Our Heritage Magazine - 25

A HOME OF RICH HISTORICAL AND CULTURAL HERITAGE

ISSUE 25

BULHAY SHAH in paintings

PESHAWAR

One of the Oldest Cities of Asia

BIHARI A unique script

63

BIHARI - PG 01

CONTE

A UNIQUE SCRIPT Bihari script is remembered by many variants like Bihari, named after the state of Bihar in India; Behar meaning spring, thus some scholars think this script gives the feeling of freshness and the spring season.

SMALL IS BIG - PG 03 CREATIVITY KNOWS NO BOUNDS The art of miniature painting in Pakistan is a special form of art that has a very unique story to its birth as well as its survival in the country.

Back in the seventh century the book paintings and illuminated manuscripts were the order of the day.

43

RUINS OF HINDU RAJ - PG 07

A NATIONAL HERITAGE Hund - the capital of the Hindu Shahi dynasty.

Later, Alaptagin, the slave general at Ghazna founded Ghaznavid dynasty and ousted the Hindu Shahi from their main hold (933 AD) towards Punjab. By 7c AD, Muslim conquests defeated the Hindu Shahi were pushed to small area in Kabul.

AMBASSSADOR OF POLAND - PG 11

AN INTERVIEW WITH HIS EXCELLENCY MR. ANDRZEJ ANANICZ

TRANSLATING BULHAY SHAH IN PAINTINGS - PG 15 ITS ALL IN ONE CONTAINED By using familiar logos, Arif Khan creates indecipherable cryptograms with heightened awareness of contemplation and endless sense of mystery.

6 our Heritage

17

71

CONTENTS

NTS

11

RIVERS - PG 45

IQBAL - PG 17

THE SOURCE OF CULTURAL EVOLUTION some of the world’s oldest civilizations laid existence by the bank of the rivers: the ancient civilization, from the footprints of Harappa (3300BC), Mohenjodaro (2500BC ) and Gandhara (1500BC) by the Hakra (now dried up) and Indus River, respectively

CHEERS FOR CRICKET - PG 21

ONE OF THE OLDEST CITY OF ASIA Very few people know that Peshawar once, like Lahore, was known as city of gardens

AN ILLUSTRATED BIOGRAPHY The man who dreamt Pakistan An idea, a thought, a dream: Either of these can lead to the birth of a country. Allama Iqbal, the philosopher, lawyer, poet inspired millions of his fellow men to fight for self-reform and self-realization.

PAKISTAN VS ZIMBABWE Six years since the green grassy play grounds had felt the running, thumping, sliding, rushing of athletic feet and bodies on them.

THE PANJA SAHIB - PG 25 GURUDWARA AT HASAN ABDAL Riches cannot be gathered without sin & Evil means

MANGHOPHIR - PG 33

SAVE THE CROCODILE OF MANGHOPHIR

PAKISTAN THROUGH MEHDI'S LENS - PG 37

3 PS; PRACTICE, PATIENCE AND PASSION Pakistan is bestowed with the most beautiful and glamorous landscape in the world. Pakistan is one of the few countries with such a dynamic landscape; rivers, deserts, lakes, waterfalls, spring, glaciers

NARAN REVISITED - PG 43

NARAN REMAINS TO BE ONE OF THE MOST SCENIC PLACES IN THE WORLD. Naran has had a facelift. A change of its facial features mean that it has all the more to offer.

21

03

PESHAWAR - PG 49

KOT DIJI FORT - PG 53 ALSO KNOWN AS FORT AHMADABAD, named after the architect who built this fort and is about 25 miles east of the Indus River at the edge of the Nara-Rajisthan Desert.

THE GREAT PAKISTANI CIRCUS PG 57 OFFERED A VARIETY OF PERFORMANCES

25

INDUS DOLPHIN - PG 63

I AM ABSOLUTELY CONTENT River Indus is now the last habitat of the Indus blind dolphin, which is facing serious threats. It is an internationally threatened mammal.

A SUMMIT UNCELEBRATED - PG 67

BROAD PEAK 8407M That day we covered a distance normally treaded in two days by trekkers; mountaineers are usually in urgency to reach the Base Camp. I

THE CHANGING SHADES OF LAHORE - 71

LAHORE HAS HAD A CHANGE OF HEART. It is green all over. From the weeping willows whispering to the waters of the grand canal

our Heritage 7

By: Dr Shaukat Mahmood When we discuss the evolution of Islamic scripts it is never difficult to find out their origin, transformation and final settlement.

Nevertheless reformation is an unavoidable and assiduous process.

Interestingly there is one important and very elegant Islamic script, Bihari, whose origin is still a shrouded in mystery. “History of writing is a complex subject, and has been covered in varying amounts of details in a of general works. The best currently available survey is The World’s Writing System

by Peter T. Daniels and William Bright (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1996). An older but quite thorough survey is The Alphabet: A key to history of Mankind by David Diringer (New York: Philosophical Library, 1948 reprinted by Kessinger’s Rare Prints).

More theoretical works include A Study of Writing by I.J.Gelb (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, revised

1 our Heritage

edition 1963); A Histoty of Writing by Albertine Gaur (London: British Library 1992); The Visible Speech; The diverse Oneness of Writing by John DeFrancis (Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1989); and the Writing System of the World by Florian Coulmas (Oxford: Blackwell, 1989).

A good recent general survey in layman’s term is the The Wrting Revolution: Cuneiform to the internet by Amalia E. Gnanadesikan (New York: Wiley 20019).”

Bihari script is remembered by many variants like Bihari, named after the state of Bihar in India; Behar meaning spring, thus some scholars think this script gives the feeling of freshness and the spring season.

Heritage Bihari Script

Recently a new version Ba-har has also emerged but the claimants give no specific explanation. The claim that Bihari was an outcome of Naskh can be applied not only to Biahari but also with many other cursive scripts.

“A strange mutation of naskh script with obscure origins, bihari appears only in manuscripts predating the Mughals.

It is characterized by an exaggeration of the sublinear letter forms through a thickening of the letter’s curves and a sharpening of its end points.”

A deep study of the manuscripts produced using Bihari script also verifies that each letter or word was executed using the qalam in a versatile manner where construction of each word demanded building of the words and letters many retouches and that made this style of writing very cumbersome, Albeit it is a very beautiful style.

The script is recognizable by two of its salient characteristics, one, sub-linear curves of letters like nun, sad, dad, lam, sin and shin. These strokes become near horizontal and thick, as said above. These strokes are very conspicuous and are quickly recognized. Two, mim invariably runs below the guideline at an angle of 45 degrees running to left. Beside this horizontal stroke become thicker wherever they occur. Because of these thick strokes Bihari script assumes a very special character.

our Heritage 2

Art Small is Big

Creativity knows no bounds. And such is the case of artistic practice in Pakistan. With a history rich in traditional techniques that has for centuries been part and parcel of this part of the world, numerous genres of art have been practiced, developed, enjoyed and appreciated in the Sub-Continent. Several forms of art have had a strong presence through times. Art has manifested itself in the form that range from the very traditional to the very contemporary. Each genre has had its followers, each has its legacy and each has created its niche in the commercial as well as the artistic world that make up the art scene in Pakistan today.

From the time it started, the aim of miniature art has been to showcase a particularly attractive personal object, based on a very minute scale, that actually draws its audience into an intimate, concentrated world and start a conversation because of its breathtaking execution.

In a miniature painting, every single

detail is miniaturised. This might include the subject under discussion, the brush or pencil strokes or the

technique employed by the artist for that particular piece of work. The authenticity of a miniature painting lies in the fact that only with high magnification does the immaculate details of the artist’s techniques are made visible. These techniques may include stippling, hatching or pointillism.

The art of miniature painting in Pakistan is a special form of art that has a very unique story to its birth as well as its survival in the country.

Back in the seventh century

the book paintings and illuminated manuscripts were the order of the day. The small paintings in these illuminated scrolls or books were called miniature paintings and were popular in the scholarly centres of Europe, Persia, and Asia in the 13th and 14th centuries.

The small scale of these painting and the great detail mastered in these paintings made the manuscripts all the more valuable. They posed as jewel-like additions to the written pages. The main reason for what they were used was to visually explain or serve as an extension of the written word. This art form’s existence in its totality and its individuality was that it provided rich details of what was written presented in small spaces. However, later on as time went by, the practice of miniature painting became a method of storytelling in itself. The Mughals ruled the Sub-Continent for many many years. The artists of South- Asia were influenced by the Persian artists.

The affection for the tiny pictures was mutual for the artists. During the rule of the Mughal emperors miniature paintings thus became very popular. Tailored to the local culture and influenced by the court themes, the miniature paintings carried war scenes, courtly life, and palace ceremonies. Later on things of beauty like animals and flowers were also added to the themes of the paintings.

This age-old tradition of Indian miniature painting in the Mughal court was locally called musawwari.

Additionally in the golden age of the Mughal Empire, this art covered topics that ranged from popular romances to Hindu and Muslim mythologies.

our Heritage 4

The Mughal emperors liked to record their royal histories in detailed picturesque form and miniature art became the perfect vehicle for this. Morality tales and mystical poetry also flourished in the Mughal courts and miniature art also displayed many of these themes and topics. Royal portraits and hunting and garden scenes were also recorded in this art form.

copy portraits of the Great Mughals alongside dancing girls. The themes and scenes in these paintings were kept to be very stereotypical of the east since these products were to be sold to the west. The selling point for these paintings was showing the eastern lifestyle to the western market which comprised of the western world that knew little of the east and was impressed by the magical scenes of the Mughal court, their dresses and their jewellery among other things.

After the Mughal rule, the British took over the Sub-Continent. Just as everything changed, so did art and its practices. The British now introduced a totally new set of values that privileged the western conception of fine art over applied art. Traditional painting and other indigenous art forms were now regarded as craft.

They were now recognised to be at a different level of creativity, much far from what they were regarded in the Mughal court.

As time went by, and the British settled in their governance, they set up different educational institutions ranging from the primary level to the professional. A lot of these schools were supposed to feed the trade giant who supplied to the western world, things of everyday use like spices to objects of beauty like art. In 1872, they founded the Mayo School of Industrial Arts in Lahore. The main aim of setting up this school was to actually accelerate the production of local crafts for the purpose of international trade. Miniature painting was now viewed as yet another exotic product.

The local artists were encouraged to

5 our Heritage

After independence, as the Islamic Republic of Pakistan came into being in 1947, the Mayo School of Arts was reorganized as the National College of Arts. Once again a remodelling of the coursework, the custom and techniques employed took place.

There was a marked move towards a modern, European paradigm. Thus the traditional art forms previously taught at the school disappeared.

Likewise, miniature painting hardly existed. Later on the revival of this art form started with the teaching of miniature painting as an optional

subject at the Mayo School of Arts by the two ustads who were descendants of Mughal court painters. Later on, it was the year of 1982 when a student of one of the last traditional master miniaturists in the country succeeded in introducing it as a major subject in the fine art department. A lot of hard work was put into this. This, then gradually become one of the most successful programmes in the school. To date, miniature paintings of the graduating students remain in demand from international dealers and collectors.

However, the art form had had a rebirth. It took on a more contemporary look which was both modified and modernized to suit the cotemporary palate. The traditional master-disciple relationship was somehow sacrificed. The intensity of hard work that had earlier been part of this form of painting changed.

The learning that once took decades to master has been condensed into two to four academic years. This in a way was no more than a superficial understanding of the tradition. In the modern programme, the essential techniques and material knowledge of Mughal musawwari underwent a process of abbreviation. The traditional way of preparing wasli paper was replaced by usage of cheap, mass-produced paper. The long and tedious process of pigment preparation also gave way to a new shorter technique. Likewise the use of safaida was no longer practised.

Rather students relied on imported commercial watercolours.

The contemporary miniature art which is currently flourishing in Pakistan has lots of followers. Lots of graduates from the national College of Arts are developing their own styles of the miniature. To date, miniature art is set to grow and every piece makes the world believe that small is big.

Art Small is Big

Islamabad Marriott Hotel our Heritage 6

Ruins of Hindu Raj A National Heritage

By: Saifuddin Ismailji Across the length and breadth of Pakistan, treasured heritage in form of buildings belonging to different faith including impressive haveli (great mansions), state houses and art objects excavated from archeological sites – these inheritance tell tall tales of the past glory on the land now Pakistan. Heritage sites along the banks of the Indus River and its tributaries are mostly found in settlements stretching from the Potohar region (Rawalpindi and the salt range) to Lahore and in Sind province. Some well maintained while many in a dilapidated state, however marks evidence of different religions and cultures under the past regimes more than 2000 years back in time that includes domination of the fire worshipers from Persia, Mauryan Empire, the Bactrian Greeks, Hindu raj, Sikh rule, early Muslim conquests, the Mughal dynasty and the British.

Remnants found along the trail of different legacies, the Hindu Shahi (Shahya according to Al Beruni) or Kabul Shahi (8c AD to 10c AD), ruled over Afghanistan and vast Gandhara kingdom (now in Pakistan) from the northern hills (Hindukush mountains), evident at Raja Giri Castle in Suwat valley to Chenab River in the beginning and spread over the Potohar region and farther south. Al Beruni recorded that Kaller was

7 our Heritage

the founder of the Hindu Shahi Dynasty. Kaller was the vazir (viceroy) of the last Turk Shahi ruler, Lagaturman who was imprisoned by his Brahman vazir, Kallar. Kaller was succeeded by ‘the Brahman kings’ namely Samand, Kamala, Bhim, Jaypal and their descendants.

Ghaznavid (mid 8c AD) expelled Hindu Shahi form Afghanistan and they established

Hund - the capital of the Hindu Shahi dynasty. Later, Alaptagin, the slave general at Ghazna founded Ghaznavid dynasty and ousted the Hindu Shahi from their main hold (933 AD) towards Punjab. By 7c AD, Muslim conquests defeated the Hindu Shahi were pushed to small area in Kabul. Most of the Hindu temples are seen in its original structure in all the provinces including Sind, Balochistan, Punjab, Khyber Pakhtun Khwah (KPK) and a few sites in ruins in the Gilgit-Baltistan. Most of the temples are found in Sind, Punjab (Potohar region) and some of the important temple sites are being restored.

