the three methods tested, chemical peels are the option for most of us.
Each group of 15 females (All Fitzpatrick III) had one treatment per week for 5 weeks.
Be very careful if undertaking such treatments so near the eye – not only possible eye damage yet resulting ‘rebound’ hyperpigmentation. I have used Glycolic acid (20%) successfully yet need the pH it be around the 3, not near 1 for such an area. Would not suggest using TCA unless experienced with it. APJ
Chemical peel group at a mix of lactic 15% and TCA 3.75% applied in four layers. Carboxy therapy group underwent intradermal and subcutaneous injection of CO2 at specific sites on both the upper and lower eyelid bilaterally. Vitamin C mesotherapy group had 5 mls injected intra-epidermally into both lower eyelids. Mesotherapy was found to lead to the most significant improvement in pigmentation and the highest level of patient satisfaction, yet bruising was problematic. Chemical peeling provided overall 50% excellent improvement with the carboxy group not so happy with outcome. Ahmed, N., Mohammed, S., &
ONE-OFF THERAPY TOPS $3 MILLION THE gene therapy drug Zolgensma (onasemnogene abeparvovecxioi) has become the world’s most expensive medication, with the onetime treatment for spinal muscular atrophy priced at $3 million.
COMPARATIVE STUDY OF CARBOXY THERAPY VS CHEMICAL PEELING VS MESOTHERAPY A small study out of Egypt has looked at three treatments (carboxy therapy, chemical peel and vitamin C mesotherapy) for periorbital dark circles,
Fatani, M. (2019). Treatment of periorbital dark circles: Comparative study of carboxy therapy vs chemical peeling vs mesotherapy. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 18(1), 169-175. https:// doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12536 Periorbital pigmentation is problematic with many possible
Used to treat children under the age of two with Spinal Muscular Atrophy in USA. Australia has Spinraza (nusinersen), approved treatment for spinal muscular with the drug being added to the Pharmaceutical Benefit Scheme in 2018. APJ
APJ 113
SCIENTIFIC NEWS Not scientific news, yet interesting the drugs will be behind the counter with others that have been reclassified.
THE COSMETIC PHYSICIANS COLLEGE OF AUSTRALASIAN (CPCA) HAS LAUNCHED A NEW CAMPAIGN CALLED GET REAL Cosmetic enhancement is widely accepted as mainstream beauty. Facial modification apps based on filters are widely available, and Instagram leads the way it seems, in providing so many false images. There is a growing number of patients experiencing a distorted sense of self with unrealistic expectations, especially when it comes to cosmetic enhancement, results are being seen. Not only by surgeons and cosmetic practitioners. The Cosmetic Physicians College of Australasia (CPCA) has launched a new campaign called Get Real. The campaign is designed to help the public understand that not only do selfies provide a distorted sense of self but can also contribute to low self-esteem. APJ
APJ 114
TGA UNVEILS PLAN TO MAKE MORE MEDICINES AVAILABLE OTC
ADVICE FOR PROVIDERS OF LASERS, IPL DEVICES AND LED PHOTOTHERAPY FOR COSMETIC TREATMETNS AND BEAUTY THERAPY
The TGA has effectively created a new drug scheduling category (Schedule 3, Appendix M) for controlled OTC medicines as part of a plan to make more medicines available without a prescription.
ARPANSA updated their advice regarding the above modalities a while ago – just in case you are not aware of it the advice gives information to assist in safely applying light-based therapies, specifically laser, IPL devices and lightemitting diode (LED) phototherapy, for non-surgical cosmetic outcomes. The advice covers a wide range of safety aspects including qualifications and training, client assessment, relevant standards and hazard management. The information outlined is limited to protection of the client undergoing treatment from optical radiation, the technician/treatment provider performing the procedure and any other exposed person(s) in the vicinity.
