MARCH 21 ïš» 26 W W W. B AS E LW O R L D . C O M
Editorial: Glam, Shine and Everything Else
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he dark season marking the cold months of late fall and early winter has morphed over the years into a festive season of sparkle and joy. From the candles of Hanukkah to the Christmas star, people’s need of light has made the motifs of shine and glam an integral part of the season. As humans, we’re made to have a need for aesthetics. Beauty is not a luxury, but a human need – the countless works of art created in harsh conditions are a clear proof of that. And so, in the light of so many happy holidays around winter, it came only natural for them to be decorated with ornaments that not just reflect the happiness of these important holidays, but also our striving for a way out of the unilluminated days. For many, the holidays season can be a harsh time, a period when the outer expectations of joy contrast with people’s inner emotions and state. The clash between the holidays inside and the holidays outside can represent a conflict to many. As Nick Hornby wrote in his book “About a Boy”, “it struck him that how you spent Christmas was a message to the world about where you were in life.” However, when analyzing the perpetual glam of the holidays coming out of the deep, cold night, there are two main things one can learn: that light can come out of darkness (especially if we make it) and that you can always be the source of someone else’s happiness. In dark times, one of the best things we can probably do is to allow ourselves to be guided by a star and to follow the hope of a sparkle down the road, which we can ignite and turn into a sun. The Attire Club Team
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InCompanytAttirehClub Released by FRAQUOH AND FRANCHOMME Chief Executive Officer Dan Dimitriu Creative Director Iosif Trif Write letters to the editor iosif.trif@attireclub.org Visit our website attireclub.org Contact & Advertising office@attireclub.org Address Theresiengasse 50 Top 1 1180 Vienna Austria Telephone 0097 150 12 801 73 Follow us Facebook: facebook.com/attireclub
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Winter Stars Photo: Attire Club
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Contents
Winter 2018-19
Editorial
Glam, Shine and Everything Else A light in the night. u3 In Their Own Words Professor and Author Frédéric Godart Trends, menswear and Fashion Week! u 10 Secrets of Fashion Just Brilliant: The Origins of “Diamonds are Forever” How a commercial slogan became a worldwide cultural reference. u 14 AC World From the Online Edition Check out our digital publication! u 19 Good Tidings The Best for the Year to Come Cars, jewelry and champagne. u 20 In Their Own Words Tamar Morali A beauty queen like no other. u 32
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Style Portfolio The Truth about T-Shirts Discover our very own style experiment! u 36 Travel & Culture L for Lapland The land of Santa Claus at a glance. u 42 Style Guide What are Neutral Colors? Must-have colors. u 46 Travel & Culture Shopping in Vienna: The Golden Quarter For those with a taste for luxury... u 48 Current Obsessions Starry Starry Night Beauty and glamour. u 54 Fashion & Culture Drawn Gents Do you remember these overly-stylish cartoon men? u 56 Insights Say What? Are you misusing these fashion terms? u 60
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In Their Own Words It-Boy Marco Ferri The Italian hitting the digital world one step at a time. u 62 Style Guide Watch Watching New watches at affordable prices. u 66 Fashion Ahead Jeans with Cell Phone Radiation Protection by Torland Swiss ingenuity. u 74 In Their Own Words Blogger Martin Ehmele Simplicity and style. u 76 The Attire Club Mood Diary Our Moodboard as a Visual Journal The best of court clothes from the 18th and 19th century. u 84 AC World The St. Moritz Snow Polo World Cup 2018 u 94 QR Code Glossary Discover the Brands Presented in this Issue Use your phone or tablet to discover the webpages featured in this issue. u 96
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YListen to a song with the cotents!
A look at our visit to the Alps.
InCompanytAttirehClub
The Smart Magazine Attire Club is offering a complete men’s style, fashion and lifestyle experience, centered around the AC website. To discover our universe and over 1000 articles that will offer you the tools to develop your style, as well as fashion inspiration and cultural insights and to interact with us and be part of our community, visit us online.
attireclub.org +See our QR Code Glossary at the end of the magazine
IN THEIR OWN WORDS
Professor and Author
Frédéric Godart
Frédéric Godart is an Associate Professor of Management & Human Resources at HEC in Paris. Before taking on this job, he was an Assistant Professor of Organisational Behaviour at INSEAD. His research looks into the inner workings of creative industries, mostly focusing on fashion and luxury, often discussing subjects such as design, modeling, watchmaking, footwear and more. He is known not just for his numerous articles which he published in academic journals, but also for his 2012 book “Unveiling Fashion: Business, Culture, and Identity in the Most Glamorous Industry”, which focuses on fashion as a social and cultural phenomenon and which truly makes for a great read. In this interview, he discusses the relation between menswear and womenswear today, trends and whether the concept of Fashion Week has become obsolete.
“I think we are witnessing today the end of an era” What do you think the fashion of today says about the world of today?
signers like Demna Gvasaglia or Marine Serre have achieved!
Frédéric Godart: I think we are witnessing today the end of an era that started about 30 years ago. The era was characterized by fast globalization and the professionalization of many practices in fashion, notably thanks to the emergence of luxury and fashion conglomerates. At the same time, many believed that fashion became repetitive and gimmicky, losing its creativity. This is of course a bit harsh, but the type of creativity observed in the last decades - hybrids, for example of different styles or cultures, was different from the creativity of the previous decades, characterized by the emergence of wild, new styles. Today we are back to a period of intense creativity and the emergence of new styles. Look at what de-
How do you comment on the relation between men’s fashion and women’s fashion today?
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FG: Since the early 19th century, fashion has become, at least in the West, the prerogative of women. A psychologist even called this phenomenon the “great renouncement” of men in fashion. Before that, it was men, aristocrats and bourgeois mostly, who were into fashion, a way for them to assert their power. However, recently, especially in the premium and luxury segments of the industry, menswear has become at least as important as womenswear. Gender-neutral and androgynous styles are growing, blurring gender boundaries.
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How do you envision the near future? What would you like to see change and what do you think will actually change? FG: The near future will certainly be dominated by artificial intelligence systems predicting fashion change and telling us how to dress smartly. What role will stylists play in this world? There will also be new fabrics that will revolutionize our lifestyles. A challenge remains how fashion, especially the fast kind, treats the environment. I hope we can deal successfully with this, but it will require that brands and customers work hand in hand.
faced major challenges since the emergence of the Internet. They used to be the only information hubs, and now have been displaced by blogs and the brands themselves. Similarly, they are still influential but need to share this with Instagram stars and the like. I think fashion publications can still play role as far as they are experts in styles. This is a unique value proposition to the public. What do you think will be the next big trends in fashion, especially in terms of concepts, sources of inspiration, etc.? FG: Unheard-of technological change is
“Unheard-of technological change is knocking at the door, and this will transform everything, including fashion� Do you think the concept of Fashion Weeks needs to change? FG: Fashion Week is a very important event for the whole industry. It is a way to get together, to celebrate creativity and beauty, and to do business while having fun. I also think customers love it. Some people criticize its cost, or think it is outdated. These are valid points, but they do not warrant the end of Fashion Week as it is. I hope we keep it. What is your take on the current state and future of fashion publications? FG: Fashion magazines and newspapers have 12
knocking at the door, and this will transform everything, including fashion. So far, fashion has addressed this timidly through cyberpunk stylistic references for example, but this is bigger than that. What will fashion mean in virtual/augmented reality worlds for example? This is exciting. Everyone will be able to change their appearance instantly. Another challenge will the relation to the environment, and how to save the planet: this will certainly capture the imagination of young designers, and customers. Thank you!