Heritage Ruins Of Hindu Raj

dynasty. In Tuzk-e-Jehangiri (Memoirs of Jehangir), Jehangir mention his residence beyond Rawalpindi, which probably referred to Saidpur. The temple is now restored and the entire village is formed into a model village recreational area with restaurants and easy hike into the hills. Beyond the Margalla hills, Hindu temples that evidence Hindu dominance during the Hindu Shahi period are still seen in Taxila and Rawalpindi’s old streets in the area of Raja Bazaar. Temples are also found in the many magnificent forts built near the Indus and Kabul Rivers (Attock Fort) and the Rohtas Fort in the Potohar region.

Shri Swaminarayan Mandir Ketas Raj Temple Complex

Ketas is a must stop on a tour to the Khewra Salt mines or Kallar Kahar, about 2 hours drive from Islamabad.

Off the motorway M2, fork turn left of Kallar Kahar, the road past by cement factory continues to a small village:

Choa Sayadan Shah in Chakwal

district (Punjab). About six kilometers from this village, the imposing sight of the seven temple complex opens the doors to the history of Hindu raj in this area.

Origin of the temple site, as historians’ claim, dates back to 6c AD, beyond the time when Hindu Shahi ruled the vast area. Dedicated to “Lord” Shiva, the 900 years old Ketas temple complex had been neglected to a dire state for many years until recently, the ex President Parvez Musharaf had ordered restoration works at the site.

After rehabilitation, four of the seven temples and the Warrior’s Residence now intact and opened to visitors.

You may miss the site of a pond, which is not in a state of tranquility as it used to be, however, probably the most revered part of the complex. According

to folk legend, the pond was formed by the tears of Lord Shiva, as he mourned after the death of his wife: Sati. Believers say that the water in the pond heals the body ailments.

At this pilgrimage site, Hindus visit the temples during the Maha Shivratri festival and bathe in the sacred pool to seek forgiveness.

Temple at Saidpur Village Islamabad

Lush area with a natural spring in the Margalla hills was discovered back in the Gandhara period during the time when Asoka administered communication channels laying out gardens and places for rest in green shade. Later, the area was converted into a Hindu worship place by a Hindu commander, Raja Maan Singh and the main temple building built was surrounded by water pools. The village became to be known as Saidpur Village, named after Sultan Said Khan, the son of the Chief of Gakhar tribe, Sultan Sarang Khan, who ruled the vast area from the Potohar region to the Jhelum River during the Mughal time when Jehangir ruled the

Largest congregations of Hindu temples are located in Karachi and interior Sind. One of the largest (27,012 Sq.metres) and well maintained temple, located in the center of Hindu residential area along Mohammad Ali Jinnah Road, Karachi is restored for visitors. Not only Hindu pilgrims, but tourists from all faith visit the site of this rare Swaminarayan temple that originally belongs to Nar Narayan Dev Gadi of the Swaminarayan Sampraday.

Shri Varun Dev Mandir About a thousand year old temple devoted to god Varuna, Shri Varun Dev temple stand on the shores of Manora (Karachi) is now eroding at a fast pace due to humidity and salty air that is grind down the structure. The temple stands unguarded and not visited as a place of worship; however, the temple belongs to the Hindu Council of Pakistan. The local legend has it that sometime around 16th century, Bhojomal Nancy Bhattia - a well to do sailor bought Manora Island from the Khan of Kalat, who owned most of the land along the coastline, then. His family commissioned this temple on the shoreline.

our Heritage 8

Aditya Sun temple

The Sun Temple is mentioned in the scripture of Greek Admiral Skylax, who passed through Kashyapapura (now Multan) in 515 BC. Records also suggest that the temple was also mentioned by Herodotus.

Famed Chinese pilgrim: Hsuen Tsang is said to have visited the temple in 641 AD, and described an idol of the Sun God made of pure gold with eyes made from large red rubies. The idols of Shiva and Buddha were also installed in the temple and the travelers including Istakhari narrate in their travelogue to have seen devadasis (dancing girls) in the temple.

The interiors of the temple were lavishly decorated and its doors and pillars adorned in gold, silver and precious gems.

The original Sun Temple was built by Samba, son of Krishna, with a faith to heal from the symptoms of leprosy after the construction of the temple.

Sun temple was a significant site for pilgrimage. Thousands of Hindus regularly went to Multan to worship the Sun god. According to Al-Beruni, that the Sun temple was never visited

by Hindu pilgrims in the 11th century since it was completely destroyed, then. The present site of the temple is an ongoing debate and no one is exactly aware of the origin site of the Sun temple.

Whilst a list of Hindu temples in Pakistan counts in hundred, some of the more significant existing temples includes: -Balmiki (Valmiki) Mandir - Peshawar -Shiv Mandir - Nowshera -Laxmi Narain Mandir - Mardan -Jagannath Temple - Sialkot -Katasraj temple, Katas Village Chakwal

9 our Heritage

-Krishna Temple, Ravi Road, Lahore -Sri Narasimha Temple - Multan -Suraj Kund Temple - Multan -Prahladpuri Temple, Multan -Tilla Jogian temple, Punjab -Valmiki Mandir, Lahore -Samadha Ashram, Shikarpur, Sukkur -Shankaranand Bharti, Shikarpur, Sukkur -Khat Wari Darbar, Shikarpur, Sukkur

Heritage Ruins Of Hindu Raj

-Bhagnari Shiv Mandir, Kakri Ground - Karachi -Darya Lal Sankat Mochan Mandir (also called Jhoolay Lal Mandir), Karachi -Devi Mandir, Bombay Bazar - Karachi -Hanuman Mandir, Doli Khata Karachi -Hanuman Mandir, Frere Road Karachi -Hinglaj Mata Mandir, (also called Jagannath Akhra Mandir), Bhimpura - Karachi

-Malir Mandir, Shah Faisal Colony Karachi -Narsingh Mahadev Mandir, Risala Karachi -Panch Mukhi Hanuman Mandir, Soldier Bazar - Karachi -Pamwal Das Shiv Mandir, Baghdadi, Saddar - Karachi -Mari Mata Mandir Rattan Tallow Akbar Road, Saddar, - Karachi

-GURU Nanik DASS Mandir, Shahdad Kot -Baba Khat wala shahib Mandir, Shahdadkot -Shiv Mandir, Shahdadkot -Baba Hiradaram Mandir, Shahdadkot

-Kathwari Harijan -Shri Punch Mukhi Hanuman Mandir, Garden East - Karachi -Shri Varun Dev Mandir, Manora, Karachi, Pakistan -Krishna Mandar kantio Tharparkar -Shri Mari Amman (Mata)Temple, Karachi

-Mata Mandir, Doli Khata - Karachi

-Jhulay Lal Mandir, Bagarji, Sukkur

-Shiv mander chelhar distt: Mithi thar

-Shiv Mandir - Umerkot

-Manhar Mandir Kathwari Mandir, Rancho Line - Karachi

-Baba Garib Das Darbar, Gospur, Kandhkot

-Shri Ramapi mander chelhar Distt: Mithi Thar

-Shri Hanuman Mandir, JPMC Karachi

-Shri Laxmi Narayan Mandir, Native Jetty - Karachi

-Wasan Shah Darbar, Rohri

-Shri Murli Mander chelhar Distt: Mithi Thar

-Kali Mata Temple - Umerkot -Krishna Mandir - Umerkot

-Sadh Belo, Rohri

Mithi Thar

-Shri Ratneshwar Mahadev Mandir, Clifton - Karachi -Ramchandra Mandir, Saddar Karachi -Ramswamy Mandir, Ramswamy Karachi

-Shri Mari Maata Mandir, Korangi Karachi -Shri Murlidhar Mandir, Mithi Tharparker -Shri Krishna Mandar, Mithi, Tharparker -Shri Hanuman Mander, Mithi, Tharparkar -Shri Pir Pithoro Mander, Mithi, Tharparkar -Shri Ramapir Mander, Mithi, Tharparkar -Shantoshi Maa Mander, Mithi, Tharparkar -Shiv Parvati Mander, Mithi, Tharparkar -Lokesh Mander Mithi Tharparkar -Guri Mandir, Guri, TharParkar -Shri Ramapir / Shri Hanuman Mandir - Cantt, Karachi -Shri Shyam Dam Mandir

-Sheetala Mata Mandir, Bhimpura, Karachi -Shiv Mandir, Islamia College, Karachi -Shri Laxmi Narayan Hanuman Mandir, Native Jetty - Karachi -Shri Devi Mata Mander Chelhar Distt:

our Heritage 10

Interview By: Ishrat Hayat The ambassador of Poland Andrzej Ananicz and his wife Zocia (or ‘Sofia’ as she is generally known) are a popular couple who have been winning hearts and minds of Pakistanis with more of a quiet and sincere attitude, rather than a flamboyant one. An added asset is that both know Urdu and can converse with the local people, though Ambassador Ananicz is more fluent in the language having studied it earlier, while his wife began to learn it after arriving in Islamabad. She is also a keen photographer and has captured the sights and sounds of places she has visited and the people she has met.

Heritage asked the ambassador a few questions about his tenure in Pakistan and here are his responses – which includes an interesting lesson in history!

Do you think the present bilateral relation between Pakistan and Poland are satisfactory or is there room for improvement and in what areas?

Generally, I am satisfied with the quality of our bilateral relations.

During my tenure in Pakistan we have had ministerial and parliamentary visits in both directions. Our trade is steadily growing. The biggest Polish company has invested substantially in Sindh and is currently delivering gas to the province’s grid. Two companies are active in exploring your oil and gas reserves. We have MOU’s on cooperation in a wide range of economic projects. I am also proud of the exchange of musicians

11 our Heritage

Interview Polish Ambassador

which started a few years back and is going to be continued because there is enormous interest for it both in Poland and Pakistan. Having said that I must admit that there is still room for improvement. Cooperation between our universities is almost non-existent. Same is the case in the field of science and technology. Due to security constrains very few tourists visit Pakistan (though Polish climbers are among the most frequent visitors of your 8-thousand peaks). So, my successor will also have some work to do.

It is a known fact that many envoys are restricted from moving around the country because of security concerns but if you have been out of the capital where did you go?

I am ambassador of Poland to Pakistan, not to Islamabad. Whenever it is feasible my wife and I have tried not to miss opportunities to visit different corners of Pakistan. Out of four provinces we haven’t seen Baluchistan because I have never received an answer to my application for the NOC. The list of places we visited is rather long and it includes economic and cultural centers like Karachi, Lahore, Sialkot, Gujrat and Peshawar. Visiting these cities, diplomats as a rule meet provincial politicians and businessmen of local chambers of commerce.

I and my wife always made an effort to add to the routine schedule elements related to the history and character of the region.

When you go to Karachi, don’t miss the exceptional Choukandi necropolis with its precisely carved tombs in pink-orange stone.

Lahore is a great city but why not explore Bhera and Chiniot, not to mention Multan and Bahawalpur?

While in Sialkot, famous for its most vibrant business community, one should not miss going to the Imam Ali ul-Haq Shrine, which is for me comparable to Lal Qalandar’s one in Sehvan Sharif. Gujrat is another economically important city but it also hides the mystery of Shah Daulah Shrine with its ‘chouha log’ (rat people.)

As for the beauty of nature we have visited the Kaghan and Swat valleys.

They are impressive! Due to bad weather conditions we had to cancel our trips to Giligit and Chitral three times but we are not giving up, hopefully this year we will be lucky.

Even if we were limited by time constrains to take longer trips, we visited places around Islamabad which are not frequented by foreigners, like Bari Imam and Loi Dandi, Shah Allah Dita or Kallar Seydan. Taxila, Wah Gardens and Rohtas Fort are places we have visited more than once.

Pakistan has a rich cultural heritage. Have you had the opportunity to see/hear/ experience any of it and if so can you comment on this aspect of the country? Is there any similarity between your cultural traditions and ours?

I have already mentioned that while traveling in Pakistan I am always looking for opportunities to see historic places and monuments which are so numerous in this country.

According to some theories, first humans to leave the African continent

landed on this soil. They were the ones to develop Mohen-jo-daro and Harappa civilizations. I visited the places and was impressed by the sophisticated structure of their cities, with public baths, toilets and a sewage system. Arians came only later with their cast system that persists till today on the subcontinent. Then, in today’s Pakistan’s North-West (Taxila), but also in Katas, intellectual centers which are important for humanity, attracted gifted young people from the wider region.

These were the places where the first universities were shaped. During the Muslim era Lahore was one of the capitals of the Moghol Empire. History of this land is exceptionally rich.

On the other hand Islamic Republic of Pakistan is one of the youngest states of the world. So, as for the history of the subcontinent, Poland can’t compete, as we are younger than most European countries.

But if we look at the history of our statehoods, Poland has a much longer record than Pakistan. Nevertheless, there are facts that in a curious manner compel me to think that our nations went through somewhat similar challenges on our way to independence. The subcontinent was a colony of a world empire for almost century. Its people were subdued to foreign rulers, while Poland was partitioned among its three neighbors for 123 years and regained independence in 1918.

During World War 11 my country was once again occupied by Nazi Germany and Stalin’s Soviet Union.

We suffered unprecedented human, infrastructural and cultural losses.

our Heritage 12

When the war ended, by the decision of four superpowers, a huge chunk of our territory was given to the Soviet Union and as a compensation Poland obtained some land carved out of defeated Germany. As a consequence millions of Poles had to leave their houses and property in the East and were forced to settle in the West. This exodus was even bigger than the one the Pakistanis and Indians suffered after the partition of 1947. It was more than natural that the beginnings of our relations with our neighbors were bitter. Luckily, over time we have managed to overcome resentments and mistrust.

In the past Poland had a social and cultural texture much closer to that of the Pakistani one than it has today. We used to be multinational, multicultural and had population following different religious rites, including Islam. Due to the wars and forced resettlements, today Poland is a homogenous nation with a small number of minorities. What makes us similar to Pakistanis is a stronger attachment to tradition and close family ties than there is among other Europeans.

You have been in Pakistan for almost four years now. What is your general impression of the country and its people? Have you had the opportunity to interact with different strata of society?

I have interacted with different social strata of Pakistan but not as often

13 our Heritage

as I would like. Our embassy has a system of small grants. We have been using them for reconstruction or construction of schools in smaller local communities. To see the result of our funding I traveled to villages in the vicinity of Saidu Sharif, central part of Kaghan valley or close to Nowsehra.