Appendix M has already been added to the scheduling handbook, yet not yet enacted as still with public consultation and the Advisory Committee on Medicines Scheduling to provide advice. The TGA has asked the Pharmaceutical Society of Australia to draw up a list of S4 drugs that might be down scheduled. This resulted in seven ‘high priority’ prescription medicines: melatonin, oral contraceptives, ondansetron, trimethoprim/ nitrofurantoin, triptans, sildenafil and adapalene. Controlled OTC means that the Pharmacist needs to be sure after a brief consultation that the drug is appropriate. While over the counter,
APJ
You can find this advice on the APAN WEBSITE www.apanetwork.com or from the link below. https://www.arpansa.gov.au/adviceproviders-lasers-ipl-devices-and-ledphototherapy-cosmetic-treatments-andbeauty-therapy APJ
Research and Scientific New Developments
DIPLOMA IN COSMETIC MEDICINE We regularly receive calls from doctors who are wishing to enter the cosmetic medical field and are seeking direction. For those who are interested there is now a study program that can equip them to gain valuable education. The Diploma of Cosmetic Medicine is made available through the Australasian College of Aesthetic Medicine (ACAM) The overall objective of the training program is to produce Medical Practitioners who are safe, skilled and competent in the management of all aspects of Aesthetic Medicine. Entry to the ACAM training program is open to registered Medical Practitioners. All registered (in their country of residence) Medical Practitioners are welcome to enrol in the Diploma of Cosmetic Medicine. Candidates can access the Diploma training material via the online tutorials. The examination is
held annually usually corresponding to the College’s annual conference. The Diploma Certificate is awarded after the following requirements are met: •
12 monthly tutorials online
•
Logbook of 100 cases
•
Written Examination MCQ Paper This paper consists of 100 multiple-choice questions (5 parts each- total of 500 questions) over a 2-hour period in true/false format.
•
Viva Examinations The viva examinations are conducted approximately 4 weeks following the written exam. Only candidates who have successfully passed the written exam are invited to sit for the Viva exams. This will involve a 60-minute oral examination.
•
Three-Day Clinical Workshop The workshops are held annually and provide practical experience in Cosmetic Medicine procedures.
•
Clinical Experience The candidate should have two years fulltime (or part time equivalent) experience in Cosmetic Medicine. The doctor provides CV details. Two Medical References are required of Cosmetic Medicine Experience.
Further information is available through ACAM’s website www.acam.org.au/diploma-ofcosmetic-medicine APJ
APJ 115
TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS networking with others, either business or personal events, or even not having the time to have that coffee with a friend can be some of the first signs that depression may be taking over. It can also show up in your weight and fitness. The feeling of deprivation may contribute to you not being in control of your food. Eating unhealthy snacks that may give you a quick boost of energy, but ultimately be detrimental to your overall health through refined carb or extra sugar that you don’t need contributing to an increase in weight. Studies confirm that weight gain can often find its roots in depression and the feeling that your life is out of control.
MENTAL HEALTH AND BUSINESS OWNERS MENTAL HEALTH is a hot topic that has attracted a lot of attention. However, new research is examining what contributes to deteriorating mental health when under the pressures of owning a business. The joys of owning your own business and being your own boss definitely has an appeal and Australia has per capita one of the world’s highest small business operators. Experts warn that as we face business challenges, unless they are resolved, or effectively managed, they can contribute to the feeling on being on the hamster wheel. That feeling of overwhelm of inadequacy that can sneak in at times. This is particularly true for women who are also mothers and are juggling and balancing family and business responsibilities. The overwhelm and mental health One of the first things to be careful with when you enter that world of business is when you start to experience overwhelm on a regular basis. The problem with this is that it can lead in not looking after yourself adequately. You will tell yourself you are, but if you really step back you will likely find a very different picture. When we get to that stage that we
APJ 116
cannot see the end of the list of things we need to do, and the pressure on keeping on top of it - because it is our income source we are playing with - we start to work longer and longer hours to get things done. When we do this, we start to take short cuts with our diet and with our physical activity. Amy Morin in her 2015 Forbes article, There’s A Hidden Dark Side To Being An Entrepreneur, mentions some of the areas this can wreak havoc with overwhelm. These include depression, anxiety, self-worth and addiction. Let’s take a closer look at some of these and the considerations on managing our mental health better: Depression Depression can show in many ways and is often well masked by those of us who are on the ‘entrepreneurial journey’. It does show up in small ways to begin with. The lack of sleep is one of them. Staying up late to plan and then finding that your mind is too stimulated that you struggle to go to sleep. While the odd night up may be OK, it can be a challenge when long hours start becoming routine and habitual. This can weaken your immunity, not to mention erode your relationships as you progressively have less time for other important people in your life. Feeling that you are slowly losing control of your life, can slowly, but progressive contribute to the onslaught of depression. Symptoms to look for are withdrawal from