SECRETS OF FASHION
JUST BRILLIANT:
The Origins of “Diamonds are Forever” One of the most renowned slogans of the 20th century, which has grown way beyond its marketing purpose, “Diamonds are Forever” is one of the most known catchphrases of the world. This tagline is a strong part of the image diamonds have today in our collective mindset; where they are strongly connected not just with wealth, but also with devotion and love. However, despite its worldwide fame, not many people know the origins of this global phenomenon.
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iamonds are without question the hardest of all known gemstones. This is why, it comes only natural to associate them with durability and strength. However, how did diamonds also become a symbol of a strong connection between people and an indicator of strong commitment? The story goes back to 1938, when Harry Oppenheimer, who was the son of the founder of De Beers Consolidated Mines had a meeting with N.W. Ayer & Son, a prominent American advertising agency. The purpose of the meeting was of course to discuss the ways in which diamonds can be sold better and reach the desired customer. 14
Thus, soon after the meeting, N.W. Ayer started to do extensive research into what makes people tick and soon realized that emotion is actually the key to the heart of their customers. Later, the agency decided to link the material strength of diamonds with the idea of eternal dedication. To do this, they used jewelers, celebrities, magazines and even lecturers to express a connection between the physical and the emotional value of diamonds. Moreover, the agency even influenced movie scripts and managed to change entire scenes in order to have the characters want, buy or cherish diamonds. While at the beginning of the campaign, diamond sales were declining, after just three years, the trend was not only reversed, but diamond sales were up by over 50%.
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New York Times’ Advertising News and Notes column. The piece read “De Beers Consolidated Mines Ltd., owner of diamond workings in South Africa, plans a fall campaign in leading national magazines which will stress the engagement-ring tradition. Four-color ads will reproduce paintings by well-known artists and carry the slogan ‘a diamond is forever.’ N.W. Ayer & Sons, Inc., Philadelphia, is the agency.” And the rest is history. Today, 90% of Americans recognize this slogan and three quarters of American brides wear a diamond engagement ring, which now costs an average of $4 000.
While diamonds were everywhere, they still did not have one slogan to express their quality and their psychological appeal. Almost 10 years after the meeting between Oppenheimer and N.W. Ayer, in 1947, Frances Gerety, a copyrighter for the advertising agency, was working late one night and was in desperate need for a good copy. Tired and angry, she laid her head down on the desk and asked for help. Soon after, when she decided to finally go home, she scribbled the words “a diamond is forever” on a piece of paper. The ideas wasn’t new, as in Anita Loos’ 1925 book “Gentlemen Prefer Blondes”, we can read “So I really think that American gentlemen are the best after all, because kissing your hand may make you feel very very good but a diamond and sapphire bracelet lasts forever”, but it was a stroke of genius to use this phrase so condensed and so directly associated with diamonds. One year later, in August 1948, the company announced their newest campaign in the 16
Diamonds may not really be forever, after all they can be chopped and even turned to ashes, but the De Beers campaign managed to secure its place in the diamond industry for decades. The movies, the songs and the continuous use of the slogan are, well, the diamond of advertising: they create a mindset that is strongly associated with a strong product, which is placed so deeply in our global culture that it becomes a worldwide social phenomenon itself.
It’s All about Passion for Fashion
AttireClub.org
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AC WORLD
From the Online Edition
Attire Club is the ultimate resource for complete style guides, fashion inspiration and cultural insights that provide you with the tools you need for a continuous style development. Geared towards the sharp modern man, Attire Club offers practical “you can do it, here’s how” articles that will make you not only look better, but also feel better and more confident. With a groundbreaking new concept, AC is the essential online publication that brings out the best in who you are. 19
Good
Tidings The Best for the Year to Come!
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The passage of time is marked not just by calendars and time measurement instruments, but also by things. Objects – may they be clothes, cars, jewelry, books, art or anything else, tell stories. The items with which we surround ourselves are true witnesses of time. They are a reflection of what has changed (is something démodé?), of what will come (is it brand new and untouched?) and of what has endured. Sometimes, radical changes can be expressed through reinterpretations or works of art. Objects contain not just stories, but symbols, and, above all, messages. Each cultural product is laden with meaning, everything expresses something. The objects we have around us are the expression of a mental constellation of our interior beings. They are not just an expression of who we are, but of our relations: is something a gift? Is it something we bought or made for ourselves? Does it reflect a custom or tradition, which is the manifestation of a belief? Just as we always change, so do the things around us. Here are some amazing items that we’re looking at, as we look ahead this holiday season.
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Mulsanne W.O Limited Edition by Mulliner in front of the historic 8 Litre - a special car to celebrate company’s forthcoming historic milestone, as Bentley approaches centenary in 2019
The Art
of Giving
“Think of giving not as a duty but as a privilege.” Cufflinks by Chopard Cufflinks by Chopard, inspired by Dunlop tyres
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~ John D. Rockefeller Jr.
“Take, if you must, this little bag of dreams, Unloose the cord, and they will wrap you round.� ~William Butler Yeats 23
“Heat cannot be separated from fire, or beauty from the eternal.� ~Dante
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“Gracious acceptance is an art - an art which most never bother to cultivate. We think that we have to learn how to give, but we forget about accepting things, which can be much harder than giving... Accepting another person’s gift is allowing him to express his feelings for you.” ~ Alexander McCall Smith
The Art of Receiving
The Tropical Bird Repeater by Jaqet Droz
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Cufflinks and watch by Earnshaw
The Delight of
“Cheers to a new year and another chance for us to get it right.” 26
~ Oprah Winfrey
Beauty
“How long are you going to wait before you demand the best for yourself?� ~ Epictetus 27
“Philosophy does not promise to secure anything external for man, otherwise it would be admitting something that lies beyond its proper subject-matter. For as the material of the carpenter is wood, and that of statuary bronze, so the subject-matter of the art of living is each person’s own life.” 28
~ Epictetus
Rolls-Royce Phantom Extended Wheelbase, Whispered Muse
Perrier-JouĂŤt Belle Epoque 2008
The Gift of Joy
29 The Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti Scritto Ocean by Hublot
“There is no sweeter pleasure than to surprise a man by giving him more than he hopes for.� ~ Charles Baudelaire
Watch by Armand Nicolet
The
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Magic of Surprise
“We are happy when for everything inside us there is a corresponding something outside us.� ~William Butler Yeats 31
IN THEIR OWN WORDS
Beauty Queen
Tamar Morali
Tamar Morali took the media world by storm when she became the first Jewish woman to win the Miss Internet Choice in the Miss Germany contest. Her journey was a fast and unexpected one: in September 2017, she won a style competition in Austria and soon enough she received the impressive title. In this InCompany by Attire Club magazine, Tamar discusses her background, how she took part in the Miss Germany competition and what it means to be the first Jewish woman to take this title.