It was even more instructive to visit ‘Pahli Kiran’ school in the Islamabad slum and Mashal School for street children in Bari Imam. My Pakistani friend also took us to a village in Swabi belonging to his family. Since I picked up some Urdu I could communicate with people whose life and worries are substantially different from those of well-off Islamabad residents. On a daily basis we have stayed in contact not only with

Pakistani politicians and bureaucrats but also with academicians, artists, journalists, lawyers, social activists and businessmen.

Wherever we have been we were impressed by the sincere hospitality of Pakistani people, both rich and poor - this is the most characteristic feature of Pakistanis – hospitality!

From sociological researches we know that vast a majority of Pakistanis are anti-Western. Perhaps it is true but whenever I approached directly people in the streets or bazaars in cities and

villages to ask for direction or to buy anything I found interlocutors very friendly towards westerners, open and ready for help and conversation.

On the negative side I would mention the dramatic social divide. There are many opulent people living in luxury rare to find in Europe and even more poor, fighting to support their families to survive from one day to another.

I met wonderful Pakistanis who are trying to bring help to their kinsmen in need but this is not a challenge to be faced by a group of devoted idealists. Another distressing thing is of course – violence of all sorts.

Pakistan is blessed by wonderful nature. It is a land of magnificent history and culture; it has enough natural resources to grant welfare to its people. Tourism could be an engine to drive Pakistan towards the family of developed and prosperous countries. It is not and will not be until the menace of terrorism, sectarian hatred and extremism are not eliminated.

Does Poland have any scheme whereby students wishing to study in Poland can get scholarships or some support?

We do not have a specific country oriented scheme of this kind but our universities are open to host Pakistani students individually or within the framework of the European Union’s Erasmus Mundus program.

I am happy to say that the number interested in using this opportunity is growing every year. I have presented to Pakistani ministries and academia, a very long list of Polish research and development institutes, which are ready to exchange experts and work together with Pakistani partners on variety of projects with the EU financing.

Tourism Khanpur Lake

our Heritage 14

Art Translating Bulhay Shah in Paintings

In addition to above a further translation of Bullay Shah’s kalam is translated as under: What use is it bowing one’s head?

To what avail has prostrating led?

Reading Kalima you make them laugh Absorbing not a word while the Qur’an you quaff The truth must be here and there sustained It’s all in One contained.

Some retire to the jungles in vain Others restrict their meals to a grain Misled they waste away unfed And come back home half-alive, halfdead Emaciated in the ascetic postures feigned It’s all in One contained.

It is all in One contained and what is One, One is Allah, represented by Sufi poets and artists as a nuqta (dot or a point). Initially in Arabic texts there was no letter-pointing, all huruf were without dots, diacritic and orthographic signs. A nuqta, a symbol personifying Oneness of Allah was not necessarily part of text or texts. However Sufi poets, particularly Bullhay Shah used it as a symbol of tauheed. Tauheed is the concept of monotheism in Islam.

It is the religion’s most fundamental concept and holds that God (Allah) is One (Al-Ahad) and Single (Al-Wāhid). Strictly the word connotes ‘unification’, ‘oneness’.

The holy Qur’an vehemently professes this concept. Though this concept needs no explanation there are certain words in Qur’an that remain a mystery and unexplained.

These words known as muqtta’at (e.g. Ya Sin; alif, lam, mim; ta ha and so on) are considered holy and bear talismanic appeal.

Professor Dr. Shahida Manzoor, principal of the College of Arts & Design, Punjab University, Lahore, commenting on the works of Arif Khan said, “By using familiar logos, Arif Khan creates indecipherable cryptograms with heightened awareness of contemplation and endless sense of mystery. In his calligraphic art, the power of ‘Nuqta’ accelerates the imagination of the viewer. Beautiful colours and forms are delightful enough to engage the viewer’s perception. If one wishes to enjoy the real beauty of these astonishing art pieces, one needs to just frieze oneself in front of these unique art pieces and meditate the mystic moment of union, where ethos and pathos become one, and above all beauty seems to be turned into sublime.”

Of late calligraphy has become a fashion for most of our painters and artists, most of these artists are copycats and their productions show in creativity or innovation. Some,

however, are inculcating new trends.

One such artist is Arif Khan. For decades he has been creating artwork based on Islamic calligraphy. Nuqta and muqatta’at remain his favourite topics.

While inscribing nuqta and muqatta’at juxtaposed with other ayat uses a technique commonly known as mixed-media. Reading his art-pieces I can see a clever combination of watercolours and thick layers of lacquer. While the thick lacquer is wet he scratches holy words with a fine nib or qalam. This technique lends a very charming effect to his artwork.

Though Arabic scripts are always conspicuous the nuqta is sometimes shrouded in mysterious backgrounds or in spate of alluring pigments.

Ari Khan is a senior teacher at the College of Art & Design, Punjab University and enjoys immense respect from his students and lovers of art. He very often displays his work in solo shows. His every exhibition which showcases in Lahore and Karachi proves6 a puissant and tremendous source of inspiration for his students and to all those who love creativity, innovation and commitment.

our Heritage 16

IQBAL

AN ILLUSTRATED BIOGRAPHY

The man who dreamt Pakistan An idea, a thought, a dream: Either of these can lead to the birth of a country. Allama Iqbal, the philosopher, lawyer, poet inspired millions of his fellow men to fight for self-reform and self-realization.

Book Review By: Khuzaima Fatima Haque

Some books are never too old to read. Such is the case of IQBAL An Illustrated Biography penned

by Khurram Ali Shafique. First published in 2006 by the Iqbal Academy Pakistani, it is one of a kind publication in which Pakistan’s national poet Allama Iqbal is talked about in great detail. Not only does one gets to understand his philosophy, his ideas, his poetry but what made the man that all of us know today as Iqbal.

The beauty of the book lies in its vast collection of rare photographs of the poet from his childhood to his last days. Images of his mother as well his sister, his children are all included in the biography and make up a fascinating package for the reader.

The visual experience that this book provides is something that is to be treasured. The reader will also find visual treats where very rare photographs of the poet like the one with his smile and teeth showing, which he considered never to be printed because it was thought to be impolite to show such in public is also part of the book.

The text is very simply put forward starting with a biography of Iqbal. This is followed by brief introductions to the events and people who were most relevant to the poet’s life. People who influenced his thought are also acknowledged in great detail. Later on, a synopsis of his published works and major uncollected writings and extracts from his collected writings are presented. The great historically significant Allahabad address is also part of the publication.

Book Review IQBAL (AN ILLUSTRATED BIOGRAPHY)

Iqbal was a man whose fame grew with time and went as far as the universities in Germany and England where scholarships and chairs were named after him.

To this day, his recognition knows no bounds. The poet’s childhood was influenced greatly by his mother, Imam Bibi, a worldly-wise woman with pious habits who nurtured the humane side of the poet. He studied at the Government College, Lahore. Here he was taught

by Thomas Walker

to work towards a career in law.

As he departed for higher studies abroad, he was an “accomplished young intellectual, aware of what he wanted to do, and which direction he would like to take”. He had landed in Europe, with a mind impressed by England being the land of knowledge, the seat of universal law and builder of empires. However, soon after a year and a half he joined the band of thinkers and discarded this faulty

Alongside this,

the book IQBAL An Illustrated Biography also throws light on the humility and the humane side of the great poet.

Quote “He was rather slow by nature. He could forget food if preoccupied with reading and would later ask innocently ‘Have I taken my meals?’”.

Arnold who remarked about Iqbal, “A pupil such as him turns a teacher into a researcher and a researcher into a more ardent researcher”

One of the greatest works, “The Reconstruction of Religious Thought in Islam” is also discussed in brief. Later on, his idea of Pakistan and how he envisioned the state to be, is described in full force. The great historic Allahabad Address covers full fifteen and a half pages and recounts the historic decision of the new Islamic state. All major historical occasions and events touched on in the publication shed light on how Iqbal fuelled a major part of history and how his works expressed the feelings of an intellectual giant of the world.

Arnold influenced the young poet and led him to study at Cambridge and helped him secure jobs at the Oriental College and Government College Lahore. The poet started writing poetry at a very early age and came to be known in the poetic circles through his recitals in vast gatherings at the annual sessions of a Muslim social organization.

Iqbal was a genius and acquired the knowledge of six languages with the power to write world-class literature in at least three of them. To him, poetry was not a matter of choice, rather, it came to him so naturally that his professional life suffered because of this. As a result, he was not very dedicated in the beginning

apartheid of the Muslims. The manner and historical thought that went into each of his works is a matter of genius in every sense.

thinking once and for all. The year 1907, thus saw the start of a lifelong process of reincarnation of the poet and philosopher.

Later on, as the Muslim rule faltered and fell into ruin, he got his thoughts together and wrote about the

No doubt the book covers the entire persona of the great poet, his works that stand out as gems of worldly knowledge and his personal life, a mix of the normal and the sublime. Admirers of the great poet will definitely enjoy reading this publication.

our Heritage 18

Pearl-Continental Peshawar

Book Review IQBAL (AN ILLUSTRATED BIOGRAPHY)

Sport Cheers for Cricket

The air seemed heavy with emotions and enthusiasm. We had almost forgotten how great it felt like to watch and experience a game of international caliber at our home ground.

It had been a while; some six years to be exact.

Six years since the green grassy play grounds had felt the running, thumping, sliding, rushing of athletic feet and bodies on them; Six years since the spectators’ stands had echoed with the noise, the cheers, the laughter, the enthusiasm of game lovers; Six years since the arenas had come alive with a life of their own; Six years since the horrific incident that has consequently closed the doors of international cricket on Pakistan….

Then suddenly there was a stir.

It was as if by the sway of a magic wand, the sleepy spell cast over the green grassy ground in the magnificent Qaddafi Stadium of Lahore seemed to be shaken off; getting out of its stupor, the stadium became abuzz with renovation and preparation.

For out of the blue and against all odds, someone had consented to come and play international cricket at the abandoned home ground! And that someone was none other than the sporty, zesty, daring, upcoming Zimbabwe Team.

The whole country was alerted by the news; doing double takes to confirm and re confirm if it was really going to happen….

But the fact of the matter was that the gutsy Zimbabwean Cricket Board had taken the bold decision (even against its own government’s reservations) to visit the land of the cricket lovers deprived of the game due to circumstances unfortunate.

Though there were no test matches (considered to be the real essence of cricket) in the schedule, and the visit was planned in the sultry month of May and all the matches (3 one days and 2 T 20s) were scheduled in Lahore alone, the enthusiasm and excitement all across Pakistan was commendable.

There were rumors that the visitors may not come; and these haunted the country till the last moment. But then, the Zims did arrive, and suddenly we had a match(es) at our hand!

There were speculations that these matches would be little more than a mundane, one-sided affair with a down and out struggling Pakistani team (after freshly being thrashed by

our Heritage 22

the Bangladesh team) still panting from the effort to pull things together, and a somewhat immature Zim team which did not apparently give much to hope for.

But once again the suppositions were proven wrong.

It was one fire cracker after the other; truly; totally!

Pakistan managed to clinch the two T20s from Zimbabwe; but just.

Both games sported high scores as per T20’s standards and ended on a nail biting finish. The same was the case with the first two one days where Pakistan showed its class and experience to bag both games. The Green Team was all poised to make it a clean sweep with a 3-0 lead when rain decided to have the final word in matters and the series ended with Pakistan as an all out winner through and through!

But surprisingly, the enthusiasts all across the country did not cheer for just the one team that clinched the series win, i.e. Pakistan.

For right from the very onset, when the Zimbabwe team landed on home soil, there was seen a tremendous support and cheers for the visitors.

The Z team maintained that they had agreed to make the tour fully understanding the risks involved as they too had faced more or less the same circumstances back home.

It was this empathetic stance and the will to keep the passion for the game alive in a fellow country that won the hearts of the Pakistanis. It was in acknowledgment of this spirit that we saw a number of Zimbabweans supporters inside as well as outside the stadium.

It was basically celebrating the revival of a murdered game in Pakistan and the whole country showed its love and gratitude to the Zims for playing a vital part in the whole scenario.

So all said and done, it was a win-win series for all, with no losing side at all.

It was a short but much needed breath of fresh air that acted as resuscitation for a game almost on death bed in dear homeland. It truly brought cheers and smiles all around and also very emphatically gave the world the message that Pakistan is a safe and peace loving country with a penchant and passion for the game called cricket; the Zimbabweans acknowledged this fact; why cannot the rest of the world?

Time to give Pakistan a chance; Time to give Cricket a chance; Cheers!

Tourism Khanpur Lake

Pearl-Continental Bhurban our Heritage 24

a boy Guru Nanak learnt, besides the regional languages, Persian and Arabic. He was married in 1487 and was blessed with two sons in 1491 and 1496. In 1485 he took up an appointment in the court of Daulat Khan Lodhi, the Muslim ruler of the area at Sultanpur. It is there that he came into contact with Bha’i Mardana, a Muslim minstrel (Mirasi).

He received nirvana or enlightenment in 1496. His first statement after his prophetic communion with God was “There is no Hindu, nor any Mussalman.”

Guru Nanak Guru Nanak was born April 15, 1469 in Talwandi, a village in the Sheikhupura district, 65 km west of Lahore. His parents were Kalyan Chand Das Bedi, popularly shortened to Mehta Kalu, and Mata Tripta. His father was the local patwari (accountant) for crop revenue in the village of Talwandi.

His parents were both Hindus and belonged to the merchant caste. As

25 our Heritage

When Guru Nanak was 12 years old his father gave him twenty rupees and asked him to start a business. In stead of starting business he bought food and distributed it amongst the needy.

When his father asked him what happened to business? He replied that he had done a “True business” at the place where Guru Nanak fed the poor a gurudwara was erected later and named Sacha Sauda.

During his extensive travels the person who always accompanied him was Bha’i Mardana (1459-1534).

Bha’i Mardana Guru Nanak’s longtime Muslim companion throughout his extensive journeys across the country and abroad, was born the son of a

Heritage The Panja & The Panja Sahib

this period. During these tours he studied other religious systems like Hinduism, Jainism, Buddhism and Islam. Finally, on the completion of his tours, he settled as a peasant farmer at Kartarpur, a border village at the bank of River Ravi in the Punjab (Pakistan). The Guru died on September 22, 1539 (aged 70) at Kartarpur, A gurudwara considered to be the tomb of the saint stands at this place.