Anxiety This often goes hand in hand with the depression and overwhelm. The constant worry that you won’t get the work finished to make it work. The stress of meeting deadlines without someone to share it with. Financial pressures and the constant worry about how you are going to pay the bills. This is a big one if you are self-financed. Anxiety in itself can became a real personal monster in that often the only way through it is to work the thing that is causing the anxiousness through to the end! Self-worth As entrepreneurs our self-worth often becomes tied up with the businesses perceived success. If it is all going well, we will feel better about ourselves. You are in business to succeed and if you are not, then it can influence your confidence and self-worth, so, watch out for self-sabotaging self-talk. Precautionary measures It is important to remember that if you are feeling that you are failing and you cannot see how you can get out of situations that are getting the better of you, this does not mean you are a failure. It may just mean that you need to gain an objective overview of your situation. Seek to speak to a mentor or business coach and brainstorm options you can implement. Review your goals and why you set up your business in the first place. If it is to create a better life for you and your family, make sure you don’t neglect
Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome
them in the process. Breaks both throughout the day and meal breaks are a regulatory requirement. Their objective is to protect the wellbeing of your staff, their mental health and physical performance. Remember, that for your own wellbeing. Make it a habit to take time out to nurture yourself. Have one of the treatments that you are delivering and experience them for your own benefit, but also give yourself the opportunity to experience what you are delivering. Practice mindfulness – just five minutes to take a few deep breaths and relax your mind and body will allow you to see things more clearly. Do not underestimate the accumulative effect of small strategies that you can implement to protect your mental, emotional and physical wellbeing. APJ
SUPERCHARGING YOUR SERVICES’ SIGNATURE APPROACH YOUR JOURNEY towards leveraging and loving it is something that experts state we all should explore and implement. The area that you will excel in commonly
called your “Zone of Genius”. Tapping into this will allow you to make a bigger impact and shine in not just what you do, but also in how you do it. To achieve that you need to learn to play and design a “story” around the impact and experience you want your clients to be left with well after they leave you that has exclusive elements of your brand on it. You need to go beyond what your supplier is providing you as the medium to promote. Here are some suggestions: DRINKS AND HERBAL TEAS: If you are targeting inflammation in the skin, move beyond skincare and introduce a beverage that also contributes to anti-inflammatory benefits. MICROBIOTA: When considering ingredients that work on the microbiota of the skin, introduce a probiotic drink, or probiotic gels after the treatment that supports internally, what you are achieving on the skin.
ESSENTIAL OILS: If you are working with certain essential oils within a product, feature them physically and allow your clients to also inhale them. This could be through an infuser.
introduce relaxing music that is reminiscent of the beach waves. HERBS: If you are using certain herbs as part of the actives in your skincare, display a bunch of herbs. FRUIT: If your product has certain fruit extracts such as pomegranate, citrus fruit, pawpaw, pumpkin etc, display them in your business. POSTERS: If your products have floral extract, such as rose, lavender, aloe vera etc, create a poster that reflects the elements in your work environment to reinforce the experience in a creative way. Introduce a multi-dimensional approach using as many senses as possible to create an impact. Think outside the box. While your supplier may offer you creative ideas, don’t limit yourself just to their suggestions, work with your staff and set a brain-storming break when you can allow them to also come
up with any suggestions. Allow you team to contribute to the creative process. Make this a team effort and define your brand with elements of your own ingenuity. APJ
RELAXING MUSIC: If you are working with marine elements in your skincare,
APJ 117
TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS
SHOULD I HIRE AN ACCOUNTANT, A BOOKKEEPER, OR DO MY SMALL BUSINESS ACCOUNTING MYSELF?
accurate picture of your finances and the role ends there. This person must be detail-oriented and have a basic understanding of accounting principles. However, they don’t need to have a degree to achieve these tasks.
IF YOUR BUSINESS IS GROWING, you may be wondering if your days of balancing the books yourself are numbered. Consider if it’s time consuming and risky, especially if accounting isn’t your area of expertise. Maybe it’s time to find a financial pro who knows the numbers and the tax code like the back of their hand. But, who do you turn to?