“Each of us has the potential to make this world a better place” What can you tell us about your background? Tamar Morali: Born in the small German city of Karlsruhe to Israeli parents, I moved to Vienna at the age of 8, where I spent my formative years. After graduating high school at the age of 17, I decided to do a gap year in Israel, to get to know the history, culture and roots of my country better. It was a hard decision to move to a country all by myself, especially at such a young age, but I have always been a person who goes out of her comfort zone and loves facing new challenges which have a strong impact on someone’s life and personality. I believe that today we have all the opportunities in the world to try out something new, to discover ourselves and to get to know ourselves a little bet32
ter every day. We just need to take little steps towards a completely new direction and have the courage and strength to believe in ourselves. After coming to Israel for a gap year program, I decided to remain in the country to pursue my studies at the IDC International School studying Communications and Business. One of the reasons I decided to pursue my studies in Israel was of course my love for the country but also that students from 86 countries from all over the world were studying there! It was like taking a world trip walking on campus every single day, which was amazing! How did your participation in the Vienna Fashion Week Look Style Awards happen? TM: I remember reading in
a magazine about a competition called Look Style Awards which was taking place during Vienna Fashion Week 2017. I always had a love for Fashion but in a sense that I loved expressing my own style and my uniqueness through clothes. I realized that if I could show people that having a personal style is different from the fashion and trends industry, I could send an important message. I was very nervous when I applied and I spent hours thinking about what to wear to portray myself in the best and the most honest and real way I could. When I applied, I got chosen with 50 other girls for the finale to walk on the runway during Fashion Week. That was my first time on the runway and suddenly I won first place in my category - Summer Looks. After that, I got to walk during Ber-
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Photo: Daniel and Uriel Pahima
Follow Tamar on IG at instagram.com/ moralifashion
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Photo: Daniel and Uriel Pahima
lin Fashion Week and Tel Aviv Fashion Week, which were great experiences! Can you tell the story of your participation in the Miss Germany contest? TM: During the Look Style Awards, I got to know many different people from the fashion industry. One of them suggested I applied for a beauty pageant, something I honestly never had thought about. My views on beauty pageants were mostly negative, I didn’t like the idea of judging women by their looks. But I told myself that I cannot judge anything without having tried it. So I applied to get a better understanding of this “beauty pageant world”. I was surprised that the Miss Germany pageant didn’t care about a person’s height and weight. To be honest, it was nothing as I thought it would be. I applied there to portray inner beauty, to show people how to love themselves as they are and that there is no such a thing as being “perfect”. Being perfect to me means loving yourself and accepting yourself as you are - which is sadly a challenge nowadays because people my age compare themselves to many famous bloggers and models. So I applied to Miss Germany during my studies in Israel in the category “Miss Internet”. To be qualified in the finale you had to win first place of Miss Internet. 5 000 people applied - a huge number. All of a sudden, it turned out that I was the first Jewish candidate who ever applied
for the title! I got to win the online voting and the crown of Miss Internet with 185 000 more votes than any other candidate! Does being the first Jewish woman to win the Miss Germany title mean something special to you? TM: Yes, indeed it is. When it turned out that I was the first Jewish candidate, my story got published on all the main news channels from around the world within only 48 hours! It was even mentioned in Arab countries and China. I’m so proud of because it is not something I expected. Knowing that people love the idea of staying true to yourself regardless of your look, your religion and color is something so special. Especially because along the journey, I got so much support from so many countries around the world and people telling me “thank you for presenting such an important message”. It became some sort of a mission of mine! What are your plans for the next year or so? TM: I have just graduated from university and since then I have been busy going to events, shootings, TV interviews and newspaper interviews. It is such a different life I get to live but I’m so grateful. Not long ago, I came back from Los Angeles where I met great movie producers who have heard about my story since it got
published in the Los Angeles Daily News and they told me I have great potential making it to Hollywood! I could see myself working in a field that includes interacting with people, presenting new ideas and thoughts I have. I care about people around me and having the opportunity to build a big platform, it means I get to share my story and beliefs with people. I always say “happiness and love are real only when shared”. Sharing with people means you only gain more not less. What are you currently obsessed with, fashion- and otherwise? TM: I love fashion as much as I love to dance, to smile and to be active and productive. I think no matter what you do in life, when you love what you do, you are doing the right thing. And sometimes it takes us a while to find out was we want and what truly makes us happy, but I always keep in mind that good things take time, that what comes fast and easy will be also gone very fast. I’ll continue being who I am, no matter which direction and step I decide to take in my life. I wish that everyone who has a dream will keep fighting and follow their dreams; because you never know what kind of impact you will make with it in the world. And each of us has the potential to make this world a better place. Thank you! 35
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STYLE PORTFOLIO
The Truth about
T-Shirts The 2018 Style Portfolio
Everybody loves cool t-shirts! The more interesting and personal a t-shirt is, the better you feel in it, as often, t-shirts act as straight up banners for our interests and passions. If you want to stand out from the crowd, a unique t-shirt is a great way to go. Photos: Attire Club Model: Tudor Gheracostea
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With this in mind, for our 2018 Style Portfolio we did a fashion experiment focusing on custom t-shirts. The t-shirts from our experiment feature colorful patches, prints and embroidery that add a lot of character and style to an otherwise simple piece. Some of them are outright branded items, having Attire Club written on them or featuring an embroidered logo. Others are more abstract, but nonetheless di-
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rect, the references to a fun and nautical setting being clear. The patches cover more or less space, thus offering something for every taste. It’s all about balance in the end, isn’t it? Sometimes, in fashion, you can use minimal means to make grand statements and that is what we focused on with our fashion experiment, “The Truth about T-Shirts”.