Mirasi couple, Badra and Lakkho of Talvandi, now Nankana Sahib, in Sheikhupura district of Pakistan. Bha’i Mardana was ten year older than Guru Nanak and was his childhood friend and companion. There is some dispute among the historian about the place where Bha’i Mardana died but it is believed that in 1534 he fell ill and died in Baghdad on the return journey from the east. With a heavy heart Guru performed the obsequies of Mardana with his own hands. A humble monument was erected in memory of Mardana. Within an enclosure on a wall an inscription in mixed Turkish and Arabic marks the site. Mardana was called Murad by the residents of Baghdad and being older than Nanak by ten years was considered Guru. Consequently the inscription which was put up after Guru Nanak’s departure said: “Guru Murad died. Baba Nanak faqir helped in constructing this building, which is an act of grace from a virtuous follower, 927 A.H.” Mardana appears to have died in December

1534 at the age of 75. The monument lies near a graveyard, 2.5 kilometres away from the railway station.

Despite the hazards of travel in those times,Guru Nanak performed five long tours all over the country and even outside it. He visited most of the known religious places and centres of worship.

During his tours, he visited numerous places of Hindu and Muslim worship.

He explained and exposed through his preaching the incongruities and fruitlessness of ritualistic and ascetic practices.

He spent twenty five years of his life preaching from place to place. Many of his hymns were composed during

Guru Nanak along with Bha’i Mardana reached Hasan Abdal in Baisakh of 1521 in the summer season. Under a shady cool tree, Guru Nanak and Bhai Mardana started reciting Kirtan and their devotees gathered around. This annoyed a local saint, Hazrat Shah Wali Qandhari, who meditated atop a nearby hill deside a spring of fresh water.

According to legend, Bhai Mardana was sent three times to Shah Wali Qandhari by (Guru Nanak) so that he would provide him with some water to quench his thirst. Wali Qandhari

our Heritage 26

refused his request and was also rude to him. In spite of this, Mardana still very politely stuck to his demand. The Wali ironically remarked, “Why don’t you ask your Guru whom you serve?”

Mardana went back to the Guru in a miserable state and said “Oh lord!

I prefer death to thirst but will not approach Wali again” The Guru replied “Oh Bha’i Mardana!

Repeat the Name of God, the Almighty; and drink the water to your heart’s content.”

The Guru put aside a big rock lying nearby and a pure fountain of water sprang up and began to flow endlessly.

Bha’i Mardana quenched his thirst and felt grateful to the Guru.

On the other hand, the fountain of Shah Wali Qandhari began to dry up.

On witnessing this, the Wali in his rage threw a part of a mountain towards the Guru from the top of the hill. The Guru stopped the hurled rock with his right hand leaving his hand print (panja) in the rock. Observing that miracle, Wali became the Guru’s devotee. This holy and revered place was named Panja Sahib by Hari Singh Nalwa, the most famous general of the Kingdom of the Sikhs. He is credited with having built the first gurdwara at this place.

Complex of Panjab Saheb’s Gurudwara at Hasan Abdal can be called a

27 our Heritage

miniature replica of the Golden Temple at Amritsar. Within a huge enclosure of buildings that serve as hostels when the Sikh yatrees arrive there is a pond full of crystal clear water, temple stands in the middle.

On one of the sides is a passage that goes down where the famous rock is located with the imprint of the hand of the saint.

The main building is all painted white.

It has two main parts the first story ends at a projection, this story inside has two levels and one can see a number of oriel windows (jharokas) at the second level inside. Above the

whole structure is punctuated with turrets, kiosks and domes. The main dome much larger in size rises from the middle of this cluster. The main dome is onion shaped (or like a melon) and shows its vertical segments very clearly. The whole structure is extremely beautiful and very well maintained.

Tail-piece : Guru Nanak ji as a part of his teaching also advised his followers that a true follower of Sikhism will never beg, he will never ask for alms or charity. Worldwide today we cannot find a single Sikh beggar.

Golden Temple At Amritsar

Tourism Khanpur Lake

Pearl-Continental Rawalpindi our Heritage 28

Pearl of

LAHORE

Highlights from the

Pearl-Continental Lahore

29 our Heritage

Lahore is one of the Pakistan's busiest metropolitan cities, rich in culture and traditions.

Capital of agriculturally affluent province of the Punjab, Lahore has grown with the influx of national and multi-national businesses. It is a unique city, which has everything that is modern while retaining its original flavor. The city is famous for its emphasis on inherited and crosscultural variety of cuisines. Its lush greenery and parks are soothing to the weary travelers.

Insight Pearl-Continental Lahore

ACCOMODATION In every room, we have created an environment of absolute comfort, using soft muted colours, deep luxurious mattresses and fresh crisp linens of the highest quality. Whether you choose any one of our suites or opt for any guestroom, you can always be sure of a fantastic sleep to leave you feeling refreshed and revitalised.

Just 25 minutes away from the Allama Iqbal International Airport, the hotel is located on Shahrah-e-Quaid-e-Azam (Mall Road). The concierge will be happy to arrange pick and drop service through the airport shuttle if informed.

Guest rooms & Suites

607

Business Suites

28

Presidential Suites

03

Royal Suites

03

Deluxe Suites

17

Executive Suites

02

SPECIAL FEATURES Express capsule lifts take you directly to various floors of Atrium & Mall wing.

Mosque, centrally air-conditioned shopping arcade, express check-in & check-out facility on the executive floor, full emergency self power generated back-up system, valet parking, 24 hours on call Doctor’s facility. Number of specialty restaurants and huge banquet halls facility.

our Heritage 30

DINING OUTLETS NADIA For some, it’s relaxing over afternoon tea in the delightful Nadia, for others, it’s sipping a favourite cocktail, or enjoying an exquisite dining experience. Whatever your preference, Nadia offers deliciously different opportunities to indulge your every taste, mood and desire.

MARCOPOLO Marco Polo remains committed to offering warm, friendly, personal service and a broad menu featuring quality food for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and evening snacks. Bright, calming and airy, Marco Polo is one of the pinnacle eatery in the city. Marco Polo is open for round the clock.

TAI-PAN Serving traditional Chinese cuisine with an essence of the Canton and Shanghai

provinces, Tai-Pan specialties are prepared using the four Chinese cooking methods: steamed, braised, baked, and fried. Our chefs offer a menu that is constantly changing to take advantage of seasonal offerings.

CAFÉ LATTE Invite your taste buds to a performance they'll never forget. The Café Latte serves mouth-watering sandwiches. But don't forget about the perfectly seasoned soups, fresh salads, and pastries.

242 A small lounge for in-house nonmuslim guests serving various alcoholic and non alcoholic beverages.

SAKURA It's the ultimate destination for Japanese cuisine. Sakura features freshly prepared ingredients, stellar sushi and the widest sake selection this side of the Pacific. Experience the sleek urban elegance of Sakura with live teppanyaki counter and transport yourself to the Far-from-ordinary East.

COVO From Sicily to Milan, COVO presents traditional Italian cuisine in sleek surroundings. Featuring fresh pastas hand-crafted daily, with imported steaks & aromatic Pizzas.

31 our Heritage

DUMPUKHT A traditional Mughlai point where the recipes would mesmerize your taste buds with the magic of their chefs. It’s a fine dining restaurant and offers up gourmet delights akin to those produced by the royal khansamahs.

BUKHARA The romance of the Delicious Lahori live Bar-b-Que Buffet comes alive at this authentic, restaurant making it a landmark-dining destination in Lahore.

Bukhara recreates the charm of the traditional clay oven or tandoor with its delicious menu of succulent tandoorcooked kebabs, vegetables and breads.

BAKER’S BOUTIQUE Maintaining the tradition of making the best cakes & bakery delights in the city.

Insight Pearl-Continental Lahore

OUTSIDE CATERING Paving the way for the formal and informal connections that make business succeed, our business center is equipped with “State of the art� equipment facilities. Round the clock business center consist of 02 boardrooms and 04 private offices.

Whatever your business, PearlContinental Hotel Lahore is an excellent venue for corporate events, exhibitions and entertainment. And with a wide variety of well-equipped boardrooms and meeting rooms, we can provide firstclass corporate services.

Pearl-Continental is the perfect place to inspire and motivate your colleagues, or to impress your clients. Our dedicated events team is always on hand to help you strike the right balance between business and pleasure.

Our conference and banquet facilities are a great choice for your next event with flexible meeting space ready to welcome 10 to 1000 people.

CONFERENCE & BANQUET FACILITIES Whatever your business, PearlContinental Hotel Lahore is an excellent venue for corporate events, exhibitions and entertainment. And with a wide variety of well-equipped boardrooms and meeting rooms, we can provide firstclass corporate services.

Pearl-Continental is the perfect place to inspire and motivate your colleagues, or to impress your clients. Our dedicated events team is always on hand to help

you strike the right balance between business and pleasure.

The lavishly selected banqueting venues and ballroom have played host to many prestigious gala dinners, weddings, fashion shows, musical events and official ceremonies.

Our conference and banquet facilities are a great choice for your next event with flexible meeting space ready to welcome 10 to 1000 people.

The lavishly selected banqueting venues and ballroom have played host to many prestigious gala dinners, weddings, fashion shows, musical events and official ceremonies.

our Heritage 32

By: Dr. Babur Zahiruddin It was 19th November, 2009 about 6 years back that I started writing for the Heritage magazine and my first article published was "SAVE THE CROCODILES OF MANGHOPHIR" It was a very nice lovely day in Karachi with the cool winds blowing from the sea that at 0545am, I got up in time for my Fajar prayers and after a quick breakfast hit the road at 0810 as my destination today was North Karachi branch about 50 kms away.

The journey today took me from PNS Karsaz to Stadium road EXPO centre DALMIA and then I turned on to the civic centre road.

The traffic was slow at that time as Karachi people are lethargic sleepy lot and the business starts late in the day. Crossed Nipa Churangi by passed the Sohrab Goth exit and finally took the Nagin Chowrangi, the name given by the locals because of

33 our Heritage

the similarity with a female’s cobra hood which has given notoriety to this roundabout because of the complex configuration of the crossing.

My driver this time was not familiar with the route to the shrine of

Manghophir so we had to ask directions at two or three places before we finally reached the vicinity of the shrine. I had another ritual to perform before I could enter in to the shrine as five years back I had made a MANNAT (Religious desire and its fulfillment) which had now had now been fulfilled.

What was that I had desired (MANNAT) about 5 years back that has now been fulfilled?

Many of my white spots (Vitiligo) on my face had healed and secondly was the fulfillment of an earthly desire which I better keep to myself and thank GOD for his countless blessings.

Heritage Manghophir

The attendant had a hard time in opening the mouths of the over sized lazy & sluggish reptiles who were basking in the morning sun. He prodded the crocodiles with a stick and made them open their mouths in which he put the meat offerings.

What I am now going to write may come as shock to most of you who had read my previous article in the "Our Heritage" Magazine that there has been abysmal deterioration in the conditions which are prevailing at the present time as compared to what I noticed about 5 years back.

• Pond is more dirtier than before.

I had to drive past the shrine into the congested Bazar to buy about 5 kgs of beef for feeding to the crocodiles which is the culminating point of the fulfillment of the MANNAT. I handed over the meat to the attendants who were reluctant in the first place to go and feed the crocodiles with the pretext that this was not their feeding at 11.00 in the morning but a quick greasy buck did the trick and the attendant went in to the pond to feed the crocodiles on my behalf.

• The population of the crocodiles has increased.

• They were ill fed and in miserable conditions.

• Some had wounds and sours on their bodies.

• Their poundage area had decreased.

On my inquiry I found out that the Auqaf department was not paying any attention towards the upkeep, nurturing and look after of the crocodiles.

The Qabza mafia had taken over the area around the shrine and many hideous half baked concrete monsters in the form of disorganized shanty shops were masking the beauty of the shrine.

After feeding the crocodiles it was time for another ritual that was bathing in the warm sulfur spring water which emanates from the crevices in the rocks below the shrine.

I had to make my way pass the narrow steep alleys having the aroma of the fresh fried Pakora’s coming from both the sides. However I brushed aside the hunger pangs in my stomach and made my way towards the bathing enclosure.

This time there was a small entry ticket to the bathing arena where there was a crowd of people who were busy in dousing the sulphur water over their bodies. The sulphur springs of the shrine of Manghophir are famous for having a healing effect for skin diseases and joint pains. I also indulged in the luxury of dangling my feet in the water and washing my face with the warm sulphur water as I did about 5 years back which healed the white spots on my face.

our Heritage 34

Generally the water from the springs appears either light yellow-brownish or milky and sometimes emits a strong smell of rotten eggs but here the water was mild warm and had a light yellow coloring effect.

Limited oral intake can improve conditions such as constipation and diabetes, however oral ingestion should be avoided as the water may be contaminated. These springs are not suitable for inhalation therapy.

The minerals in the water have positive therapeutic effects on skin disease, women’s diseases, asthma, neuralgia, arteriosclerosis, rheumatism and shoulder, neck and wrist pains, they also have a detoxifying and mucolytic effect.

Sulfur is a mineral naturally occurring near hot springs and volcanic craters. The “rotten egg” smell of sulfur mineral baths is caused by sulfur dioxide gas escaping into the air. Sulfur has been used medicinally since ancient times, and it is contained in every cell in our body. It is a component of three different amino acids (the building blocks that make up protein).

Approximately 0.25 percent of our total body weight is sulfur. It is most concentrated in keratin, which gives you strong hair, nails, and skin. It is also known as “nature’s beauty

35 our Heritage

mineral” because your body needs it to manufacture collagen, which keeps your skin elastic and younglooking.

Sulfur is used primarily to ease the red, itchy rashes of conditions such as eczema and diaper rash. It also helps to protect your body against toxins in the environment. In addition, people with arthritis may find pain relief from taking a soothing bath in hot sulfur springs.