An accountant, on the other hand, builds on the reports generated by the bookkeeper. They offer a fullpicture of your finances. Accountants look at financial statements, assets, and other data sets, and interpret the findings. Their job is to report economic conditions to you and help business leaders make better financial decisions.
Here, we’ve provided a few thoughts for your consideration: The first thing to consider is “what is the difference between an accountant and a bookkeeper? Most people don’t know the difference. It’s a common misconception - both professionals work to keep your records in order ready for audits, tax time, and gaining more control over cash flow. However, an accountant and a bookkeeper occupy different parts of the accounting process. A bookkeeper records and classifies a business’s financial transactions; payroll, sales made, and bills paid. Their goal is to create an
APJ 118
However, there can be some overlap between the roles. Bookkeepers in smaller organisations may take on more accounting tasks, even if not formally qualified to do so. This is because of the rise in automated accounting software, functions that were once reasonably complicated have been made much more manageable. Long story short, a bookkeeper takes care of one aspect of accounting - the recording component. Accountants cover the full picture. When do you need an accountant? As we mentioned, an accountant analyses all aspects of the financial process. They’re more of a strategic partner than down-in-the-weeds detail individual. Larger companies
employ full-time accountants, but small to mid-size companies generally work with an outsourced professional instead. The common perception of an accountant’s work usually conjures images of the mad dash toward the end of the tax year. Outside of tax season, your accountant can provide additional guidance. They might consult with you about how to maximise deductions or develop a business plan. Their responsibilities include: •
Preparing tax returns and financial statements
•
Verifying the accuracy of books
•
Tax planning
•
Advice related to financial decision making, tax law, assets, and entity structure
•
Business planning
•
Payroll issues
•
To set up accounting software correctly
As you can see, these services aren’t something you need on a regular basis. The accountant is there to guide you through critical processes that can help you grow your business the right way, craft a business plan, and apply for the proper licenses. When a bookkeeper makes more sense If you have an accountant, you’re
Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome
already on the right track. But if you’re going to an accountant for everything, you could be overspending on financial services. A CPA can command much higher rates than a bookkeeper, so it can be a good idea to use both professionals for their traditional purpose. Also, if you tend not to be well organised with your record-keeping you may not be giving the right information to your accountant. It is important to note that as far as the ATO is concerned you are responsible for the correct outcome of your tax return, not your accountant. So for any errors incurred, you will be the one liable, even if it was your accountant that made their error on your rax return. A bookkeeper, whether you hire an in-house employee or a freelancer, is a ground level financial pro. This person works to make sure books are up to date, and nothing is amiss. They’ll also be aware of financial red flags and can help you identify when it might be time to enlist the services of an accountant. Typical bookkeeper tasks include:
Bookkeepers are essential to any business as they help you keep on top of taxes, manage your cash flow, and make sure you stay organised. Day-today, your bookkeeper is there to make sure you pay your credit card bills on time and record your expenses accurately. Typically, you’ll work with a bookkeeper on an ongoing basis. They maintain your general ledger and make sure all items are coded properly. They typically use accounting software which will allow them and any member of your team to add invoices, expenses and other parts of your business finances on their desktop, your server, or the cloud, which makes managing the books fairly straightforward. This makes things easier on the accountant, who you’ll spend fewer hours with each year, thus saving money in the long run. What you need to know about managing your own books Many business owners will flat out tell you – it’s not the best idea to do your own books. But you’re likely already managing your own small business finances and things probably aren’t going that bad so that isn’t necessarily true. The real decision you’ll need to make is, do you want to do the books or focus on other things?