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TRAVEL & CULTURE
L for
LAPLAND
Known as Santa’s land, Lapland is a fascinating part of the world. The region stretches across multiple countries in the northern part of Europe and is a truly captivating space where people can enjoy fascinating experiences, from great food and sights to the stunning aurora borealis. Discover some fascinating facts about the arctic part of Europe! 42
AT ABISKO NATIONAL PARK in Swedish Lapland, there are prevailing winds which means that clouds barely ever form in that area. This creates crystal clear skies which, makes the region just right for viewing the Northern Lights.
The coat of arms of Swedish Lapland
DURING THE SUMMER MONTHS, Lapland has visible sunlight 24 hours of the day, even during the night. This phenomenon is known as the Midnight Sun. DURING THE WINTER SEASON, there are sometimes days of complete darkness when the sun remains below the horizon – this is known as the Polar Night.
SWEDISHLAPLAND (Svenska Lappland) is a historical province in the northern part of Sweden. The region was wider until 1809, when the eastern half was lost and became Finnish Lapland. This is why many people are often confused, not know-
ing exactly to which country Lapland belongs to, as there is more than one region with this name. TODAY, THE OVERALL REGION covers northern Finland, Norway, Sweden and even Russia’s Kola Peninsula.
YRead this article with a song!
Rovaniemi, the capital of Lapland (Finland), during wintertime. Photo: Gerald Zojer
LAPLAND IS THE HOME of some of the world’s most delicious and rare berries. Due to the several days of complete darkness during the winter period, the land has the ability to grow some quite interesting and tasty berries. You can find some common 43
Swedish Lapland
Lake Dabbsjön, Dorotea, Lappland, Sweden 1960s
drinking water almost anywhere you go.
berries like blueberries, cranberries and raspberries, but also some more unusual and obscure berries such as cloudberries, crowberries and lingo berries. BESIDES BERRIES, Lapland grows a large number of trees. One of the most common types of tree you can see here is the Snow Pine. These trees can live up to 300 years. Swedish Lapland is home to thousands of lakes, which means that there is clean
WHILE LAPLAND IS CONSIDERED A PART OF THE ARCTIC CIRCLE, during its snowiest and windiest times of the year, the temperature averages around -10°C / 14°F, which is not that cold; or at least not as cold as people image. This is considered quite mild, if you compare it to Norilsk in Russia, which can sometimes see temperatures below -50°C / -58°C F in the cold season. In the summer, temperatures in Lapland have been known to sometimes rise as high as 30°C / 86°F! THERE ARE LESS THAN 200 000 habitants living in the Finnish part of Lapland, which makes up only 3.6% of the country’s population. This makes Lapland one of the most sparsely-populated areas in Finland. Due to the small population of people and being a good climate, the amount of reindeer in Lapland can match that of people. Thus, reindeer are a part of everyday life. They are a form
Sami family at an Easter celebration. Photo: Mortsan
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Midnight sun at lake Luossajärvi, Kiruna, Lappland, Sweden ca. 1950
ASKING someone how many reindeer they have is considered impolite, in a way it’s like asking someone in Great Britain how much money they make.
‘KAAMOS’ is the Finnish word for Lapland’s mystical and impressive twilight season in December and January, when the sun barely breaks the horizon.
Reindeer, Jukkasjärvi, Sweden, ca. 1939
of transport, their meat is a superfood, and their skins give life-saving warmth in the cold.
THE SAMI people have existed in the Arctic region for thousands of years, and Lapland - called Sápmi in their own language - is their land. They are of the oldest indigenous peoples on earth and have an own language and a rich culture. Santa Claus’ Village in Rovaniemi, Finland
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STYLE GUIDE
What Are Neutral Colors?
Fashion experts, stylists and designers often talk about neutral colors when describing certain clothes. This term is used widely in shows, publications and even in forums.
However, many people are not clear about what a neutral color really is and why neutral colors are essential. To give you a short and clear answer, neutral colors are those colors that are not extremely eye-grabbing and can thus be mixed and matched to absolutely any other color. In the neutral colors category fall black, gray, beige, khaki, brown, navy, ivory, white, camel, tan and, according to some, dark shades of burgundy are also very versatile. These colors are very helpful because they are outfit savers when you don’t know exactly how to mix and match colors. For example, bright green might clash with something like red, pink or even with certain shades of blue, but with a neutral such as khaki or beige, it will be balanced out and the overall outfit will be coherent. Neutral colors also come in handy as balance items or backgrounds for prints and patterns. When you wear a print or a pattern, it can sometimes be tough to choose the colors with which it goes well. In this case, opting for black or dark blue can bring the outfit to completion. When it comes to prints and patterns, the rule is to find one of the colors featured in the print or pattern and to match it with that, or to use a color with which most or all of the colors 46
in the print or pattern go. This can be quite tricky, which is why this is a situation when neutrals come in handy. Neutrals are also good colors to wear when you don’t know what to wear – for example at a new job, or what message you wish to convey – for example on a date. This way, the colors you wear will leave your developing emotions and decision lead and you’ll be comfortable with the things you choose to do, not feeling like you have to “play a part”. All in all, neutrals are colors which are extremely important to have in your closet. They can complete any outfit, regardless of the dress code you need to maintain or of almost any other matter there could be.
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TRAVEL & CULTURE
Shopping in Vienna: The Golden Quarter
V
ienna is a typical Central European capital: from beautiful historic monuments and great restaurants to walking areas and shopping malls, you can always find something to do in the City of Dreams. The shopping scene is well represented, as the Austrian capital features many malls and shopping areas, where you can find a wide variety of fashion and accessories stores. The city also features one of the most exclusive shopping areas in the region. The Gold Quarter, Goldenes Quartier in German, is the city’s own luxury area. The district, now lo-
Photos: Attire Club cated in the city center, dates back to Roman times, when it was a legion outpost. Today, it is placed between Tuchlauben, Bognergasse and Am Hof and is an extension of the already famous and elegant Kohlmarkt, which connects two of the city’s must-sees: the Hofburg and the Graben.
here. From Prada, Brioni and Bottega Veneta to Emporio Armani, Saint Laurent and Gucci, all the major luxury labels have beautiful stores expecting their customers. This area is still quite new, as the expansion of the Kohl-
Anyone with an interest in fashion and a great sense of taste will enjoy the high-end flagship stores of international labels that can be found 49
markt was completed in 2014. But with it, Vienna is looking to join Paris or London as a go-to shopping destination, as every European city with a claim of finesse has a truly luxurious area where people can shop, chat and also discover some of the other jewels 50
of the city. The First District of Vienna, which is where the Golden Quarter is located, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Thus, besides the newest trends in terms of clothes, visitors can also see some of the pasts beauties: from the St. Stephens Cathedral, which is
the city’s most-known landmark, to the Hochholzerhof building (which dates back to the 13th century when it was called “Zum Langen Keller”) located in the Tuchlauben area. The Kohlmarkt, which is the epicenter of the Golden Quarter, is also one of Vien-
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na’s oldest streets. The name of the street translates to “The Coal Market” and the region has not always had a glamorous history, but it often attracted high-status businesses, as it was closely located to the Hofburg, the seat of power of the Holy Roman (and then later the Austrian) Empire. As the main road leading to the palace, many businesses catering to the court settled at this prestigious address – some of the older storefronts of today still talk about their former status as imperial suppliers. The expansion of an area where people can check out top boutiques draws many
tourists each year, especially from Asia, the Arab world and Eastern Europe, as many countries in the latter region don’t really have high-end shopping areas.
gether not just local designers to showcase their collections, but also guests from countries such as neighboring Slovakia, but also from Romania, Ukraine and Thailand.