So if you are suffering from some skin disease or want some fulfillment of your earthly desire the next step should be your visit to the shrine of Manghophir where you will have your Mannat fulfillment and find a relief from the skin diseases which even the best skin specialist in the world cannot cure.

our Heritage 36

PAKISTAN THROUGH MEHDI'S LENS

AN INTERVIEW WITH PAKISTAN'S MOST TALENTED PHOTOGRAPHER Interview By Shazana Anwar It was an honor for being on the National Geographic Magazine and website. Moreover, Europe's popular magazine outdoor photography has published my photography. I am brand ambassador of Korean company Samyang in Pakistan which manufactures lens for professional cameras. I have been interviewed by PTV, Radio Pakistan, Voice of America, and various local TV channels. I am an executive member of Photographic Arts Society of Pakistan.

What do you do professionally and what was your area of study back in school and later?

By profession I am a computer network engineer. I have not studied professional photography, never had any formal training in art; it is just by intuition where I am today. But I do believe in improving God-gifted skills by learning. Moreover, I had been an avid reader since young age.

Through reading literature and fiction, you experience more than one life, you experience emotions you have not felt in real life, it enhances your imagination and observation, and it gives you depth. It has helped me a lot in nurturing my artistic skills in later years.

When did you start photography?

Were you inspired by someone else?

I did not choose to be a photographer; it came to me by chance. When I look back, I cannot mark any particular moment when I knew or I decided to pursue photography as an artist.

In 2005 I travelled to Gilgit for the first time.

I was and still am an emotional person, one day my father scolded me over something and in reaction to that, I left the home. I had some money in my pocket and the only thing on my mind was that I’ll not come back for few days. I intended to go to Islamabad but when I reached Rawalpindi I saw a bus ready for departure to Gilgit. I had seen pictures of Gilgit in calendars and National Geographic Magazine so I had an idea that the region would be beautiful and exciting.

Tourism Khanpur Lake

From Rawalpindi to Gilgit through the rugged mountains along the Karakoram road, it was thirty hours of fascinating journey. In Gilgit a Shimshali boy suggested me to visit Hunza and Nagar valleys. It was April, the sun was shining and when we reached Nilt from Gilgit, I found myself surrounded by a whole new spectrum of colours; I was truly mesmerised. The meadows,

plants laden with white, pink, and orange flowers could be found all over.

That was a fascinating experience.

When I came back and told my friends about that vibrant and colorful landscape, they did not believe me.

Just to assure my friends, next time I took camera. I came back from my next wilderness trip with something

more than just memories. It developed into a hobby and then passion. I had an initial success, people liked my pictures. And then I became hooked on nature photography, whatever the case or reason I shoot only landscapes, untouched by human hands. I have also worked on portraits and themes.

Now my photography has earned me a lot of love and respect from people.

My personal favorites are the classics but contemporaries are also working well. Galen Rowell, Chip Phillips and Mark Adams and Steve McCurry are my few favorites. In Pakistan, Razzaq Vance has done an incredible job on cultural and rural life. Nayyar Raza, M R Awaisi, Javed Qazi are few names, I would like to mention. These are the people who have brought this art to the highest international forums to introduce Pakistan.

our Heritage 38

You have traveled many places in Pakistan. Do you love to travel or is it photography that takes you to places?

Well, in my case, it was the other way round. It was travelling which took me to photography. I was fond of adventures and traveling. To keep the visual record of my memories I started photography and it developed into a hobby and then passion.

It is actually the surrounding environment at the time of shot which inspires me. It is on the location that the ideas struck me what I want to do and how.

Natural world is truly awe inspiring; witnessing the glory of nature can make your heart skip a beat. I just wanted to capture this incredible beauty and share it with others.

What is so special about the landscapes in Pakistan?

I’ll ask you in return, is there anything not so special about landscapes in Pakistan! Pakistan is bestowed upon with the most beautiful and glamorous landscape in the world. Pakistan is one of the

few countries with such a dynamic landscape; rivers, deserts, lakes, waterfalls, spring, glaciers we seem to have it all in great abundance.

It has paths to some of the world’s highest mountains that include K2, K3, and Gasherbrum. These towering mountains attract thousands of climbers from all over the world each year; some have even lost their lives in efforts to summit these steep climbs. Deosai is called the rooftop the world, its glacial region is said to be the third pole of the

39 our Heritage

earth. World's highest Polo ground.

Cold desert of Sakardu. It’s a land of numerous world heritage sights. It has Asia's largest birds sanctuary, Haleji Lake. Karakoram Highway is one of the wonders of the world.

It has the remains of the oldest civilization of the world, The Indus Civilization.

Unfortunately, most of Pakistanis are unaware of their land's scenic beauty.

Photography Pakistan Through Mehdi's Lens

There is something about North that keeps me drawing back again and again, so I end up there after every few months, Gilgit Baltistan in particular.

I am always impressed by the natural beauty. The people of the area are warm and loving, as they were centuries before. They are very cooperative and welcoming. There’s religious harmony in the region.

There are no security concerns; Gilgit Baltistan has the highest literacy ratio in Pakistan, so people there are much more civilized.

Tough roads lead to the most beautiful destination, what was your toughest destination to reach?

It was the track from Naran to Lake Saif-ul Malook. In summer it is in easy reach because of jeep track. But in winter after snowfall it is extremely difficult to cross this slippery track.

But it is worth it.

You capture most of your photos in Gilgit Baltistan, how is the experience with locals and what challenges you face during your stay?

Well, I myself being adventurous by nature, am prone to taking challenges. But tourists visiting there with families may find lack of urban and telecommunication facilities problematic. Road structure to the remote areas is bumpy so travelling in the region is of course not easy.

You are one of those people who portray the real and positive image of Pakistan, what is your message to the foreign tourists considering the current situation of the country?

Pakistan is the home of eight highest mountains of the world, it has deserts, most beautiful lakes of the

world, and its landscape is vibrant and fascinating. It should have been the hub and heaven of tourists but unfortunately it is not the case. We artists have tried to enhance the soft image of Pakistan but then regrettably, the political turmoil and security conditions has made it all worse. Even most of the Pakistanis are unaware of its geography.

To foreign tourists, I would like to say the areas are worth visiting during April and then autumn seasons, they will find the scenic beauty magical and spellbinding. And I would like to add, do not try to damage the natural beauty of the area, do visit but leave it untouched!

Where do you place Pakistani Photographers with International photography standards?

Well, they are getting professional degrees from art colleges and institutes now, but the matter is of hardwork not of skills, they lack patience and passion. There is a difference in being a photographer and being an artist. It is about your eagerness, curiosity, observation and sensitivity, like any other art. It’s about one’s approach, perspective and vision.

our Heritage 40

But there are few photographers who are doing excellent job in wildlife photography and nature with their obsessive passion and we can rank them on international photography standards for sure.

Is it the eye or expensive equipment behind the master shots?

It is not the camera but the eyes and mind behind the camera that take the master shots. Best photos are the one which tell stories, photos which capture something mysterious, some untold story, any fleeting moment or a passing mood. I look forward to show people a different world,

41 our Heritage

different than the one which they are used to of seeing, through my eyes and mind, the world as I see it. I share my vision of the world with my photos. I don’t believe in following any rules of composition, I shoot what looks right to me or what I feel. And I believe, with my creative vision, I look for a way to imprint my own personal mark on my photographs. It is like reinterpreting what you see and feel through your skills and camera.

But yes, of course, the equipment does assist you in getting your desired and perceived results.

Any word of advice to those who wish to take photography seriously?

3 Ps; Practice, Patience and Passion. Only best will suffice to get you noticed. Constantly engaging in the creative work will improve your technical and artistic skills and fuel your passion for creative photography. If you cannot nurture and sustain passion, you’ll get nowhere. And do not ever think that you can get a comparable amount of money from nature photography. If you want to make a living then you will have to treat your photography as a business!

Tourism Khanpur Lake

Marriott Hotel Karachi our Heritage 42

Naran Revisited

Naran remains to be one of the most scenic places in the world.

Written By: Fatima Khuzaima Haque

Naran remains to be one of the most scenic places in the world. Situated in the north of Pakistan it remains to be the seat of unsurpassed natural beauty. This is one place that beckons visitors to itself over and over again.

So, one who wishes to be with nature at its best and travel safe and enjoy the drive too, a brand new totally metalled double road can take the traveller straight from Lahore to Naran.

Travelling from Lahore, the seat of Punjab to the north is an experience in itself. From the fields from which wheat had just been harvested to the mountainous terrain, the variety that nature offers in this journey is a miracle in itself.

However, why particularly Naran?

Thousands have visited this vocation spot. Many have witnessed the serenity and the unruly waves of the Kunhar River. A lot of others have picnicked under the pine trees. Many have walked in the clouds and the mist that envelops the Naran valley.

Many have splashed icy water at their friends in the springs that abound every corner of the area. A lot of tourists have played on the slides on the cold glaciers and laughed their hearts out with their families. The tent city of Naran has sung lullabies to several travellers who have spent nights in its lap.

43 our Heritage

Still, Naran summons and attracts hundreds more: Some who visit is every year and others who have come here for the first time to unravel this jewel in the crown of Pakistan’s northern mountain terrain.

So what is the secret of this mysterious place, so popular and much loved by anyone who visits it even once? What is it that Naran has that none other place does? What is the formula to its popularity? Why is it the most loved destination for

national and international travellers?

The answer is simple yet most coveted. Naran has had a facelift. A change of its facial features mean that it has all the more to offer. Over the past one and a half year there has been a marked change like none

Tourism Naran Revisited

before. The road that leads to the majestic Lake Saif-ul-Malook is now metalled for its first kilometre. Here is where the new hotels and cottages have mushroomed. They are the new face of Naran. Thanks to these new places of shelter against the wintry nights, Naran has been given a new lease of life.

Over the years, the PTDC Hotel was the only wise choice for most tourists.

The numbered cottages on the bank of the Kunhar River were the only accommodation options available for several years. Bookings had to be made well in advance to travelling and many were refused because the space was so limited. Those who did manage to find bookings, felt top of the world and extremely lucky. However, everything has now changed for the better.

There has definitely been a sea change in the options for accommodations and rates available for those visiting.

An example of this are the Greywalls Mountain Huts and Cottages building structure, “a blend of local and craftsmanship� and Naran’s indigenous material. Also earthquake resistant and secure, this new hotel is a work labour of love by a yearly visitor who has for umpteen years been visiting Naran on a yearly basis and had finally found the perfect spot to

build a family of huts for the traveller who knows the worth of spending quality time with family in the most scenic of places on earth. The hotel even offers high speed Wi-Fi and the tastiest cuisine in town.

Apart from enjoying the scenic beauty, Naran offers quite a number of entertainment avenues for the eager tourist. For the adventurous the Kunar Rafting ride is one of the most enjoyable one that will make one scream with fear yet the guides are quite experienced and make one feel safe.

Definitely not for the weak, the twenty minute rafting experience will last you a lifetime. Organised by several groups, the one by The Adventure Foundation is quite a journey and well worth the money spent.

For a more peaceful ride, you make like to simply sit back in your car and

drive far on the road that to takes you to the north of Naran. The double road is safe and provides some of the most beautiful views where the mountains and the Kunhar River meet. Sporty pulley rides across the Kunhar River can take you from one side to the other where small tea stalls serve the best tea in town. The best part of the car drive are the numerous glaciers that one gets to drive through.

Simply amazing works of nature, their glaciers will suffice for the less adventurous travellers.

The old but much loved journey to the famous Saif-ul-Malook is still the most popular pilgrimage made by everyone visiting Naran. The road is as bumpy as it was twenty years back and the drivers every so brave and skilful to take a jeep-full of visitors to witness where the fairies come to swim. The guides still tell the tale with the same air of mystery of how the lake was formed and what the giant and the fairy did. Trust me one is never too late to listen to this story. So what is stopping you? Just pack your bags and drive to the heaven on earth.

our Heritage 44

Words & Pictures By Saifuddin Ismailji

Rivers are the key source of water – the spine of nations all around the world. Most of the ancient and bronzeage settlements that bear witness today in the forms of archeological sites and monuments and some of the world’s oldest civilizations laid existence by the bank of the rivers: the ancient civilization, from the footprints of Harappa (3300BC), Mohenjodaro (2500BC ) and Gandhara (1500BC) by the Hakra (now dried up) and Indus River, respectively; and the Sumerian civilization (5500BC) in Turkey and Iraq along the Rivers of Tigris and Euphrates to the Mesopotamia (5000 BC) and Egyptian (3000 BC) civilizations by the Nile River.

Along this belt of ancient civilization, people of these settlements developed a culture of agriculture, communication and trade and built capital cities by the river banks to sustain progress.

45 our Heritage

Heritage Rivers

Indus Basin Mohenjodaro & Harappan Civilizations: Monsoon fed Hakra River flourished Harappan civilization and life by the river brought prosperity to the people living in settlements from Yamuna valley, (now) Bahawalpur, Marot (Derawar) and stretches of settlements near the Indus. As the River dried up (between 2500BC – 2000BC), the Indus Valley Civilization (3300 – 1300 BC) rose by the banks of River Indus along the vast Indus basin with its capital at Mohenjodaro, about 430 kms (5 ½ hours) from the present day Karachi (Motorway N55). The evidence at the current archeology site of Mohenjodaro offers an insight into,

probably the most sophisticated first ever comprehensive civic living in urban area, complete with water wells and supply of water to the houses, sewerage system, roads and streets, shops (on ground level) and houses (above the shops), workshops, medical facility.

over 400 kinds of pictographs, jewelry and toys. Farming methods improved and a culture of farming developed, which was adopted in faraway places along the ancient civilizations belt by the rivers of Tigris, Euphrates and the Nile.

Upper Indus River Gandhara Civilization The Indus River that now flow southwards by the Attock Fort, once drenched the fertile plains south-east extending from Pushkalavati (present

Charsaddah), Poshupura (Peshawar) and Taxila. Gandhara kingdom (1500 BC – 5c AD).

Under the Maurian rule, led by Chandragupta Mauria and later, his grand-son Asoka; the construction of the Grand Trunk Road and tree-line along the avenues, medical facilities (the first Kunala eye hospital in the region) – the Gandhara kingdom had also become the center of art and literature and attracted students from as far as China. The Gandhara cities rose to its optimum glory (1c AD – 5c

The “Great Bath” excavated at the site was probably used as a recreation pool for the residents. A strong 5 million population of the Dravidian or ElamoDravidian language speaking people lived in the areas of the Indus plains.