•
Recording payments and invoices from customers
•
Paying bills
•
Recording cash expenses
•
Managing payroll
•
Advising clients on best practices
•
Managing and forecasting cash flow
What you need to do if you decide to go the DIY route:
•
Reconciling bank accounts
•
Keep receipts and records
•
Reconcile accounts
•
Create purchase orders and invoices
•
Bill clients
•
Maintain a balance sheet
•
Summarise income and expenses
•
Create basic financial reports
Ultimately, it’s up to you whether you choose to use a professional or try and do your own accounts using accounting software – each has its own advantages and disadvantages from time savings to cost savings and everything in between. If you’re a small business with a limited budget and have been using a spreadsheet or no accounting at all – it makes sense to use accounting software. While you may start off doing your own books while the business is small, as it grows it pays to consider handing that responsibility to a professional. Your bookkeeping requirements may take you 6-7 hours per week however, an efficient bookkeeper may complete this task in 2-3 hours and interface with your accountant, saving the accountant time. What you save from the accountant’s bill may well and truly pay to employ a bookkeeper and still be left with money in your pocket. However, the most important benefit of having your financial records professionally managed is that it will save you on stress. As the business grows your time may be best suited spent on finding ways to bring revenue into the business rather than spending endless hours trying to comply with the requirements of the Tax Office. If you require the services of a competent bookkeeper please contact APAN. We definitely can help you locate someone who can take this pressure from you. Ph: 07 55930360 or info@apanetwork. com. APJ
A CLOSER LOOK AT “BUY NOW PAY LATER” SYSTEMS What’s the difference between credit
APJ 119
TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS and debt and how does Afterpay and other ‘BNPL’ providers skirt consumer laws? Credit used to be straightforward. A company that let you own something and pay for it over time was called a credit provider. It might be a bank, a department store or a credit-card company. Now there are “buy now, pay later” (BNPL) businesses. They too let you own something and pay for it over time. Yet these companies are not classified as credit providers. Why is this? A key reason is they don’t technically charge interest. Credit is defined as “a method of paying for goods at a later time, usually paying interest as well as the original money”. Debt is simply “the amount of money you owe to someone else”. It’s due to such distinctions that so many BNPL companies – including Afterpay, Zip and Splitit – have set up in Australia. Definitions in Australia’s national credit law have created loopholes that enable BNPL companies to operate free of the obligations applying to credit providers. The question therefore arises as to whether the law should make any distinction between credit and debt. Legal loophole The ways by which BNPL providers are not covered by the National Credit Act was examined by the Australian Securities and Investments Commission (ASIC) in 2018. The regulator looked at six leading BNPL companies and found: Two of the companies (Afterpay and Oxipay) were not regulated under the National Credit Act because they did not technically charge consumers a fee on their debt. The other four companies (zipMoney, Certegy, Openpay and Brighte) were not regulated because they charged upfront or periodic
APJ 120
fees that were fixed, did not vary according to the amount of credit provided and were less than minimum specified amounts under the law. Let’s take a closer look at Afterpay as it is the industry leader. Note the exact way other BNPL companies collect revenue might differ considerably, as indicated by the following data compiled by ASIC. Because BPNL companies are not regulated under the Credit Act, Afterpay is not legally required to observe the Act’s responsible lending obligations, which include performing a credit check and verifying a customer’s income and ability to pay a debt back. As the Sydney Morning Herald put it: “It’s a stroke of genius – from the perspective of the company and its shareholders. From the perspective of consumer groups, not so much.”
So late fees could really add up. On a debt of $150 (the average order, according to Afterpay) just one $10 late fee translates to an effective interest charge 6.67% for the fortnight. Just consider what having to pay a couple of late fees would equal in terms of an effective annual interest rate. A growing reliance As the above comparative chart of revenue sources indicated, late fees make up a larger portion of Afterpay’s than other BNPL providers. The proportion of its annual revenue coming from late fee has also been increasing as its total revenues escalate. In the 2016 financial year, late fees contributed 16.25% of Afterpay’s revenue. In 2018 it was 24.6%. By way of comparison, late fees, on average, comprise less than 1% of revenue for Alinta Energy, and 7.35% for credit card companies.
Afterpay reserves the right to do credit checks (according to clauses 6.1 and 6.2 of its customer agreement) but it can otherwise approve a customer request almost instantly. This makes it very convenient; but also increases the risk it will be dishing out money to people that can’t afford to get into debt.
Encouraging irresponsibility About 75% of Afterpay’s customers are aged 17 to 37, according to the company. This means its customer base is skewed more towards younger people than BNPL providers generally. ASIC estimates 60% of BNPL users are aged 18 to 34, and 40% earn less than A$40,000 a year.
Interest alternatives In lieu of charging interest, Afterpay relies on two mechanisms to make a profit.