Vienna is in many ways a fashion attraction for many: over the last decade, the city has also hosted its very own Fashion Week, which is still a rather small event compared to other similar endeavors, but which brings to-
Vienna is indeed what you expect: lots of schnitzels, lots of concerts and many galleries and museums, but it is also a great city for shopping from some of the greatest brands you can think of and can thus be considered a great shopping destination.
1 Special Focus: The Karl Lagerfeld Store
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or the ladies looking for a glamorous and vibrant experience, KARL LAGERFELD opened a stunning 85-square-metres/915 square-foot store in Vienna in 2017 that features women’s ready-to-wear, accessories and footwear collections, with a focus on bags. The clothes and accessories featured in the shop strike the perfect balance between youthful, chic, feminine and classic, for a look that’s effortless and easy. The store also carries the K/Signature range of handbags, which is inspired by Karl Lagerfeld’s handwritten signature. These styles have already been worn by models and “it girls” including Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid and Taylor Hill, in addition to numerous street style influencers and fashion bloggers worldwide. 52
LievArts.com
Four Seasons Art
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Current Obsessions Starry Starry Night
The Breguet Classique 5367
The Bergstern Harmony B048G227
The Schwarz Etienne Roma Power Reserve
The Hamilton Khaki Pilot 54 DD 42mm
The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 Aston Martin 01 Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special
The Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar
The Claude Bernard Classic Chronograph 10237
The Nautische Instrumente MĂźhle GlashĂźtte Teutonia II Weltzeit
The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date
The Tissot Alpine LTD
The Ateliers deMonaco Admiral Chronograph Flyback Prato
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The Albert Riele Premiere
The Aztorin Sport A070-G334
The Breitling Navitimer Chronograph 43
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FASHION AND CULTURE
DRAWN GENTS: A look at the most stylish male cartoon characters
Many of us enjoyed cartoons on television when we were young. Some of us even enjoy them very much as adults. For many kids, cartoon characters, given the fact that they are very narrow in terms of development (they only have a few traits, which, let’s admit it, unfortunately is not far from what grown-up movie and TV characters are) are very appealing and easy to understand. What is fascinating about these characters is that they are a good representation of the idea that one can tell a lot about a person only by looking at them. There is a lot we can learn from the best dressed cartoons characters sartorially speaking, even though they are just a result of a creative’s imagination and not real people. Here is our list of the most stylish male cartoon characters you can see on television: Tintin Belgian character Tintin is one of the most popular cartoon people of the 20th century. With an eye for layering clothes that go together well (a light blue sweater with a white shirt underneath, a neutral brown pair of pants and sometimes wearing an overcoat), this reporter knows that that layering is the best way to go when transitioning between many different environments. Tintin has a great European charm, which makes him a person with whom many people want to interact, which is crucial for a good reporter. Tintin understands that the way you dress lets others know how they should treat you, which is something we can all take from him.
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Br uce Wayn e Bruce Wayn e, the man b ehind the B mask, is a v atman ery elegant, sophisticate stylish guy. d and Wearing im peccably-tail suits, Bruce ored understands how import is to wear clo a nt it thes that fit you well and frame your that body right. If there’s so who understa m eone nds the time lessness of a it’s most defi su it, nitely Bruce Wayne.
en ces ey Prin version of m on, n s i D ini ized The mantic d, in our op sney o r a e ar an Di o m e n ) o u n g b oy s . princes w y e y n b s i y d D a re a l s o or y f ante e s h w l t e r ; d o g o in n e. (as see esent good m e and charm ir appearanc r v e a e p h r t h e y re re n o t o n l y b e a t c a re o f t m u s t b e s o m a e gr princes sh and take hich they liv i l w y ver y st way lands in sh places! ra styli The fa
Scrooge McDuck He might be a cheap Scotsman, but Scrooge McDuck is definitely not cheap when it comes to his clothes. The richer than rich Duck Tales character is always wearing high-end, comfortable and rich clothes that let others know who’s boss. Even when he is not all dressed up to the nines, Scrooge is fabulously dressed; as he knows that you should always be and look your best, in order to have a great outlook of the world and a positive attitude.
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Fred Jones The Mystery Incorporated member from the TV series Scooby-Doo is known for keeping his cool and remaining in control in the spookiest of situations. With a taste for a 1970s look, the driver of the My stery Machine shows everyone how you can turn a trend, or a style that was specific to a time, and make it timele ss. His tight white shirt, slig htly loose, yet fitted jeans, the attention he pays to details and his im peccable hairstyle qualify Freddy as a great car toon style icon. We love the fact that Fred is always weari ng a signature scarf, proof tha t he understands that wearing acc essories you like can let others know a lot about your perso nality, taste, and preferences .
Babar te a huge tas h it w g in k Ba b a r n elephant of a king, y th r Babar is a o w le d y s d re s s e keep his sty n a c e n level. Alwa o , but o d e l o f h ow d complex n a d is a great m te a c , sophisti gant. impeccable wn and ele o d d e n to , still subtle
Bill Badger Bill Badger from the British Rupert Bear series is a gentleman in the making. With an eye for style, this fancy young man represents those who are always looking to develop their own style and to express who they are by using classic attire. Hard to do, but definitely achievable.
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Conclusion It appears that sometimes we can learn a lot about how our clothes can have an impact on ourselves, our jobs and our relationships with others from the most unexpected places. Cartoon characters, even though they don’t seem very serious, can make for great style inspiration. It can even be said that cartoon characters give everyone a great lesson: “You are who you want to be. Look it!”
INSIGHTS
Say What? (An overview of the most misused fashion terms)
The fashion world is a universe that has its own vocabulary and language. There are many terms that are specific to fashion and style, there are many references known mostly by the insiders, but there are a lot of misconceptions as well. In fact, there are some terms that are used too often in the wrong manner. When fashion aficionados or even professionals use them in the wrong way, it can become an uncomfortable moment for someone who is in the know. Sometimes, even editors of blogs and magazines and even entrepreneurs misuse these terms. It seems that out of all these, there are three top terms that are used wrongly the most.