New methods were developed in handicraft art and metallurgy. During excavation, some of the world’s oldest artwork acknowledged in various forms included a mini 11 cms long bronze sculpture of a “Dancing Girl”, seals made of steatite carved with

our Heritage 46

AD) during the time of the Kushan dynasty that included the reign of the great king Kanishka and had became known as the regional hub of art, literature and science. The refinement of Gandhara Art had no rivalry until Khemer art evolved in Far-east Asia (present day Cambodia), although in no comparison to finesse in details as seen in Gandhara art. One of the best specimens of Gandahara art in the sculpture of the “Fasting Buddha” preserved within the walls of the Lahore Museum.

Lower Indus River From Achaemenid to Mohammad Bin Qasim During the Persian Achaemenid Empire (522BC) to Muslim conquests (712), the easternmost, populous region that included part of today’s Sind province,

Uchchh and Multan were among the seven richest satrapies that extended the then southeast to northwest region of the Sub-Continent.

The fall of the Achaemenid Empire and the epic tales of battle between the forces of Alexander of Macedonia

and Raja (king) Poros on the banks of Hydaspes River (now Jhelum River), the panjnad area including Uchchh Sharif and Multan tells a multi hued history of clash of civilizations till the time (711AD) a Muslim leader from Syria: Mohammad Bin Qasim conquered the Indus region, stretching from present Sind (Bhambore) to Punjab (Multan) establishing Ummayad Empire. The conquest of Mahmud Ghaznavi extended vast regions of the Indian Sub-Continent extending the borders of Ghaznavid Empire into Kurdistan in the west of Yamuna River. The region came under rule by independent rulers to several regions until Babur marched from the Central Asia, crossing the Indus near Attock and followed the Grand Trunk road to central India to found the dominance of the Mughal dynasty in 1526.

During the reign of the Mughal kings: Akbar, Jehangir and Shajahan, Lahore was bejeweled with pieces such as the Badhsahi Masjid, Shalimar garden, Lahore Fort, the Baradari and Tomb of Jehangir by Ravi River.

Despite a never ending list of rivers and tributaries, today - the modern land of Pakistan seems subjected to water mismanagement, causing acute water shortage in some parts of the country – particularly Karachi, the economic hub of the country.

Listed under are the names of prominent rivers and fresh water drains of Pakistan: Indus River, Panjnad River, Chenab River, Ravi River, Sutlej River, Jhelum River, Ojh Nadi River, Poonch River, Kunhar River, Neelum River or Kishanganga Tawi River, Manawar Tavi River, Gomal River, Kundar River, Zhob River, Kurrum River or Karam River, Tochi River (Gambila River), Soan River, Ling stream, Haro River, Kabul River, Swat River, River Jindi, Panjkora River, Bara River, Kunar River, Skardu River, Lutkho River, Siran River, Tangir River, Astore River, Rupal River, Gilgit River, Hunza River, Naltar River, Hispar River, Shimshal River, Chapursan River, Misgar River, Khunjerab River, Ishkuman River, Yasin River, Satpara Stream, Shigar River, Braldu River, Shyok River, Saltoro River, Hushe River, Nubra River, Suru River, Dras River, Shingo River, Dasht River, Kech River, Basol River, Hingol River, Nal River, Porali River, Hub River, Orangi Nala, Malir River, Lyari River (drain), Gujjar Nala.

Tourism Khanpur Lake

our Heritage 48

By: Dr. Shaukat Mahmood

The Hindu classical literature gives us glimpses of the ancient history of the Gandhara valley. Mahabharata and Ramayana both throw light on the name of Pushkalavati (Lotus city) which to some historians was the ancient name of Peshawar.

Pushkalavati was the capital of ancient kingdom Gandhara from the 6th century BC, when it became an Achaemenid’s (550-330 BC) local capital to 2nd century AD. Some other researchers believe that Pushkalavati is the ancient name of Charsadda. Interestingly the name Pushkalavati phonetically seems closer to Peshawar than Charsadda.

There is a third version also. The ancient city named Pushkalavati, founded by Bharata’s son Pushkal, from the Indian epic Ramayana,

49 our Heritage

may have existed in this area during early Indo-Iranian times. Yuyudhana uncle of Bharata advised Rama to conquer the country on both sides of Indus which was in the possession of the Gandharvas and Bharata son of Rani Kekai accordingly set out from Ayodhya with a large army accompanied by his two sons. Bharata and Yuyudhana combined conquered the country about the Indus and Bharata’s sons founded the two towns of Takshashila and Pushkalavati in the two regions on either side of the Indus. These two towns are well known in Greek history as Taxila and Peukhlaoti. Though Taxila is a world renowned site nothing is known about Peukhlaoti.

The city that would become Peshawar called Purushapura, was actually founded by the Kushans (circa 2nd century BC-3rd century AD), a Central Asian tribe, over 2,000 years ago. Prior to this period the region was affiliated with Gandhara and was annexed first by the Persian Achaemenid Empire (550-330 BC) and then the Macedonian empire of Alexander (336-323BC). The city passed into the rule of Alexander’s successor, Seleucus I Nicator (306281BC) who ceded it to Chandragupta Maurya (340-298BC), the founder of the Indian Maurya Empire. The inhabitants of Peshawar were mostly Hindus and Buddhist before the arrival of Islam.

Buddhism and Hinduism was introduced into the region at this time and that where the majority of Peshawar’s inhabitants before the coming of Islam.

Heritage Peshawar

Buddhist pilgrim monk, Faxian (337422 AD), who visited it in 400 and described it as being over 40 chang in height (probably about 120 m. or 394 ft.) and adorned “with all precious substances”. “Of all the stûpas and temples seen by the travelers, none can compare with this for beauty of form and strength.” It was destroyed by lightning and repaired several times. It was still in existence at the time of Xuanzang’s visit in 634.

The area that Peshawar occupies was then seized by the GrecoBactrian king Eucratides I (circa 170-159 BCE), and was controlled by a series of Greco-Bactrian kings.

It was later held for some time by several Indo-Parthian kings, the most famous of whom, Gondophares (Gondophares I was representative of the House of Suren in Balochistan as well as founder and first king of the Parthian Kingdom and dynasty), was still ruling circa 46 CE, and was briefly followed by two or three of his descendants before they were displaced by the first of the “Great Kushans”, Kujula Kadphises (30-80 AD), around the middle of the 1st century.

Peshawar formed the eastern capital of the empire of Gandhara under the Kushan emperor Kanishka I (exact dates not available) who reigned from at least 127 CE and, perhaps, for a few years prior to this. Peshawar also became a great centre of Buddhist learning.

Kanishka built what was probably the tallest building in the world at

the time, a giant stupa, to house the Buddha’s relics, just outside the Ganj Gate of the old city of Peshawar.

Kanishka’s stupa was said to be an imposing structure as one travelled down from the mountains of Afghanistan onto the Gandharan plains. The earliest account of the famous building is by the Chinese

Sometime in the 1st millennium BCE (or perhaps much earlier), the group that now dominates Peshawar began to arrive from the Suleiman mountains to the south and southwest, the Pakhtuns. It is debatable as to whether or not the Pakhtuns existed in the region even earlier as evidence is difficult to attain. Some writers such as Sir Olaf Caroe (Sir Olaf Kirkpatrick Kruuse Caroe KCSI KCIE was an administrator in British India. He later became a writer on the Middle East and Asia, 1892-1981), writes that a group that may have been the Pakhtuns existed in the area and were called the Paktye by Herodotus (484425), earlier along with other IndoIranian tribes.

Peshawar is famous for producing a variety of celebrities including several Bollywood top stars to name a few Dilip Kumar, Madhubala, Amjad Khan, Prithviraj Kapoor, Raj Kapoor, Vinod Khanna, and Shah Rukh Khan. They were all born in Peshawar. The list of sportsmen that were born in this great city are Hashim Khan, former British Open squash champion, Younis Khan, Pakistani Cricketer, Jahangir Khan, former World No. 1 squash player, Aamir Atlas Khan, Pakistan Squash Player, Shahid Khan Afridi, Pakistani Cricket Team’s captain, Jansher Khan, former squash world champion, Umar Gul, cricketer, Yasir Hameed, cricketer, Qamar Zaman, Squash Player.

our Heritage 50

Among the other famous people who were born in Peshawar are much Abdur Rab Nishtar, Leader in Pakistan Movement & First Governor of Punjab, Pakistan, Ghulam Muhammad Qasir, Urdu poet, Farhatullah Babar, Pakistan Peoples Party, Ismail Gulgee, artist, General Yahya Khan, President and Commander in Chief and Pakistan Army, Mulk Raj Anand, Indian writer

in English, Patras Bokhari, Urdu humourist, Rahimullah Yusufzai, journalist, Rahman Baba, Pashto poet, and Sahibzada Abdul Qayyum, Founder Islamia College.

Very few people know that Peshawar once, like Lahore, was known as city of gardens. Amongst these landmarks of horticulture were Sayyid ka Bagh, it was laid in 1651. Shahi Bagh that was also called Shalamar Bagh is attributed to Ali Mardan Khan, the hydraulic engineer who built the water

system of Shalamar Bagh at Lahore.

Another garden is name after Ali Mardan Khan.

The fourth famous garden was that the one known as Wazir Bagh. It was laid in 1802.

The architectural heritage of Peshawar has its own excellent register, record and history. I shall write about the architectural heritage of Peshawar separately.

Tourism Khanpur Lake

Pearl-Continental Muzaffarabad our Heritage 52

This time my training activities took me to interior Sindh, my first port of call was Hyderabad. The early morning traffic was light otherwise it would have taken me much longer time during the day.

I first headed towards Tando Allahyar which is located about 3 hours drive from Karachi crossing GADAP and Bharia city early in the morning.

Crossing Tando Jam in the morning at about 0900 am the green fields could be seen on either side with the sugar cane plantations popping out of the fields ready to be harvested by the farmers.

It was on Friday 30th January 2015 at about 0600 am that I checked out early from my hotel room had DOODPATTI at a Khoka on a wayside restaurant and headed towards KUMBH city on Nawabshah road which is also known as Sui gas city because of the branching of the sui gas pipe line from this area into Punjab where the bifurcation valves are located.

I was headed to Sakrand on the main highway from where we had to turn towards Nawabshah road. The Banana plantations could be seen on either side but my speed was hampered by truckers who move at a slow speed on the right side of the road and try to overtake each other thus causing the traffic to come to a standstill. Early in the morning the dew can be seen on the fields coupled with fog in the atmosphere reminding me of William WORDSWORTH and his love for nature.

Driving at a high speeds on such roads with odd truckers impeding the way and acting like speed breakers is like throwing caution to the wind.

As I was driving towards Khairpur Mirus I noticed a very big fort on the right side of the road situated high up on a hillock perched there like a Sentinel and my adventurous spirit instigated me to venture out and have a first look at the fort.

Low and behold after traversing a dirt road for about 15 minutes I reached

53 our Heritage

Heritage Kot Diji Fort

the base of the Kot Diji Fort. This is also known as Fort Ahmadabad, so named after the architect who built this fort and is about 25 miles east of the Indus River at the edge of the Nara-Rajisthan Desert. The fort was built between 1785 to 1795 by Mir Sohrab Khan Talpur, founder of the Kingdom of Upper Sindh in 1783. In addition to the fort, a 5 kilometer, 12 feet wide mud wall was built making it a walled city. This defensive wall had bastions throughout its length and a huge iron gate served as the city’s only entrance.

from two levels: from the battlement on top and from within the wall.

The fort was considered invincible and served as the residence of the Emirs of Khairpur in times of peace. During war time the female members of the royal family were shifted to Shahgarh Fort, formerly within the kingdom but since 1843, after the conquest of the rest of Sindh, it is in the Thar and Jaisalmer desert, now in India.

Throughout its whole history, however, Fort Kot Diji was never attacked.

This fort was built at the edge of the desert for vantage point and provided an advantage over enemies marching from the east, because an exhausted army could be intercepted before it could take fresh supplies and water from the irrigated lands. The MIRWAH canal was built in 1790 specifically to irrigate the lands west of the fort and bring water to the military base and also acting as a man made obstacle for impeding the advance of the enemy forces.

The construction of Kot Diji was done on practical grounds from a limestone hill from nearby from which kilnbaked bricks were used because the locally available limestone rock was very brittle and would have shattered easily on impact with a cannonball. The hill is about 110 feet high, above which the walls of the fort rises another 30 feet. It has three strategically placed towers about 50 feet tall.

The fort is over half a kilometer long and its walls are segmented by about 50 mainstay citadels and its outer

The fort was built at a time when cannons had just become common and its design and position revealed that it included a multitude of stations for cannon position very high on a narrow ridge so that the enemy cannons would have to fire from a great distance with little accuracy.

Enemy Cannonballs could either hit the hill or perimeter or would simply fly over the fort and fall on the enemies’ own forces on the other side.

perimeter a 1.8 kms wall identically follows the double crescent-shaped contours of the hill on which its stands.

This was done to fortify the fort and surround the attacking enemy on three sides on the west front. On the east, where the entrance lies, the fort is divided by three elephant-proof gates into three overlapping levels, so that the first two levels if breeched then the third level can be the main stay of thwarting the attack in the event of the lower level being overrun by the enemy. The first gate is rather an indirect entry so that the gate cannot be rammed on a charge. When I approached the main gate I noticed big iron pointed pike staff protruding from the wooden walls so that elephants could not ram the gates.

The purpose of building this fort was to act as a central military base for the Talpur Kingdom, and especially to resist the Afghan invasion. It was the strongest of the 20 forts built by the Talpurs forts and took about 30 years to build according to local folklore.

The bastions had arrow slits in them, allowing defenders to attack their enemy

our Heritage 54

In 1955 the State was merged with Pakistan, and the fort could have been included with the personal property of the Mir of Khairpur. However, Mir Ali Murad II thought it appropriate to hand it over to the government of Pakistan, expecting better maintenance and look after. Since that time the fort has fallen into serious disrepair and is presently in a derelict condition.

Most of the lime mortar plaster has fallen of the walls, leaving the bricks exposed. During the time of president Mohammad Ayub Khan, 192 cannons and mortars located at the fort were stolen or destroyed by being thrown from the bastions.

55 our Heritage

Other decorative fixtures and fittings have been stolen as well.