The nature of BNPL services encourages customers to make impulse purchases. As a result, ASIC’s research has found: 81% of users agreed BPNL arrangements allowed them to buy more expensive items than what they could afford in a single payment 70% agreed BNPL allowed them to be “more spontaneous” 64% agreed BNPL enabled them to spend more than they normally would, and about 16% had either become overdrawn, delayed bill payments or borrowed more money because of a BNPL debt.
About three-quarters of its revenue comes from merchant fees. On every purchase, Afterpay charges the merchant a commission of 4-6% of the value of the transaction, plus 30 cents. The other quarter comes from late fees, imposed on customers when they fail to make repayments on time. Afterpay’s standard repayment period is two months, with customers expected to make four equal payment every two weeks. If you miss a repayment to Afterpay, you will be charged $10, and a further $7 if the payment remains unpaid seven days after the due date.
What this suggests is there are good grounds to close the legal loopholes that allow debt providers to operate under a different set of rules to credit providers. Ref: https://theconversation.com APJ
Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome
Over-stating expenses (3 per cent) “Crime Stoppers for tax” HOTLINE The ATO is hoping the community policing of tax evasion may just be in its nascent stages and will launch a new Tax Integrity Centre to coincide with the new tax year, providing a single point of contact for reporting suspected or known illegal phoenix, tax evasion and black economy activity. What the ATO has the power to do The ATO has extraordinary powers more akin to police and law enforcement agencies and when it makes mistakes, it can destroy small businesses and livelihoods.
TAX OFFICE DOB-IN-ADODGE PHONELINE RUNS HOT The ATO have introduced a hot-line for individuals who are aware of businesses who are dodging tax to report offenders, as it tries to crack down on a $50 billion black economy The largely cash "black economy" could be keeping as much $50 billion out of the ATO's sight. The Australian Tax Office (ATO) has found Australians are only too willing to subvert their traditional distaste for dobbing when it comes to tax evasion. Key points include: Referrals from the public about suspected tax evasion have nearly doubled from a year ago Most tip-offs relate to under-reported income and demands to be paid in cash ATO will launch an anonymous "crime stoppers" line for suspected tax evasion Since the ATO pushed the idea of getting more help from the public in the surveillance of tax dodgers in its report on the black economy two years ago, tip-offs have flooded in. The ATO reports that it has received nearly double the referrals from the community about tax evasion compared to the same time last financial year. "We're seeing an upwards trend in the volume of referrals about people suspected of participating in the black
economy, which suggests that honest businesses have had enough of competitors cheating the system and getting an unfair advantage," ATO assistant commissioner Peter Holt said. "Going on current numbers, we're on track to receive over 70,000 community referrals before the end of this financial year. "By way of comparison, we received over 51,000 referrals in 2017-18 and that was the highest ever number of referrals received. "Businesses that operate in the black economy are undercutting competitors and gaining a competitive advantage by not competing on an even footing,” Peter Holt said. A report compiled by the ATO in 2017 found the black economy could be as large as $50 billion, or 3 per cent of Australia's domestic economic activity. The biggest irritants for those making referrals to the ATO last year were suspected under-reporting of income or about the cash economy — for example businesses demanding cash from customers or paying their workers cash-in-hand. Top five ATO 'tip-offs': Under-reported income (31 per cent) Cash economy (27 per cent) Non-lodgement (25 per cent) Inadequate or no superannuation paid (8 per cent)
"Our tip-off line is the taxation equivalent of Crime Stoppers for tax," Mr Holt said. The hotline will accept private and anonymous tips. But if you are hoping to get some vicarious pleasure from dialling in, the ATO may not be able to help. "Due to privacy laws, we won't be able to inform you of the outcome of the information you provide," Mr Holt said. "We also won't be able to provide you with any updates on progress of the information you provided." The ATO's "Black Economy Taskforce" targets include: the under-reporting of income and over-claiming of expenses and ensuring businesses meet their employer obligations — so they don't pay employees or contractors cash in hand; underpayment of wages; failure to withhold tax; or not contributing to super. It also focuses on addressing illegal phoenixing — or the deliberate liquidating and reforming businesses to avoid tax — and preventing tax fraud in illicit tobacco, duty and excise evasion. APJ Ref: https://mobile.abc.net.au/ news/2019-06-21/ato-tax-evasiontip-offs-surge-crackdown-blackeconomy/11234126
APJ 121
PRACTIT I
ER ON
REGISTERE
AESTHET I
CS
D
APA N
APAN LAUNCHES
CONTINUING PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT (CPD) PROGRAM AS A NATIONAL STANDARDS BODY APAN provides membership opportunity for a diverse range of practitioners and business owners in aesthetics, dermal therapies, cosmetic tattooists, cosmetic nurses and cosmetic doctors. Members are provided with support in a variety of areas including business advice, industrial relations and wage concerns, regulatory compliance, discounted services, access to best practice documents as well as discounts for APAN sponsored conferences and professional development courses.