Haute Couture Many brands, designers and fashion houses label their collections or pieces as “haute couture”. During certain fashion events, one can often hear the buzz word “haute couture” going around, even as collections are presented on the microphone. This is entirely wrong and denotes a certain lack of professionalism or general knowledge. To clarify, just companies that meet certain standards and that are officially part of the Syndical Chamber for Haute Couture in Paris, which is regulated by the French Department of Industry, can call their designs haute couture. In the union are about 18 permanent members and occasional guests, and there is also a special category for jewelry and accessories. The most known haute couture labels are Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Givenchy, Christian Dior and Maison Martin Margiela for clothing and Chaumet, Dior, Boucheron, Chanel Joaillerie, Van Cleef & Arpels and others in the jewelry and accessories category. Haute couture clothes and accessories usually cost large sums of money: dresses can go over $150000 and jewelry can cost in the millions. They usually come with bodyguards and strict security rules. Therefore, next time someone showcases a $200 “haute couture” dress at an open event, you have the right to be suspicious about it. 60
Luxury Luxury is something that is highly unaffordable, despite a high demand. Therefore, every start up that calls its products “luxury”, despite the fact that they will make as many items as necessary depending on their demand is just misusing the term, sometimes unconsciously, but most times just as a marketing ploy. This should not mean that their products are not of good quality, they could very well be, but in this case they are at best “affordable luxury” or “premium goods”. One thing that needs to be stressed when it comes to luxury versus premium goods is that luxury is something that is not accessible despite a high demand, not because the owner decided to make just a few pieces. If a brand makes a series of 50 watches, but only 50 people want them, it’s not a case of “luxury”, it would be if they made 50 watches, but over 10000 people would be fighting for them, driving their prices up like crazy.
Prints, Patterns, Textures The last item on the list of misused fashion terms is occupied by the terms “print”, “pattern” and “texture”. To be clear, a print is a design that has been printed on a piece of cloth. It is best to use it when the design has a non-repetitive composition. A pattern is the same, just that the composition is repetitive and can be reproduced infinitely, with little or no loss of information. In other words, every pattern is a print, but not every print is a pattern. Textures are similar to patterns or prints, but they are different in the sense that they can be not just seen, but also felt. Trend forecaster Lidewij Edelkoort put it best when it comes to these terms saying: “We have seen, for example, in major magazines such as Vogue or Marie-Claire triumphant announcements rejoicing in the return of prints. Do your homework madam editors and stop talking about prints when what is meant is actually jacquard.”
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IN THEIR OWN WORDS
It-Boy
Marco Ferri
Marco Ferri is what we would call an all-round It-Boy: He’s a model, a social media influencer and a TV personality, having been featured in over 20 shows around the world. Currently, he has over 950000 followers on Instagram alone and is embarking on a new project on Italian television. In this InCompany by Attire Club interview, he discusses his favorite brands, his career and hobbies.
“My style is a combination between my own interpretation of fashion and an expression of my current feelings or just of my daily mood. ” What can you tell us about your background? Marco Ferri: I was born and raised in Italy. I graduated in marketing when I was 23 and from then I started traveling the world, working as a TV host, model and web influencer. I lived in London, Miami, Santiago de Chile, Madrid and currently I’m based in Milan, back in Italy. How did you become a model? MF: I wouldn’t define myself as a model. I’ve been working with fashion brands promoting them on my social platforms. Being a web influencer is much more an entrepreneurial job than being just a model. Promoting brands on my socials requires the choice of a good photographer (avail-
able in town), a nice location, an eye-catching look, posing skills and loads of good taste regarding the post-editing part. And I do it all myself. Do you have any favorite brands or designers you follow? MF: One of my favorite brands is Dsquared2 on the ready-to-wear side. I’m used to wearing bespoke suits and tailor-made shirts. I love Santoni and Louboutin concerning footwear. What is your personal approach to style? MF: My style is a combination between my own interpretation of fashion and an expression of 63
my current feelings or just of my daily mood. How did you enter the entertainment and TV field? MF: Pure accident. I used to date a girl that was pretty popular in Chile. An important local TV channel contacted me asking if I were up to try an experience in a reality show. Finally, I said yes and that was the start of a long journey in the entertainment field. What are you currently obsessed with, fashion- and otherwise? MF: Uff. I would say fashion, soccer, wakeboarding and new adventures in general. What projects are you working on now? What do you want to do in the future? MF: I’m currently working on a project concerning a cooking TV show which I will be hosting. I’ll keep you updated! Thank you!
Check out Marco’s website at marcoferrioficial.com 64
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STYLE GUIDE
Watch
Watching There are many new brands and watches in the online world today, which offer new and exciting styles at highly affordable prices. In this guide, we take a look at some of these watches and discuss the ways in which you can integrate them (or your own similar choices) in your everyday outfits.
Photos: Attire Club
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The Features of Your Watch as a Reflection of Your Personality
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atches are like people: They all fall into a few big categories (classic watches, minimal watches, dive watches, pilot watches, etc.), but their complications, technical specs and design go to show the diversity of the elements within these categories. This is why the watch you choose to wear is always a great reflection of your personality. The color, the shape, the material and the complications are all part of a story that speaks volumes about the wearer. Most of the time, that is. And this is what makes watchmaking great: the fact that sometimes you can find a watch that speaks very much about who you are is a great indicator of the fact that in one way or another, we can connect to each other even if we have not met. Surely, you can’t always find the exact watch 68
for you or if do find it, you can’t always afford it. Many people find themselves in the age-old “I have too expensive tastes” dilemma. And this is why there is such a wide and strong market of timepieces these days. Designers and manufacturers have realized that they can offer a wide variety of designs in various prices and even with slightly different designs; in the hope that this way, they will be able to satisfy most of their potential customers. Swedish brand BOOM Watches (photo) even went as far as to allow their customers to design their own watch, choosing from a variety of options that put in front of them. Thus, a BOOM watches customer can opt for their watch size, the type of dial they like, the top ring style, the case and the strap they prefer from the options available on the brand’s website. Not only one can design the look of the watch beforehand, but also one can buy more loose parts to change the design after the purchase, since the 4 parts this brand offers to its
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customers are interchangeable. This is definitely a great and unique process: being able to design a watch that you feel reflects your personality best, choosing from some options. BOOM Watches are also quite affordable and most resulting designs can be worn with a wide variety of outfits. This makes them not only great pieces to own, but also great gifts: designing a unique watch for someone lets them know how you see them and that you have put a lot of thought into what they like. Also, not to mention that gifting a watch is a great idea, as the wearer will think of you whenever they wear it on their wrist. If you would design your own watch, what would it look like? Connecting watch features to personality traits is not hard. This is why watches are probably such a sought-after accessory – they are distinct and clear, yet still subtle and elegant. A minimal watch describes a person who is clear and simple, a fantasy watch is the mark of someone who loves to explore his mind, sports watches are obviously a reflection of those who like dynamic activities (each with its own particularities) and so on. Each embellishment a watch has is also a great descriptor of a person: someone wearing a watch that has gold and diamonds floating inside is maybe aloof, someone who likes a watch with deep complications is someone looking for meaning in the world and someone who likes wearing a watch with vintage elements does it most likely to express their admiration for the values and views that shaped a certain place at a certain time. 70
Someone known for having many watches and switching between them could be signaling their opinion about their mood or the way they feel about a certain context or setting in which they are wearing the watch. The way in which you create your watch-clothes combination also speaks about your view of the moment. All in all, it can be said that a watch is one of the best ways to express yourself through style: timepieces, may they be smartwatches, vintage items or anything in between are indicators of personality, opinion and beyond.