As a social activist and an ecologist my heart laments and weeps over the pathetic conditions in which our archeological sites are lying in ruins, may be the department of archeology is in a deep slumber and has to be woken up with the jolt.

I appeal to the philanthropist and all patriotic people of Pakistan to come forward and help preserve our rich cultural heritage.

Ask yourself this question what sort of a Pakistan are we leaving for our future generations?

Heritage Kot Diji Fort

Pearl-Continental Karachi Pearl-Continental Karachi

our Heritage 56

By: Khuzaima Fatima Haque

This year, Karachi witnessed a mix of fun, thrill and magic at The Great Pakistani Circus Amidst loud thumps of music and twinkling lights, a jolly, well-loved, energetic host, Nadeem Jaffery, walks into a big arena of the Karachi Metropolitan Corporation Sports Club. With a complete macho-man magician look with long hair and a beard he sings the catchy official

circus song and one can see the crowd getting excited for The Great Pakistani Circus. This is just the beginning. What is yet to come is something the local audience has probably never witnessed.

A first of its kind in Karachi, the circus was put up as a great entertainment event for Karachites. Starved for quality entertainment, the circus proved one thing – that - the simple things in life can give the greatest of pleasure. A circus, for ages, has been a means of entertainment for all alike. It has successfully entertained generations all over the world. The idea to rekindle memories associated with circuses taking place in the past and bringing this tradition back to the forefront, albeit with a fairly new format, was sure to get an excited audience onboard. Bringing the very young, the young, the adults and the old, all on one platform, The Great Pakistani Circus proved to be a high for families where they sat together to experience fun-filled evenings.

Running two shows every evening, the first from 7:30 in the evening to 9 pm and a second from 9:30 to 11 in the

57 our Heritage

night, the circus comprised of a great team of national and international performers. It had a total of sixteen playacts with each spread over a maximum of ten minutes. Right at the beginning of the show, the scene was set in great detail. The circus arena, right in the centre of the stadium, was all lit-up for special effects.

The velvety red curtain, that is the tradition of circuses around the world for ages, had been put up on one side.

It is here that the performers enter the main arena. The stadium itself, a rather large place could house nearly up to three thousand people. Amidst this, a special school enclosure had also been earmarked. Many schools of Karachi did take up the opportunity

Entertainment The Great Pakistani Circus

to bring their students and even parents to the event, thanks to the management who had offered them a slightly discounted rate on mass bookings.

The Great Pakistani Circus offered a variety of performances with performers who had come all the way from Thailand, Ukraine and Russia and had shared the stage with their counterparts from the Lucky Irani Circus group.

What followed was a mix of mesmerizing aerial shows to displays of strength with iron to tricks of magicians and jugglers and limbo dances to dogs and pony shows. The mantra of the circus was “fun, thrill and magic� and each performance did justice to this.

Additionally, it is true that no circus is complete without a circus clown and his tricks and so was the case with this event.

The looks of surprise and squeaks of laughter from the children in the audience simply showed how they loved to see the clown on stage performing his pranks.

Meanwhile,

the gymnastics and acrobatic performances by the performers were a real highlight of the show.

The Dental Power, a group-act by an entire family made the audience gasp in excitement as the entire group of performers from very young to much older in age came on stage in their black and silver suits. Their act showed the strength of their teeth and to what extent they could use their dental power to pull heavy objects as well as do acrobats and glide on the rope using their teeth.

The audience also enjoyed the dog show. As loud music blared through the arena, dogs of all sizes and varieties came dancing up the stage and did lots of tricks to amuse the audience. From the short young Russian puppy to the rather ferocious

Labrador, each dog had a special act to perform and together they made up a group of the most energetic enticing dogs in the city at the moment.

Another highlight of the evening was the chimpanzee show and the jumping and juggling done by the animals.

All in all, The Great Pakistani Circus did showcase the talent and energetic spirit of the performers. Kudos to the management who put together the show and kudos to the performers to take it forward day in and day out twice every evening. The circus act with its electrifying performances successfully provided entertainment for each family member present at the occasion. Not only did it show that the performers had tremendous skill and coordination, but that the management was loyal in its aim to provide good clean entertainment to Karachites.

After the response it has received in Karachi, the circus also plans to go to Lahore and Islamabad in the near future.

our Heritage 58

Khanpur Lake a turquoise water reservoir nestled in Himalayas

By Tahir Imran Khan

The picturesque Khanpur Lake is one of the most scenic and loveliest places in Pakistan and would match any famous place throughout the world

59 our Heritage

Tourism Khanpur Lake

Pakistan has numerous venues for various adventure and outdoor activities. There are loftiest snow clad peaks like K2 and Nanga Parbat crowning Karakorams & Himalayas and in contrast miles and miles of coastal areas of Arabian Sea in Sind & Baluchistan provinces. The range of possible activities includes air, mountain, land & water, which may attract adventure enthusiasts from all over the world.

Water based or aqua activities are one of the most interesting worldwide but unfortunately, as in several other disciplines, this area of activities is not tapped properly and no planning made or any training opportunities available. For various activities, there are some efforts on private or personal level to promote however there is a huge vacuum and great margin of development & improvement.

It is simply all over the world to use natural resources and places like sea, river or lakes are most attractive and alluring for visitors. In Pakistan, for example, Karachi, the largest metropolitan city of the country has seaside but for decades there were no proper resorts or hotels with view of sea. Similarly, M-2 part of Motorway running from Islamabad to Lahore crosses three major rivers, Jhelum, Chenab and Ravi and also Kallar Kahar lake but all rest areas are constructed at a little distance from these places. Selecting a place with view of a river or lake would be simply splendid and would attract people but it’s strange that this aspect is neglected while landscaping of the project.

Apart from various places of world like vast lakes of Switzerland, Pokhara in Nepal in one such place with three lakes nearby the city. There are several activities offered around and tourists flock there to enjoy. Islamabad is also blessed with natural beauty and besides forested hills of Margallas in foothills of Himalayas; there are three lakes in the vicinity of the capital i.e. Simli, Rawal and Khanpur.

Khanpur, located in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa district, is a small town near Islamabad only at a distance of 50 kilometers, adjacent to Taxila.

Khanpur is a tiny dwelling developed near the picturesque man-made lake serving as a water reservoir to cater water supply even to Islamabad across the Margalla Hills, besides being used for domestic use, for irrigation and nearby industrial areas. Selection of venue for Khanpur Dam has an interesting though controversial history; however it was completed in 1983 using the natural location on Haro River.

The picturesque Khanpur Lake is one of the most scenic and loveliest places in Pakistan and would match any famous place throughout the world.

However its unique and wonderful tourism potential is hardly realized and the only roadside bank is being used by local vendors supplying basic provisions in poor manner. In past years there started some water activities like boating and jet skiing, mostly on locally manufactured machinery.

Khanpur Lake carries great potential for a variety of activities, including rowing, canoeing sailing, jet skiing, para-sailing, snorkeling, scuba diving, angling, swimming and cliff diving.

Some nonaqua activities at Khanpur include paragliding, rock climbing, abseiling, hiking and bird watching while for people interested in history, the remains of Gandhara are spread all around as Taxila was one of the major centers of Buddhism.

A few years ago, Khanpur Lake got importance by the efforts of some individuals and a couple of reasonably good resorts started offering accommodation & meals facilities.

Lake View Motel on the Eastern side of the lake was the pioneer while another

our Heritage 60

Gandhara resort is also operational now. Besides these two places, there is a motel run by Pakistan Tourism in Taxila and an old building of Youth Hostel.

Among the target shooting, Archery and Air Gun Shooting would be interesting, though in first attempts your arrows or pellets may go stray

With some facilities for visitors, the tourism started to increase while various interesting activities also added and now people may enjoy Archery, Air Gun shooting and quad bikes etc. Now, Khanpur Lake is getting popularity, especially on weekends people rush there to enjoy activities of their interest.

Paragliding and Parasailing are two exciting activities for which Khanpur Lake is ideal. There are some lovely low hills around the lake, where there are good slopes for taking off to enjoy a splendid flight by a simple wing, without any machine or technical system plus some good landing areas are there to land after a short flight.

Mainly a summer resort, Khanpur Lake is a lovely destination for day trippers on weekends. An action packed day at Khanpur may be designed to reach there visiting Taxila museum en-route. On arrival, it would be extremely interesting to take a boat ride through turquoise green waters of the lake to reach the ideally located resort on the other bank of the lake. A refreshing cup of tea would be soothing and after a brief rest, one can go to a distant place through jet boats for Cliff Diving.

Cliff Diving is one of the most thrilling and interesting activities, even for the people without knowledge or skills of swimming. The boat ride finishes after a picturesque journey with lovely scenery on the both sides of the lake. On this selected place, the water is quite deep and clean and putting on a life jacket for safety makes you ready to jump in green lagoon. However for novice swimmers, it’s a bit scary but under supervision of a trained leader it’s safe and once jumped into water, it would be a lifetime thrilling experience. Now it depends on weather, available time and your stamina that how long you stay there, before you start return ride where other interesting activities are available.

61 our Heritage

manufactured water scooters and second imported Super Jet Skis. Both machines are available on different rates; however the locally made scooters are also good for beginners and people without good control to drive the vehicle.

but after some practice, you may be lucky to target the bull’s eye.

Another cup of tea in hurry waits as water scooters are waiting for you to enjoy Jet Skiing. There are two types of machines available, first locally

Parasailing is another sport with aerial activity which is extremely interesting and thrilling. The person doing the activity is tied with a huge canopy which is tied through cords and harness, while a motor boat pulls and after dragging for few meters, the canopy of Parasail gets inflated and the person in harness takes off from ground and then the enjoyment is beyond words. After touching the sky, landing is possible in two ways, first to land on ground, which needs proper training while landing in water is more interesting as the motor boat slows down and the tensed cords get loose and slowly the pilot start coming down and finally dips in water.

Tourism Khanpur Lake

Khanpur Lake, being an ideal and extremely scenic place with unparalleled views while flying in air, had been a perfect place for both Paragliding and Parasailing activities.

Very unfortunately both activities were banned at the lake, saying that aerial activities may prove as a security threat to military installations and the slowly developing sports were stopped at this lovely place. Now, people go further to a small place near Haripur called as Mung for Paragliding.

Bird watching is another interesting activity around the lake, mainly in early morning however one can found several local birds easily, even in daytime which include bee eaters, black drongo, hoopoe, tree pie, crow, sparrows, herons, egrets, lapwigs, white owl, kites, falcons, hawks, treepies, magpies etc.

In historical attractions, Bhamala Stupa is located at the east of the lake, besides several excavated Buddhist sites in Khanpur and Taxila. Jaulian monastery on the top of a hillock has been the center of learning and carries extremely significant status in Buddhism.

Students from all over the world use to come there to study and excel in various subjects, not only religion and Jaulian was considered as one of the universities of that era.

A trip to this charming place, at the foot of lower Himalayan hills of Margallas is marvelous to make on a weekend where you can try your luck to catch a fish while Angling or to taste a fresh and well cooked Fish from a restaurant. with the possibility of multiple activities at and around the Khanpur Lake, camping is also very interesting at the banks of the lake. The area is the property of WAPDA and there is an ideally located rest house well, which can be booked in advance with permission from WAPDA. However, camping at an open place also needs permission but if selected in the premises of one of the two resorts, it’s safe and better.

The end of the day at lake offers another superb opportunity as the phenomena of sunset is exceptionally mesmerizing and with all activities at one of the most scenic places, it becomes an ultimate choice for photographers as well besides attracting nature lovers and adventure enthusiasts.

our Heritage 62

By: Aftab Rana Indus basin was once rich with a variety of wildlife that includes migratory and resident birds, mammals, reptiles and fish. Over time the population and diversity of wildlife is shrinking due various factors of human interventions. Many species are facing prospects of extinction. The once large populations of crocodiles, Alligators, Otters and many fish species have dwindled to isolated pockets. The most serious threat is being faced by a unique specie, the Indus River dolphin.

63 our Heritage

Most dolphins and whales occur only in the salty water of the world’s oceans. However, there are four specially adapted dolphin species which have evolved to live only in freshwater river systems. The Indus River dolphin (Platanista minor) or locally known as Bulhan occurs only in the Indus River in Pakistan. It is also known as Indus blind dolphin as it is functionally blind due to its unique adaptation to living in turbid river environment over the long period of time.

Historically the dolphins were found right from the Indus estuary up into the foothills of the Himalayas. At present these dolphins occur only in small populations which have been separated by impassable barrages across the Indus River. The current distribution range of the Indus River dolphin comprises of 1500 km from Jinnah Barrage to Kotri Barrage. It is estimated that there are around 1400 Indus dolphins remaining in Pakistan.

The species is listed as “Endangered” by the World Conservation Union

Environment Indus Dolphin

River Indus is now the last habitat of the Indus blind dolphin, which is facing serious threats.

It is an internationally threatened mammal.

Almost impenetrable barrages have carved up its home range so that it has virtually no room to move along the great span of river that was once its home territory.

The waters of the Indus are polluted by human activity as it runs its tremendous course to the ocean. The dolphin has to compete with man for the fish that forms an essential part of its diet. Occasionally the river dolphin is trapped in fishing nets, which can mean death for the mammal. More over dolphins are being killed due to lack of awareness among the local communities.

Sustainable Tourism Foundation Pakistan (STFP) a non-profit organization dedicated to the promotion of Eco-friendly tourism in

Pakistan has launched an ecotourism project with the help of NRSP-USAID Small Grants and Ambassador’s Fund Program for seeking fishermen community and general public support for the conservation of unique Indus Blind Dolphin through the promotion of community based ecotourism in the area of Taunsa Barrage on River Indus in southern Punjab.

local fisher communities, concerned stakeholders and general public to minimize the threats through the mass awareness campaign. The group organizes community meetings in various villages along the river and creates awareness among locals of the area about the uniqueness of Indus dolphin and need for its conservation.