WHAT DOES ARAP OR CTARP REGISTRATION MEAN FOR YOU?
RECOGNITION FOR YOUR CREDENTIALS
INTRODUCING CPD POINTS
However, when it comes to assessing your qualifications and confirming and recognising your credentials that activity comes under a separate banner known as ARAP (for dermal therapists and aestheticians) and CTARP (for cosmetic tattooists). This is the formal APAN registration program and it is protected by a national trademark, which means that only those who have successful met the merit criteria will be allowed to use the acronym ARAP (APAN REGISTERED AESTHETIC PRACTITIONER), or CTARP (COSMETIC TATTOO APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER). Applicants are required to submit their credentials for assessment and if their qualifications meet with the necessary requirements, they will be awarded the appropriate status, which they can promote in their advertising. APAN will also promote them on the NATIONAL REGISTRY for consumers to access their details on their website.
There is a great deal of unrest among qualified practitioners who have worked hard to gain qualifications for the modalities they are performing, meanwhile there are others who are practicing as dermal therapists, laser and IPL practitioners, or cosmetic tattooists with no qualifications. This is because there is no regulatory instrument to prohibit them from doing do. ARAP and CTRP registration is an industry initiative that objectively assesses practitioner qualifications allowing them to gain recognition from an independent industry peak body acknowledging that they are indeed qualified to perform their professional responsibilities. This recognition sets them apart with an additional level of credibility that they can advertise and promote.
ARAP and CTARP practitioners are now required to provide evidence of their ongoing CONTINUING PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT (commonly abbreviated as CPD). The new CPD program was launched in July this year and full details are now available on the APAN website. The CPD program refers to the process of tracking and documenting the skills, knowledge and experience that you gain, both formally and informally as you work, beyond your initial training. It is a formal record of what you experience, learn and then apply. Professionals who are registered through the ARAP or CTARP programs must complete mandatory CPD requirements in order to maintain their registration.
MAINTAINING YOUR ARAP OR CTARP REGISTRATION To maintain your ARAP or CTARP registration you must complete and provide evidence of your investment in your on-going education and professional development to the accrued value of 15 points per year through educational activities and educational providers that are approved by APAN. You can access this information from the APAN website www.apanetwork.com.
PROFESSIONALISM REQUIRED OBJECTIVE VALIDATION AND EVIDENCE OF ON-GOING COMMITMENT TO CURRENCY OF SKILLS AND KNOWLEDGE. APAN extends an invitation to all qualified professional to submit their qualifications and gain ARAP or CTARP registration. Gain validation of your credentials by a peak industry body that will vouch for your integrity. For further details Ph: 07 5593 0360 or www.apanetwork.com
APJ 122
APAN’s standards recognition program now linked to continuing PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT (CPD) PROGRAM As of July 2018, the CTARP and ARAP programs are now linked to a more comprehensive Continuing Professional Development (CPD) Program.
‘Let your credibility be your competitive advantage’
APPLY TODAY!
AESTHET I
Practitioner Clinical Associate Educator Master Educator
Who can apply: • • • •
Aesthetic practitioners Dermal therapists Dermal Clinicians Educators
PRACTIT I
ER ON
D
• • • • •
CS
REGISTERE
For further information visit www.apanetwork.com/arap and complete an online Application Form.
There are five ARAP registration classifications:
APJ 123
APA N
Happy, Productive Staff are the Backbone of a SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS Let us help you find them and keep them. • • • •
Wage Rates Staff Conflict Issues Employment & Industrial Relations Staffing Contracts plus access to over 35 documents
PHONE TODAY TO LEARN HOW!
APAN HAS THE ANSWER
APAN - Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com
APJ 124