How to Wear an Unconventional Watch
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any people who like to wear watches want to be sure that the watch they wear is a clear statement piece, which they often use as the central part of their look. It may seem odd to want to make an accessory the central part of an outfit, given that usually a shirt, jacket or pants are the core of a look, around which everything else is built. However, placing your watch as the main piece of your look is not a bad thing. You just need to know how to do it to make the outfit work.
ing cities like Paris, Basel or Liechtenstein. Their watches are a really great way to style up your look and can be a focus point of a good look.
Today, there are quite a number of brands that offer unconventional watches. For example, a recent concept that is quite noteworthy is Atto Verticale by Masera Design (photo). Their watches are eccentric and unique, as they are based on a balance between empty and full, hard spaces. They feature a mechanical hand wound movement assembled on an anodized aluminum case. Despite their unconventional approach to watch design, the Atto Verticale collection has managed to create timepieces that are sophisticated, sleek and elegant. Moreover, in between two sapphire crystals, the movement floats giving the watches an edgy, powerful and yet refined and stylish feel. The watches are available through their online shop worldwide and offline in many parts of the world, includ71
In fashion, a good outfit is one that is balanced, cohesive and coherent. These are the three main things you need to look out for when creating a look which includes an unconventional watch. Balance. A balanced look does not necessarily mean that everything needs to be put together in a very strict, precisely proportioned way; it simply means that you should make sure that everything has a role. Many times, people wear things that don’t really add anything to the look from both a practical and stylistic point of view. When talking about unconventional watches and the way to integrate them in your ensemble, you can think of making sure that there is room for your statement watch to “breathe”, namely that it won’t be overshadowed by another statement piece. For example, if you wear a watch with an unconventional design, don’t overdo it and also wear a shirt and a jacket with unconventional designs, it may be too much.
sistency of the outfit: the question you should be asking yourself is “does it make sense?” For example, an unconventional watch might work with a dressed-down suit, but only if it matches in terms of colors. A neon green watch won’t work with a gray suit, they are too different – they come from completely different stories. A clear interconnection between your watch and your outfit is what will make you stand out in a good way. In conclusion, it can be said that unconventional watches are great if you can properly integrate them in an outfit. You are most likely to be able to make them work in everyday, casual outfits and even with more formal pieces. Ultimately, both your clothes and your watch should be a representation of who you are and should express exactly the things you wish to communicate.
Cohesiveness. For an outfit to be cohesive, it has to have a story that goes through it. In other words, the pieces you wear should go with each other, even if you go for a high-and-low look, which is based on contrast. Make sure that the colors, lines and overall shape of your watch have a reflection in the rest of your look: go for similar lines, colors, etc. that complement it well, or for elements that are clearly in contrast – but be aware that it may take a few tries to get it right. The goal of putting an outfit together is to create a united whole, not to glue together items that may or may not be cool – each element of your outfit should be well-integrated and make good sense.
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Coherence. When we’re talking about a coherent outfit, we basically mean that the items that compose should “derive” from one another. Basically, if you wear a timepiece with an unconventional design, it should make sense and be organically integrated in your look. Indeed, an unconventional watch may work with a suit – although not always – but it surely doesn’t work with a black tie look. To achieve a coherent look, it’s essential to think of the con-
LievArts.com
Seeing Sounds
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Fashion Ahead Jeans with Cell Phone Radiation Protection by
Torland The jeans by Swiss label Torland, which have been launched in September 2018, not only have practical trouser pockets that provide storage space for a cell phone or other accessories, but also protect against harmful cell phone radiation through a special pocket fabric. Torland Fashion was founded last year by Sascha HĂźmbeli from Switzerland. He moved to Vienna, Austria, specially to get support from the Viennese fashion designer Karin Pfeifenberger, with whom he collaborated on the development of the brand.
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The special feature of the jeans is a cotton blend with metal fibers, which makes the protection against radiations possible and reduces the radiation on the body by 95%. From the outside you can not see this effect on the jeans.
For more information, you can visit torland-fashion.com
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In terms of style, the clean lines, organic cotton and quality workmanship, as well as the quality materials are the traits in which the brand takes pride.
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IN THEIR OWN WORDS
Blogger
Martin Ehmele
Martin Ehmele is a Vienna-based blogger who is passionate about fashion, interior design and botany. He has a simple, yet interesting style that draws the eye and makes you look twice, which is why we wanted to find out more about him and what makes him tick. Check out our interview below! Photos by Vincent Bennett
“For me, fashion has a lot to do with well-being� What is your definition of style? Martin Ehmele: My definition of style is that style expresses personality. I am inspired by men who, contrary to current trends, have their own style and wear what suits their bodies and their idea of fashion. Style should be authentic to the wearer - you should never look disguised. How would you describe your personal approach to fashion? ME: To me, fashion has always been an expression of my personality. And yet, I try to stay on the ground with my clothes and develop a timeless, classic style. For me, fashion has a lot to do with 76
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well-being. When I go out on the street, I want to attract attention, but not by wearing a costume. As soon as people approach me and ask me from where I’ve got the pants I’m wearing, fashion has achieved exactly what I expect from it.
panion, then I do not need a scarf. I’m not a fan of many accessories at all and like to wear dark clothes. Cashmere sweaters, corduroy jackets and straight trousers are currently my favorite pieces.
What are some of your favorite things to wear?
Who are some of your favorite designers and brands and why?
ME: I love perfectly fitting jeans in timeless blue, white sneakers are always great, plus a white t-shirt. Depending on the occasion, I like to wear my shirts one size bigger, there is nothing worse than too small clothes. In winter, turtleneck sweaters are my everyday com-
ME: I’m a fan of affordable fashion with quality that looks good long-term and delivers what it promises. Sandro Homme has a beautiful men’s collection. I like almost every collection by Tomas Maier for Bottega Veneta. The fit and cuts are incredible.