Under this initiative of conservation of Indus Dolphin through a community based Ecotourism at Taunsa Barrage a fishermen social enterprise has been established by STFP. This social enterprise is working to create awareness about the protection of Indus River Dolphin among the

In order to engage local community in conservation of Indus Dolphin in an effective way, STFP is promoting the concept of ecotourism through this project. Ecotourism is a special concept which promotes an environmentally friendly, culturally sensitive tourism and it is designed in a way that the

Photography By: Zahoor Salmi and Aftab Rana

our Heritage 64

maximum economic benefit of such tourism activity could reach to the local community. Under the project efforts are being made to build the capacity of local community to improve their services and skills to deal with nature loving tourists who are willing to come for dolphin watching, bird watching and having unique experience of rural life of South Punjab in organized groups from main cities of Pakistan and from abroad.

The nature tourists who come here to have a unique experience of ecotourism along River Indus are provided boat safari trips on traditional boats for dolphin watching by the local boatmen. The tourists are served local traditional home cooked food and they stay in camping site which is managed by the trained local service providers who are members of this social enterprise. They are also taken on guided village tour to provide experience of rural lifestyle and sightseeing to their guest. Bird

65 our Heritage

watching is an other attraction as the nearby area of Taunsa Wildlife Sanctuary is an ideal place for bird watching. In the evening the guests are also entertained with the local folk music and songs while sitting

around the bonfire. The project also encourage local community to preserve their own traditional way of life and helps promote their crafts such as basketry, embroidery and Rali making work by improving the skills of

Environment Indus Dolphin

local women in developing traditional stuff souvenir for tourists. The income from sale of these products directly goes to the women folk and greatly contributes in their day to day expenses. STFP has also created a website www.indusdolphin.org to provide updated information on the conservation efforts for Indus Dolphin and to promote ecotourism in the project area.

Through local community involvement and empowerment the project is not only fostering community-based “stewardship” for the conservation of Indus Dolphin and also providing alternate source of income to the fishermen through ecotourism. The income from the ecotourism program is an incentive and reward for the poor fishermen community and it encourage them to be friendlier with Indus River dolphin and play active

role to conserve one of the most unique species living in the world today.

About the Author Mr. Aftab Rana is professionally associated with tourism industry since 1988. He is a well-known figure in public and private sector due to his pioneering efforts for the promotion of youth tourism, adventure tourism and ecotourism in Pakistan. He has extensively traveled throughout the country and abroad and has vast experience of tourism product development, tourism planning and policy formulation. Presently, he is working with STFP as its CEO and he has also worked with USIAD’s Firms Project and I-LED Project as a Tourism Development Specialist and led the process of revival of tourism

in Kaghan Valley and Swat Valley after the disaster of 2005 earthquake. He has also worked with the government of KPK and Gilgit Baltistan to develop regional tourism policy and framework for the public-private partnership in tourism sector. He has served Adventure Foundation Pakistan as Director General and has contributed number of landmark projects for the youth and educational tourism in Pakistan.

He has received a number of awards including Commonwealth Asia Award for Excellence in Youth Work, the Trainer of The Year Award from the South Asia Tourism Human Resource Development Project (SATHRDP) and Better Pakistan-2010 Excellence Award in the field of Tourism. He is also a Fellow of Leadership for Environment and Development (LEAD).

our Heritage 66

By: Tahir Imran Khan

That day we covered a distance normally treaded in two days by trekkers; mountaineers are usually in urgency to reach the Base Camp. It was 4th of August 1985, afternoon, when we reached Broad Peak Base Camp. Pakistan Army team was already there and I went to see them where I was warmly welcomed by Colonel Akram with lunch offer. I could not resist the pleasing idea as I was hungry and had not taken native food for a week. Colonel asked the cook to prepare bread for me and rewarm curry - and then story of my “eating” started; in the words of Colonel: “Cook kept on cooking and Jabbar kept on eating.”

67 our Heritage

Adventure A Summit Uncelebrated

Weather stayed continuously bad, when, on 8th night, skies seemed changing and the leader announced move next morning. Plan was to climb Broad Peak in alpine style taking four days, while preparing for seven days. That included two camps and a bivouac on return. We were to carry sufficient clothing and other climbing and camping gear, making 25 Kilogram per member.

9th August was clear and promising.

Early morning eight Japanese and myself were ready to move with heavy backpacks. Mountain slopes were yet under dark, skies changing to blue,

sunlight still behind the ridges and I was trying to estimate the difference of climb from Masherbrum where we had been for seven weeks. Because insulation provided by clothing was being neutralized by heavy rucksack, I was feeling severe cold on my back, when we started with full fervor.

Across the camp we crossed an ice cold glacier stream, for which we found a narrow part; the site was already fixed with rope for safety. Then passing through ice seracs, crossing

crevasses, we reached at the junction of Godwin Austin and broad peak west glaciers.

There we were welcomed by an old dead body secured in sleeping bag, a western mountaineer who died and was buried in a crevasse. At the start of climb, we took route over glacier through its right edge, covered with deep snow, and negotiating a steep snow field, climbed over the spur, joining the conventional route to camp 1, snowless and loaded with lose stones. Thereafter refreshing with water we continued our climb over snow upward and then turning right

for a long traverse over snow field, to reach the shoulder; conventional camp 1. Area is continuously under threat of rock fall and dangerous. Quite a few times I could hear sharp shrilling sound of falling stones, passing aside like a missile. Then turning left up and climbing over snow and rocks surmounted the sharp ridge covered with lose stones at an altitude of 6400 meters in the evening, for a night halt.

On 10th August we started well before sun rise for the next halt

planned at an altitude of 7500 meters. After negotiating a mixed slope we were again on a vast deep snow field Traversing left to right and climbing ice and snow mixed wall on the right edge of the face we entered physiological death valley, un-acclimatized individual cannot survive in atmosphere above 7000 meters. When we were at 7100 meters, weather was too unsafe to proceed further, so we halted there.

Assault was now under compromise, because of a lower assault point, but we refused to change our schedule and opted for challenging the limits – a test of fitness, endurance and determination.

Next day, leaving maximum of our stuff there, we set off just after midnight. For expected bivouac, we, 9 climbers were having only 2 mattresses and 2 outer tent flies.

It was a dark night and we were using lamps. When we were around 7500M, I felt discomfort in my hands - apparently everything was fine, gloves were new and right for the temperatures. I thought to wait for a bit more so to have sunrise and a relatively better atmosphere – removing the gloves could mean frost bite and loss of hands. Then during a break, taking all precautions, I removed the gloves. Ooops, the hands swollen and dark blue, first sight was awful, lest it progressed and I had to give up when closer to target.

This thought made my heart sinking, head whirling and legs trembling but soon fear vanished when I realized that it was getting normal and the cause discovered as tight wrist bands; “a basic mistake”, I recalled.

I replaced the gloves with “old the gold” and extra over mittons. And we continued……...

At about 2:00pm, we could reach the saddle between central and main peaks, at 7800 meters. Again blizzard

our Heritage 68

started and we had to stop further climb because the route ahead was too insecure in strong winds and white out. What next? .... 4 stronger members would stay at saddle to have better chances of success, where as other 5 members to lose some height and wait for better conditions, so second team retreated and prepared bivouac at 7600 meters.

Temperature at night was hardly above minus 40⁰C added with wing chill, that too without sleeping bag and tent.

We erected the fly using snow poles tucking its edges with snow. We were sitting on single sleeping mattress and started collecting water and preparing herbal tea. For me it was cup of water with one biscuit, I took.

We were sitting and waiting, outside seemed still stormy and time was next day 1:00am, when all wanted to sleep…..”sleep…how?” I murmured.

Then, I put my rucksack under my back, seat already on mattress, spread my legs in snow and tried to snooze.

But we could hardly sleep because of biting cold and high altitude. it was now 12th August and we were 1 day behind our plan, so to catch time we left for the summit around 2:00am,

69 our Heritage

leaving the bivouac gear at site. We reached saddle climbing on fresh, deep and steep snow slope. After which we turned right; climb was very difficult and dangerous.

Imagine; the altitude above 7800 meters, knife ridge, endless steep slopes on right and left, open rocks with sporadic snow, crampons on and physical conditions badly deteriorated. A single careless move could cost one’s life. But proximity to summit and willpower were countering all fear, more over confidence through training also played its role. ”We must continue for the goal”.

Now, I could see a snow top and then a glimpse of our advance team. For time I believed, that was the summit as members were waving excitingly and that was the highest point, visible. But soon, my joy dissipated - that was a false ridge. There, we had a break together and

advance team briefed us so elatedly.

When we started the climb again, my buddy Mr. Tatsua was having fever and unable to continue…as he told me. I tried to encourage him “It is so near and I may carry your extra luggage, if that will do?” He accepted my offer and I shifted extra luggage to mine. So we continued. Now we were on western face and a mixed wall awaiting us, but our lead team had already done the job, rope was fixed in the gully. I wished that it could be last effort…., but another deception.

Now, our leading members were not visible. The path turned right, ascending gradually, a long wavy ridge with snowy slope in west and endless vertical wall in the east, skies overcastted and total whiteout. It was quite discouraging, strong winds were making it impossible to climb the last few meters in negligible visibility, “we have to continue”, I told myself.

Concerned about summit and safety, every other moment I would look at Tatsua; moving alright and quietly.

Corniced ridge on left and a visible patch of snow sloping right under our feet…. only land marks we were following, progressing with a snail

Adventure A Summit Uncelebrated

speed…few steps and a break.

Then appeared three shadows in the clouds, I could not believe, we could catch them, “that may be end of our climb” I stirred my head and continued towards them. They greeted us waving their arms but I could understand none of the words they uttered. Deadly tired but I wanted to celebrate the summit. I was thinking to remove my backpack and have summit time when I heard the executive order of the leader, Dr. Shin Kashu, “we are already there for quite a while and staying further can be fatal under these conditions, move down immediately”. All thoughts got evaporated and like a robot I turned about and followed the leader.

“FIRST ASCENT AT BEGINNING OF MY MOUNTAINEERING CAREER”

After another bivouac night at 7600M, we reached base camp on 14th August, evening, following conventional route; abseiling through couloir where water wetted us head to toe and Tatsua and myself were hit by a falling stone.

•

Completed mountaineering courses in Pakistan and France

•

He has a number of mountaineering expeditions to his credit, leading national and international teams

Dr. Abdul Jabbar Bhatti

• Climbed Broad Peak 8047m,

Gasherbrum II 8035m & Spantik 7027m.

( Retd. Lt. Col. ) • President’s Medal for Pride of Performance • Tamgha-i-Basalat •

Pride of Performance of PMC

•

A practicing doctor and high altitude researcher

•

Celebrated mountaineer

•

He is the pioneer of Free Flying in Pakistan, a sail plane pilot and SCUBA diver

•

Being in adventure sports for over 35 years, he is still pursuing adventure sports very actively

our Heritage 70

By: Khuzaima Fatima Haque

Nature has a strange way of beckoning the human soul to itself. The serenity that lies in being with nature knows no bounds. Today, Lahore has had a change of heart. It is green all over.

From the weeping willows whispering to the waters of the grand canal situated right in the middle of the busy city, down to the flower buds springing in multitude all over the main road in Gulberg, Lahore has had a facelift like never before.

“After sixteen years of hard work and patience, anyone can see the sea change in the facial uplift of the city,� says a proud Mr.Shakeel, Director General Parks and Horticulture Society, Lahore. Created in 1998, the organization had had three simple aims to attain. One was to maintain and promote the greenery in the district and develop it further. The second

aim was to promote recreational and cultural activities through holding flower shows, canal melas and other such events and the third was to regulate outdoor advertisements.

Planning well in advance, the society prepares to the minutest of details for the upcoming spring season. Procurement of seeds is done well in advance in the months of July and August.

In fact, seeds for the winter season are also bought at this time and nurseries are prepared by the society itself. These nurseries then feed the parks all over Lahore round the year.

The plants prepared at these nurseries number in hundreds and thousands. The sowing starts by the end of August and beginning of September and continues till late March.

The result of these dedicated efforts by the society is a series of flowers shows that are held from time to time. Not only do these shows add beauty to the entire atmosphere of the city, but they also spread happiness among

71 our Heritage

City The Changing Shades of Lahore

the masses. They serve as constant reminders of the Creator’s blessings upon man. Thousands throng the flower shows. Both the young and old are fascinated by the beauty that nature offers. The varieties are numerous, many that have never been seen by the spectators who come from far just to get a glimpse of the flowers that last no longer than a couple of weeks. The art of decoration at these flower shows can also be witnessed at its best. Specially created entrances with flowers of over ten varieties that make exclusive designs is an art itself. Nature is at its best and so is the creativity of the gardeners and the organizers.

Pots full of flowers and evergreen creepers hand from the street light polls and walls specially built for the purpose. Driving along the old roads of the Mall road down to the Model Town area is now a visual treat for the locals.

This year in the last week of March the society held an exclusive rose show for the first time in its history. The spread was an impressive show of colour and species. The variety of colours was amazing and a spectacular sight for the visitors. People were seen clicking away at their cameras without a break. The show also served as a visual paradise for photographers.

side favourite since they are quite resilient to the extreme traffic on the roads in the city as well as the winds.

Additionally, “the variety of colours and their survival for a longer duration as compared to other varieties of flowers is the main reason that we use them on the roadsides of Lahore,” explains Mr shakeel.

Roadside beatification is another feature in the society’s cap.

Lahoreites seem so excited and satisfied by the addition of this visual extravagance and drive even in the heat with their eyes indulging in this luxury. Petunias have become a road

The Horticulture society is an extremely organised affair. “Lahore has been divided into seven horticulture zones and every zone

has a director and a dedicated staff assigned to it,” explains Mr.Shakeel.

Specially assigned water tankers, tractor trolleys and required man power make all the beatification possible. The director of each zone is responsible for every green spot that falls in the zone. All sorts of roadside plantations and beautification are the director’s job. However, it must be understood that this elaborate set-up has not always been there but has developed over the years and is the result of a concentrated effort on the art of the employees and the administration. The society was the brainchild of Mr Lashari and has been developed from scratch.

Interestingly, horticulture is a very visual job. The efforts can literally be seen by anyone walking the roads of Lahore. “We need to be vigilant day in and day out. The plants need constant care and maintenance and thus we have to be on our toes all the time,” adds Mr.Shakeel. The colour that has been added to the city of Lahore seems more like a matter of ownership by the society than a job that is paid for. The life that these flowers breathe into the city make it all the worth living.

our Heritage 72

Tourism Khanpur Lake

our Heritage 74

Pearl-Continental Lahore