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Do you have hobbies or things you pursue in your free time? ME: In addition to fashion, botany is my passion. In my Viennese apartment, I have over 60 plants on 100 m2 (1076 sqf ). Of course, they need a lot of time and care. In addition to the fast pace and transience of fashion, plants are a beautiful counterpart. You need a lot of patience and you always have to live in the moment. They do not show you your mistakes immediately, but only with time. Someone who has a green thumb is usually a nice conversation partner, which I really like.
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ME: I love the Schönbrunn Palace and its botanical garden. For me, especially in the autumn, there is nothing better than walking through the zoo, watching the animals and I love the Palm House with its different plant rarities. Unfortunately, I’m absolutely no fan of Christmas markets, but if you love them, Vienna is the place to be, especially in winter. What is a country or city you would like to visit? Why? ME: To my shame, I have to admit that I’ve never been to the US. I would love to fly to New York and spend some time there. The city must have incredible energy and I believe that, especially in terms of fashion, New York is taking on a pioneering role worldwide. What are you currently obsessed with, fashion- and otherwise? ME: Right now I’m looking for the perfect cashmere sweater in terms of fashion. The winter in Vienna can be so cold, I’m sure, cashmere will certainly keep me superwarm. Unfortunately, it is so difficult to find fair cashmere pieces. If one of your readers has a tip for me, please contact me, haha. Otherwise, I’m currently trying to take some time for myself, get rid of the phone, be offline more often and live in the moment. 82
Discover Martin’s website at martinehmele.com
What are some of your favorite places to go to in Vienna?
“Trendbreaker”
is not a term that is used or talked about under other names, so a definition might come in handy. By “trendbreaker”, we mean a designer, brand, blog or any other type of influencer that goes against the current and manages to influence the fashion world. Of course, there are always niches and divergent perspectives in fashion, as in any other field, but the difference between niches and trendbreakers is that a trendbreaker manages to bring something new to the mainstream. Thus, a trendbreaker makes something that is connected to a niche or that is considered unconventional – conventional.
Your Style Is Worth Your While
The reason why these people
and brands are important is because they have the capacity to shape visions and change the current mindset. In many ways, it can be said that these disruptors are essential to the evolution of fashion. Otherwise, it will all become nothing but an echo chamber. And this is when things get boring. Unfortunately, this seems to be the natural way of things. After something unconventional and new becomes mainstream, it becomes regular and, in the end, overused and redundant. Take for example the concept of feminine or feminized clothes in men’s collections. Of course, in a world that saw nothing but suits and ties, dressing up a man in a feminized garment or downright a dress is provocative. It challenges the way we think of clothes,
AttireClub.org
THE ATTIRE CLUB MOOD DIARY 84
Our mood board as a visual journal
Court Details The royal heads of the world, as well as the people surrounding them in their magnificent courts have always been way ahead of the curve in terms of fashion and style. Court people were, at the peak of the monarchical period, the most fashion-forward people in the world. 85
Court suit, France, late 18th - early 19th century 86
Not only did the ladies receive all the best in terms of materials, precious stones and metals, but so did the men. Before the latest part of the 19th century, fashion and style were very much as man’s thing, at least just as much as a woman’s thing. Sometimes, there was more accent placed on what men wore than on what women wore. Just think of Louis XIV, who was in some ways a style pioneer! In many regards, men’s clothes are a tougher craft to master than women’s clothes. Even in our modern times, it’s harder to find a tailor who can make a good men’s suit than it is to find one who can make a dress. Not to disregard women’s fashion, but dresses and womenswear in general is easier due to its “flowey” nature and to the heavy use of draping, while menswear is more complex, as it requires many details to be just right in order for the clothes to fit and frame the body well. Moreover, back in regency days and at the height of the European monarchy in general, men’s royal clothes (like women’s garments) were adorned with a parade of outstanding details. Thus, looking back at the era between the 18th and 19th century, we can see an impres-
sive array of stunning buttons, exquisite embroidery and close-cut gold details. Think of the fact that they were made mostly by hand and you can’t be in pure awe over them. The “Art du Tailleur” book by Garsault, a famous French 18th century tailor details many of the skills one needs to create such powerful garments. In the end, the men of those times were true peacocks who wanted to showcase their taste and self-worth and as historian Aileen Ribeiro said, who explained that fashion is “the only art that relates so closely to the narrative of our lives, both as individuals and in relation to the wider world; for clothing is simultaneously intensely personal (a reflection of our self-image) and, as fashion, it is, in the words of Louis XIV, the «mirror of history»”. The costumes worn by court men during the 18th and 19th century were so powerful that, little by little, they shaped the way men dress today: the jackets transformed into today’s blazers, the cravats into ties and so on. And, as couture is making a (slight) come-back, who knows, maybe we will see a comeback of these extremely stylish garments as well. And so, maybe some better times will come too.
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Embroidered gentleman’s jacket and waistcoat, 18th century 88
Embroidery and button details of French waistcoat, 1765
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Gold embroidered epaulette - French officer’s uniform, c. 19th century 90
Detail embroidered on the front of a waistcoat, France, 1785-1795
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Detail of a men’s costume, 176592
Coat and vest detail, France, c. 18th century
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AC WORLD
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The St. Moritz Snow Polo World Cup 2018
he Snow Polo World Cup took place for the 34th time in the beautiful Swiss resort town of Sankt Moritz in January 2018. After a series of amazing games, the cup was won by Team Cartier, helmed by Rommy Gianni. The event was featured both in IC X AC and in the digital edition of our publication, at AttireClub.org. Photos: Attire Club
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SUBSCRIPTION
Subscribe to InCompany by Attire Club to make sure you receive your beautiful print copy of each edition. With a focus on quality and sophistication, InCompany by Attire Club magazine explores the fashion world in an original and creative manner. Featuring interviews with creative talents, style guides, stunning photography and carefully curated products and travel recommendations, the goal of the magazine is to present more than the typical fashion publication. Capturing a compelling image of the fashion world, the issue covers both the independent and mainstream areas of fashion and from the very ethnic and old-school to the latest high-tech innovations. Go to attireclub.tictail.com to buy the subscription for just $102 (about â‚Ź86) or just scan the QR code on the left.
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Discover the websites featured in this issue!
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Baselworld u baselworld.com Pages 2, 18
Briston Watches u briston-watches.com Page 59
Nordgreen u nordgreen.co.uk Page 13
Marco Ferri u marcoferrioficial.com Page 64
Tamar Morali u instagram.com/moralifashion Page 34
BOOM Watches u boomwatches.com Page 68
NOWA Watch u nowa.watch Page 47
Atto Verticale by Masera Design u attoverticale.com Page 71
Karl Lagerfeld u karl.com Page 52
Torland u torland-fashion.com Page 75
Liev Arts u lievarts.com Pages 53, 73
Martin Ehmele u martinehmele.com Page 82
Always Addressing Power Dressing
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IChAC
William Grant, The Skater, 1782